RE: Just wondering if anyone knows how long I can expect repairs to replace the engine to take?


Terminaldawn,

FYI: The light engine takes LESS than an hour to swap out.... and that's if you're on the slow side. :)

Thanks We! Did you look at the pics i posted in my above posts? Does this look familiar to any problems you have had?

I really would like to know what is wrong so I have more ammunition to use to get a new set. I have a feeling that this is going to go really bad. I first called the shop and they wanted to pick it up and not even look at it first. So I told them they would have to look at it first. They came out and said that the engine could be bad and something else (i cant remember what) could be bad. They said that I didnt want them replacing the engine in my living room because there would be parts all over, etc... Man I am so upset at myself right now for being a sucker.

Another newbie here. I have an 52" g786 coming next week. I am new to HD and RPTV, but I have been lurking and absorbing all the info I can from this amazing forum.

I need to get a decent progressive scan DVD player but am limited to $200 or under for the price. I recalll in several posts there being a problem with the panny s97 and the Oppo due to the Faroudja chip set. I would like to know which DVD players are compatible with the JVC and what results other have had. I have searched the thread and found this question posted a few times but I was unable to find any responses. Thanks.
I have both the Sony NS70 and the Pioneer 588A-S. The Pioneer only has component output, but I like the picture that way better anyways. I turned Gamma to MID and brightness/contrast both to +2. Sharpness is standard and everything else is 0 or off. My TV sharpness is -30 and brightness/contrast are +2 on there as well. (mine is 56" so your settings may slightly differ.) I get great blacks and details with this combo, everything looks more "organic". The Sony was a tad bit sharp even at -30 on my TV and it sometimes prodoced double letters. Neither is a bad player, but I prefer the Pio 588.

P.S. the XBOX 360 is nice too........it's actually right up with these 2 DVD players in quality....but I still prefer the Pio 588 a tad over it.

[QUOTE=DIGITAL HAZE

P.S. the XBOX 360 is nice too........it's actually right up with these 2 DVD players in quality....but I still prefer the Pio 588 a tad over it.[/QUOTE]



360 only nice!? what about games? I have the greenlight(from the overlord) to purchase one when they are available. it would be nice to see it in action on a d-ila.

you folks know of any good threads on rear projection home theater setup in living rooms? i am trying to avoid the "pile of equipment next to the set" look. i have a decent rack for my boxes and i assume longer cables would free up room. as it stands now my set is flanked by speakers and to the right of this is the rack. it seems to be a fairly common configuration. my equipment is gonna be this way for a while, no major changes until blu-ray, adn i would like to appease the overlord and add an asthetic appeal to my living room. on the whole i think it looks great now but its missing something i cant put my finger on. any links related to this would be appreciated. i will post pics later. thanks.

360 only nice!? what about games? I have the greenlight(from the overlord) to purchase one when they are available. it would be nice to see it in action on a d-ila.

Picked one up at launch for the 52g886 but can't give impressions until 12/25.

Picked one up at launch for the 52g886 but can't give impressions until 12/25.


sounds like you have an overlord as well. :) . mine is keeping the harmony 880 dangling in front of me like a carrot on a stick. its all good though.

Hello All,

unfortunately my JVC took a dive with less than 3 months wear on it. I was just wondering how the Authorized Service Center has dealt with any of your issues under warranty that you have had?

My issue currently is that the light engine has went and needs to be replaced. The shop has my TV right now. They basically said that it would be easier for me and them to do it in the shop, that way they wouldnt have to schedule and reschedule appointments with me, etc...

What have your experiences been like? Have you hade "in-home" service or did the shop insist on having the set in the shop to do the repairs?

I am just wondering if I should demmand to have my set back while waiting for the parts to arrive as I hear it takes awhile.

JVC came to my house. the nearest authorized shop was 3 hours away. he did the swap in house. i did have to verify the issue with JVC corp. i sent them pics of the issue which was reproducible. total time from call to fix= 2weeks, the shop had to wait on the part order. i am totally impressed with JVC service but not their callcenters. everybody elses call centers suck too. the engine swap only takes about 30-40 minutes and it fixed my set right up to perfect.

The original set lasted 1 week until failure of a chip on the optical engine. Long story (2 months) short. I ended up writing a letter (old style) to the VP for Consumer Products, JVC America. Sent it on Thursday and got a call from a problem solver on Tuesday. The result? JVC sent me a new TV, set it up in place and took the old one away. I have had the new set for a month now... Love it... sure wish SD came in better.. I pay for all the HD on Dish network and watch only those channels 80% of the time. I do have the Dish HD DVR and love what it can do.




HD 52G786
I bought this TV in October from Buydig com and the delivery went smoothly. HOWEVER.... I got to watch it for about 15 hours before it failed. According to the service manual on page 35, this is the failure.
"Abnormal DD CPU circuit
Detection of serial communication error between MAIN DRIVE PWB and RECEIVER PWB. failed part IC3701 [MAIN DRIVE PWB] code 2 ---------- 0.5 sec interval (flashing LED)"
I have been on the phone with JVC for 3 weeks trying to get this repaired. The main problem is that I am "to far away" from a service center. I have talked nearly every day the JVC customer (non) service folks. Anybody have any ideas how to get a fix?

[FONT=Book Antiqua]
Well here it is 20 days later... I sent a letter to the VP of Consumer Products, JVC America after another long delay without action. I sent the letter on thursday and got a call on Tuesday from JVC corp HQ in NJ. Their solution. Send me a new TV, install it and take away the broken one.
Another result of this problem is that I now have a local service center within 10 miles of my north Mississippi home. I also have a spare bulb. and name recognition with JVC.
BTW the problem with my Optical engine will require a new engine. Cost $1700 according to the part ordering web site. I spent $1900 and the bulb replacement is about $200. That means that all the rest of the "bits" don't cost JVC much.
I'll let you know how it goes when it is delivered.

There was a request to post pics for this. One is an all white screen from AVIA home theatre. I didnt use a flash and as you can see the screen should be all white and there is a greenish or dark tint at the bottom and the whole right side of the screen.

The other pic is of a scene in Episode 2 that you can see the right side and bottom green tint. By the way this happens on all the inputs so its not just the Digital In. Anyone have similar experience or know what the cause of this is?

Thanks,

J


Jesse,

Can't tell too much from the Star Wars pic, but the other one looks
like the light engine.

I read a post the other day in which the poster said he had his light
engine replaced.. and then a few months later it going south again.

He thought it might be "dust". (unconfirmed)


I'd push for a light engine replacement. To get an updated unit.

NOTE that the light engine WILL more than likey be a refurb, not a NEW
part. (which is good in a way since it has been "burned-in".

NOTe also the light engine CAN be done in your HOME. Don't let them
take the SET.

On the issues I had, in which is took 9 months to get a working set,
That was on a Tosihba, not a JVC.

The only way I got the parts, got a replacement unit was calling the
headquaters for Tosihba directly. I have the HEAD of CS, Service in
my cell number.... For a while I knew the number by heart, and the
joke between the her ( the head of CS) and me was her and I talked
probally more than her and her husband.

HD 52G786
I bought this TV in October from Buydig com and the delivery went smoothly. HOWEVER.... I got to watch it for about 15 hours before it failed. According to the service manual on page 35, this is the failure.
"Abnormal DD CPU circuit
Detection of serial communication error between MAIN DRIVE PWB and RECEIVER PWB. failed part IC3701 [MAIN DRIVE PWB] code 2 ---------- 0.5 sec interval (flashing LED)"
I have been on the phone with JVC for 3 weeks trying to get this repaired. The main problem is that I am "to far away" from a service center. I have talked nearly every day the JVC customer (non) service folks. Anybody have any ideas how to get a fix?

Search for the phone number of the Headquaters .... and call them if CS can not get you set up with a service call.


That's how I got a Tosihba set fixed /replaced about 3 years ago.... It took me 9 MONTHS to get a working set.. read some of the details here, allot of details left out... by the time everything was said and done I probably had 100++ hours plus (or more!!!) "invested": http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=474384#POST474384


Here's another idea, before calling them... ASK around your town on who is GOOD on repair, see if they can service JVC.... and then ask for that shop.

I'm getting my 61z786 calibrated next week so it was decided to optimize my the connections to the tv. The previous connections were as follows: Yam dvd-c750 component and optical to yam rxv2500 avr and the Motorola 6412/2000 hd/dvr via component and analog to the yam 2500, then component out of the 2500 to the tv all switching thru the 2500. The qaulity of the picture from the dvd is very good-to-excellent hooked up this way, the quality of the picture from the 6412 is, analog sd-mediocre at best, digital sd-good to very good and the hd is stunning depending on the feed compression (or lack of).

I changed the connections as follows hoping to eliminate any noise, degradation of the video, etc. The dvd is now component direct to tv with optical to avr, the 6412 is dvi/hdmi direct to tv with optical to avr.

I haven't viewed any dvd's yet so i have no experience with the dvd setup this way. However, I checked out the 6412 last night and the picture seems to have really degraded. A & D sd seem to be about the same but the hd has really taken a nose dive. I recorded Papa Roach from HDNET and the video was excellent with the audio ok on the original setup. Now with the dvi/hdmi, optical connections the audio is excellent but, the video leaves much to be desired, actually it sucks now. There's macroblocking on the Roach recording that i've never seen before and a lot of sse on the other hd channels.

I thought the new cabling going direct with the dvi/hdmi would really help, apparently not. Am i doing something wrong here? Should i try component direct to the tv. I don't know. Any help would be appreciated. Btw, the dvi/hdmi is a 4 foot 600 series Monster cable (I'm not sure of the quality of this cable).

Thanks in advance

Finally took the plunge on a HD-52G886. Figured it was just a matter of time, so I might as well get it in time for Christmas.
A couple of logistical questions, that will determine how I pick it up:

- Does anyone know the box dimentions for the 52"? I might have to rent a truck or pay for delivery.

- Is there any harm in transporting it flat? I have heard you shouldn't, but also heard that's only to prevent anything from falling on it and damaging the screen. Anyone brought one home lying flat in the back of an SUV ?

Thanks!

Good ?. I was wondering the same thing. What about bumps and such on the road. How sensitive are these displays anyways? I am looking for the 70" box specs.

Since it appears that the Mits battle might be over, I'm back looking at this as my replacement.
Looking for all of you that have these hooked to your HTPC using the HDMI input. What card are you using since a 9600 Pro doesn't work?

tmb75, it may ride in an suv upright. the box is just a little taller than the set. i would get a few more responses though. good luck with the JVC.

Finally took the plunge on a HD-52G886. Figured it was just a matter of time, so I might as well get it in time for Christmas.
A couple of logistical questions, that will determine how I pick it up:

- Does anyone know the box dimentions for the 52"? I might have to rent a truck or pay for delivery.

- Is there any harm in transporting it flat? I have heard you shouldn't, but also heard that's only to prevent anything from falling on it and damaging the screen. Anyone brought one home lying flat in the back of an SUV ?

Thanks!
tmb75
I picked up my 52g866 in the back of my 2003 Explorer, laid it flat and drove 60 miles to home with absolutely no problems. They are packed pretty well and have to think they receive more jostling about in the back off a big rig than in the back of my SUV. I don't off hand remember the box dimensions but will be happy to measure it when I return home tomorrow (I always keep the box!). To date I have had zero problems with the set, have had it for almost three months (knock on wood) and love it!

tmb75, it may ride in an suv upright. the box is just a little taller than the set. i would get a few more responses though. good luck with the JVC.

Thanks darthsg,
The seats fold but don't come out, so i don't think I'll get it in there upright.

Any comments on the dangers of transporting flat?

HD 52G786
I bought this TV in October from Buydig com and the delivery went smoothly. HOWEVER.... I got to watch it for about 15 hours before it failed. According to the service manual on page 35, this is the failure.
"Abnormal DD CPU circuit
Detection of serial communication error between MAIN DRIVE PWB and RECEIVER PWB. failed part IC3701 [MAIN DRIVE PWB] code 2 ---------- 0.5 sec interval (flashing LED)"
I have been on the phone with JVC for 3 weeks trying to get this repaired. The main problem is that I am "to far away" from a service center. I have talked nearly every day the JVC customer (non) service folks. Anybody have any ideas how to get a fix?

I managed to get this number from one of the techs 18002231060 - i think i pressed option 5. The guy I talked to is going to call the shop to find out what is going on with my set. I would give that number a try.... OR call buydig and tell them your issue. If they are nice they may just swap the set...

J

Jesse,

Can't tell too much from the Star Wars pic, but the other one looks
like the light engine.

I read a post the other day in which the poster said he had his light
engine replaced.. and then a few months later it going south again.

He thought it might be "dust". (unconfirmed)


I'd push for a light engine replacement. To get an updated unit.

NOTE that the light engine WILL more than likey be a refurb, not a NEW
part. (which is good in a way since it has been "burned-in".

NOTe also the light engine CAN be done in your HOME. Don't let them
take the SET.

On the issues I had, in which is took 9 months to get a working set,
That was on a Tosihba, not a JVC.

The only way I got the parts, got a replacement unit was calling the
headquaters for Tosihba directly. I have the HEAD of CS, Service in
my cell number.... For a while I knew the number by heart, and the
joke between the her ( the head of CS) and me was her and I talked
probally more than her and her husband.

Thanks for the reply! Basically what has happened now is that First of all they did pick up my set on Monday. This was before I got anyones advice. I had a gut feeling not to let them take it. But, anyways, They have claimed to emailed Video to JVC tech support to authorize the light engine to be sent to them. I managed to get another number from JVC and called them and I have someone getting them on track and to make sure that all is well. However, I am getting nervous because I talked to this guy over 2 hours ago now and NO call back yet. The guy seemed like he knew his stuff and real nice, so I am thinking he will call me back HOPEFULLY. So here is my question.... Should I ask to get my set back, and have them put the light engine in at my house instead of there shop?

Still looking for sucess stories with owners that have their computer connected through the HDMI input.
meshuggah was going to try it, but didn't see a response and he has his PM and e-mail turned off.
One thing the Mits did good was display a 1080 with the aid of powerstrip.

2nd question; for those with OTA and cable NOT using a STB, how is the ability to switch (using an extrenal switch) betwwen both sources handled? IOW's the TV's ability to change from ATSC to QAM through ant. 1 input since ant. 2 is analog only which makes it useless.

Finally took the plunge on a HD-52G886. Figured it was just a matter of time, so I might as well get it in time for Christmas.
A couple of logistical questions, that will determine how I pick it up:

- Does anyone know the box dimentions for the 52"? I might have to rent a truck or pay for delivery.

- Is there any harm in transporting it flat? I have heard you shouldn't, but also heard that's only to prevent anything from falling on it and damaging the screen. Anyone brought one home lying flat in the back of an SUV ?

Thanks!

Find a friend with a truck.. You'd be a fool to lay the set down. You're just ASKING for trouble if you lay it down to transport.

Here's another idea.. Go "test" drive a truck... and see if it fits.

Good ?. I was wondering the same thing. What about bumps and such on the road. How sensitive are these displays anyways? I am looking for the 70" box specs.

If you're going to lay that 70 inch set down to tranport like tmb75
was talking about above... You're asking for big trouble.

How senstive are these displays?

You don't want to go four wheeling that's for sure...

PS: Given the choice, if you could remove the lamp assembly - A two minute job or LESS if the set is unboxed.. it won't hurt.

Thanks for the reply! Basically what has happened now is that First of all they did pick up my set on Monday. This was before I got anyones advice. I had a gut feeling not to let them take it. But, anyways, They have claimed to emailed Video to JVC tech support to authorize the light engine to be sent to them. I managed to get another number from JVC and called them and I have someone getting them on track and to make sure that all is well. However, I am getting nervous because I talked to this guy over 2 hours ago now and NO call back yet. The guy seemed like he knew his stuff and real nice, so I am thinking he will call me back HOPEFULLY. So here is my question.... Should I ask to get my set back, and have them put the light engine in at my house instead of there shop?


RE: So here is my question.... Should I ask to get my set back, and have them put the light engine in at my house instead of there shop?

terminaldawn,

Once they get the set at their shop, they are NOT going to bring it back to your house so the light engine can be put in at your home, instead of in their shop.

