Thanks Ktulu_1! I get it, but it seems that if all Avia can do is help me calibrate for DVD viewing, then it's not as useful as I'd hoped it would be.

For any of you who think JVC is the only one with 'lamp' issues, take a look here;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=686490

Got home last night and noticed how dark my picture was, thought to myself bulb getting ready to go out. I dig out my spare and put it in, presto, like new picture. :D I call JVC tech support explain what happened, they take my number and tell me a tech will call back 2-3 days to finish the service call. Tech calls me this morning, I explain how the picture was very dark and by putting in my backup blub (purchased from JVC) that fixed the problem. He says, no problem, verifies my address and says he's shipping out a replacement bulb and I should have it by Tuesday. As a note the tech confirmed that bulbs manufactured prior to 1/06 didn't have the life span they expected and a bulb should last 4000-6000 hours.

Overall - easy to deal with, no hassles, quick response, bulb didn't need to be blown to get replaced. :D

Update - Received my new lamp from JVC on Monday, a day earlier than promised. :D Also, after I installed my new lamp I took the menu option to reset the lamp timer and then looked at the service menu (option 4) #70 & #71, #70 had reset back to zero, but #71 did not. On other posts people said that #70 was *256 and then add #71 to the sum, (I think I've got that correct). The fact that #71 did not reset to zero makes me question the validity of the formula.

Mine didn't look like it reset either, but the next time I checked it was starting over. Might take a power cycle or something.

Thanks, I'll check it again tonight. :D

When I replaced my almost burned out bulb, I took note of the time displayed on those 2 registers because JVC wanted the hours for Quality Control purposes. I then reset the register, turned off the set, replaced the bulb and when I turned it back on, both were at "0". 52g786

I saw where this was asked by someone before but found no answer to the question. I have the HDG786 model and am wanting to connect my laptop to the TV via Firewire to view my laptop content on the 56" screen. When I plugged in the ilink cable to my laptop it detected a monitor/tuner but could not locate the proper drivers to make it work... are these somewhere or is there a proper procedure for making this work? I realize I could just use the VGA but Id much rather prefer using the Ilink. Thanks!

Just picked mine up last week and was delivered on sat. Paid $2300 (incl. delivery). BB price matched this one from 6th Ave in NJ (they sell for 1999.98) but for $100 more.

PS: the stand was free with the Unit.

First impressions

1. Watched the World Cup Football - Awesome. the details were great
2. Watch teh US Open Golf. the PQ was excellent
3. Watched Narnia with my daughter - Again with no Upconversion the PQ was good.. Plan to buy a HDMI Upconverting player.. considering RCA 8060N

UPDATE

Actually called into JVC Support Line and they told me i dont need a upconverting player as the TV does it anyway... :cool: :cool:

Foot in my mouth for saying saw Narnia without upconversion when i was actually seeing it upconverted!? :o :o

Just picked mine up last week and was delivered on sat. Paid $2300 (incl. delivery). BB price matched this one from 6th Ave in NJ (they sell for 1999.98) but for $100 more.

PS: the stand was free with the Unit.

First impressions

1. Watched the World Cup Football - Awesome. the details were great
2. Watch teh US Open Golf. the PQ was excellent
3. Watched Narnia with my daughter - Again with no Upconversion the PQ was good.. Plan to buy a HDMI Upconverting player.. considering RCA 8060N
What is your source for HD?

What is your source for HD?

HD Cable Box from Cablevision.....

I saw where this was asked by someone before but found no answer to the question. I have the HDG786 model and am wanting to connect my laptop to the TV via Firewire to view my laptop content on the 56" screen. When I plugged in the ilink cable to my laptop it detected a monitor/tuner but could not locate the proper drivers to make it work... are these somewhere or is there a proper procedure for making this work? I realize I could just use the VGA but Id much rather prefer using the Ilink. Thanks!

This is really tricky... You need the "Tuner AV/C Device" driver for this.. check this link for the Motorola 6412 which worked for me on the motorola unit.. i am yet to test it on the TV.. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=403695

It might work.. Good Luck

UPDATE

check this one out http://www.1394ta.org/About/products/consumer_products.html#Televisions

It says your model is i.link compliant hmmmm...

This is really tricky... You need the "Tuner AV/C Device" driver for this.. check this link for the Motorola 6412 which worked for me on the motorola unit.. i am yet to test it on the TV.. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=403695

It might work.. Good Luck

UPDATE

check this one out http://www.1394ta.org/About/products/consumer_products.html#Televisions

It says your model is i.link compliant hmmmm...



Thanx for the info and links Madrascafe... That file download is just for Windows Media Center platforms but I managed to extract the drivers from the .msi file regardless (I'm running XP Professional on my laptop). The AV/C monitor hardware would still not discover the driver, HOWEVER the AV/C Tuner hardware that was found located the appropriate driver and then asked for a reboot. Well, I reboot and nothing happens pretty much... bummer, yes.

Nothing shows under the I.Link menu of the tv (in fact the option is dimmed despite being turned on) Maybe I dont get the whole reason for this i.Link business... I mean, I understand its mainly for cameras but why wouldnt it do audio/video from a laptop where I could view my laptop screen on the TV? I guess there's always the VGA plug but then there's no audio so I'd have to run that to the receiver and that would just be a tangled mess. Am i missing something here or am I just doing something thats not doable w/ this equipment? Thanks!

PS: Im still looking for some good HD56G786 settings from various people just so I can play around w/ the picture. Here's my current setup

Standard display mode
Picture -5
Bright +3
Detail -20
Color Temp: Low
Dig. Noise Clear: Low
Color Managment: On
Dynamic Gamma: Off
Smart Picture: Off

Original Lamp is burning at ~775 hrs FYI

What is your source for HD?

Was wondering the same thing. The US open on my 52g886 kinda sucked (Boston Comcast). ESPN2 coverage of the soccer games looks great though as did the Dallas/Miami game Sunday night on ABC.

Was wondering the same thing. The US open on my 52g886 kinda sucked (Boston Comcast). ESPN2 coverage of the soccer games looks great though as did the Dallas/Miami game Sunday night on ABC.
I have the evil D* as source...

Was wondering the same thing. The US open on my 52g886 kinda sucked (Boston Comcast). ESPN2 coverage of the soccer games looks great though as did the Dallas/Miami game Sunday night on ABC.


In my assessment the best is FOX & ABC/ESPN.. NBC is so so and CBS is the worst..

Yet to check out TNT HD.. have heard that it is good..

Reg. sources is it an urban myth or what.. that satellite is better than cable..

In my assessment the best is FOX & ABC/ESPN.. NBC is so so and CBS is the worst..

Yet to check out TNT HD.. have heard that it is good..

Reg. sources is it an urban myth or what.. that satellite is better than cable..
Whole 'notha can of worms my friend...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=671445

Lamp blew Sunday, called JVC Monday morning and received new lamp today (wednesday) under warranty. After reading all the complaints about lamps wanted to post some positive news about JVC customer service.

I also bought a spare thinking it would take weeks to get my warranty replacement. Paid for it on Monday, was shipped on Monday and at my house on wednesday.

http://www.discount-merchant.com/JVC-LCD-Projection-TV-Lamp-TS-CL110UAA-TS-CL110U-p/jvc-ts-cl110uaa-new-1.htm

Although it does seem to be a 3rd party manufactured lamp it worked just as well as the one I got from JVC (don't know if it will last as long or not). And it was cheaper than I could find anywhere else ($155.01 inc s/h and tax). It seems to work well but I did have to take the screw pins off of the blown lamp as it did not come with that hardware.

I read this in the manual and anybody here who can tell what can be done with this?

http://software.jvc.com/opensource/lnx/DP/05_AtscQam/download.html

Some more

This is a PC Based software in Japan Site.. Not sure if this can be used with this Unit

http://www.jvc-victor.co.jp/english/download/hd2k_gamma/index.html - Gamma Customization

http://www.jvc-victor.co.jp/english/download/hd10k_gamma/index.html - Gamma Correction

Decision time - 55" D-ILA (Gx86) vs. 60" Grand Wega (A20).

Costco has both of these sets, the Wega is about $800 more, both include a stand.

Is the Wega & 5" worth the extra cost?

It's going into a family room and will mostly be used for movies/TV/sports.

Thanks in advance!

I certainly don't think so, but that's why I chose a JVC. BTW, the JVC is 56", so you're only talking a 4" difference.

COSTCO version is 55" .... anyway, I agree with deanbrew, it is especially true since A20 is a "lesser" model than A10. I was torn between JVC and A10 ... I ended up with JVC's 52G787.

BTW, IMREF, if you decision to buy from COSTCO is due to their more / very relax return policy to members, then go for it. But hope that you do know COSTCO's JVS is a stripped down version of x86, and such as their 55" is not available in the retail market ... etc... Just make sure that you're aware of this before you make a decison.

Happy shopping.



I certainly don't think so, but that's why I chose a JVC. BTW, the JVC is 56", so you're only talking a 4" difference.

Sorry, I just assumed he meant the 56" JVC. I wasn't aware that they made a special model for Costco.

Yeah.. it is confusing ... guess this is what JVC regarded as "special market" products... I think the same 55" is also found in Sam's Club, they also come with less connectivity than retail models.

But their return policy (what policy? :D) is really attractive vs buying from dealers... anyway, all depands on our priority, and each of it's own :)

Sorry, I just assumed he meant the 56" JVC. I wasn't aware that they made a special model for Costco.)

Is the Wega & 5" worth the extra cost?

It's going into a family room and will mostly be used for movies/TV/sports.

Thanks in advance!
If the Wega is the Sony LCD projection TV, then the JVC is much the better choice. A neighbour has the Grand Wega 60" The screen door effect is noticeable on his Sony and the picture isn't nearly as bright as the JVC. If you can, try to see both sets side by side in the shop. There's no comparison. On the other hand, if the Sony you're talking about is their version of LCOS technology, the SXRD I think, then I would definitely go for it since I think it's picture is superior to JVC's. However, in most stores the Sony costs way more than the JVC, which is why I have the JVC.

i am assuming you are not referring to the SXRD proj TVs from Sony. If thats the case then the JVC is hands down better as they use a LCOS chip... I have a 6" JVC and went thro a lot of research then finally went in for the JVC. the $1000 price diff in my case vis.a.vis 61" JVC & 61" Sony XBR(SXRD) was too tempting..

i am assuming you are not referring to the SXRD proj TVs from Sony. If thats the case then the JVC is hands down better as they use a LCOS chip... I have a 6" JVC and went thro a lot of research then finally went in for the JVC. the $1000 price diff in my case vis.a.vis 61" JVC & 61" Sony XBR(SXRD) was too tempting..
The SXRD projection TV's from Sony also use LCOS technology. JVC and Sony are the only two manufacturers that use this technology and the consensus is that the Sony is better, but a whole lot more expensive.

The SXRD projection TV's from Sony also use LCOS technology. JVC and Sony are the only two manufacturers that use this technology and the consensus is that the Sony is better, but a whole lot more expensive.
Ha! Not to spiral this thread toward fanboy hell, but, Sony sells quite a bit more sets than JVC so the consensus is skewed. I spent much time debating between SXRD A10s and the JVC sets, JVC delivered a better pic IMHO. Less money doesn't hurt either. I own a 'Z series as I purchased right before the SXRD hit and haven't regretted too much except the service JVC offers on its warranty. The issues I am having are similar to the issues A10 owners have had also. Side by side is the only way to compare any set despite what you read here at the 'World Famous House of TV".

The SXRD projection TV's from Sony also use LCOS technology. JVC and Sony are the only two manufacturers that use this technology and the consensus is that the Sony is better, but a whole lot more expensive.

My Bad... What i meant to say was if the Sony model he was choosing was not a SXRD one then the JVC is a hands down winner..

My Bad... What i meant to say was if the Sony model he was choosing was not a SXRD one then the JVC is a hands down winner..
Couldn't agree more with what you meant to say.

Hi folks, thanks for the great comments. As I noted in my first post, my decision was between the A20 Grand Wega (not SXRD) and the 55" LCOS D-ILA JVC from Costco. I'm not really hell-bent on buying the thing from Costco, but I figured their prices are always difficult to beat.

What are the connectivity differences between the Costco 55" and the 56" D-ILA from the big-box retailers?

This is somewhat off topic but a couple people here at work were telling me about Costco's return policy. Something about being able to return defective items whenever (read years) as long as you have the receipt and original box. Anybody know the real details? This could be prudent in the purchase of an item as costly as a RPTV.

I can't recall 100% of what I read in the past, suggest you to doa search (on this thread) based on "COSTCO" and you should find those posts talking about it. If memory serves:

1. 1" smaller :D
2. one less HDMI
3. no serial port

but then again .. my memory has been fading ... :rolleyes:

Hi folks, thanks for the great comments. As I noted in my first post, my decision was between the A20 Grand Wega (not SXRD) and the 55" LCOS D-ILA JVC from Costco. I'm not really hell-bent on buying the thing from Costco, but I figured their prices are always difficult to beat.

What are the connectivity differences between the Costco 55" and the 56" D-ILA from the big-box retailers?

Could anyone tell me the model # of the matching stand for the 70" D-ILA?

Thanks

I can't recall 100% of what I read in the past, suggest you to doa search (on this thread) based on "COSTCO" and you should find those posts talking about it. If memory serves:

1. 1" smaller :D
2. one less HDMI
3. no serial port

but then again .. my memory has been fading ... :rolleyes:


One less HDMI port would mean none on my HD56G786. That would suck.

Hey ... I can be wrong....

One less HDMI port would mean none on my HD56G786. That would suck.

Decision time - 55" D-ILA (Gx86) vs. 60" Grand Wega (A20).

Costco has both of these sets, the Wega is about $800 more, both include a stand.

Is the Wega & 5" worth the extra cost?

It's going into a family room and will mostly be used for movies/TV/sports.

Thanks in advance!

check out BB before you make the call.. they have JVC 56" on sale now for $2400 with the stand.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7699001&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03006&id=1138084693793

Hey ... I can be wrong....


:D

check out BB before you make the call.. they have JVC 56" on sale now for $2400 with the stand.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7699001&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03006&id=1138084693793

Price now says $2,339.99

Price now says $2,339.99


:D :D :D

This is somewhat off topic but a couple people here at work were telling me about Costco's return policy. Something about being able to return defective items whenever (read years) as long as you have the receipt and original box. Anybody know the real details? This could be prudent in the purchase of an item as costly as a RPTV.


Yes you can return a item even a TV that is either defective or does not satisfy you, this is true for everything they sell other than desktop or laptop PCs which have a limited return time of 6 months. No, you do not need to keep the box around forever for a return. You only need to visit one of their stores or their website for the terms of their satisfaction guarantee policy.

1 week ago sales price for this 56" was 2299 (with stand) + free wine cooler.

Same package for 52" was ~$2000



check out BB before you make the call.. they have JVC 56"

on sale now for $2400 with the stand.
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7699001&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03006&id=1138084693793

(Hi ... I have a 52G787, but I wonder if anyone here on x86 has experienced the same and know how to fix it .. afterall, x86 and x87 are very similar. TIA)

Guys, every now & then I lost the audio from the SAT -- no sound coming out from it, but if I'd switch to OTA feed then switch back to SAT, then everything is fine.

Anyone experienced the same or know how to fix this symptom for good?

