My son asked if we could hook up his XBox to my JVC. Does that put any more stress on the TV or bulb?
Thanks,
Zaxdad

NO, it will not stress the tv to hook an X-Box up to it....

But wouldn't your son look better out there in the yard with a rake in his hand for a couple of hours each day, instead of playing games on the tv?

Here's an idea.... After he gets thru raking the lawn, cleaning and waxing your car, getting up on the roof and cleaning the gutters out, etc... How about getting him outside, just to play "real" baseball, football, etc instead of spending hour after hour sitting on the couch, drinking soda's, eattng pizza, etc? :-)

I look at todays youth.... and alot of them are WAYYY overweight... (From sitting in front of a tv playing virtual games)

Today we have 13 year olds that weigh 300lbs... Parents can't fiqure how how "Johnny" got so big. (LOL)

OK! Who changed it to the to Supernanny channel here???? :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Dang, all these bulbs goin. the $ony a-10 50 incher is looking better everyday. i might just get up with my dealer to reinforce his word on swapping it out. sucks too, these jvc sets are hard to beat. question though are the G's more prone than Z's about blowing the bulbs. I have a Z, but it seems the G's have it more.

56g786 since 10/10/2005 on & off once a day 2-10 hours at 334 hours & still ok...

All correct.

The bulbs used in projectors are 100 Watts or more and put out about 1000 Lumens. Your flashlight LED puts out 65 Lumens while dissapating 5 Watts. And you can't gang together multiple LEDs because the spot size would be much too large for a projector.

A few links:
http://www.infocus.com/service/lp130/specifications.asp?site_lang=1&site_region=1&

http://www.ledsmagazine.com/articles/features/2/1/15/1

http://lists.meer.net/pipermail/junk-l/2005-August/000208.html

SAMSUNG LAUNCHES WORLD’S FIRST LED LIGHT SOURCED DLP REAR PROJECTION HDTV
http://www.hwhpr.com/pr/samsung/CES06/led_dlp.html

cool link to sammy set, digg.

SAMSUNG LAUNCHES WORLD’S FIRST LED LIGHT SOURCED DLP REAR PROJECTION HDTV
http://www.hwhpr.com/pr/samsung/CES06/led_dlp.html

Ahah!! JVC get on it! Shouldn't be hard to take that technology and put it in a package that would fit in our sets. And while he's at it the technician could disable the cooling fan.

Thanx for the bulb part # Zaxdad. My set started getting darker a few days ago and tonite: POP! Blinking blue light and pitch black.

DOP: aug 2005

part# ts-cl110u

Ahah!! JVC get on it! Shouldn't be hard to take that technology and put it in a package that would fit in our sets. And while he's at it the technician could disable the cooling fan.
Ummm, it's not just the Samsung DLP's that will have this. HP has now announced it also.

http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/newsroom/press_kits/2006/ces/ma_entertainment.pdf

But just because it's something that will work with the new DLP technology, it does not also mean that it's something that can be adapted to work with the current JVC DILA technology. And also highly unlikely if they do come up with something similar, that would something that could be "retrofitted" to the current and existing models

Thanx for the bulb part # Zaxdad. My set started getting darker a few days ago and tonite: POP! Blinking blue light and pitch black.

DOP: aug 2005

part# ts-cl110u


Replying to my own post and the person who asked is Z's were more reliable.

Mine is a HD61Z786 ~ bulb is ghandi.

I'm gona miss 'my name earl'. not a good show but I can't turn it off.
Nuthin to do but pour a drink and cruze the internut.
Rob

--to amuse the masses. beam n coke.

One more thing, When talking to JVC on the phone does it help to say I bought it within 90days of today? [if they send you a bulb to replace yourself]

They have no way of checking do they?
Rob

56g786 since 10/10/2005 on & off once a day 2-10 hours at 334 hours & still ok...

You have one month to darkness...

Thanx for the bulb part # Zaxdad. My set started getting darker a few days ago and tonite: POP! Blinking blue light and pitch black.

DOP: aug 2005

part# ts-cl110u


Replying to my own post and the person who asked is Z's were more reliable.

Mine is a HD61Z786 ~ bulb is ghandi.

I'm gona miss 'my name earl'. not a good show but I can't turn it off.
Nuthin to do but pour a drink and cruze the internut.
Rob

--to amuse the masses. beam n coke.

Well, I have the HD61Z786 purchased in June 2005 with over 1200 hrs, no bulb issue yet, knock on wood.

I finally was able to do the # of hours check and, not suprisingly, the current bulb has lived for 414+ hours. My set is super dark now and wifey and I are discussing what to do this weekend. Our only other TV is in the bedroom and while bedroom antics might come to some of you guys' minds, I have to remind you that wifey is 8 months preggers.

Anyways, with all this talk nowadays about bulbs going Elvis, I am starting to become super depressed about my purchase. I paid nearly $2K for this set and once my 1 year JVC warranty and my 3 year (2 bulb max) extended warranty ends, I don't like the idea that I'll have to spend nearly $1K per year to replace bulbs. According to JVC and calculating my family's viewing habits, I should replace bulbs once every 36 months....not every 2.5 months

Does the lemon rule of TVs (3 warranty instances in 1st year or whatever) apply to blown bulbs?

Looks like I was wrong about LED bulbs. Great links, thanks.

I finally was able to do the # of hours check and, not suprisingly, the current bulb has lived for 414+ hours. My set is super dark now and wifey and I are discussing what to do this weekend. Our only other TV is in the bedroom and while bedroom antics might come to some of you guys' minds, I have to remind you that wifey is 8 months preggers.

Anyways, with all this talk nowadays about bulbs going Elvis, I am starting to become super depressed about my purchase. I paid nearly $2K for this set and once my 1 year JVC warranty and my 3 year (2 bulb max) extended warranty ends, I don't like the idea that I'll have to spend nearly $1K per year to replace bulbs. According to JVC and calculating my family's viewing habits, I should replace bulbs once every 36 months....not every 2.5 months

Does the lemon rule of TVs (3 warranty instances in 1st year or whatever) apply to blown bulbs?

I have the 3 year JVC EW for the 56G886, in my Certificate of Coverage I did not see any limitation on bulb replacements. Did you buy your EW from JVC or someplace else?

Sorry about your bulb going dark. How long before your new bulb is shipped ?

;)

I have the 3 year JVC EW for the 56G886, in my Certificate of Coverage I did not see any limitation on bulb replacements. Did you buy your EW from JVC or someplace else?

Sorry about your bulb going dark. How long before your new bulb is shipped ?

;)

I bought the TV from TV Authority and went through Repair Master for the EW. In the EW, it states that it covers no more than 2 bulb replacements.

I expect the bulb to be shipped today and given the weekend, I should receive it Tuesday.

Looks like I was wrong about LED bulbs. Great links, thanks.
Actually if you read closer, in the Samsung release. They also say they are LED lasers, and not just LED's.

http://www.hwhpr.com/pr/samsung/CES06/led_dlp.html

"Red, green and blue laser LEDs sequentially fire to produce smooth,"

So I don't think they are anywhere near the same type as used in flashlights, even though I do agree those flashlights are very bright. But the one I have, also needs 16 LED's in order to do so.




Also they say they have a "half life" of 20,000 hours.

"The “LumiLit” light engine ensures a longer lamp life (20,000 hours without brightness degradation)"

Which is less than the 60,000 hour "half life", of what most newer plasma sets are rated at.

Well, almost 24 hours and no call back from JVC. I called the tech person's number and left a message on voice mail. How satisfying!

3 months old and going through this bull#$%^!?!?!?

Hello Sony!

This is not just a JVC problem. All the projection based sets have this issue with bulbs.

I'll vouch for this. My BIL had two bulbs and a light engine go in his Sony RP-LCD set within 12 month. He watches relatively little TV, so the bulbs had very few hours on them. It's not confined to JVC at all. So, it's not as simple as switching brands.

For the person who asked about impressions, I've had my 61z for four months now. It has a fantastic picture, and many people complimented the picture over the holidays, particularly when showing football games in HD. I'm very happy about the set, overall. My only gripe is the fan noise, which is bothersome at some times during quiet passages.

I'm just keeping my fingers crossed about reliability and bulb life.

thetimmer99,

I hear JVC is changing bulb supplier and the new supplier and bulb design will be much better, i.e. longer lasting.

With the bulbs dying during the first year, and the possibility that the light engine might go too, EW is looking to be a pretty smart investment from your part. The light engine is reportedly costing about $1500 plus labor.

Frankly, if anything really bad besides bulbs happens, my intent is to get rid of this set.

;)

I hear JVC is changing bulb supplier and the new supplier and bulb design will be much better, i.e. longer lasting.


Chanc, where did you hear this? I was going to order a spare bulb this weekend. If your source is credible, I might hold off.

Chanc, where did you hear this? I was going to order a spare bulb this weekend. If your source is credible, I might hold off.

Jeff, I had a problem with the HDMI connection on the JVC so I called JVC customer service which refers me to a Hamden, CT JVC authorized service center.

The tech I spoke to, told me about the bulb when asked. I do not know how reliable his info is. I tend to believe him as there is a real problem with the present bulb. I would think that you can call JVC directly and they would tell you.

I know that sooner or later I will need a new bulb, so I would want it to last a lot longer than the one which came with the set.

;)

thetimmer99,

I hear JVC is changing bulb supplier and the new supplier and bulb design will be much better, i.e. longer lasting.

Don't bet on it. Just look up the "Sony Buzz" thread. About a year, ago Sony had the same problems with bulbs going out, and they did the same thing, by saying that a new supplier/brand was going to fix the problem, and it did not. In fact I think they went from Phillips bulbs to the "fix" of suppling people with Osram bulbs which still did it, and then back to suppling Phillips bulbs again. Then they changed something in the driver board that powers the bulb, and that also did not seem to fix it at first, but slowly the reports/complaints of bulbs going out simmered down and started to decline.

Thanks for the follow up info Chanc.

Tech called back today and will send a bulb out on Monday. Why couldn't the rep do this on my initial call? Anyway, he says this "batch" is lasting longer and hopefully should be more around the year+ area. He said they are working to correct it with the manufacturer.

In case anybody needs to order a bulb.......

I called 800.858.6442 option: 7 and got a rep on the line in about 5-10min.
He was in TX. Told him I heard a pop and the screen went dark.

After asking me when i bought the set, Said they ship me another bulb.
Although I'm only about 40min from their Cypress CA svc center ~ He said the bulbs come from Jersey. He said standard delivery was 5days, He offered free overnight delivery after I asked him to expedite.

At least it will be here in time for the SeaHawks game.

Now, How do you check the hours on the bulb?
Rob

I wonder what would help the bulbs last longer? What kills a bulb?
Heat, surges, on/off cycles? Maybe if jvc could extend the cool down period...

Searching the forum, It seems the other projector sets have bulbs going out quickly too.. [sony/panny]

Also, I found this post on extending bulb life on the 'digital projectors' thread.

--------
For times when you won't be watching but expect to come back to your projector later. Some really hard to dispute guidelines would be:

less than 30 minutes away - leave it on.
more than 2 hours away - turn it off.
30 mins to 2 hours - gray area.

My personal rule of thumb which is more disputable.

90 minutes or less - leave it on.
90 minutes or more - turn it off.

My sources for this guidline varry from Bob Williams to Sim2 readings to personal experience to tech manuals. There's no perfect rule but the above is a good start.

Another way to look at it is your bulb would probably last twice as long as the stated time if you NEVER turned it on and off - so a 2000 hour bulb would actually last 4000 hours under non-stop conditions. Now take off about 1.5 hours of life everytime you cycle power on your bulb. So if you cycle the power once a day time and watched 3 hours a day, after about 2 years of viewing you would lose 2000 hours worth of actual bulb time and 2000 equvilant hours just coming from turning on and off so your 4000 inflated hours would be down to zero.

Something like that.

My set has never experienced a power loss. It was never turned on less than 2 hours after being turned off, and usually more than 10 hour lapse. Average time on around 8 hours. Bulb still went in three months.

While precautions help, these bulbs are not up to spec.

Will take the same precautions as always on the replacement.

hdmi or component being better is up to the old eyeballs. i prefer my HD over hdmi, but my SD is better via component. dve is comparable to avia, i prefer dve but like avias ease of use. the color you speak of ,if it is the rgb drive settings, can only be adjusted via a grayscale cali. you can eyeball it though through trial and error. i dont recall making any brightness adjustments in the service menu on my set anyways.

Hello everyone--I just purchased the JVC 61" and while I am iN LOVE with the HD channels, HDMI so far doesn't seem to be better than component. In fact, I had the HDMI hooked up to the TV, and I get a light picture TV "hiccup" while changing channels--I moved the HDMI to my Samsung HD850 DVD player, and it does the same thing! nyone know why this happens?

Also, I use the Pace HD box from BHC and while the 720P channels look AWESOME--1080i channels stink! Is this because the TV naturaLLY OUTPUTS AT 720p? (I'm a newbie--please take it easy on me if these questions sem sorta
stupid!)

I believe the natural 720p channels look better since they have no conversion to do.

I've been loving my 56" G786 for the week that I've had it so far. HD looks great and my concert DVDs now look as good as they sound. We have component cables hooked up to the HD box, but I was looking to go to a HDMI connection when I get home next week. If some people aren't seeing a difference (or SD ends up looking worse), maybe I'll hold off on that for now.

Hello everyone--I just purchased the JVC 61" and while I am iN LOVE with the HD channels, HDMI so far doesn't seem to be better than component. In fact, I had the HDMI hooked up to the TV, and I get a light picture TV "hiccup" while changing channels--I moved the HDMI to my Samsung HD850 DVD player, and it does the same thing! nyone know why this happens?

Also, I use the Pace HD box from BHC and while the 720P channels look AWESOME--1080i channels stink! Is this because the TV naturaLLY OUTPUTS AT 720p? (I'm a newbie--please take it easy on me if these questions sem sorta
stupid!)

Does the box allow a "pass through" for HD? sounds like it's scaling to 720p than feeding to set. I had this same issue with the moto 6412. I was forced to choose either 1080i or 720p and let the box do all the scaling. the TV has a better scaler. Try pass through or native or something along those lines if possible for HD.

Tech called back today and will send a bulb out on Monday. Why couldn't the rep do this on my initial call? Anyway, he says this "batch" is lasting longer and hopefully should be more around the year+ area. He said they are working to correct it with the manufacturer.

chaz01,

I wonder if you would note and post the P/N of the bulbs both original and new. I believe they have different P/N. Hopefully the new bulbs will be longer lasting.

I want to order the right P/N.

Thanks,


:)

My bulb is dead. Long live the bulb (NOT!) Approx. 450 hours and it's a goner just an hour ago. Luckly, I was proactive on Thursday and able to get JVC to send me out a new one to arrive here by Tuesday.

I just don't like the idea of having to replace bulbs every 2-3 months. 7.5% of expected lifespan in a bulb is flat out deception and if this continues during my warranty period, I will demand a refund.

We have component cables hooked up to the HD box, but I was looking to go to a HDMI connection when I get home next week. If some people aren't seeing a difference (or SD ends up looking worse), maybe I'll hold off on that for now.

I'm with Rogers Cable in Canada and have my JVC hooked up to an SA8300 STB for high definition and standard definintion broadcasts. I have used both a component hookup and HDMI and prefer HDMI. With component cables I saw a fair amount of digital artifacting during fast moving scenes, but with the HDMI cable hookup this has been significantly reduced if not totally eliminated. I see no difference between component and HDMI for standard def broadcasts. Rogers' feed is completely digital by the way. I'm guessing that the difference with HDMI is the fact that the STB does not have to convert the digital signal to analogue for the component cable and then the TV convert the signal back to digital for display. The digital feed as received by the STB is sent directly to the TV over the HDMI cable and is sent directly to the display without any conversion by the set. Less processing = faster display.

chaz01,

I wonder if you would note and post the P/N of the bulbs both original and new. I believe they have different P/N. Hopefully the new bulbs will be longer lasting.

I want to order the right P/N.

Thanks,


:)

ok

Thanks for the info, Jakles. I'll go ahead and pick up the HDMI cable tonight. I was surprised to hear that some felt the component looked better, but I guess my own eyes will tell the tale. What you say makes complete sense though.

In increasing general heat in the house, my screen goes green intermittently. JVC said I had to call a local repair shop to take care of it. It took me 3 weeks to get a tech into my house to see a demonstration of the problem to tell me what I already knew: The light engine is going. Now a replacement has been "on order" for 3 weeks now (for a total of 6). I can't watch my TV for longer than 30 minutes without it going green. How do I get around these slow warranty service providers? Is there another route I can take?

F'ing JVC!!! On a hunch, I called JVC just now to see/confirm that my replacement bulb would be arriving tomorrow and they told me that TODAY it'll be shipping. Last Thursday, when I originally called, they said they had bulbs but TODAY they say that they didn't then so NOW they're telling me 2-day from San Diego and instead of tomorrow it'll be Wednesday.

$50 says that when I call tomorrow to confirm shipment and get tracking information they tell me otherwise.

In case anybody needs to order a bulb.......

I called 800.858.6442 option: 7 and got a rep on the line in about 5-10min.
He was in TX. Told him I heard a pop and the screen went dark.

After asking me when i bought the set, Said they ship me another bulb.
Although I'm only about 40min from their Cypress CA svc center ~ He said the bulbs come from Jersey. He said standard delivery was 5days, He offered free overnight delivery after I asked him to expedite.

At least it will be here in time for the SeaHawks game.

Now, How do you check the hours on the bulb?
Rob

I have had my tv for almost 3 months now without problems but I am starting to think I should just call JVC and tell them it popped before it actually does. I guess they don't care to send someone out to check it first?

I told JVC first on Thursday that my picture is starting to go real dark and (at the time) they said that they will get a bulb out to me right away. I had though (at the time) that I was being proactive thinking that I would be see no disconnection in HDTV service by replacing a near-dead bulb with a new one. Little did I know that my bulb would actually die as I trusted JVC to not lie to me and actually ship a bulb last week. This keeps up and I'll be demanding a refund.

I say, go ahead, tell them it's going dark and see what they have to say. If they say they're shipping it today, call back tomorrow and confirm.

I have had my tv for almost 3 months now without problems but I am starting to think I should just call JVC and tell them it popped before it actually does. I guess they don't care to send someone out to check it first?


I would, Of course I'll have to wait at least 3 months before I request another.
I would definately do it before the 1year warranty ran out.


Friday they told me the bulbs are coming from Jersey. Thursday they told the timmer99 it's coming from san diego??? I'm in socal, Diego would have been a better choice, If they had it in stock.

My bulb finally blew right after turning the set on. Went from dark to barely visible, to flashing lights and no pic. Couldn't shut TV off and had to pull the plug. Expecting new lamp this week. will post part number as requested.

where were these rash of bulb problem posts back in October when I was deciding on a TV. If I read the last 3 pages on this thread back then, I'd be on the Sony A50 thread bitching about bulbs and black levels there. :p

well, I got good news and I got bad news. the good news is that my bulb is en route. the bad news is that it won't arrive until Thursday. Let's look back at the chronology, shall we:

Thursday Jan 5th, I call JVC in the evening and say my picture is darkening and that my bulb will likely die any day now. JVC tells me that they'll ship me a new bulb right away but since it's the evening, they can ship it until Friday the 6th and since it's 2 day shipping and the weekend, I should get it on Tuesday the 10th.

Monday the 9th, I call JVC to confirm shipment and JVC tells me that the bulb wasn't ordered back then and that they'll ship a bulb 'today' with delivery for Wednesday. I complain a little but the customer rep didn't seem to care. Delivery Wednesday. I even called back an hour later and they said it was ordered.

