I used a .4 kodak gel wratten filter. The install was delicate but done with minimal complications. It's not something I would try to do by myself but rather with someone else to hold a flash light. Definitely improved gaming on Halo 2 with lots of dark areas.

So do these filters basically dim the light, improving the blacks but whites are not as bright anymore? Would a weak pair of sunglasses do the same? :)

Exactly. A pair of sunglasses with the same transmission characteristics would give exactly the same net result. And this does nothing to improve contrast ratio, just lowers all light levels equally, which also lowers the absolute black level (its the high absolute black level that most find offending, as this does not occur in nature). Turning on power saver mode does pretty much the same thing, except it actually reduces absolute black level by reducing the amount of light leak into the cabinet. These techniques have significant tradeoffs.

But gamma correction can cause an actual perception of improved contrast ratio (and a resulting perception of improved absolute black performance) with very little tradeoff by raising the luminance level of mid-grays selectively while leaving pure white and pure black untouched. Done properly, that can be much more effective.

EDone properly, that can be much more effective.

I disagree, while changing gamma may produce some improvements in black level, I do not beleive details will be improved to the same degree. If you read the threads pertaining to using the ND filter, you will understand that.
Of course, you can choose to disbelieve those of us who have done it, or try it yourself. "..actual perception"... you either see it or you don't. Not to say it's for everyone.

Exactly.

As sunglasses? No, I don't think so, but then I never tried on a pair of ND sunglasses. I am not so sure doing the manipulation through the projected image would be the same as wearing sunglasses and viewing it on the screen.
If that were true, it seems Sony could save a lot of money by simply 'tinting' the screen. As it is, they install filters, UV and a green filter, in the light engine. Probably the best location of all.
There is more here than just dimming the light. Not a LOT more, but enough to bring out details just dimming the light will not reveal.

This is not a miracle 'cure' and some may not like the fact that it is an 'enhancenment' but in fact this technology has some drawbacks, but with a well tuned image, and a high quality input, it does remarkably well, and the filter, etc. are improvements to many of us that have tried it. Subtle, but just the right touch for a better balanced and improved image IMO. YMMW.

For you xs955 owners, did any of you ever consider the 62 inch Mits DLP? My local Costco just got it in stock and it looked pretty nice. Not to mention its about $800 less than ordering the 60XS955 from costco's website.

The Mits model number is WD-62525. It's smaller sibling was reviewed very favorably by several reviewers.

DLPs have definitely improved, as has most everything else. You have to make the judgement with your own eyes, and if rainbows are not a factor for you, then all the better.
Sony will be out with SXRD, and other technologies will surface over the coming months. It's a very dynamic market out there.

For you xs955 owners, did any of you ever consider the 62 inch Mits DLP? My local Costco just got it in stock and it looked pretty nice. Not to mention its about $800 less than ordering the 60XS955 from costco's website.

The Mits model number is WD-62525. It's smaller sibling was reviewed very favorably by several reviewers.

It was certainly considered. I just figured, it'd be my luck, all is well in the store, get it home and rainbow city. :eek: I just didn't want to take that expensive a chance. I thought the Mits had some of the best color definition I saw of any of the sets in consideration. I chose Black Crush & SDE over Rainbows. I didn't buy at Costco beccause I couldn't get it home ;)

For you xs955 owners, did any of you ever consider the 62 inch Mits DLP? My local Costco just got it in stock and it looked pretty nice. Not to mention its about $800 less than ordering the 60XS955 from costco's website.

The Mits model number is WD-62525. It's smaller sibling was reviewed very favorably by several reviewers.
I am definitely susceptible to rainbows. After watching my folks' Samsung DLP RP set for a bit, I decided to go the Sony LCD route. I am very happy I did. The rainbow effect definitely gave me headaches.

-Terry

It was certainly considered. I just figured, it'd be my luck, all is well in the store, get it home and rainbow city. :eek: I just didn't want to take that expensive a chance. I thought the Mits had some of the best color definition I saw of any of the sets in consideration. I chose Black Crush & SDE over Rainbows. I didn't buy at Costco beccause I couldn't get it home ;)

ditto
I had planed on buying a Samsung DLP right up to the last minute. I jumped on the 55XS after seeing some rainbows on the Sammy. At the time they really didn't bother me but I could not know if that would be true as time went by.

Joe in Upstate NY

hi all,

I've read several posts on cleaning the screen (after searching the thread). Seems the Monster TV Cleaning Kit is popular with the microfiber cloths it comes with, etc.

Is this still a good choice? I need to get a good cleaning soon - my daughter has found the screen!

Thanks.

I would just follow Sony's advise in the manual (mild detergent and water solution, if needed beyond just dusting), microfibers are readily available and cheap.
Save the money and take daughter for a Value Meal, or something healthier. :)

ok, thanks!

Would mild be just a small portion of dishwashing soap, etc?

You mean I shouldn't be using Brillo, like I've been? Is that why my screen is "cloudy"?? :eek:

ok, thanks!

Would mild be just a small portion of dishwashing soap, etc?

That's what I've used, just a drop on a damp cloth. Liquid of course.

You mean I shouldn't be using Brillo, like I've been? Is that why my screen is "cloudy"?? :eek:

And you thought it was SSE. :cool:

And you thought it was SSE. :cool:
SDE??

SDE??

Nope, SSE. SDE is very a distinct pattern due to pixel placement. SSE is more of an interference pattern, the sparkling snow syndrome as well as other analogies. Seems more related to some interaction with screen 'texture' if you will.

thanks for the tips...cleaning later tonight or tomorrow morning. Appreciate it.

Nope, SSE. SDE is very a distinct pattern due to pixel placement. SSE is more of an interference pattern, the sparkling snow syndrome as well as other analogies. Seems more related to some interaction with screen 'texture' if you will.

So... you mean SSS?? ;)

So... you mean SSS?? ;)

Right now it's more ZZZZZ....I'll sleep on it... :o

I just got the 60XS955 and im new to HD Tvs. I just need to know how to get the best performance and picture out of my tv. Please help...

I just got the 60XS955 and im new to HD Tvs. I just need to know how to get the best performance and picture out of my tv. Please help...


Start reading threads like this, from end to end. Also, the GWIV tweaks, etc. GWIVs include your model.

I just got the 60XS955 and im new to HD Tvs. I just need to know how to get the best performance and picture out of my tv. Please help...

The best way would be to go into pro mode and make adjustments, but you'll need some kind of source to calibrate with. You could buy a dvd called Avia Video Guide and there are a few others. Also, all Disney DVDs have a THX optimizer on them, doesn't have to be a cartoon DVD, just a Disney release I think. That will have several slides with instructions you can adjust with to get the best blacks. Don't adjust to any particular show because you don't know what it was meant to look like or if it was just poor quality, so you might over/under correct on blacks, throwing off other shows.

Though, even with a good calibration some shows just might look bad because of the station. For example, I usually have to switch to vivid when watching Sci-fi channel friday nights during Stargate and Battle Start Galactica because the pure blacks are way too grey.

Do you really suggest getting the Avia Video Guide? Does it make a big diffrence after calibration?? Any other tips or pointers??

I think I found the same problem. I connected the optical out to my Harman Kardon and it will only receive sound from digital stations, not analog. I guess the only way is to also connect the analog composite cables at the same time, haven't tested the analog out yet though. My HK receiver has some auto poll thing were if it doesn't detect a digital signal from optical it will switch to analog, but I'm not sure if it will ever switch back to optical again after that without going into the on screen display to do it manually. Then with auto poll still on it will actually switch back to analog again while still in the menu only seconds after changing it when you didn't even plan to use it yet.

SOUND PROBLEMS:

I think I figured this one out recently. If you are going to use both digital and analog sound out to a receiver, (and here's the important part, I think) BEFORE YOU TURN OFF THE SET'S SPEAKERS, set the volume to any positive number, but not all the way to zero. If you set it at zero, no analog sound signals will come through the analog outputs.

I discovered this by just playing with it. I had it working for the longest time, both ways, not knowing how I got it to. My receiver does what yours does, when set on "Auto" if a digital signal is present it'll take that. If not, it'll use whatever's on the analog input. One morning I wanted to be a bit quieter, so I though the TV's own speakers might be easier to adjust quickly, so I switched them on.

Later in the day, we wanted to watch something, and I set the volume back to zero on the TV, and switched the speakers "off" with the menu. At that point, only digital channels had any sound, and that's when I started turning the speakers on and off again, trying to get those analog stations back into the sound system.

Somehwo, I stumbled on the fact that the volume on the TV speakers must be at a positive number before turning them off, in order for the analog out to work.

It occured to me that I have a Sony bedroom tube set that does the same thing. If I lower the speakers all the way, the output is muted. But if I leave it with the second green line showing, the sound then outputs to the receiver.

It must be some kind of newer Sony "thing".

Harry

I just got the 60XS955 and im new to HD Tvs. I just need to know how to get the best performance and picture out of my tv. Please help...

Step one: Hook up cable/antenna/dish
Step two: Sit down in favorite comfy chair
Step 3: Use remote to turn it on (Discovery HDT preferably)
Step 4: wait
Step 5: ENJOY! :cool:

It's been forever since I checked this thread.. but is there yet a fix for the Information Screen randomly popping up? Perhaps some firmware upgrade?

I'll try that fix with leaving the volume on 1 and testing to see if the receiver will still receive the analog channels.

It's been forever since I checked this thread.. but is there yet a fix for the Information Screen randomly popping up? Perhaps some firmware upgrade?

So far none that I know, and mine was upgraded in March.

It looked like the volume thing worked. What a interesting quirk. Thanks alot HGN. That was 1 of the only 2 things left that I haven't been able to fix yet. Now if anybody could figure a way that to get the 5.1 audio out of the optical cable when using the HDMI cable....

Oppo DVD players (and probably others) have menu adjustable audio levels. And the '0' position at the bottom of the scale, means OFF!

I disagree, while changing gamma may produce some improvements in black level, I do not beleive details will be improved to the same degree. If you read the threads pertaining to using the ND filter, you will understand that.
Of course, you can choose to disbelieve those of us who have done it, or try it yourself. "..actual perception"... you either see it or you don't. Not to say it's for everyone.

As you may have just pointed out, "...actual perception..." is really all that matters, just as it is in love and politics.

You can disagree that changing gamma may produce some improvements in black level, but you aren't disagreeing with me, because the hard facts are that changing gamma can't possibly affect the absolute black level (or the actual amount of detail). Gamma affects all levels of gray except extreme black and extreme white, by definition, which means it has zero affect on absolute black levels (or peak brightness).

But, it does increase a perception of improved black levels (as well as the perception of detail) due to the fact that there is more difference between the lower to mid gray levels and the fixed level of absolute black, for any given image (without raising overall contrast or brightness). Absolute black isn't darker, but it surely does appear that it is...again, all that matters. It also can make detail that is already there in the lower levels of black easier to perceive both because it is now both brighter than it was and relatively brighter than absolute black, and there is more relative contrast between the lower levels of gray themselves, so it increases the perception of detail where it counts (lower grays) by a trade-off which decreases the perception of detail in the highest levels of white (where it just doesn't matter).

And there is no way to actually improve detail by adjusting gamma or by adding a ND filter. Detail is either there or it isn't, and adding a filter to make the entire image darker, by itself, can't change whether the detail is there or not or whether it is visible or not, other than lowering any level of gray by filtering makes it less visible.

Detail must be in the image and resolved by the display to be visible, and there is no way to add detail beyond that. The only thing that reduces detail is when it is crushed by misadjusting things so that the lowest levels of gray are below the linear transfer curve of the video circuitry (adjusted below the absolute black level of the display). Adding a ND filter just makes that critical adjustment all the harder to do properly, and the detail that is there all the harder to perceive.

It's a trade-off...adding a ND filter can significantly improve the absolute black level, but it does not improve detail, it does it at the EXPENSE of detail. Once again, if the net affect is an improved picture, that is all that matters, and to some, a darker absolute black with slightly diminished detail brightness in the lower grays is preferable to a higher abolute black level and perfectly preserved detail in the lower grays. Since that's a personal choice, it explains why ND isn't standard issue.

The big advantage of a ND filter is it lowers everything, which means it lowers the absolute black level, and a high absolute black level is exactly what makes certain displays fail to mimic natural vision properly. Lack of detail due to misadjustment can also do that, but virtually every display can be adjusted to not crush or degrade detail in the lowest gray levels, and that's usually easier done if there is no ND filter in the way.

There are plenty of folks (or were in the 80's) who perceived better sound when they used a special $20 green magic marker to paint the edges of their CDs. Today they still satisfy that need to improve things with Monster cables. We really want to believe that what we do will improve things, just like we wanted to believe that war in Iraq would yield democracy and cheap gas. That's human nature, but sometimes we have to be smart enough to evolve beyond our nature, and brave enough to seek the truth, instead.

As sunglasses? No, I don't think so, but then I never tried on a pair of ND sunglasses. I am not so sure doing the manipulation through the projected image would be the same as wearing sunglasses and viewing it on the screen.
If that were true, it seems Sony could save a lot of money by simply 'tinting' the screen.

...YMMW.

I fail to see the difference between placing a semi-transparent partition between your eyes and a projected image (installing a ND filter) vs., well, placing a semi-transparent partition between your eyes and a projected image (watching a display wearing ND sunglasses). Same optical appliance technique, same laws of physics, same net effect.

And in case anyone was wondering, Sony PIONEERED this in the early Trinitron CRTs. They had amazing black performance (so amazing my niece kept complaining that the "tv keeps shutting off" momentarily every time they faded to black), amazingly dark absolute black levels, and an unusually "black"-appearing screen when they actually were turned off, compared to competing sets of the day. How did they accomplish this amazing feat? By simply painting the inside of the CRT with an ND filter.

But even they realized that this is a compromise, and every compromise has a point of diminishing returns. If it worked really well and was perceived equally as an improvement by all in modern sets, then the ND would still be built-in, just like it was on every Trinitron. Guess what, it isn't, and probably for very sound reasons.

I've had a 60XS for a few months and am enjoying it immensely.

I have an older (non-progressive) Sony DVD player, which works fine, but am wondering whether I could purchase a "progressive" one that would improve the DVD video.

My understanding is that the DRC feature upconverts the 480i DVD output to "progressive". Is that correct, or does it produce a picture that is better, but not quite what a progressive DVD player would achieve? By buying a progressive DVD player, would I be neutralising the DRC's effort? In your opinion, is the purchase of a progressive DVD player warranted?

Can you suggest some models which members have found success with? I'd like to stick to Sony, but will consider others if the opinion is strong enough.

I am also wondering whether to go for a DVD player with HDMI. One or two that I looked at come with the HDMI cable, but was told by the sales guy that they were very modest ones and not capable of giving 100%. They were eagerly pointing at the Monster, shockingly tagged at $150.00. I do already have some Monster component video cables hooked up, and am quite happy with the picture quality. My question is, could I be much happier with a picture produced with HDMI connections?

This is an invaluable thread that enabled me to decide on purchasing the TV, and I am hoping some of you guys will share your experience with the above and help once again.

Many thanks!

Manhar

I fail to see the difference between placing a semi-transparent partition between your eyes and a projected image (installing a ND filter) vs., well, placing a semi-transparent partition between your eyes and a projected image (watching a display wearing ND sunglasses). Same optical appliance technique, same laws of physics, same net effect.


Totally different effects. :o

Yes a progressive player will give you a better picture. A good upconverting player will help too, but to my eyes to a much lesser extent than the jump from standard to progressive. As far as HDMI goes....the difference was not a huge jump from component if any. You dont have to spend a fortune for a decent progressive scan either.

I've had a 60XS for a few months and am enjoying it immensely.

I have an older (non-progressive) Sony DVD player, which works fine, but am wondering whether I could purchase a "progressive" one that would improve the DVD video.

