Originally posted by drhollen
... for 480p games, there is no more pixels than 480i.

Excellent post drhollen, you seem to be the only person who has confirmed my observations with similar experimenting on your own.

Thanks so much for the informative post!

I have the XS 55 and the I just got a NS975 DVD player -- I guess I'm confused if I need to change a setting - but I thought that on DVDs that are anamorphic widescreen for 16:9 that there wouldn't be any black bars on the normal screen setting.

So I thought everything would fill in without having to zoom, just like an hd channel.

Is this not correct?

Originally posted by timescaper
I have the XS 55 and the I just got a NS975 DVD player -- I guess I'm confused if I need to change a setting - but I thought that on DVDs that are anamorphic widescreen for 16:9 that there wouldn't be any black bars on the normal screen setting.

So I thought everything would fill in without having to zoom, just like an hd channel.

Is this not correct?
Depends on the movie. If the movie is 1.78:1 (which is the same as 16:9, which is what the aspect ratio of your Sony set) aspect ratio, then yes, the movie will fill out the entire screen. Actually, if it is 1.85:1, it will essentially fill out the entire screen, too. However, if the movie is anything wider, like 2.35:1, then you will still have black bars on the top and bottom. That's because... well... the movie was shot in a film format even wider than your TV.

The Digital Bits has a decent overview of aspect ratios. (http://www.thedigitalbits.com/articles/anamorphic/aspectratios/widescreenorama.html)

-Terry

timescraper to simply answer your question - you must look at the ratio of the DVD you are inquiring about. if it is a 2.35:1 anamorphic DVD, there will still be thin black bars above & below the picture. now an anamorphic DVD at a ratio of 1.85:1 will fill your 55XS perfectly all around. hope this helps out a bit.

enjoy the new set.

P.S. getting my 55XS this week.

Carmine.

has anyone found a compact flash to memory stick adapter?

this way those with compact flash cards can view them on this TV.

My DVD player is connected through HDMI, and the TV optical out is connected to my receiver, however the set will not pass along the dvd audio.

I have to have both a HDMI out and Optical out (to receiver) to get digital sound for dvds.

The TV will output sound through the speakers, and it will pass along audio for digital broadcasts, but not for DVDs -- is this how it's supposed to be?

I tried taking some photos of Grand Turismo 4 via Playstation2 on my 60XS955 but the fast motion and high framerate make it pretty much impossible with my camera.

I got a few good photos that didn't have much motion in them, but they were pretty boring. Below is a link to one of the better ones, but still... not that impressive as seeing it in person.

The game plays in a "1080i mode", but the engine is only 480i/p and the game up-converts it to 1080i. The result looks pretty good albeit with VERY noticeable jaggies. I look forward to REAL 1080i gaming on the next generation of consoles because the selection of HD games on the current consoles is limited.

55XS955 owner here....

can someone post what their tweaks are in the service menu? I have tried UMRs tweaks from the GWIV owners thread, and it didn't seem to be working too well with my set.

I would love to see what other XS owners are using for their tweaks....thanks!

Well, I may have to return my Mits 825 due to a number of issues: wife has a problem with rainbows; the set has the 'bright spot issue'; I'm just not blown away by it's color accuracy (but I'm still got some tweaking to do); the SD pq really sucks (but this is my first RP HDTV and don't know if it's just part of the deal).

The 55XS955 was the other set in strong contention, and before I swap for it, if it comes to that, I have to ask again: 1) how do you hook a PC up to it (i.e. a Mac laptop) because that's one thing the Mits does flawlessly with it's dedicated VGA port and 2) is the SD PQ hideous, too? All things being equal, I'll be braced for the really hard decisions of returning this floor model deal and paying up full retail for the Sony.

I am in the process of returning my Mits 525 for a variety of reasons myself, and stepped up to the plate and bought a 55XS955. I have my figures crossed that after moving over to the "dark side" of the LCD RP camp after being a DLP fanatic, that SD quality would improve.

I was worried myself after returning my Mits after getting quite a deal on it, however, I lucked out and a national retail chain had that set on sale, and the store manager actually was willing to make a deal on top of that.

Originally posted by TxSooner
I am in the process of returning my Mits 525 for a variety of reasons myself, and stepped up to the plate and bought a 55XS955. I have my figures crossed that after moving over to the "dark side" of the LCD RP camp after being a DLP fanatic, that SD quality would improve.

I was worried myself after returning my Mits after getting quite a deal on it, however, I lucked out and a national retail chain had that set on sale, and the store manager actually was willing to make a deal on top of that.

What were the issues you had with the Mits 525? And are you going to plug a PC into the Sony? Please post your experience with the new set if you can...and thanks.

Anyone, esp. you luck 925 owners, have input on PC input, SD PQ compared to DLP, etc?

Folks,

I had all but decided on getting the XBR today until I read the threads and saw some of the problems with dust behind the glare screen.

The XS does not have a screen.

Can anyone point me to a thread or provide information on the major differences between these two sets?

Thanks,
Jack

Any comments on the 55XS955/60XS955 and how good of a PC PQ it can have?

Wondering if anyone can speak of specific examples, such as what video card they're using, whether DVI>HDMI, VGA>Component, or DVI>Compent, and any tweaking involved.

Anyone?

Another request:
can someone post what the dimension of the base of the 55" is. I am seriously considering purchasing one and want to know if I will need a new stand. I know what the dimensions of the full TV are, but cannot find the dimension of the base.

Thanks in advance.

can someone post what the dimension of the base of the 55" is.

Here is a link to the Sony spec for that model. The base looks to be 36 1/4 by about 18 1/2.

http://www.sonystyle.com/intershoproot/eCS/Store/en/documents/specifications/KDF55XS955Cut.pdf

Originally posted by shanewalker
What were the issues you had with the Mits 525? And are you going to plug a PC into the Sony? Please post your experience with the new set if you can...and thanks.

Anyone, esp. you luck 925 owners, have input on PC input, SD PQ compared to DLP, etc?

The problems I had with my Mits were mainly rainbows, fan noise, and very poor SD quality. Both me and my wife started to see rainbows. It wasn't all the time, but it ended up being more than a minor annoyance.

From what I've seen with my brother-in-law's GWIII, the Sony seems to be much kinder to SD without sacrificing HD quality. Hopefully when my 55XS arrives, that will still be the case.

I have no plans on hooking up a PC to it, so PC connectivity didn't factor into my buying decision.

Originally posted by woodydog
Here is a link to the Sony spec for that model. The base looks to be 36 1/4 by about 18 1/2.


Thanks

What color temp are you guys using? I keep going back and forth between warm and neutral, but I can't decide what seems more natural and appealing.

In regards to the video game debate, the picture definitely softens in progressive scan, but there's more detail. Just like some people like to blow out the sharpness to give the illusion of a higher-def picture in movies, you're ultimately losing a lot of information on the games that are designed to run progressive. Very few PS2 games are progressive, but the ones that are, and have denser color saturations in their pallett choices, will show far more richness when the progressive is on. I'm playing a game right now called God of War, and the opening title screen is engulfed in red flames.When it asks to flip on progressive, the upgrade in quality is quite apparant.
One thing with this TV I did notice, especially with Resident Evil 4 on GC, is that you do have to increase the sharpness more than for movies.

Originally posted by bradyk
In regards to the video game debate, the picture definitely softens in progressive scan
It must be my TV settings, I guess, because progressive scan for me (on the gamecube and xbox) results in a sharper image! The picture does soften on my ps2 though.

Originally posted by bradyk
I'm playing a game right now called God of War,

Thanks for your post, and now I'm debating my findings on this issue. I think I just need to tweak the progressive image more and I should be happier.

Not to go OT, but I played the God of War demo and it's an awesome game! :cool: Are you playing the full version? How did you get it? According the EBgames it doesn't come out 'till next month...

This thread is being add to the popular threads post near the top of the forum list.

Does anyone run a Denon 2910 to their XS? I'm planning to play around with AVIA and DVE this week (have been meaning to for weeks but been too busy), and was wondering what settings people generally use.

I'm running my Denon 2910 via HDMI to my 55XS, and just installed the -7 firmware upgrade. It sounds like people are recommending using the power save mode and Pro setting, and Auto 2 settings on the Denon? From there, are there any other tweaks I should consider? Something about IRE to 0 instead of 7.5?

I apologize for asking the question, but I'm just very new to all this, and despite reading lots of posts here for the past 3 months, I still don't have my hands around concepts like interlacing, RGB, chroma, BTB, etc. etc.

Thanks very much in advance.

Is there no one on this forum or thread that has successfully used the XS955 as a computer monitor? I'd really love to hear about the pros/cons/how-tos as I decide whether this TV will serve all the functions I desire...thanks.

Haven't done it but have heard you can run DVI out from your video card to HDMI on the TV. If you don't have DVI from your computer you may be out of luck.

Originally posted by Turd Burglar
Does anyone run a Denon 2910 to their XS? I'm planning to play around with AVIA and DVE this week (have been meaning to for weeks but been too busy), and was wondering what settings people generally use.

I'm running my Denon 2910 via HDMI to my 55XS, and just installed the -7 firmware upgrade. It sounds like people are recommending using the power save mode and Pro setting, and Auto 2 settings on the Denon? From there, are there any other tweaks I should consider? Something about IRE to 0 instead of 7.5?

I apologize for asking the question, but I'm just very new to all this, and despite reading lots of posts here for the past 3 months, I still don't have my hands around concepts like interlacing, RGB, chroma, BTB, etc. etc.

Thanks very much in advance.

I'm running the 3910 to the XS.

so far I have:

XS:
Pro mode
no power save
Black enhancer: meduim
color: medium
(couple more I dont remember...will look tonite)

3910:
IRE 0
M1 tweaks: Contrast =1, Crhoma = 4+, DNR=5+
Auto 2, HDMI YCbRp 1080i

so far, it gives me the best picture.....but still playing with it

Originally posted by shanewalker
Is there no one on this forum or thread that has successfully used the XS955 as a computer monitor? I'd really love to hear about the pros/cons/how-tos as I decide whether this TV will serve all the functions I desire...thanks.

Shane...

I wish I could answer you, but to be honest if serving as a computer monitor is top of your list for TVs, I'm not sure the XS955 sets are your best choice. There are other TVs that have VGA-ins that I would imagine would be better suited for hooking up to a computer.

Anyone...?

Last night my son pointed out a burnt pixel on my 55XS. He noticed it when playing GT4. The only time you can see it is if it is on a black backdrop, the pixel is green. I would have probably never have found it unless it was pointed out me. I looked for it later when viewing the HD Oscars and could not see it with normal TV motion. As far as I know it may have been there all along. Anyone else with a burnt pixel?

Originally posted by JohnA
Haven't done it but have heard you can run DVI out from your video card to HDMI on the TV. If you don't have DVI from your computer you may be out of luck.

Even if you have DVI it may not work.

The DVI out of my Macintosh PowerBook G4 15" could never properly drive the GWIII machines, although it worked fine on a Panasonic RP-LCD.

I did not try advanced screen formatting software (which might work), but I did get confirmation from Magnolia HiFi that their Sony tech rep told them that Sony does not support DVI computer hookups.

Bummer.

There are transcoders that can morph your video card output into component input for a TV. With tweeking, that could worked pretty well, especially if it's just for games.

Ciao...

rclams

Originally posted by ssabripo
I'm running the 3910 to the XS.

so far I have:

XS:
Pro mode
no power save
Black enhancer: meduim
color: medium
(couple more I dont remember...will look tonite)

3910:
IRE 0
M1 tweaks: Contrast =1, Crhoma = 4+, DNR=5+
Auto 2, HDMI YCbRp 1080i

so far, it gives me the best picture.....but still playing with it

Thanks very much - this is helpful!

Actually, DVI should be better than VGA.

If I recall correctly, VGA is still an analog signal, while DVI is digital.

Only once did I connect my PC (via DVI out) to the HDMI port of my 60XS955, to test that the HDMI port was working properly. (I was having issues with a cable box from TWC.) It worked!

I know there is a thread in the HTPC section of the forums here all about using a Sony GW series TV with a PC. When I am feeling a little "richer", I would definitely like to build an HTPC for my Sony.

Originally posted by shanewalker
Is there no one on this forum or thread that has successfully used the XS955 as a computer monitor? I'd really love to hear about the pros/cons/how-tos as I decide whether this TV will serve all the functions I desire...thanks.

DVI -> HDMI works great.

See this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=362324

Originally posted by TheMostToyzWins
DVI -> HDMI works great.

See this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=362324

Thanks. I'm using Macs, but I think there's a new(er) OS X port akin to powerstrip to accomplish the same thing. I'll check it out.

Coincidentally, a fellow who just started today has the XS955 and has hooked up his DVI-equipped Powerbook to it via an HDMI adapter. Seems like it should work. Would be nice to have a VGA port direct, though.

After browsing this forum for some time now, I have pretty much decided on the 60" XS955. Thanks a lot... :)

I was wondering how you guys had yours set up? I think the Sony stand is nice but I don't like the idea of having my components exposed nor do I want wires to be seen in the rear of the set. I would like a home theatre-type cabinet but I am having trouble finding one other than going custom which is more that I feel like spending at this time. If it wasn't for the darn speakers on the side of the set, which really add width to the set, it would be easier to find something.

Can you guys post some pics of your set-ups or direct me to a place to view set-ups? I tried browsing the other sections of this forum but couldn't quite find anything that applied to this set.

Thanks.

BTW, I just read the post regarding which stand to buy but I was more interested in seeing pics and not adding yet another post.

____________________________________________________________ _______
Center Speaker on XS60

I know I was searching around for a place to put my heavy Polk center speaker on my 60XS, and another thread pointed to this Omnimount stand that does the trick nicely, so maybe this will help someone else out with the same question.

I picked it up at Circuit City... price is a tad much for what you get, but construction is good and the speaker feels pretty secure up there. Here's a link:

circuitcity.com/ssm/Omni...roductDetail.do
____________________________________________________________ _______

DaveR,

Thanks much for the post re the Center Speaker. I went to CC Saturday (thanks to your post) and bought the same unit. Then, thanks to your clear photos, I installed it for my Atlantic Technology Center Speaker which weighs in at the max for this mount (30lbs). It's great and solved a big problem for me.

Is there any reason for me to consider a new VCR with my soon to arrive 60XS? We've got more than a few vhs tapes.

Originally posted by Avdad
Is there any reason for me to consider a new VCR with my soon to arrive 60XS? We've got more than a few vhs tapes.
Hmm..instead of spending money on a new VCR, spend it on replacing those VHS tapes with new DVDs. :)

I really want to know how well this worked. the only thing holding me back from the 60xs955 purchase is my in-ability to use it with a computer. ive been considering running from VGA output into the component dongle and into the TV as component, but then was told by ATI that it won't work with the ATI mobility cars (for my laptop)... ok. i can live with that, but what if i build a HTPC with a higher rated ATI card with component or DVI then what are my options. ?

why the hell do the DLP rptv's have pc input that work flawless, and the damn LCD tv's don't.. whats up with that. LCD's should be the ones that come standard with pc input.



Originally posted by PackFan
Actually, DVI should be better than VGA.

If I recall correctly, VGA is still an analog signal, while DVI is digital.

Only once did I connect my PC (via DVI out) to the HDMI port of my 60XS955, to test that the HDMI port was working properly. (I was having issues with a cable box from TWC.) It worked!

