Anybody got a PS3 to work through the M1/HDMI yet? I have the Infocus M1 to DVI cable then to a HDMI adapter that has always worked fine with my Panasonic S97 DVD player, but when hooking up to the Playstation 3 I get nothing, even when holding down the power button on the PS3 to sync with the projector.

Scott - thanks for the reply. You have the same diagnosis that the Infocus guys gave me. I ran the same cable to the DVD player component input and eliminated the green tint. They said it must be the DVR box. Nope - cable guys came out and swapped boxes and I still had the green tint. The cable guys were baffled - we worked on the PJ and set the color space and work through all the menu options and couldn't find a way to eliminate it. I think the PJ is defective or a switch needs to be set to correct. When I check the system information - it reads - sync type: sync on green. I wonder if this is the setting that needs to be changed, but I don't see where I can.

Nashguy

Is it a Comcast box? I have a Motorola 6412 and it does weird things sometimes, including looking like the red and blue aren't plugged in on the component cable. I assume that's what the green tint you are describing looks like. I'd call it more than a green tint. It's more like the old green screen computer monitors.

Anyway, to get rid of it I just have to switch the input to something else and switch it back to get it to to sync again. My cable box doesn't do it very often, but it does it on the projector and my tv through the component connection.

The cable box is even a bigger pain with DVI because of HDCP. I'd say 20% of the time when I switch inputs back to DVI from something else I just get a black screen and I have to unplug the projector to get the picture back. Every weird thing like tha with the cable box has happened with the SP5000 and my TV.

Anybody got a PS3 to work through the M1/HDMI yet? I have the Infocus M1 to DVI cable then to a HDMI adapter that has always worked fine with my Panasonic S97 DVD player, but when hooking up to the Playstation 3 I get nothing, even when holding down the power button on the PS3 to sync with the projector.

I am curious as to whether or not this works myself.

Rob - I've got WoW cable. They were out Saturday and swapped out the box with no luck. I've re-booted the DVR several times and still have the green tint. Thanks.

XBOX HD drive at 720p , finally HD DVD. Very clean.

I've had my SP5000 for 2 yrs now, without any problems. We have enjoyed it immensely, although I've thought black levels could be better in dark scenes. It is a very bright projector, and as soon as I read about the ND2 and 4 filters, I ordered one (OEC ND2) off Ebay. I need to look at it again, but it appeared to dull the image quite a bit (lost too much sharpness), and took the punch out of the picture. What brand filter have you guys been buying, and from where? Would you expect some dulling to occur? Also, exactly what size filter to use? The 72 mm I bought is too big. Thanks.

i have my xb0x360 connected to my sp5000. i have only been able to show it at 720p, when I had it connected to my Maxent 50inch i had 1080i.
Slight clarification. I can display at 1080i but the picture is bigger than what is projected, meaning the top, bottom and side edges are cut off
anyone know why?

TIA

Rebates are iffy. I've lost out on about $150 in various rebates. I guess, keep it alive by bugging the heck out of them-they're just waiting for you to give up. Don't wait too long to crank it up. Ask them for the Fedex tracking number.
I finally got my rebate by filing a report with the BBB with them. After 6 months of stalling I GOT a phone call from them. Ofcourse they still lied and the check did NOT arrive when the callee said it would. I called them and they apologized but I still added an update with the BBB that they had lied and not delivered and THEN I got a check!!! (this was in november)
Now my wife is off my back :)

Now my wife is off my back :)

Now that's the best way to watch HD.

Has anyone had their SP5000 "Professionally" Calibrated ? I'd be interested in seeing how an Expert selected an appropriate Gamma and Color Temp as well as what the RGB Gains and offsets ended up at .

I'm now using CalMAN , moving up from Smart-III , and I've been able to prove to myself that the UHP Lamp is very blue/green and red deficient . I'm having an awful time getting this dialed in .

I've ordered a CC30R Red Color Compensating filter like the one the AE700/900 boys are using so I'm still hopefull that I can Master this Calibration process .

Scott.................. :rolleyes:

I've learned that the source material is so different from device to device, channel to channel and disc to disc that the minute details are not worth making myself crazy over.

I've learned that the source material is so different from device to device, channel to channel and disc to disc that the minute details are not worth making myself crazy over.

So I'll take that as a...No ?

I'm surprised you see such a difference in material and sources . A properly Calibrated Display should be a little more tolerant of minor differences inherent in source material and source devices . Oh well .

What I was looking for was a comparison of a "professional" Calibrator's results with that particular Infocus PJ so I could see if the problems I'm seeing are in the PJ or in my calibrating approach . I guess I'll keep asking .

Thanks ,

Scott................

I just purchased a used SP5000 (ScreenPlay 5000) I bought it being sold as is and I am skeptical now as I am counting down days before I am hosting my SuperBowl party in hopes that I would have my theater complete by then. Well here's the deal, the sp5000 they said they had no other way of testing the unit because it did not power up. Well they checked the lamp and there was no LAMP installed when purchased. I do not have projector yet by the way, anybody that owns one please tell me if possible that this could be why it does not power on, they said no indication of power no lights, nothing.

Thanks

So, how much does one pay for a non-working, no bulb SP5000?

I paid $130 on ebay. I just need to know an answer to my ?

Is it because there is no lamp installed at all as to why it won't power on?

Thanks

I paid $130 on ebay. I just need to know an answer to my ?

Is it because there is no lamp installed at all as to why it won't power on?

Thanks

The PJ is not going to power on without a lamp. It may flash an error code.

I'm using an Xbox(HD-DVD) through the sp5000 via vga(vesa) and it's dramatic. So you want a photo or is this thread RETIRED?

I noticed a problem with the image when I was watching my SP5000 today during hd cable. The image did not display the red, and the same thing happens on both my HDA1 and digital cable box, so I knew it was not source related. I only have one single 30' component cable run, so I'd have to unplug the cable to switching from watching the 2 different source. I noticed that sometimes that I'd get a slight shock when I was unplugging the component cables. I tried to isolate the problem by trying different sources, and still cannot see the red colors. I then used the blue cable from component run and subsituted with the red inputs, and still cannot see the red colors, so I know it's not the cable that's bad. I can still see the red boxes during the blue start-up logo, so the LCD chip is not bad, so it leads me to assume that the red RCA input on the SP5000 is causing the problem. Does anyone have any idea? How long would it take for Infocus to service this problem and how much would it cost?

BTW jschwinck: I'd sell you my SP5000 for only $100 and at least it's more of a working unit than yours, it powers on, and at least have a 2000 hour bulb that still works. Hope you get your PJ problem taken care of, my sp5000 needs to be serviced also.

I noticed a problem with the image when I was watching my SP5000 today during hd cable. The image did not display the red, and the same thing happens on both my HDA1 and digital cable box, so I knew it was not source related. I only have one single 30' component cable run, so I'd have to unplug the cable to switching from watching the 2 different source. I noticed that sometimes that I'd get a slight shock when I was unplugging the component cables. I tried to isolate the problem by trying different sources, and still cannot see the red colors. I then used the blue cable from component run and subsituted with the red inputs, and still cannot see the red colors, so I know it's not the cable that's bad. I can still see the red boxes during the blue start-up logo, so the LCD chip is not bad, so it leads me to assume that the red RCA input on the SP5000 is causing the problem. Does anyone have any idea? How long would it take for Infocus to service this problem and how much would it cost?

BTW jschwinck: I'd sell you my SP5000 for only $100 and at least it's more of a working unit than yours, it powers on, and at least have a 2000 hour bulb that still works. Hope you get your PJ problem taken care of, my sp5000 needs to be serviced also.


I don't know how much Infocus would charge for a repair. You should really consider getting a component switch to set up where your sources are. They are cheap and they are going to be a lot easier on your cables.

I'm using an Xbox(HD-DVD) through the sp5000 via vga(vesa) and it's dramatic. So you want a photo or is this thread RETIRED?

This is the SP5000 thread. I imagine that as long as people are using them and have something to say about them this thread will be active.

I noticed a problem with the image when I was watching my SP5000 today during hd cable. The image did not display the red, and the same thing happens on both my HDA1 and digital cable box, so I knew it was not source related. I only have one single 30' component cable run, so I'd have to unplug the cable to switching from watching the 2 different source. I noticed that sometimes that I'd get a slight shock when I was unplugging the component cables. I tried to isolate the problem by trying different sources, and still cannot see the red colors. I then used the blue cable from component run and subsituted with the red inputs, and still cannot see the red colors, so I know it's not the cable that's bad. I can still see the red boxes during the blue start-up logo, so the LCD chip is not bad, so it leads me to assume that the red RCA input on the SP5000 is causing the problem. Does anyone have any idea? How long would it take for Infocus to service this problem and how much would it cost?

BTW jschwinck: I'd sell you my SP5000 for only $100 and at least it's more of a working unit than yours, it powers on, and at least have a 2000 hour bulb that still works. Hope you get your PJ problem taken care of, my sp5000 needs to be serviced also.

I will by this from you now if I can.

This is the SP5000 thread. I imagine that as long as people are using them and have something to say about them this thread will be active.
I realize where I posted. And why, it was INactive.

I realize where I posted. And why, it was INactive.

I didn't post to be offensive. Maybe I should have been more clear. This thread is equivalent to all the other "official" threads for other projectors. Because the SP5000 isn't very popular on this board this thread tends to go without a post for some time every now and then. But, it always comes back up when someone has a question about the SP5000 the same as all the other threads dedicated to a particular projector. If it pertains to the SP5000 then this is the thread to put it in.

Hey I've been lurking about since before Thanksgiving and recently purchased as SP5000. I have been very happy with it and recently purchased an upconverting Sony DVP-NS90V DVD player to connect via HDMI adapter cable from Monoprice.