Tuesday the 10th, I call JVC to confirm shipment and it was confirmed. Got a FedEx # and everything. While on the phone, i enter the number and see it was shipped....TODAY....with a delivery for Thursday the 12th.

I.hate.this.

I think it's hit or miss. Even though they said that there was 1000 shipped and a bunch of orders before mine, I still got mine last Thursday. That was 2-3 days after they were supposed to come back from vacation and about a week before I was expecting it. I think the trick is to call during the day when whoever it is that is allowed to put in orders is there. I guess I lucked out, because they came in on a Saturday, got the note the rep from the night before left, and called me back to confirm the order.

well, I got good news and I got bad news. the good news is that my bulb is en route. the bad news is that it won't arrive until Thursday. Let's look back at the chronology, shall we:

Thursday Jan 5th, I call JVC in the evening and say my picture is darkening and that my bulb will likely die any day now. JVC tells me that they'll ship me a new bulb right away but since it's the evening, they can ship it until Friday the 6th and since it's 2 day shipping and the weekend, I should get it on Tuesday the 10th.
Monday the 9th, I call JVC to confirm shipment and JVC tells me that the bulb wasn't ordered back then and that they'll ship a bulb 'today' with delivery for Wednesday. I complain a little but the customer rep didn't seem to care. Delivery Wednesday. I even called back an hour later and they said it was ordered.
Tuesday the 10th, I call JVC to confirm shipment and it was confirmed. Got a FedEx # and everything. While on the phone, i enter the number and see it was shipped....TODAY....with
a delivery for Thursday the 12th.

I.hate.this.

Just received my new bulb, Ordered it on friday.
Shipped from Sa Diego.

It is part# TS-CL110U
And surprise, There's a form to fill out and ship back the old one.
[something the rep didn't tell me]

I guess we shouldn't be asking for bulbs before they blow.
Rob

Thanks for the tip. We'll see if everyone else gets that form in the future.
I have 800 hours on my 56G and still nervously waiting for the "brownout".
esteps


Just received my new bulb, Ordered it on friday.
Shipped from Sa Diego.

It is part# TS-CL110U
And surprise, There's a form to fill out and ship back the old one.
[something the rep didn't tell me]

I guess we shouldn't be asking for bulbs before they blow.
Rob

Thanks for the tip. We'll see if everyone else gets that form in the future.
I have 800 hours on my 56G and still nervously waiting for the "brownout".
esteps

I'll double check tonight, but when I looked in my box, all I recall seeing was the instruction manual on how to replace the bulb. I remember someone else mentioning a form and an envelope to send back, and when I looked I didn't find them.

Just curious, are they (JVC) requesting a credit card at the time of shipping the replacement bulb? If not, then wether the defective bulb is returned or not would not really make any difference.

If not, then wether the defective bulb is returned or not would not really make any difference.

Well it might make a difference to them, if they want to inspect the bulbs in order to try determine how to make them last longer. And to try and eliminate sending bulbs to people that did not really need them. If enough people abuse requesting new bulbs, sooner or later they may change the way you can go about getting one.

Well it might make a difference to them, if they want to inspect the bulbs in order to try determine how to make them last longer. And to try and eliminate sending bulbs to people that did not really need them. If enough people abuse requesting new bulbs, sooner or later they may change the way you can go about getting one.

The bulbs contain elements which makes throwing them in the trash a bad idea. They may be required by law to provide a way for consumers to return the bad bulbs to them.

I sent mine back on a prepaid FEDEX label. It was addressed to the Quality Control Department. I hope they can do some investigation and find a fix. Mine was not blown, however, was very dark and had a giant wart on the side of the tube. Posted a picture on page 82 12/27 this form.

Any JVC 720P owners expiriencing a yellowish tint while in the Theater Pro mode? I have this on when engaging the Theater Pro mode on 1080p set.

The bulbs contain elements which makes throwing them in the trash a bad idea. They may be required by law to provide a way for consumers to return the bad bulbs to them.

If that were the case, you would also get a free return shipping label with almost any type of replacement battery you buy. But about all they ever really tell you, is about battery drop off places for proper disposal. There are lot of battery types that pose a greater landfill risk than most bulbs do. I'd guess that they are actually looking at some of them to try and determine why they failed, and also trying to figure out a way on how to cut down on sending people bulbs that they did not need.

Double checked my replacement from JVC and there's no packing envelope or anything mentioning that I should send the old one back. Might it have to do with how old the TV is (in my case it was Mfg in June 05)?

[QUOTE=nikknightt]It is part# TS-CL110U
And surprise, There's a form to fill out and ship back the old one.
[something the rep didn't tell me]/QUOTE]


The form comes with a fedex shipping label that goes to 'mcallen TX'.
The form says 'for QA purposes, please fill out the form and return it with your old bulb. It asks when you bought your tv, when the bulb blew, and what the model & serial # is. Also, It asks if the lamp had a red sticker ..... Wonder what that is?

Furthermore, The packing slip says- The bulb part # is TS-CL110UAA.
But the box says TS-CL110U.

The bulb has a list price of $199.00 extended price is $162.00
Down by the total it says "this is not a final invoice $0.00 is due"

I'll have to call the svc center and see if they need the old one back. They didn't ask for any credit card # or anything, Just my shipping address.

The forms are probably in the box already for 'normal' replacements. Not the 'problem' replacements people claim they are doing for us..
Rob

Here is a weird one for all of you.

I have had a 61Z786 for around 6 months now and I love it. However, tonight when I put a DVD in my player to watch it, I got a grey box covering the middle lower half of the screen. At first I thought my DVD player had died, because all my other devices (HD-TiVO via HDMI and XBOX via Component) work fine. I switched out the DVD player with an older one I had laying around and got the same problem, I tried switching input channels (from 1 to 2 and then 3) same problem, I also switched input types from component to SVIDEO and then to composite and all three cause the same problem. The two DVD units I hooked up where the JVC DR-MV1S and a Cyberhome CH-DVD 300. As a last ditch, I tried unplugging the set for about 30 minutes and then plugged it back in, no luck!

It just seems like my DILA does not want me to watch DVDs!

Thanks for any help.

Alan

I hope you tried another dvd....


Can somebody repost how to find your lamps hours? I can't find it and i want to check before resetting my timer. [the new install was a breeze]

thx
Rob

I hope you tried another dvd....


Can somebody repost how to find your lamps hours? I can't find it and i want to check before resetting my timer. [the new install was a breeze]

thx
Rob

Search thread for "bulb" and "lamp. It's out here.

How's the new one look (hoping mine arrives tomorrow)?

This thread should be renamed to "===>>The Official JVC - DILA Bulb Replacement thread<<==="

My bulb left San Diego Tuesday night with an expected delivery still set for Thursday afternoon.

From the64gto:
This is how you read the bulb hours. On your remote first push sleep, then push display and video status at the same time. then select 4 (even thought not on the screen) Navigate to D070, read the left most three digits. use this number *256, navigate to D071, read the left most three digits, add to first number. = total hours. i.e. D070=002 and D071=060 then total hours = (2*256)+(60)=572.

I hope you tried another dvd....

Rob

Yup, I have tried it with 4 different DVD's now. I guess I will need to get a support tech to look at it. I just don't understand what could be causing it. I also forgot to mention that if you go into any of the menus, the box goes away until the menu fades out, then it comes back. It kind of looks like an solid background for a menu, but there is nothing in it.

Alan

Yup, I have tried it with 4 different DVD's now. I guess I will need to get a support tech to look at it. I just don't understand what could be causing it. I also forgot to mention that if you go into any of the menus, the box goes away until the menu fades out, then it comes back. It kind of looks like an solid background for a menu, but there is nothing in it.

Alan

It's not the Closed Caption box is it?

It's not the Closed Caption box is it?


I was thinking that it might be, but I have 2 questions about that. First I do not see any way to just turn it off in the menus, only a way to change what type of CC it is. Second, why do I only see it with the DVD and not with the Off Air antena or the HD TiVO? The manual says that if you see a box covering 80% of the screen to turn off close captioning, but it is not very clear on how to actually turn it off.

I just got a new JVC 52G786. Everything was working fine for a week, including a PC connected via DVI-HDMI. I got a cablecard installed last night, and the HDMI video input is acting funny -- it looks fine for like 3 sec, then it looks like it starts cycling through different aspect ratios and zooms and glitching in and out. I think my TV may have had its firmware changed, because after the cable card install, it asked me to set a clock, and now after any channel or input change, after two sec it shows the time (annoying!). This happens even with the cablecard taken out. Man, at least the HD PQ is outstanding.

So, do other others have this delayed clock 'feature'? When did you get your set, do you have a cablecard? If you have a cablecard/clock, is your HDMI working? Does anyone know what happened to my new TV?

Thanks for any help.

I was thinking that it might be, but I have 2 questions about that. First I do not see any way to just turn it off in the menus, only a way to change what type of CC it is. Second, why do I only see it with the DVD and not with the Off Air antena or the HD TiVO? The manual says that if you see a box covering 80% of the screen to turn off close captioning, but it is not very clear on how to actually turn it off.

Ok I am an idiot, now that someone else felt that it could be the CC box, I went back and read everything very carefully. The manual says "The closed Caption Text Mode is on. Turn it off in the closed caption menu" I went back to the CC menu where there are two modes Text and Caption. I changed it to Caption and everything looks fine again. Not sure how it got changed to text other than my Father in Law was here over Chrstmas and I left him alone with the remote and the TV. :)

Your problem is sure similar to those with the new 1080p models. Read this thread:
The Official JVC - 1080p HD-ILA - HD-XXFH96 Owners Thread
Thread #743.
Maybe you can try resetting your HDMI (see thread #735).
esteps

I just got a new JVC 52G786. Everything was working fine for a week, including a PC connected via DVI-HDMI. I got a cablecard installed last night, and the HDMI video input is acting funny -- it looks fine for like 3 sec, then it looks like it starts cycling through different aspect ratios and zooms and glitching in and out. I think my TV may have had its firmware changed, because after the cable card install, it asked me to set a clock, and now after any channel or input change, after two sec it shows the time (annoying!). This happens even with the cablecard taken out. Man, at least the HD PQ is outstanding.

So, do other others have this delayed clock 'feature'? When did you get your set, do you have a cablecard? If you have a cablecard/clock, is your HDMI working? Does anyone know what happened to my new TV?

Thanks for any help.

I can still see my desktop periodically, it just looks like it keeps jumping through viewing modes and aspect ratios. For people that have had their HDMI disabled via the sensor trip, did you get an intermittent signal, or did you get the GSOD/black screen?

Also, what is up with the clock?

This thread should be renamed to "===>>The Official JVC - DILA Bulb Replacement thread<<==="




there is plenty of helpful info in this thread beyond bulb problems, though it seems to be a rash of vocal owners right now.

[QUOTE=nikknightt]It is part# TS-CL110U
And surprise, There's a form to fill out and ship back the old one.
[something the rep didn't tell me]/QUOTE]


The form comes with a fedex shipping label that goes to 'mcallen TX'.
The form says 'for QA purposes, please fill out the form and return it with your old bulb. It asks when you bought your tv, when the bulb blew, and what the model & serial # is. Also, It asks if the lamp had a red sticker ..... Wonder what that is?

Furthermore, The packing slip says- The bulb part # is TS-CL110UAA.
But the box says TS-CL110U.

The bulb has a list price of $199.00 extended price is $162.00
Down by the total it says "this is not a final invoice $0.00 is due"

I'll have to call the svc center and see if they need the old one back. They didn't ask for any credit card # or anything, Just my shipping address.

The forms are probably in the box already for 'normal' replacements. Not the 'problem' replacements people claim they are doing for us..
Rob

My part numbers and invoice were the same but no box for returning the old one. I did register my set online with JVC and they have customer service history of my initial defective X86 swap out.

I forgot how bright the pic can be. Looks good. Fingers crossed.

Chaz01

there is plenty of helpful info in this thread beyond bulb problems, though it seems to be a rash of vocal owners right now.

I've had my 52 inch G series for 2 1/2 months and about a thousand hours, with flawless performance so far, so I'm watching this lamp issue with great interest. But it seems to me that what we have is maybe a half-dozen complainers, with who knows how many lurkers saying nothing because their lamps haven't blown. I value very much the people who have had problems sharing them with us, but I see no evidence that early failure is particularly common. The experience with these lamps over the past few years on other models of front and rear projectors appears to be that most work for their promised lives.

I've had my 52 inch G series for 2 1/2 months and about a thousand hours, with flawless performance so far, so I'm watching this lamp issue with great interest. But it seems to me that what we have is maybe a half-dozen complainers, with who knows how many lurkers saying nothing because their lamps haven't blown. I value very much the people who have had problems sharing them with us, but I see no evidence that early failure is particularly common. The experience with these lamps over the past few years on other models of front and rear projectors appears to be that most work for their promised lives.


Of course that assumes all owners know about this forum and that only a few of them report the problem. It's probably true that a very small number of owners actually subscribe to this forum, and of those, a large proportion are reporting a problem. It would be nice if we could get those, like yourself, who have not had a problem so far to tell us their experience so we could get more balance here. I'm around 400 hours right now, and while the bulb is not as bright as it was when I first got the set, it is still very good. Have no fear, when it goes I will report it whether or not the failure was premature.

I can still see my desktop periodically, it just looks like it keeps jumping through viewing modes and aspect ratios. For people that have had their HDMI disabled via the sensor trip, did you get an intermittent signal, or did you get the GSOD/black screen?

Also, what is up with the clock?

try an nvidea video card, they seem to have a better chance of success. my ati aiw x800xt does the same thing.

Hopefully this won't change my luck, but I have had my 52" G since early Sept. No problems, bulb or otherwise. It would help to have a broader cross-section of owners report here, even if they haven't had any problems; it would give everyone a better idea of the prevalence of these problems.


Great TV!!!!!!!!!!

Knock on wood......I bought mine in July 2005, 52G786. No bulb issues, or any issues, so far.

Usually, more people with problems will post than those whose sets are working perfectly.

Have had my 56G886 since Sept 30 and am lovin it. No bulb problems or any other problems for that matter.

To all of those with working bulbs....good luck.
With the help of this forum, I knew what it was as it happened.

Did an hour check on my bad bulb. d070 was 004/ d071 was 039
256*004 = 1024 + 039 = 1063 hours on my bulb.

Purchased around aug 1st 2005. See you in another 5months...
Go Seahawks.
Rob

These threads tend to center around what's currently happening with the sets. By reading, I too was able to know the proper steps towards remedy when pic was becoming dark. Very useful information as I would otherwise have called Sears and have them come in on the EW. Downtime was kept to a minimum of a few days. Who knows how long I'd be waiting for them to show up, place the call, schedule an appointment for the new lamp install, etc. For those not experiencing problems, this topic may sound like complaints. For me, they were very helpful.

JVC has acknowledged there is an issue and working with the lamp mfg on rectifying. This is only done if problem reaches significant proportions.

*edit* Go Pats!

try an nvidea video card, they seem to have a better chance of success. my ati aiw x800xt does the same thing.

My HTPC setup worked flawlessly for a week before I got my cablecard installed. I find it hard to blame my HTPC at this point.

I have a 56G786, purchased in Oct/2005, bulb life about 500 hours so far and no problems (yet). Like others here, I am following this closely.

I have also followed the ecoustics thread and there seem to be quite a few problems posted there as well. When I read about backorders and delays, I have to assume there are a lot of bulbs going out that are not reported here.

Thanks to all for all the info on this thread - I will try to contribute as I can.

...JVC has acknowledged there is an issue and working with the lamp mfg on rectifying. This is only done if problem reaches significant proportions.



It kind of depends on the PR spin they want to give, as well as what criteria they apply (as a retired economist I have some feel for quality control issues). Companies often put on a responsible face by acknowledging problems up front so as to appear to be pro-active. But it's hard to infer from that what actual failure rates we're talking about. I suspect that's a company secret anyway.

But I hope none of the forum participants think I'm trashing those who have coveyed their experience. I too am grateful they have warned us what to watch for. What does make me cringe a little is when people start to translate their personal misfortune into some kind of universal reality.

It kind of depends on the PR spin they want to give, as well as what criteria they apply (as a retired economist I have some feel for quality control issues). Companies often put on a responsible face by acknowledging problems up front so as to appear to be pro-active. But it's hard to infer from that what actual failure rates we're talking about. I suspect that's a company secret anyway.

But I hope none of the forum participants think I'm trashing those who have coveyed their experience. I too am grateful they have warned us what to watch for. What does make me cringe a little is when people start to translate their personal misfortune into some kind of universal reality.

Agree. The personal bias factor can be very cloudy, with both camps muddying the waters with personal misfortunes and fortunes.

I would also be interested in seeing failure rate stats but was not successful in getting any solid info. from my limited telephone conversations.

My TV is working and I am once again a happy viewer.

Does anyone else have problems with cablecards in these sets??

I have a 52G786 and have had major problems with the cards losing channels every few days.

Using a Motorola cablecard with Comcast and no issues.

I just had a problem come up yesterday with my HDMI input. I was using component initially until I'd purchased the HDMI cable. I hooked up the Motorola cable box HD-DVR via the HDMI input and it worked fine for a couple of days. All of a sudden yesterday the screen turned green (digital input) and doesn't seem to have any reception at all. Reconnecting the components (to another input) worked fine, so the cable box itself is generally ok. So I'm trying to figure out what the problem is. Is it a bad cable? Bad HDMI connection in the cable box or bad HDMI connection on the tv? I don't have another HDMI device to eliminate the tv's connection as the problem. Anybody have any ideas? I'm going to swap cables at the retailer to see if that makes a difference, but if that's not the issue then I must have a tv or cable box connection issue. Anybody else experienced this?

EDITED to add:

Looking at the 1080p thread, it seems HDMI failure is happening to a number of people. Though I get a grayed screen for only a few seconds as it seems to try to get the signal...then the screen on the digital input just turns the screen green. Are the procedures to try a HDMI reset the same as the 1080ps? I'll have to call JVC when I get back home from out of town, but after reading the other thread, it looks like my TV's HDMI port may be the problem.

[QUOTE=nikknightt]

My part numbers and invoice were the same but no box for returning the old one.

Chaz01

When I returned mine to the JVC QC department, I used the box that the new one came in, slapped the return label on and sent it on its merry way. :D

auditor had asked about theater mode & a yellow tinge. here's a shot of the snow from the two towers in theater mode, tint 0, color -09, pic -12, bright -11, detail -11, only dynamic gamma on. my avia settings with a fony 70h (yes, the player with the shift issue) in cinema 2, sharpness 2 mode. the camera is an old kodak dc-260, 1 megapixel camera with flash off & no lighting. disclaimer... i'm red green / blue purple colorblind so what looks good to me, may not look good to you. my set is a 56-g786. yes, i should have a friend with good eyes cal with me.
yellow anyone ???

[QUOTE=chaz01]

When I returned mine to the JVC QC department, I used the box that the new one came in, slapped the return label on and sent it on its merry way. :D

I had no return label or instructions or anything even suggesting to return mine. Strange. It is mercury based after all.

