No problem. You might want to look in the PS forum. I found this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=752327 that says, "JVC HD-61FN97-seems to work fine with everything except 480p via hdmi"

Maybe someone can help:

52z575
- when you turn it on the red and blue light starts flashing after 10 second
- and then it turns off
- the bulb is brand new
- if you turn on/off a few times it will start up
- I checked service menu and all was listed as OK
- and it doesn't do this everytime
- no other problems in 2.5 years

Any suggestions?

Thanks

Maybe someone can help:

52z575
- when you turn it on the red and blue light starts flashing after 10 second
- and then it turns off
- the bulb is brand new
- if you turn on/off a few times it will start up
- I checked service menu and all was listed as OK
- and it doesn't do this everytime
- no other problems in 2.5 years

Any suggestions?

Thanks

It happened to me...it is the ballast....do a search for my posts on this issue..

It happened to me...it is the ballast....do a search for my posts on this issue..

Thank you so much!

At least I have an idea before I get ripped off. Any idea what that repair will cost?

Maybe someone can help:

52z575
- when you turn it on the red and blue light starts flashing after 10 second
- and then it turns off
- the bulb is brand new
- if you turn on/off a few times it will start up
- I checked service menu and all was listed as OK
- and it doesn't do this everytime
- no other problems in 2.5 years

Any suggestions?

Thanks
Mine did the same thing. The TV thought it was over-heating ( I think), so I cleaned out the whole area around the bulb with a can of compressed air, and it worked fine after that.

Thank you so much!

At least I have an idea before I get ripped off. Any idea what that repair will cost?


My repair cost me nothing because I took a 5 year warranty when I purchased the tv.

It happened to me...it is the ballast....do a search for my posts on this issue..

It was not the ballast. It was the non-JVC bulb.

Do not waste money on bulbs made by LTI (LTI lamps)!

It was not the ballast. It was the non-JVC bulb.

Do not waste money on bulbs made by LTI (LTI lamps)!

Can you post the p/n's of the bad and good bulb that was used??

Can you post the p/n's of the bad and good bulb that was used??

No problem:

LTI: LTIP/TS-CL11OUAA (BAD)
JVC: TS-CL11OU (GOOD)

No problem:

LTI: LTIP/TS-CL11OUAA (BAD)
JVC: TS-CL11OU (GOOD)

TX...its easy to see or be confused by similar looking part #'s. Most of the parts I see on the web, identified as JVC p/n are TS-CL11OUAA, maybe they are all the same p/n but with different mfgrs? but have added the AA at the end, which your "GOOD" version is not showing.

Here's the JVC link for that blub, http://www.jvcservice.com/store/ProductDetail.asp?part=TS-CL110UAA

After owning my 56G886 for almost 2 years now...I'm finally having my first major issue.

I've been through the bulb issue already (2 months after purchase, the bulb blew. Local shop just swapped us a new one for no charge)

Now it's something a bit more serious...

I have all my audio / video running through a Pioneer receiver...that will make sense in a bit.

I was watching football and doing some work on the computer. The game was just kind of background noise at that point until a big play comes up and you can hear the announcer shouting. I turn to see what's going on and there's no picture. Still had sound because that's playing through the receiver. I switch channels just to make sure it's no the cable. Still no picture but the sound changes as it should. I switch the channel back to the game...still no picture but the announcer is going off about the last play.

I check the TV and the blue light is still on. I cycle the power (push the power button). I notice that I don't hear the fan running like I normally would when I turn the TV off. Then I push the power button again to turn it back on and the blue light comes on for a few seconds then goes off. The red light starts to blink rapidly. I also notice that I hear no fans at this point like I normally do when I turn the TV on.

Check the manual. Internal circuit board problem...contact dealer. Now that's not a good sign. So I unplug the TV from the power and let it sit as per the instructions in the manual. A few hours later I plug it back in and try to turn it on...same result. No fans turning on, blue light comes on for a few seconds then goes out and the red light starts blinking rapidly.

Since I'm not hearing the fan I'm thinking it's a main power board or something. I've not seen a description of this problem in these threads. I've seen blue and red light blinking or the picture going dim because of the bulb.

So I've go a call to a local repair shop to come out and take a look...and readying myself for sticker shock as the TV is not under warranty.

Anyone else had an issue like this?

Thanks

Ya, I did. Havn't fixed it yet since I bought an LCD flat panel to replace it. Would be interested in what you find was wrong with it.

Keep in mind that a new 61" 1080p version can be had for less than $2,000. Not sure how much it's worth to put into it to repair. Certainly not $1,000. But probably your repair costs will be much less than that. Certainly want to hear what you find out.

Tech came to the house last night. Took some measurment with a VOM at the ballast connections in the bulb compartment and said the ballast is bad. He also said he'd "repair" the power board (or something like that).

Then he started to relay stories of how he's repaired a few of these same TVs for the same problem. Hmmm...nice MTBF on those parts.

He was pretty straight forward with his answers and I asked what he thought the life expectancy of this particular set was and he said, without hesitation, "5 years...maybe 6". Then I asked how many repairs he thought that it would need in that time and he just said to replace the bulbs.

Well, the repairs are going to be $800. Parts & labor & pickup / delivery. I've seen this same set (HD-56G886) brand new for anywhere from $1K to $1.5K depending on who's hoops you want to jump through to get it.

The tech did take the TV with him. I was amazed at how light the thing was when we carried it out. I've never had to move it.

I'll update again when I get the set back. Estimate was about a week.

On a side note, the tech was saying something about a "software upgrade" that will be done on the set while he has it in for the repair. Anyone heard of this?

Waskly1977:

Thank you for providing that information. I believe your conclusions are also quite valid. IMO, the ballast board is also a weak area in the JVC LCOS sets, and although it does not fail as frequently as the lamp itself, they tend to take out other component areas attached to it such as the power board when they go.
The ballast board (QAL0676-001) from JVC online was quoted at $230.59, so it is an expensive repair no matter how you look at it.
My solution was to purchase an LCD flat panel for now, and perhaps repair the JVC later when there are more broken units available for parts.

I do not believe that "built-in obsolescence" is limited to JVC, in fact I am willing to bet that most of the HDTV's manufactured now have a fairly limited life expectancy. This disposable product paradigm is why I will never buy another HDTV from a tier 1 vendor. It’s just not worth paying for the enhanced build quality one would typically associate with a name brand product when it is simply not there.
Pricing of tier 1 products is competing closely with tier 2 and even tier 3 products in many cases. Its pretty obvious that in order to do this the name brands have had to cut some pretty huge corners.

on my 52Z575, i notice on ABC HD, the ABC HD lettering they put on the screen in the lower right corner is cut off a little bit.

anyone else ever have this problem?

I replaced my original bulb with a generic LTI lamp a few months ago, and its already getting dark, and now i have this problem with ABC HD, and the skin tones look a little on the orange/yellow side as well.
the overall picture quality is just not bright, sharp or crisp anymore

is this possibly all caused by the lamp going? or do i have more than one issue going on here?

thanks!

Probably a dirty mirror, thats about what happens when mine gets crudded up. I just automatically know that when the lamp goes out I also need to clean the mirror since it always gets dirty by the time I run though the typical (albeit pathetic) lamp life. My situation likely differs from yours since the set is located near the kitchen and the cooking fumes plate onto the mirror at a near constant rate. Due to that I have to clean the mirror at least twice a year. If you smoke I imagine you will be cleaning it more often than that.

Not sure about the lettering, I would consider it a feature. I hate those stupid logos, and they are getting worse, like SciFI includes a nice add on top of theirs now in addition to the moving garbage they curse us with when the normal barrage of advertisements are over.
If the networks had their way, there would be nothing but adds and paid advertisement content on every show with around 5 minutes of the actual program included. We need to push for Ala Carte so that the viewer can vote against this crap with their wallet.

Probably a dirty mirror, thats about what happens when mine gets crudded up. I just automatically know that when the lamp goes out I also need to clean the mirror since it always gets dirty by the time I run though the typical (albeit pathetic) lamp life. My situation likely differs from yours since the set is located near the kitchen and the cooking fumes plate onto the mirror at a near constant rate. Due to that I have to clean the mirror at least twice a year. If you smoke I imagine you will be cleaning it more often than that.

Not sure about the lettering, I would consider it a feature. I hate those stupid logos, and they are getting worse, like SciFI includes a nice add on top of theirs now in addition to the moving garbage they curse us with when the normal barrage of advertisements are over.
If the networks had their way, there would be nothing but adds and paid advertisement content on every show with around 5 minutes of the actual program included. We need to push for Ala Carte so that the viewer can vote against this crap with their wallet.

when you say you clean the mirror.. are you talking about the piece of glass that the lamp sits up against? or you have to take about the light engine to get to the actual mirrors to clean?
and what/how do you clean them?

i wish there was a tutorial out there for this with some screen shots maybe too

thanks!


EDIT: Well,it was the cheap LTI bulb.. i took it out and there was a big bulging blister in it.. just waiting to POP!

52g786 just got this tv from a buddy. He has blown 3 bulbs in 2 years. Which I read is a common problem. He put in a new bulb in about a month ago. And still had no picture, but has sound. He got pissed about it and went and got a new tv. So i offered to take this one. I put in a new bulb and hooked it up per the manual. I have a picture and sound but the piture has 1/4" or so green lines running up and down on it. And 4-5" left and right of the screen are solid gray/black. What could the problem be? I have it hooked up to dish network receiver.

I searched a ton of post. And did a self check. It shows TUN-NG9 and HD-NG9 and everything else ok. I don't have a HD receiver so that could explain the HD-NG9. But what could be the cause of the TUN-NG9?

My two year old 61Z866 unit has developed a pronounced uniform green tint (acutally more of a uniform green color - all whites appear green). After the unit warms up, and is cycled off and then on again (sometimes this requires several off-on cycles), the color problem will clear up, and the picture will appear bright and sharp with correct colors.

The unit receives a component signal from a Denon AVR receiver. I've tried changing the input from Input One to Input Two and have even tried a composit video signal with no effect. It has never been provided an HDMI signal. If verified that settings are all normal, and have unplugged the unit for four hours in order to reset any potential configuration issues.

The lamp was replaced 18 months ago and appears to be fine based on visual inspection. So, does anyone have an idea what might be causing this issue? It doesn't seem to correspond to the descriptions of the green splotch or HDMI green tint issues described elsewhere in this thread. Any suggestions or assistance would be much appreciated. Thanks.

My two year old 61Z866 unit has developed a pronounced uniform green tint (acutally more of a uniform green color - all whites appear green). After the unit warms up, and is cycled off and then on again (sometimes this requires several off-on cycles), the color problem will clear up, and the picture will appear bright and sharp with correct colors.

The unit receives a component signal from a Denon AVR receiver. I've tried changing the input from Input One to Input Two and have even tried a composit video signal with no effect. It has never been provided an HDMI signal. If verified that settings are all normal, and have unplugged the unit for four hours in order to reset any potential configuration issues.

The lamp was replaced 18 months ago and appears to be fine based on visual inspection. So, does anyone have an idea what might be causing this issue? It doesn't seem to correspond to the descriptions of the green splotch or HDMI green tint issues described elsewhere in this thread. Any suggestions or assistance would be much appreciated. Thanks.

I had the same problem on a Z series.
Possible a software reset would do the trick, but you can't do it at home. 18 months is close on the bulb, but that's easy to detect. The TV will begin to dim over 1-3 days before it goes black and the front light blinks.

Hello everyone. I'm having issues with my JVC that I can't seem to figure out. Here's hoping someone else has already been through and resolved this.:):confused:

My set is acting like it cannot hold an HD picture (or any picture for that matter). The picture always "jumped" when switching between HD and non-HD channels, but now it's doing it all the time. It can't seem to hold either a wide screen (HD) or a normal screen width(non HD) at all. Jumps between the two roughly every second or so, making it impossible to watch.
Any ideas? I've checked the format from the HD receiver and it matches with what the TV is set at.
Thanks in advance!:)

I had the same problem on a Z series.
Possible a software reset would do the trick, but you can't do it at home. 18 months is close on the bulb, but that's easy to detect. The TV will begin to dim over 1-3 days before it goes black and the front light blinks.

Thank you for the help thedeskE.

The bulb is good. I swapped in our ready spare and there was no change to the picture quality. Still the pervasive green color.

Quick follow-up: you mentioned reseting the software. Does that require the tech to take the TV to a service shop? Is it done using a PC or laptop? If so, is that something that an owner could do with the right software? And one final question, any other suggestions regarding troubleshooting I can do before the service tech gets here? I can already hear him saying that he'll have to replace the light engine so it would be helpful to rule out the really expensive components through some additional owner diagnostics. Thanks again!

My JVC TV has vertical green lines on it almost constantly. They used to come and go but have not disappeared for 4 months now. I have searched through the forums and have not found an answer to this problem so I am posting it here hoping that someone will have some knowledge about it. I have checked out the service menu and everything come up OK.

http://www.jeffschoch.com/jvcgreenlines.jpg

Any help would be appreciated. I have called support for JVC but they just refer me to local repair shop.

When i did my (lining of black velvet mod ) on the inside of my jvc hd70fh96 i found that my mirror was soooo dusty/dirty. I cleaned it a perfectly as i could. Took me like 10 min. , i made sure there was no streaks , and when i fired her up...... WOW , i felt like i had a new TV. And i didnt even do a bulb change. It was alittle brighter and sooo much sharper. I clean mine once every 2 months now.