My understanding is that the DRC feature upconverts the 480i DVD output to "progressive". Is that correct, or does it produce a picture that is better, but not quite what a progressive DVD player would achieve? By buying a progressive DVD player, would I be neutralising the DRC's effort? In your opinion, is the purchase of a progressive DVD player warranted?

Can you suggest some models which members have found success with? I'd like to stick to Sony, but will consider others if the opinion is strong enough.

I am also wondering whether to go for a DVD player with HDMI. One or two that I looked at come with the HDMI cable, but was told by the sales guy that they were very modest ones and not capable of giving 100%. They were eagerly pointing at the Monster, shockingly tagged at $150.00. I do already have some Monster component video cables hooked up, and am quite happy with the picture quality. My question is, could I be much happier with a picture produced with HDMI connections?

This is an invaluable thread that enabled me to decide on purchasing the TV, and I am hoping some of you guys will share your experience with the above and help once again.

Many thanks!

Manhar

I have the Pannasonic S97 using the included cable. I'm quite satisfied with the resulting picture.
You'll find pelenty of discussion in the DVD (standard) forum.

Yes a progressive player will give you a better picture. A good upconverting player will help too, but to my eyes to a much lesser extent than the jump from standard to progressive. As far as HDMI goes....the difference was not a huge jump from component if any. You dont have to spend a fortune for a decent progressive scan either.

I agree with your findings especially with regards to my previous Sony NS975P before it broke. Little difference from components to HDMI.
I now have an Oppo Digital and the HDMI performance is superior to the Sony at 720p. Not by a huge margin, but noticeable.
The components output of the Oppo is definitely inferior, by a greater margin.

TomCat, we had this before with the forum on XBR 950 . Some have been using back light & more gamma to improve the black. Medium Gamma worked best. I use Low on the black, some uses med. Cinema Black on our sets Helps this a lot. Is this the N D Filter your talking about ?

I fail to see the difference between placing a semi-transparent partition between your eyes and a projected image (installing a ND filter) vs., well, placing a semi-transparent partition between your eyes and a projected image (watching a display wearing ND sunglasses). Same optical appliance technique, same laws of physics, same net effect.

And in case anyone was wondering, Sony PIONEERED this in the early Trinitron CRTs. They had amazing black performance (so amazing my niece kept complaining that the "tv keeps shutting off" momentarily every time they faded to black), amazingly dark absolute black levels, and an unusually "black"-appearing screen when they actually were turned off, compared to competing sets of the day. How did they accomplish this amazing feat? By simply painting the inside of the CRT with an ND filter.

But even they realized that this is a compromise, and every compromise has a point of diminishing returns. If it worked really well and was perceived equally as an improvement by all in modern sets, then the ND would still be built-in, just like it was on every Trinitron. Guess what, it isn't, and probably for very sound reasons.


The image you see on the screen is not the same as the image being projected through the filter.
The image you see on the screen is dependent on the reflectivity and other characteristics of the screen itself, including the effect of ambient lighting on the viewing side of the screen, as well as some stray projection light on the projection side of the screen.

ND sunglasses would be between your eyes and the image on the screen. Not the same perspective.

We can agree or disagree on that point. But I looked at the screen with the filter in front of my eyes. I can tell you it is NOT the same effect.

To say Sony did not include it for a good reason, or would only have included it if it helped is a rather weak argument. You are very lucky if you never purchased a product that never exhibited an oversight in it's design.
Again, I am only claiming 'some' improvement to my eyes, nothing earth-shattering going on here.

They probably did not include it for a variety of reasons.

One, maybe some folks would not like it. Admittedly!

Just like some folks might not like an ISF calibrated display next to a display that is pumped up in the showroom.

Another reason, and along the same line, it does dampen peak brightness, something those with less concern about picture detail and black level would be more disturbed about.

Well, like I said, it's only an opinion. I see an improvement overall using it. As do others including those quite well versed in the display technology as well as calibrating it.

Whether you consider the effect positive or negative is only valid through personal observation. Anything else is supposition.

I've had a 60XS for a few months and am enjoying it immensely.

I have an older (non-progressive) Sony DVD player, which works fine, but am wondering whether I could purchase a "progressive" one that would improve the DVD video.

My understanding is that the DRC feature upconverts the 480i DVD output to "progressive". Is that correct, or does it produce a picture that is better, but not quite what a progressive DVD player would achieve? By buying a progressive DVD player, would I be neutralising the DRC's effort? In your opinion, is the purchase of a progressive DVD player warranted?

Can you suggest some models which members have found success with? I'd like to stick to Sony, but will consider others if the opinion is strong enough.

I am also wondering whether to go for a DVD player with HDMI. One or two that I looked at come with the HDMI cable, but was told by the sales guy that they were very modest ones and not capable of giving 100%. They were eagerly pointing at the Monster, shockingly tagged at $150.00. I do already have some Monster component video cables hooked up, and am quite happy with the picture quality. My question is, could I be much happier with a picture produced with HDMI connections?

This is an invaluable thread that enabled me to decide on purchasing the TV, and I am hoping some of you guys will share your experience with the above and help once again.

Many thanks!

Manhar



I don't think you quite "get it".

On a fixed pixel set like this, WHATEVER you send to it is going to be converted by the XS955 to a 1366 x 768 progressive picture. That is this set's "native resolution". Wasting your money on an "up-converting" DVD player is not going to yield a better picture. Up-converting players do not add additional program information, and whatever they "do" is going to be re-done by the XS955 adding more steps of signal manipulation. Think about it. If up-converting playes could magically make an SD source HD, what would be the reason for all the fuss about "Blu-ray" and HD DVD ? Progressive scan arguably does make a difference on a set that can display both interlaced and progressive scan, but the XS955 ONLY displays a progressive picture, scaled to 1366 x 768 pixels.

As for the comment on a particular HDMI cable being "not capable of 100%"... well, that is simply BS. HDMI is a digital process. Bits of data. The cheapest, non-damaged, run of HDMI (with a good solid plug on either end..you know, manufactured properly...) will perform equally as well as the $150 Monster Cable.

Just remember, if P.T. Barnum were alive today, he would be selling audio cable.

I don't think you quite "get it".

On a fixed pixel set like this, WHATEVER you send to it is going to be converted by the XS955 to a 1366 x 768 progressive picture. That is this set's "native resolution". Wasting your money on an "up-converting" DVD player is not going to yield a better picture. Up-converting players do not add additional program information, and whatever they "do" is going to be re-done by the XS955 adding more steps of signal manipulation. Think about it. If up-converting playes could magically make an SD source HD, what would be the reason for all the fuss about "Blu-ray" and HD DVD ? Progressive scan arguably does make a difference on a set that can display both interlaced and progressive scan, but the XS955 ONLY displays a progressive picture, scaled to 1366 x 768 pixels.

As for the comment on a particular HDMI cable being "not capable of 100%"... well, that is simply BS. HDMI is a digital process. Bits of data. The cheapest, non-damaged, run of HDMI (with a good solid plug on either end..you know, manufactured properly...) will perform equally as well as the $150 Monster Cable.

Just remember, if P.T. Barnum were alive today, he would be selling audio cable.


Clearly, I don't get it!

Therefore, as I now understand it, a progressive DVD player attached to the XS955 does not "upconvert", but merely "upgrades" the video to progressive scan, and that "upconvert" is an increase in resolution (which would only "confuse" the XS955)?

But you seem to agree, don't you, that replacing the old DVD player with a progressive-scan capable will improve the DVD picture?

Thanks!

Manhar

Yes replacing the old player with progressive will yeild a better picture. As far as upconverting goes....dont throw your money away in my opinion. As said by the other poster the TV reconverts all signals to 1366 X 768 so in theory any signal greater than that would just be "back"converted to 1366x768 anyway.The Sony scalers are very good at what they do...let them do the work. As far as HDMI goes....unless you are hurting for an extra connection you wont see much of a difference between HDMI and Component. I went out when I first got my set and picked up an upconverting player with HDMI. I was all excited about having this great picture and as it turned out....no difference between that and my old progressive with component. Needless to say it went back to the store. So....try it yourself. If you see a difference keep it..if not...take it back . Good luck!

I would highly recommend getting an upconvert player. I definitely noticed a big and noticable difference when watching upconverted and non-upconverted material. It's one of the reasons I bought the set. The sets native resolution is not 1366x768, it's something like 1352x774 (I don't have the exact numbers in front of me but I posted them somewhere in this thread). My calibrator definitely recommended having an upconvert dvd player. The set cannot upconvert a 480p signal as well as it could a 720p/1080i signal. Upconverting players aren't that expensive either so I would consider it a wise purchase.

There are no absolutes in this subject of progressive vs std and component vs DVI/HDMI, etc. It is very dependent on the make/model of the TV and the make/model of the DVD player. It is also VERY subjective. Don't let anyone tell you that their setup provides the best possible picture. They may like it best, but you may not.

I personally like the upconverted picture from my Samsung DVD player via DVI better than the std signal going to the TV to be upconverted. I don't care about how much 'extra' processing goes into the signal via that route - the end result just looks better to me.

I would recommend that if you are going to buy a DVD player, get one with lots of different output options and buy it from somewhere with a no-questions-asked return policy. If you don't see appreciable differences, take it back.

my 2 cents, anyway.

My 2 cents FWIW. I replaced my old Toshiba DVD (component non-progressive) with the Panasonic S97 HDMI and see a world of difference. Maybe I could have saved the bux if I had a progressive component player, but I didn't and I went this route. Tell us what you eventually find, it adds to the fun!

TomCat...power saver if your set has it will help on the Black Level. What has been some of everybody's settings for your D R C...

I would highly recommend getting an upconvert player. I definitely noticed a big and noticable difference when watching upconverted and non-upconverted material. It's one of the reasons I bought the set. The sets native resolution is not 1366x768, it's something like 1352x774 (I don't have the exact numbers in front of me but I posted them somewhere in this thread). My calibrator definitely recommended having an upconvert dvd player. The set cannot upconvert a 480p signal as well as it could a 720p/1080i signal. Upconverting players aren't that expensive either so I would consider it a wise purchase.

You don't know what you are talking about. Various sources have the NR at either 1366 x 768 or 1366 x 788. A product of the pixel count on ech of three LCD panels that form the transmission medium. Your "calibrator" is mis-informed, and if he is the source of your "The set cannot upconvert a 480p signal as well as it could a 720p/1080i signal.", then you really need to take a break and educate yourself. As an aside....this set doesn't "upconvert" a 1080i signal.

Again, "upconverting" (downconverting) does NOT add any detail. It simply scales up/down your source material. If your source material is a DVD, it is 480P. If you let a upconverting DVD player upconvert it to 720P you blow up the starting material. If you then dump it into the XS955, it takes that already compromised material and further massages it. Doesn't it make more sense to let the Sony XS955 apply its algorithm to the 480P signal and take it to its Native Resolution in one pass? One step of manipulation is widely considered "purer" than two.

But.....all that said. Let your own eyes tell you. Don't listen to the well meaning, but ill-informed folks out here all too willing to tell you how it looks TO YOU. Some folks swear they can hear the difference in wire, even digital !!!! I guess its fair to assume these "golden ears" have "golden eyes" as well. Don't waste your money on an Upconverting DVD player.

...Doesn't it make more sense to let the Sony XS955 apply its algorithm to the 480P signal and take it to its Native Resolution in one pass?...
Especially since the XS does such an amazingly transparent job of rescaling. No improvement necessary.

...Your "calibrator" is mis-informed...
What? Heresy! If they take money for "calibrating" people's TV's, they MUST know everything there is to know, and someone who does that couldn't possibly have also fabricated a line of BS to support it! :rolleyes:

I always thought that if the source was sent via HDMI, that the TV wouldn't do any converting, and would display whatever resolution was sent - is this not correct?

I always thought that if the source was sent via HDMI, that the TV wouldn't do any converting, and would display whatever resolution was sent - is this not correct?

That's what I was lead to believe? :confused:

I always thought that if the source was sent via HDMI, that the TV wouldn't do any converting, and would display whatever resolution was sent - is this not correct?

That is not correct.

These sets can display multiple resolutions and will show you info about what the resolution of the INPUT it, but LCD TVs are fixed pixel displays, not multisynch.

That is not correct.

These sets can display multiple resolutions and will show you info about what the resolution of the INPUT it, but LCD TVs are fixed pixel displays, not multisynch. So if I send a 1080i signal, the TV will downconvert that to 788p?

So if I send a 1080i signal, the TV will downconvert that to 788p?

The XS line converts everything to 768p. Note that the perceived resolution of 1080i and 768p are very close... or at least more close then just those numbers indicate.

EDIT: If you need a better explaination of this, research an effect called the Interlace Factor. Putting it simply, science has determed that the human eye perceives an interlaced signal as 70% the actual resolution. So the resolution of 1080i is higher on paper, in the real world the eye only sees 70% of that resolution - especially if there is movement on the screen.

Daverj , This is true. Even on the sets that upconvert to 1080 P , On a 50 - 60 - 70 on the Qualia I see a bit more detail. Optic's though, may see more on a 50 inch setting size by side because larger Picture has less detail....

Once you call a sony tech you will realize this set does not display anything in 768p/788p. That is not the resolution. Take the pixel count from the manual and sony and you will see that 768 or 788 times anything will not get you the pixel count for this set. I verified this because I bought and upconverting player (Samsung) specifically because I thought the tv did 768p and the player is capable of upconverting to 768p. After much back and forth with Samsung level 3 techs they realized the reason the dvd player would not allow me to select 768p as an upconvert option is because of the communication between the player and the set. Because the set was not in fact 768p the player would not output this resolution as received by the player through the hdmi cable. If I had a dvi connection I could override that but after some basic math Samsung (and I did to reconfirm) came up with the actual resolution.

As far as upconversion goes, the picture quality speaks for itself. A 480i signal sent to this set does not look as good as upconverted 720p/1080i sent to the set. All you have to do to see this is to cycle through the upconvert resolutions on the player while watching a movie to see this. The tv definitely scales, upconverts, whatever you want to call it a 720p/1080i signal better than 480p/480i.

Once you call a sony tech you will realize this set does not display anything in 768p/788p. That is not the resolution. Take the pixel count from the manual and sony and you will see that 768 or 788 times anything will not get you the pixel count for this set.

I don't work for Sony and have very little electronics and/or display hardware knowledge. But it is my understanding that there are electronics between the inputs and the light engine. Just because 768p is not an accepted input doesn't mean the display is not 768p. It simply means the display accepts all the popular inputs (480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i) and converts them to it's fixed pixel display. This is a TV, not a computer monitor, so Sony selected the inputs it would receive for video and optimized them for the display pixels.

I have not read any information that indicates the XS is a fixed resolution other than 768p, save the common typo that indicate it's 788p.

It would have been nice to have an option for a 1:1 pixel display, but after setting up the 480, 720 and 1080 resolutions I ain't complaining.

As far as upconversion goes, the picture quality speaks for itself. A 480i signal sent to this set does not look as good as upconverted 720p/1080i sent to the set. All you have to do to see this is to cycle through the upconvert resolutions on the player while watching a movie to see this. The tv definitely scales, upconverts, whatever you want to call it a 720p/1080i signal better than 480p/480i.

I agree, that's exactly what I did with my Samsung player. I actually found a few scenes with nice high contrast/detail, paused the player and then switched between the various resolutions and DVI/component. 720p seemed best to me, and I figure this is as close to a head-to-head comparison that I can do.

Well now that I am at my house I can give you exact numbers. The resolution of the set is 1386x788. When you multiply these two numbers this will give you the number of pixels the manual states it has: 1092168. That may be where 788p is coming from.

Well now that I am at my house I can give you exact numbers. The resolution of the set is 1386x788. When you multiply these two numbers this will give you the number of pixels the manual states it has: 1092168. That may be where 788p is coming from.

