By the way, thanks everyone for all the insight. It's a bit crazy spending $5000+ on a projector WITHOUT ever seeing the projector. It's trusting all these helpful posts that allows me to do it. Thanks!

Screen will have to be personal preference at this point. The PJ having such good black and brightness most any screen would do.

Ahhh I re-tune the DVI input using straight DVI because for some reason I was able to get moving black bars that were missing before with the Video level. At least it's easier because I beat the color shift problem with the re-sync PC level. First I used the user area then tuned again with the Picture service menu.

I set things to what Greg is using in the review
Image TV/ gamma 1

My results are different from Gregs, result is good but I'd probably hv to go up to gamma 1 to get 2.2.

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79tvgamma1rgb.jpg

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79tvgamma1gamma.jpg

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79tvgamma1history.jpg

I used CF w/trichromat and viewing The Fifth Element Starfields are very open and face tones a strong colored but natural. The Cavern scene looks exceptional. I'd hate to mess around with it again. Any reason not to like a 2.55 gamma?

Here's a more definitive question: Jason helped me with the math. At 1000 lumen output as specified for the H79, the math is 30 foot lamberts /sf, quite bright. But he suggests that manufacturers oversell that lumen output, and I should use 500 lumens in my math, which would cut the fL to 15. He therefore suggests the 1.3 gain cinema Contour to get me to 20-21. My question is what real lumen output can I expect. Closer to the 1000 or closer to the 500?

guitarman

I think you should get your eye one calibrated! WSR got the deeper limey greens I thought. I know if I am not getting what the review mags get for primaries with the PR650 - it is time for a refurb/recal!

I don't see the difference without the option can you link same calibration w/wo again?

You still are popping Cyan whites at 100 IRE for more contrast?

ScottTA,

Those numbers were in the WSR review and recently quoted in the last few pages. That is about the right math as far as choosing the screen. Your target is 12ftL - but you want to double that to account for aged lamps (unless you intend to upgrade lamps, screens or projectors)

In low lamp mode, expect closer to 500 at the outset, especially once calibrated. Also, as the lamp ages, it will lose light output, so you want to plan your screen for that time accordingly.

If you already have the projector, one quick way to see what it will look like with the bulb "aged" a bit is to play a movie with the smoked acrylic lens cover on (assuming the '79 has the same lens cover as the '77). It acts like a poor man's neutral density filter.

Later,
Bill

Since I'm sitting around in this dark house with nothing much to do. Here's a few shots of the Fifth Element with Greg's start up settings. What do you think, real good, just awefull? :)

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79tv1element1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79tv1element2.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79tv1element3.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79tv1element4.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79tv1element5.jpg

Greetings,

Front projector newbie checking in here...

Just received my H79 from AVS. It was a pleasure dealing with Jason – I really appreciated his product knowledge and helpful thoughts. Buying an unseen PJ can be a little unnerving.

Also wanted to thank the many contributors on the AVS forum. Although most of the ISF talk is over my head, I’ve learned a ton on this forum and especially this one tread!

Now that my 61” Sony XBR has departed, I will be completely redoing my HT. First, will be painting the off-white ceiling flat black and the walls deep purple. Then, all the speakers and associated cables will be relocated to make room for the 110” StudioTek 130 that’s on order (also from Jason).

Having logged only a few hours of “bulb time”, I have been most impressed viewing DVD’s on the wall. It’s a whole different world! Can hardly wait to get that Stewart hanging and then break out the VE and Avia discs. Will also be adding HD satellite service in the near future.

Some observations thus far:

1) The remote control and lens shift dial slop don’t bother me at this point. (Once had a Fosgate 3A processor - now THERE was a flaky remote control!).

2) “Holy decibels, Batman - is that white box sitting there on the table making all that fan noise?!?!” From everything I’ve read, the H79 is supposed to be the quietest single-chip DLP PJ out there. At a show, someone was standing right next to a running H79 and “couldn’t even hear it”? Really? The fan noise on mine seems rather loud sitting on its tabletop location adjacent to the seating area. Sounds a lot like my tower PC (with 5 el cheapo internal fans). Standing up, I can easily hear the H79 from 10 feet away. I can even hear it 18 feet away through an open doorway in the adjoining room. And with the fan running on the “Brite” setting, the noise (to my ears) becomes very distracting. Of course, while viewing program material the fan noise is essentially masked by the speakers. But boy, am I glad I didn’t buy one of those “noisy” PJ’s! :)

By the way, I’ve stood and sat directly underneath an IF 7200 and an IF 7205 that were both ceiling mounted and I feel the H79 is very similar noise-wise. Maybe the sound of the fan in my H79 reflects off the table that it’s sitting on. :confused: Will do some more fiddling with location.

Regards

No Time You must have a problem with your unit. The H79 a friend of mine is real quiet sitting on his coffee table, both on low lamp and bright modes.
My H77 ceiling mounted I can not hear it at all. It is by far the quietest projector I have even had or demoed. Either you have bionic hearing or your units bad.

Thanks for your input, azjetski. Your comments support what everyone else has said about this PJ (and one of the reasons I got it).

Will see if it's possible to measure an actual SPL this evening. Will run this by Jason to see if he knows of another H79 / H77 in this neck of the woods that I might possibly be able to hear in operation.

Admittedly, on the "Bright Mode OFF" bulb setting, just about any program material does drown out the fan noise. But thinking ahead to the future when the bulb gets 1,500 hours on it and you're punching it up to "Bright Mode ON", I really can't envision sitting right next to it.

Thanks again.

("bionic hearing" -- love that!)

Originally posted by No Time
>>>The remote control dosen't bother me at this point.

Most folks had no big problem with the remote itself, although it can be sorta slow, that's no show stopper. It was the discrete codes it is missing that was the beef. Being able to change aspects with one keypress, or turn it off/on in concert with your other HT devices is what the factory remote is missing.

>>> By the way, I’ve stood and sat directly underneath an IF 7200 and an IF 7205 that were both ceiling mounted and I feel the H79 is very similar noise-wise. Maybe the sound of the fan in my H79 reflects off the table that it’s sitting on.

The H79 isn't even in the ballpark as a 7205 on sound. If you want a research project, go read the H77 thread. Deep in there you'll find where I made a similar observation as you, that the H77 wasn't as silent as folks said. That was until I heard the other PJ's with the 7205 being the loudest. Once I heard the other's I knew what everyone was raving about. The H77/79 WAS relatively very much quieter. If your's is really as loud as a 7205 then something's wrong with it, and it would be the first person to have ever had a reported sound related problem witha H7x here AFAIK.

There's only one PJ that is even close to this one that I've heard (or should I say not heard) and that's the Yamaha 1100/1200. And I didn't get to really test it out at home like I did the 7205. But in the store, it was indeed very quiet, too.

HTH, Scott

I really need to find one of these H79's to view. I have heard the video is as good or better than the 7205/7210. I watch a lot of SD material and from what I have read this is not one of the strong points for this projector. We do have some ambient light in day, but dont think it will be enough to bother the H79.

I saw a 7205 for first time and it was one of the first that my wife and I were really impressed by. No SDE at all, plenty bright, nice colors.

Im thinking of doing conversion of SD to ED or higher via a receiver through component switching. I dont want to spend lots of $$ on a scaler like the Iscan. Bad idea?

H79 = + low fan noise
+ have heard great picture (better than infocus models?)
- SD not as clean (pixelworks scaler weak?)

7205 = + good looking picture out of the box
+ lots of light in low power
+ Nice SD rendering
- Fan noise

I dont think I will be opting for the 7210, if I spend the extra $$ it will be toward the H79 for sure over the 7210.

Anyone have anything opinions to throw in ??

Anyone know anywhere in Las Vegas to see the H79?

Originally posted by starchild

>>Im thinking of doing conversion of SD to ED or higher via a receiver through component switching. Bad idea?

Not sure what you mean, but leave the scaling to the H79. It has a very decent scaler IMO for SD TV.

>H79 = + low fan noise
Yes
> + have heard great picture (better than infocus models?)
Depends on conditions. DIfferent, not better so much. Better blacks, not nearly as bright.
> - SD not as clean (pixelworks scaler weak?)
I think it's SD scaled to 720p was better personally. The other's were grainy compared to the H79 which was not grainy.

>7205 = + good looking picture out of the box
> + lots of light in low power
Yep
> + Nice SD rendering
> - Fan noise
Yep, lots of it.

> Anyone have anything opinions to throw in ??
A gazillion with a quick search fpr 7205 ahd H77 or H79. Here's one old thread, on the H77 but it's not much different thatn the H79, not as far as this thread goes anyway....
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=449687

I think it really depened on your tastes, and ambient light and screen size.

Lots of ambient, don't mind lighter blacks, like lots of brightness, have a big screen, don't mind more noise, get the 7205

Like it quiet, have more light control, screen no bigger than 110", want quiet, get the H79.

Colors are noce on both. The 7205 is like a giant plasma on stuff like sports. It's like a LCD on stuff like dark movies (elevated black).

I'd say out of the box the IF's are better calibrated grayscale, dunno if that's a big factor for you or not. I think the IF is a superior built unit, albeit in a business case. But It was too bright for me. One regualr here puts a filter on it to tame it, then oyu can pull it off when the bulb ages. I won't keep my H79 long enought o go through more than one (2 most) bulbs so that's not a big deal for me. The quiet factor is a biggie for me. I use a 110" firehawk.

HTH

Getgray thanks for your help. The 7205 in low power seemed to be bright enough for my tastes. i could handle a little less bright. I dont think I will have lots of ambient light. Its controlled and doesnt splash the screen directly. Some say the bulbs lose alot of output so get the brighter projector. Do they really lose that much output? I guess the H79 you could throw it into bright mode at half life if needed. How does fan noise relate for H79 in high vs. the low or high of 7205.

It's my opinion that high on the H79 is still much less than low on the 7205. All my references were to ceiling mounted units, mounted at about 7', 14' from the screen, 12-13' seating position.

If you are going to have any ambient, I HIGHLY recommend a Firehawk screen.

GetGray,

After using the remote control more, I can see what you and the other folks have said about the response sometimes being slow and seeming to not take a key hit. Having dedicated discrete commands for aspect ratio would certainly be a plus too. Will check into the RS-232 thing, even though the Power Buy is officially over.

Regarding the H-79’s fan noise, it is not really possible to accurately describe how loud it is. Attempting to measure it with my analog SPL meter proved fruitless; the sound is much less than 55 dB (I would hope!). Just to satisfy my own curiosity though, I think I’ll take my H-79 over to a friend’s HT and hold it up next to his ceiling-mounted IF 7200. That should give me a good relative comparison. And, of course, we’ll have 4 ears instead of 2. :D

Getting off the fan noise issue, the PQ is very, very good for SD on just a white wall. (With the wall lit up like a library, it certainly reinforces the need for lots of black / very dark paint.) I may drop some serious bucks and hang a white sheet, but then there might be wrinkles. Just kidding – I can wait a few more weeks for my 110" ST 130 to get here.

I will also upgrade my satellite system to HD. I can only imagine how awesome the H79 will then look.

Cheers!

Whoa, I've been looking at the five screenshots I did at the top of this page. Didn't realize how good they came out till I got to my store where I use a large CRT monitor.

As good as some of the shots I've done of various displays nothing comes close to this particular picture -
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/tosh57hx93element2.jpg

If this is why the CRT guys are always touting the dark side of CRT I can see what they mean. Digitals at least now are nice and close with their own advantages. If the CRT's weren't so cumbersome and I worry about the dimmer picture with having to use a small screen, well I might try one, naah! this little CRT is all I need. I'll save some headaches and use the 79 for the big screen.

Originally posted by No Time
Will check into the RS-232 thing, even though the Power Buy is officially over.

GetGray (aka Scott Horton) should be able to hook you up... ;) (and really should be a bit more explicit when "recommending" his AV-RS232 product...).

Originally posted by Ursa
GetGray (aka Scott Horton) should be able to hook you up... ;) (and really should be a bit more explicit when "recommending" his AV-RS232 product...). Sorry, don't mean to be misleading. I have pointed out in at least some posts I have a biased opinion, but I'll try to be careful and always point out I have same :). The PB date isn't set in stone, happy to continue to honor the discount until existing stock is gone. HTH, Scott

Edit: 'cause it came out the very wrong way on my original post;)

Originally posted by No Time
Will run this by Jason to see if he knows of another H79 / H77 in this neck of the woods that I might possibly be able to hear in operation.

No Time, not sure how far you are willing to drive but I live in Everett, WA about 20 min. North of Seattle. You list your location as SW WA so not sure exactly what that means. You are more than welcome to bring your H79 up to compare with mine. I currently sit right next to it with no noise problems at all. You could also check out some HD as I have a Motorola 6412 and JVC 30K DVHS deck. You can send me a PM if you're interested. You might also check with krasmuzik as he lists his location as Vancouver, WA which would probably be closer for you.

I'd be interested in doing an A/B comparison with yours to see what differences there may be in CR and pq between different stock units. Mine definitely throws a nice image but I often wonder if it's CR and black level are as good as other H79 units. I don't feel the blacks are as good as everybody seems to rave about but that's probably only because I've seen some extremely impressive high CR video over at DarinP2's house as I only live 10 min. from him. That has really spoiled me so a direct H79 comparison may help me to come back to reality. I'm sure mine is probably well within spec.

Brent

Originally posted by GetGray
Sorry, don't mean to be misleading. I have pointed out in at least some posts I have a biased opinion, but I'll try to be careful and always point out I have same :). The PB date isn't set in stone, happy to continue to honor the discount until existing stock is gone.

Scott - Just giving you some grief! :) It's a great little device and works well. However, you have used a few third-person pronouns here and there when describing it, if memory serves me correctly... ;)

Later,
Bill

Tom,

You caught me in time as I haven't gone into the service mode yet, but I have major reservations with what you have posted.

Originally posted by guitarman
Kei, pls don't enter the Gamma tables. Don't even try them at all. There's nothing there for anyone anyway. By just looking at them there will be an alteration of the User RGB menu's function. It won't work correctly anymore.

I don't quite understand what you mean by this, that just looking at the gamma settings will alter the RGB function. Are you saying this happens even if you make no changes? Are you stating this from experience?

But in the ADC area never hit the auto cals, just hitting the enter button on them sends the projector into and automated tuning procedure and will mess up the factory tunup.