When i did my (lining of black velvet mod ) on the inside of my jvc hd70fh96 i found that my mirror was soooo dusty/dirty. I cleaned it a perfectly as i could. Took me like 10 min. , i made sure there was no streaks , and when i fired her up...... WOW , i felt like i had a new TV. And i didnt even do a bulb change. It was alittle brighter and sooo much sharper. I clean mine once every 2 months now.

Can you describe how one cleans the mirror? Is it difficult?
How big is it? What cleaners do you recommend? Windex?
Thanks.

I've had issues with my HD52G886 set for some time now. When the scene is dark, the background would get real dark for a few seconds, then change to the proper display. As the scene would pan around or switch from a bright scene to a dark scene, the background would always have problems displaying the background properly, and it drives me nuts. It occurs on all inputs, DVD (HDMI), DirectvHD, video games, etc. I finally had some time off this week and had a service tech come out to look at it. It was throwing 5 different errors, which he wasn't exactly sure on as he had to check with JVC. I called today to see if they found out what the problem is, and they're saying I need a new digital board. They say it's going to cost $500 to fix. :eek: Searching through this thread, I assume this may be about right, and I'm assuming that the digital board is actually the hdmi board?

screwedinlincoln,

I had the EXACT same problem with my 52" JVC. It is a light engine problem and my extended warranty covered it in which they had to replace the entire light engine to fix the problem. Hope you are covered.

Is anyone have a problem with the green blob/tint on the screen with that latest 1080p model JVCs??? I am having a problem with my 52" first generation set and replacing the light engine sometimes fixes it but is not a 100% reliable fix. I am thinking of getting a new 1080p set but I don't want to bother if the new sets exhibit the same problems.

Woops, wrong owner thread. Sorry guys.

Just done the HDMI reset and as I am one of those people who are wary of going into the service menu I was suprised how easy it was to do following the instructions from an earlier poster. The HDMI was disabled I believe when an authorised service agent replaced the light engine, you'd think JVC would have informed the agent about the HDMI sensor. My bulb finally blew after 18 months and was pleased by the response I got from ConsumerCare the authorised JVC warrantors, they refunded me the shipping as well as the bulb.

I have a JVC model HD-56G787. It was purchased in 8/06 and has approximately 2300 hours on it. I've been reading through this thread for quite a while today and I've yet to come up with a solid answer. I have these "smudges" or "blotches" that look like fingerprints on the screen. There has been more and more appearing and they're basically all over the screen and not limited to one section. I've cleaned it numerous times with non-ammonia window cleaner so I know it isn't dirty. Some folks in this thread describe something similar but there doesn't seem to be a conclusive answer. Can someone lead me in the right direction? Thanks in advance.

hrbib21, I have also had smudges that show up on a white background and have previously dusted the lens cover with a soft brush to some success, but what I have noticed that after getting a replacement bulb the screen is perfect which leads me to think that the problem may lay with the surface of the bulb rather than the lens cover or mirror, perhaps a more knowledgeable poster would know if this may be the problem and how to rectify it.

I have a JVC HD62G786 TV that is driving me nuts. At first I thought it was a bad DirectTV receiver, but I was just sent another and it's doing the same darned thing:mad:!
The picture is jumping between resolutions and blacking out in between each setting. I tried resetting the HDMI input from instructions on here (THANKS!), but no results. The service menu self test reveals the following:
TUN: NG9
HDMI: NG9
Sync M: NG9
S: NG
AI0: NG9

Everything else reads okay. Any ideas from the experts out there?:confused:
The TV was bought and manufactured in 2005.
Thanks in advance!

Am a violating some sort of protocol on this boart preventing a response?
Or could it be my problem is something no one has heard of before:confused:

So only HDMI is effected? Is there any HDMI switchign in between the source and display?

I have the same TV and DirecTV service (an HR20) and have not had any problems except during channel change. It would take several seconds to settle down with the TV changing resolutions to match the changing resolutions on channels. To make the channel change go faster I set the output everything at 720p so that the TV did not have to changs resolution.

I have recently been investigating calibrating my 61z575. Perusing through the service manual shows some settings that are termed "fixed" and initially set at 0. The manual is explicit in that these are not to be adjusted. Are these truly supposed to be 0, or are they adjustable? The reason I ask is most of mine are NOT at 0 but some other value. Wondering if I should set all back to 0 and go about calibrating the display according to the service manual instructions, or if these are values set at the factory. They are changeable, but I have not noticed any visible difference when changing some of the values.

I've searched but can't find a definite answer. At what point is the digital optical output active? Can it be used for HDMI sources that come IN to the tv?

I'm not even seeing a red light inside the port on the tv, wonder if it ever worked.

Thanks

HD-56G886

Ok ive spent three hours reading through the whole thread and have come to no avail. :( Could someone whho has a ps3 and uses JVC HD-52Z575 52" HD-ILA HDTV-ready tv please post the perfect settings? ive spent hours changing and configuring but i just dont think i have the ps3 games looking at their best. :( could someone please post the settings their using on their tv for their ps3?? :o thank you so much! :)

The settings on one TV may not be the best on another TV. Too many variables.

You might want to get HD Video Essentials and calibrate your set from the PS3. It's out in Blu-ray now.

I have loved my hd-70g886 for over 3 years but now that it seems JVC (or anyone?) will not be making the lcos sets, what is everyone thinking for their next set?

the whites on my z set look really yellow. :/ im using a z model... anyone got any tips?

I have loved my hd-70g886 for over 3 years but now that it seems JVC (or anyone?) will not be making the lcos sets, what is everyone thinking for their next set?

I'm in the same boat. I like my 52 inch G series but I am starting to want something bigger and more modern i.e. dynamic contrast, multiple HDMI, etc. I'm hoping someone will import the latest generation of LED and laser DLPs here into Canada so I can get a look at them but realistically I guess I'll be waiting for the promised new series of larger LCD flat-panels supposed to be coming out of the new generation plants starting in 2010. I'm also paying a little more attention to plasma than I did in the past.

By the way, LCoS is still very much alive in front-projectors, but that technology doesn't work too well for me.

Chuck, I suspect your bulb may be about to go, if your settings haven't changed.

I love mine. And have a spare bulb. Might buy another 1 or 2 spare bulbs. But this TV will move to a secondary location somewhere. I don't like plasmas, but that might be my next bedroom TV. I really lust after the Samsung A650. But at those prices,.... Well, I'll wait.

My bulb just blew this week, now I see a greenish coloration in the upper right corner I hadn't noticed before.

Kinda looks like a speaker is too close to the screen but I have Polks and they didn't effect the tv before....

anybody have experience with this?
Had to use my spare bulb...who has the cheapest replacements?
Rob

nikknightt,

I have been having the same exact problem, since I changed my bulb, so far no body can give me an answer, however I have only posted on ecoustics. I cannot offer any help but you are not alone. Some suggested it was a light-engine problem, but I already had that and this is not the same at all.

the whites on my z set look really yellow. :/ im using a z model... anyone got any tips?


I have seen this on my z set for two different reasons
Contrast too high,
bulb bad

Ok thanks guys thanks for your replies. yes my whites look very yellow... also it has a red tint aswell i haven't changed any settings except for turning off color management, dynamic gamma, and smart picture... my blues look red almost pink. :'( i tried changing the rgb settings in the service menu and that did absolutely nothing. i got as a rent to own so its no telling how long someone else had it before me without getting the bulb changed... well guess its time to call jvc! or rentway.

OK, here's one. My 52G886 is almost 3 yr old. I love it. Had one bulb replacement when the set was 1 yr old and that's it. Recently I discovered something weird.

In the upper left hand corner of the screen there is a black line about 1/4" think. It is about 1" down from the top and 4" from the left. It makes a right triangle with the corner of the set being the 90 degree angle. It is there when the TV is on and disappears when the set turns off.

It looks to me like there is a gasket behind the screen that perhaps fell out of its slot and is now hanging behind the screen, blocking the light coming the lamp. To test this I jiggled the TV slightly at that corner and the line moved. Moving the TV anywhere else does not move the line.

Is there a gasket (about a 1/4" thick - or at least casts a 1/4" thick shadow) behind the screen that could, if it fell down slightly, block the projected image? If so, what can be done about it?

I'd suspect a hair or bit of cobweb on the lens cover. Have you pulled the vent access doors to look? You may need to have the set on to see it. When you have the doors off, be sure to blow out the filter holes.

I use a feather duster to clean the inside of my set - CAREFULLY.

Found some interesting info on this website.
http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/2/452344.html

here's an excerpt from the message board

I as a servicer get many DLP / LCD Projection TV's in for service. 80% of the problem is the lamp. However, for every 1 time that a customer brings me a Samsung or Sony brand TV in for lamp replacement only... I get 4 to 5 JVC and Panasonic sets.. From my personal experience, it seems like the problem really isn't the TV manufacturer but the lack of R&D on the UHP manufacturing end. VERY RARELY have I seen MATSUSHITA lamps from JVC or SONY just "stop functioning" from extensive use or wear... They are almost ALL BLOWN! Blown meaning the filament being exploded or lamp imploding.

I fail to believe that the design of the TV causes the lamp to "blow" every time. Most likely the filament being manufactured by Philips is a superior filament that is more resistent to heat and wear.

Most of the newer high end TV's by Samsung, Sony, and now Hitachi (has switched to philips exclusively) use Philips brand lamps and to me it seems like the failure rate is much less.. i would go as far as saying 60% to 70% less.

I have now purchased the PHILIPS brand JVC lamps from Discount-Merchant.com to see if it get better results. So far so good. Just by the feel of the box and the Philips logo I feel more confident in the product.

Discount-Merchant.com has bare bulbs for about $130.
Anybody know how to load one into the enclosure?
----------------------------------
Found it. How to replace the bulb in the enclosure:
http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/jvc/TS-CL110UAA.php

Interesting article from fixyourdlp.com
http://fixyourdlp.com/blog/2007/02/15/original-or-aftermarket-we-like-original-ts-cl110uaa-ts-cl110u/

Philips Lamp review:
http://www.takingstuffapart.com/articles/1621/1/The-Philips-solution-is-herePhilips-TS-CL100UAA-JVC-D-ILA-Lamps/Page1.html

"With over 2,200 hours clocked and counting, our Demo JVCs are processing Hi Def cartons mornings and nights. The picture is still as good as it was three months ago and most importantly, NO FAILED LAMPS!"

Interesting. I find the Philips brand compact fluorescents to fail much sooner than other brands. Even their incandescents seem to die faster. And I'm still on my original bulb in my JVC. Got a spare in a drawer, though.

I thought the whole LCoS RPTV thing would last longer. Tried to find one lately? I went looking for one in the 50" or so range. No gots.

...I thought the whole LCoS RPTV thing would last longer. ...

Both Sony and JVC are still selling a lot of LCoS front-projectors. But in RPTV, The key seems to be reliability. The 1080p LCoS chips sold by both Sony and JVC have had a fairly high failure rate, with blotches and other color issues. Probably not as bad as you would assume reading this forum, since complainers tend to be noisier than contented owners, and we've had a number of angry campaigners. But enough to give the nod to DLP.

In electronics in general, solid-state normally works best, which means that one would expect that LCoS would triumph over DLP, which relies on moving mirrors. The fact that this hasn't happened in RPTV is I think a testimony to the quality of Texas Instruments production processes. But in the bigger picture, solid state is winning out, with LCD flat-panels taking over the display market in general, at least so far.

Yes, so it seems. I expect plasma to go into another decline. OLED might make it. DLP might be the last RPTV technology to struggle on against the thin direct view technologies. The bright side, I suppose, is that the predicted bulb shortage and consequent high prices never materialized. I have one spare bulb on hand. Not sure if I'll buy another one- by the time it might be prudent, they might be out of production.

I found some leftover JVC DILAs in the 50"-56" range, but they weren't priced competitively. Had to pass. At those prices, I'd expect a 70" 1080p unit.

... I have one spare bulb on hand. Not sure if I'll buy another one- by the time it might be prudent, they might be out of production....

I can't see that happening. Lamps are made by a number of manufacturers in a vast variety. Look at the Osram website. There's millions of TVs out that need them, so there's big money to be made in supplying replacement lamps for many years. If not by the big names (Osram and Phillips), then by smaller makers selling over the Internet. Quality might be a question in such a case, tho.

Vacuum tubes for vintage radios are still available, indeed there's a thriving if modest industry for them, so I would certainly expect RPTV lamps to be available for a long time.

BTW, are a lot of the vacuum tubes still coming out of Russia?

I am still on my first bulb, 3 yrs now 52g786 (knocking wood) but have been watching this site in case I need a spare. http://www.discount-merchant.com/product-p/jvc-ts-cl110uaa-new.htm&Click=2 I still have 2 yrs left on my extended warranty. I also watch their stock level, sometimes its 100 and other times its 0.

BTW, are a lot of the vacuum tubes still coming out of Russia?

I think this type of manufacture is shifting to East Asia simply because of the number of firms and skilled workers. The point about any of this kind of opportunistic manufacture is a) proven design (meaning minimal R&D costs or risks of product failure) b) known market conditions and c) adequate sales volume to write off tooling costs. Mercury-vapor hot lamps certainly qualify on all these counts.

You're probably right. Hopefully political events won't cut off supplies in the future.

anyone still have one of these models? its been pretty quiet around here..

My 52Z575 is acting kinda weird.. i am noticing that the very bottom of the picture is getting cut off on some channels. its more noticeable on news and sports channels that have a ticker going.

Does anyone think there might be some settings in the service manual that may address this?

I am thinking it may also be a warping bulb perhaps also.

the whites on my z set look really yellow. :/ im using a z model... anyone got any tips?

