OnlookerDelay; Those comments that sales clerk made are the first intellegent comments I have heard from on of these 'kids'. Couldn't agree more.

You mean in regards to how un-natural it is to rock your head back and forth, studying one form on the screen in order to detect the rainbow effect? While it's true I won't be doing that in reality, it tells me that there's something there that *may* have a subconcious effect on me in the long run. I'm suseptable to motion sickness when I travel in a car for more than an hour. This has me thinking that I may not be a good candidate for DLP. I'll admit though that the biggest problem right now is that the seed of doubt has been planted in my mind about DLP now, and I don't think I can get over it.

BTW, I tried the same pickup technique that I'd seen on the internet with the Sony LCD rear projection and the JVC D-ILA, and I couldn't perceive rainbows. What bothers me about the LCD projection is the SDE. I had to back away more than 8' to lose it. Straight on at 10', I'm almost as impressed with what I saw on the 50" Sony A-10 as I was with the JVC 52" D-ILA. It lost its sharpness the quickest off axis, however.

The 720 Sammy does have a very 'soft' pictuire, some like that, I surely don't.

I'm seeing that more in comments from other users. I thought it looked okay... certainly watchable, but I would be fiddling with the controls trying to compensate for that too much. Even after tweaking in the store, I still couldn't get it to look as sharp as the JVC.

I'm surprised about your comments regarding the Mits

As for seeing rainbows, or for comparative image quality? I preferred it to the Samsung, but it still took a backseat to the JVC.

You realize the 'Z' is last years model?

No, I admit that I still haven't fully hashed out JVC's product models. I thought the 5XX series were last year's models, while 7XX and 8XX were this year's. Furthermore, I thought the "Z" referred to the cabinet style/color (as in silver for Z, while "G" is for black). Is that not the case?

How many others have seen JVC NOT on display at BB anymore? Sears has dropped JVC from the floor though it can be ordered. My local BB has no JVCs' on displays. Actually they have a very poor showing of Microdisplays. It appears they are leaning more towards Plasmas where the $$ is. :mad:

This was only the second time I'd been into Best Buy seriously looking at RP screens. I could tell that the clerk wasn't pro-JVC, but he assured me that the demo unit would be back. The plasmas are nice, but I can't come close to affording a 50" plasma display... which is what I'll need for optimum viewing in my living room.

I would say that if you can even see a hint of RBE, then DLP technology is simply not for you. I found that even though I was unable to detect RBE on the showroom floor, it became increasingly obvious once I had a set within my own viewing environment. A problem with RPLCD that I noted was that the SDE seemed to add to the overall apparent SSE. This could be why RPLCD has been deemed as the worst technology for SSE on the market. The fact that plasma exhibits SDE while not displaying any appreciable SSE would be a good argument against this, but I suspect the protective screen designs used between these two technologies are not equivlent.

I long ago stopped using the "big box" stores for comparison purposes. You just can't trust their set-ups. I've seen sets that I knew were perfectly good rendered absolutely unwatchable. And when you talk to the staff, you know why.

I see your point. Our local Rex store is not what I'd really call a big box store... it's an appliance store with tons of models, shapes and sizes on display. There's rarely a lot of traffic in there, but much of what they sell are big ticket items. I appreciated the fact that the salesman let me play with the controls on all the sets, but one thing disturbed me from the get-go.... the lack of knowledge this guy had about their product line :( In my one month of research, I felt like a I had a better handle on the various technologies and particularly product features, than he did!?

For example, when I told him that I was looking for the HD-52G786, he said that this was the only model they carried (52Z575). I asked him if that was the current line and he said... "oh yeah". I then told him that I had picked up the rainbow effect on the DLP's and he looked at me with the deer in the headlights look.... I could tell he didn't know what I was talking about. I had to explain it to him, and I don't think he was feigning ignorance on it.

There was two stores I came to trust, both smaller, selling high-end products, in business for a long time. They had more mature and knowledgable staff, the sets always had good and consistent images.

I wound up buying from one of them, even tho I might have saved a couple of hundred buying at a bigger chain. I doubt I'll regret it, since they provide their own in-house parts and service, and have done so sucessfully for decades.

We really don't have a store that fits that description in my hometown, but there is a Tweeter store in Charlotte. Maybe they would be more likely to know their stuff, and be willing to take on the service challenge that these JVC sets seem to require?

As to the Z models, these were the first generation D-ILAs. According to my store, there's lots of parts that are different. I have heard second-hand of a couple of people who own these sets and are happy with them. I do gather tho that the "G's" have more adjustability in the menues, and maybe somewhat better image rendering.

I first started looking at HDTV late in 2004, and the Z's were just out then. I'm glad I waited until late October for a G, not the least for the reason that the price dropped by well over a grand.

It's nearly impossible to make sense out of JVC's model numbering. I look at their product line at Vann's.com, and see G's that are silver, and Z's that are black. Change the 786 to an 886, and the "G" case becomes silver. I give up :eek: I wonder if the 2005 product line has improved on reliability issues from 2004? I'd like to know what the consensus is on whether the 2005 line had better image quality than 2004? Newer is not always better.

Since some would say that is fairly typical of how the Gx86 will perform in your home (i.e. broken most of the time) it may actually have been a "pretty good" set-to-set comparison.

LOL.... I knew I'd set somebody up to knock that statement out of the park! :D What's scary though is that I still have the cahones to buy this set, knowing that I'm very likely going to have reliability issues with it. I'm almost thinking about buying a spare lamp, just to have it on hand for when the first one blows. That way I'll at least be able to use it while I'm waiting on my warranty replacement to arrive. Of course by now I'm not naive enough to think that lamp problems will be the only problems I'll have out of it.

Best Buy seldom allows a customer to see the remote; could be due to the customers who just laugh and walk away once they have the JVC remote in their hand. :) When I purchased my original Gx86 from best buy, they also had a 56GX786 on the display floor which was inoperable.. Coincidence or Omen?

The remote for the JVC Z575 I had in my hand at Rex really wasn't all that bad. I wouldn't have any problem using it, although it's not something you could do more nuts and bolts work with. I think Best Buy didn't have any remotes that the customer could put their hands on. I didn't really quiz them about it because I'd already lost interest once they didn't have the JVC on display. You're right... It may be an Omen, one that I probably should be paying attention to, but am too stubborn to heed.

I would say that if you can even see a hint of RBE, then DLP technology is simply not for you. I found that even though I was unable to detect RBE on the showroom floor, it became increasingly obvious once I had a set within my own viewing environment. A problem with RPLCD that I noted was that the SDE seemed to add to the overall apparent SSE. This could be why RPLCD has been deemed as the worst technology for SSE on the market. The fact that plasma exhibits SDE while not displaying any appreciable SSE would be a good argument against this, but I suspect the protective screen designs used between these two technologies are not equivlent.

I can't undo the damage that seeing the RBE, even with a trained technique, has done to my perceptions about DLP. It's off my list now. I did notice the SSE on the plasmas, but only within 6'. The SDE was the overriding issue I had with the RPLCD, but it evaported beyond 8'. I found the SDE to be far more bothersome than the SSE, however. D-ILA has emerged as the technology of choice for my tastes, but unfortunaely, JVC is the only manufacturer offering it at a price that I can afford. I guess that's why I'm willing to suffer the slings and arrows of JVC D-ILA ownership.

The remote for the JVC Z575 I had in my hand at Rex really wasn't all that bad.

The prior year Z-series remote is actually better than the one that comes with the newer G-series. At least it has buttons for direct input selection, which is one of my major beefs with the Gx86 remote. Why would they remove a remote feature such as this that would actually make the newer remote fairly useful? My theory: that this is just one area where they skimmed in order to increase profit margin.

As for your conclusion that DILA is the best technology for you, that is the same conclusion I came to. The best advise I could give is to buy one from a B&M that has an excellent exchange policy, and then swap out the sets until you at least get one with fewer OTB defects. Home delivery becomes a big assest here as then you are not stuck transporting sets every few weeks; They just come to your home and swap out the sets.

The "keep reserve lamp on hand" idea does not work all that well in practice, as replacement lamps only have a 90-day warranty.

The prior year Z-series remote is actually better than the one that comes with the newer G-series. At least it has buttons for direct input selection, which is one of my major beefs with the Gx86 remote. Why would they remove a remote feature such as this that would actually make the newer remote fairly useful? My theory: that this is just one area where they skimmed in order to increase profit margin.

Gulp... I'm scared to see what this new remote looks like now. The 2004 model was at least functional. How much can they realistically cut costs with what was already a pretty Spartan remote?

As for your conclusion that DILA is the best technology for you, that is the same conclusion I came to. The best advise I could give is to buy one from a B&M that has an excellent exchange policy, and then swap out the sets until you at least get one with fewer OTB defects. Home delivery becomes a big assest here as then you are not stuck transporting sets every few weeks; They just come to your home and swap out the sets.

We do have another B & M (Queen City TV & Appliance) in town whom I haven't checked. Maybe they have it. Their website has little information. They only list the brands they carry, and JVC is amongst them, but this store does kitchen appliances also. I don't know how well equipped they are at servicing D-ILA televisions, but at least they're in town and they have an impressive fleet of delivery trucks :)

The "keep reserve lamp on hand" idea does not work all that well in practice, as replacement lamps only have a 90-day warranty.

I was reading elsewhere that there's some sort of alternative lamp/assembly that *might* work for the JVC. Does this ring a bell with you? I realize that doing such a thing would void a warranty, but it's something to keep in the back of my mind for when the warranty ends. I've got mods in one of my computers and my washing machine that have brought them both back from the grave, so it's not like I'm bashful about doing something this bold.

Gulp... I'm scared to see what this new remote looks like now. The 2004 model was at least functional. How much can they realistically cut costs with what was already a pretty Spartan remote?

If 15 yr old tech like mechanical slide swtiches does not scare ya, then their idea of using buttons that are nearly all the same small size probably will. :)


We do have another B & M (Queen City TV & Appliance) in town whom I haven't checked. Maybe they have it. Their website has little information. They only list the brands they carry, and JVC is amongst them, but this store does kitchen appliances also. I don't know how well equipped they are at servicing D-ILA televisions, but at least they're in town and they have an impressive fleet of delivery trucks :)

The return/exchange policy is the important aspect, does not matter how many trucks they have if they will not work with you to get a decent set in your home. Most oulets like Best Buy and Circuit City have a 30 day policy, and they do seem to work with you "up to a point".


I was reading elsewhere that there's some sort of alternative lamp/assembly that *might* work for the JVC. Does this ring a bell with you? I realize that doing such a thing would void a warranty, but it's something to keep in the back of my mind for when the warranty ends. I've got mods in one of my computers and my washing machine that have brought them both back from the grave, so it's not like I'm bashful about doing something this bold.
It would be real nice if they were to offer some type of upgrade/retrofit to an LED lamp assembly. With lamp life like I have experienced (< 800 hrs), they would have to offer either something like LED lamps or free lifetime replacement lamps before I would consider a JVC again. Even the best picture available is rather worthless if you are constantly replacing the lamp, and if 2 months of lamp use like I got is typical, you wont be a happy camper. I think JVC is just putting cheap lamps and components into their sets in order to survive against the competition.

Has anyone considered creating a census of sorts to log the problems encountered with these units?

last week I posted that I was getting smudges on the inside of my screen - likely condensation - but other than 'I hear ya, bother', no one posted with a remedy
or suggest that I call JVC direct. Can this problem be solved other that waiting
for it to go away as the bulb heats up?

thks.

Has anyone considered creating a census of sorts to log the problems encountered with these units?

There's a thread running at ecoustics.com that approaches what you're asking for. It's a log of bulb life reports, but it's spilled over into other issues. Here's the link:

JVC HD-ILA Bulb life reports, etc. (http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/2/176314.html)

last week I posted that I was getting smudges on the inside of my screen - likely condensation - but other than 'I hear ya, bother', no one posted with a remedy
or suggest that I call JVC direct. Can this problem be solved other that waiting
for it to go away as the bulb heats up?

thks.

That's a new one on me bro! I hope the spots, if it is condensation, don't leave spots behind :eek:

I'm on analog cable right now. With my three SDTV's that are fed by it, I'm mostly happy with the image quality. There are times when a certain band of channels (usually 3-6, and/or 56-60) will be inexplicably noisy, while the other channels - even the ones right next to the problem ones - are crystal clear. I don't complain much because there's rarely content on those channels that I want to watch, or can't see on another channel (5 and 7 are CBS, for example).

Anyway, I wonder what might happen if I upgrade to digital cable (which I have to do to receive HDTV, right?), and I've got an HD-52G786 sitting in my living room. Will I perceive a degredation in SD signal quality as a result of this? I guess a better way of asking this is to phrase the question this way - would an analog cable SD signal look better over this set than a digital one?

If your cable company is like mine, you will still get your current channels in analog. Upgrading to digital cable did nothing to the analog channels on my cable system. I upgraded to digital cable when I got my HDTV, because I had to upgrade to ditigal to get the HD package and DVR. Channels 2-78 are still broadcast in analog even with the digital package. All the digital package adds is channels 101 and up, which I almost never watch. Oh, I do watch a couple of the digital music channels, but that's about it. All told, upgrading to digital, HD and DVR service costs me about $30 more a month. Yeah, it's a lot, but I waited a long time to get a big-screen TV, and I'm not going to go without HD and DVR service. Check with your cable company to see if yours works the same way.

Are the analog channels any better now than they were before? They look the same to me.

---------------------------------------------

The remote control: I find the remote that came with my JVC TV every bit as easy to use as others I've used, except for the lack of separate "input" buttons. You have to scroll through the inputs one-by-one. How bothersome this is for you depends on how often you change inputs, for example, changing from watching TV to watching a DVD. It's not that big a deal, to be honest. But also to be honest, I bought an aftermarket Harmony remote that changes my TV inputs, my receiver inputs and operates whatever I am using at the touch of a single button. I did this to make operating the TV and sound system easier for my wife, not because I didn't like the JVC remote.

-----------------------------------------------

The 525z is the 2004 model, and is earlier than the 2005 52g, 56g and 61z models that came out last summer. I have a Rex store near me, and they only have the earlier 525z model, also. Rex is one step away from a surplus store, and they typically buy close-out models, not the current production models. That is why they are selling leftover 525z models. I've bought stuff at Rex before, but they are not a JVC dealer.

---------------------------------------------

I'll give you one more issue to contemplate: reflectivity of the screen. All DLP sets I looked at had very reflective screens. So reflective that you could literally watch yourself watching TV. So reflective that any light from a lamp or window becomes not only distracting, but messes up the picture to an extent far exceeding any technological shortcomings of DLP vs. LCD vs. DILA. I watch TV in a family room that has windows along one side, and I quickly decided that I could not live with a reflective screen. That ruled out all of the DLP sets I looked at, and reduced my universe to the Sony RP-LCD and JVC DILA. I had ruled out old-fashioned CRT rear projection because of the severely limited viewing angles and size and weight of the sets. I know you don't really want one more thing to think about as you shop, but I found this issue to be more important than black levels, CA or any of that other nonsense.

------------------------------------------

Hmm....Thought I was ready to "Trade-up", Hitachi 51710s, to JVC 56g786 and before pulling the trigger decided to read the entire 93 pages of posts. Now I more undecided than ever. Will the JVC produce worse SD PQ than my Hitachi RPTV?

deanbrew, the reflectivity of the d-ila is very little, a definite plus in my book.

last week I posted that I was getting smudges on the inside of my screen - likely condensation - but other than 'I hear ya, bother', no one posted with a remedy
or suggest that I call JVC direct. Can this problem be solved other that waiting
for it to go away as the bulb heats up?

thks.
it is inherent with layered screens, think of 2 saran wrap layers on top of each other. i live in the deep south and the summer humidity really acts up on this set with the a/c running. :)

for the record, REX has always given me great service. they even will let me swap my d-ila for the a-10 when my next bulb goes. they had them for the same price when i purchased. also, they dont always know what they got in the store.

<rant>there is a block user feature, and report post feature, please dont get this thread in trouble with the mods it is too valuable to the users and owners of jvc sets.</rant>

If your cable company is like mine, you will still get your current channels in analog. Upgrading to digital cable did nothing to the analog channels on my cable system.

I checked my cable company's website yesterday for information. They say that upgrading to digital cable is advantageous even to conventional television subscribers... that it yields a sharper picture. What that really means in the long run, I don't know. I'm going to have to subscribe to digital cable to get HDTV, so I guess I'll find out when I get my set, whenever that turns out to be.

I upgraded to digital cable when I got my HDTV, because I had to upgrade to ditigal to get the HD package and DVR. Channels 2-78 are still broadcast in analog even with the digital package.

That sounds a bit odd to me... I wonder how common that is?

Check with your cable company to see if yours works the same way.
They've got me over a barrel. If I want cable TV and HDTV, via cable, I've got to got through them... they have a monopoly on cable in my hometown. I'll have to take whatever they offer. They do a great job with my cable modem service and UL/DL speeds. My analog cable is mostly high quality and reliable, so I have some degree of confidence in their product.

The remote control: I find the remote that came with my JVC TV every bit as easy to use as others I've used, except for the lack of separate "input" buttons. You have to scroll through the inputs one-by-one.