Seems like a major oversight if it cannot be reset back to a default (which should be the actual factory tuneup). What is the unit referencing when it runs the auto cal, and what purpose would it serve?

The H79 in my possession is obvious not D65 (or 6500K) in any of its presets out of the box when compared to calibrated displays. What's more disconcerting is that the unit has no real lables for the temperature, using values 1, 2, and 3 which shows no correlations in the user manual. I don't know if this is intentional, but it seems like a major oversight. I'll try your settings and compare.

Color temp 2 is closet to 6500k.

Re gamma tables, trying a different gamma table will cause a malfuntion with DVI only. I don't think looking at them will cause the problem.

We're getting colorshifts by using the RGB adjustments which wasn't there before. A firmware fix is on the way for this. We stumbled on this problem after thirdkind I think couldn't get gamma 4 table to stick after a power down, then he noticed color shifts when tring to tune the RGB's. Same thing happened to me. Full factory reset wouldn't fix it.

Auto cal black and white would match up to your DVD players output. You would have a 7.5black IRE pattern on for auto black and a 100IRE pattern on for auto white. Auto-color shouldn't be used because we don't hv a correct Magenta pattern. Can't use Avia's Magenta it's not a match. So you see having no corresponding pattern going and sending the auto cal into funtion is a no no. :)

I have a Denon 3910 on the way and was wondering if ne1 else has one
and which connection provides the best pic. HDMI (via DVI adapter) or straight DVI cable?

Cheers,
--dave

Originally posted by hdefjunkie
I have a Denon 3910 on the way and was wondering if ne1 else has one
and which connection provides the best pic. HDMI (via DVI adapter) or straight DVI cable? I prefer the DVI to DVI straight to the PJ from my 3910. Depending on the cable length you might run into problems with a HDMI cable since I believe the signal is going to convert to DVI Digital RGB anyway when it leaves the 3910. And I don't know how well the smaller HDMI cable will do with the DVI signal it will ultimately be passing. I found some DVI cables worked and other didn't. Since the H79 dosen't have HDMI it can't handle any error correction (DVI has none). BUT, if a HDMI cable would work, it might have an advantage of being better in the long run since your next PJ will likely have HDMI. On the 3910, I don't know if there is any difference feeding it out the HDMI or not. Probably best to keep as few conversions going on as possible.

Well, Add me to the club!.....Just got my H79 today!......Now, I'm waiting for my new dedicated home theater room to be finished in a couple months.......oh the agony! Temporarily projecting onto my beige/tan living room wall.......picture already looks fabulous! (even more so than my recently-departed Sharp Z10K).....can't wait to see how it looks on my 110" Firehawk screen. (Question.....the H79 seems to have a DVI-I input in the back......is that compatible with DVI-D cables?)

Originally posted by PSB
(Question.....the H79 seems to have a DVI-I input in the back......is that compatible with DVI-D cables?) DVI-I is I for Integrated (analog + digital), DVI-D is for digital. The H79 actually uses DVI-D signals so yes the DVI-D cable will plug into the DVI-I port and work fine. HTH, Scott

Originally posted by GetGray
...The H79 actually uses DVI-D signals...
HTH, Scott

The H79 is compatible with both DVI digital RGB and analog signals, BTW. All you need is an adapter that goes from DVI-I to VGA 15-pin D-sub.

Couple of questions; would there be an easy way to hook both a PC and Cable HDTV box to the projector? does the 8 segment wheel rid the rainbow effect? I had an old PLUS that was awful so DLP scares me.

You could go all DVI and get a Gefen DVI switcher. Or go the cheap route and separate PC/HDTV-cable to component and digital. The high speed all color wheel will pretty much eliminate rainbows.

Originally posted by Metric
Couple of questions; would there be an easy way to hook both a PC and Cable HDTV box to the projector? does the 8 segment wheel rid the rainbow effect? I had an old PLUS that was awful so DLP scares me. I currently use DVI from my DVD player, and Component from my HD STB.

I like having a set of component cables going to the PJ anyway so I can play pretty much anything over them if I need to. There have been a lot of problems with DVI switchers, I dont' know if they ever got all the bugs out of them, so I was (am) leery of them.

My STB does have DVI though. Comcast says they have DVI disabled on their STB, and telling the lady I was watching it as we spoke didn't convince her. Even when I said it was the only cable connected. pfft. So I can't trust that it will stay on, so again, I'd be chicken to not have that component cable set as backup.

Same here component feed for Comcast, DVI for the Bravo D2 which has always been an excellent picture. You know the D-theater item is a worth while investment and another thing I run via component, my HK does the switching there. We watched I-Robot on D-theater last night the picture was awesome, even better than Comcast HD.

Plus I can record HD over Firewire and cheap on S-vhs tapes. It's a beautiful thing.

That's too bad - it must be a fluke, because mine has been completely trouble free, as I expect your replacement pj to be.

Originally posted by guitarman
Plus I can record HD over Firewire and cheap on S-vhs tapes. It's a beautiful thing. Which D-Theater box do you have Tom? I've got to get something to timeshift my HD material. Comcast screwed up in my favor and when they recently had to replace my STB, the brought a DVR instead. It's pterry spiffy, but It;ll cost me another 20-25/month to keep it. Trying to decide between that and the alternatives..

I got the Comcast 6208 going over to the JVC 40000. You need a 6 to 4 type Firewire cable and your all set. I've been recording on simple S-vhs tapes I've had around for years with no problems. There's two ways to make these tapes work. You either clip the recognition pin inside the deck or drill the recognition hole in the cassette. I did the plastic pin clip, got the tip from Keohi (Michael TLV). He's got pictures on how to.

I got some Deadwood's and American Idols and it's hard to tell the difference between the live record and the tape copy. nice

Sweet. The 6208 is the DVR right?

Originally posted by MichaelZ
I had just finished getting everything adjusted/calibrated on my H79 and it started exhibiting a problem when ran for over an hour or two :( I would get a purple flashing screen, looks like a bad acid trip. Called and Optoma will swap the unit for another but I have to send mine in first ($100+ shipping charge). I hope this new one is problem free. Also, I noticed my PJ had 70 hours on the lamp but 140 hours on the PJ - does Optoma burn-in the PJ's that long (70 hours)?

Why so expensive? UPS has .35cts per $100 insurance charge. That's $14 on $4k. I guess your going with next day air? I think if it's within the first 30days of ownership they would cover shipping both ways. When did you get the PJ?

6208 is the 80gig DVR, there's new one 6214 I think, it's got a 120gig drive. I got the 40k at Vann's.

I have to say the JVC is the coolest thing I've bought in a while. I'll pick up a few super D-theater movies. I-robot looked incredible, I got to get Galaxy Quest it's one of my favorite have fun movies. WSR loves the machine and they have excellent reports on the films.

Understandable I pay the extra for speed also.

I took a couple of shots of D-Theater with the JVC40k. Really nice resolution on this one. Also Did a re-tuning of HDTV w/inhd tune up, used TV gamma 1 to pick up the flatter gamma curve. Colors look very good and what I'm use to seeing when tuned to 6500k. D-Theater has a video essentials, one for 720p and one for 1080i. That's odd I figure HD is HD but I guess there's a difference. This tuning is 720p then, 720p analog.

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79dtheater1.jpg
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79dtheater2.jpg

No theater It must be tough. You could go to see Star Wars as a diversion. Lucky for me I hv a couple of budget projectors around for emergencies. Your H79 looks that good? :)

"BTW, I am smoking a Davidoff Millenimum and sipping Pyrat Cask 23 so I am slowly easying my pain"

Some good stuff, how about a little HC7 also (Havana Club Rum) for folks who don't know.
enjoy

Tom, all the posts in this thread are you man. She's fading away. Let her go (patting your back) Let her go.

I have my H79 for a couple of months now and I have watched a number of movies thru. a DVD connected by components. One thing I like the PJ is its contrast and sufficient brightness even on a 130" diagonal screen. With RGB, I was not able to change the hue settings and I always found that the skin tone is off, plus the color red seems a little over situated (not natural). I suppose a proper calibration by the professionals would take care of the problem. However, I am concern that an ISF calibration will make the image dimmer as I have seen that before. I wonder if any H79 owners share my thoughts. ALso, I don't know why RGB (components) input is selected by "RCA" on the remote.
Frank

Tuned to 6500k you'll still be at a high lumen count. Try TV/gamma 1 and lower the color saturation some. Or Film gamma 3 and tune the color saturation. I got a good basic tune up with Avia and a component DVD player. Blue flashing boxes matched up good.

What about the DVI input and a 720p player? You can get a clean 1.1 pixel match. Colors can look more natural also.

I am sure some of these questions may already be answered but here goes (79 pages of threads gets a bit daunting):

Is there a limit to the screen size I should use with the H79 (is 118" too much)?

What screen is a best mate for the H79 (is a Stewart Firehawk reasonable)?

How much ambient light will cause a problem (is enough light to sit with friends, watch a game, and drink a beer be an issue)?

How much brightness degradation can I expect over time as the lamp gets older and is this going to be a problem?

Thanks

Here's my opinions:

>Is there a limit to the screen size I should use with the H79 (is 118" too much)?
I think anything over 110" is pushing it.

>What screen is a best mate for the H79 (is a Stewart Firehawk reasonable)?
Firehawk

>How much ambient light will cause a problem (is enough light to sit with friends, watch a game, and drink a beer be an issue)?
Too subjective. With a 110" Firehawk, and lighting that does not in any way shine on the screen (i.e. no table lamps), you can have some. HD sports seem to be about the most forgiving thing you can watch with ambient however. You can have enough light to see by (properly placed), but the brighter the light is, the worse the pic will be, you have to decide. Personally, I thought I'd need alot more ambient light than I use now. I find, especially with sports, the screen itself is so bright, it becomes the ambient light source and is fine.

> How much brightness degradation can I expect over time as the lamp gets older and is this going to be a problem?
Depends on how much you use it. Count on about 30% reduction after 1000 hours woudl be my guess. But with the PJ relatively cheap, you can always get more bulbs.

HTH.

Anyone know who I should get to calibrate my h-79 in the D/FW texas area.
Tom, you ever down this way?

T-MAXX,

My brother in law lives in the D/FW area. You pay for the flight and the calibration and I'll crash at his place:)!!!

I am also down in that area occasionally for my "other job" visiting Rockwell-Collins, but I don't know when the next time will be.

I am sure some of these questions may already be answered but here goes (79 pages of threads gets a bit daunting):

Is there a limit to the screen size I should use with the H79 (is 118" too much)?

What screen is a best mate for the H79 (is a Stewart Firehawk reasonable)?

How much ambient light will cause a problem (is enough light to sit with friends, watch a game, and drink a beer be an issue)?

How much brightness degradation can I expect over time as the lamp gets older and is this going to be a problem?

Thanks

I personally haven't seen this pj, but the "Bible" of home theater (Widescreen Review magazine) states that this pj has significant brightness for screens up to 9 or 10 feet wide. It puts out over 700 lumens in high lamp and over 500 in low lamp. So I'd say your 118" screen would be just fine. However brightness is a personal preference and your tastes may be different.

Anyone know who I should get to calibrate my h-79 in the D/FW texas area.
Tom, you ever down this way?

Milori has a ISF locator link
http://www.milori.com/community/calibrator/

I have had this PJ for about 3 days now and tomorrow Cliff Plavin is coming over to calibrate it.

I do have a few questions of my own..

I read the Optoma list of issues and I think the one I have is metnioned in it. When watching cable or DSS it takes about 10-15 seconds to lock onto the picture. Yes, I have sourcelock on. While that is bad enough, whats worse is that any channel surfing causes the same delay. SO in essence, channel surfing is a no go because every time you go from CBS to NBC you have to wait 15 seconds before the picture locks in.

Is this normal? Is there a workaround to eliminate or reduce this issue?

I also noticed there is no focus grid internally. How do you guys get it focused properly? The graphics on the menu are not ideal for focus as there is a wide range of focus where the graphics still look sharp.

Finally, to turn off the PJ you need to do a double tap on the power button. I already got it into a macro for my pronto, but its a royal pain in the ass. Any way to directly or discretely turn it off without buying the RS-232 unit? Will that unit even solve the problem?

Thanks

I have had this PJ for about 3 days now and tomorrow Cliff Plavin is coming over to calibrate it. Tell Cliff I said Hello.I read the Optoma list of issues and I think the one I have is metnioned in it. When watching cable or DSS it takes about 10-15 seconds to lock onto the picture. Yes, I have sourcelock on. While that is bad enough, whats worse is that any channel surfing causes the same delay. SO in essence, channel surfing is a no go because every time you go from CBS to NBC you have to wait 15 seconds before the picture locks in. This is an issue, and is pretty much my biggest gripe to date. It is far inferior to it's competitiors. By far I mean 10+ seconds minimum EXTRA for every sync. +20 on a bad day, and sometimes no sysc at all (try again). Identical behavior on my H77 and H79, and on several different sources including component and DVI.Is this normal? Is there a workaround to eliminate or reduce this issue? Not normal IMO! Only workaround is to get the source to all be the same so the PJ dosent' have to resync. For example with a Comcast box you can make SD upscale at the STB to the same res as HD (i.e. 720p), then you can surf without the pain. Downside is you are using the STB scaler which is crap.Finally, to turn off the PJ you need to do a double tap on the power button. I already got it into a macro for my pronto, but its a royal pain in the ass. Any way to directly or discretely turn it off without buying the RS-232 unit? Will that unit even solve the problem? He asked so.... The AV-RS232 (http://www.av-rs232.com) solves that issue perfectly. One touch, one button and it's off. And it ONLY goes off if you press the OFF button, not the ON button and vice versa. Disclaimer: the AV-RS232 (http://www.av-rs232.com) is mine. But there are a whole lot of members that got one and I'm confident they can vouch for that statement. It also gives you one button aspect changes which are important to me. Somebody else who has one, chime in.

Best, Scott
Edit: Typos

You can make things a little quicker by setting a stb to 480p for SD.

Focus with the focus grid and nose up to the screen. If the pixels are sharp you're done.

If you want better discretes you'll have to buy the RS-232.

I bought the RS232 for my H79 and it indeed does fix most of the complaints I had with the Optoma remote and huge lag in button pushing speed. A highly recommened upgrade if you have the H77 or H79.