So, I just got my TV last night. I purchased the 52G786 on Sunday and my fiancee took delivery from Best Buy yesterday afternoon. I got home in the evening and immediately built the stand that was provided with it (currently is free at Best Buy with purchase of JVC TV)... anyways, as we were about to lift the TV onto the stand I looked at the back and something caught my eye, the Product number of the TV... it read as 56G786, the 56" version. So, I rechecked my receipt and checked my credit card statement and sure enough I was only charged for the 52"

so, is it wrong for me to just make believe i don't realize i have the wrong tv? personally, I think it is "bank error in my favor".

great set by the way. this is my first ever tv that is larger then 30" and i was seriously blown away last night. discovery hd theater was incredibly life like. i also can see why so many people have said you haven't played xbox 360 until you've played it on a hd tv set... it is almost night and day!

auditor had asked about theater mode & a yellow tinge. here's a shot of the snow from the two towers in theater mode, tint 0, color -09, pic -12, bright -11, detail -11, only dynamic gamma on. my avia settings with a fony 70h (yes, the player with the shift issue) in cinema 2, sharpness 2 mode. the camera is an old kodak dc-260, 1 megapixel camera with flash off & no lighting. disclaimer... i'm red green / blue purple colorblind so what looks good to me, may not look good to you. my set is a 56-g786. yes, i should have a friend with good eyes cal with me.
yellow anyone ???

There's a yellow tinge to the left 1/5 of the screen to my eyes.

So, I just got my TV last night. I purchased the 52G786 on Sunday and my fiancee took delivery from Best Buy yesterday afternoon. I got home in the evening and immediately built the stand that was provided with it (currently is free at Best Buy with purchase of JVC TV)... anyways, as we were about to lift the TV onto the stand I looked at the back and something caught my eye, the Product number of the TV... it read as 56G786, the 56" version. So, I rechecked my receipt and checked my credit card statement and sure enough I was only charged for the 52"

so, is it wrong for me to just make believe i don't realize i have the wrong tv? personally, I think it is "bank error in my favor".

great set by the way. this is my first ever tv that is larger then 30" and i was seriously blown away last night. discovery hd theater was incredibly life like. i also can see why so many people have said you haven't played xbox 360 until you've played it on a hd tv set... it is almost night and day!

Wow, you lucky dog. Did the delivery guys just happen to miss the "56" on the box or what. If you got the extended warranty, you may want to double check your receipt. It may say you bought the 52".

Wow, you lucky dog. Did the delivery guys just happen to miss the "56" on the box or what. If you got the extended warranty, you may want to double check your receipt. It may say you bought the 52".

well, i haven't checked the warranty receipt yet, but i do believe best buy prints portions of your receipt on the warranty. this was the only problem i figured i may have if i ever need service. wasn't sure if i could just play the i dont' know any better card and say "well, this is what was delivered to me".

i figure the delivery guys just didn't know.. the delivery receipt made no mention of what was delivered... it just had some long delivery number and the drivers signature was well as my name on it. not sure if the guys doing the delivery ever see the original receipt, or if they are just loaded up with a box that has my name on it....

i feel pretty lucky, basically a $500 upgrade for nothing.

I just had a problem come up yesterday with my HDMI input. I was using component initially until I'd purchased the HDMI cable. I hooked up the Motorola cable box HD-DVR via the HDMI input and it worked fine for a couple of days. All of a sudden yesterday the screen turned green (digital input) and doesn't seem to have any reception at all. Reconnecting the components (to another input) worked fine, so the cable box itself is generally ok. So I'm trying to figure out what the problem is. Is it a bad cable? Bad HDMI connection in the cable box or bad HDMI connection on the tv? I don't have another HDMI device to eliminate the tv's connection as the problem. Anybody have any ideas? I'm going to swap cables at the retailer to see if that makes a difference, but if that's not the issue then I must have a tv or cable box connection issue. Anybody else experienced this?

EDITED to add:

Looking at the 1080p thread, it seems HDMI failure is happening to a number of people. Though I get a grayed screen for only a few seconds as it seems to try to get the signal...then the screen on the digital input just turns the screen green. Are the procedures to try a HDMI reset the same as the 1080ps? I'll have to call JVC when I get back home from out of town, but after reading the other thread, it looks like my TV's HDMI port may be the problem.


You have a HMDI SYNCH problem. There is a reset process in this thread somewhere. Do a search. I had the same problem.

;)

The picture on my 52g886 started getting dark until there was no picture at all, then the l.e.d. lights started blinking, is it because the lamp is bad, or is it something else. Can someone with the same problem let me know, instead of waiting for a service guy to come out and look at my set, I can probably get a bulb quicker than a service technician.

The picture on my 52g886 started getting dark until there was no picture at all, then the l.e.d. lights started blinking, is it because the lamp is bad, or is it something else. Can someone with the same problem let me know, instead of waiting for a service guy to come out and look at my set, I can probably get a bulb quicker than a service technician.


Mine started getting dark over the course of a week until I heard a slight 'pop' and the screen went dark. The power LED was blinking by then also.

Call JVC for a bulb, They'll send you one without payment. I still haven't validated the need for a return of the old bulb yet though....
Rob

Those of you who need a new light engine - don't expect to get one for a while. They are on "back order" with JVC - they have 130 incoming, but no word on when they'll actually receive them. I am still waiting for mine (since early December).

Lucky us. :)

The hell with that...... I dumped my JVC

The hell with that...... I dumped my JVC

what does that mean? You threw it away?
wanna sell it? what is it? how much?

nickknight...

Sorry for the rant. I had a JVC for six weeks and the light engine went out...After about 5-6 weeks of waiting with no help from JVC I "dumped" my JVC at the store where I purchased and traded for a Sony LCD

Does anyone know where you can buy just the bulb part of the set up? I found some here http://bestbuy.partsearch.com/PartNumberSearchResults.aspx?PartNumber=qll01 All of the part numbers are close but no exact match. SO i figure they are out there some where. Also does anyone have a specs on the bulb? i.e. voltage, watts, etc. I guess what I'm thinking is it possible to rebuild these for less...?

Also found some lamps here
http://silbo.en.alibaba.com/group/50109027/Ultra_high_pre.html

I picked up a spare bulb on ebay for about 25% less than JVC cost.

Have had my 56Inch for about 2 months now. No problems & we love the set. Picture is awsome with OTA. I have two antennas, a 12 element & 6 element in parrallel in my attic. We are about 20 mi southeast of Portland, Or, & signal str is between 80 & 95 on all digital channels. Friends comment all the time on the picture quality, can't believe how bright, colorful, & crisp it is. Even the analog signal from my Dish DVR942 is aceptable with S-video inputs. I guess that is because it is a clean analog signal. Dish wants too much for their HD receivers at this time. I'll wait a while.
Hopefully I won't have a lamp prob. I did get a 4 yr extended warranty from Video Only when I bought it.

"I have two antennas, a 12 element & 6 element in parrallel in my attic."

Could you describe that to me a little more?
I can't seem to find any antenna to help with my local HDTV.
I'm in Redondo Beach, Right out side of L.A.
I'm looking to pull in the channel 24/28/56 PBS type stations that have 'Soundstage' and other shows like that.
Another issue is that I don't think the channels i'm after warrant spending $100-200.....
Anybody?
Rob

I bought my 70G886 in May. I just checked the bulb hours and it is 3019 hours. I have not had any problems yet. However, I know somebody who has had their set (56" I think) a bit longer than me and their bulb has blown once.

My antennas are just standard ota. Both are many years old. The smaller one I've used for years for analog reception. The larger one, my son used at college several years ago. I have had it stored in the garage. When I bought the HD set, my old antenna didn't quite give me a strong enough digital signal to keep a good picture (without occasional pixelization), so I drug out the big antenna from the garage and put up in the attic alongside o the other antenna. They lay side by side on top oth the ceiling joices. I connected them together with a splitter/combiner and now have a great signal. I called the stations that had the weakest signals, and they told me which tower they used for their digital signal and what analog signals were also broadcast form that tower also. By finding the strongest analog signal, I was then able to fine tune the digital. The digital is harder to fine tune until you get a strong enough signal not to lose it. As you may know, with digital, when the signal gets too weak, it is totally gone, whereas analog just gets weaker and weaker but doesn't go away. The reverse is true also when trying to get the strongest signal by rotating your antennas in the right direction. You will need a signal meter, or someone watching the tv with a walkie talkie, or intercom phone.
Hope this helps. Good luck.

Have had my 56Inch for about 2 months now. No problems & we love the set. Picture is awsome with OTA. I have two antennas, a 12 element & 6 element in parrallel in my attic. We are about 20 mi southeast of Portland, Or, & signal str is between 80 & 95 on all digital channels. Friends comment all the time on the picture quality, can't believe how bright, colorful, & crisp it is. Even the analog signal from my Dish DVR942 is aceptable with S-video inputs. I guess that is because it is a clean analog signal. Dish wants too much for their HD receivers at this time. I'll wait a while.
Hopefully I won't have a lamp prob. I did get a 4 yr extended warranty from Video Only when I bought it.
I also got my TV at Video Only in the Portland area. Does your extended warranty say that it will replace bulbs?

I bought my jvc 70in because i heard how great the pic was and so forth but gosh i have not seen it yet and i have had it for about a month not quite. I am really tired of watching HD that looks like my SD. I have timewarner cable and dishNetwork and now i have to admit some of my SD dish stuff looks better then my HD cable. But still my old hitachi 50v500a i bought a year and half ago has better pic qality with HD anyway then this. I have the detail tunred all the way down to -30 the picture is at 0 brightness is at +10 because at 0 its to dark with dark scenes you dont see much and its making me very upset i paid all this money for this supposed great Tv and nothing. I dont know who to call to have come look at it. I have 15 more days to purcahse the extended warranty on it but i am thinking of calling JVC and seeing if there is some kind of 30 day trial and have them take it back or something.

Anyone have any ideas? maybe i can sell it i dont know. i am not sure if i sold it how i would transport it as i threw away the box. Do you call JVC for service if its still under manufactures warranty?

MAybe something is wrong with my set or maybe i should take it back (not sure how i ordered it online) and get something else

I also got my TV at Video Only in the Portland area. Does your extended warranty say that it will replace bulbs?

Yes, that is something I checked when we bought the TV. Hopefully I won't need it soon.

I bought my jvc 70in because i heard how great the pic was and so forth but gosh i have not seen it yet and i have had it for about a month not quite. I am really tired of watching HD that looks like my SD. I have timewarner cable and dishNetwork and now i have to admit some of my SD dish stuff looks better then my HD cable. But still my old hitachi 50v500a i bought a year and half ago has better pic qality with HD anyway then this. I have the detail tunred all the way down to -30 the picture is at 0 brightness is at +10 because at 0 its to dark with dark scenes you dont see much and its making me very upset i paid all this money for this supposed great Tv and nothing. I dont know who to call to have come look at it. I have 15 more days to purcahse the extended warranty on it but i am thinking of calling JVC and seeing if there is some kind of 30 day trial and have them take it back or something.

Anyone have any ideas? maybe i can sell it i dont know. i am not sure if i sold it how i would transport it as i threw away the box. Do you call JVC for service if its still under manufactures warranty?

MAybe something is wrong with my set or maybe i should take it back (not sure how i ordered it online) and get something else

How is the cable connected for HD?

Something is wrong. Brightness on my set (new bulb) is at -30, so that's the first red flag for you. HD should look anywhere from good to great.

Since you are inquiring about a 30 day trial, where did you buy it? Most B&M's (not sure about e retail) will take it back within 30 days.

Swap out for another. Call the store you bought it from and tell them it's too dark. If you can't do that, call JVC and have a tech come out.

I bought this set because it seemed so bright and everyone talked about it would blind you with its brightness. WEll now that i have it i am disapointed it does not seem to have near the brightness of my old hitachi 50v500 lcd and it was not exactlly bright.
I am not sure if its in my cables or settings or if i should not be going through my amp and then out to the tv but straight through to the TV. I did some of the adjustments on the service page and i cant figure out the brightness part where to set it at. I have tried a couple different things and nothing seems to make the darks look good. I have the brightness turned up to 14 on the compnet video 2 input.
Any help or if you need more info please let me know. Thanks so much

Go straight to the TV and bypass amp. With your brightness settings, you should be squinting or wearing very dark sunglasses.

Has anyone found that hdmi works better then componet or vise versa? I have a dvd called dve is that like the avia? What do you have your brightness set at in the service menu? i see it goes from 00 to 63 i think and i didnt know if the higher the # the higher the brightness or not.
Also what should i set the color at? i have them all set at 128 right now.

Please explain "128" settings.

EDIT_Reset your service menu to OEM settings and start fresh.

In the service menu i have the red blue and green set to 128. as i read on here someone else set theres at that.

I am running Hd from my cable box directly to the tv via hdmi 4ft cable. Its a phillips cable.
My dish network on the other hand is running componet and well i still have the brightness issue and still seems to have a good ammount of noise i guess you call it in the pic. Now i would expect some noise from SD but from HD i would think it would be crystal clear. i bought it through samsons elecronics in NJ.

[I]Just recently received my 56g786 and having a problem with HDMI input. There is an audio ticking noise every 1 or 2 seconds. Video appears fine but tries to cut out every 30 seconds or so. This was happening with my DVD hookup. When I switched DVD player to another input using component connections it worked fine. Now with nothing hooked into HDMI port when just selecting the digital-in input I can still hear the audio ticking. Anybody hear of this problem before?

FWIW,

I purchased my 61Z786 in June 2005, and its been in use since the end of that month. Approx 1600 hrs on the lamp when it got very dim. Four days later, poof! This was end of December. JVC sent a replacement lamp around the turn of the year. Had it in 3 days, and just in time for the Texas-USC game.

RonC

In the service menu i have the red blue and green set to 128. as i read on here someone else set theres at that.

I am running Hd from my cable box directly to the tv via hdmi 4ft cable. Its a phillips cable.
My dish network on the other hand is running componet and well i still have the brightness issue and still seems to have a good ammount of noise i guess you call it in the pic. Now i would expect some noise from SD but from HD i would think it would be crystal clear. i bought it through samsons elecronics in NJ.

Noise is present in HD on my set at times. This TV is very sensitive to signal compression (too much so really). Your best bet may be a return, though I still think something is not right with your set.

Noise is present in HD on my set at times. This TV is very sensitive to signal compression (too much so really). Your best bet may be a return, though I still think something is not right with your set.

From the reviews I've read and comments in this forum, picture quality does not seem to be a problem at all. If anything consensus is that the picture is supurb. I live in Ottawa Canada and am on Rogers Digital Cable. We get all of the HD channels in Seattle Washington and they come through with no problem at all. Watching the Sea Hawks play on the Seattle channel is as good as the feed from Detroit. So i'm convinced that your cable/satellite feed is wonky. Maybe you have a bad STB. I would call your cable provider and ask them to check your feed.

Hi All, I've been reading through the threads trying to understand the difference between the xxG886/886 line of JVC LCoS sets and the xxFH96 models. So far all I've been able to find is that the FH96 models have support for 1080p.

Is there really a big difference in PQ? Is the FH96 worth the extra cost? I'm trying to decide between the following:

Sony SXRD 50"
JVC 52G886
JVC 56FH96

The later is the most expensive, it's also the largest, but is it worth the extra cost over the sony or smaller JVC?

(this is going into a fairly well-lit family room with several windows)

TIA!

how do you reset your TV to factory defults?

thanks

Anybody using a Logitech Harmony remote with there unit? I have a 56g786 and I am using a h659 remote and cannot seem to get the remote to turn the unit "ON". it turns it off, and will do anything else that the factory remote will do, but it will not turn the unit on. I currently have the remote set to use "PowerON" for ON and "PowerOFF" for off... (the discrete codes that are in the logitech database for this television). anybody have any ideas?

also, this one isn't too bad, just annoying... when i switch to my xbox 360, it won't turn to the correct input channel (input-1)... the weird thing is that it will change fine when i choose watch a movie (the dvd player also uses input-1). when choosing "play xbox" it will turn everything on fine, but will not change the channel until either A.) i hit help, it will immediately go to the correct channel without hitting anything else B.) i manually send the tv to input 1


any help would be appreciated.


PS - i did go through the troubleshooting online for the 360 problem, which coincidentally has an option for "device will change channel as soon as "help" button is pressed"..

you need to do power toggle to make it work. at least thats what i did for my jvc.
you might have to slow the speed that it uses to change the input. or use the delay setting so after it turns it on and so forth then it will wait a couple seconds before turning the tv to that input

I just bought the 56" JVS today. The HD looks OK and the SD is so so. Xbox 360 looks fantastic. I am only running my DVD player through the component connects and need to try it through a DVI / HDMI cable.

I noticed a few things while going through the forums pre and post purchase. There seem to be mixed reviews on SD PQ. Time Warner recently switched to all digital service in my area. However, SD channels are still lacking. Using Dig. Noise Clear helps, but it seems to add a strange "soft filter" look.

I also read where a couple of people stated that sitting 7' away from a 52" is not far enough. I am sitting approx. 9.4 feet from my 56". Is that far enough? Could that be part of my problem?

Also, my wife sees a strange shimmer in the middle on the screen. Anyone notice that too?

I am not opposed to returning this unit to Best Buy. I might just have to hold out until all cable stations broadcast in HD... whenever that will be.

I]Just recently received my 56g786 and having a problem with HDMI input. There is an audio ticking noise every 1 or 2 seconds. Video appears fine but tries to cut out every 30 seconds or so. This was happening with my DVD hookup. When I switched DVD player to another input using component connections it worked fine. Now with nothing hooked into HDMI port when just selecting the digital-in input I can still hear the audio ticking. Anybody hear of this problem before?


Trying this a second time. Anybody ever experience this problem? Any help would be appreciated.

Well, I picked up an RCA DVR2160 160GB Digital Recorder to see if it would work with my JVC 61Z786. It doesn't work with the JVC via firewire. I know JVC states it in the manual but I wanted to try since the RCA was being discontinued and the price was right for the research.

Anyways, the RCA is on it's way to ebay land...

you need to do power toggle to make it work. at least thats what i did for my jvc.
you might have to slow the speed that it uses to change the input. or use the delay setting so after it turns it on and so forth then it will wait a couple seconds before turning the tv to that input

lovemymac,

thanks... i got the problem with switching to input-1 for my 360 fixed using your advice for a delay.

i still can't get the power to turn on though. it's quite weird. i can hit "device" on the remote and choose "tv" and use the power toggle there and it works fine... i've switched that button to use both power toggle and power on, as well as using a learned command that i sent to the harmony with the factory remote, and all worked great to turn the tv on. however, it will not turn the tv on when using the "watch tv", "watch dvd", and "more activities" buttons...

i've messed around with those activity buttons... tried adding a second "power on/toggle" command after all commands have been sent, tried different delay timings... nothing. oh well, i'll probably call logitech and see if they have any suggestions.

JVC 56G886

Purchased in october 2005, I need help with resolution scaling. Direct tv h10 receiver hooked up via HDMI. There is a green flicker and 2 or 3 second image loss when scaling from 480/720/1080.

Can I leave the receiver in 1080 and let the tv scale down or viceversa. Will the tv do the scaling? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

P.S. I already need a new lamp, I hope there is no backorder as previously posted.
One more note HDMI will fail, it turns out that HDMI is still buggy. The HDMI can be reset via the service menu very easily. I will gladly explain how if need be.

HTPC DVI-HDMI

Who has this working, and what video card are you using? I had this working for a week with a Radeon 9600, but it has stopped working ever since I got a Cablecard installed. HDMI reset did not help. Thanks.