Your not just seeing things they are indeed yellowish. Had the same thing happen to mine when the tech came out he said the optical block needed to be changed. They just replaced it thursday and now it looks like new.

Cascade issue or just bad timing...

About 3 weeks ago we upgraded to the new directv hddvr box. the next day our bulb blew - broken glass in lamp. 1st bulb failure time after about 4 years of owning the hd-61z786. no light warning it was aging. I figure it had about 2400 hours on it.

Replaced bulb - worked fine for a few weeks. Now we are loosing our digital input. Flashing green and tries to work, over and over. Sometimes it stabilizes for a day and then starts up again. Bummer.... we have regular inputs, just digital signal stabilization issue.

Any suggestions? Time to visit a shop? Could this be a bigger issue I should be aware of? Any feedback would be appreciated. Do love the DH!

thanks-
michael

Might check the sat box with another TV, to determine if it's the TV or the DVR.

I tried the box on another tv - works fine. I even tried my old sat box playing some tevo'd recordings through the HDMI input and it had the same green flashing. I am able to send a signal through the standard analog inputs without a problem, but want the HD. I guess I'll have to bring in a repair tech. Any suggestions for one in San Francisco?

My HD 61z575 optical engine died 2 weeks ago. $1300 part plus labor. Obviously I did not do this and bought a new Samsung DLP 67a750.

I tried JVC support to see if they would help me out with this issue. The TV is 4 years old but I dont think it should die so quickly. I went up 3 levels of support only to get denied.

Anybody have luck with this issue? It seems to be a fairly common issue with the optical engine dying. I've got a dead TV that will sit in my garage or get sold on craigslist for next to nothing. I'm taking one last shot at anyone that may have a solution.

My HD 61z575 optical engine died 2 weeks ago. $1300 part plus labor. Obviously I did not do this and bought a new Samsung DLP 67a750.

I tried JVC support to see if they would help me out with this issue. The TV is 4 years old but I dont think it should die so quickly. I went up 3 levels of support only to get denied.

Anybody have luck with this issue? It seems to be a fairly common issue with the optical engine dying. I've got a dead TV that will sit in my garage or get sold on craigslist for next to nothing. I'm taking one last shot at anyone that may have a solution.

Seems to be a common problem. I just get P.O.'d when a part cost $1300 for a TV, when in my case I paid $1900 4 years ago for the whole thing. I thought it stupid then when I paid $175 for a 5 year warranty but if my TV dies, I think I am covered :eek: not looking forward to that battle. My original bulb blew in the first 3 months, replacement is still working (knocking on wood). Set still has a bright clear picture.

Mine's fine, good as new. Original bulb, too. Rec'd April 05. I haven't heard of failures other than these recent posts. I daresay most are still in everyday use, and will be for years to come. I know that's not comforting to people who have had failures- but those failures still seem rather uncommon.

I just did a search on light engine and see failures dating back to 2006.

My company has installed allot of home theater systems over the last fifteen years. I've noticed that rear projection systems have the shortest lifespans, regardless of the manufacturer. Its the light engine that usually goes out. I've seen plasmas & thin LCDs loose power supplies. Engineers are designing these things to sell at a reasonable price point and hopefully survive long enough to be enjoyed until the newest and greatest evolution in technology is rolled out. I'm sorry to sound so jaded, just sharing my experience. I'm now recommending industrial units for those willing to spend more and get better components & warranties.

All that being said, our JVC unit that stays on about 10 hrs/day has only needed a new bulb.

the whites on my z set look really yellow. :/ im using a z model... anyone got any tips?

Your optical block is bad, just had mine replace about three weeks ago. Also have a 60" Mits and after the new optical block on the JVC (56") it looks as good as new.

the whites on my z set look really yellow. :/ im using a z model... anyone got any tips?

Your optical block (light engine) is bad, just had mine replace about three weeks ago. Also have a 60" Mits and after the new optical block on the JVC (56") it looks as good as new.

Your optical block (light engine) is bad, just had mine replace about three weeks ago. Also have a 60" Mits and after the new optical block on the JVC (56") it looks as good as new.

Gee, another bad JVC optical block/engine. And they deny there is a widespread problem with this on this model?

Sorry, Im pissed as mine blew and I have a giant brick of a TV in my garage. I refuse to pay $1300 to replace it. My set is 4 years old. After 3 levels of support they still wont do anything. I understand its 4 years old but come on, this degree of failure should not happen so quickly.

I heard a "pop" and my 61z786 went black last night after two years. Luckily I purchased a extended warranty from Fry's when I bought it. The red and blue lights are blinking together with no sound. Does this happen when only the bulb dies?

Yep. I looked it up in the manual. When both blink together, bad bulb or it's not seated properly. Pg 99 & 92. If they blink alternately, it's overheat.

Here are the two places I know to get bulbs:
JVC (http://www.jvcservice.com/store/ProductDetail.asp?Part=TS-CL110UAA)
PartStore (http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch.aspx?PartNumber=TS-CL110UAA&x=34&y=18)

Let us know how this works out for you. I keep a spare on hand; glad I've never had to use it.

Thanks Navychop for the info.
I am glad it is not something more serious. The bulb costs more than my extended warranty and the warranty is supposed to cover bulbs. But if they come out and want to charge me more, it is good to have an alternative. Hopefully I can get it going before college football this weekend.

OK Ive had my 52" JVC DILA set for 3 years. Still using the original bulb and no problems. I am thinkng of upgrading to a Blu Ray disc player. Is any one using a blu ray player with this set? Since this set is not full 1080i I am wondering if I will see any significant improvement over my upscaling DVD player. Any comparisons or recomendations would be very help full.

Thanks

I see improvement on my 61" 720p with my PS3 as a Blu-ray player.

I see improvement on my 61" 720p with my PS3 as a Blu-ray player.

I do as well. In fact I see a pretty significant difference.

I do as well. In fact I see a pretty significant difference.

Very significant difference with 56" 720p.

My saga ended last week on my bulb issue. Frys bungled the beginning of the warranty claim. They had to "put my number in the computer so that it would pop up in the computer in CA". After a week of getting no information by calling several people in the service dept and leaving messages for the store manager with no one calling me back, I visited the store. I had a discussion with the service manager and asked her to get the store manager. I was calm but determined and he came over being very apologetic. Evidently there had been a discussion about my claim between him and the service manager previously. None of the regular service people wanted to handle me so I am not sure what was in the computer log on the claim. The store manager ended up giving me total credit for a nice Christmas present I was shopping for (I did not know electric toothbrushes were that expensive) and he sent someone to install it that night.
Interestingly I got a call from the company in CA that normally handles the bulbs for the warranty the next Monday to arrange delivery for "the bulb" that had already been installed. I suppose I should have told them to mail it anyway but instead I told them that it had been delivered and installed two days before so the closed the claim.
All in all it took eleven days to get the bulb but I felt like the store manager had gone beyond what I had expected and was a stand up kind of guy. In the beginning- poor handling of the claim but in the end I think he did his best to make amends. The tv looks good with the new bulb.

Let us hope we get many years out of our LCoS units. I was really hoping to buy a 70" JVC DiLA one day....... :(

If your time horizon is more than 2 years, new generations of large flat-panel LCDs, many LED-lit, may fit your needs perfectly. There's also Neopdp from Panasonic.

Yep. Love to get a cheap OLED in 60 plus inches, but I'm not sure I'll live that long, let alone the JVC.

I also have a 52" Samsung A650 LCD. I really like it, but there's something about it I can't quite put my finger on. I've dimmed it a bit, will have to calibrate it.

My saga ended last week on my bulb issue. Frys bungled the beginning of the warranty claim. They had to "put my number in the computer so that it would pop up in the computer in CA". After a week of getting no information by calling several people in the service dept and leaving messages for the store manager with no one calling me back, I visited the store. I had a discussion with the service manager and asked her to get the store manager. I was calm but determined and he came over being very apologetic. Evidently there had been a discussion about my claim between him and the service manager previously. None of the regular service people wanted to handle me so I am not sure what was in the computer log on the claim. The store manager ended up giving me total credit for a nice Christmas present I was shopping for (I did not know electric toothbrushes were that expensive) and he sent someone to install it that night.
Interestingly I got a call from the company in CA that normally handles the bulbs for the warranty the next Monday to arrange delivery for "the bulb" that had already been installed. I suppose I should have told them to mail it anyway but instead I told them that it had been delivered and installed two days before so the closed the claim.
All in all it took eleven days to get the bulb but I felt like the store manager had gone beyond what I had expected and was a stand up kind of guy. In the beginning- poor handling of the claim but in the end I think he did his best to make amends. The tv looks good with the new bulb.

I'm not sure if all companies are like this but with Fry's you pretty much have to go to the top to get anything done and then they do the RIGHT thing. I bought a floor model Samsung from them this past week. I got a great deal but no box, paperwork or cables. I was told, "You get the TV and the remote for it and that's it." Considering this I went ahead and bought their 5 year warranty which was quite reasonable at $130. Anyway after messing with the remote for about a week and things not seeming right I looked the remote directions up on the net to find they gave me the wrong remote. I called in to complain and told them that on Samsung's web site the proper remote was only $30 (pretty amazing if you ask me). To make a long story short, I was told by a sales guy and customer service manager that a floor model means whatever they give me whether they told me the remote was just A remore or THE remote and basically to buy a universal remote. I FINALLY got to the top manager of the customer service and they credited my purchase for the $30 for a remote. The bad thing is that this was not about $30. I can spend in an hour on lunch with a friend. This was about the fact that the lower level employees were ready to lose a customer who spends thousands in their store for a mere $30. Not to mention that I believe I was right. It seems that it is becomming more and more common that you have to go through 3 levels of people who have NO CLUE as to what customer service is and threaten to completely take your business across the street before anyone cares. I guess it may be common practice because 90% of the people would have accepted poor service and moved on. I just find it concerning and the fact that you had your issue at Fry's prompted me to post. As with you, in the end I'm happy that they did the right thing but I think it is cruddy that I had to go through all that time and frustration to get what should have been done right away.

YEP! But sometimes it works out. A few years ago, I was at BB, trying to buy a new SD TV. Very crowded. Finally got some help, buy THIS one. After long warehouse search, etc, no more available. So, OK, I'll by THAT one. Long warehouse search, always compounded by sales critters going to help others and "dumping" me, no such animal. OK, how about THIS 36" JVC? Ok, I'll find out. Turned it over to another sales critter, went to supper. We're waiting, waiting, going nuts. Guy came back from supper, and said "You're still here?" in a good way. Turns out, selection #3 was not available either. OH, steam building. Good, just fed, sales critter said "wait here, I'll be right back." Soon, he came back, after talking with god, or manager, or brain and authority equipped figure, and said "Here- take this next upgraded model, which we actually HAVE, for the same price as the one (third one) we wanted." We did. Took home 36" JVC SD TV with PiP, which we have still to date never used. But it's a nice 36" SDTV, and will be with us for years yet. Long after the 27" Sony SDTV has been passed on.

Yep, I went thru a lot, but they "made me whole" in the end, even if I never used the upgraded features.

And so I bought a JVC DiLA, and wish I could buy another one.

Well, i guess my story is not the only one. I have the JVC Model HD-52G886, and up until about 4 months ago, was just fine. Bulb went out, I called my dealer (who sells JVC tvs), bought the JVC OEM bulb, just to make sure there were no problems if something was to go wrong, and then 3 months later, my picture starts to turn black in the middle. I call my dealer, to let him know the bulb was going bad, he said that he thinks its the light engine.

What the hell is the light engine?

Well, I had a technician look at the tv (which I'm not sure if he really did or not), but he says that the voltage from the power source going into the "ballast board" was only getting 90-95 volts. Coming from a 110-120 Volt source (My wall), that seems a little weird.

Is this normal? Is it supposed to be that low?

Well, needless to say, I had already ordered a new bulb (after being told that my bulb only had a 90 day warranty, but I still sent it to JVC to try), put the new bulb in and it still looks the same.

Well, I dont want to spend $800 - $1000 for a tv that I paid $2000 for. I would just save up and buy a NEW NON-JVC tv.

Can someone maybe help me out with this? I can replace the part, just need to know what to look for and how much it will cost me.

Thanks for the help.

From what I've seen light engine failures usually manifest themselves as color blobs, usually green. This does sound like it could be a ballast, which is far less expensive. It's certainly worth further discussions with the tech.

The light engine is the part that generates the picture. The key component is the LCoS chip. It constitutes the bulk of the cost of the TV.

My G-series is well into its 4th year and good as new at 14,000 hours. Yours may well be worth fixing.

Which tech would you be referring too? Someone in here, or goto another shop here where I live? I consulted one of the authorized JVC repair shops, and they said they would look at it for free, problem is, they are 30 miles from me. I dont have the time for that unfortunately. $75 is what it will take for them to come to my house, but I dont want to spend that to find out that it'll cost me $1000, ya know? I was hoping that someone had the same issue, so I could go that route. I know that no one can fix something that they dont have in front of them, but just hoping.

Thanks for the reply. Maybe someone else could post a similar problem with a solution.

Well, it finally happened.

Just after New Year's eve, my bulb blew. I was out of the room at the time. My wife says she heard a loud pop, the screen went black, and the lights started flashing. No dimming was noted prior to burnout. I could not turn the set off. When I tried, it seemed to pause and turn itself back on, even after I waited several minutes. I unplugged it.