GetGray ---> I still have to hit the power button twice (in the macro) to get the projector to turn off. I assume the RS232 is working correctly, so is there a setting i haven't programmed into my macro, or is the macro the "single buton" you were referring to.

dD

"I have had this PJ for about 3 days now and tomorrow Cliff Plavin is coming over to calibrate it."

If Cliff enters into the service menu tell him Warning Not to enter into the gamma tables area.

If he finds the user area advanced RGB menu is in the way he could use the service "Picture" menu RGBs. The Picture option places a small RGB menu far up in the left corner of the screen, out of the way.

Let him note that for DVI when you press DVI you are getting a Video brightness level and pressing re-sync after first hitting DVI will get him to a PC brightness level. Which ever he may need I don't know.

The picture service menu option is a good one. If he's charging you by the hour. The user menu is dead center and will spike his anyalizing device being it's in the field of play.

Service entry.

Looking from the back of the projector to front, the four buttons in a line. He hits the left two and far right one at the same time. From there he can use the remote. To back out of the picture menu he'd use menu on the remote. There's and exit out Icon at the bottom of the list.

Let us know how the tune up goes?

Oh yeah, tell him that in the user Image area that TV and gamma 1 is a good place to start for a flat gamma curve. Tip per Greg Rodgers WSR.

I bought the RS232 for my H79 and it indeed does fix most of the complaints I had with the Optoma remote and huge lag in button pushing speed. A highly recommened upgrade if you have the H77 or H79.

GetGray ---> I still have to hit the power button twice (in the macro) to get the projector to turn off. I assume the RS232 is working correctly, so is there a setting i haven't programmed into my macro, or is the macro the "single buton" you were referring to.

dDNo, if you are having to hit it twice, you definately have something setup wrong. There is NO macro needed in any way. ONE button press does, it all at once. I've got a good guess at what is setup wrong, I'll PM you about it. S

Only one hit with my MX - 700 remote and the AV RS-232 to turn off mine too! One of the best things I've ever bought. I like trying different picture settings on H79 which is so much easier using the RS-232 and new remote!!!

Man, did the season final of Alias look great in HDTV on the H79 - just an outstanding experience.

Craig, we still hv a deal on the defunked D1 for a colorfacts calibration? If so shoot me a PM of the directions again, I lost the directions. Don't know when but every weekend I get the urge to hit Lake Tahoe. Craps tables keep calling me. :)
Put your phone number in there.

If you have a comcast PVR save INHD's HDTV tuneup.

Get Grey: All of my channels are being output at the same 480 signal and the PJ still doesnt lock onto the signal. Its as if when the signal chain breaks it needs to relock regardless of whether it senses the same 480 again or not.

Guitarman: You stated"Focus with the focus grid and nose up to the screen. If the pixels are sharp you're done."

What foucs grid are you talking about? Where is it located? Is it in the internal settings somewhere or are you talking about a grid pattern on soemthing like Avia?

Get Grey: All of my channels are being output at the same 480 signal and the PJ still doesnt lock onto the signal. Its as if when the signal chain breaks it needs to relock regardless of whether it senses the same 480 again or not.

Guitarman: You stated"Focus with the focus grid and nose up to the screen. If the pixels are sharp you're done."

What foucs grid are you talking about? Where is it located? Is it in the internal settings somewhere or are you talking about a grid pattern on soemthing like Avia?

Focus buttons on the remote bring up a small Focus grid in the center of the screen. I go up close to the screen and make the pixel lines sharp as can be.

guitarman: First off, that graphic is computer generated and not an actual grid. Secondly, it is a small icon in the center of the screen and doesnt allow for uniform focus anywhere but dead center.

How does that allow for focus in the corners for example?

The AV-RS232 (http://www.av-rs232.com) solves that issue perfectly. One touch, one button and it's off. And it ONLY goes off if you press the OFF button, not the ON button and vice versa. Disclaimer: the AV-RS232 (http://www.av-rs232.com) is mine. But there are a whole lot of members that got one and I'm confident they can vouch for that statement. It also gives you one button aspect changes which are important to me. Somebody else who has one, chime in.[/i]

Scott - Great disclaimer, and I will chime in on the AV-RS232. It should be unnecessary if Optoma would have shipped a good quality remote, but since they did not, it's a nice add to my H77.

Later,
Bill

The focus grid seems to work fine for me. An alternative if you have a DVDO iscan HD is to use that focus grid ( which covers the screen ). I haven't really found it works better though ( unless I'm really drunk on good wine )!

I'll email you Tom!!!

guitarman: First off, that graphic is computer generated and not an actual grid. Secondly, it is a small icon in the center of the screen and doesnt allow for uniform focus anywhere but dead center.

How does that allow for focus in the corners for example?

That's it, it's intended to make a clear focus. If things are focused in the center then the outer area's will also fall into place. Uniformity has been said to be great with the H79.

Tom you forgot to mention that is if it is squared up to begain with. :D

I just received my newly swapped unit from Optoma and it has a dead pixel :( So, I am waiting for the RMA fax to send it back, yet again, for another unit! This could get expensive at near $100 a pop. I noticed that this one had C18 firmware dated March 28 but the re-sync problem is still there.

Well at least they're not going to argue with you about 1 dead pixel. What re-sync problem? You mean the way it's set to go now, DVI plus re-sync = PC-brightness level? Last I heard the next firmware will have that function labeled in the user menu if you need it.

Sounds good on the hot swap. Yeah I remember Matt White looking better but Kras got me all worried about projectors dimming. Now I'm not worried about that anymore, especially since WSR's numbers confirmed that I'm not blind. :) (H79 = one bright puppy). Now maybe I need an ND3 filter to get down to reference 12fl.

Since I am about to take the plunge and buy this PJ, can someone fill me in on the picture lock issue?

Does this problem mean that I can expect the PJ to take 10-15sec to lock in and display a new image? Is that true when simply changing channels from a single source (cable or satellite), or does it happen only if switching between two different sources?

If it's when simply changing channels, I think this is going to be a deal breaker.

Monju it is even worse. It will occur not only when switching channels but also when switching between 2 different sources.

I can tell you though, a firmware revision "should" fix this and that is something we are all hoping for.

Seems like guitarman has a "friend" at Optoma as my "friend" at Optoma spoke to him a few days ago. Maybe between his connection and mine we can influence the company to do something. The software programmer is in NY for a week, then Taiwan and then back to California. When he gets back, he will be informed of our complaints directly.

Aside from that, I watched Aviator last night and the image was stunning. The PJ was dead quiet, much more so than my prefious Marantz S2 and once it locked on the DVD signal, I never thought about that issue again. Well, at least not until the movie ended and I wanted to watch some HD cable :)

Since I am about to take the plunge and buy this PJ, can someone fill me in on the picture lock issue?

Does this problem mean that I can expect the PJ to take 10-15sec to lock in and display a new image? Is that true when simply changing channels from a single source (cable or satellite), or does it happen only if switching between two different sources?

If it's when simply changing channels, I think this is going to be a deal breaker.I'm pretty picky which is probably evident from my posts, and this shouldn't be a deal breaker. It's an annoyance, but the pros of the PJ outweigh the cons IMO.

The resyncing (I presume that's what you mean by picture lock) only happens when you change input types. So it will happen if you change from:
SD to HD (480i to 720p)
HD 720p to 1080i
or from DVI to Component
etc.

So it my world it happens when I change from my DVD player to my Comcast STB. It will happen if you changed to a S-Video connection (e.g. to play a game device). It will only happen when channel surfing under these conditions:
1) you go from a HD (i.e. 1080i) channel to a SD (i.e. 480i) channel AND
2) you have your STB set to sent the native resolution of SD and HD.

I have mine set to always send 720p for all channels, so my H79 does not resync when changing channels at all. That has the disadvantage of using the STB's deinterlacer and scaler to go from 480i to 720p. And the STB scaler/deinterlacer isn't the best choice. But that's the tradeoff of not wanting the PJ to resync when channel surfing froma SD to a HD channel.

So, it only happens if you change sources, or resolutions with in a source.

That help?

GetGrey, you made an interesting point. I for example, have a Time Warner Box that is set to output whatever resolution that particular channel is brodcast in. Since just about every channel is broadcast in a different resolution (1080, 720, 480 etc) my PJ is ALWAYS synching and causing delays.

As you pointed out, you could output everything at 720 but, the internal scaler of a cable box is about a poor a scaler as you can find and certainly inferior to a plasma or outboard scaler or even the internal scaler on our PJ. So in essence, you are upconverting 480, downconverting 1080 and passing thru the 720. Bad solution but, it seems to be the only workaround.

One other problem with that scenario, for me anyway, is that I also have a plasma connected to the same cable box. So by solving the PJ problem I would be degrading the PQ on my plasma. Or I could just go into the settings everytime I turn on the tv (3x a day) and toggle between native and 720. NOT!

Or maybe Optoma should just address this issue internally and save us all a lot of time.

Or maybe Optoma should just address this issue internally and save us all a lot of time. I agree 100%. And if you search back in the H77 reviews and screenshots whopper of a thread, I'm sure I've been complaining about this for a LONG time. I have seen zero indication they have any intention of fixing this behavior. I've about concluded they can't.

Went and looked it up myself out of curiosity. Was back in Oct04 when it came up. Not as long ago as it seems, but still, 2 PJ's and 7 months ago:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4563956&&#post4563956
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4565202&&#post4565202
So maybe there's still hope.

In the meantime, I wonder how using an external scaler will affect all of this. If an external scaler (i.e. Dragonfly, DVDO, Lumagen) could take this array of inputs and always output to once resolution (720p), it would make one very attractive and be at least a workaround for the PJ. I wonder what the behavior would be on the PJ when the scaler is switching sources, that is, if the link between the PJ and the scaler would hold it's sync (not resync) while the scaler essentiall did the resyncing on the scaler input side. Anyone with a scaler know? The guy in the post above was having trouble with his DVDO, so that route dosent' look promising.

Cheers

In the meantime, I wonder how using an external scaler will affect all of this. If an external scaler (i.e. Dragonfly, DVDO, Lumagen) could take this array of inputs and always output to once resolution (720p), it would make one very attractive and be at least a workaround for the PJ. I wonder what the behavior would be on the PJ when the scaler is switching sources, that is, if the link between the PJ and the scaler would hold it's sync (not resync) while the scaler essentiall did the resyncing on the scaler input side. Anyone with a scaler know? The guy in the post above was having trouble with his DVDO, so that route dosent' look promising.


With my Lumagen set to 720p the only time the H79 has to sync up is when it is initially turned on. Of course the lumagen has to resync when switching resolutions, but that seems to take less than a second.

I have mine set to always send 720p for all channels, so my H79 does not resync when changing channels at all. That has the disadvantage of using the STB's deinterlacer and scaler to go from 480i to 720p. And the STB scaler/deinterlacer isn't the best choice. But that's the tradeoff of not wanting the PJ to resync when channel surfing froma SD to a HD channel.

I have my Comcast box set for 720p and everything looks great ( except SD tv which will always look inferior no matter what on a 92" wide screen ). No sync issues here, and HDTV looks outstanding!!

With my Lumagen set to 720p the only time the H79 has to sync up is when it is initially turned on. Of course the lumagen has to resync when switching resolutions, but that seems to take less than a second.
Cool. I need one of those then. Which one did you get?

Cool. I need one of those then. Which one did you get?

Just the regular HDP, not the Pro. Very impressed with it so far. I'm planning on SDI modding my RP91 this weekend, but even interlaced through component the picture is great.

Just the regular HDP, not the Pro. Very impressed with it so far. I'm planning on SDI modding my RP91 this weekend, but even interlaced through component the picture is great.Hmmm. You're my new Jones' (to keep up with). I'm thinking about doing the same thing. Thinking of selling my 3910 and have been looking for a RP82 or 91 to SDI Mod. Are you using Pixelworks board?

And I forgot to ask, are you feeding the H79 with DVI form the Lumagen?

Hmmm. You're my new Jones' (to keep up with). I'm thinking about doing the same thing. Thinking of selling my 3910 and have been looking for a RP82 or 91 to SDI Mod. Are you using Pixelworks board?

And I forgot to ask, are you feeding the H79 with DVI form the Lumagen?

I'm using the Pixel Magic Systems SDI board. Sources into the Lumagen are:

DVI from Motorola 6412
Component (soon SDI) from RP91
Composite from Tivo (which will be gone once I watch all the X-Files episodes on it)
Component from Playstation 2

DVI out from Lumagen into H79.

Scott switch that pany RP82 and make it the XP50 or XP30. The RP82 has a short lived death issue. Plus the XP's have the mosquito noise feature which might be helpful.

Scott switch that pany RP82 and make it the XP50 or XP30. The RP82 has a short lived death issue. Plus the XP's have the mosquito noise feature which might be helpful.Thanks Tom. I heard somewhere the XP50 didn't have something the RP82 did have. Maybe the mpeg decoder, I forget. But short life is a bad thing for sure. Thanks for the tip & suggestion. The more I study the less I know:eek:. Such is (my) life .

I still leave my Comcast box at 720p, 480i overide because 480i looks sharper with SD. Not that I watch allot of SD, Poker maybe that's it. I don't channel surf by advancing each channel I use the menu find what I want and enter the channel number. Things don't really bother me here.

We talked about super syncing for a while and I've mentioned it to them. No fix so I think it's just the nature of the electronics. Hey it gets to where you need to go, that's good enough for me.

XP's have the same Mpeg and Faroudja chip as the RP82. I have a Denon 1600 now which also has the same Mpeg/faroudja. But it doesn't have the Mosquito feature which I used with the XP50 & XP30, it was pretty effective at cleaning up video noise.

I think that feature would get bypassed with an SDI mod anyway. But I'll keep it in mind.

Scott switch that pany RP82 and make it the XP50 or XP30. The RP82 has a short lived death issue.
I haven't heard that. I have an RP82 and know multiple people with them, but haven't heard of anybody having any problems.

Does the mosquito noise reduction feature on the XPs work over SDI? The RP82 has some kind of noise reduction feature (I think it is called Re-Master), but I don't use it.

--Darin

Re-master is a sound feature. I think they called the RP82 thing green light of death or something like that. Quite a few mentioned the death problem. I'd imagine the Mosquito noise feature would work thru SDI. It's there in the on screen menu pull down.

Does the mosquito noise reduction feature on the XPs work over SDI? The RP82 has some kind of noise reduction feature (I think it is called Re-Master), but I don't use it.I wouldn't think it would. After all the whole point is to get the signal right off the mpeg encoder before anything else happens to it.