My connection as follow:

SAT (DishNetwork model ViP 211): HDMI => TV (input = Digital 1)
OTA feed: Antenna => TV (input =TV)
VCR/DVD, etc..: source => Receiver => TV (V1 Smart, Video 1)

Looks like a problem sometimes reported by other 211 owners. See DBSTalk.com.
esteps

(Hi ... I have a 52G787, but I wonder if anyone here on x86 has experienced the same and know how to fix it .. afterall, x86 and x87 are very similar. TIA)

Guys, every now & then I lost the audio from the SAT -- no sound coming out from it, but if I'd switch to OTA feed then switch back to SAT, then everything is fine.

Anyone experienced the same or know how to fix this symptom for good?

My connection as follow:

SAT (DishNetwork model ViP 211): HDMI => TV (input = Digital 1)
OTA feed: Antenna => TV (input =TV)
VCR/DVD, etc..: source => Receiver => TV (V1 Smart, Video 1)

Hey guys/gals, I was wondering if some of you could post your settings for use with the Xbox 360? Also pay a visit to the Xbox area of AVS for likeminded Gamertags and a thread to post pics of your 360 setups.

Hey guys/gals, I was wondering if some of you could post your settings for use with the Xbox 360? Also pay a visit to the Xbox area of AVS for likeminded Gamertags and a thread to post pics of your 360 setups.

Fiddled forever with settings and experienced a high amount ov vid noise.

Latest settings for all use (incl 360)

tint 0
color 0
pic -5
bright +3
detail +20
color low
noise filter high
color mgt on
gamma on
smart pic on

I know thees settings look a bit weird and could be that being in a condo with 34 other units degrades signal quality-notsure.

chaz

Thanks Chaz.

Re: JVC 56G886
Well, it finally happened to me. Last night my lamp died, with 1900 hours (two weeks before the one-year warranty ends).
The local Tech says he will order a new ballast along with a lamp. At least the warranty covers everything.
esteps

Diagnosis needed-

Turned on set today and "cablecard inserted" menu came on screen (usually doesn't) then the pic an sound came on. When I went to change the channel, the screen was blank. I don't think it was the lamp (replaced in January) because the screen wasn't black, just blank. I couldn't change channels or switch inputs with either the remote OR the TV's buttons. Then I couldn't turn it off using either method. Had to pull the plug (believe me it hurt to do so knowing the lamp had no fan down time). Anyone experience this or know what it might be. I'm going out and will check again later tonight after lamp is room temp.

Thanks.

Also posted in JVC bulb loss experience thread

edit set is 52g886

"The local Tech says he will order a new ballast along with a lamp"

WHat's the ballast?
Rob

Diagnosis needed-

Turned on set today and "cablecard inserted" menu came on screen (usually doesn't) then the pic an sound came on. When I went to change the channel, the screen was blank. I don't think it was the lamp (replaced in January) because the screen wasn't black, just blank. I couldn't change channels or switch inputs with either the remote OR the TV's buttons. Then I couldn't turn it off using either method. Had to pull the plug (believe me it hurt to do so knowing the lamp had no fan down time). Anyone experience this or know what it might be. I'm going out and will check again later tonight after lamp is room temp.

Thanks.

Also posted in JVC bulb loss experience thread

edit set is 52g886

Set fixed itself by unplugging. Came home after about 7 hours and fired it up, worked fine. Weird!!! Hopefully not a sign of things to come.

Well, its got something to do with the electrical circuit I'll find out more when he installs it.
esteps

"The local Tech says he will order a new ballast along with a lamp"

WHat's the ballast?
Rob

Set fixed itself by unplugging. Came home after about 7 hours and fired it up, worked fine. Weird!!! Hopefully not a sign of things to come.
The same thing has happened to me a couple times lately. ( I have the same set) The screen is just blank, and no controls work, remote or front switch. Unplugging briefly solves the problem whatever it is. It can't be power flucuations as I run my set thru an APC su1400net UPS. Hopefully it is not a symtom of something worse to come.

I had this happen once in the 11 months I have owned my 56G. The JVC manual says it is a possible microprocessor malfunction and to unplug and reinsert the plug. It is like rebooting a computer.
esteps

The same thing has happened to me a couple times lately. ( I have the same set) The screen is just blank, and no controls work, remote or front switch. Unplugging briefly solves the problem whatever it is. It can't be power flucuations as I run my set thru an APC su1400net UPS. Hopefully it is not a symtom of something worse to come.

Hello All,

Can someone be so kind as to give me a brief description of what the following terms are and how I can check to make sure I am not experiencing issues with any of the following on my 61z886?

De-interlacing

Motion artifacts

Convergence

CA

i had that happen to me probably 4 times in the 4 months i owned the 56g. i guessed that the cable company was makin changes that confused the set. i swapped out the 56g for a 56fh & it handles the cable irregularities better. the screen will go blank on power up (not off) & hitting the power button will get the 'motorola pod inserted' message & return to normal. firmware update maybe ?

referring to 2 posts above, also hooked into an ups.

Hello All,

Can someone be so kind as to give me a brief description of what the following terms are and how I can check to make sure I am not experiencing issues with any of the following on my 61z886?

De-interlacing

Motion artifacts

Convergence

CA


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deinterlacing

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_artifacts

http://www.ovationmultimedia.com/avia_calibrations.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chromatic_Abberation

Hello Again,

I know that this has been posted numerous times in this thread however hoping that someone can make it easy for me and post what the general consensus is on whether or not I should use Color Management, Dynamic Gamma and Smart Picture, and why?

Thanks!

I just had to post that I have had a JVC HD-61Z786 for about 3 months now...and I am glad I didn't buy any other TV for the price. Everyone that stops by is amazed at the picture, especially HD channels. Not even 1 problem so far! Can anyone suggest a good but cheap Battery Backup in case of power failure?

Hello Again,

I know that this has been posted numerous times in this thread however hoping that someone can make it easy for me and post what the general consensus is on whether or not I should use Color Management, Dynamic Gamma and Smart Picture, and why?

Thanks!
I use color management but not the rest. As to why, after playing with Avia/DVE it looks better to me to have those off. Trust your eyes.

I use color management but not the rest. As to why, after playing with Avia/DVE it looks better to me to have those off. Trust your eyes.

Thank you!

Also is it reccomended I use Standard as opposed to Theatre, etc..? And should I go into the service menu and tweak colors there? I really dont want to do that if I dont have to for fear of making my situation worse....

Thank you!

Also is it reccomended I use Standard as opposed to Theatre, etc..? And should I go into the service menu and tweak colors there? I really dont want to do that if I dont have to for fear of making my situation worse....
On my Z I prefer standard, theater is too red/yellow. Again these are my prefs gleaned from this thread and trial and error. You might PM a user called KidRed he may have some other helpful advice. The only adjustments I have made in the service menu were to RGB drives, there are white level and black level adjustments in there too but they really just impact the "play" you have in the user menu.

I saw a 720p DILA set - JVC HD527BP7 from Bestbuy. Is this the thread I'd ask impressions and advice on purchase in? Would that model coorespond to the Gx86 line or am I asking in the wrong place?

Thank you in advance.

I saw a 720p DILA set - JVC HD527BP7 from Bestbuy. Is this the thread I'd ask impressions and advice on purchase in? Would that model coorespond to the Gx86 line or am I asking in the wrong place?

Thank you in advance.
This is a great plave to start, I have no knowledge of that set but I own a Z model.

I saw a 720p DILA set - JVC HD527BP7 from Bestbuy. Is this the thread I'd ask impressions and advice on purchase in? Would that model coorespond to the Gx86 line or am I asking in the wrong place?

Thank you in advance.

I think that is the HD52Gx86 set with stand. It seems JVC bundles the TV and stand together for Best Buy and gives it a different part number. I think you'll find the TV has the HD52Gx86 model number on the back.

Thanks. I'll take a look next time I'm there.

Boy this thread was long. I started reading last night from the first page. It's like an epic.


I think that is the HD52Gx86 set with stand. It seems JVC bundles the TV and stand together for Best Buy and gives it a different part number. I think you'll find the TV has the HD52Gx86 model number on the back.

That's what I bought last month .. it is indeed the G787 with Stand. There is an Owner thread on Gx87, do drop by :-)

I saw a 720p DILA set - JVC HD527BP7 from Bestbuy. Is this the thread I'd ask impressions and advice on purchase in? Would that model coorespond to the Gx86 line or am I asking in the wrong place?

Thank you in advance.

This thread or a different one you mean? If different would you be able to link me to it or PM with the link? Thanks in advance.

In summarizing the thread

1. If I think of the bulb as a replaceable part that I will change like a regular light bulb
2. If SD isn't quite the best looking in the HD sets
3. The free stand is not worth keeping.
4. Understanding the above I'll be happy with the JVC or other newer microdisplay sets.
5. If I want to have good SD go back to CRT


Wagon Man, did you get a seperate stand or are using the free one?


That's what I bought last month .. it is indeed the G787 with Stand. There is an Owner thread on Gx87, do drop by :-)

Well fellow owners my JVC gets returned tomorrow for an exchange. I will be the owner of a Sony A20, I would have liked the A10 but my dealer doesn't stock them.

The 52 inch Z model JVC I had was just not getting the attention it deserved. I have been after JVC for 7 months to replace my light engine to no avail. After a call to my dealer corporate HQ they authorized a refund. I did have to wait until the factory warranty expired which was this past Monday.

The funny thing was after I got the refund the repair shop called to say they just heard from JVC to authorize repair. I hope this doesn't discourage any future owners I really loved my D-ila but JVC support was 'teh suck'.

I consider the A20 an equal set with better blacks than the JVC(which aren't horrible), I know it has its limitations also.

Everyone in the owners thread has been extremely helpful and I hope to be able to contribute help if possible in the future. If my dealer had carried JVC still I would have gotten another. JVC does have agood handle on LCOS in general and their newer sets are kicking much ass I just got a lemon.

Rex, my dealer, has been above and beyond on their service. The set just rolled over a year and they happily refunded my purchase price. Don't overlook them as dealers.

Calico: I stick with my 16 yr old granite stand, the JVC "freebie" is still in box. I prefer my old stand coz I have more components than the JVC stand can hold, just the Surround is too tall for the JVC is designed for.

The G*87 thread is here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=666621 but this thread has have more collective info than the G*87 thread (obviously I come here too :D )

As for SD is concern, I guess it all depands on which CRT is your comparing with ... I bought this JVC to replace my ~20 yrs old 27" Pioneer CRT... which is no longer better than I'm watching SD with this 52" 720P. But if you have a Sony 32" XRB (CRT) than of course, you can conclude that "CRT is WAY better".

btw, as soon as I've "tasted" the HD feed, there is ABSOLUTELY no turning back :D

I'm very happy with my purchase.


This thread or a different one you mean? If different would you be able to link me to it or PM with the link? Thanks in advance.

In summarizing the thread

1. If I think of the bulb as a replaceable part that I will change like a regular light bulb
2. If SD isn't quite the best looking in the HD sets
3. The free stand is not worth keeping.
4. Understanding the above I'll be happy with the JVC or other newer microdisplay sets.
5. If I want to have good SD go back to CRT


Wagon Man, did you get a seperate stand or are using the free one?

Ok. I got my replacement tv from jvc on wednesday. The only thing I did was go and change the red drive value from 128 to 110 and green from 128 to 126. Now my TV input is not getting any red drive. All other inputs work great except the same damn TV input with my digital cable. Seems as though it happens only after doing the drive settings. This is pathetic as it is unwatchable if you keep the drives at the factory settings out of the box. There must be some simple thing to fix this or it is a MAJOR flaw in their parts. What do I do. This is frustrating. I have spent way too much time trying to get them to swap this one out. Took them 2 months after going through many phone calls and countless hours faxing and then having them tell me they never got the faxes and stuff I sent registered even though I have proof of it. JVC sucks bigtime as far as I am concerned.

I just hope there is somone who could explain what is happening. JVC doesnt have a clue. THey said they have never heard of the TV input going green. Heck I have had it happen 5 times now.

I even tried the hdmi reset procedure and didn't change a thing.

Was at a friends house about 6 months ago, watching the Orlando Magic in their "green" uniforms. Mentioned to others that I did not know the Magic had green uniforms and all I had ever seen was blue or white. Upon further investigation, he was feeding his TV with component? cables from his digital cable box. I checked to see if perhaps they were misrouted, they were not however after plugging them in again, the team had blue uniforms as suspected. Turned out the cable had a loose connection. Jiggling the cable from the digital box turned the uniforms green/blue even though the connections appeared tight. New cable solved the problem. Perhaps somthing similar could be causing this???

NO. Definitely not. It is only that one input. Even with nothing connected to the input it is green when it should be black. They have changed out 3 tuner boards on my one tv and now this is a different tv. Like I said all I did was change the red drive down 18 points and the green drive down 2 points. For some forsaken reason when the drives are changed it screwes up the tv tuner input, causing the red drive to not work on that input.

Have you tried OTA directly into the TV? Just a thought..

NO. Definitely not. It is only that one input. Even with nothing connected to the input it is green when it should be black. They have changed out 3 tuner boards on my one tv and now this is a different tv. Like I said all I did was change the red drive down 18 points and the green drive down 2 points. For some forsaken reason when the drives are changed it screwes up the tv tuner input, causing the red drive to not work on that input.

Doesn't make any difference. I have been through with this over the last 11 months.

And believe me I have tried everything. Those simple wire connection comments are not even close to what is happening here.

JVC said they can't figure it out. Trust me there is either a software glitch or a hardware glitch.

The screen is green with nothing hooked into that input. You hook it up to cable and you get a green drive and blue drive. Red drive is missing. I would be very surprised if anyone at JVC ever figures this one out. I know I am not the only one with this issue. There was another guy on here who had the same issue.

I hear ya Chip
My 61z786 got the green tv tuner issue after plugging in my new HDMI dvd player. The HDMI wasn't green, it was the high def tv tuner. Had the service guy replace the tuner - no fix, plus it turned my HDMI green and he didn't know how to fix that so I showed him the HDMI reset procedure myself :rolleyes:
He then ordered a new digital board (HDMI board i think) and that fixed it. :)

Now if only they could fix the slight misconvergence or CA or whatever it is I can't get right in the convergence menu.
And the bad black levels, etc. etc.

I hear ya Chip
My 61z786 got the green tv tuner issue after plugging in my new HDMI dvd player. The HDMI wasn't green, it was the high def tv tuner. Had the service guy replace the tuner - no fix, plus it turned my HDMI green and he didn't know how to fix that so I showed him the HDMI reset procedure myself :rolleyes:
He then ordered a new digital board (HDMI board i think) and that fixed it. :)

Now if only they could fix the slight misconvergence or CA or whatever it is I can't get right in the convergence menu.
And the bad black levels, etc. etc.


Yep I also have the whole screen is shifted off axis. About a 3 degree tilt. Very noticable on anything that has a bar on top or bottom. Oh and about 30 blue pixles showing up. In one spot there is cluster of them around 15 or so.

Just got off the phone with JVC. They tell me that it looks like they will end up replacing the entire guts of this set and see if that works. So this is getting expensive for jvc. I told them months ago that I would be willing to upgrade and pay the difference for the FH96 model and they said no way. I also told them in no way will I allow them to take my tv out of the house and run diagnostics on it and wait for them to ship a light engine and everything else to the center to be repaird. There is no reason for me to go this long with a non working set. This is just unbelievable. I told them this model has serious issues. I believe every component inside this set is just complete junk and is the cheapest of parts around.

I just wonder what recorse I have. They should just get me a brand new tv instead of getting me this refurbished crap that other people have had problems with.