I'm not a tough sell on remotes, to be honest. Once I learn the schemes to operating them, I don't even think about it anymore. I hope that I won't have to be using the remote as extensively as Mechanic suggests.

I bought an aftermarket Harmony remote that changes my TV inputs, my receiver inputs and operates whatever I am using at the touch of a single button. I did this to make operating the TV and sound system easier for my wife, not because I didn't like the JVC remote.

I might buy a Harmony remote also, especially since I'm buying an XBox 360 in March. I've heard rave reviews from XBox 360 owners who've purchased them for use with their 360's. Simplifying things for my wife will make the HDTV an easier sell to her ;)

The 525z is the 2004 model, and is earlier than the 2005 52g, 56g and 61z models that came out last summer. I have a Rex store near me, and they only have the earlier 525z model, also. Rex is one step away from a surplus store, and they typically buy close-out models, not the current production models. That is why they are selling leftover 525z models. I've bought stuff at Rex before, but they are not a JVC dealer.

This makes sense now. They really didn't have anything "new" in the store. For example, they had Sony A-10's, but no SXRD's. They didn't even know what I was talking about when I mentioned them. I wouldn't buy from them based on price alone. They're selling the 2004 model for $200 more than Best Buy was selling the 2005 version for!? They were pleasant, helpful people though... within their sphere of knowledge.

I'll give you one more issue to contemplate: reflectivity of the screen. All DLP sets I looked at had very reflective screens. So reflective that you could literally watch yourself watching TV. So reflective that any light from a lamp or window becomes not only distracting, but messes up the picture to an extent far exceeding any technological shortcomings of DLP vs. LCD vs. DILA.

I noticed this also, but I wondered if it would be less evident at home? I did notice that the DILA was softer on its surface. Another good selling point!

I had ruled out old-fashioned CRT rear projection because of the severely limited viewing angles and size and weight of the sets. I know you don't really want one more thing to think about as you shop, but I found this issue to be more important than black levels, CA or any of that other nonsense.

I didn't have to rule out CRT projection sets... my wife put the kibosh on that idea when she announced, "I'm not having a hideous monstrosatie like that in my living room!" You're right though, the viewing angle is a severly limiting factor where these are concerned. I have seen some that really look good straight on, however!

for the record, REX has always given me great service. they even will let me swap my d-ila for the a-10 when my next bulb goes. they had them for the same price when i purchased. also, they dont always know what they got in the store.

I can see them doing this based on my limited exposure to them. I did buy a 27" color set from them about 8 years ago. Where the JVC DILA is concerned, not only do they not have the set that I want, they don't even have last year's model at a competitive price. I'm sure I could haggle them down a bit, but why bother for 1 1/2 old merchandise?

<rant>there is a block user feature, and report post feature, please dont get this thread in trouble with the mods it is too valuable to the users and owners of jvc sets.</rant>


Sorry, I deleted the post.

I was on another JCV Forum and after reading a couple hundred posts about the light failure issue, there was a common thread, JVC sent out ALL the bulbs for free, even on a couple of sets that were past the one year warranty. Furthermore, they are giving a one year warranty on the replacement bulbs - regardless of the age of the television. This goes a long way toward satisfying my concerns in this matter.

JVC sent out ALL the bulbs for free, even on a couple of sets that were past the one year warranty. Furthermore, they are giving a one year warranty on the replacement bulbs - regardless of the age of the television. This goes a long way toward satisfying my concerns in this matter.

Aldread, I didn't know that JVC was doing this. I take that as a very positive sign, tilting the scales even further in the direction of future 52G786 ownership for me. Mucho thanko for sharing this bit of information.

Actually, Onlooker, you posted the link to the forum I read. I read the whole page to get this information.

Actually, Onlooker, you posted the link to the forum I read. I read the whole page to get this information.

LOL... obviously I didn't read that link in any depth. I just remembered someone passing it along earlier in this thread. You still pinned it down, so props to you :)

I have spent a long time lurking, searching and reading posts here and in other forums regarding the JVC 52G786. After nearly two years I took the plunge before Christmas and bought myself a GREAT Christmas gift. :D

As is noted by many here, the majority of the posts are negative regarding just about any product your researching on the internet. I found the more I read however, everyone would agree the picture on this set is simply outstanding on HD broadcasts. I sit about 13' from my set and the SD picture quality is good. I like the PQ of this set on analog better that the PQ I had on my previous set, a Sony WEGA 36" Trinitron.

While there are issues with light failures, I purchased a spare bulb just in case. And I also purchased an extended warranty.

For those of you looking at this set, all I can say from my two month experience is you wont regret it. No screen door effect, no rainbow effect and glare from light sources in my living room have no effect on this set (I couldn't say that about the Sony). Sure there will be those that have had major problems telling you to stay away from this set and others, but you get that when researching cars too. You just have to do careful study and balance the pros and cons for yourself.

There's a thread running at ecoustics.com that approaches what you're asking for. It's a log of bulb life reports, but it's spilled over into other issues. Here's the link:

JVC HD-ILA Bulb life reports, etc. (http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/2/176314.html)

Yes, I read this after my post. I'm glad to have purchased my 52G prior to finding that site, or I may have gone into a tail spin searching for the Holy Grail. I've opted to order a backup bulb and turn in the original if it goes out early. The other issues such as light engine and ballast failures, hopefully, are uncommon. There were even stories of guys hot rodding the units after warranty with better components.

narcboss1; Welcome to the forums. If you are interested take a look here;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154

As is noted by many here, the majority of the posts are negative regarding just about any product your researching on the internet. I found the more I read however, everyone would agree the picture on this set is simply outstanding on HD broadcasts. I sit about 13' from my set and the SD picture quality is good. I like the PQ of this set on analog better that the PQ I had on my previous set, a Sony WEGA 36" Trinitron.

I can attest from my two showroom visits that what you are saying is valid about the HD broadcast quality of the D-ILA. I still haven't seen what it does with SD, but if you say it's better than the PQ on a Sony Wega 36" Trinitron, which I have seen in action, then I have a reference point. That's making a powerful statement, IMO.

For those of you looking at this set, all I can say from my two month experience is you wont regret it. No screen door effect, no rainbow effect and glare from light sources in my living room have no effect on this set (I couldn't say that about the Sony). Sure there will be those that have had major problems telling you to stay away from this set and others, but you get that when researching cars too. You just have to do careful study and balance the pros and cons for yourself.

I need to hear reports like this because I know that there are many others out their who are having the same experience as you with this set, yet they remain silent. I would imagine your experience is more typical. I'm still not firmly settled on this set mostly because I don't have to make up my mind until April/May, when I have the money to buy it.

Thanks for weighing in though... your contribution is very valuable to this thread!

Yes, I read this after my post. I'm glad to have purchased my 52G prior to finding that site, or I may have gone into a tail spin searching for the Holy Grail.

I'm in the same boat. However, I've been able to balance what I've read there by going to XBox gaming forums, and reading opinions from the D-ILA owners there. It's 90% glowing praise! I think people who have a negative opinion or experience to share are going to seek a technical forum, such as this, where their reports and complaints will carry more weight and speak to a more tuned-in audience. There's nothing wrong with that - we need to hear these reports also to help form a better informed opinion. I think it's important to remember the balance.

I've opted to order a backup bulb and turn in the original if it goes out early. The other issues such as light engine and ballast failures, hopefully, are uncommon. There were even stories of guys hot rodding the units after warranty with better components.

The light engine failures worry me the most, but hopefully these show during the first year of use, for the most part. I'm a computer hardware hacker from way back. I'm the type who wouldn't be above modding or hot-rodding my set after the warranty period has ended, if that's what's needed to keep my set running as optimally and maintenance free as possible. Hopefully JVC has at least licked this problem with the lamps by signing on with a new supplier.

Anyone have an opinion on whether I should return my 51710s to CC and pull the trigger on the hd56g786? Viewing distance is about 8-12 feet in both SD and HD. Kids are driving me crazy to get the XBOX up on the 51710s but afraid of burn-in. I can move to the JVC for roughly $500 more but not sure if worth the expense and piece of mind? Any suggestions??

mabnaz,

no burn in on d-ila, also put the xbox in the kids room and you enjoy the d-ila.

mabnaz,

no burn in on d-ila, also put the xbox in the kids room and you enjoy the d-ila.

As a 50 year old mature (cough), male, I have to admit that 50% of the reason I want a large screen HDTV is for XBox 360 gaming. My kids have to run me off our current XBox and PS2 when they want to play.

ahhhhh..... confession is good for the soul :)

I just installed in ADC battery backup on my JVC HD ILA projection TV. I experienced a power failure a week ago which prompted the me to protect the projection lamp life.
PROBLEM: I can't access my service menu screen any longer (Press video status and display keys). I have the JVC service manual but can't see how to re-establish access.
Has anyone experienced this or know how to fix the problem.

I just installed in ADC battery backup on my JVC HD ILA projection TV. I experienced a power failure a week ago which prompted the me to protect the projection lamp life.
PROBLEM: I can't access my service menu screen any longer (Press video status and display keys). I have the JVC service manual but can't see how to re-establish access.
Has anyone experienced this or know how to fix the problem.
check the little switches on the remote? both to the left....i think.

mabnaz; Welcome to the forums. For $500 more, what are you waiting for?? ;)

[QUOTE=OnlookerDelay]...if you say it's better than the PQ on a Sony Wega 36" Trinitron, which I have seen in action, then I have a reference point. That's making a powerful statement, IMO.QUOTE]

My previous set was also a 36 inch Trinitron, and I agree with this assessment. I also went to over the Ecoustics to see what was going on there with respect to lamp life problems. Looks similar to here. There's maybe a couple of dozen people reporting lamp failures on a thread set up for exactly that topic. But they keep responding to each other over and over so it looks like a lot more until you examine carefully.

Those include both Zs and Gs, mainly the former. Again, no way to tell how many people are not responding because they have no problems (indeed, one would be off topic to make such a response on this thread). So just as here, it's impossible to guess at percentages.

As a 50 year old mature (cough), male, I have to admit that 50% of the reason I want a large screen HDTV is for XBox 360 gaming. My kids have to run me off our current XBox and PS2 when they want to play.

ahhhhh..... confession is good for the soul :)

Same here! I must admit too I'm a gamer and can often find me parked in front of the big screen early mornings, before the kids get up, every weekend.....Dad can I play now. Just contemplating whether to stay with the RPTV (calibrated to reduce chance of burn-in) or jump to D-ILA now or wait 2 years and see what technology has emerged and/or been "perfected". Thanks for the input :D

So overall is this a good TV to buy? My Wife's parents are in the market for a 70"+ TV and the JVC had stellar reviews from Sound and Vision. After Reading some of the posts here I am a little leery of recommending it to them. They will be purchasing in April so I have time to research. So of the owners of the 50" or 70" model how many would recommend this TV?

I just installed in ADC battery backup on my JVC HD ILA projection TV. I experienced a power failure a week ago which prompted the me to protect the projection lamp life.
PROBLEM: I can't access my service menu screen any longer (Press video status and display keys). I have the JVC service manual but can't see how to re-establish access.
Has anyone experienced this or know how to fix the problem.

We experience occasional power outages in my neighborhood because the city doesn't maintain our power line right-of-ways as cleanly as they should. A little wind blows, a tree limb falls across a line, and waa-laa... we're out of power for a couple of hours. I'm still learning the ins and outs of HDTV RP; I guess the thing you really want to avoid is an uncontrolled power-down? IOW, if you experience a power failure, you want to power the set down normally, immediately thereafter, by way of a UPC? A power down cycle that would no doubt allow for the cooling fan to continue to run to remove the residual heat from the bulb.

Same here! I must admit too I'm a gamer and can often find me parked in front of the big screen early mornings, before the kids get up, every weekend.....Dad can I play now. Just contemplating whether to stay with the RPTV (calibrated to reduce chance of burn-in) or jump to D-ILA now or wait 2 years and see what technology has emerged and/or been "perfected". Thanks for the input :D

One thing that I've been assured of coming here, and a few of the XBox forums, is that I won't be bothered by lag, when it comes to gaming with the D-ILA line. I also considered holding out for SED, which I believe is going to eventually trump everying else, but I'm projecting it will be a minimum of 2 1/2 years before I'll be able to get my hands on one at a price I can afford. As an impetuous gamer.... I don't have the patience to wait that long to compliment my forthcoming XBox 360 with a display that will show it in its full glory! :o

quick question, i currently have my center channel on the stand under the tv. what type of mount or whatever is available to place a center on top of the set? the speaker is pushing 8lbs or so.

I just finally got my HD-G786 yesterday. Won't be getting digital cable with HD until next week, but the SD looks great!

My question is (I havent seemed to find the answer in a search): what kind of cable do I use for the center channel option on the back of this Display?

I would like to use the TV speakers as my center channel in my HTIB, as this TV is capable of that with the center channel output on the back. But I cant seem to find a cable that would be RCA on one end and just 2 loose wires on the other, to use the spring loaded clips on the back of my receiver. I know this sounds like a dumb question but do I just but a sterio audio cable, then cut the other end off, and then strip the 2 wires in them, or do I take regular speaker wire, and somehow put a RCA end on one end.

I'm a bit confused.

thanks for your replies.

-neo

Extreme Tech has a good article entitled LCoS Display Technology Shootout (Part A). It was just posted 1/31/06 and features the JVC Z886 as one of the contestants. It answers a lot of questions about LCoS, and had a good history of the technology to start things off... we what you think:

http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,1697,1917485,00.asp

I would like to use the TV speakers as my center channel in my HTIB, as this TV is capable of that with the center channel output on the back. But I cant seem to find a cable that would be RCA on one end and just 2 loose wires on the other, to use the spring loaded clips on the back of my receiver. I know this sounds like a dumb question but do I just but a sterio audio cable, then cut the other end off, and then strip the 2 wires in them, or do I take regular speaker wire, and somehow put a RCA end on one end.

I'm a bit confused.

To do it on the cheap, with the quick and easy method. There is a always your Radio Shack for such options.

Option # 1
A 12 footer, 24ga wire with a RCA on one end and spades on the other. And where you will need only to cut off the spade connectors that are on the one end, and then strip the wires to go into your spring loaded clips on your AVR.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102955&cp

Option # 2, same as option # 1, but 24 feet long.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103857&cp

Option # 3
A 3 footer, with a RCA on one end, and pre-stripped and pre-tinned bare leads on the other.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102946&cp

Option # 4
Same as option # 3, but 6 feet long.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103848&cp

Option # 5
Same as option # 3 and 4 but 12 feet long.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103849&cp

Option # 6, same as # 3, 4, and 5, but with a heavier 18ga wire and 24 feet long.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102959&cp

Note:
This one would be my choice for such a use, just due to the fact it is made with a heavier 18ga wire over all the others they show using a much smaller 24ga. Just cut it down if it's too long. Plus it's only $7 for this one with the heavier gage wire, so even if you cut it down to a shorter length, it's not a huge waste of money that you cut it down to be shorter anyway.

Johnla:

Thank you very much! Excellent response! - thats exactly the info I was looking for.

I will probably go with the 18 Gauge wire and cut it down. Do they have those in the store, or online orders only?

Also, in your opinion, do you find the speakers of the JVC Display to be a desirable center channel?

All repsonses are welcome

thanks!

-Neo

I own the 56G--highly recommend it.
esteps

So overall is this a good TV to buy? My Wife's parents are in the market for a 70"+ TV and the JVC had stellar reviews from Sound and Vision. After Reading some of the posts here I am a little leery of recommending it to them. They will be purchasing in April so I have time to research. So of the owners of the 50" or 70" model how many would recommend this TV?

Johnla:

Thank you very much! Excellent response! - thats exactly the info I was looking for.

I will probably go with the 18 Gauge wire and cut it down. Do they have those in the store, or online orders only?

Also, in your opinion, do you find the speakers of the JVC Display to be a desirable center channel?

All repsonses are welcome

thanks!

-Neo

I Tried to use mine as the center channel. It worked ok but def not the same as a quality center channel. I found a center channel top mount shelf that I put mine on. They sell them at BB for around 30 bucks. Also, I don't think wire gauge will matter too much with the connection, as the TV still uses the internal amp for the center channel.

I Tried to use mine as the center channel. It worked ok but def not the same as a quality center channel. I found a center channel top mount shelf that I put mine on. They sell them at BB for around 30 bucks. Also, I don't think wire gauge will matter too much with the connection, as the TV still uses the internal amp for the center channel.

I tried the top shelf thing on my HD56G786 with a Polk Center Channel. The shelf was supposed to rated @ 30 lbs., and I think my little speaker is only 12 lbs. or so.

The 2nd night I had it up -- one of the two support legs sheared off right at the top where it screws into the shelf. Down went speaker and shelf, bouncing off both the wall and the back of the JVC.

Amazingly, it did no damage to the TV. I thought sure it would have jarred something loose or punctured the plastic on the set, but it didn't even put a scratch on it. The speaker got a couple of scratches but you can't see it from where I've parked it underneath the TV in the JVC stand.

For a television that's supposed to be cheaply made out of used beer cans and bailing wire, it certainly has proven itself to me. :D

-bruce
(Almost 850 hours on my first bulb!)