Wait ogbuehi... didn't you say in a previous post "this set does not display anything in 768p/788p.". Now you are saying that the resolution is indeed 788p?

That may be, but it's such a wierd resolution. 1280 x 768 is a common widescreen resolution. At any rate, you will not get 1:1 pixel mapping on this set no matter which resolution it's actually at... but it still looks damn good.

Yeah, I did. I don't know how I came with the wrong numbers the first time. I looked at my notes and calculated the resolution using the wrong pixel count for some reason. I wound up having to do it all over again. I'm not real concerned about getting 1:1 pixel mapping anyway. I was just trying to get across the point that the set does a better job upconverting 720p/1080i signals than 480i/480p.

Yeah, I did. I don't know how I came with the wrong numbers the first time. I looked at my notes and calculated the resolution using the wrong pixel count for some reason. I wound up having to do it all over again. I'm not real concerned about getting 1:1 pixel mapping anyway. I was just trying to get across the point that the set does a better job upconverting 720p/1080i signals than 480i/480p.

No mattter what, how or where you get a signal from to input into this set, it OUTPUTS it to the screen to fill its 1386x768(788?) pixel array. That is the nature of a non-CRT, fixed resolution set be it LCOS, LCD or DLP or any other flavor of pane that has a fixed number of pixel elements that light up in reaction to programming.

If you are suggesting that an OTA 720p/1080i signal looks better to you than OTA or DVD driven 480i/480p once it is converted to 768p, I wouldn't argue the point. You are starting with a better signal. Once again, upconverting DOES NOT ADD PROGRAM MATERIAL !!!

I would argue that an inexpensive "upconverting" DVD player that takes 480p material and dresses it up to 720p/1080i and then sends it to the XS955 to be further manipulated up to/down to 768p will not benefit from the treatment. My basic point on this thread is that " for a fixed pixel display like the xs955, an up-converting DVD player is a waste of money." There is no way that manipulating the signal twice...blowing it up, then shrinking it down (480p->1080i->768p) or blowing it up in two steps..(480p->720p->768p) is going to produce a better picture than simply allowing the XS955 to do it's thing. (480p->768p) After all, the xs955 always has the "last say".

N
If you are suggesting that an OTA 720p/1080i signal looks better to you than OTA or DVD driven 480i/480p once it is converted to 768p, I wouldn't argue the point. You are starting with a better signal. Once again, upconverting DOES NOT ADD PROGRAM MATERIAL !!!

I would argue that an inexpensive "upconverting" DVD player that takes 480p material and dresses it up to 720p/1080i and then sends it to the XS955 to be further manipulated up to/down to 768p will not benefit from the treatment. My basic point on this thread is that " for a fixed pixel display like the xs955, an up-converting DVD player is a waste of money." There is no way that manipulating the signal twice...blowing it up, then shrinking it down (480p->1080i->768p) or blowing it up in two steps..(480p->720p->768p) is going to produce a better picture than simply allowing the XS955 to do it's thing. (480p->768p) After all, the xs955 always has the "last say".


I agree with you in theory, BBH, but in fact many of us have found that using a 'good' DVD player, let's say the Sony NS975 (when it's working) the picture looks just as good if not better through the HDMI output. It appears to have slightly less grain through HDMI. Could this be some subtle 'smearing'? I have no idea, I can only go by my own perception. Does this justify, having an HDMI output player? Not by THIS example. However:

Is the HDMI output of an Oppo Digital player at 720p enhanced, or otherwise hyped? Maybe it is. (It does offer more manual control in the menu than many others). But the colors have better saturation and the image better sharpness and less grain than the Sony player. Noticeably, not 'worlds apart'.

And yet the components output of this same player is deplorable, compared with the Sony player (not an issue in this case, just a poor deinterlacer). And the 1080i HDMI output is also notably inferior (which would be expected per your examples).

Matching player and display seems to be key, at least to the apparent perception of most viewers. I can not give you a technical basis for all these differences. And perhaps it is a case of some artifacts 'looking better' than other artifacts. I honestly don't know, but I can tell you what I see.

I would say there is enough imperfection in the technology ( I would be the first to say low priced HMDI players is a 'wam-bam' solution) that different combinations might well produce unexpected results. Some looking a little better, and maybe some even looking a little worse compared to older generation players letting the display 'do it's thing'. I am not presenting this as an argument, for I agree mostly with your premise, but only as an observation.

Of course we know that a true hd source will look better than a ed source upconverted to an hd resolution. But I do know for a fact that 480i/480p signal looks better upconverted by the dvd player and then scaled by the set to 788p than a 480i/480p signal sent straight to the set and scaled to 788p. That's the point I'm trying to make. I'm not saying the dvd player is adding material or anything. I can't even exactly explain to you what the dvd player does to upconvert to 720p/1080i but I know with my own 2 eyes that it looks better than just sending 480i/480p to the set.

Once you call a sony tech you will realize this set does not display anything in 768p/788p. That is not the resolution. Take the pixel count from the manual and sony and you will see that 768 or 788 times anything will not get you the pixel count for this set. I verified this because I bought and upconverting player (Samsung) specifically because I thought the tv did 768p and the player is capable of upconverting to 768p. After much back and forth with Samsung level 3 techs they realized the reason the dvd player would not allow me to select 768p as an upconvert option is because of the communication between the player and the set. Because the set was not in fact 768p the player would not output this resolution as received by the player through the hdmi cable. If I had a dvi connection I could override that but after some basic math Samsung (and I did to reconfirm) came up with the actual resolution...
Sony "techs" are the bottom of the food chain. The top of the food chain probably doesn't even speak english. Regardless of how you had to massage your DVD player to get it to display properly, if you take 768x1366x3, (once each for Y, U, and V) that will indeed give you the pixel count of the set. 1366x768 is the native resolution, by definition, and pixel count is what you get when you multiply those numbers and multiply that by the 3 in the 3LCD design, also by definition. Sony literature documents this clearly.

What you probably had was a scaler incompatibility. The scaler, using math based on the lowest comon denominator of 20, is designed to make 768p out of 480i, 480p, 720p, or 1080i, and was probably never designed to accept something upscaled to 768 before the fact and pass that through natively.

I always thought that if the source was sent via HDMI, that the TV wouldn't do any converting, and would display whatever resolution was sent - is this not correct?
I think we may be comparing apples to oranges. While you may not be specifically confused by this, using the term "conversion" to apply to rescaling could confuse some of us. Converting a signal to or from digital to analog or vice versa is one thing, and rescaling one display rez to another is something else again.

When the signal is ported in as HDMI, it is a digital signal, and the first thing that happens to it is that it is converted to analog HD, as YUV.

When the signal is ported in as component HD, it is already in YUV format. From that point on, processing is very similar. It converts HDMI to analog, does not convert component.

Rescaling is a separate issue. The set detects the original display resolution, whether HDMI or component, and uses that to tell the scaler how to reinterpolate it. As Daverj says, anthing coming in as 480i, 480p, 720p, or 1080i, is rescaled to 768p, regardless of how it is ported in.

Multiply 1366 times 768 and see if you get the pixel count listed in the manual. Talk to the top of the "food chain" and see if you can get them to tell you that 1366x768 is the native resolution. When you've actually done these things you will see what I am talking about.

SOUND PROBLEMS:

I think I figured this one out recently. If you are going to use both digital and analog sound out to a receiver, (and here's the important part, I think) BEFORE YOU TURN OFF THE SET'S SPEAKERS, set the volume to any positive number, but not all the way to zero. If you set it at zero, no analog sound signals will come through the analog outputs.

Harry

I don't own the XS955, so I'm taking a guess here re getting analog sound out of the composite audio out jacks on the back of the set.

Somewhere either on your remote or in the menu system there should be an option to select either "Fixed" or "Variable" Audio Out. It sounds to me like your set is currently set to "Variable" Audio Out. If you change this to "Fixed" Audio Out, that should provide a steady level of analog audio out from the composite jacks, no matter what the volume control is set to.

If I'm right, you'll probably get more audio out than the "1" volume control setting is giving you now, perhaps requiring adjustment of your a/v receiver's volume control.

If I'm wrong about this, I'll go back and hide in the SXRD forums. :)

What most of the recent discussions have not taken into account is the impact of the Sony DCR (digital reality creation) system. The choice of 480i, 480p or 720p outputs from your DVD player does not depend only on issues of scaling to the native resolution of the 1080p display.

DRC image enhancement and scaling is not engaged or accessible when using 480p or 720p sources from any input (HDMI or Component). But if you input a 480i signal from any DVD player you will engage the DRC image enhancement and scaling feature.

480i images processed by the Sony DRC will have an entirely different look than those from a DVD player where the primary upscaling to 480p or 720p is accomplished in the player. You can go into the DRC setup function in the PRO -ADVANCED users controls to see if the DRC is engaged and play with the 2 controls that are provided. The DRC setting alone will make the image on the screen from a 480i source look quite different from 480p and 720p sources. The use of the DRC will typically give the image a slighty harsher--more course and grainy look with more visible deinterlacing artifacts (less film like) compared to those images not processed by DRC. The look of the image will be distinctly different. It is up to you to decide what looks best. (Note that HDTV sources from 1080i will also engage the DRC but have much less impact on the image, so these comments are intended to be limited to the use of 480i DVD sources.)

But remember, if you use 480i out of your DVD player you will be using the DRC and it's controls to enhance the picture, and if you use 480p or 720 p out of your player (regardless of use of component or HDMI inputs) you will not be using the DRC.

kt

Edited Oct. 9 to correct a typo (408p changed to 480p).

I've had the set calibrated for each resolution on the hdmi input. The picture still does not compare between the set receiving a 480i signal versus and upconvert 720p/1080i signal. I'm prone to beleive the set doesn't reconvert rather it just rescales the image to the sets' native resolution.

Well, I have to tell you, with those "couple" (actually 6 or so) Advanced Video settings, I can almost always make the XS955 look better than the WF655 in the stores. For someone who doesn't want to risk exploring the Service Menu, that alone is worth the cost difference.

Plus, as has been noted before, some of the WE655/WF655 Service Menu adjustments do not apply to the XS955. It is getting to be a bit confusing trying to determine which of the Service Menu adjustments reported in the GWIV thread apply to the XS955.

Michael

I have a WF655 and have to agree, to an extent. Some improvement can be made using the 'extra adjustments'. Having played with both displays myself, I find the improvement greatest on less than ideal program material.
I have gone in my display and made numerous meaningful adjustments to the service menu, including greyscale and gamma.
The gamma adjustment offered in the XS is probably the most useful. Unfortunately, it is a very elememtary control. Having a continuous range would be a whole lot better, rather than just few selected steps. But this seems to be a typical Sony method for application of all of these 'correction' devices.
Either display is basically the same, controls aside. And properly calibrated along with excellent program material, is still very impressive IMO.
On SD material, better than some, not quite as good as others.
These displays still hold their own, have a proven track record. I don't see as many Sony complaints as I used to. And the lamps are still among the least expensive to replace. It is not a bad display to have while HD material becomes more prevalent, the introduction of HD DVDS, mpeg4 broadcasts, etc.
A nice and still quite affordable one to enjoy while waiting for the next big leap in HD display technology some years down the road.

I am watching AVP in hd on this set right now and it looks amazing. Looks so good I had to just throw a post in there to let everyone know.

Plus, as has been noted before, some of the WE655/WF655 Service Menu adjustments do not apply to the XS955. It is getting to be a bit confusing trying to determine which of the Service Menu adjustments reported in the GWIV thread apply to the XS955.

Michael

I scanned the pdf file of the 411 pages of settings for all WE/WF/XS model in the factory manual, and there is NO difference in the name of the adjustments, and very few differences in values. Where there is some difference in actual settings, the WF and XS are the same.
In fact there is one area related to 'panel' adjustments, about 6 of them, and that area is only different for the WF models.
And of course a few scaling adjustments, where screen size is the factor.

The only exception to this is the Dolby and some other audio settings which are unique for the XS model.

If you (or anyone) is interested you can order the manual yourself, or I can email you sections (4 total).
Where there are differences, the areas are colored in.

Sounds like a monumental task, but in actuality you can scroll the whole document in several minutes. The differences stand out immediately.

videoaddikt,

Sent you a PM.

Robert

In spite of the fact that a "golden ear" will swear there is a difference in cable, he will not take a large wager he can tell the difference 100 out of 100 times in double blind testing. I suppose the same goes for "golden eyeballs".

That snippet aside... if YOU can see a difference, either perceived or real, it is probably worth it to you. If "tweaking" brings you pleasure, by all means "tweak". I still firmly believe that if you simply watch an HD program, whether it be on a LCD like my 55XS955, or DLP or Plasma or, etc... the picture is astoundingly good. I just don't see what is be gained by trying to "better" today's lateral technology by trying to enhance something that is going to be subsequently re-converted. To me, an upconverting DVD player applied to a fixed pixel display, at a different native resolution than the final output of the DVD player is simply illogical. I personally prefer to wait for the Blu-ray or HD-DVD players that will output "native" HD in either 1080i or 720p so that the xs955 can take an HD source and do a minor "one step" tweak.

Well, there's tweaking and then there's tweaking. No matter how great the HD program material is, on a properly operating display, the correct greyscale, etc. etc. DOES make a difference. In fact, that is where the difference pays off IMHO.
Using an HDMI player that offers a better pic than a standard DVD player is certainly in the eye of the beholder, as to whether the difference is worth it. For $200, it's worth it for me. A $900 player would not be. While I wait for HD DVD players to be available, and at competitive prices, and with a liveable standard, I can still enjoy my weekly dose of Netflix with good image quality in the meantime. YMMV.

I got my 60XS955 last week and all I can say is...WOW!

Great deal at Sam's Club including the stand. I needed/wanted 60" and I think this is the best set I could get in my price range.

Picture was great right out of the box and even better after I tweaked it with Avia. ALL sources look great including SD from DirecTV or OTA. HD is stunning, DVD's look great, and SD looks way better than I expected. The internal de-interlacing and scaling of this set appear to be excellent.

I'll tweak it more as time goes on, probably get into the service menus, but I'm extremely happy so far. My wife even likes it!!!

Jim

I got my 60XS955 last week and all I can say is...WOW!

Great deal at Sam's Club including the stand. I needed/wanted 60" and I think this is the best set I could get in my price range.

Picture was great right out of the box and even better after I tweaked it with Avia. ALL sources look great including SD from DirecTV or OTA. HD is stunning, DVD's look great, and SD looks way better than I expected. The internal de-interlacing and scaling of this set appear to be excellent.

I'll tweak it more as time goes on, probably get into the service menus, but I'm extremely happy so far. My wife even likes it!!!

Jim

Congrats and welcome to the club! What was Sam's kit price? Was it in store? Costco had it online and shipping was $$$$

Well, after getting all manner of feedback, I ventured out and "bought" the following:

Sony DVD (Progressive) DVPNS41P ($72.00).
Sony DVD ("UpScale" 720p/1080i) DVPNS70H ($155.00).
AR Model PR185 HDMI Cable ($81.00).

I connected the NS41 using component cables to one of the video outputs of my 60XS, and the NS70 using the HDMI cable to another output.

The picture with the upconvert DVD player was infinitely better than with the other DVD player. In fact it looked much closer to HD than any DVD image I've seen. The picture was far brighter, juicier and sharper.

To quell the argument about whether HDMI produces a better picture than a component connection (or to determine that the difference between the two is not enough to justify the extra outlay), I hooked up the upconvert DVD player to the TV using both cables. It was immediately clear that the output using HDMI was far superior.

So I am going to settle with the upconvert DVD and HDMI, methinks. Please feel free to comment - and thanks for all the advice!

Manhar

Glad to see Sony come out with a well performing AND reasonably priced HDMI player.