Pawning off other peoples problematic tv's to other people with problematic tv's= JVC.

Well fellow owners my JVC gets returned tomorrow for an exchange. I will be the owner of a Sony A20, I would have liked the A10 but my dealer doesn't stock them.

The 52 inch Z model JVC I had was just not getting the attention it deserved. I have been after JVC for 7 months to replace my light engine to no avail. After a call to my dealer corporate HQ they authorized a refund. I did have to wait until the factory warranty expired which was this past Monday.

The funny thing was after I got the refund the repair shop called to say they just heard from JVC to authorize repair. I hope this doesn't discourage any future owners I really loved my D-ila but JVC support was 'teh suck'.

I consider the A20 an equal set with better blacks than the JVC(which aren't horrible), I know it has its limitations also.

Everyone in the owners thread has been extremely helpful and I hope to be able to contribute help if possible in the future. If my dealer had carried JVC still I would have gotten another. JVC does have agood handle on LCOS in general and their newer sets are kicking much ass I just got a lemon.

Rex, my dealer, has been above and beyond on their service. The set just rolled over a year and they happily refunded my purchase price. Don't overlook them as dealers.

You've been a helpful contributor to this thread abd will be missed. Enjoy and best of luck with the new set. I am still enjoying my 52g886 but if I were to go back in time, I would pick up a Sony CRT behomoth. The 34" XBR is looking good (even if the res is 960i?).

Chaz

I have a spare bulb, that I'll never use...

I have a spare bulb, that I'll never use...


Ship it my way. I have two spares and could use another. I figure 2 bulbs per year for me on this set.

How much? PM sent.

I have a spare bulb, that I'll never use...

Has it been determined yet if any of the Harmonys (and if so which ones(s)) and Sony Commanders can do direct video selecting for our JVC HDTV's? I have a Sony Commander RM-AV2000 that I adore and my wife is finally understanding but I broke it the other day so I'm now shopping for a new remote - either the same (or better) Sony or a Logitech Harmony. Within reason (<$150 via ebay), I want to select the remote that can not only do direct video source selecting but also can turn on and off the JVC HDTV via macros. My Sony is programmed to turn my receiver and TV off via a macro but NOT the TV on. It's weird. Anyone with proven remotes?

I have a spare bulb, that I'll never use...

Still have it?

Has it been determined yet if any of the Harmonys (and if so which ones(s)) and Sony Commanders can do direct video selecting for our JVC HDTV's? I have a Sony Commander RM-AV2000 that I adore and my wife is finally understanding but I broke it the other day so I'm now shopping for a new remote - either the same (or better) Sony or a Logitech Harmony. Within reason (<$150 via ebay), I want to select the remote that can not only do direct video source selecting but also can turn on and off the JVC HDTV via macros. My Sony is programmed to turn my receiver and TV off via a macro but NOT the TV on. It's weird. Anyone with proven remotes?
Harmony 880 worked like a charm on my Z model.

The One For All 8910 ($20) has advanced discrete codes for all the inputs and on/off.
esteps

Has it been determined yet if any of the Harmonys (and if so which ones(s)) and Sony Commanders can do direct video selecting for our JVC HDTV's? I have a Sony Commander RM-AV2000 that I adore and my wife is finally understanding but I broke it the other day so I'm now shopping for a new remote - either the same (or better) Sony or a Logitech Harmony. Within reason (<$150 via ebay), I want to select the remote that can not only do direct video source selecting but also can turn on and off the JVC HDTV via macros. My Sony is programmed to turn my receiver and TV off via a macro but NOT the TV on. It's weird. Anyone with proven remotes?

MR GQ,

I recommend the Belkin 1500VA Dual Form Factor Small Enterprise UPS with AVR
(MPN: F6C1500TWRK). It can be had for less than $150 online. It can be horizontally racked or stand vertical with the included stand. I have purchased this model for work with good success. When the little APC BK350 on my JVC dies I'll get one of these. It has lots of battery backup plug ins and also claims to do line conditioning. With my APC I can only plug the TV, PC, and my DVR into battery backup and my surround sound is plugged into surge protection only side. Annoying to have the surround sound shut off while everything else stays on during a power blip.

The only complaint I have seen on the Belkin is that it does not have quite as long a battery run time as it should for a 1500VA unit. But that is from people using it for servers in a commercial environment. For carrying your AV equipment through short power interruptions or giving you time to shut everything down (and in the case of your TV cool down) it will be more than sufficient.

I just had to post that I have had a JVC HD-61Z786 for about 3 months now...and I am glad I didn't buy any other TV for the price. Everyone that stops by is amazed at the picture, especially HD channels. Not even 1 problem so far! Can anyone suggest a good but cheap Battery Backup in case of power failure?

Has it been determined yet if any of the Harmonys (and if so which ones(s)) and Sony Commanders can do direct video selecting for our JVC HDTV's? I have a Sony Commander RM-AV2000 that I adore and my wife is finally understanding but I broke it the other day so I'm now shopping for a new remote - either the same (or better) Sony or a Logitech Harmony. Within reason (<$150 via ebay), I want to select the remote that can not only do direct video source selecting but also can turn on and off the JVC HDTV via macros. My Sony is programmed to turn my receiver and TV off via a macro but NOT the TV on. It's weird. Anyone with proven remotes?

The Harmony 880 works great for me. Does all the things you want except the <$150.

Based I've what I've read here it thought it would be a piece of cake, but when I hooked my PC (Thinkpad T40) to the JVC, it came up as 'improper signal." Then the Windows opening screen looked fine, but the TV failed to display my whole desktop...it was cut off on the left side, and the colors were horrible. I played with various resolutions (640X480, 1078(?)X?) and set the vertical scan to 60. No go. Any ideas??? Thanks.

Sweet, I will check it out. I am sad to say I think I jinxed myself on my last post... I knew it was going to happen! My bulb finally died.. last known calculation with estimate is around 2400 hours total... so not too shabby... HH Greg sent out a repair guy to replace the lamp... only took about 4 days... pretty good service from what I have read... now that the lamp is replaced its back to an amazing picture.. although I don't notice any more significant brightness to be honest?


MR GQ,

I recommend the Belkin 1500VA Dual Form Factor Small Enterprise UPS with AVR
(MPN: F6C1500TWRK). It can be had for less than $150 online. It can be horizontally racked or stand vertical with the included stand. I have purchased this model for work with good success. When the little APC BK350 on my JVC dies I'll get one of these. It has lots of battery backup plug ins and also claims to do line conditioning. With my APC I can only plug the TV, PC, and my DVR into battery backup and my surround sound is plugged into surge protection only side. Annoying to have the surround sound shut off while everything else stays on during a power blip.

The only complaint I have seen on the Belkin is that it does not have quite as long a battery run time as it should for a 1500VA unit. But that is from people using it for servers in a commercial environment. For carrying your AV equipment through short power interruptions or giving you time to shut everything down (and in the case of your TV cool down) it will be more than sufficient.

61" Z model....switched Comcast box to one with HDMI imput......Connected HDMI cable....and Sound but no Pic!! :eek: .....Any thoughts?.....By the way, works fine with component hook-up.....Thanks

61" Z model....switched Comcast box to one with HDMI imput......Connected HDMI cable....and Sound but no Pic!! :eek: .....Any thoughts?.....By the way, works fine with component hook-up.....Thanks

Probably on comcast's end but only had their DVI version and went dvi to hdmi. Ended up going with cablecard in my G series but may go back to the STB at some point if they get one that works well.

Clearly a "recycled" box....I noticed scratches on it after I removed the shrink-wrap....Are there any settings to change on the JVC....I looked thru the menu but nothing seemed relevant....

Clearly a "recycled" box....I noticed scratches on it after I removed the shrink-wrap....Are there any settings to change on the JVC....I looked thru the menu but nothing seemed relevant....

No, there is nothing to set to use the HDMI on the TV. I plugged my cable box into my JVC TV with the HDMI and it worked just fine. It works using either the component or HDMI jacks. So, you're going to have to do some troubleshooting. Either connect something else up with HDMI to see if your set is working, or plug your cable box into another TV with HDMI. I'm betting it's your cable box.

Thanks.....I tried it on another set and still no pic.....Comcast strikes again!! :mad:

Guys how are the stretch modes on the 786? Considering moving from a Toshiba that has really good ones.

We have the JVC HD52Z585. I seem to remember that someone posted that the overscan can be reduced on this set but I cannot find the post. Can anyone Help?

Thanks in advance and regards,

hi guys

i'm from the U.K :)

we have the JVC HD56ZR7J, can you please tell me which version this is i.e 2004, 3005, 2006.

http://www.jvc.co.uk/site/hd-ila/

i'm very impressed with this tv, but i've a tough decision to make; do i buy this or the 55'' SXRD

BUMP.........what no feedback!

Has it been determined yet if any of the Harmonys (and if so which ones(s)) and Sony Commanders can do direct video selecting for our JVC HDTV's?

I think the primary factor might be if the remote can "directly" select the HDMI "Digital IN" input or not. The descrete codes for the other inputs are fairly common since the older JVC remotes could select these inputs directly. JVC did away with this nice capability when they decided to rip off thier customers by providing a cheap piece of junk rather than a real remote. This change just happened to correspond with the addition of the HDMI port, thus no decrete codes are available to select the Digital IN input directly.

Although the obvious solution to their substandard remote is to spend even more money on a decent aftermarket remote, most of these do not have the capability to select the digital IN input directly. One would think that using a macro to select the Digital IN input would be a good solution, and then you find out how the excruciatingly slow user interface effects this alternative.

Any of the Harmonys have the discreet input codes for the JVC including the HDMI port.. We have a Z with the Harmony 680 Harmony and my neighbor has a G with the Harmony-680.

It appears I have a spider on the inside of the screen. It is still alive and moves a little every now and then over the last 24 hours. How much trouble is it to remove the screen and get this little guy out? I have seen the diagram from the service manual, but I am not clear about exactly what to do.

Can anyone help me determine the best way to remove the insect?

Thanks in advance!

Hello,

I have owned the JVC 61G for approximately one year now. It worked for approximately 2 months before I have been trying to get a working unit from JVC for the past 10 months. It has been replaced 2 times, and repaired 3 times. JVC Maybe refunding my money for the TV... which is $2490. I was wondering if you would advise I stick with this TV and get it repaired or go with a different TV (considering they give me the refund)? I have briefly looked and it appears that to get a 61" TV for under the $2490 price would mean I would have to go with a DLP, which I am not sure if I am comfortable with considering DLP's have moving parts and supposedly there is gaming lag, etc... I did all my research a year ago, and I found LCD was the way to go at that time....

So my question is, Stick with JVC, or move on and go with something else, and if so what compares for the price?

Thanks for any help!!!

Hello,

I have owned the JVC 61G for approximately one year now. It worked for approximately 2 months before I have been trying to get a working unit from JVC for the past 10 months. It has been replaced 2 times, and repaired 3 times. JVC Maybe refunding my money for the TV... which is $2490. I was wondering if you would advise I stick with this TV and get it repaired or go with a different TV (considering they give me the refund)? I have briefly looked and it appears that to get a 61" TV for under the $2490 price would mean I would have to go with a DLP, which I am not sure if I am comfortable with considering DLP's have moving parts and supposedly there is gaming lag, etc... I did all my research a year ago, and I found LCD was the way to go at that time....

So my question is, Stick with JVC, or move on and go with something else, and if so what compares for the price?

Thanks for any help!!!

Have you looked at the new Sony SXRD's? The 50a2000 is in that range but you'd be losing a bit of screen size. Don't know what their rep is. One caught my eye on display.

Good luck.

My JVC 56G786 is working pretty good going on a year now, but I think if I would have had your problems I'd be a little bit jaded towards these things.

Given the chance to buy my TV all over again a year later, I'd start researching all my options all over again. The TV market has changed quite a bit since September 05. For example, 1080p TV's are much more prominent these days. If I had to pony up a few more bucks to upgrade a bit, I wouldn't have much of a problem with that and if JVC still comes out the winner then, maybe, I'd get another one.

My JVC 56G786 is working pretty good going on a year now, but I think if I would have had your problems I'd be a little bit jaded towards these things.

Given the chance to buy my TV all over again a year later, I'd start researching all my options all over again. The TV market has changed quite a bit since September 05. For example, 1080p TV's are much more prominent these days. If I had to pony up a few more bucks to upgrade a bit, I wouldn't have much of a problem with that and if JVC still comes out the winner then, maybe, I'd get another one.

I still like the JVC, however I am just sick and tired of having all of these issues, you know? Anyways, starting over and doing all my research all over again is really scary considering I have already done so much research in the past.

I went to a local TV shop here and saw the new Sony TV's and love them, however the 60" is about a grand more than my JVC 61" I dont think I can swing that right now, so thinking about going with a DLP, however very nervous about the DLP technology.

I'm not a big fan of DLP technology either but that's just me, some people love it.

There are 1080p JVC D-ILAs now and a new model 720p with an iris and a couple of other differences. Check them out if your not shell shocked by JVC. There should be owners thread for both of those TV's here somewhere.

I take it you had a positive experiance with JVC service and support?

I'm not a big fan of DLP technology either but that's just me, some people love it.

There are 1080p JVC D-ILAs now and a new model 720p with an iris and a couple of other differences. Check them out if your not shell shocked by JVC. There should be owners thread for both of those TV's here somewhere.

I take it you had a positive experiance with JVC service and support?

JVC's service is absolutely horrible. Hence why I have been waiting 10 months to get a working TV. I will never buy another JVC product as long as I live. However since I already did buy this TV, I was just wondering if would be less hassle and better for me just to stick with JVC.

JVC's service is absolutely horrible. Hence why I have been waiting 10 months to get a working TV. I will never buy another JVC product as long as I live. However since I already did buy this TV, I was just wondering if would be less hassle and better for me just to stick with JVC.

If you read your post, you will see a very clear answer. Buy something else.

If you read your post, you will see a very clear answer. Buy something else.

HAHAH, yeah, you are right. I guess I am just so in love with JVC technology and the possibility that I could actually get a working set. Also the price point that JVC's are at are in my budget where as other alternate options I have looked at are a little out of reach.

My JVC 52 Z packed it in just after the year warranty was up (1 month after). I replaced 2 bulbs in that time and I would say each bulb lasted less than 800 hrs. Finally the light engine crapped out leaving me with a nice green discoloration on the left and Purple on the right, not fun to watch.

Since I was into my extended warranty, JVC would not replace the set, and to boot, the replacement cost for the engine was $4000!!!!

Futureshops' warranty company authorized a replacement, so they gave me a gift card in the full amount I paid for the JVC, $3000. I ended up buying a 52" Toshiba DLP, a HD cable box, high end cables and another 4 yr warranty without paying another dime.

The picture quality on the Toshiba is FAR better than the JVC, and its bigger. Plus I cant believe I was missing out on HD all this time :p

If they charge that much for their replacement parts, I can guarantee I wont be buying another JVC TV again EVER.

My JVC 52 Z packed it in just after the year warranty was up (1 month after). I replaced 2 bulbs in that time and I would say each bulb lasted less than 800 hrs. Finally the light engine crapped out leaving me with a nice green discoloration on the left and Purple on the right, not fun to watch.

Since I was into my extended warranty, JVC would not replace the set, and to boot, the replacement cost for the engine was $4000!!!!