Well I get everything and connect my cable this afternoon and the image is shifted about one-third left on screen. I ran through my normal checks and setups and everything seems ok. I checked my firmware and noticed I had version 9 and there was a version 10 available. So I ran through the upgrade process to see if the upgrade would solve the video shift I was getting. To no avail, I disconnected the HDMI and connected the Component cable and am not getting a sync. I connected my XBOX 360 and no sync. Before this I didn't have any problems. I switched my 360 to SDTV mode and connected the composite cable and I have a picture.

Now has anyone else had this issue after upgrading? I would call InFocus right now but they charge a $35 weekend rate per incident. And I won't pay that for something that seems to be a result of their software. So does anyone know a fix for this?

That's fine and no offense, Hyper, but I know all this. Thanks. It was an offer of HD DVD on my SP5000.

Stolen,
Mine is version 9 and use the VESA, VGA to connect(XBOX) with optical out to my surround receiver. When the (mine is 2/3 screen towards left) image doesn't fit the screen I hit rescan on the remote and all fills in. Please ensure you have the correct adapter-no analog. I use an hdmi adapter from the H1D for upconverter and HDTV. Component accepts 4801/p on my machine. HDCP only through VESA and H1D. I didn't go to version 10 since everything works fine except one blob left. Composite = no HD. Only SD. Get that HD Player if you want - it's a great improvement. Don't forget this is a 720p machine and inputting 1080 can make it work harder. I USUALLY leave it on native and feed it 720p. Have fun.

Stolen,
Mine is version 9 and use the VESA, VGA to connect(XBOX) with optical out to my surround receiver. When the (mine is 2/3 screen towards left) image doesn't fit the screen I hit rescan on the remote and all fills in. Please ensure you have the correct adapter-no analog. I use an hdmi adapter from the H1D for upconverter and HDTV. Component accepts 4801/p on my machine. HDCP only through VESA and H1D. I didn't go to version 10 since everything works fine except one blob left. Composite = no HD. Only SD. Get that HD Player if you want - it's a great improvement. Don't forget this is a 720p machine and inputting 1080 can make it work harder. I USUALLY leave it on native and feed it 720p. Have fun.

See i tried the 'Resize' and 'Overscan' and it didn't fix anything earlier. Now I just don't have a Component sync/video feed. Nothing seems to fix it. Reboots, new cables, I get no image. Is there a way to Downgrade my Firmware?

Somewhere back in the thread. I don't know. I would disconnect all and start one by one. Depends on your upconverting Sony, on my toshiba I had to go into the menu for the hdmi to work. And no little pins around the flat connector on the H1D to hdmi = analog.

Auto image too.

hit the auto image button. and yes you can go back to version 9.

http://www.infocus.com/service/software/downloads/SP5000_753-0363-09.exe

hit the auto image button. and yes you can go back to version 9.

i found that before you posted, but thank you for taking the time to help. Also a thank you to Davinleeds, I successfully downgraded and hit AUTOIMAGE and the picture is back and coming in at 720p.

Now switching between 1080i and 720p, I can barely see a difference on any monitor or projector, but if I left my Sony on 1080i, how much harder would would my projector be working?

Use what looks best. Enjoy. I think the hardest working part is the lamp. Clean as required and provide ventilation.

Hi Folks! First time poster, but I've lurked here for a longtime. I have had a SP 5000 for about 7 months now and I've really enjoyed it.

I recently had a problem with the M1/DVI port. My Toshiba HDDVD player would not display video properly from the M1 port. I tried another cable with the same result. I only have one M1 to DVI converter plug so I haven't tried that.

Now my HDDVD player will not even recognize the SP 5000 when it's plugged into the HDMI port. The player and all of my other devices display fine using component or s video.

Any other component I plug into the DVI port will show video but it's off center to the left.

Thanks in advance for any help!

Any verdict on PS3 through the SP5000's HDMI/M1 port? That sucks if it doesn't work.

I've had my SP5000 for a little over a year (purchased refurb for $799 w/ free screen IIRC) and I still love it. I am thinking about upgrading to a DLP model later this year just to improve the black level though... I used an ND filter for a couple months and was just not happy with the detail lost over black level gained.

Still a great projector for sports (watch lots of football) and HDTV (got the 360 HD-DVD through VGA doing 720p native and HD cable)

i read a few pages back about some one having a problem with the green tint i have the same problem here it is

ive had my sp5000 since august bought it used off ebay it had 600 hours used im now at 1600 ;p i love it ive built me a home theater and the pj is awesome but i have always had just digital cable used the composite video output for cable

two days ago i upgraded finnaly to hdtv/dvr.

when i hook up the component video to the hdtv box the regular channels come in fine but when i turn it on a Hd channel its totally green
ive read and read for two days cant find a soloution posted on a couple other boards but with no success. The cable guy tried a used box first then gave me a new one ...same problem.

so i tried the component video to my dvd player as before i always just switched the composite video cord to the dvd player. It works fine and looks fantastic with component video hooked up on the dvd player. So if the component output works on my dvd player but not the hd box but the hdox is brand new then what is it

Ive tried all the settings in colorspace they all produce green tint

Is there a setting on the pj im missing? i have tried 2 diffrent component cables just ordered a 3rd off ebay

hopefully i can find some help here this is frustrating me badly

ok so ive just read about a few people having the green tint problem on here if any one has a fix or knows whats going on bc were all having the same exact problem so it has to be a setting either on the hd box or on the projector
i will donate to you if you can help through paypal i wanna get this fixed

i read a few pages back about some one having a problem with the green tint i have the same problem here it is

ive had my sp5000 since august bought it used off ebay it had 600 hours used im now at 1600 ;p i love it ive built me a home theater and the pj is awesome but i have always had just digital cable used the composite video output for cable

two days ago i upgraded finnaly to hdtv/dvr.

when i hook up the component video to the hdtv box the regular channels come in fine but when i turn it on a Hd channel its totally green
ive read and read for two days cant find a soloution posted on a couple other boards but with no success. The cable guy tried a used box first then gave me a new one ...same problem.

so i tried the component video to my dvd player as before i always just switched the composite video cord to the dvd player. It works fine and looks fantastic with component video hooked up on the dvd player. So if the component output works on my dvd player but not the hd box but the hdox is brand new then what is it

Ive tried all the settings in colorspace they all produce green tint

Is there a setting on the pj im missing? i have tried 2 diffrent component cables just ordered a 3rd off ebay

hopefully i can find some help here this is frustrating me badly

ok so ive just read about a few people having the green tint problem on here if any one has a fix or knows whats going on bc were all having the same exact problem so it has to be a setting either on the hd box or on the projector
i will donate to you if you can help through paypal i wanna get this fixed

i have a sp5000 as well. It sounds to me that there may be a sync problem with the projector itself when trying to display HD programming. Have you tried HDMI cable to m1 adapter?

no i havent got a m1 to hdmi cable..how do you fix a sync problem

Sometimes it's the sequence of turning on the components. Don't switch cables while items are on or plugged. Others have ruined the pj with this. Also HDCP may only come through your M1 or VESA connection as your cable box outputs digital and component is analog. Check to make sure your M1 adapter is not analog - I got stuck with this once.

I have a DVI-D to DVI-M1 cable from Monoprice and I was able to watch a BluRay movie, and play the PS3 on that cable for about 3 days then there was no image, the component connection of the PS3 worked fine so I used that for a while and Sony replaced my PS3 and the same thing happened so there must be something wrong with the PJ because now my cable box (Motorola DCT 6200 Charter) now it is saying that the HD Content Protection of my display has been compromised and then the image vanishes, is anyone else having HDCP issues?

They (Infocus) will say you need their adapter, not aftermarket.
http://www.infocus.com/service/sp5000/faq-video.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&cat=hdcp

That is a bunch of BS. I had the 30 foot M1 to DVI cable, and was never able to get it to work with my PS3. I bought a 35 foot Monoprice HDMI cable in anticipation of a new PJ and a M1 male to HDMI female adaptor for 7 bucks, and it fires right up now with my SP5000. I did have a glitch with the SP5000, but corrected it, by disconnecting the power cable from the wall for a few hours, then firing up the PJ, then the PS3 and it corrected the handshake issue.

I have a DVI-D to DVI-M1 cable from Monoprice and I was able to watch a BluRay movie, and play the PS3 on that cable for about 3 days then there was no image, the component connection of the PS3 worked fine so I used that for a while and Sony replaced my PS3 and the same thing happened so there must be something wrong with the PJ because now my cable box (Motorola DCT 6200 Charter) now it is saying that the HD Content Protection of my display has been compromised and then the image vanishes, is anyone else having HDCP issues?
this just happened to me after a week with my TWC (Explorer 8300HD) box. Getting a HDCP not available on your Display Unit error. AARRGGHHH!

That is a bunch of BS. I had the 30 foot M1 to DVI cable, and was never able to get it to work with my PS3. I bought a 35 foot Monoprice HDMI cable in anticipation of a new PJ and a M1 male to HDMI female adaptor for 7 bucks, and it fires right up now with my SP5000. I did have a glitch with the SP5000, but corrected it, by disconnecting the power cable from the wall for a few hours, then firing up the PJ, then the PS3 and it corrected the handshake issue.
So in theory one could buy the DVI-M1 male to HDMI female adapter (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041906&p_id=2689&seq=1&format=2&style=)
and then purchase a 35ft HDMI cable (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024002&p_id=2742&seq=1&format=2&style=)
connect the DVI-M1 adapter to the PJ and the HDMI cable between the PS3 and the adapter and the PS3 will handshake properly.
Is this correct?
If that is true then how could I solve the issue with my Cable Box which has a DVI-D connection, do i also get this adapter (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041902&p_id=2029&seq=1&format=2&style=)
so that I can handshake properly with my cable box?

