I just purchased the game "Black" for the PS2. I can't wait to see what it can do on my HD-ILA and surround system! They say this is the game that you want to use to show off your Home Theatre equipment.

Let us know. Do you have an xbox 360 or are you planning on buying a ps3? Some of the x360 720p game demo loops in 5.1(and the games themeselves) give a good "wow"ing factor for the home theatre.

Can someone tell me if the quality of analog reception on my HD61Z886 will be worse than on a regular television. I had a 10 year old 31" TV that had a much better picture than this HDTV. The salesman said that due to the size and signal the picture will not be as good as my old TV until I get a digital signal. Colors just don't look right on this TV. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Can someone tell me if the quality of analog reception on my HD61Z886 will be worse than on a regular television. I had a 10 year old 31" TV that had a much better picture than this HDTV. The salesman said that due to the size and signal the picture will not be as good as my old TV until I get a digital signal. Colors just don't look right on this TV. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Welcome.

I would say that the salesman is being straight with you. Analog SD will look better on an analog SD set.

Let us know. Do you have an xbox 360 or are you planning on buying a ps3? Some of the x360 720p game demo loops in 5.1(and the games themeselves) give a good "wow"ing factor for the home theatre.


"Black" looks and sounds incredible. It's amazing that they can produce a game of this caliber for the PS2 and XBox. It rivals most of the games for the 360 at the moment.

I don't plan on purchasing a 360 any time soon or possibly ever. I am saving to get screwed over by Sony with their PS3. I know that I should stay away from any game system for at least the 1st year but I'll never learn my lesson! :rolleyes:

I probably would purchase a 360 if I didn't have to spend all of the money on a bundle. I just want the 360, 1 controller, and Call of Duty 2. I can't get that right now.

Anyway, my DILA looks great on progressive scan games! I love this set (even with the 3 dead pixels! :p )

Welcome.

I would say that the salesman is being straight with you. Analog SD will look better on an analog SD set.

I actually think it has more to do with size than technology. You're blowing up the same picture from 31" to 61", which is actually much more than doubling the screen area. If you can get far enough away from your new TV so that the screen appears the same size as your old 31", you'll see what I mean.

I can testify that I am very pleased with most SD channels I get over cable. There are a few channels that don't look good at all, but most look pretty good. Polmik, I'd say the first thing to do is lower the "details" setting down to about -20. Then play around with the noise reduction and the other video settings and see if that helps. As far as the color, you can also adjust the color and tint settings, but I doubt you have to go more than a few notches up or down.

In the end, it may just be bad signal strength. Are you using an antenna or cable or satellite? How far back are you sitting from the screen?

I would say that the salesman is being straight with you. Analog SD will look better on an analog SD set.

This is definitely not my experience, going from a 36 inch Trinitron (top of the line when I bought it in 2000) to a 52 inch D-ILA. The image processing software in the newer set produces a much superior image even on the larger screen. When one factors in the larger screen, the difference is very impressive.

That's over satellite, but I've also tried VHS and OTA, and I would say the same applies there.

Now mind you I'm not saying that there are no combinations of analog and digital that wouldn't produce your result, although I'm frankly sceptical.

Can someone tell me if the quality of analog reception on my HD61Z886 will be worse than on a regular television. I had a 10 year old 31" TV that had a much better picture than this HDTV. The salesman said that due to the size and signal the picture will not be as good as my old TV until I get a digital signal. Colors just don't look right on this TV. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
let the set "break in", SD got better after a week or two on mine and others sets.

The only "break in" you will get with a set like this, is the bulb itself settling in some.
Otherwise there is nothing at all about it, that can "break in" in any way to get better.

The only "break in" you will get with a set like this, is the bulb itself settling in some.
Otherwise there is nothing at all about it, that can "break in" in any way to get better.
okay dude, whatever you say, but when new, the SD is jarring on these d-ila sets.
i will not dispute the analog on analog sets vs analog on digital sets, but if his/her set is new, i bet a dollar that the SD "improves" in a week or so of use. the white levels are hard to nail down at first until the bulb "breaks in".

This is definitely not my experience, going from a 36 inch Trinitron (top of the line when I bought it in 2000) to a 52 inch D-ILA. The image processing software in the newer set produces a much superior image even on the larger screen. When one factors in the larger screen, the difference is very impressive.

That's over satellite, but I've also tried VHS and OTA, and I would say the same applies there.

Now mind you I'm not saying that there are no combinations of analog and digital that wouldn't produce your result, although I'm frankly sceptical.

You're the first person I've heard say that the dila has better SD than a direct view trinitron. What would the reactions be out here if someone posted that a BB sales rep said this? Anyway, not trying to flame but I just find it hard to imagine, though I do believe that's your experience.

Thanks to all for the advice. The newest TV I had was 10 years old so I'm definitely behind on the TV technology. I will give the bulb some time to break in and see how it looks. After all I have at least 30 days before they won't take it back.

You're the first person I've heard say that the dila has better SD than a direct view trinitron

I've certainly seen other people say similar things, but to be fair I should qualify what I said. Note I was comparing with my 6-year old Trinitron, not the latest "Hi-scan" Trinitron technology. So my statement is really a comparison of todays digital displays with the analog sets most people would have in their livingrooms. (But is a Sony "Hi-scan" an analog set?)

And I agree happily we can discuss this without flames. Cheers.

okay dude, whatever you say, but when new, the SD is jarring on these d-ila sets.
i will not dispute the analog on analog sets vs analog on digital sets, but if his/her set is new, i bet a dollar that the SD "improves" in a week or so of use. the white levels are hard to nail down at first until the bulb "breaks in".

I haven't seen any SD media over the D-ILA's. The only place I've been that sells them is Best Buy, and they only show the canned HD demos they have. I can't convince them to show me anything in SD on it. I'm really curious to see what it looks like for myself.

i use D* for my source( i know about HD-Lite), their SD is suspect as well, you cant ,imho, get razor sharp SD on a JVC you can get something that is extremely watchable though. if you are really close to the display forget it. i am 10 feet and it is acceptable to me. if it seemed that i was flaming i apologize :( , i just quit smoking on monday and the gum aint calming my urges to lash out. but on my set at least SD did improve after a week or so as did color balance, my settings with avia and dve are dramatically different on week 1 and week 3. most of my channels seem to have a vhs look to them and a few have a near dvd look them.

I've certainly seen other people say similar things, but to be fair I should qualify what I said. Note I was comparing with my 6-year old Trinitron, not the latest "Hi-scan" Trinitron technology. So my statement is really a comparison of todays digital displays with the analog sets most people would have in their livingrooms. (But is a Sony "Hi-scan" an analog set?)

And I agree happily we can discuss this without flames. Cheers.

Not sure whether or not that's an SD set, so can't say. All in all, I'm happy with the d-ila, though you will (have) hear(d) me moan about video noise presence. Much of that is due to my cable configuration I'm sure. Anyway, thanks for the reply. I'm a bit gun shy on questioning posts out here. Appreciate not being bashed.

Yes, stay away from the Z585 series and the like. Though I'm not sure your dates are correct. My TV was built in Feb. 2005 and is model HD-52Z585. I bought it in July and in the time I've owned it I've already blew a bulb (roughly 450 hours) and am waiting on a light engine replacement due to my Red completely crapping out and the G/B not lining up on the screen at all. Couldn't be more displeased with this $2500 paper weight/coat rack. Hopefully I have more problems and JVC realizes that I have a Lemon and they replace it for me. Waiting a month for a light engine is not my idea of good customer service.

bullet1

I feel your pain....lets say I felt your pain... I got fed up and swapped my JVC 52G886 for a Sony 55A20 and have not looked back...........

Went to a B&M today and picked up the Toshiba 56mx195. Gotta be honest, I haven't plunked down this much money and had such a sense of apathy since I bought our mini-van. However, I took Mechanic's advice and bought via a B&M store just in case I absolutely hate the TV and need to exchange it for my true love - JVC's DiLA. But, until JVC's QC improves I'm thinking I'm gonna be stuck with this TV for a while. Surprisingly though, I didn't get taken to the cleaners ($$$) as badly as I initally feared.

In case you're wondering, the only reason I pulled the trigger now instead of waiting is simply due to the fact that the holidays are approaching and we're going to have a house full of people for over a month. My bride has been nudging me to make a decision for weeks so that we can get everything in place (pretty lucky to have a Bride like mine, huh!). Anyway, the set arrives on Thursday. If anyone's interested, I'll share my thoughts as a DILA lover who felt compelled to turn to the Dark Side.I'm struggling with this a bit.We see a lot of stories like yours,and that is truly terrible.But with that said ,you're stating in one post that your having a house full of people in for a month,and in one of your last posts you state you've only put 150 hours on your set in nearly 5 months.Given that you state it was hard on you to afford this set,I would suggest you see if you can return it.Probably to long for the return policy of the place where you bought it,but worth a try.If you are as compelling to them as you are in this forum, I.m sure they will.Good luck.

Can someone tell me if the quality of analog reception on my HD61Z886 will be worse than on a regular television. I had a 10 year old 31" TV that had a much better picture than this HDTV. The salesman said that due to the size and signal the picture will not be as good as my old TV until I get a digital signal. Colors just don't look right on this TV. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

SD on the Dila sets to me looks worse than my 10 year old Sony. I got the set for HD, I have Comcast with the HD package and running with a cable card to save $5/month. Just got CBS in HD added and had to reprogram the channels and noticed that the SD channels are all now digital SD and seem to look a "little"
better.

Have owned it for about 8 months and on the first bulb, co-worker has 71" bought on the same day and his bulb went a month ago, he had 3000 hours on it. I probably have about 1000 to 1500 hours on mine.

Sorry about the above post,wrong thread.

I am having a problem trying to get the 2160 to be seen by the iLink on the TV. Does anyone have some info on how to get these two to work??? I was told the only difference between 6-pin and 4-pin firewire is that 4-pin connectors are unpowered (being generally used for self-powered devices like camcorders). Since the DVR is a bus-powered device, it requires the power provided by a 6-pin connection to the host device to operate. So, you don't just need a 6-pin to 4-pin adapter, but a powered adapter, both your TV and the PVR are DTCP (digital transmission content protection) ccompliant, so providing power to the PVR's firewire bus should fix the problem. That I should buy FirePod Universal FireWire, AC/DC adapter and USB/FireWire 12VDC charger kit it would do the trick. Sounds right but will there be a charge set to the iLink board???

Thanks

My first post the Tv is a JVC and the DVR is RCA DVR 2160 Sorry

Thanks

I think the iLink only works with JVC own HD Vcr's. And not with other brands of equipment that has iLink.

I have a Mitsubishi 1100U HD VCR connected and it works fine. I have tried even disconnecting the Mits no luck and I have tried daisy chaining the two the Mits works but the DVR fails.

I have a Mitsubishi 1100U HD VCR connected and it works fine. I have tried even disconnecting the Mits no luck and I have tried daisy chaining the two the Mits works but the DVR fails.

Then it is entirely possible that it only works with iLink VCRs. It may also be possible, that the iLink port on a DVR is maybe only for use as a input from a camcorder.

johnla Do you think by getting the power adapter will work??? Sorry but I am a novice at this stuff and I don't want to mess up a $2300.00 TV that I really like...

johnla Do you think by getting the power adapter will work???
I have no idea if it will work or not. It's also possible that the RCA 2160 maybe will not work with a JVC TV.
So you may need to call both RCA and JVC tech support to find out for sure. But if the 2160 needs a external power source to power up when using a 4 pin iLink cable, it's certainly not going to work without it having power supplied to it in some way.

I have no idea if it will work or not. It's also possible that the RCA 2160 maybe will not work with a JVC TV.
So you may need to call both RCA and JVC tech support to find out for sure. But if the 2160 needs a external power source to power up when using a 4 pin iLink cable, it's certainly not going to work without it having power supplied to it in some way.

The RCA 2160 DVR did not work with my JVC HD-ILA 61Z786 via firewire. It only recognizes JVC DVHS VCR's via firewire.

I'm considering the purchase of a JVC 56inch RPTV. I've read that the JVC's have been having problems. Have most of the problems been resolved?

If you have purchased a new JVC RP TV in the last 4 or 5 months, please let me know if they are still having problems.

tx :)

I'm considering the purchase of a JVC 56inch RPTV. I've read that the JVC's have been having problems. Have most of the problems been resolved?

If you have purchased a new JVC RP TV in the last 4 or 5 months, please let me know if they are still having problems.

tx :)

If I can hold off buying the Vizio P42HDTV during the March Madness special pricing at 'a national warehouse chain', I'll be looking hard at the new 2006 JVC 720p sets (the G787 series). I just have too many questions about the reliability of the 786 series based on my research. The optical iris in the 787 series alone is worth waiting for, IMO. They're *supposed* to be out in March, but I haven't seen a hint of their arrival anywhere.

Well, I purchased my 56G last August and have none of the problems I have been reading about here (HDMI reset and burned-out lamps). I have 1150 hours on my lamp.
esteps

I'm considering the purchase of a JVC 56inch RPTV. I've read that the JVC's have been having problems. Have most of the problems been resolved?

If you have purchased a new JVC RP TV in the last 4 or 5 months, please let me know if they are still having problems.

tx :)

My experiance in much as esteps'. Delivered in early September. Just over a thousand hours. No problems. In a word my TV is... tasty.

Having said that, a 1080p or an iris'ed 720p are going to be even better.

I'm considering the purchase of a JVC 56inch RPTV. I've read that the JVC's have been having problems. Have most of the problems been resolved?
If you have purchased a new JVC RP TV in the last 4 or 5 months, please let me know if they are still having problems.


I bought my G-series D-ILA last October, approaching 2000 hours, absolutely no problems at all. Super picture on HD satellite, surprisingly good picture on SD satellite, even decent on VHS and OTA. It performs considerably better at home after adjustment and a couple of hundred hours break-in than I saw in stores.

My only regret is that last year's set had only one HDMI, whereas the upcoming ones have two. But that's life in the wonderful world of HDTV.

I've had my 61Z786 since September 05 and have had zero problems. I don't know how many hours are on my bulb.

I still think I made the right choice compared to all the other TVs I looked at last fall.

Well there you go tedescm, 4 positive D-ILA owner opinions. Thanks for sharing your opinions guys... good stuff! It's been said before, but I think it bears repeating... these technical forums often attract people who are having problems with their sets. They're looking for answers, but some of them are also here to vent, and grind their axe a bit. I think that those who are not having problems are enjoying their HDTV's, and have no reason to come here. My impression of the D-ILA's has probably been skewed by that tilt, but there's something in my gut that tells me I'm not ready to take the gamble on the 2005 models. We're so close (ostensibly) to the release of the 2006 720p's, that there's no way I can do anything but wait at this point.

Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but my bulb dimmed last weekend, one day shy of 6 months. I had almost 1600 hours on it. Just to clarify, I am not a person who found this board because I'm pissed about my bulb burning out, but rather a long time lurker and infrequent poster. I posted nothing but praises about the TV and continue to love the TV. Does the bulb burning out after 1600 hours worry me, I'm not sure yet. But like Onlooker said, many people who have bad experiences tend to post in these forums. After my experience, maybe I'm naieve(sp), but I believe that I was one of the unfortunate ones and I think that this bulb will be ok. BTW, I called a local repair shop and told them my prediciment. He told me to bring the bulb in and he would exchange it for me. Total downtime(for my wife, I was the one who went to the shop), 1.5 hours.