My 61 incher was installed 4/15/05, so I got almost 4 years out of the bulb. But only 4,818 hours. IIRC, they're supposed to be good for 6,000 hours. Oh, well. I bought a spare lamp assembly to keep on hand in August of 07, so I was ready to go. I think I might just buy the inner bulb this time around, and replace it, keeping the housing from the blown bulb.

8 years out of this technology won't be bad, but I'd rather keep it longer. Maybe with another spare, I'll get 12 or more years. At some point, I'll move it to a secondary, less frequently used location, thereby extending it's life. Or sell it. I wanted to buy a 70" dila, but that's history. In any event, my wife has informed me she wants the next one to hang on the wall. Who knows what technology will be available in another 4 years? OLED?

I note that the FAQ that discussed the bulb life, and the user manual, have been removed from the JVC site. Not an encouraging sign.

I wonder how many of us are still using their dila HDTVs as their primary TV.

Well, it finally happened.

Just after New Year's eve, my bulb blew. I was out of the room at the time. My wife says she heard a loud pop, the screen went black, and the lights started flashing. No dimming was noted prior to burnout. I could not turn the set off. When I tried, it seemed to pause and turn itself back on, even after I waited several minutes. I unplugged it.

My 61 incher was installed 4/15/05, so I got almost 4 years out of the bulb. But only 4,818 hours. IIRC, they're supposed to be good for 6,000 hours. Oh, well. I bought a spare lamp assembly to keep on hand in August of 07, so I was ready to go. I think I might just buy the inner bulb this time around, and replace it, keeping the housing from the blown bulb.

8 years out of this technology won't be bad, but I'd rather keep it longer. Maybe with another spare, I'll get 12 or more years. At some point, I'll move it to a secondary, less frequently used location, thereby extending it's life. Or sell it. I wanted to buy a 70" dila, but that's history. In any event, my wife has informed me she wants the next one to hang on the wall. Who knows what technology will be available in another 4 years? OLED?

I note that the FAQ that discussed the bulb life, and the user manual, have been removed from the JVC site. Not an encouraging sign.

I wonder how many of us are still using their dila HDTVs as their primary TV.

I am still hanging in there with my 52G786 as my primary TV. Still has a great picture. Funny, I was just on the other thread and looking up the instructions on how to confirm lamp operating time, since it has been a while since I last checked. Was going to do that tonight and see where I was. My set has been in operation since 7/14/05, the original bulb blew @ 100 hrs, 2nd one replaced by JVC is still in service. :D I have about 1.5 yrs left on my warranty. p.s. Do you have a source for just the inner bulb??? I have only seen the complete assy lately!

Well, it finally happened.

Just after New Year's eve, my bulb blew. I was out of the room at the time. My wife says she heard a loud pop, the screen went black, and the lights started flashing. No dimming was noted prior to burnout. I could not turn the set off. When I tried, it seemed to pause and turn itself back on, even after I waited several minutes. I unplugged it.

My 61 incher was installed 4/15/05, so I got almost 4 years out of the bulb. But only 4,818 hours. IIRC, they're supposed to be good for 6,000 hours. Oh, well. I bought a spare lamp assembly to keep on hand in August of 07, so I was ready to go. I think I might just buy the inner bulb this time around, and replace it, keeping the housing from the blown bulb.

8 years out of this technology won't be bad, but I'd rather keep it longer. Maybe with another spare, I'll get 12 or more years. At some point, I'll move it to a secondary, less frequently used location, thereby extending it's life. Or sell it. I wanted to buy a 70" dila, but that's history. In any event, my wife has informed me she wants the next one to hang on the wall. Who knows what technology will be available in another 4 years? OLED?

I note that the FAQ that discussed the bulb life, and the user manual, have been removed from the JVC site. Not an encouraging sign.

I wonder how many of us are still using their dila HDTVs as their primary TV.
I am still using mine as my primary tv. (56") Mine is from early August 05'. My first bulb blew June 06', was not happy! :mad: My second bulb though, has done all I have asked of it. It's still going, 2 1/2 years of heavy use. The lamp timer (4500 hours, right?) was reset sometime around last summer, so it's probably getting close to 6,000 hours. I have one spare bulb, I hope I get at least 2 1/2 years total out of these 2 bulbs yet. It's depressing going into stores and see no RPTVs available, and you get 2 choices: reasonably priced 52" or lower sized flat panels, or 60" and larger flat panels that are way more expensive than most are willing to spend. I hope I can get a reasonably priced 56" or larger tv of WHATEVER type when my bulbs go.

p.s. Do you have a source for just the inner bulb??? I have only seen the complete assy lately!

Uh oh. I haven't looked yet. I thought it was mentioned earlier in this thread, and was going to search. Maybe I can look around this weekend.

If you find out anything, please post it here, as will I.

Uh oh. I haven't looked yet. I thought it was mentioned earlier in this thread, and was going to search. Maybe I can look around this weekend.

If you find out anything, please post it here, as will I.

Some quick searching on the web found out that the bulb itself is not that much cheaper than the whole assembly. Best lamp price = $150, best assembly price $155. They were Phillips brand. (they) claimed that is what JVC is now using.

Some quick searching on the web found out that the bulb itself is not that much cheaper than the whole assembly. Best lamp price = $150, best assembly price $155. They were Phillips brand. (they) claimed that is what JVC is now using.

Yeah, $155 is the cheapest I have found the whole assembly too. My original bulb started getting really dark after about 1 year of service. I bought a new one (Phillips) from here (http://www.discount-merchant.com/product-p/jvc-ts-cl110uaa-new.htm&Click=2) and it has worked flawlessly for the past ~3 years. I think I gave a little more than $155 when I bought mine though.

Very significant difference with 56" 720p.

Just a quick question, what resolution are you (or anyone else for that matter :) ) sending to the display from the BlueRay player? 1080i or 720p? Thanks in advance!

1080

Just a quick question, what resolution are you (or anyone else for that matter :) ) sending to the display from the BlueRay player? 1080i or 720p? Thanks in advance!

I send 720p from BD, HD-DVD, and my XBOX 360. That is the native resolution for my 61".

My tv often goes black with flashing lights. I think it's blue and red lights together. When it happens I turn off my TV, wait for the fan to stop (the lights stay flashing), and then I unplug it. When I plug it back in, it will turn on and work normally again until the next time.

Any ideas what it might be?

My tv often goes black with flashing lights. I think it's blue and red lights together. When it happens I turn off my TV, wait for the fan to stop (the lights stay flashing), and then I unplug it. When I plug it back in, it will turn on and work normally again until the next time.

Any ideas what it might be?
It sounds like your ballast is going. Mine went black with the flashing lights a total of three times before it wouldn't turn on again. Just got it fixed this week. $230 for the part and $200 for the labor.

Well, just as I expected. I had an authorized JVC Repair shop inspect the television for me, and of course my worst fears were realized. They called and informed me that my Light Engine was going bad. Great. Well, fortunately the other tech that looked at it for me, informed me of some news that might be helpful. (crossing fingers) He says that he worked on a Samsung (I believe it was that brand) who was having video problems, and he found out the the main chip inside it's light engine was loose. Not sure if it's built the same way, but he says that this chip was directly under the "glass housing" where the lamp shines through, and it must have gotten hot, cause the soldering had come loose. I can only hope that he can find something as easy as that for me, or else I will be posting a JVC Television on here for parts! $1263.13 was the qoute I got from the authorized repair shop, which I will NOT be paying, since I only paid $2000 for the t.v. As soon as I learn of what the issue is, I will post it.

Thank you for the update.

Just a quick question, what resolution are you (or anyone else for that matter :) ) sending to the display from the BlueRay player? 1080i or 720p? Thanks in advance!

My Blu-Ray player is a PS3. If I remember correctly, there is a problem with outputting 720p from the PS3. I have mine set to 1080i.

Regardless of what player you have, I would recommend viewing both 720p and 1080i and pick the one that looks best to you.

My Blu-Ray player is a PS3. If I remember correctly, there is a problem with outputting 720p from the PS3. I have mine set to 1080i.

Regardless of what player you have, I would recommend viewing both 720p and 1080i and pick the one that looks best to you.

I haven't heard of the 720p output issue. I use a PS3 for BD too. I am sending 720p and I haven't had any problems so far. <knock on wood>.

Same here.

I think you're thinking of some early games that were having some display problems, since been fixed.

There might have been an update to fix it.

It's been a while but when set to 720p over HDMI to a 720p front projector BD movies looked like 480i/p.

I'll have to check it out and see if I like 720p any better than 1080i.

Think my bulb is going, picture seems darker and tomorrow I'm having a SuperBowl party. Not sure if I'll be able to find a replacement on Sunday. How long typically before the bulb blows after first seeing darker? Anyone in N-NW Chicago burbs have a spare bulb they'd be willing to sell me?
thx, don

Well, it's too late now. Please let us know if it blew. I keep a spare on hand.

I replaced it before it blew. I was able to find a bulb at Fry's 30 miles away - they had 1 left. I do still have extended warranty left so I'm ordering a replacement now to keep as a backup.

don

Thanks for letting us know.

I have a brand new lamp bought from JVC, still in the shipping box for the JVC HD56G886.

If you are interested, PM me.

It says your not receiving PM's.

It says your not receiving PM's.

My fault. Please try again.

Hi,

I have an HD52G586. I use the TV speakers as my home theater center channel with the RCA input on the back of my TV from my A/V receiver.

I recently hooked up an upconverting DVD player to the HDMI port on the TV. The DVD player is also hooked up to my home theater receiver using digital coax, the same as my old DVD player was.

When watching the new DVD player I noticed that I was no longer getting the center channel sound from my TV. The rest of my home theater speakers work fine. I haven't changed any configuration or connections on my A/V receiver (other than hooking up the digital coax cable to the new DVD player) or the settings on the TV. I called my local JVC tech support but that went nowhere.

Anyone else have this problem? Has anyone gotten the center channel input to work when using the HDMI input on the TV?

I've turned it off on mine. You're much better off with a separate center speaker.

Monday I asked my wife to tell me if she noticed anything weird about the TV. I thought it had been getting noticeably dim over the last few days and much worse Monday evening. She couldn't tell. My second bulb blew on Tuesday. I replaced it with my spare and the thing is so incredibly bright right now it's amazing.

9/2005 Bought the set (HD56G786)
3/2006 Defective bulb went replaced with spare
Two weeks later: Replaced spare with warranty bulb
3/2009 Replaced bulb with spare

ok, its apparent that this so called electrician is not going to be able to fix my tv. are there any technicians out there that can help me? and by that, i mean, if i send you my light engine, can you rebuild it? or, is there a schematic somewhere that i can get of if so i can do the work myself (i work with electronics)? i just want my tv back! thanks for the help guys

Monday I asked my wife to tell me if she noticed anything weird about the TV. I thought it had been getting noticeably dim over the last few days and much worse Monday evening. She couldn't tell. My second bulb blew on Tuesday. I replaced it with my spare and the thing is so incredibly bright right now it's amazing.

9/2005 Bought the set (HD56G786)
3/2006 Defective bulb went replaced with spare
Two weeks later: Replaced spare with warranty bulb
3/2009 Replaced bulb with spare


Just a thought:

When replacing the lamp, the cooling system for the lamp should be cleaned of dust, etc so these contaminates are not deposited on the new lamp.


PS: On the lamp replacement dates- such info is more useful if you:
A: Post the part number of replacement lamp /any batch /lot/ manufacturer ID strings on the lamps /bulbs.....
B: Post how many hours of run-time you are getting on each lamp.
(Go into the user /service menu and get the lamp run time before doing a reset.)
C: Post your usage patterns: EG: Set once turned ON is left ON, Run for xyz hours per day..

(Stuff like that helps to show a pattern of bad lots, which manufacturer to stay clear of (given the choice) and helps in those cases of putting pressure on manufacturers to provide a replacement


.

Just a thought:

When replacing the lamp, the cooling system for the lamp should be cleaned of dust, etc so these contaminates are not deposited on the new lamp.


PS: On the lamp replacement dates- such info is more useful if you:
A: Post the part number of replacement lamp /any batch /lot/ manufacturer ID strings on the lamps /bulbs.....
B: Post how many hours of run-time you are getting on each lamp.
(Go into the user /service menu and get the lamp run time before doing a reset.)
C: Post your usage patterns: EG: Set once turned ON is left ON, Run for xyz hours per day..

(Stuff like that helps to show a pattern of bad lots, which manufacturer to stay clear of (given the choice) and helps in those cases of putting pressure on manufacturers to provide a replacement


.

Just curious, can you clean the "cooling system" without removing the back cover? Thought there was somthing?? that needed to be reset if the cover was removed?

Just curious, can you clean the "cooling system" without removing the back cover? Thought there was somthing?? that needed to be reset if the cover was removed?

I have removed my back cover several times in the last few years for cleaning and nothing ever needed to be reset.

By the way, this tv (HD70G886) still puts out a very pleasing picture for most content. Blacks are not so good, but for sports, hdtv and most movies it still performs well. I had a problem with how small the image got on scope movies with the black bars. But since I added a good projector for movies, I like this TV even more since watch the content that looks best on it and the rest on the projector.

I have removed my back cover several times in the last few years for cleaning and nothing ever needed to be reset.

By the way, this tv (HD70G886) still puts out a very pleasing picture for most content. Blacks are not so good, but for sports, hdtv and most movies it still performs well. I had a problem with how small the image got on scope movies with the black bars. But since I added a good projector for movies, I like this TV even more since watch the content that looks best on it and the rest on the projector.

Went back searching thru the threads, there was mention of the HDMI needing reset if the back cover was removed. I perfer component myself, could not see any difference with hdmi, hdmi produced a slight delay when switching between channels. So if I take off the back cover and it screws with the HDMI, I probably would not notice it. I assume the cooling area is nothing more than some plastic ducting and a fan?