I wouldn't think it would. After all the whole point is to get the signal right off the mpeg encoder before anything else happens to it.

I'm sure it doesn't, no picture settings in a SDI modded player should have any effect.

I never read up on SDI, does it bypass the Faroudja chip also?

I never read up on SDI, does it bypass the Faroudja chip also?It bypasses everything except the mpeg decoder. The scaler and deinterlacer are bypassed. It sends the most unmodified signal possible straight out the SDI port in digital form. You take that and feed it into the scaler/deinterlacer of choice (i.e. DVDO, Lumagen, Dragonfly, etc.). Then from there at 1:1 to the projector so even the PJ dosen't do any scaling. It puts all of theimage processing (short of mpeg decoding) on the scaler box.

Ah so it's good for people with the Iscan HD. Might as well get the RP91. Pretty sure the RP91 pops up in google searches.

Ah so it's good for people with the Iscan HD -

You bet it is - The 5th Element SB has never looked better than with my SDI modded RP56 and the Iscan HD feeding my H79! The review in Widescreen Review said as much regarding the Iscan scaler anyway.

New H79 review on Projector Central - Evan likes it -

http://www.projectorcentral.com/optoma_h79.htm

Liked it, excitable boy he was. ;)

Who can blame him Tom! I feel the same way. Until HD dvd's of some sort come out, there's nothing left for me to do other than enjoy my set up. Tonite the neighbors get to see Team America for the first time - HA!

Evan's funny "Powerfull" "Image pops off the screen"

I have a feeling he's read this thread a little. His lumens readings are lower than reality but he's not using reference equipment, wanna bet?

-

You bet it is - The 5th Element SB has never looked better than with my SDI modded RP56 and the Iscan HD feeding my H79! The review in Widescreen Review said as much regarding the Iscan scaler anyway.

New H79 review on Projector Central - Evan likes it -

http://www.projectorcentral.com/optoma_h79.htm

It's interesting that the review from Projector Central that you posted a link to seems to disagree that the Iscan adds much in terms of PQ with this projector:

The H79's de-interlacing and scaling is top-notch. When compared to a quality progressive-scan DVD player, we saw no loss of quality when we switched the DVD player back to outputting an interlaced signal and let the H79 do the heavy lifting. Furthermore, the DVDO iScan HD video processor did not contribute any incremental image acuity compared to the H79's internal processing.

P.S. who's Evan? The review was by Bill Livolsi.

:confused:

that has got to be the highest rating review I think they have done that I have ever seen from Projector Central . Doesn't it make you proud to own a Optoma Guy's. ;)

Ok mabye he's got a croney helping out, still no reference lumen readings though.

Re de-interlacing. I still think deinterlacing of the projector is excellent. Visually I ran it thru the best tests I know. Testing watching video, video like end of chap12 of gladiator, Insurrection, Galaxy Quest intro. Looked great to me.

It's interesting that the review from Projector Central that you posted a link to seems to disagree that the Iscan adds much in terms of PQ with this projector

Which is all the more odd since that wasn't the case with Pro. Central review of the H77, and wasn't the case with the Widescreen Review article on the H79. Just more various " somewhat enlightened opinions "!!

Which is all the more odd since that wasn't the case with Pro. Central review of the H77, and wasn't the case with the Widescreen Review article on the H79. Just more various " somewhat enlightened opinions "!!

Exactly.

I know that Greg Rogers specifically recommended using either an upscaling DVD player or external scaler like the Iscan for scaling and deinterlacing vs. the projector.

Getting back to this resynching issue. Do many projectors have this issue when switching between different formats, or is this just a unique problem for the Optoma?

If others don't, that would suggest that this is a software issue that could be fixed.

Getting back to this resynching issue. Do many projectors have this issue when switching between different formats, or is this just a unique problem for the Optoma?

I don't know, but it could also be how people use their projectors. I tend to watch a movie on DVD, see whats on HDTV, then turn it off and go to bed. No resync issue at all for me. If you like to " channel surf " with a MSRP 10K projector between HDTV and SDTV, that's what regular tv's that don't have $400 bulbs are for.

I wonder how H79's brightness compare to H77. I went to Optoma's demo and the sales guy was trying to convince me that H77's brightness is better than H79, despite the published lumen numbers are higher for H79. Probably he was trying to sell me the H77. :p

The H79 is 10% brighter as far as I know, both the Projector Central and Widescreen Review articles indicate it is brighter too.

Exactly.

I know that Greg Rogers specifically recommended using either an upscaling DVD player or external scaler like the Iscan for scaling and deinterlacing vs. the projector.

It's nothing new that running DVI player for 1.1 is a good way to go. But SDTV over component gets deinterlaced more than well enough (for what it is) ;)

Running tuff video sequences played about the same with Faroudja or the projectors deinterlacing. I wouldn't say someone has to buy the Iscan HD ($1500). Greg just has the toy and notes it's looks good, but I'm not buying one. ;)

I wonder how H79's brightness compare to H77. I went to Optoma's demo and the sales guy was trying to convince me that H77's brightness is better than H79, despite the published lumen numbers are higher for H79. Probably he was trying to sell me the H77. :p


Not true several people tested this, could be he was using a older bulb or normal vs brightmode. Also a H77 upgraded to a H78 (also soon in the us) also gains the 10% in
light output so both the H77 and H79 will both be 1000ansi (spec).

Daniel.

If others don't, that would suggest that this is a software issue that could be fixed.I only have my personal first hand experience to go on, which is about as good as you can get. No guessing there. I personally tested these with the identical input sources, sitting on the same stand, in the same room with the same cables, etc.:

Marantz VP12S3
Infocus 7205
Sim2 300E
H77
H79

Each of them (not H7x) sync almost immediately (2-3 sec) with the same source changes mentioned (480i->720p->1080i, DVI->Component). They damn sure don't take 15-30 seconds. To quote a expert's statement about it to me "amazing they got the hard part [picture] right and missed the easy part [syncing]". It's an annoyance, but not a dealbreaker. Workarounds exist, and you may fall into the category that Craig is in where your source changing just isn't a factor. About the only place it really annoys me is channel surfing as I've described previously.

Software fixes aren't exactly pouring out of Optoma so I wouldn't have hopes for a quick fix (if ever). The only things I've seen them fix was the letterbox problem on the H77. Then an attempt at a panning fix that didn't cut it. Nada since. I know at least some of them read this thread, maybe they don't communicate internally. We know Tom's in contact with the Product Manager Wing. But no FW updates, yet. I've got my hopes up for attention to the "what to fix list":

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=522551

Syncing is #1

[QUOTE=GetGray]I only have my personal first hand experience to go on, which is about as good as you can get. No guessing there. I personally tested these with the identical input sources, sitting on the same stand, in the same room with the same cables, etc.:

Could you clarify something? I can set the output from, lets say my cable or satellite receiver, to 720p and channel surf without any delay. On the other hand if the cablebox is set to native output then there will be a delay in going from SD to HD or 720p to 1080i? Since I don't have HD right now, I am assuming that the HD receivers allow you to use these settings.

How much content is 1080i vs. 720p, and how much quality loss is there if the receiver does the scaling to 720p.

I know that Greg Rogers specifically recommended using either an upscaling DVD player or external scaler like the Iscan for scaling and deinterlacing vs. the projector.

My recommendation was based on the YPbPr color decoding, deinterlacing, and scaling of the H79. Each of these items are discussed with significant detail in my review.

Greg Rogers
AccuPel
Widescreen Review

[QUOTE=GetGray]I only have my personal first hand experience to go on, which is about as good as you can get. No guessing there. I personally tested these with the identical input sources, sitting on the same stand, in the same room with the same cables, etc.:

Could you clarify something? I can set the output from, lets say my cable or satellite receiver, to 720p and channel surf without any delay. On the other hand if the cablebox is set to native output then there will be a delay in going from SD to HD or 720p to 1080i? Since I don't have HD right now, I am assuming that the HD receivers allow you to use these settings.

How much content is 1080i vs. 720p, and how much quality loss is there if the receiver does the scaling to 720p.
I can only speak to Comcast's boxes... They use the motorola 62xx. That has a setting called 480i override. There is also a setting for the default HD output. I set mine to 720p default HD output, and 480i override. With those settings, everything that comes out of the Moto. box is 720p. I've seen no differnece using 720p (letting the 62xx downscale 1080i program material. It is still stunning. And no resync with those settings. HTH

What an interesting and fun thread this was. I just went back and re-read pages 5 to 15. Man we're nuts.

Ok sync timings, I got 7 secs switching from SD to HD and 12 secs going from HD to SD. I got 572lumens in Normal mode (seems my light meter is reference lol) 740lumens in bright mode.

In Normal mode white peak increased Fc's by 100 with one click and max white peak got me from 17.25fc to 22.30fc. I used a 92" wide 106" diag 1.0 mat white screen.

Also Gary with the same meter and his H77 got 389lumnes in normal and 510lumens in bright. No saying if his meter is as close as mine, maybe. Anyway gives you a ballpark measurment of the H77 vs the H79.

My recommendation was based on the YPbPr color decoding, deinterlacing, and scaling of the H79. Each of these items are discussed with significant detail in my review.

Greg Rogers
AccuPel
Widescreen Review


Yes they are. And an excellent review it is! Keep up the great work Greg.

Help me understand the projector central review. The review for most part reinforced what I have read here on this board. With the exception of the scaler/deinterlacing. the reviewer there says the scaling, deinterlacing is top notch and as good as the job a Iscan can do? I thought the scaling, deinterlacing of SD signals is the downside on this projector compared to other models such as the infocus 7210 w/ faroudja processing?

Can other comment on this scaling? I was liking this projector from the reviews but was not excited about the downside of the scalers ability and was considering if going with the h79 plus the cost of an Iscan was worth it. I have been flopping between the h79 and 7210.

--Quote: starchild yesterday 10.28PM--

Yes I would like to know the answer too.

Using anamorphic lens with H79 or H77

I am planning to upgrade my HT with an Optoma H79. I will be buying one in next few weeks. I wonder if anyone ever used an anamorphic lense with this projetor. Would you recommend it?

Panamorph is offering a deal: Panamorph P752 for just $495. It is liquid filled lens. Since I can afford it, I intend to use it with H79. Has anyone experimented this cheap anamorphic lens with H79? BTW, I will custom build a fixed 2.35 screen about 11.5 feet wide.

I have little doubt over liquid lenses - I cannot accept much aberration or out of focus situation.

PS: Someone may suggest to discuss this in anamorphic lense thread, but my question here specific to H79. Thanks

Guitarman and H79 Gang,

After reading the Pro Central Review, is this projector really that good? I have been watching the H79 story develop over the last several months in this H79 thread and the Pro Central review caps the whole thing off. Take a deep breath, sit back and lets us know as unbiased as you guys can be...... in 10 sentences or less. :)

Thanks

Buy one. :)

Gary.

Bigbluedude, prabhatb, starchild.

I beat myself to death over this same question. Not trusting all the subjective input here, I finally ordered ALL of the candidates (short of the Yamaha 1200) and tested them myself. I could have purchased whichever I wanted. I got the H79. That's as unbiased a recomendation as I can give. My objective opinion is it is the best single chip DLP available right now all things considered (with the possible exception of the much more expensive Yamaha - and I only point that out becasue I didn't personally test it).

starchild: The scaler is fine. It works better than the Marantz (s3), and the Infocus on SD material IMO. I do recommend an upscaling DVD player with DVI out. I have a Denon 3910, I also liked the pic from the Bravo D2.

What Gary said...buy it, you'll be happy with it. It's fine just as it is. And for the price, compared to the other options, you could buy some spiffy extras if you choose to do so and still save money and have an even better setup.

Want to see the nitpicking details of what's wrong, see my "what to do to fix it" thrad linked above. Very few items in that list would even apply to anyone but the most obsessive of us and are for the most part nit-picks. The list would have been longer and in some cases not nit-picks for the competing products.

Buy it, you'll like it.

Using anamorphic lens with H79 or H77I am planning to upgrade my HT with an Optoma H79. I will be buying one in next few weeks. I wonder if anyone ever used an anamorphic lense with this projetor. Would you recommend it?I have one on the way. I've got it schedlued to arrive next Sat. I'll let you know how it does after next weekend.

BigBlueDude: Can you please post a link to the pro review, I never read it and cant find anything.

Thanks

After reading the Pro Central Review, is this projector really that good? I have been watching the H79 story develop over the last several months in this H79 thread and the Pro Central review caps the whole thing off. Take a deep breath, sit back and lets us know as unbiased as you guys can be...... in 10 sentences or less.

The H79 completely cleared up my case of Upgrade-itis! It really is a good projector.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/optoma_h79.htm

Scott/GetGray conveyed all my thoughts on the H79. Here's a good one - name another projector that can pump out 775lumens at D65k and still do 3000.1 contrast, let alone show deep black with little or no noise dither.

Again scaling and deinterlacing is excellent for your 480i TV whether it's cable or Direct TV. Image will be sharp/smooth as it needs to be for TV. Most of the time you'll be viewing DVI DVD and HDTV anyway. I watched Gunsmoke this morning and it looked excellent but a waste of bulb time I must say.

Scott did you get a JVC D-vhs? I found out sound and video is recorded over the firewire cable. I copied the Edge and got excellent Dolby Pro Logic II surround sound, plus stunning picture quality. Even better I recoreded The Day After Tomorrow and it picked up Dolby Digital EX, sweet. Who needs to buy a ton of D-theater tapes. Concerts Movies all for $4 a tape and in HD.

GetGray:

Your review of the panamorph lens would be so cool, thanks and I am looking forward to see your observation.

Notanewbie:

You can read projectorcentral's review if you like, but I don't count much on projectorcentral's review. It is mostly a user review with no scientific tests. If I watch how a projector works, I can write an essay like them. Note that, last year they reviewed Optoma H77 and they discounted it, while the world knows how good the H77 is in it's class. It is still the best HD2+ DLP projector. But projectorcentral found it too dim and made an absurd comments on it's CR that it is tendency of the manufacture to overstate CR level but it may not be true. Huh? How can they miss the CR of an Optoma?

Now suddenly they lightened up and seems to correct their position by giving a positive review on H79. So I would not care what they say about H79!