If you are lucky the next one will blow 2 days before one year - right before the warranty period expires. BTW my first bulb lasted over 3000 hours.

My 56G886 is wokring fine. No bulb problem yet :)

But I have a HDMI problem. My Panasonic DVD S97 is connected to the 56G886 via a HDMI cable ( just bought a premium cable, same old same old) and every so often there is a synchronization problem.

Reset through the menu fixed it until the next time. We only use the DVD very occasionally, about once in every couple weeks, since it's March Madness.

If anyone has any clue how to fix the HDMI permanently i.e. via a software upgrade I would appreciate your posting. JVC service does not seem to understand or know about this problem.

;)

Like Duff Man, I'm a long time lurker of this thread. The bulb went in my '786 at just over 1K hours. What winds me up is the time it takes to get a replacement. Nobody in town stocks one and they all seem to come from California. Minimum 5 day ship time. Now I have to struggle with my conscience as I reported the failure to my local dealer AND to JVC direct and to my surprise, they BOTH sent replacements! Seems I now have a spare bulb. Also, anyone on the board have any audio board problems? My first set (purchased 03/05) lasted until August and went white noise. The local "JVC Authorized" repair shop botched the repair so bad I had to have the set replaced (kudos to HH Gregg for stepping up and replacing it after a LOT of complaining). The replacement lasted for 3 months until its audio board died. This time the repair went OK besides taking about 2 weeks.

Hey guys... I have had my 56"G886 for about 4 days now and have learned how to read bulb hours. Well kind of. Can someone tell me the answer to my numbers. Thanks.

D070= 000
D071= 011

000 x 256 = 0
011 + 0 = 11 hrs.
esteps


Hey guys... I have had my 56"G886 for about 4 days now and have learned how to read bulb hours. Well kind of. Can someone tell me the answer to my numbers. Thanks.

D070= 000
D071= 011

I had a board on my 56G replaced, almost immediately after I purchased it, due to speaker noise. The noise was constant and was not affected by volume. The shop botched the first repair, had to reorder a second board, and finally got it right. The second board has lasted 6 months so far.
esteps

Like Duff Man, I'm a long time lurker of this thread. The bulb went in my '786 at just over 1K hours. What winds me up is the time it takes to get a replacement. Nobody in town stocks one and they all seem to come from California. Minimum 5 day ship time. Now I have to struggle with my conscience as I reported the failure to my local dealer AND to JVC direct and to my surprise, they BOTH sent replacements! Seems I now have a spare bulb. Also, anyone on the board have any audio board problems? My first set (purchased 03/05) lasted until August and went white noise. The local "JVC Authorized" repair shop botched the repair so bad I had to have the set replaced (kudos to HH Gregg for stepping up and replacing it after a LOT of complaining). The replacement lasted for 3 months until its audio board died. This time the repair went OK besides taking about 2 weeks.

000 x 256 = 0
011 + 0 = 11 hrs.
esteps

See thats what I thought too, but I put that on it the first day I got it. So why is it reading so low. Thanks for the reply.

See thats what I thought too, but I put that on it the first day I got it. So why is it reading so low. Thanks for the reply.

Clock or timer should update on the next on/off cycle. You are looking at D70/71 by selecting #4 option right???

Hey guys... I have had my 56"G886 for about 4 days now and have learned how to read bulb hours. Well kind of. Can someone tell me the answer to my numbers. Thanks.

D070= 000
D071= 011

Do you find these numbers in the service menu?

Well there you go tedescm, 4 positive D-ILA owner opinions. Thanks for sharing your opinions guys... good stuff! It's been said before, but I think it bears repeating... these technical forums often attract people who are having problems with their sets. They're looking for answers, but some of them are also here to vent, and grind their axe a bit. I think that those who are not having problems are enjoying their HDTV's, and have no reason to come here. My impression of the D-ILA's has probably been skewed by that tilt, but there's something in my gut that tells me I'm not ready to take the gamble on the 2005 models. We're so close (ostensibly) to the release of the 2006 720p's, that there's no way I can do anything but wait at this point.


When will the new ones be out?

Do you find these numbers in the service menu?
Yes, select 4 even though it is not a visible option. :p

When will the new ones be out?

The press release from January on JVC's website says the 720p (XXG787) models are to be on the market in March. Nary a peep has been heard of them from any retailer as of yet. I don't know JVC's track record for meeting release dates. Maybe others here can speak to that...

Clock or timer should update on the next on/off cycle. You are looking at D70/71 by selecting #4 option right???

Yes Im looking at the D70 and D71 in the service menu. I looked again tonight after a power down and the last three digits are.

D70= 000

D71=010

Why are they going down?

I have one question folks, been reading a lot but couldn't really find teh answer to my question, my TV (HD-61Z886) on widescreen seem to go a bit off the edges, what options in the service menu do i look for to kind of like squeeze the horizontal and the vertical a bit (if it's even possible), it's about one inch on each side. Thanks for the replies.

Is there any possible way that someone could give me a cheat sheet to the service menu? I want to be able to use it but I am afraid that I will end up messing something up. This isn't something that should be messed around with but if someone has a key of somesort, I would greatly appreciate it!

I know that these DILA models shouldn't need a convergence adjustment due to the fact that the position of the chip is set and soldered at the factory but from what I understand, I heard that you can shift the colors about a pixel or two in any direction. My blue seems a little off but I have also heard that the blue will sometimes be a pixel or two off which in turn will make some colors a lot more vibrant. But to me, at times it can be an annoyance.

I tried searching but I can't find anything specific.

Any answers would be greatly appreciated!

Replacement lamp time, my picture is getting really dim, dimmer and dimmer each day, it isnt a year old yet so today i called the 800 number and they answered in under a minute..

They are going to call me back to place the order for the lamp, witch i thought was kind of strange, also they wanted me to have the lamp already out of the tv befor they call me back so i can prove that its broken...

again kinda strange...

Replacement lamp time, my picture is getting really dim, dimmer and dimmer each day, it isnt a year old yet so today i called the 800 number and they answered in under a minute..

They are going to call me back to place the order for the lamp, witch i thought was kind of strange, also they wanted me to have the lamp already out of the tv befor they call me back so i can prove that its broken...

again kinda strange...

Why is it strange that they want to know the condition of the lamp before they send you a new one? Any person can call up JVC and say that they need a new lamp but there are obviously some sort of specific characteristics that JVC looks for in a bad lamp.

i personaly dont like taking things apart until i have something to put back in, you wouldn't drain the oil to your car, and then wait a couple days for someone to deliver it to you...

how long do these guys usually take to call you back?

i personaly dont like taking things apart until i have something to put back in, you wouldn't drain the oil to your car, and then wait a couple days for someone to deliver it to you...

how long do these guys usually take to call you back?

The process of removing the lamp is as easy as changing a household lightbulb. There are specific instructions in the manual which tell you how to do the procedure.

If the lamp still works now (I understand that it is dim), if you follow the instructions, you should do no damage to the lamp whatsoever.

I have already pulled my lamp out once with zero problems. The reason I did so was that I was curious as to what the lamp looked like and I wanted to see just how easy the whole process of replacing the lamp was.

I have no idea how long it takes JVC to call someone back. I can tell you that it takes them almost a week to email you back though! You might want to give them a call if you want them to speed this thing along!

thanks for the heads up...
Its crazy how quick the picture keeps dimming, im sure it will blow anyday now, just wanna make sure i have a backup when the time comes...

I do a lot of projector installs at work, and part of my job is taking them apart and cleaning the internals from dust and burn-on debris... i just dont like giving the tv the oppertunity to let something get inthere, you should see some of the buildup these projectors have, and the blue hazes that occur from it...

thanks for the heads up...
Its crazy how quick the picture keeps dimming, im sure it will blow anyday now, just wanna make sure i have a backup when the time comes...

I do a lot of projector installs at work, and part of my job is taking them apart and cleaning the internals from dust and burn-on debris... i just dont like giving the tv the oppertunity to let something get inthere, you should see some of the buildup these projectors have, and the blue hazes that occur from it...
you may not get a day. :)

explain "blue hazes" please.

Alright!
I have had it!
I have been calling JVC all week to get an "in house" setup to have my set worked on.
It seems the light engine is failing again. The first time it acted up there was a quarter size neon purple spot in the center of the screen. Now it fist sized and visible on more than just dark areas like the first.
From the first "in house" I had an email and phone number of a customer care supervisor. I tried not to abuse it by bugging him with any questions i had. I have called the 1-800 number each day this week and the last 3 of last week only to be put on hold for literally an hour and a half and never reaching another soul. :mad:
So, I decide to email my contact. This too was to no avail. :mad:
I called his personal number and left a message. Guess what? Nothing! :mad:
By now I am really hating JVC.
I have called my dealer and gave them the rundown they said they would try to get an "in house" set up through the corporate channels. I am waiting for their reply.
I know it is JVC policy to perform 3 replacments before they swap out units but I don't really want another unit from them.
The first time I had to deal with JVC was a dream, no problem at all. Now i cant even get through to establish a call. I really hope my dealer has an issue as well so I can swap for the $ony 50A10.
If they come to fix it it will twice in 7 months not counting a bulb blown.
I can deal with bulbs going once a year or so, it is no biggie.
2-3 house calls is unacceptable, to me at least.
If anyone knows the fast track for JVC service let me know please.
I am really close to spamming the contacts box :) .

Also does anyone know how to open this set up to clean it.
I am on spring break and have time to play.
The ND filter mod instructions are of some help, but i really want to get in the light path to see if it reduces my purple spot.

[QUOTE=darthrsg]...I have called the 1-800 number each day this week and the last 3 of last week only to be put on hold for literally an hour and a half and never reaching another soul. :mad:
So, I decide to email my contact. This too was to no avail. :mad:
I called his personal number and left a message. Guess what? Nothing! :mad:
...QUOTE]

This sounds like the experience I had last year tryng to get a software issue resolved on my Toshiba laptop. This kind of nightmare is a risk every time you're dealing with call/service centers at remote locations. That's why I paid a little extra and bought my JVC at an established local store that does their own service and has a decades-long reputation. I haven't needed it so far (5 months, 2000 hours) but it gives me peace of mind knowing they're there.

you may not get a day. :)

explain "blue hazes" please.

A lot of projectors develop these after 1 year+ of use...

its like a film that develops on the lense right befor the lcd, and it causes the projector to show a blue haze on the edges of the picture, i havent experinced them in rear projection sets, just normal, LCD projectors..
they are a pain to clean, sometimes it cant be done with out replacing the imaging unit with the lense attached but that is costly...

A lot of projectors develop these after 1 year+ of use...

its like a film that develops on the lense right befor the lcd, and it causes the projector to show a blue haze on the edges of the picture, i havent experinced them in rear projection sets, just normal, LCD projectors..
they are a pain to clean, sometimes it cant be done with out replacing the imaging unit with the lense attached but that is costly...
what type of solution can you use on the lense? what type of cloth or material is best for these surfaces?

[QUOTE=darthrsg]...I have called the 1-800 number each day this week and the last 3 of last week only to be put on hold for literally an hour and a half and never reaching another soul. :mad:
So, I decide to email my contact. This too was to no avail. :mad:
I called his personal number and left a message. Guess what? Nothing! :mad:
...QUOTE]

This sounds like the experience I had last year tryng to get a software issue resolved on my Toshiba laptop. This kind of nightmare is a risk every time you're dealing with call/service centers at remote locations. That's why I paid a little extra and bought my JVC at an established local store that does their own service and has a decades-long reputation. I haven't needed it so far (5 months, 2000 hours) but it gives me peace of mind knowing they're there.
I bought mine at local retailer as well, but the kicker is that their service shop is not jvc certified on the d-ila's. my main issue is getting through to JVC customer service once the problem is recognized it will only be a matter of part order time and scheduling.

what type of solution can you use on the lense? what type of cloth or material is best for these surfaces?

a quality lint free cloth and lense solution, we use rosco lense cleaner and tissue...
circular motions as always...

Thanks Baldheadedgrl for the input.

A glimmer of hope, I bypassed JVC customer service and went straight to the service shop that fixed it last time. They got the ball rolling. Here are the pics I sent JVC.
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/503/JVCpurplehaloresizeA3_15.JPG
http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/503/JVCpurplehaloresizeB3_15.JPG

thats bad man, would definatly piss me off...
i still havent heard back from JVC on this replacement lamp...what a PIA..

thats bad man, would definatly piss me off...
i still havent heard back from JVC on this replacement lamp...what a PIA..
Those pics are when it most obvious to other folks, like my wife and neighbor.
It still shows up in other scenes though sometimes you can't see it at all. At least I know the service guys know what is going on and will get great service from them but, the ball is really in JVC's court now as to authorize parts and what not. I wonder what the backorder situation is for light engine/optical assembly.

Update.
I figured since the service call is just getting underway, what would it hurt to "play" with the guts of the D-ila.
So, using baldheadedgrl's suggestion of cleaning optics and such i began searching for ways to do this.
As usual no dice.Thanks Owners :) .
So, using a fellow AVS members' Flickr pool on ND filter mods for the JVC I ripped my set open and got the lay of the land.
Using the cloth that came with my PSP and a Q-tip of water I polished the hell outta the "Big Eye".
The end result is no more purple spot! :D
So now I think I am gonna tackle the mirror described in the service manual. It would sure be nice for a little input on removing the screen. :)
I see in the manual that it comes off in sections/layers or all at once. I prefer all at once, as it means less chance of damaging the screen.
If any of you guys know the procedure or can make it clearer than the engrish in the manual it would be great. I have seen that the G series have panels on the side for access. The Z's do not.

Does anyone know if jvc is replacing the hdmi input board? I have dade to reset the hdmi three times. I am using a direct tv h10 reviever. Also will I loose isf calibration if I reset hdmi?

Does anyone know if jvc is replacing the hdmi input board? I have dade to reset the hdmi three times. I am using a direct tv h10 reviever. Also will I loose isf calibration if I reset hdmi?
I am not sure of this myself but you can search for a user called "wearenotalone69" I think, he is the resident expert on the HDMI reset.

so the jvc guy just called me said jvc is out of stock on lamps but said they should be in next week, and once they are in they will send the lamp 2day fed ex...

he asked if the lamp was cracked or discolored...
you would think that they could just have 1 customer rep take care of this instead of waiting on a call back...

so the jvc guy just called me said jvc is out of stock on lamps but said they should be in next week, and once they are in they will send the lamp 2day fed ex...

he asked if the lamp was cracked or discolored...
you would think that they could just have 1 customer rep take care of this instead of waiting on a call back...

That is quite discouraging IMO. I thought that JVC would have learned their lesson by now and made sure that they always keep lamps in stock.

But I do believe that you will be watching T.V. again next week! I have heard that if they say that they will ship it 2nd day air, they will do so.

so the jvc guy just called me said jvc is out of stock on lamps but said they should be in next week, and once they are in they will send the lamp 2day fed ex...

he asked if the lamp was cracked or discolored...
you would think that they could just have 1 customer rep take care of this instead of waiting on a call back...
I have a spare I will sell for one hundred million dollars.