Futureshops' warranty company authorized a replacement, so they gave me a gift card in the full amount I paid for the JVC, $3000. I ended up buying a 52" Toshiba DLP, a HD cable box, high end cables and another 4 yr warranty without paying another dime.

The picture quality on the Toshiba is FAR better than the JVC, and its bigger. Plus I cant believe I was missing out on HD all this time :p

If they charge that much for their replacement parts, I can guarantee I wont be buying another JVC TV again EVER.

Yes, I agree completely. There are better TV's for the money now, plus JVC televisions are PLAGUED with Defects.

Yes, I agree completely. There are better TV's for the money now, plus JVC televisions are PLAGUED with Defects.

Strange for you to say that. Go to the Toshiba threads and they're loaded with complaints. Plus I certainly don't see any PQ advantage in stores - quite the opposite in fact.

And I see very little evidence that D-ILAs made after the Z series have more than their share of problems. There's lots of comments from happy owners - of which I'm one. In fact, the only person I know who has a Z-series D-ILA loves hers after 3 years.

The point is that with millions of HDTVs in people's homes, you simply can't make global condemnations from your own experience and that of a few people who complain on forums.

Strange for you to say that. Go to the Toshiba threads and they're loaded with complaints. Plus I certainly don't see any PQ advantage in stores - quite the opposite in fact.

And I see very little evidence that D-ILAs made after the Z series have more than their share of problems. There's lots of comments from happy owners - of which I'm one. In fact, the only person I know who has a Z-series D-ILA loves hers after 3 years.

The point is that with millions of HDTVs in people's homes, you simply can't make global condemnations from your own experience and that of a few people who complain on forums.

When I have recieved two replacement televisions and 3 light engines repaired all within one year is pretty convincing that these TVs have major QA issues. Also I know 2 other people that have these TVs and have had similar issues. I pray I get my money back from JVC.

Well after ~600 hours of run time I have had my bulb blow.

Contacted JVC support and they weren't very helpful since the one year warranty ran out on the TV 2 months ago.

The support supervisor on shift basically thought we were stupid.

I let the wife talk to them because I was already a little annoyed and didn't want to be short with anyone.

The initial support person who took the call was pretty much clueless so the wife asked to speak to the supervisor.

He immediately tried to blow her off and tried to say that it was normal operating life since the TV was over a year old. Then once we explained that the TV is hardly ever used (maybe 600hrs tops) that it hadn't even been on for months this year because i was layed up in another room after having surgery.

Then he went into the problems were with older model TV with a Ballast Board problem that has since been corrected. But that this shouldn't effect our TV once he looked up the serial. He then went on to that it could have been due to power spikes or the such or improper shut down.

I then explained that this was unlikely was the TV has been on a UPS as recommended since day 1 and that you could always hear the fans continue to cycle after we would turn the TV off.

He wouldn't admit in anyway there was any problems with these bulbs but did admit that there was a new model out now.

JVC support refused to replace the bulb even with the lack of run time and proper use of a UPS.

The only thing they would offer was to ship a replacement bulb for 199.00+shipping.

I still dent understand what could have caused this bulb to blow with such little use when its rated per support for 4-6K hrs.

At this point I am disappointed in their support and probably wont buy another JVC product nor recommend any of their products.

I love the picture on the TV when it was new but with the cost of the bulbs if they continue to be a problem it turns the TV into a 61" over priced boat anchor.

I will order the replacement bulb (what choice do I really have) and hopefully it will last longer than the current one.

I just feel ripped off for as much as I paid for this TV to be having problems this soon.

Anyway enough of the rant, appreciate the opportunity to vent LOL.

Dude, that sux.
My first bulb blew after about 900-1000hrs and they sent me a new one pronto.
No charge.

Since my warranty is up this month, I should call in and try getting a replacement
to have on hand. As i recall, I thought there were a couple of numbers available to call for support, Does anyone have those? Which one is the best?
thx
Rob

I got my 52G786 back in October 2005, the bulb blew in January 2006 but luckily I noticed the picture going dark beforehand so I was able to get a replacement bulb delivered with only 1 day of downtime. Now that I'm coming onto the end of the 1st year of JVC warranty, I 'think' (wink, wink) I started to see some darkness and called JVC with this report and they shipped out another bulb. Got it late last week. I will wait until bulb #2 blows before I reinstall the new bulb.

I think the difference between the 3 months on bulb #1 and the 8+ months on bulb #2 might be the clip-on fan I installed on the back of the unit that goes on and off when my HT receiver is turned on and off. That, and maybe these bulbs are a little better. Is there anything I can read off of the bulb box that indicates these are newer (better, longer lasting?) bulbs?

1. Didn't JVC require you to send back the "blown" lamp? I had to prove mine was blown.
2. The original part number for the lamp was TS-CL110U. The new "improved" lamp adds AA to the original number.
esteps

I got my 52G786 back in October 2005, the bulb blew in January 2006 but luckily I noticed the picture going dark beforehand so I was able to get a replacement bulb delivered with only 1 day of downtime. Now that I'm coming onto the end of the 1st year of JVC warranty, I 'think' (wink, wink) I started to see some darkness and called JVC with this report and they shipped out another bulb. Got it late last week. I will wait until bulb #2 blows before I reinstall the new bulb.

I think the difference between the 3 months on bulb #1 and the 8+ months on bulb #2 might be the clip-on fan I installed on the back of the unit that goes on and off when my HT receiver is turned on and off. That, and maybe these bulbs are a little better. Is there anything I can read off of the bulb box that indicates these are newer (better, longer lasting?) bulbs?

Man I've been tempted to get the 52G786 at BB but I'm so worried about the bulb issue. The TV is priced so low and the picture is so good it's a difficult choice.

Has anyone here purchased this set with the BB warranty? Does the BB 4 year warranty include bulb replacement?

Here. and Yes, it does cover lamp replacement.


Has anyone here purchased this set with the BB warranty? Does the BB 4 year warranty include bulb replacement?

Man I've been tempted to get the 52G786 at BB but I'm so worried about the bulb issue. The TV is priced so low and the picture is so good it's a difficult choice.

Has anyone here purchased this set with the BB warranty? Does the BB 4 year warranty include bulb replacement?

If you have good luck with this set more power to you. And I wouldnt get it without the warranty However if you are dropping some cash you may want to just save for a 1080P set instead. It makes a huge difference believe it or not.

I just wonder if it's worth the $399 BB wants for the warranty....I guess it would be if people are going through a couple of bulbs a year it seems.

If you have good luck with this set more power to you. And I wouldnt get it without the warranty However if you are dropping some cash you may want to just save for a 1080P set instead. It makes a huge difference believe it or not.

That's where I'm confused. How can it make a huge difference when sitting around 9' from the set? At 9' a 1080p and a 720p look pretty much the same. They sure don't look several hundred dollars different in my opinion. Am I the only one that thinks this?

I just wonder if it's worth the $399 BB wants for the warranty....I guess it would be if people are going through a couple of bulbs a year it seems.



That's where I'm confused. How can it make a huge difference when sitting around 9' from the set? At 9' a 1080p and a 720p look pretty much the same. They sure don't look several hundred dollars different in my opinion. Am I the only one that thinks this?

depending on your source. Did you audition HD DVD? Becuase that is the only thing that takes advantage of 1080P right now.

depending on your source. Did you audition HD DVD? Becuase that is the only thing that takes advantage of 1080P right now.

Our main viewing will be satellite TV and standard DVD's. I might get an upscaling DVD player but as far as HD DVD (true 1080p) I'm not on that bandwagon yet. For me that would still be more of a novelty thing. Not too many titles and the cost of the players vs. the "marginal" gain in pic quality at a seating distance of 9' or so doesn't justify the price in my book.

I realize that a 1080p set kind of "future proofs" you for a while.....if you believe that one.........but.......if I'm not going to be watching any HD-DVD's for a while it seems a 720p set is just fine for me. Again, I think if I wanted a 55" plus set I would consider a 1080p due to my seating distance.

It kind of seems to me that a 1080p set is designed only to get the max out of HD-DVD/Blu-Ray, or if you want a really really big set and you want to set really close to it.

all I gota say is that LCos is the best display u can buy other than plasma at now low prices and its contrast ratios will leave someone blind . i have to turn down my jvcs contrast to Zero at night and its still a little to bright.

I'm with you, hence I decided I don't need to go with 1080P, at least for few more years. Anyway, are you really referring to the 786 in BB? That it is not the 787?

I have a 787 and people SUSPECT that JVC has "improved" the bulb-life than in the 786..

anyway, goos luck shopping.


Our main viewing will be satellite TV and standard DVD's. I might get an upscaling DVD player but as far as HD DVD (true 1080p) I'm not on that bandwagon yet. For me that would still be more of a novelty thing. Not too many titles and the cost of the players vs. the "marginal" gain in pic quality at a seating distance of 9' or so doesn't justify the price in my book.

I realize that a 1080p set kind of "future proofs" you for a while.....if you believe that one.........but.......if I'm not going to be watching any HD-DVD's for a while it seems a 720p set is just fine for me. Again, I think if I wanted a 55" plus set I would consider a 1080p due to my seating distance.

It kind of seems to me that a 1080p set is designed only to get the max out of HD-DVD/Blu-Ray, or if you want a really really big set and you want to set really close to it.

Yeah I meant the 787.

I'm still thinking about it though......still worried about that darn bulb.

1. Didn't JVC require you to send back the "blown" lamp? I had to prove mine was blown.

Yes. The first (original) lamp blew the day before the replacement arrived but I took my sweet time returning the blown lamp. Probably 2 months before I got around to it. I figure I got time until current lamp blows before I need to send it back. Either than or when the picture just gets too dark for my tastes.

2. The original part number for the lamp was TS-CL110U. The new "improved" lamp adds AA to the original number.

I think I recall seeing a "AA" on the box. Any way I can tell if the current lamp (the one I got in January 2006) is a "AA" when I take it out of the unit?

I need help. Went into the service menu of my JVC DILA HDG786 during a pause with a DVD movie. Switched to the digital channels while still in the service menu. I don't believe I changed anything. Exited the service menu and continued watching the DVD. Now, when I switch to digital all of my off air digital channels are green, some light blues and yellow but definitely no reds. DVD's and analog look great. Contacted JVC and the nearest service tech won't be at our place until Sept. 20th or 21st. They suspect something got changed in the service menu.

I got this set, the 52G786, back in January. I've used it plenty and haven't had to replace a bulb yet. Soon as I find the post here telling how to check bulb hours, I'll post it. Overall, I'm happy with the set, but there are two primary frustrations I've encountered:

1. In live in a new subdivision, so the power goes out a lot, presumably when they are making new connections. This set loses most of its settings then, even if the power goes out only briefly. I suppose a UPS could solve this problem, but I've yet to invest in one to try it out.

2. Noise or something in the reds and other bright colors (with red in them, I guess). This is typically only noticable in on-screen graphics, rather than film or video. Text or logos in commercials tend to be the most obvious. What I see almost looks like combing from bad deinterlacing, but that's not what it is. I actually noticed this on the display sets in the stores, but I was determined to buy an LCoS set and overlooked it.

Was in BB recently observing both the new 720 and 1080 JVC sets, and I never saw this same sort of noise. Presumably they've fixed it with the next generation image processing. Any chance of an upgrade for my set to fix the problem?

EDIT: Apparently I've only got 830 hours on the set.

Can anyone tell me the video formats that the HD52G786 sets will accept via HDMI input?

Here's the trick to retain your settings with a power loss:
Using the buttons on the side of the TV (Input 4) hold down the "input" button and then press "CH+". Do this with the set on.
I assume you have already figured out how to read the lamp hours.
esteps

I got this set, the 52G786, back in January. I've used it plenty and haven't had to replace a bulb yet. Soon as I find the post here telling how to check bulb hours, I'll post it. Overall, I'm happy with the set, but there are two primary frustrations I've encountered:

1. In live in a new subdivision, so the power goes out a lot, presumably when they are making new connections. This set loses most of its settings then, even if the power goes out only briefly. I suppose a UPS could solve this problem, but I've yet to invest in one to try it out.

2. Noise or something in the reds and other bright colors (with red in them, I guess). This is typically only noticable in on-screen graphics, rather than film or video. Text or logos in commercials tend to be the most obvious. What I see almost looks like combing from bad deinterlacing, but that's not what it is. I actually noticed this on the display sets in the stores, but I was determined to buy an LCoS set and overlooked it.

Was in BB recently observing both the new 720 and 1080 JVC sets, and I never saw this same sort of noise. Presumably they've fixed it with the next generation image processing. Any chance of an upgrade for my set to fix the problem?

EDIT: Apparently I've only got 830 hours on the set.

About a month ago the screen on my JVC went black along with the "flashing lights" The store where I brought it from promptly diagnosed a bad lamp and replaced it in an orderly fashion. About ten days later I got the same problem. At that point they sent a service tech to my home. He looked at the new lamp, which he deemed was fine, ran some diagnostics, called JVC and could not figure out what was causing the problem. A couple of days later they picked up the TV and brought it to their repair shop. The TV has been there now for about a week and they say that it has been working fine. I find this rather bizare since the same problem happened to me several times. The only way I could get the lights to stop blinking was to unplug it (and I did wait about 3 minutes for the fan to shut off). It would then run for 5, 10, and sometimes 60 minutes before shutting off again. Has this happened to anyone else?

I got my JVC 886G from ecost yesterday. Unpacked it and lugged it up three flights of stairs. Now, the only thing it does is flash the blue LED light on the power switch. Thre is no sound or anthing. According to the manual the flashing power and software LEDs indicate something is wrong. But before I repack this I want to make sure there is nothing that I should have done or some connection that I should have made. I already had my DirecTV hooked up to my old TV. I did not buy any other accessories from ecost (Do I need a card or anything if I'm not watching HD?) At any rate, it's too early in the am to call the service folks so I'm out here wandering the ethersphere.

I got my JVC 886G from ecost yesterday. Unpacked it and lugged it up three flights of stairs. Now, the only thing it does is flash the blue LED light on the power switch. Thre is no sound or anthing. According to the manual the flashing power and software LEDs indicate something is wrong. But before I repack this I want to make sure there is nothing that I should have done or some connection that I should have made. I already had my DirecTV hooked up to my old TV. I did not buy any other accessories from ecost (Do I need a card or anything if I'm not watching HD?) At any rate, it's too early in the am to call the service folks so I'm out here wandering the ethersphere.

You should be able to power it up without any connections. Most likely the bulb or light engine is not working. What did Ecost say? Tell them its DOA and you want a replacement.

I just grabbed a 61Z786 at a really good price ($1499 shipped)... hoping I get one of the good ones and not one that exhibits a lot of the problems I'm reading about here.

My Amex extends the warranty for an additional year... many other credit cards do this also... have any of you tried a bulb claim using the CC warranty? I read the 4 page terms at Amex & they didn't exclude them in the text.

Also - is it true that JVC is warranting the replacement bulbs for 1 year? That would alleviate a lot of my concern!

You should be able to power it up without any connections. Most likely the bulb or light engine is not working. What did Ecost say? Tell them its DOA and you want a replacement.I really love ecost but their return policies can really be irritating. They won't take it back until I get JVC to label it defective. I really don't want to lug this monster down and repack it, especially since I like the picture. I let "it" "rest" for a day and it started working, at which time I threw away the packing. Unfortuneately, it runs for about 30 minutes before it "overheats" (I have no idea why it shuts down, but that's my guess). It shuts down for about five minutes, at which time it runs again. Can my satelite TV be doing anything to it?