I know there is a thread in the HTPC section of the forums here all about using a Sony GW series TV with a PC. When I am feeling a little "richer", I would definitely like to build an HTPC for my Sony.

Originally posted by Liquidous
I really want to know how well this worked. the only thing holding me back from the 60xs955 purchase is my in-ability to use it with a computer. ive been considering running from VGA output into the component dongle and into the TV as component, but then was told by ATI that it won't work with the ATI mobility cars (for my laptop)... ok. i can live with that, but what if i build a HTPC with a higher rated ATI card with component or DVI then what are my options. ?

why the hell do the DLP rptv's have pc input that work flawless, and the damn LCD tv's don't.. whats up with that. LCD's should be the ones that come standard with pc input.

You should really read the thread in the HTPC section about the Grand Wega TV's. You can use the Powerstrip program to set custom resolutions that match the resolution of the TV. I see no reason why this should not work out well using the DVI to HDMI.

Originally posted by Avdad
Is there any reason for me to consider a new VCR with my soon to arrive 60XS? We've got more than a few vhs tapes.

What's a VCR?







:p

Originally posted by Liquidous
I really want to know how well this worked. the only thing holding me back from the 60xs955 purchase is my in-ability to use it with a computer. ive .....
I'm on the same boat trying to use my PC as a media centre and I'm stocked with VGA on my PC and HDMI on my TV!

I loved my XS955 so much that I decided to buy an HTPC. I got a very good deal for an HP MEDIA CENTRE 1080n(the pc sucks, but the price I paid for it was amazing).

My Options are:
1. Buy a Video card with DVI out, and get a DVI to HDMI cable to use my TV as my monitor for Films, Games and browsing.

2. Buy a transcoder to convert VGA to Component

My questions is which one will give me an absolute better quality? and would like to hear from other people with simillar setup.

Thanks.

The DVI-out "should" give you better quality than VGA-to-component.

Check the HTPC section of the forums. You should be able to find some suggestions for a cheap video card with DVI.

Hey guys...

Can anyone point me to a thread on the GIV owner's area that has the best info on navigating the service menu and the values for the proper settings for my XS-55? (or perhaps I overlooked the info on this thread...).

Thank!

-Brady

I don't understand why anyone other than a certified technician would want to go into the service menu with these sets. The number of adjustments in the advanced menu should be adequate for a perfect picture to your liking. If you don't know what you are doing in the service menu it could be disastrous. Any other thoughts?

JohnA

Those who take risk usually get the greatest rewards. I've calibrated several XS models and prefer going into the service menu for the bulk of the adjustments and use the user menu to "fine tune" the picture for each source. It's not a big deal once you've been there.

Mike:D

has anyone ever heard of a computer PCI card that has HDMI? wondering if these cards are coming out so a single cable can run from hdmi output from computer to hdmi input on tv and equipment. if this is the new standard, this would be awesome.

Originally posted by Zues
Consider getting voom or direc tv.... I would get voom, there is really not alot of hd worth watching on direcTv... Satelite is far better than cable..

Bad advice. Voom is about to disappear and DirectTV's HD offering is awful in terms of picture quality and the channel lineup isn't so great either. HD locals can also be a problem.

Originally posted by ADGrant
Bad advice. Voom is about to disappear and DirectTV's HD offering is awful in terms of picture quality and the channel lineup isn't so great either. HD locals can also be a problem.

I am seriously considering going from Dish to digital cable myself. Actually, I like the quality and service I've been getting from Dish for some time. But I am wondering if I can get the same PQ with digital cable (at least not significantly worse) and have the bonus of major networks in HD vs. having to get signals OTA, as I would with D* until they get another satellite in the sky.
The convenience of NOT having to put up an antenna and have everything from one tuner and utilizing a cable card it seems is a big leap in integrating sources.
We are toggling right now between the XS55 and the WF55. I like the additional goodies on the XS, but are not the extra adjustments like gamma still accessible in the service menu?
We like the more refined looks of the WF....the speaker enhancements do me no good functionally and aesthetically are just bling or glitz.

Interested in any suggestions or comments. Have not pulled the trigger yet, but our whole 'viewing environment' is in preparation.

Originally posted by ADGrant
Bad advice. Voom is about to disappear and DirectTV's HD offering is awful in terms of picture quality and the channel lineup isn't so great either. HD locals can also be a problem.

So what do you reccomend? Digital cable?:rolleyes: Would big stores like ultimate electronics and circut city use Directv if there hd pq was awful?

This topic is really for HDTV Programming/Cable Providers, but I would have to agree with ADGrant.

Personally, all of the best HDTV is being offered by the locals, with the exclussion of HBO HDTV, Discovery HD, etc.

Hell, I find the locals sufficient for my HDTV needs...every night I'm too busy watching their HDTV primetime shows (which by the way are nearly all HDTV).

And to say that "cable TV" is bad quality...hahah, I laugh at that. Big time. Obviously depends on the cable provider but I guess someone who's stubborn enough to say something like that...probably is too stubbon to convince otherwise.

Originally posted by Zues
So what do you reccomend? Digital cable?:rolleyes: Would big stores like ultimate electronics and circut city use Directv if there hd pq was awful?
You can only watch HDNet and HD Discovery so many times before it gets real old. And the HD loops they use are equally mind numbing. I was one of those people who was considering the switch from cable TV to DirecTV (primarily for DirecTiVo service) until I viewed the HD local channels on our cable TV system. The NFL playoffs on our HD local channels during January of this year were awesome! :D

Michael

How is the non-hd channels on cable? With directv i have to check sometimes to see if its hd or not...

Originally posted by Zues
So what do you reccomend? Digital cable?:rolleyes: Would big stores like ultimate electronics and circut city use Directv if there hd pq was awful?

I guess they do. The Sony store in Manhattan on 55th and Madison also uses a DirectTV feed. I have spent some time there looking at the Qualia 006 and the GWIV XS and WF sets. The best signal on the 006 was blueray of course but even DVD looked better that DirectTV in HD. DirectTV looked very over compressed. SD channels on DiretTV looked unwatchable.
The same applies to the GWIV sets. SD DirectTV looks almost unwatchable and HD was poor.

As to what I recommend for GW owners, yes Digital cable in my experiance (Time Warner & Cablevision) looks much better than DirectTV on any Grand Wega. SD on cablevision looks crappy too (analog), by Time Warner's SD look pretty decent (for SD).

A co-worker of mine was going to buy an GWIV but changed his mind when he saw an SD feed of DirectTV. I told hime the problem was DirectTV but I don't think he was convinced.

Originally posted by Zues
How is the non-hd channels on cable? With directv i have to check sometimes to see if its hd or not...

You must sit a long way from your TV. As I said in my another post, SD on DirectTV looked bad enough to to change a co-workers mind about buying a Grand Wega.

Originally posted by PackFan
The DVI-out "should" give you better quality than VGA-to-component.

Check the HTPC section of the forums. You should be able to find some suggestions for a cheap video card with DVI.
just a quick follow up for those reading this thread and wanting to know the results.
I got an ATI 9000, PCI graphic card (I only have pci & pci express slots) and a HDMI Cable + a DVI to HDMI adaptor. I was able to get a decent picuture on tv without tweaking(it's not the same as the picture on my monitor).

Now I need a good source to find out how I can customize my pci card with powerstrip for best timing etc. Will keep you posted.

decent picture is what i cringe at. some/most dlps that i have connected my laptop to were just perfect in every sence, no fuzzyness, distortion or anything.. i can't believe these lcd's can't do that.... wtf.

Originally posted by Liquidous
decent picture is what i cringe at. some/most dlps that i have connected my laptop to were just perfect in every sence, no fuzzyness, distortion or anything.. i can't believe these lcd's can't do that.... wtf.

I'm a bit worried about what I'll be sacrificing on the PC input PQ front when they swap my Mits DLP for the 925 this weekend. It's not the central point of usage for the set, but I'm hoping the DVI-to-HDMI hookup still looks good (co-worker has a 925 and said it looked good to him, but first hand is all I trust)... He also said that there's no danger of burnin or damaging the set by way of this PC display usage (sorry, know this has probably been covered many other places, but--), true?

Hoping I'm happy this Saturday, as I'm joining the rank and file of all you Sony owners!

I have a dvd player connected with HDMI which will send audio through the tv speakers - but it will not pass through the TVs optical output -- is there any way to make this happen?

Or Do i have to connect both a HDMI and an optical out of my dvd player?

Originally posted by ssabripo
I'm running the 3910 to the XS.

so far I have:

XS:
Pro mode
no power save
Black enhancer: meduim
color: medium
(couple more I dont remember...will look tonite)

3910:
IRE 0
M1 tweaks: Contrast =1, Crhoma = 4+, DNR=5+
Auto 2, HDMI YCbRp 1080i

so far, it gives me the best picture.....but still playing with it


Ssabripo,

Thanks for these tips - last night I was playing around with my XS and 2910 and did a couple of the tweaks. I ended up putting the XS on powersave and color: medium in pro mode. Cable and DVDs now look awesome, though they looked pretty sweet before with the out of the box settings.

Then I took a stab at tweaking the 2910, and went to Auto 2, HDMI CbRp and 1080i. The biggest difference to me was moving IRE to 0, which made Return of the King look pretty sweet.

I'm going to play around with AVIA and DVE later this week to do some of the other tweaks, but just wanted to thank you for posting your settings.

Originally posted by timescaper
I have a dvd player connected with HDMI which will send audio through the tv speakers - but it will not pass through the TVs optical output -- is there any way to make this happen?

Or Do i have to connect both a HDMI and an optical out of my dvd player?
No, HDMI does not pass an optical signal. You must use your optical out on the DVD player into an A/V receiver. The TV speakers do not pass digital audio it must be done through a receiver.

Sorry, but I thought I saw something about turing off the speakers to let the digital signal pass through. I know that HDMI does not carry optical signal, but it does carry 8 channel digital signal, so he should be able to setup his dvd to send the digital sound through HDMI and then turn of the speakers to allow it to pass through and get it out from the optical out from the TV.

But why would you not just hock up the DVD opt out to an A/V receiver and go through this loop. may be a matter of convenience???I don't know??

Originally posted by ebi2005
he should be able to setup his dvd to send the digital sound through HDMI and then turn of the speakers to allow it to pass through and get it out from the optical out from the TV.

Very common misconception here.

HDMI, while it has the full potential to transmit DD5.1, currently does not. DD5.1 isn't even a standard for HDMI. Either the HDMI of the dvd player isn't transmiting DD5.1 or the HDMI behind the TV isn't accepting DD5.1.

The TV has a DD5.1 decoder, obviously, and will retransmit it out via optical if it receives DD5.1 (either via cable coax or antennae coax) but right now I have not yet seen ANYBODY ever get DD5.1 into the TV using HDMI. Just get yourself a $4 optical cable (S&H included) off of eBay and hook the DVD player to the receiver.

My 55XS955 will arrive this Saturday morning. I only have analog cable right now but will get digital cable from Time Warner in the next couple of weeks. My highest quality source will be my Pioneer 563A for the time being. I recall reading on this forum that the best picture is obtained by using component video cables in 480i and let the Sony handle the up conversion. Does this sound correct?
Thanks
Joeren

Originally posted by joeren
I recall reading on this forum that the best picture is obtained by using component video cables in 480i and let the Sony handle the up conversion. Does this sound correct?
Thanks
Joeren

Joeren...

I have the same DVD player and the 60XS, and I have found the above to be the best setup. You might want to get a Video Essentials or Avia DVD to do fine tuning of your DVD input. Also remember that each input has unique settings, so what changes you make to the DVD input won't effect the other inputs.

If you just want to watch TV, the first thing to do it take the mode off "Vivid" (factor default) and put it on Standard.

Enjoy and congrats on your purchase! Come back and let us know what you think! :)

If you just want to watch TV, the first thing to do it take the mode off "Vivid" (factor default) and put it on Standard.

Or, even better, Pro.

Originally posted by PackFan
Or, even better, Pro.

I have had the 55XS for two weeks, and have not touched the service menu or adjusted the other settings. I have been very happy with just using the PRO video setting.

-steve

Originally posted by PackFan
Or, even better, Pro.

I disagree... Standard is a better place to start and get used to the set. THEN switch to Pro and start tweaking. Pro, out of the box, wasn't quite as thrilling... but once adjusted gives the best picture.

Just my experience...

I used to service TV in the 70s- 80s so I've had some experience adjusting crt sets. Given the differences in fixed pixel displays, the basics still apply. Do the Video Essentials or Avia DVD have specific sections for LCD displays?

Thanks for all of the help
Joeren

Originally posted by joeren
I used to service TV in the 70s- 80s so I've had some experience adjusting crt sets. Given the differences in fixed pixel displays, the basics still apply. Do the Video Essentials or Avia DVD have specific sections for LCD displays?

Thanks for all of the help
Joeren

There is a DVE (Digital) version of Video Essentials available for that purpose. Most adjustments from either conventional disk appears to handle most basic situations regardless of display type.
And is quite basic to setting user controls to reasonable levels for better balanced colors as well as brightness, contrast and shaprness.
Naturally, they all have more advanced adjustments for techs (and others) who get into the service menu.

Originally posted by joeren
Do the Video Essentials or Avia DVD have specific sections for LCD displays?


As you said, the basics apply so most tests would be identical yet some of the tests don't do anything for the LCDs... but I do remember one section on one of the disks (I have both and I forget which one) that displayed full screen pure red, then blue, then green to check for bad pixels on LCD displays. That's all I can think of.

So in the 70s and 80s would you ever have guessed we would be viewing the free OTA HD signals we are getting now?

The color rasters were/are used to adjust the purity of the picture tube. On a poorly adjusted CRT TV, or one that was moved with respect to the earths magnetic field, the raster can be blotchy and can be seen with specific colors.This was adjusted with magnetic rings around the neck of the picture tube for a even color raster . This is why CRT sets have degaussing coils. To neutralize any magnetism on the tube. You are also correct that it's a good way to look for bad pixels.
Joeren

maybe a little off topic but does anyone see prices coming down in next few months - if so for what reasons?

or are these sony's just products that hold their price pretty firm. if you want it, buy it kind of perspective.

The Sonys are selling at BB and CC online for msrp. "Selling" is probably the wrong word because I'm sure they're moving very few at those prices. Once you get 30 days past the Super Bowl those prices should drop. That would be the week after next. In the next few months if there is price pressure from new models Sony may even have to drop prices a little more. Sharp will soon be a new player in the DLP market so that should just add to the fun.

A few months is a good load of time...that's a quarter of a year.

I am sure prices will only go down, if they move in any direction. Reasons are numerous - cheaper manufacturing costs as technology advances (and oh boy does technology advance in microdisplay technology), release of newer/better models not only by Sony but by other companies, the lowering of prices by other companies, etc.

I would predict prices to drop by perhaps $50-200 for the Sony TVs in the upcoming few months. Don't take my word as if they're by analysts from Thomson First Call, though.

Originally posted by woodydog
...I don't believe you can use the TV speakers as a center channel although that would be nice.

That depends upon how brave (or foolhardy) you are. I am using them as center-channel with great results, but you have to open up the back panels and cut into the wiring. It's worth the trip.

I bought my KDF55SX955 from a dealer on line. One heck of a lot cheaper than Best Buy, etc. even with shipping!

I LOVE THIS SET!!!!!

Originally posted by Zues
Yes it is called Screen Door Effect... Like looking through a screendoor...
Call it sse or screendoor, its still the same effect... The bigger the tv the worse it gets...