I also have a spare. I understand how important TV can be. 50 million dollars!

What graphics cards seem to work best with the 52z models. There is a "sale of the century" going on this weekend in my area and I am looking for a card to go in a cheap desktop for dvd upconversion.

TVAuthority sales told me that the new JVC 720p sets would not be available until June/July. This might be sales speak for "buy now"; but I've asked around at other retailers and online sites and they have had no response to my queries as to when JVC would launch.

I did buy the HD-52G786, but not for that reason alone. I'm trying to finish up the AV buying habit and just settle in for some viewing pleasure - my Sony W9000 is slowly dying and viewing HD through it is less than ideal. The wife was getting antsy waiting as well - she broke down and told me to 'just get it out of my system'.

Anyhow - I've enjoyed the research you all have provided and am looking forward to playing with the new set and new Denon 1920 DVD player. Taking the chance that the set I get will be a gem- ok a diamond in the rough that just needs a bit of polishing.

Does any1 know if there's a setting in the service menu or other that allows me to crop the image (kind of like a pc monitor to help make it fit well in the tv frame), I have the service manual but i can't seem to find the option. Thanks!

Edit: Forgot to mention the model is the HD-61Z886 :)

TVAuthority sales told me that the new JVC 720p sets would not be available until June/July. This might be sales speak for "buy now"; but I've asked around at other retailers and online sites and they have had no response to my queries as to when JVC would launch.

Thanks for sharing this... it is the first stance I've seen anyone take on giving a date for the G787's! Kudos to TV Authority for taking up the task. The JVC DILA was my first love when it came to HDTV shopping. I was set to buy one, but the lamp and light engine problems with current models scared me away. I was tempted to take a chance on the new models, with their new ballast/bulb design and optical iris, but I admit that I don't have the patience to wait any longer. I'm likely to be buying a Vizio 42" plasma during a special promotion next week at a national warehouse chain. I've suffered all I can stand with my 32" CRT SDTV.

Sorry to jump into this discussion so late, and so uneducated. I was in a store today and came across the 52G786 and was very impressed. Unfortunately, I don't know too much about this TV's track record with consumers, and I have to decide if I want to buy it in the next 16 hours, as that is when the sale ends. I was starting to read your thoughts, but damn, 104 pages! I will post some quick questions, which I understand could be answered by researching the thread, but could more easily be answered by somebody following the discussion.

- What is normal bulb life?
- What does a replacement bulb cost?
- Does SD programing look poorer on this set than comparable TV's?
- Does the TV have audio lag issues?
- Any other comments or opinions?

Thanks!

Sorry to jump into this discussion so late, and so uneducated. I was in a store today and came across the 52G786 and was very impressed. Unfortunately, I don't know too much about this TV's track record with consumers, and I have to decide if I want to buy it in the next 16 hours, as that is when the sale ends. I was starting to read your thoughts, but damn, 104 pages! I will post some quick questions, which I understand could be answered by researching the thread, but could more easily be answered by somebody following the discussion.

- What is normal bulb life?
- What does a replacement bulb cost?
- Does SD programing look poorer on this set than comparable TV's?
- Does the TV have audio lag issues?
- Any other comments or opinions?

Thanks!


Go online and find the best price for that model, then go to Sears with a print out of the price and they will match it and give you another 10% off of the price difference. My brother just did it 2 weeks ago. I've had the 61Z786 for 11 months now and love it. There's been some issues with bulb life it's supposed to be something like 3000hours, get an extended warranty, I think the bulb is about $200, some Sd really sucks, digital is decent, hd is stunning. I haven't had any audio lag issues. :)

1. Normal life should be 4-6k, though there have been complaints of premature burnout.
2. US$200
3. No
4. I have some lag problems with my satellite feed and from my DVD player, but its not the fault of the TV.
5. There is a good review of this model on www.avguide.com, November 2005 issue.
esteps

Sorry to jump into this discussion so late, and so uneducated. I was in a store today and came across the 52G786 and was very impressed. Unfortunately, I don't know too much about this TV's track record with consumers, and I have to decide if I want to buy it in the next 16 hours, as that is when the sale ends. I was starting to read your thoughts, but damn, 104 pages! I will post some quick questions, which I understand could be answered by researching the thread, but could more easily be answered by somebody following the discussion.

- What is normal bulb life?
- What does a replacement bulb cost?
- Does SD programing look poorer on this set than comparable TV's?
- Does the TV have audio lag issues?
- Any other comments or opinions?

Thanks!

- What is normal bulb life?
- What does a replacement bulb cost?
- Does SD programing look poorer on this set than comparable TV's?
- Does the TV have audio lag issues?


Hard to determine bulb life. You hear all kinds of things. Some people have complained about early burnouts, others report 6000+ hours. I've got 2000 hours with no problems, but I bought a back-up bulb just in case. And I'll probably get a UPS to prevent sudden power loss during summer storm season, which is hard on bulbs.

Anyway, I love my JVC so much I'd feed it bulbs if I had to. It's worth it.

SD satellite is very good on my set, certainly as good as I saw in stores on competing sets i.e. Sony A10 and A20, Toshiba DLP, and better than many others. HD satellite is stunning. There's lots of tweaks on the menu to refine your picture quality.

I play my audio through a home theatre so cannot comment on audio lag. But even tho it's not an expensive audio set-up ($400 Panasonic theatre in a box) it's better than the TV speakers so I recommend it as a worthwhile addition. Why have a superb viewing experience and settle for an ordinary audio?

I meant to say Video lag, not audio lag. I run all my audio through a dedicated system that does not have adjustable sync.

Last question: How suitable is the TV for nighttime movie viewing, vs the Sony LCD RPTV?

Any of you guys using a Mac on a "Z" series JVC? I am considering getting a Mini mainly as a upconverting dvd player and a way to get some experience with that OSX. I borrowed my brothers powerbook a while back and it had a DVI to HDMI adapter that was easy to use but and it recognized the model of the JVC in the control panel. I did not think to play a dvd :mad: though I was playing SNES :D .
I have been to the mini thread and know that the Apple DVD software isn't the best, but that is okay. I just want a new gadget and a stepping stone to a 2nd Gen powerbook later. A fellow employee has an all Mac setup with a Powerbook and Cinema display wireless KBM and it rules, it is just so simple and good looking. The old lady saw it and was like "Why doesn't our home office look this way?" What can you say to that?

pulled the trigger tonight guys... just gotta find someone with a truck to help pick it up

pulled the trigger tonight guys... just gotta find someone with a truck to help pick it up

Welcome aboard. Hope you have the same wonderful experience that I've had so far. I got my 52 inch, carton and all, in my Chrysler minivan. Had to tilt it slightly to get in the hatch (which is no problem as long as you don't drop it on its side), but it stood up once inside. At home I used a moving dolly to get it into the living room, but two capable adults could manage it easily.

Well, my bulb blew on Sunday. Seeing that it was going dim, I checked the hours using the instructions I found here. I had 735 hours on the bulb.

I called JVC yesterday morning at 9 AM. Had to wait on hold for 15 minutes, gave all of my information and was told a technician would call me back within 24 hours.

This morning at 11:30 I called again. I told the person who finally answered that I did not get my call back within 24 hours. She said that my call was not "escalated" properly yesterday, and that she re-entered me. I should now expect a call back within 24 to 48 hours.

I blew my stack. She repeated that I am now at the bottom of the list and it will take 24 to 48 hours to get a call back. I asked to speak with her manager and explained what happened. He reiterated that it can take 24 to 48 hours for a callback and I was not placed ahead in the list to make up for the screw-up yesterday. He said it wouldn't be "appropriate" to put me ahead of others. I said it wasn't my fault that yesterday's call wasn't handled properly, so it IS appropriate to expedite me up the list. He said he wouldn't do it. I told him this process is stupid and all I want is a bulb sent to me today.

I asked for his name, but I think he gave me a fake one since the name he gave isn't on the phone directory. Now I'm worried that he buried my call and I'll be waiting even longer. I filled out the email form yesterday, as well, but haven't received a call or reply from that, either.

At this point, I am VERY unhappy with JVC's customer service. Does anyone have any advice for me to expedite getting a damn replacement bulb?

You might try your local JVC authorized service tech.
Only 735 hours--yipes!
esteps

Well, my bulb blew on Sunday. Seeing that it was going dim, I checked the hours using the instructions I found here. I had 735 hours on the bulb.

I called JVC yesterday morning at 9 AM. Had to wait on hold for 15 minutes, gave all of my information and was told a technician would call me back within 24 hours.

This morning at 11:30 I called again. I told the person who finally answered that I did not get my call back within 24 hours. She said that my call was not "escalated" properly yesterday, and that she re-entered me. I should now expect a call back within 24 to 48 hours.

I blew my stack. She repeated that I am now at the bottom of the list and it will take 24 to 48 hours to get a call back. I asked to speak with her manager and explained what happened. He reiterated that it can take 24 to 48 hours for a callback and I was not placed ahead in the list to make up for the screw-up yesterday. He said it wouldn't be "appropriate" to put me ahead of others. I said it wasn't my fault that yesterday's call wasn't handled properly, so it IS appropriate to expedite me up the list. He said he wouldn't do it. I told him this process is stupid and all I want is a bulb sent to me today.

I asked for his name, but I think he gave me a fake one since the name he gave isn't on the phone directory. Now I'm worried that he buried my call and I'll be waiting even longer. I filled out the email form yesterday, as well, but haven't received a call or reply from that, either.

At this point, I am VERY unhappy with JVC's customer service. Does anyone have any advice for me to expedite getting a damn replacement bulb?

Well, my bulb blew on Sunday. Seeing that it was going dim, I checked the hours using the instructions I found here. I had 735 hours on the bulb.

I called JVC yesterday morning at 9 AM. Had to wait on hold for 15 minutes, gave all of my information and was told a technician would call me back within 24 hours.

This morning at 11:30 I called again. I told the person who finally answered that I did not get my call back within 24 hours. She said that my call was not "escalated" properly yesterday, and that she re-entered me. I should now expect a call back within 24 to 48 hours.

I blew my stack. She repeated that I am now at the bottom of the list and it will take 24 to 48 hours to get a call back. I asked to speak with her manager and explained what happened. He reiterated that it can take 24 to 48 hours for a callback and I was not placed ahead in the list to make up for the screw-up yesterday. He said it wouldn't be "appropriate" to put me ahead of others. I said it wasn't my fault that yesterday's call wasn't handled properly, so it IS appropriate to expedite me up the list. He said he wouldn't do it. I told him this process is stupid and all I want is a bulb sent to me today.

I asked for his name, but I think he gave me a fake one since the name he gave isn't on the phone directory. Now I'm worried that he buried my call and I'll be waiting even longer. I filled out the email form yesterday, as well, but haven't received a call or reply from that, either.

At this point, I am VERY unhappy with JVC's customer service. Does anyone have any advice for me to expedite getting a damn replacement bulb?


<darkside>Call me out on ethics if you will, but I fibbed right after my 1st bulb blew and said it blew again to get a spare.</darkside>

I thought JVC requires the burned out lamp to be returned.
esteps

<darkside>Call me out on ethics if you will, but I fibbed right after my 1st bulb blew and said it blew again to get a spare.</darkside>

I thought JVC requires the burned out lamp to be returned.
esteps
they didnt back in the day :D

Update:
Just got a call from my service guys.
I am supposed to send them some pics of the purple spot.
I did fix it myself but I am not telling them that.
This will probably be light engine swap number 2.
One more and I can possibly get the swap out authorized.

Well, my bulb blew on Sunday. Seeing that it was going dim, I checked the hours using the instructions I found here. I had 735 hours on the bulb.

I called JVC yesterday morning at 9 AM. Had to wait on hold for 15 minutes, gave all of my information and was told a technician would call me back within 24 hours.

This morning at 11:30 I called again. I told the person who finally answered that I did not get my call back within 24 hours. She said that my call was not "escalated" properly yesterday, and that she re-entered me. I should now expect a call back within 24 to 48 hours.

I blew my stack. She repeated that I am now at the bottom of the list and it will take 24 to 48 hours to get a call back. I asked to speak with her manager and explained what happened. He reiterated that it can take 24 to 48 hours for a callback and I was not placed ahead in the list to make up for the screw-up yesterday. He said it wouldn't be "appropriate" to put me ahead of others. I said it wasn't my fault that yesterday's call wasn't handled properly, so it IS appropriate to expedite me up the list. He said he wouldn't do it. I told him this process is stupid and all I want is a bulb sent to me today.

I asked for his name, but I think he gave me a fake one since the name he gave isn't on the phone directory. Now I'm worried that he buried my call and I'll be waiting even longer. I filled out the email form yesterday, as well, but haven't received a call or reply from that, either.

At this point, I am VERY unhappy with JVC's customer service. Does anyone have any advice for me to expedite getting a damn replacement bulb?


Dean,

I feel your pain.

My experience with JVC phone support was similar although i called them because my picture was so dim.

Support person #1 had me unplug the set for an hour and try it again.

As soon as i turned it back on, "poof" ,, the lamp went.

Called JVC support back and got support person #2 , I politely asked for support person #1 but was told i could not talk to that person and i would have to speak with him.
Support person #2 made me call two different TV repair shops (long distance) about my problem.

One of the two TV repair shops told me obviously the lamp had blown and could not understand why JVC would have had me call THEM since lamps are user replaceable and they would not pay them a 120mile round trip to replace the lamp.

I call JVC support a third time and got a lady. She then escalated the problem and the "tech"(who i could barely understand) says lamps are back ordered 1 week and i would receive one shortly thereafter. Of course you have to give them a credit card number to hold for ransom to insure you return the old lamp.

I also sent an e-mail to JVC support the same day i called JVC phone support.
They replied to the e-mail 5 days later.

So my set was down a total of two weeks.

MY set's warranty expires this week. I now have a spare lamp.

Update.
I figured since the service call is just getting underway, what would it hurt to "play" with the guts of the D-ila.
So, using baldheadedgrl's suggestion of cleaning optics and such i began searching for ways to do this.
As usual no dice.Thanks Owners :) .
So, using a fellow AVS members' Flickr pool on ND filter mods for the JVC I ripped my set open and got the lay of the land.
Using the cloth that came with my PSP and a Q-tip of water I polished the hell outta the "Big Eye".
The end result is no more purple spot! :D
So now I think I am gonna tackle the mirror described in the service manual. It would sure be nice for a little input on removing the screen. :)
I see in the manual that it comes off in sections/layers or all at once. I prefer all at once, as it means less chance of damaging the screen.
If any of you guys know the procedure or can make it clearer than the engrish in the manual it would be great. I have seen that the G series have panels on the side for access. The Z's do not.


Darth,

I have the exact same problem!

Are you still purple spot free after the cleaning???


Can you share with the rest of us what panels you had to remove to clean "the big eye"???

Appreciate the info.

I have posted this question on another forum before i read your comments here.

Dean,

I feel your pain.

My experience with JVC phone support was similar although i called them because my picture was so dim.

I also sent an e-mail to JVC support the same day i called JVC phone support.
They replied to the e-mail 5 days later.

So my set was down a total of two weeks.

MY set's warranty expires this week. I now have a spare lamp.