They (Infocus) will say you need their adapter, not aftermarket.
http://www.infocus.com/service/sp5000/faq-video.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&cat=hdcp
Have you read through the rest of their FAQ for the SP5000?
There are several errors, it says this PJ is DLP (http://www.infocus.com/service/sp5000/faq-video.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&cat=torn) ! ha! we all know it is LCD
It also says the PJ will scale (http://www.infocus.com/service/sp5000/faq-video.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&cat=hdresolution) 1080p to native 720p I know that mine cannot do this.
This says the lamp is good for 3000 (http://www.infocus.com/service/sp5000/faq-computer.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&cat=led) hours
This says the PJ runs in XGA (http://www.infocus.com/service/sp5000/faq-computer.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&cat=cropped-image) resolution, last time i checked it was native 1280x720 not 1024x768
Those are all the errors I noticed while skimming through the FAQs

Yes,read it many times. DLP is incorrect but the rest except 3000 hrs(I can hope) is correct. Don't expect websites to be 100% correct. Also, this projector is last years news so I wouldn't expect much other than warrantee or paid repair. But I love it and was offering my opinion. BTY I bought the Infocus hdmi adapter through Amazon 6 months ago at half price and no issues.

Yeah I know it is old news but it is still a decent projector.
I have tried to give the projector a 1080p signal and it just says signal out of range, so it cant scale 1080p but it can do 1080i.

Looks like unplugging the projector for several hours got the DVI port to work correctly on my Oppo.

I have not tried hooking it up to my HDDVD player, but I've ordered a Panasonic AE-900 which will be here this week. So it will soon be a moot point.

I plan on keeping my Screenplay and using it as a mobile projector to take to friend's homes and use.

Yay unplugging it works, however once I switch sources for too long it goes back to being compromised and I can't watch HDCP content again until I unplug the PJ again.
Major P.I.T.A. but I guess it is better than no image.

They have this projector as a refurb for $650 at infocus, is it worth it at that price over the 480p in72 model? How much better is HDTV on the sp5000 compared to the 1080i that the in72 will do?

"NATIVE" resolution is the key. AND what you are using to "feed" the projector. If the warrantees are reasonable.?.?.? Do research on Projector Central and other advertisers.

"NATIVE" resolution is the key. AND what you are using to "feed" the projector. If the warrantees are reasonable.?.?.? Do research on Projector Central and other advertisers.

my HD receiver is a Scientific Atlantic Explorer 8300HD

with my 4805 projector the HD picture was great, so I wonder just how much better the 720p would be or if I should wait until I can afford the 1080p before I really upgrade.

That's difficult, seeing some posts of 4805, they look great. Depends on budget. A few 1080p pj are coming down quick (3-4-5k, ouch). Maybe a year or two of (ouch) patience will help. I am waiting, but my trigger finger may twitch before they bottom out. Don't forget, to really utilize them, you need HD DVD or BR. Another $$$.

Bought my SP5000 in December 05. Since my HT is not yet started, the projector hasn't seen much use, about 175 hours.

On occasion, it would light with no red signal, but a power cycle would correct that, so I lived with it.

Then last Saturday, the day before the Super Bowl and 2 months after the warranty expired, the lamp refused to fire. I reseated it and made sure the door interlock was ok. Still doesn't work. Apparently, I'm not the only one who's had this problem. I've found three threads (which I cannot post) where people have had lamps fail at ~200 hours.

I've obtained an RMA which means a guaranteed minimum outlay of $120 and maybe $400+ if it's a bad lamp. If it is the lamp, I plan to pitch a fit. Quite a disappointment for a barely used first projector. It will be my only InFocus projector.

What are the color settings for you infocus 5000. Need help with this!

I'm cheap and don't whant to get the software.

Thanks

What are the color settings for your Infocus 5000. Need help with this!

I'm cheap and don't want to get the software.

Thanks

You do realize that no two person's settings will be the same ? I , for example , prefer Medium as Temp and Photography as the Gamma . My particular unit is weak on Red and very strong on Green and is adjusted to compensate . All Source components , DVD Player , and cables will also contribute to how your PJ produces a picture .

Best suggestion...buy the Getgray Calibration DVD (see this Forum for details) and follow the instructions . This will get you very close without having to purchase software or a sensor . If this produces a pleasing picture for you then you're done . If it peaks your interest to do more , then AVS Forums are where you need to be.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586139&page=1&pp=30

Good Luck ,

Scott...................... :)

Has anyone actually gotten the serial cable connection to work on their SP5000? I have tried with Girder and the serial plug-in but I get no where, it doesn't seem to work.

ok...my sp 5000 tells me that one or more of the fans has stopped even though all are running and all the connections are ok as far as i can tell...(only check connections to board...dont want to take apart the whole thing if i can avoid it)

It turns on for a few seconds to display the error then shuts down with the coresponding blinking red lights.


any help??

Scott

Can anyone confirm or deny whether the SP5000 will accept a 48hz or 72hz Frame Rate over DVI ?

I've scoured the Net without success and the Manual is of limited use . I've talked to Tech Support but I'm not sure he understood the question .

I'm hoping someone can enlighten me :D

Thanks in advance ,

Scott

Well I've been able to answer my own questions .

I've got the DVDO HD+ in house now and can confirm that the SP5000 will accept the 48Hz Framerate , as well as the 60HZ , but not the 72Hz . The Judder is quite bad at 72Hz unfortunately .

Also , when the SP5000 is set to "Native" , all internal scaling and processing is bypassed and we can get 1:1 Pixel mapping to the Display .

Still interesting on how the Contrast and Brightness controls lose their effectiveness when in Native mode . I now leave then at 50 , default , and set these controls in the HD+ using the Getgray Cal Disk .

The picture has improved more than I was expecting and I would recommend the HD+ to anyone with this modest setup .

Thanks to all in this thread for their feedback .

Scott.................. :)

Is anyone running their sp5000 with the DirectTV HD DVR? I have mine hooked up via the DVI-HDMI cable, and the picture shows, but I only get the left half of the picture. I tried changing the aspect ratio and got the same results. The DirectTV guy couldn't figure it out either. My Oppo DVD player works great with the same setup.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Jim

Don't have Direct, but my experience is with HTPC. My card 7900GS for some reason uses the display settings 1280 by 1024, on the projector, but I want it to use 1280 by 720. When this happens, the picture is mostly on the left, square 4.3 like the display. This is when I have two different settings. I set all to 1280 by 720 and ratio on screen is correct. Some setting issue? Usually that's the issue. Good luck. Not Correct, but a work around.

Thanks...turns out my HDMI to DVI cable didn't support 480i, which is what the DirectTV receiver sends out until you are able to change it to the appropriate resolution. So I just hooked it up with component cables and it works great. Thanks again.

Jim

Contrast = 50
Brightness = 47


CONTRAST 50??????????
BRIGHTNESS 47?????????

Dang, you shoulda bought a Mits1000. It's 10 times that bright and contrasty.

Wolfie

I'm having a weird issue that comes and goes. I have my SP5000 hooked up to my Verizon Motorola box via 20'HDMI cable. I have a M1 to HDMI adapter for the projector. I also have a 20' VGA cable that I use on my Windows XP desktop connected to the VGA port on the projector. What happens is that sometimes when I switch between source 1 (M1) & source 2 (VGA) the projector gets confused. When I want the HD signal from the M1 the image sometimes does not appear or is off centered. Sometimes hitting autoimage will fix it. Other times I have to unplug power to the projector and hope it comes back. Anyone else have switching issues? I don't want to think this is the HDMI cable since it's has never been touched and worked previsouly. This only happens when switching to the M1 interface. I already update to the 2005 firmware (v753-0363-10 :confused: ). Thanks for any help!

Chris

Switching issues? Of course. Even new components warn of this. My brand new Lg RC797T DVD upconvert/Astc Tuner/VCR player recorder, states that you may have to restart or start one after the other until they "handshake". So, and I've had the same issue, what I do is if the switching fails is turn off everything and restart. Sometimes the PJ first , sometimes the player first. It's a pain and sometimes it doesn't work, and the next day it will. I don't think I'm the only one. It's crap that we've paid many bucks for nice systems and they won't work together, simply. It's frustrating and remember electronics don't like quick unplugs and replugs.

Is anyone running their sp5000 with the DirectTV HD DVR? I have mine hooked up via the DVI-HDMI cable, and the picture shows, but I only get the left half of the picture. I tried changing the aspect ratio and got the same results. The DirectTV guy couldn't figure it out either. My Oppo DVD player works great with the same setup.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Jim

I get the same problem with my Oppo dvd player. Turning the dvd off then back on fixes it, it seems like an issue I get when I use the universal remote to turn the dvd and projector on at the same time. It is annoying, and I have not found a workaround yet.

Im having major problems with my SP 5000. When i go to power up the unit i get a message saying that one or more of the fans is not working correctly. Then the projector immediately shuts down. I checked all the fans when powering up...and all of them are working.

I tried Infocus tech support and they told me (not in person as they left me a voice message) that it might be a problem with the power unit.

Any one have any insight into this problem? I want to get this fixed soon as I plan on purchasing an HD-DVD drive for my Xbox 360.

My SP5000 has recently developed DVI handshaking failures, and they are rapidly worsening.

I've had this unit since late Jan 06. I got it directly from Infocus as a replacement for a faulty one I got in Dec 05. I've always has it connected to three sources, all through 50' cable runs; DVI to a HTPC's Radeon video card, VGA to an HDTV STB and component to an A/V receiver. Though we only use the PJ three to maybe eight times per month, for movies and special HDTV events (live and recorded), it had been very reliable until now.

I noticed when I tried to play back the PC recording of the KY derby, the PC didn't find the PJ on the DVI port, also the PJ didn't find the PC's signal. So, I did what others have tried; turn off PC and PJ, then turn on PJ first and then the PC. After trying this a few times a day for a few days, it finally worked. However, a few days later, the handshake with the PC was lost, and the off/on routine didn't work after many attempts. Here is a similar experience.

