Joe: The patterns I mean are: T 12 Chp 14 and T 12 Ch 15. Also, T 12 Chps 2-13 have quite a few patterns with PLUGE for setting black level. These BTB PLUGE bars may clip. Chps 14 and 15 show the whole range, and also white, so I find them more useful in assessing the system, and where, if at all, there is clipping.

I think this discussion of DVI-V vs DVI-PC should end here for this thread. I used Scott's patterns to double check the DVE results and found that I can coax my system into seeing WTW and BTB by adjusting the Oppo, whether the Lumagen video processor is set to PC or Video DVI levels.

What seems to make the most sense to me right now is to set the Lumagen to PC level and leave the Oppo at its 0 defaults (which is what Scott suggested originally). For someone without the ability to switch between PC and Video levels, upping the Oppo brightness (and maybe lowering its contrast) seems like a reasonable move. I suspect a pretty good image is possible using either method, based on the threads I've read on the Oppo.

Originally, my goal in asking the question was just to get the best possible outcome for the calibration, and to understand the difference. Maybe in a couple of years all the manufacturers will have ironed out the standards, and the terms will mean the same thing to everyone.

The only thing that seems certain to me right now is that the transition to digital video, although filled with promise, is still a little messy.

Joe: It's late and my eyes are getting quite confused between oppo and optoma! But let me see if I follow where it is you ended up. You have the lumagen OUTPUT and the input of your Optoma display both set to Video levels, and this you has remained constant.

The output of your oppo source, and the Lumagen DVI INPUT are in play. It's been a while since I played with a lumagen, so maybe I can dig up a manual again, but I'm confused as to what the combination of the input and output settings of the lumagen is doing.. It is a processor, not a display or source, so as long it isn't affecting a change in levels, it should be getting the full 0-255 range, and wherever the data falls should stay the same when it's output. The issue is what the source is outputting. The source should maintain black at 16, white ate 235, but the lumagen should pass all 0-255 through to the display.

Here's my idea to totally clarify things: take the lumagen out of the chain for a moment, and connect the source directly to your display, and see what the source outputs in its default setting when viewed on the display(with white and black level points moved in so you are sure to see the whole range from the source). If there is clipping in default, can you avoid this by raising the black level on the source, and lowering the white level on the source, or choosing a Video levels output mode? Shoot for maintaining the full range as you look at the DVE ramps if possible, also be wary about contouring problems when doing this. Now your source should be outputting video levels properly and without clipping, roughly.

Now, re-insert the lumagen into the chain, and adjust the lumagen input and output options so that you have the same picture as before, maintaining the full range.

Now go back to your display and calibrate.

hope that helps?

I have a question for the H79 owners out there. I demoed a unit on the weekend and I had a question about 4:3 material viewing. Is there a way to configure the projector to display such material at full height, with black bars on the left and right? I know that there's a native mode that displays it in the middle of the screen, and a cinema mode which stretches it to fit 16:9, but I've got a lot of TV series box sets that I'd like to display at full height, without relying on the digital zoom feature of the projector.

Thanks!

I have a question for the H79 owners out there. I demoed a unit on the weekend and I had a question about 4:3 material viewing. Is there a way to configure the projector to display such material at full height, with black bars on the left and right? I know that there's a native mode that displays it in the middle of the screen, and a cinema mode which stretches it to fit 16:9, but I've got a lot of TV series box sets that I'd like to display at full height, without relying on the digital zoom feature of the projector.

Thanks!
Yes, Optoma calls it "Window" mode. It will stretch your 480i/p image to 720p and give pillarbox sides.

Joe:

Chris is definately the expert here but here's my take on it for a relative laymens point of view :):

If you can adjust anything in your chain so as to see the BTB bars and the WTW bars, then I would think the Oppo's output is at video levels. If it was doing PC levels (properly) then when it decoded say a digital 12 (BTB) it would truncate that and make it 0. It woudl convert the remaining digital levels of 16-235 to the 0-255 that's sent out the DVI port in either case. So it would never output any original information coded below 16, and thus you'd never see it (BTB) on your display.

The fact that you can see it (BTB/WTW) implies that the Oppo *is* outputting video levels and not truncating below black (and above white by the same tests) information.

Based on that, I'd set the entire chain to video levels and work from there.

To throw in some more digital wrenches (sorry) the interesting thing to me here is this... My DVD is SDI out, so it's doing digital RGB to the scaler. Scaler is doing digital RGB to the PJ. The DVD player shouldn't screw with the digital signal preferably (mine does not). It should decode the mpeg, and send the resulting decoded digital level numbers merrily out the DVI port, unaltered. Point being, you should be able to use the built in test pattern on the Lumagen to set the Lumagen to PJ relationship. Adjust the H79, not the Lumagen, leave it at it's defaults. Once that's done, the PJ will display digital 16 and 235 as white and black respectively on your screen. The PJ can show BTB or WTW bars depending on where you set your contrast and brightness.

Now enter the Oppo. If it's done right internally, it should not screw with the luminance levels of the digital decode from the mpeg off the DVD. It may well do it, but ideally should just send the digital signal on it's way, with no conversions; read a 16, send a 16, read a 14, send a 14, etc. That's one of the advantages to a digital signal IMO. At that point it may take a hair of an adjustment, but shouldn't need much.

The fact that the Oppo gives the opportunity to adjust the brightness on it's digital RGB output means it has the firmware to mess with the digital signal. So how that is implemented makes all bets off :( One would think that the default woudl be to not do anything to the levels being decoded.

Generally I try had not to do any adjustments of the source when it comes to brightness, contrast, etc. You mayhave to with the Oppo as you've discovered.

And I agree anyting you suspect a problem in the chain, or arent' positive, removeing as many variables as possible (i.e. Lumagen) can be helpful in diagnosing the issue.

Hopefully Chris will have time to correct anything I sad that's just plain wrong :).

HTH,
Scott

...To throw in some more digital wrenches (sorry) the interesting thing to me here is this... My DVD is SDI out, so it's doing digital RGB to the scaler. Scaler is doing digital RGB to the PJ. The DVD player shouldn't screw with the digital signal preferably (mine does not). It should decode the mpeg, and send the resulting decoded digital level numbers merrily out the DVI port, unaltered. Point being, you should be able to use the built in test pattern on the Lumagen to set the Lumagen to PJ relationship. Adjust the H79, not the Lumagen, leave it at it's defaults. Once that's done, the PJ will display digital 16 and 235 as white and black respectively on your screen. The PJ can show BTB or WTW bars depending on where you set your contrast and brightness.

Now enter the Oppo. If it's done right internally, it should not screw with the luminance levels of the digital decode from the mpeg off the DVD. It may well do it, but ideally should just send the digital signal on it's way, with no conversions; read a 16, send a 16, read a 14, send a 14, etc. That's one of the advantages to a digital signal IMO. At that point it may take a hair of an adjustment, but shouldn't need much.

The fact that the Oppo gives the opportunity to adjust the brightness on it's digital RGB output means it has the firmware to mess with the digital signal. So how that is implemented makes all bets off :( One would think that the default woudl be to not do anything to the levels being decoded.

Generally I try had not to do any adjustments of the source when it comes to brightness, contrast, etc. You mayhave to with the Oppo as you've discovered.

And I agree anyting you suspect a problem in the chain, or arent' positive, removeing as many variables as possible (i.e. Lumagen) can be helpful in diagnosing the issue.

Hopefully Chris will have time to correct anything I sad that's just plain wrong :).

HTH,
Scott

Scott,

SDI is not RGB, it is YCbCr digital component and it also can be digital composite in an earlier form.

What you say should be true if the manufacturers would implement the specs correctly (16 being mapped to 0, etc.) . The problem is, they do not and it sounds like this is the case with the Oppo.

I do not agree that you should leave the source alone though. Think about this, if the source was clipping or crushing on it's output, then nothing you do further down the chain can recover that missing info, it's already gone into the digital dumpster. ALWAYS start with the source and work your way through the chain ensuring each piece is outputting the proper level...if it can.

That's exactly why I love SDI also, you can't mess with the values like you can with DVI/HDMI and each manufacturer seems to want to interpret the rules differently and implement their own "solution".:rolleyes:

Adjust the H79, not the Lumagen, leave it at it's defaults.

Please see above. I recommend, once you get the source (DVD Player) outputting correctly, do most of the adjustments with the Lumagen or whatever scaler/processor you're using. That is one of the main reasons you have it there in the first place, it is a dedicated high quality video processing device to do these sorts of things and to take it away from inferior processing built into sources and displays. Then and only then would I tweak the display as needed to get that last ounce of performance.

Please see above. I recommend, once you get the source (DVD Player) outputting correctly, do most of the adjustments with the Lumagen or whatever scaler/processor you're using. That is one of the main reasons you have it there in the first place, it is a dedicated high quality video processing device to do these sorts of things and to take it away from inferior processing built into sources and displays. Then and only then would I tweak the display as needed to get that last ounce of performance.

Thanks for the clarification on the SDI signal.

I respectifully disagree in part on this last point, or not ;). Maybe I misread your point in which case, nevermind ;)

When you have a intermediate device like the Lumagen that is outputting a known, relatively simple digital signal (digital RGB), then I think it's best to get the relationship between it and the PJ first. Adjust the PJ to the reference signal. THEN adjust the sources (preferably using the input adjustments on teh processor) to match this "reference" setup on the PJ. In this arrangement, the PJ to scaler setup is constant and correct.

With DVI out of a Lumagen, you can use the Lumagen as a signal generator with it's built in patterns to do a grayscale. It's sending out a reference signal, which is realtively easy with digital RGB (just send 0-255 RGB) no analog to hose.

Once the Lumagen and PJ relationship is set, you can use the source to adjust, but I use the processor's input adjustments to tweak the incoming signal to match the reference.

That's what the gurus at Lumagen say, too. But you can straighten me out :) I'm pretty close to Chris's byline anyway, so feel free to add to it :)

It's this method (using a reference to set the PJ) that Tom's counting on doing folks grayscale setting by mail using his new Accupel. Set the PJ, set everything else to match.

Cheers, Scott

Yes, I agree with your statements, but if adjustments need to be done, they should be done with the scaler because as you say, the display should be already calibrated to be doing the reference that it was set up to do, i.e. - greyscale. That's why I said not to adjust the display.

Remember the scaler is the hub of the video system and should be tweaked for each of it's inputs.

What it comes down to is this: the display should be aligned to reference values for digital video, and the source should be outputting these values correctly without shifting. If there are other things in the chain, such as processors, they should remain transparent, and pass the levels that are output by the source device.

If the source device is not performing correctly, first step is to try to get it to output levels correctly. If there is confusion about what intermediary devices like a processor maybe doing, best to remove those temporarily if you can to figure out what the source is actually doing.

Remember the scaler is the hub of the video system and should be tweaked for each of it's inputs.

For analog, this is true. For digital, unless the source is wrong, all video source inputs should align equally.

Scott: thanks for reminding me that the lumagen has patterns built-in, this can be a useful tool too, to make sure that the display is setup correctly to that, and then work backwards from there at the source and the lumagen's input settings to get the correct output from the source as well.

Agreed, that's really what I've been trying to say. As you say.."if the source is wrong"..., that's why I said "if" tweaking/adjusting needs to be done (after all is done to the source that can be done and it is outputting correctly), do it at the scaler level and as a last resort, the display.

That's part of the beauty of this. Different techniques to get to the same end results. Either way, you want EVERY part of your video system to be setup and outputting the best possible signal to reach video nirvana, no matter how bad some manufacturers try to screw it up;)

Joe: It's late and my eyes are getting quite confused between oppo and optoma! But let me see if I follow where it is you ended up. You have the lumagen OUTPUT and the input of your Optoma display both set to Video levels, and this you has remained constant.

The output of your oppo source, and the Lumagen DVI INPUT are in play. It's been a while since I played with a lumagen, so maybe I can dig up a manual again, but I'm confused as to what the combination of the input and output settings of the lumagen is doing.. It is a processor, not a display or source, so as long it isn't affecting a change in levels, it should be getting the full 0-255 range, and wherever the data falls should stay the same when it's output. The issue is what the source is outputting. The source should maintain black at 16, white ate 235, but the lumagen should pass all 0-255 through to the display.

Here's my idea to totally clarify things: take the lumagen out of the chain for a moment, and connect the source directly to your display, and see what the source outputs in its default setting when viewed on the display(with white and black level points moved in so you are sure to see the whole range from the source). If there is clipping in default, can you avoid this by raising the black level on the source, and lowering the white level on the source, or choosing a Video levels output mode? Shoot for maintaining the full range as you look at the DVE ramps if possible, also be wary about contouring problems when doing this. Now your source should be outputting video levels properly and without clipping, roughly.

Now, re-insert the lumagen into the chain, and adjust the lumagen input and output options so that you have the same picture as before, maintaining the full range.

Now go back to your display and calibrate.

hope that helps?

OK, Chris, I'll do as you suggest. Thanks.

So far so good. I have the H 79 up and running with the component and S video. I have to wait til tomorrow for the DVI input (my main one). The HD TIVO looks excellent using the component connection. HD is very smooth and closeups are as sharp as can be. The biggest difference over the benq is sharpness and less noise in dark and light images. I can't wait til the Gefen Boost/HDMI coupler comes tomorrow and I can get down to business (HD TIVO, SP1000 dvd player, JVC HM5 U)...

Looking for a good inexpensive celing mount for my Optoma H79. Would like something that is relatively flush mounted (I don't need a pole). Anyone have any recomendations?

Thanks.