I just called for the third time about 30 minutes ago. I was informed that my 24-48 hour period for a call-back did not start until I called the second time on Tuesday, so I lost 24 hours due to the screw-up by the first person I called on Monday. Again, I was told I could not be connected with a tech, even though 48 hours has passed. MY 24-48 hours started on Tuesday, not Monday. So, I am now looking at up to another 24 hour wait. Boy, am I glad I called on Tuesday to check the status. I will be EXTREMELY upset if the tech tells me that he has no bulbs to send and I have to wait longer. But what can I do? Not a damn thing, it appears.

I have yet to receive a reply from my email.

Spectre, you say you now have a spare bulb. Did you buy one, or did you somehow get a second bulb under warranty? If so, how? As I said, I would love getting a second bulb to keep as a spare.

Spectre, you say you now have a spare bulb. Did you buy one, or did you somehow get a second bulb under warranty? If so, how? As I said, I would love getting a second bulb to keep as a spare.



deanbrew,

Bought the spare from someone on ebay.

Darth,

I have the exact same problem!

Are you still purple spot free after the cleaning???


Can you share with the rest of us what panels you had to remove to clean "the big eye"???

Appreciate the info.

I have posted this question on another forum before i read your comments here.
If you saw my pics posted earlier that was before the cleansing.
Post cleansing, I still have a purple glow but it is way way less noticable.
You would have to slo-mo to catch a glimpse of the effect.
I know the JVC sets crush black but not into purple.
There is still a lens I could have cleaned behind the big eye but I was sick of fooling w/the set.
It also seems to have made a big change in the clarity of the overall PQ which was a nice bonus.
I still placed a service call and have been approved(as of today)for light engine swap #2. I just have to wait for the part to get ordered and recieved to schedule for the in house.


here is the page with a link to to the break down of the set, it is a little scary at first but no problem really. it would only take 5 minutes to tear down.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=547602&page=8&pp=30

Got my phone call from JVC yesterday late afternoon, 56 hours after placing my first call. The tech said that the bulbs are "in transit from Japan" and should arrive within a few days. He will send one out to me via 2-day FedEx when they come in. I should have my bulb within seven days, he said.

I asked about the fact that they were out of stock, and he admitted that JVC is replacing "a lot" of bulbs, but that the lamp was re-designed last fall, and all bulbs sent out after late November are the improved lamps. He said they have received no redesigned lamps back yet under warranty.

That sounds good, but none of those lamps have been installed for more than about 3.5 months yet, so that isn't all that great an indication. Still, we can always hope that improvements were indeed made. Can't do much more than hope, can we?

At least I have some idea when my lamp should come. I still think JVC's customer service process is crappy. Of course, I went through the same thing getting a new bulb for my BIL's Sony TV. But it wasn't MY TV, so I didn't care all that much that it took a week to get a new lamp. [He is technology-adverse and had me get the new bulb and install it.]

I know I will be very happy when the TV is up and running again. I still think the TV provides a great picture, and I hope this lamp lasts the 6,000 hours that JVC says it should.

If yours is going to be the redesigned bulb ~ Please post the part #.
Thanks.
Rob

If yours is going to be the redesigned bulb ~ Please post the part #.

The spare lamp I bought back in February has a "model number" of TS - CL110U. Is this the same as the part number?

Ok guys, got the TV in looks great. Although I want to pull my hair out:

- Connected the receiver (yamaha RX-V1300) component out to the TV
- Hooked up DVD to the receiver via component
- Hooked up the cable box, PS2, and DVD/VCR recorder to the receiver via S-Video

Then I try the DVD and it looks AWESOME. Switch the receiver to the other inputs and nothing shows up. What the hell... nothing shows up. Maybe the S-Video to component up conversion isn't working. Scroll through some menus on the Yamaha, can't find anything. Look in the manual, and find that I have S-video to composite conversion, not the S-Video to component conversion I though I always had! DAMMIT. This means I have to change inputs on the TV every time I want to switch between DVD and the other sources.

So, I add an SVideo cable from the reciever to the TV. This works. Now I go to the JVC menu and try to hide the inputs I'm not using. I can't do it. This TV doesn't seem to have this feature. Then I try to rename the inputs. This doesn't seem to work either. I try to set the TV to auto detect the source... doesn't work.

Now I'm pissed off that when I want to change sources to or from my DVD I have to scroll through the list of 6 randomly named inputs.

Please tell me I am missing something and there is an easy fix to my problem.

Ok guys, got the TV in looks great. Although I want to pull my hair out:

- Connected the receiver (yamaha RX-V1300) component out to the TV
- Hooked up DVD to the receiver via component
- Hooked up the cable box, PS2, and DVD/VCR recorder to the receiver via S-Video

Then I try the DVD and it looks AWESOME. Switch the receiver to the other inputs and nothing shows up. What the hell... nothing shows up. Maybe the S-Video to component up conversion isn't working. Scroll through some menus on the Yamaha, can't find anything. Look in the manual, and find that I have S-video to composite conversion, not the S-Video to component conversion I though I always had! DAMMIT. This means I have to change inputs on the TV every time I want to switch between DVD and the other sources.

So, I add an SVideo cable from the reciever to the TV. This works. Now I go to the JVC menu and try to hide the inputs I'm not using. I can't do it. This TV doesn't seem to have this feature. Then I try to rename the inputs. This doesn't seem to work either. I try to set the TV to auto detect the source... doesn't work.

Now I'm pissed off that when I want to change sources to or from my DVD I have to scroll through the list of 6 randomly named inputs.

Please tell me I am missing something and there is an easy fix to my problem.

I don't think you're missing anything. Get a Harmony remote.

Hey Loose,
The menu system of the JVC is known to suck. The input selection of the JVC is known to suck. I say get a harmony as well or any other remote that will handle the job as the stock remotes for most TV's suck.

Booo...

Things you take for granted. I will go get my HDTV cable box, and then that and the DVD, both of which get 90% of the TV's use, will be on component and I won't have to deal with the JVC input selector very much.

We encountered same. Found the most expedient, cost effective solution is to daisy-chain DVD into back of cable box. The DVD signal is sent to TV when cable box is off. See no real signal loss this way. I set up a Philips last week with similar issues. This seems to be a common problem these days.

has anyone else experinced what i posted here

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7376102#post69

with the lamp
http://www.sonofasockmaker.com/images/lampsmall.jpg
click the links below for fullsize
http://www.sonofasockmaker.com/images/lamp1.jpg
http://www.sonofasockmaker.com/images/lamp2.jpg
http://www.sonofasockmaker.com/images/lamp3.jpg
http://www.sonofasockmaker.com/images/lamp4.jpg
http://www.sonofasockmaker.com/images/lamp5.jpg

I know that this post originally started with ppl posting ways to improve adjustments. So I thought I share my observations here. I also have a few questions afterwards.

I have the 61Z786 - and still on first bulb
purchased in August of 2005
Manufacture date March of 2005
Hours on bulb -> 921

I went into the service menu and found that the convergence was spot on. However the overscan was off. It was up and to the right. Now fixed :)

My original settings for the light drives are as follows -
R drive 116
G drive 128
B drive 109

Now I have both DVE and AVIA and have used both to set my TV's in the past. I have adjusted the JVC using DVE first, then the AVIA to make some fine point adjustments. Not sure which one is more correct, but the DVEvsAVIA on tint and color seem to be right on. However, the pluge and contrast differ slightly.
There are two areas in the AVIA disc that I like better on the tint and color. They have a percent bar that shows all three colors -RGB- and when you have everything set by the blue film, you can then slightly adjust if your red or green are too high(however this may sacrifice a little on blue - with my blue right on 0 my TV was about 10-15% high on green and 5-10% high in red). However, by getting into the service settings I had hoped to correct it even more. The other area is the moving pluge signal that AVIA talks about and state that is better than the older style (DVE) setting with the blacker than black. Suggesting that most DVD players can't properly produce blacker than black settings. I have an Arcam D78, that puts out a 625/525 progressive (odd that it's 625/525, but I'm not sure how to tell what is actually being used on the JVC - upscaling to 720?? Not sure how to tell) which automatically uses the 0-IRE setting. In interlaced
mode you have the choice to change from the 7.5-IRE or use the 0-IRE setting.

Now here is my set up without touching the service settings -

Tint +4
Color +5
Picture +17
Bright +5
Detail -13

From what I saw others settings at, I thought maybe my Picture was a little high - however, by using gray scale and the AVIA moving bars (in the white contrast signal) it all appeared within spec.

I read on another member that his set was calibrated from an ISF tech and when he was finished the settings were as follows -
R drive 126
G drive 112
B drive 128

Well, I go into my service settings and changed mine to match this users settings. Now I know that every TV is different, however since I wrote down my settings it couldn't hurt to try.

I then redid all the tests preformed earlier -

Tint +4
Color +4
Picture +7
Bright +5
Detail -13

The biggest difference I saw now was when using the AVIA disc to look at the three different color bars, when blue was at 0, red and green were right at 0 to maybe 5%. That gave me a good feeling and it looked good too! The coolest thing was I was able to get close to what an ISF could do. This however isn't going to stop me from getting an ISF tech out to get it closer to perfect. I just wanted to be able to see if I could do better than what JVC had originally set up.

One of the questions I had was how do the four color settings (Standard, Game, Theater, and Dynamic) work in conjuntion with inputs? I have a PVR and have the settings set through component and my DVD player is through the other component. The difference is that the PVR keeps its color settings but the DVD player has the same color setting as the regular cable. I'm not sure I understand the why it does this and not keep color settings different for each input.

This forum has been great and thought I could do whatever possible to contribute back to my fellow members.

Thanks guys!

Joey

turbo,
the picture settings you ask about are all related to scan rate.
if your pvr is outputting 480i and you set it on "game" or whatever to adjust, any other 480i on "game" will have the same setting regardless of input. you can technically have different settings for each scan rate on each mode. Like 480i 480p 720p 1080i "dynamic" will all have different color or tint settings.

BALDheadedGRL,
My blown bulb did just like that with "white powder" as well.

Am thinking of getting an 886 from Beach Audio and was wondering if it JVC honours
warrenties from internet retailers?

Before I purchased the 56G last year from buydig dot com, I called JVC and asked them the same question. They said as long as I had an invoice that clearly described the item and the price, the warranty would be honored.
As it turned out, I needed warranty service the first month of ownership and JVC honored it with no objections.
esteps

Am thinking of getting an 886 from Beach Audio and was wondering if it JVC honours
warrenties from internet retailers?

Am thinking of getting an 886 from Beach Audio and was wondering if it JVC honours
warrenties from internet retailers?
yep, you just need something with your name what/where you paid and a date.

I recently purchased JVC HD-61Z886. Overall I am happy with the set, but I am having a strange video problem.

Whenever I play video from any source (Component or S-Video) that does not fill the entire screen, I get these light bars at the edge of the screen. I am also getting some wierd yellow and blue discolorations along the edges of on screen items.

At first I thought it might be a power issue, so I isolated the TV to its own circuit and installed a decent UPS/Surge protector. That did not help the problem.

Any advice as to what might be the problem? I only have a few days left on my return policy, and then I will have to deal with the warranty service.

I recently purchased JVC HD-61Z886. Overall I am happy with the set, but I am having a strange video problem.

Whenever I play video from any source (Component or S-Video) that does not fill the entire screen, I get these light bars at the edge of the screen. I am also getting some wierd yellow and blue discolorations along the edges of on screen items.

At first I thought it might be a power issue, so I isolated the TV to its own circuit and installed a decent UPS/Surge protector. That did not help the problem.

Any advice as to what might be the problem? I only have a few days left on my return policy, and then I will have to deal with the warranty service.
"light bars" could be sidebars? they are grey on JVC sets.

"light bars" could be sidebars? they are grey on JVC sets.

No, what I am referring to is not the JVC Grey side bars. Please checkout the following pictures

http://home.comcast.net/~frothware/far.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~frothware/closeup.jpg

Notice along the top and bottom edges of the image displayed on the screen that there are bars about 1/4" high that are noticeably lighter or darker than the rest of the picture. In the closeup picture, you can see the yellow and blue "outline" (the staff) that I am getting as well.

The source is a Sony DVD player, set to progressive scan, 16x9 TV, component cables. I also notice this problem with my Xbox (regular, not 360), which is running over S-video.

No, what I am referring to is not the JVC Grey side bars. Please checkout the following pictures

http://home.comcast.net/~frothware/far.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~frothware/closeup.jpg

Notice along the top and bottom edges of the image displayed on the screen that there are bars about 1/4" high that are noticeably lighter or darker than the rest of the picture. In the closeup picture, you can see the yellow and blue "outline" (the staff) that I am getting as well.

The source is a Sony DVD player, set to progressive scan, 16x9 TV, component cables. I also notice this problem with my Xbox (regular, not 360), which is running over S-video.
Rule #1. BACK OFF THE SCREEN! :D
Rule #2. Try the RGB convergence to tighten that up a bit.

Just for kicks, How close do you sit to the thing?

I sit about 12' from the screen. The pictures I took were much closer.

How do I access the RGB convergence screen? I assume it's part of the service menu, as I do not see it in the regular settings menu. How do I access the service menu, and what settings should I look for?

I sit about 12' from the screen. The pictures I took were much closer.

How do I access the RGB convergence screen? I assume it's part of the service menu, as I do not see it in the regular settings menu. How do I access the service menu, and what settings should I look for?
hit sleep timer
then
video stat and display at the same time
press 9
you will see the rgb convergence screen
make sure the switches on top of remote are to the left, i think :) .

I was one of the few here not having any problems with my TV, but Monday night the picture started getting dark. :mad: I'm at about 1100 hrs on the bulb and almost 7 months with the set. Time to call JVC.

Since this is the jvc d-ila owner thread, I have to ask:

How comparable is the samsung 720p dlp televisions to the jvc d-ila 720p televisions?

If I could get the jvc for considerably less than the samsung, would it be worth it?

I'm looking at an open box item from best buy for like 500 bucks cheaper than the comparable dlp samsung.

are you guys satisfied with your jvc purchase?

Since this is the jvc d-ila owner thread, I have to ask:

How comparable is the samsung 720p dlp televisions to the jvc d-ila 720p televisions?

If I could get the jvc for considerably less than the samsung, would it be worth it?

I'm looking at an open box item from best buy for like 500 bucks cheaper than the comparable dlp samsung.

are you guys satisfied with your jvc purchase?
yes

Personally I think the JVC's picture quality is second only to the Sony SXRD (which is way more expensive by the way). Yes, i'm satisfied.

How comparable is the samsung 720p dlp televisions to the jvc d-ila 720p televisions?...If I could get the jvc for considerably less than the samsung, would it be worth it?
...are you guys satisfied with your jvc purchase?

There is an element of taste in comparing images, and personally I preferred the softer image of the JVC when I compared them in stores. I paid a higher price for my JVC than for the closest Sammy (which at 50 inches was slightly smaller) and have never regretted it. I have never had the ownership experience of a DLP, Samsung or otherwise (if I was to buy DLP it would probably be Toshiba) but in 6 months and 2000 hours with my JVC I couldn't be more pleased. It was everything that JVC promised and more.