... you may have to restart or start one after the other until they "handshake". So, and I've had the same issue, what I do is if the switching fails is turn off everything and restart. Sometimes the PJ first , sometimes the player first. It's a pain and sometimes it doesn't work, and the next day it will. I don't think I'm the only one. It's crap that we've paid many bucks for nice systems and they won't work together, simply. It's frustrating and remember electronics don't like quick unplugs and replugs.
This morning I hooked up a notebook PC via the supplied M1-to-VGA/USB cable, which worked very well as it is an analog connection. Then when I plugged the long DVI cable back into the PJ while the PJ's power cord was unplugged, but with the HTPC still attached to the other end and powered on, the HTPC's speaker sounded that a plug-and-play device had been found. I then powered on the PJ and lo-and-behold, the PJ was displaying the HTPC's DVI output and the ATI card had assigned the PJ as the primary monitor. About a half hour later while I changed from one monitor profile to another using the ATI software, the PJ ceased being recognized as an attached display device.

Since this setup has been reliably stable for more than a year and has sustained many power on and off cycles in various orders, remained stable after a few power outages, and now behaves the same with two different PC's, both having DVI video ports, all this indicates to me that the PJ's DVI circuitry is failing. Has anyone else had this kind of DVI handshaking issue with a PC video card? And has anyone had the SP5000 serviced under warranty due to a failing DVI port?

Thanks
TH

PS, The video card is a Sapphire Radeon x1300 256MB ram, the other is a Powercolor Radeon 9000 64 MB ram. PCs running Windows XP MCE and XP home respectively.

go to displays. You can force the ATI driver todetect anything plugged into it. Rite click on your desktop. Select properties. When that window comes up select setting, then advance. Then select displays and click the trouble shoot bar. Check the box that says "force detection of my t.v." if that dos not work go back to displays and see if it detects a second display device, then make that primary. If that dos not work there is somthing wrong with your projector.

I hope this isn't off topic, I apologize if it is..

Anyhow, I've had my SP5000 for over a year and a half recently had a bad case of dust blobs.. at first I thought it was a defect but after doing some reading it seems to be a common problem. What's uncommon are any SP5000 specific guides on cleaning these particles.. I've tried canned air at the gap between the zoom and focus but that only seemed to have made it worse (from one very noticable blob to two). All I can seem to find is the guide for the 4805, would that work? Otherwise can anyone point me to a specific SP5000 cleaning guide?

I hope this isn't off topic, I apologize if it is..

Anyhow, I've had my SP5000 for over a year and a half recently had a bad case of dust blobs.. at first I thought it was a defect but after doing some reading it seems to be a common problem. What's uncommon are any SP5000 specific guides on cleaning these particles.. I've tried canned air at the gap between the zoom and focus but that only seemed to have made it worse (from one very noticable blob to two). All I can seem to find is the guide for the 4805, would that work? Otherwise can anyone point me to a specific SP5000 cleaning guide?

I'm afraid there is no specific cleaning guide for the SP5000 , however the tips given in the 4805 thread were very helpful when I had to clean mine . If you're going to use canned air , be sure it sits upright and has not been shaken . I attached a long length of small diameter tubing to the nozzle and added a small paper filter I got from Work . I sprayed onto a piece of paper first to make sure it was dry then brought the end of the tubing over to the SP5000 .

Be careful after removing the screws as there was one small ribbon cable that I could not get disengaged so I had to prop up the cover while I blew out the dust blobs . Took about ten minutes start to finish and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again.

I wouldn't blow air into the air intakes or exhaust as you could "push" more dust past the filters .

My dust blobs showed up about eight months after purchase and it's been over a year and a half since the cleaning and it's still clean .

Let us know how you get on with the cleaning .

Scott.................... :D

Just in case , here are the Links that helped me . All are for other models and most go a lot further than I would venture at this point in time but they did give me a sense of caution which was much appreciated...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=556431&highlight=Dust+blobs

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=572889&highlight=Dust+blobs

http://www.rit.edu/~amd4791/oldSite/projectorCleaning.html

Scott............................ :)

Thanks for the suggestions scott. I had some time today and I thought I would attack the task at hand. unfortunately I didn't get very far since I couldn't remove the two rings to get inside. I don't seem to get the trick in removing them.. I didn't have string but I did have floss and I went at it for a good ten minutes till I gave up.. at least now my projector smells minty fresh :)

If I can only figure out the rings then I'm sure I'll be fine with the rest.

[QUOTE=gebus]Thanks for the suggestions scott. I had some time today and I thought I would attack the task at hand. unfortunately I didn't get very far since I couldn't remove the two rings to get inside. I don't seem to get the trick in removing them.. I didn't have string but I did have floss and I went at it for a good ten minutes till I gave up.. at least now my projector smells minty fresh :)

If I can only figure out the rings then I'm sure I'll be fine with the rest.[/QUOTE

Not sure what you're doing with the Dental Floss :p but all I did was remove a few screws on the cover and I was in . Beware the tiny ribbon cable ! I did take a bunch of digital photos with my camera just in case I had a brain cramp . I'll see if I can attach one to a Post .

Scott.................... :)

Here's the Pic that may help you in your cleaning job...

Good luck ,

Scott........................... :)

Yes I was able to open up the unit with a torx driver and removed the top cover. I blew some air in where the panels were with the three ribbon cables coming in together but the dust blobs remain. My only guess would be that the dust is lodged in between the two focus and zoom rings or even further in which is where I'm inable to get into.

My SP5000 has just stopped working, with one red flash (lamp won't strike). The thing is I've only used it for ~160 hours. Infocus tech support gave me a stock response about replacing the bulb, but is it likely that the bulb has blown already? And if I replace it is it likely to go again in such a short time? Or is it more likely that there is something wrong with the projector itself? Is there any test, eg with a multimeter or something, to find if a bulb is blown or not, or anything I could check to see if the projector is working/not working? Finally, are the APO cheaper compatible lamps any good (can't post a link, sorry)? Thanks in advance for any answers.

My SP5000 has just stopped working, with one red flash (lamp won't strike). The thing is I've only used it for ~160 hours. Infocus tech support gave me a stock response about replacing the bulb, but is it likely that the bulb has blown already? And if I replace it is it likely to go again in such a short time? Or is it more likely that there is something wrong with the projector itself? Is there any test, eg with a multimeter or something, to find if a bulb is blown or not, or anything I could check to see if the projector is working/not working? Finally, are the APO cheaper compatible lamps any good (can't post a link, sorry)? Thanks in advance for any answers.

I think that a majority of new PJ owners seem to lose their bulbs in a very short period of time . Mine went at 84 hours . The replacement is at 650+ hours . There was a discussion over on the Panny AE700 Thread where owners felt that the supplied bulbs were not the ones that passed Quality Control whereas the replacement bulbs were the best . Lots of conspiracy theories abound over why this should happen.

Best suggestion is to argue for a Warranty replacement .

Scott................... :)

Yeah, my first SP5000 lamp died within a week. The replacement that Infocus sent me, however, lasted 2500 hours before I replaced it - and it didn't die, I still have it. My second lamp just reached 2000 hours. Hopefully you can get your lamp replaced for free.

Yeah, my first SP5000 lamp died within a week. The replacement that Infocus sent me, however, lasted 2500 hours before I replaced it - and it didn't die, I still have it. My second lamp just reached 2000 hours. Hopefully you can get your lamp replaced for free.

Where are you getting your replacement lamps from ? I've checked around the Web and prices vary a lot !

Scott.................. :)

We had a power failure when I was out of town for work. Came back home and now my picture is offset about 2 inches to the right from my blue ray player over hdmi cable. I can't seem to get it adjusted back. Never had any problems with it before now.

I called customer support, my warranty is expired, but they told me to swap out the cable (umm its in my ceiling and behind crown molding... not going to happen) or send it in for repairs (trying to sell the house and the theater conveys... so no projector is not a good thing). When I go through the menus the horizontal and vertical adjustment is blanked out for hdmi (I was able to use them to adjust the offset over component cable from the blue ray player)

I tried unplugging both ends of the cables.

any other ideas out there?

Thanks in advance for any help,

Dan

Since I just got my second new lamp (should be waiting for me at home right now), I'm thinking of having my SP5000 ISF'd for the first time (in a couple weeks after the first 100 or so hours). Has anyone had theirs ISF'd? Is it worth it for this low-end 720p projector? Any estimates on cost?

Thanks!

Where are you getting your replacement lamps from ? I've checked around the Web and prices vary a lot !

Well, I got my new one from a store not affiliated with AVScience Forum, so I'm not sure I can say (don't remember where I got my last one a year ago). I can say I just searched for the lowest price I could find and ordered it from that place.

Holy cow, man - I love getting a new lamp. I totally forgot exactly how white, white is :) And it even seems sharper for some reason. The fading may be too slow to notice, but damn getting a new lamp after a couple thousand hours is noticable in these things, especially with how bright the SP5000 is. Light cannon indeed.

Since I just got my second new lamp (should be waiting for me at home right now), I'm thinking of having my SP5000 ISF'd for the first time (in a couple weeks after the first 100 or so hours). Has anyone had theirs ISF'd? Is it worth it for this low-end 720p projector? Any estimates on cost?

Thanks!



Well, I got my new one from a store not affiliated with AVScience Forum, so I'm not sure I can say (don't remember where I got my last one a year ago). I can say I just searched for the lowest price I could find and ordered it from that place.

Ok , that's somewhat comforting . I too have searched and found a good source for a lamp . I still feel that the original lamps placed in the PJ's are crap and the replacement ones are the good ones .

Regarding the ISF'ing , I've used the CalMan software with a Spyder-II . The picture is now what I remember seeing at CEDIA a few years back . Quite good and a far cry from "out of the box" . An ISF Cal will probably run you around $200 but I'm not sure if that covers multiple inputs . Check the Calibration Forum and contact an ISF Tech near you for pricing etc .

Scott.................... :)

"Playing this game is like having your eyes slit open with straight razors, filled with baby spider eggs, then re-sealed, and then being treated to the sensation of hundreds of tiny, venemous little arachnids bursting into being behind your pupils, consuming everything they can touch, and feeling them tear through your corneas and trickle out of your bleeding eye sockets like jagged tears of black glass. Don't play this game."

ROFLMAO That is probably the best, most hilarious signature i have ever read.

I am at 1922 hours on my lamp, I really don't want to change it until it dies but the prospect of the increased brightness is something i look forward to. Is it really as noticeable as you say it is?