I think more accurately, the bigger the pixels get, the worse it gets. IOW, a 60" set will have more SDE at the same viewing distance as will a 50" set, assuming the same native rez, because the pixels are larger. But a 1080 set that is 70" will probably have less than a 55" with 720 rez. This is why SDE is lessened on the GW's at 768 compared to 720 sets.

A more important thing is the pixel fill factor. A 80% fill factor will present significantly less SDE than a 50% fill factor, which is why earlier LCDs had more SDE than DLP, which has hitorically had a high fill factor. In the GWIV, fill factor is higher than earlier LCDs, and very comparable to DLP.

Interestingly, fill factor actually goes up for larger pixels, as the technology is based on how practical the thinness of the separation between pixels can physically be manufactured. So a screen that is 10% larger, at the same native rez, will have similar separation between (larger) pixels, meaning higher fill factor and that SDE will be less than 10% more for an equivalent viewing DISTANCE, and actually slightly even less for the equivalent viewing ANGLE on a smaller screen. IOW, big screen = good. :D

But it still makes sense to base your screen size on your viewing distance, and not on what you can afford right now. At these prices, wait until you don't have to settle for a smaller size. Time is on your side, as prices fall, technology gets better, and more HD content becomes available.

I bought my KDF55SX955 from a dealer on line.


Which dealer did you buy from?

ditto which dealer? what did you pay , and were they on time, please provide your total experience with this online seller..

Originally posted by AkaStp
SSE (Silk Screen Effect) is caused by the construction of the anti-glare (lenticular?) screen and has a very fine texture (some say speckley) appearance and is noticeable from normal viewing distances on light coloered backgrounds like light blue sky, snow and ice, etc. It occurs with most all RP TVs with anti-glare screens, including RP LCDs, DLPs and D-ILAs. It probably doesn't get mentioned in professional reviews because it is considered "normal".
SDE (Screen Door Effect) is caused by the very small spacing between the pixels in the LCD panel and has the appearance of a grid pattern and is visible when viewed close up to the screen. It is less of a problem in newer RP LCDs than it used to be. Even DLPs have SDE if you look with your nose pressed to the screen.
It is true that SDE is not normally visible from normal viewing distances and so is not normally a problem. However, what is being discussed here is an effect that looks like SDE and that is visble from normal viewing distances. This may be being mistaken by some of us for SDE when in fact it is some other yet-to-be-determined effect.
Hopefully there are some resident experts that may be able to help us understand what this effect really is if not SDE.

I think there is some confusion about SDE and SSE (I know I find it confusing) but there seems to be even more confusion about SSE itself.

I think we can narrowly define SDE, and the above and other posts do that well.

What I think might be confusing is the SSE descriptions. There are two minor artifacts that I see that fall roughly into what is being described. One of those is a prism/color separation effect that seems to be related to the lenticular screen, and is visible on fields of bright, low-saturated color, like whites and pastels. It sometimes appears as if a fine fog is on the inside of the screen creating a prism effect, although it does not affect detail at all (which of course actual fogging of the screen would). I am pretty sure that this is not SSE, even though it somewhat mimics it because when the camera pans, it becomes more noticeable because it doesn't move.

What is usually described as SSE has that non-moving quality, but is not related to the screen, the pixels, the light engine, or any other technology in the set. Instead it is a digital artifact known as "dirty window" which is similar to mosquito noise but more evenly prevalent and not concentrated around sharp lines, as is mosquito noise. As such, it will be least visible on HD and most visible on SD, especially on poorly-encoded DBS signals. It can be really annoying, and there is not much set manufacturers can do to mitigate it, making all sets virtually equal in this regard.

The important reason to distinguish between all of these is because they relate differently to screen size, native rez, and fill factor, all things that we have control over in buying a set. SSE, being an artifact, is dependent upon the source and transmission path, which we don't have as much control over.

Originally posted by joeren
OK, I'll ask again. Has anyone, does anyone use the "Power Saver" mode on their XS955? Any advantages in picture quality or black detail?
Thanks
Joeren

PQ, no. Black detail, absolutely. The largest flaw of RP is in-cabinet light leak, which raises the absolute black level. In PS mode, there is less light (132w bulb running at the equivalent of 100w), meaning less light leak and significantly better absolute black levels. It is a tradeoff, and what you lose is brightness headroom, but in my experience there is still plenty. It should also extend bulb life and make the fan quieter on occasion.

Also, you can push the gamma corrector to give more perceived brightness without sacrificing black performance or burning your retinas in the process.

My advice to XS owners...the first thing you should do is crank gamma and go into PS mode, permanently.

Originally posted by TomCat
My advice to XS owners...the first thing you should do is crank gamma and go into PS mode, permanently.
I had my 55XS955 ISF calibrated, and I have power saving mode at standard (not low) and gramma and black correctors off (on Pro mode, Color temp. warm.) It looks amazing.

After the calibration, there was a definite lowering of overall light output (which caused eye-strain with the set out of the box.) I guess I would never have known to do that without instruments/experience. But that was in conjunction with a whole range of tweaking, of course.

I think if the set is properly ISF calibrated (with Service Menu tweaks), you won't need any of these User Menu correction circuits engaged.

I suppose it could help the picture out of the box (non-calibrated), though.

-Terry

Originally posted by denverb2b
...Maybe im not understanding right are you guys saying even if im watching say for example PBS and it says 1080 in the display my tv really isnt showing 1080 because its always goes back to its native resolution? If thats what everyone is saying thenwhy is a 1080 display say through antenna or HD sat so much better than 480 or 720.

If im still not makin sense im asking when the source is 480 my tv upconverts it to 720 or its native resolution and when its 1080 it takes it down to its native resolution?

There are four concepts, which can be confusing. The sampling resolution (the resolution the image is acquired in), the transmitted resolution (the resolution it is broadcast in), the display resolution (the native rez of the display), and perceived resolution. To complicate matters, the acquisition rez may differ from the broadcast rez (and usually does), and the perceived rez may not reflect either of these.

Images are usually acquired at 1080p, or scanned from film at 1080p. From this master can be extracted 1080i or 720p for HD OTA broadcast. The first normal, though incorrect, assumption everyone naturally makes (me included) is "Hmmm. 1080i has more pixels, so it must even be a "higher" high definition image than 720p". But due to flaws in interlacing and losses in perceived resolution due to Kell and other factors, this turns out not to be the case.

Your set scales, or reinterpolates the pixel structure as broadcast, to match the native rez of your display. Sometimes, a STB scales the broadcast rez to a different fixed rez, and sometimes your set must again rescale that to the native display rez. Since the perceived rez of 1080i or 720p images typically ranges from 500-700 and rarely approaches 750 even under perfect conditions, these conversions are not destructive and rarely affect PQ even slightly.

For that same reason, a display with a native rez of 720 or 768 does not suffer when rescaling those images. As long as you are not starting out with 480i images, the end result will be much improved over 480i images.

Originally posted by bradyk
What color temp are you guys using? I keep going back and forth between warm and neutral, but I can't decide what seems more natural and appealing.

I always use "cool", which is the way I have always set up displays. I find that if the display is set warmer, that when incoming color phase is off just slightly, images will look either too pink or too green, and having thigs set a bit cooler prevents this. The great thing about the XS is that when you DO set it to cool, you can also turn on "clear white" to bring the bright whites back to a more normal white.

Originally posted by TomCat
I always use "cool", which is the way I have always set up displays. I find that if the display is set warmer, that when incoming color phase is off just slightly, images will look either too pink or too green, and having thigs set a bit cooler prevents this. The great thing about the XS is that when you DO set it to cool, you can also turn on "clear white" to bring the bright whites back to a more normal white.

I'm working on Pro Mode under Warm for movies and cable. The colors just seem much richer. I do have my Xbox running on Vivid and Cool I believe.

TomCat

I'm curious, have you changed anything in the service menu or do you just make changes in the user menu? If you only use the user menu and have your temp set to "cool", you are no way close to ISF standard 6500K. It may produce the type of picture you prefer, but way off from "accurate". I'm not trying to be a video snob, just trying to understand your thought process.

Mike:confused:

Originally posted by TerryJ
I had my 55XS955 ISF calibrated, and I have power saving mode at standard (not low) and gramma and black correctors off (on Pro mode, Color temp. warm.) It looks amazing.

After the calibration, there was a definite lowering of overall light output (which caused eye-strain with the set out of the box.) I guess I would never have known to do that without instruments/experience. But that was in conjunction with a whole range of tweaking, of course.

I think if the set is properly ISF calibrated (with Service Menu tweaks), you won't need any of these User Menu correction circuits engaged.

I suppose it could help the picture out of the box (non-calibrated), though.

-Terry

So do you know what your Service Menu tweaks are that created the desired result? Are you able to express what they are into User Menu settings that approximate what was done (e.g., change to UGAM vs using GC)? If not, then your PS, GC and BC settings are meaningless to those who either don't calibrate or enter the Service Menu. (Unless your advice is to calibrate, which I disagree with)

Heck, I'll argue the opposite of what you're saying - being that if the set is properly adjusted via User Settings, you won't need ISF calibration. Now lets not go down that path because it'll only end with our respective preferences being the truth and ultimate valid answer. Several threads on AVS for this subject will attest to that outcome.

Joeren, to answer your question with my preferences - yes I use PS mode to enhance my viewing experience. I use it together with Pro mode and changed settings for the usual culprits - Picture, Brightness and Sharpness. Finally, I believe Gamma Corrector is critical (see several posts in this thread by search on "Gamma"). I disagree with "cranking" as suggested by Tomcat, but that is my preference. I prefer Med in daylight (along with a slight increase in brightness). At night I drop it down to Low, and decrease brightness slightly.

Originally posted by Big Mike
TomCat.....If you only use the user menu and have your temp set to "cool", you are no way close to ISF standard 6500K.

What is ISF standard 6500K? TC, I can't wait for you're response :)

Originally posted by Big Mike
TomCat

I'm curious, have you changed anything in the service menu or do you just make changes in the user menu? If you only use the user menu and have your temp set to "cool", you are no way close to ISF standard 6500K. It may produce the type of picture you prefer, but way off from "accurate". I'm not trying to be a video snob, just trying to understand your thought process.

Mike:confused:

No, just simply the user "cool". Please don't get me started on what's "accurate". Unlike some I do not lose sleep over whether everything I have conforms to some arbitrary "standard". As someone who was professionally setting up displays since before many posters here were sucking milk, I feel I've probably already forgotten more about calibration than most 2-day seminar "calibrators" have ever learned, anyway. Even at my low IQ, after doing things long enough, something is bound to rub off. At least that's what I keep telling myself.

If what I end up with is "no way close to ISF standard 6500K" then that doesn't say a lot for how important being there is, IMO, and that (as far away from that kind of thinking as possible) is exactly where I'd like to be. Since the ultimate goal of calibration is to get pictures looking their best as far as the viewer is concerned (and I assume NOT to line someone's pockets doing something for 4 bills in 2 hours that the "customer" probably only has been convinced that they need) then only the final result is what's important, and not the path taken getting there, or even some "standard" result. I'll do my own heavy lifting. :D I hope that un-confuses you.

TomCat

Thanks for the clarification. I wasn't implying you were doing something "wrong". Just wanted to know how you set up your display. After doing everything by the book, I go back and fine tune by eye to what I like. Thought I might learn something new.

Thanks, Mike;)

Originally posted by TomCat
No, just simply the user "cool". Please don't get me started on what's "accurate". Unlike some I do not lose sleep over whether everything I have conforms to some arbitrary "standard". As someone who was professionally setting up displays since before many posters here were sucking milk, I feel I've probably already forgotten more about calibration than most 2-day seminar "calibrators" have ever learned, anyway. Even at my low IQ, after doing things long enough, something is bound to rub off. At least that's what I keep telling myself.

If what I end up with is "no way close to ISF standard 6500K" then that doesn't say a lot for how important being there is, IMO, and that (as far away from that kind of thinking as possible) is exactly where I'd like to be. Since the ultimate goal of calibration is to get pictures looking their best as far as the viewer is concerned (and I assume NOT to line someone's pockets doing something for 4 bills in 2 hours that the "customer" probably only has been convinced that they need) then only the final result is what's important, and not the path taken getting there, or even some "standard" result. I'll do my own heavy lifting. :D I hope that un-confuses you.

I hear that. After spending hours working the service menu of a now 5 y/o 36" Wega, and making some significant improvements to geometry, red push, as well as the usual VE and Avia adjustments, I never did more to reach the holy grail 6500K other than think about if it is really worth it.
I even replaced a choke coil on a board to improve the uneven brightness problem in the background, and had the 'tip' published on Keohi's website.
And all those 'warnings' about how I need to go back re-tune my set every 6 mos. to a year, only to find all the adjustments are essentially the same as they were over 3 years ago.

Now, getting ready to make a flat screen purchase I can see myself going through the same processes, and in the end sit there and wonder if I should get a professional cal done while watching in awe as an octopus meanders through a sunken ship on Discovery HD.

Maybe I just need to put on a critically acclaimed DVD and have Joe Kane or George Lucas come over and wack me on the head.

There's been a lot of interesting debate about 480i vs 480p, so maybe someone more in the know can correct me on this: I was under the impression that 480p contained twice the information being outputted. By running a DVD through 480i and allowing the Sony XS to do the upscaling, it simply is missing half the information in the process.

Originally posted by bradyk
There's been a lot of interesting debate about 480i vs 480p, so maybe someone more in the know can correct me on this: I was under the impression that 480p contained twice the information being outputted.

You forgot time in your equation.

Interlaced is 60 half-frames a second, and progressive is 30 full frames a second. Same thing.

Before someone corrects that logic, I was intentionally simplifying the process. ;)

Thanks, DaverJ. That makes complete sense.

Although I still prefer my DVD player doing the work at 480p...

Originally posted by IamtheWolf
So do you know what your Service Menu tweaks are that created the desired result? Are you able to express what they are into User Menu settings that approximate what was done (e.g., change to UGAM vs using GC)? If not, then your PS, GC and BC settings are meaningless to those who either don't calibrate or enter the Service Menu. (Unless your advice is to calibrate, which I disagree with)

Heck, I'll argue the opposite of what you're saying - being that if the set is properly adjusted via User Settings, you won't need ISF calibration. Now lets not go down that path because it'll only end with our respective preferences being the truth and ultimate valid answer. Several threads on AVS for this subject will attest to that outcome.
Being that I am not an ISF Calibration person...I can report that the ISF Calibration person who calibrated my set could not correct the color decoder using the Service Menu tweaks in Advanced Settings of Pro mode (as they did not have enough range of adjustment.) There were some resolution/sharpness tweaks that I know the specific Service Menu settings of (because I was given that information by the calibrator, and have since played with them after the calibration was done) that are also not available in the User Menu. Obviously, other things were calibrated (grayscale tracking, for example) that I don't know of User Menu settings that could fully correct.

However, as we all know, this is my opinon... and my experience is related specifically to my actual set. Any particular set out there might be closer to "calibrated" out of the box. It is my assumption, however, that a majority of these would benefit from calibration. I am aware that that is an assumption.

-Terry

I agree with TomCat. I'm not trying to take the food off of anybody's table but IMHO ISF calibration is not worth the money. I've adjusted hundreds of TV before there was ever an ISF. I know what I see and if I like it. I work with an engineer that is color blind and can't tell the difference between red and green. Would an ISF calibration improve his viewing experience? We each see color with minor differences. No instrument can calibrate for each individual.
Cheers
Joeren

Originally posted by DaverJ
You forgot time in your equation.