I called JVC about the bulb on Wednesday. They called me back last evening and said the replacement bulb would be at my place middle of next week. Good thing I've got a spare. Fairly painless process. I don't think this is the first time they've had to replace a bulb. :rolleyes:

I have a 56G886 purchased in Oct/05, about 750 hours on the bulb. One week ago last Friday, the picture started going very dim. Called support, and a tech returned my call last Tuesday, the 28th. He had me pull the bulb and look for either a "spider-web" kind of pattern in the bottom of the bulb or a "bubble" around the base of the stem of the bulb. My bulb had both of these. The tech then sent me out a new bulb, which arrived today. Just in time because the old one finally "popped" last night (not that I could enjoy watching such a dim display anyway).

So, start to finish, it took about 10 days to fix this. No charge for the bulb, and I have to send the old one back in their package. I asked the tech if there were a lot of bulb problems with these sets - he said no, that mine just expired prematurely and they will replace it for no charge - he refused to comment further on it.

Overall, I am satisfied with the customer service, but I am disappointed the bulb went out so soon and am worried how long this one will last.

I have a 56G886 purchased in Oct/05, about 750 hours on the bulb. One week ago last Friday, the picture started going very dim. Called support, and a tech returned my call last Tuesday, the 28th. He had me pull the bulb and look for either a "spider-web" kind of pattern in the bottom of the bulb or a "bubble" around the base of the stem of the bulb. My bulb had both of these. The tech then sent me out a new bulb, which arrived today. Just in time because the old one finally "popped" last night (not that I could enjoy watching such a dim display anyway).

Thanks Zabo for the info. I have the same set, bought in Oct/05, and pretty much the same hours on the bulb, but mine is still going strong. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I avoid turning the set off and on for short periods in the hope that the bulb will last longer. We'll see.

Thanks Zabo for the info. I have the same set, bought in Oct/05, and pretty much the same hours on the bulb, but mine is still going strong. I don't know if it makes a difference, but I avoid turning the set off and on for short periods in the hope that the bulb will last longer. We'll see.

Same here. First off, I am very happy overall with this set and would buy again.

My set , also purchased oct. 30, 05 started going dim on last Thursday. Called JVC Friday. Tech called back first thing Monday morning and told me the exact same thing as Zabo. I will pull the lamp today when I get home but have no doubt it will show the same as Zabo's. Tech told me lamp should be here within a week :rolleyes:
Hope so.

Well, I bought my 56G886 last August and it currently has 1300 hrs. I keep waiting for the "explosion" but nothing yet.
But I am also a very happy customer!
esteps

Same here. First off, I am very happy overall with this set and would buy again.

My set , also purchased oct. 30, 05 started going dim on last Thursday. Called JVC Friday. Tech called back first thing Monday morning and told me the exact same thing as Zabo. I will pull the lamp today when I get home but have no doubt it will show the same as Zabo's. Tech told me lamp should be here within a week :rolleyes:
Hope so.

Anything discernable? I can't find any comments or docs to support any changes. I was about to pull the trigger on a 786 and then saw the 886.

Cheers,
Brian

the 786 and 886's are exactly the same except the 786 has the black bezel and the 886 is silver/black.

the 786 and 886's are exactly the same except the 786 has the black bezel and the 886 is silver/black.

That's correct. The black one looks better to my eye, but otherwise they are identical. I am also very satisfied with my 61Z786. Very nice TV. I hope to have it for many years until SED or something significantly better (not DLP, LCD or plasma) is out and in use for a while.

Does anyone know whether the glass middle shelf is adjustable height-wise or can be removed as I would like to put an 8" high center channel speaker on this stand

My 61Z786 is almost a year old and while the picture looks pretty good I think it has degraded over the course of a year. There is a geometry problem that seems to have crept in and the picture doesn't seems sharp as before. Since the 1 year warranty is almost up I'd like to get these issues resolved.

Have people who had warranty work done started with a local service company or started with an 800 number? If the latter, since JVC probably has a million numbers is there a recommended 800 number?

Anyone in CT have experience with these repair shops: JVC Authorized Service Centers for model HD-61Z786: ELWIN ELECTRONICS, ROCHE SERVICE COMPANY, NEW ENGLAND TELEVISION SERVICE?

My 61Z786 is almost a year old and while the picture looks pretty good I think it has degraded over the course of a year. There is a geometry problem that seems to have crept in and the picture doesn't seems sharp as before. Since the 1 year warranty is almost up I'd like to get these issues resolved.

Have people who had warranty work done started with a local service company or started with an 800 number? If the latter, since JVC probably has a million numbers is there a recommended 800 number?

Anyone in CT have experience with these repair shops: JVC Authorized Service Centers for model HD-61Z786: ELWIN ELECTRONICS, ROCHE SERVICE COMPANY, NEW ENGLAND TELEVISION SERVICE?

I used their warranty repair. I had great results just not with the 800 number, get up with the service centers instead.

Well i just got this TV over the weekend. My model is 56g786. I think i have to tweak mines somewhat because my SD chnnels dont look so good . You notice the pixelation on my regular DTV from TWCNYC. Does anyone know if i switch to the new HDDVR units will the PQ get better? Or will it still look the same? The DVDs look awesome on my regular PS2 and im planning to get a preogressive scan DVD players soonso that wont be a problem.

Does anyone know whether the glass middle shelf is adjustable height-wise or can be removed as I would like to put an 8" high center channel speaker on this stand

Glass middle shelf is removable but not adjustable. If you drill new holes for the pins, you could change the shelf height pretty easily.

Still waiting for my bulb. Called JVC back yesterday and they said it should be here any time now. It's currently a week late. If I didn't have a spare bulb, I'd be going out of my mind!

EDIT: Received my bulb on Wednesday. Swapped it out with the spare. All is well. Took two weeks from initial phone call to the bulb was in the TV.

Still waiting for my bulb. Called JVC back yesterday and they said it should be here any time now. It's currently a week late. If I didn't have a spare bulb, I'd be going out of my mind!

I am also waiting. Originally called JVC on 3-31(Friday) picture dimming. Since I called after hours they returned my call 4-3 (Monday) first thing AM. Tech said I had to remove the lamp and tell him what I see. Since I was at work, by the time I returned home that afternoon it was again after hours. I left a message with the tech's voice mail and he again returned my call first thing in the am on 4-4. Said I should receive the lamp by Friday or Monday (4-7 or 4-10). Lamp completely blew Sat. afternoon. As of yesterday, 4-10-06 I still had not received so I called again yesterday afternoon (yep, after hours again) left another message. Tech called me back first thing this am. Was very apologetic, said the lamps were not in yet & should be in two or three days BUT then said "I don't know why your lamp did not ship, let me make some calls to our service centers and if there, I'll overnight it" Very strange. in the meantime, I still am without :(
I love the set, don't have a real big problem with the bulbs going out only that it is like pulling teeth to get the replacement.
Okay, I feel better after the rant. Hopefully I'll be back in HD bliss soon :rolleyes:

I recall some folks decided to get ahead of the game by ordering a replacement bulb for standby in order to circumvent the shipping delays when the bulb eventually goes out. Does anyone out there have good (cost effective) resources for these bulbs?

Just wanted to report that I used the HDMI reset procedure (as pioneered by wearenotalone69) last night and it worked like a charm!

Digital-in stopped working, I think the TV and STB got out of sync on start-up. Went into the service menu and did the self-check. Everything showed "OK" except HDMI which returned "NG9". I take that to mean "No good". Anyway, followed the process, and I'm back in business. Service call averted - breathing returns to normal. :)

Reading all the post about bulb life I took it upon myself to order a "spare". Went online to JVC and ordered it on March 3, 2006. Called on the 28th to track the order and it was lost. Had to reorder. After some emails wanting tracking info I finally received the spare today (4/12/06).

I just hope that I don't have to use it for many months yet. Set went into service on 1/25/06 and averages 8 hours per day.

I am also waiting. Originally called JVC on 3-31(Friday) picture dimming. Since I called after hours they returned my call 4-3 (Monday) first thing AM. Tech said I had to remove the lamp and tell him what I see. Since I was at work, by the time I returned home that afternoon it was again after hours. I left a message with the tech's voice mail and he again returned my call first thing in the am on 4-4. Said I should receive the lamp by Friday or Monday (4-7 or 4-10). Lamp completely blew Sat. afternoon. As of yesterday, 4-10-06 I still had not received so I called again yesterday afternoon (yep, after hours again) left another message. Tech called me back first thing this am. Was very apologetic, said the lamps were not in yet & should be in two or three days BUT then said "I don't know why your lamp did not ship, let me make some calls to our service centers and if there, I'll overnight it" Very strange. in the meantime, I still am without :(
I love the set, don't have a real big problem with the bulbs going out only that it is like pulling teeth to get the replacement.
Okay, I feel better after the rant. Hopefully I'll be back in HD bliss soon :rolleyes:

Well, the tech just called me a few minutes ago. Said the bulb is being shipped this afternoon and I would have by Friday :) Too bad only a half hour earlier I had ordered one through ebay at a bit of a high price :( Both should be at my house on Friday(two weeks from my first call to JVC) Guess the good thing is at least I will have a spare :eek:

My set became very dim one day before it's 6 month "birthday" with about 1600 hours. I called JVC and they told me that because the bulb hadn't blown, that I had to call a local service center and arrange for an in-house service call. I called a local guy, told him the symptoms. He had me take the bulb out and I told him that there was a big pimple on the side of the bulb. He said that it was the same symptoms as a bulb going bad and told me to bring the bulb, reciept, and serial number and forget about a service call. I did, and within 2 hours of the symptoms, had a new bulb in the tv, on a Saturday no less. Man, I forgot how bright it was when new. Anyways, the moral to the story is, check with an authorized service center first and maybe they have a bulb.

My set became very dim one day before it's 6 month "birthday" with about 1600 hours. I called JVC and they told me that because the bulb hadn't blown, that I had to call a local service center and arrange for an in-house service call. I called a local guy, told him the symptoms. He had me take the bulb out and I told him that there was a big pimple on the side of the bulb. He said that it was the same symptoms as a bulb going bad and told me to bring the bulb, reciept, and serial number and forget about a service call. I did, and within 2 hours of the symptoms, had a new bulb in the tv, on a Saturday no less. Man, I forgot how bright it was when new. Anyways, the moral to the story is, check with an authorized service center first and maybe they have a bulb.

Man, you were very fortunate. I called all local authorized service centers in a 75 mile radius and they all told me the same thing, "...we do not keep them in stock but can have them in 7 - 10 days..." :( Glad your luck was better. I can't wait for my new bulb(s)

Hi all. I have a problem that I've mentioned before and if anything it seems to be geting a little worse. There is visible banding and a lot of digital noise in reds. It's not in all reds, just certain shades of red, sometimes orang or pink I think it has something to do with a bd lcos panel, probably the red one, but I'm not sure. I see it in NTSC, ATSC OTA, over HDMI, and component. Does anyone else have this problem (other than LMDA1). Techs have come by and they can see the problem, but they haven't been able to fix it. THey don't seem to know what's causing it and JVC's attitude is that if the tech can't fix it and it's a problem that I see, then the set is working normally. My attitude is no way is this acceptable and within tolerences. Sometimes it's so bad it looks the red areas of an image are blurred out, like nudity on TV. I'ts not THAT bad, but it sometimes looks close. I'm just trying to giv eyou a visual analogy. Does anyone else notice this?

I was just wondering how you guys have the TV set up for night viewing. The TV is way to bright in the dark.

Use TheaterPro (Theater).


I was just wondering how you guys have the TV set up for night viewing. The TV is way to bright in the dark.

I was just wondering how you guys have the TV set up for night viewing. The TV is way to bright in the dark.

Standard. Burn those retinas baby!

Even on theater it is too bright. I'm only 8' away.

I was just wondering how you guys have the TV set up for night viewing. The TV is way to bright in the dark.
Get yourself a good calibration DVD such as the AVIA DVD and adjust your set's bightness and contrast at night. I did that and ended up with the following settings using the Standard preset for all of my viewing, including DVD's. Picture = -5, Bright = +3, and Detail = -20. If you use the Dynamic preset for your viewing (the one used in the store to demo the set) you WILL burn those retinas baby!

Even on theater it is too bright. I'm only 8' away.


Do a search for my previous posts on a ND Filter mod. I posted links to it.

(ND Filter = Neutral Density Filter)


It's a filter that cuts down the amount of light going into (preferablly) the light engine.

Just wanted to report that I used the HDMI reset procedure (as pioneered by wearenotalone69) last night and it worked like a charm!

Digital-in stopped working, I think the TV and STB got out of sync on start-up. Went into the service menu and did the self-check. Everything showed "OK" except HDMI which returned "NG9". I take that to mean "No good". Anyway, followed the process, and I'm back in business. Service call averted - breathing returns to normal. :)

Thanks for saying "thanks".... It took allot of my time trying to find the info at a point in time not many people "cared"... Got a bunch of conflicting info, half truths about a service remote being needed, etc.

Even on theater it is too bright. I'm only 8' away.

Is this a new TV? The bulb will dim a little over time as it breaks in. When I first got mine a friend and I sat there and watched the thing for hours after which I had a headache fro the brightness.

I just changed the bulb a few days ago and the thing is really bright again. Give it some time and see if that helps.

This is how you read the bulb hours. On your remote first push sleep, then push display and video status at the same time. then select 4 (even thought not on the screen) Navigate to D070, read the left most three digits. use this number *256, navigate to D071, read the left most three digits, add to first number. = total hours. i.e. D070=002 and D071=060 then total hours = (2*256)+(60)=572.

Okay, I am checking my lamp hours on my 61Z786 (purchased June 14, 2005 firmware f163) and so far, I've had no lamp issues, heck nothing whatsoever with my set...knock on wood... following the above instructions here are my service menu numbers:

D070 06
006 06 0000 0110


D071 73
115 73 0111 0011

So the left most numbers would it be D070=006 and D071=115???
If so, my lamp hours would be (6*256)+(115) = 1651 total hours

Is that the correct way of calculating the lamp hours?

Yes.

Okay, I am checking my lamp hours on my 61Z786 (purchased June 14, 2005 firmware f163) and so far, I've had no lamp issues, heck nothing whatsoever with my set...knock on wood... following the above instructions here are my service menu numbers:

D070 06
006 06 0000 0110


D071 73
115 73 0111 0011

So the left most numbers would it be D070=006 and D071=115???
If so, my lamp hours would be (6*256)+(115) = 1651 total hours

Is that the correct way of calculating the lamp hours?

I recently purchased this set and am looking for a stand that will hold my center speaker which is 9.25" in height. Does anyone know the shelf height/spacing of either the RK-CPR66 or RK-CILAM6 stand? I have searched everywhere for this but could only find outside dimensions.

Following the same pattern as reported by others, it first started getting dimmer, then pop. I had a spare I bought last January, so installed that. Really easy if you follow the instructions. Back to full magnificent D-ILA glory, if anything better than I remember it when the set was new. Reduced the brightness setting on the menu from +10 which I was using at the end to -15, to avoid having to use sunglasses.

I'll take the original lamp back to the store. They told me when I bought the spare in January that if it blew within the warrentee period I could trade it in for a new one which I will use as my new spare.

We'll see if the new one lasts longer. One thing I have now is a UPS to prevent improper shutdowns.

Still love my D-ILA. Not so fond of lamp manufacturers, tho.