We had a power failure when I was out of town for work. Came back home and now my picture is offset about 2 inches to the right from my blue ray player over hdmi cable. I can't seem to get it adjusted back. Never had any problems with it before now.

I called customer support, my warranty is expired, but they told me to swap out the cable (umm its in my ceiling and behind crown molding... not going to happen) or send it in for repairs (trying to sell the house and the theater conveys... so no projector is not a good thing). When I go through the menus the horizontal and vertical adjustment is blanked out for hdmi (I was able to use them to adjust the offset over component cable from the blue ray player)

I tried unplugging both ends of the cables.

any other ideas out there?

Thanks in advance for any help,

Dan

I have one but I would assume you have already tried it,
Press the Auto Image button on the remote.
Oh and try unplugging the power to the PJ before you turn it on, hey you never know...it seems to fix handshake issues but this may do it as well.

Besides auto image button, selecting the source 2 button may help. You may need to do it repeatedly. I occasionaly have had a similar problem with the SP5000, with both an Oppo 971, and a Toshiba HD-A2. The auto image button works sometimes, the source 2 works other times, and unplugging-replugging the HDMI cable works other times. Re-booting the player is another option.

I hope someone here can help me. My SP5000 is having a problem with its fan. The projector is still working and shows a picture, but the fan is acting very weird.

In the past, when the projector is first turned on and also when it starts to heat up, its fan would go into "high speed mode" and spins much faster. Now, the fan can not do that anymore. It still try to spin up but then slows down immediately as if it couldn't sustain the high speed.

The projector would then try to spin up the fan several more times but each time the fan would slow down. After some time, the projector would auto shutdown because of overheating (I guess fan in quiet mode can't dissipate heat fast enough).

I have already attempted the following things, reset to factory default in the menu, clean filter, re-seat lamp, re-seat power plug. None of those helped. Infocus is asking for over $400 to fix the problem. Is there anything else I could try??

Thanks

I hope someone here can help me. My SP5000 is having a problem with its fan. The projector is still working and shows a picture, but the fan is acting very weird....I have already attempted the following things, reset to factory default in the menu, clean filter, re-seat lamp, re-seat power plug. None of those helped. Infocus is asking for over $400 to fix the problem. Is there anything else I could try??

ThanksI bought these small metal fans (4") from walmart for $5. I hung the fan about 6 inches from the bottom right corner intake of the projector (opposite side of the fan) with some small "s" hooks and a small eye-lag. Not the prettiest, but it kept the fan on LOW for 2 hours. I stopped this because I was afraid that there was a thermostat on that side...in essence, the external fan was cooling the thermostat, but the lamp was still getting too warm. I do not know if this will work for you, but if you do not have an alternative repair lined up, may be worth considering. NOTE: I also placed a second fan directly outside the venting for the lamp housing (just in case my theory of the thermostat was correct - I did not want to overheat the lamp), but the first time I ran this setup, it caused a dust blob to appear, so I nixed the whole external fan idea altogether. YES, the external fans + internal fan on LOW were quieter than the SP5000 internal fan on HIGH!

Ok, here's a weird one...

When I first turn on the projector the display is very bright. After just a couple seconds it dims down a little - still very acceptable though. Any idea why this changes and if there is anyway to get it to stay at the brightness it comes on at?

^ Good question, mine does that too.

I just wanted to say though that I love my SP5000. It's an outstanding display and can really be unleashed using outboard video processing (since the internal stuff is sloppy) and a digital connection. After two years I can't report any problems, and even on an old bulb the projector is still bright enough for viewing in ambient light.

It is supposed to do that. The lamp is sparked with a slightly higher voltage. Pretty sure here.

I did like my SP5000 very much. One of the better HD living room projectors ever in my opinion. Mine did the same thing on the dimming after a couple of seconds and I am pretty sure this is normal operation.

^ Good question, mine does that too.

I just wanted to say though that I love my SP5000. It's an outstanding display and can really be unleashed using outboard video processing (since the internal stuff is sloppy) and a digital connection. After two years I can't report any problems, and even on an old bulb the projector is still bright enough for viewing in ambient light.

whta do you use for outboard processing...you talkin about an upconverting dvd player maybe?

Scott

Thanks for the replies - good to know it's not just mine...

Thanks!

whta do you use for outboard processing...you talkin about an upconverting dvd player maybe?

Scott

Hi ,

Love my SP5000 as well .

I send 480i through HDMI from an OPPO 970HD DVD Player to a DVDO HD+ Video Processor for de-interlacing and scaling . It also allows me to do the Vertical Stretch for 2.35:1 for my Prismasonic Lens . I've used the GetGray Calibration DVD and CalMAN's software with the Spyder-II Probe . I had to add a CC30R Colour Correction Filter as there wasn't enough red from the lamp . Also a Sony PS3 outputting 720p .

Just have to finish the DIY screen and keep working on the room . It never ends :D

Scott....................

Well , today I hate my 5000 :mad: Blew another Lamp . Only 700 hours on this one , which is the first one it ever had .

I was all set to try out a new Cal package and the sucker wouldn't light . At least I found a replacement lamp at a good price .

Scott........................:o

hey other scott...

where did you get that bulb from...i may need a new one soon.

Lately I've noticed (or at least I think I have) that my picture has a slight green tint at the top and a slight red tint at the bottom.

Are my eyes deceiving me or has anyone else had this problem.

Apologies if this has already been addressed but I'm at work and haven't got the time to look through 28 pages of replies. :)

hey other scott...

where did you get that bulb from...i may need a new one soon.

Only good if you're ordering from within Canada but a Google search on the part number should yield a number of sites ...

http://www.tddirect.ca/search/?kw=lamps&p=3

Also showing up in the Google search will be a few "best price" sites which are useful to compare prices around the Net .

Good luck and BTW I'm back to loving my SP5000 again :D

Scott.....................

Lately I've noticed (or at least I think I have) that my picture has a slight green tint at the top and a slight red tint at the bottom.

Are my eyes deceiving me or has anyone else had this problem.

Apologies if this has already been addressed but I'm at work and haven't got the time to look through 28 pages of replies. :)

If it's a "large" smear of colour covering a large section of the image then you might be looking at a dust buildup on the polarizing plates . Some courageous owners have cleaned these items successfully . If the colour patches are "blobs" then you may have dust particles on one or more of the colour filters . Again cleanable , I've done it :p.

I'll search for those links and post back .

Scott..............

Here we go ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=572889&highlight=Dust+blobs

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=556431&highlight=Dust+blobs

Maybe a different projector model but the theory is the same . If you are unwilling to risk an entry into your PJ then a simple trip to the Infocus Service Centre for a cleaning will also do the trick.

Let us know what you end up doing .

Scott..............:)

hey other scott...

where did you get that bulb from...i may need a new one soon.

Another option i've seen on avs
http://www.provantage.com/infocus-sp-lamp-017~7INFB04U.htm

If it's a "large" smear of colour covering a large section of the image then you might be looking at a dust buildup on the polarizing plates . Some courageous owners have cleaned these items successfully . If the colour patches are "blobs" then you may have dust particles on one or more of the colour filters . Again cleanable , I've done it :p.

I'll search for those links and post back .

Scott..............
I wouldn't call it a smear. More like the tinting you get at the top of your windshield.

I've been a lurker for quite a while, and love my SP5000. I have about 1600 hours on the original bulb, but it's starting to act up. It powers on, but after about 30 seconds goes dark. The lamp turns off, and the fans quiet down a bit. After about a minute, the lamp comes back on again. Then, I lose it after 30 seconds or so. The cycle repeats endlessly. On other days--it just works.

Is this a symptom of a lamp that's failing, or is it more likely a ballast or power supply issue? I get no error codes whatsoever. If this is how a bulb fails--great, I'll buy another one. But if this is an indication of bigger problems, I may as well just retire this projector.

Any thoughts? What are the symptoms of a failing lamp? I alway thought it would just fail to strike and give me an error code--but this is different. Thanks for your help.

I've been a lurker for quite a while, and love my SP5000. I have about 1600 hours on the original bulb, but it's starting to act up. It powers on, but after about 30 seconds goes dark. The lamp turns off, and the fans quiet down a bit. After about a minute, the lamp comes back on again. Then, I lose it after 30 seconds or so. The cycle repeats endlessly. On other days--it just works.

Is this a symptom of a lamp that's failing, or is it more likely a ballast or power supply issue? I get no error codes whatsoever. If this is how a bulb fails--great, I'll buy another one. But if this is an indication of bigger problems, I may as well just retire this projector.

Any thoughts? What are the symptoms of a failing lamp? I alway thought it would just fail to strike and give me an error code--but this is different. Thanks for your help.

I wish I could be of specific help to you but my lamp failures have been simple , it just doesn't strike . However , with that many hours on the lamp , that would be the easiest item to replace to check the system . There were some odd thoughts a few years back that when the counters reached a certain number the lamps would fail to strike thus forcing a replacement . I've seen lamps as low $223.00 . Certainly cheaper than a new PJ :D

Scott.................

Thanks for the advice. I've seen at least one other thread where this issue was reported, but no solution was posted. One other thing I've noticed is that while the lamp is off, the remote doesn't work. For example, I can't turn off the projector with the remote. Once the lamp lights again, it starts responding.

The more I think about it, the more it sounds like a power supply issue of some sort. I'd hate to spend $200-$300 on a bulb, only to then have to replace the projector. I wonder how much of an improvement an Epson Home Cinema 720 would be? This may be a good excuse to upgrade. :)

First Post - Hope it's in the right place...
Purchased a screenplay 5000 18 months ago and have been super pleased with it.
But the lamp won't strike anymore. The Power LED starts off green and then reverts to a one-blink orange error code. Fans are running normally, button LED check on startup completes, but lamp doesn't come on :( Is there any sequence of button pushing on startup that can reset any counters inside the PJ that may be inhibiting correct operation? Any ideas anyone? Thanks.