Congrats and welcome to the club! What was Sam's kit price? Was it in store? Costco had it online and shipping was $$$$

It was $3.3k + tax. They don't deliver so I had to rent a small truck to get it home. Yes, they were in store but at the Club near me they had 3 left and none on order when I bought mine. If you want to check availability, don't trust the web site, when I checked it showed unavailable at my store but when I called them they said they had 3 (now 2 or less).

I think this is a very good deal for this set, probably the best deal on the best set at this size in this price range. If I had money to burn I would probably have gone with the SXRD but I'm extremely happy with the picture quality of the XS, I have no regrets.

Jim

It was $3.3k + tax. They don't deliver so I had to rent a small truck to get it home. Yes, they were in store but at the Club near me they had 3 left and none on order when I bought mine. If you want to check availability, don't trust the web site, when I checked it showed unavailable at my store but when I called them they said they had 3 (now 2 or less).

I think this is a very good deal for this set, probably the best deal on the best set at this size in this price range. If I had money to burn I would probably have gone with the SXRD but I'm extremely happy with the picture quality of the XS, I have no regrets.

Jim

Excellent price. I paid $3.2k +tax etc. last November for the TV alone. Great then, but "Watch out for falling prices!! " ;) ENJOY it!!

Just bought a Denon 2910, firmware version is "-9".
The TV is Sony 60XS955 LCD rear projection.
I plan to use the HDMI connections.
I have not hooked things up yet and I want to clear out some issues before committing to this player.

Have other people with similar setup experienced macroblocking and other issues?
Which settings are the best for this DVD player and TV?
480p, 720p or 1080i?
Other tweaks?

I am assuming the "-a" or "-b" firmware versions of the Denon are newer, but what fixes do they make? Is it worth the hassles to update the firmware? Will it do harm?

Thanks for the advice.

It was $3.3k + tax...
Anyone find it interesting that this set still sells for what it did a year ago? It debuted just about this time last year, with a $4200 MSRP, and was discounted well over $500 on day one. BB is actually selling it for more today than I paid last October. I don't really know, but I'd like to think of that as a testament to the quality and preferability of this set. :)

Anyone find it interesting that this set still sells for what it did a year ago? It debuted just about this time last year, with a $4200 MSRP, and was discounted well over $500 on day one. BB is actually selling it for more today than I paid last October. I don't really know, but I'd like to think of that as a testament to the quality and preferability of this set. :)

It actually debuted at $4400. Then Sony broke the price. But, it has held on for quite awhile. It is dropping now to what I paid last Nov. with a triple whammy at Best Buy. It was a beautiful thing! ;)

Anyone find it interesting that this set still sells for what it did a year ago? It debuted just about this time last year, with a $4200 MSRP, and was discounted well over $500 on day one. BB is actually selling it for more today than I paid last October. I don't really know, but I'd like to think of that as a testament to the quality and preferability of this set. :)

There's one very big difference, my price included the very expensive stand. Best discount prices on that stand including shipping are around $500. Sony recently dropped the MSRP from $699 to $499. With a stand price of $500, my set really cost $2.8k (MSRP is currently $4.1k).

I hope you're right about the quality. As far as preferability, it's selling for roughly the same price as the new 60A20's and it has better features like dual HDMI, etc (although my deal was better than any 60A20 deals I saw). I believe this set will be discontinued soon (Sam's has none on order), they may have already stopped production.

The options will be the A10's and A20's at the entry level or the SXRD's for $1.5-2.0k more. Sony wants to push the typical XS955 buyer into the SXRD's. With the lower priced SXRD's, Qualia is obviously no longer marketable and is being discontinued. The reason they didn't call the new SXRD's Qualia is because it would really piss of Qualia owners who paid more than double (should still piss them off but that's the price of being an early adopter on the ultimate bleeding edge.....)

BTW, after 1.5 weeks with my 60XS955 I'm extremely happy with it. The picture is great from all sourses. HD is, of course, stunning. DVD's are also fantastic and I only have a non-progressive player, that show's how great the de-interlacing, scaling, and upconverting are in this set. SD looks surprisingly good.

Jim

I know they (AVS) frown on numbers (probably OK if I don't list the store name), but the Sony site listed it at $4200 last October. It was immediately available at $3768 from one large very-common brick-and-mortar vendor, so I pulled the trigger on day one. Every time I check that store, it has not been that low since, and last week it was $3799 (maybe $3699), about what other brick-and-mortars are asking. I once heard an unconfirmed rumor of $2500 last year over the internet, but I sort of doubt that was true. Whether I got a deal then or not, and even if it dropped to $1000 today, this is still one heckuva TV set, brother.

I bought the older WE stand, which was much cheaper and to my eye, better-looking. $699 was just too much of a rip.

I just purchased the Sony 60XS955. Great TV.
I am trying to find a DVD player that best match it, and perhaps use the HDMI connection with upscaling to see what the fuzz is all about.

Which DVD player do people recommend?

I tried the Denon 2910. With HDMI the macroblocking is horrible.

Does anyone have an opinion on the new Sony 3100 E DVD player?

Or should I just stick with the component output of good DVD players like Sony 999ES (can be have rather inexpensively nowadays)?

Thanks,
Sam

I've got the 60xs with a pioneer 59avi....using hdmi seems to work pretty well. I don't usually see any artifacts in the picture. I think the 59 is obsolete though..replaced by a new model.

I just purchased the Sony 60XS955. Great TV.
I am trying to find a DVD player that best match it, and perhaps use the HDMI connection with upscaling to see what the fuzz is all about.

Which DVD player do people recommend?

I tried the Denon 2910. With HDMI the macroblocking is horrible.

Does anyone have an opinion on the new Sony 3100 E DVD player?

Or should I just stick with the component output of good DVD players like Sony 999ES (can be have rather inexpensively nowadays)?

Thanks,
Sam

I have the Panasonic s97s and am quite pleased. It matches up to the Sony quite well.

The Oppo has been excellent with my Sony. I've heard similar for the Pan. S97 and 77.

short time lurker in this thread. I just purchased the 55xs955 on Friday from Fry's for $2,8xx, including tax & delivery (it was on sale-the 60'' was on sale for $2,999).

Anyhow, I got the tv delivered yesterday. Picture is great with my SA 8300 dvr. Today, I brought home the time warner motorola CableCard. I attached the coaxial cable directly to the 'cable' input on the back of the tv and inserted the CableCard. The tv searched for channels but found nothing and indicated that it was not receiving any channels. I then called time warner, who activated the CableCard (but said it would take 24-48 hours to fully activate). Time Warner also said that I should be receiving most of the analog channels even though the card had not been activated---but, for whatever reason, I am not receiving any channels on the cable input.

I called Sony tonight and the CSR determined that the CableCard is not compatible with the set. I asked what brand is compatible to which he had no answer. I suppose I'll (1) wait for the 24-48 hours to pass to see if anything changes; (2) get a 2nd CableCard; and (3) if necessary, return the TV (unless of course, someone here can offer some help).

Any ideas?

short time lurker in this thread. I just purchased the 55xs955 on Friday from Fry's for $2,8xx, including tax & delivery (it was on sale-the 60'' was on sale for $2,999).

Anyhow, I got the tv delivered yesterday. Picture is great with my SA 8300 dvr. Today, I brought home the time warner motorola CableCard. I attached the coaxial cable directly to the 'cable' input on the back of the tv and inserted the CableCard. The tv searched for channels but found nothing and indicated that it was not receiving any channels. I then called time warner, who activated the CableCard (but said it would take 24-48 hours to fully activate). Time Warner also said that I should be receiving most of the analog channels even though the card had not been activated---but, for whatever reason, I am not receiving any channels on the cable input.

I called Sony tonight and the CSR determined that the CableCard is not compatible with the set. I asked what brand is compatible to which he had no answer. I suppose I'll (1) wait for the 24-48 hours to pass to see if anything changes; (2) get a 2nd CableCard; and (3) if necessary, return the TV (unless of course, someone here can offer some help).

Any ideas?


I have a CableCard via Adelphia and it works fine. It has to be properly provisioned. Did they take you into the CC part of the TV's menu and read to them a bunch of numbers? Adelphia insists on installing tha CC and charging $25 for the honor. It was an easy install from my vantage point.
It worked almost imediately.

geez...I've been gone a while from this thread!

anwyays, anyone know how the XS compares to the SXRD units? a few people tell me they are identical in picture quality, others say the SXRD is slightly better...

any ideas? thoughts?

I have both the 60xs and the 60 SXRD. The SXRD is being fed an HDMI signal while the XS is only being sent a S-Video (don't have HDTV for a 2nd set). The SXRD has a significant advantage of black level and contrast. The SXRD also appears smoother. The blacks are where the picture quality is much better than the XS. Unfortunately, I'm using memory to compare HD between the sets.

Jason

I've had my 60XS955 for almost 6 months now. Do any of you find that brightness of the bulb degrades over time? I bumped the brightness up from 35 to 40 last night because the picture seemed a little darker than it used to...but that could be in my head. For those of you who have had this set for some time, what has been your experience?

I bought my set in March and adjusted all the settings at that time using Avia and DVE. I pulled up the test patterns and color swatches last week and all still looks to be right on target. I don't see any noticable degradation. Could it just be possible you've been watching a lot of shows that have dark backgrounds?

I've had my 55XS since March. When it was new I noted the length of time it took to reach full brightness to be about 7 seconds. Now it takes about 4 times that. I'm assuming (always gets me into trouble) that this is a normal function of lamp wear. I have not noticed much, if any, decrease in overall brightness after warm up. Set still looks great but I wish Time Warner would use a little less compression on their HD channels

Joe

I've had my 55XS since March. When it was new I noted the length of time it took to reach full brightness to be about 7 seconds. Now it takes about 4 times that. I'm assuming (always gets me into trouble) that this is a normal function of lamp wear. I have not noticed much, if any, decrease in overall brightness after warm up. Set still looks great but I wish Time Warner would use a little less compression on their HD channels

Joe

Same experience with my 55WF. And I have had it the same amount of time. All my tweaks still seem to be right on.

I've had my 55XS since March. When it was new I noted the length of time it took to reach full brightness to be about 7 seconds. Now it takes about 4 times that. I'm assuming (always gets me into trouble) that this is a normal function of lamp wear. I have not noticed much, if any, decrease in overall brightness after warm up. Set still looks great but I wish Time Warner would use a little less compression on their HD channels

Joe
This may be relative to how much the TV gets watched. I just measured the time to full brightness (I added 1 second just in case my eyes were playing tricks on me) and mine takes 11-12seconds. Is everyone else experiencing 28-30seconds for full brightness? Admittedly, I only watch this tv a couple of hours, maybe 3-4 days a week (except for Sunday football).

My lamp has 1124 hours on it. Takes around 20 sec to full brightness.

I have both the 60xs and the 60 SXRD. The SXRD is being fed an HDMI signal while the XS is only being sent a S-Video (don't have HDTV for a 2nd set). The SXRD has a significant advantage of black level and contrast. The SXRD also appears smoother. The blacks are where the picture quality is much better than the XS. Unfortunately, I'm using memory to compare HD between the sets.

Jason

Terrible comparison. Try HDMI vs HDMI or S vs S not one or ther other.

Terrible comparison. Try HDMI vs HDMI or S vs S not one or ther other.


that's what I was about to say....

I looked at the SXRD at the store, and it seemed almost identical to the XS they had there...both being fed with HD from cable. I noticed more smoothness on the SXRD, but the black levels looked about the same.....the SXRD still had some issues with black levels as compared to a CRT or plasma.

Terrible comparison. Try HDMI vs HDMI or S vs S not one or ther other.

Before I got my SXRD, my XS was connected via HDMI HDTV. Unfortunately, I can't make a side-by-side comparison. What jumped out at me when I first hooked up my SXRD was the deep blacks and contrast level. I always loved the HD picture on my XS but the SXRD seemed more 3-d (contrast and black levels).

Before I got my SXRD, my XS was connected via HDMI HDTV. Unfortunately, I can't make a side-by-side comparison. What jumped out at me when I first hooked up my SXRD was the deep blacks and contrast level. I always loved the HD picture on my XS but the SXRD seemed more 3-d (contrast and black levels).

My XS has deep blacks, that's the problem. I believe it's known as "black crush" everything is black. But, I willingliy chose that defect over "rainbows" and burn in.

Joe, there are only two things that can cause crush, either setting the pix and contrast so that what it considers "black" is actually a lower value than the absolute black of the set, or bad camera shading at the source, where the light values fall outside the linear part of the operational window, somewhat analogous to a "bad exposure" on a still camera. The first can be easily remedied by proper settings, and the second can not be fixed in any way at the display.

It's actually the same phenomenon (waveform clipping) just that one is in the acquisition or processing before broadcast, and the other is in the display afterwards.

Bottom line, a properly operating set from any manufacturer can easily be adjusted so that there is never black crush from good source content. There is no inherent "crush" in the XS or any other Sony set. I can set mine to look proper, then lower the blacks 20 clicks, and still see detail on the blacks and not see actual crush or clipping.

In other matters....

My XS always takes 30 seconds to full brightness. It did the day I got it, the day the bulb blew out 11 months later, and the day I replaced the bulb. There was also no difference in brightness from the 3000th hour of the first bulb to the 1st hour of the second bulb.

My XS has deep blacks, that's the problem. I believe it's known as "black crush" everything is black. But, I willingliy chose that defect over "rainbows" and burn in.


I wish somebody would help me do a Nuetral density filter mod... Any improvement i feel it would have great shadow detail... Its just that little bit of brightness sneaking thru that causes Black Crush. I cant get nobody to help me install it. Nobody wants to be liable if something happened :(.

I wonder if i ordered a manual i could pull it off :eek:

I wish somebody would help me do a Nuetral density filter mod... Any improvement i feel it would have great shadow detail... Its just that little bit of brightness sneaking thru that causes Black Crush. I cant get nobody to help me install it. Nobody wants to be liable if something happened :(.

I wonder if i ordered a manual i could pull i off. :eek:

Have you read the the total thread on the mod? It does help. As far as I know, the only ones skeptical, have not tired it. :)

Have you read the the total thread on the mod? It does help. As far as I know, the only ones skeptical, have not tired it. :)


Daily ;) If you look at Joe perri panasonic, you can see all the Blue in his blacks were gone. I can see the difference just in his pics. Amazing. Im dreaming ;)

I have not read the thread on the panasonic. But I shall. I am impressed 'daily' with the improvement. As stated before, there is some reduction in peak brightness. But I am not so sure this is a bad thing.

Do we have a thread for this filter ? nuetral density ?

Here's a before and after of joePerris panasonic. You have to crank up the contrast on your monitor to see the blue in the black bars.

Nice comparison, including the detail in the image.

follow up to my previous post.

with my time warner CableCard, I now have analog and local hdtv channels. I am missing all of my digital channels. Timewarner says my tv tuner needs a firmware update. Sony says the timewarner CableCard is the problem. I suppose I'll try a second CableCard.

I thought someone had mentioned earlier that there may be a firmware update for the KDF55XS955. No one at sony mentioned any updates, and sony's website lists nothing.

I am open to any suggestions.

Thanks,

tum

follow up to my previous post.

with my time warner CableCard, I now have analog and local hdtv channels. I am missing all of my digital channels. Timewarner says my tv tuner needs a firmware update. Sony says the timewarner CableCard is the problem. I suppose I'll try a second CableCard.

I thought someone had mentioned earlier that there may be a firmware update for the KDF55XS955. No one at sony mentioned any updates, and sony's website lists nothing.

I am open to any suggestions.

Thanks,

tum

I bought my XS last November and has a build date of October 04. There was definitely a firmware update for it. If your set is newer it may already have it. I don't know where to find the version other than inserting a properly configured MemoryStick.