Scott did you get a JVC D-vhs? I found out sound and video is recorded over the firewire cable. I copied the Edge and got excellent Dolby Pro Logic II surround sound, plus stunning picture quality. Even better I recoreded The Day After Tomorrow and it picked up Dolby Digital EX, sweet. Who needs to buy a ton of D-theater tapes. Concerts Movies all for $4 a tape and in HD.

What device are you using to record HD via Firewire with the JVC?

[url]Scott did you get a JVC D-vhs? I found out sound and video is recorded over the firewire cable. I copied the Edge and got excellent Dolby Pro Logic II surround sound, plus stunning picture quality. Even better I recoreded The Day After Tomorrow and it picked up Dolby Digital EX, sweet. Who needs to buy a ton of D-theater tapes. Concerts Movies all for $4 a tape and in HD.No. I haven't decided which wat to head with it yet. HTPC and record to HD, DVHS and record from Comcast, or just keep the PVR. I need something to timeshift, and something I can watch downloaded programs I miss. But I want to be able to watch Divx HD and there are only two players that can right now. I really don't want 2-3 recording solutions, as usual they all have pros and cons. Sitting tight right now. Leaning toward Buffalo media player, or IO data, with a ATSC PC card for recording OTA material (free). But a plain old VCR is still an attractive option that the wife could operate. I have a headache thinking about it :confused:

It's a shame becuase the JVC's are so cheap now. I played a VHS tape this morning The Seven Ups, even that looked good and the sound and video are upgraded thru component and optical.

Note that, last year they reviewed Optoma H77 and they discounted it, while the world knows how good the H77 is in it's class. It is still the best HD2+ DLP projector.
That is quite a statement, but not one that I think is shared by a very high percentage of those who have seen the majority of these. I know this is not the general feeling around here given the panning problems with the H77 and the competition of the Marantz S3, Yamaha DPX-1100, and Sharp 12k among HD2+ projectors.

--Darin

What device are you using to record HD via Firewire with the JVC?

A Comcast 6208 STB/PVR. The JVC has two Firewire links so I also send a cable from my TV's OTA receiver. I was confused about the sound since I have analog and the Firewire cables hooked up. I was told sound defaults to firewire and it's confirmed by the recording picking up Dolbly Digital.

That is quite a statement, but not one that I think is shared by a very high percentage of those who have seen the majority of these. I know this is not the general feeling around here given the panning problems with the H77 and the competition of the Marantz S3, Yamaha DPX-1100, and Sharp 12k among HD2+ projectors.

--Darin
I consider BenQ PE8700, Infocus 7205 or SharpVision XV-Z2000 are the class H77 belong to. Price is too a factor when you talking about competition.

My point is I cannot trust projectorcentral's comment on Optoma projectors.

H79 Gang,

Thanks for the confirmation!!! I am ready to sell some of my stock for the H79 and maybe my first born :). But nobody will take him becouse of his speeding tickets. I really appreciate the time you guys have spent in the forum. Above and beyond the call of duty!!

Somebody asked for the Projector Central review, here it is.

http://www.projectorcentral.com/optoma_h79.htm

Get er done.......

I am planning to upgrade my HT with an Optoma H79. I will be buying one in next few weeks. I wonder if anyone ever used an anamorphic lense with this projetor. Would you recommend it?

I used a Prismasonic H1000 lens with my H76 ( same throw etc as the H77 & H79 ) and it worked quite well. I decided I like the edgier look without it and I sold it. It worked far better than my past experiments with a Panamorph and my HT1000 projector!

Craig, thanks for the info. So you say you did not like the soft edge of the picture with this lens, do you think it can be managed with a bit of masking?

If expensive H1000 has this problem I wonder how bad the panamorph liquid lens would be.

By the way, does anyone know the avsforum classified link? It seems just disappeared.

I saw Craig's H76 with the lens and we both comented on the image looking softer vs having the lens off. The whole picture's softer.

Classifieds have been pulled, you hv to go direct to Audiogon.

A Comcast 6208 STB/PVR. The JVC has two Firewire links so I also send a cable from my TV's OTA receiver. I was confused about the sound since I have analog and the Firewire cables hooked up. I was told sound defaults to firewire and it's confirmed by the recording picking up Dolbly Digital.

Interesting. How many other cable boxes have firewire outputs that will allow recording of HD on the JVC?

Check over in the HD- recording Hardware area. I think Comcast isn't alone.

I just picked up Matrix Reloaded, The Big Chill & Blazing Saddles in HD. Ready to be recorded. It's like shooting fish in a barrel.

Thanks Tom.

Thanks for all the info thus far. I am getting closer to a decision. Im still bouncing this optoma against the infocus 7210.

One concern is how the optoma might be able to fight ambient light compared to the 7210. I am going to include a small pic of my room setup that will be converted soon. I will be removing the RPTV and putting up 2 shelving units on opposite sides and placing a 100 - 106" diag screen in between. The screen will be recessed between the two shelving units. I took this picture in afternoon when ambient light would be at its worst. I think having the screen somewhat recessed will help with the cabinet on the right blocking the light from the right of the pic. All my ambient light will be indirect light not shining directly on the screen.

Can anyone comment on my lighting conditions as far as how either of these would units might hold up in my room conditions? (excuse the terrible photo) :)

Although I can make my HT into a dark cave, I normally have ambient light entering the room on the weekends (watching sports). My H79 and Firehawk seem to work well together for this. And I'm only using the Low brightness setting. SJ

Starchild It looks pretty dark to me. :D
But if that is the worst it gets and the pic actually reflects how much ambient light there actually is then the H79 will be fine. Depending on what gain your screen choice you have in mind. For the H79 I would go 1.3 or slightly higher. If going with the 7210 I would go with a 1.0 or a gray screen to get some descent black levels or run it with a ND filter.

prabhatb, in my opinion all anamorphic lenses I've seen make the picture softer. Some call this the " film look ". I call it less sharp.

I know what you mean Craig. One thing the H79 produces such a sharp detailed image that you just don't want to lose it. I could see the peach fuzz on a Woman's face most destinqly. Some people may not like this kind of sharpness but is new to me so I enjoy it.

Thanks Craig and Tom,

I am in your league and would rather prefer the sharp picture over the softer one.

Prabhat

I tried to like anamorphic lenses, but the softness outweighed the increased resolution and light output ( if much after the lens takes a bit of the increase ) in my opinion. Buying a second electric screen in 2.35:1 aspect ratio ( and a brighter material than my grey 1.85:1 screen ), while just about twice what the Prismasonic lens cost, made a much much bigger difference picture wise even without the lens!

But for those that like anamorphic lenses, they do work with the H79 ( the H1000 from Prismasonic does anyway )!!

One concern is how the optoma might be able to fight ambient light compared to the 7210

The H79 is very bright. I have a light controlled room and find the picture to be more pleasing with an ND filter. It's pretty bright.

Have no doubt the H79 can still have contrast and not wash out when light is in the area. 572lumens tuned down to D65k in low lamp mode is hugh enough alright. I tried to capture what's happening with light in the room.

Lamp on 3' in front of the screen.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79light.jpg

Background area sunlight directly behind where the PJ's mounted.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/h79light1.jpg

Guitarman thanks for the photo. This type of photo I think will help others like myself. Photos of a non ideal environment helps as much as the pitch black theater environment. I noticed a little washout on the left side of the screen but it still holds a nice pic. Your photo seemed to hold up as well as the 7205 I saw in a room with light splashed directly on the screen.

If I order the H79 I will likely be doing it blindly mainly by your photos and others depictions of what they have seen. These optoma's are hard to track down in michigan. I saw a 7205 which is close to the 7210 and was pleased with its pic and ability to fight ambient light.

Im wondering if after 1000 hours are on the bulb if it still would be bright enough for ambient light. I will be using this projector for regular tv viewing so it will get more use maybe than the average user here. I want to stay away from the high lamp mode to get most life out of the bulb. And to keep the fan noise down.

If you need more brightness later you can remove the ND3 filter if you're using one, you can also opt for the high brightness mode. Most people are buying the H79 because they want to pick up the 3000.1 contrast, low fan sound and no dither effect. They view in dark rooms. The brightness is just a bonus for other applications.

How much brighter is the H79 than the H77? (roughly)

Scott

200 lumens is the difference.

If you need more brightness later you can remove the ND3 filter [..]

If you are talking about the filter Greg Rogers used, it was a 0.3 ND filter by Tiffen. Hoya designates as NDx, and the equivalent Hoya would be an ND2.

H79ians (Especially Tom and Craig)

I have another question - comparing HD2+ and DC3 chip. The advantages of DC3 are:
1) The pixel gaps are closer in DC3 - so you should see a higher perceived resolution or the screendoor effect is lesser.

2) In DC3 the tiny dot in the middle of the pixel (the hinge) is gone, you should get a smoother and brighter picture.

Can you tell us your experienece in comparing H79 to H77 with the points I mentioned above?

Thanks

I went straight from the HD2 ( H76 model ) to the DC3 H79 - the picture looks clearer and cleaner to me. Hey - you are close enough that if you offer Tom a real nice bottle of wine he might show you both the H77 and H79 to compare!!

Craig, you spoke my mind!! :D

The Optoma does well in the brightness department and in most types of enviroments, the Optoma should should do very well. The Infocus projectors are some of the brightest projectors out there. In some cases, for example when you have a very large screen, the lumens come in handy, however for most people the brightness and the contrast levels of the Optoma 79 are the way to go

I went straight from the HD2 ( H76 model ) to the DC3 H79 - the picture looks clearer and cleaner to me. Hey - you are close enough that if you offer Tom a real nice bottle of wine he might show you both the H77 and H79 to compare!!

I thought Tom had gotten rid of his H77, and was still playing in our thread merely to taunt us...

Maybe he did - I can't keep track of which FOUR projectors he currently has. I have enough trouble with my two!

H79ians (Especially Tom and Craig)

I have another question - comparing HD2+ and DC3 chip. The advantages of DC3 are:
1) The pixel gaps are closer in DC3 - so you should see a higher perceived resolution or the screendoor effect is lesser.

2) In DC3 the tiny dot in the middle of the pixel (the hinge) is gone, you should get a smoother and brighter picture.

Can you tell us your experienece in comparing H79 to H77 with the points I mentioned above?

Thanks


Re Dark Chip 3, now HD2+ had a dimple fix, Dark Chip 3 went one step better on the dimple fix, plus larger mirrors for less gap and light stray, additional black on the back of the mirrors also, and shorter pivets quicker speed, if I remember everything right. Major improvement for sure.

You could see my H79 but I'm a ways from San Mateo, house is right under Mount Diablo.

Heck prabhatb - take a trip to Optoma in Milpitas!!

Thanks Tom,

You are bit way out, unless I want to visit my friend in danville sometime and see if that makes sense..

Thanks Craig,
But I have been to Optoma demo - strangely this sales guy was demoing the bad side of H79 and trying to sell me a H77 instead. He was insisting H77 is way brighter than H79!! That's how I joined this forum to ask opinions..:)

Thanks Craig,
But I have been to Optoma demo - strangely this sales guy was demoing the bad side of H79 and trying to sell me a H77 instead. He was insisting H77 is way brighter than H79!!

What are they thinking over there?

Didn't you folks hear - the software guy ( not a team ) was only a contract fellow anyway and he is long gone. That is why they leveraged so much of the firmware from the H77 into the H79.

Ah, there is hope though. I hear they have an agreement with the shipping companies and will offer the guy a piece of the shipping pie if he will come back and muck up the code some more. Rumor is they need the revenue that will be generated from the shipping.

Whew, now it all makes more sense. :)

200 lumens is the difference.

Specs went from 900 to 1000 from H77 to H78/H79 or did someone really tested it and found a 200ansi difference ? (in what mode?).

Greetings,

Daniel.

PS: who will get his H78 back in a few days wooohoo ehmm sorry :)

re: just a joke: Don't laugh too hard, the first part could be true. Afer all they are getting the H77 "fix" from europe (if they ever do that is). And the H79 had the H77 firmware....

I think my H79 has C17, C18 on the H77 was more tweaks for the PAL signal on the H77 that is. PAL doesn't get the H79. You should be fine with C17, you don't see any problems do you?

The 200 lumens difference are from Gary's numbers vs WSR's numbers, H77 vs H79.

I would like a piece of the insurance action. In order to hot-swap with Optoma you have to fax them a copy of your original sales receipt so they know what amount to charge your CC (in case you don't cross-ship the bad PJ). If they just used their cost to charge you on the CC then it would be a LOT less insurance I would have to use on the shipping. Ouch!

I know you don't like UPS but their ins is just $3.50 per $1,000. What is Fed Ex charging?

I thought Optoma had a policy of free shipping when it's under 30days? If I remember right ok the first one was over 30days but what about the second one.

I must be lucky getting a good projector the first time ( maybe I got a special AVS hand picked unit from Jason )!

Watched Amelie again the other night with the wife. Fun movie, great picture!!

Boy you're just getting twisted one thing to the next. They shouldn't have hit the card, they shouldn't have had a ship charge from their end. Call a customer service person manager. I'd certainly be pissed if 6 or 7k were held up for my credit card.

Hey guys, check out this post over at the H77 thread and give me your opinions...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5709099&&#post5709099

Thanks for all the great posts on projectors. Well I am sold on an H79, and the question is; where is the best place to pick one up, at a reasonable price and with prospects of maintaining the manufacture’s full warranty. There are so many internet sites but how can I be assured they are authorized dealers and will honor Optoma’s warranty. Any input would be great appreciated.

Regards,
-jerry

AVS sell them I think. Give Jason a call.

Gary.

You can buy it right from here..... Give Jason a PM..

Thanks for all the great posts on projectors. Well I am sold on an H79, and the question is; where is the best place to pick one up, at a reasonable price and with prospects of maintaining the manufacture’s full warranty. There are so many internet sites but how can I be assured they are authorized dealers and will honor Optoma’s warranty. Any input would be great appreciated.

Regards,
-jerry

I know of 3 good places to get them:
a) here - Jason
b) Hometheaterdoc.com - Shane
b) integrityhometheater.com - John (I think they are/were running a sale)

Optoma doesn't restrict their sales so whereever you get it will likely be fine for warranty issues (within reason of course - i.e. not from back of car :)). But I'd recommend shopping with one of the three above..

Thanks again,

You guys are great! I like the idea of buying from a forum member.

Regards,
-jerry

You guys are great! I like the idea of buying from a forum member.Just a point of clarification, John (Profile here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?u=68073)) and Shane (Profile here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?u=7445908)) are forum members, Jason (profile here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/member.php?u=2104)) IS the forum :), that is, with the owners/AVS. Can't go wrong with any of them IMO.