Vogel works with some very minor mods. It's cheap and very low profile. It's what I use. You have to drill out the holes for the 6mm (8mm? forget) bolts into the PJ. The arm's holes are a little too small. I used stainless steel button-head cap screws (allen socket) that I picked up at the local bolt store. All works well. I'll try to take a picture of it and post it early next week. May need to remind me.

Scott

I will make it available publically sometime this week, next at the latest. I have one submenu to touchup and one extra pattern to create and add. It is a 3Mb .iso file. You will have to have a DVD burner to make your own. I'll might make a mailing available for those who don't for a small charge to cover expenses.

I will post a quick snipet here when it's ready (since I let the cat out here), but I will start a thread in the right place when I have it ready.OK, for those of you who PM'd me about the calibration disc, I have started a thread in the calibration forum. If you are interested, subscribe to that thread, that's where I'll provide more information about it as it progresses. Thanks, Scott

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586139

Perfect! I just ran my MONSTER HDMI400 35 foot cable and I am pleased to say "No Sparklies"!!! Sure component looks great, but the DVI input is where it is at! I followed Guitarman's settings (thanks again) and I am being floored at how real the picture quality is. Tonite we are planning a screening of Cinderella and my family can't wait!!! Neither can I (even though it is a kids film)...

My H79 arrives here tomorrow and it will be interesting to see how it compared to my old Sim2 300xtra-H.
Would also like to thank Tom guitarman and friends for the handy setup tips, should make fast tracking to a decent picture that tiny bit easier :) .

Dustin,

I think you will like it better than the Sim2. I did:) Now if you're talking about the Sim2 C3X that's a different story:D!!!

Perfect! I just ran my MONSTER HDMI400 35 foot cable and I am pleased to say "No Sparklies"!!! Sure component looks great, but the DVI input is where it is at! I followed Guitarman's settings (thanks again) and I am being floored at how real the picture quality is. Tonite we are planning a screening of Cinderella and my family can't wait!!! Neither can I (even though it is a kids film)...

That new commercial comes to mind (Cinderella) "Men should act like Men" ;)
I know you said Family.

Try Sin City on the H79 next. Excellent job at handling this very dark movie with flashes of color in B&W scenes.

Tom,

I´ve been reading that the new Panasonic AE900 and Sanyo Z4 can rival the H79 in terms of image quality.

What do you think about that?

I read the same review at pjcentral. I chalk that up as them trying to move more Sanyo pjs. Or someone has bad eyesight!

Becuase the DMD allows the purest black and white shown at the same time I'd imagine the overall contrast and intra-field contrast to be allot better on the DLP.

Anyone know if it is likely that the H79 will get a software update (or if the new units have an later version of the software than the early shipments)? Also, is it possible to upgrade the software without sending the unit back to Optoma?

Anyone know if it is likely that the H79 will get a software update (or if the new units have an later version of the software than the early shipments)? Also, is it possible to upgrade the software without sending the unit back to Optoma?
Unlikely. Very IMO.
No.
and, No.

It probably got hot. Heat on in the house, heat raises the PJ goes into protect mode. I've had this happen once or twice.

I am also starting to think there may be power supply issues with these things:( There are too many funky things that pop up with them and many times it is because the PS isn't regulated properly and voltages sag and rise intermittently.

We used to see wierd issues like this when our TV transmitter's PS would start to go bad too. Small circuit anomalies and the like.

The PJ is in my basement and it is always about 68*. I am going to check to make sure the fan is running next time I fire it up. Tom, wouldn't the service menu show any overheating problems?

No there's no log for heating errors only the led lights when it happens.

I have had my H79 projector for about 3 months but just started using due to my HT being constructed. The orange temp led has flashed on powerdown the last two out of three times observed. I have only run it about 4 to 5 times. It says in the users manual to have the projector serviced if it is persistent. Anyone else have this issue?

Never seen that, just the blue LED flashes. Use it more, see what happens.

I have had my H79 projector for about 3 months but just started using due to my HT being constructed. The orange temp led has flashed on powerdown the last two out of three times observed. I have only run it about 4 to 5 times. It says in the users manual to have the projector serviced if it is persistent. Anyone else have this issue?

The orange LED flashes most of the time when the pj shuts down on mine. I didn't see the note in the manual about having the pj serviced if this is the case. Time to get in touch with with Optoma, I guess.

How many hours did you put on it like that?

How many hours did you put on it like that?

100s. It's been doing it from day one and I've used it a LOT.

Seems a shame to send it in if it works without a hitch. You have a 3yr warranty and could send anytime if you had to. If you're not past the 90day bulb warranty you might consider it now. My guess is the problem is just a false warning light glitch. Optoma could clear it up for sure, you just have to decide when. :)

Mine seems to be doing it all the time! I have it sitting on a cardboard box for the moment. I should have a shelf to hold it installed within the next few weeks so I'll see if it makes a difference. I notice the right rear side of the projector gets very hot so I wonder how effective the fan is. Joseph Clark let me know what Optoma says? I am going to wait til after its housed on the shelf unless you get info that may change my mind. By the way guitarman, the projector initially flashes blue but after 30 secs to a min, an orange temp led flashes then shuts down after another 30 secs to a minute.

Does the cardboard top sag at all? The intakes are on the bottom and if the projector sinks down you get less flow.

I think for those considering the H79 and reading these threads it's important to point out that most of us don't have any trouble. Those having trouble post issues, which are to be expected, but if it's working and beautiful, we don't really have anything to "contribute". So to give some balance,

My H79 has never flashed an orange light, ever. When I turn it on, it's blue, when I turn it off, it flashes blue and turns off. It is mounted on an extended pole about 18" down from a 9' ceiling, no obstructions whatsoever, no dust. I have my complete HT system plugged into the same high end 2000w APC SmartUPS (true Sine wave) UPS. It is fed via a Lumagen HDP via DVI, controlled with my AV-RS232, and it has always worked perfectly. Want to see a fine picture, see my SDI DVD player scaled to full panel showing a 2.35 movie through my Panamorph P752 anamorphic lens on a 110" Firehawk. What letterbox bars? They are effectively gone, adn man what a nice picture it throws. I'm at 450 hours, maybe time to shift into high bulb mode, or stick in my spare bulb for that added pop!

No good deed goes unpunished, my PJ pole will break tomorrow just for making this post :D

Does the cardboard top sag at all? The intakes are on the bottom and if the projector sinks down you get less flow.

Plus don't forget to clean the filter every few months.

Tom,
Did you clean the filter in mine when you had it? :) :)

Scott

No but I did notice it said H79DC3 on the light engine inside.
















Gottcha

I think for those considering the H79 and reading these threads it's important to point out that most of us don't have any trouble. Those having trouble post issues, which are to be expected, but if it's working and beautiful, we don't really have anything to "contribute". So to give some balance,

My H79 has never flashed an orange light, ever. When I turn it on, it's blue, when I turn it off, it flashes blue and turns off. It is mounted on an extended pole about 18" down from a 9' ceiling, no obstructions whatsoever, no dust. I have my complete HT system plugged into the same high end 2000w APC SmartUPS (true Sine wave) UPS. It is fed via a Lumagen HDP via DVI, controlled with my AV-RS232, and it has always worked perfectly. Want to see a fine picture, see my SDI DVD player scaled to full panel showing a 2.35 movie through my Panamorph P752 anamorphic lens on a 110" Firehawk. What letterbox bars? They are effectively gone, adn man what a nice picture it throws. I'm at 450 hours, maybe time to shift into high bulb mode, or stick in my spare bulb for that added pop!

No good deed goes unpunished, my PJ pole will break tomorrow just for making this post :D

I totally agree!!! I posted this elsewhere if anyone's interested???

I have a brand new one I'm about to list for $4499 and I can sell it with a Lumagen VisionHDP (with VisionPro udgrades)/Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD/Stewart StudioTek 130 screen material combo for a little more if anyone's interested? I will also calibrate the combo system for free before shipping.

I totally agree!!! I posted this elsewhere if anyone's interested???

I have a brand new one I'm about to list for $4499 and I can sell it with a Lumagen VisionHDP (with VisionPro udgrades)/Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD/Stewart StudioTek 130 screen material combo for a little more if anyone's interested? I will also calibrate the combo system for free before shipping.

That's a great offer, Dave! Wish we could go back about 3 or 4 months and you'd have a very quick sale.

I've decided not to worry about the orange light on my H79. It's not caused me a single problem since I got it, even though it flashes orange almost every time I shut down.

Since GetGray has made the point about the nits we pick with the H79, let me just add a few cents worth. This projector has provided the best "bang for the buck" of anything I have bought for myself over the last 30 years - that's anything! I used to be a movie going fanatic - 3 or 4 times a week in the multiplex, paying too much for popcorn and schlepping through spilled Coke. There is absolutely nothing that will make you forget about that quicker than a wall sized HD screen in your own home. Forget about 50" plasmas or 60" LCD rear projectors. A front projector is the only thing now that can give you that experience.

I thought I was in heaven with my Sharp 9000 four years ago, and this H79 is an order of magnitude better than that. I might like to go back a few months to take Dave up on this offer, but one trip back in time I would not take is pre-HD. If you love movies or broadcast HDTV, forget all these nits and take Dave up on his offer. Hurry!

Wow, thanks for the endorsement Joe:)!!!!! I'd have to totally agree with you on that. The H79 combo is simply amazing for the price and performance you get.

I remember just a couple years ago when I worked with TAW, Inc. that we thought $20K was a steal for the HD800 CRT projector alone:eek:!!!

Wow, thanks for the endorsement Joe:)!!!!! I'd have to totally agree with you on that. The H79 combo is simply amazing for the price and performance you get.

I remember just a couple years ago when I worked with TAW, Inc. that we thought $20K was a steal for the HD800 CRT projector alone:eek:!!!

And someday we'll all be laughing about the time when we needed a projector for our wall sized displays. Maybe we'll be rolling them on like wallpaper for a few dollars a square foot by then. Until then, I'll sit back, revel in this picture and be very thankful I lived to see it all happen.

Why has no one jumped on this offer yet? Life's too short.

Amen brother:D!!!

I agree with the bang-for-the-buck opinion. I am very pleased with the H79 and I only use a sheet til my screen comes in. I will evaluate the orange light issue when my shelf is installed. Someone asked if the cardboard sags and it in fact does. This may be the problem. It is encouraging to see Joe Clark has had this issue for quite some time with no negative results but it may have negative side affects later on if temps are too hot.

I am going to be purchasing either a H78dc3 or a H79 in the next few days. The problem is making the decision between the H78dc3 or the H79. In reading through the forums over the past several months it appears that more people purchase the H79 than the H78dc3, even though the H79 is more expensive. For those who purchased the H79, what were some of your reasons of purchasing the H79 over the H78dc3?

In looking at Optoma's site, the 4 main differences I can see between the H78 and the H79 are... the H79 is quieter than the H78dc3 (by a couple of db), the bulb has a little bit of a longer life in the H79 (about 250 more hours), the H79 has a 4500:1 contrast ratio the H78 has 4000:1, and the H79 has an extra year warranty (3 years compared to 2 years for the H78dc3). Here in Canada, the H78dc3 is about $1200 cheaper than the H79.

With the H78dc3 being basically the same projector as the H79, and being substantially cheaper than the H79, why did you chose the H79 over the H78dc3, or the H78dc3 over the H79? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

One other stat is 800 lumens vs 1000 lumens. I had an incredible deal on a 79 which madw it easier to justify getting it. I also like the fact that they do use better parts for it and it is their flagship model. The warranty is a nice feature to. The main hting is the cost. If you can afford the extra plus good quality electronics (dvd player, receiver, speakers, etc.) then go for the 79. If you could save some money and get a great dvd player or whatever, then get the 78. Most will be hard pressed to notice a difference. Probably only those that currently own 79s would see slight differences. Since you never had a 79, you can't miss something you never had...

I think for those considering the H79 and reading these threads it's important to point out that most of us don't have any trouble. Those having trouble post issues, which are to be expected, but if it's working and beautiful, we don't really have anything to "contribute". So to give some balance,

My H79 has never flashed an orange light, ever. When I turn it on, it's blue, when I turn it off, it flashes blue and turns off. It is mounted on an extended pole about 18" down from a 9' ceiling, no obstructions whatsoever, no dust. I have my complete HT system plugged into the same high end 2000w APC SmartUPS (true Sine wave) UPS. It is fed via a Lumagen HDP via DVI, controlled with my AV-RS232, and it has always worked perfectly. Want to see a fine picture, see my SDI DVD player scaled to full panel showing a 2.35 movie through my Panamorph P752 anamorphic lens on a 110" Firehawk. What letterbox bars? They are effectively gone, adn man what a nice picture it throws. I'm at 450 hours, maybe time to shift into high bulb mode, or stick in my spare bulb for that added pop!

No good deed goes unpunished, my PJ pole will break tomorrow just for making this post :D

Ouch! You had to conjure bad mojo, didn't you? My H79 just fired up at about 20 - 25% brightness and stayed that way. Maybe the orange light *was* an indicator of a problem. I thought I had started to notice a dimming over the last few days, but I wasn't sure. No doubt now.

I've contacted Jason at AVS (the pj probably will go straight to Optoma, right?), but I wondered if anyone else had run into this issue.

Yes, it will go to Optoma. I had almost the same thing when my bulb went bad, but it didn't get that low as far as brightness:eek:

Yes, it will go to Optoma. I had almost the same thing when my bulb went bad, but it didn't get that low as far as brightness:eek:

Was your problem the bulb itself? If so, is the bulb covered under warranty? My H79 is going off to Optoma today (if the RMA number comes via e-mail).