Are the inputs arranged on the left side if looking from the back?

Yes

I have been putting off a JVC purchase for about 4 months due to the bulb issues i have been reading about here. How long does it take to replace one? Also, do you need to access the rear of the unit? Given my cabinet configuration, it would be a major headache to get it out if i needed to access the back.

Its about a 5-10 minute deal to replace bulb. Access is on the left side as you face the screen about half way back

Have been watching this thread for about a year. "People" have been speculating that the cost of the bulbs would be 'reasonable' in about a year. Price then was $200-$250. I have not seen that change....anybody care to guess as why. Mass production should be up and running by now. (52G786)

To clarify, phoenix, you don't need access to the back of the set to change a bulb. You need access to the front and to the left side just behind the screen. It's a very simple process to change the bulb....thank goodness. The process is very similar with Sony LCD-RP sets, BTW. I replaced the lamp in my BIL's Sony TV at 6 months and again at 12 months.

Regarding why bulbs still cost a lot: it's likely because they are in such demand by TV manufacturers for new sets and warranty repairs, as well as by customers for replacements. And also because it's not just JVC who needs them. All TV manufacturers are having the same lamp burn-out problem, and most lamps are probably made by just a couple of lamp companies, regardless of what brand TV they go in.

I have been putting off a JVC purchase for about 4 months due to the bulb issues i have been reading about here. How long does it take to replace one? Also, do you need to access the rear of the unit? Given my cabinet configuration, it would be a major headache to get it out if i needed to access the back.


Unless you're talking about a "Z" series Dila, access to the lamp is on the left side of the unit.

One thing nobody has mentioned is the Dila's only weigh about 98 lbs.... Which is FAR better that 250 -300 lbs that CRT based sets weigh.

It's NOT a big deal for two girls to move a DILA. While your set-up may be differant, most cabinets have a little wiggle room in them and with the way the case is angled the biggest part of the TV is the screen, Once you slide that out, Or push it back on one side you can angle the case to gain access to the lamp. To replace a lamp is about a 3 minute job.

What if it is a Z series? Is the replacement more difficult?

...Regarding why bulbs still cost a lot: it's likely because they are in such demand by TV manufacturers for new sets and warranty repairs, as well as by customers for replacements. And also because it's not just JVC who needs them. All TV manufacturers are having the same lamp burn-out problem, and most lamps are probably made by just a couple of lamp companies, regardless of what brand TV they go in.

All this is quite likely true, and also, as I understand, the manufacturing process is still quite labour-intensive, being a carry-over from the days of much more limited volume for home front projectors. If RP sets are to become as common as CRTs, the lamp manufacturers will have to improve things drastically, producing far cheaper and longer-lived lamps. But since there would seem to be little profit incentive for them to shoot their own golden goose in this way, I am not holding my breath. The answer is hopefully LED or laser light sources, which would allow set manufacturers to use only one chip instead of 3. But these are still unproven, so we'll have to wait and see. To take advantage of these, however, we'll almost certainly have to buy new sets.

The answer is hopefully LED or laser light sources, which would allow set manufacturers to use only one chip instead of 3. But these are still unproven, so we'll have to wait and see. To take advantage of these, however, we'll almost certainly have to buy new sets.

A JVC retailer told me that JVC is working on an LED light source for its DILA sets. He said that JVC is convinced they can replace the finicky lamps with an LED light without making many other changes, solving the lamp burn-out problem. I don't know if he knows what he is talking about or not. I took his comments with a grain of salt, but who knows?

I agree that even if they can move to LED, we likely wouldn't be able to retrofit. Theoretically, it would seem reasonable to change the light source, but JVC would be more interested in selling new TVs than helping those who already own sets.

I have been reading about LED bulbs as well, even heard about one that could be fitted to any brand set. I read it all on internet.

Well, if JVC won't make one for sets they've already sold, I'm sure some after market outfit will do so and make a lot of money selling them to people like us.

I have ordered the HD-52G787 (form factor is pretty much the same as HD-52G786) and need to get a solid stand (wood, wood finish preferably). Any recommendations? I was leaning towards the Bush Furniture VS53936 (rack and stands).

Thanks, I can't wait for this thing to get here :D

I have ordered the HD-52G787 (form factor is pretty much the same as HD-52G786) and need to get a solid stand (wood, wood finish preferably). Any recommendations? I was leaning towards the Bush Furniture VS53936 (rack and stands).

Thanks, I can't wait for this thing to get here :D

Bush makes "quality" stands! I purchased a Bush stand for my HD-52G786 and it looks great!

I have one as well and am very happy with it.

About two weeks ago I picked up a Toshiba HD-DVD player and I've since had the time to watch a few movies with it on my HD56G786. In short I'm very pleased with the picture I'm getting.

Some have complained that this TV shows HDTV compression artifacts more than other displays in the same field. I've seen this myself with a JVC and a DLP running the same feed side by side and the JVC showing what seemed to be more blocking in scenes with a lot of motion. People have posted here that this is a shortcoming of the TV while others have posted that the TV is simply displaying what is present in the signal. With HD-DVD there is no blocking on the three titles I have. This TV performs very well when fed a good signal.

I spent some time comparing the HD-DVD Last Samurai disc with a transport stream recorded from HBO-HD and played on a HTPC. I compared a few scenes and while the slow moving or still scenes are only marginally better on HD-DVD the scenes with high motion are far better.

I also compared the Last Samurai HD-DVD to the SD-DVD of the film and the HD-DVD simply blows the DVD away on this TV. The HD-DVD displays way more detail and none of the artifacts typical with DVDs.

I was pretty happy with the way HDTV looked on this display but HD-DVD is better. I can't imagine an image looking any better on this display. I've watched Serenity and Apollo 13 (last night) all the way through and they looked great. Detail is crisp and sharp without edge enhancement and film grain is clearly visible.

I find the combination of this player and display to be spectacular. You really can just watch the movie now instead of zeroing in on artifacts. This next generation DVD technology seems well matched to this display and I imagine Blu-Ray will look equally as good. I can't wait for more content.

After two months of waiting on parts the service shop took my tv out of the house and replaced the Optics Assy, Reciever Module, Input Module, and Digi Module. I go into the service menu and my R,G,B drive settings are at 128. I then change them to lower the red and blue drives and hit menu when done and all is fine until I turn off my tv at the end of day. Turn it on this morning and they all reset back to 128 again. This is just frustrating. I also notice that there is a nice ding the size of a dime on the base of the unit right in the middle. Sure is an eye sore for me. What do I do now.

Also noticed that my ILA-COM was at +01 and that forces the blue light to delay by about 30 seconds when you turn the tv on. So I set that back to +00 so that when my wife and anyone else who turns it on knows its on and doesn't hit the power button again.

Heck if the drives keep resetting I have no way of getting the thing calibrated. It sure needs it. My 1 year is up in end of July.

I have had about 4 months of down time since this set was in my house on July 31 of last year.

I forgot to say that when they brought the tv back they ended up bringing the wrong one the first time. Strange how somone else with the exact same model had major repairs being done at the same time don't ya think?

I have ordered the HD-52G787 (form factor is pretty much the same as HD-52G786) and need to get a solid stand (wood, wood finish preferably). Any recommendations? I was leaning towards the Bush Furniture VS53936 (rack and stands).

Thanks, I can't wait for this thing to get here :D

I just bought this one for my black 61z786 yesterday and it is absolutely sexy looking with the set on top of it.

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Bell-O-58-63-Black-TV-Stand-AVS-2762-/sem/rpsm/oid/146481/catOid/-12892/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

I have been reading about LED bulbs as well, even heard about one that could be fitted to any brand set. I read it all on internet.

I've been thinking about this and doing some more reading since I replaced my lamp and saw how it is installed. If LED lamps require multiple lights, one would need a larger lamp housing. This could be accomodated by leaving off the door and having an extension that mounted flush with the outside of the set around the door. The two screws could go through the lamp the same way they do now.

So maybe it is possible. We can only hope.

After two months of waiting on parts the service shop took my tv out of the house and replaced the Optics Assy, Reciever Module, Input Module, and Digi Module. I go into the service menu and my R,G,B drive settings are at 128. I then change them to lower the red and blue drives and hit menu when done and all is fine until I turn off my tv at the end of day. Turn it on this morning and they all reset back to 128 again. This is just frustrating. I also notice that there is a nice ding the size of a dime on the base of the unit right in the middle. Sure is an eye sore for me. What do I do now.

Also noticed that my ILA-COM was at +01 and that forces the blue light to delay by about 30 seconds when you turn the tv on. So I set that back to +00 so that when my wife and anyone else who turns it on knows its on and doesn't hit the power button again.

Heck if the drives keep resetting I have no way of getting the thing calibrated. It sure needs it. My 1 year is up in end of July.

I have had about 4 months of down time since this set was in my house on July 31 of last year.

I forgot to say that when they brought the tv back they ended up bringing the wrong one the first time. Strange how somone else with the exact same model had major repairs being done at the same time don't ya think?


try mute instead of menu, on my "Z" series menu just backs up, mute saves. :)

try mute instead of menu, on my "Z" series menu just backs up, mute saves. :)

Thanks. Will try it out. I just wish I could figure out how to get rid of the pink noise. I guess that is what it must be. Happens alot on amber colord scenes in middle to upper half of screen. Looks like slite flashing pink on some various programs. Mostly network stuff.

ALso what are my rights as far as the ding the damn techs put on my tv. I hate it. Its an eyesore and by god it must have been a hard hit.

WOOHOOO!!! Finally purchased a JVC HD-61Z786 after MANY months of research and saving! I love it so far! I do consider myself a newbie though and have started reading this thread in full. In the meantime, have we come to a conclusion on the BEST settings yet for this set? Also, any other helpful solutions for a newbie like myself? Thanks in advance guys! :-)

Edit: *Subscribed to thread*

I still haven't gotten used to the brightness of my 61Z786. The blacks are just nowhere near as deep as my old Toshiba 55" crt proj. I'm pretty disappointed.
Does anyone have any suggestions to get this fixed?
I know others had put a light filter in.
Since the newer model has an optical iris for this issue, i wonder how hard it would be to put in a similar device, ie. a piece of material with a hole in it, placed in the light path...

WOOHOOO!!! Finally purchased a JVC HD-61Z786 after MANY months of research and saving! I love it so far! I do consider myself a newbie though and have started reading this thread in full. In the meantime, have we come to a conclusion on the BEST settings yet for this set? Also, any other helpful solutions for a newbie like myself? Thanks in advance guys! :-)

Edit: *Subscribed to thread*
As you read through this thread you will see a number of posts with suggestions for settings. The one I found most useful, and followed, was one that suggested the following settings: Colour Management ON, Do Not use Theatre Mode - Use Standard Mode always, Dynamic Gamma OFF, Smart Picture OFF, Colour Temperature LOW, and Detail -30. Apparently Dynamic Gamma and Smart Picture have a negative affect on the top and bottom ends of the greyscale reducing definition in the blacks at one end, and lighter colours at the other end of the scale. These setting were made by a pro who adjusted the poster's set and corroborates what I have read in reviews about the JVC DILA sets. I set Picture to -5, and Bright to +3 using the AVIA DVD. I also set Detail to -20. The test patterns on the AVIA DVD indicated that the detail setting began to be correct at -20, and was perfect at -30, but I found that -30 produced a picture that was too soft for my taste. So I bumped it back up to -20.

Hope this helps.

Well that fix didn't work well. Only took 4 days and now my screen is green again. This is the 3rd time I have had this green screen.

Complete frustration. I want JVC to refund me or get me a set that works. Downtime at least 4 months since I bought July 31.

As you read through this thread you will see a number of posts with suggestions for settings. The one I found most useful, and followed, was one that suggested the following settings: Colour Management ON, Do Not use Theatre Mode - Use Standard Mode always, Dynamic Gamma OFF, Smart Picture OFF, Colour Temperature LOW, and Detail -30. Apparently Dynamic Gamma and Smart Picture have a negative affect on the top and bottom ends of the greyscale reducing definition in the blacks at one end, and lighter colours at the other end of the scale. These setting were made by a pro who adjusted the poster's set and corroborates what I have read in reviews about the JVC DILA sets. I set Picture to -5, and Bright to +3 using the AVIA DVD. I also set Detail to -20. The test patterns on the AVIA DVD indicated that the detail setting began to be correct at -20, and was perfect at -30, but I found that -30 produced a picture that was too soft for my taste. So I bumped it back up to -20.

Hope this helps.
Awesome, I can't wait to get off work and mess with it!

Also, I bought the floor model, anyone know where I could download the manual for the JVC HD-61Z786?

Awesome, I can't wait to get off work and mess with it!

Also, I bought the floor model, anyone know where I could download the manual for the JVC HD-61Z786?


http://books.jvcservice.com/booklist.asp?Model=HD-61Z786

As you read through this thread you will see a number of posts with suggestions for settings. The one I found most useful, and followed, was one that suggested the following settings: Colour Management ON, Do Not use Theatre Mode - Use Standard Mode always, Dynamic Gamma OFF, Smart Picture OFF, Colour Temperature LOW, and Detail -30. Apparently Dynamic Gamma and Smart Picture have a negative affect on the top and bottom ends of the greyscale reducing definition in the blacks at one end, and lighter colours at the other end of the scale. These setting were made by a pro who adjusted the poster's set and corroborates what I have read in reviews about the JVC DILA sets. I set Picture to -5, and Bright to +3 using the AVIA DVD. I also set Detail to -20. The test patterns on the AVIA DVD indicated that the detail setting began to be correct at -20, and was perfect at -30, but I found that -30 produced a picture that was too soft for my taste. So I bumped it back up to -20.

Hope this helps.
Thanks, those settings look pretty good! I am downloading the Avia DVD now to see if it makes any differences.

Also, What is best for picture from my dvd player... It has all of these outputs: the normal audio/visual cables (yellow, red, white) , or should I buy an S-video cable? or should I buy P(red) P(blue) Y(green) cables?(whatever they are called, sorry I am so new at all of this!) Also, my DVD player has an "optical" output... should I buy an optical cable? Does the JVC HD-61Z786 even accept optical? Wow, I feel out of my element... sorry I am trying to do my research as fast as I can! Thanks again guys!

Also, What is best for picture from my dvd player... It has all of these outputs: the normal audio/visual cables (yellow, red, white) , or should I buy an S-video cable? or should I buy P(red) P(blue) Y(green) cables?(whatever they are called, sorry I am so new at all of this!) Also, my DVD player has an "optical" output... should I buy an optical cable? Does the JVC HD-61Z786 even accept optical? Wow, I feel out of my element... sorry I am trying to do my research as fast as I can! Thanks again guys!
My JVC TV only has 1 HDMI input and I'm using that for my HD Cable box. Apparently that gives you the best HD picture according to this forum, and that has been my experience as well. The next best type of connection, and the one I have to use for my DVD player is the PPY connection. A standard DVD player looks its best with this sort of connection and an HDMI connection will not improve on the picture, unless you have an HD DVD player.

My JVC TV only has 1 HDMI input and I'm using that for my HD Cable box. Apparently that gives you the best HD picture according to this forum, and that has been my experience as well. The next best type of connection, and the one I have to use for my DVD player is the PPY connection. A standard DVD player looks its best with this sort of connection and an HDMI connection will not improve on the picture, unless you have an HD DVD player.
I will check to see if my JVC HD-61Z786 has 1 or 2 HDMI ports... if it does have 2 is it worth getting a HD DVD player? or is it not much better than the PPY connection?