"2. The original part number for the lamp was TS-CL110U. The new "improved" lamp adds AA to the original number."

Just to add a little more to the bulb experiences. I just received my 2nd replacement bulb in sept and had the same part # as the one a year ago.
TS-CL110U. There weren't any AA added. It was shipped from San Diego.

Hi all -

The TV won't get here until Thurs, but I picked up my new HD DVR (Adelphia (comcast) 8300HD)... the office told me that they don't use HDMI cable - only component. Will I get better results with this set using an HDMI? Just wondering if I should buy one...

Also - anyone looking to get rid of the RK-CPR66 stand that came with some of these? If so, shoot me a PM - I'm in Pittsburgh.

Thx!

I have the same SA box here and I have used it with both the component and HDMI. I felt that the TV responded to resolution changes batter on HDMI.

Some other thoughts after having both the TV and the SA box for almost a year now:

Just get an inexpensive HDMI cable from Monoprice and if you feel you don't like it you won't be out major money. Nice stuff and you cannot tell the difference from the Monster cable the stores carry. If you don't have it already get your toslink cable as well as any others you might need at the same time, good stuff at a good price.

There is a restriction in the SA box, you can have either HDMI or component, but not both at the same time. You have to unplug the HDMI cable for the component to work.

With the Cable box off press the info and guide buttons at the same time to enter into the HD setup. Use the advanced controls to allow all resolutions to be passed to the TV. The JVC's scaler is quite good, let it do the work.

This may or may not apply, it depends on what programming is in your SA box. Double press the "settings" button to get into the full page setting screen. Set "Audio range" to wide, "Audio: Digital Out" to Dolby, "Set:Picture Format" to Pass Through. Most people set "Viewer:Power On" to Last Channel.

The 4 in 1 remote that Adelphia supplies is good for limited systems. Get yourself a Harmony remote if you have a home theater system, it just works better.

Invest $150 to $200 on a good UPS, keep both the TV and the cable box on it. The SA box takes several minutes to reboot, and bulbs are expensive.

Enjoy!

Jim

What about the 10-20 minute APC battery backups?
They only cost about $35...
You only need a couple of minutes to power down.
Rob

You can probably get away with spending a bit less, just be sure it will carry the TV. I know a 350VA unit won't. I expect that a 500va or better will. Anyone have a recommended size?

Avoid the least expensive units, they will not carry the TV.

Jim

Starting to read this thread, but not through all 114 pages yet. This looks like a great set. What are the minuses/disadvantages of this set, if any? Bulb life? Bulb replacement cost?

Hey all:

I haven't checked back on this thread since Jan 06. I have a 52G786 that I bought on 10/05. But anyway I'm starting to get or maybe more than anything starting to notice alot more a green hue on the right side and top left of the screen. It usually really stands out on gray backgrounds. I tried tweaking the RGB in the service menu, but its still noticable. Can any of you provide some of the settings (RGB, picture,detail, etc) that you guys use for HD and SD content. Thanks.


Jonathan
(cali)

Hey all:

I haven't checked back on this thread since Jan 06. I have a 52G786 that I bought on 10/05. But anyway I'm starting to get or maybe more than anything starting to notice alot more a green hue on the right side and top left of the screen. It usually really stands out on gray backgrounds. I tried tweaking the RGB in the service menu, but its still noticable. Can any of you provide some of the settings (RGB, picture,detail, etc) that you guys use for HD and SD content. Thanks.


Jonathan
(cali)

From another reply in this thread...

Now here is my set up without touching the service settings -

Tint +4
Color +5
Picture +17
Bright +5
Detail -13

Hi:

Thanks. Afj3. I'll try your settings @ noon and see how they look, quite a bit of adjustment......especially the picture level. I tried the setting from a poster a few pages back that had his system analyzed....it just seemed too warm, whites had more of a yellow. Can anyone else list their settings. Thanks.


Jonathan
(Cali)


Currently Using:

R = 121
G = 095
b = 095
Tint = 0
Color = 0
Picture = -5
Bright = +3
Detail = -18

Starting to read this thread, but not through all 114 pages yet. This looks like a great set. What are the minuses/disadvantages of this set, if any? Bulb life? Bulb replacement cost?

There is a lot of info here... My 61Z786 is going to be delivered later today! :)

From what I read, the main complaints concerned the bulbs blowing prematurely. There were scattered other posts about bad ballasts or light engines.

On the plus side, it's pretty much undisputed here that the PQ is incredible compared to other technologies.

Here was my rational in going ahead and ordering my 61...

Just about any company/model has it's share of 'my tv sucks because' posts... seems like all of these newer, smaller non-crt rptv's have a certain degreee of failures out there.

The PQ was reportedly excellent and it was on sale for only $1499 shipped at Vanns.com.

I bought it with my Amex which extends the manuf warranty by an additional year. I figure with this I'm covered for at least 2 years for bulb problems. Plus, there are rumors that JVC may be warranting the replacement bulbs for an entire year.

I also picked up a 5 year Warrantech/Repairmaster warranty for a little over $100... that it pretty comprehensive - other than not covering bulbs. Having it made the ballast/light engine/etc stuff a non-issue for me.

I figure it's pretty likely that within those 5 years I'll end up selling it to buy newer tech as the prices come down... so, I'm happy... I think :)

btw... can I run a set of 5.1 speakers from the outputs on this TV, or do I need to also buy some sort of a tuner or amp?

Thanks, ajf3.

What are you using for a stand?

Ajf3:

Most of us here either have separates or receiver/amp to distribute the optical/coxial digital signal output from cable/dvd/games/cdplayer/music server/etc to external speakers. Do a little research on some of the home audio basics. Alot of people on here love to help.

http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htf/forumdisplay.php?f=31

Jonathan
(cali)

Thanks, ajf3.

What are you using for a stand?

I order the rk-cpr66 stand that was built for this tv... only $90 shipped here http://www.pac-2000.com/rk-cpr66.html

About a month ago the screen on my JVC went black along with the "flashing lights" The store where I brought it from promptly diagnosed a bad lamp and replaced it in an orderly fashion. About ten days later I got the same problem. At that point they sent a service tech to my home. He looked at the new lamp, which he deemed was fine, ran some diagnostics, called JVC and could not figure out what was causing the problem. A couple of days later they picked up the TV and brought it to their repair shop. The TV has been there now for about a week and they say that it has been working fine. I find this rather bizare since the same problem happened to me several times. The only way I could get the lights to stop blinking was to unplug it (and I did wait about 3 minutes for the fan to shut off). It would then run for 5, 10, and sometimes 60 minutes before shutting off again. Has this happened to anyone else?

Not sure if anyone ever responded to your post, but I too had a similar problem. Bought my set 12/05 and it has been flawless up until last month. The set would randomly go to a black screen and the LEDand power light would flash. I'd shut the set down, wait a few minutes and it would power back up and run fine, sometimes for a few hours to all day, then other times for short periods until finelly it died, no picture. I called JVC and they had me pull the bulb and describe it to them. They diagnosed it as a bad bulb and shipped me out a replacement. Since I had bought a spare before hand I installed it and the set worked great for a couple of days, then I started having the same problems all over again. Don't ask me what made me think this, but a few weeks before I started having the first problems with the set I had reorginized the wires behinde the set, attaching the power cable to the cutout in the back of the set that appeared meant to hold the cable. After replacing the bulb and the problem crept back in a few days later, I figured I would undo some of my neat wiring job, mainlly the power cable. Since I have moved the power cable back away from the back of my set the problems have all gone. The set once again works like it did when new. I know the reply is log, but maybe it will help you and others.

Hello all! I'm totally new to this forum, so I hope I'm posting my question in the right place. I've been perusing the forum for quite some time now, and I've been able to gather quite a bit of information. That being said, I purchased a HD56G866 about a week ago, and I have a Scientific Atlanta 8300 hd dvr. I'm having a problem with my hdmi connection --it doesn't work!! When I connect the 8300 to my tv, it doesn't show a picture. Is this a known issue?? Can it be fixed through the service menu? Any help that anyone can give would be EXTREMELY appreciated. Thanks so much!

Hello all! I'm totally new to this forum, so I hope I'm posting my question in the right place. I've been perusing the forum for quite some time now, and I've been able to gather quite a bit of information. That being said, I purchased a HD56G866 about a week ago, and I have a Scientific Atlanta 8300 hd dvr. I'm having a problem with my hdmi connection --it doesn't work!! When I connect the 8300 to my tv, it doesn't show a picture. Is this a known issue?? Can it be fixed through the service menu? Any help that anyone can give would be EXTREMELY appreciated. Thanks so much!

Do you still have the component cables connected to the 8300? If so, that's likely your problem. Believe it or not, the HD8300 won't let you have both the HDMI and component cables plugged in. Pull out your component cables and your HDMI port will work. I had the same exact situation, and my cable company said the box is set that way. Once you've pulled the component video cables, check the settings of the cable box. Click the settings button twice and scroll to the video output setting. It should say something like HDMI output default. If you don't see anything that says HDMI, call your cable company and ask them to upgrade the box software.

If that still doesn't fix it, post again. You'll have to do a bit of troubleshooting to figure out whether the problem is the TV or the DVR.

I concur about the component sometimes being the culprit, but I have had the same problem even with the component cables off. We simply started using the component cables and cannot see a remarkable difference. We had to replace an HDMI board in a plasma screen and the tech concurred that HDMI is still problematic, at times, due to its two way communication and the copyright protection circuitry. Personally, I think the component produces a more film like picture, just my opinion. And the best part is no more HDMI voodoo.

I have to admit that I couldn't see much picture difference between the HDMI and component cable hookup, at least in a casual observation. Perhaps a very careful, close-up inspection might show something, but the difference is minimimal. Still, my HDMI connection has worked flawlessly for more than six months.

Hey guys, sorry to ask, but can you help me with the advantages/disadvantages of the JVC 61" D-ILA vs. the Hitachi 57" CRT RPTV discussed here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=687477&page=1&pp=30) ?

I think that the picure of the LCOS/D-ILA set will be superior, but it also costs 2x as much and I'd have to replace the bulb ($150-$250) every 6,000 (at least). The JVC will be lighter and brighter. The JVC will take longer to warm up/cool down.

Other diffs?

Feel free to comment in this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=734558) if you think it would be better to keep this specific comparison separate from this general discussion.

Thank you.

THANK you Deanbrew for your advice. Unfortunately, it wasn't able to help : ( I don't have my component cables connected at the same time, so that's ruled out. My SA 8300 doesn't have any menu options for video out, just audio. I know that TWC has been updating the menus to their new "Navigator" system, but my box doesn't have that yet. Is that what's running on your box?? I understand the fact that there's minimal difference btw picture quality going from component to HDMI, but I haven't bought a receiver yet, (please don't laugh at me) so I'd like to use the 2 component inputs on the back of the tv for my dvd player and XBox. Thus, my problem still remains. I called JVC, and they set me up with a local repair shop (I stay in Milwaukee) that is going to determine whether the issue is with my TV, or the 8300. With my luck, they'll tell me that it's the cable box, and Time Warner will tell me that they can't help (they're good at that). Thanks again for the input though, we'll see what happens soon

I don't know if my cable box is using "navigator" or not. I do know that the software was updated about six months ago, adding the "HDMI" option to the video out setting. How do I determine what software/firmware the box is running?

Well, from my understanding, the guide menu should be blue and grey, and there are newer options in terms of how to look for specific programming that you want, such as an on-screen keyboard. I've looked a few times just to be sure, and I do NOT have an option to change the video settings on my 8300!!

Well, from my understanding, the guide menu should be blue and grey, and there are newer options in terms of how to look for specific programming that you want, such as an on-screen keyboard. I've looked a few times just to be sure, and I do NOT have an option to change the video settings on my 8300!!

I don't have the update that you are talking about, as the search capabilities of hte 8300 are still lousy (compared to Tivo). There is no keyboard searching, just first letter of the show on just the one day you are searching. What a lousy system!

The video setting is found by hitting the settings button twice and then scrolling up and down the list. Click on video output (or something like that) and look at the choices. If "HDMI" isn't there, then call your cable company and ask them to update your box.

At the risk of jinxing myself, I want to report that the 52G886 I purchased in September '06 is still going strong. Original bulb is still bright and the set continues to look great. And we watch it a lot (though I don't have the hours).

The reason I'm writing is that it's easy to look at forums at get a skewed view of how reliable a product really is, 'cause the complainers are far more likely to report than the satisfied ones. :)

That's the set I purchase in September '05 (not '06). It is > 1 year old!

Other than size, is there any difference between the HD-61Z786 and the HD-56G787?

Other than size, is there any difference between the HD-61Z786 and the HD-56G787?


No.

And for anyone who's ready to pull the trigger on the 61Z886, this TV is on sale today (10/26) only at: http://www.woot.com/

Help...I think my bulb might have blown, but I want to make sure.

My wife was watching TV, she heard a click and and the fan stopped and now screen is blank, I don't hear the fan and the red and blue lights on the front of the the front of the TV are flashing constantly.

If I try to power it back up, I hear the fan go on and then about thirty seconds later,
the fan stops and I see the blinking lights again.

I've had the TV (HD-52Z575PA) since March '05 and it's connected to an UPS.
I tried powering the the TV off from the front button, but it automatically reboots itself.
I had bought an extended warranty through Visa, supposedly I am able to get a free replacement bulb through them, but I'm not sure how to go about getting the new bulb (if this is the issue).

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I would pull the bulb out and have a look at it. If it is blistered/black/burnt then it probably is. Otherwise, call VISA and ask for the proceedure for warranty claim.

I would pull the bulb out and have a look at it. If it is blistered/black/burnt then it probably is. Otherwise, call VISA and ask for the proceedure for warranty claim.


Thanks I pulled the bulb out and its definitely the bulb.
Unfortunately VISA wants something "in writing" so I am waiting on an email/letter from JVC that explains that the issue is caused by a broken bulb and that the bulb costs x-amount so I can get the repair approved and finally get my TV working again.

I have a JVC HD-61Z886 and everything about it is great...except how the inputs work. I only use two of the inputs but can not find a way to skip/disable the other inputs like most other TVs allow. So, when using a Tivo remote with one input button I have to stop at every input before it gets back to Video 1 or Video 2....annoying.

I found where you can lable the inputs...but even that seems sort of odd as it does not re-label the list when you press the input button. It does change the onscreen display but not the label in the input list. Strange.

Is anyone having HDMI problems with direct tv h20 receiver?
My inlaws 56g886 hdmi connection looses video for a few seconds when changing channels.
Even when sd to sd or hd to hd with native off. Any suggestions? Direct tv says its the tv. I had a h10 before and did not have this problem. But I hade HDMI green screen every other week with the h10. I thought the h20 would be better, what a bummer. How frustrating this hdmi Bull S____!!!

Is anyone having HDMI problems with direct tv h20 receiver?
My inlaws 56g886 hdmi connection looses video for a few seconds when changing channels.
Even when sd to sd or hd to hd with native off. Any suggestions? Direct tv says its the tv. I had a h10 before and did not have this problem. But I hade HDMI green screen every other week with the h10. I thought the h20 would be better, what a bummer. How frustrating this hdmi Bull S____!!!

I have a 56G886. HDMI from the HR20 to the tv with optical audio out from the HR20 to my Yammi receiver. No problems what so ever.

I need to purchase a new dvd player and most on this site seem to prefer Oppo. Does anyone here have any experience with these players and this set? 970 or 971 for best PQ and macroblocking trouble.