Now that I've pulled a secondary bedroom HDTV into the livingroom temporarily while the Optoma is down, I can reaffirm what I said before about a big screen. Size does matter! Projectors are the only way to go for an immersive home theater experience.

Did that H79 you had for sale get scooped up? You know, I read a lot of the other posts about Ruby and other 1080p technologies, but I'm not sorry I got the H79 when I did. I'm very happy with this projector and I think I will be for the next 3 or 4 years. By then, 1080p probably will be a lot cheaper, and a lot of the issues (like HD-DVD/BluRay/Holographic HD/1080p source material/etc) should be a lot clearer.

With the pace of change in these technologies, 3 or 4 years is a good time frame to think about making a change. A lot of people make that sort of change with a car, which costs a lot more than a video display and a car is a far less rewarding experience than home theater (I'm long past my sports car days).

Hope Optoma is better than Sharp was when my 9000 went down. I was without a projector for a month when that happened.

I am also thinking about buying an Optoma H79. I would like to know if you think it really makes a big difference using the DVI instead of Component cable connection? I currently have a Yamaha RXV 795a connected to a component switch box to enable my Sony HD200 Satellite Receiver and SONY Dvd player to connect to my 50" Pioneer 503 CMX Plasma tv using the component cable and it looks great. But I now want to add the Optoma H79 Projector in the same room (the idea is for the screen to drop in front of the plasma), but I read another review that the DVI / HDMI connection is the way to go. My problem is my DVD player does not have a DVI/HDMI connection although my Satelite receiver does. Any suggestions on how to add the Projector to my current set up? Anyone???


Thanks,

Jorge
:confused:

I am also thinking about buying an Optoma H79. I would like to know if you think it really makes a big difference using the DVI instead of Component cable connection? I currently have a Yamaha RXV 795a connected to a component switch box to enable my Sony HD200 Satellite Receiver and SONY Dvd player to connect to my 50" Pioneer 503 CMX Plasma tv using the component cable and it looks great. But I now want to add the Optoma H79 Projector in the same room (the idea is for the screen to drop in front of the plasma), but I read another review that the DVI / HDMI connection is the way to go. My problem is my DVD player does not have a DVI/HDMI connection although my Satelite receiver does. Any suggestions on how to add the Projector to my current set up? Anyone???


Thanks,

Jorge
:confused:

You should hope that Dave hasn't sold the Optoma H79 and Lumagen HDP yet. That's a great combination. It allows you to run one DVI cable to the projector, while connecting your various DVI and component sources to the Lumagen. If you're planning on using both a projector and the plasma (I'm assuming maybe daytime use for the plasma?), you'll need some sort of distribution system to get the signal to both displays at the same time. There may be some HDCP issues with a configuration like that. I'm not sure.

I see a distinct difference between component and DVI with my soureces, and I much prefer DVI. I also have some line noise issues in my house that were making it very difficult to get a clean picture with component signals only. That went away with the DVI connection.

I totally agree!!! I posted this elsewhere if anyone's interested???

I have a brand new one I'm about to list for $4499 and I can sell it with a Lumagen VisionHDP (with VisionPro udgrades)/Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD/Stewart StudioTek 130 screen material combo for a little more if anyone's interested? I will also calibrate the combo system for free before shipping.


Dave,

How much for the H79/Lumagen Vision HDP/Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD combo?

Thanks,

Jorge

I'm in the market. Can you give me the min and max throw distances? I am limited to 204" in the depth of my room. I am replacing a DWIN HD700. am in MD. Please reply ASAP.

I currently use the DVI with my Onkyo Sp1000 and JVC HM5 U DTHEATER player. I use the component connection with my HDTIVo. And after many A and Bs I do not notice hardly any difference between the two for HDTV. The component allows me to add color (not adjustable with DVI) to my HD NFL games and other content. Both are very impressive but obviously for the dvd player the DVI input is the only way to go. Dvds upconverted to 720p are amazing to say the least. And I could spend two paragraphs typing about how great the DTHEATER titles look (I RoBOT, ICE AGE, U571, The Haunting, and countless others...)!

I am also thinking about buying an Optoma H79. I would like to know if you think it really makes a big difference using the DVI instead of Component cable connection?

I send a 720p signal from my SDI modded Panny RP56 and iScan scaler via component to my H79. I've tried DVI too, both from the scaler and from a Bravo D1. I can't hardly see any difference with most stuff. Personally, I use the component inputs. And some DVD stuff almost looks like HDTV with that!

I currently use the DVI with my Onkyo Sp1000 and JVC HM5 U DTHEATER player. I use the component connection with my HDTIVo. And after many A and Bs I do not notice hardly any difference between the two for HDTV. The component allows me to add color (not adjustable with DVI) to my HD NFL games and other content. Both are very impressive but obviously for the dvd player the DVI input is the only way to go. Dvds upconverted to 720p are amazing to say the least. And I could spend two paragraphs typing about how great the DTHEATER titles look (I RoBOT, ICE AGE, U571, The Haunting, and countless others...)!

I RoBOT is an eye opener for DVHS. Hey how do I get my receiver to pick up DTS?Everytime I start it DD takes over. I hit DTS on the receivers remote and no go. There's no menu choices for DTS/DD like with DVD.

On the JVC HM5 U remote there is a clear(written in green) button on the right hand corner. Above it says monitor. Hit that and on the screen you will have D.D. and stream (DTS) options. Believe me you will notice a difference when you watch these movies in DTS. I have over 90 titles in the DTHEATER format and still watch them quite often. The H79 is at its best when one of these DVHS movies is playing!

Dave,

How much for the H79/Lumagen Vision HDP/Pioneer Elite DV-59avi DVD combo?

Thanks,

Jorge

I'm sorry, but yes it is sold already. I said a deal like that wasn't going to last;)!!!

jvera5920 : I use a SDI modded Denon 2900 feeding a Lumagen HDP then DVI to the H79. I fond my picture a little sharper with this arrangement vs component. In this arrangement, I'm digital from the disc all the way to the projector, not one analog conversion. I like this better than component for a variety of reasons. Image is a bit better IMO, plus the Lumagen makes it so the H79 does not have to resync when I change sources. The H79's resyncing speed (or lack of) adn it's remotes were my biggest complaints. I fixed the remote and added the discretes with my AV-RS232, the Lumagen HDP took care of the rest of my complaints. Now it's a very nice combo. The only thing I don't have I want for now is an extra 1200 lumens. If those 3 chip DLP's will just drop a hair further though, I'm selling my H79 and going for one of those light cannons (IF777 or Sim C3X). Or if someone made me an offer I couldn't refuse on my H79 (one of the good ones) :):) I could get off the fence and get Jason to round me up a 3 chipper. But man I'd miss how quiet this puppy is. Ahhhh.

Ouch! You had to conjure bad mojo, didn't you? My H79 just fired up at about 20 - 25% brightness and stayed that way. Maybe the orange light *was* an indicator of a problem. I thought I had started to notice a dimming over the last few days, but I wasn't sure. No doubt now.

I've contacted Jason at AVS (the pj probably will go straight to Optoma, right?), but I wondered if anyone else had run into this issue.

This is exactly what just happened to my H78DC3. I never had any flashing orange lights though. Was working great then about 5 days ago suddenly dim. Sunny outdoor scenes (such as HDTV football) suddenly looked like dusk scenes. Just sent mine in to Optoma Canada yesterday. All this with only about 100 hours of use. At least it went now so I can get the problem fixed and hopefully enjoy a long stretch of trouble free use.

This is exactly what just happened to my H78DC3. I never had any flashing orange lights though. Was working great then about 5 days ago suddenly dim. Sunny outdoor scenes (such as HDTV football) suddenly looked like dusk scenes. Just sent mine in to Optoma Canada yesterday. All this with only about 100 hours of use. At least it went now so I can get the problem fixed and hopefully enjoy a long stretch of trouble free use.

I sent my H79 off today. After I described my symptoms (orange light flashing at shutdown, not responding at all to the remote - not just slowly but not at all, running very hot, sudden dimness) the tech just volunteered to swap it out. He told me as an H79 owner I qualified for a swap out during the first year, and apparently my symptoms qualified.

I was very impressed with the tech who spoke with me. Once I told him what had been going on with the projector, his response was immediate. He said they'd ship me the new one two day air when they got mine. I had over 500 hours on the bulb, so I'm thinking I'll get a new one.

Although I'm not happy with the problem, so far the reaction to it has been excellent by Optoma.

Joe,

You could have gotten an advance replacement with the H79. They would have sent a new one to you 2nd day, then you return the old one for credit. Then you're not without a pj:)!!!

I guess I'm not as happy with the service now. Thanks, Dave. (Guess it pays to read the details of the warranty agreement, huh?)

That is a lot to put on a charge card. I would go with the 2 day shipping from them but I would send my unit in next day shipping...

Just so you know Optoma had swapped my H78dc3 the same way, advance shipped a replacement, with a charge hold full amount, sent a call tag with a prepaid label return.

Not a big deal and was happy to see them offer that to us 78 guys as well...great turnaround no issues now.

I don't see the big deal there since you essentially buy 2 and return one :)

They don't advertise this service for the whole line, but they also did it for my friend who bought one of their EZpro739 models...very friendly effective exchange. you just have to ask.

TJ

So how do you h79 guys know when you get a new bulp that it's hand picked for 1000 lumens? I'm thinking of buying an extra bulb for my H78, might as well get a bulb intended for a h79. 200 lumens in eco mode is a big difference.

The bulbs for the H77, H78 and H79 are all the same.

Scott

Then how does the h79 have 1000 lumens in eco mode and the H78 has 800 lumens in eco mode? I know they are the same bulb but the H79 are "hand picked".

Then how does the h79 have 1000 lumens in eco mode and the H78 has 800 lumens in eco mode?.


Marketing.

Either that or they intentionally cut down the voltage slightly to the lamp:rolleyes:??? All in all for marketing though.

I don't really get it either, but from the two I compared there's definitely a difference:confused:

I don't really get it either, but from the two I compared there's definitely a difference:confused:It was coincidence. I doubt if a replacement lamp box exists that says either H78 or H79 on the box. I bet they ALL say H77. Now why would they create a H77 box with secret markings to indicate if it was had picked or not. I don't buy it. I believe scotty has it right.

So when are most changing the lamp out? I plan to get an extra one soon for just in case. I heard there can be a significant drop off after 500 hours or so. I am only at around 300 but I would like to think I could get to 1000 before changing the bulb. Does anyone have a special number as to when it is time to put in a new one? Thanks...

Then how does the h79 have 1000 lumens in eco mode and the H78 has 800 lumens in eco mode? I know they are the same bulb but the H79 are "hand picked".

Not sure but whenever I want to do an H-78/79 shootout...I just toggle the 78 back and forth from high to low power mode ;)

Hey, maybe that's the way they come from the factory:rolleyes:?!?!?! The so called H79 comes with bright mode ON and the H78DC3 comes with it OFF, hehehehe:D!!!

Keep in mind that with the advance replacement, Optoma will charge your credit card the amount you paid for your PJ orginally + shipping! It also took them 30 days to credit my card back. I wasn't expecting them to actually put the charge on my card - thought it was for insurance if I did not cross ship the PJ back.

Suddenly, I'm not getting notification of responses on some of the threads I'm subscribed to - such as this one. Anyone having a similar problem?

Optoma already charged my card. Not a big deal, but I thought I'd have the PJ back today (Monday), and it didn't arrive. If it doesn't come in the next two days, my plans for some out of town friends will be squashed, and the whole thing will have been a waste of time (and credit card charge).

Man, am I ever going blind trying to see this tiny 30" LCD screen in my livingroom. And having a 109" Firehawk sitting just behind it is a cruel reminder of what I'm missing. Sometimes life is just too painful to bear.

I would be calling them to make sure it shipped...

I would be calling them to make sure it shipped...

I got the replacement projector Tuesday, with a new bulb. I'll have to wait to see how long it takes Optoma to credit my card, but I'm pretty pleased with the way this all played out. So far, so good, and I'm delighted with how quickly Optoma responded to my problem.

Great, congrats on getting your replacement! Let us know how it works out with them putting the credit back on your card. You never know, we may need this service in the future...

I got an email from a guy in tech spt and said that it takes 48-72 hours for the credit to go thru.

I got an email from a guy in tech spt and said that it takes 48-72 hours for the credit to go thru.

Another chapter in the Optoma H79 tale. Optoma was very prompt in crediting back my charge card. I'm pleased with how well they've responded to my problems. However, I am getting another red LED warning light on the new replacement and the projector has failed to fire up on three separate occasions. This from a cold start - with the projector off overnight and then failing to fire up. It has come on in each instance, if I waited for a while tried again. I've just contacted Optoma again.

Dave, on the replacements, does Optoma send the new PJ with UPS return shipment fee prepaid? Can I just put it in the box when I get a new one and ship it back to them?

No, you pay for return shipping. You should put it back into it's original box because it has the serial number on it. Keep the box for the new one in case that has to go back or you sell it.

"It has come on in each instance, if I waited for a while tried again. I've just contacted Optoma again."

Just a guess but are you shutting down and also turning off the power switch on the PJ? If so try just using the remote to power off and on. The standby mode sends a small amount of electro to the PJ, maybe this one wants to be warm.

"It has come on in each instance, if I waited for a while tried again. I've just contacted Optoma again."

Just a guess but are you shutting down and also turning off the power switch on the PJ? If so try just using the remote to power off and on. The standby mode sends a small amount of electro to the PJ, maybe this one wants to be warm.

No, I'm using a Harmony remote - don't touch the power button. It's exactly the same arrangement I had with the other PJ and I never had this happen before.