From a business prespectve that wouldn't make ANY sense... UNLESS their shop was badly overcrowded.. and the parts for your set were NOT expected for several weeks (or months)

videobruce, i posted this a while back...

56g786 firmware 163
ati aiw x800xt catalyst & drivers from june (release notes say tv is broke with x800xl & october driver release, expect that it would be the same with my card, so did not update)
switching to the digital input & booting up the pc, i saw the bios & startup screens & the xp pro desktop. started at 1280 by 720 & the tv kept cycling between 4x3 & 1280x720. the desktop was missing the sides so i switched to 1280x768 & i saw the whole desktop, but the tv kept switching between what seemed to be 4x3, then 1280x720, then 1280x768. it constantly did this. when viewing the 1280x768 it was not a sharp image, no resolution it stopped at was appealing to the eye. i looked at ati's site but could not find an older (but newer than mine) version of the catalyst driver. may not have been patient enough (someone correct me if they can find older driver revs). did not try the component out, since thats not what any of us is really looking for. i do not have a hdtv wonder. 962 ?

must not have given the results of my brothers nvidea 6600. it was solid dvi to hdmi, but i thought the quality of the picture could have been better. the drivers knew what tv was attached. there was ghosting around fine print. farcry was playable though. res 1280x720.

Search for the phone number of the Headquaters .... and call them if CS can not get you set up with a service call.


That's how I got a Tosihba set fixed /replaced about 3 years ago.... It took me 9 MONTHS to get a working set.. read some of the details here, allot of details left out... by the time everything was said and done I probably had 100++ hours plus (or more!!!) "invested": /cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=474384#POST474384[/url]


Here's another idea, before calling them... ASK around your town on who is GOOD on repair, see if they can service JVC.... and then ask for that shop.

JVC finally told me to contact a local (10 miles) service. I made contact at 5pm on Friday but will have to wait until monday to set up an appointment. I yelled at the supervisor's supervisor on Thursday... To bad I had to resort to to that. Fingers crossed I can get a fix shortly.

RE: So here is my question.... Should I ask to get my set back, and have them put the light engine in at my house instead of there shop?

terminaldawn,

Once they get the set at their shop, they are NOT going to bring it back to your house so the light engine can be put in at your home, instead of in their shop.

From a business prespectve that wouldn't make ANY sense... UNLESS their shop was badly overcrowded.. and the parts for your set were NOT expected for several weeks (or months)

I know that they will not like to give me the set back from a business perspective. It wouldn't be profitable. But lying and deceiving people into believing that the repairs MUST be done in their shop would be profitable. That is what I have a problem with. I am saying to get my set back and have a different more honest shop do the repairs.

On a side note. I am very very disappointed with JVC. Great TV but horrible customer service. I have called over 13 times and have spent about 15 hours of my own time trying to get the repairs straightened out. I would have to go on the record and say that if you are lucky to get a working set then great however if you don't then you are screwed and the set isn't worth the money that you have paid for it. However I am sure that if any set from any manufacturer goes bad you are pretty much in the same boat. JVC should really be ashamed of their service, the reliability of this product. I can honestly say that this will be the last JVC product I will ever buy. Anyone looking to buy JVC TV, I would look somewhere else to see if there is another TV that has less problems.

J

meshuggah; didn't see anything on the 6600 result. Not very encourging either way.
release notes say tv is broke with x800xl & october driver release Huh?

Can't beleive no one here has hooked up their computer to this. :confused:

Finally took the plunge on a HD-52G886. Figured it was just a matter of time, so I might as well get it in time for Christmas.
A couple of logistical questions, that will determine how I pick it up:

- Does anyone know the box dimentions for the 52"? I might have to rent a truck or pay for delivery.

- Is there any harm in transporting it flat? I have heard you shouldn't, but also heard that's only to prevent anything from falling on it and damaging the screen. Anyone brought one home lying flat in the back of an SUV ?

Thanks!

When I had my 52" delivered, the box had a "shock" (ie dropped or roughly handled) device on the side of the box. I had it delivered by a special service (Manna) that included a 90 mile ride in the back of a pickup truck (enclosed bed). It was the only item being delivered. He also had an extensive unpacking checklist. Bottom line, flat on its back is NOT an option.

Has anyone with a xxG886 successfully hooked up and older game system (Nintendo 8-bit / SEGA Genesis)? I've got 2 different working Genesis systems and neither will work with my new 52G886. I'll get audio/video for about 1 second and then it cuts out.

Can't beleive no one here has hooked up their computer to this. :confused:

They have.. and as far as HDMI interfacing goes, it does not provide a true 720p 1:1 pixel mapping with these sets. Does that answer your question?

My attempts to send the JVC a 750p signal also failed to obtain a 1:1 mapping, but this is something that others might want to explore.

An nVidia 6x00 card using component dongle does yield a fairly good picture at least within the limits of the JVC 720p LCOS since these sets all exhibit too much digital noise along with some degree of ghosting present on vertical lines. There is still some scaling taking place; 720p to its nonstandard 750p resolution. The processor used on the Gx86 is also subpar, and the result from this can be seen as block pixelation during fast movement on a complex scene. Some mistake this for the low bitrates typical of cable or sat feeds now, but this is obviously not the case here since it also occurs on a PC display. It is just another example of how JVC rips off the consumer by building its next generation with cheaper components than they used on previous models.

The VGA input is just a joke, since it is limited to 1024 X 768 resolution.

IMO, the PC display obtained via HDMI -> DVI for even the cheapest 720p RPLCD will put the JVC to shame no matter how its hooked up. The DLP's do a pretty good job with PC display too, but if you are suseptable to RBE, the colors that can shoot out from a mouse cursor give this a whole new meaning. :)

I bought a JVC HD-52G886 about two weeks ago from PC-Richard in Northern, NJ. The picture is spectacular. Unfortunately, I finally got around to connecting a DVD player to it, an up converting Sony with an HDMI output, and all I get is a very bright green screen. When I connect my Cablevision cable box to the HDMI input, I get nothing (DVI to HDMI there), although I am told that the Scientific Atlanta HD4200 boxes are pretty bad in the way of their digital outputs.

Has anybody had this problem, or should I send this puppy back. I really hate to do it, the picture beats any DLP or LCD I have seen for sharpness, and the very bright picture is great for my room, which has a lot of windows, but I cannot accept a non-working digital input. Thanks.

I have a Z series that i purchased at the beginning of the year. This morning I went to turn it on and as the lamp cycles to warm up I can hear a fast paced ticking sound which lasts about 3 seconds, then stops. It does the ticking cycle 3 times, afterwards the set immediatly shuts down and the power and lamp lights start blinking together at a quick pace. I tried doing a search and didn't come up with much, so I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this? I read the manual and it suggested that the lamp door may not be closed, so I checked that and it didn't help. It also suggested that it may be some sort of malfunction. I'd just like to have a little knowledge of the problem before I have to turn to customer service. Can anybody give me some information on this? Thanks!

The December issue of The Perfect Vision (http://www.theperfectvision.com/) has a review of the JVC HD52786. "Big, Bright and Beautiful - JVC's Stunning New HDTV" They liked the "incredible" high light output, good grayscale cal. in TheaterPro mode from the factory, computer input, no burn in. They didn't like the high black levels, soft HD pictures, no direct access to the inputs, and their test unit was out of convergence.

This issue also contains an article entitled "Tested and Failed: Many Digital HDTVs Throw Away Up to Half of Available Broadcast Resolution." Because of poor deinterlacing, only 23 TVs out of 53 passed the tests. A JVC LCoS RP was among the TVs that passed.

it does not provide a true 720p 1:1 pixel mapping with these sets. Does that answer your question? Many/most sets don't from what I have read. The Mits I have now AFAIK, doesn't. It is set for 1920x1080i reduced to 1712x1022 via Powerstrips' Resolution Designer (to reduce the overscan). It fills the screen ok, it's readable (with larger fonts), but isn't as sharp as I would like it to be, but it's the best I have seen so far. The Sammy 1080 isn't available in my market area (before you mention that model).since these sets all exhibit too much digital noise along with some degree of ghosting present on vertical lines. That is through the HDMI input or the VGA, or both?There is still some scaling taking place; 720p to its nonstandard 750p resolution. Where did this "750p" figure come from??The VGA input is just a joke, since it is limited to 1024 X 768 resolution. If you use the 'stretch' mode and changed your PC resolution to a 'wider' number, say 1600, would that work to compensate for the stretch mode (if you know what I mean)?

Many/most sets don't from what I have read. The Mits I have now AFAIK, doesn't. It is set for 1920x1080i reduced to 1712x1022 via Powerstrips' Resolution Designer (to reduce the overscan).

No, most sets can acheive a 1:1 "native" 720p mapping initially whereas the x86 cannot, so any rescaling to remove overscan does not work correctly either. The display on the x86 that results from this is atrocious; the text exhibits color artifacts, etc..

That is through the HDMI input or the VGA, or both?

Those effects are due to the limitations of the set itself, and therefore they are present in any image displayed by the set. You may not want to even hook a PC up to these sets, as this reveals its shortcomings quite well, and then you can more easily spot them in other display modes. This can reduce the overall enjoyment that some experience from these sets. The horizontal ghosting is primarily responsible for the "softer" display. You can easily see it in all its glory if you watch the poker challenge on INHD, simply look at the cards on the table against the green surface and you can see the ghosting which appears as a halo offset from the edge of the card.
Digital noise is most prominent in red or violet shades. This is quite evident when you observe a standard color bar reference pattern. Free software such as that offered by IDK Technologies (available here (http://www.idk-tech.com/products/techpcvg.html)), works quite well for evaluations such as this.

Where did this "750p" figure come from??
Anyone can verify this for themselves quite simply by entering the service mode.

If you use the 'stretch' mode and changed your PC resolution to a 'wider' number, say 1600, would that work to compensate for the stretch mode (if you know what I mean)?
ANY resolution other than those supported over the sets VGA port (800X600 or 1024X768) will result in a blank screen with an error window titled "Incompatible Signal", so what you are saying is quite impossible. I guess you could always stretch the unaltered 4:3 display using the sets picture strech modes, but that is not what one would consider to be even close to acceptable for a PC display. It would also be silly, since you can obtain fairly good display quality with a component dongle. My definition of "fairly good" is likely to appear as quite acceptable by most, and component interfacing is simply as close to a 1:1 mapping that you will obtain with these sets from a PC signal.

The "primary" use of my G786 is as a PC display. I do all my work on it, which includes programming, web browsing, etc. : I am typing this on it.
I have had a chance to evaluate three different g786's in my home for at least two weeks, so any isolated issues attributed to defects of a specific set are unlikely.

Just to digress a bit, how about a vote here on this poll;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6658577#post6658577

Mechanic; you have a PM.

I only looked at the desktop for a monent of the model in the store at 1024x768. It looked ok, but I didn't really get into it since it wasn't something I would consider acceptable on a 52" set, watching a 40" 4x3 image.

Anyone else chime in here?

This other issue of adding channels to the ATSC/QAM tuner AFTER a scan, I'm syill looking for if it can be done. With my limited digital tuner' experiance I found that it will work IF you punch in say, 43-1 instead of just 43 if that channel isn't in the memory of this Mits that I have now. No mention of that in the instructiob book or suport of course. I'm wondering if the same is true here.

Since the set only has one ATSC/QAM tuner, I would connect (through a external switch) both my OTA antenna and cable (no STB). Would this work. The instruction manual is useless here.

Most of the local HD channels are broadcast in the clear over your existing cable, so I would likely not even bother with an OTA antenna. Just split the cable into the ATSC and NTSC inputs. A better approach would be to use a cable card, which would enable you to view the digital channels (135+) as well as any premium channels and likely even the HD channels typically included with an HD STB like INHD, TNTHD, etc.

Myself, I would certainly get an HD STB if you choose not to go the cable card route. IMO, the onscreen channel guide is a must have with these sets, and the cable card will not include this feature.
I really doubt that JVC will ever include something like the excellent on-screen TV Guide of the Toshiba DLP's, that is really one heck of a feature and these sets are less expensive than the JVC. The Toshiba's offer excellent build quality and even include a "real" remote rather than "plastic toy" grade garbage. If only I did not see rainbows. :confused:

JVC's ATSC tuner appears as a tacked on afterthought. It is the only set of the different examples I have examined (which include both Toshiba and Panasonic), where you have to select the tuner mode from the remote just to access a digital channel. All others incorporate this seemlessly.
Thats given that your ATSC tuner will even work beyond a few months, as there is an ongoing issue with red drive failure (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=46526) on the x86 ATSC display. This issue seems to appear completely out of the blue and for no apparent reason, so no x86 owner is immune to it. Of the three JVC Gx86 sets that I recieved, two developed this issue within a three week time period. I am sure this is just another fine example of the total lack of JVC quality control along with their attempts to subsitute cheaper components for their latest offerings.

The funny thing is that the BB person who examined the returned sets could not reproduce the issue: The x86 defaults to the NTSC tuner upon first startup and he did not even know that you had to switch to ATSC mode from the remote on these sets in order to access the digital tuner. It always makes for a real nice day when you are called a liar by Best Buys AV department manager. :mad:
When I inquired as to how JVC had responded regarding the issue with the sets, he informed me that they had not returned them to JVC. Instead they simply put these sets with a reported defect back on the sales floor as an open box item. Probably best not to buy an open box 52G786 from the Best Buy in Midvale, Utah for awhile..

I'm gonna pull the trigger in less than a week and i wanted some pros and cons on these sets. my preference is in this order:

1 Sony kdfe50a10

2 JVC hd52g786

3 Samsung hlr 5067w

Any info would be helpful, i've been researching since september, and i just wanted the opinions of some owners of each set. Thanx in advance.

BTW: these forums are excellent!

Find a friend with a truck.. You'd be a fool to lay the set down. You're just ASKING for trouble if you lay it down to transport.


Thanks to all who responded to save me from my own stupidity. Patience prevailed and I made other arrangements. TV and stand are safely home now.

After assembling the RK-CILAM6B stand, which is gorgeous BTW, I did some light tweaking and then watched some DVDs (over component).

Image looks really clean and smooth. Can't wait to hook up some HD material.

- Played with the convergence in the service menu.
- No CA to speak of.
- Did the focus adjustment, which I believe helped a bit. Before, I could barely see the pixel outlines even with my nose up to the screen. Now I can see an extremely small but distinct outline.

I'll report more impressions once I've run through DVE or Avia.

I'm still trying to decide on a good DVD player. STB will take the HDMI port, so I don't know if I should bother getting an upscaling DVDP or not. Any thoughts?

yeah i layed my 56" on its front in the back of my sisters expedition, like 3 months ago, its worked flawlessly since i bought it, no problems at all....

Putting it on its front or back for a couple minute drive will not hurt it, think about the entire shipping process of it...

Who knows what other people are doing, the crates they are shipped in on cargo boats get josseled when setting on trucks, the workers unloading them from the crates dont care about the product their job is to move as much as they can as fast as they can, the long truck ride from some port to the warehouse then to its final desination at a store, if any damage is done to ure tv, it is done in the shipping process, i highly doubt ure small trip to ure house will effect much of anything at all...

Oh dont forget about the guys at bestbuy or where ever, i was there one day looking at a tivo unit, and they were on the other side of the isle stocking the top shelf, low and behold, i 15lbs box fell off the shelf and i dodged it, landed on my foot instead, they appologized and i picked the unit up, gave it to them and they put it right back on the shelf when i left....they dont care...

Also if u notice when they bring ure tv out on a dolly they usually have it lying on its end leaned back on the dolly....better be careful...cause nothing is gonna happen...


As for a dvd player, i got a samsung HD-950 and did the remote trick to allow playback of pal material and component out-uprez, all is well, granted all up-rezzing dvd players leave a lil bit of resolution to be desired, but it does a fine job at what its meant to do...

BALDheadedGRL,

Very good points re: handling upto this point. I guess I went the better safe than sorry route.

I have a friend with a Samsung 850 up-converting player, maybe I'll borrow it and see how it looks.