Just a thought:

When replacing the lamp, the cooling system for the lamp should be cleaned of dust, etc so these contaminates are not deposited on the new lamp.


PS: On the lamp replacement dates- such info is more useful if you:
A: Post the part number of replacement lamp /any batch /lot/ manufacturer ID strings on the lamps /bulbs.....
B: Post how many hours of run-time you are getting on each lamp.
(Go into the user /service menu and get the lamp run time before doing a reset.)
C: Post your usage patterns: EG: Set once turned ON is left ON, Run for xyz hours per day..

(Stuff like that helps to show a pattern of bad lots, which manufacturer to stay clear of (given the choice) and helps in those cases of putting pressure on manufacturers to provide a replacement
.

Unfortunately, some of the most important data was lost. The bulb warning came on a few months ago. I finally got tired of it sometime in February, located the remote, and reset it. Approximately 1/1000th of a second after doing it, I realized that I didn't record the runtime of the current bulb.

What I was hoping to convey, without that crucial data, was that the second bulb lasted about 6 times longer, by the calendar not bulb time, than the original (known to be defective in these sets) bulb.

It's hard to quantify a usage pattern, but I can tell you that we use it now more than ever. Simply, we use it like a TV. I do tend to leave the set on if we are going to be away from the set for less than an hour. It's pretty rare that the set losses power and we try to wait at least 1/2 hour if before turning it back on once it's been turned off.

The first defective bulb lasted 1158 hours.

Here is the scoop

Model - 61Z786
Bought - November 2005
Usage - 2 to 3 hours daily as a primary TV
Bulb - Original

Tonight, I notice the picture appear to darken and within a few minutes
the screen goes blank and the red and blue LED's are flashing rapidly.

Cannot turn TV off via remote/tv switch. I turn off/on power and then
switch TV on. Same deal - dark screen and rapidly blinking LED's

I suspect it is the Lamp. Just want some confirmation, as someone mentioned
that a bad ballast could also be an issue at times.

I never got any lamp warning at all. Is that normal for a bulb failure ?

A quick yahoo search reveals

Philips replacement bulb with housing - $139
OSRAM replacement bulb with housing - $105 (on ebay)

Any recommendations/preference ?

Also, any reason to buy with or without housing ?

I did not get any warning on my bulb failure either. If you trust the seller on eBay, go ahead. It seems hard to find those bulbs elsewhere - out of stock/discontinued. I keep a bulb & housing assembly as a spare.

I tried to look up p/n TS-CL100UA on Ebay, no item found. Is this the P/n you used?? I know that earlier research found that the cost was $5 difference between replacement with a housing or one without.

http://www.jvcservice.com/store/ProductDetail.asp?Part=TS-CL110UAA (http://www.jvcservice.com/store/ProductDetail.asp?Part=TS-CL110UAA)

and

http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch.aspx?PartNumber=TS-CL110UAA&x=44&y=19 (http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch.aspx?PartNumber=TS-CL110UAA&x=44&y=19)

http://www.jvcservice.com/store/ProductDetail.asp?Part=TS-CL110UAA (http://www.jvcservice.com/store/ProductDetail.asp?Part=TS-CL110UAA)

and

http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch.aspx?PartNumber=TS-CL110UAA&x=44&y=19 (http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch.aspx?PartNumber=TS-CL110UAA&x=44&y=19)

Ok..My bad....as soon as I changed the p/n from "..A" to "..AA" at the end, I got all kind of hits from Ebay...:rolleyes:

So, is the consensus that osram and phillips are equivalent ?

So, is the consensus that osram and phillips are equivalent ?

You can read this from the phillips people http://www.fixyourdlp.com/blog/2008/02/21/the-philips-solution-is-herephilips-ts-cl100ua-ts-cl100ua-jvc-d-ila-lamps/#comments

Thanks for the link. So it looks like phillips is superior.

I will call discount-merchant.com tomorrow as the bare bulb
webpage is redirecting to the full enclosure.

BTW, i just pulled the old bulb housing out and the bulb inside is shattered
:(

Shouldn't there be a class action or something against this faulty design ??

I only got about 2000 hours on a bulb rated 6000 hours...

My first bulb I pulled out, even though it was still working but very dark picture had a lot of blisters on the bulb. I believe JVC more or less admitted that the original bulbs were not of good quality. The replacement bulb that JVC sent me has been in operation 3 + years (knocking on wood)

Ok, I need help. I am going to take this television apart and remove the Light Engine. Anyone know where I can get Schematics on the process of removing all the panels? I have pictures of some of the interanl parts look like (drawings), but is there an actual "manual" or "service guide" that can instruct me on what to do? I can do this all without it, but it would make it easier to figure out. Thanks for the help guys. This site is awesome!

Service Manual (http://209.187.238.153/movies/ServiceManual.pdf)

Service Manual (http://209.187.238.153/movies/ServiceManual.pdf)

Thanks.....I needed one of them:)

Thanks. I had some of the pics, just not the instructions. Thank you again and again!

Ok, I think I have found my problem!!!!! I have included some pics for anyone who can tell me what they are called, and if I can purchase them seperately. They are located in the light engine housing. I sure hope that one of you guys can help, cause this will save me about, I dont know, $1200!!!!!

First picture is what appears to be a filter that comes after the light but before the inside of the engine itself. It appears to be "burnt" which im pretty sure is not a good thing.

The second image is a another filter (i think) that sits in front of the first picture (it had what appeared to be a scratch on it, and when i went to check it with my finger, i accidentally wiped off a mirrored film, which im sure is important, so i need to replace that now)

The third picture is both of the pieces next to each other.

If anyone out there can get me an idea of a part # or something, I would be SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO appreciative!

Thanks for all and anyones help in advance!

Thanks for the link. So it looks like phillips is superior.

I will call discount-merchant.com tomorrow as the bare bulb
webpage is redirecting to the full enclosure.

BTW, i just pulled the old bulb housing out and the bulb inside is shattered
:(

Shouldn't there be a class action or something against this faulty design ??

I only got about 2000 hours on a bulb rated 6000 hours...

Well I picked up a new bulb and enclosure off ebay with the Osram map for $105. It works perfectly (night and day compared with the original JVC bulb that was giving bulb replacement errors). Only time will tell if this is going to be okay.

The seller had 22904 +ve feedbacks and the bulb is guaranteed for 180 days so that should give me enough time to work out if it's good or not.

While the bulb is apparently Osram, couldn't see anything on it that suggested the manufacturer

Well, JVC sucks! I have done everything in my power to try and get part numbers or exploded views or anything of the light engine, and yet bupkis! JVC can blow it out their anus'! Anyone in here looking for an HD-52G886 television that is in PERFECT SHAPE, with the exception of a LIGHT ENGINE? I will sell it cheap!

I am $30 away from fixing it, and can't get anyone to help at that crappy company! DO NOT BUY JVC ANYMORE!!! The t.v. looks great, but customer support blows chunks! Sorry for the ranting folks, just makes me mad! I also have 2 perfectly good bulbs for sell. Since I cannot use them, maybe they can bring someone else happiness! If anyone can help, I have posted the pics in an earlier post, so please let me know, before I throw this thing off the Skyway Bridge (200 feet in the air)!

I hate hearing stories like this. I've been in the HT business for about 15 yrs & I've commented many times on the issue of designed obsolescence, especially with the better equipment. Its become the standard of the industry, so don't think your experience will change with another brand.

Be patient, keep looking around on the internet before pitching it off a bridge. In San Antonio, I've found an independent, reasonably priced tech that has been successful repairing problematic TVs that the manufacture suggested being retired due to the cost of repairs being more than the value of the TV. Call around.

Thanks for the reply Soundgardner. The thing is, I HAVENT given up! I have done research after research and it seems that no one is willing to part with any information. I have found some filter and mirror sites that I have written letters too, hoping that they can point me in the right direction. My fingers are crossed!

If and when I do get this fixed, I can guarantee that I will NEVER purchase another JVC product. Aggrevation is not the word I would use for this insanity!

P.S. Soundgardner, what is the name and phone number of the shop that you contacted about your television? Maybe I can contact him and he can help me as well.

Thank you for all of your help in here. If anyone can offer other info., dont be shy! lol

Has JVC ever updated the firmware on this model?

My inlaws have one and the HDMI is routinly buggy, so I need to reset it in the sevice menu. I do not use the HDMI anymore becouse of it. Now, I wish to give them a blu-ray player and it would be nice to use it.

My HDMI has been out for over a year... I'd love to be able to find a new board!

Does the reset work?

never has

No worries, I do not think you are missing much anyway?

The board always goes out and needs service menu reset on DVD, HDDVD, DSS connection.

I dont think its worth the cash to replace.

i've done fine without it this long but I do want to upgrade to blueray and it would be nice to get that resolution

Mine is still going strong. I feed everything thru an Onkyo 805 into the HDMI input.

I hope it lasts until 61" OLEDs become affordable.

Red panel on my HD-52Z575 appears to have died, picture has blue tint. For awhile cycling power fixed the problem, now it appears to be stuck (off). I assume the fix is replacing the light engine, which I assume would cost more than a new TV. Pulled the electronics out the back of the TV and wiggled/thumped things a bit, that is the extent of my troubleshooting so far. Service menu reports "RG9" RGB error code, and when I go to convergence screen the red block is missing (and no red would explain blue tint, I think).

I will put the TV out with the garbage this week unless someone here tells me there is a repair that makes sense! Thanks!

Add me to the list of people who will never buy JVC again.

After 3 yrs light engine has failed. The "green blob" found on Sony LCOS models has turned up on mine now. As far as I can tell JVC is not doing anything like Sony's unofficial recall for the problem with this technology. JVC has been no help. I will never buy another JVC and will suggest the same for others.

Mine was purchased in the summer of '06. $2000 for 3 years is unacceptable. A big-screen TV should not be considered disposable.

MY HD-61Z786 has a dark area on the left side of the screen and overall is darker than it used to be. I thought maybe it needed a good cleaning as discussed here. Then I ran the "self check" from the service menu and got the following report:

LOB OK FAN OK
SYNC M: NG S: NG HD: OK
TIM OK
MAM OK DIG OK
MEM OK AVSW NG1
YC OK AIO OK
TUN NG2 GCR OK
IP NG1 RGB OK
DVI OK HDMI NG9

Page 2
FAN OK ALM OK
TMP OK
ATP OK ASH OK

PNL OK MEM OK
TMP OK AIO NG1
CARD OK

What do you think? With all of those "NG" is it toast?

Red panel on my HD-52Z575 appears to have died, picture has blue tint. For awhile cycling power fixed the problem, now it appears to be stuck (off). I assume the fix is replacing the light engine, which I assume would cost more than a new TV. Pulled the electronics out the back of the TV and wiggled/thumped things a bit, that is the extent of my troubleshooting so far. Service menu reports "RG9" RGB error code, and when I go to convergence screen the red block is missing (and no red would explain blue tint, I think).

I will put the TV out with the garbage this week unless someone here tells me there is a repair that makes sense! Thanks!

Ended up calling JVC, they told me there was a software fix for this. Had technician come and he had computer problems, but he made a call and was able to restore the red panel from the convergence screen in the service menu! Just pressed sleep button while in red convergence screen!

If only there was a similar fix for my 70" JVC that has the dreaded yellow blob problem ...

Ok, I need help. I am going to take this television apart and remove the Light Engine. Anyone know where I can get Schematics on the process of removing all the panels? I have pictures of some of the interanl parts look like (drawings), but is there an actual "manual" or "service guide" that can instruct me on what to do? I can do this all without it, but it would make it easier to figure out. Thanks for the help guys. This site is awesome!

I got mine long ago from (Jack Andolini, ManualsParadise.com), they will sell you the tech manuals and schematices, I paid $20, hope this helps. If you need anthing else.. send me an pm.

I just stumbled onto a 56GC87 that seems to mostly be working nicely, at the price of a bit over $100 bucks I couldn't pass it up. doing some research it seems my HDMI input problem is commonplace (neither HDMI port works). Also from reading around it seems I can potentially fix it with a firmware (or software) update by loading the update onto an SD card and putting it in the service port. then accessing the digital setup menu-software.

Does anyone have or know where JVC's obsolete software updates are? I've tried their site (nothing) and have an Email out to them but I don't expect they have them any more or allow downloading them.

BTW I do know about the Jumper reset thing, I'm just not convinced it's a permanent fix judging by the amount of people who do it and then report back that the ports stop working again as soon as you change inputs.

Friend gave me his HD-52G456 because of a yellow/green hue on the whole screen.

When accessing the RGB settings in the Service Menu, the B doesnt change at all. Am I to assume the Blue is shot and it a gigantic paperweight?

He said he had a guy out once and said the part that needs replaced is 800 bucks. Any idea what part that may be?

Friend gave me his HD-52G456 because of a yellow/green hue on the whole screen.

When accessing the RGB settings in the Service Menu, the B doesnt change at all. Am I to assume the Blue is shot and it a gigantic paperweight?

He said he had a guy out once and said the part that needs replaced is 800 bucks. Any idea what part that may be?
Light Engine

Friend gave me his HD-52G456 because of a yellow/green hue on the whole screen.

When accessing the RGB settings in the Service Menu, the B doesnt change at all. Am I to assume ...it a gigantic paperweight?...