BTW, I was very pleasantly surprised to get a phone call from Optoma tech support (Jeff Davis) just a couple of hours after I e-mailed. He said they would have trouble getting a PJ out soon because of the holidays, but he thought we should try swapping out the lamp, so they're cross shipping one to me by Friday. This is better tech support than I ever remember getting from another consumer electronics company.

Guitarman,

Thank you so much for your post. My Toshiba motherboard crapped the bed last week and I was agonizing over what PJ I should replace it with. I was thinking the H79 would simply hold me over until the 1080p or 3 chip DLP pricing settled down next year. I bought a Denon 5910 after reading up on the Teranex Realta processor so I could buy a less expensive pj with lesser performing scaling sftwr. I went through the AVIA DVD and made preliminary adjustments then input your service menu settings then played Incredibles. WOW!!!! I was blown away by the image clarity, depth, and detail. Even in very fast moving scenes it just blew me away. For the first time, I noticed the grid pattern on the sketch pad in the Temple scene in Fifth Element. The sharp yet soft and filmlike images were outstanding and the colors though strong were perfect! Then I watched Tears oif the Sun and the yellow fruit the native was eating in a dark scene jumped off the screen like it was illuminated from within. The beads of sweat on the faces in the jungles scenes were so clear I thought they'd drip onto the floor of my room. I did not think a picture like this was possible with a single chip DLP. Feeding this pj a 720p signal from the Denon gives me a better picture than even 3 chip DLPs I've seen in high end stores like Harvey. I am very, very happy with the bang for the buck combo. I previously had a Camelot Roundtable DVD player which was very expensive and state of the art 4 years ago. The Denon I bought for $2800 on Audiogon and the PJ bought on Videogon was $4700 delivereed with a spare lamp included. So for $7500 I have a setup which, in my opinion, beats any $14,000 DLP PJ I've yet seen!
Thank you so much again for your posts. It helped sway me to buy the H79 and the settings you posted allowed me to extract the best possible picture from the projector. :) :) :)

Glad you're happy with the H79. It sure does have plenty of punch. It's got brightness contrast blacks and who ever has worked out the color palate did an excellent job. I think it was this person from Coretronics TzungILin. We should be thanking him :)

There's a ton of knowledgeable people here that own and love the H79. The author of your Avia disc for one. Most of us come from the HT1000 group. Glad the numbers worked out.
enjoy

I love my H79 as well...

Tom,

I moved my H79 mount back a bit to fill my 82" screen last night and input your suggested settings while set on RCA input. My cable box does not recognize HDCP compatibility, it's a software issue Time Warner's working on. I appear to have lost the nice luminescent picture I had on my DVDs, run from my Denon 5910 at 720p throught the HDMI input. :( I had previously inout your suggested settings while in DVD playback mode in HDMI. I input the listed Hi Def settings and it appeared to change my DVD picture. Does the proj save settings automatically by input?

Thanks again for any help you can offer...

Bob

Which screen do you guys find the best for this projector? I scanned through as many pages as I could and didnt see any posts on it. My room would have slight ambient light in daytime viewing.

Firehawk. I love my 110".

H79 Problems with lamp failure on start up.

I've had an H79 since last March. Optoma still has not figured out the problem from what I can tell from the posts here.

If I shut down my unit with the remote and leave the projector in stand-by mode, 90% of the time it will not power up again with the remote, it will show bulb failure.

However this is not correct. If you power down the PJ with the main switch or pull the plug, upon re-powering, the unit will start up every time.

My suspicion is that the units power supply is susceptible to power line distortion when sitting idle in stand-by. That glitch does something to the processor or the interface to the bulb power up circuitry that causes the unit to fail on start up.

I turn the main power switch off after the cool down and have no problems. I'm almost sure if I return the PJ for service they won't find anything wrong.

Any thoughts out there from those experiencing similar problems...?

I'm an interesting test case because the electric utility that serves me uses power line carrier to read the electric meter every night. The power line is distorted at the zero crossover of the sine wave to create the data bits for communication. This distortion is very evident when looking at the sine wave on a scope. I asked the utility to suspend reading my meter for a few days, and guess what, when they did and I left my PJ in standby, the unit started every time. Turn the meter reading back on and the PJ will not fire up from standby. So this bit of info might help Optoma figure out their problem.

All these lamp problems worry me. The projector will be here in about two weeks. I sure hope there won't be any problems like these. I have a net filter to which I will have the H79 connected. This filter will make sure the power is clean and steady at least. Maybe it's a US 110W problem specifically? Haven't heard of lamp failures on european (230W) forums?

Firehawk. I love my 110".

Ditto. Mine is a Firehawk 109" and the image is viewable with the lights on - certainly not as good as when I have the lights off, but not completely washed out, either. My room is normally very tightly light controlled, but when the lights do go up, the Firehawk is really good at rejecting ambient light.

My H79 is now 29 days old and lamp has now 195hours, no issues here so far and i am living in Finland so we have 230V here.

Today i have burned 12hours while playing with X360 from 08 AM-08 PM and if there is a time when i am not watching anything for a hour or two i do not turn of the projector.

Waiting to see what happens when hours get closer to 300h, the lamp has a waranty on 300hours/3months.

Tom,

I moved my H79 mount back a bit to fill my 82" screen last night and input your suggested settings while set on RCA input. My cable box does not recognize HDCP compatibility, it's a software issue Time Warner's working on. I appear to have lost the nice luminescent picture I had on my DVDs, run from my Denon 5910 at 720p throught the HDMI input. :( I had previously inout your suggested settings while in DVD playback mode in HDMI. I input the listed Hi Def settings and it appeared to change my DVD picture. Does the proj save settings automatically by input?

Thanks again for any help you can offer...

Bob

Over DVI the projector only remembers one setting. Over component it will remember or alow several saved settings. HD/720p/480i etc.

My H79 is now 29 days old and lamp has now 195hours, no issues here so far and i am living in Finland so we have 230V here.

Today i have burned 12hours while playing with X360 from 08 AM-08 PM and if there is a time when i am not watching anything for a hour or two i do not turn of the projector.

Waiting to see what happens when hours get closer to 300h, the lamp has a waranty on 300hours/3months.

Nice to hear that vern, maybe the euroean H79 is improved :D ;) Can't wait to get mine and have a movie marathon. I have been using projectors the same way you do, not turning them on and off too much. How did those X360 games look on the H79 in 720p?

Nice to hear that vern, maybe the euroean H79 is improved :D ;) Can't wait to get mine and have a movie marathon. I have been using projectors the same way you do, not turning them on and off too much. How did those X360 games look on the H79 in 720p?

X360 games are very great looking with this thing :cool: and yes i am using component and output is 720p. I got white walls so picture could be better..

DVDs are played with Pioneer DV-868AVi DVD-player and the picture is ok with hdmi and 720p but compared to WMVHD movies played with X360 those dvds just suck. We dont have HDTV here yet :mad:

I have been playing Xbox360 games on my H79 since the launch. I am extremely happy with the picture quality. Madden, King Kong and Call Of Duty2 have been awesome. And the scary but cool game Condemned has looked great playing at nite in my pitch black theater. I am using the BNC (rca to bnc adaptors) for the 360. And of course at 720p. HD games are not only great for the picture, but also for the bone chilling sound!

Ditto. Mine is a Firehawk 109" and the image is viewable with the lights on - certainly not as good as when I have the lights off, but not completely washed out, either. My room is normally very tightly light controlled, but when the lights do go up, the Firehawk is really good at rejecting ambient light.

Thanks guys, will this be ok at say 144" screen? Or is that pushing it?

Probably much too much is made of it, but one of the issues I read a lot about while surfing the Ruby threads last night is one we H79 owners don't have to worry about at all - it's called misconvergence (or MC). I made this point in another post recently: single chip DLP can't misconverge the red, green and blue pixels because the colors all come from the same mirror in its DMD panel. If you see color fringing in your projector, it's not caused by misconvergence. Three chip designs (including DLP 3-chippers) have to rely on precise overlapping of the three chips' images to prevent MC. If one is not susceptible to rainbows (and generally I'm not, after a time) single chip DLP gives you a tremendously crisp image. For me, that's a great benefit.

I'll be happy with the H79 for quite some time, methinks.

Thanks guys, will this be ok at say 144" screen? Or is that pushing it?

I think that may be pushing it for brightness, from what I've read, but that's only a guess. It's a very bright projector, though. I would have gone bigger, but that was the absolute largest space I had in my house. I'm a big proponent of a BIG screen for a theater-like experience. Pixel structure (screendoor) might be a bigger issue at that size, depending on how close you sit.

I have a 120.5" Vutec Silverstar screen and i am very happy with the size. I based my theater room around that size of screen. It worked out quite well. I see a steller picture from all angles and distances...

Probably much too much is made of it, but one of the issues I read a lot about while surfing the Ruby threads last night is one we H79 owners don't have to worry about at all - it's called misconvergence (or MC). I made this point in another post recently: single chip DLP can't misconverge the red, green and blue pixels because the colors all come from the same mirror in its DMD panel. If you see color fringing in your projector, it's not caused by misconvergence. Three chip designs (including DLP 3-chippers) have to rely on precise overlapping of the three chips' images to prevent MC. If one is not susceptible to rainbows (and generally I'm not, after a time) single chip DLP gives you a tremendously crisp image. For me, that's a great benefit.

I'll be happy with the H79 for quite some time, methinks.


Joe,

I just installed my Ruby a few days ago, which replaced an H79. I have to say mine has slight misconvergence, but I also have to say...............

..........this is the BEST consumer digital projector I have EVER seen or had the pleasure or installing and/or calibrating. Yes, it's THAT good:)!!! Despite any of the slight anomalies that have been hashed and rehashed.

I sat in amazement last night watching the depth of the ESPN SNF game and that was only sourced in 720P:eek:!!! 1080i D-Theater is just jaw dropping 3D!!!

I loved my H79 for what it was and as I have always said, it is the best 1 chip DLP in it's price class, as well as the H78DC3. The same can be said for the VPL-VW100 though for it's price class and those two or three tiers higher. If it's in our budget though, run...don't walk, to your nearest Sony dealer and check this puppy out!!! (Make sure it is set up and calibrated properly before making any snap judgements either, as well as making sure the source is correct)

If I had about $8K to spend on a pj I would choose no other at this point. (Of course if I only had about half that I would get the H79;)!!!)

Happy New Year!!!

Joe,

I just installed my Ruby a few days ago, which replaced an H79. I have to say mine has slight misconvergence, but I also have to say...............

..........this is the BEST consumer digital projector I have EVER seen or had the pleasure or installing and/or calibrating. Yes, it's THAT good:)!!! Despite any of the slight anomalies that have been hashed and rehashed.

I sat in amazement last night watching the depth of the ESPN SNF game and that was only sourced in 720P:eek:!!! 1080i D-Theater is just jaw dropping 3D!!!

I loved my H79 for what it was and as I have always said, it is the best 1 chip DLP in it's price class, as well as the H78DC3. The same can be said for the VPL-VW100 though for it's price class and those two or three tiers higher. If it's in our budget though, run...don't walk, to your nearest Sony dealer and check this puppy out!!! (Make sure it is set up and calibrated properly before making any snap judgements either, as well as making sure the source is correct)

If I had about $8K to spend on a pj I would choose no other at this point. (Of course if I only had about half that I would get the H79;)!!!)

Happy New Year!!!

I know, Dave. That's why I prefaced the remark with "much too much has been made of it." I've read the reviews and if I hadn't sprung for the H79 such a short time ago, I'd probably be jumping at the Ruby. Still, I'm very happy with the H79, and if the Ruby price is any indication, when I'm ready to buy in a couple of years or three, the price/performance will be even more amazing. Add to that one of my students just went to work for Sony as an animator and he told me not to buy any Sony product without talking to him first.

I watched the Rams on SNF last night, too. Today the coach was fired. Kurt Warner, Marshall Faulk, Mike Martz - the glory days of the Rams have evaporated. The franchise crumbled in front of our eyes over the last three years. At least they didn't stink up the place on the last SNF game.

Hello,

I searched the thread but I didn't find a colorfact or otherwise optimized parameter set for PC-DVI on PAL.

If you have something like this please post.

I have some calibration numbers but they are for when an fl-day filter is used. It does give over 2700:1 at D65 though (H78DC2 model, DVI from htpc).

Gary.

Guitarman/Others in the know,

I have my H79 mounted on the ceiling on a standard mount with a pole dropping it to the hieight of the top border of my screen, about 13 inches down from ceiling. The lens ahift only allows the picture to shift up, toward the ceiling and above my screen. If I install a shlef and orient the project on it's feet, can I mount it closer to the ceiling and lens shift it down to line up with the screen?

Thanks,
Bob

Guitarman/Others in the know,

I have my H79 mounted on the ceiling on a standard mount with a pole dropping it to the hieight of the top border of my screen, about 13 inches down from ceiling. The lens ahift only allows the picture to shift up, toward the ceiling and above my screen. If I install a shlef and orient the project on it's feet, can I mount it closer to the ceiling and lens shift it down to line up with the screen?

Thanks,
Bob
That's exactly how I have mine mounted, on a shelf. I don't think that's how most do it, however, and you should be able to mount it on a pole as you have it and still shift it down onto the screen. Something doesn't sound right.

Bob,

I don't think that's gonna work. The lens shift on the Optomas is designed so you can position the lens anywhere within the screen height, but not significantly outside it. You can maybe squeeze out an inch or two with only minor keystoning but not 13, not enough to mount it flush on the ceiling. No offset doesn't make for the most ideal ceiling mountable projector, unless it's a very low ceiling or a very high screen!