When I had my 52" delivered, the box had a "shock" (ie dropped or roughly handled) device on the side of the box. I had it delivered by a special service (Manna) that included a 90 mile ride in the back of a pickup truck (enclosed bed). It was the only item being delivered. He also had an extensive unpacking checklist. Bottom line, flat on its back is NOT an option.


Nonsense! I picked up my 52g886 and laid it on its back in a minivan and drove for 40 minutes home. I've had it for almost 2 months and the friggin' thing is FLAWLESS. If it's not safe to do, they would clearly state that on the box, which it doesn't. All that's noted on the box is where to put the forklift. As long as you're not going off-roading with it, it should be fine.

I bought a JVC HD-52G886 about two weeks ago from PC-Richard in Northern, NJ. The picture is spectacular. Unfortunately, I finally got around to connecting a DVD player to it, an up converting Sony with an HDMI output, and all I get is a very bright green screen. When I connect my Cablevision cable box to the HDMI input, I get nothing (DVI to HDMI there), although I am told that the Scientific Atlanta HD4200 boxes are pretty bad in the way of their digital outputs.

Has anybody had this problem, or should I send this puppy back. I really hate to do it, the picture beats any DLP or LCD I have seen for sharpness, and the very bright picture is great for my room, which has a lot of windows, but I cannot accept a non-working digital input. Thanks.


You have two options.. call JVC and arrange a service call..... OR try "Reseting" the HDMI port yourself.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154

Last part on POST #26 by WeAreNotAlone69

I bought a JVC HD-52G886 about two weeks ago from PC-Richard in Northern, NJ. The picture is spectacular. Unfortunately, I finally got around to connecting a DVD player to it, an up converting Sony with an HDMI output, and all I get is a very bright green screen. When I connect my Cablevision cable box to the HDMI input, I get nothing (DVI to HDMI there), although I am told that the Scientific Atlanta HD4200 boxes are pretty bad in the way of their digital outputs.

Has anybody had this problem, or should I send this puppy back. I really hate to do it, the picture beats any DLP or LCD I have seen for sharpness, and the very bright picture is great for my room, which has a lot of windows, but I cannot accept a non-working digital input. Thanks.


You have two options.. call JVC and arrange a service call..... OR try "Reseting" the HDMI port yourself.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154

Last part of POST #26 by WeAreNotAlone69

Here is the procedure to reset it, using the remote control SHIPPED with the Set. (NO "Service Remote" needed -ya!).

Turn the TV on, and enter the Service Menu. Select 2 for Self Check. Then turn the TV off, and after the fan turns off, unplug the power cord. Reconnect the power cord, turn the TV on, and the HDMI port is reenabled.
I tried the procedure and it worked fine. I left the power cord disconnected for 30 sec before reconnecting.

Nonsense! I picked up my 52g886 and laid it on its back in a minivan and drove for 40 minutes home. I've had it for almost 2 months and the friggin' thing is FLAWLESS. If it's not safe to do, they would clearly state that on the box, which it doesn't. All that's noted on the box is where to put the forklift. As long as you're not going off-roading with it, it should be fine.

RE: Transporting in any other postion than straight-up.

Non-sense?

While I agree with you that IF you are very careful you minimize the chance of damage.

Doing what you suggest is like poking a hole in a condom.. You might be "lucky", then again not. While laying on it's back is preferable to laying on it's front the best way to transport is standing straight up.

So far as it being not "safe" to lay the tv down during transport.. that there should be writing / warnings on the box, etc... Anybody with common sense transports standing UP if at all possible.


PS: Glad to hear it worked out for you, I've been moving stuff for about 30+ years and have broken very little if anything, so take any advice with that in mind.

Most of the local HD channels are broadcast in the clear over your existing cable, so I would likely not even bother with an OTA antenna Unlike 99% of the country, we have the advantage (among others) of having another country in out backyard; Canada. Many more to choose from that will never be on cable.the onscreen channel guide is a must have with these sets Why? Titan TV isn't good enough? Never had it before. excellent on-screen TV Guide of the Toshiba DLP's Why is Toshibas' VD Guide any better than any other sets' version? :confused: It is the only set of the different examples I have examined (which include both Toshiba and Panasonic), where you have to select the tuner mode from the remote just to access a digital channel. As in selecting air vs cable, or something else?Thats given that your ATSC tuner will even work beyond a few months, as there is an ongoing issue with red drive failure on the x86 ATSC display. What is the connection between the two? The x86 defaults to the NTSC tuner upon first startup and he did not even know that you had to switch to ATSC mode from the remote on these sets in order to access the digital tuner. Don't/can't you punch in say 43-1 (assuming that OTA channel is active) and the set will 'see' the signal? That goes along with the previous question regarding the tuner.

Mechanic; if I didn't know better, one would think JVC isn't at the top of your list. ;) Your frustration is equaled by mine and this MIts 1080p. :(

What does Canada have to do with the RF attachment suggestions I made, pretty sure NY has cable? :confused:

The JVC x86 remote does not allow direct input selection, and the tedious input switching thru the menu or even remote macros is so slow that Titan is seldom a convienent option. If you have not had the chance to check out Toshiba's fancy TV Guide On Screen Interactive Program Guide, it IS quite impressive. It is similar to a STB channel menu, but much more graphical, and has a small real time preview in the upper corner. The entire JVC user interface is a joke compared to Toshibs's, or even Panasonics for that matter.

You have to switch between NTSC and ATSC tuner from the JVC remote; they are not combined seamlessly like the "real" HDTV's. :eek:
The JVC Gx86 remote simply sucks; obtaining a decent learning remote (~$200) is mandatory, and therefore the additional cost involved should be added on to any prospective purchase price. Obviously the JVC remote control design team (see: migrant farm workers), were unaware that making nearly all the remotes buttons the same exact small size could result in an unusable piece of trash. Luckily, the buttons on the remote ARE illuminated: a single press of the illumination button will allow you to easily see the cryptic symbols imprinted on the button which provide absolutely no indication of the buttons actual function. Rumor has it that if you happen to be smoking crack while using the JVC remote control, the meaning behind these cryptic symbols will instantly become obvious.
Note : Some buttons (favorites, PIP, power, etc..) do not display a symbol when illuminated. These "mystery buttons" should simply be ignored when using the set in areas with insufficient lighting such as the typical viewing environment.

I am a JVC Gx86 owner, and I have also had the opportunity to examine several sets in my home from other manufacturers. I do not come here to give kudos and pats on the back so that current and prospective buyers can have a warm fuzzy about their own purchasing decisions. I know alot of folks that read this forum are here for exactly that reason, as most have already pretty much made up their mind, but seem to need some hold my hand kind of reassurance. :rolleyes:
I try to provide an unbiased opinion, which I hope will be of "actual" value to those who intend to spend over $2k on an HDTV. I think that nearly all RP HDTV's have some severe shortcommings, and most have unacceptable QC issues to boot. Pretty sad when you consider the price for these things.

The most important conclusion I have made thus far is that the stock for any company making rear projection HDTV bulbs is likely to be a real good investment. :p

What does Canada have to do with the RF attachment suggestions I made, pretty sure NY has cable? Cable carries very few Canadian stations! They aren't required to.You have to switch between NTSC and ATSC tuner from the JVC remote Just as one did with older analog sets choose air or cable frequency assignments. If so that shouldn't be a problem nor a big deal. I'm sure there are better ways, but I could live with that since I had to the past 20+ years. Everything doesn't have to be automatic. ;)

As far as the not that great remote, it's really a non issue since most people use universal remotes that usually do a as good or better job. For those few situations where you need the original remote, it's there in a nearby drawer.

I have the AllForOne 9910RF remote and I'm very pleased with it. Between cost $28), RF ability, and now company support (completely amazing) :eek: , this is a great buy. I know those $100+ Harmony remotes are popular, but I can'tr see spending that much when this does almost as much even though it might require a few more button pushes. The ability to upgrade the remote via the telephone and now the ability to send in a remote to their California R&D center to learn a un-reconized remote is a really great benefit.

IOW's, I think you are making a big deal over something that is easily corrected. At least the set responds to the remote signals all the time, the analog stereo channels are in stereo and a 4x3 image is 4x3, not 3x3! :mad:

In 1991 when I received my 46" Hitachi RPTV it was $2300 from a sticker price of around $2600 (or so). What these sets are selling for now and what you get is a bargin. Just think, no extar charge for the glitches............

You do not quite get the point here. It is not that one can easily bypass the fact that the remote is substandard : JFTR, the remotes included with all other sets I have examined were constructed of high quality materials, with well thought out buttons. They were all a pleasure to use.
The plastic JVC remote resembles something included with a cheap toy. While the remote has an illumination feature, it DOES NOT illuminate the remote in a manner similar to other remotes; just the buttons: This makes the illumination feature completely useless. It is obvious they included illumination just so they could say that "they too" offer this feature. Rather the feature worked in a way actually useful to the user was simply not important to them. If you really think that this cut corner deceptive attitude they have taken towards something external that is quite apparent to the consumer does not translate directly into the engineering of the set as a whole, then you are quite naive.
I am here presenting honest evaluations and observations about a product, and you seem to go out of your way to discount this and try to justify the overall substandard quality of the JVC sets. If you are really simply a consumer looking to buy a JVC set as you indicate, why would you do this? You have over 3000 posts and you have been a member here for over two years. Your posts include one (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154) that presents the internal elements of the Gx86 DILA sets in a scope that is simply not typical of an average consumer, or even an owner for that matter. Although I myself appreciate this type of information, some explanation might be in order.

JVC is one of the only HDTV vendors that I know of that has had to completely recall an entire model of its DILA offerings due to design defects. The low operational life of the bulb is a well documented issue which dates to the very first model they produced. All reports indicate that the bulb used in these new sets is the same exact bulb they used in this original model line.
IOW, is seems that they made absolutely no attempt to rectify an ongoing issue, even with an entirely new and so called improved model offering.

You do not quite get the point here. It is not that one can easily bypass the fact that the remote is substandard : JFTR, the remotes included with all other sets I have examined were constructed of high quality materials, with well thought out buttons. They were all a pleasure to use.
The plastic JVC remote resembles something included with a cheap toy. While the remote has an illumination feature, it DOES NOT illuminate the remote in a manner similar to other remotes; just the buttons: This makes the illumination feature completely useless. It is obvious they included illumination just so they could say that "they too" offer this feature. Rather the feature worked in a way actually useful to the user was simply not important to them. If you really think that this cut corner deceptive attitude they have taken towards something external that is quite apparent to the consumer does not translate directly into the engineering of the set as a whole, then you are quite naive.
I am here presenting honest evaluations and observations about a product, and you seem to go out of your way to discount this and try to justify the overall substandard quality of the JVC sets. If you are really simply a consumer looking to buy a JVC set as you indicate, why would you do this? You have over 3000 posts and you have been a member here for over two years. Your posts include one (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154) that presents the internal elements of the Gx86 DILA sets in a scope that is simply not typical of an average consumer, or even an owner for that matter. Although I myself appreciate this type of information, some explanation might be in order.

JVC is one of the only HDTV vendors that I know of that has had to completely recall an entire model of its DILA offerings due to design defects. The low operational life of the bulb is a well documented issue which dates to the very first model they produced. All reports indicate that the bulb used in these new sets is the same exact bulb they used in this original model line.
IOW, is seems that they made absolutely no attempt to rectify an ongoing issue, even with an entirely new and so called improved model offering.

Recall?

Are you talking about the part that installed in the ballast to reduce a potenial fire hazard?

If so I'd rather have amfg recall the whole batch at the retailer, instead of pushing them out the door on unsuspecting customers.

On the low lamp life, it is unconfirmed if the set OR the lamp is at fault. It could have be, or be a bad run of lamps, or a poor lamp design (Toshiba TS-110UU, or TS-110UUaa)

Hey on the Z remote, at least it lights up.... Look at the G series, the sets that are "black" come with a grey remote, with little buttons that don't light up (AFAIK)

I'm using a multi-function remote, so it's sort of a mute point for me, but I think the G series remote is cheap to the extreme. So afar as cheap materials, I'll have to pull some out and look at them, but I think the remotes ARE made to withstand being dropped. The finsh while "plastic" looking is not the "trendy" silver looking remotes that are shipped with other sets that get scratched up the first time they are dropped.

My feeling towards a remote if anything should be the mfg should put extra time and money into shipping a really GOOD design with the set.. making the remote bulletproof, strudy, and the menus of the TV fast and easy to use.

To most people if they have a really nice remote make a big difference in consumer perception of the product. It's sort of like PC's.. Most people think of the PC as the "monitor"... keyboard, mouse..... A little extra money spent in those areas makes a big differance.... (IMO)

Hey I'm looking at a remote for SONY KDF60X-S95... Don't have batteries in it the check for sure, but only the buttons light up... the item descriptions do not it appears.

The sad fact is that unless the product stands a good chance of injury or death to the customer, there will be no recall. If the defect happens to effect the operation or picture quality of the set, it is not considered severe enough for a recall, and upon expiration of the warrantee it is in the customers hands...too bad.

The reason for the premature bulb failures is not really relevant, the fact that they knew of the bulb failures with the Z series, and there are now numerous reports of bulb failures at under 1000 hrs with the newer G series, is a good indication that absolutely nothing was done to rectify the issue. Since both the Z and G series use the same bulb, if anything was done to address the issue such as a ballast redesign (which I doubt), it would seem that it was ineffective. I am sure that someone like yourself who has experienced a bulb failure within 700 hrs (http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/2/176314.html) can understand that recommending a set to a prospective customer with no mention of this would be wrong.

The G786 remote that I have does light up, it uses an electro luminesent technology that presents a rather dim blueish light but only on the buttons themselves. The light intensity is simply insufficient to detect button labels in a darkened room. The symbols included on "most" of the buttons can be seen of course, but they present little value as far as indicating the buttons function.
As a comparison example, consider the Toshiba remote. The Toshiba backlit remote has both the buttons AND the button labels illuminated. No need for cryptic little symbols here, and it performs in a darkened room just as you would expect from a remote that has been advertised as being illuminated.

From the information I have obtained, it seems that the Z series remote is actually superior to that included with the newer G series since it has the abilty to select inputs directly. This issue has been mentioned before and I am sure that JVC was aware of it since some reports indicate that the remote included with the new 1080p sets is said to once again have this direct input selection feature.
The issue I have encountered is that direct HDMI input selection is still not available from a learning / programmable remote. All other inputs are of course. IOW, if there is a discrete code for direct selection of the HDMI input, it is not available for any of the programmable remotes I have. If direct selection of the HDMI input has been added to the new 1080p remotes, then there should be a remote code available now that could also work for the Gx86 so this should be recified soon I would hope.

My G series remote has a backlight but the user has to know which buttons to use in some instances. For me, not a big deal as I value the TV for it's PQ (I like it) and really couldn't care about the remote, so long as it functions. If you want a fancy remote, this will definitely not be the set for you.

If you have not had the chance to check out Toshiba's fancy TV Guide On Screen Interactive Program Guide, it IS quite impressive. It is similar to a STB channel menu, but much more graphical, and has a small real time preview in the upper corner. The entire JVC user interface is a joke compared to Toshibs's, or even Panasonics for that matter.

I owned the Toshiba 62HMX94 DLP with the fancy TV Guide menu you describe. That love affair with the TV Guide will quickly wear off when you discover how troublesome it is. Some days you have it, others you don't. And when you don't, guess what, your TV goes bonkers. I returned my toshiba for a JVC HD-ILA 61Z786 and I'm quite happy of getting rid of that TV Guide software. Keep in mind that TV Guide is coming out with new digital data software in 2006 that is NOT backwards compatible with any existing hardware with the tv guide analog decoding chipset to solve issues with HD sets. Supposely, HD sets will be out in 2006 with the new tv guide digital decoding chipset (they should have done this with the introduction of HDTV's to get it right the first time around). Their current software is transmitted in analog, therefore, you need to have PBS to get the software download or a cable company that has a contract with TV Guide to re-transmit the analog data (reference the current issue of Soung & Vision Magazine).