My center speak weighs 26lbs. There is no way I would put it on one of those mounts although I'll bet some do.

Glad to hear that little mishap didn't wreck your stuff.

any other experiences?

I think I will give it a try for 3-7 dollars. :-)

for the cable that is :-)

I like the sleek thin bezel of this Display too much to put some bulky speaker on top of it with a shelf. I might mount it above the TV on the wall but it is not flush with the wall obviously and so I am not sure how that will work out either, so I thought I'd try this solution.

Neo, I used a 19" to 21" TV wall mount to hang my center speaker over the TV.

http://209.187.238.153/movies/Center%20Speaker%20Pic1.jpg

http://209.187.238.153/movies/Center%20Speaker%20Pic2.jpg

The wire is somewhat unsightly, but I think you'll find just about anything preferable to the speakers in the TV.

Hmmm - that is an interesting idea indeed.
Although even above and behind the TV shouldnt be too bad. The sound will travel an extra foot and a half :)

I'm picking up the cable on the way home - I'll see what you guys are talking about

Neo, I used a 19" to 21" TV wall mount to hang my center speaker over the TV.



The wire is somewhat unsightly, but I think you'll find just about anything preferable to the speakers in the TV.

nice, anyone else would like to share how they have mount their center speakers? i need some ideas, thanks in advance

nice, anyone else would like to share how they have mount their center speakers? i need some ideas, thanks in advance


I had my 52" in the corner with about 1.5 feet from the the back of the TV to the corner. I bought a 6' tall metal shelving (each shelf is 1'x1' square) and put it just behind the TV. It's made of 4 metal posts with about 5 shelves in it. I think it was orginally for a bathroom. Then my center channels sits on the very top shelf. It is about 2 feet behind the screen, but at least it's secure. The bonus part is that I can use all the shelving below it for manuals, wires, connecters, etc. It was cheap and some what useful. It doesn't interefere too much with decor as its hidden behind the TV.

doc

I will probably go with the 18 Gauge wire and cut it down. Do they have those in the store, or online orders only?



You can use the in store locator in the other ways to get it options, which is under the add to cart icon. And another window will pop up, where you enter in your Zip code, and it will show the stores in your area that have it in stock.


Or you can try using this, which should be what the above mentioned pop up will give you.


http://www.radioshack.com/product/inStoreAvail.jsp?productId=2102959

docanime:
That sounds like a great idea for corner TV people!

Well - I hooked up my DVD player and my surround last night to my 52G786 and after some complications with the surround and the dvd player - It finally was working and very nice.
I bought that radio shack cable on the way home, but I decided not to take it out of the package, because my tv stand has tall shelves and I was able to place my center channel on top of my dvd player in the top right shelf of my stand.

I was gonna try the tv speakers but I figured it was pointless at this point since the speaker fits fine and from what I have heard, it is always better to use your center channel speaker from your receiver, than your TV speakers. Plus I would prolly get less hassle when returning it to Radio Shack with the package un-opened. :)

Thanks all for the input

My construction company is involved in the home theater business. I agree with the consensus that an external speaker will be superlative to the internal speakers. Consider installing a melamine shelf over the TV using L brackets, that are long enough to bring the shelf out over the TV, and anchors appropriate to the wall material. There are adjustable systems which use thin wall standards fastened to the back wall and brackets that snap into them. This works great in that the bottom shelf is set just above the top of the TV where a center channel can be located. Other AV gear can be place up there, the wires running down behind the TV as needed. If one was planning on loading up the shelves with gear, consider a middle wall standard so the weight will not sag out the shelf over time. Everything mentioned above can be found at the big box lumber/hardware stores.

Also, there are companies that make wall & ceiling mounts for speakers. We have actually 'flown' speakers by suspending them on wire, as they do in the commercial side of the business. Whatever you choose, try to have the speaker out at the same plane as the face of the TV so as not to create any deflection. If you want to get fancy, cant the speaker down to the ear level in the sitting area for better focus.

Actually, I wasn't keen to the idea of placing the speaker on top of the TV, but was encourage by "She who must not be named" [but who is paying 1/2 the bills :) ] who wanted the DVD player below the TV.

Turns out it didnt' fit (a large Sony mega changer) and now I have it off to the side until I can get a new stand.

Just some of the joys of HD ownership. :)

-bruce

I noticed something on the 52" G yesterday which bothered me, and I'm not sure if it's an issue with the set or the Oppo DVD player. I originally had the Oppo connected with component cables, and didn't see this artifacting, but once I'd connected it over HDMI, the problem showed up.

I was using AVIA and DVE to try tuning up the set. When I would switch between test patterns, and ghost of the previous test pattern would persist on the next one. For example, on DVE when accessing a particular section of patterns, there's the roller coaster "title" frame that comes first. Then when I switch from that to the first test pattern, the gray blocks in the center have off color blotches that quite clearly correspond to the rails of the roller coaster on the previous frame. And the blotches persist, they don't disappear over time. If I switch to the next test pattern and then back, the blotches vanish.

Anyone else experience something like this? It only happens over HDMI, and I don't have another HDMI dvd player to test with to isolate the problem. But using component with the same dvd player doesn't evidence this problem, so I'm more included to blame the TV.

My center speak weighs 26lbs. There is no way I would put it on one of those mounts although I'll bet some do.

Glad to here that little mishap didn't wreck your stuff.



My center weighs 37 lbs. There is no way I am putting that above my tv. I have mine directly below it.

I've now had to reset my HDMI input three straight days. Just now I reset it and when I powered back on, it did the usual post-reset blink, blink, blink as the digital input was working and went back to the green screen with no video. I don't want to have to recycle the tv off and on yet again, so I'll just re-hook up the component cables again. Anybody know if there's a typical reason the HDMI input does this? I even have the reset steps bookmarked, but at this point, I've memorized what to do. If I have to do it again in the next two days, I'll just leave it on component. All I need during the Super Bowl is to have to fart around with resetting the HDMI input a couple of times.

I've now had to reset my HDMI input three straight days. Just now I reset it and when I powered back on, it did the usual post-reset blink, blink, blink as the digital input was working and went back to the green screen with no video.

I don't own a D-ILA set (not yet anyway), but from all the research I'm doing, HDMI input failure seems to be behind only bulb life and light engine failure, as the most common malady of this product line. I hope JVC is getting a handle on this.

Well, better the HDMI input than the light engine. At least I can always switch to the component input until a repair is done if it became necessary.

In the meantime, the HDMI input is again reset and working fine.

In the meantime, the HDMI input is again reset and working fine.

Hmmmmm.... strange problem you're dealing with there mrcoaster. I wonder if it's a hardware of a software problem?

When the JVC is not powered up prior to the cable box signal hitting it, the box sends out a screen notice that the TV is not setup for HDMI and suggests that the component input be used. If this what you are referring to, I have found that by making sure that the JVC is on before the cable box is on that the HDMI works consistently.

We are using TWC as our feed and am curious how others were setting up the cable box's resolution output. Do you find the pq to be better by setting the output to 720p?

I've been reading about this HDMI problem in the 1080p threads--does the 720p also have this problem? Which model is yours?
esteps

Well, better the HDMI input than the light engine. At least I can always switch to the component input until a repair is done if it became necessary.

In the meantime, the HDMI input is again reset and working fine.

I've been reading about this HDMI problem in the 1080p threads--does the 720p also have this problem? Which model is yours?
esteps

I just noticed a somewhat puzzling trend with this series. Some dealers are selling the 52G886 cheaper than the 52G786. Aren't these the same set, other than one having the brushed silver cabinet while the other is matt black? Is the black cabinet that much more popular that it rates a higher price? Just curious....

I just noticed a somewhat puzzling trend with this series. Some dealers are selling the 52G886 cheaper than the 52G786. Aren't these the same set, other than one having the brushed silver cabinet while the other is matt black? Is the black cabinet that much more popular that it rates a higher price? Just curious....

Interesting. If the input here is any indication, the black 786's are far more popular. I like the look of my 886 but could've gone with either.

Interesting. If the input here is any indication, the black 786's are far more popular. I like the look of my 886 but could've gone with either.

I know that we're not supposed to quote prices here, so I'll just speak in relative terms. I've seen the 886's selling for enough less than the 786's to make me drop my preference for black over brushed silver. They both look nice, but I give the nod to black because it call less attention to itself in service.

That's exactly why I bought the silver 56G last August.
esteps

I know that we're not supposed to quote prices here, so I'll just speak in relative terms. I've seen the 886's selling for enough less than the 786's to make me drop my preference for black over brushed silver. They both look nice, but I give the nod to black because it call less attention to itself in service.

Are there any tweaks out there for improving the PQ on SD tv? I have digital cable and the HD channels look great but the non HD channels have what almost looks like pixilation around objects moving. Most noticable during sports with many players on a field etc moving around; almost like a blurry pixilated cloud around each one of them.

Cable to the comcast box, component to input 2 on the TV. I have the 56 inch G series that sams club sells under a different model number.

Are there any tweaks out there for improving the PQ on SD tv? I have digital cable and the HD channels look great but the non HD channels have what almost looks like pixilation around objects moving. Most noticable during sports with many players on a field etc moving around; almost like a blurry pixilated cloud around each one of them.

Cable to the comcast box, component to input 2 on the TV. I have the 56 inch G series that sams club sells under a different model number.


Ditto. Sports is HD is the greatest thing about this set. Sports in SD is the worst thing about it! :(

I know that we're not supposed to quote prices here, so I'll just speak in relative terms. I've seen the 886's selling for enough less than the 786's to make me drop my preference for black over brushed silver. They both look nice, but I give the nod to black because it call less attention to itself in service.

Capitalism in action. Perhaps the silver one is being sold at a discount because not as many people want to buy it over the black bezel one if they're at the same price. If demand is lower, then they must lower the price to pull in people who don't value the color as much.

Are there any tweaks out there for improving the PQ on SD tv? I have digital cable and the HD channels look great but the non HD channels have what almost looks like pixilation around objects moving. Most noticable during sports with many players on a field etc moving around; almost like a blurry pixilated cloud around each one of them.


I have all digital cable as well and certainly SD is not in the same league as HD. However the SD channels that seem to be the best are the cable channels, ie, those that are delivered soley by cable and are not broadcast. The Movie Network for example is excellent looking even in SD. The broadcast channels on the other hand, including my local channels, are by far the worst looking. Blame the source, not the TV.

I had a problem with pixelization on the HD channels, particularly during sports. At the time I connected my TV to the cable box using component cables. This almost competely disappeared when I connected my TV to my cable box (SA8300) using an HDMI cable. My theory is that the processing required to convert the digital cable feed to analogue for the component cable, and then again back to digital for the TV, resulted in overhead that reduced the quality of the picture particularly during scenes with lots of action.

I don't think your TV is at fault here. Try using an HDMI connection to your JVC, or perhaps upgrade your cable box (I don't know much about the one you're using). As well, it could just be the quality of the material coming down the cable, which you will not be able to do much about.

Are there any tweaks out there for improving the PQ on SD tv? I have digital cable and the HD channels look great but the non HD channels have what almost looks like pixilation around objects moving. Most noticable during sports with many players on a field etc moving around; almost like a blurry pixilated cloud around each one of them.

Cable to the comcast box, component to input 2 on the TV. I have the 56 inch G series that sams club sells under a different model number.

Do you have the "sharpness" or "detail" turned all the way down? That is the first thing to do. Well, in fact, that's the only thing I can think of other than sitting a little further away.

My experience is that SD quality depends on the channel. I have digital cable, and some SD channels look great -- like Disney Channel -- while others totally suck -- like Fox News. My understanding (hope it's right!) is that even if you have digital cable, some of the channels may be still delivered analog to the cable co. The good news is: SD can be delivered to look good on the JVC and other HD sets. And based on an article I read in USA Today a month or so ago, cable companies are aware of the problem and are working to fix it.

My experience is that SD quality depends on the channel. I have digital cable, and some SD channels look great -- like Disney Channel -- while others totally suck -- like Fox News. My understanding (hope it's right!) is that even if you have digital cable, some of the channels may be still delivered analog to the cable co. The good news is: SD can be delivered to look good on the JVC and other HD sets. And based on an article I read in USA Today a month or so ago, cable companies are aware of the problem and are working to fix it.


I agree completely. There are SD channels that look quite good on my TV, while others look like crap. And you are probably right about the cable companies. I think they are probably getting complaints and should be looking to improve the quality of the lousy channels.

I agree completely. There are SD channels that look quite good on my TV, while others look like crap. And you are probably right about the cable companies. I think they are probably getting complaints and should be looking to improve the quality of the lousy channels.

But do we know if the digitizing of previous analog channels is done at the cable company or by the individual channel sources? Some of the quality control may be out of the hands of your cable company. I have comcast and basically everything is digital. The SD quality is.... SD. I didn't expect a lot.

Also, I introduced a bunch of friends to LCOS technology. They loved the quality of the Super Bowl game. It was bright, crisp, and no lag. Hopefully, others showed off their JVCs yesterday. :D

My guess is that it's the cable companies that are doing the digitizing in most cases for over the air broadcasters. My local TV station is not exactly rolling in the kind of cash that they would need to convert their analogue equipement to digital right away. Eventually all of the broadcasters will have to convert to digital, but if they are not a large network affiliate they will probably leave it to the last minute.

I have all digital cable as well and certainly SD is not in the same league as HD. However the SD channels that seem to be the best are the cable channels, ie, those that are delivered soley by cable and are not broadcast. The Movie Network for example is excellent looking even in SD. The broadcast channels on the other hand, including my local channels, are by far the worst looking. Blame the source, not the TV.

I had a problem with pixelization on the HD channels, particularly during sports. At the time I connected my TV to the cable box using component cables. This almost competely disappeared when I connected my TV to my cable box (SA8300) using an HDMI cable. My theory is that the processing required to convert the digital cable feed to analogue for the component cable, and then again back to digital for the TV, resulted in overhead that reduced the quality of the picture particularly during scenes with lots of action.

I don't think your TV is at fault here. Try using an HDMI connection to your JVC, or perhaps upgrade your cable box (I don't know much about the one you're using). As well, it could just be the quality of the material coming down the cable, which you will not be able to do much about.



to counter if i may, i have noticed less pixelation via componet on many HD channels and a marked increase in pixelation on SD channels via HDMI, it is most definetly source as opposed to connection.

to counter if i may, i have noticed less pixelation via componet on many HD channels and a marked increase in pixelation on SD channels via HDMI, it is most definetly source as opposed to connection.

Interesting. HDMI solved my pixelization problem. Watching the Superbowl yesterday I was watching for it particularly when the ABC promo swooshed across the screen, and there was absolutely none. Last year with my Hitahi set hooked up to the same cable box with component, the pixelization was bad and prompted comments from my friends who were watching with me. I also read some reviews about the JVC DILA sets and several noted improved picture using HDMI. But, you're right about not all cable companies in all locations being equal.

to counter if i may, i have noticed less pixelation via componet on many HD channels and a marked increase in pixelation on SD channels via HDMI, it is most definetly source as opposed to connection.

I found the same before going with cablecard. Source into my set leaves much to be desired as I am one of 35 units going out of the same junction. Don't know if that is a factor but it seems like it would be. Cable compression regardless of that fact is also relevant. Downloaded HD on my xbox 360 looks fantastic. Why can't my cable look like that? Cost saving compression I would guess.

Do you have the "sharpness" or "detail" turned all the way down? That is the first thing to do. Well, in fact, that's the only thing I can think of other than sitting a little further away.

Yes lowering the detail actually improved the picture a little. Was the only thing I found to do that.

I have to say though just watching the HD channels alone is the most satisfying thing about this TV, its beautiful!

Yes lowering the detail actually improved the picture a little. Was the only thing I found to do that.

I have to say though just watching the HD channels alone is the most satisfying thing about this TV, its beautiful!

I used the AVIA DVD to calibrate my system. As a result I lowered the detail to a setting of -20 although -30 would have been better, I left the picture setting at 0, and lowered the brightness setting to -10 to improve the grey levels.

Well my fix lasted just over 35 days. Yep this is screwed up. Weird thing. Since my last hdmi board was replaced I had to go into the service menu after each day upon powering the set on as for some reason the new hdmi board kept resetting the R G B drives to 128 everytime the set was powered off. Now yesterday I go to the tv input and all of a sudden green screen and I noticed that my drive settings didn't go back to the 128 it does each day. So looks like there is some kind of weird thing going on. I think it might be the whole damn tv has some kind of faulty leakage of power somewhere. It wouldn't surprise me if there are cracks in the welds or something. I bet that replacing this next board will have the same issues down the road. I am having a tech come out on thursday. I wonder what I should tell the guy. All I can say is I wish I never bought this thing. 1 tuner board 1 hdmi board and 1 bulb all in 6 months and now going on another hdmi board. I think they should try replacing the whole damn inside.

Well my fix lasted just over 35 days. Yep this is screwed up. Weird thing. Since my last hdmi board was replaced I had to go into the service menu after each day upon powering the set on as for some reason the new hdmi board kept resetting the R G B drives to 128 everytime the set was powered off. Now yesterday I go to the tv input and all of a sudden green screen and I noticed that my drive settings didn't go back to the 128 it does each day. So looks like there is some kind of weird thing going on. I think it might be the whole damn tv has some kind of faulty leakage of power somewhere. It wouldn't surprise me if there are cracks in the welds or something. I bet that replacing this next board will have the same issues down the road. I am having a tech come out on thursday. I wonder what I should tell the guy. All I can say is I wish I never bought this thing. 1 tuner board 1 hdmi board and 1 bulb all in 6 months and now going on another hdmi board. I think they should try replacing the whole damn inside.