Wow, bleary eyed from reading this from the beginning, thanks for all the helpful posts which helped make my buying decision easy.

A couple of questions: I've seen a few posts on folks that have the blinking orange light upon shutdown (after the blue light blinks). Has anyone determined what if any issues this is indicating.? It does not do it every time and it has not seemed to impact performance at all. I'm just worried it is indicating problems to come.

2nd I have an Oppo DVD and DVDO VP30. I want to do all the scaling in my VP30 but can't seem to find away for the Oppo to output at 480i (just 480p) am I missing something?


Thanks for you help.
Robert

Wow, bleary eyed from reading this from the beginning, thanks for all the helpful posts which helped make my buying decision easy.

A couple of questions: I've seen a few posts on folks that have the blinking orange light upon shutdown (after the blue light blinks). Has anyone determined what if any issues this is indicating.? It does not do it every time and it has not seemed to impact performance at all. I'm just worried it is indicating problems to come.

2nd I have an Oppo DVD and DVDO VP30. I want to do all the scaling in my VP30 but can't seem to find away for the Oppo to output at 480i (just 480p) am I missing something?


Thanks for you help.
Robert

I had the orange light blinking issue several times with no problem, either. Then, after some 500 hours of use, my projector went dim (maybe 20-25% of normal brightness) and they swapped it out for me. Don't know what caused it, but it had some other symptoms by then, and they just swapped it. (It had stopped responding to the remote some times and it wouldn't shut down a couple of times. I had to shut it off with the power switch - and then right back on so it could cool.)

The value of the Oppo is as an upconverting DVD player. It doesn't output a superior analog signal, and it won't output a 480i signal through the DVI output.

Hello,

today I noticed an increase of the fan speed after one hour of operation in standard mode. The fan level is somewhere between the bright mode and "normal" fans speed. Some times it changes 3-4 times a minute. Othertimes there is no change in one hour.

In the medium fan mode there is a buzzing sound which irritates me the first time. I thought something rotating touches the case (fan?). Do you hear something similar?

Hello,

today I noticed an increase of the fan speed after one hour of operation in standard mode. The fan level is somewhere between the bright mode and "normal" fans speed. Some times it changes 3-4 times a minute. Othertimes there is no change in one hour.

In the medium fan mode there is a buzzing sound which irritates me the first time. I thought something rotating touches the case (fan?). Do you hear something similar?
I can hear my H78 changing fan speed sometimes just like you described. Occasionally fan speed keeps going up and down several times a minute. I believe it is normal condition.

Also there are some buzzing sound, but i've tested other H7x units too and they all sounded same. Installation position seem to make difference how well you can hear projector from seating position.

Hello, Big,

thanks for your answer. I'm relieved to hear that.

As I sat watching Man On Fire lastnite on HBOHD I could not help but wonder how much better can the newer PJs truly be?

A little help needed here. My H79 is all dialed in and looks great with HDTV or DVDs. Watching some SD channels, I have a 2-pixel wide stripe at the top of the screen. Any ideas how to get rid of this? Details: Comcast Motorola 6412 STB feeding component into a Denon 3806 feeding HDMI into the H79. Thanks in advance! Rob

TV signals video junk on the top use the vertical shift a few numbers. I think it's in the Image area. It's in one of them look around.

If i'm going to be away from the projector for less than an hour I tend to leave it on. What i'm wondering is if using the hide display feature will help with the bulb life at all. Is anyone familiar with how that works?

The bulb is still on and clocking time.

As I sat watching Man On Fire lastnite on HBOHD I could not help but wonder how much better can the newer PJs truly be?

Thats one of the best video DVD's so HD can only look awesome. Very nice red hues to the movie and makes the Optoma colors really shine. I know what you mean how can it be better.

Well I was at the CES show and would say the H81 is twice as good. I know that's going out on a limb but that's the impression I got.

the H81 twice as good? As in 2x? That's a strong statment.
Okay Tom, can you explain the elements that suggest such?
It can't be twice as sharp, so it must be some other areas.

Also, can you quantify what type of sources would see that 2x differential?
Would the improvements be greater on DVD, HD sources, etc?

the H81 twice as good? As in 2x? That's a strong statment.
Okay Tom, can you explain the elements that suggest such?
It can't be twice as sharp, so it must be some other areas.

Also, can you quantify what type of sources would see that 2x differential?
Would the improvements be greater on DVD, HD sources, etc?

Actually, in terms of the number of pixels, it could be twice as sharp, although at normal distances that might be really tough to see. I'd be interested in the other factors as well, like intraframe contrast, color, rainbows (although for me that wouldn't be much of an issue).

It was the sheer on screen power of the machine. High contrast, screaming colors, black/black 3D/outlined detail - intrafield what ever you would want to call it, all that rolled into one. I want one NOW!

I can't count how many viewers went Whoa! It's good alright.

Hello,

when I speak about "twice as good" I personally mean the overall performance. I'm in doubt about that this is possible because there are some negative points also.

1) There is only a 6-segment color wheel.
2) There is no lenshift.
3) The black level should not be better. This is a conclusion of the higher light output.

The phrase "twice as good" is very bold :cool:

The H72 and H81 have seven segment color wheels, end product with Iris can only be better.

Forget the numbers game it looks allot better than what we have now. :)

Tom

Really looking forward to your review of the H81. count me in as suscribed for that one :)

Opinion Need,

Fully light controlled room almost done. 16:9 119" white screen. Screen will be either 1.0 gain or 1.3 gain white unless convinced otherwise.

Watch DVD's and Big XBOX/Video Game Player so image must be bright. Don't have High Def now so not sure.

Seating distance is 13FT.

Is the 78 or 79 bright enough once properly calibrated?

All opinions requested.

Thanks, Dave

David:

In my opinion, that screen is too big at 1/1.3 gain. I think my 110" Firehawk is about the limit. And mine's just for movies, no gaming. This one is the brightest single chip with a nice contrast ratio and good blacks (per my in-home tests of a H77, H79, Marantz S3, Sim 300E, and 7205), but the IF 7205/7210 is better for bigger and bright. You just lose some of the advantages of the H7x. Mainly the H7x is quieter and has better blacks, and a little more contrast ratio. Factor in the H7x's get significantly dimmer after a few hundred hours and I wouldn't be happy with a larger screen. But I dont' do games on it, I'm presuming one would want brighter for such than movies. HTH, Scott

I use my SILVERSTAR 120.5" with the xbox 360 and it is plenty bright for us. Couldn't be more happy. The H79 Vutec combo is terrific for movies and games...

What could cause a new H78 to have loosely spaced vertical bands visible in areas of similar color like the sky? It's connected to a HD source by 25' component cables that give no bands with an H31.

It appears to be related to the lens. As it zooms out the bands almost disappear and zooming in causes the bands to become more obvious and courser.

edit: sending it back :(

Question:

I have a customer with a H79 and he is reporting solarisation / colour banding. (On faces)
Now I know we are still working on 8 bit DVI (with oppo or any other player).

I remember that on H30A one could adjust spoke timing which would affect this or adjust, since I can not see the projector myself.

Guy thinks it is a defect. I saw the machine myself before shipping, was very ok. Can shipping cause anything like this? Or is it customer perception or expectation that makes him see this as a defect.

Anyone tried spoke timing adjustment?
(GSB did :) )
Thanks

Question:

I have a customer with a H79 and he is reporting solarisation / colour banding. (On faces)
N

Anyone tried spoke timing adjustment?
(GSB did :) )
Thanks

I had this exact same issue on my H79 after it had about 70 hours on it. It seemed to be temp related, since it would happen after about 20 mins of run time. An odd thing was that if I switched the PJ into 'brite mode' the problem went away. Switch it back, and it was there again.
After reporting the problem to Optoma, their tech said it was a power supply issue. They swapped it for a brand new one since it's inside of 1 year old. Not had any issues since.

Does anyone know if the "AUTO IN PROGRESS" feature can be turned off? Source Lock does not turn of the feature and every time I press STOP or turn OFF/ON the dvd player the AUTO IN PROGRESS is displayed on the projector and it seems to switch between two different RGB-modes (PC level and Studio level?) This thing force me to press the Resync-button in order to switch to my desired level which is the brighter one of the two. I am using a Denon DVD3910 dvd player via DVI at 720p. Mode is set to enhanced DVI black level on the dvd player. This produces the best picture for me and with less noise.

Any solution for this "problem"?

The 3910 will pass correct black at video level so you don't hv to hit resync to PC level. You should be able to tune the blacks with Avia to lower video noise. After that look over a graysteps pattern to see if there's any color bias to gray. At least in the Optoma's video mode brightness level you can tweak the advanced RGB. In re-sync PC level you can't.

There's no way to stop the fact you have to hit the corresponding remote button for the input you need. Sync lock just help you get there faster.

guitarman,

I have put in your settings that you posted a while back. I must say its an improvement. My question is that if I change the settings in the service panel, should'nt the user RGB be set to flat? Also, do you have a HD setting yet? Are you currently still using the service panel settings that you posted a while back? Finally, I have hooked up a VP30 with your settings and the DVD picture appears washed out with no contrast. Is there something I need to do to get it back to looking stellar?

My DVD is a Denon 2910

guitarman,

I have put in your settings that you posted a while back. I must say its an improvement. My question is that if I change the settings in the service panel, should'nt the user RGB be set to flat? Also, do you have a HD setting yet? Are you currently still using the service panel settings that you posted a while back? Finally, I have hooked up a VP30 with your settings and the DVD picture appears washed out with no contrast. Is there something I need to do to get it back to looking stellar?

There's user RGB changes for 720p DVI

"First Service area

ADC
R gain 188
G gain 191
B gain 187

R offset 43
G offset 54
B offset 46

Picture
Gain R 155
Gain G 139
Gain B 136

Bias R 109
Bias G 113
Bias B 113

Second User area
Cinema
Contrast 9
Brightness -1
Sharp 3
gamma 1

Image mode
White peak zero
CT 2
Image TV

Advanced Adjusments
R contrast 9
G contrast 6
B contrast 2

R brightness -10
G brightness 0
B brightness 0
"

If your HD goes to the DVI input those same numbers should help. That's if you send at 720p. If you see low saturation or wash out with DVD, use Avia with the denon and adjust the blacks and whites.

I think I have analog component HD numbers written around here some where, will post them later.

I'm ready to buy a H79 now but just heard that the H72 will be available in about 2 weeks. Will the H72 give a better picture then the H79? I would like an impression of somebody who have seen both.

I believe the H79 is now discontinued. Just from specs alone and the price, the HD72 is a better performer and a better deal than the H79. (Also, the H79 has a history of reliability problems--i.e. bulb issues).

Does the HD72 have 5000:1 or 3000:1 CR? I thought the 5000:1 was innacurate?

It will certainly be interesting to see how they compare in performance though, since they musy have learnt a lot from the H7* range

Gary

Just from specs alone and the price, the HD72 is a better performer and a better deal than the H79.Depends which spec you are talking about, eg, (from projector central) :

Audible noise : H79 23 dB, HD72 27 dB
Lens shift : H79 Yes, HD72 No
Power focus/zoom : H79 Yes, HD72 No
Zoom ratio: H79 1.35:1, HD72 1.20:1
Colour Wheel: H79 8 segment/5X, HD72 7 segment/4X
Chip: H79 DC3, HD72 DC2
Weight: H79 16.5 lbs, HD72 7 lbs

These specs (and price) suggest these projectors are in different classes.

Oh and what about contrast ratio. This spec, at least when from a manufacturer, is almost meaningless (or do we really believe that full on/off H79: 4500:1 and on H78DC3 is 4000:1 ?).

Brent

I wouldn't trade in my H79 for a HD72...

-We don't know if the H72 bulb live is better.
-I have never seen a forum were people were not complaining about bulb problems with any brand projector.
- How will the de-interlacer perform on this H72?

I'm leaning towards the H79 because of the better enclosure (lesser noise and better quality), better zoom and most probably better de-interlacer.
But picture quality is still a major factor and I think specs do not tell the complete story.
If anybody saw the H72, please could you tell if the picture quality has improvement compared to the H79?

I am very happy with the H79 and if all else fails (incompatible newer pjs for my theater) I have no problem waiting til the newer Optoma (or other more user friendly brands) 1080ps come in 2007. Or even waiting til 3 chip 1080p DLPs are more cost efficient...The H79 is that good...

The H72 didn't have the blacks and pop the H79 has from what I saw. Logic says the H79 will have higher contrast. Similar to the difference between the H77 and H79. I should be getting an H72 in a week or two.

I just pulled the trigger and bought the H79, i got a good price also.
Thanks Toms and other for the feedback. It was not an easy decision since it is still a lot of money knowing that the HD7300 and H72 is out soon.
The HD7300 seems to be real competitor for the H79 but will be more expensive at the beginning anyway and coming from a H30 should give me plenty of improvements I believe.

You will be very happy with the H79!!! Congrats!!!

I just replaced my bulb yesterday on a 79 that has been up since May and it was like getting a new projector. At 600 hours I was starting to have projector envy when my friend hung his Sony Ruby. But now I'm happy again. Guess I need to plan on a couple of bulbs a year. It was amazing how the colors lost their punch as the bulb faded.

I have H79 hooked up to denon per HDMI output on Denon. Dvd player is hooked up to denon per S Video. I can not get video to pass threw denon to H79. I have all inputs in denon menu ok. It works hooking dvd player directly to H79.

Anyone have a Denon 4806 in their system.

I knew my projector was getting dim with just over 300 hours but I had no idea how bad it was till I attempted to have it calibrated. My projector came back with < 1 ft lambert. It pretty much had no brightness. To say i'm disappointed is an understatement. I obviously don't want to have to buy a new bulb in such a short period of time. Since it has been 5 months i'm not sure that Optoma would even cover it.