You have to switch between NTSC and ATSC tuner from the JVC remote; they are not combined seamlessly like the "real" HDTV's.

I use a cablecard in my 61Z786 and channel tuning between NTSC & Cable QAM is seamless & combined as in REAL HDTV. When I don't use the cablecard my channel tuning is seamless. So I don't know what you are referring to. Since I don't do any NTSC & ATSC switching when changing channels without the cablecard.

You do not quite get the point here. It is not that one can easily bypass the fact that the remote is substandard Yes I do, it's just a friggin' remote. Ok, so it's cheap looking. It's also silver. That in itself makes it look cheap. Don't use it. Put it in the drawer.I am here presenting honest evaluations and observations about a product, and you seem to go out of your way to discount this and try to justify the overall substandard quality of the JVC sets. That's fine, but you put too much value on the remote. A factor in a decesion, yes, but I can't imagine any kind of deal breaker. That's almost as bad as making a stink over the wheel covers on your new vehicle. :rolleyes: JVC is one of the only HDTV vendors that I know of that has had to completely recall an entire model of its DILA offerings due to design defects. As was said, it was a minor ballast wireing issue easily corrected. Ever hear of auto recalls regarding wireing issues and fires? Doesn't mean the whole company produces faulty products. it seems that the Z series remote is actually superior to that included with the newer G series since it has the abilty to select inputs directly. Then go to a parts dealer and buy one of those.

Tell you what, I'll trade my cropped analog 4x3 image, excessive power consumption, slow/spotty responding remote (the TV itself), tuner that adds channels overnight that I have to delete the next day, mono analog stereo stations Mits for your set with the remote. ;)

That love affair with the TV Guide will quickly wear off when you discover how troublesome it is. That's why I never enabled it. They couldn't get their magazine right, how could they be any better electronically?I use a cablecard in my 61Z786 and channel tuning between NTSC, ATSC, & Cable QAM is seamless If you are just on cable, then you are only tuning between NTSC and QAM. ATSC is OTA. Different frequencies and more important different transmission standard.

Apparently many/most haven't voted yet;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6679039#post6679039

That's why I never enabled it. They couldn't get their magazine right, how could they be any better electronically? If you are just on cable, then you are only tuning between NTSC and QAM. ATSC is OTA. Different frequencies and more important different transmission standard.

My bad. I corrected the post. I just get annoyed how everyone generalizes their problems to include my set. Heck, I have a Harmony 880 remote which is fantastic with this set!

Do you have a poll on the JVC 720p???

Not my poll.

Anyone using the JVC sets for gaming? What has been your experience. I have one of the 1080P models on preorder, is there anything I should be aware of as far as gaming is concerned?

Thanks

Jamy

I'm only on page 56 of this thread (was hoping to be further along, but hey)... but I had to post my newest aquisition - a 52G886. I picked it up open box from The Good Guys liquidation sale here in SoCal - a pretty darned good deal, I think.

First impressions: This thing is awesome. I am mightily impressed by its color, blacklevels, and picture when displaying HD sources. When I first plugged it in, I have to admit it looked very pixelated and crappy, but after a few minor adjustments in the consumer menu, the TV looked fantastic. If you look at this TV in a store, I highly suggest picking up the remote and fiddling (particularly bringing the detail down, ouch). My pics here can attest to how awesome this set can look. I haven't really done much of the adjustment, either. That will come with DVE later tonight.

and btw, I hear NO fan noise - and I'm pretty sensitive to that kinda thing.

My Issues:

1) The picture in SD (and in some HD cases) looks like what I would call "marching ants" around edges of images. Is this normal? Is this called macroblocking? It looks like compression artifacts all over the screen - makes text unreadable and the picture just look munchy. Could that be my signal?

2) After it got warmed up, the screen went green periodically, as if only the green drive was firing and the others had turned off. I did have it in the service menu at the time, and can't remember which code I had it on (one of the drive settings) - Could this be why? Or does it sound like something is wrong?

3) I have a very minor CA issue (which I'm sure I can adjust), and a slightly red lower lefthand corner, but those are unnoticable when there's a pic on the screen. I'll see if these

But as you can see from the pic, it's pretty awesome.

Thank you all for educating me far more than I was on Sunday after I had bought this set - and reassuring me that I made a wise choice.

"marching ants" around edges of images Dot crawl or mosquito noise. the screen went green periodically, as if only the green drive was firing and the others had turned off. I did have it in the service menu at the time, and can't remember which code I had it on (one of the drive settings) - Could this be why? Or does it sound like something is wrong? Entering the SM not knowing what you are doing or not writing down the original settings might be what is wrong.I have a very minor CA issue (which I'm sure I can adjust) Can't be adjusted.

I have an HD-56G886, purchased about two months ago. Our Cable provider is Cox and they claim to broadcast the network HD channels so they can be picked up with a QAM tuner. The channels are 107-1, 107-2, 108-1, and 108-2. I have not been able to successfully receive these channels with this TV Set. I have run the tuner setup with "digital cable" chosen under the digital input and the coax hooked up with the splitter, just as indicated in the user manual. It picks up a number of music channels, but no networks. Anyone know what I am doing wrong here ?

I have successfully used an OTA antenna by unhooking the coax into the ATSC input on the back of the set, hooking up the antenna cable, and re-running tuner setup with "ATSC" selected under the digital input. I picked up everything but FOX. Since I really want FOX, I am trying the Cable/QAM route.

Videobruce: did anyone answer your question about successfully using a switch to go back and forth between QAM and OTA ?

Thanks to all here for a very useful and informative forum.

Entering the SM not knowing what you are doing or not writing down the original settings might be what is wrong.

I know what I'm doing, and dont neccesarily expect the SM to flash the screen green. After a bit more time with the set, the green flashing is definitely abnormal and occurs after it's been on for about 30 minutes. It lasts for only a few seconds then disappears, but flashes in varying intensity (from green tinted, to monochromatic green with white shapes). Does anyone know what could be causing this?

I'm going to give JVC a call today.

Kid Red, since you've taken your unit apart, would you say the Lamp Cooling Fan (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=45425) is a standard 80mm computer fan? If that's the case, those with extreme fan noise could replace this part with a quieter, higher throughput computer fan like a Panaflo. It all depends on if it'll fit, though. :)

im sold anybody played the 360 on one of this

I have the 360 hooked up to my 61Z786 and it is stunning. I have no complaints what so ever. One word of caution though, if the fan noise on the TV bothers you be prepared for even a louder fan in the 360.

If that's the case, those with extreme fan noise could replace this part with a quieter, higher throughput computer fan like a Panaflo. It all depends on if it'll fit, though. :)

I'd be very careful about making so many assumptions. Do you know if those JVC internal fans operate at 12V dc?

I know at least one of those fans operates at multiple speeds (fast, and wind tunnel).

Not having the right cooling could shorten your bulb life considerably.

There are many more things to consider than just size...voiding your warranty being one! :)

zabo; have you tried to manually enter the channel by pressing 1-0-7-sub-1?Videobruce: did anyone answer your question about successfully using a switch to go back and forth between QAM and OTA ? No. That could be answered just by what you are doing. Run a scan on the cable channels, swap leads, direct input a OTA channel and see if it recognizes it. I'm not clear on just how this set switches the tuner mode from ATSC to QAM. With NTSC tuners, usually there is a setting to choose between air and cable. With digital thrown in to thje mix, it's not just different frequencies above channel 13, it's a different transmission format so it gets more complicated. :(

It never fails to amaze me the number that AREN'T using any of these built in tuners on these HD ready sets bypassing it with a STB instead of using the CC. :(

Hello,

I finally got my JVC 61z886 repaired after over 20 phone calls 3 failed deliveries and 20 hours of my own time. The shop had my set for 2 weeks and replaced the Light Engine.
My set now appears to be less smooth, clear and focused, seems very pixilated also. My wife even noticed this too, so you know it’s not just my imagination. I also went through to try to tweak it again, and could not get it back to the way it was.

Someone had mentioned (I believe it was WeAreNotAlone69) that they usually fail to do all the steps required when replacing the light engine.

My question is that after replacing the light engine, if not done properly, would this cause a degradation of overall picture quality? Or maybe there is something else going on?

My plan is to have another shop come out and look at it ON-SITE this time but I want to make sure he does all the necessary checks/steps. Can someone please post the steps that should be checked, or let me know where I can get a copy of the service manual?

Thanks for all the great posts!

Take care,

Jesse

Check for;
Focus, especially in the corners.
Purity & CA.

All are optical items, anything else is electronic. There is no need not to do it in the home. Sounds as they never did it before and didn't know what to do. You can cover alot up if no one sees you. :(

As I have said before, it pays to know BEFORE hand just WHO is comming out to your house to service the unit. EW or not.

It never fails to amaze me the number that AREN'T using any of these built in tuners on these HD ready sets bypassing it with a STB instead of using the CC. :(
Who wants to watch HD in realtime? I've been timeshifting HD since Summer 2001. I have no desire to spend 60 minutes watching a show with commercials when I can watch it in 42 minutes without commercials.

Still waiting for the TV to be delivered but I have another question. I just got IO digital cable installed with an sa-4200 stb. This box has DVI and component outputs. If I just connect from the cable out on the STB to the tuner input on the TV will the ATSC tunner pick up the HD signals? Or should I use an DVI->HDMI cable to connect it to the TV? Just trying to get the best quality and figure out what inputs I'll have left for DVD, etc

Any and all suggestions would be very helpful to me.

Thanks

i have the 52g886.anybody know why my digital channels went all green?if i use the hdmi cable from the cable box there fine.the minute i hook up the cable directly to the tv everything is green switch to anolge its ok.

It seems to be a very common defect with these sets. It occurs "out of the blue" so many are not even aware that is has happened (i.e. they use a STB rather than the sets ATSC tuner). I have experienced this happening with two Gx86 sets out of the three I tried out. In all these cases, the malfunction occured within three weeks of operation, but the sets were fine initially.
I returned the defective sets so there is not much to report about a fix. I did ask one poster who had encountered this malfunction to report back what JVC's rectification entails, as he mentioned he would seek a service repair. Too much to ask there I guess.

well i guess its back to the store for a new one.i called jvc they couldnt help me

I would seriously consider switching to a different manufacturer, have you considered DLP. If you are not suseptable to the rainbow effect, I would not even bother with a JVC LCOS. The green ATSC screen is a just one example of the plethora of issues that many have encountered with these sets.

im getting worn out trying to get a tv that works. iv been threw 6 different hitachis before i went with the jvc

I can certainly understand that, I tried 8 different rear projection sets from various manufacturers which included examples of LCD, DLP, and LCOS. It seems that the public has been mislead into thinking that after spending over $2k for a microchip based RP HDTV, they should expect it to work as intended for a least a few years.
If you have ever seen a real HD display from a high end plasma or a calibrated 9" gun RPCRT, it makes you wonder why the manufacturers can even claim that the microchip based sets they sell are HDTV's.

So are you saying we all got ripped off? I have a 4 year MACK warranty on my TV, I am just wondering if by the end of that 4 years I can somehow do an upgrade to a newer set with the warranty?

Still waiting for the TV to be delivered but I have another question. I just got IO digital cable installed with an sa-4200 stb. This box has DVI and component outputs. If I just connect from the cable out on the STB to the tuner input on the TV will the ATSC tunner pick up the HD signals? Or should I use an DVI->HDMI cable to connect it to the TV? Just trying to get the best quality and figure out what inputs I'll have left for DVD, etc

Any and all suggestions would be very helpful to me.

Thanks

Run either the component or a dvi/hdmi cable to TV. I'm not familiar with the box but assuming it's high def. If posible, set STB signal to pass through the native resolution. I have better pic using the TV's scaler than my previous STB that made me choose between 720p and 1080i. YMMV

So are you saying we all got ripped off?
Perhaps, if being mislead by hype and misrepresentation means the same to you as being ripped off. I am also sure that some folks are quite happy with what they were dealt. Then again, there was a reason why the Ford Pinto had great success in the market initially. There were many happy Pinto owners until they found out that their nice car blew up if you even looked at it wrong. :)

I have a 4 year MACK warranty on my TV, I am just wondering if by the end of that 4 years I can somehow do an upgrade to a newer set with the warranty? Your kidding, right??

Perhaps, if being mislead by hype and misrepresentation means the same to you as being ripped off. I am also sure that some folks are quite happy with what they were dealt. Then again, there was a reason why the Ford Pinto had great success in the market initially. There were many happy Pinto owners until they found out that their nice car blew up if you even looked at it wrong. :)

Your kidding, right??

No, not kidding. Its not fair if I am sold an inferior product, especially for how much we have paid for it. I guess, its our own fault for buying however, when they are misrepresenting the product, and banking on sucker consumers to buy it and live with defects, that is just wrong. You can be sure I will do everything in my power to get a replacement set if I continue to have problems. If everything is problem free the next 4 years, I will be happy, I will feel I got my moneys worth. But, then again, I have already spent over 20 hours of my time, had to take off 1.5 days off of work, and STILL the set is not working right, so I will have to take more days off for repair work.

I am not sure what problems people have with Plasmas, never really looked into it because I couldnt afford it, however I wish I would have just saved my money for one, or just got a used 35" CRT and waited.

56G Remote Control
As many of you know, this year's remotes (RM-C14G) lack the direct input buttons that last year's (RM-C15G) had. I wish to purchase last year's remote (cost over 50 bucks) for direct input. Have any of you done so, and verified that last year's remote (and direct input) will in fact work for the current model?
I have a universal learning remote but it cannot learn the direct input because this year's "inferior" remote lacks this feature.
Thanks.
esteps

I have an HD-56G886, purchased about two months ago. Our Cable provider is Cox and they claim to broadcast the network HD channels so they can be picked up with a QAM tuner. The channels are 107-1, 107-2, 108-1, and 108-2. I have not been able to successfully receive these channels with this TV Set. I have run the tuner setup with "digital cable" chosen under the digital input and the coax hooked up with the splitter, just as indicated in the user manual. It picks up a number of music channels, but no networks. Anyone know what I am doing wrong here ?

I have successfully used an OTA antenna by unhooking the coax into the ATSC input on the back of the set, hooking up the antenna cable, and re-running tuner setup with "ATSC" selected under the digital input. I picked up everything but FOX. Since I really want FOX, I am trying the Cable/QAM route.

Videobruce: did anyone answer your question about successfully using a switch to go back and forth between QAM and OTA ?

Thanks to all here for a very useful and informative forum.

Although I don't know what is wrong with your situation I know Cox doesn't encrypt the HD feeds for NBC, ABC, FOX & NETV. I have Cox here in La Vista with a JVC HD-61Z786 and can pick up all the stations at the channels you listed via the QAM tuner.

What Logitech remotes (both current and discontinued) can directly change inputs on the JVC DILAs instead of the excruciatingly slow cycle process the JVC remote exhibits? In other words, what Logitech remotes will allow me to go from Video 1 directly to Video 3, Video 4 to Video 2, etc?

My 880 allows this. I assume that many, if not all, of the Harmony remotes allow direct access to the inputs.

Videobruce--
Per a comment you made in a previous message in this thread, I purchased the OneForAll 9910, but I can't seem to program the direct input (see the following message). Were you able to??
esteps

56G Remote Control
As many of you know, this year's remotes (RM-C14G) lack the direct input buttons that last year's (RM-C15G) had. I wish to purchase last year's remote (cost over 50 bucks) for direct input. Have any of you done so, and verified that last year's remote (and direct input) will in fact work for the current model?
I have a universal learning remote but it cannot learn the direct input because this year's "inferior" remote lacks this feature.
Thanks.
esteps

zabo; have you tried to manually enter the channel by pressing 1-0-7-sub-1?

That could be answered just by what you are doing. Run a scan on the cable channels, swap leads, direct input a OTA channel and see if it recognizes it. I'm not clear on just how this set switches the tuner mode from ATSC to QAM. With NTSC tuners, usually there is a setting to choose between air and cable. With digital thrown in to thje mix, it's not just different frequencies above channel 13, it's a different transmission format so it gets more complicated. :(

It never fails to amaze me the number that AREN'T using any of these built in tuners on these HD ready sets bypassing it with a STB instead of using the CC. :(

Thanks Videobruce - I have tried pressing 1-0-7-sub-1 and that does not work. I will try your suggestion about swapping the leads and direct-inputting the channel and let you know if that works for switching.