Don't forget once you find your best price to see if Jason will match that price. AVS will have excellent service, give em a shot. Great choice on a killer projector. To think I paid $4250 for a NEC HT1000 back when, now the H79 is a little more money but the picture quality and brightness level are more than worth it. The H79 is the real deal just wait and see.
enjoy

Tom,

Thanks for the words of encouragement. Actually I was going to send you an e-mail to see if you would be willing to serve as a paid consultant to set up my projector, (I’m over in the city, SF) but I figure instead of bothering you, I would start with the AVIA Guide to Home Theater. I assume this will serve to get me started on calibration, or at least get me in over my head, then I will really come pleading for help….. :eek:

-jerry

Starting with Avia will be fine. If you have a comcast PVR you should copy the INHD tuenup patterns, pretty sure they're on early Tuesday mornings. Yes I could grayscale some different input signals but it's time consuming and couldn't be free do to the time and trouble. See how you do with Avia, before I bought colorfacts I was plenty happy with personal tuning the H79 OTB.

Using anamorphic lens with H79 or H77I am planning to upgrade my HT with an Optoma H79. I will be buying one in next few weeks. I wonder if anyone ever used an anamorphic lense with this projetor. Would you recommend it? I have one on the way. I've got it scheduled to arrive next Sat. I'll let you know how it does after next weekend.

Got my Panamorph P752 from the powerbuy last Friday. Installed it and have watched several movies. Here's my so far unscientific review:

Mechanical build quality; very nice. All metal, machined case nice hardware. Mounting, was easy. it comes with a rail mount to slide it in and out of the light path. It is more than large enough to handle the H79's beam with lots of room to spare. My PJ is mounted at about 17' screen is a 110" Firehawk (8'wide) 16x9.

Watching: I was hoping for more light output. I have not hooked up my Progressive lab's probe and measured it, but it's not visually a whole lot brighter. I looked at some test patterns, I saw no distortion that I can detect by eye on grid patterns, etc. Very relieved there. Image shift: I found that I needed to move the 2:35 image slightly lower (as was expected) that where it would have been without the lens. The H79's letterbox mode was used to stretch the material to the full panel height. The picture on both test patterns and especially real material showed absolutely no softening whatsoever. What it did do however is make the interpixel lines go 33% smaller (already small) and now almost non-existent with a DC3 chip. The focus popup vertical lines just almost faded into a solid line, almost. But they were still sharp as without the lens and no refocusing was required with lens on and off. I saw NO softening of the image. On the contrary, I found the pictures to be sharper, and more detailed probably due to the PJ using all 720 lines to produce the 2.35 image, instead of only 480 or so.

So, no disadvantages so far, but I was disappointed I didn't get the significant visible brightness increase I envisioned, but only a little (to my eye) instead.

Here's what I think makes it a keeper (so far)..... It’s all about the bars guys. Without the lens, and with my PJ calibrated properly, I thought my blacks were very black. An easy test is those bars, how dark are they, since after all, that’s the most demanding thing on the PJ when it comes to making black, make black (or more appropriately not make light) in large areas. I THOUGHT my letterbox bars were black..... UNTIL I moved the anamorphic lens into place, POW, no more lettterbox bars visible. With the lights out in my room, the difference in color between my black velvet frame and the letterbox area was almost indistingushible. VERY nice. I can leave the lens on, and turn the PJ into 1:1 mode (native). What you get is the black area created by no PJ light from the lens, the letterbox bars. And you also see the bars being created by the PJ in this setup. So you can see in a side by side comparison how much brighter the projected bars are vs. the bars created by the lens. HUGE difference. It easily looks like a 10-15 IRE difference in the 2. The projected bars are gray compared to the area that is now receiving no projection thanks to the lens.

I watched several dark movies. Harry Potter dark scenes, and all of Blade Trinity movie, very dark. Those dark movies were very nice to watch with the 2.35 bars almost gone. Nice.

Now I want an ISCOIII since it’s 100% glass (but the $$$, and the 2.35 screen, ouch), I’d have the beauty of these black bars AND some more light (than the liquid filled lens). I was impressed the H79’s scaler did the letterbox stretch just fine. Picture ought to be bad to the bone with a high end scaler and a SDI DVD.

Is it worth the powerbuy price? Considering what I paid for the PJ, initial impressions say yep.

Hope that helps. :D

Interesting review, especialy as I've just built an 8ft wide 2.35:1 screen so I can see how viable the constant height variable width is with my H78. I'm assuming the image quality of my pj will be a constant in much the same way yours has been, so that's comforting as I'm going to be trying out the Prismasonic H200 which will stretch the image sideways to make scope movies wider but keep 16:9 movies the same height..

I tried the letterbox stretch and that seemed to work just fine so overall it's looking quite promising. The only issues will be getting used to 16:9 movies being a foot smaller than they are right now - 6ft wide instead of 7ft wide, and the brightness differences between 16:9 and scope movies. There are a couple of ways of evening out the brightness if it's an issue though. I'm hoping the extra size of scope movies will make it all worth while though.

EDIT: I initialy thought the 752 was the horizontal stretch, not the vertical squish. Doh. :)

Gary.

I'm hoping the extra size of scope movies will make it all worth while though.

Gary - the extra size of a 2.35:1 movie is just the ticket - everyone was blown away last night watching XXX superbit on our 106" x 45.25" Dalite cinema vision screen with the H79!! My 1.85:1 screen is 92" wide - just right!!

Sounds sexy!!

That's the major difference with the H79 - more lumens!! That would certainly make the possible brightness problem a non-issue. :)

Not that kind of XXX movie - Vin Diesel!!

My old Dalite screen in front of a big window had no backing - you could see the picture outside on the back of the screen. I always wondered what would happen if I watched some porn - I'm sure the neighbors would " love " it!!

LOL - I did know what movie you meant, I just meant the size was sexy. :D

The see-through window sounds great for rear projection in the garden though - night time BBQ, beer and a movie. It doesn't get any better than that! :p

Gary.

I have a few questions about the H79 as I am getting closer to going with this unit.

Is there a remote function or discrete code so that the EcoMode (low lamp, high lamp) can be switched on and off via a single button press? or can EcoMode only be changed by going through the menus?

Does the H79 remember aspect ratio per input? For instance if I have DVD on component and HiDef on DVI, will the H79 remember 16x9 aspect for component and Native for DVI?

How much clearance do the exhaust vents need if the H79 is in an enclosure?

Thanks!

>>>Is there a remote function or discrete code so that the EcoMode (low lamp, high lamp) can be switched on and off via a single button press? or can EcoMode only be changed by going through the menus?

No, only via menu. No workaround avail at thsi time.

>>> Does the H79 remember aspect ratio per input? For instance if I have DVD on component and HiDef on DVI, will the H79 remember 16x9 aspect for component and Native for DVI?

No. But there is a workaround (not free) that provides one button aspect changes.

>>>How much clearance do the exhaust vents need if the H79 is in an enclosure?

Manual dosent' specify. It's not a high velocity output so a fairly tight space *might* be OK, however, you'd want to make sure no exhaust made it to the intake.

...... the question is; where is the best place to pick one up, at a reasonable price and with prospects of maintaining the manufacture’s full warranty.....
-jerry

Another strong recommendation for AVS. Right here at AVS is where I got mine. Jason was great to deal with as ever and you're assured of dealer support. The price might be a wee bit more than the lowest bottom-dwelling price you can find, but remember you are also giving a little back for the use of this wonderful forum. It's worth it for the peace of mind and forum.

Thanks for the recommendation! I also can say we have the best legit price on this unit. This is a custom installer unit and though many places are saying they can get it, if you call Optoma they may not cover it under warranty. Just be careful!

>>>Is there a remote function or discrete code so that the EcoMode (low lamp, high lamp) can be switched on and off via a single button press? or can EcoMode only be changed by going through the menus?

No, only via menu. No workaround avail at thsi time.

>>> Does the H79 remember aspect ratio per input? For instance if I have DVD on component and HiDef on DVI, will the H79 remember 16x9 aspect for component and Native for DVI?

No. But there is a workaround (not free) that provides one button aspect changes.

>>>How much clearance do the exhaust vents need if the H79 is in an enclosure?

Manual dosent' specify. It's not a high velocity output so a fairly tight space *might* be OK, however, you'd want to make sure no exhaust made it to the intake.

In doing some more looking around, you are referring to the AV-rs232 controller for the one-button aspect ratio changes, right?

Where is the exhaust port on the H79 and where is the intake?

Also, I noticed your thread on an H79 "fix wishlist"; any word on any of that becoming reality?

Another strong recommendation for AVS. Right here at AVS is where I got mine. Jason was great to deal with as ever and you're assured of dealer support. The price might be a wee bit more than the lowest bottom-dwelling price you can find, but remember you are also giving a little back for the use of this wonderful forum. It's worth it for the peace of mind and forum.

Wait a minute, Guy bought an H79? If so how do you think it compares to our HT1000's?

In doing some more looking around, you are referring to the AV-rs232 controller for the one-button aspect ratio changes, right?Yes.Where is the exhaust port on the H79 and where is the intake?Rightside up looking at it's rear, the exhaust is on the right side IIRC, intake on the bottom.Also, I noticed your thread on an H79 "fix wishlist"; any word on any of that becoming reality?Nope. None that I see. It'll be my luck they'll fix the discretes and nothing else :D:D(the AV-RS232 is mine). But other than the slow sync issue, nothing there gives me much heartburn. And I'm about to get a Scaler I believe which will render than issue moot, too.

Gotta keep in mind though even IF one gets the PJ, an RS232 controller, and a Scaler, they still have enough left over to put a dent in a screen compared to the Yamaha, Marantz, or Sim2. And end up with a nice external scaler to boot. And then the major issues (IMO) are mostly resolved.

In a nutshell, compared to the HT1000.....

1. Higher resolution and better fill factor means picture looks good even at 1.5 to 1.6 screen widths instead of 2 screen widths.

2. Higher light output allows use of 100 inch wide screen (1.3 gain) instead of 60 inches.

3. H79 firmware is relatively "buggy" compared to HT1000. Has tendency to get confused with some input changes and in some menus. Sometimes requires restart of projector for things to properly work again. Most annoying for me is the occasional misinterpretation on the DVI input to something with 3840 horizontal resolution. Once that happens the right portion of the image remains black no matter how many resyncs or input switches are done. Only turning off and restarting the projector restores use of the full DMD. The amount of DMD that goes black is the same as that which is to the right of the windowbox mode.

4. Slow recognizing and syncing to signals compared to the HT1000.

5. Image rendition is quite watchable without modification of the projector. Will know more after more bulb time has passed. Must be calibrated to look decent, though.

6. Even more silent operation than the HT1000.

All in all, it's a substantially better machine that illustrates what can be done now compared to just a few years ago. It's not perfect by any means, but quite good for the price. Just expect to have a few kinks.

GetGray(Scott),

What are you looking to gain from a scaler and what scaler are you getting?
I've been debating on getting a scaler myself for the H77.
Anybdy have any experience with a scaler and an H7X series projector and if so
what scaler is reccommended?
I'm only running HDTV through Dish 921 and a Denon 3910. Both through DVI.

Scott

3. H79 firmware is relatively "buggy" compared to HT1000. Has tendency to get confused with some input changes and in some menus. Sometimes requires restart of projector for things to properly work again. Most annoying for me is the occasional misinterpretation on the DVI input to something with 3840 horizontal resolution. Once that happens the right portion of the image remains black no matter how many resyncs or input switches are done. Only turning off and restarting the projector restores use of the full DMD. The amount of DMD that goes black is the same as that which is to the right of the windowbox mode.
You could try changing the keystoning to something other than zero and then back when this happens and see how that affects it.

--Darin

Thanks. I'll try that. Hated to power cycle the bulb when that happens.

What are you looking to gain from a scaler Three things.
1. Removal of any syncing being done by the PJ. Send it one signal via DVI at 720p. That's all it will ever get and it will be held "up" while the scaler changes sources, so there will be no resysncing by the PJ. I am told the scaler syncing is practically immediate.
2. Have input switching capability from all sources including DVI. Will allow me to have more than one DVI input without buying a DVI switcher.
3. Fringe benefit of presumably superior scaling overall for every input including HD. I will be able to send everything to the scaler in it's best format. Planning on trying a SDI modded DVD player (DIY on the way). Currently using a 3910 and I can't use it's audio capabilities (hearing problems) so it's overkill for me. Trying a 2900. Which will send unaltered digital signal to the scaler at 480iand what scaler are you getting? Probably a Lumagen. A dealer friend is going to let me borrow one to try.

Keep me posted please on any improvements!!!

Scott

You could try changing the keystoning to something other than zero and then back when this happens and see how that affects it.

--Darin

Darin,

That's exactly what I do whenever I see that issue and it works every time:). Now if they'd just fix the damned thing w/ FW:rolleyes:

My DVDO iScan HD solves most of those problems GetGray, and with the SDI modded RP56 DVD's look as good as they ever will!

Hey Craig,
I have the H77. Think it's worth the $$ to get the DVDO? Does it rescale 720p from a DISH or how would I get a better HD signal from the 921. If you want you can PM me. Thanks for your help!!!

Scott

Guy,

Will you be looking into any filter mods like the FL-Day with the HT1000?

Looking forward to hearing about any tweaks/mods you might decide to do. :)

Gary.

I've ordered an Optoma H79 so the following question might be moot - but am curious:

I saw Sharp 12000U, Sim2 Domino 20, and the Sony HS51 projectors today, all showing same HD Discovery channel (720p, I think) & all on the same FireHawk screens.
IMO, comparitively speaking, my impression was that the Domino 20 & Sony HS51 were OK, but in comparison, the images were immersed in 'fog'. The 3D vividness, image smoothness & clarity were superior with the Sharp 12K.

I dimly recal that I read somewhere that Optoma H79 might project as good, or better image, in some respects, than the Sharp 12K (or, many people would say that the comparitive image quality still is a matter of personal opinion?).

I ordered the Optoma H79, sight unseen, because this projector received very good reviews (e.g. ProjectorCentral review), AND I got what appears to be an 'irresistable' deal.

I feel that I don't quite need the high light ouput of the Infocus 7210 (have a 106" High Power screen & projector lens is to be approx. at mid screen, G =2.8).