Interlaced is 60 half-frames a second, and progressive is 30 full frames a second. Same thing.

Before someone corrects that logic, I was intentionally simplifying the process. ;)

Yes, but that is an assumption. The XS will do 480p at 60fps.

The bottom line is that DVD's are 480i. The XS has a very good scaler and deinterlacer and in most cases will do a better job than a DVD player. But the only way to tell for sure is to us a calibration disk and test it for yourself. Be sure to check for black level (IRE).

Originally posted by joeren
We each see color with minor differences. No instrument can calibrate for each individual.

Could not have been said any better. I bow to you.

As to what TheMostToyzWins said, he is absolutely right. All of the logic that "480p is better than 480i"...OF COURSE that is true but in the case of DVDs, they're encoded in 480i! You can't make make a cake from garbage.

Originally posted by TheMostToyzWins
Yes, but that is an assumption. The XS will do 480p at 60fps.

The bottom line is that DVD's are 480i. The XS has a very good scaler and deinterlacer and in most cases will do a better job than a DVD player. But the only way to tell for sure is to us a calibration disk and test it for yourself. Be sure to check for black level (IRE).

Actually not all DVDs are interlaced contrary to popular belief. Yes all DVDs have two fields but film based DVDs have fields that came from the same instant in time. Because of this they are not 480i! This means that film based DVDs do not have to be deinterlaced in order to display them without the combing affect. If all you generally watch are film based Hollywood movies then you should not be using a deinterlacer at all. You might have to inverse telecine the movie to get a frame rate your display will accept but your Sony TVs deinterlacer will just degrade the picture quality.

Originally posted by mpgxsvcd
Actually not all DVDs are interlaced contrary to popular belief. Yes all DVDs have two fields but film based DVDs have fields that came from the same instant in time. Because of this they are not 480i! This means that film based DVDs do not have to be deinterlaced in order to display them without the combing affect. If all you generally watch are film based Hollywood movies then you should not be using a deinterlacer at all. You might have to inverse telecine the movie to get a frame rate your display will accept but your Sony TVs deinterlacer will just degrade the picture quality.

To help try and clear this up, here are some facts:

DVD fact:
"The DVD Video specification requires that the video be encoded as MPEG-1 or MPEG-2, but MPEG-1 is almost never used for DVD's. The specification also requires that the video be a certain size: for NTSC, such as is used in North America, the frame size (resolution) must be 704x480, 720x480, 352x480 or 352x240 and the frame rate must be 23.976 or 29.97 frames per second.

For PAL video (the European standard) it's 720x576, 704x576, 352x576 or 352x288 at 25fps. "

Film to DVD fact:
Film is made at 24fps, it must go through a process know as 3:2 pull down to convert it to a refresh rate none film projectors can handle (usually some number that is easy to turn into 60, for NTSC.)

The bottom line is that the video MUST be processed before it produces an image on your TV set. The quality of the processor (all of the processing) is what will effect the end result. The best way to figure out what is better is to try it out.

So now the issue is how to get the data from the DVD to the screen. Since none of the STB (not computer) dvd players available today (even DVI and HDMI) output the raw data stream of the DVD, there is some processing being done in the dvd player. Most common DVD players of today have two output options (480i and 480p.) There are upconverting players that will output 720p and 1080i as well. In my experience, testing over a dozen DVD players, the best visual result (again WRT STB DVD players) has been to set them at 480i.

Using my HTPC as a DVD player and outputting 720p to the TV via DVI -> HDMI consistently produces the best results. That said, it is not enough of a difference for most people to notice.

I am looking to purchase a 60XS955 given what seems like a great TV. Any strategy from the pro's , in acquiring this set from Sears, with regards to pricing and delivery? I would prefer B&M since I am finding many online places refusing to take a return. Please post or PM. I am very excited and Thanks ahead of time!

In looking at tv's I was really wanting to go with the samsung hlp5674 as I like the looks of the television and it will probably fit a little better than the 55xs955, but when I went to tweeter to look at the two I was fairly surprised by the picture quality on the samsung. There were many compression artifacts (?) and/or pixelation trailing behind fast moving objects. The same feed on the sony looked far superior with much less distortion of the image. Also, it appeared that the sony had better picture quality for sd and even better black levels than the samsung (despite dlp's supposed inherent advantage with blacks). For this reason my favor has swung towards the sony.

My question is: is this an inherent quality of the tv's, or could the signal input be that different in televisions 10 feet apart? Would tweeter spend time calabrating one to have a better picture to push sales of that model? Has anyone had the opportunity to look at these side by side? I live in a city where I can't see the samsung in any showroom. I realize that this is the sony thread so opinions may be biased towards them, but any objective help from someone having seen and compared these two televisions first hand would be greatly appreciated.

Originally posted by pgause


My question is: is this an inherent quality of the tv's, or could the signal input be that different in televisions 10 feet apart?

I believe that different models of TVs will look better from store to store. With the people coming in and messing with the picture controls (I did when I was looking) plus the unknown quality of the signal at various point in the path... it's just too hard to really judge brands in a b&m store.

With that said, I would say for RPTVs, beyond the DLP vs LCD, the top rated brands are all good choices. Narrow it down to what is important to you- style, inputs. Beware bargains. Go for the biggest screen that will suit your viewing distance.

Good luck!

I have a WE655 series, not an XS, but I think my observations will still be valid. I compared the Samsung and other DLP sets, as well a variety of EDTV plasmas before deciding to go with a Sony LCD RPTV. I think the Sony displays a significantly better SDTV signal than the majority of sets I compared it with. Some of the EDTV plasmas were as good, but none looked better to my eye. HD pictures were all excellent. The Samsungs I looked at all displayed a lower quality SD picture than the Sony with more visible artifacts. HD on all sets was great, but since the majority of my viewing will be SD for some time, the SD picture was important to me.

The Sony LCD RPTVs, in my limited viewing and comparisons, have one of the best SD pictures I've seen.

Just had my 55XS delivered today. I'm still evaluating the set (I am watching LOTR as I write this, looking fabulous by the way), however, I noticed when viewing a SD broadcast in non-streched mode, the lower left hand corner juts out noticibly about 1/4" to 1/2" further than the upper left hand corner. The right hand side is similar, but to much less of a degree.

Has anyone else noticed this before? I think I may have to swap out the set.

Originally posted by pgause
In looking at tv's I was really wanting to go with the samsung hlp5674 as I like the looks of the television and it will probably fit a little better than the 55xs955, but ......

I myself have been looking and discovered this site. I first wanted to go with the Sammy DLP but when I have visited 3 different stores to view them all, I just keep coming back to the Sony 55xs955. I know this is a raging debate DLP vs. LCD vs. LCOS vs. .......???? but this display just looks great in every store I have seen it. SD looks fine to me. The wife and I both said it is not worse than our 12 year old 27inch trinitron. I think the best advice that keeps popping up in the threads for us looking to buy, is that you just have to go with what looks good to you. I do like the JVC d-ila and it being about $1k difference in price is tending to have me lean toward it. It looks the best next to the Sony to me.

But this thread has convinced me that the Sony is the way to go. More ports and adjustments. My first instincts and impressions when looking at all the displays really rang true. The Sony was the first one that stood out no matter how much I wanted the DLP to look better. And today when going back in to look again, it is just the best one to me.

I will let you know when I get it and how it works out.

rjryowit

Pgause, about that distortion you thought you saw on the DLP. Before I bought the 55XS I had a Panny DLP, which I absolutely loved in many regards, but beyond the rainbows that started to become too severe, that dithering you saw became almost as bad of a detractor for me. Most people don't seem to say much about the image breakdown on fast moving objects, but I thought was very severe. I play a lot of video games, and this is where the DLP really started to show problems. Before I made the decision to finally exchanged the Panny for the Sony, I took my game systems in to test on other dlps--just to make sure it wasn't the Panny. Whenever I'd swing the camera or engage in a quick movement to **** the screen image, the entire screen, not just one isolated area, would look as if a splash of green texture had exploded on the screen.

Originally posted by pgause
In looking at tv's I was really wanting to go with the samsung hlp5674 as I like the looks of the television and it will probably fit a little better than the 55xs955, but when I went to tweeter to look at the two I was fairly surprised by the picture quality on the samsung. There were many compression artifacts (?) and/or pixelation trailing behind fast moving objects. The same feed on the sony looked far superior with much less distortion of the image. Also, it appeared that the sony had better picture quality for sd

Based on everything I've read on this forum, SD looks better on the Sony than a DLP. In general I don't think DLP's are very good at displaying SD. It's a shame Sony doesn't make anything with speakers on the bottom. I'll bet they're losing sales because of it. There are people who need that type of RPTV because it saves horizontal space. They would be smart to bring out a 50" set with the features of the XS, but without the side speakers.

Originally posted by woodydog
Based on everything I've read on this forum, SD looks better on the Sony than a DLP. In general I don't think DLP's are very good at displaying SD. It's a shame Sony doesn't make anything with speakers on the bottom. I'll bet they're losing sales because of it. There are people who need that type of RPTV because it saves horizontal space. They would be smart to bring out a 50" set with the features of the XS, but without the side speakers.

The idiot engineers at Sony should have made the speakers removeable. I'd bet that 90% of the people buying that set don't use the speakers as they're using the sets in a home theater setup with a full surround sound system. It's the only thing I dislike about that set. If I buy a 60XS955 I might just take a hack saw to it and cut the suckers off. Actually I'd bet you could figure out a way to remove them without the saw.

Jim

Originally posted by Jim Clark
I'd bet you could figure out a way to remove them without the saw.


Jim...

I doubt it... see attached picture:

Hi gang,

Just got my 55xs955 last weekend, and so far I'm loving it!

I could use your help regarding a couple issues, though.

1. SETTINGS. If it isn't too much hassle, would a few of you who have calibrated your sets using one o' them fancy calibration discs write out what your picture settings are -- the complete list? I'm not looking to tweak anything in the service menu -- JUST the options I can get to in "Pro" mode (or whichever other mode you use). If this info has all been provided before in other threads, can one of you nice folks point me in the right direction? I've done several searches, but all I've found thus far are partial/abbreviated settings lists.

2. TECHNICAL ISSUE. When my screen is on, but the picture is a solid color (usually black), I notice that I have what looks like a faint, cat-paw size "smudge" near the center (but a little to the right and down) of my screen. I've gotten right up next to the screen when it's doing this, and at just a few inches away I can't even see it. But it’s clearly visible (subtle but visible) when I step back from the set. If I had to guess, I'd say it's a spec of dust that's fallen onto the light engine, but again, that's just a guess. Anyone else ever have this issue? Were you able to get it to go away? I did numerous searches on "smudges," and found very little info regarding this problem on Sony sets.

Thanks in advance for the help!

-Greg

Originally posted by Jim Clark
The idiot engineers at Sony should have made the speakers removeable. I'd bet that 90% of the people buying that set don't use the speakers as they're using the sets in a home theater setup with a full surround sound system. It's the only thing I dislike about that set. If I buy a 60XS955 I might just take a hack saw to it and cut the suckers off. Actually I'd bet you could figure out a way to remove them without the saw.

Jim
I agreed with this (and did not use them) until I hooked up HDMI from my STB. That now allows for using them when I don't want to use my AV Receiver. One remote for on/off and vol. Now if I could only get DD5.1 through HDMI and then out from Sony, but thats another story, with several earlier posts.

Hey everyone!
I have had my 55XS955 for a couple weeks and had a quick question for some of you. Do any of you happen to notice vertical banding in your picture? I know about vertical banding from my old Panasonic AE500 days. The Sony doesn't display it nearly as bad as the Pany did, but I can still see it in some of the same spots as I did in the Pany. I don't mean to see it. I just do. Anyone else have this as well? Like I said, it's slight, but there. Thanks all!

Originally posted by Ivarbone
Hi gang,

Just got my 55xs955 last weekend, and so far I'm loving it!


2. TECHNICAL ISSUE. When my screen is on, but the picture is a solid color (usually black), I notice that I have what looks like a faint, cat-paw size "smudge" near the center (but a little to the right and down) of my screen. I've gotten right up next to the screen when it's doing this, and at just a few inches away I can't even see it. But it’s clearly visible (subtle but visible) when I step back from the set. If I had to guess, I'd say it's a spec of dust that's fallen onto the light engine, but again, that's just a guess. Anyone else ever have this issue? Were you able to get it to go away? I did numerous searches on "smudges," and found very little info regarding this problem on Sony sets.

Greg I saw the same thing last month (purchased right before the SuperBowl) and was worried I had a defective screen. It turns out what you are seeing is a reflection of light in the room off the back of the projection lens. Search for my posts begining of Feb and you will see the answer from all the folks in the know....

Originally posted by DaverJ
Jim...

I doubt it... see attached picture:

Didn't realize the trim piece went all the way around like that. Wonder what it would look like with the entire trim piece removed, it looks like the speakers could then be taken off. Hopefull it's not holding other important stuff together and its function is purely cosmetic.

Jim

Well my 55XS955 arrived Saturday at 11am. It was in a un-heated warehouse and truck and was quite cold (Upstate NY) so I had to let it sit for what just seemed like the longest two hours to warm up. First impression: Me "holy %^*# that's big". My wife: "holy @$%* that's big". Hook up was quite easy using component video for my DVD player, s-video for my preamp, composite video from the VCR and analog cable to the RF cable input. One thing that I didn't expect though was getting six HD channels with my standard cable. It must be that Time Warner doesn't encode all of the HD channels in my area. Another reason why I'm surprised is because I have at least one splitter and a ground loop eliminator in the cable signal path. Both inexpensive items. I've read that the "economy" splitters and ground loop isolators will not pass a digital signal. Which leads me to wonder if I replaced these items with high quality, high bandwidth versions would anything improve? I've a lot of setting up to do yet, but have been playing around to get the feel of the menus and controls. I will probably purchase the DVE or Avia disk this week. Thanks for all of the information on this forum link to pic http://www.mybizz.net/~reynold/index.htm

Joeren

After waiting two weeks for delivery to paint and get the basement ready my 60SX was delivered only to find it was defective. Sears will swap this set out tomorrow. I have tried to attach a picture so you can see the screen. After turning the set on the green light blinks for a good minute and then the it displays vertical color bars and will do nothing else.

Has anyone else experienced what I have described?

Have a great day, I will tomorrow,

Norm

"After waiting two weeks for delivery to paint and get the basement ready my 60SX was delivered only to find it was defective. Sears will swap this set out tomorrow. I have tried to attach a picture so you can see the screen. After turning the set on the green light blinks for a good minute and then the it displays vertical color bars and will do nothing else."

Did you cry?

Can anyone who has their TV in a well-lit room with lots of windows - how is the glare on this set?

Thanks!

Originally posted by Rogbib
Can anyone who has their TV in a well-lit room with lots of windows - how is the glare on this set?

Thanks!

The set does glare, but not a reflective window-type glare... more of a fuzzy smeary light reflection. Ambient room light is fine, but direct light sources (lamps, windows on sunny days) next to or behind the viewer will result in a fuzzy reflection.

I don't know a set, especially RPTV, that doesn't have reflection problems though....

Originally posted by Rogbib
Can anyone who has their TV in a well-lit room with lots of windows - how is the glare on this set?Thanks!