Well now I know what the blinking and the dark picture mean, I just replaced the lamp on my JVC 52G886 and the picture is phenomenal, it's like I just bought it. If this is the only draw back about these t.v's then it's not so bad, considering the picture, I just hope JVC finds a way to make a better lamp, and it's just not jvc, it's all the microdisplays that are on the market. If the pixels on a plasma go bad you have to get rid of it, not so on a microdisplay, all you have to do is replace the lamp. I just hope the lamp lasts longer than five months.

i still can't get the power to turn on though. it's quite weird. i can hit "device" on the remote and choose "tv" and use the power toggle there and it works fine... i've switched that button to use both power toggle and power on, as well as using a learned command that i sent to the harmony with the factory remote, and all worked great to turn the tv on. however, it will not turn the tv on when using the "watch tv", "watch dvd", and "more activities" buttons...

i've messed around with those activity buttons... tried adding a second "power on/toggle" command after all commands have been sent, tried different delay timings... nothing. oh well, i'll probably call logitech and see if they have any suggestions.

I have a similar problem with my 8300 remote, turns off my 786 and 8300 just instantly, however, I have to select CBL power on, then TV power on then back to CBL. I think I am going to try and reverse the codes in the remote first and see what happens. :p

my sony avr-2100 does the same thing. I press a macro button to turn everything on and everything BUT the TV turns on. Press the same button to turn everything off and everything INCLUDING the TV turns off.

So, I'm left with keeping the JVC remote handy which isn't THAT bad considering that I'm always tweaking things here and there.

Spare bulb arrived from JVC yesterday 1/16. I ordered it on the 7th so it took a little over a week.

Like a good boyscout I'm now prepared. Hopefully I won't need a new bulb for some time, but I can't risk the bulb burning out on a Friday or something and not being able to watch playoff games.

After accessing the svc menu and pressing 4 for the lamp hours check....Is it possible to change any colour settings or the way the display works?

Once there, I was trying to figure out how to get to the correct directory [070/071] and I'm unsure if I changed any settings.. I thought it might have looked differently once back to TV.

Rob

Spare bulb arrived from JVC yesterday 1/16. I ordered it on the 7th so it took a little over a week.

Like a good boyscout I'm now prepared. Hopefully I won't need a new bulb for some time, but I can't risk the bulb burning out on a Friday or something and not being able to watch playoff games.


Don't they want the old one returned?
Rob

Well, I picked up an RCA DVR2160 160GB Digital Recorder to see if it would work with my JVC 61Z786. It doesn't work with the JVC via firewire. I know JVC states it in the manual but I wanted to try since the RCA was going for $99.

Anyways, the RCA is on it's way to ebay land...


Are there any reports of these 1394 ports working?
The devices need t obe JVC? What devices are supported? Does JVC make any dvd recorders?
Rob

Don't they want the old one returned?
Rob

I bought a spare. This way if my bulb goes I can install the one I have and get JVC to send me a new one under warranty.

Playoff Football is pretty important.

Help. My 61Z786 now gets a green tint only on the digital channels?? I can't find a problem in the service area. Everything works great in HDMI and analog cable. When I pull the cable card out the screen shows info but has a green tint. I was playing in the service menu and being stupid I pushed the mute button.. I've tried palying more with the settings with no luck... I have the service book.. Thanks for any help...

I have a 52G886. Pic on HD channels is great, but SD is HIGHLY variable, not only channel-to-channel but even WITHIN some channels! For example, on news channels with a split screen, one person can look crisp while the other looks fuzzy. Also, on the news channels, I notice that the border around people's faces can look very artificial...like a cutout. Can anyone explain all this to me?

I have the Harmony 676, which I'm using with my JVC 61z786 TV, an Onkyo receiver and other stuff. It works quite well, and turns my TV on and off with the other components with the press of one button. I didn't have to monkey with it at all; it worked just fine after the first programming. Occassionally, I'll have to hit the 'help' button on the remote to have it set the correct input, but usually it works as it should. Sorry I can't help with any advice, but I thought you guys struggling with your Harmony remotes should know that I haven't had any troubles with mine.

Regarding picture quality, I'm very pleased with both SD and HD programming. Sure, the SD isn't nearly as good as HD, but it's better than I've seen on a lot of other DLP and RPLCD sets, and certainly watchable. In fact, with the lack of HD channels, most of what I watch is in SD.

Are there any reports of these 1394 ports working?
The devices need t obe JVC? What devices are supported? Does JVC make any dvd recorders?
Rob

The firewire port on my JVC 61Z786 works only with JVC DVHS recorders and some JVC camcorders. I was trying to see if it would work with a straight digital recorder. No chance...

Anybody using a Logitech Harmony remote with there unit? I have a 56g786 and I am using a h659 remote and cannot seem to get the remote to turn the unit "ON". it turns it off, and will do anything else that the factory remote will do, but it will not turn the unit on. I currently have the remote set to use "PowerON" for ON and "PowerOFF" for off... (the discrete codes that are in the logitech database for this television). anybody have any ideas?

also, this one isn't too bad, just annoying... when i switch to my xbox 360, it won't turn to the correct input channel (input-1)... the weird thing is that it will change fine when i choose watch a movie (the dvd player also uses input-1). when choosing "play xbox" it will turn everything on fine, but will not change the channel until either A.) i hit help, it will immediately go to the correct channel without hitting anything else B.) i manually send the tv to input 1


any help would be appreciated.


PS - i did go through the troubleshooting online for the 360 problem, which coincidentally has an option for "device will change channel as soon as "help" button is pressed"..



try erasing all the automatic activities the harmony sets up, then making new ones. it worked for me. you do not have to erase your devices just the activities from the web interface and your remote.

I asked a few questions a few posts back and I am still not really happy with the quality of the 56" version of this tv. XBOX 360 looks great. DVD's are good for the most part even though I notice a matte type effect very often, which I assume is the screen itself, especially in darker scenes.

My biggest complaint is with the SD and to some extent the HD reception from Time Warner. I know that this is a digital display and that analog signals will not be reproduced that well, etc. However, the SD channels look so bad that they are difficult to watch and I have noticed that on screen movement is not very smooth at all. The SD and in some cases the HD signals look better better on my two year old RPCRT hdtv.

As far as HD channels go I really do not see any the increase in picture quality that people in this post have been describing. Last nights American Idol looked great, but other new shows that the major networks broadcast in 720p or 1080i are not that impressive. I watched part of Phantom of the Opera on HBO and it was very grainy.

Is anyone else this disappointed with this JVC set? Is there anyway to make the SD channels watchable? I am planning on returning the tv this weekend. I would appreciate any help and / or suggestions on how to make the images on the set better (I have tried changing all of the available settings). On the other hand, I would also appreciate any suggestions on an alternate purchase for a 52" or larger tv that does a good job of reproducing SD channels as well as HD.

Thanks in advance. I am looking forward to checking out tonights episode of Lost, though.

The firewire port on my JVC 61Z786 works only with JVC DVHS recorders and some JVC camcorders. I was trying to see if it would work with a straight digital recorder. No chance...


I was wondering if anyone has been using the firewire on the jvc set to a jvc dvhs recorder. I see that you can get a jvc dvhs recorder for around $300. I will have comcast cable and wanted to be able to record hdtv movies with it. The dvr that comcast has is only 120gig so I would fill that up fast. The comcast dvr doesn't allow for the firewire transfer and sounds like it never will.

Help. My 61Z786 now gets a green tint only on the digital channels?? I can't find a problem in the service area. Everything works great in HDMI and analog cable. When I pull the cable card out the screen shows info but has a green tint. I was playing in the service menu and being stupid I pushed the mute button.. I've tried palying more with the settings with no luck... I have the service book.. Thanks for any help...

TusconJVC, does your system text go green, too? If it does, then you have an issue with your Light Engine. If it doesn't then it's a source or input board issue. Are you sure it's only on your digital channels?

My green-tint problem happens when it warms up or the room gets hot. If I keep the heat off in the house and let it go freezing cold (~50 degrees inside, yes I'm a west coast weakling), my TV won't go green for hours.

Green HDMI digital in.

Fixed after HDMI reset. Now green flicker when the direct tv receiver is changing resolutions and 3 second video disruption. Is any else having this problem?

Does the box allow a "pass through" for HD? sounds like it's scaling to 720p than feeding to set. I had this same issue with the moto 6412. I was forced to choose either 1080i or 720p and let the box do all the scaling. the TV has a better scaler. Try pass through or native or something along those lines if possible for HD.

My cable company did a firmware reset, I believe, because at first there was a setting for "pass" and now they just list all the settings (480o/p, 720-p, 1080i) and there is a provision for selecting "yes" and "no". Should I set these all to "no" and let the TV do the scaling?

Green HDMI digital in.

Fixed after HDMI reset. Now green flicker when the direct tv receiver is changing resolutions and 3 second video disruption. Is any else having this problem?


My set has always had a blurring/flicker whenever i changed from 480/720/1080i
It lasts for about 1second. Never thought it was a problem.
Rob

The on screen text is fine in digital and everything is fine with color with HDMI and analog. If I adjust S30,31,32 no different in digital cable still green tint but changes in HDMI and analog cable.. With or without cable card. It seems that the digital tuner is srewed up.. when I unplug the card I still get the green tint screen.. Everything is has a green tint even after you adjust the colors in service mode... THANKS>>

The on screen text is fine in digital and everything is fine with color with HDMI and analog. If I adjust S30,31,32 no different in digital cable still green tint but changes in HDMI and analog cable.. With or without cable card. It seems that the digital tuner is srewed up.. when I unplug the card I still get the green tint screen.. Everything is has a green tint even after you adjust the colors in service mode... THANKS>>

You need a new hdmi board. The hdmi board actually has the controls for all the inputs. My tuner input was missing the red drive and the only thing that fixed it was the hdmi board replacement.

My set has always had a blurring/flicker whenever i changed from 480/720/1080i
It lasts for about 1second. Never thought it was a problem.
Rob


same here with hdtivo, i think it is hdmi handshaking.

The on screen text is fine in digital and everything is fine with color with HDMI and analog. If I adjust S30,31,32 no different in digital cable still green tint but changes in HDMI and analog cable.. With or without cable card. It seems that the digital tuner is srewed up.. when I unplug the card I still get the green tint screen.. Everything is has a green tint even after you adjust the colors in service mode... THANKS>>

If it just occurs with the digital tuner (i.e. ATSC/QAM), then that is a reported issue that seems to happen frequently. You can verify this issue if the green tint does not appear when you switch to PIP, the small PIP screen displayed should have a normal appearance compared to the green tinted full screen display. I suspect this has something to do with JVC's ridiculous HDMI security implementation.

Does anyone know how to remove/clean the air filter on these sets yet?

... the SD channels look so bad that they are difficult to watch and I have noticed that on screen movement is not very smooth at all. The SD and in some cases the HD signals look better better on my two year old RPCRT hdtv.

...Is anyone else this disappointed with this JVC set? Is there anyway to make the SD channels watchable?

This is certain the opposite of my experience, and of virtually everyone else here. I get an excellent quality SD picture off satellite and quite good one some OTA channels. HD is stunning.

When I first got it, there was an audio problem using HDMI, (which I eventually fixed by getting a home theatre, but was apparently the fault of an incompatability between the satellite reciever and the TV), so for a while I played around with both analog (composite) and digital input. The analog input produced video almost as good as the digital, certainly far better than what I was used to on my 6-year old Trinitron.

So I have two suggestions a) try the analog inputs to see if things improve (both component and composite) and b) if they do, maybe see if there is a problem with the HDMI cable (or maybe the HDMI circuitry or software).

I really think we own the best display technology on the market today (although not perfect, nothing ever is) and I hope you're able to find the problem.

I took advantage of used open box tv that a company was selling with a 30 day return policy and replaced my HDMI unit myself and it works great.. My JVC is under warranty but there's only one guy here that repairs JVC under factory warranty and he had no clue. It took me 2 weeks for him to fix my sound problem I had 2 months ago.. I told him about the problems in HDMI and digital cable he said he was sending a email to JVC about the problems and 2 weeks later no responce from him. I wish I would have gotten a different TV that has better customer support. The repair guy says that evey company is going down the drain when it comes to support...

OK guys and gals... Who here wants to pay for a light engine, or light engine(s).. lamp, or lamp(s) once the set is offically out of warranty, when there was a way to get JVC to do so?


(FYI: For those that have an extended warranty and think they are "covered"... at some point IF the numbers are great enough that the insurance companies are losing money big time on these sets the EW warranty companies WILL find a way to exclude YOUR warranty claim... )


For those that have had to replace their D-ILA's lamp /lamps(s!!!!!), or light engine, /light engine(s!!!!!) Please take a few minutes to post some POST DETAILED INFO ON YOUR SET(s)...
Please try to post in format noted below.

http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/2/176314.html

Here is an example post: http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=576965#POST576965


BTW: Without"detailed info" your info is UNVERIFIABLE and is meaningless.

(Note not all sections may apply to you, so read between the lines people:-)

POST
1: The mfg /model
2: Serial number range of your set. (xxx out the last digits if you need to)
3: Date of mfg
4: Date of purchase
5: Note symptoms in DETAIL
6: Note hours run each day.
6a:Note estimated TOTAL amount of run time.
7: Note amount time set say on once it is powered up. (In other words your not turning OFF and back on every time a commercial comes on.)
8: Note if set in plugged into a UPS -to not only FILTER incoming power, but to PROTECT set from BROWN-OUT conditions (low voltage)
9: Please note any differences between the old, and new lamp. D-ila lamps should be a Toshiba mfg'd TS-CL110U or TS-CL110Uaa.
10: Note part numbers of replaced parts.
11: Finish your post by stating what you expect JVC to do....

Tell them your concerns about the same repair being done 6 months out of warranty, especially if the set has been repaired several times. Tell them also you are seeing allot of owners posting on the Internet on various boards with the same kind of problems.
Tell them what kind of lifespan you expected out of the set when you PURCHASED it., (99% or people expect the set to last several years without a major repair, and at least 3 years in normal usage on the lamp since the lamp is rated for 6,000 hours.)

Tell them that one of the BIG selling points in buying the JVC D-ILA, over the competitors models is JVC advertises the D-ILA light engine has no moving parts, and NO organics to degrade over time. Tell them how often you expect to have to buy a lamp, if the lamp is rated for 6,000 hours based upon your viewing habits.

Posting details like the above not only will "help" JVC address the problem(s)... but it will make it ALLOT harder for them to "wiggle" out of ANY claims, and/or lawsuits that may come about if these issues are NOT fixed. It will also "help" in cases in which someone is officially beyond the 1 year warranty, and repairs are needed.. To prove that there is some kind of design flaw that would warrant a recall OR replacement of the set with a updated model.

Detailed info will go a long ways towards getting JVC, the vendors of the parts to HONOR the RATED run time of the components /parts.

****

Guys, The more people that post "details" about their sets increases the chance that JVC will take care of customers that are "offically" out of the warranty period.

Light engines aren't "cheap" $1,500 -$1,700, and those lamps aren't cheap at $200 a pop.


http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=538876#POST538876

Thanks for the response davegow.

The Time Warner HD DVR STB I use has the digital outputs deactivated (I got one of the first units). Therefore, I have to use the component outputs. I will see if they have new models that have those outputs activated. Do you use the Dig Noise Reduction function? I have to turn that on when watching SD.

I should receive the DVI - HDMI cable today that I ordered from monoprice.com. Hopefully that will improve the DVD PQ.

On the other hand, I hope it is not a problem with the unit itself, e.g. something shook loose in transit.

Ran across this, interesting read..... for those worried about SHORT $$$$$$$$ lamp life on the D-ILA's

Here is a link to a man who upgraded his Samsung HLN507w lamp, ballast, and "ballast fan", switching from a Toshiba, to Phillips lamp

http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/2/186132.html


It sure would be "Nice" if JVC could come out with some kind of RETRO-FIT KIT for replacing the Toshiba TS-CL110U (aa) lamps that are givng short lamp life. Most of the posts I've read on Phillips lamps say they LAST allot longer than the Toshiba's..

I think JVC needs to look into using Phillips lamp if for no other reason to spur competition between the two vendors. Sort of stupid to use (1) vendor as a source for ALL your parts..(lamps)

The ONLY reason for using one vendor would be if one lamp wholesales for $10., and the other is $50+

(I know you have to save costs, but most people would pay a few extra bucks upfront when buying an tiem that cost sveral THOUSANDS of dollars to get a part which LASTS.)

A smart mfg gets their parts from more than one vendor, and if one of the vendors is having problems with quality control they REFUSE shipments from that vendor.

I just wrote a post 4 days ago that my lamp had 3019 hours on it and I have had no problems (jinx). Well it blew tonight, conveniently just 3 days before the biggest Seahawks game ever..... It is a major bummer because this TV is so awesome for football. Does anybody know how I could get a lamp by Sunday??? I live in the Portland, Oregon area.

Your best bet would be to call all of the local TV repair shops to see if they have one to spare.

Thanks. Good idea. First local place I called has them in stock. I am going to pick it up today (no charge of course). Go Seahawks.

I about had my mind made up to purchase a JVC HD-52G786, until I came here and read this thread. It really sounds like the premature bulb burnout problem is pretty common with this HD-ILA product line.

A head to head comparison at Best Buy between the 52G786, Sony 50" A10 LCD rear projection, and the 50" Samsung DLP showed a clear advantage in image quality, viewing angle, and freedom from lag (a biggey for someone like me who plans to game on it) with the 52G786 (which for some reason Best Buy has dubbed "HD52BP6"). I just don't know if I could buy this set with confidence, knowing its seemingly horrific track record for bulb failures.

Has the "G" series not improved significantly from the "B" series in this regard?

I read about the "mod" whereby a Phillips bulb and ballast is substituted for the Toshiba that comes stock with the JVC. I hate to think that it would take something that drastic to remedy this situation, especially if I'm buying a new unit that's "under warranty".

I keep hearing the criticism that the black level of JVC's LCoS technology is inferior to Samsung's DLP. In all honesty, I couldn't detect a difference between the two in this regard, although both were inferior to Sony's SXRD. I just don't have the cash for the SXRD, and I don't like where Sony chose to put the speakers. It spoils the styling of the unit and adds unneeded width, IMO.

gobigreen, glad to hear you got your dilemma worked out for Sunday. I'm going to be watching the game on a Toshiba 32A35 SDTV. :( Got room for a diehard Panthers fan at your place? ;)

Thanks. Good idea. First local place I called has them in stock. I am going to pick it up today (no charge of course). Go Seahawks.


Nice! I'm glad it worked out for you. GO Denver!

I just wrote a post 4 days ago that my lamp had 3019 hours on it and I have had no problems (jinx). Well it blew tonight, conveniently just 3 days before the biggest Seahawks game ever..... It is a major bummer because this TV is so awesome for football. Does anybody know how I could get a lamp by Sunday??? I live in the Portland, Oregon area.

Not unless there's a svc center in your area.
Maybe Vancouver or Beaverton.
Rob

When viewing SD channels in 4:3 mode, is there a way to change the colors of the side bars from grey to black? I like watching SD shows like Sci Fi's Battlestar Galactica in 4:3 format (since they present it in pseudo widescreen), but the grey bars are distracting.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Not unless there's a svc center in your area.
Maybe Vancouver or Beaverton.
Rob


It doesn't have to be a service center, any authorized service provider can give you a new lamp for free. That is IF they have them in stock.

This thread has little action - I'm looking at the Sont 60" SXRD and the new JVC 70" HD-iLA. I just went to three stores and looked at the Sony - impressive, but smallish. I'd like to go to 67 - 70 but have not been able to view the new JVC yet. Anyone seen it, bought it, like it?

When viewing SD channels in 4:3 mode, is there a way to change the colors of the side bars from grey to black? I like watching SD shows like Sci Fi's Battlestar Galactica in 4:3 format (since they present it in pseudo widescreen), but the grey bars are distracting.

Any ideas? Thanks.