It's horror stories like that that have me reluctant to pull the trigger on purchasing this set. Please let us know what happens after the service visit.

It's horror stories like that that have me reluctant to pull the trigger on purchasing this set. Please let us know what happens after the service visit.


Will let you all know. Damn I wish I could just get my money back and buy a panny 900 or the sanyo z4 projector and a decent 110 inch screen for less than I paid for this set.

Will let you all know. Damn I wish I could just get my money back and buy a panny 900 or the sanyo z4 projector and a decent 110 inch screen for less than I paid for this set.

I almost feel like I'm rolling the dice with this set... right now I'm just trying to see what the odds are. There's a really good thread going in the XBox.com audio/video forum right now about the JVC D-ILA, and all who own it have nothing but praise for it, and have had no serious problems. The worst one is a guy who has an intermittant HDMI connection, but he's able to reset it. I have a feeling it will finally go belly-up on him (the HDMI).

Had I only read that thread, I would have no problem buying this set. Most of you here have more technical savvy, so I value your opinions. I think the scales might be tipped in favor of having those who are having problems to come here to swap war stories and seek advice. Those who aren't having problems are kicked back enjoying their sets, at least that's my guess.

Still, I'm anxious to see how your predicament is resolved.

Hey all you JVC "G" series owners....

I have available the service manual on CD FREE for anyone who wants it ($5.00 shipping/handling) .. I no longer own this display, and I forgot that I ordered this CD on EBAY from "CDGUYZ" out of Canada.

First PM will own it.

Thanks

I almost feel like I'm rolling the dice with this set... right now I'm just trying to see what the odds are.

I was a little concerned when I first got my JVC. Previously I had owned an Hitachi CRT Projection TV which never had a problem. They delivered it, it turned it on and enjoyed it for three years. My JVC was delivered with an HDMI port that didn't work, and two weeks into my ownership the screen turned green for a minute and then snapped back to normal. A technician checked it out and since I had only had the set for three weeks the shop swapped it for another one. Since then (late October) I have had no problems. Last time I checked the hours on my bulb my TV viewing habit seems to be about 2000 hours per year, so I guess my bulb has been going now for about 5 - 600 hours. We shall see how long it lasts. My impression to this point is that this set is a tad fragile especially compared to my Hitachi which was built like a tank.

Could someone explain to me in easy terms how to check my bulb life.

Could someone explain to me in easy terms how to check my bulb life.

This is how you read the bulb hours. On your remote first push sleep, then push display and video status at the same time. then select 4 (even thought not on the screen) Navigate to D070, read the left most three digits. use this number *256, navigate to D071, read the left most three digits, add to first number. = total hours. i.e. D070=002 and D071=060 then total hours = (2*256)+(60)=572.

I almost feel like I'm rolling the dice with this set... right now I'm just trying to see what the odds are. There's a really good thread going in the XBox.com audio/video forum right now about the JVC D-ILA, and all who own it have nothing but praise for it, and have had no serious problems. The worst one is a guy who has an intermittant HDMI connection, but he's able to reset it. I have a feeling it will finally go belly-up on him (the HDMI).

Had I only read that thread, I would have no problem buying this set. Most of you here have more technical savvy, so I value your opinions. I think the scales might be tipped in favor of having those who are having problems to come here to swap war stories and seek advice. Those who aren't having problems are kicked back enjoying their sets, at least that's my guess.

Still, I'm anxious to see how your predicament is resolved.

Everything is a gamble. You can look at any set on the marked, and SOMEONE will have a problem with it (bad electronic, bad bulb, bad etc). They are never going to get 100% perfection in the manufacturing process. The longer you keep on waiting, then the longer you are without this great TV or any TV.

Maybe you just need to make sure you get it from a place that will service/replay/refund the set quickly if that's necessary.

D

My impression to this point is that this set is a tad fragile especially compared to my Hitachi which was built like a tank.

Probably true, but you're comparing apples to oranges. CRT rear projection is an established technology that has been around for many years. The new DLP, LCOS and LCD-RP are all new technologies, and all are "fragile" or "unproven" or "unreliable" - take your pick of adjective. I am not convinced that JVC as a brand or DILA as a technology is any worse than other similar sets out there. If reliability is your main concern, I wouldn't buy any DLP, LCOS or LCD-RP TV. But then you have to be willing to accept other drawbacks. There is no perfect or optimal brand or model, I don't think.

One option is to buy an extended warranty, of course. I bought an extended warranty plus an extra lamp extended warranty (that will replace all bulbs). I normally never buy extended warranties for cars or electronics, but thought it might be prudent in this instance.

For what it's worth, I have had zero problems with my JVC 61z786 - no bulb burnouts, no light engine replacements, no HDMI problems (and I do have my cable box connected through the HDMI input), no green screens. I can't help but knock on wood as I type that, however. But I am very satisfied with my TV.

Puchasing any microchip display is a gamble, but a smart gambler will at least look at the odds first. Seeing how I recieved 3 different Gx86's and all three had issues right out of the box that ranged from moderate to severe (two developing very severe issues within 2 weeks), I just laugh at the thought that I ended up stuck with a Gx86 (long story).
While it may be true that only a small segment of those who have experienced issues with the Gx86 series take the time to post here (it is pretty obvious that criticism is held in very low regard), everyone who reads this forum should also consider the fact that many posts are from those with a "financial interest" in promoting JVC LCOS : This forum is certainly NOT a medium on which to base ones purchasing decisions.

While it may be true that only a small segment of those who have experienced issues with the Gx86 series take the time to post here (it is pretty obvious that criticism is held in very low regard), everyone who reads this forum should also consider the fact that many posts are from those with a "financial interest" in promoting JVC LCOS : This forum is certainly NOT a medium on which to base ones purchasing decisions.

While I cannot comment on the reasoning behind the postings of other people, there are those of us who do not have a financial interest in promoting the TV. What do you mean by "many"? 5%? 50%? 95%? How do you know this? Couldn't the same thing be said about the LCD, Sony's SXRD tv, DLP, or plasma?

D

There has been some discussion on this in the past, even the concept of changing the color of the poster handle, etc., for those known to have financially motivated reasons to post here. Few of them are careless enough to allow this revelation, and it is not really something that is actually workable, as it is obviously simple to grab a new nick with nothing more than a web based email addy. As for percentages, that is something that is also pretty hard to determine. I have researched a few that I was suspicious of, some are even careless enough to let it be known they own an AV business, etc. There is a huge markup on the 720p sets at many retail outlets that has even survived the advent of the improved 1080p version release.

Hey all you JVC "G" series owners....

I have available the service manual on CD FREE for anyone who wants it ($5.00 shipping/handling) .. I no longer own this display, and I forgot that I ordered this CD on EBAY from "CDGUYZ" out of Canada.

First PM will own it.

Thanks

why not just give it away? you no doubt have gotten loads of free advice on AVS so return the favor, eh? :)

There has been some discussion on this in the past, even the concept of changing the color of the poster handle, etc., for those known to have financially motivated reasons to post here. Few of them are careless enough to allow this revelation, and it is not really something that is actually workable, as it is obviously simple to grab a new nick with nothing more than a web based email addy. As for percentages, that is something that is also pretty hard to determine. I have researched a few that I was suspicious of, some are even careless enough to let it be known they own an AV business, etc. There is a huge markup on the 720p sets at many retail outlets that has even survived the advent of the improved 1080p version release.
Judging from the posts here, I don't think that there is a bias in favour of JVC LCOS technology being pushed by people with a financial stake in selling these sets. If anything, I think the bias goes the other way. People who are unhappy with their TV's post here. The happy consumers are sitting at home enjoying their sets without a second thought.

why not just give it away? you no doubt have gotten loads of free advice on AVS so return the favor, eh? :)

OK its free...Just PM me with address............

GOOD THOUGHT!!

This is how you read the bulb hours. On your remote first push sleep, then push display and video status at the same time. then select 4...

I've tried this a couple of times, and all that happens is I go to antenna input and the set selects channel 4. I'm obviously not entering into the appropriate menu. Any suggestions?

By the way, I don't have a "sleep" button, only a "sleep timer", are they the same thing?

...I recieved 3 different Gx86's and all three had issues right out of the box ...many posts are from those with a "financial interest" in promoting JVC LCOS ...

Uh let me get this right. We're supposed to be suspicious of anyone who likes their D-ILA, but swallow your story about getting three bad ones in a row?

I've tried this a couple of times, and all that happens is I go to antenna input and the set selects channel 4. I'm obviously not entering into the appropriate menu. Any suggestions?

By the way, I don't have a "sleep" button, only a "sleep timer", are they the same thing?

on my JVC remote the 'SLEEP' button is directly below the POWER button :D

I've tried this a couple of times, and all that happens is I go to antenna input and the set selects channel 4. I'm obviously not entering into the appropriate menu. Any suggestions?

By the way, I don't have a "sleep" button, only a "sleep timer", are they the same thing?
yes sleep timer = sleep, also have both switches to the left or right, um, uh i cant remember, they both need to go one way though.

Uh let me get this right. We're supposed to be suspicious of anyone who likes their D-ILA, but swallow your story about getting three bad ones in a row?

No, instead you should make every attempt to discount and discourage any form of criticism as this may contradict what seems to be the primary objective by many who visit here: obtain a warm fuzzy and pat on the back for making such an intelligent and informed purchasing decision. :rolleyes:

Everything is a gamble. You can look at any set on the marked, and SOMEONE will have a problem with it (bad electronic, bad bulb, bad etc). They are never going to get 100% perfection in the manufacturing process.

True, but it's obvious that some manufacturers have tighter quality control than others. I'm trying to find my comfort level with this.

The longer you keep on waiting, then the longer you are without this great TV or any TV.

I'm so anxious to get into HDTV bliss that if I had the money, I'd no doubt buy an HD-52G786 today... knowing that I'm taking a higher risk with it than I have with any display, or monitor I've bought in 30 years. I've got a governing factor at this point over which I have no control... finances. I won't be in position to buy one until late April, at the earliest. That's why it may appear that I'm dragging my feet.

Maybe you just need to make sure you get it from a place that will service/replay/refund the set quickly if that's necessary.

I've got to weigh buying one locally for $600 more than I could order it for. If I go with the former, it's probably going to delay my purchase for another 2 or 3 months. But you're right, these are factors that need to be considered heavily in a decision like this.

I'm noticing some weird sort of artifacting that I can only blame on the image processor/scaler. I'm watching TN vs KY on ESPNHD. I don't notice the problem with any of the in-game logos/text etc., but for example on the T-Mobile commercial, the edges of the purple "T" seem to be alive. It almost looks like combing from bad deinterlacing or lack of deinterlacing. I've noticed this at other times with other content, both over HDMI and component, cable or OTA. It seems to occur with text on bright/contrasting colors.

I suppose it's possible some mixed source content broadcasts confuses the image processor. I actually noticed this in-store before buying the set. Other sets getting the same content didn't exhibit the problem. I'm not complaining, I think I've only ever noticed it during commercials, but it makes me wonder if it isn't happening in a more subtle fashion with other content.

Anybody else see this sort of thing?

No, instead you should make every attempt to discount and discourage any form of criticism as this may contradict what seems to be the primary objective by many who visit here: obtain a warm fuzzy and pat on the back for making such an intelligent and informed purchasing decision. :rolleyes:
can i have a hug instead of a pat?

No, instead you should make every attempt to discount and discourage any form of criticism as this may contradict what seems to be the primary objective by many who visit here: obtain a warm fuzzy and pat on the back for making such an intelligent and informed purchasing decision. :rolleyes:

Heh. I'm reminded of an old saying "one good thing about self-pity is you don't have to doubt its sincerity".

Seriously, I've never seen any attempt to "discount or discourage any form of criticism". It's your editorializing is the problem, not people relaying their personal experience.

Jakles, thanks so much. I will try this as soon as I get home tonight.

your editorializing is the problem

Well thats called freedom of speech, and if you dont like it that's just really too damn bad. :p

I have pointed out several severe shortcommings of these sets and these issues can quite easily be confirmed by the owners here. The question is if these problems can/will be rectified by JVC, or if we are all just stuck with defective technology. Then again, if JVC is actually unaware of a design defect, they are certainly never going to fix it.
As many automobile manufacturers have found out, if you choose a path that entails shortchanging your customers, your reputation will suffer, and sooner or later you will pay the price.
One should keep in mind that plenty of folks were ecstatic about their Pinto's and K-cars, would even argue all day about how happy they were with their purchase, but that certainly did not change the fact that they were junk.

Well thats called freedom of speech, and if you dont like it that's just really too damn bad. :p

I have pointed out several severe shortcommings of these sets and these issues can quite easily be confirmed by the owners here. The question is if these problems can/will be rectified by JVC, or if we are all just stuck with defective technology. Then again, if JVC is actually unaware of a design defect, they are certainly never going to fix it.
As many automobile manufacturers have found out, if you choose a path that entails shortchanging your customers, your reputation will suffer, and sooner or later you will pay the price.
One should keep in mind that plenty of folks were ecstatic about their Pinto's and K-cars, would even argue all day about how happy they were with their purchase, but that certainly did not change the fact that they were junk.

Too early to tell on longevity of my 52g886. I am enjoying this set but do not have a warm fuzzy feeling on long term reliability. As a hedge, I went with a 3 yr EW and if it dies after that period, I'll buy something else. My first set was defective on arrival. Second has a stuck grren pixel at top of screen but not noticeable. Bad black level etc. aside, the set is a good performer for my needs (mostly HD sports). If my experience with JVC turns negative, I will look to other mfgs. Never drove a pinto or k-car but I did have an 85 Ford Tempo at one time. Worst auto experience of my life and never patronized that organization again. Look where they are now. So far JVC has been very good about the set swap out and overnighting me a replacement bulb after three month failure. As long as they're willing to support their customer base through bugs, I'll support them.

Say, does anyone know if there are direct-select remote codes for the "video status" modes, or where I can find them? I've got a Harmony 520 programmed for my 52G but near as I can tell the Harmony DB didn't have direct access commands for the video status.

I have pointed out several severe shortcommings of these sets and these issues can quite easily be confirmed by the owners here. The question is if these problems can/will be rectified by JVC, or if we are all just stuck with defective technology. Then again, if JVC is actually unaware of a design defect, they are certainly never going to fix it.

I'm all for critiquing a set and let the manufacturer know of such problems to try and make the sets more reliable. Hopefully, that can only make things better for the consumer.

Who really knows if the JVCs are REALLY less reliable than one from someone else? I hope people trying to find the best set for them look at all opinions (good and bad) and not be jaded by people with bad set experiences who question the motives of fans with good set experiences. Point out biases on both sides. I'm sure it exists (but can't and don't want to prove). "Don't get the JVC because it breaks down too easily. BTW, I also have lots of Samsung sets to sell that can also break down but probably not as often as the JVCs".

I see some really strange behavior with an xbox360 connected to my new JVC HD-52G786. I'm running at 720p.

I'm not sure whether to blame the game, tv, or xbox360. I'm worried that it's a hardware problem since I don't remembering seeing this until the last day or so (I hooked it up last saturday).

Here's a screenshot: (link removed by request of host)

In some cases a character's hair is extremely aliased/jittery like this. Everything else in the scene looks great. It seems like it may only happen in areas with very thin detailed lines. I'd blame the game, but it looks so bad I have trouble accepting that.

Any kind of TV/cable flaws that can cause selective problems like this?

Hard to say with a still image, but it looks similar to what I was describing I've noticed mainly with text in commercials.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7084856&&#post7084856

Have you seen this game on a different display? I don't have that one but have not experienced any such issues with COD2, PDZ, PGR, or kameo.

Probably true, but you're comparing apples to oranges. CRT rear projection is an established technology that has been around for many years. The new DLP, LCOS and LCD-RP are all new technologies, and all are "fragile" or "unproven" or "unreliable" - take your pick of adjective. I am not convinced that JVC as a brand or DILA as a technology is any worse than other similar sets out there. If reliability is your main concern, I wouldn't buy any DLP, LCOS or LCD-RP TV. But then you have to be willing to accept other drawbacks. There is no perfect or optimal brand or model, I don't think.

One option is to buy an extended warranty, of course. I bought an extended warranty plus an extra lamp extended warranty (that will replace all bulbs). I normally never buy extended warranties for cars or electronics, but thought it might be prudent in this instance.

For what it's worth, I have had zero problems with my JVC 61z786 - no bulb burnouts, no light engine replacements, no HDMI problems (and I do have my cable box connected through the HDMI input), no green screens. I can't help but knock on wood as I type that, however. But I am very satisfied with my TV.

I also own the JVC 61Z786 and I've had no issues, no bulb burnouts, no light engine replacements, no HDMI problems, heck HDMI is BEAUTIFUL on this set.

My neighbor who had purchased a G series had a number of issues and has since returned his set for a 61Z786 and he is happy.