That would be me. It sits in a two-story family room facing six windows (3 up, 3 down) to the south. Only the lower 3 have blinds.

Like any other well lit room, the viewing experience is different from that perfect showroom darkness you see at purchase.

For me it has not been an issue (light or glare (if there actually is any)). I make 2 adjustments when watching in light:
1. Increase Brightness (by about 6)
2. Increase Gamma Corrector to Med from Low.

E

Originally posted by Lantano
Greg I saw the same thing last month (purchased right before the SuperBowl) and was worried I had a defective screen. It turns out what you are seeing is a reflection of light in the room off the back of the projection lens. Search for my posts begining of Feb and you will see the answer from all the folks in the know....

Nope, that's not it. :-( I've seen that artifact, too, and assumed it was just one of my overhead lights reflecting off the screen (glad I know what it really is now -- thanks for that!) But this is something different. This looks a lot like a smudge -- as if a cat with an oily paw touched the inside of my screen. Must be pretty rare if no else here has seen the same thing...

-G

not to belabor the "speakers on the side" point but as someone that is seriously considering the sony due to the incredibly sharp picture, knowing I am giving up a little black level and not caring because 70% of what I watch is daytime anyway, but those darn side speakers are a total waste of space. I don't have a lot of room to work with and I could get a 7 inch (or so) bigger screen in the same amount of space. I NEVER will listen to my TV speakers. I don't know why I ever would, my sound system is just to good to leave idle. PLEASE, PLEASE Sony reps, are you out there. Give us a bottom speaker option!

Sincerely yours,
------- Considering aMits

I love the stand in your pic. Who makes it and do you have amodel number?

Thanks

David

dacprio
It a home spun verison of Salamander Designs Synergy triple 20. Here's a link to a BYO stand thread for more info.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=470259&perpage=20&highlight=joeren&pagenumber=21

Cheers
Joeren

Originally posted by rknott
PLEASE, PLEASE Sony reps, are you out there. Give us a bottom speaker option!

Sincerely yours,
------- Considering aMits
Or better yet a NO speaker option!

Sorry to bother everyone again, but does anyone else notice vertical banding on the Sony?

Originally posted by Jim Clark
The idiot engineers at Sony should have made the speakers removeable. I'd bet that 90% of the people buying that set don't use the speakers as they're using the sets in a home theater setup with a full surround sound system. It's the only thing I dislike about that set. If I buy a 60XS955 I might just take a hack saw to it and cut the suckers off. Actually I'd bet you could figure out a way to remove them without the saw.

Jim

QUALIA 006 has removable speakers. Course it costs a little more.

The speaker grills (frame covering the front and surrounding the speakers) is not removable, it is a molded part of the frame.

Originally posted by rknott
not to belabor the "speakers on the side" point but as someone that is seriously considering the sony due to the incredibly sharp picture, knowing I am giving up a little black level and not caring because 70% of what I watch is daytime anyway, but those darn side speakers are a total waste of space. I don't have a lot of room to work with and I could get a 7 inch (or so) bigger screen in the same amount of space........PLEASE, PLEASE Sony reps, are you out there. Give us a bottom speaker option!

Sincerely yours,
------- Considering aMits


According to a Panasonic press release they will bring out three new LCD RPTV with speakers on the bottom in April or May. Their marketing dept. obviously told them to abandon the "silver wing" design of their current models. You would think Sony must be getting the same message. I heard they were having a dealers meeting in Vegas this week so maybe we will find out what their new models will look like.

Originally posted by woodydog
According to a Panasonic press release they will bring out three new LCD RPTV with speakers on the bottom in April or May. Their marketing dept. obviously told them to abandon the "silver wing" design of their current models. You would think Sony must be getting the same message. I heard they were having a dealers meeting in Vegas this week so maybe we will find out what their new models will look like.

WOW, that didn't take long. No sooner do I finish typing.......
SONY LAUNCHES NEW NATIVE 720P AND 3LCD GRAND WEGA MICRO-DISPLAY TELEVISIONS (http://news.sel.sony.com/pressrelease/5686)

So how do these stack up against the XS955 series? My wife's big gripe with our new 55", delivered just 3 DAYS AGO(:o), is the silver speaker 'wings'...mine is the cruddy user interface/menu system (esp. compared to the Mitsubishi NetCommand interface I'd gotten a chance to play with).

30 day return policy in effect. Hmmm...

Thanks for the quick reply. I will check it out!

David

This newbie is having trouble accessing the gamma correction menu. After menuing to Video, Advanced Features, many of the options remain unhighlighted. If I change the input from antenna to DVD I get a few more options but Gamma Correction still does not light up. How in the world do you get to it or is something wrong with the set (KDF60 XS955). Help??:confused:

So Sorry. AkaStp helped me get it right - needed to be in Pro mode. Thanks for all u's guys help espically AkaStp!!:) :) :D

Originally posted by AkaStp
If you want to see a really cruddy user interface/menu system take a look at the JVC D-ILA's. The Sony's is much, much better. My only real gripe with the Sony's menu system would be the difficulty in selecting a specific input. A pick list would be real nice rather than having to step sequentially thru all enabled inputs to get the one you want (and having to repeat the circuit if you miss the one you want).

One of the reasons I love the VL-900 remote is that it lets you jump to a specific input. All you have to do is hold TV/Video and press the number of the input you want to jump to. I don't know why Sony doesn't do that with their regular TV remotes.

I ordered the “Digital Video Essentials” DVD from Amazon the other day. Can anyone give me some feedback, if they have used this disk? I've had my 55XS955 for five days now and love it. We sit about 9.5 feet away and on some scenes I can notice slight SDE but it really is minimal and not an issue.

Cheers
Joeren

Originally posted by joeren
I ordered the “Digital Video Essentials” DVD from Amazon the other day. Can anyone give me some feedback, if they have used this disk? I've had my 55XS955 for five days now and love it. We sit about 9.5 feet away and on some scenes I can notice slight SDE but it really is minimal and not an issue.

Cheers
Joeren
joeren, I actually have had the "DVE" disk for sometime now but have not even brought it out for my 55XS. To my eye the picture is so good with some Pro mode tweaks I don't have any motivation to fool with it. Color rendition is just spectacular and brightness/contrast are adjusted to my liking. Let us know how it goes. John

I just received my copy of "DVE" and when I calibrated my 60xs, I found the set was almost right on the money with the Pro settings.

Originally posted by ellisr63
I just received my copy of "DVE" and when I calibrated my 60xs, I found the set was almost right on the money with the Pro settings.

Hmm...

I calibrated my set with the original VE, and all I ended up tweaking was the color a little bit.

The sharpness adjustment on the original VE does nothing for digital sets. I have heard that DVE has a proper sharpness adjustment for digital sets. It this true? Is it worthwhile just for that if I already have VE?

What do you folks have your sharpness set at?

So the technician came in yesterday with the new lamp unit from Sony for my 55XS. This unit is actually a 'newer' unit since it has an updated model number to the unit (apparently most XS's out there have the older lamp unit, I would assuming all sets with Jan '05 or older have the older lamp) but the technician doesn't really know what has been changed with the new/old lamp units.

Nevertheless, the new lamp goes in, old lamp goes out (which by the way it is INCREDIBLY easy to change the lamp unit...a blind monkey can do it). Result: TV still will not result with a picture. ON green light flashes about 10 times, then the light turns red and that red light flashes. The fan could be heard turning on.

Technician's synopsis: must be the lamp driver that's at fault. The lamp driver looks like a chunky video card with lots of other attachments on it. Can only be accessed by stripping off the entire rear/lower panel from the TV, removing the subwoofer, removing the fan assembly, and then finally you have access to the lamp driver. Technician says the lamp driver is responsible for regulating the lamp electronically and also for regulation of power for the lamp. My old lamp unit does not look broken and I won't be surprised if it isn't because the set is only about 2 months old, but the technician is leaving my old lamp for me to keep ($200-$250 value!) as a spare.

Lo and behold, the lamp driver unit he pulls out is a wrong one for the wrong model (the one he was carrying was for the WE line). The WE's lamp driver unit looks pretty different from the XS unit. Now I must wait another week for the part to come in and for the technician to make another visit. It's been a while now without my XS (about a month) and I'm getting pretty tired of reverting my eyes back to the puny 17" Panasonic CRT.

I am hoping that the lamp driver unit is the problem, because I'm not so hyped in returning this TV for an exchange. The TV is still under the manufacturer's warranty - does anybody know what happens if the TV is not repairable? Is the manufacturer liable for providing me another set? On top of that question is my stupid Best Buy extended warranty which I purchased a month after buying the set - I hope that if Sony replaces my set, my EW is not voided because after all, Best Buy is not the one replacing my set as stated in their EW. That would suck if Sony replaces my set and then BB voids my warranty.

So the saga continues...

Originally posted by ellisr63
I just received my copy of "DVE" and when I calibrated my 60xs, I found the set was almost right on the money with the Pro settings.
Pro mode was close on mine, I ended up changing Picture and Sharpness the most - and I believe Color. I used DVE also.

Originally posted by PackFan
What do you folks have your sharpness set at?
I have it set at min.

From the service manual... (10 blinks of STANDBY or LAMP LED Flashes)

ATSC-OVP error10 times
-No "DTL MODULE 5V " output (G1 board, G2 board)
- No picture/No sound


10 : ATSC-OVP When no "Digital Module 5V" is detected, pin 127 of TV-micro is low and it turns off the main power.

Hey, Tim - thanks for the info!

In the SM is there information on other #'s of LED blinks? I will have to go home and check myself exactly how many times the LED blinks (I never took any notice to actually count the blinks but it was quite a lot).

I am thinking of upgrading my Denon 1600 to a newer unit for use with my 60xs. Any suggestions? I want to spend less than $800 and would like HDMI and Digital Coax.

Here is the page from the SM listing the codes.

Tim

Originally posted by ellisr63
I am thinking of upgrading my Denon 1600 to a newer unit for use with my 60xs. Any suggestions? I want to spend less than $800 and would like HDMI and Digital Coax.
How about the 2910?

Jason

ellisr63 - if you can find one, the 2900 is a terrific match for the GW LCDs. Last Nov/Dec there were 2 threads on the DVD Player forum. umr weighed in heavily with excellent detail and advice. As a result, I got a 2900 instead of the 2910. Just fabulous PQ.

Ray**W, The only thing is the 2900 doesn't have HDMI. I have tried a Samsung and a Toshiba with HDMI and the picture was better in some respects but I was not pleased with menu access and remote. I am hoping to find something that will give me an improvement in picture until HD DVDs are here.
tia,
Ron

<i>The only thing is the 2900 doesn't have HDMI. I have tried a Samsung and a Toshiba with HDMI and the picture was better in some respects </i>

I would not consider that as a meaningful test. Both the TV and player in your example have completely different signal processing than a Sony/Denon 2900 combination.

You might think from first principles that HDMI would be better, but remember that for every question that is an answer that is simple, obvious and wrong. So much depends on the source material (film vs. video), the processing that is done in the player (Silicon Vision vs. Farojda) and the calibration of the set itself that you have to look at it yourself in your own living room with your TV and source material to determine the answer. Quality depends on many, many variables other than just whether the signal is fed over HDMI or composite. Look in the Qualia hread for example - there they are reporting that the best picture results come from just feeding non-progessive 480i to the Qualia and letting the obviously superior upconversion processing of the Qualia do the rest.

In my experience the artifacts that the Farojda introduce while performing the upconversion outweigh any benefits, and the less intrusive conversion of the Silicon Image result in a more natural picture.

YMMV.

Went out and got the 2910. I like the interface better and the picture seems to be better(we will see if it gets better once I calibrate it).

I know you have to disable the set's speakers if you want to use the audio out to a receiver (my Wega XBR250 tube is the same but I can hook the monitor audio outputs and either use the sets speakers or send to my receiver and turn the tv audio volume all the way down) without playing with the menu item that enables /disables the speaker output. Makes it easy for mom when she visits since she knows nothing about the receiver and just has to turn the volume up to hear thru the set's speakers.

What about the optical audio output? When does it get activated? The manual says only for digital sound so does that mean it will only output if you have sound inputting to the set? Seems silly since most people would have those connections go to the receiver unless maybe for HD set top boxes? So if you are watching plain cable, nothing will come out the digital output?


Thanks

Yes, it's kind of silly that most electronics with a digital audio output feed a constant audio signal out even if it is not 5.1. I don't understand Sony's logic, especially with so much variability in HD programming. Really a nuisance if you watch a variety of TV programming, but want to get the best audio when it's available. Should be a no-brainer.

videoaddikt, do you have this set? When will you get a signal from the digital audio out? I don't really care if it's 5.1 or not, I just want to be able to send audio to my receiver without disabling the tv's speakers. Will the regualr cable tv audio get sent to this output all the time as a stero signal?

I have only started playing with this, Phil. But I believe you only get a 5.1 signal out of the optical connector when there is such a signal present.

I also believe it is only the R/L analog audio channels that are affected by whether the internal speakers or off or on, not the optical output.

thanks, if you have a vcr directly connected to the tv or some other non-digital device or just a cable input, let me know if any sounds comes out of the optical output.

all I'm debating now is whether to buy the xs955 now or wait to see what the new 55A20 has as features and price.

Finally pulled the trigger and went with the 55XS955. Couldn't be happier with my decision. I got the TV, stand, and 5 year warranty for $3200, so my wife was pleased too.

The TV is wonderful. I've had the Xbox connected and have played ESPN MLB 2005 and it looks amazing. We also experimented with having a PS2 and Xbox going at the same time using the Twin View feature which was pretty sweet. My ancient DVD player even looked nice. I'm thinking about going with an up-converting DVD player now though (any suggestions for a player that's around the $200 range?) I believe I read that there may be issues with Sony's up-converting player (DVP-NS975V I believe) and this TV, is this true? Or would it be better to get a decent progressive scan DVD player and wait for BR/HD-DVD?

Also, one more question. The cable connection is split and then runs to the cable box then to the TV, while the other cable goes directly into the UHF/VHF spot. I ran auto program and it didn't retrieve too many stations. Am I going about this wrong? I would like to see if I can get OTA HD channels before I slap another $5 bucks for HD onto my continually growing Comcast bill.

Thanks for all the help, the posts on this site have been very informing and beneficial during this whole process. Thank You!

CJ

CJ, you might try "unsplitting" the cable and just go direct to your cable input and see if that helps. Maybe the signal is too weak when splitting it? I believe there are 2 antenna inputs, one for regular cable and one for receiving OTA HD via a VHF/UHF; I think you should be using the first for the cable not coming from the box. Check out page 31 in the manual Does your cable box have another coax output like in that picture?

Also can you PM me where you got this deal? What area do you live? Did you get the Sony stand meant for this set (SUG-W12) ? It lists for $800! Thanks!

Originally posted by ellisr63
Went out and got the 2910. I like the interface better and the picture seems to be better(we will see if it gets better once I calibrate it).

Ellisr,

I've got a 55XS with a 2910 via HDMI. Great picture - haven't used AVIA/DVE yet, but made a couple of small tweaks to it and the picture looks great. Have you made any tweaks yet? I'd be curious what your settings are if you don't mind sharing.

Turd Burglar,
I am hoping this week to get a chance to use DVE for tweeking the set.
Ron

I did some tweaks to my set this past weekend, believe I'm finished now - only thing I didn't set was grayscale because I don't have the proper equipment. I used DVE for everything.