I was able to turn the bars into black by using the cable box. I have a Motorola DCT 6412III. Access the cable box service menu by turning the cable box off, and hit the menu button. I'm not in front of the TV right now, but there is an option for how you want to watch SD programming. Chose "none" or whatever option is similar. I had it at 480p before and I see no change in PQ by choosing none.This gives me black bars except for one channel, CBS. When they broadcast SD on the HD channel, channel 189 here, it has grey bars, so I just go to channel 2, Chicago's CBS affiliate, and voila, black bars. As far as I know, the bar color can't be changed by the TV.

This thread has little action - I'm looking at the Sont 60" SXRD and the new JVC 70" HD-iLA. I just went to three stores and looked at the Sony - impressive, but smallish. I'd like to go to 67 - 70 but have not been able to view the new JVC yet. Anyone seen it, bought it, like it?

I was very impressed with the 60" Sony SXRD I saw at Best Buy this week. It was clearly the best image quality of the rear projection models I viewed. It's way out of my budget though. I'm limited to ~$2,200, so even the 50" SXRD Sony is out of my budget.

There has been a lot of criticism directed at the HD-ILA JVC line in this thread, and most of it seems to be pretty well founded. I've read other comments about the HD-52/56G786 in XBox/XBox 360 forums that were largely positive, but these guys are looking a game performance as a primary factor. Even there I hear some horror stories about bulb life and muted, or distorted black level issues.

I'm having a lot of second thoughts about this series now. I'd really like to see JVC lick these bulb performance problems before I make a purchase (which won't be possible for me until May at the earliest). By then I'll have a better idea of how OLED technology is going to turn out. My decision might be a little easier to make then.

I tell you what though... if the 50" SXRD's price fell to the point I could pick one up for less than $2200, I'd be all over it!

I was able to turn the bars into black by using the cable box. I have a Motorola DCT 6412III. Access the cable box service menu by turning the cable box off, and hit the menu button. I'm not in front of the TV right now, but there is an option for how you want to watch SD programming. Chose "none" or whatever option is similar. I had it at 480p before and I see no change in PQ by choosing none.This gives me black bars except for one channel, CBS. When they broadcast SD on the HD channel, channel 189 here, it has grey bars, so I just go to channel 2, Chicago's CBS affiliate, and voila, black bars. As far as I know, the bar color can't be changed by the TV.

This is a relief to read Duff Man, thanks for sharing this procedure!

I was very impressed with the 60" Sony SXRD I saw at Best Buy this week. It was clearly the best image quality of the rear projection models I viewed. It's way out of my budget though. I'm limited to ~$2,200, so even the 50" SXRD Sony is out of my budget.

There has been a lot of criticism directed at the HD-ILA JVC line in this thread, and most of it seems to be pretty well founded. I've read other comments about the HD-52/56G786 in XBox/XBox 360 forums that were largely positive, but these guys are looking a game performance as a primary factor. Even there I hear some horror stories about bulb life and muted, or distorted black level issues.

I'm having a lot of second thoughts about this series now. I'd really like to see JVC lick these bulb performance problems before I make a purchase (which won't be possible for me until May at the earliest). By then I'll have a better idea of how OLED technology is going to turn out. My decision might be a little easier to make then.

I tell you what though... if the 50" SXRD's price fell to the point I could pick one up for less than $2200, I'd be all over it!

While there are some negatives with these sets, they can perform very well. HD football is great and yes, the xbox 360 is outstanding. Movies look good (upconverting dvd player) and HD varies. All in all though, some, including myself, are happy with the gx86.

While there are some negatives with these sets, they can perform very well. HD football is great and yes, the xbox 360 is outstanding.

You've just given praise to the two biggest ticket items for me in terms of reasons to want to own an HDTV! :)

Movies look good (upconverting dvd player) and HD varies. All in all though, some, including myself, are happy with the gx86.

I don't even own an XBox 360 yet, and already I can tell that I'm going to be disappointed that it doesn't upconvert movies to HD. I guess I can live with that. Let me ask you this though... do movies, in general, not look good on a big screen HDTV running in 480p? This seems to be a common complaint. I have a Toshiba 32A35 SDTV. To put things in perspective, re. my expectations, I'm impressed with how good movies being played by my standard XBox look over this set in 480i. I may be easier to please than a lot of the more hardened videophiles here ;)

You've just given praise to the two biggest ticket items for me in terms of reasons to want to own an HDTV! :)

Same here.


don't even own an XBox 360 yet, and already I can tell that I'm going to be disappointed that it doesn't upconvert movies to HD. I guess I can live with that. Let me ask you this though... do movies, in general, not look good on a big screen HDTV running in 480p? This seems to be a common complaint. I have a Toshiba 32A35 SDTV. To put things in perspective, re. my expectations, I'm impressed with how good movies being played my my standard XBox look over this set in 480i. I may be easier to please than a lot of the more hardened videophiles here ;)

Talk of an HD-DVD add on in future. Public acceptance format still undecided. Downloaded movie trailers (720p) are fantastic. DVD's don't look bad but look better on upconverting player. I, like yourself, am easier to please as well. Watching the 52" prices come around the $2k and under pain threshold is interesting. Expect clearances q2 and 3 of this year on all 720p sets as they're moved out of inventory, more or less.

*edit* Just saw this surfing...

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/cgi-bin/shootout.cgi?function=search&articles=125#MicrosoftXbox%20360%20(Component)

thanks duff man for the response. I tired adjusting the STB output signal, but the best it will do is dark grey side bars. I also noticed that it seems to depend on the channel. Showtime's Penn and Teller's BS is broadcast in a 4:3 format with black side bars.

To reiterate what was stated in the past few posts, xbox 360 is spectacular on this set (i have the 56" version). HDTV depends on the channel, and DVD PQ also seem to vary through my Samsung upcpnverting DVD player (i have the output set on 720p). However, SD for the most part is lacking.

Does anyone know if SD looks better on the 1080p JVC set? Best Buy has reduced the price on the 720p set, again. I am still undecided as to whether or not I want to return it and wait for the 1080p model to become available locally, or just get a price adjustment.

To reiterate what was stated in the past few posts, xbox 360 is spectacular on this set (i have the 56" version). HDTV depends on the channel, and DVD PQ also seem to vary through my Samsung upcpnverting DVD player (i have the output set on 720p). However, SD for the most part is lacking.

As an aspiring XBox 360 owner (mid-March, I'm estimating), this is more reassurance to hear. However, I also have a sense that the majority of my broadcast viewing is going to be in SD format. If SD is as bad as many of you seem to suggest on the Gx86 series, I may not be satisfied with this set. Best Buy couldn't (or wouldn't) do anything to allow me to see what an SD broadcast looked like on this set. Were they trying to hide something, or is their display configuration such that it's physically impossible?

I'm going to have to see what an SD broadcast looks like on this set before I can make the decision to buy it. Now I've got to find a dealer within driving range who is willing to demonstrate the set in SD.

Does anyone know if SD looks better on the 1080p JVC set?

Good question... anxious to see what sort of response you get on this.

...I'm having a lot of second thoughts about this series now. I'd really like to see JVC lick these bulb performance problems before I make a purchase

I sympathize. Back in October when I was making up my mind I did a last check of the forums and newsgroups for complaints about lamps and other problems and finding few, went ahead. So far I haven't had any problems (after about a thousand hours) but if I'd seen this bunch of reports I'd definitely have been nervous.

Nevertheless, it's hard to know how to interpret them. There's maybe a dozen people in this forum reporting lamp and light engine failures (primarily the lamp). But we don't know how many owners are hanging around the forum and haven't joined in because they have nothing to complain about. It's known that for every person like ourselves who posts, there are many times more people who just read (called "lurkers"). So it's hard to infer percentages.

One other thing. I wouldn't consider Sony an automatic refuge from problems. A10s and A20s were also on my short list so the Sony Canada website is in my favourites list. Just for fun I visited it yesterday and lo and behold, replacement lamps for these sets are on a week's backorder!

Overall, my feeling is that the second gen D-ILAs are so good that I'd probably buy my set again, even considering the risk.

Dave, you make a very valid point (and thanks btw!). Human nature is to complain when something is wrong, but not to praise when something is right. I certainly don't fault those who are coming here and registering their complaints about the Z/Gx86 series. Their issues are valid and definitely worth considering. It is difficult to determine how representative their experience is, however.

I thought the best thing to do was to read some of the consumer reviews of this series on customer review sites, but there are relatively few of them to be found.... not enough for me to draw a conclusion.

Presently, my three biggest concerns with the HD-52G786 are:

1.) Limited bulb life
2.) Unacceptable SD broadcast image quality
3.) Muddy/artifact riddled black level performance.

All of these seem to be common themes on the two lengthiest threads I've read on this series (here and at Ecoustics). I have the dubious luxury of not being in a position to buy one until May, so I've got plenty of time to resolve these questions, and consider the 1080p generation, along with OLED technology, which I still haven't written off in spite of the criticisms leveled against it by some anally retentive CES attendees ;)

Here are a few more to add to your list.

Variable amounts of CA: many are so bad that even the HD picture is quite blurry in comparison to most DLP and LCD RP.

Horizontal / Vertical Ghosting: Leads to the "soft picture" which some folks may be fooled into believing is an LCOS "benefit". Definition is the key word in "high definition"- less definition means less HD quality. If I wanted a softer picture, I would prefer the option of just turning the detail down rather than having it done for me by design flaws. The ghosting is easily detected, as it is quite apparent next to the cards in the poker matches on INHD2.

Color purity issues. Nearly all Gx86 sets have at least some issues here, some so bad they get returned immediatly. More apparent on a very light screen such as snow typical of a ski show. I know you don't eat yellow snow, but what about the green snow or pink snow in the corners?

No settings retained for input/resolution combinations like the real HDTV's have. If you like to constantly adjust your picture settings, then perhaps this set is for you. :) At least they include the dynamic gamma DEMO right in the user menu, where would we be without that?

Fancy features like Digital Noise Clear, which actually does nothing more than one cannot achieve by offsetting the detail a few notches. Wow.. I have seen what a "real" digital noise filter does, the Toshiba set I tried out had one that cleaned up a bad SD picture quite well.

A remote that makes you laugh it's so cheap and nonfunctional; no direct input selection, small buttons that are nearly all the same shape, and a very bad overall design. The luminescence is useless as it only lights the buttons, so you cannot read the button function in the dark.

Lackluster processor performance that results in what appears to be noise blocking similar to a lower bitrate feed. Most noticeable during complicated scenes with lots of motion, strobing light, etc. Although this is evident on many digital displays, the JVC Gx86 takes this issue to a horrible new level.

A ridiculous implementation of HDMI security that can cause issues with certain components/STB/etc. The HDMI security system can even be triggered if you look at it wrong (using a flashlight to inspect the back of the set can trip the HDMI anti-tamper light sensor). :)
Another example here is an HDCP sync issue with having the STB already turned on when you switch on the set, some very interesting effects from that one. The HDMI system also has a very high rate of failure on the Gx86 models.

A very "tacked on" implementation of the ATSC/QAM tuner. You have to switch betwen NTSC and ATSC from the remote. This is not typical of most HDTV's which have the two tuners seemlessly integrated.

I call it my "heath kit" TV, since it has all the build quality of the radio shack assemble yourself heath kits of my youth.

Here are a few more to add to your list.

Variable amounts of CA: many are so bad that even the HD picture is quite blurry in comparison to most DLP and LCD RP.

Horizontal Ghosting: Leads to the "soft picture" which some folks may be fooled into believing is an LCOS "benefit". Definition is the key word in "high definition"- less definition means less HD quality. The ghosting is easily detected, as it is quite apparent next to the cards in the poker matches on INHD2.

These are two phenomena that I haven't trained myself to look for. I will pay attention to each the next trip out.

Color purity issues. Nearly all sets have at least some issues here, some so bad they get returned immediatly. More apparent on a very light screen such as snow typical of a ski show. I know you don't eat yellow snow, but what about the green snow or pink snow in the corners?

I've seen this on both the DLP and LCD projection sets I've seen also. Due to the viewing angle I had with the JVC at Best Buy, I had a harder time making a fair comparison between it and the others in this vein.

No settings retained for input/resolution combinations like the real HDTV's have.

Okay, I'm an HDTV greenhorn, and probably a bit naive as well... are you saying the at the JVC Z/Gx86's are not truly HDTV, or is your use of the term "real" your way of saying you don't think they are deserving of the term?

If you like to constantly adjust your picture settings, then perhaps this set is for you. :) At least they include the dynamic gamma DEMO right in the user menu, where would we be without that?

I hate to admit this, but I'm probably one of those rare, obsessive individuals who can't resist fiddling with control. This probably wouldn't bother me, but I can see why this would be a detriment to many.

Fancy features like Digital Noise Clear, which actually does nothing more than one cannot achieve by offsetting the detail a few notches. Wow.. I have seen what a "real" digital noise filter does, the Toshiba set I tried out had one that cleaned up a bad SD picture quite well.

You've got me interested... which Toshiba set are you speaking of here?

A remote that makes you laugh it's so cheap and nonfunctional; no direct input selection, small buttons that are nearly all the same shape, and a very bad overall design. The luminescence is useless as it only lights the buttons, so you cannot read the button function in the dark.

LOL... I've got a JVC AV32120 (32" CRT), so I know what crappy remotes are all about. It's held together with duct tape, but I still manage to use it semi-proficiently. I have to... 5 of the 7 cheap-a$$ mechanical buttons on the set have broken! Can't even turn it on and off without the remote :)

Lackluster processor performance that results in what appears to be noise blocking similar to a lower bitrate feed. Most noticeable during complicated scenes with lots of motion, strobing light, etc. Although this is evident on many digital displays, the JVC Gx86 takes this issue to a horrible new level.

This would be of concern to me as a video gamer.

A ridiculous implementation of HDMI security that can cause issues with certain components/STB/etc. There are reports that the HDMI security system can even be triggered if you look at it wrong (using a flashlight to inspect the back of the set). :) Another example here is an issue with having the STB already turned on when you switch on the set, some very interesting effects from that one. The HDMI system also has a very high rate of failure on the Gx86 models.

I can't discuss this intelligently with you at this point. I'll definitely do some research into it though.

I call it my "heath kit" TV, since it has all the quality of the radio shack assemble yourself heath kits of my youth.

Dang it... you've done a good job of disuading me from buying this system until you mentioned this! I'm a Heath Kit junkie from way back - this sounds like nirvana to me now!! :D

Seriously... I can relate to your comments about construction quality and remote design. I've had to do some highly unconventional repairs to my JVC AV32120 to keep it going. I've also replaced 2 diodes, a 1000 mfd capacitor, and an audio control IC in its 4 year life. Yet right now, I would stack its picture quality up against any non-Sony CRT in it's size. Guests often comment on the quality of the picture on this set.

Having said all of this, I'm not typical of the average consumer. I'm willing to go extra lengths to work around problems, as long as the end result it worth my efforts. However, some of the problems you are laying out are going to be insurmountable. As I said in an earlier post though, I'm not as demanding about picture quality as a lot of you, nor am I as keen on observing the conditions you've described. I want to look at this set again, looking for the problems you've found, and see if they register with me.

The recent $500 price drop might put the 50" Sony SXRD in my budget. I had no difficulty in seeing that this set was markedly superior to every other projection set I've seen. Only the price tag has removed it from further consideration, at least up until now. Maybe by May, Sony will have released a non-Dumbo version of this set by then, and I'll find it even more enticing!

Ok I am stumbled here. I had my tuner board and my hdmi board replaced so far in this set. I just noticed yesterday that when I went into the service menu my drives are at 128. I then changed them back to where they were when I bought the set and today they were back to 128. I think it is happening on power off.

Another thing. When the tech replaced the hdmi board the first thing I noticed was that when he turned the set back on the blue light and the flashing light doesn't come on until about 30 seconds after the set is powered on. Before it would come on right away.

I also have a cable card installed in the set. There wouldn't be any type of problem causing the RGB to reset each night I turn it off.

I also notice on a white screen I have splotches in various areas and if I am watching stuff with lots of white like skiing and other various white sceens they are irritating as hell. I sure as heck dont want the same guy comming out again as I don't think he knows his sh!t.

These are two phenomena that I haven't trained myself to look for. I will pay attention to each the next trip out.

It is really hard to compare picture quality without a set of standardized screen displays. It may be worth it to carry a calibration DVD disk such as the Avia with you just for the test patterns they offer. A cross hatch will reveal the horizontal and vertical ghosting, and a pattern will show its effects on resolution quality. I used some free test pattern generator software (http://www.idk-tech.com/products/techpcvg.html) on my HTPC to compare various sets that I tried out in my home. With the vertical line pattern for example, I had to increase the width of the lines to "2" before the JVC would even resolve a pattern. The other sets I tried out could resolve this same pattern using the default (1 X 1 settings).
CA can be detected by looking closely at the screen, some magenta and green ghosting will appear which is typically at least 1 pixel in width. Anything more than 2 pixel widths of CA would be unacceptable, as it would have a severe impact on picture quality.

I've seen this on both the DLP and LCD projection sets I've seen also. Due to the viewing angle I had with the JVC at Best Buy, I had a harder time making a fair comparison between it and the others in this vein. I do not believe that color purity is much of an issue with DLP, but it certainly can be with the LCD RP sets. The panasonic LCD RP sets I tried out were quite bad here also. Silk screen effect was the deal killer for me as far LCD RP goes, not that the JVC does not have its share of SSE, but its certainly at a more acceptable level.



Okay, I'm an HDTV greenhorn, and probably a bit naive as well... are you saying the at the JVC Z/Gx86's are not truly HDTV, or is your use of the term "real" your way of saying you don't think they are deserving of the term? If we look at the term high definition, it does not really relate how high this needs to be to be in order for it to meet this criterion. Compared to a high end plasma (>$10k) it would not, but it is certainly better than the SD picture of the old tube crt I owned when a "very good" HD signal is being displayed. I would rate the JVC's HD picture somewhere at the "lower" end between that offered by the HD display from an ultra high end plasma and DVD quality from a standard crt tube display.



I hate to admit this, but I'm probably one of those rare, obsessive individuals who can't resist fiddling with control. This probably wouldn't bother me, but I can see why this would be a detriment to many.? A set that does this right will seem to precisely learn your viewing preferences as you watch/adjust the set in the various input modes. Sets like the Toshiba and Panasonic would switch modes (from standard to game mode for example) depending on which mode I had previously selected when the input was last displayed.



You've got me interested... which Toshiba set are you speaking of here?
I tried out the Toshiba HM95 DLP, as well as Panasonic LCD's which included the PT-52LCX and two different PT-50LC14's. It took three different Gx86's before I finally decided to keep one and just deal with its particular issues through service calls.



LOL... I've got a JVC AV32120 (32" CRT), so I know what crappy remotes are all about. I had an ancient JVC 27" tube set and the remote that came with it had a cheap mechanical slide switch switch on it. Although this was considered acceptable back then, I simply cant believe that JVC had the nerve to use two of these cheapo switches on the remotes they provide now. Although it can be said that most will prefer to use a more advanced universal remote with their HT system, it is nice for this to be an option rather than a must have. If the quality and design of the included remote says anything about the overall quality and design of the set itself, we are all in some deep dodo.



This would be of concern to me as a video gamer. I do not notice this issue much on games I play from my HTPC. It is likely something to due with the processor used for digital HD video. It is also not evident on SD TV and less apparent on a DVD display. I am sure that HD-DVD and BR will reveal the shortcommings of many sets that were once attributed to low bitrate feeds.