Hey Zeus, what location in the U.S. are you? I know an ISF calibrator that can install one for you for a fee. You may be able to do it yourself if you are technically savvy. I thought it was going to be harder than it was described. It definitely allowed movies to appear more filmlike.

thx joe. My manuf. date is February 2005. I'll insert a memory card when I get home and see if I can find info on its firmware. I picked up a second cablecard this morning, in the hope that the second try is the charm. I also called an authorized sony technician in the houston area who said he would try a second card first. He also said that he has seen problems on both ends. If he has to come out, he charges $150! I'll post back with updates.

Go Astros!

tum

I know I had issues with the cablecard allowing me to receive all the channels I paid for. I was told the set had to download all the channels and it usually took about 2 hours. After about a week they suddenly just appeared. It was always funny though. Whenever some of my channels went away, as soon as the technician was scheduled to come out the tv magically would start receiving all the channels properly. I never realized until we took apart the tv the card is simply just a pcmcia card. Looks like there may be hacks coming soon for this technology like there currently are for satellite boxes.

to check the firmware, does the memory stick need to be formatted a certain way? should the memory stick be blank or can it have pics on it? I inserted my stick but didn't see any indication of the tv's firmware.

Any suggestions?

thx,

tum

to check the firmware, does the memory stick need to be formatted a certain way? should the memory stick be blank or can it have pics on it? I inserted my stick but didn't see any indication of the tv's firmware.

Any suggestions?

thx,

tum

It needs to have the firmware on it. It will offer to upgrade if needed. It also tells current version.

i have a Denon 2910 upconverting DVD player connected to my 55XS. i use 720p as my output format, although many say just to output 480i & let the superb de-interlacer in the tv do the upconversion to 768p (tv's native resolution). unfortunately you will not find any DVD player's (to my knowledge) that will let you upconvert over component only HDMI or DVI.

hope this helps
Carmine.


Don't u have macroblocking issue with HDMI?
I have the same setup and the macroblocking is horrible, even with the latest firmware version from Denon.

I wish somebody would help me do a Nuetral density filter mod... Any improvement i feel it would have great shadow detail... Its just that little bit of brightness sneaking thru that causes Black Crush. I cant get nobody to help me install it. Nobody wants to be liable if something happened :(.

I wonder if i ordered a manual i could pull it off :eek:

Zues,

Have you read this thread? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4849204&&#post4849204)

Robert

My 60XS955 does an excellent job with the de-interlacing and upconversion to it's 768P native resolution. I have a non-progressive Pioneer 3 disk changer and use component cables through my Denon 4800 component switcher. I think DVD's look fanatastic on my set. Based on the excellent job the set does, I'm not planning to upgrade the DVD player.

Jim

Daily ;) If you look at Joe perri panasonic, you can see all the Blue in his blacks were gone. I can see the difference just in his pics. Amazing. Im dreaming ;)
It must be a dream. Neutral density will not change the color quality or color balance of an image, by definition. That's kind of what the "neutral" part means, in that it affects all colors equally, and rather than imparts more or less filtration to particular hues, treats them all exactly the same, or "neutrally".

If there is the appearance of a particular hue where there should not be, such as blue in the black bars, that can only mean one or both of two things: either the image as transmitted is not color-corrrected properly, or the display is not tracking the image properly, meaning that it is out of calibration regarding chroma tracking.

While placing a neutral-density filter over the screen may create a perception (or lack of same) that the problem is no longer there by making dark blues (and every other hue at that luminance level) harder to see, that is the exact wrong remedy for a completely different problem, a problem that is still there, neutral-density filter or not.

I agree, I notice the bars sometimes have a slight bluish tinge and it does vary with input/program material. The blackest bars seem to be with DVDs. Irrespective of the ND filter.

Coincidence, or some setting in the camera changed? I don't know. But the increase in detail along with a reduction of peak brightness (neither of which is a surprise), AND disappearance of the blue hue in the lower black bar on the Panasonic is unmistakeable.

CableCard update: Tried a 2nd TWC CableCard and it didn't work. TWC still claims its a sony problem. I called sony today and the CSR stated that there has never been a firmware update to the kdf55xs955. however, she did agree to send a sony technician to check out my tv. I'll update accordingly after the tech comes monday. the thought of suing sony, twc, and circuit city is appealing...

My newbie question for the day...

I've got the Sony KDF-60XS955 at home and it is great! I was watching Star Wars Episode III (widescreen) last night, and I noticed that I had the black bars at the top and bottom of the picture. I thought that since the dvd was anamorphic, it should have filled the entire screen.

What am I missing?

Thanks in advance.

I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong, but you're missing that the aspect ratio of the film is what determines how the picture will fill the screen.

cablecard update- sony tech came to the house and upgraded my set to firmware 1.72, which according to him, is the must up-to-date firmware available. The date of the firmware is May 14, 2005.

however, my cablecard woes continue. I am still not receiving any of the digitial encrypted channels. The tech is coming out tomorrow to replace the q-box and I'll then try my 3rd cablecard.

tumult-

Thanks for the reply. Sorry about the hijack...hope that you get your cablecard issues sorted out.

My newbie question for the day...

I've got the Sony KDF-60XS955 at home and it is great! I was watching Star Wars Episode III (widescreen) last night, and I noticed that I had the black bars at the top and bottom of the picture. I thought that since the dvd was anamorphic, it should have filled the entire screen.

What am I missing?

Thanks in advance.

tumult is correct. Many disks are "Enhanced" for widescreen but wind up in the wrong format. 16:9 is not a standard theatrical format, 1.85 is. As is CinemaScope which is 1.66. If the movie is in very wide screen there will still be bars top and bottom, but you see the full frame as intended. It's just way smaller than if you had to do it on a 4:3 TV. I know there's a full discussion in another thread, maybe RPTV??

tumult is correct. Many disks are "Enhanced" for widescreen but wind up in the wrong format. 16:9 is not a standard theatrical format, 1.85 is. As is CinemaScope which is 1.66. If the movie is in very wide screen there will still be bars top and bottom, but you see the full frame as intended. It's just way smaller than if you had to do it on a 4:3 TV. I know there's a full discussion in another thread, maybe RPTV??

joe221-

Thanks for the reply. I guess that I wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing a setting on the XS. The Wife and I rented "Guess Who" the other week, and it was full screen. ROTS was full screen, except for the small black bands at the top and bottom of the picture. I guess that it just depends on the way that the DVD was mastered?

I guess that I wanted to make sure that I wasn't missing a setting on the XS. The Wife and I rented "Guess Who" the other week, and it was full screen. ROTS was full screen, except for the small black bands at the top and bottom of the picture. I guess that it just depends on the way that the DVD was mastered?

Yes, only discs that are anamorphic (i.e. "enhanced for widescreen TVs") will "fill" a 16:9 screen. As previously mentioned, even an anamorphic DVD can have the black bands at the top and bottom, depending on the aspect ratio. A non-anamorphic DVD will have have black bands at the top and bottom AND on the left and right sides -- In that case, you can use the "zoom" function on your TV to make the picture "fill" the screen, but you will lose a great deal of resolution in doing so. Also, just FYI, the term "fullscreen" is generally used to describe a 4:3 pan and scan image, not an image anamorphically enhanced for a 16:9 screen.

I don't own the XS955, so I'm taking a guess here re getting analog sound out of the composite audio out jacks on the back of the set.

Somewhere either on your remote or in the menu system there should be an option to select either "Fixed" or "Variable" Audio Out. It sounds to me like your set is currently set to "Variable" Audio Out. If you change this to "Fixed" Audio Out, that should provide a steady level of analog audio out from the composite jacks, no matter what the volume control is set to.

If I'm right, you'll probably get more audio out than the "1" volume control setting is giving you now, perhaps requiring adjustment of your a/v receiver's volume control.

If I'm wrong about this, I'll go back and hide in the SXRD forums. :)

Nope - this isn't a "variable" versus "fixed" problem. I don't use the variable setting, only the fixed. The analog sound is not passed from the TV if the fixed volume number is less than "1".

As noted by "ogbuehi" on page 44 of this thread, this solution seems to work.

Harry

My newbie question for the day...

I've got the Sony KDF-60XS955 at home and it is great! I was watching Star Wars Episode III (widescreen) last night, and I noticed that I had the black bars at the top and bottom of the picture. I thought that since the dvd was anamorphic, it should have filled the entire screen.

What am I missing?

Thanks in advance.

Star Wars films are 2.35 to 1 aspect ratio so you will have black bars if you want to see the movie as it was filmed.

Jim

Nope - this isn't a "variable" versus "fixed" problem. I don't use the variable setting, only the fixed. The analog sound is not passed from the TV if the fixed volume number is less than "1".

As noted by "ogbuehi" on page 44 of this thread, this solution seems to work.

Harry
I'm coming into this a little late...

Are we talking about when using the optical output from the TV?

How do you set the fixed volume to 1?

Edit: I found the answer... but analog channels still don't work via the optical out, correct?

I'm coming into this a little late...

Are we talking about when using the optical output from the TV?

How do you set the fixed volume to 1?

Edit: I found the answer... but analog channels still don't work via the optical out, correct?

Correct, analog channels will only output with analog (R&L RCA) to your receiver.

I "believe" this is what you do: turn the TV speakers on and set the output to variable. Then set the volume to something higher than zero. Then set the output to fixed and turn off the TV speakers. This workaround to get the analog output to work was found by accident and posted in this thread a few pages ago. Apparently the key is setting the volume to something higher than zero.

Jim

Just wondering if anyone has ever heard of a fix for the info banner bug(info banner pops up off and on without any buttons pushed) on these sets? Has anyone ever had it fixed or looked at by a technician and if so what part was exchanged? Firmware update that fixes it? Explanation from Sony? Thanks

Just wondering if anyone has ever heard of a fix for the info banner bug(info banner pops up off and on without any buttons pushed) on these sets? Has anyone ever had it fixed or looked at by a technician and if so what part was exchanged? Firmware update that fixes it? Explanation from Sony? Thanks

Still suffering here too! I figure, since I have an extended warranty, I'd give them time to figure it out, then attack! Fix it or replace it! :D
Problem is I can't generate it on demand! Anyone figure out a sure fire way to pop it??

Not to minimize the problem, but kind of nice knowing over the past several months the banner symptom is about the only problem bugging anyone.

I can't imagine how anyone would be able to get their set to do it in front of a technician. Furthermore, with the randomness of it, how would even a technician go about trying to track it down.

Most likely it's some kind of static electricity, or a minute change in line voltage that causes it. It happens every now and then to us, probably less than ten times total since the summer when we bought the set, but we usually wait the ten or so seconds and it goes away (which seems like an eternity!).

Harry

Yes, except for this "feature" that occasionally reminds me of the time and tv mode, this is the best PTV I've owned (although I have been tempted to talk trade for a new XSBR (I think that's the letter combo). New model seems to have dropped an HDMI port though. I like having 2.

Yes, except for this "feature" that occasionally reminds me of the time and tv mode, this is the best PTV I've owned (although I have been tempted to talk trade for a new XSBR (I think that's the letter combo). New model seems to have dropped an HDMI port though. I like having 2.

Do you mean the XSRD? That's the new XBR class and uses the same shell as the XS955. It has 2 HDMI and added Firewire.

Yes Joe, that's the one. Should have known better than to trust the list of equipment on the Best Buy card in front of the TV. Firewire is something that should have been on the current series. Thanks for the info.

I bought a demo model of the XS which had been used on the floor for about 6 months or so. It developed a red crop circle so I returned it not wanting it to have such a major repair done that soon after buying it. I have to say that I traded my demo model XS back in for an A20 thinking it would be the same or close to the same quality but I was wrong. I am likely going to have the retail store have the red dust spot fixed on the XS, get it back and return this A20. The shop told me that they would reduce the price further due to the repair. There just seems to be some detail and build quality lacking with the A20. I was watching Letterman the other night on the XS and it was the best picture I have ever saw, the A20 just can't match it. It also seems like there is some kind of sparkly effect(I don't know if it SDE or what)that is much more prevelant on the A20 compared to the XS model. The sound on the XS is also kicked up quite a few notches on the XS over the A20. The A20 I received had a huge red blob on it to top it off where the XS was perfect(the XS was the first Sony I have bought that didn't have either red or green blobs and the geometry was perfect as well). To sum it up I would rather have a six month old demo of the XS over a brand new A20 any day.

Just thought I'd jump in with a personal 'green spots' experience w/ my 55" Sony. It developed two silver dollar-sized spots after about 4 months of use. I found on another site some folks with the same problem (there might be some mention here on AVS, but nothing as specific as the other site/thread), and one fellow had success in getting it fixed. Short story--dust in the optical engine, most probably at time of manufacture. Taken apart and cleaned, no more spots. The service tech on that call said he'd had other folks w/ similar problems and felt the cause must've been the same. So I scheduled my service call w/ high hopes...

My unit was under extended warranty (full labor/parts) w/ Abt Chicago, the first tech came out and I talked him through it...he left having blown dust out of the cabinet but the spots remained. He said he appreciated the info I'd obtained online, but needed to get in touch w/ Sony. A week + later and a second visit, different technician, he opened up the optical engine, cleaned it...voila, fixed! So pleasant to watch dark scenes w/out green or blue spots.

Just an FYI, if anyone else encounters these issues, it should be a relatively simple and KNOWN fix.

Other than that, and that I too encounter that irritating input/channel pop-up issue...I really love this TV. Oh, and I wish it had deeper blacks (RPLCD issue, I know). Oh, and I wish it had a dedicated PC/SVGA input. So, I guess I'd love the new SXRD sets more, huh? One day...

Had my 55XS955 for a week now. It's everything I expected. Did some SM tweaks last night for 480i and immediately noticed less noise around the subtitle borders(high contrast area). Have not experienced any of teh problems expressed in this thread. No stuck pixel, no loud fan noise and no info banner poping up for no reason. HDTV is stunning, especially last night's PBS. They were showing some paintings and it was breathtaking. It's almost like a painting on my wall. That real!

A couple of discussion points:
1. According to SonyStyle live chat, the lamp is rated 3000-5000 hrs. However, I read somewhere here that it's 8000-10000. Which is correct?
2. I bought the EW from Fry's. It covers even one dead pixel. If this TV needs to be replaced, do you think I will get the new SXRD or A20. In my mind, A20 is not really in the same league as XS955. XS955 aligns more with SXRD than A20 for HDMI, Memory stick viewer and twin view. What do you think?
3. Not much talk about the memory stick viewer on this TV. But man, the picture quality blows me away. I can honestly say it's far better than my Dell and Sony VAIO laptops. The color is unbelieveable and the detail is equally unbelieveable. It's even better than HDTV. I cann't live without that feature now. I think this set must have a dedicated circuitry for displaying memory stick content.

Had my 55XS955 for a week now. It's everything I expected. Did some SM tweaks last night for 480i and immediately noticed less noise around the subtitle borders(high contrast area). Have not experienced any of teh problems expressed in this thread. No stuck pixel, no loud fan noise and no info banner poping up for no reason. HDTV is stunning, especially last night's PBS. They were showing some paintings and it was breathtaking. It's almost like a painting on my wall. That real!

A couple of discussion points:
1. According to SonyStyle live chat, the lamp is rated 3000-5000 hrs. However, I read somewhere here that it's 8000-10000. Which is correct?
2. I bought the EW from Fry's. It covers even one dead pixel. If this TV needs to be replaced, do you think I will get the new SXRD or A20. In my mind, A20 is not really in the same league as XS955. XS955 aligns more with SXRD than A20 for HDMI, Memory stick viewer and twin view. What do you think?
3. Not much talk about the memory stick viewer on this TV. But man, the picture quality blows me away. I can honestly say it's far better than my Dell and Sony VAIO laptops. The color is unbelieveable and the detail is equally unbelieveable. It's even better than HDTV. I cann't live without that feature now. I think this set must have a dedicated circuitry for displaying memory stick content.