Welcome to the "Did they say 3000 or 300? Club". Other than that I'm pretty happy overall.

Todd, I did a quick scan of the manual for that unit. On page 98 there is a special advanced setup procedure to configure the HDMI output to convert the svideo signal. Did you follow?

So out of curiosity is there a time frame when most people are switchng their bulbs? Is it near or around 600 hours, 800, 1200? I was curious to see what the majority is doing. Since it was harder to get a bulb (many were sold out), obviously a lot of owners are buying bulbs...

I just pulled the trigger and bought the H79, i got a good price also.
Thanks Toms and other for the feedback. It was not an easy decision since it is still a lot of money knowing that the HD7300 and H72 is out soon.
The HD7300 seems to be real competitor for the H79 but will be more expensive at the beginning anyway and coming from a H30 should give me plenty of improvements I believe.
Vorst, If I may ask, what did you pay for the H79?
Thanks,
Bob

So out of curiosity is there a time frame when most people are switchng their bulbs? Is it near or around 600 hours, 800, 1200? I was curious to see what the majority is doing. Since it was harder to get a bulb (many were sold out), obviously a lot of owners are buying bulbs...

I was expecting at least 1,500 hours lifetime, but already now at less than 400 hours my projector is shutting off with the red "bulb" led on. This happens right after I turn on the projector, so it's not because of heat problems (the projector is free hanging cealing mounted). I need to unplug the projector and after a couple of attempts the projector stays on okay, but the problem is now occuring quite frequently (about 50% of the times I attempt to turn on the projector). I am wondering if this is actually a bulb problem or an issue with an internal sensor within the projector?!?! I am guessing at this stage it is a problem with the projector rather than the bulb... have anyone else experienced this problem??

Thanks, /Lars

I was expecting at least 1,500 hours lifetime, but already now at less than 400 hours my projector is shutting off with the red "bulb" led on. This happens right after I turn on the projector, so it's not because of heat problems (the projector is free hanging cealing mounted). I need to unplug the projector and after a couple of attempts the projector stays on okay, but the problem is now occuring quite frequently (about 50% of the times I attempt to turn on the projector). I am wondering if this is actually a bulb problem or an issue with an internal sensor within the projector?!?! I am guessing at this stage it is a problem with the projector rather than the bulb... have anyone else experienced this problem??

Thanks, /Lars

I had this problem with my pj and they swapped it out for me. I had some other symptoms, too, but the red led and the inability to fire up is exactly what happened to mine. I have had the replacement do the same thing once again already.

I was expecting at least 1,500 hours lifetime, but already now at less than 400 hours my projector is shutting off with the red "bulb" led on. This happens right after I turn on the projector, so it's not because of heat problems (the projector is free hanging cealing mounted). I need to unplug the projector and after a couple of attempts the projector stays on okay, but the problem is now occuring quite frequently (about 50% of the times I attempt to turn on the projector). I am wondering if this is actually a bulb problem or an issue with an internal sensor within the projector?!?! I am guessing at this stage it is a problem with the projector rather than the bulb... have anyone else experienced this problem??

Thanks, /Lars

I'm guessing its a problem with a sensor becuase I only started having this problem once the colder weather set in. It stopped happening once I opened the heat vents int he basement and increased the ambient temperature where the PJ is.

Actually, I dont recall if its NEVER happened since I upped the temp but its definitely happening much much less.

This is an H77 btw.

Optoma apparently updated the website and in the process dropped the link to the H7x universal remote control files. They used to have my files loaded on the US site under the H77, but do not now as far as I see. Back in the bowels of Tom's H77 and H79 review threads these links exist somewhere but people are having a hard time finding them.

I've had several emails lately looking for the files. To try to bulk answer those emails, I'm posting the link to the universal remote files here and in the other big H7x threads (excuse cross posts please for those subscribed to all/many). I created these IR files from the Hex codes supplies to me by Optoma engineering, and some necessary reverse engineering of the stock remote. They are not "learned" IR codes which are unreliable IMO.

NOTE: The link below is to my AV-RS232 site where I have the factory IR files loaded. If you are a AV-IR232 user DO NOT use the files in this link as they are not for a H7x controller, but for direct IR control of a H7x PJ without a AV-RS232.

It's a zip file containing a Home Theater Master .mxd file (for a MX700, MX800/850, MX-3000, etc) and a .ccf file (for Pronto users). The pronto file isn't a pretty graphic, it's just the core files needed with the H7x buttons respective IR Hex codes. I suppose one could use the files as is, but that was not my intention when I made them. These codes just replicate the factory remote. I use a MX-850 now and I can't recommend it enough. That remote combined with these codes is a big improvement over the stock remote. It still does not give the discretes that a AV-RS232 does, but it's a free upgrade (if you have the remote) that is a significant improvement over the stock remote.

http://www.av-rs232.com/factory/h7XfactoryremoteIR.zip

Activity is pretty much gone on my AV-RS232 site. I am about to list my H79 for sale, so with those 2 things, I may be taking down the AV-RS232 site in the future. Point is if you want the remote files linked above, get'em while they are hot and save them.

Cheers,
Scott

I have an H79 but the service menu says H77 at the top. Shouldn't it say H79 or is this a software related issue? Thanks!
DJ

I think they all say H77 in the service menu. Just like Optoma's DLP SVXF tvs say RD (their other model) in the service area...

Thanks!
I figured that was the case. Just checking cause I am having a orange temp light issue and am in the process of an exchange and wanted to make sure.

"I am having a orange temp light issue and am in the process of an exchange and wanted to make sure. "

Process of exchange, interesting I just learned from Optoma that the H79 is covered under hot swap for bulb problems up to one year. I always thought it was 90days like every other projector.

Process of exchange, interesting I just learned from Optoma that the H79 is covered under hot swap for bulb problems up to one year. I always thought it was 90days like every other projector.

Tom, this is great news if it means the multitudes of H79 owners here who have had bad bulbs (going out at 500 hours or less) can get a hot swap. Is this what you're are saying? I'm so lame I haven't called Optoma with my problem yet and now am at home sick with the flu and ain't calling anybody.

BTW my new bulb had lost 10% at 15 hours and now at 60 hours it looks like I'm down to about 30% loss. That's just unacceptable. Other than this I love my H79 but just can't afford to buy 2 or more bulbs per year and shouldn't have to either.

Brent

My new Optoma H79 had a dust blob in the optics (yes I recieved the projector on friday the 13th :eek: ...). It is sent back to the dealer who forwarded it to the service. So it can happen guys.. :( As long as it is 100% when it gets back I'm happy but the waiting is unhuman. Just to make the projector itself a little bit happy after the long and jumpy trip I am going to couple it with a new dvd player, being the Marantz DV-9600.

Tom, this is great news if it means the multitudes of H79 owners here who have had bad bulbs (going out at 500 hours or less) can get a hot swap. Is this what you're are saying? I'm so lame I haven't called Optoma with my problem yet and now am at home sick with the flu and ain't calling anybody.

BTW my new bulb had lost 10% at 15 hours and now at 60 hours it looks like I'm down to about 30% loss. That's just unacceptable. Other than this I love my H79 but just can't afford to buy 2 or more bulbs per year and shouldn't have to either.

Brent


Yep, I was talking to the customer service mgr. Telling him a customer/friend has a dim bulb, very dim and wanted to buy a new one. He said forget the bulb if the PJ has under one years use Optoma will hot swap out the H79, only the H79. Any problems below the first year's ownership, they'll swap it out. Good company and well opposite some of the horror stories I've heard around here with other trade name companies.

Yep, I was talking to the customer service mgr. Telling him a customer/friend has a dim bulb, very dim and wanted to buy a new one. He said forget the bulb if the PJ has under one years use Optoma will hot swap out the H79, only the H79. Any problems below the first year's ownership, they'll swap it out. Good company and well opposite some of the horror stories I've heard around here with other trade name companies.

My experience with Optoma has been very positive. The customer service has probably been the best of any company I've dealt with. I sent an e-mail out one day and got a phone call back within 3 hours or so. Problem resolved.

My experience with Optoma has been very positive. The customer service has probably been the best of any company I've dealt with. I sent an e-mail out one day and got a phone call back within 3 hours or so. Problem resolved.

I have had quite the opposite experience. However I have not been in direct contact with Optoma but through the dealer. And I'm in Europe (Sweden), maybe it's worse here. I had a dust blob in the optics (at least that's what I think it is) which I discovered after about 30-40 hours of usage of the projector. This thing is only noticable up close and only agains dark backgrounds, but it IS a fault and should be dealt with. I contacted the dealer (German dealer but they have a Swedish "deparment" with swedish support). Swedish department takes a few days to come up with what to do with the problem. I send them pictures and so forth. After a few days they send me an email saying the German main dealer will contact me with what to do. A few more days pass, the german guy contact me and tells me the projector will be picked up be the transporter. He also tells me he will send me a new projector as soon as he gets mine. A week later when he recieves my projector he sends an email telling me he cannot send me a new projector since I have 79 hours on the lamp. He sends the projector to the Optoma service in Germany. This was three days ago and not a word has been heard since.

I just sent a long email to Optoma Germany complaing about the lousy support. Maybe it would have been better dealing directly with Optoma but are one not supposed to deal mainly with the dealer if something happens? The Benq-support was better than this, with hotswap 1 year if something happened... I am not happy, although the H79 performed extremely well the few days I had it...

Hi guys . Does screen size have alot to do with how bright the picture is. I put the picture on the wall from 92" diagnal to 120" diagnal and I can not tell the difference. Was thinking about a 110" diagnal firehawk. Will the H79 be bright enough for this?. On another thread they talk about the bulb loseing half its brightness after 50 hours. It kind of bothers Me after spending alot of money on H79.

Hi guys . Does screen size have alot to do with how bright the picture is. I put the picture on the wall from 92" diagnal to 120" diagnal and I can not tell the difference. Was thinking about a 110" diagnal firehawk. Will the H79 be bright enough for this?. On another thread they talk about the bulb loseing half its brightness after 50 hours. It kind of bothers Me after spending alot of money on H79.

I have the H79 with a 109" Firehawk and it is plenty bright. You'll like that combination.

There is a direct relation to screen size vs brightness. Brightness off the screen is measured in FtL and 16 is a common target for that. You calculate teh brightness off the screen by [PJ Lumens] / [Screen Area (ft^2)] * Screen gain = FtL. Bigger screen, less FtL.

I have a 110" firehawk and I like mine fine FWIW.

Scott

I have the H79 with a 109" Firehawk and it is plenty bright. You'll like that combination.

I seconds that! I have a 120" Firehawk with the H79 - a perfect combination. I have over 500h on the bulb and it is plenry bright for me (I don't even use "brite mode"). I do have a fully light controlled room though (no windows).

Regards, /Lars

Guys, I've had terrible customer service w/Optoma----emails & calls many times but no response as of yet. My bulb has only 365 hours on it and it's practically unwatchable.......my first and LAST Optoma product! :mad:

I use a 120" Vutec Silverstar and it is just like watching a HUGE plasma...

Guys, I've had terrible customer service w/Optoma----emails & calls many times but no response as of yet. My bulb has only 365 hours on it and it's practically unwatchable.......my first and LAST Optoma product! :mad:

Must be something wrong... swap it out for a new one (if you have the H79 you can do that as long as it is under a yar old)... For me the Optoma customer service have been great. Just make sure to call instead of relying on the email system which I also had some problems with. I got my 6 months old/500 hours unit changed for a new one due to the "bulb" issue that apparently some of the early versions of H79 is suffering from.

Twice now, my Optoma H79 has mysteriously reset its User Menu Advanced Settings RGB values to some off the wall numbers that destroy the image. Yes, I was in the Service Menu ADC and Picture sections, but not in the Auto Calibrate sections. (I'll double check with the ISF calibrator I hired on this.) We were there to set those values to the numbers at the beginning of this thread.

Anyway, for no reason I can determine, the RGB values blew up, twice. Thought I'd check here before wasting another calibration session. Did I activate the Service Menu self destruct mode?

This is happening for me too. I can't change service menu PICTURE gain settings independeltly from the user menu ADVANCED contrast settings. Changing the service menu values messes up the user menu values and vice versa. Any solution for this? I also tried changing the values before and after pressing the re-sync button but they still don't stick. Dvd player is set to Normal black level.

connection: dvi-dvi 720p
dvd player: denon a1xv (5910)

This is happening for me too. I can't change service menu PICTURE gain settings independeltly from the user menu ADVANCED contrast settings. Changing the service menu values messes up the user menu values and vice versa. Any solution for this? I also tried changing the values before and after pressing the re-sync button but they still don't stick. Dvd player is set to Normal black level.

connection: dvi-dvi 720p
dvd player: denon a1xv (5910)

This issue for me was resolved a long time ago. Some changes made in the Service menu affect User menu areas and vice versa. It's normal. I've PMed you.

This issue for me was resolved a long time ago. Some changes made in the Service menu affect User menu areas and vice versa. It's normal. I've PMed you.

Thanks, good to know this is not a fault or bug at least. I think I will restore my original values and start from scratch. However I do not know how to get the colors right. I think I am too much of a rookie for "advanced" calibration like gray scale/color tuning. Maybe if someone showed me EXACTLY how to do it :D Tom tried to explain the general rule how to apply it but my brain didn't catch on to that. I am at a loss on how to get really good colors out of my H79.