I was under the impression that both sets internally were the same except for the external cabinet color, so what gives?

I see some really strange behavior with an xbox360 connected to my new JVC HD-52G786. I'm running at 720p.

I'm not sure whether to blame the game, tv, or xbox360. I'm worried that it's a hardware problem since I don't remembering seeing this until the last day or so (I hooked it up last saturday).

In some cases a character's hair is extremely aliased/jittery like this. Everything else in the scene looks great. It seems like it may only happen in areas with very thin detailed lines. I'd blame the game, but it looks so bad I have trouble accepting that.

Any kind of TV/cable flaws that can cause selective problems like this?
Truesper:

I have a Sony WEGA XBR 36" direct view CRT running at 1080i. When I bring up that same character at the selection screen, I do notice aliasing on his hair. I see it on a patch of hair covering his right eye (our left), and on his hair below his left eye extending up to just over his left eye.

As he sways during animation, the thinner parts of his hair kind of waver back and forth like the shimmer of a heat wave from hot blacktop. That's about the best way I can describe it in non-technical terms. I believe it must be an artifact created by the game not employing anti-aliasing or something similar.

If this is the effect you are concerned about, then don't worry about it. I see it on my 36" CRT running at 1080i. Every other game looks great, and I've only seen this on the character select screen of DOA 4.

Well thats called freedom of speech, and if you dont like it that's just really too damn bad.

Well I'm glad I got you admit that your motive in being here is soapboxing rather than sharing. The other forum participants are intelligent enough to draw the appropriate conclusions from that. Now back to the topic of JVC G-series HDTVs.

on my JVC remote the 'SLEEP' button is directly below the POWER button :D

Hmm. That's strange. I have no buttons directly below the power button. Just empty plastic.

My remote has model number RM-C15G. What's yours? I'm asking that because I wonder if I can solve the problem with another remote.

Say, does anyone know if there are direct-select remote codes for the "video status" modes, or where I can find them? I've got a Harmony 520 programmed for my 52G but near as I can tell the Harmony DB didn't have direct access commands for the video status.


I have a 520 as well. As far as I can tell there aren't direct codes for video status modes. I'd like to be wrong though.

You can put it into Theatre Pro when you switch to DVD, but you have to toggle it back to your preffered mode when you switch to another source. I often forget to do so and wonder why the settings look wrong.

The RM-C15G is the previous years remote with direct input. The current remote is RM-C14G, which requires toggling for the inputs, and where SLEEP is directly beneath POWER.
Clarification: By direct input I am referring to Video-1,2,3,4 and Digital.
esteps

Hmm. That's strange. I have no buttons directly below the power button. Just empty plastic.

My remote has model number RM-C15G. What's yours? I'm asking that because I wonder if I can solve the problem with another remote.

I have a 520 as well. As far as I can tell there aren't direct codes for video status modes. I'd like to be wrong though.

You can put it into Theatre Pro when you switch to DVD, but you have to toggle it back to your preffered mode when you switch to another source. I often forget to do so and wonder why the settings look wrong.


Can't you just use the learning function?

I have a 520 as well. As far as I can tell there aren't direct codes for video status modes. I'd like to be wrong though.

You can put it into Theatre Pro when you switch to DVD, but you have to toggle it back to your preffered mode when you switch to another source. I often forget to do so and wonder why the settings look wrong.

Poking around the JVC site, I found a document for the serial control interface. With it, you can directly select inputs, video status, and aspect (among other things). I'm guessing the same could be done with a remote if we just knew the codes to send. I've emailed customer support about it, but I'm not expecting to get anything out of them.

Learning isn't an option. The remote that comes with the set doesn't have direct select for inputs, video mode, or aspect. Which begs the question, where did they get the direct input select codes for the the Harmony database?

Poking around the JVC site, I found a document for the serial control interface. With it, you can directly select inputs, video status, and aspect (among other things). I'm guessing the same could be done with a remote if we just knew the codes to send. I've emailed customer support about it, but I'm not expecting to get anything out of them.

Learning isn't an option. The remote that comes with the set doesn't have direct select for inputs, video mode, or aspect. Which begs the question, where did they get the direct input select codes for the the Harmony database?

I was thinking the remote had direct select for video mode at least, but I guess not. I never use it so I haven't looked at it for a long time.
The remotes for the older model JVC's had direct select for the inputs - the database probably has the same codes and they work with the newer sets as well.

I see some really strange behavior with an xbox360 connected to my new JVC HD-52G786. I'm running at 720p.

I'm not sure whether to blame the game, tv, or xbox360. I'm worried that it's a hardware problem since I don't remembering seeing this until the last day or so (I hooked it up last saturday).

In some cases a character's hair is extremely aliased/jittery like this. Everything else in the scene looks great. It seems like it may only happen in areas with very thin detailed lines. I'd blame the game, but it looks so bad I have trouble accepting that.

Any kind of TV/cable flaws that can cause selective problems like this?
that aint your set it is your dreambox1.5 :D

I would be more concerned about the ghosting; pretty damn obvious in the "Player 1" box.. The cause of the ghosting IS the set, and if you placed even a decent RPLCD set next to this showing the exact same image, you would likely be about as mad as I am at their so called "stunning" display. :(

I would be more concerned about the ghosting; pretty damn obvious in the "Player 1" box.. The cause of the ghosting IS the set, and if you placed even a decent RPLCD set next to this showing the exact same image, you would likely be about as mad as I am at their so called "stunning" display. :(

What do you mean by ghosting, some sort of response-time issue? It's seems fairly isolated for that. Are there any known "pathological" colour/patterns that are known to exhhibit "ghosting" on these (or any) displays?

Maybe I'll lug the xbox360 in to best buy and bother them to hook it up to a DLP set. (What's a good benchmark model?)

It's really strange looking in motion.

you guys know anything about wireless broadband? they just opened up a 3g EVDO tower 5 miles from my house and they say they are getting 400-700kbps downloads, i know this off topic but i would really love to ditch dial up.


as for the ghosting in the above link would that be confined to one area of the screen or should it be all over? plus that shot looks a little off center and angled and everyone will get ghosting from off angle of these types of screens, for instance if you stand in front of the set and look down.

In the pic that was posted above, look at the text that says "PLAYER 1" in the upper left corner. The outline you see around the letters is vertical ghosting in its most obvious form, most prominent on the left of the "P" in the word PLAYER, but obviously effecting other elements. On a moving image, the ghosting (which is present over the entire screen) will be mixed in with the other elements, making it much harder to spot directly, but the overall result is decreased clarity of the picture (increased clarity is the whole idea behind HD) which some mistake for an intentional softer picture attributed to LCOS. Vertical ringing (aka Moiré) is also present to a fairly pronounced degree on the Gx86 series, but that is not something that will typically effect overall picture quality. The fact is that a typical test pattern will reveal the true quality of the picture you see. As more folks hook these sets up to computers and other boxes cabable of a more fixed image display, issues such as the ghosting will become much more apparent.

plus that shot looks a little off center and angled and everyone will get ghosting from off angle of these types of screens, for instance if you stand in front of the set and look down.

That is incorrect.. the angle of view will have little effect on the presence of a display flaw like this; no more than it would have on the overall picture. I can see it from 15 ft away at angles that almost degrade the picture to a point of obscurity, as well as when I am 7ft. directly centered in front of the screen. When I point this issue out in a random pic that someone else happened to post, it's pretty hard to argue that it does not exist. Once you know what the issue looks like, you can more easily spot it in even the best HD broadcast. This is not an issue localized to a few rare examples of the Gx86, IMO it is present in all the Gx86 sets that JVC has manufactured thus far. Like I mentioned before, the issue was present in all three of the Gx86 sets that I examined in my home, and I have yet to see a picture of a Gx86 display posted here that does not exhibit it.
It will be interesting to see if there is possibly a rectification for this issue. I will be having a JVC tech come out shortly to see if there is anything that can be done. Would have done so sooner, but the bulb blew after about 600 hrs, sheesh..
Another observation that I have made is that the ghosting issue seems to be compounded as resolution decreases: A standard definition broadcast seems to increase its effects, sometimes resulting in what appears as mutiple lines of ghosting rather than a single line. This would explain why the Gx86 has such a hard time displaying standard def well compared to other sets. Tuning the detail down substantially does help hide the ghosting somewhat, and that is likely why many suggest turning the detail down all the way (or close) in order to improve the SD image. With an HD broadcast, tuning down the detail enough to even slightly reduce ghosting results in an image that is obviously too blury for it to still be called HD.

BS..
i wasnt attacking you, peaceout. :)

I also own the JVC 61Z786 and I've had no issues, no bulb burnouts, no light engine replacements, no HDMI problems, heck HDMI is BEAUTIFUL on this set.

My neighbor who had purchased a G series had a number of issues and has since returned his set for a 61Z786 and he is happy.

I was under the impression that both sets internally were the same except for the external cabinet color, so what gives?

Actually the primary issue with the Z-series is not something that will generally exhibit itself like a blown bulb or defective light engine. The ballast board just ignites at some random time and burns your house down. :) There was a warranty recall of the ballast boards, which is something you may want to check into with JVC.
The G and Z series are certainly not the same internally, a different feature set usually indicates completly different circuitry, and even the remote differs. The Z series remote is actually pretty good compared to the G. Most of the issues I have pointed out will likely not apply to the Z-series. It may therefore be important for folks to at least identify which set they purchased (the model of remote you have is a good indicator here) before they chastise me for my criticism of the Gx86. :rolleyes:

Actually the primary issue with the Z-series is not something that will generally exhibit itself like a blown bulb or defective light engine. The ballast board just ignites at some random time and burns your house down. :) There was a warranty recall of the ballast boards, which is something you may want to check into with JVC.
The G and Z series are certainly not the same internally, and even the remote differs. The Z series remote is actually pretty good compared to the G.

The ballast recall didn't affect all 'Z' series since when I called JVC they stated my serial number (and all Z786) is okay. But thanks for the info.

you guys know anything about wireless broadband? they just opened up a 3g EVDO tower 5 miles from my house and they say they are getting 400-700kbps downloads, i know this off topic but i would really love to ditch dial up.

It would be relatively expensive compared to your bandwidth dollar for either cable or DSL, and may also require a cell phone through the provider in order to for it to work (Verizon does offer a standalone PC card now in some areas). If you are in a rural area that is not served by DSL or cable I would also suggest looking into a satellite connect from DIRECWAY as an alternative, but the "mobility" provided by EVDO cellular access is certainly a big plus. A lot of metropolitan residents might be amazed to find that they are within shooting distance of a WiFi hotspot now, some of these may even offer free internet service.

It would be relatively expensive compared to your bandwidth dollar for either cable or DSL, and may also require a cell phone through the provider in order to for it to work (Verizon does offer a standalone PC card now in some areas). If you are in a rural area that is not served by DSL or cable I would also suggest looking into a satellite connect from DIRECWAY as an alternative, but the "mobility" provided by EVDO cellular access is certainly a big plus. A lot of metropolitan residents might be amazed to find that they are within shooting distance of a WiFi hotspot now, some of these may even offer free internet service.
the service provider here is offering a kyocera kpc650 pci card, for 249 outright and no contract, you go month to month, which is great for me. it will allow me to test/hack it out for 30 days with the option to return the card. in my area we have no chance of dsl or cable thanks to katrina, but being in the networking field i know wi-max and evdo type services will hook up the hillbillies with broadband. for 60 buck a month which is about what i pay bellsouth, i could ditch them go wireless with the evdo and keep my cell coverage. all we really use bellsouth for is dial up anyways and the occasional long distance call. they also have a router that accepts the pci card and allows you split the connection over however many pc's, in effect becoming a hot spot, without all the security issues of wi-fi. the reviews of verizons evdo stuff seem very favorable and my provider here is a verizon partner, my only true concern with this is the term of service verizon put on its customers. if my provider doesnt do that, i am probably going for it, 400-700 kbps is not bad after having dial-up for 15 years, at home at least. i was just wondering if any of you guys use it and what your opinions of it are, also, is there a better thread for this at AVS, i saw a slingbox thread with evdo somewhere it is helpful but nothing about using it in a stationary spot and as a primary ISP.

oh yeah, screw direcway. they get a check from me already :) but i am waiting them out to see how the mpeg4 stuff shakes out. i have been with them since 98 and another year for E* and D* to get competitve with cable again wont hurt.

DSLreports (http://www.dslreports.com/) is a pretty good site for any type of broadband or cellular internet access questions. Even find some good newsbyte HDTV related topics there from time to time. I certainly find IPTV to be an interesting subject. I had Direcway back when they were DirectPC, and I believe it still leaves much to be desired. It did fill a gap until cable access finally arrived in this area. My primary use of my Gx86 is web surfing via an HTPC. Would be real hard to go back to a tiny 4:3 monitor now.. The only things that prevent the JVC from becoming the "perfect" HTPC display to me is the vertical ghosting, a bit of digital noise, and the short lamp life. Of these, I think the vertical ghosting issue stands the best chance of being rectified by JVC. It could be something easily addressed, like a replacement of the edge enhancement circuitry, or something drastic like optic difusion, which would require a redesigned light engine. I do not believe the new 1080p sets exhibit the ghosting issues, so there may be some hope that it could be addressed in the Gx86.

Actually the primary issue with the Z-series is not something that will generally exhibit itself like a blown bulb or defective light engine. The ballast board just ignites at some random time and burns your house down. :) There was a warranty recall of the ballast boards, which is something you may want to check into with JVC.
The G and Z series are certainly not the same internally, a different feature set usually indicates completly different circuitry, and even the remote differs. The Z series remote is actually pretty good compared to the G. Most of the issues I have pointed out will likely not apply to the Z-series. It may therefore be important for folks to at least identify which set they purchased (the model of remote you have is a good indicator here) before they chastise me for my criticism of the Gx86. :rolleyes:


61z786 IS the same series as the Gx86, for whatever reason JVC kept the Z with the newer version 61" models. The sets with the wiring problem were the older z575, z585 sets.

61z786 IS the same series as the Gx86, for whatever reason JVC kept the Z with the newer version 61" models. The sets with the wiring problem were the older z575, z585 sets.

I'm glad you cleared that up. I looked tonight at an HD-52Z575 at our local Rex store, which is having a going-out-of-business sale. All the merchandise in the store is currently 25% off. While I was more impressed with the image I was able to adjust on this set, compared to any other projection set they had in the store of any type, I just have a bad feeling about buying a 2004 piece of hardware. Fears about the ballast and wiring only add to my apprehension.

Maybe I should have noted "older" Z series. :)
The remote that was included is a pretty good indication of rather it is the newer model with the 4-gen dist.

It would be relatively expensive compared to your bandwidth dollar for either cable or DSL, and may also require a cell phone through the provider in order to for it to work (Verizon does offer a standalone PC card now in some areas). If you are in a rural area that is not served by DSL or cable I would also suggest looking into a satellite connect from DIRECWAY as an alternative, but the "mobility" provided by EVDO cellular access is certainly a big plus. A lot of metropolitan residents might be amazed to find that they are within shooting distance of a WiFi hotspot now, some of these may even offer free internet service.

That's not at all the case with the wireless broadband service where I live. The cost is right around the same as cable or DSL, and the company is not even affiliated with a cell phone provider, so that isn't an issue. Furthermore, the cost is FAR below satellite internet service.

Tuning the detail down substantially does help hide the ghosting somewhat, and that is likely why many suggest turning the detail down all the way (or close) in order to improve the SD image. With an HD broadcast, tuning down the detail enough to even slightly reduce ghosting results in an image that is obviously too blury for it to still be called HD.

That's not at all what I understand. The "Sharpness" or "detail" adjustment SHOULD be turned all the way down (or pretty far down, anyway). That's what Avia and Video Essentials say with their tuneup disks. It was added to analog TVs to improve SD video as picture sizes got larger and larger. It really isn't appropriate at all for digital TVs, and should be turned all the way down, or at least very far down.

Read this: http://www.videoessentials.com/D_Theater_signals12.php

The RM-C15G is the previous years remote with direct input. The current remote is RM-C14G, which requires toggling for the inputs, and where SLEEP is directly beneath POWER.
Clarification: By direct input I am referring to Video-1,2,3,4 and Digital.
esteps

Thanks for this. My TV is a special Canadian model (52G556) without the ATSC tuner. Manufacturers often dump leftover material on smaller markets, which may explain why I have last year's remote.

I kind of like the direct input feature, since it's about the only part of the JVC remote I use. Almost all my controlling is done with the remote for the satellite tuner. Anyway, getting back to my original question, it doesn't look like the remote would explain why I can't access the hours used data. According to the service department of my store, it can only be accessed through the service menu, so maybe its something built into my set.

That's not at all the case with the wireless broadband service where I live. The cost is right around the same as cable or DSL, and the company is not even affiliated with a cell phone provider, so that isn't an issue. Furthermore, the cost is FAR below satellite internet service.
The standard cost for Verizon EVDO was around $70 a month until a couple months ago when they dropped the price to about $60. EVDO is a cellular communications protocol, so any EVDO offering is going to be from a cellular provider. Wireless broadband (aka WiFi) is a completely different animal. There is nothing out there that can beat the 4 to 6 mb/s of bandwidth for less than $50 a month that cable internet access typically offers. I pay comcast $45.95 per mo for 6 mb/s here. Perhaps FIOS will compete, but it is not available on a widespread basis yet. DirecWay is around $60 / mo, but there is a substantial equipment investment involved.
Bandwidth becomes a much more important factor as you realize the ever expanding video stream content that the internet provides. DVD quality movies are huge (~8 gb for DVD9), and streaming HD content will make the fastest broadband connections available now completely inadequate.