Dang it... you've done a good job of disuading me from buying this system until you mentioned this! I'm a Heath Kit junkie from way back - this sounds like nirvana to me now!! :D
Probably not, as you just payed over $2k for the preassembled kit. :)

It seems to me that all HDTV's available now have pretty severe shortcommings. Technical limitations and substandard QC can make buying an HDTV a very big gamble no matter which set you choose. If your primary viewing habit is movies, you should likely choose something else, as there really is not enough HD movie content available right now to even justify the purchase of an HDTV. Consider that the programs you watch now in SD will become nearly unwatchable on the JVC and you will know what I mean. Perhaps it has something to do with the HD picture (i.e. becoming spoiled), but I frequently long for my old 27" crt when a good show comes on an SD channel, so I doubt that this is the case with me. I truely hope that the proliferation of HD-DVD and BR will change this sitution, because the cable and sat providers surely do not seem to be at all motivated into extending their current HD offerings.

THANK YOU DUFF MAN!!! I have thesame box as you and make the change and now I have black bars...great.

Now, one question: When I got into this menu, I also saw that I have a choice of 1080 or 720 output. It was set at 1080. I switched to 720 and it seems a little crisper/grainier but that very well could be my imagination. Does it make a difference how this is set? Does the set have to "downconvert" the 1080 output?

You know, this might just be why my HDMI input worked before, but no longer. I know I've used a flashlight (really bright white LED one too) to see where to plug something in, so I may have triggered the anti-tamper sensor. My screen goes black, not green, so I never suspected that was the cause. I'll give the reset a shot and see how that works.

The HDMI security system can even be triggered if you look at it wrong (using a flashlight to inspect the back of the set can trip the HDMI anti-tamper light sensor)

Here's the trick for fixing your power light problem, which I learned from another Forum member, Wishfull1:

Enter the service menu, press 1 for adjust. Scroll to setting "S039", it should be "ILA COM". If the value is "1" make "+00" press mute to save. Power down, power up.



Another thing. When the tech replaced the hdmi board the first thing I noticed was that when he turned the set back on the blue light and the flashing light doesn't come on until about 30 seconds after the set is powered on. Before it would come on right away. .

...the programs you watch now in SD will become nearly unwatchable on the JVC...

This is so contrary to my experience that I wonder if we're living on the same planet. I am using Bell Expressvu (Canadian satellite). Where does your SD signal come from?

I'm not going to get into long technical arguments with you, but I checked out your first items (ghosting and CA) on HD. My vision is very good because I've had cataract surgery. The ghosting on my set is no more than one pixel wide, and the CA just barely visible no matter how close I get. Neither of these can have the slightest relevance at normal viewing distance.

In sum, I cannot accept your criteria as constituting a criticism of the PQ on my set at least.

Just got my 52" on Saturday, and I've been mostly pleased with it so far.

Have to agree with the assessment that SD looks horrible on this set. Adjusting the noise reduction seems to help a bit, but it still looks bad. I'd consider returning the set for this reason, but I don't watch enough TV for it be a real problem. I can get most of what I want to see in HD.

Switching inputs is a pain, and constantly having to adjust picture settings is frustrating. However, I can't complain about PQ with HD content or from the Oppo. And hooking the SNES up via composite looks great as well. Still waiting on my component cable for the Gamecube.

I'm currently using a Comcast STB with built-in DVR connected to the HDMI. Another frustration with this setup, and I don't know whether to blame the box or the set, is that whenever I use the DVR functions to pause, FF, etc, the HDMI signal is lost for a few seconds. Anyone else experience this?

The ghosting on my set is no more than one pixel wide, and the CA just barely visible no matter how close I get. Neither of these can have the slightest relevance at normal viewing distance.

I am afraid that is where you are wrong here. Any amount of ghosting at all will cause picture quality degradation. If you want to see the real amount of ghosting present, you really need to put up some type of cross hatch pattern. Just viewing an HD presentation is not going to reveal it at all beyond the substandard (i.e. soft) HD image that results. I mentioned the cards on the poker match since that happens to be one situation where it will be quite evident. The fact that the poker card against the green backdrop reveals this so well is just something I happened upon myself as I knew exactly what to look for. I do not see where you get from my post that you can simply look at an HD display with any old program showing and detect these issues. I certainly hope I did not state anything that would lead one to believe this.
Anyone that has hooked an HTPC up to these sets can tell you about the ghosting that is present. For example, the vertical seperator bars in IE display it quite well, almost as if there were more than one line, which is simply not how it appears normally. I have tried out three different Gx86 sets, (issue present on each one), so it is quite unlikely that this is some type of QC defect. As I also pointed out, the DLP and both LCD RP sets were able to resolve a one pixel space by one pixel line width vertical grid perfectly; none of the 3 JVC Gx86's were capable of doing this. This was a direct result of the ghosting present in the JVC LCOS technology, as the ghost image overlapped the line entirely.

CA typically increases as you move from the center of the screen. Unlike the ghosting I describe, this does vary between sets. If you got a good one then you should consider yourself lucky, as the only rectification is a light engine replacement, and it is unlikely that JVC would replace it without a lot of heartache in this instance (i.e. excessive CA).

Although not my favorite technology, LCD RP has neither of these issues, and the picture (behind all of that SSE) is almost perfect.

Just got my 52" on Saturday, and I've been mostly pleased with it so far.

Have to agree with the assessment that SD looks horrible on this set. Adjusting the noise reduction seems to help a bit, but it still looks bad. I'd consider returning the set for this reason, but I don't watch enough TV for it be a real problem. I can get most of what I want to see in HD.

Switching inputs is a pain, and constantly having to adjust picture settings is frustrating. However, I can't complain about PQ with HD content or from the Oppo. And hooking the SNES up via composite looks great as well. Still waiting on my component cable for the Gamecube.

I'm currently using a Comcast STB with built-in DVR connected to the HDMI. Another frustration with this setup, and I don't know whether to blame the box or the set, is that whenever I use the DVR functions to pause, FF, etc, the HDMI signal is lost for a few seconds. Anyone else experience this?

You can thank the nice hollywood studios for this. It is the hdmi itself. This copy protection is just too far. In fact I have made up my mind not to buy any hd player for quite some time. I just figure I will use my dvr to get my movies off of hbo,starz and max.

fatcatfan, davegow, and Mechanic... I want to thank each of you for your input on this. You're all giving me a pretty broad sense of the pros and cons of this the HD-ILA. I can already admit that my eyes and perception are not going to be as keen as Mechanic's, but I appreciate his informed analysis of the issues with this set.

I'm really interested in seeing what I can do with SD broadcast and the HD-52G786. I have a hunch that I'll be watching more SD than I'd originally estimated. I'm reading all sorts of tweaks, adjustments, filters, etc, that are at my disposal. Will I be able to get any satisfaction out of SD broadcasts via cable TV? Are there external devices that I could use to condition, upgrade, or convert SD to something that would look better on this set?

Ok I am stumbled here. I had my tuner board and my hdmi board replaced so far in this set. I just noticed yesterday that when I went into the service menu my drives are at 128. I then changed them back to where they were when I bought the set and today they were back to 128. I think it is happening on power off.

Another thing. When the tech replaced the hdmi board the first thing I noticed was that when he turned the set back on the blue light and the flashing light doesn't come on until about 30 seconds after the set is powered on. Before it would come on right away.

I also have a cable card installed in the set. There wouldn't be any type of problem causing the RGB to reset each night I turn it off.

I also notice on a white screen I have splotches in various areas and if I am watching stuff with lots of white like skiing and other various white sceens they are irritating as hell. I sure as heck dont want the same guy comming out again as I don't think he knows his sh!t.

Ok I went in and changed the com setting from 1 to 00 and now my lights flash upon turning it on. I just can't figure out what is making my drive settings default back to 128 for RGB each time I power it on. The thing that scares me is what would I have done if it was calibrated and now it is all gone. I am afraid that those are not the only settings that have changed since I have had the tuner board and the hdmi board replaced. As far as I am concerned I think that JVC needs to send a person out to recalibrate the whole thing. I mean the way it is now is not the way it came out of the factory. I did happen to write down my original RGB drive settings and they are not even close to the default of 128. With the 128 settings they are unwatchable to me.

The fact that at least two different settings have changed out of the two I know makes one believe they all changed.

THANK YOU DUFF MAN!!! I have thesame box as you and make the change and now I have black bars...great.

Now, one question: When I got into this menu, I also saw that I have a choice of 1080 or 720 output. It was set at 1080. I switched to 720 and it seems a little crisper/grainier but that very well could be my imagination. Does it make a difference how this is set? Does the set have to "downconvert" the 1080 output?

Glad to see it worked for you.

I am in no way an expert on these things. I just stumbled on this. Out of nowhere the cable box menu came up, so I started playing with it. Mine was also set to 1080i. I also changed the input to 720p because I figured it would work best with the set because it's resolution is 720p. To be honest, I didn't notice a difference and haven't changed it back.

Just got my 52" on Saturday, ...
Have to agree with the assessment that SD looks horrible on this set. ...

As I said in my reply to Mechanic, my satellite reception gives me a quite satisfactory PQ, certainly much better than I saw on my 6-year old Trinitron. So I'll ask you the same question I asked him (and he avoided answering). What is your source of SD?

Glad to see it worked for you.

I am in no way an expert on these things. I just stumbled on this. Out of nowhere the cable box menu came up, so I started playing with it. Mine was also set to 1080i. I also changed the input to 720p because I figured it would work best with the set because it's resolution is 720p. To be honest, I didn't notice a difference and haven't changed it back.

You might notice a difference watching some HD content. I leave mine set at 1080i, so that the set scales, rather than the box. But if the HD channel is actually in 780p, it's probably better switch the box to that instead. *shrug* at least I can tell a difference. With ESPN, I set the box for 1080i. If I notice jerky motion/panning with another channel, I switch to 720p and it seems to fix it.


davegow,
I have Comcast "Digital" cable, via a STB. I'll admit, part of the problem certainly has to do with their signal. From some other comments I've come across in this thread, I might be better off with a cable card. Today, for comparison, I connected an old 480i dvd player via composite on the side input. Played "Harvey". It honestly didn't look too bad, but still a bit fuzzy compared to the same DVD played through the Oppo. Also, if I increase my viewing distance by a few feet, the SD problems seem to vanish.

On a side note, I didn't notice any problems with the grays while watching Harvey.

Glad to see it worked for you.

I am in no way an expert on these things. I just stumbled on this. Out of nowhere the cable box menu came up, so I started playing with it. Mine was also set to 1080i. I also changed the input to 720p because I figured it would work best with the set because it's resolution is 720p. To be honest, I didn't notice a difference and haven't changed it back.


I found out about the cable box menu on my Motorola 6412 accidently too... thankfully a week before I got my new TV... I had it because it was a DVR... my old TV wasn't HDTV. I found that when I had the cable box power in the off mode and then hit the menu button on the remote, I'd get the output control menu.

I mentioned trying Duff Man's solution, but neglected to included the STB model.

On the Scientific America HD8000 Explorer DVR model all you have to do is press the settings button on the remote and then press "A" for more settings. You will see the Output option by scrolling down through a few items. It actually allows you to select multiple output formats. I select 480p, 720p, and 1080i. The only difference i can tell by selecting all three is that the side bars on 4:3 programs are dark grey if 480p is one of the selections. If I only choose 720p the side bars are light grey.

It is really hard to compare picture quality without a set of standardized screen displays. It may be worth it to carry a calibration DVD disk such as the Avia with you just for the test patterns they offer. A cross hatch will reveal the horizontal and vertical ghosting, and a pattern will show its effects on resolution quality. I used some free test pattern generator software (http://www.idk-tech.com/products/techpcvg.html) on my HTPC to compare various sets that I tried out in my home. With the vertical line pattern for example, I had to increase the width of the lines to "2" before the JVC would even resolve a pattern. The other sets I tried out could resolve this same pattern using the default (1 X 1 settings).
CA can be detected by looking closely at the screen, some magenta and green ghosting will appear which is typically at least 1 pixel in width. Anything more than 2 pixel widths of CA would be unacceptable, as it would have a severe impact on picture quality.




Mechanic,... Can you please expand (post) on what kind of card/hardware/cables, and video timings /setttings you are using.

Like many people here I'm wanting to build a HD- HTPC. I haven't seen many posts in which they got an HTPC to work with the JVC D-ILA series correctly. (especially via the HDMI input).

As a side note, if you're "listening" JVC, this is 2006, and alot of people are interested in building a HD-HTPC... These sets don't burn-in like the crt sets of old, and other mfg's models on the market so there is a huge pent up market out there for people who ARE looking to integrate these days. I think you are missing the "mark", by not providing such info to your consumers. I know that "supporting" such sets-up would not be an option, but you could at least publish/print the settings the set is "looking-for".

PS , Mechanic: Thanks for posting the link to the free test pattern generator software!

I was so ready to pull the trigger on one of these but after reading through this its a no go for me. I was going to replace a 50A10 that I got last week that I can stand due to the SSE and the green glob.

It would seem that I am running out of choice...I guess I have to look at the 1080p sets now but I didnt want to go there as this is only a bedroom TV...

I have an XBR850 in the living rm that is tweaked to perfection that the A10 doesnt even come close to...So I want at least the same performance level...

Are the JVC Pro's set having the same issue as the 720p's?

Mechanic,... Can you please expand (post) on what kind of card/hardware/cables, and video timings /setttings you are using.

Like many people here I'm wanting to build a HD- HTPC. I haven't seen many posts in which they got an HTPC to work with the JVC D-ILA series correctly. (especially via the HDMI input).


I run component from a PNY nVidia 6200 (http://www.compusa.com/products/product_info.asp?product_code=319997&pfp=BROWSE) using the included dongle. Some cards do not have component support so that particular one was a good choice for me. The nVidia cards with the latest drivers handle HDTV's like they were made for just that purpose. The nVidia driver software simply adjusts the timing/res to remove overscan, just a few mouse clicks and its done.

I have also tried out the DVI to HDMI approach with this card, but I was unable to obtain true 1:1 mapping, so I gave up on that idea. Without 1:1, the text quality using the HDMI input was simply garbage.
With the card connected via component the picture is quite acceptable, but ghosting is an issue with either method.
I play a bit of BF2 in wide screen and really enjoy the PC display quality that this setup delivers for that type of use. If the ghosting were not so bad it would be much better for other functions important to me such as web surfing and programming. Its my primary system, as I like working from the comfort of my couch - typing this on it of course. If it were not for my extensive HTPC requirements with its high potential for burn-in, I would have bought a plasma, but the Gx86 is not a bad system for me as I seen rainbows like I was on some kind of illegal drug when I tried DLP.

Mechanic, having gained a lot of respect for your opinions and candor, I'd like to ask you the following question: faced with the following choices, which would you buy - a JVC HD-52G786 at $1,999.95, with custom JVC stand, or a Sony SXRD 50" at $2,999.95, with no stand. I should add that there would be no tax on the JVC purchase, whereas I would be paying $180 tax on the Sony purchase.

Thanks!

A remote that makes you laugh it's so cheap and nonfunctional; no direct input selection, small buttons that are nearly all the same shape, and a very bad overall design. The luminescence is useless as it only lights the buttons, so you cannot read the button function in the dark. As mentioned eariler, a $20 OneForAll remote with direct input select solves most of that!

OnlookerDelay; or the HD-56FH96 for $32xx.......................

If you are not into the HTPC thing, I would go with a plasma or the very best CRT-RP I could get my hands on. There are so many factors such as viewing distance and habits that it is hard for anyone to recommend what is right for you, but microchip display technology is still rather new, and I expect things to improve drastically over the next few years. Heck, imagine a 60" flat panel lcd with some godly refresh rate for the same price you would pay for a 50" SXRD now. So, I think one simply need ask themselves what will suffice for time being, as most of these sets are not designed for extensive longevity anyway.
In any event, I think it is important to purchase from a vendor that offers a very good return/exhange policy, since QC seems to be lacking across all mfg's right now. I prefer purchasing from a B&M and I also have them deliver it. That way if something is wrong initially, "they" come and swap the set out, saving me much heartache - I am just not into shipping things the size of an HDTV around the country.
If this were a decision between two comparibly priced LCOS 720p sets, I would certainly go with the Sony. The $1k difference in price could also be justified by the Sony's 1080p resolution along with black level improvments, etc. Dont count out DLP if you are not suseptable to rainbow effect, they typically offer a superb picture for your dollar. The Toshiba 1080p DLP seems to be quite a bargain, and Toshiba actually has their act together as far as user interface and build quality is concerned. When was the last time you heard of either Sony or JVC offering a software flash update? A mfg that offers fixes for the little bugs that may have occurred along with interface improvments to their existing line, demands more respect than those that really only care about how well their latest offering does on the showroom floor.

As mentioned eariler, a $20 OneForAll remote with direct input select solves most of that!

Most folks expect to recieve a real remote when they spend over $2k for an HDTV. The fact that one can rectify the situation is obvious. The concern is the very fact that they would ship such a POS with their sets, which has not changed much with their latest $3k 1080p set. If they go to such extreme to cut corners here, where else have they done this? For example, I bet it seems much more advantagous to JVC to equip their sets with a cheaper lamp that happens to fail much faster than advertised, then it would be to use a more expensive lamp that lasts much longer. Not only would this offer a competitive price advantage initially, the revenue from out of warranty lamp replacement would be quite extensive. The few lamps they would have to replace under warranty would be nothing in comparison to the potential future profit.

You are as much 'pissed off' as I was at Mits regarding the 4x3 cut off sides deal......... :mad:

I understand. Too bad that isn't the only issue.

I not really pissed off in any way, I use a Harmony 880 to achieve what I need there. I do however think it important for potential buyers to know these shortcommings before making a >$2k purchase.
If unbiased feedback from a current owner is not important here, then I would happily spend my time doing something else. :)
One thing that does get to me is that it seems all of the microchip display mfg's are raping their customers; near nonexistant QC, bad build quality, and tech limitations abound. Then you get to deal with the fact that the cable and sat providers seem to have such a negative atttitude towards expansion of their current HD offerings. Mainstream HD transmission technology has been in effect for eight years now, do we really want to wait for the next century to arrive before all channels are broadcast HD? By the time this happens, the program content will have degraded to 98% infomercials, its well on its way now. :(

I agree with most of what you say, but this industry is still in its infancy. I have owned my 56G since last August and love it. Of course, this is my first wide-screen HD TV so everything looks great to me. Yes, I have had problems with it, but they have been resolved. Having said that, I don’t know how people can buy these TVs without first having read forums such as this. To the average consumer these TVs are technical and complicated, and we are not educated by the dealers, manufacturers or the government.
esteps


I not really pissed off in any way, I use a Harmony 880 to achieve what I need there. I do however think it important for potential buyers to know these shortcommings before making a >$2k purchase.
If unbiased feedback from a current owner is not important here, then I would happily spend my time doing something else. :)
One thing that does get to me is that it seems all of the microchip display mfg's are raping their customers; near nonexistant QC, bad build quality, and tech limitations abound. Then you get to deal with the fact that the cable and sat providers seem to have such a negative atttitude towards expansion of their current HD offerings. Mainstream HD transmission technology has been in effect for eight years now, do we really want to wait for the next century to arrive before all channels are broadcast HD? By the time this happens, the program content will have degraded to 98% infomercials, its well on its way now. :(

I have been mostly a lurker here, only posting a few times. I wanted to pass along my thoughts and experiences.

I bought my HD-56G786 in early October, 2005.