I suggest using Tom's settings that he posted very early in this thread. Than from there you can tweak a little so it better matches your screen. Many others have done this with great success. If you are not sure about the tweaking than (make sure you write down everything you change) and compare his calibration to the factory. You probably will favor his more anyway...

I will try some more tonight and see if I find a setting I like. I did however earlier today come into contact with a guy that can do the D65 calibration. He has all the Colorfacts calibration gadgets and all. And at that, he lives only 10 minutes away from me :D How lucky is that! BUT there is no promise yet, but I am discussing this with him.

I was expecting at least 1,500 hours lifetime, but already now at less than 400 hours my projector is shutting off with the red "bulb" led on. This happens right after I turn on the projector, so it's not because of heat problems (the projector is free hanging cealing mounted). I need to unplug the projector and after a couple of attempts the projector stays on okay, but the problem is now occuring quite frequently (about 50% of the times I attempt to turn on the projector). I am wondering if this is actually a bulb problem or an issue with an internal sensor within the projector?!?! I am guessing at this stage it is a problem with the projector rather than the bulb... have anyone else experienced this problem??

Thanks, /Lars

I'm just starting to experience the flashing red led bulb intermittent problem during power up. Have you or anyone else had any luck in resolving or did you get a complete replacement? Recently installed my Optoma H79 in April. I also use the 12V relay to lower my screen when powering up the Optoma. When the red LED starts flashing during Power Up the 12V relay becomes somewhat intermittent and my screen is going up and down. At this point in time, power
cycling the Optoma seems to cure the problem... but fear this issue may get worse over time. Anyone been able to resolve this intermittent issue?

Tom, this is great news if it means the multitudes of H79 owners here who have had bad bulbs (going out at 500 hours or less) can get a hot swap. Is this what you're are saying? I'm so lame I haven't called Optoma with my problem yet and now am at home sick with the flu and ain't calling anybody.

BTW my new bulb had lost 10% at 15 hours and now at 60 hours it looks like I'm down to about 30% loss. That's just unacceptable. Other than this I love my H79 but just can't afford to buy 2 or more bulbs per year and shouldn't have to either.

Brent

How are you measuring % loss of the bulb? Are you using a light meter or some other tool to measure brightness?

please forgive my ignorance but would the hot swap also apply to the H78dc3

I don't think so. The "Advanced Replacement" option was afforded to the higher end H79 customers as well as an extra year warranty as an added benefit.

It doesn't hurt to ask Optoma for it though. The squeaky wheel gets the grease;)!!!

Thanks for the info Dave

I think I will give a call to find out before i purchase one of these

How are you measuring % loss of the bulb? Are you using a light meter or some other tool to measure brightness?

I'm measuring with a CA813 light meter.

Sorry to hear about your problems. Even though my first bulb went out I have not experienced the flashing LED problem you describe. The bulb in my hot swap unit seems to be doing OK but I haven't cleared 200 hours on it yet. The bulb I referred to in the post you asked about is in the box as a spare with 150 hours on it. I have yet to report in the other thread with daneilo my readings. I have 0hr, 60hr, and 100hr readings but can't remember them now.

It's a real shame how Optoma is brushing this problem off. Real poor business if you ask me. Be persistent in asking for a hot swap. It's a pain but they'll probably eventually give you one.

Brent

Does anyone know if the H79 warranty is transferable? I would be buying one
from the original end user, not a dealer.

Not sure, but couldn't the seller "help you out" if there ever was an issue?

Scott

Not sure, but couldn't the seller "help you out" if there ever was an issue?

Scott
Hi Scott,

In this case the seller is just a company unloading a projector so I don't believe so.
They can't even tell me if the thing is still in the warranty period. I'm assuming it must be since it hasn't been two years yet since the first ones were sold.
But scanning through the thread if it's more than a year old and has some of these
problems ya'll are talking about that scares me a little too since apparently 1 year is the cutoff on getting those taken care of.

It's probably been a year or more since I last posted to this forum and at that time I was griping about the same thing. Which is how vague these manufacturers are about warranty transfer. I don't know if it's changed but back then it wasn't uncommon to get two conflicting answers on this from two different customer service reps working for the same manufacturer.
If that's still the case it's inexcusable. Because the difference between a dead
video projector with warranty and a dead one without warranty can be the difference between something of good value and something that's almost worthless (i.e. not worth the investment of the repair cost).

Thanks for the info

Does anyone know if the H79 warranty is transferable? I would be buying one
from the original end user, not a dealer.
One thing I can tell you is Optoma does require a copy of the invoice showing proof of purchase for warranty returns/repairs. Whether this is a 'hard' requirement in all cases I don't know.

Hello fellow members.
I have damaged one of the screwholes in the buttom of my H79, where the ceilingmount is supposed to be attached. I have required the new parts but I can´t get the hood off, even thoug I have removed all the screws on the chassis. Anyone who can help???
Best regards WRONG :cool:

Bump!

Answered in a PM. Not only the chassis screws, you have to remove -

Fasteners for the VGA input and RS-232 input to remove the Gray input cover.

You have to remove the bulb cover and 3 top screws that are underneath it, also the ribbon connector.

Then you can pry the case up and out from the sides of the projector.

Good luck

Hello, as you he enters in the menu of service?
Sorry for my english
Thank you

Looking from the back of the projector to the front, the four buttons in a row, you hit the left two and the far right one at the same time.
Don't enter the gamma tables area and don't use the auto-cals located in the ADC area.

CW index can be used to better tune contouring.
Grayscale gains and bias can be useful for getting the menu out of the way, plus your using a different section of color control, lower in the chain which could give you more headroom.

Thanks a lot Tom.
You have been very helpfull.
I will get on to the menu issue when time comes around.
Best Regards WRONG :cool:

Hello,I have a H79 and entering in the menu of service appears me as H77,
is this normal?

Thanks again,

Best regard

Yes it is.

Gary

Hello fellas,

I'm curious, are most of you guys happy with your H79's? I've been reading as much as I can, but I can't seem to figure out if the H7x bulb issue is widespread or just talked about a lot on the forum here. Have any of you been able to get over 1500 hours out of a bulb yet?

I'm considering buying a used H79 which is why I'm here... :)

I'm very happy with mine. I'm on my second bulb (400 hours). The first one lasted about 1800 hours or so. No real issues with my H79. SJ

Awesome, thanks for the response.

I actually paid for it yesterday so my H79 is on the way :) I'm happy.

Awesome, thanks for the response.

I actually paid for it yesterday so my H79 is on the way :) I'm happy.

You're going to love it, Jon. Chances are you'll be like the vast majority and not have any significant problems. The picture the H79 throws is really, really good. What strikes me especially is how good the contrast is - the depth of the image is amazing. I started with Guitarman's calibration numbers at the beginning of this thread. Then I tweaked them a little more with a software package called DisplayMate (got a little of the excess green out). Stunning.

Quick question. I have an H77 with 386 hours on the bulb. The last two times I fired it up I get the blinking red lamp light. I have to power it down using the switch and turn it back on. The first time it hapenned twice in a row and the 2nd time just once before it turned on successfully. I assume this is a bulb problem.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Mark

Quick question. I have an H77 with 386 hours on the bulb. The last two times I fired it up I get the blinking red lamp light. I have to power it down using the switch and turn it back on. The first time it hapenned twice in a row and the 2nd time just once before it turned on successfully. I assume this is a bulb problem.

Any thoughts?

Thanks.

Mark

Funny, since I just posted yesterday, I had another failure to ignite. My H79 failed to fire up (blinking red light). I restarted and it came up, only to go down again in a few minutes. Third time and it stayed lit, for the past hour.

This is the same scenario I had before. A new bulb solved the problem for the last few months, but it's returned. This is the third projector and the second bulb swap in a year. I told Optoma tech support the last time that this was it - I'm getting the projector repaired and it's gone.

I guess 1080p is happening a little sooner than I thought. Too bad, too. I love the image this thing throws when it's working. My first DLP was a Sharp 9000. I'm off to take a look at the Sharp 20000 threads and the BenQ 10000 posts, to start.

I have to say again how much I like the H79 picture when the projector works. The calibration numbers I'm using now started with Tom's numbers at the beginning of this thread. I then used a software program called DisplayMate to tweak the image further. I had far too much green in the image after Tom's numbers (on a 109" Firehawk, and going through a Lumagen Vision HDP).

After DisplayMate, I had an image that was breathtaking in its depth. I have some contouring/banding issues on the occasional dark scene, and sometimes noise in dark areas is an issue, but the contrast and pop of the image is stunning. I know it's not altogether accurate, but it's a compromise I've lived with pretty happily for about a year and a half. It's also something I don't want to have to give up. I'm almost certain to go with a DLP projector and I was wondering if there were former H79 owners who have moved on to 1080p projectors and can offer some advice on where to go from here. I love the sharpness, contrast and "pop" of DLP.

Hello,
I am in market for a DLP projector preferably with a DC3 inside. My first choice is a used Optoma H79. HD7100 is not the first choice for me since it is noisier and has a short throw distance. Other ones odd throw angle, don't have a shift lens (such as Mitsubishi HC3100) which i do need or, are more expensive than what my budget allows (such as BenQ PE8720).

If any one here is already looking to sell his H79, be advised i am a potential buyer. Please send me a private message with some description and other helpful information and let me know how much you are willing to sell it for. I followed four recent Ebay auctions for H79s and the auctions ended up for anywhere between $1600 to $2300 perhaps depending on how much of use it has seen. I know if I wait, another one will show up soon but, I am trying here maybe I can get a good deal here on a H79 before the Christmass holidays.

I hope this post is not in conflict with the forum's rules.

Thanks, Ramin

I was in a simliar boat as you - want DLP, lower price, need a zero offset or lens shift to fire ahead. For me it came down to the BenQ PE7700 (it's lamp issues may have been fixed), or a used H79.

Anyhow, videogon might be a good place to watch as well.

There was one for sale in the classified section here. You might be able to post a "wanted" there. Also, I understand Costco was selling them. If there's one near you it might be worth looking into. A no hassle 100% back warranty is a valuable thing when dealing with a projector that a few folks had some trouble with.

There was one for sale in the classified section here. You might be able to post a "wanted" there. Also, I understand Costco was selling them. If there's one near you it might be worth looking into. A no hassle 100% back warranty is a valuable thing when dealing with a projector that a few folks had some trouble with.

Do you still own your H79, or have you moved to something different? I haven't seen an H79 at Costco. The one near me has a couple of Optoma's, but not the H79.

Hi Joe: No, I sold my H79 and got a Infocus 777. I had a "good" H79 though, never had any trouble with it. At one point Costco was selling the H78. I am confident the H78 and 79 are the same box short of marketing. Even *if* the H79's were hand picked bulbs, the point is moot once a bulb replacement is needed. Since the H77 bulb is what they all use :).

That's the bright 3-chipper, isn't it? How do you like it? One of the things I'm afraid I'm going to miss most about the H79 is the brightness. I can't help myself - I like bright.

That's the bright 3-chipper, isn't it? How do you like it? One of the things I'm afraid I'm going to miss most about the H79 is the brightness. I can't help myself - I like bright.It is a 3 chip DLP. I *love* it. I have an ND2 filter on it and I still love it. I have it on a 110" 16x9 right now. It smokes the 7x's (humble subjective input ;)). I had a 77 and sold it for the teeny increase I thought the H79 would give. Got the H79 but still found it just too dim for me. The 777's have the DC3 chipset (3 of them :)) and it is bad to the bone. You think you like bright on the 79, the 777 is about 4 times as bright, but still has excellent black levels. When it was new I think I measured 45 ftL :cool: on a 110. Thus the ND2. Ahhhhh. :D 720 isnt' bothering me one bit. I'll paitently wait until I can have bright before I go higher res. Spoiled now.

It is a 3 chip DLP. I *love* it. I have an ND2 filter on it and I still love it. I have it on a 110" 16x9 right now. It smokes the 7x's (humble subjective input ;)). I had a 77 and sold it for the teeny increase I thought the H79 would give. Got the H79 but still found it just too dim for me. The 777's have the DC3 chipset (3 of them :)) and it is bad to the bone. You think you like bright on the 79, the 777 is about 4 times as bright, but still has excellent black levels. When it was new I think I measured 45 ftL :cool: on a 110. Thus the ND2. Ahhhhh. :D 720 isnt' bothering me one bit. I'll paitently wait until I can have bright before I go higher res. Spoiled now.

Yeah, I read Alan Gouger's thread about going back to 3-chip 720p from, I think, a Ruby. AVS had an open box BenQ W10000, so I'm going to try that out. I'm afraid it's going to be too dim. It may go back.

The 777 sounds like something that might be my cup of tea. I could live with something as bright as the H79, though, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed on the BenQ. If I can get close with a higher gain screen, I'll probably keep it.

Thanks for the replies. The H79 in the classified ads here has already been sold. There are two H78s (recent ads) and one H79 (a one month old ad) in Videogon and i have submittted my offering prices to the sellers. I am waiting for their reply now.

Regards, Ramin

So would you say H79 and H78DC3 are really the same and Optoma only put a new label on H78 and named it H79? Or if there are differences, what are they?

I read in the specifications that H79 is brighter than H78. I wonder how much difference is there? Is it significant? Since they seems almost identical: same chipset, same lamp, same optics, same housing; I wonder where the difference in brightness is coming from?

Ramin

Thanks for the replies. The H79 in the classified ads here has already been sold.


Yeah I kinda bought that one...sorry :o

Yeah I kinda bought that one...sorry :o


How dared you?! :mad:

Just kidding. :rolleyes: :D

haha

(I'm glad you edited that btw....;) )

Can anyone direct me to a supplier of replacement lamps for the H79? BTW, this will be my 4th lamp in 18 months. I have called at least 20 vendors with no luck...