I will check to see if my JVC HD-61Z786 has 1 or 2 HDMI ports... if it does have 2 is it worth getting a HD DVD player? or is it not much better than the PPY connection?
HD DVD is brand new and very expensive. Plus there are two competing formats. Frankly I don't think it's a good idea to buy right now, way too early, and there aren't that many DVD releases in HD. Just use your current DVD player with a PPY connection till they sort out the format thing, and the prices come down.

HD DVD is brand new and very expensive. Plus there are two competing formats. Frankly I don't think it's a good idea to buy right now, way too early, and there aren't that many DVD releases in HD. Just use your current DVD player with a PPY connection till they sort out the format thing, and the prices come down.


...or pony up the cash, deal with the buggy player, and bask in the warm glowing glory that is HD-DVD!

HD DVD is brand new and very expensive. Plus there are two competing formats. Frankly I don't think it's a good idea to buy right now, way too early, and there aren't that many DVD releases in HD. Just use your current DVD player with a PPY connection till they sort out the format thing, and the prices come down.
Thanks for the advice! Everything stil looks pretty good on this set.. no problems so far! I calculated 2,518 hours on the bulb (cuz I bought the open box model) How long do you think it will last? Should I get a new bulb ready?

Anyone having any major problems?

Thanks for the advice! Everything stil looks pretty good on this set.. no problems so far! I calculated 2,518 hours on the bulb (cuz I bought the open box model) How long do you think it will last? Should I get a new bulb ready?

Anyone having any major problems?
From what I've read on this forum, you may need a new bulb soon. Actually 2500 hours is encouraging. Please let us know how many hours are on the bulb when it finally croaks. I currently have 1034+ hours on mine and it's just fine. At my current useage rate I should get 3 years out of my bulb as long as it lasts the rated hours.

From what I've read on this forum, you may need a new bulb soon. Actually 2500 hours is encouraging. Please let us know how many hours are on the bulb when it finally croaks. I currently have 1034+ hours on mine and it's just fine. At my current useage rate I should get 3 years out of my bulb as long as it lasts the rated hours.
Well, I am beginning to wonder how great it would look with a new bulb! I will definately let you know. I am trying to figure out the kind of UPS to buy... any suggestions?

Well, I am beginning to wonder how great it would look with a new bulb! I will definately let you know. I am trying to figure out the kind of UPS to buy... any suggestions?

I have the pureav battery backup surge protector and it works great. In fact I just ordered another one wich will arrive today. Can be had for under $200.

Well, I am beginning to wonder how great it would look with a new bulb! I will definately let you know. I am trying to figure out the kind of UPS to buy... any suggestions?
I bought a Belkin (I think) rated at 750 VA for $90 at Staples. A friend of mine bought a Monster UPS at Future Shop (think Best Buy) here in Canada for $250 which was an outrageous price to pay. He heard what I paid and returned it for the deal at Staples. The dealer I bought the TV from had a number of different UPS's for sale, all at what I call convenience store prices and they varied in rating from 500 to 750 VA. My advice is to get the best deal you can find. There is no such thing as a special UPS for TV's.

Well, I am beginning to wonder how great it would look with a new bulb! I will definately let you know. I am trying to figure out the kind of UPS to buy... any suggestions?
If you get a new bulb you can use the old one as a backup. I'm told that new bulbs are really bright for a short time (my experience) and once they're broken in, they provide just the right amount of light. Your current one is probably doing just that.

I just got cable with HD ESPN... looks freakin ridiculous... I am in awe lol.

I just got cable with HD ESPN... looks freakin ridiculous... I am in awe lol.

Glad you're enjoying the set. I had mine set to detail -10, picture-20 and everyhting else at zero in standard with gamma on and smart pic on but just tried Jakles settings and agree they look pretty good. Gotta love the AVS forums! Thanks.

Okay, I am checking my lamp hours on my 61Z786 (purchased June 14, 2005 firmware f163) and so far, I've had no lamp issues, heck nothing whatsoever with my set...knock on wood... following the above instructions here are my service menu numbers:

D070 06
006 06 0000 0110


D071 73
115 73 0111 0011

So the left most numbers would it be D070=006 and D071=115???
If so, my lamp hours would be (6*256)+(115) = 1651 total hours

Is that the correct way of calculating the lamp hours?

I got a floor model 56G786 and it shows
D070 at 009 and D071 at 017 and I get 2321hours. The image is still on the too bright side in Theater mode and blinding in Dymamic. It makes me wonder what will happen with a new bulb. I'll get a spare but for sure this bulb has to blow soon and will be covered by a new owner warranty. If I figured the hours wrong lmk?

Ugggh searching the thread for this info could take forever. I'm in the service menu anyone know how I find the gains and bias or cuts and drives so I can use my colorfacts system?

Ugggh searching the thread for this info could take forever. I'm in the service menu anyone know how I find the gains and bias or cuts and drives so I can use my colorfacts system?


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154
This is the service manual for your set, happy tweaking :) . Post your results and settings when you get a chance.

Thanks, will do

Hey guitarman, with over 2k hours you mighta got a winning bulb. That's great news though. I am anxious to see your RGB and other settings post colorfacts.

I see the RGB-drives which is the contrast or lighter shades of gray. I'll need to find the RGB-cuts to do the low end of the grayscale. Haven't found them yet, they should be in there somewhere.

On the bulb, I'm one to believe electronics like to be used to keep running well. Being this display was probably on daily and not turned on and off many times in the day is probably why the bulb is lasting with high hours. Bulb displays need a good amount of cool down time before you turn them on again. Over a half hour at least.

with 118 pages or so i dont have time to look,i havent been here since the beginning when i first bought my 61 incher, but i have a couple questions,
1. i had my tv calibrated,but when power goes out(seems like alot) i have to manually reset all the detail/brightness/ect numbers, is there a way to save my settings?

2. also, before calibration and mainly on my dvd input there were serious dark lines every 6 inches all the way across the screen , going up and down, they are lighter after cal,but still visible in certain scenes, and when power goes out they are fully there again, its like a shadow going up and down but they are running up and down all the way across, any ideas?

3. i still have little smudges that seem to be on the other side of the screen,this seriously irritates me during scenes with light colors or white screens

any ideas? i bought the extended warranty but i dont know if these are just normal things,or maybe the tv reacting with my denon 2200 dvd player

I ran some tests on my new JVC 56G786 display model that has 2300 hours on the bulb. I used Colorfacts and the Accupel HDG-3000 reference generator to perform the tests.

First I ran several contrast ratio tests to find which and what a preset does for on/off contrast. Only Theater mode produces high contrast it came in at near 1500.1 see picture. All the other including Dynamic were just shy of 1000.1.

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/JVCDLIA1.jpg

Next up was to calibrate the grayscale. I could only find RGB-drive but was able to flatline a nice D65k with just RGB-drive. Since I had no low end RGB control I kept running full grayscale checks with the Accupel generator. The Accupel will run automated tests very quickly which made it easy. Final result was an excellent D65k flatlined grayscale with a gamma near 2.2.

Only JVC checked option was Color MGT. Dynamic gamma ALS all were unsued, plus Theater Pro.

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/JVCDLIA2.jpg

Here's what the Grays looked like.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/JVCDLIA3.jpg

My original service RGB numbers are
R-drive 125
G-drive 128
B-drive 122

D65k tuned numbers are
R-drive 121
G-drive 095
B-drive 095

I know you're asking how was the OTB grayscale. I saved it in PDF form but I have trouble linking those here. Anyway Red and Blue fell 10% short of Dy65k evenly aross each shade of gray. Green was .05% high over D65k all across the shades of gray.

Here's the catch at stock even though not reference tuned the JVC looks excellent color wise and has is own unique style. It produces 1500.1 contrast at stock. When you tune down to D65k the contrast goes down under close to 1000.1

It's your option if you prefer stock or tuned. Maybe my numbers with work for some. What I see with tuned is a image that looks very much like my tuned Toshiba 57HX93. A darker image approaching CRT type look. Oh black level was nice and low on my 2300hrs bulb 0.021ftl which is 1/3 lower the the tested new 1080p machine in HC/iris mode. Contast was just under 1500.1 while the new 1080p machine came in at 1575.1

Hope owners enjoyed my findings.

Do I prefer tuned or stock the jury's not out. I switched back to stock last night and have to say I liked the extra contrast and colors looked interesting also. my my

3. i still have little smudges that seem to be on the other side of the screen,this seriously irritates me during scenes with light colors or white screens

any ideas? i bought the extended warranty but i dont know if these are just normal things,or maybe the tv reacting with my denon 2200 dvd player

I have a 52g787 and my smudges were caused by small dust/particulates on the lens. You can move the front screen a little and see if the smudges move or not - if they don't there is a good chance that's what it is!

I have a 52g787 and my smudges were caused by small dust/particulates on the lens. You can move the front screen a little and see if the smudges move or not - if they don't there is a good chance that's what it is!


if thats what it is can you just have someone clean it or something? maybe at the same time as a calibration?

I am a brand new HD61FH96 owner and I have a question (problem?). I have adjusted the basic picture controls to produce a good (to me) picture: Theater Mode, RGB settings at 0, etc. Watching standard cable TV on the new set shows good color.

However, the first DVD I watched was the newest "King Kong". I noticed many areas of green on the black fur of the ape. I tried another DVD with B&W test patterns and it also shows green where gray/black should be. I am using the component/progressive video outputs of my DVD recorder - a cheap WalMart ILO unit. I don't see a green cast to any other colors; in fact, I probably wouldn't have noticed this as quickly if I was watching another DVD.

Since I don't notice the green areas on sources other than the DVD, could my recorder be the problem? I have no other televisions that will accept component inputs; just an S-video input on my old 27" tube set. How would you recommend that I troubleshoot this?

Thanks for any assistance.

if thats what it is can you just have someone clean it or something? maybe at the same time as a calibration?

I'm sure - or you can do it yourself with a microfiber cloth. I believe it would qualify under JVC warranty too - if you want to have a technician do it. Pretty simple to take one screw out of the side access panel, reach in and clean.

Since I don't notice the green areas on sources other than the DVD, could my recorder be the problem? I have no other televisions that will accept component inputs; just an S-video input on my old 27" tube set. How would you recommend that I troubleshoot this?

Thanks for any assistance.

I would try connecting just the S-Video from the DVD player to the JVC, and check to see if you still see the problem, and if you do, then I would connect the S-Video to your 27" tube set, and if you again see the problem, then I would suspect the DVD, or the player.

And judging by some of the horror stories I just read about that player (manufactured by LitOn), I would definitely suspect the player!

If you plan to send the player/recorder back, make sure the company will continue your original warranty with the "used replacement" they are going to send you.

Do a google search on that player and you will see what I mean! :)

I am a brand new HD61FH96 owner and I have a question (problem?). I have adjusted the basic picture controls to produce a good (to me) picture: Theater Mode, RGB settings at 0, etc. Watching standard cable TV on the new set shows good color.

However, the first DVD I watched was the newest "King Kong". I noticed many areas of green on the black fur of the ape. I tried another DVD with B&W test patterns and it also shows green where gray/black should be. I am using the component/progressive video outputs of my DVD recorder - a cheap WalMart ILO unit. I don't see a green cast to any other colors; in fact, I probably wouldn't have noticed this as quickly if I was watching another DVD.

Since I don't notice the green areas on sources other than the DVD, could my recorder be the problem? I have no other televisions that will accept component inputs; just an S-video input on my old 27" tube set. How would you recommend that I troubleshoot this?

Thanks for any assistance.

Usually green blacks usually indicates a faradouja chip in the DVD that produces that green cast in blacks phenomenon (or at least the most popular cause). Do you have a stand alone DVD player you can test with?

I have had my JVC 61" G787 for only a week and don't know what everyone is complaining about the black levels. I used my dvd essentials just like I have for my Samsung and for my Dell HD set and it looks stunning. Sometimes I think people just like to complain.

This set has the best HD picture I've seen for the money..

ON a side note my friend just got a Panny a900 something projector. Really impressive and so clean.

I would try connecting just the S-Video from the DVD player to the JVC, and check to see if you still see the problem, and if you do, then I would connect the S-Video to your 27" tube set, and if you again see the problem, then I would suspect the DVD, or the player.

MoPro,

Thanks for your suggestion. I will try both of these things this evening. I won't be surprised if it turns out to be the DVD player. I'm almost hoping it is, so I'll have a reason (excuse?) to get a new HDMI up-converting player!

Regards,
Eric

Usually green blacks usually indicates a faradouja chip in the DVD that produces that green cast in blacks phenomenon (or at least the most popular cause). Do you have a stand alone DVD player you can test with?

Kid Red,

It's not so much a green cast in the black; it's more like green spots or blobs. I will dig out my older DVD player and see what results that produces. Thanks!

Regards,
Eric

I have a 52g787 and my smudges were caused by small dust/particulates on the lens. You can move the front screen a little and see if the smudges move or not - if they don't there is a good chance that's what it is!


I have a similar problem. But, the smudges only appear once in a while. Always in the same place. Could it be a humidity or other environmental issue. Its strange. Everytime I get ready to call JVC and complain the smudges disappear on there own.

I have a similar problem. But, the smudges only appear once in a while. Always in the same place. Could it be a humidity or other environmental issue. Its strange. Everytime I get ready to call JVC and complain the smudges disappear on there own.


mine dont seem to be there all the time,but i think it depends on the color of what is onscreen at the time, a darker color -even just slightly -will cover them, but if its a white or light blue like a sky it shows up

I ran some tests on my new JVC 56G786 display model that has 2300 hours on the bulb. I used Colorfacts and the Accupel HDG-3000 reference generator to perform the tests.

First I ran several contrast ratio tests to find which and what a preset does for on/off contrast. Only Theater mode produces high contrast it came in at near 1500.1 see picture. All the other including Dynamic were just shy of 1000.1.

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/JVCDLIA1.jpg

Next up was to calibrate the grayscale. I could only find RGB-drive but was able to flatline a nice D65k with just RGB-drive. Since I had no low end RGB control I kept running full grayscale checks with the Accupel generator. The Accupel will run automated tests very quickly which made it easy. Final result was an excellent D65k flatlined grayscale with a gamma near 2.2.

Only JVC checked option was Color MGT. Dynamic gamma ALS all were unsued, plus Theater Pro.

http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/JVCDLIA2.jpg

Here's what the Grays looked like.
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/JVCDLIA3.jpg

My original service RGB numbers are
R-drive 125
G-drive 128
B-drive 122

D65k tuned numbers are
R-drive 121
G-drive 095
B-drive 095

I know you're asking how was the OTB grayscale. I saved it in PDF form but I have trouble linking those here. Anyway Red and Blue fell 10% short of Dy65k evenly aross each shade of gray. Green was .05% high over D65k all across the shades of gray.