I did get to see the InFocus 7210 at the recent 2005 NYC A/V Stereophile show and was very impressed, but didn't find a local dealer -- in addition, it seems that real-world price of H79 right now is less than Infocus 7210 (even if I found a nearby dealer, & prices are despite official MSRPs).

However, I wonder if more experienced people (such as on this forum) feel that that the newer Optoma H79 is in same league as last year's more expensive Sharp 12K ?
Just curious.

If the Optoma H79 presents as great an image (clarity, 3D vividness) as the stunning (IMO) Sharp 12K, I will be very pleased.

Bill13

Bill,
You WILL be happy. I have an H77 and the 79 is better. I've seen the Sharp and, while it's a great projector, for the $$ the Optoma can't be beat.

Scott

I've ordered an Optoma H79 so the following question might be moot - but am curious:

I saw Sharp 12000U, Sim2 Domino 20, and the Sony HS51 projectors today, all showing same HD Discovery channel (720p, I think) & all on the same FireHawk screens.
IMO, comparitively speaking, my impression was that the Domino 20 & Sony HS51 were OK, but in comparison, the images were immersed in 'fog'. The 3D vividness, image smoothness & clarity were superior with the Sharp 12K.

I dimly recal that I read somewhere that Optoma H79 might project as good, or better image, in some respects, than the Sharp 12K (or, many people would say that the comparitive image quality still is a matter of personal opinion?).

I ordered the Optoma H79, sight unseen, because this projector received very good reviews (e.g. ProjectorCentral review), AND I got what appears to be an 'irresistable' deal.

I feel that I don't quite need the high light ouput of the Infocus 7210 (have a 106" High Power screen & projector lens is to be approx. at mid screen, G =2.8).

I did get to see the InFocus 7210 at the recent 2005 NYC A/V Stereophile show and was very impressed, but didn't find a local dealer -- in addition, it seems that real-world price of H79 right now is less than Infocus 7210 (even if I found a nearby dealer, & prices are despite official MSRPs).

However, I wonder if more experienced people (such as on this forum) feel that that the newer Optoma H79 is in same league as last year's more expensive Sharp 12K ?
Just curious.

If the Optoma H79 presents as great an image (clarity, 3D vividness) as the stunning (IMO) Sharp 12K, I will be very pleased.

Bill13

Hey this is a simple thing, I've seen allot of projectors, the H79 is an amazing projector for the money. It has high contrast first, no dither deep blacks yet is bright as hell, it's a solid machine loaded with features, plus a very very nice color palate, THE best fan level sound you never heard. You're lucky you bought the thing, enjoy
:)

"quite good for the price"

Guy Kuo, great you did buy one. Yes I like the price too. :) Let's see if we can iron out some of the kinks.

Sometimes with HDTV I'll get a double sync image, but just hitting menu on the Comcast box will clear it up. No need to power off the STB or projector. Lmk anything and I'll forward it the the engineer Mgr?

I find choosing sync lock in the system menu is best. Use remote to direct que your signal inputs.

On my ceiling now I have two PJ's setup, first the H79, next in line the HT1000. When I switch I can really see the lumens power of the H79 amoung other things which I don't need to mention. Yes you can cosy up to the low screen door effect for sure.
enjoy your new toy. :)

But hey, we all love ya Guy. Where would we be all these years without the Excellent tool "Avia guide to home Theater" we owe you big time.

I've owned both the 12K and H79, and I'd say the H79 has a better balance of brightness and contrast. While the 12K has the best contrast with its iris fully engaged, it's not very bright. The H79 has good contrast and is about twice as bright as the 12K after calibration. It's also the quietest projector I've ever owned.

On the downside, the H79's user menu is a train wreck and its software needs work. One glaring oversight: you can't specify different aspect ratios for different inputs.

The 12K excels in its user menu, which offers the most extensive tweaks I've ever seen outside of a service menu. Actually, most service menus don't offer anywhere near the same level of control. It also has much more accurate colors after calibration due to its extensive color controls. That's not to say the H79's colors aren't pleasing, they're just not entirely accurate. Blues and reds have been very oversaturated on the multiple H79's I've had in my possession.

Either projector is a solid choice. I think you'll really enjoy the H79.

However, I wonder if more experienced people (such as on this forum) feel that that the newer Optoma H79 is in same league as last year's more expensive Sharp 12K ?
I've seen quite a bit of both (I have a Sharp 11k that is the Japanese version of the 12k) and I would say that they each have their advantages, but overall I would give the advantage to the H79 if the 48Hz mode is used for film DVDs (like with a Momitsu V880) and in situations where the high contrast mode of the 12k isn't useful.

--Darin

I know what you mean Darin. Like Super bowl Sunday next year. It will be a pleasure to watch on the H79, just like last year.

I'll feel like a thief, I'm taping all these excellent movies in HDTV with Dolbly Digital Sound on my newly acquired JVC 40k. I got an excellent copy of Fargo this morning on a $4 SVHS tape. It outta be illegal. :)

Very nice for the H79.

Tom,
Does your comcast box have "firewire" or is it possible to tape through DVI or component. I hav a Dish 921 and am interested in doing the same.

scott

You need a firewire connection to record HD. No standalone consumer device is capable of recording via DVI or HDMI at this point because the data rate of an uncompressed digital video stream is huge. Firewire merely records the MPEG2 stream as it comes from the provider, so the data rate is much more manageable.

There are professional JVC decks capable of recording HD via component video, but they can't record Dolby Digital, only stereo.

Scott, Comcast has Firewire out. The JVC has two Firewire inputs. My Tosh RPTV has a OTA tuner and it has Firewire out. Both Video and sound get recorded from the Firewire. What surprised me was my HK receiver registered Dolby Digital on many of the movies I copied. I thought you couldn't get DD ex but I was wrong.

In essence the copied movies easily beat out the DVD's I have. Seems like it should be illegal.

Plus there's another bonus, many times the HD movie will be changed from 2.35 to 1.85, bigger version

I've been reading this thread very carefully and I'm soon going to purchase the H79.

Can more people post the brand, model and gain of the screen they use with the H79, including light conditions and a subjective opinion of the results?

I'll be installing the H79 in a dark dedicated theatre room.

Thanks

I've been reading this thread very carefully and I'm soon going to purchase the H79.

Can more people post the brand, model and gain of the screen they use with the H79, including light conditions and a subjective opinion of the results?

I'll be installing the H79 in a dark dedicated theatre room.

Thanks

I second this request, but b/c my room is a little different. It will be fairly dark painted and have the ability to go completely dark, but there will lights on at times.

My room will be approximately 17 x 23, with the "movie area" in the front and a pool table in back. The pool table will have can lights firing straight down on it that will like be on during sporting events, etc. So I will have ambient light in the room, but nothing that directly hits the screen. I'd be interested if anyone has similar viewing issues with their H79 and what screen they are using.

Can more people post the brand, model and gain of the screen they use with the H79, including light conditions and a subjective opinion of the results?

I'm running mine on two different tensioned DaLite Cosmopolitan Electrol electric screens. For HDTV and 1.85:1 movies I am using a 92" wide DaLite High Contrast Cinema Vision screen - good ambient light rejection for sports, doesn't appear to hot spot, virtually no viewing cone. And talk about blacks looking black with the H79!!

For 2.35:1 movies, I raise that screen up and drop my DaLite custom sized 106" x 45.25" Cinema Vision screen - you're watching these types of movies in the dark anyway, to the little extra punch of the white screen makes up for the increased size over the 92" screen. It was only possible to use 2 screens because of the H79 having power zoom and focus.

By the way - the guys here at AVS can get you a screen at as good a price as anyone else, and with better customer service!

I have a 110" Carada Brilliant White in a 100% light controlled room. The picture is fantastic. Black levels are great. I'm using a ND.3 filter (most of the time) but expect to have it off after 1000-1500 hours or so as the lamp ages. I'm at a viewing distance of approximately 17' but have watched from as close as 10' with no problems. I've masked the 2.35:1 image which really brings out the subjective contrast level.

I have a 110" Carada Brilliant White in a 100% light controlled room. The picture is fantastic. Black levels are great. I'm using a ND.3 filter (most of the time) but expect to have it off after 1000-1500 hours or so as the lamp ages. I'm at a viewing distance of approximately 17' but have watched from as close as 10' with no problems. I've masked the 2.35:1 image which really brings out the subjective contrast level.
If you take the filter on and off at your leisure then it does give you an advantage. But if you don't care a lot about doing that and are using it only so you can switch it once as the lamp ages, this does not work to counteract the 50% bulb dimming issue as I have explained elsewhere (the math supports this) and in that case you might want to see about getting the Carada High Contrast Gray material for your screen as it would likely help your ANSI CR and CR if you have any external ambient light compared to having that 2X ND filter on there. Even if you never put the BW material back it would work, but especially well in your case given that you could put the BW material back at the point you were planning on taking the filter off for good (if you are okay with losing the ability to take the filter on and off on a frequent basis).

--Darin

Darin,
I've used the CCW material without the filter. It was a bit brighter than the filter+BW material. To be honest, black levels, and shadow details appear great to me (depending on source material of course) with and without filter. One of the reasons I use the filter is to reduce my sensitivity to rainbows. Unfortunately, when the images are very bright on the H79 I do see a few (although very few). I also feel less fatigued with the reduced brightness. Also, I've noticed that using the filter with my Motorolla cable box (HDTV), the image is too dim. If I had to choose between, I'd probably keep it off.

The reason I mentioned the 1000-1500 hour limit is because I believe the image would be too dim to use a filter at that point. I could be wrong though.

Plus there's another bonus, many times the HD movie will be changed from 2.35 to 1.85, bigger version

Most don't consider this a plus! This is butchering the film by cutting out information on the left and right that the director intended to be in the film! HBO does this chop and crop constantly and it drives me nuts! Our FP screens are big enough to not need to do this.

Or are you speaking of the open matte format such as how HBO aired the Matrix Trilogy lately? I suppose then it could be considered a plus as you are getting extra info that wasn't seen in the movie theaters, otherwise it's a minus as you are losing info.

As far as I know chop and crop is common whereas open matte is rare.

P.S. Loving my H79!!

--Brent

The reason I mentioned the 1000-1500 hour limit is because I believe the image would be too dim to use a filter at that point. I could be wrong though.
I understand. It might be. My point is just that using a brighter screen and an ND2 filter doesn't fix the too dim problem. It just moves the dimmest part to right before you remove the filter for good. And it gives you the advantage of being able to remove the filter day in and day out at your leisure. But it doesn't work to counteract bulb aging. The reason is that whatever ftL you pick as the lowest you will ever want to hit, the ND2 doesn't really keep you from that because you could have just skipped the ND2 and picked a screen that would have put you at that point at the end. Either way you have to decide on a 2x range if using an ND2 or not, without employing other techniques.

If anybody wants to do the math, you can trying choosing 24-12, 16-8, 12-6 or whatever 2x range you want and you will see than an ND2 doesn't help you keep from going outside that range (other than that we can only get screens with certain gains and so you can get some situations where it helps because of what I would call a "rounding error" kind of effect in specific cases).

It does allow you to put it on or take it off at your leisure early in the bulbs life, but this would be true whether bulbs dimmed or not. In other words, an ND2 can be good for testing the dimming effect from bulb aging, but an ND2 is not a solution to this issue and the reason for using one (not just testing with it) is basically unrelated to the fact that bulbs dim 50%. Basically, there would be just as much reason to use one if bulbs stayed at the exact same brightness from 0 hours to 2000 hours as there is with the 50% dimming factor. Other than some obscure reasons like you would rather be dimmer at first and brighter later.

If somebody can prove me wrong then I will of course eat crow, but I have run the numbers and done the analysis and don't see ND2 filters having value for use while watching things from the bulb dimming factor.

--Darin

I record what they give me and as long as the res looks good. It doesn't bother me if they've expanded a 2.35 to 1.85.

I got a real nice copy of Revolutions and Fargo recorded excellent. Fargo was 1.85 I don't really know if it was 1.85 on the DVD, no matter though the res was excellent.

As far as apects I have a different frame of view. :) I still like 4.3 at 120" diag. That's why I have an HT1000. The difference in the fitting of a 2.35 into a 1.85 isn't that drastic to me. Ok 2.35 into 4.3 is a little different.

But for sheer fun, you should see the size of the T-Rex in JP at 120" diagonal. Talk about large close ups.

The reason I mentioned the 1000-1500 hour limit is because I believe the image would be too dim to use a filter at that point. I could be wrong though.
I mentioned that a 2x ND filter (0.3 density) doesn't work to counteract bulb dimming, but a lower density would. I couldn't find any lower density glass filters in stock, but I ordered one of these (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=58563&is=REG) 0.2 density filters. I'm guessing it will be a month or so before I see it. I also ordered a less than $20 polyester one from another place, but I'm not sure when I will get it or how good it will be (it might hurt ANSI CR).

These block about 37% of the light instead of 50%. What this basically means is that you actually can decrease the total multiplier you will get across a bulb's life, which you can't do with a 2x or 50% blocking ND filter. For instance, if you have things setup to 16 ft-lamberts when new, instead of having to live with a 16-8 range if you want to use the full bulb without ever putting it on high, you could do something like start with the filter on for 10 ft-lamberts. Then when things dim to 8 you take it off and get 12.7 which then dims to 8 over time. Or if you would rather use a higher range that 12.7-8 you could get a brighter screen for instance. Say you go from 1.1 gain to 1.3 gain. That 16-8 becomes 18.9-9.5 (I'm ignoring uniformity issues for now). Now you could start with the filter for 11.9 and take it off when things hit 9.5 for 15. In short a filter like this could be used to change a 16-8 range or 18.9-9.5 range to:

12.7-8

or

15-9.5

There are other issues that I've mentioned with having the filter on there (like lower CR than with it off if there is any external ambient light), but these are just examples of how a <50% blocking ND filter could be used to counteract the bulb aging effect.

Rob,

I meant this as less of a specific thing to your setup than just as an example of one approach that could be taken. In your case a 63% blocking filter could be left on further into the bulb's life if you wanted to.

--Darin

Reference: GetGray 06-09-05, 02:53 PM Panamorph P752 on the H79 "review"

Thanks for the posting, I was bit wandering but here I have come back and it is very exciting to read your review. Feels like I am gonna go buy one such lens.

I said in next few weeks I was gonna buy one H79, I have been watching the quote- it is falling under 4.5k and that's pretty exciting too.