Probably. This is an early production D-ILA with many outdated features. I have a similar one and I'm happy with it for the moment but I wouldn't spend any money to fix it. For the cost of a new light engine ($1500+ with labor) you can buy a brand new 52 inch flat-panel (last year's models) with far better image processing, connectivity and a full warrentee, and no lamp replacement issues.

I second davegow's advice.
I have one as well and happy with it, but...

That's not what I wanted to hear. I got it for free and all but the wife wasnt too pleased I came home with a ginormous green colored HDTV....

Well, I have decided to sell my television. It doesn't seem that I'm going to fix it, considering that I can buy a brand new one for the same price! THAT SUCKS! Oh well, lesson learned. I have a JVC Model # 52G886HD. The light engine is not bad, but it also doesn't produce a good picture. You can see my earlier post with the pictures to understand. Everything in the cabinet is in perfect condition. Anyone looking for a 52" JVC Rear Projection in PERFECT condition, please contact me and make an offer. I'm sure I'll let it go REAL CHEAP!

I have an issue with my HD-52G786. Unfortunately for me the problem is moving from intermittant to constant. Each time I turn on the TV I get about 5-10 minutes in and blinking lamp/power lights. I haven't replaced the bulb since 06 when I had the ballast replaced, so I thought that a new bulb might be in order. I have an extra from back in 06 when the tech repair guy told me that my problem was probably a faulty bulb. So I bought a new one and still had a problem. THEN he told me since it wasn't the bulb I needed to replace the ballast. So I pop in this new bulb and still get the same thing. It happened once or twice a couple of months ago then was fine until a week ago. That is when I replaced the bulb. Now it is happening every time. I wait for the bulb to cool down, unplug and turn it back on. Now I have to do this two or three times before it stays on for good. Once it stays on it is good to go until turned off again.

The repair place tells me that replacing the ballast will be around $400 perhaps $500. The part is supposedly $125 (from him), so I know I am mostly paying for labor and a markup on the part. I can't imagine it is terribly difficult to replace. Is there a good place to buy parts from, or is JVC my only option? Also, what are the chances of the ballast actually being the problem? HDMI port is out- again; if that makes any difference.

Hey bfrd... If you get this note. I have a 52G 886 (SIlver) and Everything in it works great except the Light Engine. Wanna buy mine? Ill sell it cheap. Plus I have 2 bulbs that have low hours. One has maybe 2 hours, and the other probably has about 100 to 150. Offer me something and who knows. Also, where do you live. Im in Florida. Shipping will be involved. Let me know. My name is Mike

Well after four + years my lamp is going on my HD56G886. I received a message on screen the lamp needs to be replaced, to call for service, then to reset the timer. I had the original go out a couple of months after I bought this set (covered by JVC warranty at the time) but never saw any message on the screen like this time. Anyway.....Looking a bit on the Net I see there is a JVC boxed lamp for a bit over 200. and a Phillips lamp for about 130.. Any difference on these two besides the label?

Well after four + years my lamp is going on my HD56G886. I received a message on screen the lamp needs to be replaced, to call for service, then to reset the timer. I had the original go out a couple of months after I bought this set (covered by JVC warranty at the time) but never saw any message on the screen like this time. Anyway.....Looking a bit on the Net I see there is a JVC boxed lamp for a bit over 200. and a Phillips lamp for about 130.. Any difference on these two besides the label?

The on-screen message is based on a running counter of time powered on. It is quite possible to get the lamp replacement message but still have a perfectly functional and good bulb.

That's what happened with mine after the first replacement. It started prompting me to replace it, so I just cleared the message and enjoyed the picture. When the bulb really goes you'll know it! :)

The on-screen message is based on a running counter of time powered on. It is quite possible to get the lamp replacement message but still have a perfectly functional and good bulb.

That's what happened with mine after the first replacement. It started prompting me to replace it, so I just cleared the message and enjoyed the picture. When the bulb really goes you'll know it! :)

Thanks for the input. I figured that is what prompted the message and is what the message was based upon (used hours);). Still curious about the different lamps tho. Any thoughts?

I'd buy a new lamp when I see the message, if I didn't have one already.

Personally, I chose to buy the JVC, both for myself and my boss. I've had problems with other Philips bulbs, and just don't trust the brand name any more.

I'd buy a new lamp when I see the message, if I didn't have one already.

Personally, I chose to buy the JVC, both for myself and my boss. I've had problems with other Philips bulbs, and just don't trust the brand name any more.

Thanks! That is the type of input I was looking for. And I agree about buying the bulb now.

I'd buy a new lamp when I see the message, if I didn't have one already.

Personally, I chose to buy the JVC, both for myself and my boss. I've had problems with other Philips bulbs, and just don't trust the brand name any more.

Hmmm, now I am a bit confused. Is there a difference between the Philips, Orsam, and JVC lamps? From what I have read it sounds like JVC is using Philips now and if that is the case I don't see the difference between buying a JVC marked lamp and a new Phillips lamp. Am I missing something or just being a bit to anal?

DK. But I'd avoid Philips- under any rebranding.

Thanks

My 2005 61z786 died after 4 1/2 years of great service. I bought a spare bulb from JVC about a year and half ago. I also have the original bulb. Please let me know if you are interested in one or both bulbs.

My 2005 61z786 died after 4 1/2 years of great service. I bought a spare bulb from JVC about a year and half ago. I also have the original bulb. Please let me know if you are interested in one or both bulbs.
I still have the bulb, pm me.

I still have the bulb, pm me.
Still have the replacement bulb.

I have a 56G786, I am still on the original bulb from when I purchased this back in January 2006. I have noticed a slight dim and then brightening alternating from time to time. Has anyone had this before? Is this a bulb issue or possible a light engine? Thanks.

I have a 56G786, I am still on the original bulb from when I purchased this back in January 2006. I have noticed a slight dim and then brightening alternating from time to time. Has anyone had this before? Is this a bulb issue or possible a light engine? Thanks.

Just for the heck of it, have you pulled the bulb and looked at it? My first bulb failure had bulb distortions like warts developing on the outside. It just went darker and darker, replaced it with a new one 4+ years ago and still going strong (knock, knock)

Just for the heck of it, have you pulled the bulb and looked at it? My first bulb failure had bulb distortions like warts developing on the outside. It just went darker and darker, replaced it with a new one 4+ years ago and still going strong (knock, knock)

Yeah I have done that. Actually I turned off the 'color mgmt' and dynamic gamma' and so far the dimming and brightening has stopped from what I can tell.

The next thing I would like to figure out is how to tone down the reds. There are times they are too intense and sometimes red images have jagged edges.

Yeah I have done that. Actually I turned off the 'color mgmt' and dynamic gamma' and so far the dimming and brightening has stopped from what I can tell.

The next thing I would like to figure out is how to tone down the reds. There are times they are too intense and sometimes red images have jagged edges.

My problem all along was the bulb. Got a new bulb today, bright as can be, no more dimming and brightening. Its like having a new TV.

ok,, its been awhile since i posted in here. i just want everyone to know, that i fixed the problem with my tv, WITHOUT the help of JVC!!!!!! i found a light engine on ebay (even though not the same unit as mine), $40, INSTEAD OF $1000, took it apart, made some minor modifications to the parts that i needed and KABAM!, BRAND NEW TV AGAIN! i also realized what caused the original problem. from my earlier post with pictures, you will see that the "filter", as i called it, was melted through. wel, the aperature plate directly sitting in front of it had a minor "scratch" (not really a scratch since the glass was not harmed, just the phosphorous material coating had a hair sized scratch in it). it appeared to me as the imperfection, which came from the manufacturer, was allowing unprotected light get through and burn the filter. i now have my tv back and will be happy to put it back in the living room. but, i will say this, i will NEVER buy another JVC product! not because of their products, cause they do make nice looking stuff, and the pictures are astounding, but their customer service blows monkey butts! if anyone in here or you know has a dimming problem, replace the bulb and still the same problem, DO NOT buy a light engine! i can show anyone how to fix the problem. i hope everyone enjoys their tv's as i will again be enjoying mine!

ok, now that i have my tv back in my main room again, how do i get the software update for the hdmi input? i know that it never worked since day one, so i never bothered with it, and i keep seeing "use an sd card to update firmware" in places, but where do i get the firmware update from? jvc? not on their site. any help would be appreciated.

thanks

ok,, its been awhile since i posted in here. i just want everyone to know, that i fixed the problem with my tv, WITHOUT the help of JVC!!!!!! i found a light engine on ebay (even though not the same unit as mine), $40, INSTEAD OF $1000, took it apart, made some minor modifications to the parts that i needed and KABAM!, BRAND NEW TV AGAIN! i also realized what caused the original problem. from my earlier post with pictures, you will see that the "filter", as i called it, was melted through. wel, the aperature plate directly sitting in front of it had a minor "scratch" (not really a scratch since the glass was not harmed, just the phosphorous material coating had a hair sized scratch in it). it appeared to me as the imperfection, which came from the manufacturer, was allowing unprotected light get through and burn the filter. i now have my tv back and will be happy to put it back in the living room. but, i will say this, i will NEVER buy another JVC product! not because of their products, cause they do make nice looking stuff, and the pictures are astounding, but their customer service blows monkey butts! if anyone in here or you know has a dimming problem, replace the bulb and still the same problem, DO NOT buy a light engine! i can show anyone how to fix the problem. i hope everyone enjoys their tv's as i will again be enjoying mine!

TX for the report! Glad to know you got it up and running again. If and when you have time, can you detail a little more on the light engine repair. Did you switch light engines or use the ebay one (parts) to fix the original?

Well, the64gto, I used just some parts from the one I purchased on ebay. Taking apart the light engine was fairly simple, just remembering where each screw goes and in what order to put it back together. As far as fixing it, well, there is no pictures of an exploded view of each piece I was taking them out. I do have open views of the light engine itself and I also have marked the points from where the troubles were.

This first picture is of the light engine taken apart almost completely. Notice that I have removed almost all the components that would seem to be of no use while working.

The second picture I have marked where the aperature plate is. If anyone decides they are going to try this procedure, BE CAREFUL!!! The aperature has a mirror like finish that can be RUBBED OFF with THE SLIGHTEST TOUCH!!! I have included another picture of the previous pictures that I posted so you can see what it looks like.


The next picture is of the "filter", as I call it, on the front of the actual light engine assembly. The picture after that shows how it sits on the main unit. The giant burned hole is NOT supposed to be there by the way!

I simply took the second light engine apart, removed the pieces that I needed, made some minor modifications (I had to trim some of the metal off the edges of the aperature plate cause it was bigger than the one from mine. I also hot glued the filter onto main unit on the top being careful not to let it run down in front of the area where the light goes in. Sorry there are no pictures for this section, as I put everything together and turned the tv on, just to see it work and was as happy as a pig in s***! )

Now, as you can see, this is a simple fix. It's a shame that JVC has to be arrogant asses and could have had a satisfied customer, and made money from me (since I was ready to pay $100 for parts that cost $2.50!). But, oh well, it is what it is.

If there is any more information not explained here, then please feel free to ask, and I will try to answer the best I can.

Well done "Novice"....It was great that you took some pictures and I have filed them away on my HDD for future use (hoping that they will never have to be used) knock knock I have seen other comments in this thread, way back, where some people have taken the time to periodically take their machine apart and clean the lenses. Was yours "dirty" and would you advise doing that.??

well, i would only advise doing that if you know what you are doing. you have to be careful with the lense, cause if it is scratched, then you are screwed. the only reason you should ever have to clean the lense is if you are a smoker in the house. i dont see it getting dirty other than that. you could take a can of air and blow it out from time to time, but other than that, i see no use. hope that helps.

There might have been an update to fix it.

It's been a while but when set to 720p over HDMI to a 720p front projector BD movies looked like 480i/p.

I'll have to check it out and see if I like 720p any better than 1080i.


A bit late in the game, but I have a PS3 with the 720p set (whcih I believe is 768 lines). I find that 1080i is looking a lot better in terms of resolution (probably because it's downconvering) that 720p (which is upconverting).

THe only caveat is that I find that 1080i is less fluid. Am I crazy? Did you guys notice the difference in terms of motion?

I've had my 52G786 for about 4-5 years now. Back when it was under warranty, I noticed that I was unable to view or hear anything from the cable box to the TV via the HDMI cable. At the time, however, my HT receiver did not have HDMI so I just ported the video via component and audio via optical calbe. At one point, I did submit a repair request with the extended warranty company but they never called back to schedule a visit and I never pursued it since I'm lazy like that. Now that I want to get a new receiver, with HDMI in/out, of course, I want to see if the HDMI is still not working.
Back then, I was with one cable company (Brighthouse) and thought maybe it was the cable box. I am now with Verizon FiOS so I held out some hope that HDMI was fine. No luck. All I get is a green screen and from what I read in the manual and through the menus, I don't think I need to do anything special other than hook up the cables and see the picture. Maybe that's not the case. With the HDMI cable in, I see a green screen. I pull the cable out and I get the light gray. What can I do to resolve this?

I don't think there's much you can do but keep using your work around.

Sounds like a HDCP problem to me. I got something similar a way back and a tech just covered up some sensor in the back of the set - well so he told me. From then it worked fine with all HDMI sources including a PS3, Popcorn Hour and Toshiba HD-DVD player. I know the PS3 and HD-DVD player observe HDCP and they didn't work until he did the hack.