Here's the catch at stock even though not reference tuned the JVC looks excellent color wise and has is own unique style. It produces 1500.1 contrast at stock. When you tune down to D65k the contrast goes down under close to 1000.1

It's your option if you prefer stock or tuned. Maybe my numbers with work for some. What I see with tuned is a image that looks very much like my tuned Toshiba 57HX93. A darker image approaching CRT type look. Oh black level was nice and low on my 2300hrs bulb 0.021ftl which is 1/3 lower the the tested new 1080p machine in HC/iris mode. Contast was just under 1500.1 while the new 1080p machine came in at 1575.1

Hope owners enjoyed my findings.

Do I prefer tuned or stock the jury's not out. I switched back to stock last night and have to say I liked the extra contrast and colors looked interesting also. my my

Thanks guitarman, were there any other settings you adjusted or just RGB drives? A poster around here named "Videobruce" may have some more info on the cuts, he is not hard to find :) .

Thanks guitarman, were there any other settings you adjusted or just RGB drives? A poster around here nmaed "Videobruce" may have some more info on the cuts, he is not hard to find :) .

Sorry for the elementary question...but how the heck do we change RGB values on the tv? I didn't see the option in the menu.

Sorry for the elementary question...but how the heck do we change RGB values on the tv? I didn't see the option in the menu.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154

the above link has the service menu pages, it will tell you how to get into the service menu and make the changes, just remember to write down your original values before you change anything.
off the top of my head:
press sleep timer then video adjust and display at the same time

this will give you 3 options, one of them is "adjust" select that

navigate to the "SO" labeled settings

mute saves the changes

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154

the above link has the service menu pages, it will tell you how to get into the service menu and make the changes, just remember to write down your original values before you change anything.
off the top of my head:
press sleep timer then video adjust and display at the same time

this will give you 3 options, one of them is "adjust" select that

navigate to the "SO" labeled settings

mute saves the changes

Wonderful. Thanks! :)

One more question though...what should the rest of my setting be at? I changed my RGB to the new settings but didn't really see much of a difference. I'm currently in "Standard" mode with everything set at default. Is this where I should be?

Thanks.

Wonderful. Thanks! :)

One more question though...what should the rest of my setting be at? I changed my RGB to the new settings but didn't really see much of a difference. I'm currently in "Standard" mode with everything set at default. Is this where I should be?

Thanks.
guitarman used theater pro setting(I prefer the standard), all the other enhancements off except the color management one. Run through the Avia or DVE dvds to set your color and what not and you should be golden. The changes performed should get you an accurate grayscale, it is hard to be exact without having the set calibrated by a pro but better gray is better color. D65 is the holy grail around here on AVS. This thread has several members settings back from post 1 to 50 or so it is worth the read to tweak it out.

Thanks!

"Anyway Red and Blue fell 10% short of D65k evenly across each shades of gray. Green was .05% high over D65k all across the shades of gray."

This was my particular TV, green being high and R/B being low would show you there's a slight green bias to the grays. Which is why the recent talk about my blacks look a little greenish was said.

I failed to mention something important. Since the service RGB-drives are uniform (only 1 alteration is memorized) I used the Accupel to tune up for HDTV (HDMI/720p) my preference. Important HDTV brightness setting is -12 and contrast/Picture is at +30, color -03, tint -04, Detail -15 and Theater mode was used.

But the underlying set balance should hold over pretty good for DVD. Since I use component cables for DVD with an analog Faroudja player (Phillips Q50). I would just use the Avia disc to set the proper black and white levels. You could tune color and tint also. The JVC user area does remember seperate tunings per signal input.

What I got for 480p/DVD over component is -
Theater
Tint +01
Color -05
Picture +30
Bright -05
Detail -15
Color temp low

It's all subjective really. Things will change when I install the new bulb. I'll order a bulb and start over. Remember right now my black level is at 21 ft-lamberts. That's 1/3 of the best new 1080p's black level with it's Iris tuned down for best CR.

The JVC gets better with age. ;)

I am a brand new HD61FH96 owner and I have a question (problem?). I have adjusted the basic picture controls to produce a good (to me) picture: Theater Mode, RGB settings at 0, etc. Watching standard cable TV on the new set shows good color.

However, the first DVD I watched was the newest "King Kong". I noticed many areas of green on the black fur of the ape. I tried another DVD with B&W test patterns and it also shows green where gray/black should be. I am using the component/progressive video outputs of my DVD recorder - a cheap WalMart ILO unit. I don't see a green cast to any other colors; in fact, I probably wouldn't have noticed this as quickly if I was watching another DVD.

Since I don't notice the green areas on sources other than the DVD, could my recorder be the problem? I have no other televisions that will accept component inputs; just an S-video input on my old 27" tube set. How would you recommend that I troubleshoot this?

Thanks for any assistance.

Here's what you need to do if my tuning numbers don't work for you.

Look at a pattern like this one -
http://www.cigarbest.com/sales/JVCDLIA3.jpg

You'll be tuning up DVD most likely. First do the basics with Avia. Then go into the service menu and increase the Red & Blue Drives up until the Gray Bars in the pattern I showed you show no green bias. The green will be easiest to see in the darker shades of gray. This should help to take the green out of the blacks that you're seeing. Re-tune with Avia after you've made service-drive changes. Always write down your origianal service drive numbers for safe keeping.
Good luck and better blacks. :)

One more thing, the HDTV signal is a different brightness level all together. So copy the difference I got with the Accupel. Make your HDTV brightness 7 clicks lower than component DVD.

I had this happen tonight (never happened before). I could not turn on the TV until I unplugged it and plugged it in again. Is this something that signals problems to come? Thanks in advance for any info.

I have owned the 56G for over 9 months and had that situation happen one time.
I also unplugged and plugged to make it work. I assumed the problem was as stated in the Troubleshooting section of the manual: "It may be a malfunction of the internal electrical circuits". It also refers to the microprocessor and says: "If the television does not function correctly, remove the electrical plug from the wall outlet and wait a while before inserting it into the wall outlet again and operating the television."
esteps

I had this happen tonight (never happened before). I could not turn on the TV until I unplugged it and plugged it in again. Is this something that signals problems to come? Thanks in advance for any info.

I have owned the 56G for over 9 months and had that situation happen one time.
I also unplugged and plugged to make it work. I assumed the problem was as stated in the Troubleshooting section of the manual: "It may be a malfunction of the internal electrical circuits". It also refers to the microprocessor and says: "If the television does not function correctly, remove the electrical plug from the wall outlet and wait a while before inserting it into the wall outlet again and operating the television."
esteps
It always struck me that these sets have more in common with a computer than the CRT TV's we have known for decades. I understand that they use firmware probably based on linux. So if they lock up once in a while, fine; unplugging them for a bit is the solution. I just hope that's all it is.

Well, for my first post here and after reading 54 pages of this 108 page thread I wanted to welcome myself to the forum, this thread and as a new owner of a JVC HD52G786 HD-ILA!

Having said that, I bought an open box from the local BB after some serious consideration, a little research and considerable soul-searching! This particular unit just had the buld changed and is a return. The manufacturing date of the one I am picking up is either June or August 2005 - depending on which one I get as both just had bulbs replaced.

After reading through the 54 pages before heading here I just wanted to say hello, subscribe to this thread and look for any suggestions or highlights others might want to share.

Sorry for the intrusion but I have been holding off moving to HD for several years now and am so happy to retire the seven-year old Toshiba 50" RPTV that you have to occassionaly have to smack in order for the colors to re-align....

I am sure I will have questions, concerns and the like and hope I can obtain some support here. Now I just have to pick it up tomorrow and begin the installation and conversion!

Welcome aboard zettler.

I'm new here so I hope this is an ok place to ask about a 52Z575. I bought this set in June of 2005 and just recently got a HDMI player. HDMI looks great except sometimes in really flat scenes, it seems to outline the contour bands with darker colors than the bands (almost like a wood grain). I do not see this when I connect with component. Also when I connect the player with HDMI to a friends set, it looks fine. It's almost as if the 52Z575 is altering the digital input.

Is this a common artifact for these D-ILA Z sets? Or is there something wrong with my set.

I'm new here so I hope this is an ok place to ask about a 52Z575. I bought this set in June of 2005 and just recently got a HDMI player. HDMI looks great except sometimes in really flat scenes, it seems to outline the contour bands with darker colors than the bands (almost like a wood grain). I do not see this when I connect with component. Also when I connect the player with HDMI to a friends set, it looks fine. It's almost as if the 52Z575 is altering the digital input.

Is this a common artifact for these D-ILA Z sets? Or is there something wrong with my set.
Sounds to me like "macroblocking" maybe? I noticed this on my 52z as well.

Sounds to me like "macroblocking" maybe? I noticed this on my 52z as well.

Hi darthrsg.

Could the 52z cause macroblocking? I don't see it on other HDMI capable sets using the same player. I could post a picture of the artifact and another of the much better picture I get using the component inputs. It's really odd because most of the time HDMI looks great, but get a low contrast scene and there it is: color bands that are separated by darker lines.

If it is just an inherit problem with these model sets, then I'll give up. But if it something that just needs adjustment...

Please post some pics.

After 4 calls to 4 techs, the last advised JVC lamps were not made to JVC specs until after 11/2005. They had a lot of early lamp failures - same troubleshooting as "internal wiring" - both blue and orange blinking simultaneously, only I had heard a crackling pop when the bulb exploded inside its protective lens.
After 8 days I am still waiting on my overnite warranty replacement. Be careful ordering the "cheap lamps" from Discount Merchant Electronics that come without the JVC brown box and instructions - they say they bought up JVC oversupply. Obviously JVC hasn't had enough lamps to send me one and any oversupply might be the known defective lamps that blow in first 180 days......
Wouldn't an ethical firm had sent out a product recall notice and sent a new lamp to every registered owner??? Product has been great otherwise, but .......

Sorry to hear about your lamp problems.

My lamp went out on May 19, at about 3200 hours since last May 27. I ordered a new lamp that night, then went out of town, hoping that I'd receive the new lamp by the time I returned. As it turns out, the lamp shipped sooner than indicated and was delivered last Friday to my neighbor (I'm still out of town).

Basically, it was one week from blowing to replacement just ordering through the JVC website. I'd think that it shouldn't take 8 days to overnight a lamp.

I hope that gets straightened out for you.

Please post some pics.

I haven't uploaded pics before, so I hope this works...

Ok, here are some examples. The first is a cloud scene that looks good with component and looks badly contoured with HDMI. Same source, just selected different input to set. The third is a good example of the artifact that seems to show up on quite often on low contrast walls.

Note that I stretched the contrast and increased the brightness of these pictures on my computer to make the artifact stand out. It's not quite this bad in real life.

What's the source?

Sure looks like macroblocking to me. Sometimes I see MB on my 56G from satellite broadcasts, but also my Samsung 941 produces MB when I play DVDs.
esteps

I haven't uploaded pics before, so I hope this works...

Ok, here are some examples. The first is a cloud scene that looks good with component and looks badly contoured with HDMI. Same source, just selected different input to set. The third is a good example of the artifact that seems to show up on quite often on low contrast walls.

danole.....

I had the exact same problem your describing when I owned this JVC

Mated with a Sony 3100Es DVD player, HDMI looked like macroblocking, but through component the same source looked fine..........

looks like compression artifacts to me...

My understanding is that unless you have an HD DVD player playing an HD DVD, using HDMI will not improve the picture quality. Component is as good as it gets with Standard DVD's.

The source is a movie beam player. It plays HD and upconverted SD off an internal harddrive. The reason I think my 52z575 hdmi is at fault is that I see an excellent picture when other HDMI displays are used. It seems to be only my set. I've been tempted to go into a video store and try another JVC and see if the same thing happens.

bignorm - you say you had a similar problem? Did you resolve it? Hopefully not by getting a different tv.

Huh! I don't know Danole.

Please forgive a newby but I am just getting my set up and running now that I FINALLY have a remote (The manager at Best Buy wouldn't give me one even AFTER the supervisors said it came with the open box - but that is another story).

I have downloaded the manual and have actually got a TV picture from our Insight Cable and a simple DVD player!

Now before I go off and finally open my DVD Video Essentials that I bought nearly a decade ago and try and "tune-up" the picture, what are the feelings here about DVD players for the current slate of movies on DVD (read that not-HDDVD)?

I have way too many DVD's and want to watch them in the best possible light I can but the JVC Progressive Scan might not be the one.

I caught a thread on Anandtech about the Toshiba Upconverting DVD Player with HDMI Output and how then someone threw in about the OPPO DV-970HD and the like before I ran over here to see what you all were using or recomended...

I know, I know, I need to spend some time setting the HD-ILA 52G786 to where the picture is satisfactory but that will take some time after all the hundred or so posts I have read in this thread!

Once again, please forgive my interuption but I bought this TV primarily to watch my DVD collection and now I discover I need a new player - DUH!!!!!

Thank you in advance for your assistance and consideration!

PS I wish there was a primer (web based) for this particular TV!

Zettler,

Most folks 'round here like the oppo player. I don't have an upconverting player myself but my $90 Pioneer kicks ass with the best of the regular players. I have used my pc to upconvert some dvds and it depends on the disc itself if the difference is noticeable. My 4 cents.

As for a primer, You are looking at it :D .

Try these


http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=547602

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=423390

I haven't done any comparisons between upconverting and progressive scan DVD players, but I am satisfied watching movies on my TV using a progressive scan player. The JVC TV upconverts the signal to its native resolution, so all you are doing with an upconverting player is having the player do the upconverting before the signal gets to the TV. Most people seem to think that the JVC does a pretty good job and you don't need an upconverting player. But if you spend some time in the DVD threads you will see lots and lots of advice.

Anyone taken the screen off of a "Z" model? I am curious as to how to do it, I would like to clean the mirror.

I adjusted my pic last week using Avia, yet when I switched from DVD to TV, all the settings were different, even though both are coming through the same G886 input....I'm feeding everything though my receiver. So, the adjustments I made using Avia were totally useless for TV watching. Can anyone explain? Is there a solution?

If I understand you correctly, you want to use the calibration you performed with your DVD player for TV as well. Ideally you should calibrate for each source as cable boxes, sat. receivers, DVD players, D-VHS Decks, etc. can and do output color, brightness, contrast, etc. at different levels. However, calibrating for the output of stuff like cable boxes can be impractical.

From what I understand, the TV stores the menu settings for things like detail, tint, brightness, etc. per video status and resolution (might actually be scan freq.). For example the settings for "Standard" @ 1080i, "Standard" @ 720p, and "Dynamic" @ 720p can all be different.

I assume what's happening in your scenario is that the DVD player is outputting lets say 480p and the TV source is outputting something like 1080i so when you look at the menu settings on the TV they are different.

The simple solution is to set the JVC settings the same as the DVD player settings and tweak per your eye from there.

Got home last night and noticed how dark my picture was, thought to myself bulb getting ready to go out. I dig out my spare and put it in, presto, like new picture. :D I call JVC tech support explain what happened, they take my number and tell me a tech will call back 2-3 days to finish the service call. Tech calls me this morning, I explain how the picture was very dark and by putting in my backup blub (purchased from JVC) that fixed the problem. He says, no problem, verifies my address and says he's shipping out a replacement bulb and I should have it by Tuesday. As a note the tech confirmed that bulbs manufactured prior to 1/06 didn't have the life span they expected and a bulb should last 4000-6000 hours.

Overall - easy to deal with, no hassles, quick response, bulb didn't need to be blown to get replaced. :D