Any help is appreciated...

If you search on Ebay, normally a few show up. I did a search on Google yesterday and i found a couple of internet sellers having this lamp.


Can anyone direct me to a supplier of replacement lamps for the H79? BTW, this will be my 4th lamp in 18 months. I have called at least 20 vendors with no luck...

Any help is appreciated...

So would you say H79 and H78DC3 are really the same and Optoma only put a new label on H78 and named it H79? Or if there are differences, what are they?

I read in the specifications that H79 is brighter than H78. I wonder how much difference is there? Is it significant? Since they seems almost identical: same chipset, same lamp, same optics, same housing; I wonder where the difference in brightness is coming from?

RaminExactly. They both have teh H77 bulb (if you can find them), they both have the same color wheel, they both have the same firmware (still says H77 btw), and they both advertise having the DC3 chipset. Dosen't leave much hugh. Except marketing.

In a thread of happy H78/79 owners, I read that the difference between H79 and 78 is that the parts of H79 are hand-picked! I read even the lamps of the same type vary in brightness. So they basicly mesaure the lamp brighness and those that measure brighter are taken for H79 and the rest remain for H78.

Might be a true story, but i don't know.




Exactly. They both have teh H77 bulb (if you can find them), they both have the same color wheel, they both have the same firmware (still says H77 btw), and they both advertise having the DC3 chipset. Dosen't leave much hugh. Except marketing.

Right from the horses mouth:

http://www.ultimateavmag.com/videoprojectors/805optoma/index5.html

We at Optoma Technology, Inc. enjoyed the thorough review written by Mr. Stone of the Optoma H79, our flagship home theater projector. We're pleased to know that Mr. Stone was able to appreciate results of the investment of time and effort put into the conception and design of the H79 projector.

We are proud of the fact that the H79 is assembled at the factory with key optical components that have been hand-selected to meet a higher quality standard befitting a projector. This allows us to ensure that the brightness, contrast and sharpness of the images meet the specifications that Optoma demands, and also surpasses the quality standards that our component suppliers can guarantee. Some of the key optical components include: the Digital Micromirror Device (DMD), projection lens, prism, light rod, color wheel, condensing lens, UV filter and lamp.

Optoma also provides a "Zero Dead Pixel" guarantee, as well as a one-year advance replacement service as part of our manufacturer's warranty service.

We are confident that your readers and home theater enthusiasts will experience the brilliant performance and exceptional qualities the Optoma H79 provides. Thank you again for the review.

Regards,
Ralph Merrem
Director, Product Management
Optoma Technology, Inc.

Thanks for informing me of Videogon. I got a good deal there on a H78DC3 + a new spare bulb; probably the cheapest deal for a DC3 on the planet at the moment! ;)

It was shipped on Monday and i am eagerly awaiting its arrival.

Ramin


I was in a simliar boat as you - want DLP, lower price, need a zero offset or lens shift to fire ahead. For me it came down to the BenQ PE7700 (it's lamp issues may have been fixed), or a used H79.

Anyhow, videogon might be a good place to watch as well.

Congrats! Now we've really got some new blood in this thread :)

I just got my H79 last night....trust me...you will be very happy...

Can anyone direct me to a supplier of replacement lamps for the H79? BTW, this will be my 4th lamp in 18 months. I have called at least 20 vendors with no luck...

Any help is appreciated...

I bought one from Jason here at AVS. Always check with them first!!

Congrats! Now we've really got some new blood in this thread :)

I just got my H79 last night....trust me...you will be very happy...

Yep no doubt, the H79 still is a Mother beautiful projector, tons of features, enjoy.

Hallo everybody form Milan, Italy.
I'm an italian owner of h79 (pal of course).

I'm trying to connect an Xbox 360 Pal with a vga cable. Changing the dashboard to 1920*1080, my h79 give me a strange signal: "1680*1080" !!!, with side parts of image cropped left and right. It's very strange, because the resulting image is sharp and very good indeed, but lacks about 200 pixels.

Did you notice that ?
Thanks a lot for the answers.

P.s. Guitarman , your 're the Man. In Italy you are considered a "Master of h79", and an authority of calibration of this machine. Thanks to exist!

H78DC3 just arrived. That means only two days in transit!

I am very excited but i have to wait till tonight to watch a movie. I will let you know of my impression tonight

Ramin

Hallo everybody form Milan, Italy.
I'm an italian owner of h79 (pal of course).

I'm trying to connect an Xbox 360 Pal with a vga cable. Changing the dashboard to 1920*1080, my h79 give me a strange signal: "1680*1080" !!!, with side parts of image cropped left and right. It's very strange, because the resulting image is sharp and very good indeed, but lacks about 200 pixels.

Did you notice that ?
Thanks a lot for the answers.

P.s. Guitarman , your 're the Man. In Italy you are considered a "Master of h79", and an authority of calibration of this machine. Thanks to exist!

I can't even get a signal for the 1920x1080 option - gives me an 'out of range' message

Hallo everybody form Milan, Italy.
I'm an italian owner of h79 (pal of course).

I'm trying to connect an Xbox 360 Pal with a vga cable. Changing the dashboard to 1920*1080, my h79 give me a strange signal: "1680*1080" !!!, with side parts of image cropped left and right. It's very strange, because the resulting image is sharp and very good indeed, but lacks about 200 pixels.

Did you notice that ?
Thanks a lot for the answers.

P.s. Guitarman , your 're the Man. In Italy you are considered a "Master of h79", and an authority of calibration of this machine. Thanks to exist!

Thanks, I'll think of my friends in Italy as I drive around California in my Alfa Spider. :)

"resulting image is sharp and very good indeed, but lacks about 200 pixels. "

For now you could use the power zoom to fill the screen back up. Next time I talk to Wing Chung I'll ask what's up with the 360 VGA.

I'm trying to connect an Xbox 360 Pal with a vga cable. Changing the dashboard to 1920*1080, my h79 give me a strange signal: "1680*1080" !!!, with side parts of image cropped left and right. It's very strange, because the resulting image is sharp and very good indeed, but lacks about 200 pixels.
!

Have you poked around in this thread? (it's about Xbox 360 1080p VGA issues)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=743863

Also, is there really any tangible benefit to feeding the H79 1080 instead of 720p? Have you tried 720p? I have no idea how this works, and I don't have a 360, so I'm just thinking aloud for you...

H78DC3 just arrived. That means only two days in transit!

I am very excited but i have to wait till tonight to watch a movie. I will let you know of my impression tonight

Ramin

Congrats on the new purchase. I would recommend adding an extra fan on the outside of the exhaust port ASAP to help pull out hot air away from the bulb. Several H77/78/79 owners, including myself, have had good success with this to prevent premature bulb failures. This is a good projector but I think Optoma sacrificed proper cooling for quiet operation. If you don't add a fan you're just asking for early bulb failure. Do a search for Optoma H79 and fan and you should come across the needed info.

Brent

Can anyone direct me to a supplier of replacement lamps for the H79? BTW, this will be my 4th lamp in 18 months. I have called at least 20 vendors with no luck...

Any help is appreciated...

The part# for the lamp is BL-FU250E. Just do a Internet search (yahoo, google, whatever) and you should get plenty of hits for vendors with lamps in stock.

Do yourself a favor and add a fan like I just suggested to raminolta above. Your experience proves my point.

Brent

I am actually considering adding a fan as you suggest to my H79; I used it desk-mounted the other day to check that it worked, and after turning it off i picked it up to stow it away, and once side was *extremely* hot to the touch. I was quite surprised actually. Is that normal?

I can't even get a signal for the 1920x1080 option - gives me an 'out of range' message

Could my problem be that I am using a 360 VGA lead, and a DVI convertor which then plugs into my 79?

Using a UK model here, which I believe, unlike the US model, doesn't feature VGA inputs - could using this VGA-DVI convertor be what is disallowing me from picking the 1920x1080 resolution?

I am actually considering adding a fan as you suggest to my H79; I used it desk-mounted the other day to check that it worked, and after turning it off i picked it up to stow it away, and once side was *extremely* hot to the touch. I was quite surprised actually. Is that normal?

Yes, they run very hot.

Link for adding a fan thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=669348

That's a good idea. I am thinking to find a quiet 80mm white fan for this. Most of the fans are black while the case is white.

I watched a movie with the H78DC3 last night and it is great. Unfortuantely, i find it not adequately bright to my taste. Even in bright mode, i find the image being dim. My previous projector was bright even in eco mode. I am not surprised since i remember Optoma H76 was also dim. H78 rated at 800lumens whiule the Hitachi i had, was rated at 1200lumens.

Now, i am thinking to get one of the high gain screens. Optoma Graywolf II seems a good inexpensive options with 1.8 gain.

Ramin


Congrats on the new purchase. I would recommend adding an extra fan on the outside of the exhaust port ASAP to help pull out hot air away from the bulb. Several H77/78/79 owners, including myself, have had good success with this to prevent premature bulb failures. This is a good projector but I think Optoma sacrificed proper cooling for quiet operation. If you don't add a fan you're just asking for early bulb failure. Do a search for Optoma H79 and fan and you should come across the needed info.

Brent

Now, i am thinking to get one of the high gain screens. Optoma Graywolf II seems a good inexpensive options with 1.8 gain.

Get a High Power from dalite if you can do a lower mount. You WILL be happy.

Scott

Thanks for the replies regarding the replacement lamp. I did a google search and uncovered at least 25 vendors claiming to have the lamp in stock. When pushed on the issue, every vendor was backordered. Almost every one since 10/16.

Anyone else having a problem? I kind of feel ripped off...I bought this bad boy when it first came out, so I paid premium.

I did call Optoma directly, but got the backorder story...

PM sent!


Thanks for the replies regarding the replacement lamp. I did a google search and uncovered at least 25 vendors claiming to have the lamp in stock. When pushed on the issue, every vendor was backordered. Almost every one since 10/16.

Anyone else having a problem? I kind of feel ripped off...I bought this bad boy when it first came out, so I paid premium.

I did call Optoma directly, but got the backorder story...

Get a High Power from dalite if you can do a lower mount. You WILL be happy.

Scott

I'll second that recommendation!

Brent

I see some sources mention the Da-Lite HP's angle of view is only 30 deg while some others mention 50 deg. I am wondering which one is the case?

Graywolf has a 50 deg angle of view. I think i do need 50 deg! I am wondering how the actual users of Da-Lite HP would describe their imprssion when sitting at 50deg angle?

Thanks, Ramin

Also, is there really any tangible benefit to feeding the H79 1080 instead of 720p? Have you tried 720p? I have no idea how this works, and I don't have a 360, so I'm just thinking aloud for you...


It's clear that Microsoft has some problems with a 1080p output via vga. Also in Italy the Mistubishi Hc 5000 with some models fo 360 does not accept 1080p on vga.

At 720p the image is great, but we know, higher resolution=higher details=more jawbreaking!!!!

Yesterday, i've just tried to connect my htpc (with ati x1800xt) via VGA at 1080p (using power strip) without any problem. In the service menu of h79 i've set the scaler tu "FULL" instead of "Native".

@Guitarman: sorry, but i didn't explain very well the situation. It's my fault.
Because the resolution is 1680*1080, my h79 does not display the 120 pixel at the right side and 120 pixel at the left side. It' a matter of fact that the scaler of my h79 does not recognize coerrectly the input of 360. Anyway the image is better than at 720p.

Byez

I got a good deal on a 52x92 Da-Lite Mdodel C High Power screen and just made the purchase. It will take a while to get here with me though (ground shipping) but i can use my current screen in the meanwhile.

One thing i don't read in the specification is if there is some black-out in the upper part of the screen to lower the viewing area?

I am also not sure if i can use it in my current apartment with hollow ceiling. Can my hollow ceiling hold this screen weighing 50lbs (23kg)?
I need to do a research on this.

Ramin



Get a High Power from dalite if you can do a lower mount. You WILL be happy.

Scott

I got a good deal on a 52x92 Da-Lite Mdodel C High Power screen and just made the purchase. It will take a while to get here with me though (ground shipping) but i can use my current screen in the meanwhile.

One thing i don't read in the specification is if there is some black-out in the upper part of the screen to lower the viewing area?

I am also not sure if i can use it in my current apartment with hollow ceiling. Can my hollow ceiling hold this screen weighing 50lbs (23kg)?
I need to do a research on this.

Ramin



Get a High Power from dalite if you can do a lower mount. You WILL be happy.

Scott

SuppliesUSA has great delivery and decent prices. I only got 450 hours out of my original bulb. About 780 hours on present one and hoping for 2000.

Hello,
After reading praises of the people here about the Da-Lite High Power. when i got a good deal on a used Da-Lite Model C High Power screen, i decided to buy it. It arrived last Thursday. I have not installed it yet but , last night i asked some friends to hold it up while i did a quick test. Here are my surprises!:

I am testing it in my living room (HT room), completely darkened but, with light-color and white painted walls and ceiling. In this environment, I am not able to see any slightest difference in brightness or other aspects from my matte white gain 1.3 screen! Is this normal? I thought i should see a significant difrerence in brightness. I do not even see any reduction in brightness when i move away from the axis of the lens!

So i have got suspicious maybe this is not a high power fabric at all since nowhere on the screen material and the case is written that this is High Power. There is only one label on the case that says 'Da-Lite'!

Now is there any method i can use to test this and make sure this is really a high power screen?! The situation sounds funny but real for me!

Thanks, Ramin

The best way to tell is to move out of the cone. You should see a huge drop in brightness. The HP material is thicker than matte white, also there's a slight silvery sheen texture to the HP surface.