That's not at all what I understand. The "Sharpness" or "detail" adjustment SHOULD be turned all the way down (or pretty far down, anyway). That's what Avia and Video Essentials say with their tuneup disks. It was added to analog TVs to improve SD video as picture sizes got larger and larger. It really isn't appropriate at all for digital TVs, and should be turned all the way down, or at least very far down.

Read this: http://www.videoessentials.com/D_Theater_signals12.php

I doubt that wide generalizations like that will apply well at all. Far too much difference in the mfg's implementation of this and thus the relative effect it has on picture quality. A value of 00 on the Gx86 for instance, would imply that no extra edge enhancement is added, and a setting of -10 results in a picture that could not even compete with the cheapest RPLCD on the market for HD clarity. So, if you have detail turned "way down' on a Gx86 while watching HD, you are cheating yourself out of what could otherwise be a watchable display.

A value of 00 on the Gx86 for instance, would imply that no extra edge enhancement is added, and a setting of -10 results in a picture that could not even compete with the cheapest RPLCD on the market for HD clarity. So, if you have detail turned "way down' on a Gx86 while watching HD, you are cheating yourself out of what could otherwise be a watchable display.

I can confirm that positive "detail" values on this display are doing edge enhancement, while negative values are smoothing. Neither does good things for any of the sources I tried.

Another observation that I have made is that the ghosting issue seems to be compounded as resolution decreases: A standard definition broadcast seems to increase its effects, sometimes resulting in what appears as mutiple lines of ghosting rather than a single line. This would explain why the Gx86 has such a hard time displaying standard def well compared to other sets. Tuning the detail down substantially does help hide the ghosting somewhat, and that is likely why many suggest turning the detail down all the way (or close) in order to improve the SD image. With an HD broadcast, tuning down the detail enough to even slightly reduce ghosting results in an image that is obviously too blury for it to still be called HD.

When initially hearing turning down detail to improve pq I gave it a try only to confirm what you have stated. The pic , to me, just looked sort of blah.

I can confirm that positive "detail" values on this display are doing edge enhancement, while negative values are smoothing...

I tried running it several times from -30 to +30 on both SD and HD (CNN and Discovery HD, both off satellite) and couldn't see any effect at all, at least not enough to be sure of any difference. It's all wonderfully watchable.

I'll do some experimenting with the detail adjusment while watching an HD program.

I'll do some experimenting with the detail adjusment while watching an HD program.


I did some experimenting with the noise reduction and then turning the detail up to 15 and seemed to be even better that way. Try setting noise reduction down to low or heavy and then turn the detail way up with test patterns. You might even be able to go to a +30 on detail and just use more noise reduction.

Nice tip, Chip. thanx.

I doubt that wide generalizations like that will apply well at all. Far too much difference in the mfg's implementation of this and thus the relative effect it has on picture quality. A value of 00 on the Gx86 for instance, would imply that no extra edge enhancement is added, and a setting of -10 results in a picture that could not even compete with the cheapest RPLCD on the market for HD clarity. So, if you have detail turned "way down' on a Gx86 while watching HD, you are cheating yourself out of what could otherwise be a watchable display.

Mechanic - I am confused - if you go back to early in this thread, there were several posts by Kid Red, LMDA1, Navychop and others regarding calibration and proper settings. I know that they claimed that there were artificial edge enhancement artifacts at ANY settiing above negative 30 - therefore, they claimed that you should set the detail at -30. I am no expert, but believed their arguments - I have also run DVE via my DVD player, and like DeanBrew, thought that they also recommended turning this down.

Thanks

I base my observations on tests that I conduct, and then compare them to the notes others have made before I draw any conclusions. With that said, any owner here can come to their own conclusions simply by adjusting the detail themselves. :)
I and others have noted that a value of 00 for detail is equal to no edge enhancement applied, whereas values lower than this will simply blur the picture. IMO, a value of -30 would be unacceptable for "any" HD presentation. I agree that the digital noise clear feature can be used to clean up a very bad SD broadcast, and raising the detail up is most certainly a good idea when noise clear is applied. I suspect that the digital noise clears primary effect is a notched reduction of the detail value which is why increasing the detail when this feature is enabled is advantageous (basically negating its effect of reducing detail). The real question is if there are other benefits from the digital noise clear other than a simple notched reduction of detail. Although it has very little effect on dot crawl noise (the snow seen in flat patterns of certain colors) it does seem to reduce other artifacts (http://www.highdefinitionblog.com/?page_id=101) associated with the SD upconversion like mosquito noise and jaggies. Thus, increasing the detail when digital noise clear is active could remove artifacts while retaining nearly the same detail levels as when it is off.

I base my observations on tests that I conduct, and then compare them to the notes others have made before I draw any conclusions. With that said, any owner here can come to their own conclusions simply by adjusting the detail themselves. :)
I and others have noted that a value of 00 for detail is equal to no edge enhancement applied, whereas values lower than this will simply blur the picture. IMO, a value of -30 would be unacceptable for "any" HD presentation. I agree that the digital noise clear feature can be used to clean up a very bad SD broadcast, and raising the detail up is most certainly a good idea when noise clear is applied. I suspect that the digital noise clears primary effect is a notched reduction of the detail value which is why increasing the detail when this feature is enabled is advantageous (basically negating its effect of reducing detail). The real question is if there are other benefits from the digital noise clear other than a simple notched reduction of detail. Although it has very little effect on digital noise (the snow seen in flat patterns of certain colors) it does seem to reduce other artifacts (http://www.highdefinitionblog.com/?page_id=101) associated with the SD upconversion like mosquito noise and jaggies. Thus, increasing the detail when digital noise clear is active could remove artifacts while retaining nearly the same detail levels as when it is off.

The following quote from KidRed seems to indicate something different - just for everyone's information - I agree that we should all look for ourselves -

From Kid Red -

hey guys- I just had my JVC calibrated yesterday and wanted to share some of the results. As nice as I thought I had my set tweaked, I was still pretty far off, my greyscale was too blue and I was at 8400k (you want to be at 6500k) Man, I'm now seeing colors I've never seen before and my blacks are 90% absolute black (RGB all the same). Before, they were slightly green.

-Color Management ON (made colors more accurate, so always leave this on)
-Detail -30 (all the way down, it introduces edge enhancement at -29, -28. It will look soft at first, but get used to it at -30)
-HDMI input is about 10% sharper then component (I will be switching cable to DVI-HDMI)
-Theater Mode has too much red, cannot be tweaked out, don't use Theater Mode ever.
-Standard and Game are the same, Dynamic has too much blue. So stick to Standard fro everything-game for games
-Dynamic Gamma crushes blacks, just beefs up the lower end of the greyscale
-Smart Picture cuts off the top of the greyscale
-Color temp High intros too much blue
-My set is now at 6500k
-My greyscale in now damn good
-JVC runs hot in the green, can not be fixed


So, as good as I thought I was able to tweak, my set was off, no doubt. Colors are still not 100% accurate because JVC does not have each color allowed to be tweaked (so calibration was cheaper) you can only adjust the RGB for the greyscale, not the actual color inputs. JVCs run hot in the green, and the reds are leaning towards orange more then true red. Cyan, Magenta and Orange are all pretty close to accurate. We got a damn good greyscale (all colors equal in greyscale gives you neutral greys and better blacks, etc) DETAIL starting messing with the picture if not completely off, so, detail should be off at -30. HDMI was crisper, by about 5%-10% when compared to component, so use HDMI if you can.

After it was done and i was watching the tv, I saw sky on an HD program that looked as the sky outside. The exact kind of light sky blue slightly faded but withe enough blue pop. I saw ocean that was a blue I've never seen before on a TV. My blacks looked deeper because they were black, not greenish or bluish, etc (I have my set modded with a ND filter) Colors are now accurate, they weren't before. After watching for a bit, wow, colors are something that I thought the JVC owned, which it did, but not in the greyscale. Fix that greyscale and man colors change. I can't wait for football today.

And one other from Kid Red


chaz- I know +8 may look good, as I said it will look soft at first, but I can tell emphatically, the JVC introduces edge enhancement (which is bad) at -28. So, you being at +8 have MAJOR edge enhancement.

And, finally, one last quote:

I know some like the sharper image with detail high, that's fine. Just as long as you know what you are seeing isn't real. The detail you think you see is artificial edge enhancement created by the JVC. It's not detail that is really there in the source. By turning detail down, the picture is not soft, it is simply free of edge enhancement that the JVC introduces. There is no fake detail added to a clean source. So basically you are putting something that decreases the clean picture quality in order to achieve artificial detail that was never there to begin with.

To each his own, I just want to make sure it's explained well as it took me a while to get used to as well. I just want to see the 'film like' picture as it was intended to be viewed.

And, finally, one last quote:


Just remember that he does not use theater mode. Theater mode already is a very soft picture. If you look at something and then change from theater to standard or dynamic you will see that dynamic with a detail setting of 0 is way sharper than theater with a detail of +10

When I watch my movies I watch in theater mode with contrast at +15 briteness of -18 and detail of 0. Sometimes I turn detail up depending on the movie.

The best way to look at how the change of settings effects detail is to look at your onscreen guide and then change your theater to dynamic.

I would not consider something like facial hair to be an artificial edge enhancement. Next time you see a shot with enough clarity to distinguish fine facial hair on a woman's face, turn the detail down to -30 and see just what you will be missing.

I tried running it several times from -30 to +30 on both SD and HD (CNN and Discovery HD, both off satellite) and couldn't see any effect at all...

OK, having read the various contributions, I see the problem now. I had my video display set to theatre. At least on my set, that seems to lock the detail. As recommended, I changed it to standard, and now I do see some change when adjusting detail - not huge, but noticable (at no point is it "unwatchable"). After a few tries using NBC Olympic HD, which was a good screen because they had a lot of score boxes with borders, I settled on +1 as giving me the most pleasing effect.

I also realized I hadn't adjusted the hues since the set was new, so I did that and my wonderful picture is now even more wonderful. I can't imagine how it could be better getting a professional calibration, but maybe I'll try that too one day.

Using a test pattern I see edge enhancement all the way down to -20 or less on the detail setting. This is in standard mode. I've been running my detail quite low for some time now and I don't miss the false sharpness and white outlines at all, ymmv.

Using a test pattern I see edge enhancement all the way down to -20 or less on the detail setting. This is in standard mode. I've been running my detail quite low for some time now and I don't miss the false sharpness and white outlines at all, ymmv.
Ditto for me as well. I used the AVIA DVD to tweak my JVC and it was quite clear from the test pattern that was used to calibrate the detail setting that anything above -20 showed white outlines. Currently, using the AVIA DVD, I have Picture set at -5, 0 was too bright for me, Brightness is at +3, and Detail is at -20.

JK

Ditto for me as well. I used the AVIA DVD to tweak my JVC and it was quite clear from the test pattern that was used to calibrate the detail setting that anything above -20 showed white outlines. Currently, using the AVIA DVD, I have Picture set at -5, 0 was too bright for me, Brightness is at +3, and Detail is at -20.

JK


Just remember that the settings you get are for a dvd player. They are going to be sharper than a sattelite feed or cable feed.

I'm seeing ruffly the same thing with test patterns recorded from HDNet and INHD. Don't really care that much about SD as I watch as little as possible. :)

I'm seeing ruffly the same thing with test patterns recorded from HDNet and INHD. Don't really care that much about SD as I watch as little as possible. :)

What's the name of the show that includes those test patterns?

Just remember that the settings you get are for a dvd player. They are going to be sharper than a sattelite feed or cable feed.
I find that the settings translate fairly well from DVD to Broadcast. I use the Standard video setting for both my DVD input which is Input 2 and my broadcast input which is Digital (HDMI). I'm not concerned about standard definition broadcasts because their quality ranges from poor to fairly good, but HD broadcasts certainly benefit from the settings. The DVD input is 480p and HD is 1080i, so if a DVD looks good, HD should look pretty good as well.

Sort of an aside to the most recent discussion here, but I thought I'd throw a new wrinkle into the mix. After reading about the forthcoming G787 series, I've decided to wait until JVC's new HD-52G787 is released next month before I try to make a purchase decision.

I'm anxious first and foremost to see if they've licked the problems with the bulb life in the 787 series. Additionally, I'm anxious to see how the new dynamic, optical iris helps out with the black levels. Those who've seen it seem to be very impressed. The HD-52G787 is set to retail for $2,799. Wonder what that will translate to in street prices?

This isn't hurting me any for the time being... I wasn't going to have the cash to buy one until late April anyway. I'm anxious to see how JVC's new 720p product line shakes out.

What's the name of the show that includes those test patterns?


HDnet - HDNet Test Patterns - 6:00am Tuesday 2/14 EST
INHD - Tune Up - 7:00am Saturday 2/18 EST

Thank you. Will have to schedule the DVR to record them.

Sort of an aside to the most recent discussion here, but I thought I'd throw a new wrinkle into the mix. After reading about the forthcoming G787 series, I've decided to wait until JVC's new HD-52G787 is released next month before I try to make a purchase decision.

I'm anxious first and foremost to see if they've licked the problems with the bulb life in the 787 series. Additionally, I'm anxious to see how the new dynamic, optical iris helps out with the black levels. Those who've seen it seem to be very impressed. The HD-52G787 is set to retail for $2,799. Wonder what that will translate to in street prices?

This isn't hurting me any for the time being... I wasn't going to have the cash to buy one until late April anyway. I'm anxious to see how JVC's new 720p product line shakes out.

Thanks for letting me know about the new model... I've been following these sets since they were released and had to put off buying for different reasons, but I now have cash in hand.... Glad I stopped by and saw your post...

Thanks for letting me know about the new model... I've been following these sets since they were released and had to put off buying for different reasons, but I now have cash in hand.... Glad I stopped by and saw your post...

You're welcome! I only stumbled over it on Saturday. The new 720p line news got lost in the noise about the 1080p models, I guess.

BTW, here's a link to JVC's press release about the 2006 HD-ILA models, of all stripes. The 720p information is toward the end. The MSRP for all models is in a table at the end of the release.

JVC 2006 D-ILA Press Release (http://www.jvc.com/press/index.jsp?item=492&pageID=1)

I'm very curious to see how this $2,799 MSRP for the one I'm interested in (HD-52G787) will translate into a a street price. If my information is correct, that's $200 (Edit: I've just realized thta it's actually $1,000 less than the current MSRP for the 52G786!) less than the MSRP for the current HD-52G786! Are they just trying to present a more realistic street cost in the MSRP?

Think you meant this link:

http://www.jvc.com/press/index.jsp?item=492&pageID=2&CategoryID=3

Think you meant this link:

http://www.jvc.com/press/index.jsp?item=492&pageID=2&CategoryID=3

Whoops... I sure did. I went back and edited my link. Thanks for the catch chaz01!

as long we are on the subject of tweaking, is too much to ask for rundown of user and service menu settings that you folks are currently using? i know every set is different blah blah blah...,
but it does help folks out when they try to narrow down a base line. the r g b drive settings are helpful too. i will post mine later as i am at work and cant remember what they are.

HI all:

I had just about settled on a 52G786/866 as a replacement for my Samsung HLN-5065 (replacement under extended warranty - nobody can seem to fix it!) when I read the above link about the new units coming out in March (not too far away...).

Has anyone heard/seen/smelt anything about these new units... when will they REALLY be in stores... I don't mind waiting weeks, but I really don't want to wait months...

If nothing else the new units 2 HDMI inputs make this set interesting to me... will save a couple of hundred on an external HDMI switch.....

And a few questions about the current G series sets...

How is the reliability of theses sets......

Is the bulb issue more with the older Z series or is it a problem with the G series also...

If you had to buy a new set right now, would you buy another JVC G series set.

I have had a lot of issues with my Samsung and really don't want to start all over with a new set of issues with a JVC G series set.....

Just paranoid, I guess...

Any thought and observations would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks

Don

HI all:

I had just about settled on a 52G786/866 as a replacement for my Samsung HLN-5065 (replacement under extended warranty - nobody can seem to fix it!) when I read the above link about the new units coming out in March (not too far away...).

Has anyone heard/seen/smelt anything about these new units... when will they REALLY be in stores... I don't mind waiting weeks, but I really don't want to wait months... [quote]

Most of the news I've read on the internet about the new G787 line is nothing more than a regurgitation of JVC's own press release. The one exception is this CES report I found on CNet.com. The closing sentences read thusly:

These prices are a few hundred dollars less than those of the 2005 models, and all three sets will hit stores in July. The new 720p sets will be available as early as March and include the 52-inch HD-52G787 ($2,799), the 56-inch HD-56G787 ($3,199), and the HD-61G787 ($3,499).

[quote]If nothing else the new units 2 HDMI inputs make this set interesting to me... will save a couple of hundred on an external HDMI switch.....

I think this at least shows that they're responding to consumer preferences.