H79ians,

I got another question for you guys: I am going to have a fixed 2.35 screen and I will setup H79 to cover all of the screen for 2.35 material. When there is 16*9 material I am going to use H79 power-zoom to zoom the display into the center of the 2.35 screen (same height but leaving space on the left and right part of the screen). I wonder if it is going to be that easy, just use powerzoom to switch between 2.35 and 16*9 display; without having to adjust the screen postition or the projector position or any lens shift.

Has anyone done this kind of setup?

Dear Prabhatb,

The answer to your question is YES, and you don't need to change the projector position.

We tried the idea out at my friend's place, who wants to have a constant height 2.35:1 theater. Since he did not have the screen made yet, so we tried the concept out using a white wall.

1. We fixed the H77 positioned on a table.

2. H77 projects a 16x9 image onto the wall in tele-side of the lens (meaning smallest image size), mark the height (constant height) with color tapes.

3. We power zoom the image to wide-side of the lens (meaning largest image), put in a 2.35:1 movie, then use image shift to move the 2.35:1 height to the marked height (constant screen height), we need to adjust the zoom again, since H77 1.35x zoom is more than we need.

4. Now we have a 2.35:1 image matching the "constant screen height", of course, a wider image width than the 16x9 image, so now the 2.35:1 movies are wider than 16x9 movies, not just "shorter" or "smaller"!

Since he wants to ceiling mount his H77, so we intentionally did not use the lens shift to adjust the image to match 2.35:1 height to the screen height. If your H79 is within easy reach, you can use the lens shift as well to shift the image. When ceiling mounted, H77 has a digital image shift that you can shift the image to the desired position.

H77 (and H79) have 1.35x zoom, which is slightly more than you need to setup a constant height theater. Once my friend has the screen made, he will enjoy a 2.35:1 constant height theater with his H77. So, I beleive your H79 can do the same thing.

The other thing is H77 has digital image shift, in addition to lens shift, that if one ceiling mount the projector and cann't easily access to the lens shift, the digital shift makes this kind of constant image height possible.

The trick seems to be:
1. First, locate the desired screen location and size (according to your sitting area, where you want your screen height to be)
2. Simulate your H79 (celing mount or bookshelf mount) to projectr the tele-side of the lens to have 16x9 height match that of the screen height using lens shift or mounting position control.
3. Then you can fix that H79 position, and use power zoom and digital image shift or lens shift to display 2.35:1 withint the constant height.
4. Find a Pronto or some intelligent remote, and try to program that power zoom and digital image shift into Proton Macro command. If this Pronto Macro command idea works, you will have a DIY 2.35:1 constant height movie theater! ;)

Good luck. And let us know how you try it out (especially the Pronto thing since we didn't have Pronto at hands to try it out then)

And if you really succeed in setting all this up, controlled by Pronto, please share it in a new thread here or over the "Constant Image Height Chat" group, I believe many H77/H79 owners will be very interested to hear your experience.

I'm also experimenting with a constant height 2.35:1 setting, and find the Prismasonic H range of lenses do a good job without having to use the zoom or lens shift, since it has a pass-through mode. You get better resolution and the pixels remain the same height with the lens doing the stretch and the pj (or source) increasing the image height of the scope movies.

Gary.

Thanks TzungILin,

It was an amazing straight and detail answer to my question. I will definitely share my experience when it comes..

So, here one fact is clear, if you want to do fixed 2.35 screen, you gotta have power-zoom.

Thanks again.

So, here one fact is clear, if you want to do fixed 2.35 screen, you gotta have power-zoom.
True unless: You have a horizontal stretch anamorphic lens (eg: Prismasonic H1000), in which case the zoom and all the rest of the projector's throw stays constant. Just flip on stretching lens, then letterbox to full panel. This is the way I'm going ...

Still deciding between the H79 and IF7210. Just got an online subscription to WSR and will checkout the recent H79 review. Why'd they use a StudioTek 130? hmmm

TzungILin : Digital image shift does not work on DVI inputs AFAIK, component only. I for one almost exculsivley use DVI input so the feature is moot. Only the mechanical if you need to do it. And if I had to do it much, I'd add a knob (epoxy an knurled know, etc.)instead of the flat thing with bumps Optoma decided to give us.

True unless: You have a horizontal stretch anamorphic lens (eg: Prismasonic H1000), in which case the zoom and all the rest of the projector's throw stays constant. Just flip on stretching lens, then letterbox to full panel. This is the way I'm going ...

Still deciding between the H79 and IF7210. Just got an online subscription to WSR and will checkout the recent H79 review. Why'd they use a StudioTek 130? hmmm

It's an excellent review, " The H79's excellent interfield contrast ratio makes viewing high contrast scenes a pleasure"

WSR quote was something like that.

The Studio Tech is an ISF standard screen. Supposed to be good for color.

Darin, Is the filter a square 3" or 3" round. I may place an order for one. I was hoping to find something that filtered out less than the ND.3. I like the fact that I can put my 77" filter over the lens and it holds without screwing on or off.

Darin, Is the filter a square 3" or 3" round. I may place an order for one. I was hoping to find something that filtered out less than the ND.3. I like the fact that I can put my 77" filter over the lens and it holds without screwing on or off.
It looks to me like it is square. They tend to put the size in mm for round filters. There might be holders for it that would make it easier, but with how rare these 0.2 density filters are I figured I couldn't be too picky. And I'm most likely to just use it for testing, but I'll have to see. It would be nice to just be able to swap it easily for those who plan on doing this a lot.

--Darin

I don't recall seeing this q&a, but it's possible I missed it in this massive thread.

Optoma offers 12.3'-16.6' throw distance for a 106" diagonal screen. With a CRT, I would have moved the projector as close to the screen as possible while maximizing raster to squeeze as many ftl as possible. How much difference does it make with the H79, or any DLP for that matter? Does the same premise apply?

If I understand you correctly, then the position of a digital projector makes very little difference on the ft lamberts as the lumens will be still spread onto the screen area which is constant. Things like angle of reflectance and contrast may be effected depending on the zoom position of the lens though.

Having the pj as far back (but still filling the screen) so the zoom is at minimum means the light is passing through a smaller area of the lens so image quality should be at it's best, so in effect the opposite approach to CRT seems to be better. :)

Gary.

I'm also experimenting with a constant height 2.35:1 setting, and find the Prismasonic H range of lenses do a good job without having to use the zoom or lens shift, since it has a pass-through mode. You get better resolution and the pixels remain the same height with the lens doing the stretch and the pj (or source) increasing the image height of the scope movies.

Gary.

Dear Gary,

Yes, to use a 16x9 lens like Prismasonic or Panamorph is a better way to do it, in my opinion.

1. It gives you the full lamp power when watch 2.35:1. The zoom/shift way still uses 75% of the lamp on the image (black bars on top and bottom are not used)
2. More resolutions to render the picture.

However, one needs to move/flip the lens between 2.35:1 and 16x9 contents. Unless the projector is near by for you to access or with a power move/flip mechanism, the 16x9 lens could be an issue for those who mount their projectors.

So, it's nice to see some projectors have the capability for zoom/shift to do 2.35:1 without using 16x9 lens for the ceiling mount applications. IF what I described can be programmed into a Pronto or some intelligent remote, then using the zoom/shift is just a touch of a button, it's even more friendly than moving 16x9 lens.

Any other projector, other than H77/H79, that has power 1.32x zoom (the zoom needed to get 2.35:1 and 16x9 at the same height) and power focus? If not, this could be an unique application for H77/H79 owners to try constant height theater without 16x9 lens.

What I might do so that I don't have to twiddle the knobs is to drill a hole in the lens mount and arrange it so that it can be swung out of the way. This could easily be done with a broom handle device from below if a decent swivel joint is used (doesn't allow the lens to hang at an angle to much but still move freely). I can stand up and move it but it's just an idea for those who might want a similar option.

The H77 does work well at constant height without the lens though, as that was my first attempt at constant height. My only probelm is I use DVI so the panel shift can't be used so full zoom and lens shift have to be employed. The lens shift is a bit fiddly so I'm trying to not have to use that, hence the Prismasonic lens.

Gary.

Received my new H79 yesterday and spent half the night looking at some DVDs -- The H79 was placed on a table-top at about half the height of my (relatively cheap) 106" Dalite model B 'High Power' G=2.8 screen.

Since the H79 was purchased at an irresistably low price, I was at first a bit concerned that the projector might not be a good unit. However, when I turned the H79 on (right out of the box) I was immediately astonished by the picture quality. Denon DVD-2910 player, at 720p out, HDMI-to-DVI cable, & without any adjustments to H79 other than the usual focus and zoom.

'Seabiscut' DVD looked close to HD I've seen on satellite (upconverted by Denon to 720p) -- must have gotten one of the better H79 projectors since flesh tones looked great.

"Fifth Element" DVD flesh tones were as impressive as in the pictures that "guitarman" posted at the beginning of this thread.

"Firefly" sci-fi DVD dark scenes & shadow details were very impressive.

Evidently, feeding the H79 DVI input with an upconverted 720p signal works great.

I've seen the Sharp 12K with a Firehawk screen, and I feel that the mid-screen mounted H79 with a 'High Power' screen seems more vivid and 3D. Images seem to jump right out of the screen.
Disclaimer: the Sharp 12K setup might not have been optimum -- but the out-of-box setup of my new H79 was not yet optimized either.
In any case, the DaLite model B 106" 16:9 aspect 'High Power' screen is fantastic for the money. Initial impression is that the viewing cone of the HP is OK -- I could move around a bit and the image quality remained good.


Have a question: I am inexperienced with projectors, but H79 image brightness can evidently be reduced in the menu (use remote control) -- so maybe don't have to use a neutral-density filter if I would ever want to reduce brightness (HP screen is plenty bright in totally dark room, but not overly so) - or perhaps the menu brightness adjustment range may not be sufficient over the lifetime of the bulb?

Brightness adjusts the black level, and contrast adjusts the white level. You should use a calibration disk like Avia to set them correctly. They're not meant to be used to dim the image down like a filter would.

Gary.

Gary,

Thanks for info about projector brightness and contrast.

I forgot that for projector adjustment the word, "brightness", may be misleading.

I have a Video Essentials DVD and hope to do a rough H79 adjustment.

Perhaps simply increasing ambient light level in the room may temporarily reduce perceived brightness level.
Neutral filter looks like the best way to maintain highest contrast ratio though.

With the 106" High power screen the H79 image looks like a huge & bright plasma TV -- of course brighter than a movie theater, but IMO not too bright.

Perhaps simply increasing ambient light level in the room may temporarily reduce perceived brightness level.
It kills the CR though.


Neutral filter looks like the best way to maintain highest contrast ratio though..
The best way is usually a gray screen, although it won't change on/off CR when you have no external ambient light. An ND filter won't help CR, but it might hurt it compared to not having it on there (like when you have other light).


With the 106" High power screen the H79 image looks like a huge & bright plasma TV -- of course brighter than a movie theater, but IMO not too bright.
You might want to try an ND2 filter if you want to be able to choose between this level and half as much. Depending on the mode for that 12k and Firehawk, you may be 4x-6x brighter with the High Power and the H79.

--Darin

Bill, look for the THX optimizer to tune the brightness and contrast, it's on the new Star Wars DVD's, Nemo and plenty of others. OTB grayscale was very good on my H79. I'm at about 600hrs now and the image is still powerfully bright and 3D. I have the High Power screen also and we should take a look at a ND2 filter it's cheap enough. Don't put down that Model B becuse with your HP screen images will look as flat if you had a fixed screen, well just about as flat. I think you made a good choice of screen you'll have more room to mess around with. Good choice of projector also, seems too good for mortal men doesn't it?
enjoy

Good choice of projector also, seems too good for mortal men doesn't it?

Yes, the H-79 is truly the "projector of the Gods"...:rolleyes:

You bet it is Bobby boy. :)

Well, Tom, we shall see...I bought one!

Once it arrives, I will being doing some extended (like over a couple of months) comparisons between the H-79 and my 7210. I will probably ask for help to tweak the most out of it, as my 7210 is already well calibrated, and in order to be as objective and fair as possible, the H-79 should be equally well set up.

Due to the different mounting options available for the two projectors (preset offset for the 7210 vs. within screen bounds lens shift for the H-79), I will have the two projectors basically "stacked" and pointed at the same 100" X 56" Firehawk in a totally light controlled room. I will also go to great lengths to match them up in light output so that the only variable will be the projector itself. I have very high quality DVI and component switchers available, so they will recieve identical source material and the only time lag should be in powering up and down, and maybe I can even work out a system to cover the lenses or something.

Why am I doing this? Because I can...:)

Actually, as much as I like the 4805 in my bedroom, I am totally spoiled by the 7210 in my big theater and decided that I needed to upgrade. Buying a new and different projector gives me a chance to do an honest, extended, level field comparison between two great products. When I am done with the comparison, the winner stays downstairs and the "loser" goes into my bedroom. Either way, I am the winner in both cases...:D

I will have the two projectors basically "stacked" and pointed at the same 100" X 56" Firehawk in a totally light controlled room.
That should help with rainbows. :)

--Darin

That's sounds great Bob. It's much better being able to spend a good amount of time with each projector. OTB the 79 is set for a little higher contrast than D65k will bring. Maybe you can get Kevin to take an interest and bring over colorfacts for a look.
When do you get the puppy?

... I will being doing some extended (like over a couple of months) comparisons between the H-79 and my 7210 ...What a treat! Just in time for this 4805 owner to make the same decision. :)

Oh my - Bob is coming over to the DARK SIDE ( well, the not quite as bright side )!!

When do you get the puppy?

I was hoping to have it here by this weekend, but it is looking more like the middle of next week.

Oh my - Bob is coming over to the DARK SIDE ( well, the not quite as bright side )!!

Hehe...I was trying to figure a way to get that pun worked in, but you beat me to it! :)

Maybe you can get Kevin to take an interest and bring over colorfacts for a look.

Kevin lives on the other side of the country (unfortunately!), but I am considering having an ISF calibrator come in after about 100 hours. I guess it all depends on how much I can get out of it myself. One of the good points of the 7210 is its incredible out of box calibration. I will certainly ask for help here if the H-79 seems too far out of calibration initially, or if I have any problems dialing it in myself.

Looks like you'll wind up with the two best projectors around right now - you can't really lose Bob, now can you!!