Welcome aboard. It is a nice set, isn't it. Even though I had frustrating issues last March, all is well for now. I too believe in EWs on anything this big and expensive. It's cheap insurance, so to speak. The Memory Stick slot is also used to upgrade the firmware, as I needed.

My be your last chance to get a 60xs955...at Costco web site


Sony Grand Wega
60" HDTV LCD Rear Projection Television
$400 Off Reflected In Price
ATSC Tuner, CableCARD Slot
Enhanced Memory Stick Slot
Matching A/V Stand Included

$2,999.99
Item # 938349
Shipping & Handling: $399.99


Valid for orders placed Jan 04----Jan 13,2006

I'm pretty sure that it will be awhile before they would replace your set with another model. I'm pretty sure there is just some warehouse with a bunch of them sitting somewhere. And whose to say they won't be able to replace or fix the broken part? I got my set at BB for that price so I don't see what the big deal at costco is. The memory stick slot is wonderful for viewing high resolution pictures. I haven't tried video or audio yet though.

I'm pretty sure that it will be awhile before they would replace your set with another model. I'm pretty sure there is just some warehouse with a bunch of them sitting somewhere. And whose to say they won't be able to replace or fix the broken part? I got my set at BB for that price so I don't see what the big deal at costco is. The memory stick slot is wonderful for viewing high resolution pictures. I haven't tried video or audio yet though.

The big deal at Costco is the return policy. With all the trouble I went through last March, believe me, on the 3rd try and failure I would have been hauling back the set. Now I see it was worth it but it took some effort to fix what turned out to be a minor problem. I was close to the lemon clause in the BB EW too and was getting ready to demand that, but it finally got fixed.

My be your last chance to get a 60xs955...at Costco web site


Sony Grand Wega
60" HDTV LCD Rear Projection Television
$400 Off Reflected In Price
ATSC Tuner, CableCARD Slot
Enhanced Memory Stick Slot
Matching A/V Stand Included

$2,999.99
Item # 938349
Shipping & Handling: $399.99


Valid for orders placed Jan 04----Jan 13,2006


Too late...all sold out...off the web site.

Hey guys,
I'm about to buy a 55xs955, but the place does not have delivery options. I've heard that plasma sets must be kept vertical when delivered. Is this true for lcdrps as well. Should I not lay it down in my truck. Thanks.

Hey all,

Just wanted to let everyone in the S. Jersey area know that the Sams Club outside of Atlantic City has 5 60XS955's sill in stock for $3,200 INCLUDING the matching Sony stand. Just picked mine up at lunch and currently waiting for 5:00 to go try it out.
They do not ship however.

I'm sure this has been mentioned elsewhere in this thread, but I've usually been unable to get the HDMI input on my 55xs955 recognized by my Scientific Atlanta 8300 HD DVR when I power them on with the DVR's remote -- get an error message stating that the TV isn't HDCP compliant and you have to use component input. Turning off the DVR for a few seconds and then turning it back on usually gets the HDCP handshake to complete successfully. This is a king sized pain when you have several family members who don't understand this concept.
Anyone have a simple solution for this?

I'm sure this has been mentioned elsewhere in this thread, but I've usually been unable to get the HDMI input on my 55xs955 recognized by my Scientific Atlanta 8300 HD DVR when I power them on with the DVR's remote -- get an error message stating that the TV isn't HDCP compliant and you have to use component input. Turning off the DVR for a few seconds and then turning it back on usually gets the HDCP handshake to complete successfully. This is a king sized pain when you have several family members who don't understand this concept.
Anyone have a simple solution for this?

I have basically the same setup: the SA 8300HD w/ the 60XS955 connected via HDMI. Are you using the system power on button on the DVR remote to turn everything on at once or powering them on individually by hitting the TV button then power, then the cable button then power? To be honest I've done it both ways and have never received any HDCP related error messages. I usually turn the TV on first and wait for the lamp to turn on before turning the DVR on. I've seen this suggested to other with the same issue in the 8300HD DVR threads: turn the TV on first, wait 5 seconds or so, then turn on the DVR.

Did you run the setup routine on the 8300HD box to configure the display formats for your TV? Do you have the component video cables or coax hooked up as well? Did you try the other HDMI input on the TV?

I have basically the same setup: the SA 8300HD w/ the 60XS955 connected via HDMI. Are you using the system power on button on the DVR remote to turn everything on at once or powering them on individually by hitting the TV button then power, then the cable button then power? To be honest I've done it both ways and have never received any HDCP related error messages. I usually turn the TV on first and wait for the lamp to turn on before turning the DVR on. I've seen this suggested to other with the same issue in the 8300HD DVR threads: turn the TV on first, wait 5 seconds or so, then turn on the DVR.

Did you run the setup routine on the 8300HD box to configure the display formats for your TV? Do you have the component video cables or coax hooked up as well? Did you try the other HDMI input on the TV?

What about not turning the DVR off? Most leave a DVR on all the time, except Replay 50xx series as the blue light can drive you crazy! :eek:

What about not turning the DVR off? Most leave a DVR on all the time, except Replay 50xx series as the blue light can drive you crazy! :eek:

If you leave it on the 8300HD will shut itself "off" as a power saving measure around 1:00 or 2:00 in the morning - if you happen to be watching that late it will give you a warning message and you can override it by pressing any button on the remote. It doesn't affect any recordings scheduled for that time or in progress, it basically shuts off the display signal to the TV.

Edit: The auto-power off issue and the HDCP issue seem to be related with the 8300HD. From another thread:

"I discovered a post (one of the threads in here) that mentioned setting the timer to turn the STB off/on at specific times after 1am and 6am (the times late at night which most 8300HD's have been configured to power off automatically to "extend" equipment life). I set my timer to turn off the STB at 2:30am and then back on at 6:30am. Ever since setting the timer I have not seen a single HDCP error when powering on my HDTV, regardless of when I power it on during the day. Previously, I'd have to turn my STB on (because it had been powered off at night), and then shut my TV off/on several times until the HDCP error went away. Now, after setting the timer, I no longer have to deal with HDCP errors -- so far I've been HDCP error-free for 3 days."

Well it's good to see you were able to solve the problem before we got to do any real troubleshooting.

Hey guys,
I'm about to buy a 55xs955, but the place does not have delivery options. I've heard that plasma sets must be kept vertical when delivered. Is this true for lcdrps as well. Should I not lay it down in my truck. Thanks.
You can lay it down in your truck without any detriments. I had to flip it upside down and sideways to get it into my basement.

You can lay it down in your truck without any detriments. I had to flip it upside down and sideways to get it into my basement.

We trucked ours 150 miles from the dealership to home in the back of our SUV. It was out of the box and leaning about 45 deg against a bunch of blankets and pillows.
The shippers at Magnolia A/V warehouse in Hayward, CA packed it in for us. Since being set up last March, it's been running perfectly.
I believe the purpose of stressing vertical shipment is to prevent anything from being stacked on top of it. Considering Sony can not account for all the yahoos who might stick it in a UHaul trailer and let it bounce all over they have to adhere to some kind of standard.

Thanks a lot for the replies. Can't wait to get this thing home already.

Thanks a lot for the replies. Can't wait to get this thing home already.

Would love to hear your thoughts once you get it all set up! :cool:

I've had my 60" for about 5 months with only 2 very minor problems.... on rare occassions when I watch a letter box standard def show (or game) in wide mode the mode shifts back into full (normal) mode. Secondly, I do not use a cable card (comcast basic service) and the built in digital tuner did not find all of the local HD/digital channels... namely CBS, FOX, and PBS. After some investigating I found them manually. Other than that works great, looks great. Note: Pro mode, netural color, black corrector off, gamma low or med.

The 55xs that I've been waiting for the store to get for a couple of weeks finally came in. To my surprise, the tv was now $220 cheaper than it was 2 weeks ago. My total came to $2200 (including taxes, 5 year warranty: everything covered except bulb). The tv itself was 2200 2 weeks ago. I'm pretty psyched, and can't wait to pick it up 2nite. I plan on using my friend's pick up truck and putting some blankets under it. Anything I can do to make sure it doesnt move around in the bed of the truck?

That's an excellent price for 55". That's the one I have had since last April and for the most part have been very happy with the picture and sound.

After spending the weekend w/the 55xs955, the tv is much better than I thought it would be. I was going from a 34 inch ws tube tv, and expecting to see a slight decline in quality. (crt vs lcd). The tv is incredible at home, and the instore source does not do it justice (I thought I had brought home the new 1080p sxrd).
I dont notice any sde or sse (my eyes dont tend to pick it up, so I'm happy), and only saw some slight pixelation when watching million dollar baby from on demand.

HD is incredible. I watched my beloved pats lose to the broncos on sat night, but the beauty of the tv made it a little easier to swallow.

Also, I was able to find a floor model sony stand from best buy that was priced wrong (It was labeled as this year's sony stand for the 55+ inch tvs on sale for $483, but it was actually last years), and the computer showed that it should sell on clearance for $99 (orig retail $499). So for a total price of $2255 (had $50 gift cards from xmas to best buy), I got the 55xs and the sony stand.

I do have 3 questions though. Does the lamp use up hours when its in standby, should I shut off the main power at night?

Also, do you all just dust the back of the tv once a week or so, with a normal house duster (talks in the manual about keeping the back clean).

I was thinking of getting a calibration dvd, but I'm not a expert or a technician. Am I better off just using the thx optimizer that I have on some of my dvds. Also, do most of you have different settings for sports vs dvd vs normal viewing. Thanks a lot.

If the tv is off, the lamp is not being used. If you are using the tv at night, the lamp is sitll being used. I dust my set off once in awhile but I don't think it will affect performance unless it's getting inside. I tried thx calibration and ran into to 2 problems. 1)Unless you have some reference point, some of those color or sharpness settings are pretty hard to figure out. 2)If you do figure out what the dvd exactly wants, the change was barely noticable. I looked at the price of calibration dvd's and figured it was better spent towards paying an ISF tech to do it. He was able to calibrate each input to each resolution provided by individual source. So you will want to have different settings for each input. Now a different setting for sports vs. a movie from the same source would be pretty hard to do. One, you have so many different type of sports shot in hd and sd that you wouldn't be able to set your set for them all. And two, now you'll have to have a setting for sports, and movies and stuff. You'll be doing way too much switching to enjoy. Just adjust (get them adjusted) for each particular source.

After spending the weekend w/the 55xs955, the tv is much better than I thought it would be. I was going from a 34 inch ws tube tv, and expecting to see a slight decline in quality. (crt vs lcd). The tv is incredible at home, and the instore source does not do it justice (I thought I had brought home the new 1080p sxrd).
I dont notice any sde or sse (my eyes dont tend to pick it up, so I'm happy), and only saw some slight pixelation when watching million dollar baby from on demand........

Congrats on the set. I think you'll love it. Had mine for 1 year now and after initial tweaks just sat and watched. No Optimizer or DVD, just my preferences. I did lots of tweaking, and reading here and elsewhere - including via component, hdmi, optical, coax, etc.

Regarding pixelation, I've learned to trust the set first, and look elsewhere for problems. The broadcast, provider, stb, but not the Sony. Its a great big magnifier of other problems (e.g., SD picture, but almost never the root cause). I say that because I'm pleased with the black levels, details, etc. and not obsessed with perfection. Obsessed is the key word there, because my PQ standards are extremely high.

After spending the weekend w/the 55xs955, the tv is much better than I thought it would be. I was going from a 34 inch ws tube tv, and expecting to see a slight decline in quality. (crt vs lcd). The tv is incredible at home, and the instore source does not do it justice (I thought I had brought home the new 1080p sxrd).
I dont notice any sde or sse (my eyes dont tend to pick it up, so I'm happy), and only saw some slight pixelation when watching million dollar baby from on demand.

HD is incredible. I watched my beloved pats lose to the broncos on sat night, but the beauty of the tv made it a little easier to swallow.

Also, I was able to find a floor model sony stand from best buy that was priced wrong (It was labeled as this year's sony stand for the 55+ inch tvs on sale for $483, but it was actually last years), and the computer showed that it should sell on clearance for $99 (orig retail $499). So for a total price of $2255 (had $50 gift cards from xmas to best buy), I got the 55xs and the sony stand.

I do have 3 questions though. Does the lamp use up hours when its in standby, should I shut off the main power at night?

Also, do you all just dust the back of the tv once a week or so, with a normal house duster (talks in the manual about keeping the back clean).

I was thinking of getting a calibration dvd, but I'm not a expert or a technician. Am I better off just using the thx optimizer that I have on some of my dvds. Also, do most of you have different settings for sports vs dvd vs normal viewing. Thanks a lot.

Congrats on the purchase! If you want a chaep calibrator. Digital Video Essentials will do the job reasonably well and usually can be found under $20. I found the default Pro level was very close to what I worked out with DVE, though. The set can produce some jaw dropping visuals, do you have Discovery HDT? :D

Yes, I do have discovery channel HD. I'll take a look at that and see how everything looks.

I think overall, I'm happy w/my settings. I'll play w/it some more, but hd looked stunning at the setting I put, and underworld (a dark movie) was in hd on tv and looked very good. I was able to differentiate b/t the blacks and am very happy with it.

TNTHD is one of the better sources for HD material because of their lack of compression. I watched The first two matrix's on HBO in hd and tnt and TNT had much less compression. Starz and showtime aren't too bad. I found INHD1 and 2, Discovery, and Universal to have just too much compression.

I was reading some reviews on amazon. Do you think this dvd might be overkill for me though. I'm not a technican, nor an expert in AV, but i would like to get my tv to give me the best pq possible.

Congrats on the purchase! If you want a chaep calibrator. Digital Video Essentials will do the job reasonably well and usually can be found under $20. I found the default Pro level was very close to what I worked out with DVE, though. The set can produce some jaw dropping visuals, do you have Discovery HDT? :D

If the tv is off, the lamp is not being used. If you are using the tv at night, the lamp is sitll being used. I dust my set off once in awhile but I don't think it will affect performance unless it's getting inside. I tried thx calibration and ran into to 2 problems. 1)Unless you have some reference point, some of those color or sharpness settings are pretty hard to figure out. 2)If you do figure out what the dvd exactly wants, the change was barely noticable. I looked at the price of calibration dvd's and figured it was better spent towards paying an ISF tech to do it. He was able to calibrate each input to each resolution provided by individual source. So you will want to have different settings for each input. Now a different setting for sports vs. a movie from the same source would be pretty hard to do. One, you have so many different type of sports shot in hd and sd that you wouldn't be able to set your set for them all. And two, now you'll have to have a setting for sports, and movies and stuff. You'll be doing way too much switching to enjoy. Just adjust (get them adjusted) for each particular source.

What I meant by shutting the power off, I mean when I go to bed. Is 18 hours or so consider too long a time to be in standby.

I was reading some reviews on amazon. Do you think this dvd might be overkill for me though. I'm not a technican, nor an expert in AV, but i would like to get my tv to give me the best pq possible.

Only thing easier is use your eyes. If you like it, you're done. Some things take effort some don't.

What I meant by shutting the power off, I mean when I go to bed. Is 18 hours or so consider too long a time to be in standby.

You sleep 18 hours a night/day? :eek:

I was including my work day in the 18 hours. Also, just another quick ?. I heard some people say that they they think the scaler on the tv is better than most dvd players. I set my dvd player back to 480i, is there anything I have to do to the tv to make it upscale, or does it do it automatically. Thanks.

I was including my work day in the 18 hours. Also, just another quick ?. I heard some people say that they they think the scaler on the tv is better than most dvd players. I set my dvd player back to 480i, is there anything I have to do to the tv to make it upscale, or does it do it automatically. Thanks.

OK now I get the 18 hours. I think it's fine to leave the set on, it'll take care of itself. What I do reccomend is a UPS, I've had a few blackouts here and it gives you some time to turn the set off properly.
I have the Panny S97S so I went the outside scsler route, my old regular DVD player (Toshiba w/component 480i) didn't hold a candle to the 97S. BUT if you have a progressive DVD it may do fine and not be woth getting anything else as we wait for the DVD Wars to be over.