Although I don't know what is wrong with your situation I know Cox doesn't encrypt the HD feeds for NBC, ABC, FOX & NETV. I have Cox here in La Vista with a JVC HD-61Z786 and can pick up all the stations at the channels you listed via the QAM tuner.

Thanks for the response, Huskerforlife. Just to be sure we are running on the same setup - I have Cox basic only, not digital cable (I was told I did not need it to receive the QAM channels). Do you have Cox basic or digital ? One other question - are you using a cable card ? Again, I did not think I needed that to receive QAM in the clear channels we are talking about here.

Thanks for the help

Is there any way to manually tune in the ATSC channels? I have to do this, since on of the stations I pick up is in a different direction than the rest of my channels, and so have two antennas hooked up to an A/B switch.

As a follow up to my previous posts regarding the operation of the ATSC/QAM tuner on my 56G886 -

First of all, I called Cox again - after finally getting someone who knows about QAM, I was able to confirm that they are broadcasting ABC, NBC, FOX, and NET unencrypted and should be able to pick up with a QAM tuner. Huskerforlife also confirmed that he was receiving this signal on his 61. The guy at Cox had me disconnect the splitter (the one that came with the JVC set) and plug directly into the digital input on the set. Then we re-scanned for digital channels setting the input to "digital cable". My set picked up quite a few more channels and after going through them, I found I was able to receive NBC on 6-1 and ABC on 7-1. I am still not able to receive FOX or NET. In addition, NBC and ABC kept cutting out and giving me a weak signal message. The Cox guy was no further help. He was going to email someone else and get back to me.

Regarding the issue of entering channels manually and switching between QAM and ATSC (OTA), I disconnected the coax cable and connected my antenna lead and manually entered my local digital hdtv network channels - nothing ("no program" message). I tried changing the tuner setup to ATSC without rescanning - tried entering the channels manually again - nothing. The only way to pick up the OTA channels is to re-scan with the antenna lead connected and ATSC selected in tuner setup. So, in conclusion, it does not appear that the tuner in these sets will seamlessly integrate OTA and QAM (as you can do with the LG STB for example). This is somewhat disappointing.

Thanks to all for a great forum. Hope I contributed something.

Thanks for the response, Huskerforlife. Just to be sure we are running on the same setup - I have Cox basic only, not digital cable (I was told I did not need it to receive the QAM channels). Do you have Cox basic or digital ? One other question - are you using a cable card ? Again, I did not think I needed that to receive QAM in the clear channels we are talking about here.

Thanks for the help

When I first got the 61z786 last April I only had basic and could pull in the HD stations via QAM. At that time none of the HD stations were scrambled including ESPN-HD & Discovery HD. Since then Cox scrambled everything except the network stations but I can still pull those in via QAM. I currently have Cox's DVR which requires the purchase of digital cable.
I do not have a cable card.

You might want to move this question to this thread:
Omaha / Lincoln, NE - HDTV
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=144464

Lots of local people who may have some other thoughts.

esteps; I don't have this set (yet). The Mits I have now (it's going back) is able to do a direct mode with the remote (one of the nicer things about the set).

Those of you that have "regular" progressive scan dvd players, how satisfied are you with the ability of the DIST to upscale the 480P or 480i input?

For those that have an upconverting dvd player, do you prefer the upconversion by the dvd player or DIST?

Hello,

I finally got my JVC 61z886 repaired after over 20 phone calls 3 failed deliveries and 20 hours of my own time. The shop had my set for 2 weeks and replaced the Light Engine.
My set now appears to be less smooth, clear and focused, seems very pixilated also. My wife even noticed this too, so you know it’s not just my imagination. I also went through to try to tweak it again, and could not get it back to the way it was.

Someone had mentioned (I believe it was WeAreNotAlone69) that they usually fail to do all the steps required when replacing the light engine.

My question is that after replacing the light engine, if not done properly, would this cause a degradation of overall picture quality? Or maybe there is something else going on?

My plan is to have another shop come out and look at it ON-SITE this time but I want to make sure he does all the necessary checks/steps. Can someone please post the steps that should be checked, or let me know where I can get a copy of the service manual?

Thanks for all the great posts!

Take care,

Jesse

From page 5 of the YA-092 Z series Service Manual

Section 1.5 SERVICE PARTS KIT INSTRUCTIONS
Due to the charter of this product, these 3 parts kits are prepared.
Please note these matters when replacing or ordering the parts.

1.5.1 PART number and construction

Parts number TS-COP5A-SA
Part name: Optical /Drive Ass'y

OPTICAL /DRIVE ASS'Y CONSTRUCTION
OPTICAL BLOCK
(Included HD-ILA DEVICE, PROJECTIONS LENS)
MAIN DRIVE PWB ASS'Y


PRECAUTION FOR USING:

1) When it is required to replace one of these, replace this kit.
Replace all components of this kit.
: H-ILA device, optical block MAIN DRIVE PWB ASS'Y
The memory IC stored adjustment data.
So it is required to replace all parts together.

2)When replace the MAIN DRIVE ASS'Y, take off the memory IC from the original board and replace with new one.
When replace the MAIN PWD ASS'Y, do the same manner. Replace memory IC.

3)After replacement of Optical block, objective lens focus adjustment is required.

not sure what any of this means, or no way to tell if they replaced all these parts... BUT, THANKS!!! =)

As a follow up to my previous posts regarding the operation of the ATSC/QAM tuner on my 56G886 -

Regarding the issue of entering channels manually and switching between QAM and ATSC (OTA), I disconnected the coax cable and connected my antenna lead and manually entered my local digital hdtv network channels - nothing ("no program" message). I tried changing the tuner setup to ATSC without rescanning - tried entering the channels manually again - nothing. The only way to pick up the OTA channels is to re-scan with the antenna lead connected and ATSC selected in tuner setup. So, in conclusion, it does not appear that the tuner in these sets will seamlessly integrate OTA and QAM (as you can do with the LG STB for example). This is somewhat disappointing.

Thanks to all for a great forum. Hope I contributed something.

Not sure how you tried to enter the channels manually. Do you mean, just by using the number keypad on the remote? Or, is there a "manual" setting that you can get to through the menu system?

Also... for all of you HTPC people out there. I just hooked this TV up via an DVI - HDMI cable, and can't get the picture to fill the whole screen. Any ideas? I've got an NVIDIA 6600 running pushing out 720p at 1024x768 at 60hz. What setting should I have this on, and what Aspect should I set the TV at?

Not sure how you tried to enter the channels manually. Do you mean, just by using the number keypad on the remote? Or, is there a "manual" setting that you can get to through the menu system?

I used the keypad to enter the channel number and sub channel. I am not aware of any "manual" setting throught the menu system.

What Logitech remotes (both current and discontinued) can directly change inputs on the JVC DILAs instead of the excruciatingly slow cycle process the JVC remote exhibits? In other words, what Logitech remotes will allow me to go from Video 1 directly to Video 3, Video 4 to Video 2, etc?

I would assume all of them, I know my 678 (?) does. It works on macros, so it doesn't technically cycle thru inputs, it just sends the correct signal.

Anyone that lost a bulb, did the set get dark prior to the bulb dying? It seems to me the last 2-3 days that my set is darker. Though I can't say with much certainty that the set is definitely darker, it does appear less bright then my memory recalls. I do have a filter mod, though I fail to see how that could possibly affect brightness output 3 months later, leaving me to assume that if any issue, it's with the bulb.

Is there any way to check your bulb, such as the hours used or status of? I know I can check the bulb in the SM, I just don't recall that being very helpful. I should probably order a bulb as a back up, but the set is less then 6 months old and I would hope JVC would just send a new bulb out.

I should probably order a bulb as a back up, but the set is less then 6 months old and I would hope JVC would just send a new bulb out.

Then the one JVC sends becomes your spare bulb. I've been meaning to order a back up for some time now, but I always find something else to spend the money on. :)

Ktulu_1- True. I'd just feel better if I could get a confirmation that my bulb is indeed going bad before I ordered a $200 bulb 2 weeks before Christmas.

Help me guys! I have a 52G786 that was purchase in late July. For the most part everything has been working fine, until today. When I turned on the set today the brightness is about 60% of what it was previously. THe screen is much darker and there is nothing in the setup screens that would cause this. Is the bulb going out? I have only had the unit for 3 months! I would say at best the unit is under average use and no where near the advertised hours of the bulb life.

Is there a setting or something that I need to check to get back the brightness? I checked that it is on the standard scheme and not the theater (which is a bit darker).

Thanks in advance


Any update to this news? Was it the bulb? Your particular descriptions sounds identical to my current situation.

kid red, a darkening means it will go anytime, at least mine did.

last Wednesday my TV was about 50% as bright as normal. Lamp died Friday night. JVC placed the new lamp order on Thursday but it did not ship until Monday, via two day FedEx. Scheduled delivery this Wed.

in the other jvc thread the whats inside a dila thread i think, there is a formula for hours on. i will get the link.
here tis,

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154

it is on page one.

How long are these lamps supposed to last?

supposed to be 4000 or so hours, i got a month outta the first bulb, i am on number two now with around 800 hours. if it blows i have a spare but after that i am switching for a sony a10 50inch. i really love this jvc though.

If your bulb dies and you have had your TV less than a year, Is the procedure to call JVC and have them send you a new *FREE* bulb? Do they ask for the old bulb to be returned to them so they can determine the problem (or determine that your bulb actually died)??

I've had my 61Z786 since late August and I have NO issue with my bulb, but since it seems to be something that can pop up on a person I would like to be prepared for when/if it does.

So:
Anyone have a particular JVC phone number they called to get the replacement bulb ordered?

If my TV starts to look darker (ala Kid Red) can I order it then or do I have to wait until it dies?

How do they know my bulb actually died? Do they require you to send the blown bulb back?

Again - I am assuming that within the first year the bulb would be replaced for *FREE*
Is that a correct assumption??
thanks guys!

My HTPC setup,

Well I finally got an htpc (mce 2005) running on my set. I am pleased with the quality overall. Right now I'm running via component with a custom resolution of 1192 X 668 to compensate for the overscan. I don't have any complaints with the quality but my goal is to get everything running through hdmi so I can be ready for DRM this coming year.

My htpc specs, Asus A8N-SLI premium motherboard, AMD 4400 X2, Nvidia BFG 7800GTX video, (2) WD 74GB raptors, (1) 400GB Seagate, Fusion HDTV 5 lite, 2GB OCZ Titanium dual channel memory, m-audio 7.1 revo sound card, hauppauge 250, MCE 2005.

DVI - HDMI testing, originally I was running forceware 81.87 and I could not get anything out of the dvi, it would post and see the XP logo then when driver kicked in no picture. I am dual booting and had a fresh install so I booted to that which had a default windows driver and I was able to get to a desktop, thus something with the my driver was the problem. I upgraded to forceware 81.95 and had a working desktop.

Now my problem is getting my custom resolution back, when set it wants to stretch the image and not resize it to the screen like it was doing via component. Any ideas for this setting?

Quality.....I am not pleased with the quality of DVI compared to component. When I am at the main MCE screen the blue background looks horrible, it looks like waves rolling across the screen, some kind of artifact or something, but it is in motion on the static image. (not an issue on component). I loaded up the WMV HD 720p T2 trailer and it looked very good, equal to component, possible slightly sharper. OTA HD content also looked good. If it werent for the static image quality and this resolution issue I would be happy.

Well, I am thrilled. I discovered 3-digit "advanced codes" on the web (not the 4 digit OFA codes) that control each function on the remote. I plugged them into my remote for each Video input and I now have direct input! Problem solved--now I love my 56G even more.
esteps

Videobruce--
Per a comment you made in a previous message in this thread, I purchased the OneForAll 9910, but I can't seem to program the direct input (see the following message). Were you able to??
esteps


Quote:
Originally Posted by esteps
56G Remote Control
As many of you know, this year's remotes (RM-C14G) lack the direct input buttons that last year's (RM-C15G) had. I wish to purchase last year's remote (cost over 50 bucks) for direct input. Have any of you done so, and verified that last year's remote (and direct input) will in fact work for the current model?
I have a universal learning remote but it cannot learn the direct input because this year's "inferior" remote lacks this feature.
Thanks.
esteps

K, I emailed JVC yesterday and they UPS-ed out a bulb that I will get tomorrow. They suggest it may be the bulb and to at the least, replace the bulb and see if that fixes my darkness issue. Yesterday, you could barely see the picture on the TV, so it has to be the bulb. I fear today, the picture would be non existent and that the bulb will blow.

At least I'll have a new bulb tomorrow. I'll report back if indeed that was the cause/issue. I still absolutely love my JVC and would not want any newbies or researchers assuming this is a negative mark against the JVC. The picture is still quite amazing and this replacement bulb, shipped UPS overnight, was free of charge. It's so nice to see customer service like that in this all for yourself present day America.

I would say that 1 out of 3 times that I power up my 52G886 (owned for 2 months), I see a faint smudge near the center to upper left hand side of screen. The shape is not consistent. I assume this is dust but I checked around the vents and I couldn't see an excess of dust there. Could there be dust inside the TV that I would have to call a technician to get out?

Why does it only happen sometimes? Is this problem common to you folks?

What Logitech remotes (both current and discontinued) can directly change inputs on the JVC DILAs instead of the excruciatingly slow cycle process the JVC remote exhibits? In other words, what Logitech remotes will allow me to go from Video 1 directly to Video 3, Video 4 to Video 2, etc?


I have the Harmony 880 and it works great. It is programmed through the logitech website, and does switch inputs directly. Now my wife is VERY happy!

I have a Z series that i purchased at the beginning of the year. This morning I went to turn it on and as the lamp cycles to warm up I can hear a fast paced ticking sound which lasts about 3 seconds, then stops. It does the ticking cycle 3 times, afterwards the set immediatly shuts down and the power and lamp lights start blinking together at a quick pace. I tried doing a search and didn't come up with much, so I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this? I read the manual and it suggested that the lamp door may not be closed, so I checked that and it didn't help. It also suggested that it may be some sort of malfunction. I'd just like to have a little knowledge of the problem before I have to turn to customer service. Can anybody give me some information on this? Thanks!

I had the same problem on my 56G. Called JVC and they said to unplug the set for an hour, and if it was still a problem to call back and they would send a new bulb. The unplug did not work, so I called back, and had a replacement bulb delivered in 4 days - no charge. I kept the old bulb (fortunately! - now I have an extra). The new bulb started doing the same thing after about 2 weeks. I rechecked the door, and re-tightened the 2 screws holding the bulb in place. I have not had the problem since - about 2 months. My thought is that through the first few weeks of heating an cooling, the bulb just gets a little loose, and the connection slips just enough to trigger the error signal.

BTW- JVC Customer Support was excellent.

[QUOTE=Kid Red]K, I emailed JVC yesterday and they UPS-ed out a bulb that I will get tomorrow. They suggest it may be the bulb and to at the least, replace the bulb and see if that fixes my darkness issue. Yesterday, you could barely see the picture on the TV, so it has to be the bulb. I fear today, the picture would be non existent and that the bulb will blow.

Kid Red.....can you post the hours on your set now.

If your bulb dies and you have had your TV less than a year, Is the procedure to call JVC and have them send you a new *FREE* bulb? Do they ask for the old bulb to be returned to them so they can determine the problem (or determine that your bulb actually died)??

I've had my 61Z786 since late August and I have NO issue with my bulb, but since it seems to be something that can pop up on a person I would like to be prepared for when/if it does.

So:
Anyone have a particular JVC phone number they called to get the replacement bulb ordered?

If my TV starts to look darker (ala Kid Red) can I order it then or do I have to wait until it dies?

How do they know my bulb actually died? Do they require you to send the blown bulb back?

Again - I am assuming that within the first year the bulb would be replaced for *FREE*
Is that a correct assumption??
thanks guys!


they did not ask to send the bulb back, i "lied to them" to get a spare :D , they know it is a bulb issue and usually ask no questions.

they did not ask to send the bulb back, i "lied to them" to get a spare :D , they know it is a bulb issue and usually ask no questions.