Any thought and observations would be greatly appreciated....
Don

Don, I really can't speak to the rest of your questions, as I'm not a JVC D-ILA owner. Heck, I don't own an HDTV period, but I have become very interested in the last couple of months. I think you can find bulb life horror stories on just about any rear projection set. However, if you get away from the technically oriented forums like this one, you'll find more positive reports. A lot of the gamers who report on the D-ILA series at XBox.com have glowing reports on their sets.

Forums like this tend to attract a segment of people who have a bone to pick, or are genuinely seeking help with technical problems. That's perfectly understandable and I agree the problems these sets have are way above average, but I'm not sure it's quite a widespread as we see represented here.

I can't ignore the fact when the D-ILA sets I've previewed are markedly superior in image quality and freedom from motion smearing to all the other projection sets to which I've compared them in their price range (this excludes the Sony SXRD, which would set me back an extra bill). I won't be buying until April or May anyway, so I'll have the luxury of being able to see how this new series pans out before I make a purchase decision. However, knowing what I now know about the G787... I'd still wait until the new models are released before I bought one. They've got to have improved the situation with the bulb life to some degree, and I like the idea of the dynamic, auto iris.

OnLookerDelay, I believe the auto iris is only included in the 1080p models.

Is the bulb issue more with the older Z series or is it a problem with the G series also...


If you had to buy a new set right now, would you buy another JVC G series set.

Don




seems to be on all series, the degree to which it is a problem, remains to be seen as all the current microdisplay rptv's have bulb issues.



i bought a "z" and would do so again

as long we are on the subject of tweaking, is too much to ask for rundown of user and service menu settings that you folks are currently using? i know every set is different blah blah blah...,
but it does help folks out when they try to narrow down a base line. the r g b drive settings are helpful too. i will post mine later as i am at work and cant remember what they are.

as long we are on the subject of tweaking, is too much to ask for rundown of user and service menu settings that you folks are currently using? i know every set is different blah blah blah...,
but it does help folks out when they try to narrow down a base line. the r g b drive settings are helpful too. i will post mine later as i am at work and cant remember what they are.


Right out of the box my rgb settings are as follows. R=101,G=128,B=105.

I wonder how close my settings are as far as getting the best gray scale and color settings possible. I have a 61z786 made in April 2005.

...If you had to buy a new set right now, would you buy another JVC G series set....

Yes, but with qualifiers, so let me explain. I am very happy with my set (bought last Oct, 1200 hours), have had no trouble, feel it is everything JVC promised and more, at least so far.

The "buts" don't relate to the G model, but to the new technology that's been announced since. I might decide to wait and see what Samsung, JVC and HP, among others, are able to produce from their planned introduction of LED units. I'd probably also want my next set to be 1080p, not because it is vastly superior to my present set using currently available inputs, but because it will undoubtedly do a better job with the future HD player/recorders and (hopefully) future 1080p broadcasts.

Or maybe not, because the price on my G model has already dropped $700.

OnLookerDelay, I believe the auto iris is only included in the 1080p models.

Yeah... I misread the press release. The bold header where the dynamic auto iris is touted for the new line looked be for all models, but when I got down and read the fine print in the "FN" section, they used the term "dynamic auto iris", whereas they use the term "optical iris" in the "G" series section. Not sure exactly what they mean by that.... got some more research to do, obviously.

Thanks for calling that to my attention. I would have been utterly humiliated to have a Best Buy clerk point this out to me in the store instead ;)

Yeah... I misread the press release. The bold header where the dynamic auto iris is touted for the new line looked be for all models, but when I got down and read the fine print in the "FN" section, they used the term "dynamic auto iris", whereas they use the term "optical iris" in the "G" series section. Not sure exactly what they mean by that.... got some more research to do, obviously.

Thanks for calling that to my attention. I would have been utterly humiliated to have a Best Buy clerk point this out to me in the store instead ;)

No doubt the optical iris on the new 720p series will be the same as what's on the current JVC 1080p sets where switching to TheaterPro Mode activates the iris, and in other modes it is fully open.

Oh, another "G" series owner here who wouldn't hesitate in buying another if I had it to do all over again. What I'm really looking forward to are the SED sets, but in the meantime, I'll keep rocking with the JVC.

-bruce

I have a 61z786 and I'm very satisfied with it. I don't regret buying this model at all.

I share davegow's angst that our sets, which are less than six months old, are already being supplanted by newer models and/or lower prices. We knew that would happen, of course, but knowing it and experiencing it are two different things. But like the latest issue of S&V magazine says, 1080p is better in theory than in reality, for two reasons: a) the almost complete lack of 1080p programming; and b) the fact that our eyes can't discern the increased resolution between 720p/1080i and 1080p unless you are sitting very close to the set. At normal viewing distances, 1080p offers little or no benefit.

If you had to buy a new set right now, would you buy another JVC G series set.

No. However, I would buy a JVC 1080p model.

...the latest issue of S&V magazine says, 1080p is better in theory than in reality.

That's a really interesting graph in this article. It shows that at my seating distance of 11 feet, my 52 inch screen is just nicely below the threshold of needing anything more than 720p. It also indicates that I could have had 56 inches, which I considered. Anything bigger, and I'd need 1080p to get optimum picture quality. Thanks for the reference.

...

Oh, another "G" series owner here who wouldn't hesitate in buying another if I had it to do all over again. What I'm really looking forward to are the SED sets, but in the meantime, I'll keep rocking with the JVC.

-bruce

Agree. I am on month 6 of original 36 month onwership plan. Have seen the other technologies and, yes, some are more appealling to me but that does not take away from my enjoyment of the g886. Would rather have more content than a new TV at this time. As the content improves over time, the need for a "better" set diminishes.

Lost everything when I changed from my standard mode to theater. Bulb is still bright as you can see it in the back vent of the tv. Now I have a faint 8 inch tall image on the screen in from the left to right in the middle of the set. Only one service center in Seattle to even do anything now. Have to wait til next friday to have somone just look at it. This is really pissing me off. I am very upset over the experience I have had with this set. UGGGGGGGGGG.

Calling JVC gets you the "call a local service repair center in your area". I am ticked.

HI all:


And a few questions about the current G series sets...

How is the reliability of theses sets......

Is the bulb issue more with the older Z series or is it a problem with the G series also...

If you had to buy a new set right now, would you buy another JVC G series set.

I have had a lot of issues with my Samsung and really don't want to start all over with a new set of issues with a JVC G series set.....

Just paranoid, I guess...

Any thought and observations would be greatly appreciated....

Thanks

Don

Thanks to everyone for their thoughts about the current G series sets... seems like almost everybody is quite happy with their decision.

The only question left.... snag one now or wait until the new models arrive in the next month or 2....

I am still negotiating with the warranty company as to how much money I shall get... and they say it will take 4 to six weeks to process the claim and cut the cheque.... so, maybe the new sets will be out by then....

Thank you everybody for the comments... they helped

Don

Just bought the panasonic AE900U projector. I just couldn't handle much longer with my jvc set. Never knowing if it is going to turn on the next day. I will most likely sell the set when it gets repaired. I wonder how much I can get for a 7 month old 61z786 and I have two spare bulbs to go with it. Also has a GE 4 year extended warranty as well.

I've done a little more research into what could be meant by JVC's mention of "optical iris" in their press release about the forthcoming G787 (720p) series. I'm not sure if the conclusion can be drawn that this is equivalent to what JVC dubbed Super Cinema Mode (3 Step Optical Iris System) in their current 1080p series. I would think that if the release of the new G787 series is truly set for March, the product details would be a little more specific at this point.

What do you guys think of this article's treatment of the consumer JVC model?

http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,1697,1927576,00.asp

What do you guys think of this article's treatment of the consumer JVC model?

http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,1697,1927576,00.asp
good article, i like extremetech stuff. a B is a good grade and seems on par with my experience with my Z.

What do you guys think of this article's treatment of the consumer JVC model?

http://www.extremetech.com/article2/0,1697,1927576,00.asp

That was as heavy a technical review of any display technology as I've seen... some of it was over my head, but it was mostly informative. The JVC consumer D-ILA was up against some much more expensive technologies... it was the only one a consumer can lay hands on at this point. Well, unless he wants to part with $45,000 for the JVC professional model!

BTW, I found it a bit odd that Sony chose not to participate in the shootout? I wouldn't think they would have anything to fear. Was it a snub of Extremetech.com? They seem like a highly professional and capable operation to me...

What do you guys think of this article's treatment of the consumer JVC model? Regarding the 'Grey Scale'; nothing new, well documented.
Regarding the 'Fine details artifacts'; just what I have said before viewing 3 or 4 of these. The top end is rolled off. Detail is lacking which is especially noticeable with closeups. This is documented in reviews also.

1. Only two out of the five sets are available.
2. One is prices well out of reach of most.
3. One set from a unknown company that may or may not be released.

Great that it is a detailed test. Not so great that the usefulness is severely limited! :(

What do you guys think of this article's treatment of the consumer JVC model?

Like Onlookerdelay, some of this is above my head. But I find it's interesting that even tho the reviewer flunked the JVC consumer unit on detail, he promptly adds "The picture quality from ordinary video was surprisingly good given the above discussion". In other words, there's a technical issue but it's not necessarily one that would be a noticable problem to the ordinary viewer. Being an ordinary viewer, not an AV engineer, that includes me.

I also notice that on some other issues, particularly motion smear, he rates our set very highly.

It's a very educational piece and one that I plan to print out and study. Thanks for the reference.

...I found it a bit odd that Sony chose not to participate in the shootout?..

I suspect they found out that they were up against a professional model costing ten times as much, smelt a rat and bailed. The "rat" is that this is not a consumer review, since only the JVC is a high-sales model. It's really a review of the basic technology. using these various examples. But Sony had a reason to bail, since most people, being used to consumer reviews, are going to read it as such, and their technology was bound to take second to the $45000 unit.

Having said that, I wonder why the author didn't just go out and buy a Sony for the test, like consumer magazines do normally.

Still I give thumbs up to JVC for participating, and I think they emerged pretty well.

Interesting article. While I can in no way dispute the findings, I can echo the above comments that the JVC 61z is about half the price of the next closest units and one-tenth the price of the JVC professional unit. It's also curious why Sony refused to cooperate - it certainly doesn't reflect well on them. I guess the tester could have bought a Sony at a store and then returned it for a refund, but such maneuvering shouldn't be necessary.

The testing and test results may be interesting, but not all that usefull for a TV buyer. A shootout among similar-priced sets of different technologies would have been more usefull.

Having said that, I wonder why the author didn't just go out and buy a Sony for the test, like consumer magazines do normally.

Still I give thumbs up to JVC for participating, and I think they emerged pretty well.

I think that Extremetech could have been resourceful enough to scrounge up an SXRD for the test. I'm not sure what they were asking of the manufacturers that supplied the sets, but it seems to be snub... possibly for the reason you stated - they didn't want to be compared to a professional model.

JVC came out looking pretty good on both scores, IMO. The flaws that the panel found with the JVC consumer model aren't going to weigh as heavily on Joe Six Pack.

BTW, I was in Best Buy this morning... dreaming of owning a large screen HDTV once again. They've rearranged their sets a bit, so that the JVC HD-56G786 (can't recall the model # Best Buy curiously assigns it), was right next to the Sony 55", LCD rear projection set. The Winter Olympics were on and in all honesty... I was stunned at how much sharper, and brighter the JVC set looked in comparison. I was standing 8' away and I could still see the screen door effect in the Sony, whereas the JVC was presenting a seamless, smear free image. I'm still waiting for the 2006 models to come out next month before I even think about buying, but when these 786 sets are working... they are tops in their class, IMO!

There's a RM-C15G remote on ebay right now. starting at 9.99
I bought one and it works for my 61Z786
Rob

I suspect they found out that they were up against a professional model costing ten times as much, smelt a rat and bailed. The "rat" is that this is not a consumer review, since only the JVC is a high-sales model. JVC supplied their consumer 720............
Gee, maybe Sony isn't the Holy Grail? ;)

Well, I just returned my HD-52G786 :-/. I just couldn't stand the PS2 on it.

That model has grey bars in 4:3 mode, which I found extremely distracting playing most games (particularly dark ones, like Fatal Frame). JVC told me there's no way to make them black.

It also seems like the set's 480->720p scaler introduces some strange visual effects. I noticed with sprite-based games, that whenever something moves there is an odd jitter within the sprite that last about quarter-half second after it stops moving. With polygon games, some edges have an odd crawl to them (more than just jaggy; it's a really noisy crawl along the line -- maybe some kind of anti-jaggy processing that isn't working out?).

I'm probably going to check out the 50" Sony SXRD and see if it avoids these problems (and I hear it has more tweakable settings).

Is there any general consensus about the quality of JVC's scaling compared to other models (the SXRD or others)? I haven't seen much discussion on the topic.

Well, I just returned my HD-52G786 :-/. I just couldn't stand the PS2 on it.

That model has grey bars in 4:3 mode, which I found extremely distracting playing most games (particularly dark ones, like Fatal Frame). JVC told me there's no way to make them black.

It also seems like the set's 480->720p scaler introduces some strange visual effects. I noticed with sprite-based games, that whenever something moves there is an odd jitter within the sprite that last about quarter-half second after it stops moving. With polygon games, some edges have an odd crawl to them (more than just jaggy; it's a really noisy crawl along the line -- maybe some kind of anti-jaggy processing that isn't working out?).



Just curious, are you playing games on it that have true 480p output capability? I own a PS2, and I should know this, but does the PS2 limit its movie playback to 480i? This *might* explain some fo the jitter and noise you're seeing. Just tossing this out for discussion... I don't know much more than that about it.

The gray bars in 4:3 mode would drive me bonkers. All the more reason for me to hold off until the 787 models are introduced next month and hopefully the borders will be black, or at least - blacker.

I'm probably going to check out the 50" Sony SXRD and see if it avoids these problems (and I hear it has more tweakable settings).

The 50" SXRD was also on my shopping list. The Dumbo Ears have physically removed it from consideration, however. It physically won't fit my application due to the 10" of extra overall width they add. I found the picture quality to be superior to the JVC D-ILA, when the green blob wasn't evident. I do see it from time to time though. I don't know that I found the PQ to be $1,200 better, which is what it would cost me more than the JVC HD-52G786.

Is there any general consensus about the quality of JVC's scaling compared to other models (the SXRD or others)? I haven't seen much discussion on the topic.

I'd like to hear some opinion on this also. I'm planning to use an XBox 360 with my HDTV, so I may not have as many scaling problems as you've encountered in games. I will be watching a lot of movies in 480p output mode though.

Just curious, are you playing games on it that have true 480p output capability? I own a PS2, and I should know this, but does the PS2 limit its movie playback to 480i? This *might* explain some fo the jitter and noise you're seeing. Just tossing this out for discussion... I don't know much more than that about it.

I tried a couple at 480p (Fatal Frame 3 and Suikoden Tactics). It didn't seem to make a very significant difference, although those two games in general looked fairly good. There's so few games that do progressive that it doesn't factor much into my decision making anyway.

I'm not sure what to blame the artifacts on. There is a lot of stuff that goes on deinterlacing and scaling, and they have to pick certain types of content to optimize for (artificial scenes like the ps2 being low on their priorities I'm sure).

For instance, I saw some blurb claiming the JVC scaler had "jaggy smoothing". I can imagine something like causing the odd crawling along lines that would've otherwise been normal jaggies. I'd definately have been happier if there was more information and options to play with.

Btw speaking of image processing, the "digital noise clear" option is terrible. All it does is remove detail and make things muddy. On high it blurs a lot, but doesn't do anything for serious jaggies.

The 50" SXRD was also on my shopping list. The Dumbo Ears have physically removed it from consideration, however. It physically won't fit my application due to the 10" of extra overall width they add.

It's funny how many people feel this way :). I also agree, the ears make it a tight fit for me. I'm willing to consider it more seriously after being so frustrated with the JVC. I think I heard Sony is coming out with a redesigned model, but I hate waiting for new-better technology ... it's a game that never ends :P

I found the picture quality to be superior to the JVC D-ILA, when the green blob wasn't evident. I do see it from time to time though. I don't know that I found the PQ to be $1,200 better, which is what it would cost me more than the JVC HD-52G786.

Well the SXRD does 1920x1080, which may eventually have some value. On the other hand, I don't hinge on that since 1080p is still so immature ...

It's really hard for me to compare PQ in the stores at all ... I'm worn out looking at tvs for now, but when I go in I may lug a ps2 with me and bother them to hook it up. Although "renting" the JVC from BestBuy for 3 weeks while I tried it was remarkably painless ...

I'd like to hear some opinion on this also. I'm planning to use an XBox 360 with my HDTV, so I may not have as many scaling problems as you've encountered in games. I will be watching a lot of movies in 480p output mode though.

The xbox360 looks very nice on the JVC. I enjoyed playing DOA4 in brilliant 52". Even Geometry Wars is jaw dropping :) Unfortunately, there's not many xb360 games I care about for a while so it was hard to justify when the PS2 looked so bad.

In terms of movies, I really noticed the poor black levels in the JVC. I'm not really a movie buff at all, but it seemed obvious to me in a number of scenes. I was watching them using the xb360; I'm not sure how good of a dvd player it is ... if you're a big movie fan, I assume you'd want one of the fancy scaling dvd players.