I set my dvd player back to 480i, is there anything I have to do to the tv to make it upscale, or does it do it automatically. Thanks.

Automatic.

fyi, every video input will be scaled to 768p (or 788p, depending on who you listen to) because the set is locked at that display resolution. Most digital monitors have one resolution, the native resolution, and will scale all inputs to that resolution.

I didnt tamper too much with the progressive scan, but I did notice when I put it on, the screen got much darker. I'll play with it some more, but it was a pretty impressive screen when the tv did the scaling, so I think that's going to be how I leave it.

What I meant by shutting the power off, I mean when I go to bed. Is 18 hours or so consider too long a time to be in standby.


I've left the set on for more than 48 hours straight sometimes. Of course that's offset by the fact that set may not get turned on for a week. The performance of my set doesn't seem to be affected by either of those situations.

I have had the 60955 for about 4 months now and I can tell you this set is super nice. Performance and looks.
I chose this over the newer Sony model because of the extra HDMI port.
Now I have my Sat and DVD player hooked via HDMI cable.
I also have my gaming/internet pc hooked via s-video so I can surf the web while reclining.
I got this TV delivered with a 3 year ext warranty for $3100 off the internet via a dealer I had been researching for almost 6 months.
Love it!

Congratulations on your purchase. I'm glad to see you are enjoying this wonderful fine set. Happy viewing.

Had a weird issue with my 60XS955 yesterday. I usually turn the TV on first, wait for the lamp to warm up, then turn on my SA 8300HD DVR. I turned the TV on, and when the banner came up on the screen, the colors were reversed (the banner background was white and the letters grey, instead of the other way around) and the letters were very blurry. I turned the cable box on and the screen was very static-y and the bars on the sides of the screen were red. I shut the TV and cable box off, pulled the power cords on both and waited a few minutes. I plugged everything back in, did a re-boot of the DVR, and all was back to normal.

Has anyone seen anything like this before? Is it more likely a TV issue, or a DVR issue?

Had a weird issue with my 60XS955 yesterday. I usually turn the TV on first, wait for the lamp to warm up, then turn on my SA 8300HD DVR. I turned the TV on, and when the banner came up on the screen, the colors were reversed (the banner background was white and the letters grey, instead of the other way around) and the letters were very blurry. I turned the cable box on and the screen was very static-y and the bars on the sides of the screen were red. I shut the TV and cable box off, pulled the power cords on both and waited a few minutes. I plugged everything back in, did a re-boot of the DVR, and all was back to normal.

Has anyone seen anything like this before? Is it more likely a TV issue, or a DVR issue?

Sorta sounds like the DVR. If it was a Moxi, then I'd KNOW it's the DVR. ;)

Hello everyone...... I am hoping to find the info I need to close a deal on a XS955...

The local SAM's CLUB as it for 3199 which includes the Sony stand.

My dilema is an extended warranty... I can get a 4 year for $250 from Sams but it DOES NOT cover the lamp....

Has anyone purchased a separate warranty from where they purchased their T.V. (Example RMT55000 by Warrantech)?

It wont last long, Sony is a great MFG, but I want peace of mind on a warranty.

Appreciate everyone's assistance.

Hello everyone...... I am hoping to find the info I need to close a deal on a XS955...

The local SAM's CLUB as it for 3199 which includes the Sony stand.

My dilema is an extended warranty... I can get a 4 year for $250 from Sams but it DOES NOT cover the lamp....

Has anyone purchased a separate warranty from where they purchased their T.V. (Example RMT55000 by Warrantech)?

It wont last long, Sony is a great MFG, but I want peace of mind on a warranty.

Appreciate everyone's assistance.

Sony is NOT so great, get an extended warranty. $250 for 4 years with out the bulb is about a push on $400 with, as mine is from BestBuy.

Thanks Joe 221.

Anyone else familiar with Sam's extended warranties? Do they include in-home service... FREE adjustmets etc

Any other 3rd party warranties?

Hello everyone...... I am hoping to find the info I need to close a deal on a XS955...

The local SAM's CLUB as it for 3199 which includes the Sony stand.

My dilema is an extended warranty... I can get a 4 year for $250 from Sams but it DOES NOT cover the lamp....

Has anyone purchased a separate warranty from where they purchased their T.V. (Example RMT55000 by Warrantech)?

It wont last long, Sony is a great MFG, but I want peace of mind on a warranty.

Appreciate everyone's assistance.

Best not delay to long on your purchased as the xs955 is out of stock at most stores.

Majormoose,

I have found the replacement bulb for $200 at VANN's. Most bulb replacement warranties are $200-$300 and are usually for 3 years. Depending on your television use you will probably get 2-3 years out of a bulb. What your really paying for in a warranty is for someone to come out and install it for you or replacement of a defective bulb. I bought my 60XS955 from Sam's not long ago and had the same concerns as you but I now feel they were unwarrented. I have a friend who's GWIII has been on approximately 5 hrs a day for the past 2 years and is still on the original bulb. I am considering buying one from Vann's now so that I can replace it quickly if something does happen but I'm not sure if they have a shelf life issue.

Good luck, but act fast they are not going to last long at that price.

The warranty I got from BB covers absolutely anything going wrong with the set. If the set starts getting dimmer because of bulb issues the bulb is replaced. If I get one dead pixel the set is fixed. If the set can't be fixed I get a replacement set. If it's out of stock I get the next upgrade set. That warranty doesn't sound so great from Sam's.

Has anyone replaced a bulb in the 55/60xs955 themselves and live to tell the tale?

What problems do you anticipate? I removed mine and reinstalled it just to do it....no big deal.

What problems do you anticipate?

No problems at all... just curious if there was anything to it.

Is it a matter of removing a section from the back and twisting in a lightbulb with your bare hands? Or is there more to it and/or special tools needed?

Has anyone with a Best Buy service plan had them change a bulb? How long was the TV out of service while waiting for the technician to come out? If it takes them a couple days to come out I might opt to have a spare lamp handy and do it myself.

No problems at all... just curious if there was anything to it.

Is it a matter of removing a section from the back and twisting in a lightbulb with your bare hands? Or is there more to it and/or special tools needed?

Has anyone with a Best Buy service plan had them change a bulb? How long was the TV out of service while waiting for the technician to come out? If it takes them a couple days to come out I might opt to have a spare lamp handy and do it myself.

The manual is very clear. It's simply a square module that is removed, Actual bulb does not have to be removed from assembly. Make sure display is off at least 20 minutes before proceeding.
You replace it with an identical module (not touching lamp surface) and reinstall. Process takes about 3 minutes, even if you are very slow and cautious.

I understand Sony will send out a replacement fedex if you are still under warranty.
I have not heard that they require you to send the old one back.
Not sure how it is handled by optional service plans. I am sure they vary.

Hello Jagman,

appreciate the comments. You are right that they are disappearing quick. In fact, other than the floor model, my local SAM's club only has one left... It's mine.

I also learned by reading Sam's Warranty and their return policy. As long as I have the original receipt, I can return the TV at ANYTIME!!! for a full refund! With Sam's Warranty only 265 for 5 years (MFG 1yr and then Sam's 4 yrs), paying for the first Bulb would put me about egual to a BB warranty of 3 or 4 yrs (cost is approx USD400).

Appreciate everyone's feedback and this is the third most expensive purchase in my life (House - Truck - TV)...

Next I will be looking for Home Theater sets around $500

Appreciate everyone's feedback and this is the third most expensive purchase in my life (House - Truck - TV)...

Yep, and it will probably be the third most life-enhancing purchases you've made - in the same order. ;)

My advice... the first thing you should do when you initially turn it on is to change the video setting from "vivid" (the usual default) to "standard". Once you watch some HD programming then switch to Pro and tweak the video settings. Good HD test shows: CSI, American Idol, Lost, 24, big sports games like the Superbowl.

Congrats on your purchase! Let us know when you get it set up what you think.

I've had my KDF55XS955 since last March and have noticed of late some anomalies. The anomalies take the form of interlacing around rapidly moving or high contrast areas. I've noticed this on both HD and SD channels. I've shut off all of the advanced adjustments to see if one of them was the cause but it still is there. I have not looked at DVD's to date but plan on it maybe this week. My Pioneer deck is currently outputting in progressive mode but I will look at both progressive and interlaced and see if I can see the "problem" Has anyone else noticed this type of artifact?

Thanks
Joe

hey joeren. if possible describe the "interlacing" artifacts you've been seeing a little bit more. i've had my 55XS955 since last March as well. do the artifacts look like "scan lines" in motion scenes?

explain a bit more pal.

Carmine.

Yes noizemaker, exactly like scan lines. They appear briefly, most noticeably on objects in motion, like a persons lips while talking or a fast changing scene that has a higher contrast area.

I've had my KDF55XS955 since last March and have noticed of late some anomalies. The anomalies take the form of interlacing around rapidly moving or high contrast areas. I've noticed this on both HD and SD channels. I've shut off all of the advanced adjustments to see if one of them was the cause but it still is there. I have not looked at DVD's to date but plan on it maybe this week. My Pioneer deck is currently outputting in progressive mode but I will look at both progressive and interlaced and see if I can see the "problem" Has anyone else noticed this type of artifact?

Thanks
Joe

Here's what I notice. On the opening of the Tonight Show, when the camera flies around the audience the image pixelates. I think it just might be a limitation of the technology and not a fixable problem.

Yes noizemaker, exactly like scan lines. They appear briefly, most noticeably on objects in motion, like a persons lips while talking or a fast changing scene that has a higher contrast area.

i've noticed the same joeren. don't think it's a problem with the display, just a flaw with the technology with fast motion.

Carmine.

Hi Joe221
I'm familure with pixalationHi Joe221
I'm familiar with pixelation but that issue is no doubt an issue with Time Warner and their signal compression to save bandwidth. Believe me, the HD signal could be much improved. When I get some free time I'll troubleshoot with the DVD player and the DVE disk. Right now I'm not using the XS's de-interlacer with DVDs. Maybe that's why I really didn't notice it with DVDs yet. I'm hoping it is the crummy signal. Stay tuned.

Joe

How will I know when the bulb is a problem?

Within the last two weeks, I've noticed the picture (through Directv) is slightly less clear and against a dark background, I notice a snow effect. It's not a huge difference, but just enough that I notice it relative to how my picture looked a couple of weeks ago.

I'm just not sure if it's an issue with the Sony or with Directv, but it hasn't always been like that.

We are looking at the XS955 with stand at Sams Club and the SXRD - there is a price difference of around $1000. Is there a big enough difference at 12' to justify the additional $1K? Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks,

Amy

We are looking at the XS955 with stand at Sams Club and the SXRD - there is a price difference of around $1000. Is there a big enough difference at 12' to justify the additional $1K? Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks,

Amy

If you got the money the SXRD is 1080p :D , but they're BOTH very nice sets!

SXRD outputs 1080p but does not accept a 1080p input.

my 2 cents.
Carmine.

SXRD outputs 1080p but does not accept a 1080p input.

my 2 cents.
Carmine.

Does anything, right now? I believe it will take 1080i and scale to 1080p which should still be quite nice.

The SXRD has higher resolution and has a USB connection port. I plan on buying it as an additional set. The interlaced artifacts are not from the set. They are from compression or bad scaling of telecined shows. If you get universal HD and watch The district you will get a good example of it. If you get ABC news you shouldn't see any of that fast motion interlaced artifact crap. I've done a synopsis of what HD channels and what shows have that annoying artifact and what channels also have problems with pixelation. The only HD channels I don't get are the HDNET1 and HDnet2 channels.

How will I know when the bulb is a problem?



I believe the set will dim before the bulb goes as a warning to replace the bulb.

I don't think a bad bulb will do what you describe.

Thanks for the feedback. It must be a D* issue or a problem with my eyes.

I've been throughly enjoying my KDF-55XS955 for a few months now, but having just purchased a DVDO iScan VP30 processor, I'm finding I need to know some specifics about the set that I'm ashamed to say I don't know. Hoping someone here can clarify these points for me (and sorry if they're covered elsewhere, nothing succinct turned up in my searches):

Here's what I'm wanting to know:

1) What is the native display format? 720p or 1080i? I've assumed it scales everything to 1080i, and that is what I should feed it if I don't want further processing done by the Sony--or am I incorrect?

2) The display operates on a 60 Hz video signal, correct? That's standard for ATSC/American HD displays?

3) The odd resolution of the Sony panels (1368 x 768) confounds me, and I've read it sort of confounds the video processor as well. What is the best output rez for the VP30 so it does most if not all of the scaling instead of the Sony... I know I can zoom and repo on the VP30, but wanted to know what the base resolution should be to minimize any processing artifacts.

4) What is the color space used by the display (if I'm using the HDMI input), and is it 4:4:4 or 4:2:2?

Thanks. I just want to optimize my scaler settings and quickly realized there was a LOT that I didn't know about my HDTV.

I've been throughly enjoying my KDF-55XS955 for a few months now, but having just purchased a DVDO iScan VP30 processor, I'm finding I need to know some specifics about the set that I'm ashamed to say I don't know. Hoping someone here can clarify these points for me (and sorry if they're covered elsewhere, nothing succinct turned up in my searches):

Here's what I'm wanting to know:

1) What is the native display format? 720p or 1080i? I've assumed it scales everything to 1080i, and that is what I should feed it if I don't want further processing done by the Sony--or am I incorrect?

2) The display operates on a 60 Hz video signal, correct? That's standard for ATSC/American HD displays?

3) The odd resolution of the Sony panels (1368 x 768) confounds me, and I've read it sort of confounds the video processor as well. What is the best output rez for the VP30 so it does most if not all of the scaling instead of the Sony... I know I can zoom and repo on the VP30, but wanted to know what the base resolution should be to minimize any processing artifacts.

4) What is the color space used by the display (if I'm using the HDMI input), and is it 4:4:4 or 4:2:2?

Thanks. I just want to optimize my scaler settings and quickly realized there was a LOT that I didn't know about my HDTV.

I know it's native 720p, but is actually 768p. The rest :confused:

These sets are native 788p not 768p. I don't know if you can set a scaler to that scan rate. If you hook up a scaler via HDMI the tv will usually not allow the sending device to send that resolution as it is not supported by the tv. I had this problem with an upconvert dvd player (that's how I found out the exact true resolution of the set) that I tried to set to 768p, but the player would not allow me to do it. I don't think think 4:4:4 and those numbers are used for color spacing. Those look more like cadences that film was transferred over to when recorded onto a dvd.

These sets are native 788p not 768p.

This is an unresolved debate on this board. But it's either 768p or 788p, depending on what source you believe. It's been said that "788p" is too oddball of a resolution to be accurate and must be a misprint in Sony literature somewhere. 768p seems more likely for a widescreen digital display, but I can't confirm one way or the other.

I don't know if you can set a scaler to that scan rate.

Correct - this set is fixed at 768p or 788p (see above), but doesn't accept either of those resolutions for input. In other words, 1:1 pixel mapping is impossible with this set.

With that said, excellent results can be had with both 720p and 1080i - experiment and see which you like the best, if you can even tell a difference.

I don't think think 4:4:4 and those numbers are used for color spacing.

4:4:4 is indeed color spacing (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/YUV_4:4:4), but I believe it pertains to professional video production and not consumer displays. Could be wrong here on this fact... anyone?

[QUOTE=DaverJ]This is an unresolved debate on this board. But it's either 768p or 788p, depending on what source you believe. It's been said that "788p" is too oddball of a resolution to be accurate and must be a misprint in Sony literature somewhere. 768p seems more likely for a widescreen digital display, but I can't confirm one way or the other.