TV Video:
Mode: Pro
Picture: 44
Brightness: 34
Color: 37
Hue: 0
Sharpness: min
Color temp: warm
Noise reduction: off
mild: off
Power: reduced
advanced: everything set to OFF, white balance settings all at 0.

TV Service Menu (720p with Panny S97S - video 8):
MID-1
DHPH: 105 (horizontal position - was originally off (103))
DVPH: 22 (vertical position - was also off (13))

MID-5
MHLC: 0 (improves resolution by quite a bit (2 originally))

DCP-USER
AXIS: 0 (color decoder settings, 0 is the closest to correct w/o adjustment)
RYR: 28 (was 91, adjusts the red hue)
RYB: 11 (was 24, adjusts the red level)
GYR: 148 (was 127, adjusts green hue)
GYB: 102 (was 91, adjusts green level)

I adjusted the color decoder settings above by turning off combinations of Green, Blue and Red on the set - using the color bars provided in DVE. The provided color filter with DVE isn't that good - namely the green. It is probably obvious but just for those of you that aren't sure you need to turn off Green and Blue to adjust Red, turn off Green and Red to adjust Blue (blue can be adjusted with the color and hue in the TV Video settings - not the service menu), and turn off Blue and Red to adjust Green. To turn off these you need to be in the service menu and change these settings (1 is on, 0 is off):

DCP-INT
RON: 1/0
BON: 1/0
GON: 1/0

Just a note about AXIS, it has been mentioned before but I think I should repeat. When you change axis from 0-4 (I believe 4 is the highest setting) it will have default RYR/RYB/GYR/GYB settings for each. When you adjust these it will change the AXIS default setting for ALL inputs that have AXIS set to the same number. So if you have it on AXIS 0 and change RYR/RYB/GYR/GYB AXIS 0 will have the same values for each for each input that is on AXIS 0. So if you need different color decoder settings for different video modes make sure you choose a different AXIS for each, then adjust RYR/RYB/GYR/GYB.

I got all of this information from this thread and others in AVS. Read the first post in this thread for service menu help: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=331875 .

I searched all over for a stand for our 60XS. The main problem was styling- the wife wanted wood, and solid wood- not cheap stuff. We have a fair amount of wood furniture in an old house that she wanted to match to, even if a modern HDTV was sitting on it.

I think we found a good one at a local Unpainted Furniture place... we had them stain it to match an antique piece near the set. It was expensive (just under $1000 including tax, finishing and delivery), but the wife likes it and tolerates the tech equipment a little more in "her" old house, which makes me happy. :D

If anyone is in the same boat, here's a pic of what we found:

Very nice stand! I just received Audio Advisor's new catalog today. They have a number of stands shown for large DLP/LCD tvs. Most are in the more modern styling from Salamander, BDI and Sanus. You can probably request a catalog from their web site or just look online.

BTW, what is the center speaker sitting on? I assume it's not just on top of the tv?

Originally posted by Phil Tomaskovic


BTW, what is the center speaker sitting on? I assume it's not just on top of the tv?

Thanks for the compliment Phil, very nice to hear.

The center speaker is sitting on a shelf made by Omnimount... available from Circuit City. I like having the center speaker above the TV... seems to help with the sound imaging from where I sit.

Here's a rear side pick of this center speaker mount (pardon the dust, the flash picks up the most embarrassing things! :o )

Daver
Great looking stand. It looks like you have some components inside. Did you provide any ventilation in the back? Things could heat up a bit inside a closed up cabinet.

joe

Originally posted by joeren
Did you provide any ventilation in the back? Things could heat up a bit inside a closed up cabinet.

joe

Thanks Joe. Good point on the ventilation, I hadn't thought about that. There's an 1 1/2" wire access hole on each side. Is that enough or should I add a second on each side?

Daver
Read the manufacturers guide on your products. They probably recommend a minimum clearance for the top, side and back of components. This dimension is in free air, where there is plenty of air circulation. If the heat can't get out of the cabinet you could: 1. Damage your equipment. 2. Degrade the equipments performance. 3. Decrease its lifespan or all of the above. I would install a quiet muffin fan, or two, in the back of the cabinet to keep fresh cool air circulating around inside the cabinet. Especially if you have a power amp in there. Heat is the enemy of all components.
Cheers
Joe

and what ever you do, keep the munchkins out of the cabinet, they get crazy when the doors close and they'll damage your stuff.

I have had the 55XS955 for about 4 months now with no problems at all until this morning. I went to turn it on and all that happen was the green blinking light and after a minute or so it will stop blinking and stay green. So I thought it was the bulb already so I decided to do one more thing and that was unplug the set for a minute and plug it back in and sure enough it worked. has anyone else had this problem before or no what it could be?

Originally posted by Phil Tomaskovic
CJ, you might try "unsplitting" the cable and just go direct to your cable input and see if that helps.

Thanks Phil, I ran the cable straight from the wall into the cable side of the TV and ran the autoprogram again and it found a ton of new channels 70+ analog, 340+ digital with about 70 digital shown. I have some local HD channels and it seems to have found some premium channels also. Premium channels are kinda weird though. They come and go. After a movie is finished the signal is gone. Then a new sub channel may start a new program. Not quite sure what's going on. It's kind of confusing not knowing exactly what channel your on. Does anyone know of listing that list the channels and sub channels for certain cable providers?

I really appreciate the help. Thanks!

I found a posting detailing service menu settings/proceedures for adjusting the XS955 series to properly display a direct DVI hookup from a Mac. I need that info and now, for the life of me, I have searched and searched and can't find it. Anyone know where that posting is? Can you post here in reponse if not but you have such info?

Thanks.

My 60XS955 is a week old and I am now considering a surround system. I am not into high end stuff, just basic low cost. I am completely ignorant about systems and have just looked at a Sony DAV-FR8 at CC. I can get this over the internet with rebate for about $400. Is this a good deal or should I be looking at something else? Thanks for any help.

My personally suggestion would be to buy better quality components and space them out if cost is a factor after buying the TV. Why buy such a nice TV and then get a low end audio system. I would say buy a nice separate receiver and get a couple of nice book shelf speaks that will last you until you can upgrade, then move the speakers to the back when you are able to get the rest of the set up. A good sub would be a good idea too if you go with book shelf speakers. It took me about five years to get every speaker I wanted but I did it. Even if you can find some cheap speakers to fill in the system that might be a better idea then plunking down 400 bones on something that you might regret buying becasue you want something better after tasting even a low end audio set up. With all that said, that is just what I would do but I am sure you will get a few different ways to approach the issue

If you want to get a HTIB system, probably the best one out there is from Onkyo.

Link (http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Onkyo-Home-Theater-System-HTS-770-/sem/rpsm/oid/90794/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do)

After one hour of taking off the panel behind the set, removing the subwoofer to allow room to remove the main set fan to allow room to remove the lamp unit to allow room to remove the cables coming out of the lamp driver module into the lamp ballast...the lamp driver was replaced with a new one (the new lamp driver looked identical to the old one externally but Sony claims that it is a newer, updated version - Sony never reveals what's "new" in the updated parts...including my updated lamp unit to either the public or the technicians).

So now the TV works fine. Wasn't so bad afterall - now I know how to take apart the whole rear assembly if I wanted to. Sony does a very good job in hiding the screws in a way to make it almost painful to find them, and it's pretty lousy how you have to remove so many components just to get to a specific one.

Back in business!

I would love to hear people's opinions on turning the set off versus leaving it on unwatched for a short time.

It's my thinking that turning the set off, letting it cool, then turning it back on is greater wear and tear than leaving it on for a few minutes if you aren't going to watch TV for a while. Sometimes I need to turn on the TV to check the listings or see what's on the Tivo, but I'm not ready to watch TV right away. So my question is... Should I turn the TV off until I am ready to use it or should I leave it on? Which is worse on the bulb- staying on for XX minutes or cooling and re-heating?

And I guess a followup question, if the answer is "leave it on", is how long? If I'm not going to watch TV or stop watching for 5 minutes... go ahead and leave it on? What about 15 minutes? Half hour...?

Anyone have any comments or opinions?

I would leave it on for anything shorter than a couple of hours. Yes, more time on the lamp will be used, but so what? That was part of the price of getting a state of the art display. Electronics in general does not like surges, although I am sure there is decent protection circuitry built into the Sony, and you are using a good surge protector and/or UPS.

But I think it's too much that we have to tip toe around this modern electronics when the old sets burned away several hours a day with little or no AC protection.

On the other hand, if you have an extended warranty turn it on and off at will. But something less than an hour seems ridiculous. The family has set times we usually watch TV. If something special comes up then we turn it on sooner. I really think it's a non-problem.

Leave it on. Cycling the lamp on/off places more stress than leaving it on. I routinely will have it on and go shopping for 45 min. and leave it on. Plus the warm-up tme can be painful if you are constantly off/on.

This is true for anything Electronic.....turning it on & off can hurt things more with giving it that surge of power when you turn on the switch. the bulb would be the same. But i tell people don't leave the house & leave things going....I had a friend that never turned off his stereo amp....but with our bulbs this would be not good.

Anybody else but me notice that when the TV has been on for at least a couple hours, you can feel some warmth/heat coming out from the *right* side of the TV (when viewing the TV from the front) next to the inputs board?

I thought this to be strange because I was expecting heat to be coming out from directly the rear of the set, not off to the side between the speaker and input board. TV is working fine, however.

Yesterday I thought my TV was acting up again - lots of sound dropouts, pixelation, freezing, and artifacts appeared periodically like every 10 seconds. Then I figured out that it was the source (FOX in this case). They eventually resolved the problem. Whew.

Any danger of 'burn in' with the 60 inch 955 if I left it on?
BTW, know of a cheap place to get the replacement bulb?
How786

Originally posted by how786
Any danger of 'burn in' with the 60 inch 955 if I left it on?

LCD-based, DLP-based, and LCOS-based are fully immune to burn-in. The worst that can happen is 'image retention' where an image is stuck on the screen only temporarily and even this is seldom.

Thanks SQ!
How

I recently realized that black crush is minimized much more when viewing DVD sources via component cables (I am using a Philips DVP-642 DVD player). Minimized so much, in fact, that I observe no black crush at all. Gamma corrector is off and black corrector is 'on' as a matter of fact. It strikes me odd, but I guess calibrating the DVD player via THX Optimizer actually helped that much. Watched LOTR I last night and could pick out every detail in all dark scenes. Pretty impressive - surpassed my expectations.

Compared to say, HD programs, black crush is much reduced. Black crush is widely prevalent in SD and HD programs - I tried my best to reduce them but still, there is definitely black crush.

How to do UMER tweaks on these sets?

Where is everyone getting the info on adjusting thier settings for calibration? I perform a search on the board, but all I get are requests for the same information I am posting a request for now. Ha

I just got in my 60XS955 and ould like to adjust the picture settings to see if I can get more detail in the darker scenes.

How may people own a service manual for this RPU and was it worth the investment?

Thanks all!
W

gama corrections, how abt?

FYI guys,

the AVIA dvd is available at blockbuster for rental.
saves you having to buy it for one time only use. check it out.

Do you know what section it is under? Special Interest maybe?

Thanks,
Tim

Originally posted by PackFan
If you want to get a HTIB system, probably the best one out there is from Onkyo.

Link (http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Onkyo-Home-Theater-System-HTS-770-/sem/rpsm/oid/90794/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do)

I second the onkyo, i have the 670 and love it. front speakers a bit big, but they sound great and the sub kicks!!:o

Hello fellow XS owners!

I had a quick question/favor that I was hoping someone on this thread cold help me out with.

I've had my 55xs955 for about 6 months now and recently built an HTPC to go along with it. I've been following the GWIII/GWIV HTPC Tweakers thread in the HTPC Forum and last night I went into the Service menu to finish 'perfecting' my display.

I made a number of changes, but unfortunately did not have the desired result and like a real dumb a$$ didn't take the time to write down my original settings first!

My pic is still good, and I'm actually displaying a decent 1280x720 rez, but I'd like to be able to reset all of my stings to factory and start over.

So, to the question/favor:

Have any of yo gone into the SM and recorded your initial/unmodified settings? If so, would you please share them w/me?

I am specifically interested in the HDMI input #7 and 720p signal. Thats the input I made all of my changes on so I figure if I change those back to Factory I'll be G2G.

Thanks for any help yo can give!
-Mike

Also, if there is a way to just reset the whole TV to factory easily, I could do that too. Thanks!!!

just took delivery on my 55XS955 this morning!!!! so far lovin every minute of it, although out of the box it can you use a bit of tweaking.

talk to you guys soon & HAPPY EASTER

Carmine.:D

Noize,

I just got my 60" last Monday. I read through this thread to find some great Pro settings and it transformed my picture. I am still in awe and am going through my DVD collection while I wait for HD-DVR receiver to be installed.

kind of off topic here, but i wonder how kung fu movies look on these tv's being all fast action etc.. it isn't HD foodball either :)

Guys,

Sorry if this is a dup, I posted on gw IV thread but figured this might get a quicker response...


I just got a cable card for my 60XS a few weeks ago. Couple of observations. First, the SD picture via the cable card is SUBSTANTIALLY better than through the motorola DVR. Secondly, when tuning via the cable card input, i noticed all the channel id's (e.g. WABC) populated. However, there is no guide. Is this normal / function of the cable company possibly? I've had the cable card in for appx 3-4 weeks.

thx for any input .

Acemanposted on gw IV thread but figured this might get a quicker response...

Originally posted by Aceman
Guys,

Sorry if this is a dup,...there is no guide. .

I posted on the GWIV, but I'll repeat it here... with Cablecard you won't be able to get guide data. It's a limitation of the Cablecard technology.

Originally posted by Liquidous
kind of off topic here, but i wonder how kung fu movies look on these tv's being all fast action etc.. it isn't HD foodball either :)

The LCD RPTVs have no problem displaying fast images. Usually any pixelation/blurring is caused from:

1) Poor quality encoding from either film-to-digital or digital-to-digital (if compression is involved)
2) Poor quality in capturing, i.e. live events where there is inadequate lighting, poor equipment, etc.

Note that BOTH of those reasons pertain to the SOURCE, not the TV. The SOURCE would be at fault. Even though LCDs have the inherent nature of 'image retention' where it takes split seconds for liquid crystals to change colors, leading to a 'slight blurring' --- this is not really noticeable at all for the purpose of this TV.

I have said it a million times already - but anybody who wants to see the myth of "LCD blurring/pixelation" destroyed - just pop in a Pixar DVD.

This LCD-bashing (and usually DLP-championing, how ironic) myth/lie/rumor simply has to end somewhere.

After much debate, I took delivery on the above last week. Absolutely love the picture and unit (although this particular one will go back as there are at least 2 dead pixels), but I am having some problems and I'm curious if others have experienced same. To wit:

1) I use Time Warner Cable and have an S/A 8300HD-DVR hooked up via component to input 6 and HDMI to input 8. The STB allows you to set/limit the types of output the TV can receive so I have set it send all (480i/480p/720p/1080i) and there is an indicator light on the front of the unit that shows the type of signal being sent. Here's the issue - when using the HDMI input there is a noticeable lag on some channels, some HD some SD, when changing channels. By lag, I mean that after changing channels the screen stays blank or even displays a full screen of static for up to 1.5 seconds. This lag does not exist when using the component input.