That type of behavior will make it difficult for true customers in need to get assistance...shame on you! :mad:

[QUOTE=Kid Red]
Kid Red.....can you post the hours on your set now.

How exactly would I gather that information? I saw a link to it earlier, but if someone can just post the gist of it I can see what I can do.

That type of behavior will make it difficult for true customers in need to get assistance...shame on you! :mad:


i dont think so, the guy at jvc said it was an issue with the bulbs. i truly did lose one bulb they replaced it, and upon reading all the backorder posts here at avs(the land of wheeling and dealing) i emailed the jvc guy and he said sure, it took 2 weeks to get the spare. i do not feel bad at all for covering my arse over a manufacturing issue. it also shows jvc's support for the product. the jvc 1 800 support is shite, standard call center stuff. you have got to get past them to get anything done.

hey kid red,
in this thread
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154

post #1

the 2 images listed get you to the right registers
d070 and d071

in post #41 is a little help

post 53 clarifies the numbers

hope that helps
it also seems to only update on power cycles not in real time. peace out.

Well, I am thrilled. I discovered 3-digit "advanced codes" on the web (not the 4 digit OFA codes) that control each function on the remote. I plugged them into my remote for each Video input and I now have direct input! Problem solved--now I love my 56G even more.
esteps

Videobruce--
Per a comment you made in a previous message in this thread, I purchased the OneForAll 9910, but I can't seem to program the direct input (see the following message). Were you able to??
esteps


Quote:
Originally Posted by esteps
56G Remote Control
As many of you know, this year's remotes (RM-C14G) lack the direct input buttons that last year's (RM-C15G) had. I wish to purchase last year's remote (cost over 50 bucks) for direct input. Have any of you done so, and verified that last year's remote (and direct input) will in fact work for the current model?
I have a universal learning remote but it cannot learn the direct input because this year's "inferior" remote lacks this feature.
Thanks.
esteps

OK.. for a OneForAll 9910... (and I assume ANY One For All remote)

What are the 3-digit "advanced codes" codes?

Better yet..... would you happen to have a link to where you found the clodes?

I would assume you book-marked the page... made a copy of the info?

The website is www.hifi-remote.com. The advanced codes are for JVC setup code 0053.
It has complete explanation and is not difficult. The codes are Video 1 (121), Video 2 (119), Video 3 (116), Video 4 (251), HDMI (120), D/A tuner (117).
When you are finished you will feel like Einstein.
Let me know if you have questions.
esteps

OK.. for a OneForAll 9910... (and I assume ANY One For All remote)

What are the 3-digit "advanced codes" codes?

Better yet..... would you happen to have a link to where you found the clodes?

I would assume you book-marked the page... made a copy of the info?

And those allow direct input entry??

Yep.
esteps
And those allow direct input entry??

Esteps,

Did you get my PM reference power light / startup issue?

Cheers

No, but I still have you in mind. Last week I called JVC and they were ignorant, but did refer me to the local service tech for JVC. I was going to call him but I think I will wait until after the holidays. Any progress from your end?
esteps

Esteps,

Did you get my PM reference power light / startup issue?

Cheers

No, but I still have you in mind. Last week I called JVC and they were ignorant, but did refer me to the local service tech for JVC. I was going to call him but I think I will wait until after the holidays. Any progress from your end?
esteps

Check PM, possible fix sent.

Cheers

Well I had a tech replace the tuner board and still the same problem. He says it is most likely the hdmi board as that board basically controls the entire set for color.

This pisses me off. Now I have to wait another 7-10 days to have him come again. He tells me jvc sucks as far as getting things done.

I've got a technician coming out today to take a look at my Green flashing screen. Good to know it may be the HDMI board. I was thinking it was the blue and red drives dying out after 30 minutes of operation.

K, I switched out my bulb with the one JVC sent and that fixed it. My set is back!

My numbers for the old bulb were (I can't do the math)

70-
003 03 0000 0011

71-
174 AE 1010 1110

So if someone can apply the formula and arrive at the used time of the bulb and post it that would be great.

Thanks Kid Red. Now we know what's going on when the tv starts getting dark. Sorry you had to be the test case.

I'm not looking forward to replacing the bulb, but if I keep leaving the thing on when I go to bed, like last night, it wont be long.

K, I switched out my bulb with the one JVC sent and that fixed it. My set is back!

My numbers for the old bulb were (I can't do the math)

70-
003 03 0000 0011

71-
174 AE 1010 1110

So if someone can apply the formula and arrive at the used time of the bulb and post it that would be great.

If I understand the formula from the service manual, I get 942 hrs.

003*256+174=942

My numbers for the old bulb were (I can't do the math)
70-
003 03 0000 0011
71-
174 AE 1010 1110
So if someone can apply the formula and arrive at the used time of the bulb and post it that would be great. It's one of the test questions for becoming a JVC tech. ;)

Hey all. I just received my JVC 52” last night, my very first HDTV, and I have a few noobie questions. I’ve read through about 10 pages of the thread and couldn’t find what I’m looking for.

First off I’m using Comcast digital cable with the DVR box (has component and DVI output).

1) What is the ATSC hookup on the TV for? Will I be able to get HDTV by just running components from the cable box straight to the input 1 on the TV without using the ATSC hookup at all?

2) I plan on getting a HDMI/DVI cable to run that instead, will there be much of a difference?

3) How can I tell what resolution my TV is currently displaying (480p, 720p, etc.)?

4) I plan on getting AVIA to calibrate the display. What visual effects should be turned off (color management, dynamic gamma, etc.)?

5) Any other visual settings most people alter that I should know about?

Thanks for any help guys.

If I understand the formula from the service manual, I get 942 hrs.

003*256+174=942

I came up with the same answer! Thanks for the report on the lamp hours Kid Red, you can if you want to, refer to pg 66 and reset the lamp timer for the new bulb?? if you havent already done so. My lamp is approaching 800 hrs now, and I don't know if it is really happening or not, maybe the power of suggestion, but my picture seems to be slightly dimmer now?? Played with all the controls last night, most programs seem like they are darker than normal. Watched Letterman, the pic there was normal appearing. Was getting strength of 92-93 OTA on an inside antenna, (29 miles away) and could not tell any difference between it and channel 1060 on BHN. Bulb replacement 1 800 252-5722 or is there a 'better' number.??

No replies for me? :(

I would say that 1 out of 3 times that I power up my 52G886 (owned for 2 months), I see a faint smudge near the center to upper left hand side of screen. The shape is not consistent. I assume this is dust but I checked around the vents and I couldn't see an excess of dust there. Could there be dust inside the TV that I would have to call a technician to get out?

Why does it only happen sometimes? Is this problem common to you folks?

Polybus

I have the same problem, but after a few minute with the TV being on, the smudge disappears.....

That sounds as the same problem in one of the other sets threads (Samsung?) regarding the space (or lack of it) between the two screens.
I would call for service. Someone should see the issue and log a service call on it.
Not doing so, doesn't get any issue resolved if the manufacture doesn't have a record of it.

IOW's, the squeaky wheel gets the grease.

Is the smudge only visible against certain colour backgrounds? I have the same TV and I haven't seen a smudge like that, but then again I haven't looked for one. Is the smudge any particular colour? Does it only appear when you use certain inputs?

I came up with the same answer! Thanks for the report on the lamp hours Kid Red, you can if you want to, refer to pg 66 and reset the lamp timer for the new bulb?? if you havent already done so. My lamp is approaching 800 hrs now, and I don't know if it is really happening or not, maybe the power of suggestion, but my picture seems to be slightly dimmer now?? Played with all the controls last night, most programs seem like they are darker than normal. Watched Letterman, the pic there was normal appearing. Was getting strength of 92-93 OTA on an inside antenna, (29 miles away) and could not tell any difference between it and channel 1060 on BHN. Bulb replacement 1 800 252-5722 or is there a 'better' number.??


i get 942 as well, currenlty i have 870 on the second bulb, i sure hope 800-1000 is not the lifespan.

of note, when mine died the whites got dimmer, color was the same, it was gradual until it popped, adjusting the controls made little to no difference.

1) What is the ATSC hookup on the TV for? Will I be able to get HDTV by just running components from the cable box straight to the input 1 on the TV without using the ATSC hookup at all?

The ATSC tuner hook up is for an over the air antenna to pick up broadcast HD Channels. I've never seen this, but I've heard they look "better" that what DTV and cable offer. But yes, just plug your cable box into the TV 1 input and set the television to it and you'll get picture. Easy as pie.


2) I plan on getting a HDMI/DVI cable to run that instead, will there be much of a difference?

I run this TV on component - some have said HDMI/DVI improves the picture, some say it doesn't. It's really dependant on you and what you like.

3) How can I tell what resolution my TV is currently displaying (480p, 720p, etc.)?

From what I understand the TV will always display 720p - it upconverts (or in the cast of 1080i up/down converts) the signal to display at 720p. I'm not sure if you can get any sort of notification on the resolution of your source, though.

4) I plan on getting AVIA to calibrate the display. What visual effects should be turned off (color management, dynamic gamma, etc.)?

I turned all effects off except for Color Management. I first did my adjustments with a THX optimizer on "Pirates of the Carribean" and "Monster's Inc", and then ran through Digital Video Essentials, which is an AVIA equivalent.

5) Any other visual settings most people alter that I should know about?

Something specific I turned down was the detail (sharpness) setting - there are too many compression artifacts at a higher sharpness. I have it down to like -15 or so. It helped soften the picture and bring out a filmlike image.

Hope this helps - It's hard getting responses from the old timers in this thread. :)

polybus- I believe that was the 'TV is cold' syndrome. I'm assuming it goes away once the TV has warmed up? See I don't get that down here in Florida where our winters hover above blistering cold 55º :)

so 942 hours? I've had the set since August which is four months. 4 x30 days is 120 days/942 is about 8 hours a day, 7 days a week. The JVC tech said that I may have received a 'defective' bulb, so I'm hoping that this bulb lasts a helluva lot longer then a paltry 942 hours.

Thanks irena, you were very helpful.

4) I plan on getting AVIA to calibrate the display. What visual effects should be turned off (color management, dynamic gamma, etc.)?

5) Any other visual settings most people alter that I should know about?

Thanks for any help guys.


get DVE as well, the white level can be tricky until the set is broken in, i prefer the white level patterns in DVE, do not discount the dynamic gamma it can help on certain situations with SD content. search for my posts and you will find a tweak for noise reduction over HDMI, it got rid of a lot of mosquito noise on my set. actually since that tweak i haven't even been in the user menu or service menu. good luck with the set.

No replies for me? :(

I would say that 1 out of 3 times that I power up my 52G886 (owned for 2 months), I see a faint smudge near the center to upper left hand side of screen. The shape is not consistent. I assume this is dust but I checked around the vents and I couldn't see an excess of dust there. Could there be dust inside the TV that I would have to call a technician to get out?

Why does it only happen sometimes? Is this problem common to you folks?


sounds to me like what kid red said, i have seen it on mine back in the summer, we keep our house pretty cool in the summer but on days we are both out the a/c would be off and upon power up we would see a smudge. once the room cooled and set warmed up it vanished. i read somewhere that moisture can get between the screen layers and cause this, if you lightly push on it and it goes away it is moisture. a kinda common thing on rptvs.

I found it here (http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=201967890&SearchEngine=Froogle&SearchTerm=201967890&Type=PE&Category=Comp&Gad=0&dcaid=17379) but it says it's currently unavailable. Judging from the Logitech website, it's probably not made anymore, so either find it used or get one of the newer models..
we sell the 659 harmony for $100 i have one and really debated on getting it for the longest time and then finally i got it and its so great so easy to use you will never get another universal remote again. The harmony is the king of remotes you can cutomize it to do just about anything you want. It makes it so easy to operate everything and you can change things as you add new componets or change or upgrade componets as well. Go to logitechs website and read about them. If you want one contact me at kcgroupinc@mac.com we are authorized dealers of the harmony remotes.
Thanks

get DVE as well, the white level can be tricky until the set is broken in, i prefer the white level patterns in DVE, do not discount the dynamic gamma it can help on certain situations with SD content. search for my posts and you will find a tweak for noise reduction over HDMI, it got rid of a lot of mosquito noise on my set. actually since that tweak i haven't even been in the user menu or service menu. good luck with the set.
how do you get into the user menu and the service menu on the jvc. i just bought the jvc 70g886 and it needs some calibration.

lovemymac; They just shut down a couple of threads because of what you are trying to do.
Please, no dealers pitching their wares here. Besides, for under $30 the AllForOne 9910 is just as good without all that website based setup crap.
As far as the SM, do a search, there is a "What's inside" thread for this set.

oh we are not trying to push anything i was just trying to help. What is the allforone9910 i dont know i have heard of that one where can i find it.

Ok, I got it backwards, it's OneForAll;
http://www.ofausa.com/list_remotes.php?type=Premium%20Learning%20Line

and especially this;
http://www.hifi-remote.com/ofa/

There is always the popular Harmony, but for around $80-90 LESS, this works fine.

Thanks for replies. I didn't see much smudging over the weekend. You really can only see it with white/bright backgrounds. I'll have to take a more scientific approach to when the smudging occurs and if it goes away if I leave the TV on. I'll report results as soon as I have some. By the way, I do live in New Jersey and it has been cold the past couple of weeks. This weekend it was pretty warm so maybe thats it.

has anyone calibrated this device is? and if so, care to share your settings? thanks in advance

I tried resetting the hdmi port myself but it still didn't work, I'm just going to have a service tech fix it for me since it's still under warranty, I can't even imagine getting another t.v., this t.v. is awesome I haven't seen a t.v. that even comes close to the brightness or sharpness, it gives plasma t.v's a run for there money.

For some reason the service tech, that reset my t.v. told me that the reason my hdmi port became disabled is because I had to much sun light hitting the back of the hdmi port. He stated that JVC knows about this and has not corrected the problem, it sounds crazy to me but, if that's the case could n't I just cover the hdmi port with duct tape, so that it's not affected by sun light. If anyone has heard anything similar about this, and can give me any suggestions please let me know.

http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=485598#POST485598
there is some info here about the optical sensor

also the user "wearenotalone69" search his posts for diy hdmi reset.

I have a newbie question that I hope someone can help me with.
I have a 52g786 connect via component output to a sammy dvd hd-950. I applied the remote hack so the dvd player is upconverting thru component. With the DVD player I can switch output to 480p 720p 768p and 1080i. However if I use 1080i or 720p the set uses the picture settings I have applied for the HDMI input which is connected to my STB. These settings do not work well for DVDs and vise versa. But with the dvd outputting to 420 or 768p I can change the display settings on the TV without affecting the digital input settings I already have.

So what exactly is happening here? Am I losing any PQ at 768P. To my eye. The 768p look better than the 1080i or 720p. Being able to adjust the PQ for this input separately really makes it appealing as well.

Thanks for the help. This is a great thread.

the settings applied are on the scan rate input during adjustment. it you feed 720p and adjust it, the set will retain those settings for that scan rate. i am not sure it matters which cable you use though. happy holidays.

i just got a 61z456 yesterday and can't pick up any ota hd channels. my last tv the mits didn't have any problems picking them up. i live about 5 miles from the towers. i have a little antenna inside my house.

I turned my 52G on tonight and the picture is not as bright as it use to be. Seems dim (all channels/ all inputs) I just bought this set this past August can the bulb already be going out? Can I replace myself and where can I purchase one?

bump

I'm trying to set this tv up with a Xantech IR system. Does anyone know where the ir window is located on the TV?

I'm trying to set this tv up with a Xantech IR system. Does anyone know where the ir window is located on the TV?

The IR sensor is behind the screen down in the center next to the final lens. It is aimed to pick up signals from the primary mirror. You could possibly remove the screen and fish a wire in through either the air intake or the side control panel.

illini; Some more details?
What's your zip or name of your suburb assuming you don't live in Cincinnati?
Did you do a ATSC scan first?