First Post - Hope it's in the right place...
Purchased a screenplay 5000 18 months ago and have been super pleased with it.
But the lamp won't strike anymore. The Power LED starts off green and then reverts to a one-blink orange error code. Fans are running normally, button LED check on startup completes, but lamp doesn't come on :( Is there any sequence of button pushing on startup that can reset any counters inside the PJ that may be inhibiting correct operation? Any ideas anyone? Thanks.

Use thread search for lamp strike, I would unplug the 5000, try again and then reseat the lamp.

First Post - Hope it's in the right place...
Purchased a screenplay 5000 18 months ago and have been super pleased with it.
But the lamp won't strike anymore. The Power LED starts off green and then reverts to a one-blink orange error code. Fans are running normally, button LED check on startup completes, but lamp doesn't come on :( Is there any sequence of button pushing on startup that can reset any counters inside the PJ that may be inhibiting correct operation? Any ideas anyone? Thanks.

Do you have an idea on how many hours were on the lamp?It won't last forever :) Mine exhibited the same scenario when my lamp died . The flashing lamp code is in the operator's manual too .

Scott..................

I have over 2200 hrs on my lamp and it gives me no problem at all and is still quite bright.

Thanks very much Davin, Scott_R_K and Vic for your suggestions. It was a demo model when I bought it, and didn't pay too much attention to lamp hours I'm afraid, until now. These lamps are expensive little buggers aren't they!! I found a chap in Southport who rebuilds these lamps for a good price (lamps4U). I'm tempted to give him a try.
Thanks again.

The lamp / filter access door switch gets wacky too as the case warps some over the life of this projector.. Next time it doesn't stike try to squish the projector together some with one hand on each side thumbs on bottom fingers on top.

You can get creative with a twisty bread tie to make better contact with the switch as the door closes before you screw it back down.

Just clocked 4000hrs on one bulb. Sweet.

Simon, great lamp life! :D

I'm still not sure whether my ballast or bulb is failing. My symptoms are exactly as described in this Optoma thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10603607#post10603607

The bulb lights, then goes dim. The weird thing is the remote and buttons are unresponsive when the lamp dims.

A few days ago I had enough, and purchased a Panasonic PTAX200U. I loved the black levels and color compared to the ScreenPlay, but I could not get it focused. Either the top right corner was focused or the lower left--there was no happy medium. The convergence was also much worse than the ScreenPlay. So the Panny went back to the store.

I re-seated the bulb in the ScreenPlay, and so far it's been working. Has anyone else had the bulb just dim and come back?

Edit: By "dim" I mean the lamp turns off completely.

Well bit the bullet and bought a new lamp for the Screenplay 5000, and was greatly relieved when the projector sprang back into life with its new lamp installed. I took a look at the number of lamp hours stored in memory for the previous lamp, and it showed around 400 hours. The projector was sold to me as a demo model, so I can only imagine that the shop reset the lamp hour counter before they put it in the box. Anyway, nice to have a picture back up on the wall. On the box the lamp came in it says that the lamp was assembled in China, but the bulb made in Belgium. It's supposed to be the genuine Infocus part. We'll see how it goes.
Steve

I love "bumping" an old Thread , must cause a few raised eyebrows :D.

Anyway , I'm still looking for anyone that has had their 5000 calibrated either professionally or with their own tools . I'd like to compare settings .

Scott.............:rolleyes:

HD DVE Basics Brightness 37, Contrast 58, colors @ 50. Can check later when sun goes down as TV is being used. Set to film-?

HD DVE Basics Brightness 37, Contrast 58, colors @ 50. Can check later when sun goes down as TV is being used. Set to film-?
Hello Davinleeds ;
I'm using an external VP so the SP5000 is set to "native" . This has an odd effect of partially disabling the Contrast and Brightness controls so I've left them at 50 and set those functions through the VP.
I'm using the Getgray Cal disk , an Oppo 970 DVD Player and HDMI /DVI to the PJ .I'm also using a Spyder-II Sensor with CalMAN software .Here are my final settings...
Gamma=Photography
Temp=Medium
Red gain=38
Green gain=31
Blue gain=48
Red offset=49
Green offset=48
Blue offset=47
Red gamma=52
Green gamma=46
Blue gamma=55

I also had to add a CC30R red compensating filter in front of the lense as this unit does not put out enough Red . I've got a good grayscale and a 2.3 gamma .

Cheers ,

Scott...................

Looks good, I'll try those out next time I fire it up. I find no problem with red but do have a time toning down the green. The DVE disk advises to calibrate each "feed". I guess that's why there are 3 user settings. I don't have any experience with the Spyder but it does seem like it would be more accurate in settings than a four color filter DVE provides. The lower brightness and higher contrast seemed wrong at first since I was use to 50 but It does seem more natural now. I still have that damn dust blob shown in my Aeon Flux post some time ago. Have you calibrated with any HD? I kinda like film but I'll set it to Photo with your settings. Thanks

Have a small problem...

But my father in-law an HD DVD A1 player to use with his Screenplay 5000. I have it hooked up via HDMi to a converted that goes into the #2 lot on the projector (like others here have).

However, the screen size is way too big when I make the A1 display 720p. Now, he had a 480i DVD player before and it fit the screen perfectly, and I brought my HD DVD A2 player over, and at 480p it (still via HDMI) it fits the screen just fine. If I jump to 720p the picture becomes too big an spills out over screen. I tried adjusting the projector setting between native and 16:9 but same results. The projector is about 20 or so feet away from the screen and is focused in so it delivers the smaller picture possible.

What am I doing wrong?

Hi ,

It sounds like the SP5000 is interpreting the 720p Hi-Def signal incorrectly and thinks that it is a 4:3 image instead of 16:9 . Are you using a DVI-D to HDMI cable or adaptor ? A standard DVI-A cable will not carry all the appropriate signals and this is where , possibly , the SP5000 is getting confused . At lower resolutions, 480p , it can pass them and is happy .

Can you connect via Component and see if that will work ? I don't know enough about the A1 or A2 if they will pass 720p over Component . It would definitely highlight the area of concern .

Keep us posted .

Scott................:confused:

I bought this adapter:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10419&cs_id=1041906&p_id=2689&seq=1&format=2
coupled with an HDMI Cable.

The HDMI to M1 should work. I had this projector and never had issues with 720p connected that way. The new owner runs 720p to it via the VGA connector as well.

Still the same problem with both the A1 and A2.

Hey GizmoDVD...any luck yet ? Is there anything we could look at in our setups that might help you ? Let us know .

Scott.....................

The new HDMI receivers will Not work with the Screenplay 5000. I bought the Pioneer VSX1018AH-K last weekend and had to return it. No on screen display (OSD). The audio would not work with the HDMI interface. The video would only work through component. I have the HDMI/M1 adaptor, but it wouldn't do the trick. Apparently the amp pegged it as a HDCP violation. In frustration, I went out and got the Yamaha V663, with similar results. I was able to get the OSD menu up, but the picture decayed remarkably over 480i. Source input reports HDMI/DVI interface. I was able to get the audio from the amp, however. So yes, it is happy at lower resolutions. I'm not though, so it was returned also. Hopefully this note will save someone else time & effort. Unless, does anyone know of a gee-whiz adaptor that can fool an amp into believing it's an HDMI instead of a DVI? Otherwise I'm out shopping for a new PJ.

I can say.. My Marantz SR7001 worked flawlessly with my SP5000. Well as flawless as HDMI gets anyways. :)

The problem with OSD is many AVR's output that at 480i, very few displays support 480i over HDMI. The Maranzt outputs it at 480p, well pretty sure, but it's been a looong time since I had the SP5000, but I did use it for a few months.

I was in HDMI switching hell with the SP5000 until I got the Marantz. I have been pleased as punch with the Marantz across many projectors and displays at this point.

Hey GizmoDVD...any luck yet ? Is there anything we could look at in our setups that might help you ? Let us know .

Scott.....................

Nope, no luck. I just brought over my LG 200 and the picture is bigger then his screen...even at the smallest possible angle. Tried HDMI and component. The projector to the screen is about 20-22 feet away. Works fine on an old DVD player they have but neither my A2/A3 or LG 200 can figure this out. Very frustrating.

Here is a picture I just took with my phone...
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/7985/photogw0.th.jpg (http://img257.imageshack.us/my.php?image=photogw0.jpg)

The one issue it may be...

the screen is hung at an angle (caddy cornered) so, obviously the projector would be at an angle as well. Could this be the main issue? And if so

seems it's zoomed out. Auto image has no affect?

In calc proj. http://www.infocus.com/ProjectionCalculator.aspx

21' has 148" diag min and 177" diag max.

Would it be better closer?

seems it's zoomed out. Auto image has no affect?

In calc proj. http://www.infocus.com/ProjectionCalculator.aspx

21' has 148" diag min and 177" diag max.

Would it be better closer?

We moved it waaaaay closer and it looks a lot better. He is getting fed up with it and ready to buy a TV now.

been using a monoprice HDMI Switch for years with no issue and 4 HDMI sourcces.

I found this thread when searching on Google... looks like some knowledgeable people who can help me out :)

I have an SP5000. I bought it off ebay about 2.5 years ago - but don't put a lot of hours on it since my daughter was born about 2 years ago. There is about 1300hrs on the lamp. When I bought it the ad said it came with new lamp, but there was no way for me to prove that - the lamp counter did read 0 - but that's easy to reset.

The problem I'm having is that when I turn the projector on, it seems way more dim and far less contrast than it used to. Anyway, I don't know when exactly this problem started happening, but sometime in the past couple months. Another thing I've noticed is that when it used to turn on it would come on 'bright' then dim slightly after a minute or so, but now it just seems to come on really really dim and then slowly get brighter, but full brightness is still far less than it used to be. It doesn't matter what input I use.