This is a resolved debate. The pixel count in the manual and on the website is 1092168. Try dividing 768 into it and you get a non-integer. 1368x788 gives you the exact pixel count hence 788p. It's not a misprint because you can't find it anywhere that's officially supported by Sony that the set's resolution is 1366x768. In fact I called Sony themselves to find out and they couldn't tell me because they are not allowed to state as a fact what they haven't printed. Yes, it's an odd resolution and that's why you can't find the exact resolution of this set on Sony's website or the manual. Samsung had to compute what resolution you could possibly have to match the pixel count. That's also why the set doesn't accept 768p, that's not the resolution of the set.

This is a resolved debate. The pixel count in the manual and on the website is 1092168. Try dividing 768 into it and you get a non-integer. 1368x788 gives you the exact pixel count hence 788p. It's not a misprint because you can't find it anywhere that's officially supported by Sony that the set's resolution is 1366x768. In fact I called Sony themselves to find out and they couldn't tell me because they are not allowed to state as a fact what they haven't printed. Yes, it's an odd resolution and that's why you can't find the exact resolution of this set on Sony's website or the manual. Samsung had to compute what resolution you could possibly have to match the pixel count. That's also why the set doesn't accept 768p, that's not the resolution of the set.

I'm pretty sure you are right, but there are others that argue the 1092168 is a misprint based on the 788p. I'm not arguing that - I'm fine with either 768p or 788p. In fact, I would like to think it is the higher 788p pixel count.

But that doesn't change the fact that the set will not accept either 768p or 788p as an input. So the fact that the set doesn't accept 768p as an input isn't proof that it isn't displaying that resolution.

But thanks for the correction and I will submit I shouldn't keep propagating the 768p debate based on non-information and rumors of a misprint. If asked I will state that the set is 788p based on Sony's published spec of 1092168 pixel count unless I can get firm evidence to the contrary.

But that doesn't change the fact that the set will not accept either 768p or 788p as an input. So the fact that the set doesn't accept 768p as an input isn't proof that it isn't displaying that resolution.



That's correct, and why outboard scalers can only be used at 720p with the Sony.
I don't know who has witnessed it with their own eyes (or how, probably a different display), but the consensus is you would be hard-pressed to see a difference you could appreciate. And I thought it was 768X1366, but since it's Tuesday, it may be different. :)

I'm glad that I wasn't the only one thinking that this set has an odd panel resolution and that there are facts to back that up. I'll set up the VP30 to output 720p vs the 1080i as I have it and see which looks better (if I can tell the difference). What do folks think the best template resolution would be (1920 x 1080 or 1080 x 720?), seeing that the Sony apparently HAS to do some internal scaling no matter what? Right now I'd think 'bigger is better' but I could be way off base.

As to the color space issue being relagated to professional equipment, I can see that being the case, but I would think there has to be an ideal choice matching the color space and signal processing of the Sony's LCD/video subsystem. Anyone have an idea...or is it just load up some color bars/smpte screens and see what looks best?

Thanks again. Once I get this set up, I'll post my observations as I have a chance.

I think I answered as to why the set won't accept 768p before. If you connect any device via hdmi, some communication protocol built in the set disables 768p as a resolution that can be sent to the set. I don't know why Sony programmed that into the tv but that is why 768p isn't a selectable option with HD sources hooked up with an HDMI. You can work around that issue one of two ways 1)Connect via DVI which ain't gonna happen on this particular model of tv or 2)Try to send the signal via component cables. I was able to hack my dvd player to upconvert via component and the 768p resolution now became an available option. Unfortunately I had the DVD player hooked up to my Samsung HDcrt so I haven't tested the 768p resolution via component on my Sony lcdrp. I'm just being lazy (already have it hooked up with HDMI and I haven't had the urge to swap out cables)

I'm just being lazy (already have it hooked up with HDMI and I haven't had the urge to swap out cables)


And I'm too lazy to find the link that goes to a block diagram of the Sony input circuitry. It was on one of the earlier UMR calibration or GWIV topics,...But if I remember correctly HDMI takes the same analog path of components, following D/A conversion.

Hmm... Looks like I'll have to a do quick experiment to A)See if something is missing from that picture of the circuit, B)See if that schematic is just plain false, or C)Confirm the schematic but eliminate the only other solution the guy with scaler had with trying to input 768p into the set. I'll try it this weekend.

Keep in mind this is a 2004 HDTV display with built-in tuners and Cablecard. It was designed to be a great looking and simple to operate consumer HDTV.

Sony did not intend for this to be a computer display. It's purpose is to display SD/HD Television and SD/HD display devices (DVD, Video games, Cable boxes, PVRs) in the popular resolutions, i.e. 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i. Oh... and digital pictures via memorystick.

Anything beyond those would add cost to the set and complicate the UI. Also, because of the higher-resolution 788p display anything non-standard might not look or work right, frustrating or disappointing the user.

We are looking at the XS955 with stand at Sams Club and the SXRD - there is a price difference of around $1000. Is there a big enough difference at 12' to justify the additional $1K? Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks,

Amy

I've enjoyed my 60XS955 for the last four months - great picture. Unfortunately my tuner died & had to be replaced. In discussing the two sets with service rep, he said that in his opinion the XS has a better HD display than the SXRD. Of course he may have just said that to please a customer, but in comparing the two side by side I'd have to agree..... some bias talking there! For the difference in price, if you primarily view HD, I'd say the XS is the better buy.

Charlie

I've enjoyed my 60XS955 for the last four months - great picture. Unfortunately my tuner died & had to be replaced. In discussing the two sets with service rep, he said that in his opinion the XS has a better HD display than the SXRD. Of course he may have just said that to please a customer, but in comparing the two side by side I'd have to agree..... some bias talking there! For the difference in price, if you primarily view HD, I'd say the XS is the better buy.

Charlie

Huh? I've seen the SXRD but not side by side with the XS955. 1080p vs 720p. I don't think so. :eek:

I've had the KDF60XS955 for over a year now. Love the picture!

Tonight, I noticed there was a problem with the color shading/continuity. Cartoons do not display this problem, as any color on the screen is uniform.

With a real picture, where colors are not uniform, all the color shading/continuity are not smooth, but banded. Instead of a light blue sky, for instance, the sky shows up as several shades of blue. It nearly looks like "wood grain".

I tried several different sources (cable, DVD, Tivo) and they exhibit the same problem.

Anyone else face this issue yet? :(

I know how to check lamp hours, how does one reset them?

would their be any reason to purchase the KDF55XS955 over the newer A10, neglecting the obvious size difference?

would their be any reason to purchase the KDF55XS955 over the newer A10, neglecting the obvious size difference?

If you can find the XS, I think most here would argue the XS is far superior to the A20 model. The only up choice is the SXRD. The reasons are many I'll start with 2 HDMI and picture quality.

I know how to check lamp hours, how does one reset them?

Answering my own question: You hit mute then enter to reset lamp hours.

If you can find the XS, I think most here would argue the XS is far superior to the A20 model. The only up choice is the SXRD. The reasons are many I'll start with 2 HDMI and picture quality.

Looking at specs on sonystyle.com, I fail to see what would make the XS 'far superior' to the A20. If anything, they took what was the flagship for the GWIVs and made it 'standard equipment', which is not a bad thing.

If you can find the XS, I think most here would argue the XS is far superior to the A20 model. The only up choice is the SXRD. The reasons are many I'll start with 2 HDMI and picture quality.

Right, but is it superior (barring size of course) to the A10?
I understand this answer might not exist, but since it is impossible to compare the two in stores I have to ask.

Right, but is it superior (barring size of course) to the A10?
I understand this answer might not exist, but since it is impossible to compare the two in stores I have to ask.


Personally, I suspect comparing the A10 with the A20 will satisfy both questions. And there is no way to know which one YOU will like better.

Just a warning to all Sony GWIV owners, careful ordering lamps (and possibly other parts) from other than Sony. So far I found 3 internet stores that charge from $245 to $265 for the XL-2200 lamp compared with Sony's price of $200.

Just a quick question for those who know. Is it worth $1K to upgrade to the SXRD? We have issues with black levels on DVDs but HD is stunning. Is the difference that noticeable?

Thanks in advace for your inputs

M&A

Hello all... hoping someone can help me narrow down an issue. I have the KDF55XS955 and pretty much all of my equipment (Motorola Moxi, PS2, XBox and Gamecube) are running to it component connection via a Joytech 240C AV switcher. It's a nice piece, but I'm having a serious problem with some games (on the PS2, sometimes on the Cube) losing the picture momentarily... sometimes, it's just a second-the screen goes black, though the audio keeps playing, then comes back on. I'm also searching for issues on the Joytech, but wondered if anyone else had experienced this kind of picture drop-out.
TIA, Dan

it's just a second-the screen goes black, though the audio keeps playing, then comes back on. I'm also searching for issues on the Joytech, but wondered if anyone else had experienced this kind of picture drop-out.
TIA, Dan

Weird... I remember this being an common complaint and I have seen in a couple times when I first got the set - happening on various inputs with different devices (DVD, games, Tivo).

Strangely, I haven't seen it in probably a half year. I don't know what changed... I've messed with equipment, changed the stand, etc.. and now the screen doesn't momentarily go black. A popular theory was power fluctuations. The only thing of note that's changed about my setup is I switched my DirecTivo to an HD model and are using the HDMI input instead of component. However, I'm still using component for games, including through a video switcher, and my screen hasn't blanked for a long time.

:confused:

So I don't have a solution and have no idea if it's the switcher or not. But it has been mentioned before and I can testify that I've seen it happen.

Good luck with searching for a solution.

Weird... I remember this being an common complaint and I have seen in a couple times when I first got the set - happening on various inputs with different devices (DVD, games, Tivo).

Strangely, I haven't seen it in probably a half year. I don't know what changed... I've messed with equipment, changed the stand, etc.. and now the screen doesn't momentarily go black. A popular theory was power fluctuations. The only thing of note that's changed about my setup is I switched my DirecTivo to an HD model and are using the HDMI input instead of component. However, I'm still using component for games, including through a video switcher, and my screen hasn't blanked for a long time.

:confused:

So I don't have a solution and have no idea if it's the switcher or not. But it has been mentioned before and I can testify that I've seen it happen.

Good luck with searching for a solution.
Well, I appreciate the insight... at least it's been seen. It's strange, because some things work fine... the digital cable works, the Xbox is fine. The Gamecube is okay... the PS2 is really bad. I've moved things, thinking it could be interference, and tried different inputs, but to no avail. I wonder if it could be based around the picture itself... maybe it's only with games that aren't progressive scan. Oh well, I'll keep trying.

It's a nice piece, but I'm having a serious problem with some games (on the PS2, sometimes on the Cube) losing the picture momentarily... sometimes, it's just a second-the screen goes black, though the audio keeps playing, then comes back on.
I have had the same problem with my 60XS955. I too have those three consoles, all using component cables. I'm using the Pelican PL-957 to switch between them.

It only happens to me while playing the PS2.. so I figured it was a PS2 issue. I have never seen the Xbox or Gamecube do it.

I have had the same problem with my 60XS955. I too have those three consoles, all using component cables. I'm using the Pelican PL-957 to switch between them.

It only happens to me while playing the PS2.. so I figured it was a PS2 issue. I have never seen the Xbox or Gamecube do it.
The Gamecube did it at the character select screen in Soul Caliber II, but not during the actual gameplay.

The Gamecube did it at the character select screen in Soul Caliber II, but not during the actual gameplay.
I have that game on the Xbox (since it does 720p... beautiful!) but I don't have it on the gamecube. I've only seen it happen on the PS2.. but it honestly doesn't happen very often at all. Maybe only 10 times over the past year that I've had the set.

I have that game on the Xbox (since it does 720p... beautiful!) but I don't have it on the gamecube. I've only seen it happen on the PS2.. but it honestly doesn't happen very often at all. Maybe only 10 times over the past year that I've had the set.
Hmmm... it's pretty non-stop with the PS2, so I'm worrying that it could be due to the Joytech AV Controller.

I don't want to rain on anybody's parade, but the latest issue of Home Theater mag tested a huge inventory of the most common displays, including A10 and A20 Sonys.
The test had to do with the deinterlacing capability of signals broadcast in 1080i (most common res. used for DTV).
You can read the technical details, but in a nutshell some displays do not fully capture the resolution being input during downconversion to the native res. (720 or 768).
Well, the only Sony's that failed were the A20 and a small A10 model. The A10 (42" and 50") passed successfully, as did the SXRD models. All the information I've been able to gather, the A20 uses the same architecture (and specs) as most GWIV, like the XS, WF, WE.
So while properly tuned displays have dynamite images, some are not even as good as they COULD be. While I am still very pleased with mine, I do feel we have been ripped off a little, and no 'adjustment' to bring it back. It may well be a technological improvement, and not a compromise on the part of Sony or any other manufacturer. The article does get into component selection, but that's difficult to determine with proprietary rules in place.
Keep in mind, this applies to ALL BRANDS, and appears to have been resolved with latest 2006 models. Interesting article, none-the-less.

Ouch.. I need to go get a copy .. just about to pull the trigger for a 55XS955...

Videoaddikt: actually thanks for the heads up, perfect timing although disappointing... anyhooo, what do they mean by "failed"? .. that they failed to produce a picture at all? or they mean poor PQ? I still like the connectivity and the PIP in XS over A10 ...

damn !

in a nutshell some displays do not fully capture the resolution being input during downconversion to the native res. (720 or 768).
Well, the only Sony's that failed were the A20 and a small A10 model. The A10 (42" and 50") passed successfully, as did the SXRD models. All the information I've been able to gather, the A20 uses the same architecture (and specs) as most GWIV, like the XS, WF, WE.

Ouch.. I need to go get a copy .. just about to pull the trigger for a 55XS955...

Videoaddikt: actually thanks for the heads up, perfect timing although disappointing... anyhooo, what do they mean by "failed"? .. that they failed to produce a picture at all? or they mean poor PQ? I still like the connectivity and the PIP in XS over A10 ...

damn !

It would relate to the display resolving the maximum resolution. This alone would not be a reason to accept or reject a display without taking all factors into account IMO.
There is every reason to believe some displays passing this test, might still be inferior to Sony models (for example) that fail the test. It's only one criteria, and probably not as 'big' as several others. The XS is still a beautiful display, and now at very attractive prices. See what your eyes tell you. The article is only more information. And based on the fact, the displays that 'pass' appear to be the most recent models for ALL brands, suggests it's a technological improvment. And things will always continue to improve, that's a given.

Hello all.. I haven't posted here in a while I hope all of you are well and still enjoying your XS955's, as am I. My 55XS had it's first birthday and I did something for the first time as well. I purchased an extended warranty. I got just another year for $149.00. I hope I never have to use it..
Cheers
Joe

After nearly 18 months I am still thrilled with my 60xs...no regrets!

After nearly 18 months I am still thrilled with my 60xs...no regrets!

Still loving mine after over 14 months too!

I'm nervous the bulb is going to go during my Oscar party though... :o HiBeta- have you replaced the lamp yet? How many hours does yours have on it? Oh, and how do I get "lamp hours" to display on the TV...? :confused:

Still loving mine after over 14 months too!

I'm nervous the bulb is going to go during my Oscar party though... :o HiBeta- have you replaced the lamp yet? How many hours does yours have on it? Oh, and how do I get "lamp hours" to display on the TV...? :confused:

I haven't replaced the lamp...I set it to the lower brightness level early on and haven't noticed any reduction of pq yet. I don't know exactly how many hours are on the bulb now (is there some counter in the tv to access?). I do estimate that the tv is on at least 35 hours per week so the total could likely be somewhere in the range of 2400 hours. I did buy a spare bulb just so that I'd have it on hand if this one went unexpectedly....so I'm not too worried about 'bad timing' when it does go.

did buy a spare bulb

Not really necessary. Considering, Sony does not require a tech to replace it. Think about it. :)