I've read and read but get more confused the more I read.

Thanks in advance.

My HD52Z575 picture got a little dim yesterday. Does this mean the lamp is going?

I've had the TV since March, 2005 and it's on an average of 4-5 hours a day. Is this the typical life span? I would expect it to last longer.

Do I have to wait for it to die to call Best Buy to replace the lamp under my extended warranty?

Any advice would be appreciated...

My HD52Z575 picture got a little dim yesterday. Does this mean the lamp is going?

I've had the TV since March, 2005 and it's on an average of 4-5 hours a day. Is this the typical life span? I would expect it to last longer.

Do I have to wait for it to die to call Best Buy to replace the lamp under my extended warranty?

Any advice would be appreciated...

I would pull the bulb out and have a look at it. When mine got dim, the bulb was developing a blister on the side. It eventually got darker and darker. Mine was still under warranty at the time and a quick call to JVC had me a new bulb in 3 days. Yes I would call BB and tell them that your display is getting dark. :cool:

I would pull the bulb out and have a look at it. When mine got dim, the bulb was developing a blister on the side. It eventually got darker and darker. Mine was still under warranty at the time and a quick call to JVC had me a new bulb in 3 days. Yes I would call BB and tell them that your display is getting dark. :cool:
Well, it's the lamp. A day later, POP and then rapid flashing of both blue and red LEDs in unison.

The Best Buy extended warranty wanted to wait 3-5 business days before even giving me a call back to schedule an appointment. I wouldn't stand for that so got them to agree to reimburse me for a new lamp.

Unfortunately JVC is out of stock as well so I'm without TV for a week.

Already shopping for a new plasma ;-)

Well, it's the lamp. A day later, POP and then rapid flashing of both blue and red LEDs in unison.

The Best Buy extended warranty wanted to wait 3-5 business days before even giving me a call back to schedule an appointment. I wouldn't stand for that so got them to agree to reimburse me for a new lamp.

Unfortunately JVC is out of stock as well so I'm without TV for a week.

Already shopping for a new plasma ;-)

A place to get a "spare" http://www.discount-merchant.com/product-p/jvc-ts-cl110uaa-new.htm&Click=2

Hey all -

Finally bought a speaker system & tuner, but I had a question...

Does the digital optical out output all the time - even if the feed that is playing is just a red+white RCA feed?

A place to get a "spare" [/url]

Verrrry interesting. First, these are the improved "AA" models, and second if you click on the "bulk purchase" link, they can be bought as low as $138 U.S. each. The wholesale price must obviously be lower than that ($100?). Sure makes the normal retail prices for replacement lamps look, um, suspect, doesn't it?

Verrrry interesting. First, these are the improved "AA" models, and second if you click on the "bulk purchase" link, they can be bought as low as $138 U.S. each. The wholesale price must obviously be lower than that ($100?). Sure makes the normal retail prices for replacement lamps look, um, suspect, doesn't it?
Didn't realize the improved models had a new part number.

So if I ordered direct from JVC for $200 I should expect to get the improved model? I sure hope so.

It is totally unacceptable for a lamp to have less than 30% of its advertised average life. I'm amazed JVC gets away with this. They should have extended the lamp warranty to two years for TVs with these crappy lamps.

For what it's worth, here is what this unfortunate excuse for a fourm member thinks about JVC; And yes, your darling JVC is now long-in-the-tooth and needs a technology refresh with higher contrast and faster response times. Sony XBR2 SXRD now easily leads JVC D-ILA in picture quality. Better luck next year. http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8867625&&#post8867625

I would without hesitation go with the Toshiba HD-DVD. It does an outstanding upconversion and offers the best picture for HD content. It's functions operate slower than standard dvd players but worth the wait. You can buy the 06 models for a heavily dicounted price.

Verrrry interesting. First, these are the improved "AA" models, and second if you click on the "bulk purchase" link, they can be bought as low as $138 U.S. each. The wholesale price must obviously be lower than that ($100?). Sure makes the normal retail prices for replacement lamps look, um, suspect, doesn't it?


My original bulb went out @ 700+ hours, JVC sent me a replacement bulb of the AA type. It now has 1000+ hrs and looking good ( I should not be saying this:(() Sometimes these people have 100 in stock, last weekend I checked it read -6 ?? hopefully meaning backordered? :D

I got my new lamp from JVC and it works.

Now I want to find out just how many hours I had on the old one. I cannot figure out how to access the lamp timer.

I've searched the site and Googled to no avail. I went into the service menu and cannot find it. Some info I found indicated that registers D070-D071 contain the number of lamp hours, but both of these are zero.

Does anybody know how to figure out the number of hours on the lamp? I'd like to get this information before resetting the lamp timer.

Thanks...

Hey all -

Finally bought a speaker system & tuner, but I had a question...

Does the digital optical out output all the time - even if the feed that is playing is just a red+white RCA feed?

i had the problem where the digital optical output would not shut off when
switching to an analog channel (using a cablecard). thus, the sound from the
digital channel would continue when swithcing to the analog channel. turning
the tv off while on an analog & turning it back on would then output the analog
sound, but then going to a digital & back to analog, the digital channel sound
would continue. realizing after 4 months that jvc was not going to fix this, i paid
the difference & got the 56fh96. it does not have that problem. the 61fn97 i just
picked up does not have the problem either. so, if you are using the tv's tuner,
& sound to the receiver (digital & analog), you may have an issue i guess will
not get fixed.

I got my new lamp from JVC and it works.

Now I want to find out just how many hours I had on the old one. I cannot figure out how to access the lamp timer.

I've searched the site and Googled to no avail. I went into the service menu and cannot find it. Some info I found indicated that registers D070-D071 contain the number of lamp hours, but both of these are zero.

Does anybody know how to figure out the number of hours on the lamp? I'd like to get this information before resetting the lamp timer.

Thanks...

Here's the answer to your question,

This is how you read the bulb hours. On your remote first push sleep, then push display and video status at the same time. then select 4 (even thought not on the screen) Navigate to D070, read the left most three digits. use this number *256, navigate to D071, read the left most three digits, add to first number. = total hours. i.e. D070=002 and D071=060 then total hours = (2*256)+(60)=572.

Hope this helps. :D

Here's the answer to your question,

This is how you read the bulb hours. On your remote first push sleep, then push display and video status at the same time. then select 4 (even thought not on the screen) Navigate to D070, read the left most three digits. use this number *256, navigate to D071, read the left most three digits, add to first number. = total hours. i.e. D070=002 and D071=060 then total hours = (2*256)+(60)=572.

Hope this helps. :D

I originally posted this....it works for g786 series....not sure it works for later models. :confused:

I had found this info before, but it doesn't seem to work for the (older) HD52Z575. There are always zeros in those registers.

Hi. I was thinking of buying the Xbox HD-DVD drive but read on IGN that I should make sure that my TV supports 1080p analog input:
"We caution, however, that owners should consult their manuals and TVs to ensure that they have analog inputs capable of accepting 1080p."

Does anyone know? I looked in the manual and on the back but couldn't tell. Until the Xbox 360 starts supporting HDMI with releasing a cable for it this is what is available. I use component video cables now from my Xbox 360 to my TV.
Thank you for any info.

These TVs are 720p native and don't support a 1080p input at all (HDMI, component, or otherwise.) However they do accept 1080i which the 360 will do.

I don't have the 360 add on but I have a Toshiba HD DVD player and it looks spectacular on my 56" JVC. Bar none, HD DVD is the best picture ever displayed on my TV. I very highly recommend HD DVD.

You don't need a 1080p display to enjoy HD DVD.

I have a 61" JVC D-ILA that I bought 14 months ago. I undestand the max it'll do is either 720p or 1080i. Am I correct to say that 720p (which is progressive I guess) is better because 1080i can be divided in half (equivalent to 540p) in comparison.
So the setting on the Xbox for games or HD-DVD is best for display on 720p on my TV?
Thank you.

Personally I think my TV looks best with a 1080i signal from my cable box, upconverting DVD player, and HD DVD player. Not quite sure why but if I had to guess, it seems the TV is designed to look good with a 1080i signal because the overwhelming majority of HD channels are 1080i. Ultimately it might just do a better job of converting 1080i to 720p than the input devices, but that's just totally unsubstantiated speculation.

Try both and see what looks best.

Hi. I was thinking of buying the Xbox HD-DVD drive but read on IGN that I should make sure that my TV supports 1080p analog input:
"We caution, however, that owners should consult their manuals and TVs to ensure that they have analog inputs capable of accepting 1080p."

Does anyone know? I looked in the manual and on the back but couldn't tell. Until the Xbox 360 starts supporting HDMI with releasing a cable for it this is what is available. I use component video cables now from my Xbox 360 to my TV.
Thank you for any info.

I will be adding the HD DVD drive to my 360 and my 52g886 on the 25th of this month. While initially connected through component, my hdmi is available currently because I am using cablecard slot for TV (dumped the dvr and never looked back). I believe 1080i and 720p will still be available options for the hdmi-no???

BTW- the PQ through component should be worth the 200 bucks.

Chaz01:
Even though you're using cablecard slot for TV I don't think you'll be able to hook up the Xbox to hdmi even if the slot is available because microsoft hasn't released an HDMI cable for the Xbox yet. If I'm wrong please let me know I'd be curious.

I have had a JVC HD61Z886 TV since Feb 2006. All of a sudden, blinking lights(both blue and orange) on the front and no picture. I checked my owners manual and it says there may be a lamp problem or a malfunction somewhere. I took out the lamp unit as instructed in the manual, and it's not broken and does not look damaged in any way. Put it back in and still get a blank(black) screen and the blinking lights after a few seconds after pushing the power button. Anybody have any ideas as to what the problem could be? A "tech" said I might have a bad circuit board. I have my set connected to Dish Network HD thru a JVC receiver, all using HDMI cables. Another "tech" said I may have damged the TV because I did not turn it off and on in the correct order. Huh? Is there really an "order" in which to correctly turn the TV, satellite box, and receiver Off and On? HELP, PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!

Chaz01:
Even though you're using cablecard slot for TV I don't think you'll be able to hook up the Xbox to hdmi even if the slot is available because microsoft hasn't released an HDMI cable for the Xbox yet. If I'm wrong please let me know I'd be curious.

NT-You are correct-not released yet. Have the HD DVD connected through my xbox on component. Very happy with PQ. Hard to watch DVD on my dvb318 after watching HD. will prolly just keep component-it looks that good.

chaz

Didn't realize the improved models had a new part number.

So if I ordered direct from JVC for $200 I should expect to get the improved model? I sure hope so.

It is totally unacceptable for a lamp to have less than 30% of its advertised average life. I'm amazed JVC gets away with this. They should have extended the lamp warranty to two years for TVs with these crappy lamps.

My lamp (52g886) died after three months. JVC sent a new one January of 2006. Set has been on 10 hours a day since. Over 3,000 hours later it's still working fine much to my surprise (knocks on wood). Will be interesting to see how long it lasts. I have a 3 year EW with bulbs from 10/05.

As you know from my posts, I've had myg886 for about 14 months now. I am very happy with the pq with one exception-fast motion artifacts, especially on camera pans like basketball. Have tried all combos of settings. Can anyone suggest a remedy? Will keep this set till ew runs out in 10/08 then buy a plasma. Meanwhile, this grid like artifacting is driving me crazy.

Thanks.

Chaz

I haven't posted for awhile. I really like my 18 month old DILA, no bulb issues yet but not as bright as when new, bought a spare for $220, don't want to take a chance with the bowl games coming up.

My question, I have cable from comcast using the cable card and not their box. Would adding a TIVO 3 with its dual tuners make my picture in picture work? I can only do it now with DVD and TV cable, not what I want with two bowl games on at the same time.

This may have been answered before, but 3400 threads in pretty daunting.

Thanks for any help.

Another "tech" said I may have damged the TV because I did not turn it off and on in the correct order. Huh? Is there really an "order" in which to correctly turn the TV, satellite box, and receiver Off and On? HELP, PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!

That tech is not a tech I would want working on my TV! He is full of BS and has no clue it seems, there is no special order on how to turn them on or off. The satellite box and the receiver have nothing to do with turning the TV on/off, nor could they possibly cause damage to the TV by not turning them on/off in a so called "correct order" like he claims.

As you know from my posts, I've had myg886 for about 14 months now. I am very happy with the pq with one exception-fast motion artifacts, especially on camera pans like basketball. Have tried all combos of settings. Can anyone suggest a remedy? Will keep this set till ew runs out in 10/08 then buy a plasma. Meanwhile, this grid like artifacting is driving me crazy.

Thanks.

Chaz

When I was buying my JVC over a year ago it showed more blocking than any of the TV's next to it in the store running the same feed. What it's showing is the compression. You're not seeing anything that isn't present in the signal. The TV does not do it on a signal that isn't over compressed (e.g. HD DVD, low compression HDTV, etc.). It seems the TV displays the signal as it is, flaws and all. Short of getting a signal that isn't overly compressed and making sure your TV is properly calibrated, I don't have a remedy.

When I was buying my JVC over a year ago it showed more blocking than any of the TV's next to it in the store running the same feed. What it's showing is the compression. You're not seeing anything that isn't present in the signal. The TV does not do it on a signal that isn't over compressed (e.g. HD DVD, low compression HDTV, etc.). It seems the TV displays the signal as it is, flaws and all. Short of getting a signal that isn't overly compressed and making sure your TV is properly calibrated, I don't have a remedy.

Thanks for answering. I was afraid of this reply.... I have HD DVD and it provides an awesome pic on this set. The NBC bowl game yesterday was great, the ABC game OK. I am now watching on Theater mode, high color (for sports), picture +10, brightness -10, color +2, color adjustment on, gamma off, and auto pic on, noise filter off. This seems to work for now. Next set will need to handle compressed feeds much better. I'll probably go plasma in 08.

Thanks again.

Chaz

Had my 61Z786 since July 05 and had one bulb replacement last June before my warranty. I've been playing with the settings on this thing since I got it so I figured I'd post what I think is the best picture I can attain.

Note: The only complaints I ever had with this TV was pixelation in fast scenes and black level. These gripes are now resolved with the settings below. With Comcast all-digital sd/HD cable thru HDMI, XBOX360/w hddvd, and Denon 2200 DVD player - these settings are perfect for every input. Black level of course is not as good as a crt, but you can *greatly* improve this by nailing grayscale. (Which removes aberrant color from black to white)

R - 39
G - 35
B - 67

Game (or standard - they're the same)

Tint 00
Color -07
Picture -15
Bright +19
Detail -15
Color Temp Low
Dig. Noise Clear - OFF
Color Management - OFF
Dynamic Gamma - OFF
Smart Picture - OFF


PS I should note I have total light control in my living room, and this is for dark or near-dark viewing. When I expose the TV to the daylight I may bump up the picture setting, but I'm usually working with it on in the background so I'm not as fussy about the PQ on the Judge judy,alex,joe brown,hatchett etc. :)

I recently bought D-ILA 56fh97, when I rout HDMI from my HD cable DVR thru my Yamaha receiver I get an onscreen message stating the tv can't accept HD signal from HDMI repeater using HDCP. The screen then goes green. I was unable to find this issue in the 116 pages of this thread. If anyone else has encountered this issue please let me know if there is a fix.

Had my 61Z786 since July 05 and had one bulb replacement last June before my warranty. I've been playing with the settings on this thing since I got it so I figured I'd post what I think is the best picture I can attain.
How do you quantify "bets picture"? Is this totally based on your own opinion, or did you use a caliabration DVD?