So I'm guessing the problem is that it just needs a new bulb. Does anyone else think it might be something else? Just want others opinions before I spend the hundreds of dollars on a new lamp. The thing that is kinda making me nervous is the whole issue with it not turning on over-bright and going into dimmer mode (in an instant) but this whole slowly getting brighter - I don't know much about it, but hopefully this isn't a symptom of the polarizer going bad or something. I do the filter cleaning every time it reminds me to without delay - and otherwise it seems in great shape.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Many thanks!

I have not experienced this brightning then dimming. I've had mine since 06 and I'm sure the bulb is less bright, but it's still crisp. And I use it just about every weekend and then some.

I found this thread when searching on Google... looks like some knowledgeable people who can help me out :)

I have an SP5000. I bought it off ebay about 2.5 years ago - but don't put a lot of hours on it since my daughter was born about 2 years ago. There is about 1300hrs on the lamp. When I bought it the ad said it came with new lamp, but there was no way for me to prove that - the lamp counter did read 0 - but that's easy to reset.

The problem I'm having is that when I turn the projector on, it seems way more dim and far less contrast than it used to. Anyway, I don't know when exactly this problem started happening, but sometime in the past couple months. Another thing I've noticed is that when it used to turn on it would come on 'bright' then dim slightly after a minute or so, but now it just seems to come on really really dim and then slowly get brighter, but full brightness is still far less than it used to be. It doesn't matter what input I use.

So I'm guessing the problem is that it just needs a new bulb. Does anyone else think it might be something else? Just want others opinions before I spend the hundreds of dollars on a new lamp. The thing that is kinda making me nervous is the whole issue with it not turning on over-bright and going into dimmer mode (in an instant) but this whole slowly getting brighter - I don't know much about it, but hopefully this isn't a symptom of the polarizer going bad or something. I do the filter cleaning every time it reminds me to without delay - and otherwise it seems in great shape.

Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Many thanks!

Be sure to check "ALL" your Power connections from the wall plug , power cable , any filters etc. up to the PJ . If you're having any bad Mains Power feeds you can get the same effect . I had a cheap power bar in my setup and it would do that plus when it dimmed I would get Vertical Banding in the image .Upgraded everything in the power path to the best I could and now everything is stable and bright .

Scott......................

I finally got my projector working perfectly again after experiencing the "dim" problem...

The issue WAS the lamp. I ordered a new lamp from projectorlampexperts. First I ordered their "alternative" lamp, which is a cheaper lamp that isn't the oem lamp. I saved well over $100. But after installing the lamp, the brightness definitely wasn't acceptable for a 'new' lamp. I thought my projector was dirty inside, so I proceeded to disassemble the whole thing and clean it. I documented the whole procedure, with photos - so I'll post the pictures and instructions soon. After cleaning the PJ, the new lamp still wasn't bright. Then I noticed that the new lamp didn't look the same as my original oem lamp. The new lamp definitely was a cheap knock-off! The glass was not as clear, and the reflector was no where near as reflective. I figured the brightness was only about 50% that of a new oem lamp. See this picture - the 'new' alternative lamp is on the left, and my old oem lamp is on the right. See how poor the alternative lamp is! :eek:
So I phoned projectorlampexperts, and they were very friendly and gladly let me return the 'alternative' lamp and then I purchased the oem lamp from them. It was good service. After installing the new oem lamp my PJ is fresh and new and beautiful! WOWSERS - a new lamp is really fun! It was so incredibly bright and wonderful again :)

Comparison of BRAND NEW 'alternative' (left) vs 'oem' (right) lamp attached:
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3417/3508482013_dc6de06928.jpg

That's great info and thanks. Looking forward to your photos. I'm guessing the oem is around 400.

As I mentioned above, when I was trying to figure out my "dim" (PJ brightness) issue, I disassembled my PJ in an attempt to clean it. Below is what I did. By no means am I an expert, I'm just sharing what I did. All comments and other suggestions on further cleaning instructions are more than welcome! :cool:

NOTE: if you try this - please read all the instructions before beginning to familiarize yourself with the procedure and comments I make.

Steps:

1) Remove the lamp door screw (yellow). Now you can lift the lamp door, and then lift the lens filter door.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3409/3509397589_ca2bd74c05.jpg


2) Unscrew the 2 screws holding the lamp in place (red). Lift the little bar on the lamp and carefully lift up and remove the lamp from the PJ. Note: the screws don't need to be fully removed from the lamp to unseat it.
Now use a torx screwdriver to remove the 4 case screws (yellow).

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3322/3510210152_6951504d8d.jpg


3) Flip the PJ over and carefully lift the lid of the PJ slightly, and then gently twist and slide over the lens. Be careful because there are cables connecting the PJ lid to the mainboard of the PJ - how to remove this in the next steps.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3622/3510211568_54ceab96ff.jpg


4) Remove the ribbon cable (that is attached to the lid) from the PJ main board by sliding the 2 clips (red) at the edges of the connector out so that the ribbon cable slips out.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3598/3510212864_f07c2b7ee4.jpg


5) Detach the IR cable (that is attached to the lid) from the mainboard connector (red) and carefully unhook the wires from the clip.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3118/3509403291_db5b1b8130.jpg


6) Remove the 6 screws (red) that are on either side of each input connector using a standard screwdriver. Also remove the torx screw by the svideo connector (red with arrow).

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3383/3510216004_3e6b672df3.jpg


7) Remove all 9 connectors (red) around the edg of the PCB.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3014/3509406183_fd9e8d49d5.jpg


8) For each of the 3 ribbon cables going to the combiner, flip up the black bar on the connector. This releases the cable so it can slide out, but these connectors are a little tight, so if you have trouble, slide a precision screwdriver under the cable to assist. Just make sure the black bar is lifted for all 3 ribbon cable connectors. Also note that you will need to press firmly to get the cable back into the connector.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3658/3509407101_b78249ebb1.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3591/3510219928_37d1aa3025.jpg


9) Unscrew all 5 torx screws (red) from the mainboard. Note that one of the screws holds the PCB ground wire. Don't forget to reconnect this when you put it back together!

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3360/3509410131_062b22ae50.jpg


10) Remove the metal ground bracket (highlighted red) by slowly lifting each end and wiggling it up.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3358/3510222562_a28ea4abe0.jpg


11) Gently lift up the PCB and slide it out so that the input jacks slide out of the back. Note the metal ground plate at the back. You'll need to pull a little on the PCB and push the plate to guide the input jacks out.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3637/3509412873_03af5daa08.jpg


12) Place the mainboard on an anti-static bag.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3309/3509414315_80ecf96637.jpg


13) Remove the two phillips screws (red) on the bracket holding the lens system in place. Carefully lift the lens system and combining block out (they are attached together).

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3371/3509415197_3e64c8b4c8.jpg


14) Now the 3 polarize colour filters are exposed. They can be unscrewed (red) with precision phillips screwdriver to remove and clean them as well as the glass behind each one. Do this only one-at-a-time so you don't mix up which filter goes where.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3328/3509416545_99a6e1775e.jpg


15) Also use compressed air to blow into the lenses and clean out other areas with vacuum and proper lens cloth, etc.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3637/3510229504_c31f041cb0.jpg


16) Also clean the lens on the underside which is directly at the lamp input.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3352/3510231052_d55a07ce11.jpg


17) I didn't bother to touch the LCD panels because if you move them at all you will throw off their alignment and that won't be good. I did give them a little hit of compressed air from a safe distance to knock off any lose dust. I also did not disassemble the main lens system as it appears sealed.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3646/3510232036_d25685bd0d.jpg



<end of steps>

Well - I hope others find something useful in this.
Cheers

I currently have an Oppo DVD player connected via DVI to the SP5000 through the M1-to-DVI input. If I get a Bluray player with HDMI output, and use HDMI-to-DVI adapter so I can use my existing DVI cable going to the PJ, does anyone know of any problems I might have? Or should I get an M1-to-HDMI adapter?

I'm asking because there seems to be a number of comments on here about HDMI issues with the SP5000.

The new HDMI receivers will Not work with the Screenplay 5000. I bought the Pioneer VSX1018AH-K last weekend and had to return it. No on screen display (OSD). The audio would not work with the HDMI interface. The video would only work through component. I have the HDMI/M1 adaptor, but it wouldn't do the trick. Apparently the amp pegged it as a HDCP violation. In frustration, I went out and got the Yamaha V663, with similar results. I was able to get the OSD menu up, but the picture decayed remarkably over 480i. Source input reports HDMI/DVI interface. I was able to get the audio from the amp, however. So yes, it is happy at lower resolutions. I'm not though, so it was returned also. Hopefully this note will save someone else time & effort. Unless, does anyone know of a gee-whiz adaptor that can fool an amp into believing it's an HDMI instead of a DVI? Otherwise I'm out shopping for a new PJ.

Ah nuts! I was looking at getting the VSX1018... I really like the Pioneer receivers. Oh well - maybe this is the excuse I need to go to a new 1080p PJ :)

Hello burnOgas ,

You are indeed a brave HT enthusiast ! I've had my SP5000 apart to blow away some dust blobs but not to the extent you've taken . Well done ! There have been Posts and Threads on cleaning the Polarizers to remove static dust build up there that causes an uneven white uniformity across the screen . Your procedure should allow these filters to be cleaned safely . Nice job . Not sure if I'm brave enough yet though .

Cheers ,

Scott................................

Has anyone tried the LG BD370 Bluray player with the SP5000? I'm thinking of getting this player, and will be connecting it with an HDMI to DVI adapter since I already have DVI cabling running to the projector. Just wanted to see if anyone has had any issues.

Your posts are fantastic. I have the infocus H15 to hdmi adapter I use a pc and have used an insignia bd player with no issues

Sorry to bump an old thread. I am trying to watch coraline on Blu ray through my ps3 on my projector. Either the projector or the ps3 is shifting the image over and cutting half of the picture off in 3d as well as the 2d version. It is playing the BD at 1280x1024 and info on the projector says sxvga instead of High defintion for the image source it is receiving. Is there any setting I can mess with to fix the picture.

Try auto image on the remote. Maybe a ps3 setting cause afaik no 3d for this pj.