HD broadcasts - I use the ATSC tuner in the set and receive OTA HD. I do not use any STB. After resolving some antenna issues, I now am able to view HD on ABC, NBC, CBS, FOX, and PBS OTA. I am absolutely satisfied with the HD picture on this set over the air. I watch a lot of sports and football is particularly stunning on ABC and FOX (720p). I have found a small amount of blurring in motion scenes on CBS - still a great picture though - not sure if this is the source (1080i ota) or the set. Other HD broadcasts (movies, tv shows like ER) are very good imo. Black levels not perfect, but good. I would like to calibrate using a test signal, but there is no access to one for me. I may try HD via COX in the future.

DVD - I have a Pioneer 588A (component hookup) - after reading about the macroblocking issues and other hdmi problems, I decided not to go with an upconverting player. I calibrated with DVE and I am very satisfied with all the DVDs I have watched on this set. I think the picture via DVD (480p) is outstanding - I cannot imagine it being any better on an upconverting player, but I could be wrong. Black levels are not perfect, but the colors, detail, and overall pq are outstanding imo. I have read about others being un-satisfied with DVD on this set, and I just wanted to say that it is very good on mine.

SD broadcasts - I did not purchase this set to watch SD (cable - via COX). I have found some channels are watchable and others are not. I have had mixed results with the aspect settings - panorama seems to be the best overall, but again, I get different results on different channels. Overall, I am not happy with SD via cable on this set, but I am not surprised. I had researched this ahead of time and found that large projection do not generally display SD very well. This set is no exception.

Remote - I agree with many of the criticisms of the remote - it is not the best, but it works for me. Changing inputs is a pain.

Bulb - I have about 550 hours on the bulb and it is still going - I expect it to fail soon, given the experience of others, but if it does, then I expect to get a replacement under warranty. I am not happy about the potential of this, but if that is the worst problem I have, then I can deal with it.

Overall opinion - I had researched LCD, CRT, and DLP sets before purchasing this set. All sets have their pluses and minuses. I knew I was giving up the very best black levels, but I felt this set had the best overall picture (imo) I had seen at the time. Since my purchase, I have seen the SXRD and it is very impressive (but it costs significantly more). All things considered, I am happy with my purchase, and would do it again.

Thanks for all the information here.

I dont think I could live with just locals in HD. An HD cable box will at least get you a couple of decent HD channels; Discovery HD Theatre along with INHD 1&2 for example. I get TNT-HD in addition to these, although I do not rate TNT-HD as a real asset (they do have an occasional good movie in their programming lineup, but not much). IMO, the only way to truely appreciate the HD that the Gx86 is capable of is from the premium channels. Cinemax-HD, Showtime-HD, etc. Not exactly a good value for the money as you only get one channel in HD, but the Gx86 is VERY dependent on signal and presentation quality, and the best I have obtained here is most definately from the premium HD channels.

I think overall satisfaction will depend on how keen your eye really is. I can spot the ghosting with the DVD player I use, and although its just a cheap a Norcent 501 via component, it does produce a near perfect signal on other sets I have tried. Like I say, unless you want to display a few grid patterns, you would likely never be aware that the ghosting issue is even present. The important point is that it degrades overall image quality, which is something that concerns me.

Oh yes, I am very frustrated with the lack of HD, especially after viewing it on an OTA. But now DISH will offer 25 HD channels (most of them VOOM) on Feb. 1. Finally, some progress.
esteps

I dont think I could live with just locals in HD. An HD cable box will at least get you a couple of decent HD channels; Discovery HD Theatre along with INHD 1&2 for example. I get TNT-HD in addition to these, although I do not rate TNT-HD as a real asset (they do have an occasional good movie in their programming lineup, but not much). IMO, the only way to truely appreciate the HD that the Gx86 is capable of is from the premium channels. Cinemax-HD, Showtime-HD, etc. Not exactly a good value for the money as you only get one channel in HD, but the Gx86 is VERY dependent on signal and presentation quality, and the best I have obtained here is most definately from the premium HD channels.

I dont think I could live with just locals in HD. An HD cable box will at least get you a couple of decent HD channels; Discovery HD Theatre along with INHD 1&2 for example. I get TNT-HD in addition to these, although I do not rate TNT-HD as a real asset (they do have an occasional good movie in their programming lineup, but not much). IMO, the only way to truely appreciate the HD that the Gx86 is capable of is from the premium channels. Cinemax-HD, Showtime-HD, etc. Not exactly a good value for the money as you only get one channel in HD, but the Gx86 is VERY dependent on signal and presentation quality, and the best I have obtained here is most definately from the premium HD channels.

I think overall satisfaction will depend on how keen your eye really is. I can spot the ghosting with the DVD player I use, and although its just a cheap a Norcent 501 via component, it does produce a near perfect signal on other sets I have tried. Like I say, unless you want to display a few grid patterns, you would likely never be aware that the ghosting issue is even present. The important point is that it degrades overall image quality, which is something that concerns me.

Mechanic - I agree with you on the HD offerings - Cox has recently added TNTHD - I am considering adding the Cable HD here, but am concerned about loss of quality due to compression. I have read that OTA is the best overall pq. One disadvantage of this set (as I have posted in the past) is that it is impossible to integrate OTA via ATSC tuner with the HD Cable (digital cable) - you have to "reprogram" the tuner setup to go back and forth. I would need to purchase a STB (LG/other) to accomplish that.

I respect your opinion re: ghosting and CA - I have calibrated using DVE on my DVD player - can you tell me which patterns on DVE I should look at to see the ghosting ? I am sure I do not have as good an eye as you, but I would like to see the effect on my set. I have read about the CA issues here, but have not seen it on my set.

Any crosshatch pattern with 1-5 pixel white lines on a light grey or white background will illustrate this issue quite well. The software I linked to above has a few (crosshatch, outline, combo2) that work well for this. If you can write to a DVD, you can display them on some DVD players that are capable of accessing jpeg images. The pattern images that this software displays can be saved in jpeg format by using the alt + printscreen keyboard key combination, then you just paste the image stored in the clipboard into paintbrush. An HTPC hookup will obviously make things much easier as you can display the patterns directly.

If you are not into the HTPC thing, I would go with a plasma or the very best CRT-RP I could get my hands on.

Plasma isn't going to sniff my price range in the screen size I need. The viewing distance is 11 - 12 feet in my living room. CRT-RP has already been nixed by the misses... she doesn't want that bulky monstrosity in her living room. Additionally, a CRT-RP enclosure wouldn't leave room for my other components.

If this were a decision between two comparibly priced LCOS 720p sets, I would certainly go with the Sony. The $1k difference in price could also be justified by the Sony's 1080p resolution along with black level improvments, etc.

My thoughts on this... I clearly saw a clearer, purer image on the SXRD over the D-ILA, but it wasn't $1,180 better, IMO. Comparably priced... no contest - it would be the SXRD.

Dont count out DLP if you are not suseptable to rainbow effect, they typically offer a superb picture for your dollar. The Toshiba 1080p DLP seems to be quite a bargain, and Toshiba actually has their act together as far as user interface and build quality is concerned. When was the last time you heard of either Sony or JVC offering a software flash update? A mfg that offers fixes for the little bugs that may have occurred along with interface improvments to their existing line, demands more respect than those that really only care about how well their latest offering does on the showroom floor.

This forum has me so paranoid about seeing RBE, or having a family member or guest being affected by RBE, that I can't look at DLP with an objective eye anymore. I looked hard for RBE on the 50" Sammy DLP at Best Buy, and I couldn't get a whiff of it, even after I saw some videos that train you how to look for it on the net. I just wonder how prevalent the rainbow effect really is? My worst fear is that I, or others in my house, would not conciously be aware of it, yet suffer ill-effects (headaches, nausea) from it!

As I've said earlier, I'm not very demanding when it comes to image quality, even though I seek to get the best I can. There are times when I find the SD broadast image on my 32" Toshiba SDTV to be breathtaking... that happened several times this weekend as I was watching my Panthers get their fannies waxed by Seattle :o

I haven't looked at Toshiba's DLP, but I'll add it to my list. Another limiting factor that reared its head in my shopping thus far is that I found the viewing angle to be signfificantly broader for the JVC HD-52G786, than the Sammy DLP or the Sony LCD-RPs to which I was comparing it. Viewing angle will be a factor in our living room arrangement. None the less, I'll definitely give the Toshiba DLP a look.

Excellent report Zabo! Have you by chance compared OTA SD to to what you're seeing on cable? I'm concerned about SD broadcasts because I watch a lot of regional college football and basketball broadcasts, and most of them are in SD.

I wish I could find a B&M where I could walk in and see what an SD broadcast looks like on this set. That's probably going to be a bigger factor in my viewing than many of the forum members here.

You've set my mind at ease about DVD playback in 480p. I'll probably be doing some of that. I'd estimate that 40-50% of my usage of this set will be for XBox 360 gaming, and honestly, I haven't read anything but glowing praise for the Gx86's performance with the XBox 360 in game mode.

Excellent report Zabo! Have you by chance compared OTA SD to to what you're seeing on cable? I'm concerned about SD broadcasts because I watch a lot of regional college football and basketball broadcasts, and most of them are in SD.

I wish I could find a B&M where I could walk in and see what an SD broadcast looks like on this set. That's probably going to be a bigger factor in my viewing than many of the forum members here.

You've set my mind at ease about DVD playback in 480p. I'll probably be doing some of that. I'd estimate that 40-50% of my usage of this set will be for XBox 360 gaming, and honestly, I haven't read anything but glowing praise for the Gx86's performance with the XBox 360 in game mode.

Onlooker - I have not tried OTA SD - I would need a VHF antenna to do that and I would only get a few channels - plus, its moot since if I want to watch a network broadcast that is not in HD, I will still watch on the digital channel OTA - it is very watchable. I have watched some college FB/BB broadcasts this way and its not too bad. On cable SD - FB and BB on ESPN, ESPN2, FOXSN, TNT are ok - again, not the greatest, but watchable most of the time. Obviously, once any of us sees something in HD, SD will never be good. I think if I had to watch sports in SD, I would generally prefer my 32 in Hitachi direct view, but it just depends on the particular broadcast. Hope this helps.

BTW, my son uses this set with his XBOX - while I haven't played it, it looks stunning to me, and my son can't keep his friends away from it !

I’m really not particular towards any certain mfg, but the Toshiba did impress me with its build quality. Even the buttons on the front of the set were done with great attention to detail. Similar to the touch sensitive buttons used on microwave ovens, they gave one the impression that they would likely last forever even under to worst of conditions. If you buy a set from Best Buy, they do have a 30-day return/exchange policy so you can see for yourself weather you or your family members have problems with RBE. I did not detect RBE in the showroom display and I tried pretty hard, but once I brought the set into my own viewing conditions it became quite evident. Mouse cursors are real bad for that. :)

With a viewing distance over 10 ft. I do not believe that SD picture quality will be as much of an issue. If I view a real bad SD program in the PIP box, it actually looks pretty good, and increased distance should offer a similar effect.
That’s why I say that an HDTV choice is quite personal in nature, not something that anyone can really dictate. Recommendations like mine have to be viewed as only one person’s opinion, and since I have no idea of your own viewing preferences and environment conditions, it is a fairly uneducated one at that. :)

One thing I really like about the Gx86 is its relatively high level of brightness capability, and as you pointed out, the view angle is also quite impressive. Viewing angle is not something I have thought about much since I am always directly in front of the display. It is also a very nice gaming display, rivaling anything else I have had a chance to try with that aspect of use. I should note that the Toshiba did have some issues with a blocky image in some of the darker areas of HL2, but I suspect it was a defect in that particular set rather than a design issue. It seemed to have some lower gray scale noise that other owners did not observe.

I have noted a fair amount of noise in the red and magenta colors on my current Gx86 over the component input, which was not nearly as evident via HDMI. In my case, a bit of adjustment to the color drivers did help minimize this noise. I also pushed the blue drive up quite a bit to make Theater mode much more useful. This also helped with other user modes as I can set them for the low color temperature and still obtain a decent level of white.

Mechanic; I was complaining about you complaining, I just found it humorous you are in the same boat as I was with Mits.
Unfortunately, I have to agree with you ALL of these sets have QC and poor design issues that probably could of been corrected if it wasn't for the almighty $$!
Toshiba anlog with Mits are two of the most power hungry sets out there (other than Plasma). Both draw over 50 watts when they are (supposely) off!.
Had I knew that the Mits wouldn't even of made it in the front door.

A lurker here. What ever I buy will be used for watching TV casually until Basketball comes on. What I'm concerned with are issues that degrade fast motion viewing such as response time, etc. The signal will come from Time Warner Cable, with the HD package. I can also install an antenna for the local HD feeds. Viewing distance about 13feet minimum. The new Sonys won't fit, I have less than 48" in width to work with for the install. After allot of research, I've narrowed it down to the 52G786. Does anyone know if Best Buy's JVC HD52BP6 is the same unit? Their reps believe it is, they say that JVC gives them their own model #'s. Bottom line is if anyone has another suggestion, I'd appreciate it. Thanks to everyone contributing to this thread, its been extremely helpful.

Does anyone know if the JVC HD52BP6 is the same unit? Their reps believe it is, I'm sure it is. Who is "their"? Will the 56" 1080 fit?

Sorry, I just edited my post. Best Buy

I'm sure it is. Who is "their"? Will the 56" 1080 fit?

Reply: The 52" width of the 56" screen will not fit if the width runs the entire depth of the unit. I'm having to install it in a niche that gets smaller towards the back wall. I was aslo concerned about the higher resolution creating ratty looking SD feeds from the cable company. This weekend, I saw an SD feed of a football game on a 1080p unit, terrible!

Most folks expect to recieve a real remote when they spend over $2k for an HDTV. The fact that one can rectify the situation is obvious.Actually, no it wasn't obvious to me. =P Though I'm glad to know that I can get direct input select on this set with a new remote. I assumed that if the remote that came with the TV couldn't do it, it couldn't be done at all. I had plans to try to get one remote for driving all my components anyway, so I'm glad to know that doing so will also give me direct input select.

And yes, SD is passable if you increase viewing distance a bit.

All things considered, this was the right set for me right now. The only other option I was seriously considering was a Sony KV-34HS420. The 50" Maxent plasma at BB (for roughly the same price as the 52" JVC) caught my attention briefly, but since I'd never really heard anything about it, I passed it by. My intent was to get something to replace my decade old 22" CRT, until SED sets got here. DVDs and gaming were my primary interests, and I didn't trust DLP or plasma for the latter.

If the SXRD had been comparably priced, I'd have got it instead, no contest. If you had the cash, and could negotiate for it, you might get a 50" SXRD for closer to the price of the 52" JVC - especially after the $500 price drop. As it was, I wanted to take advantage of the "no interest" financing and that winds up costing retailers enough that they won't negotiate price much. So, I've got the JVC.

The 52" width of the 56" screen will not fit if the width runs the entire depth of the unit. No it doesn't, just the face.

Any crosshatch pattern with 1-5 pixel white lines on a light grey or white background will illustrate this issue quite well. The software I linked to above has a few (crosshatch, outline, combo2) that work well for this. If you can write to a DVD, you can display them on some DVD players that are capable of accessing jpeg images. The pattern images that this software displays can be saved in jpeg format by using the alt + printscreen keyboard key combination, then you just paste the image stored in the clipboard into paintbrush. An HTPC hookup will obviously make things much easier as you can display the patterns directly.

Mechanic - I burned the three patterns above on a CD (my Pioneer 588A will display jpeg files on CDR) and displayed them on my 56G786 last night. Horizontal lines looked perfect - almost exactly two pixels wide. Vertical lines, on the other hand, were not - I saw two things on the verticals - first, there was a faint green to the right and a faint red to the left of SOME of the vertical lines - about one pixel wide - I think this is the CA I have read about elsewhere on this thread. This was visible on the center and a little more on the right side, less so on the left side of the screen. Secondly, SOME of the vertical lines had a faint line to the right and/or left - as much as 1/4 inch from the lit-up vertical - almost a second image - is this the ghosting you referred to ? Or is this just a problem with viewing the jpeg file via CDR ? Also, where the combo image had several colored "blocks" adjacent to each other - the vertical borders were "overlapped" somewhat, so that for example - where the blue met yellow, there was an orange vertical line about two pixels wide where they overlapped.

I expected the CA of one pixel wide - I have read about that on the early posts in this thread. The ghosting (if that is what I saw) is more of a surprise - I assume there is not an adjustment to fix the "convergence".

A couple of additional comments:

Viewing angle - as mentioned by you and others, I have found the viewing angle to be very good on this set. I have the set in my basement, sort of in a corner - viewers sitting to either the right or left have excellent views with almost no loss of brightness. In addition, it has been common for me or other viewers to watch sports in HD while standing or sitting elevated on a barstool - there is a little more loss of brightness from above, but it is still excellent. The viewing angle was one of the biggest reasons I chose the JVC.

More on SD - as mentioned by you and others - and for Onlooker - certainly, the further you stand/sit, the better the pq on SD. I am typically about 10 feet, but have found the SD does look better from 12-14 feet. If you are going to watch a lot of SD, you certainly want to be as far back as possible.

I about had my mind made up to purchase a JVC HD-52G786, until I came here and read this thread. It really sounds like the premature bulb burnout problem is pretty common with this HD-ILA product line.


Don't take this thread as evidence that the bulb problem is limited to JVC. My BIL had 1 light engine and 2 bulbs go out in his Sony RP-LCD within 12 months, probably fewer than 1,000 hours on each bulb. Sony paid for all of the replacements under warranty, but the bulbs did go very prematurely.

This isn't a JVC problem, it's a rear projection problem.

Two quotes by OnlookerDelay: If SD is as bad as many of you seem to suggest on the Gx86 series, I may not be satisfied with this set. I'm going to have to see what an SD broadcast looks like on this set before I can make the decision to buy it. Now I've got to find a dealer within driving range who is willing to demonstrate the set in SD.

Presently, my three biggest concerns with the HD-52G786 are:

1.) Limited bulb life
2.) Unacceptable SD broadcast image quality
3.) Muddy/artifact riddled black level performance.

1. This is not limited to JVC, by any means. All other rear projection brands seem to have the same problem.

2. I am very satisfied with SD picture quality with my 61z786. It is certainly better than the picture quality on an RCA DLP and a Sony RP-LCD sets that I have viewed fairly extensively. Certainly, SD quality varies from channel to channel, and even from program to program, but it's better on my JVC than on most other sets I've seen. This was one of the factors I considered when I shopped, however, and I specifically looked at SD programming at several retailers. It's next to impossible to do at Best Buy and CC, but the smaller retailers will usually accomodate this request. I think the JVC is actually at the top of the HDTV heap in terms of SD picture quality. Another consideration: Viewing distance is much more critical with SD than it is with HD.

3. Black level performance is not as good as with DLP, but it's certainly acceptable to me. I don't watch that many movies, and I'm more interested in picture quality with TV broadcasts than watching DVDs. The black levels are at least as good as those on Sony LCD sets, IMO.

Mechanic - I burned the three patterns above on a CD (my Pioneer 588A will display jpeg files on CDR) and displayed them on my 56G786 last night. Horizontal lines looked perfect - almost exactly two pixels wide. Vertical lines, on the other hand, were not - I saw two things on the verticals - first, there was a faint green to the right and a faint red to the left of SOME of the vertical lines - about one pixel wide - I think this is the CA I have read about elsewhere on this thread. This was visible on the center and a little more on the right side, less so on the left side of the screen. Secondly, SOME of the vertical lines had a faint line to the right and/or left - as much as 1/4 inch from the lit-up vertical - almost a second image - is this the ghosting you referred to ? Or is this just a problem with viewing the jpeg file via CDR ?