2) The cable signal appears somewhat weak. On 3 of the HD channels I get significant artifacting when there is fast movement. I know this is not the TV since I don't get this effect on the other HD channels. FYI, I've split the cable signal so that one input goes into the STB and another into the coax cable input, but I've also tested without the splitter going straight to the STB and have had the same problem. Has anyone tried a signal amplified (do they even exist for HD/Digital cable signals) or is there another fix I might not be aware of?

3) In addition to the HDMI and component inputs, I'm also sending a signal from the STB to input 1 via s-video. As you'd guess, I'm doing this try to improve SD broadcasts, but the improvement is minimal. West Wing repeats on Bravo look horrendous regardless of the input used. Is there anyone else that's less than satisfied about the TV's SD performance and what are you doing about it?

Despite the above, I'm extremely happy - most HD channels and DVD performance has been stellar - and am especially pleased to have found this forum. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Loving my new replacement Jan 2005 build unit.. flawless!! Going to do some service menu tweaks soon..

Elysedad,

I have the same setup, SA8300HD with Components to input 5, HDMI to input 7. I too notice the lag when changing channels on HDMI but not on Component. It reminds me of the way the SA8000HD would change channels. I can't exactly figure it out. I leave the components hooked up so that I can get DD5.1 out of the 8300 (which you can't get when using HDMI, despite turning off the Sony TV speaker). I don't even notice a difference in picture quality between the two, do you?

I also find SD to be less than ideal. I split my cable to run into the coax of the TV and to the SA8300HD. There really isn't much difference in picture quality, however on analog channels (1-99) the sound is much much better if I run straight to the TV. Through the 8300 it sounds like a compressed MP3. It's so bad that I rarely watch the analog channels.

Wish I had something to offer you, but it sounds like the channel switching lag is intrinsic to the 8300 on HDMI. Let me know if you find out something.

Interesting Tim, I have done the exact same thing as you regarding the various hook-ups from the 8300 to my GWIV.

I did notice an increase in picture quality for the analog stations(Cablevision) then via the HDMI and Component hook-ups. Unfortunately that renders the PVR useless.

Originally posted by ElyseDad
1) I use Time Warner Cable and have an S/A 8300HD-DVR hooked up via component to input 6 and HDMI to input 8. The STB allows you to set/limit the types of output the TV can receive so I have set it send all (480i/480p/720p/1080i) and there is an indicator light on the front of the unit that shows the type of signal being sent. Here's the issue - when using the HDMI input there is a noticeable lag on some channels, some HD some SD, when changing channels. By lag, I mean that after changing channels the screen stays blank or even displays a full screen of static for up to 1.5 seconds. This lag does not exist when using the component input.

I also have the 8300HD-DVR and have it connected to my 55XS via HDMI. Sometimes I get a full screen of "static" when switching channels or going into the guide and/or menu of the dvr.
My question... Why do you have your STB hooked up to your tv with both component and HDMI? I only have the HDMI cable going to the tv and an optical cable from my STB to my receiver.

Tim

Thanks, tmm0f5. The sound on the HD channels actually seems crisper to me when using HDMI, but haven't noticed degradation on the other channels. I also can't discern any PQ diff between component and HDMI so I've been sticking with component to avoid the annoying delay. I had also heard there may be an HDMI board problem with the SA HD-DVRs. I'vechecked the other forums for this topic and haven't seen anything.

Additionally, I've got to admit that I'm a little surprised people are willing to live with the SD PQ. Again, HD PQ is phenomenal but couldn't we have both?

I completely agree. The sound on HD channels is definitely a little crisper with HDMI, however it is quite poor on analog channels.

I read in one forum on the 8300 that TWC is receiving a firmware update to their lab for Passport Echo and will begin testing it. This firmware should resolve the issue of the HDMI not being able to simultaneously pass DD5.1 through the coax/optical ports at the same time. So maybe that will fix some of these issues. The SATA ports and firewire ports though won't be enabled until a much later firmware (this came from a post of someone who spoke with TWC about these issues). I'll see if I can link that post for you.

Tim

Hey timick1. The only reason I have both hooked up is to test quality between the two. At this point, I'm going to stick with the component. You should give the component input a try and see if you have the same problem.

tmm0f5 - Thanks for the info, I'd love to see that link if you get a chance. Its interesting, one of the reasons I got the XS instead of the WF was for the 2nd HDMI port for future use with HD-DVD (I do also appreciate the enhanced audio since I only run through the receiver 25% of the time). I'm now reconsidering given that this unit needs to go back anyway and component seems to work better than HDMI for broadcast.

Originally posted by cjunior
Thanks Phil, I ran the cable straight from the wall into the cable side of the TV and ran the autoprogram again and it found a ton of new channels 70+ analog, 340+ digital with about 70 digital shown. I have some local HD channels and it seems to have found some premium channels also. Premium channels are kinda weird though. They come and go. After a movie is finished the signal is gone. Then a new sub channel may start a new program. Not quite sure what's going on. It's kind of confusing not knowing exactly what channel your on. Does anyone know of listing that list the channels and sub channels for certain cable providers?

I really appreciate the help. Thanks!

Those channels that come and go are probably the On Demand channels - at least that's what Comcast calls them. In my area these are the 101.x, 102.x and 114.x channels. What I get is what my neighbors are requesting. You'll know for sure if you are in the middle of a movie and suddenly it starts fast forwarding or going backwards! :D

ElyseDad et al, I have nearly the same set-up, but with cable to the STB only and HDMI (Input 7) and Component (Input 5) hooked to the XS. I also have Digital Coax to a Surround Sound anchored by a Denon Receiver.

My observations:
1. Use both hookups. HDMI facilitates using the Sony's speakers (so I can leave the Denon off). When I want DD5.1 I use Component and the Denon. There is no noticeable difference in PQ, and I get the audio experience I want.
2. I really don't notice the delay. However, I tend to let the STB handle conversion (based on no noticeable difference when using all settings, 480i, etc.). I simply change to either 720P or 1080i depending on which provider is delivering the broadcast (I'm into sports, so I only do this at game time, e.g., CBS March Madness). Otherwise I leave it at 720P or 1080i (doesn't matter to me).
3. No dead pixels, yet.
4. SD is much better with the 8300 (I had the 8000). Its not your TV, which in my opinion is only a big magnifier. Do a test and watch SD on any TV, even CRT and put four face up close to it. Look familiar?
5. I'd love to get DD5.1 via HDMI, but need a firmware upgrade from TWC (I'm told). They're working on it. Honestly it would only get rid of the extra component cables. Its really no bother for me to switch Input Source, so even that value is minimal compared to my earlier expectation (Thought HDMI would be better PQ, and with DD5.1).
6. The easy to change User Settings (Pro Mode) are great. I've been able to create (even more) stunning output than I thought I would.

I'll stop there, but could say even more. One (satisfied) Wolf.

stupid question, maybe i just have a brain fart here, but how to those who use HTPC's with this TV play DVD's in fullscreen. if there are so many issues with getting this TV to display a nice pc resolution, how are HTPC guys playing DVD's? im checking the htpc forums too.

also - dvi to hdmi is preferred over comp to comp or vga to comp right?

Thanks, Wolf. What do you meant when you say you let the STB handle conversion? Do you change from 720p to 1080i on the STB or the sony? And how do you do it?

I hear what you're saying about the SD reception. I'm also having a problem where some channels drop out or have significant artifacting. Does anyone know how to tell if I am getting an adequate signal? I've found the diagnostic channel but its all greek to me.

Originally posted by IamtheWolf
ElyseDad et al, I have nearly the same set-up, but with cable to the STB only and HDMI (Input 7) and Component (Input 5) hooked to the XS. I also have Digital Coax to a Surround Sound anchored by a Denon Receiver.

My observations:
1. Use both hookups. HDMI facilitates using the Sony's speakers (so I can leave the Denon off). When I want DD5.1 I use Component and the Denon. There is no noticeable difference in PQ, and I get the audio experience I want.
2. I really don't notice the delay. However, I tend to let the STB handle conversion (based on no noticeable difference when using all settings, 480i, etc.). I simply change to either 720P or 1080i depending on which provider is delivering the broadcast (I'm into sports, so I only do this at game time, e.g., CBS March Madness). Otherwise I leave it at 720P or 1080i (doesn't matter to me).
3. No dead pixels, yet.
4. SD is much better with the 8300 (I had the 8000). Its not your TV, which in my opinion is only a big magnifier. Do a test and watch SD on any TV, even CRT and put four face up close to it. Look familiar?
5. I'd love to get DD5.1 via HDMI, but need a firmware upgrade from TWC (I'm told). They're working on it. Honestly it would only get rid of the extra component cables. Its really no bother for me to switch Input Source, so even that value is minimal compared to my earlier expectation (Thought HDMI would be better PQ, and with DD5.1).
6. The easy to change User Settings (Pro Mode) are great. I've been able to create (even more) stunning output than I thought I would.

I'll stop there, but could say even more. One (satisfied) Wolf.


Why are you using the component inputs? I use HDMI and use the coax output from my denon 2910 to my Pioneer Elite. The Denon sends out coax digital and HDMI simultaneously. Doesn't your source?

Originally posted by ElyseDad
Thanks, Wolf. What do you meant when you say you let the STB handle conversion? Do you change from 720p to 1080i on the STB or the sony? And how do you do it?

I hear what you're saying about the SD reception. I'm also having a problem where some channels drop out or have significant artifacting. Does anyone know how to tell if I am getting an adequate signal? I've found the diagnostic channel but its all greek to me.

Change is done on STB via "Settings" button, then "A" using the Output Formats. You can select one or more.

For signal, use Diagnostic Channel and on the first page (Summary) check the Tuner 1 and Tuner 2 readings (with the set on a HD channel before going into Diagnostic). There will be a dbmV reading that indicates signal strength. Lower numbers (like -15db) are worse than higher numbers (-1db). Providing you're splitting of signal and connections are all legit, you can call the Cable Co for a visit out.

Originally posted by ellisr63
Why are you using the component inputs? I use HDMI and use the coax output from my denon 2910 to my Pioneer Elite. The Denon sends out coax digital and HDMI simultaneously. Doesn't your source?

I have a low end Denon, without HDMI out from it. Even if it had HDMI out, I don't think I'd go STB to Denon to Sony. I'd prefer to go direct from STB to Sony.

Using the HDMI from the STB disables DD 5.1 out from my STB. I can only get DD 5.1 using component. When using component, I can turn on the Denon, but only get 2 channel out of the STB.

So, I leave the Denon off, and use the Sony's speakers for HDMI using Input 7. Wife loves it (one less remote since she uses Cable remote for on/off and audio through the Sony, and never bothers with the Denon).

Originally posted by IamtheWolf
I have a low end Denon, without HDMI out from it. Even if it had HDMI out, I don't think I'd go STB to Denon to Sony. I'd prefer to go direct from STB to Sony.

Using the HDMI from the STB disables DD 5.1 out from my STB. I can only get DD 5.1 using component. When using component, I can turn on the Denon, but only get 2 channel out of the STB.

So, I leave the Denon off, and use the Sony's speakers for HDMI using Input 7. Wife loves it (one less remote since she uses Cable remote for on/off and audio through the Sony, and never bothers with the Denon).

Maybe I am missing something about your config. I run my Coax from the Denon to the Pioneer for 5.1 and the HDMI for my video directly to the Sony. If my wife wants to watch a dvd without 5.1 she just turns up the volume on the tv. How are you getting 5.1 out of the Sony from your STB?

im about to buy from : http://www.usawholesaleclub.com/shop/Product.asp?sku=KDF60XS955

cheapest i have found right now, and good reviews. i have seen cheaper warranties though. can i buy an extended warranty any time after i buy my tv within the first year manufacturer warranty? or do i have to buy it at time of purchsae with tv?

Originally posted by Liquidous
im about to buy from : http://www.usawholesaleclub.com/shop/Product.asp?sku=KDF60XS955

cheapest i have found right now, and good reviews. i have seen cheaper warranties though. can i buy an extended warranty any time after i buy my tv within the first year manufacturer warranty? or do i have to buy it at time of purchsae with tv?

The factory warranty can normally be bought anytime before the original one expires. 3rd party warranties vary.

Originally posted by ellisr63
Maybe I am missing something about your config. I run my Coax from the Denon to the Pioneer for 5.1 and the HDMI for my video directly to the Sony. If my wife wants to watch a dvd without 5.1 she just turns up the volume on the tv. How are you getting 5.1 out of the Sony from your STB?

I'm not getting 5.1 when HDMI is used, from the Sony or through my Denon Receiver. I'm also referring to STB, not DVD source.

STB--->Denon (Coax)

STB >---- HDMI ----->Sony

Only 2 channel is delivered in the above to BOTH the Sony and Denon. Substitute component for HDMI in the above and I can get 5.1 out of the Denon, nothing out of the Sony (since only HDMI delivers audio).

I'm ok with this, but if I've missed something feel free to point it out.

Edit: The Denon doesn't feed audio to the Sony, just pumps it through speakers (not Sony's).

Originally posted by IamtheWolf
I'm not getting 5.1 when HDMI is used, from the Sony or through my Denon Receiver. I'm also referring to STB, not DVD source.

STB--->Denon (Coax)--->Sony

STB >---- HDMI ----->Sony

Only 2 channel is delivered in the above to BOTH the Sony and Denon. Substitute component for HDMI in the above and I can get 5.1 out of the Denon, nothing out of the Sony (since only HDMI delivers audio).

I'm ok with this, but if I've missed something feel free to point it out.
Have you tried using the HDMI (going to the Sony) and a optical or digital coax to your receiver? The only reason I am asking is some people say the picture quality isn't as good on the Sony with component as HDMI.

Originally posted by ellisr63
Have you tried using the HDMI (going to the Sony) and a optical or digital coax to your receiver? The only reason I am asking is some people say the picture quality isn't as good on the Sony with component as HDMI.

Agreed, the only audio I take from the Sony is the optical output for 5.1 which I feed to my pre/pro, when using the Sony internal HD tuner.
I feed any audio from sources (Sat. rcvr., DVD, etc.) directly to my pre/pro and use HDMI for upscaled video from my DVD (slight improvement, over components, less grain) and component video from my Sat rcvr.

This is the best combo for me, as far as optimum video and audio, and have experienced no lip-synch problems, etc.

my new sony 55XS955 tv has controls for white balance in the user menu. the only thing is they are labeled "BIAS" & "GAIN". which of these is equivalent to "CUT" & which is equivalent to "DRIVE" for adjusting grayscale?

thanks very much
Carmine.

2 Tuner PIP?
I have analog cable tv-- no cable box required, just running it straight from the wall to the tv. If I connect a cable from the wall to the CABLE input on the rear of the tv will I be able to view 2 different cable channels in Picture-By-Picture mode?

Also, can anyone comment on the fan noise generated by either the 55" or 60" model?

Thank you

ordered the 60xs955 today from usawholesaleclub.com . site/service had decent reviews on the net ratings, called and they were friendly and helpful. didn't try to push me bs, atleast that i could tell. price was 3212.00 shipped (per pricegrabber.com) but when i called to verify they told me 195.00 was mandated on tv's over 37inches, for shipping insurance? thats awful expensive shipping insurance. does this make sense to anyone? they said 2 weeks delivery. we'll see how it turns out.

tried to sell me the warranty, and seemed pretty honest about it all. i wanted to let them talk as much as they would so i could see if they were full of it or not, everything they said seemed to make sense. of course they recommended the warranty for 499.00 for 3 years coverage, and bulbs. they told me if i ordered the warranty now they would take it to 399.00 and it would include the 195.00 shipping insurance . so incentive to get the warranty now... i declined and will think about the warrany in the next 30 days. i think i can buy from MACK online ?? doesn't necessarily have to be from the web retailer i bought it from!