Auto image should do it

Allright I have 2300 hours on my bulb (first bulb) in my sp5000. I have been very happy with the pj other than the door latch issue. I am at the point I either need to order a bulb or sell it and get something different. What do you guys recomend. I worry about putting a new bulb in the unit and having something else go wrong. What are these things worth used if I were to sell it? I am looking to do this a cheap as possible and would probably purchase another budget style PJ if I decide to replace it.

Did I screw up?

I tore apart the projector based on the instructions above. (clean and replace fans).

I reassembled in reverse order, and now the POWER button does not light when I plug in the power cord. :confused:

The ribbon cable to the top is snug. The ground wires are installed. I've moved the ground plate left and right thinking that the top required good ground. No help.

Anyone have a suggestion?

I've come in late on this discussion but i have a couple of issues I'm hoping to find answers for.

The two issues I have had have been there since i bought the projector off eBay a few months ago. Firstly the screen was discoloured and secondly I could not get 720p working through the M1 connector.

The discolouration ended up being the Blue Polarizer. I replace that and now no discolouration which is great. Got the polarizer off eBay for $25.

Then I moved on to the 720p issues. Tried upgrading the Firmware(current 753-0363-10) and had not joy. Different cables, going through component, all with no success. If anyone has any idea what else i can try i would really appreciate it. I'm running a Yahama Blu Ray (1065 model) through a Yahama 1065 Receiver. All i get is EDTV as the source description.

Also since i upgraded the firmware the fans are actually louder (this version was supposed to make then quieter). I would like to go back to 753-0363-09 but cant find it anywhere on the net. Infocus dont have it available for download either. Does anyone know where i can get a copy of this firmware??

I had issues too, had to get an actual Infocus M1 hdmi adapter, but that was years ago.

Thanks Davinleeds - Did you have one of the generic M1 adaptors and that didnt work? Then bought the Infocus one and it sorted out the issue?? Thanks for you input.

https://portal.infocus.com/support/Product%20Pages/downloads.aspx?mic=SP5000&on=downloads

Did I screw up?

I tore apart the projector based on the instructions above. (clean and replace fans).

I reassembled in reverse order, and now the POWER button does not light when I plug in the power cord. :confused:

The ribbon cable to the top is snug. The ground wires are installed. I've moved the ground plate left and right thinking that the top required good ground. No help.

Anyone have a suggestion?UPDATE: I screwed up. I broke the switch to the lamp door...well, one of the pink connectors tore off the switch. Bought a used one and all is good.

Thanks Davinleeds - Did you have one of the generic M1 adaptors and that didnt work? Then bought the Infocus one and it sorted out the issue?? Thanks for you input.Not sure about Davinleeds, but I've never had problems with 720p.

I installed an HDMI <-> M1 cable. In hindsight, I probably should have installed an HDMI cable and used an M1 adapter, but seeing your post, maybe not.

What brand M1 adapter are you using? Have you contacted the seller? Did they have any issues with 720p?

It was a generic cheap adaptor (yes i know, shortcuts!!). Off ebay. Supplier said it should be fine, but that was about it. cost me $6 where as the Infocus one is $49 which i still may buy. not bothering to send the cheap one back as it does work, just not in HD. I have read other stories in other forums regarding the adaptor not working properly. I have tested my cables with other devices and they send through HD signals fine, just not to the projector. I will post here if replacing the adpator works but i am still tossing up as to whether it is worth the investment.

It was a generic cheap adaptor (yes i know, shortcuts!!). Off ebay. Supplier said it should be fine, but that was about it. cost me $6 where as the Infocus one is $49 which i still may buy. not bothering to send the cheap one back as it does work, just not in HD. I have read other stories in other forums regarding the adaptor not working properly. I have tested my cables with other devices and they send through HD signals fine, just not to the projector. I will post here if replacing the adpator works but i am still tossing up as to whether it is worth the investment.My HDMI <-> M1 cable is from Monoprice. They have an M1 adapter <-> HDMI female for $6. Might want to risk another $6. Not sure if they have the OEM, too, but if so, might want to consider getting both and sending back the one that does not work.

When you say that you are not getting 720p, how do you know?
BTW, my SP5000 handshakes with my HD output devices via HDMI and flashes in the lower left corner "xxxx x 720".

MY SP5000 shows the resolution as 420 when detecting the signal (bottom left hand of screen). Also my blu ray (Yamaha - couple of months old) cannot display in 720p whilst connected to the projector. It states the display device cannot display this resolution. If set to auto detect resolution on blu ray player, only displays 420. If you unplug the projector you can then change the blu ray to 720p or 1080i. Plug the projector in again and no image appears until you reduce to 420. As i live in australia there are not so cheap shipping costs and tarriffs for stuf from the States so I'm reluctant to keep doing the hit and miss approach. Happy for you assistance thought:)

MY SP5000 shows the resolution as 420 when detecting the signal (bottom left hand of screen). Also my blu ray (Yamaha - couple of months old) cannot display in 720p whilst connected to the projector. It states the display device cannot display this resolution. If set to auto detect resolution on blu ray player, only displays 420. If you unplug the projector you can then change the blu ray to 720p or 1080i. Plug the projector in again and no image appears until you reduce to 420. As i live in australia there are not so cheap shipping costs and tarriffs for stuf from the States so I'm reluctant to keep doing the hit and miss approach. Happy for you assistance thought:)If it were me, I'd call around to different local AV stores/supplies to see if someone stocked the Infocus M1 adapter (all Infocus projectors use them). I'd ask about the return policy and go from there. If it does not work, why do you need to be stung with the cost of a $50 adapter?

If there are no M1 suppliers locally, will Infocus support answer this question for you? Maybe a reflash of the firmware (or a trial of older firmware versions)? BTW, I've never flashed my SP5000 since I got it in Mar 2006.

Finally, could it be the blu-ray player? Once again, try a different source - a different blu-ray player, a media player (I use the Patriot Box Office, and it says 720p) or an HD tuner (I also use an LG OTA HD tuner/DVD player for television broadcasts).

If it were me, I'd call around to different local AV stores/supplies to see if someone stocked the Infocus M1 adapter (all Infocus projectors use them). I'd ask about the return policy and go from there. If it does not work, why do you need to be stung with the cost of a $50 adapter?

If there are no M1 suppliers locally, will Infocus support answer this question for you? Maybe a reflash of the firmware (or a trial of older firmware versions)? BTW, I've never flashed my SP5000 since I got it in Mar 2006.

Finally, could it be the blu-ray player? Once again, try a different source - a different blu-ray player, a media player (I use the Patriot Box Office, and it says 720p) or an HD tuner (I also use an LG OTA HD tuner/DVD player for television broadcasts).

So far i have not been able to find anywhere in Australia that stock the adaptor. The story is the same - 2 to 3 weeks and we'll have them in stock. Couple of weeks go by and the same story. Plus in Australia they are $100 + which is a little steep for an adaptor in my view. Alot of the US stores i have found wont do returns from overseas.

I havent contacted infocus support myself, but i read another guy who did was told that it was the fact he was using a no brand and needed to get the infocus one. I think he was having the debate as me... do i spend the money for the adpator. I have had version 9 of the firmware, which didnt work, then flashed to v10 and still no change. Only thing it did do is make my fans noiser (which v10 was actually supposed to do the reverse). I have not been able to locate any older versions of the firmware although i have read that both v9 and v10 should be fine.

I havent tryed a different source so will look at borrowing my brother in laws set top box. I think i will also try the component connections to see if they display in HD. Just need to find someone who has those cables. Dont want to spend the money just for a test! Again thanks for your ongoing advise.

Spincontrol, I had a check on monoprice and saw that to buy a whole cable hmdi - m1 is actually cheaper than buying the infocus adpator and getting it shipped. I also noted that there were comments from other shoppers that the cable worked fine with their infocus SP5000 without hitch. This is looking like a better option. I will always have my main HDMI cable for future use so dont really care about buying a cable that is limited to infocus. I will still try the other test scenarios first though.:)

Spincontrol, I had a check on monoprice and saw that to buy a whole cable hmdi - m1 is actually cheaper than buying the infocus adpator and getting it shipped. I also noted that there were comments from other shoppers that the cable worked fine with their infocus SP5000 without hitch. This is looking like a better option. I will always have my main HDMI cable for future use so dont really care about buying a cable that is limited to infocus. I will still try the other test scenarios first though.:)I have the 30' cable (HDMI <> M1), and it works fine. Granted this was purchased 4 years ago, so as long as they did not change the supplier/specs, it should work.

I think that the reviews on the M1 adapter <> female HDMI were favorable as well.

Have you tried: Any local Infocus dealers? Contacting the seller?

I cannot believe that your projector is the only one that cannot display 720p, therefore, I think that it is either the adapter or the source.

I have the 30' cable (HDMI <> M1), and it works fine. Granted this was purchased 4 years ago, so as long as they did not change the supplier/specs, it should work.

I think that the reviews on the M1 adapter <> female HDMI were favorable as well.

Have you tried: Any local Infocus dealers? Contacting the seller?

I cannot believe that your projector is the only one that cannot display 720p, therefore, I think that it is either the adapter or the source.

Hey Spincontrol - what AV Receiver are you using. I have read somewhere that Yamaha Recievers (New ones) wont play HD on the SP5000. Not sure if this is fact or fiction, but my receiver is a Yamaha RX-V1065 with matching Blu Ray player. I dont know anyone that has a HD receiver i can test this theory on. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Hey Spincontrol - what AV Receiver are you using. I have read somewhere that Yamaha Recievers (New ones) wont play HD on the SP5000. Not sure if this is fact or fiction, but my receiver is a Yamaha RX-V1065 with matching Blu Ray player. I dont know anyone that has a HD receiver i can test this theory on. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.Sorry for the late reply.

I direct connect any HDMI source to the projector. I do not feed it through a receiver.

Wow ! Glad to see there's life in this old Thread afterall and people are still using this PJ . Anyone had any luck with finding a Service Manual or at least the Service Code ? I'd love to see what's in there .

Scott.....................:)