I turned my 52G on tonight and the picture is not as bright as it use to be. Seems dim (all channels/ all inputs) I just bought this set this past August can the bulb already be going out? Can I replace myself and where can I purchase one?

Call the 1-800 # for JVC and ask for replacement. YOu have a 1 yr warranty. You must be patient until you get a live person to talk to and tell them your situation. They ups'ed me one for the same problem. P.S. replacement is simple, take your bulb out now and have a look. remove panel and two screws and the lamp assembly pulls out. Dont touch bulb.

zip 45211 yes i did the atsc scan. no digital channels at all.

Is this you?;
http://tiger.census.gov/cgi-bin/mapsurfer?act=out&outfact=2&map.x=211&map.y=180&lat=39.1519127&lon=-84.5971069&wid=0.013&ht=0.013&iht=359&iwd=422&&&&mlat=39.152401&mlon=-84.596714&msym=redpin&mlabel=45211__Cincinnati_

If so, then 2150 shows this;
http://www.2150.com/broadcast/default.asp?latitude=39%2E1519127&longitude=%2D84%2E5971069&magnetic_north=%2D13%2E25&range=100&sort=distance&show_expired=False&show_construction=False&show_analog=False&show_low_power=False&action=Show+Stations

You have no network affiliates in the Cinn. market area?? :confused:

i could get fox abc nbc just three days ago before i got the jvc.

http://www.antennaweb.org/aw/Address.aspx

Is this tv any good? What is the picture like for sports? DVDs? HD channels? Just wondering what yall think :o

I've had the set for almost 4 months now and I love it. Football looks great. Had the family over on Christmas Eve and the tv room was filled with everybody basically in awe watching the game. DVD's look great on the set. One complaint is there's only one HDMI input, so I bought a non-upconverting sony DVD player with a high D/A video conversion rate, and it looks great. The HDMI is hooked to the cable box and HD looks great. SD is ok and I really think the HDMI helps things out alot. I got a new entertainment center which made the old 3' cable unusable. I ordered a new 6' cable, but in the interim I hooked it up via component. I noticed a difference and couldn't wait for the HDMI cable to get here. Overall, no problems and if I had it to do all over again, I would buy the JVC.

Could someone tell me approx' when JVC released the "G"series this year?
The "G" series didn't arrive at the local brick & mortar until early October on the east coast.

The reason I'm asking is because I'v been waiting for the "F" series to appear on display and I (assume) it will take the same amount of time for the "F" series to arrive after release.

Seems the JVC's arrive on the west coast 1st and move eastward...make sense...?

I'm currently running a 4 year old Toshiba progressive scan DVD player with my JVC. Would I notice any difference in DVDs if I bought a DVD player that upconverts to 720p (like the oppo)?

Seems the JVC's arrive on the west coast 1st and move eastward...make sense...? They are made in Mexico aren't they? Short trip, besides there is plenty of $$ in Calif.

That's where they get delivered first.

The IR sensor is behind the screen down in the center next to the final lens. It is aimed to pick up signals from the primary mirror. You could possibly remove the screen and fish a wire in through either the air intake or the side control panel.


Thanks, took the screen off and was able to do exactly as you described. Works like a champ.

I've had the set for almost 4 months now and I love it. Football looks great. Had the family over on Christmas Eve and the tv room was filled with everybody basically in awe watching the game.

This was my experience exactly. I'm pretty happy with my TV too. :)

I just replaced my bulb on a 52g786. Total hours on the bulb = 572. It was still working, however was very dim. JVC service FEDEX'ed me a new one. Note the bulge on the stem of bulb, looks close to blowing. JVC also gave me a return label to send back my old bulb to their QC department which I intend to do.

JVC original bulb

Is there a way to determine how many hours are on the lamp? Is there a register that can be looked at for total hours?

I'm also very happy with my 52G886 so far. Only complaint is SD quality on certain channels, but even that seems to be getting better (or I'm getting used to it?) Some SD channels look great though, so it must be transmission quality rather than the set.

Thanks for replies. I didn't see much smudging over the weekend. You really can only see it with white/bright backgrounds. I'll have to take a more scientific approach to when the smudging occurs and if it goes away if I leave the TV on. I'll report results as soon as I have some. By the way, I do live in New Jersey and it has been cold the past couple of weeks. This weekend it was pretty warm so maybe thats it.

I agree with the cold TV Syndrome suggestion. The smudging does go away after a short while of the TV being on.

I'm also very happy with my 52G886 so far. Only complaint is SD quality on certain channels, but even that seems to be getting better (or I'm getting used to it?) Some SD channels look great though, so it must be transmission quality rather than the set.
I'm happy with my set as well. I know what you mean about SD channels. My experience is that OTA broadcast channels look the worst. Digital SD cable channels on the other hand look very good. Best examples of very good looking SD digital channels are the Movie Network cable channels.

I love the picture on this set in HD. My only problem is that during very high action scenes in HD, I seem to get some pixelization(sp). I have no problems at all on DVDs. Could this have anything to do with my cable setup? I have Comcast and have it feeding to my jvc at 1080.

I am using component cables to connect my cable box to my jvc.

I had a serious pixelization problem in HD during quick moving scenes on my Hitachi RPTV which I owned prior to my JVC. At the start of the Tonight Show when the camera moves around very quickly while the band is playing the pixelization was quite bad. At the time I was getting HD through an SA8300 STB from Rogers Cable here in Canada and it was hooked up to my TV with component cables. When i first got my JVC I had it hooked up using component cables and the pixelization was still there but not as bad. When I connected my STB to my JVC using an HDMI cable the pixelization was greatly reduced and is barely noticeable now. I understand that the problem is caused by the high bandwidth required by HD and in fast moving scenes the picture cannot be fed quickly enough to maintain the quality of the image. Using an HDMI cable feeds the JVC with the digital signal directly without converting it to analogue and then back to digital which probably explains the improved performance.

Is there a way to determine how many hours are on the lamp? Is there a register that can be looked at for total hours?
This is how you read the bulb hours. On your remote first push sleep, then push display and video status at the same time. then select 4 (even thought not on the screen) Navigate to D070, read the left most three digits. use this number *256, navigate to D071, read the left most three digits, add to first number. = total hours. i.e. D070=002 and D071=060 then total hours = (2*256)+(60)=572. :confused:

I love the picture on this set in HD. My only problem is that during very high action scenes in HD, I seem to get some pixelization(sp). I have no problems at all on DVDs. Could this have anything to do with my cable setup? I have Comcast and have it feeding to my jvc at 1080.

I am using component cables to connect my cable box to my jvc.

it is all about the source, that pixelation seems to be the norm on high action hd scenes.

it is all about the source, that pixelation seems to be the norm on high action hd scenes.


Are you saying this happens on most HD sets?

Are you saying this happens on most HD sets?
pixelation on high speed scenes in hd is common, factors include multicasting, compression of source, and the display. go to the hdtv threads here and you will see how common it is. with OTA HD is barely noticeable at least in my area. the D* HD i get has pixelation on fast action scenes and is commonly referred to as hd-lite. it really isn't an issue of any set but the source itself and the nature of the beast.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=34 (hdtv thread)

I recently downoaded some 720p movie trailers from xbox and am running through component. They are the best looking material I have seen on this TV. ZERO pixelation or noise. Reaffirms my belief that the noise is from the source (cable in my case).

Thanks for the all the help! With all that in mind, people are always complimenting me on the picture of my JVC, this was definitely a great buy for me.



Joe

I bought this set because it seemed so bright and everyone talked about it would blind you with its brightness. WEll now that i have it i am disapointed it does not seem to have near the brightness of my old hitachi 50v500 lcd and it was not exactlly bright.
I am not sure if its in my cables or settings or if i should not be going through my amp and then out to the tv but straight through to the TV. I did some of the adjustments on the service page and i cant figure out the brightness part where to set it at. I have tried a couple different things and nothing seems to make the darks look good. I have the brightness turned up to 14 on the compnet video 2 input.
Any help or if you need more info please let me know. Thanks so much

i am disapointed it does not seem to have near the brightness of my old hitachi 50v500 lcd and it was not exactlly bright. Wow! Thats' a first.............

I am not sure if its in my cables or settings or if i should not be going through my amp and then out to the tv but straight through to the TV. I did some of the adjustments on the service page and i cant figure out the brightness part where to set it at. I have tried a couple different things and nothing seems to make the darks look good. I have the brightness turned up to 14 on the compnet video 2 input.
Any help or if you need more info please let me know. Thanks so much

I found the best way to route the cables was directly to the TV. In other words the video component cables from my DVD player go directly to the TV as well as the video output from my STB. I would suggest that you get hold of the AVIA DVD which will help you calibrate the picture for the best black levels and grey scales. On my JVC I found that for HD TV and DVD's, leaving the picture setting at 0 and the brightness level at -10 produced the best results on the "standard" setting.

I found the best way to route the cables was directly to the TV. In other words the video component cables from my DVD player go directly to the TV as well as the video output from my STB. I would suggest that you get hold of the AVIA DVD which will help you calibrate the picture for the best black levels and grey scales. On my JVC I found that for HD TV and DVD's, leaving the picture setting at 0 and the brightness level at -10 produced the best results on the "standard" setting.


that seems to be the ballpark of adjustments, what is weird though, after a few months of viewing the dynamic gamma and digital noise reduction seem to be working at least on HD sources. it seems to lessen the pixelation with D* HD-Lite. i find you can turn up the detail setting to 0 and it is razor sharp as well. anyways something to tinker with. happy new year, punks.

that seems to be the ballpark of adjustments, what is weird though, after a few months of viewing the dynamic gamma and digital noise reduction seem to be working at least on HD sources. it seems to lessen the pixelation with D* HD-Lite. i find you can turn up the detail setting to 0 and it is razor sharp as well. anyways something to tinker with. happy new year, punks.

Yeah, I have the detail turned down to -15. Avia was showing some artifacts at the 0 detail setting although I must say I didn't mind it at 0. Very sharp. Avia indicated that -25 was the ideal setting, but I decided to compromise.

that seems to be the ballpark of adjustments, what is weird though, after a few months of viewing the dynamic gamma and digital noise reduction seem to be working at least on HD sources. it seems to lessen the pixelation with D* HD-Lite. i find you can turn up the detail setting to 0 and it is razor sharp as well. anyways something to tinker with. happy new year, punks.

Glad to get your thoughts on dynamic gamma and digital noise reduction. Others in this thread recommend turning them off to get the best picture, however, I left them on after trying them both on and off. They didn't seem to make much difference. I have noticed a considerable reduction in digital artifacting since I started viewing HD with the JVC and its HDMI hookup to the STB. It was terrible on my Hitachi with component cables, and the JVC as well with component cables.

Has anyone found that hdmi works better then componet or vise versa? I have a dvd called dve is that like the avia? What do you have your brightness set at in the service menu? i see it goes from 00 to 63 i think and i didnt know if the higher the # the higher the brightness or not.
Also what should i set the color at? i have them all set at 128 right now.

hdmi or component being better is up to the old eyeballs. i prefer my HD over hdmi, but my SD is better via component. dve is comparable to avia, i prefer dve but like avias ease of use. the color you speak of ,if it is the rgb drive settings, can only be adjusted via a grayscale cali. you can eyeball it though through trial and error. i dont recall making any brightness adjustments in the service menu on my set anyways.

just got off the phone with jvc reguarding the blub issue.waited 40 minutes to get someone.this guy was the rudest person i ever dealt with.he said there is no blub issues.its that none of us know how to use these tvs and thats why the bulbs are blowing.he told me the bulbs are only good for six months and thats it.also told me that all other manufactures bulbs are made by the same company.this is the biggest crock of bs iv ever heard.who wants to spend three grand on a tv and have to change the bulb every six months?

i am on my second bulb, if it makes it 6 months i will be happy. the first lated about 3. it this bulb blows i have made arrangments with my dealer to swap it out for a $ony A-10 50 incher. i agree every six months is BS.

Has anyone found that hdmi works better then componet or vise versa? I have a dvd called dve is that like the avia? What do you have your brightness set at in the service menu? i see it goes from 00 to 63 i think and i didnt know if the higher the # the higher the brightness or not.
Also what should i set the color at? i have them all set at 128 right now.

My experience is that HDMI produces a better picture in HD than Component with fewer digital artifacts. On the other hand there is no difference when viewing regular DVD's. The downside of HDMI is that at the moment I only seem to be able to get stereo sound through HDMI so I send digital sound output to my receiver and stereo analogue to my TV from my STB. I understand that DVE is the same as AVIA. I've never been in the service menu. I have picture and colour both at 0 on the regular menu.

just got off the phone with jvc reguarding the blub issue.waited 40 minutes to get someone.this guy was the rudest person i ever dealt with.he said there is no blub issues.its that none of us know how to use these tvs and thats why the bulbs are blowing.he told me the bulbs are only good for six months and thats it.also told me that all other manufactures bulbs are made by the same company.this is the biggest crock of bs iv ever heard.who wants to spend three grand on a tv and have to change the bulb every six months?

I agree, that's total BS. Officially they say 6000 to 8000 hours. I can live with that, but not 6 months. I suppose if you put your set in a cabinet and block the airflow that might cause problems. But I've got mine on a JVC stand for heavens sakes.

I wonder if it has occurred to anyone at JVC to try LED based lamps rather than good old mercury vapour. The LED flashlights I saw advertised at Christmas looked pretty good. Bulb lasts forever and very little power is used. I'm sure they could produce the intensity of the light required.

just got off the phone with jvc reguarding the blub issue.waited 40 minutes to get someone.this guy was the rudest person i ever dealt with.he said there is no blub issues.its that none of us know how to use these tvs and thats why the bulbs are blowing.he told me the bulbs are only good for six months and thats it.also told me that all other manufactures bulbs are made by the same company.this is the biggest crock of bs iv ever heard.who wants to spend three grand on a tv and have to change the bulb every six months?

Is JVC out there??? Please slap this guy.

ok on bestbuy website they have the jvc as model HD567BP6 is that the same tv. Why is bestbuy model different??

ok on bestbuy website they have the jvc as model HD567BP6 is that the same tv. Why is bestbuy model different??

I bought this set from BB in October -- it is the HD56G786. It may be an internal model number because of the included stand.

My sales receipt actually lists it correctly as HD56G786, and of course that's also the model number on the TV and documentation.

-bruce

i am on my second bulb, if it makes it 6 months i will be happy. the first lated about 3. it this bulb blows i have made arrangments with my dealer to swap it out for a $ony A-10 50 incher. i agree every six months is BS.

Yeah that is complete crap.

My bulb just went out. I've had the set since Sept 25. Exactly 3 months and the lamp is out. They show on their site clearly stated 6,000 hours.

We should see if other sets use this lamp. I am thinking Toshiba does because it's a toshiba lamp. Then see how many hours people are getting from those sets.

I am betting I had 450-600 hours on the lamp figuring 90 days with 5-6 hours (and for us thats a high estimate).

It's on the JVC stand with nothing blocking airflow.

Is JVC out there??? Please slap this guy.

:D Too true.

Since reading about all of the premature lamp failures, I feel I'm rapidly approaching the twilight zone. Bought the JVC in October and have almost 600 hours on it.

Guess I need to start practicing my tough guy - take no prisoner CSR voice.

-bruce

My lamp just burned out, and just this morning, I checked the time on the bulb and it came up with 1049. Today I noticed that it was a little darker than yesterday, and adjusting the brightness didn't do anything, so I figured the lamp was on it's way out. Then, after only about 6 hours later, the bulp popped and the power light started blinking. Checked the bulb, and it's toast.. I've got the Best Buy service plan, but if JVC will overnight me a lamp, it might be better to try them first.

What's the number that people have been calling that gets the best results?

Yeah that is complete crap.

My bulb just went out. I've had the set since Sept 25. Exactly 3 months and the lamp is out. They show on their site clearly stated 6,000 hours.

We should see if other sets use this lamp. I am thinking Toshiba does because it's a toshiba lamp. Then see how many hours people are getting from those sets.

I am betting I had 450-600 hours on the lamp figuring 90 days with 5-6 hours (and for us thats a high estimate).