How do you quantify "bets picture"? Is this totally based on your own opinion, or did you use a caliabration DVD?

yes and yes


not only that, but I'm sure each set differs - but maybe someone who is dissatisfied may find these settings helpful, like I said I screwed with this thing for a year and a half


maybe I'll post some pics later

Ok here are a couple, a digital camera doesn't do it justice, of course:

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/3600/1001241sd0.jpg

http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/2512/1001242ft7.jpg

Well today my tv JVC HDILA 61Z786 died. The day before the Super Bowl it decides it had enough. Last time I checked in the summer I had 3600 hrs on the lamp. No lamp replacements since purchased in July of 2005. Yes, in my home we watch alot of tv...anyways...I have a replacement lamp, put it in as the instructions stated and NOTHING!!! JUST THE KISS OF DEATH....RED AND BLUE BLINKING LIGHTS!!!... I took the lamp out...reset the lamp again...nothing...blinking red/blue lights....I went down the road to my local tv dealer and picked up another lamp...nothing...just blinking red and blue lights...I immediately called for service...thank God for the 5 year warranty I paid for at my local retailer.....my local retailer service rep gave it a look today...and....his words were..."looks like the ballast is bad!!! I have to order a new one...it will be a couple of days...."

So much for having spare lamps around....anyways...the Super Bowl will be on a spare tv....no HD...just plain analog....bummer :(

Had my 61Z786 since July 05 and had one bulb replacement last June before my warranty. I've been playing with the settings on this thing since I got it so I figured I'd post what I think is the best picture I can attain.

Note: The only complaints I ever had with this TV was pixelation in fast scenes and black level. These gripes are now resolved with the settings below. With Comcast all-digital sd/HD cable thru HDMI, XBOX360/w hddvd, and Denon 2200 DVD player - these settings are perfect for every input. Black level of course is not as good as a crt, but you can *greatly* improve this by nailing grayscale. (Which removes aberrant color from black to white)

R - 39
G - 35
B - 67

Game (or standard - they're the same)

Tint 00
Color -07
Picture -15
Bright +19
Detail -15
Color Temp Low
Dig. Noise Clear - OFF
Color Management - OFF
Dynamic Gamma - OFF
Smart Picture - OFF


PS I should note I have total light control in my living room, and this is for dark or near-dark viewing. When I expose the TV to the daylight I may bump up the picture setting, but I'm usually working with it on in the background so I'm not as fussy about the PQ on the Judge judy,alex,joe brown,hatchett etc. :)


I have the same gripe. For reference' sake, what is the ms response time on these sets? I know the refresh rate is 75mhz, but would like to compare response times for fast moving scenes. The pixel structure is visible in fast moving (screen pans) sports and basketball looks like @#$%. I bought my g886 for sports. Thanks in advance.

BTW-your settings are too hazy looking for me. I've tried everything and am currently in game mode with some minor ticks here and there in the user menu.

Well today my tv JVC HDILA 61Z786 died. The day before the Super Bowl it decides it had enough. Last time I checked in the summer I had 3600 hrs on the lamp. No lamp replacements since purchased in July of 2005. Yes, in my home we watch alot of tv...anyways...I have a replacement lamp, put it in as the instructions stated and NOTHING!!! JUST THE KISS OF DEATH....RED AND BLUE BLINKING LIGHTS!!!... I took the lamp out...reset the lamp again...nothing...blinking red/blue lights....I went down the road to my local tv dealer and picked up another lamp...nothing...just blinking red and blue lights...I immediately called for service...thank God for the 5 year warranty I paid for at my local retailer.....my local retailer service rep gave it a look today...and....his words were..."looks like the ballast is bad!!! I have to order a new one...it will be a couple of days...."

So much for having spare lamps around....anyways...the Super Bowl will be on a spare tv....no HD...just plain analog....bummer :(

I'm back in business.

Pro: Quick installation of the ballast and my tv is back!!! Under GE 5 year Extended Warranty.

Con: Took 3 weeks turnaround time for the part.

I'm back in business.

Pro: Quick installation of the ballast and my tv is back!!! Under GE 5 year Extended Warranty.

Con: Took 3 weeks turnaround time for the part.

Did you happen to take any pictures of the ballast?? Was curious as to what it looks like. Was it burnt or did it look normal and smell ok :>) ?? :cool:

I feel like an idiot!

I bought one (52") last June and have not been too happy with it. SO, tonight I split the cable - one to cable box and the other direct to JVC and now I (finally) have real digital channels...

And I found this out AFTER I discovered that the D/A button on the remote meant I could switch between Digital channels and Analog (I guess)!!!

I let the TV do a scan and it found a bunch BUT the picture still does not look all that great. I believe this is due to:

1. The cable connection to the house from the street sucks.
2. The TV itself is not set right.

I also cannot get anything to work via the HDMI cable from the JVC upconverting DVD player. Nada.

When I have time I will get back here for advice and counsel...

Thanks!

I feel like an idiot!

I bought one (52") last June and have not been too happy with it. SO, tonight I split the cable - one to cable box and the other direct to JVC and now I (finally) have real digital channels...

And I found this out AFTER I discovered that the D/A button on the remote meant I could switch between Digital channels and Analog (I guess)!!!

I let the TV do a scan and it found a bunch BUT the picture still does not look all that great. I believe this is due to:

1. The cable connection to the house from the street sucks.
2. The TV itself is not set right.

I also cannot get anything to work via the HDMI cable from the JVC upconverting DVD player. Nada.

When I have time I will get back here for advice and counsel...

Thanks!

Can you do any comparisons cable vrs OTA signal in your area. Rabbit ears may work for you if you are within range.

I feel like an idiot!

I bought one (52") last June and have not been too happy with it. SO, tonight I split the cable - one to cable box and the other direct to JVC and now I (finally) have real digital channels...

And I found this out AFTER I discovered that the D/A button on the remote meant I could switch between Digital channels and Analog (I guess)!!!

I let the TV do a scan and it found a bunch BUT the picture still does not look all that great. I believe this is due to:

1. The cable connection to the house from the street sucks.
2. The TV itself is not set right.

I also cannot get anything to work via the HDMI cable from the JVC upconverting DVD player. Nada.

When I have time I will get back here for advice and counsel...

Thanks!

These sets are very signal sensitive. After a year and a half, I moved my 52" to my office and bought a 34" sony tube for the tv room. The smaller size is a significant loss but the pq makes up for it. My condo is one of 35 in the building and I just couldn't take the vid noise any longer.

Hopefully, you'll have better luck.

I am 14+ miles from Springfield and the signal qua;ity is poor - very poor.

Did you happen to take any pictures of the ballast?? Was curious as to what it looks like. Was it burnt or did it look normal and smell ok :>) ?? :cool:

The old ballast looked normal and smelled brand new (no burnt smell). Compared to the new one you couldn't tell which was the replacement. The tech stated that some of these ballast last 3 to 5 years (other than the bulb, this is another expense on these TV's). The installation was simple, just removing all the screws to get to the ballast took the longest. The top large back cover never needed to come off, just the bottom back cover. Total installation time was about 2 minutes for the ballast and 18 minutes to put all the screws back into place. I realized that a some point when I don't have a warranty I can do this myself if I can get the part.

I didn't take any pictures since there are so many ballast issues posted. On this link you will find a picture of the same ballast I had (2nd image). Scroll down for more information and pictures of other parts.

http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=471232#POST471232

The old ballast looked normal and smelled brand new (no burnt smell). Compared to the new one you couldn't tell which was the replacement. The tech stated that some of these ballast last 3 to 5 years (other than the bulb, this is another expense on these TV's). The installation was simple, just removing all the screws to get to the ballast took the longest. The top large back cover never needed to come off, just the bottom back cover. Total installation time was about 2 minutes for the ballast and 18 minutes to put all the screws back into place. I realized that a some point when I don't have a warranty I can do this myself if I can get the part.

I didn't take any pictures since there are so many ballast issues posted. On this link you will find a picture of the same ballast I had (2nd image). Scroll down for more information and pictures of other parts.

http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=471232#POST471232

thanks for the link. Forgot to mention that I have a 52G786, only one bulb so far at the 580 hr mark, replacement has been in there now 2K hours. ( Iam knocking..knocking) don't know if the ballasts are generic or set specific.?? Don't have any idea what the part # is or how I could find out. Just an effort to scope out a parts place in case I need it in the future. Been watching Discount merchants Electronics they seem to have a good running stock of bulbs.

thanks for the link. Forgot to mention that I have a 52G786, only one bulb so far at the 580 hr mark, replacement has been in there now 2K hours. ( Iam knocking..knocking) don't know if the ballasts are generic or set specific.?? Don't have any idea what the part # is or how I could find out. Just an effort to scope out a parts place in case I need it in the future. Been watching Discount merchants Electronics they seem to have a good running stock of bulbs.

The Lamp Ballast Unit part number for the HD-61Z786 and HD-61Z886 is QAL0676-001.

FYI--Just before my 1-yr warranty expired, last July, my 886 lamp blew (at 1900 hrs). The tech replaced both the lamp and the ballast, saying he did it "to be safe".
esteps

The old ballast looked normal and smelled brand new (no burnt smell). Compared to the new one you couldn't tell which was the replacement. The tech stated that some of these ballast last 3 to 5 years (other than the bulb, this is another expense on these TV's). The installation was simple, just removing all the screws to get to the ballast took the longest. The top large back cover never needed to come off, just the bottom back cover. Total installation time was about 2 minutes for the ballast and 18 minutes to put all the screws back into place. I realized that a some point when I don't have a warranty I can do this myself if I can get the part.

I didn't take any pictures since there are so many ballast issues posted. On this link you will find a picture of the same ballast I had (2nd image). Scroll down for more information and pictures of other parts.

http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=471232#POST471232

...one bulb so far at the 580 hr mark, replacement has been in there now 2K hours. ( Iam knocking..knocking)

I lost my first one at 2300 hours, replacement is better at 3600 hours so far. Even more encouraging, the first one started to dim at maybe 1500 hours, replacement still bright as ever.

I lost my first one at 2300 hours, replacement is better at 3600 hours so far. Even more encouraging, the first one started to dim at maybe 1500 hours, replacement still bright as ever.

Presumming that the newer ones are part # TSCL110UAA, I think the old ones, my original was without the AA at the end?? I noticed also that the bulbs are being sold without the enclosure. From the web site: Features These lamps are OEM JVC LAMPS without enclosure. Replacement of the bulb with your original is very simple. While we don't YET have a guide online, it is very similar to other DIY Replacements found on http://www.fixyourdlp.com " :o

Okay, now I am REALLY trying to get into our home theatre system. The TV is a JVC HD-52G786, the A/V is a Panasonic SA-XR25, the DVD is a Phillips DVP-5960 player with upconversion.

I have tried to use the HDMI cable between the DVD and the JVC and ALL I get is a green screen!

What am I doing wrong???

I admitted I was an idiot a few days back when I finally figured out I could get HD TV via Insight by letting the TV scan and then use the remote to switch back and forth but this one is making me nuts!

I have cables out the wazoo - HDMI, Component, RCA, etc. (good ones), but this one is just not working for me.

Has there been a software upgrade/update I cannot find?

ANY and all assistance will be appreciated!!! I am not really an idiot but some days I am extremely naive...

I am in central Illinois and can be reached here or email at: zettler1@insightbb.com

Thank you all!

Well, at least I have figured out the answer to one of my questions and it was a big one! Went here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9940147#post9940147 and it showed me how to enter the Service Menu and was able to reste things so my HDMI connection went from "NG2" to "OK".

Now, all I have to do is tune the TV for a picture picture...

Hello all,

Got my set in Jan 05, 61z585. Blew out my first bulb in Oct 06. Not long after I started noticing a green glow on the left hand half of the screen. Lived with it, swapped out and tried another bulb.

Got my local shop to come out and look at it, took them some pictures. They have called me back diagnosed as a light engine problem. No price given for the repair. The green really drives me crazy but had been hoping it would either work itself out with a little more time or become a bigger problem. After 6 months I guess it's time to do something.

I see this has happened some in this thread, a few questions:

1. For those who replaced their light engine did this solve the problem?
2. Did the green problem ever reoccur after changing the engine?
3. How much did this repair cost you?
4. Was it a worth while and satisfying fix?

Additionally I see some folks have a problem with the HDMI. Let me bounce my problem off you all.

I have a DirecTV Tivo, the HR250 HD one. It worked great for a few months but then one day the screen looked all mosaic-ed, like I put a panel of bathroom shower glass in front of the TV. I felt like it was a problem the HR250 and switched to component cables.

I have used my Sony HD camcorder with the set via the HDMI and it has been fine. I continue to assume the issue is the Tivo unit (which I can live with) but wanted to throw it out in case this was actually a sign of trouble with the set.

Thanks in advance for your help!

wonderrx,

I wish I had the answer as my HDMI started working and now it doesn't! :mad:

I am going to call this in for repair.

wonderrx,

I own a HD-52G786 and am plagued with the green tint problem.

I have been working with the [only] authorized service center in my area for some time (since December) to remedy the issue. They just replaced the light engine (three months later) and returned my TV two days ago (the TV wasn't gone the entire time... it has been in and out... long story). I was overjoyed to get the TV back but severely disheartened to find that the new engine exhibits the same problem in the exact same area.

The tint is easily visible when viewing a source input (such as Input 2) without a connected device (normally, it would show a solid gray screen... however, it is gray and green/yellow in my case). The tint is most pronounced diagonally, starting in the lower left moving to the upper right and becomes more of an annoyance with every viewing (objects that are supposed to be composed of one solid color, such as a white wall, vary greatly in hue on different parts of the screen... white to green).

The people at the service center are very kind and patient, but the process has been taking much longer than I had anticipated. I also find it odd that the new engine is problematic in the exact same area as the old. I would even venture to say that it seems even more pronounced now.

I will be calling them tomorrow. I sure hope that a solution can be found. I am sure they are just as tired of dealing with this as I am.

So my local shop has diagnosed my green blob problem to be a defective light engine requiring replacement. They have quoted me a price of $700.

1. Is that price resonable?

2. Has any one has continued issues/failures after having their LE replaced?

3. Anyone know what the expected life space of a LE should be?

4. The shop said I could continue with my current LE and the green-ness. JVC told them that it could stay them same for a long time or get worse or even fail. It can be pretty random from what they said. Anyone have any experiences with what happens if you don't change the LE? Mine has been like this for 6 months now.

Before I would replace something as expensive as the LE, I would certainly clean the mirror just to see if perhaps you had some condensate/muck on it in that area. A lot of "blob" problems are due to either a dirty mirror or the source lens you see directly in front of it. You can only get to the mirror through the filter access panels without tearing the entire set apart (not advised). It is extremely hard to clean the mirror well from the two small access panels openings but it can be done if you are creative. The source lens should likely only be cleaned by air pressure from a can of air duster, dont touch it with even a lint free cloth or you will just compound the problems there.

Since I smoke I have to clean the mirror annually. In fact, anyone that allows smoking in the same room as a JVC D-ILA is going to be cleaning their mirror within a short time due to picture quality degradation that occurs, although some will likely just ignore it. Even condensate from normal room humidity changes and dust will have an appreciable effect, so no one is immune to the problem.