I've had my 52G786 for about 4-5 years now. Back when it was under warranty, I noticed that I was unable to view or hear anything from the cable box to the TV via the HDMI cable. At the time, however, my HT receiver did not have HDMI so I just ported the video via component and audio via optical calbe. At one point, I did submit a repair request with the extended warranty company but they never called back to schedule a visit and I never pursued it since I'm lazy like that. Now that I want to get a new receiver, with HDMI in/out, of course, I want to see if the HDMI is still not working.
Back then, I was with one cable company (Brighthouse) and thought maybe it was the cable box. I am now with Verizon FiOS so I held out some hope that HDMI was fine. No luck. All I get is a green screen and from what I read in the manual and through the menus, I don't think I need to do anything special other than hook up the cables and see the picture. Maybe that's not the case. With the HDMI cable in, I see a green screen. I pull the cable out and I get the light gray. What can I do to resolve this?

Timmer sounds like we've lived a parallel life.... i too couldn't get the HDMI working, submitted a ticket, they never got back with me...now years later I have a new blueray DVD, DVR with HDMI and went through all 100+ pages until my eyes are blurry trying to resolve this... I've gone through the reset process 6 times to no avail...still green screen. I can't afford a new TV now and tired of my friend's tv's $1000s cheaper looking nicer! Anyone have any other ideas out there on how to get this HDMI working???

Well my JVC D-ILA set (PAL model but similar in design) has had a power supply failure after 3.5 years. It's going to cost me $600 to fix. I would dump it but it's too large to dispose and so I am faced with spending the money to get it working and noting that for about $1200 I could get a nice 56" 1080P screen and putting up with the 720P this JVC maxes out at. Very annoying.

Timmer sounds like we've lived a parallel life.... i too couldn't get the HDMI working, submitted a ticket, they never got back with me...now years later I have a new blueray DVD, DVR with HDMI and went through all 100+ pages until my eyes are blurry trying to resolve this... I've gone through the reset process 6 times to no avail...still green screen. I can't afford a new TV now and tired of my friend's tv's $1000s cheaper looking nicer! Anyone have any other ideas out there on how to get this HDMI working???

is it a lime green? my tv show green for a split second when i switch sources on my pioneer receiver. (which acts as a hdmi switch) I assume it's just checking hdcp. are all of your cables hdcp compliant? is the tv turned on before the source? the source should be on then turn on the tv

Read a lot of online pages and no one ever has mentioned this...

JVC 52g786 (bought 07), exhibits a 'clicking' sound when plugged in. Lamp seems to be fine. Any idea what might be causing this?

Also, how do you access the service menu to recalibrate the picture?

Thanks in advance

OMG... after 5 years of not figuring out the HDMI issue.. IT IS FIXED.

I went through the posted reset procedure for the HDMI probaby 30 times out of frustration with the same results..... green screen for DIGITAL IN (HDMI) The service menu showed HDMI NG4.

Well I googled the service manual today and found a place that let's you download it for $4.99 CLICKY (http://www.e-servicemanuals.com/product-view.php?prod_id=103567786)..... I was reading through the manual and noticed a small difference in the procedure to reset the HDMI.....

POSTED:

1) Turn on TV
2) Make sure the remote toggle switches are set to "TV" and "VCR" respectively
3) Press the "Sleep" button
4) Simultaneously press "Display" and "Video Status"
5) Press "2" (Self Check)
6) Turn off the TV
7) Wait for fan to turn off (30 seconds or so)
8) Unplug TV
9) Wait for 30 seconds
10) Turn TV back on

Step 6 I was walking up to the TV and using the power button on the front of the set... so I could hear the fan and then unplug. What I noticed in the Service Manual it said to use the POWER button on the remote to shut off the TV and no need to unplug the TV... So I tried it and it worked!!!! 5 years no HDMI and finally!!!!

So what worked for me:

1) Turn on TV
2) Make sure the remote toggle switches are set to "TV" and "VCR" respectively
3) Press the "Sleep" button
4) Simultaneously press "Display" and "Video Status"
5) Press "2" (Self Check)
6) Turn off the TV with the REMOTE
\
9) Wait for 30 seconds
10) Turn TV back on

Hope that helps someone else! Thanks for everyone's input and contributions!

In addition to the other issue, mentioned above:

All channels work, however, the HDMI channel has a 'blue crush effect' regardless of the source (HDMI from HD DVR box, or DVD player).

The channel works, just everything gets painted blue.

Service reset has not helped. It states HDMI is ok. There are NG elsewhere though (TUN-NG*, M-NG, AIO is NG)

thoughts what those mean?

OMG... after 5 years of not figuring out the HDMI issue.. IT IS FIXED.

I went through the posted reset procedure for the HDMI probaby 30 times out of frustration with the same results..... green screen for DIGITAL IN (HDMI) The service menu showed HDMI NG4.

Well I googled the service manual today and found a place that let's you download it for $4.99 CLICKY (http://www.e-servicemanuals.com/product-view.php?prod_id=103567786)..... I was reading through the manual and noticed a small difference in the procedure to reset the HDMI.....

POSTED:

1) Turn on TV
2) Make sure the remote toggle switches are set to "TV" and "VCR" respectively
3) Press the "Sleep" button
4) Simultaneously press "Display" and "Video Status"
5) Press "2" (Self Check)
6) Turn off the TV
7) Wait for fan to turn off (30 seconds or so)
8) Unplug TV
9) Wait for 30 seconds
10) Turn TV back on

Step 6 I was walking up to the TV and using the power button on the front of the set... so I could hear the fan and then unplug. What I noticed in the Service Manual it said to use the POWER button on the remote to shut off the TV and no need to unplug the TV... So I tried it and it worked!!!! 5 years no HDMI and finally!!!!

So what worked for me:

1) Turn on TV
2) Make sure the remote toggle switches are set to "TV" and "VCR" respectively
3) Press the "Sleep" button
4) Simultaneously press "Display" and "Video Status"
5) Press "2" (Self Check)
6) Turn off the TV with the REMOTE
\
9) Wait for 30 seconds
10) Turn TV back on

Hope that helps someone else! Thanks for everyone's input and contributions!

I don't have that problem "yet", but will log this info away for future reference. TX

Found the service manual online if anyone's interested:
http://www.my.electronicshelponline.com/uploads/HD-52G786_SM.pdf

My TV died last week.

Black popping pictures, horizontal and vertical fritzing, etc. etc.

Figured now the fix is worth more than the TV. Time to dump it.

Unless anyone here knows of a quick DIY fix.....

Found the service manual online if anyone's interested:
http://www.my.electronicshelponline.com/uploads/HD-52G786_SM.pdf
Appreciate the link...:)

My TV died last week.

Black popping pictures, horizontal and vertical fritzing, etc. etc.

Figured now the fix is worth more than the TV. Time to dump it.

Unless anyone here knows of a quick DIY fix.....

I recommend you carefully examine the post before yours. And let us know how it works out.

Question about my 61Z786:

I have had this set for about 5 years and am pretty happy with it. All I have ever had to do was replace the bulb and the picture would look bright and new. I recently had a bulb blowout and replaced it with a spare I have had for a year. Not even 2 weeks later the picture looks very dim again, like the bulb is near the end of its life. I decided that maybe the bulb was defective and purchased a new bulb (I bought from discount-merchant and purchased the phillips bulb with enclosure)

I installed the new bulb last night, turned on the TV and...the picture is still dim. Now what? do light engine problems or ballast issues cause the picture to be dim? The picture still looks fine no other issues with color or tint etc... just a dim picture. I have seen people say that they clean their mirrors on these TV's so could that be the answer? If so, how is this done? Do I need to take the TV apart to do this? Any suggestions are appreciated. One other thing to note is that my 2 year old son does occasionally slap his hand on the screen - could something have come loose? Any help is appreciated as I am very disappointed that replacing the bulb did not result in the Ultra Bright (almost too bright in the beginning!) picture. I just don't think it is an issue with the bulb since the spare I had was never used and the replacement I just bought looked exactly the same brightness.

Thanks,
Pete

Question about my 61Z786:

I have had this set for about 5 years and am pretty happy with it. All I have ever had to do was replace the bulb and the picture would look bright and new. I recently had a bulb blowout and replaced it with a spare I have had for a year. Not even 2 weeks later the picture looks very dim again, like the bulb is near the end of its life. I decided that maybe the bulb was defective and purchased a new bulb (I bought from discount-merchant and purchased the phillips bulb with enclosure)

I installed the new bulb last night, turned on the TV and...the picture is still dim. Now what? do light engine problems or ballast issues cause the picture to be dim? The picture still looks fine no other issues with color or tint etc... just a dim picture. I have seen people say that they clean their mirrors on these TV's so could that be the answer? If so, how is this done? Do I need to take the TV apart to do this? Any suggestions are appreciated. One other thing to note is that my 2 year old son does occasionally slap his hand on the screen - could something have come loose? Any help is appreciated as I am very disappointed that replacing the bulb did not result in the Ultra Bright (almost too bright in the beginning!) picture. I just don't think it is an issue with the bulb since the spare I had was never used and the replacement I just bought looked exactly the same brightness.

Thanks,
Pete

If I had to guess, if you are still checking this site, that you may have the same problem that I had. Not sure about the ballast, because that wasn't an issue that I had. You have a 61 inch, which I have a 52. If I had to guess, you are in the same boat I was in. The light engine itself is not bad. Inside the housing where the light engine is, there are a couple of peices of glass and filters that the bulb shines the light into the "mirror" section of the engine. It sounds like yours may have burned through just like mine did. It sucks. It is an easy fix, if you can find the parts for it. If you know anything about taking your tv apart, then you could easily get to the components, but the problem will be finding replacement parts. Trust me on this. I did without my tv for over a year. I got lucky (as well as some creative manufacturing). If you go to my messages, earlier in this post, you will see some pictures of what I did, as well as a description of how I fixed it. If you need more info, then just shoot me an email and I will try and help as much as I can. Good luck and hope you get it fixed.

www.c00lerdayz@aol.com

Hi
First post on these forums, but I've often browsed the forums frequently for 5 + years. Any who, just curious if there is a preferred method on cleaning the mirror for the HD-52G786?

Hi
First post on these forums, but I've often browsed the forums frequently for 5 + years. Any who, just curious if there is a preferred method on cleaning the mirror for the HD-52G786? :)

Hi
First post on these forums, but I've often browsed the forums frequently for 5 + years. Any who, just curious if there is a preferred method on cleaning the mirror for the HD-52G786?

Folks tend to have their favorite methods, I prefer to just lightly wipe it with a very clean well-washed dry cotton cloth. That will usually remove moderate amounts of dust. If there is smoke residue or bug tracks on the screen I put a little distilled water on the cloth and wipe one section at a time, quickly drying it.

Use a bright light or flashlight at an extreme angle to the mirror, in a darkened room, to show dust.

Logically you get a better payoff from cleaning the main lens below the mirror. It's mostly horizontal so dust can collect there, and one piece of dust there is greatly magnified by the time it reaches the screen. Same cleaning materials. The lens is plastic, so be very gentle with it. Camera lens brush helps.

As I recall, the front frame/screen comes off like most tvs, a dozen screws or so, some hidden under the lower panel. The inside of the plastic viewing screen doesn't seem to attract much dust. Go over it lightly with a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush on the end. Don't use the top of the frame like a handle because it's not very strong when it's not on the tv.

Thank you Chuck F.

I'm new to this whole thing. I inherited my father-in-law's JVC52G786 last week. The original remote appears to have been lost, so we bought a Philips Univeral Remote.

Problem with the set is no blue is showing. Imagine a Simpson's episode where Marge's hair is all green. That's what we see. a football game where people's skin is magenta. I've been searching the posts here and the web for any insight. I've seen postings about the blue filter (polarization filters) being burnt. I've also seen postings about going into the service menu to look for problems.

So any advice on this would be great.

BTW, lamp was replaced once already, picture seems bright enough.

This will sound like a broken record. I just replaced the lamp for the second time in a year and a half with the DLP TS-CL11OUAA. Prior to the last lamp blowing out, the tv set itself had a perfect picture and color. Now it is washed out and very dim. The dealer I bought the lamp from thought it might have been defective since it was a generic lamp - so he sent me a replacement. Installed that and I still have the same problem - very dim like the brightness is turned to low. Any help guys? Thanks in advance, Moose.

This will sound like a broken record. I just replaced the lamp for the second time in a year and a half with the DLP TS-CL11OUAA. Prior to the last lamp blowing out, the tv set itself had a perfect picture and color. Now it is washed out and very dim. The dealer I bought the lamp from thought it might have been defective since it was a generic lamp - so he sent me a replacement. Installed that and I still have the same problem - very dim like the brightness is turned to low. Any help guys? Thanks in advance, Moose.

Don't buy 'generic lamps'. The economics are terrible, and so is the picture. Stay with Philips genuine lamps from a real dealer. Osrams are almost as good. Anything else is junk. OEM lamps from the tv manufacturer will generally be Philips or Osram. Here's one, there are many other reputable dealers out there selling quality lamps: http://www.rivervalleyelectronics.net/SearchResults.asp?Search=HD61G787

Do you really think that is the issue, Chuck?

The replacement bulb is from Philips. The picture is just so very dark. Any advice would be appreciated.

This will sound like a broken record. I just replaced the lamp for the second time in a year and a half with the DLP TS-CL11OUAA. Prior to the last lamp blowing out, the tv set itself had a perfect picture and color. Now it is washed out and very dim. The dealer I bought the lamp from thought it might have been defective since it was a generic lamp - so he sent me a replacement. Installed that and I still have the same problem - very dim like the brightness is turned to low. Any help guys? Thanks in advance, Moose.

The replacement bulb is from Philips. The picture is just so very dark. Any advice would be appreciated.