Originally posted by roblim
2 Tuner PIP?
I have analog cable tv-- no cable box required, just running it straight from the wall to the tv. If I connect a cable from the wall to the CABLE input on the rear of the tv will I be able to view 2 different cable channels in Picture-By-Picture mode?

Also, can anyone comment on the fan noise generated by either the 55" or 60" model?

Thank you

PIP... you can have 2 different input sources onscreen... as long as only one of those sources is an "HD" source (HDMI or component). I think digital TV is considered an HD source..? Anyway, your cable run would be considered one source, so I don't believe you can do PIP unless you have another source to put in the other side of the picture. Someone else might have more info on this - I've only messed with PIP a little bit.

As for fan noise, it's not bad but it's not silent. when I first turn it on the fan is a little on the loud side, but after 30 seconds it goes into "quiet" mode. I can definitely hear the fan if there's no sound in the room (ie silent passages in movie), but the noise is not even close to being obtrusive to normal viewing volume. I love my 60XS955 but I have 3 minor gripes- minor fan noise being one of them.

FWIW, the other 2 minor gripes are the Silk Screen effect and the lack of discrete input selection on the remote. But I would buy this set again in a heartbeat.

liquidous, did they say the warrantee covered bulbs or were they just trying to sell you an additional bulb besides the warrantee?

yes they said it did cover bulbs, 2 actually. the incentive was to buy the warranty now and the shipping insurance would be included for 100.00 dollars less. shipping is by SEKO worldwide trucking...

i mentioned it was for company which it might be, he mentioned that he highly recommends it because if the tv breaks down the road, being a company owner the bill to fix will be higher than an individual? not sure about that one, but im surprised at the 195.00 insurance cost. thats a little different than 3212.00 shipped price on pricegrabber.com . i gave them the okay to ship and charge me because i thought 3212.00 is a great price and 195 extra shouldn't be a big deal with something of this huge nature.

guess im just looking for some opinions.

Originally posted by timescaper
Just ordered the tv -

Need help deciding on one of two stands - the dealer offered both for the same price.

1) Sony Stand

2) Bello AVS-2563 racksandstands.cXX/prods/Bello/AVS-2563/Bello/0C54/0PBB0080.htm

Any input is appreciated - the Bello is a little higher and the dealer doesn't seem to fond of sony stand

Just got my set and the Belo stand yesterday. Looks good with my mixed components (black/silver).

Originally posted by DaverJ
PIP... you can have 2 different input sources onscreen... as long as only one of those sources is an "HD" source (HDMI or component). I think digital TV is considered an HD source..? Anyway, your cable run would be considered one source, so I don't believe you can do PIP unless you have another source to put in the other side of the picture. Someone else might have more info on this - I've only messed with PIP a little bit.


Thank you for the info. I've been unable to find any clear answer to this PIP question. Crutchfield describes it as a 2 tuner PIP which should mean that if I run a single unscrambled analog cable signal into the tv I should be able to display two different channels while in PIP mode. But sony's manual talks about only being able to show two sources while in PIP mode so I am confused.

Originally posted by roblim
Crutchfield describes it as a 2 tuner PIP which should mean that if I run a single unscrambled analog cable signal into the tv I should be able to display two different channels while in PIP mode.

I think the "2 tuner" thing refers to the fact that there's an input for cable and an input for vhf/uhf antenna, both of which has a tuner. So you might be able to split your cable feed into each of these and do PIP? Or at the very least hook up an ant. to the vhf/uhf and do PIP with your cable AND the over-the-air channels....

I don't know because I don't have cable so I'll have to defer to someone who has first hand knowledge.

on my Sony tube set, I have just a single cable connection and I can view/tune 2 different channels on the main and PIP. I assume it's the same except for the digital and HD channels?

Originally posted by DaverJ
I think the "2 tuner" thing refers to the fact that there's an input for cable and an input for vhf/uhf antenna, both of which has a tuner. So you might be able to split your cable feed into each of these and do PIP? Or at the very least hook up an ant. to the vhf/uhf and do PIP with your cable AND the over-the-air channels....

I don't know because I don't have cable so I'll have to defer to someone who has first hand knowledge.

You do not need two sources to do PIP. You can connect one cable to the Cable or the Antenna connection and then view two NON-HD channels at the same time. Or you view two other non-hd sources at the same time. IE, VCR and cable channel.

The set has two tuners, both tuners will work off the same signal source, cable or antenna.

Of course I am assuming that you have split the cable before running it to your cable box, or you are using a Cablecard.

Originally posted by krbramlette
You do not need two sources to do PIP.

THanks for the correction... I'm glad to be wrong in this case. ;)

New Member - first post - enjoying the site

I just picked up a 55WF655 yesterday and I love it. However, I'm already considering the 60XS955 for just a bit more money.

I'm only 8.5-9 feet away though. I thought the 55 would be pushing it, but it's really perfect. I'm in an apartment for the moment and planning for a home next year, which would probably fit a 60 better. I'd also get a few more features stepping to the XS series, which I have yet to determine the value of.

Would the 60 be unbearably large at that distance? When I look in the store, the jump in size is significant.

Thanks!

Originally posted by Magicmirror3
New Member - first post - enjoying the site

I just picked up a 55WF655 yesterday and I love it. However, I'm already considering the 60XS955 for just a bit more money.

I'm only 8.5-9 feet away though. I thought the 55 would be pushing it, but it's really perfect. I'm in an apartment for the moment and planning for a home next year, which would probably fit a 60 better. I'd also get a few more features stepping to the XS series, which I have yet to determine the value of.

Would the 60 be unbearably large at that distance? When I look in the store, the jump in size is significant.

Thanks!

I say go for the 60"! :)

Originally posted by drwtsn32
Buck, I now use Pro mode since finding out that it can look nearly as sharp as Standard mode when you set Detail Enhancer to Medium.

Here are my other settings that I recall off the top of my head:

Color Temp = Warm
Noise Reduction = Off
Mild Mode = Off

Advanced:
Cinemotion
DRC Custom3 (25/25)
BN = Off
LiveColor = Medium
ClearWhite = On
Detail Enhancer = Medium
Black Corrector = Low
Gamma Corrector = Low


These were posted many moons ago. Do most of you agree with these settings to get good black level, shadow detail, and overall good picture quality? I set my "main" settings using VE, but I was wondering what you a;ll thought about these.

Using someones settings are pretty much worthless IMO because dvd players and cable and satelite boxes are all different with different contrast... What works for some may not work for others....

Id definatley use cinemotion if i wasent using progressive scan...

Originally posted by PackFan
These were posted many moons ago. Do most of you agree with these settings to get good black level, shadow detail, and overall good picture quality? I set my "main" settings using VE, but I was wondering what you a;ll thought about these.

Id put detail enhancer and gamma at high...

Hi all,

Yesterday I worked out a deal with the local Tweeter to exchange my Panny 50DL54 DLP for the Sony 55SX955 LCD TV. The Panny is a great TV and the PQ is outstanding. I just happen to be one of the lucky folks who see the rainbows and once you notice them, you begin to see them more and more. I finally decided that PQ is really determined by what you see, and since rainbows are part of what I see, the PQ wasn't that good for me.

My Sony should arrive Saturday morning. My question is this: Has anyone set this TV (or even the 60SX) up with a Harmony Remote? I have the 688 and I love it. I've tweaked it to control every function of every remote I own for my HT system.

However, as I looked through this thread, there was one person who said s/he couldn't get it to work with this TV. Wanting to get a head start on programming the remote before Sat AM, I pulled up the Logitech site and began. I noticed that in the remote program for the xxSX models, they have individual commands to access the inputs. Has anyone tried these? Do they work (experience tells me not everything listed for each system actually works)? It would be neat to be able to program individual buttons for the inputs I'll actually be using. Anyone try this?

Also, anyone try both a Comcast cable card and Comcast HD DVR (I currently have the DCT6412) hooked up at the same time? Seems like this setup could max out all recording capabilities (allowing me to actually record 2 HD programs at the same time through the dual tuner DVR while being able to watch a live 3rd HD program through the ATSC tuner/cable card).

OK a ? about custom rez using powerstrip for the KDF-60XS955. I am about to replace my Samsung HLP6163 DLP (1280x720) with the Sony. I been using custom rez from my HTPC to correct overscan, just wondering about the threads I read where some are saying that the native rez of the Sony's dont match 1:1 with computer rez's. Couldnt I just make a custom rez using Powerstrip so it maps to the native rez of the Sony. Just like what I am doing with my 26" LCD TV (1280x768).

Originally posted by BJMoose
Hi all,

My Sony should arrive Saturday morning. My question is this: Has anyone set this TV (or even the 60SX) up with a Harmony Remote? I have the 688 and I love it. I've tweaked it to control every function of every remote I own for my HT system.



I am using the Harmony 688 and it works great. It runs the 60SX, Pioneer DVX-811S AV Reciever, Sony DVP-NS975V DVD player and the DCT6412 from Comcast with no problems

quick question regarding my 55XS. i noticed that while trying to calibrate using DVE, some of the info at the top of the screen gets a little cut off. anybody know how to adjust vertical & horizontal size on this TV.

thanks very much
Carmine.

Originally posted by Texadillo
I am using the Harmony 688 and it works great. It runs the 60SX, Pioneer DVX-811S AV Reciever, Sony DVP-NS975V DVD player and the DCT6412 from Comcast with no problems
Thanks Texadillo,

Do you just scroll through the inputs when you change them, or are you using the individual [input 1] etc.? I plan on having my Panasonic S97 DVD player connected to the HDMI [input 8] and my Comcast DVR connected via DVI to HDMI to the HDMI [input 7] and a direct cable connection to the coax of the 55SX. I'd like to just set individual buttons for each input on the first screen of my 688. Think that's possible?

Awaiting delivery on a 55SX this Saturday. Does anyone know if the menu adjustments for this set are independent for each input? In other words, if I set the contrast in Pro Mode for input 7 to 23 and for input 8 to 27, will each input 'remember' the settings independently when I switch back and forth? Thanks.

Originally posted by BJMoose
Awaiting delivery on a 55SX this Saturday. Does anyone know if the menu adjustments for this set are independent for each input? In other words, if I set the contrast in Pro Mode for input 7 to 23 and for input 8 to 27, will each input 'remember' the settings independently when I switch back and forth? Thanks.

Yep

Interesting to read BJMOOSE's earlier post today regarding returning a Pany 50DL54 DLP to Tweeters. Also returning a Pany to Tweeters tomorrow morning. Also saw the rainbows but that did not bother me. What has driven me crazy for the two weeks that I have had it is up to 82db of noise from most likely the color wheel. Will have them unpack another Pany to see if I got a lemon . If the Pany does run that loud the Sony 55SX955 is on my short list as a replacement. I am concerned whether our room can handle the extra 5 inches. Our viewing distance is from 11 to 14 feet depending on the piece of furniture.Looked at the Sony 50 inch model but my wife will not accept a totally silver model. Have looked for an editorial review on any of the Sony KDF series LCD models with no success. Anyone have a link to a editorial review?

Originally posted by DaverJ
Yep
Thanks for that. Good News! I have a 36" Toshiba that works like that but the Panny did not and that disappointed me.

Originally posted by DaverJ
The center speaker is sitting on a shelf made by Omnimount... available from Circuit City. I like having the center speaker above the TV... seems to help with the sound imaging from where I sit.

Here's a rear side pick of this center speaker mount (pardon the dust, the flash picks up the most embarrassing things! :o )

Is there any concern over vibrations on either the display or electronics with the center channel sitting on a TV mounted shelf like this? Personally I think the shelf is great and its one of the things I have been looking for in preparation for adding this TV to my system. Are the "hooks" that secure the front of the shelf coated or are they bare metal? I wonder about it rubbing the finish of the TV due to the above mentioned vibrations over time?

Thanks again for the pics!

Originally posted by BJMoose
Thanks Texadillo,

Do you just scroll through the inputs when you change them, or are you using the individual [input 1] etc.? I plan on having my Panasonic S97 DVD player connected to the HDMI [input 8] and my Comcast DVR connected via DVI to HDMI to the HDMI [input 7] and a direct cable connection to the coax of the 55SX. I'd like to just set individual buttons for each input on the first screen of my 688. Think that's possible?

I don't see any reason why you can't do what you asked. I use the activity buttons at the top of the remote to change viewing options. When I push the "Watch TV" button, the 60SX will switch to input 7 (Comcast DVR), switch the receiver to TV/SAT input and turn all other equipment off. Push the "Watch DVD" button and the TV will switch to input 8 (Sony DVD), change the receiver to DVD and turn off the DVR. I also have it set up to listen to music and watch VCR. The nice thing is that it knows if a piece of equipment is on or off. If this gets screwed up by someone using a different remote or the power button on the device, the 688 has a help button that will ask questions about the state of the equipment until all is well.

Sorry for the rambling. To answer your question, when setting up the remote on the web site, it does allow you to assign different inputs to a specific button so you do not have to cycle through all inputs.

Originally posted by Alan Lackey
Are the "hooks" that secure the front of the shelf coated or are they bare metal? I wonder about it rubbing the finish of the TV due to the above mentioned vibrations over time?

Thanks again for the pics!

I'm glad they helped.

This is not a high-end shelf, but it does the job. I have removed the shelf a couple times and have not noticed any scratches, but to be honest I think I'm afraid to look. The "hooks" are simply uncoated smooth metal pegs. I don't think vibrations from the sound of the speakers will be any problem, but if one was to slide the shelf back and forth or if there's serious vibration possibility in your house from weak floors, running kids, earthquake, etc.., I wouldn't feel comfortable with stand.

Hi Folks:

I posted a problem I am experiencing with my KDF55" in a new thread but no one replied so I figured that I try posting it here hoping someone can answer my question.

I have DirecTV HD and while watching HD programs, I've noticed a barely visible separation between the top half of the screen from the bottom half of the screen, thus giving the appearance of a fine horizontal line running across the middle of the screen. It's hard to describe but it looks like the top half of the screen is slightly shifted from the bottom half.

This line is not visible or as visible on standard definition or when I'm watching DVD's. I'm not sure if its my connection, how the TV displays certain HD signals, an issue with DirecTV or converting DirecTV's RCA box from DVI to my TV's HDMI.

Has anyone else experienced the same?

Thanks,

Will.

It seems if it is ONLY visible when watching HD it could well be the DTV receiver. Do you get the same thing when using a different receiver, or when hooking up an antenna and receiving an HD signal OTA?

If you isolate it down to the Direct TV receiver, try different cables also before giving it the boot.

If anyone plans on buying one of these sets, make sure to buy the extended warranty. I purchased a Sony GWII 50" from Circuit City (early 2004) and my set appears to be a "lemon", has been repaired 4 times and as of 04/06/05 the display is garbled to where it's unwatchable...very expensive boat anchor! I have a series of pictures that clearly displays the GPU is not working properly, problem exists with all inputs including DVI.

I'm going to get a *NEW* TV from Circuit City and my choice will be the 55" Grand Wega instead of the 60" GW, my viewing distance is 8.5'.

I have pictures if anyone is interested...

im interested in pics. send to hindelan@msu.edu