The first time I cleaned mine, I nearly fell down when I saw how much muck was on it; the difference after cleaning was like night vs day. I had a 1 ft pink hue area in the bottom left corner that completely disappeared after cleaning and I swear the overall picture looked better than it did when the set was brand new.
I had to construct an arm extension tool that allowed me to reach the areas that I could not get to with my hand. I use microfiber cloth and pure methanol with a slight amount of distilled water added to clean it. If you touch even one area of the mirror, you will be cleaning the entire mirror, so its something you have to plan to do in its entirety.

For those with HDMI green screen issues, try reseting the HDCP security which has likely tripped since it seems to do so on these sets if you happen to even look at them wrong. :)

So my local shop has diagnosed my green blob problem to be a defective light engine requiring replacement. They have quoted me a price of $700.

1. Is that price resonable?

2. Has any one has continued issues/failures after having their LE replaced?

3. Anyone know what the expected life space of a LE should be?

4. The shop said I could continue with my current LE and the green-ness. JVC told them that it could stay them same for a long time or get worse or even fail. It can be pretty random from what they said. Anyone have any experiences with what happens if you don't change the LE? Mine has been like this for 6 months now.

I have a diagnosis of bad light engine on my 70G886, slight green glow in lower left quadrant. Showed up after blown bulb was replaced. It is accompanied by a distinct purple tint on the rest of the screen on grays and blacks. When the picture is showing a bright outdoor scene, no problem, but any dark scene will show the green in the corner. Even my wife notices, which means it is a real problem.

The set is covered under a GE extended service contract, but apparently they have a problem with a quote of $2525 from the service shop. The part alone from JVC is $2000. If you have one of the smaller sets, it's about $1200 for the part.

I would be concerned about them using a new part from JVC if they are quoting you that low price. I don't think this part is easily refurbished by third parties.

Given that I have seen new 1080p JVC 70" sets for $2800 delivered, it seems like this is a good case for replacement, especially given the experience of one poster who got a new light engine and still had the green glow.

Check into the details on that $700. That might just be the labor.

So my local shop has diagnosed my green blob problem to be a defective light engine requiring replacement. They have quoted me a price of $700.

1. Is that price resonable?

2. Has any one has continued issues/failures after having their LE replaced?

3. Anyone know what the expected life space of a LE should be?


wonderrx,
1. Yes, that price is reasonable. I had the LE replaced on my 52G786 (under warranty) and the service receipt stated $900 (part only). That's here in Portland, OR.

2. One problem I'm having now is noise on all signals. This wasn't there before and its driving me and the spouse crazy.

3. The LE is supposed to be a "never breaks" item. Kind of like the steering in your car, it should never die.

I'm currently navigating this thread for the service menu tweaks (convergence, etc.) but if someone reads this and would so kindly point out the steps I should take to try and calibrate this tv, it would be most appreciated.

Thanks.

OK, so the service manual lists the light engine part number as: TS-COP7A-SAA

What they slapped in there at the service shop states the same but with "-R" on the end. Is that a revision level, or does it mean Refurbished? I'm still trying to dial out the noise on the tv after this repair and nothing gives.... If I got a refurb light engine, very disappointing.

IThe part alone from JVC is $2000. If you have one of the smaller sets, it's about $1200 for the part.

I would be concerned about them using a new part from JVC if they are quoting you that low price. I don't think this part is easily refurbished by third parties.
.

SHOMan, just realized you are in Portland also. If you don't mind, what shop were you dealing with. I just ran my tv through SharperVideo off of 50th Ave.

$900 on the light engine. I'd like to find out if that was OEM or refurb.

Thanks for any info....

OK, so the service manual lists the light engine part number as: TS-COP7A-SAA

What they slapped in there at the service shop states the same but with "-R" on the end. Is that a revision level, or does it mean Refurbished? I'm still trying to dial out the noise on the tv after this repair and nothing gives.... If I got a refurb light engine, very disappointing.


$900 on the light engine. I'd like to find out if that was OEM or refurb.


$900 would appear to be a very good price for optical unit, because at partstore.com it's $1700.00 for the version with the "TS-COP7A-SAA-R" part number as you mentioned was put in your set. And they do not list it as being a refurbed part, but they do show it as not being available anymore under the part number without the "-R" at the end.

http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch.aspx?PartNumber=TS-COP7A-SAA&x=12&y=15

SHOMan, just realized you are in Portland also. If you don't mind, what shop were you dealing with. I just ran my tv through SharperVideo off of 50th Ave.

$900 on the light engine. I'd like to find out if that was OEM or refurb.

Thanks for any info....

Yes, I am dealing with Sharper as well. The JVC website is listing most of the sub-70" light engines at about $1200 for the part (retail). You can go to JVC.com and look up the part price yourself. I am assuming these light engines don't get thrown away, and that they do get refurbished (there is a core charge). The problem would be if they didn't replace the panels that were leaking light in the first place, then the refurb would be for nothing.

I am still waiting to hear about the resolution on my set. GE approved $1200 and change for the light engine replacement on my 70G886, but the invoice came in at $2525, and they refused to pay. Then, it looks like Sharper sat on it until I called GE asking what the delay was. It seems that when GE denied the claim, my repair order went to bottom of "trouble" repair order file.

In my research, there is some correlation between a bulb going out and being replaced and the onset of the "green glow". A couple of thoughts. Perhaps the bulb blowing out causes some kind of heat related damage to the panels, or (and this more likely), the panels have been deteriorating over time, and our dimmer bulbs did not show the glow. Maybe the new bright bulb just shows what was already there.

In my case, the glow has gotten worse in the six weeks since I had someone out to look at it.

UPDATE: Sharper Video just called to schedule the LE replacement. Part came from JVC, not sure if refurbished. They had been getting ready to return part to JVC, but GE Service contract finally approved. In my case, R&R is over $2500.

I have a HD-56G787 720p, where can I find information to change my picture settings. I've never done it so is there websites where people with the same sets have found good settings or are there programs that you can buy to customize it?

Any help will be greatly appreciated because I've looked all over with no sucess.

I have a HD-56G787 720p, where can I find information to change my picture settings. I've never done it so is there websites where people with the same sets have found good settings...I've looked all over with no sucess.

You are in the right place. Use the search function on this thread. Lots of lists of settings people have used.

Put into service on 2/4/06. Operation has been flawless. No problems with HDMI (not much different than component), No "green" color issues. Just replaced original lamp today at 3,451 hours. Ordered the lamp from JVC at 11:30 a.m. yesterday. Shipped from San Diego and delivered to my house in Ohio at 10:30 a.m. the following day.

I have extended service plan from Best Buy. They came out in 2 business days and replaced the bulb free of charge. I will keep the one from JVC as a backup since I didn't open it. If you don't have a backup lamp, drop the $200 now. 3 days without my HD-ILA has been a killer. Won't happen again!

Only complaints might be on some very dark movies (Matrix, etc) I will see some minimal "blocking" of the very blacks. I suspect this could be manged once I take the time to calibrate using a Lucasfilm DVD or something similar.

For a while when I switched between HD and regular channels on the cable box I would hear a cracking sound from the TV. I suspect it was the cable provider and not the TV. I have not experienced it in a while so I believe the cable company identified the issue.

Great TV and my first real big screen. 18 months later I am still completely satisfied. If only I could have purchased it at the price it sells new for now. Still, no regrets.

Hey Stew. Glad to hear you're enjoying your TV. Mine has been good to me as well. I had one bad bulb but the one JVC replaced it with has been going strong.

If you're talking about the DVD version of The Matrix, it's plagued with back macroblocking. Chapter 29 I think, the lobby shootout, has long been my test of DVD players that tend to enhance the blocking problem. It's noticeable even without such DVD players.

Anyone using a Toshiba A20 HD-DVD with the JVC 61Z786? If so, how compatible is the HDMI connection and what resolution worked best from dvd to tv?

Anyone using a Toshiba A20 HD-DVD with the JVC 61Z786? If so, how compatible is the HDMI connection and what resolution worked best from dvd to tv?

I have a 61Z786 and Toshiba XA2 (instead of an A20) and have tried all the resolutions via HDMI.

I settled on 720p instead of 1080i. The picture quality appeared the same to me, but I found a greater lip sync problem with 1080i. My old Yamaha RX-V800 receiver doesn't have a general, audio delay capability so I couldn't just delay the audio as desired. I guess the deinterlacing circuits cause a greater video delay.

YMMV.

Enjoy,
Ron

Well like the title says I crack my screen. It's on the edge so when watch letterbox it's not in the way. I've checked the JVC site and it looks like it would be over $700 to get a factory replacement. When the TV now goes for $1300 I'm not sure it's worth it.

So I'm asking if anyone know any place else to get a replacement screen. I did some searching and there use to be a place called Mighty Shield, but looks like they went out of business.

Thanks

Hi Everyone,

I have had my TV for close to 2 years now and have loved it, I think the image is great. Lately though, I have noticed a problem. It is highly noticable when viewing text, but can be noticed on images as well. The problem is some kind of ghosting effect. This happens on both Component and HDMI, DVD, Blue-Ray, satellite HD / SD. I understand that ghosting is specific to analog signals, so that can't be the problem. It almost appears as if the text has a surrounding outline offset from the original by at least close to 1 cm (which is a fair bit). I'm not sure what this could be, and I don't believe it was always like this as I would have noticed. Does anyone have any comments tha may assist me with this.

Thanks in advance.

A. It was always like that, you simply failed to notice it before.

B. It is a limitation of the LCOS technology, and something JVC and other LCOS vendors would like you to overlook. Hooking up an HTPC to one will typically reveal this issue much more readily.

C. It effects much more than just text, text simply presents the problem more dramatically.

D. If you had evaluated your set next to a decent plasma of similar size, you would likely not be quite as happy with the LCOS picture. You may even say that its not really even a true HDTV. IOW, its all just relevant to what you have as comparison.

E. Most folks never notice it at all, as they are easily impressed by their "near" HD experience.

Don't get me wrong, as I think JVC D-ILA's have a lot going for them, I even own one myself as an HTPC display. But, with the prices dropping on direct view LCD panels it simply make more sense to choose a different technology now. LCD panels offer every benefit that LCOS did and they actually have a "very good" HD picture. If you are not concerned with the potential for burn-in, then plasma is likely going to be an even better option from a cost standpoint.

While it is true that chromatic aberration is inherent in JVC's design it is typically not noticable on a properly calibrated set at normal viewing distances.

If you are noticing the ghosting now on the same content and viewing distances as before, then it is possible that something is out of alignment and can be re-calibrated by a technician using the service menu. Or if you are courageous you can try it yourself; I believe the service manual is available out there somewhere.

However if you're noticing this only at close viewing distances and near the edges of the screen, then it is considered "normal" for this set.

Well like the title says I crack my screen. It's on the edge so when watch letterbox it's not in the way. I've checked the JVC site and it looks like it would be over $700 to get a factory replacement. When the TV now goes for $1300 I'm not sure it's worth it.

So I'm asking if anyone know any place else to get a replacement screen. I did some searching and there use to be a place called Mighty Shield, but looks like they went out of business.

Thanks

Maybe check ebay or craigs list or the like for a dead TV that you can get for cheap and swap the screen out. It's probably not that easy to find one though.

I had a spider in my TV and spent last Saturday morning taking the screen out. It's really pretty easy. You should be able to find a copy of the service manual online.

While it is true that chromatic aberration is inherent in JVC's design it is typically not noticable on a properly calibrated set at normal viewing distances.

If you are noticing the ghosting now on the same content and viewing distances as before, then it is possible that something is out of alignment and can be re-calibrated by a technician using the service menu. Or if you are courageous you can try it yourself; I believe the service manual is available out there somewhere.

However if you're noticing this only at close viewing distances and near the edges of the screen, then it is considered "normal" for this set.

There is no adjustment in the service menu that will have any effect on ghosting. A rough adjustment to red and blue position is all there is, and it has little effect on anything (including chromatic aberation) since the default red/blue alignment settings are nearly always correct. I do use the service menu setting to adjust the RGB position which is simply a horz/vert screen position setting available in the same service menu screen.

The actual amount of ca is set at the factory in the initial alignment, and is simply not something that can be modified by a technician. There is also a mechanical focus adjustment to the source lens that can help a bit with blur, but this too has absolutely no effect on ghosting. Ghosting is a quality issue related to the LCOS technology itself, and consumer grades sets will always have about the same amount of ghosting present.

A black on grey cross hatch pattern will illustrate ghosting quite well. If you have an HTPC you can grab some free pattern generation software that will help to evaluate the ghosting issue from here (http://www.download.com/TechPCvg/3000-2194-10322844.html?part=dl-TechPCvg&subj=dl&tag=button).

Well like the title says I crack my screen. It's on the edge so when watch letterbox it's not in the way. I've checked the JVC site and it looks like it would be over $700 to get a factory replacement. When the TV now goes for $1300 I'm not sure it's worth it.

So I'm asking if anyone know any place else to get a replacement screen. I did some searching and there use to be a place called Mighty Shield, but looks like they went out of business.

Thanks

If it's the clear outer protective screen, try a home building center like Home Depot or Lowes and see what sizes they have available in "Lexan" or plexiglass. If they offer it in sizes larger than what you have, you should be able to cut it down to fit. Cost would probably be roughly around $50-$70 or so, for a piece in the size you need.

The other option, is like you said. Locating and buying something like a "Mighty Shield".


http://www.mightyshield.com/

http://www.tvscreenrepair.com/

I recorded the Sentinel off HD HBO and when I switch from 480i to 1080i the picture gets darker after about 1 second. first it's normally bright then it goes a shade darker.. 480i looks like it should.

Any thoughts? I have replaced the bulb once before about a year ago but I think the picture was slowly getting darker instead of this 480i bright and 1080i dark quirk.

Oh yeah, changing from 480i to 1080i on my directivo hd250
Rob

Ok, Scratch that.
Nothing wrong, Just a setting.
Thought it might be something stupid like that.
Rob

Hello,

Everything worked fine for at least a year, all of sudden the TV's digital-in option in the setup menu is grayed out. I have my dvd player connected directly to the tv via HDMI. (I run optical to the receiver).

I searched around and saw a thread about resetting the HDMI on the tv through the service menu. I did that and now it reads "ok" but the option is still grayed out and it doesn't work.

Help!

Thank you!

I have been trying to get my new PS3 to work over HDMI with my JVC for a couple of weeks now. Sony is no help and JVC is no help so I turn to the internet.

The HDMI on the JVC works with a Sony DVD player and a Dish Network receiver with no problems. It sort of works with an Xbox 360 Elite because it will pass video but no audio over the HDMI. I've worked around this issue by using optical audio to my reciever out of the Xbox.

The playstation 3 works fine on a Phillips TV I have in a back room as does the Xbox 360. I have tried just about everything and can get absolutely nothing to work. Sony tells me it isn't a problem with the PS3 (And they're right, it works fine via compsosite cables and HDMI on a different TV) and JVC tells me it isn't the TV because the DVD player works. I can see that point to which is why I called them in the first place.

Any great ideas or does anyone else have this working effectively? I hate to break down and go component but I'm not really up for buying a new TV either.

I don't have a clue but I can tell you that my PS3 and JVC HD-56G786 play very nice together. No problems at all.

Bummer but thanks for the reply. I wonder if it really is just a issue of an older model TV. Too bad, I love this TV but based on their total lack of assistance I won't buy another to replace it. I was really hoping they would suggest a firmware upgrade but when I specifically asked that they said to get the PS3 firmware upgraded.

I may try a different PS3 if I can get my hands on one.

Thanks for the reply though.