Yes, that is the ghosting issue I have mentioned. Once you know what to look for you can also spot it in the more fixed images displayed on HD broadcasts, etc. The INHD2 poker cards example is pretty good for illustrating the degree of ghosting in an HD broadcast. Since the ghosting occurs on a near pixel level, it is not immediatly evident in moving images; the effect here is simply reduced definition (softer picture).
Since I was able to compare samples of three different RP technologies(LCD, LCOS, and DLP) in my home, I was able to more easily identify the shortcommings of the JVC Gx86, as well as some deficiencies in the other examples. The softer picture was a real concern to me, and so I took additional effort to determine rather the actual cause was intended or if it was a technology design flaw. The fact that it was evident in all three of the Gx86's I tried was as least "fairly" good evidence that it was present in all Gx86's that JVC has sold.

Could many of the bulb issue be blamed on dirty/unstabe power? Or are they equally experienced with those using power cleaners/UPS etc etc?

No, I would say that other than an actual power failure, the power source quality has very little to do with it. I have always had my current set hooked to a Tripplite HT1500 Home Theratre UPS, and experienced a lamp failure within the first 2 months of use (< 1000 hrs). AC line noise and flutuation would be isolated from the lamp by DC conversion via the sets internal power supply. No one would argue that all microchip display mfg's have issues with lamp longevity, the point here is that the JVC goes though lamps like a child would with M&M's when given an unlimited supply.

Is there perhaps something in the service menu which can be adjusted to eliminate the ghosting? Or is it just a problem with the projection/light engine?

Not that I am aware of or even JVC is for that matter (JVC does do a limited assembly floor calibration). It was present to nearly the same exact extent on three different Gx86's I tested in my home. If there were any adjustment that had an effect on this, you would expect there to be a different degree of this issue present between three sets (i.e. samples). I have also verified that the focus adjustment proceedure has absolutely no effect on the ghosting issue.

Don't take this thread as evidence that the bulb problem is limited to JVC. My BIL had 1 light engine and 2 bulbs go out in his Sony RP-LCD within 12 months, probably fewer than 1,000 hours on each bulb. Sony paid for all of the replacements under warranty, but the bulbs did go very prematurely.

This isn't a JVC problem, it's a rear projection problem.

The more I read about the other rear projection LCD, DLP, and LCoS sets I'm considering, the more I realize this is the case. I guess the best bet is to get a warranty that offers unlimited bulb replacements?

for the record, i really like my 52z. and if i switch it for the $ony a10, in the back of my mind i will think i downgraded. they just dont seem to have the bulb issues and there are more $ony owners posting here than jvc. a bulb a year is no biggie but if it turns out to be every 3 months i am bailing out.

Two quotes by OnlookerDelay:



1. This is not limited to JVC, by any means. All other rear projection brands seem to have the same problem.

Yep... I'm now seeing this to be the case.

2. I am very satisfied with SD picture quality with my 61z786. It is certainly better than the picture quality on an RCA DLP and a Sony RP-LCD sets that I have viewed fairly extensively. Certainly, SD quality varies from channel to channel, and even from program to program, but it's better on my JVC than on most other sets I've seen. This was one of the factors I considered when I shopped, however, and I specifically looked at SD programming at several retailers. It's next to impossible to do at Best Buy and CC, but the smaller retailers will usually accomodate this request. I think the JVC is actually at the top of the HDTV heap in terms of SD picture quality. Another consideration: Viewing distance is much more critical with SD than it is with HD.

I really appreciate your comments on this. Your comparative analysis gives me something I can build on. What you are saying makes a lot of sense to me. I haven't seen an SD signal on any rear projection HDTV, let alone the JVC XXX786 family. I really only discovered the JVC during my last shopping excursion to Best Buy. I didn't give it as hard a look as I should have because I knew so little about it. It was also hard to compare it reasonably because it was on the second shelf of the display rack, whereas the others I was interested in were on the floor level. 90% of my SD viewing will be done from 10-12' away. We also have a comparably good cable service provider in my hometown, so I'm not overly concerned about getting a less than acceptable SD signal with it.

3. Black level performance is not as good as with DLP, but it's certainly acceptable to me. I don't watch that many movies, and I'm more interested in picture quality with TV broadcasts than watching DVDs. The black levels are at least as good as those on Sony LCD sets, IMO.

I honestly can't say how keen my senses are regarding the black level issue. I don't watch a whole lot of movies myself, and if that's where it rears its head the most, it may not be a big issue with me. I do want to compare it with dlp and LCD projection, however. I'll see if I can't go by Best Buy this Saturday and make some more informed comparisons. You guys have schooled me up pretty well in my short time here. I'm really indebted to you all (well, most of you... excluding a few obvious trolls ;))

Installed HD-52G786 last night using component into V1 input. Source is TW cable. Stunning picture on digital bandwidths and a bit ratty on SD, as expected; but not nearly as bad as I've experienced on other makes and types of TVs. I believe if you want to watch allot of SD, save a bundle and buy a lower def tv. Out of the box, the pic was very bright. I toned it down to 'theater' mode for the time being and will search this thread for settings found to be acceptable. If anyone can quickly direct me to any of this info I would appreciate it. Also, has anyone had any experience using the Time Warner cable cards in the unit?

OnlookerDelay; Where SD really looks bad are satellite feeds of SD material where they compress the hell out of the signal to to make room for all those 'must carry' local stations. :mad:

Problem most of these 'big box' stores just have feeds of video off a STB either satellite, cable or a HDD loop. None of which really show the set off AFAIC especially since the tuner is not used. :mad: :mad:

Too bad they don't do whjat was done 30 years agho ahd just have an outdoor antenna feeding the sets. ;)

I will disagree that the 1080 Mits DLP had a better SD image then this set does, but there is a price difference of $1k. Have you ruled out JVCs' 1080??

I'm starting to get some slight discoloration on my 52g786 on my left side. It appears to be a handful of 0.5 to 2" long and 0.25-0.5" wide blotches that arrainge vertically. It's quite apparent when white is showing and at first appearance, I had thought it was finger prints or some dried up moisture on the outside of the screen.

A closer look reveals it's inside and if I press on the screen very lightly, it sorta goes away.

What is this and how can it be corrected (if it can DIY), or, should I just call JVC and get someone to check it out?

thks.


EDIT: Wait a second. I go back to check it out again and perhaps take a picture of it and now it's gone. It first appeared within the first 2-3 minutes of turning on my TV but now it's been running for 10-15 minutes and now it's gone. Is it condensation on the inside of the screen or somewhere else?

I had the same problem when I owned this display....It appears to be a "non-issue" because after about 5-10 minutes with the TV on, it always went away....

Seems like I have read where others have had this problem when they first turn on their TV in a cold room.
esteps

I'm starting to get some slight discoloration on my 52g786 on my left side. It appears to be a handful of 0.5 to 2" long and 0.25-0.5" wide blotches that arrainge vertically. It's quite apparent when white is showing and at first appearance, I had thought it was finger prints or some dried up moisture on the outside of the screen.

A closer look reveals it's inside and if I press on the screen very lightly, it sorta goes away.

What is this and how can it be corrected (if it can DIY), or, should I just call JVC and get someone to check it out?

thks.


EDIT: Wait a second. I go back to check it out again and perhaps take a picture of it and now it's gone. It first appeared within the first 2-3 minutes of turning on my TV but now it's been running for 10-15 minutes and now it's gone. Is it condensation on the inside of the screen or somewhere else?

90% of my SD viewing will be done from 10-12' away. We also have a comparably good cable service provider in my hometown, so I'm not overly concerned about getting a less than acceptable SD signal with it.

What TV sizes are you considering? I sit about 15' back from my 61" and watching SD is no problem at all. It does look pretty blurry if you get as close as 10' or so, however. With HD programming, you can be as close as 6' or so and have a super-clear picture.

...With HD programming, you can be as close as 6' or so and have a super-clear picture.

I have always felt this to be true of my 52 incher, which is why I am so astonished when mechanic says he finds fault with the JVC image. I just returned to my seller (a high-end AV store) for the first time since I bought the set to buy a spare lamp just in case.

They had a display model of my set and near it was a 50 inch Sony SXRD, which was the first time I'd been able to directly compare these two LCoS technologies. Both were displaying the same high-quality rock concert HD feed, and quite frankly I couldn't see any real difference in picture quality, in spite of the Sony's smaller screen size, much greater number of pixels and higher price. The Sony was slightly more garish and harsh, but not better in any real way.

And comparing my model to the Hitachi and Toshiba PRs and Panasonic plasmas, all displaying the same program, there was just no contest. I LOVE MY JVC!

I have always felt this to be true of my 52 incher, which is why I am so astonished when mechanic says he finds fault with the JVC image.

Not only did I isolate the issue, it is quite easy to verify that it exists for yoruself just as Zabo has done in the post above. The thing is that most who have never owned an HDTV are going to be impressed by even a substandard HD picture, since any level of HD is far better than what they were used to seeing.

What TV sizes are you considering? I sit about 15' back from my 61" and watching SD is no problem at all. It does look pretty blurry if you get as close as 10' or so, however. With HD programming, you can be as close as 6' or so and have a super-clear picture.

I'm considering 50 and 52" screen sizes. I seriously doubt I'll ever sit closer than 6' away from the screen, although I'd probably be tempted to try it with some of the racing games I'll be playing on the XBox 360. I'll be watching SD at a distance of 10-12 feet most of the time. Extrapolating on your results, I'd say that would yield acceptable results.

I don't expect to be bowled over by SD image quality on the JVC-HDG786 (or any other projection screen HDTV, for that matter), but I at least want to be able to view it without being aware of how bad it looks.

Viewing angle - as mentioned by you and others, I have found the viewing angle to be very good on this set. I have the set in my basement, sort of in a corner - viewers sitting to either the right or left have excellent views with almost no loss of brightness. In addition, it has been common for me or other viewers to watch sports in HD while standing or sitting elevated on a barstool - there is a little more loss of brightness from above, but it is still excellent. The viewing angle was one of the biggest reasons I chose the JVC.

And probably one of the main reasons I'll end up buying one in this family. Some of the viewers in our arrangement will be looking on at up to ~45 deg. I was disappointed at the dropoff of all the DLP's I've looked at thus far in this regard.

More on SD - as mentioned by you and others - and for Onlooker - certainly, the further you stand/sit, the better the pq on SD. I am typically about 10 feet, but have found the SD does look better from 12-14 feet. If you are going to watch a lot of SD, you certainly want to be as far back as possible.

I'm willing to go back to 12' to get good results with SD. If I kick back on my sofa, I'll be 13' away from the screen. In my easy chair, I'm more like 10.5'. Thanks for this info! The rest of your test report in response to Mechanic was also very instructive.

OnlookerDelay; SD almost always looks bad on overly compressed satellite feeds. DTV, Dish & BEV all look like crap. Analog cable (other than feeds with excessive noise) and especiallly OTA looks more than acceptable to me on most of these sets.

Not only did I isolate the issue, it is quite easy to verify that it exists for yoruself just as Zabo has done in the post above. The thing is that most who have never owned an HDTV are going to be impressed by even a substandard HD picture, since any level of HD is far better than what they were used to seeing.

I am not doubting that these "issues" exist in a technical sense, what I challenge is that they have any relevance to normal viewing experience. And please don't be so elitist about your ownership experience. All my comparisons in stores (including repeated visits to a couple of high-end stores which provide good feed, set-up and lighting) indicate that it is other models that are sub-standard, not D-ILA.

You would be more in tune with the culture of this forum if you expressed your views as opinions and impressions, rather than technological "facts" based on "superior" knowledge.

Wow, it's really just too damn bad that you don’t like how I post.. :)
Take your personal attacks somewhere else, a public technical forum is not a place for immature BS like this.

Time out please...................... :)

OnlookerDelay; SD almost always looks bad on overly compressed satellite feeds. DTV, Dish & BEV all look like crap. Analog cable (other than feeds with excessive noise) and especiallly OTA looks more than acceptable to me on most of these sets.

I'm on analog cable right now. With my three SDTV's that are fed by it, I'm mostly happy with the image quality. There are times when a certain band of channels (usually 3-6, and/or 56-60) will be inexplicably noisy, while the other channels - even the ones right next to the problem ones - are crystal clear. I don't complain much because there's rarely content on those channels that I want to watch, or can't see on another channel (5 and 7 are CBS, for example).

Anyway, I wonder what might happen if I upgrade to digital cable (which I have to do to receive HDTV, right?), and I've got an HD-52G786 sitting in my living room. Will I perceive a degredation in SD signal quality as a result of this? I guess a better way of asking this is to phrase the question this way - would an analog cable SD signal look better over this set than a digital one?

Time out please...................... :)

Yeah.... <group hug> everyone :) Now on wid bidniss!

There are times when a certain band of channels (usually 3-6, and/or 56-60) will be inexplicably noisy Bad low band channels are usually a poor fitting, bad top end channels are usually just cable loss. wonder what might happen if I upgrade to digital cable You get rid of the noise and trade it for the compression. :(

Bad low band channels are usually a poor fitting, bad top end channels are usually just cable loss.

What's odd though is that channel 2 comes in clear as a bell when I'm seeing this on the low end, and 61 - 70 are clear on the top... strange stuff.

You get rid of the noise and trade it for the compression. :(

Is there anyway to compare how much digital compression your cable provider has to others, or is this a fixed value due to the nature of the satellite feed they all get?

I went by Best Buy this evening to do some more informed comparison's, now that you guys have horsed me up a bit on what to look for. Much to my dismay, the JVC HD-52G786 was no longer on display. The sales clerk told me that it "broke" (sic) this week, and was being repaired. I went ahead and compared the Samsung 50" DLP to the 60" Sony SXRD, Toshiba 52" DLP, and the Magnavox 50" DLP. The Sony was the clear winnder, but much to my surprise, the Magnavox was second. Now it might have had something to do with the way they were adjusted. I suspected as much and asked the clerk if I could adjust them... he couldn't find the remotes for them :confused:.

He tried to sell me on the Magnovox 50" DLP after he saw that I was more drawn to it (it's on sale for $1799.95). I looked at it for a while, and I was finally able to detect the rainbow effect, by moving my head back and forth, in the Discovery demo they were rolling. The sales clerk rolled his eyes when I told him that I had seen the rainbow effect, and said to me... "You've undoubtedly seen one of those Sony sponsored training videos on the internet on how to spot the RBE". I told him that I had seen a very amatuerish video where I guy was moving the camera back and forth while a big circle was displayed on the screen. He replied, "well you're not going to be rotating your head back and forth while you are watching a movie or program in your home; it's unrealistic to apply that test to a demo unit in the store"

There may be some validity to what he was telling me, but honestly, my perceptions have now been jaundiced, re. DLP. I'm afraid that I would get more and more adept at spotting RBE (BTW, to be fair, I also picked up on RBE on the Samsung and Toshiba as well) as time goes on. Granted, I only picked up RBE when a distinct line or circle was being displayed in a fixed position, but I'm now paranoid about what the subconcious effects of it might be... if any at all. I told the guy I'd come back when they got their JVC D-ILA repaired.

I went down the road to Rex Appliance Store, where they did have a JVC HD-52Z575 on display. At first glance, I wasn't overly impressed with the JVC, but then I compared it to the Samsung 50" DLP on its left to the Mitsubishi DLP on its right. Neither was as sharp, IMO, to the JVC. I then started playing with the settings, and found that I had to bring the brightness, picture, and detail levels up to varying degrees to get a much more appealing image quality. I had it set to where it was stunningly better looking, to my eyes, than any other rear projection in the store! One customer who was being towed by a salesman to a plasma TV, stopped, did a double take, and said WOW, when he saw the image I had tweaked. The salesman had to come an pull him away, rationalizing that they could make all of their sets look like that with tuning, but they are advised to leave everything on default settings for comparison purposes. I can understand that.

Anyway, I played with the Sammy and the Mits, and I never could get either of them to match the clarity and brightness of what I was seeing on the 52Z575. I will say this though, at default settings, the darker swamp scenes they were showing on the Discovery HD feed, the JVC went black in some areas where the Mits and the Sammy were still showing dark greens. It was clear to me that I was supposed to be seeing dark green. When I increased the brightness to "+4" on the JVC, it matched the dark greens of the others.

I was also able to clearly establish that to my eyes, there was a wider, useable viewing angle associated with the JVC compared to the others. However, this angle margin wasn't as large as I'd thought previously. Still, it will make the difference between the viewers in the outer two seats in our living room getting a viewable screen or not.

One question though... this was the only JVC D-ILA Rex had... I'd not read of the HD-52Z575 before ( I'm guessing this is a 2004 model?). Do its specs differ significantly from the HD-52G786?

Is there anyway to compare how much digital compression your cable provider has to others, or is this a fixed value due to the nature of the satellite feed they all get? Not that I know of. It can be varied AFAIK to a certain extent.

OnlookerDelay; Those comments that sales clerk made are the first intellegent comments I have heard from on of these 'kids'. Couldn't agree more.I compared it to the Samsung 50" DLP on its left to the Mitsubishi DLP on its right. The 720 Sammy does have a very 'soft' pictuire, some like that, I surely don't. I'm surprised about your comments regarding the Mits (though I haven't seen this years 720 locally). You realize the 'Z' is last years model?
the JVC HD-52G786 was no longer on display How many others have seen JVC NOT on display at BB anymore? Sears has dropped JVC from the floor though it can be ordered. My local BB has no JVCs' on displays. Actually they have a very poor showing of Microdisplays. It appears they are leaning more towards Plasmas where the $$ is. :mad:

I went by Best Buy this evening to do some more informed comparison's... I'd not read of the HD-52Z575 before ( I'm guessing this
is a 2004 model?). Do its specs differ significantly from the HD-52G786?

I long ago stopped using the "big box" stores for comparison purposes. You just can't trust their set-ups. I've seen sets that I knew were perfectly good rendered absolutely unwatchable. And when you talk to the staff, you know why.

There was two stores I came to trust, both smaller, selling high-end products, in business for a long time. They had more mature and knowledgable staff, the sets always had good and consistent images.

I wound up buying from one of them, even tho I might have saved a couple of hundred buying at a bigger chain. I doubt I'll regret it, since they provide their own in-house parts and service, and have done so sucessfully for decades.

As to the Z models, these were the first generation D-ILAs. According to my store, there's lots of parts that are different. I have heard second-hand of a couple of people who own these sets and are happy with them. I do gather tho that the "G's" have more adjustability in the menues, and maybe somewhat better image rendering.

I first started looking at HDTV late in 2004, and the Z's were just out then. I'm glad I waited until late October for a G, not the least for the reason that the price dropped by well over a grand.

I went by Best Buy this evening to do some more informed comparison's, now that you guys have horsed me up a bit on what to look for. Much to my dismay, the JVC HD-52G786 was no longer on display. The sales clerk told me that it "broke" (sic) this week, and was being repaired. I went ahead and compared the Samsung 50" DLP to the 60" Sony SXRD, Toshiba 52" DLP, and the Magnavox 50" DLP. The Sony was the clear winnder, but much to my surprise, the Magnavox was second. Now it might have had something to do with the way they were adjusted. I suspected as much and asked the clerk if I could adjust them... he couldn't find the remotes for them :confused:.

Since some would say that is fairly typical of how the Gx86 will perform in your home (i.e. broken most of the time) it may actually have been a "pretty good" set-to-set comparison. Best Buy seldom allows a customer to see the remote; could be due to the customers who just laugh and walk away once they have the JVC remote in their hand. :)
When I purchased my original Gx86 from best buy, they also had a 56GX786 on the display floor which was inoperable.. Coincidence or Omen?