It's on the JVC stand with nothing blocking airflow.

Whelp. I went with both since there seems to be a consensus about warehouse shortages etc. Because of the timing, BB won't be able to come out and replace the lamp until Thursday, and JVC will be shipping one out probably on Tuesday. Calling the JVC Customer Care number (800-252-5722) seemed to run me in circles, but after calling the "toll free" number (800-882-2345) and waiting for a representative I got really good service. They took my information, and never once blamed me for the lamp blowing out early.

Hi All.
I noticed my set is getting dimmer and everything is shifting toward a little yellow. I got my set
the end of August. I guess these are signs of the bulb going?
Thanks for any advice.
Zaxdad

One advantage to using the retailer (ext warranty provider) over the mfg is that there often exists a clause stating that if the same repair has to be made 3 times, a full credit is given. One can argue that two bulbs a year constitutes a defect and after watching for a couple of years, replace with better technology for no out of pocket cost.

Just a thought.

Anybody happy with their bulb life?!

Well this just sucks.
I spent a total of about 90 minutes on hold and got someone to agree to send out a new bulb.
10 minutes later my T.V. died. I'm just getting a rapidly flashing pair of leds. So much for new years eve movie watching!
Zaxdad

My girlfriend and I picked up the new JVC yesterday and will have it delivered next Thursday. Hope we can avoid the bulb problems, but we have the service plan (covering the bulbs, too) just in case it is indeed a terminal problem. We certainly loved the picture and the free stand is nice, too.

Just got a call back form JVC this morning. Aparently they got an order of 1000 bulbs yesterday so mine won't get here until a week from Wednesday.

Well this just sucks.
I spent a total of about 90 minutes on hold and got someone to agree to send out a new bulb.
10 minutes later my T.V. died. I'm just getting a rapidly flashing pair of leds. So much for new years eve movie watching!
Zaxdad

Just got a call back form JVC this morning. Aparently they got an order of 1000 bulbs yesterday so mine won't get here until a week from Wednesday.

They should hand us a bag of bulbs with delivery. This is ridiculous.

Gee, I guess none of you people ever had either a slide or 8mm or 16mm movie projector. Or maybe just don't remember them anymore.
Because the number 1 rule was, ALWAYS have a spare bulb on hand!

And any TV or ceiling mount projector that uses a projection type bulb like these do, is gonna blow a bulb sooner or later, just like slide and movie projectors do. Also the hour ratings on these bulbs, are mostly a rating that's for under perfect conditions use. And that's also something that they probably will never see when used in a TV environment, which is why they don't warranty them for any set amount of actual "hours" used. And if you don't think so, just look at the warranty if you buy a new one, because in most cases the warranty is only for 90 days. So even if you buy one as a "spare", by the time you use it, it also will probably be way past it's warranty expiration date. So your are pretty much screwed any way you look at it, if you don't have a service plan that covers bulbs, and if you don't have a spare on hand.

All I remember from movie projectors was film burning. I sat through my dads home movies hoping something would burn out. Seriously, I really expected more than 4 months.
Zaxdad

To me it just seems like the bulb is going to blow with basically little or no warning. It just makes good sense to try and have a spare on hand. I picked one up on Ebay at 25% less than JVC. Hope it works when I need to use it!

Also it seems like most of the problems are coming from the "G" series. I have a "Z" series. What do you guys think?

Opinions

I think this is unacceptable in a consumer product like a TV. Movie and slide projectors used to be pulled out a couple of times a year to bore family members with home movies and photos. This is not how an appliance like a TV is used. It is on 8 or more hours per day, seven days a week and I expect to get pretty much the same service out of my JVC TV as I did all of the other TV's I've owned in the past. I bought a TV, not a movie projector! If JVC has a problem with the bulbs they had better correct it quickly or their reputation will tank and sales along with it. Hey guys, anyone think about using LED as a light source??!!

Having a spare is a seperate issue from premature death. I do remember Dad's 16mm and super 8 projectors blowing bulbs now and again. Would like to think the technology is a little better though than 30 years ago.

Interesting article in USA Today, referring (among other things) about HDTV owners' complaints about standard channels:

http://www.usatoday.com/tech/products/2005-12-29-hdtv-confusion_x.htm

Apparently, the cable companies have heard us and are responding. I think I've noticed better quality on a few of the channels I watch already.

A few weeks ago I noticed ... "smudges" in the top left quadrant and top right quadrant of the TV screen. These smudges take up a 2x3 inch space.

They're difficult to see against darker backgrounds, but pretty easy against light backgrounds.

I've seen a couple other people post with similar problems ... but not sure if we have the same type of "smudges".

Anybody have this problem? Have you found a fix or have you had a good turnaround from JVC support?

Thanks in advance!

What is the part # for the bulb? I would like to start monitoring ebay for a backup..
And what is the best # to call JVC for a bulb? Either of these listed below?
Thanks
Rob

JVC Customer Care number (800-252-5722) seemed to run me in circles, but after calling the "toll free" number (800-882-2345)

I bought a TV, not a movie projector!

No, you pretty much bought a movie projector that operates in place of a TV. This is not just a JVC problem. All the projection based sets have this issue with bulbs.

The part # is ts-cl110u.

No, you pretty much bought a movie projector that operates in place of a TV. This is not just a JVC problem. All the projection based sets have this issue with bulbs.

Technically you're right. However the consumer who buys a TV does so with certain expectations. Eventually the word will get out that these are not TV's, they're projectors with all that that entails, and people will stop buying them, unless the manufactureres do something to convert the projectors into TV's.

Just got a call back form JVC this morning. Aparently they got an order of 1000 bulbs yesterday so mine won't get here until a week from Wednesday.


Had this same problem, while JVC is sending me a new bulb, I searched their local service centers and found one that had bulbs in stock. I had to pay $30 more then the jvc website but I my set was up and running for sunday football and now I will have a reserve bulb when the one they sent gets here.



Joe

Has anyone found that hdmi works better then componet or vise versa? I have a dvd called dve is that like the avia? What do you have your brightness set at in the service menu? i see it goes from 00 to 63 i think and i didnt know if the higher the # the higher the brightness or not.
Also what should i set the color at? i have them all set at 128 right now.

RE: Has anyone found that hdmi works better then componet or vise versa?


Post #2447
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6800187&&#post6800187

Technically you're right. However the consumer who buys a TV does so with certain expectations. Eventually the word will get out that these are not TV's, they're projectors with all that that entails, and people will stop buying them, unless the manufactureres do something to convert the projectors into TV's.

I agree and will add:

To those that have Extended warranties and think you're covered.... at some point the EW people will look at the numbers (I would assume they are doing so now) and
A:Re-write the "fine" print for new customers
B: Amend to existing customers contacts that lamps (and whatever else is dying at a high rate) are "consumables"... and will deny claims on such. (Or make it such a hassle to make a claim I.E. "The run-around"... that most people will just buy the part (The lamp).

On the TV vs Projector issue.... I really don't care what is inside the tv. I expect it to WORK for a reasonable amount of time.


PS: For ANYONE who has experienced JVC D-ILA "problems", please take a few monents to post here: http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/2/176314.html

http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=538876#POST538876

PLEASE POST DETAILED INFO... Unless you guys start posting detailed info... We early adopters of the D-ILA sets will be bearing the cost of replacement lamps, and or light engines.

RE: What is the life expectancy of the lamp?
On average it is expected to be approx. 6,000. hours.


On more thought.... I would advise anyone with a D-ILA to head over to the JVC website and SAVE the page that states that the lamp should last, is "rated" for 6,000 hours....it is expected to last approx. 6,000. hours

http://www.jvc.com/support/support.jsp?pageID=1&item=411


I would think that that "page" may dissappear.... You know.. make the "rated" time disappear....

Sort of like those documents that went "missing" for several "years" when Clinton was president... Those same documents showed BACK up in the PRIVATE area of the white house, that only the first family had access to, both Bill and Hillary saying they knew nothing about them, of course.... (Yea, right)

At least in that case the "documents" showed back "up"...

I can see the page with the lamp rating time "maybe" being re-written... I would advise all here to save a copy... in case it is. :-)

RE: What is the life expectancy of the lamp?
On average it is expected to be approx. 6,000. hours.


On more thought.... I would advise anyone with a D-ILA to head over to the JVC website and SAVE the page that states that the lamp should last, is "rated" for 6,000 hours....it is expected to last approx. 6,000. hours

http://www.jvc.com/support/support.jsp?pageID=1&item=411


I would think that that "page" may dissappear.... You know.. make the "rated" time disappear....

I don't know if the page will disappear or not. But remember, they can always say that the "6,000 hours" figure, only applies under ideal conditions, and in fact in some cases it can or may be substantially less. Which in fact it most likely does somewhere if they have some kind of fine print about it hidden anywhere. And which is probably also why when they sell you a replacement bulb, it usually only comes with a 90 day warranty, which even if it were on for a full 24 hours per day it would = 2160 hours. Funny how that it just so happens to also work out to a LOT less than 6,000 hours, when you have to pay for a bulb.

The makers of the TV's may not want to admit to it. But I'd just about bet, that the bulb manufactures likely know that they will not last that long under such use for in something like a TV environment, where there is the potential for it is being turned on and off a lot. Even though consumers think this is considered normal use for a TV, for something like a projection type bulb it really is not.

In reality there are probably only two possible solutions for this in the near future. Either some form of new bulb design (and no I don't think it will be LED's, at least not in the near future) Or if the price of the bulbs were to come down to somewhere maybe into the $50+ range, instead of the $250-$300 they are now, and if they could get them to last, at least 5-6 months. Which would probably satisfy a lot of people.

Well, good luck all on your JVC, I finally gave up on mine (bad light engine and bad lamp) after about 6 weeks of average use. No response from JVC light engine still on back order
and now the lamp fails......JVC customer service has to be the worst, thet seem to be in denial of the problems with both the light engine and lamps....

In reality there are probably only two possible solutions for this in the near future. Either some form of new bulb design (and no I don't think it will be LED's, at least not in the near future) Or if the price of the bulbs were to come down to somewhere maybe into the $50+ range, instead of the $250-$300 they are now, and if they could get them to last, at least 5-6 months. Which would probably satisfy a lot of people.

An LED bulb would be the ideal solution. No heat, no fans, low power consumption, and it would easily last the life of the set. They were advertising LED flashlights prior to Christmas and were saying that they were much brighter than a regular flashlight. Looked pretty good to me. I don't know if they have pushed the technology to the point where they can produce enough light for our JVC sets, but the possibility is intriguing. I heartily agree with you on price. That would be an acceptable solution. Big discounts (as in JVC's cost) where bulbs don't make it past 6000 hours.

I don't think the technology is quite there yet. I have a Surefire L5 (http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main/co_disp/displ/prrfnbr/1138/sesent/00). A $189.00 MSRP flashlight. It's a finely crafted device and rated at 65 lumens. 65 lumens in a focused beam is bright as #$@%. If I was shining it in your eyes, you would quickly get pissed. It's a mini-spotlight. I don't know what the output of the bulb in our sets is but I assume it's much brighter. More than 10 times brighter I'm guessing. I think there is also an issue with the color of the light that LEDs put out. I don't think LED will be hitting the market at a reasonable price anytime soon.

I got a set of LED outdoor lights this Christmas and their power consumption was so ridiculously low that I just left them on the whole time. They're virtually indistructable as well. If I was JVC I would sure be looking at LED as a solution.

I don't think the technology is quite there yet. I have a Surefire L5 (http://www.surefire.com/maxexp/main/co_disp/displ/prrfnbr/1138/sesent/00). A $189.00 MSRP flashlight. It's a finely crafted device and rated at 65 lumens. 65 lumens in a focused beam is bright as #$@%. If I was shining it in your eyes, you would quickly get pissed. It's a mini-spotlight. I don't know what the output of the bulb in our sets is but I assume it's much brighter. More than 10 times brighter I'm guessing. I think there is also an issue with the color of the light that LEDs put out. I don't think LED will be hitting the market at a reasonable price anytime soon.

All correct.

The bulbs used in projectors are 100 Watts or more and put out about 1000 Lumens. Your flashlight LED puts out 65 Lumens while dissapating 5 Watts. And you can't gang together multiple LEDs because the spot size would be much too large for a projector.

A few links:
http://www.infocus.com/service/lp130/specifications.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

http://www.ledsmagazine.com/articles/features/2/1/15/1

http://lists.meer.net/pipermail/junk-l/2005-August/000208.html

My lamp just died after 741 hours. I called JVC to get a replacement bulb. They're shipping one out. I had no problems with getting them to replace it. I also asked the support engineer if any steps were being taken to fix the lamp issue.

His response - -

"We are aware of the lamp problem and are taking steps to resolve the issue. We do not manufacture the lamp so it is difficult to determine the problem. We will hopefully have the problem resolved by the time your set goes out of warranty (April 2006). Just call back if this lamp dies and we'll replace it w/out cost to you (while in warranty)".

Take it for what's it worth...

If JVC doesn't fix the bulb issue, I will have a lot of regret in purchasing this TV.

I'm not wanting a yearly cost of five hundred to keep the TV running....

But, it is absolutely gorgeous when it is running..... However, not worth the money if I have to replace the bulb every 741 hours...

Number called: 800.858.6442 option: 7

It took about 20 minutes to finally get someone.

This question is for everyone who has had a bulb burn out. When did you purchase your TV? How long in months of use and bulb use hours before the bulb burned out? How many times a day is your TV turned on and off? I want to get a feel for how long a bulb will last I know JVC has said 6,000 hours but I think that is BS. From what I have read here it looks like people are only getting 500 to a 1,000 hours use out of a bulb.

How do I find out the number of hours my lamp has been in use? I have the 52g786 unit. With all this talk about bulb blowing and darkening picture, I'm now convinced that my set, too, is starting to darken and soon the lamp will go.

Quoted from page 82 this forum.

This is how you read the bulb hours. On your remote first push sleep, then push display and video status at the same time. then select 4 (even thought not on the screen) Navigate to D070, read the left most three digits. use this number *256, navigate to D071, read the left most three digits, add to first number. = total hours. i.e. D070=002 and D071=060 then total hours = (2*256)+(60)=572. :confused:

My picture is significantly darker. 3 months and <1000 hours.

How long till bulb blows?

My bulb went about 4-5 hours after I noticed it was getting darker. I'm supposed to be getting mine today. Here's hoping.
zaxdad

Got my bulb. Looks great. Amazing how much brighter it is. I guess you just don't notice because of how gradual the wear is.
Zaxdad

My picture is significantly darker. 3 months and <1000 hours.

How long till bulb blows?

minutes

On hold with JVC. TV is even darker today...

Every 20 seconds I have to hear the same recording telling me that all operators are busy. Talk about annoying!

All those people ordering bulbs

I got off the phone with JVC and they are sending me out a replacement bulb for my soon-to-be-blown lamp. I have not been able to find out from the instructions above how many hours the current lamp has logged but I have had this HDTV since late October (2.5 months) and to have to replace the lamp now is saddening. Am I going to have to call JVC up again at the end of March for replacement #2, mid-June for replacement #3 and September for replacement #4???? : :(

Gotta love this one. A "tech" has to call me back. Rep wcan't just send the bulb. Tech is gone for the day. I work nights, odd and long hours.

First thing rep said was that I could return the TV to the store I bought it from. When I asked why I couldn't just replace the bulb, she said that's an option too. Is she clueless? sounds like there's more going on than I'm being told. Was looking forward to the Pats/Jaguars on Saturday night. Now I'll be watching on my 10 year old Zenith analog.

BLAH!

*edit* My first 52g886 was delivered defective and swapped out for this one. Replacing lamps every three months is bad enough. How about replacing the whole TV???

My son asked if we could hook up his XBox to my JVC. Does that put any more stress on the TV or bulb?
Thanks,
Zaxdad

My son asked if we could hook up his XBox to my JVC. Does that put any more stress on the TV or bulb?

No, it would not be anymore stress than just watching a DVD or anything else, for the same amount of hours that the video game is played. The bulb and TV don't care if it's normal or HD TV program, DVD or a Xbox making the video signal, it's all the same to the bulb and TV.