Well, I just returned my HD-52G786 :-/. I just couldn't stand the PS2 on it.

That model has grey bars in 4:3 mode, which I found extremely distracting playing most games (particularly dark ones, like Fatal Frame). JVC told me there's no way to make them black.


I've played several games with my PS2 on my HD56G786 and found it looked pretty good. God of War and Dynasty Warriors 5 look great for what they are. My PS2 is not a progressive model and I use a component cable at 16:9. Obviously games on PS2 don't look as good as on my 360 but they are much more than playable.

That model has grey bars in 4:3 mode The 1080s' don't have the grey side bars..............

I have a 70G886 and have been very happy with it. However, I need some help with possible adjustments. I have noticed while watching the olympics that when there is red or orange with a white background (which occurs a lot during the winter olympics) that there are noticable artifacts(?) around the edges of the red/orange. Also, the red and orange are too bright - they look like they are almost glowing. I watch everything in Theater Mode but have tried the other modes with the same issues. Any tips?

I have a 70G886 and have been very happy with it. However, I need some help with possible adjustments. I have noticed while watching the olympics that when there is red or orange with a white background (which occurs a lot during the winter olympics) that there are noticable artifacts(?) around the edges of the red/orange. Also, the red and orange are too bright - they look like they are almost glowing. I watch everything in Theater Mode but have tried the other modes with the same issues. Any tips?
search for my posts, there is an older post describing a noise reducing method in the service menu. this may help. if i find it i will post it.
found it post #1950
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=528179&page=65&pp=30&highlight=darthrsg

I've been using a DVI-HDMI cable to go from my HTPC's Radeon 9600 to my JVC HD-ILA (52G786). It's always been a little glitchy (I periodically have to unplug and replug things in to get them to resync), and after the recent driver update it is worse if anything... I'm thinking about going to a Gigabyte 6600 to see if that helps, can anyone share experiences with this TV and DVI-HDMI in?

Thanks...

From all I have read, the 6600/6600GT seem to be the card of choice for HTPCs'. For around $30 more the 6600GT is the better cartd thou it used more power.
There are different versions of the output configuration. Some have the ability to do component out and other don't.

Noise is an issue with me, you can easily get a fanless 6600, which is why I'm leaning that way. My TV is only 720p anyway, and I don't really PC game. Can anyone report success with a 6600 or other nvidia card with DVI-HDMI to a JVC HD-ILA?

I just recently hooked a PC up to my TV with an Evga 6600GT via DVI-HDMI adaptor to Gefen HDMI switch. I have some minor issues.

If I start the PC without the switch being set to display the image on the TV, I get nothing.

1280x720 shows quite a bit of overscan (e.g. only the slightest bit of the task bar is seen at the bottom of the screen. If I enable the underscan to fit screen setting I get a resolution of 1100ishX664 and it looks pretty good. If I start the PC without displaying the image, the card reverts to 1280x720 but the underscan settings remain. I have to set it to "normal" and back to "underscan" to fix it.

Otherwise it works pretty well. I just need to remember to set the switch before staring the PC. That's much harder for me than it might seem. :) The computer is a bit too loud (fan noise), but I don't think the fan on the video card is the biggest offender. I've got solutions for the other fans on the way.

If I start the PC without the switch being set to display the image on the TV, I get nothing. Normal. 1280x720 shows quite a bit of overscan Normal. If I enable the underscan to fit screen setting I get a resolution of 1100ishX664 and it looks pretty good. Is that using the nVidea drivers and have you tried PowerStrip?

search for my posts, there is an older post describing a noise reducing method in the service menu. this may help. if i find it i will post it.
found it post #1950
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=528179&page=65&pp=30&highlight=darthrsg

Thanks. I will give it a try.

Normal.

I figured as much on both counts.

Is that using the nVidea drivers and have you tried PowerStrip?

Yes and no. What can PowerStrip do for me?

search for my posts, there is an older post describing a noise reducing method in the service menu. this may help. if i find it i will post it.
found it post #1950
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=528179&page=65&pp=30&highlight=darthrsg
Darthrsg, I never was able to get this to fix the problem. I have the same one. A lot of noise in Reds, pinks and sometimes orange along with some vertical banding and blockiness. LMDA1 noticed it too, in his set.

What can PowerStrip do for me? Almost everything except slice bread. Go over to the HTPC forum or the PS site.

Almost everything except slice bread. Go over to the HTPC forum or the PS site.

It sounds remarkable. I've found the website http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/ps.shtm (not a very intuitive URL) and I'll review it and the HTPC forums when I get time. Thanks.

I am looking for a factory remote, can any one provide a few places whrer I could buy one thanks. I have a 61z886

Thanks
P

http://www.jvc.com

Ktulu_1; You can also try here, but there aren't many answers, just questions;
http://entechtaiwan.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=1

Thanks, videobruce.

I am looking for a factory remote, can any one provide a few places whrer I could buy one thanks. I have a 61z886

$24.00 for the RRC672 JVC ANDERIC Replacements version. And they have 265 of them in stock.

(Note about the RRC672!)

"JVC COMPATIBLE REMOTE, RRC672VC, RMC600 JVC, This is a Anderic remote that replaces , many of the RMC600 and some RMC700 series remotes. There are a few features missing on this one. Most of the feature are there. NO VCR or timer functions."

And if you want a genuine JVC Original Replacement RMC14G, They are $79.64 and are a special order only from them.

http://replacementremotes.com/store/productdetailp.cfm?productid=23306&CFID=606151&CFTOKEN=95204593


And for a genuine replacement from JVC, it is $26.47 for their RMC-236-1C, that replaces the RMC-14G


http://www.jvcservice.com/store/ProductDetail.asp?Part=RMC-236-1C

Saw a JVC 567BP6 at best buy and was very impressed as it was a step up in quality to the set next to it which was the 60" Sony XBRI. I suspect this was an older JVC product and went looking for newer versions, my dilemma is should I get the Best Buy
TV or go for a 56G886 from Vann's or try my luck with the 56FH96 which seems to have quality issues or wait for the 56G787 that is supposed? to come out in march or
wait to July for the56FN97?

Saw a JVC 567BP6 at best buy and was very impressed as it was a step up in quality to the set next to it which was the 60" Sony XBRI. I suspect this was an older JVC product and went looking for newer versions, my dilemma is should I get the Best Buy
TV or go for a 56G886 from Vann's or try my luck with the 56FH96 which seems to have quality issues or wait for the 56G787 that is supposed? to come out in march or
wait to July for the56FN97?

I believe that model at BB is the 56g786 which isthe same set as the 56g886 but with all black exterior.

I own an 886 model but would go with the fh or wait on the new model release.

I believe that model at BB is the 56g786 which isthe same set as the 56g886 but with all black exterior.

I own an 886 model but would go with the fh or wait on the new model release.

Why does Best Buy give products a different model number? I think it's bad business. I notice they do that with other products as well, Sharp televisions are another example. It makes it difficult to do comparisons... or maybe that's their motivation for changing them?

I think I just purchased one of the last JVC HD-52G786 models in my area. Best Buy was exchanging my old set which was a JVC 56" CRT HDTV (AV-56WP74) purchased in 2003. I needed 3 new picture tubes to get rid of blemishes in the display. I had 2 faint shadowy bars forming in the far right corner of the set and a white line that went straight up and down in the center of the television. Most of the time the blemishes were only visible in light backgrounds such as blue sky.

I really wanted to stay away from JVC due to the fact that I went through 2 (AV-56WP74's) in a matter of 2 years. But when I went to Best Buy to find an exchange, they had a JVC HD-52G786 for $1799! Then on top of that, it was a floor model that was just put on display about 2 days before. So they knocked off another $180!

Luckily I was able to stay away from the "Z" series. It seems that most of the complaints and faulty lamps were from that series of T.V.'s. The set I received has a manufactuer date of November 2005. The new set was delivered today and I have to say that I am in love with it!

I will be keeping my fingers crossed for a long time. The good thing is that I did end up purchasing a 4 year warranty through Best Buy. It really helped with my old JVC so I there was no way I was going to pass up on it this time.

Why does Best Buy give products a different model number? I think it's bad business. I notice they do that with other products as well, Sharp televisions are another example. It makes it difficult to do comparisons... or maybe that's their motivation for changing them?

Not sure why they do it, but it sure makes it tough to get price matching.

I really wanted to stay away from JVC due to the fact that I went through 2 (AV-56WP74's) in a matter of 2 years. But when I went to Best Buy to find an exchange, they had a JVC HD-52G786 for $1799! Then on top of that, it was a floor model that was just put on display about 2 days before. So they knocked off another $180!

You got a hella deal with that! I'd have had a hard time laying off that deal! Probably a good move going with the 4 year BB warranty in this case.

Not sure why they do it, but it sure makes it tough to get price matching.

Hmmmmm.... that might be the real reason they do it! Good thinking!!

Raven52; Hope you like the set and welcome to the forums. :)

Not sure why they do it, but it sure makes it tough to get price matching.

BINGO! That is precisely why they do it.

BINGO! That is precisely why they do it.

How does that benefit them though? Lets say I bought a "BP" series JVC that has the model number 56g786 on the back of the set. One week later, the model is selling for $200 less at the competitor. Will they actually say, "sorry, you bought the "BP" model", even though the model is stamped on the set?

I don't get it.

Of course, if all retailers use their own model numbers we could never find a match because noone else would be advertising the Tv purchased.

Confused.

Read the fine print of their price match policy, it usually says that they will only price match on products with the exact same product/model number. And they will go by the number that is printed on the box it comes in, and not what may be printed on the back of the set. So if they have anything in their products that they sell that makes a number exclusive to them, they do not have to worry about anyone else selling it for less, because it's their own exclusive product/model number. So no one else will be selling them with that kind of number, let alone selling it for a lower price. All it takes is 1 different letter, from the normal JVC numbering system. Or even just 1 letter or number added or subtracted to the normal JVC numbering somewhere for them to do that. And with as many TV sets that a company like BB or CC orders from JVC in one year, you can believe that JVC is more than happy to make a bunch of them that have product/model number system that are specific just for the BB or CC chain of stores.

Read the fine print of their price match policy, it usually says that they will only price match on products with the exact same product/model number. And they will go by the number that is printed on the box it comes in, and not what may be printed on the back of the set. So if they have anything in their products that they sell that makes a number exclusive to them, they do not have to worry about anyone else selling it for less, because it's their own exclusive product/model number. So no one else will be selling them with that kind of number, let alone selling it for a lower price. All it takes is 1 different letter, from the normal JVC numbering system. Or even just 1 letter or number added or subtracted to the normal JVC numbering somewhere for them to do that. And with as many TV sets that a company like BB or CC orders from JVC in one year, you can believe that JVC is more than happy to make a bunch of them that have product/model number system that are specific just for the BB or CC chain of stores.


So thats why they have a BB only model! I even checked for information on that and only came up with about 10 searches on google and all of them led me straight back to BB's website. Oh well, I guess they will always be finding new ways to find loopholes!

But to tell you the truth, it is up to the manager of the store to make the final decision. 2 years ago when I purchased my first T.V., CC was offering a free HTS in a box with the purchase of a 55" Hitachi T.V. I went to BB and showed them the circular and they gave me the same HTS in a box with my purchase of their JVC 56" set. So specifics can be manipulated sometimes.

Yeah it still comes down to how bad they want to make a sale. But if the product numbers are not a exact match, they usually don't have to honor a price match. Because in almost all cases, that is one of the rules/exclusions that they included in the policy. Along with the more standard ones for like liquidation type sales, store closings/going out of business sales, buying clubs etc, and sometimes even MIR rebates that are store specific.

So they're basically doing away with price matching. Add that to my list of BB cons.

So they're basically doing away with price matching. Add that to my list of BB cons.

Or giving the manager a legal "out" if he or she chooses not price match.

I was going to give up on BB completely but they sort of had me by the balls with the warranty. I put up with so much garbage over the last 2 years that I cringed every time I saw that yellow tag!

But I have to say that dealing with the Magnolia center in Best Buy was a very calming experience. It is like the Magnolia center has no affiliation with the other BB employees! The salesman who helped me actually did everything he could to get me what I wanted. He made about 3 or 4 phone calls and completed our entire transaction in the one hour that I had for my lunch break! He wasn't even making any money off of my sale due to the fact that it was an exchange but he still helped me just the same as if I were purchasing a $6000 1080p set!

Dealing with the Magnolia center drew me back to the big yellow tag! And to think that I almost got away! The big ones always find a way to draw you back in! DAMN!

What is the difference between the Z and G models and 786 vs 886? Are they all 2005 models. I am very interested in purchasing one of these sets but do not want to buy the older versions of the JVC. Thanks. :confused:

What is the difference between the Z and G models and 786 vs 886? Are they all 2005 models. I am very interested in purchasing one of these sets but do not want to buy the older versions of the JVC. Thanks. :confused:

G models are the latest 720p's, soon to be superseded by another model.

I think the Z's originated in 2004 (someone chime in please).

786 and 886 have different colored exteriors-same internals.

G models are the latest 720p's, soon to be superseded by another model.

I think the Z's originated in 2004 (someone chime in please).

786 and 886 have different colored exteriors-same internals.

Yes, you are correct. To the original poster of this question. Unless you are purchasing an extended warranty, stay away from the "Z" models! They had a huge problem with defective lamps and many of the early builds were recalled for defective ballast problems. There were also quite a few "Z" models that had to have their light engines replaced.

At least with the "G" models, JVC knew of many of the issues that the "Z" models had. We can only hope they corrected most of them. I have a November 2005 build 52" G model. I have only had it for two days so I am keeping my fingers crossed! But I did purchase the 4 year extended warranty from Best Buy. So at least my ass is covered for a while.

What is the difference between the Z and G models and 786 vs 886? Are they all 2005 models. I am very interested in purchasing one of these sets but do not want to buy the older versions of the JVC. Thanks. :confused:


No, you guys have it a little wrong. The 52G, 56G and 61Z are ALL 2005 models, have the built-in HD tuner, cablecard, and are the same except for the size. The 786 after the above indicates a black cabinet and 886 indicates a silver cabinet.

The 2004 models (52z575, 52z585 and 61z575, 61z585) had 575 or 585 (silver and black) as the last digits and don't have built-in HD tuners or the cablecard slot. It's not the 'Z' that you should worry about, it's the 575 or 585.

Why does Best Buy give products a different model number?

The Best Buy part number is for a package... TV + stand. It's a Best Buy exclusive that comes directly from JVC. While it may be packaged that way to avoid price matching, the part number actually designates something different than the TV alone.

The Best Buy part number is for a package... TV + stand. It's a Best Buy exclusive that comes directly from JVC. While it may be packaged that way to avoid price matching, the part number actually designates something different than the TV alone.

Does that apply to all cases? One that I've been looking for as a TV for our den is this one: Best Buy Sharp 32" "32SC260 (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7631271&productCategoryId=cat03002&type=product&cmp=++&id=1130986501521). I can find no comparable model in Sharp's product line. This one purports to be a Digital TV, but not a flat screen. Even Sharp's own website has nothing that looks like it. Is this an older set that Best Buy is closing out perhaps?

At first I thought it was the same as the 32C240, which HH Gregg had on sale last week for $249.95!? (it's now back up to $299.95). See this link for info: Sharp 32C240 at HH Gregg (http://www.hhgregg.com/ProductDetail.asp?SID=20DC7396A5B841A3B3B4C680E3EE7D6C&ProductID=10073) - however, it doesn't purport to have a digital tuner, or side mounted component/composite/S-Video connections.... really strange :confused:

No, you guys have it a little wrong. The 52G, 56G and 61Z are ALL 2005 models, have the built-in HD tuner, cablecard, and are the same except for the size. The 786 after the above indicates a black cabinet and 886 indicates a silver cabinet.

The 2004 models (52z575, 52z585 and 61z575, 61z585) had 575 or 585 (silver and black) as the last digits and don't have built-in HD tuners or the cablecard slot. It's not the 'Z' that you should worry about, it's the 575 or 585.



Thanks. I really like the picture on this set. Really looking forward to purchasing the 56" model.

I was just combing over my D-ILA this evening and I noticed that I had a few "dead" pixels on the screen. They are just black dots with some darker than others. Now I have heard many sides to the story for dead pixels.

Has anyone here ever made an issue out of dead pixels with either JVC or the company which you may have purchased an extended warranty from? If so, did they do anything about it?

In all honesty, I can't even see them when I am watching the set from my couch. Only when I get within about 2 feet from the set do I ever notice them and its only because I know where to look. And relistically there is only one that I consider to be bad.

Should I just wait it out for a while considering I have a 4 year warranty, and the set was just delivered to my house this past Saturday?

I tried finding information about dead pixels in the manual but there was no info stated.

Does that apply to all cases?

Don't know. I can only comment on the JVC D-ILAs as I bought part number HD567BP6 from Best Buy. Which is a HD56G786 with the JVC stand. Stand and TV came packaged together in one box.

I just purchased the game "Black" for the PS2. I can't wait to see what it can do on my HD-ILA and surround system! They say this is the game that you want to use to show off your Home Theatre equipment.