Oops. If the replacement is a good Philips then you have a problem. Did the tv get dim over a period of time? Is the dimness consistent, like on a white or gray screen, is it evenly lit? Is there any yellowness in the picture? Is it so dim that it's unwatchable? When the tv is working and you look at the lamp through cracks in the back of the tv, does it look fully lit, white and bright? It should be so bright it hurts your eyes.

Remove the lamp and look into the space where the lamp shines. Look for plastic lenslike parts that might be burned or discolored from heat. Might need a small mirror, I forget if this is a right angle lamp or straight.

Is this in such a dusty location that you think this could be simply a buildup of dust? Is the fan that you can see from the back really dirty?

Re a cleaning example, read this page, starting with message #3940: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17824939

This is worst case, but if this is your problem you would have to see color problems as well as some inconsistency on the screen:
Read this page, starting with message #6350: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=715594&page=212

Thanks for the input, Chuck. It's weird, the tv worked just fine before the first lamp went out. The second worked fine as well until about the third day when the picture got very dim. The company I bought the replacement bulb from thought it was the lamp so they upgraded me to the Philips. The color seems fine, the fan works and the lamp itself seems to burn very bright...but picture is very, very dim. I will look at the posts you suggested and try cleaning the system. Thank you very much.

Welp, the picture got worse and the colors became saturated in a green hue. I have direct tv and instead of the blue menu, it is green. Also, a nice yellow blob in the left side appeared. Decided to clean it. Wasn't hard to do - lot's of screws tho. And to my suprise it wasn't that dusty. At this point I think I'm pretty much fooked, and it's probably the light engine. I am just curious of why it happened just after replacing the lamp. One wonders if the new lamp is so intense that the opticals inside aren't use to the new power...I know that sounds stupid. Seems all too coincidental, though.

Anyway, does this sound like I have a light engine problem?

Welp, the picture got worse and the colors became saturated in a green hue. I have direct tv and instead of the blue menu, it is green. Also, a nice yellow blob in the left side appeared. Decided to clean it. Wasn't hard to do - lot's of screws tho. And to my suprise it wasn't that dusty. At this point I think I'm pretty much fooked, and it's probably the light engine. I am just curious of why it happened just after replacing the lamp. One wonders if the new lamp is so intense that the opticals inside aren't use to the new power...I know that sounds stupid. Seems all too coincidental, though.

Anyway, does this sound like I have a light engine problem?

When you said that the darkening of the image happened over a short period of time, that pointed away from a simple dust problem.

You are right, the intense light of a new lamp can push it over the edge. All that power going though clean plastic lenses and optics doesn't heat them up, but as they get dusty, they do tend to absorb more of the heat. Then the heat causes some discoloration or blackening, and the problem cascades quickly.

The yellow blob indicates you may have the problem deswcribed in the second link I posted earlier, and if you take apart the light engine further you may find that.

OMG... after 5 years of not figuring out the HDMI issue.. IT IS FIXED.

I went through the posted reset procedure for the HDMI probaby 30 times out of frustration with the same results..... green screen for DIGITAL IN (HDMI) The service menu showed HDMI NG4.

Well I googled the service manual today and found a place that let's you download it for $4.99 CLICKY (http://www.e-servicemanuals.com/product-view.php?prod_id=103567786)..... I was reading through the manual and noticed a small difference in the procedure to reset the HDMI.....

POSTED:

1) Turn on TV
2) Make sure the remote toggle switches are set to "TV" and "VCR" respectively
3) Press the "Sleep" button
4) Simultaneously press "Display" and "Video Status"
5) Press "2" (Self Check)
6) Turn off the TV
7) Wait for fan to turn off (30 seconds or so)
8) Unplug TV
9) Wait for 30 seconds
10) Turn TV back on

Step 6 I was walking up to the TV and using the power button on the front of the set... so I could hear the fan and then unplug. What I noticed in the Service Manual it said to use the POWER button on the remote to shut off the TV and no need to unplug the TV... So I tried it and it worked!!!! 5 years no HDMI and finally!!!!

So what worked for me:

1) Turn on TV
2) Make sure the remote toggle switches are set to "TV" and "VCR" respectively
3) Press the "Sleep" button
4) Simultaneously press "Display" and "Video Status"
5) Press "2" (Self Check)
6) Turn off the TV with the REMOTE
\
9) Wait for 30 seconds
10) Turn TV back on

Hope that helps someone else! Thanks for everyone's input and contributions!

Well I tried this several times and it did not work for me. Does it matter if the HDMI cables are connected or should they be removed before the reset?

Issue I have is that the sound cuts out every 5 seconds or so when connected to HDMI. Also screen will go black and then pop back on. This occurs less frequently but probably around every 10 mins. Is there any other way to reset the HDMI?
Maybe by restoring factory defaults on the TV or a firmware update.

I Fixed this once without the HDMI reset. Just by unplugging the set. Lasted about a year. But that no longer resolves the issue.


Any help greatly appreciated.

Welp, the picture got worse and the colors became saturated in a green hue. I have direct tv and instead of the blue menu, it is green. Also, a nice yellow blob in the left side appeared. Decided to clean it. Wasn't hard to do - lot's of screws tho. And to my suprise it wasn't that dusty. At this point I think I'm pretty much fooked, and it's probably the light engine. I am just curious of why it happened just after replacing the lamp. One wonders if the new lamp is so intense that the opticals inside aren't use to the new power...I know that sounds stupid. Seems all too coincidental, though.

Anyway, does this sound like I have a light engine problem?

Yep, you have classic symptoms of a light engine failure. Mine has gone south and I'm waiting on parts from Sears to be delivered so they can replace the optical block (i.e. light engine) and bulb. To avoid this failure in the future, I will NEVER turn off my TV and immediately turn it back on. Plus, I am keeping it on a UPS so the bulb can always be cooled down by the fan during power down cycle.

Welp, the picture got worse and the colors became saturated in a green hue. I have direct tv and instead of the blue menu, it is green. Also, a nice yellow blob in the left side appeared. Decided to clean it. Wasn't hard to do - lot's of screws tho. And to my suprise it wasn't that dusty. At this point I think I'm pretty much fooked, and it's probably the light engine. I am just curious of why it happened just after replacing the lamp. One wonders if the new lamp is so intense that the opticals inside aren't use to the new power...I know that sounds stupid. Seems all too coincidental, though.

Anyway, does this sound like I have a light engine problem?


There is no guarantee that your light engine is bad. If you replaced the bulb, then you are having an issue, it could be numerous things. Yes, the light engine could be going bad, but I don't think that could be the case. I have read in other post that if you see a "blob" on your screen, generally that is the bulb itself. Take the bulb out and look for deformaties. As far as the color goes, that could be as simple as a balast exchange. The dimming problem could be a similar problem as to what I had (check my post for more info). If you have taken the tv apart, then you are already half way there to fixing it.

My suggestion is, take the top part of the housing of the light engine off, check the glass lenses for marks or deformaties. Then take a look at the light engine itself, especially the front block where the light goes "IN" and see if the plastic piece is burned, melted, discolored or otherwise not perfect. You will notice that after all that is checked, if you don't see any issues that stand out, more than likely, your balast has gone bad. I hope it's a simple fix for you, cause my tv sat in my garage for a year before I was able to fix it.

Good luck! :)

Yep, you have classic symptoms of a light engine failure. Mine has gone south and I'm waiting on parts from Sears to be delivered so they can replace the optical block (i.e. light engine) and bulb. To avoid this failure in the future, I will NEVER turn off my TV and immediately turn it back on. Plus, I am keeping it on a UPS so the bulb can always be cooled down by the fan during power down cycle.

Please post if you get it repaired. Didn't people post earlier that there were no more optical blocks to be had?

About how much did they want for it?

Please post if you get it repaired. Didn't people post earlier that there were no more optical blocks to be had?

About how much did they want for it?

I presume it will be a refurb. They quoted around $1750 for the optical block. Since I have a Sears Master Protection Agreement, they either repair or replace (to be honest, I hope they repair it...I need a 70" screen and affordable LCD/Plasmas don't come that big). I'll post back here when the service is complete.

Still need help. I went in to clear any dust away from the projection unit in hopes that would clear up the color problem I was having. Now only the lamp comes on. No Menu, no nothing else, just a white screen. Any suggestions what may have gone bad?

what parts did you remove? did you slide out the entire back assembly? did you reconnect the 4 sets of cables back?

I've had my 52" set for 5 years. Had to replace 2 bulb in the 5 years. But like alot of others that own these sets my HDMI is crap. It once worked for about a 1 years then quit working. I tried all the different reset possiblities with no luck. Like a few other I will wait to see if a "magic fix" for the HDMI issue if posted.
I tried a 3rd party cheap bulb about 6 months ago and the picture is a little dim. So I will get the Philips bulb soon to try it.

Yes, I reconnected all the cables. I've checked all the other cables to make sure they are in their proper locations. Obtained a service manual and wiring diagram for the unit and still don't see anything wrong. I do know the filter on the light engine is almost burnt through, which was probably causing the color issue which I was trying to fix in the first place.

Another question: On which board is the basic memory (service memory, bios) located?

Well, the64gto, I used just some parts from the one I purchased on ebay. Taking apart the light engine was fairly simple, just remembering where each screw goes and in what order to put it back together. As far as fixing it, well, there is no pictures of an exploded view of each piece I was taking them out. I do have open views of the light engine itself and I also have marked the points from where the troubles were.

This first picture is of the light engine taken apart almost completely. Notice that I have removed almost all the components that would seem to be of no use while working.

The second picture I have marked where the aperature plate is. If anyone decides they are going to try this procedure, BE CAREFUL!!! The aperature has a mirror like finish that can be RUBBED OFF with THE SLIGHTEST TOUCH!!! I have included another picture of the previous pictures that I posted so you can see what it looks like.


The next picture is of the "filter", as I call it, on the front of the actual light engine assembly. The picture after that shows how it sits on the main unit. The giant burned hole is NOT supposed to be there by the way!

I simply took the second light engine apart, removed the pieces that I needed, made some minor modifications (I had to trim some of the metal off the edges of the aperature plate cause it was bigger than the one from mine. I also hot glued the filter onto main unit on the top being careful not to let it run down in front of the area where the light goes in. Sorry there are no pictures for this section, as I put everything together and turned the tv on, just to see it work and was as happy as a pig in s***! )

Now, as you can see, this is a simple fix. It's a shame that JVC has to be arrogant asses and could have had a satisfied customer, and made money from me (since I was ready to pay $100 for parts that cost $2.50!). But, oh well, it is what it is.

If there is any more information not explained here, then please feel free to ask, and I will try to answer the best I can.

Glad to see you're up and running...


RE: Initial setup of LCOS (D-Ila) R-B-G chips, Physical adjustment /placement of chip(s) during light engine rebuild/setup.

This is not covered in any official service info I've seen over the years as the light engine is usually replaced as a component.


Q: For you or anyone else who's had their light engine apart or may have read, acquired info on the initial setup of the light engine- OR may know of ADVANCED settings in the SERVICE MENU.


Did you notice any way to physically adjust the light engine LCOS (D-Ila) R-B-G chips?
(Adjust the convergence via set screws, shims, etc?)



On my 61z575 since day one doing the convergence adjustment via software in service menu? results in one of the colors (chips) being about a 1/2 step off- so the convergence (+) crosshair is not lined up perfectly.

Result is for computer use- image is not spot on.

IIRC = (As it's been a while)

A: There is only limited convergence adjustment via software.
B: I did not see in the service menu /service manual to adjust convergence in 1/2 steps.
C: Unless I missed some type of way to adjust in 1/2 steps- there has to be a initial setup of the chips via setscrews, or shims.


(While in the service menu (1) chip is "fixed" (Red?), the other two colors you align to form a (+) crosshair . One of the LCOS (D-Ila) chips is about 1/2 step off- so it's either too high or low) :mad:

IF ANYONE HAS INFO on aligning the LCOS (D-Ila) chips - feel free to post!

.

Glad to see you're up and running...


RE: Initial setup of LCOS (D-Ila) R-B-G chips, Physical adjustment /placement of chip(s) during light engine rebuild/setup.

This is not covered in any official service info I've seen over the years as the light engine is usually replaced as a component.


Q: For you or anyone else who's had their light engine apart or may have read, acquired info on the initial setup of the light engine- OR may know of ADVANCED settings in the SERVICE MENU.


Did you notice any way to physically adjust the light engine LCOS (D-Ila) R-B-G chips?
(Adjust the convergence via set screws, shims, etc?)



On my 61z575 since day one doing the convergence adjustment via software in service menu? results in one of the colors (chips) being about a 1/2 step off- so the convergence (+) crosshair is not lined up perfectly.

Result is for computer use- image is not spot on.

IIRC = (As it's been a while)

A: There is only limited convergence adjustment via software.
B: I did not see in the service menu /service manual to adjust convergence in 1/2 steps.
C: Unless I missed some type of way to adjust in 1/2 steps- there has to be a initial setup of the chips via setscrews, or shims.


(While in the service menu (1) chip is "fixed" (Red?), the other two colors you align to form a (+) crosshair . One of the LCOS (D-Ila) chips is about 1/2 step off- so it's either too high or low) :mad:

IF ANYONE HAS INFO on aligning the LCOS (D-Ila) chips - feel free to post!

.

I've done this on sets other than JVC's DILA. Generally I find that Green is the color 'fixed' in the Service Menu, but there's no reason a manufacturer might choose another color.

It's my belief that these are aligned in the factory when the brackets holding the panels are glued onto the rest of the light engine. Likely they use micropositioners (very common in the optics business) to move the panels, feed the panels a simple crosshairs from a test set, move them around and then glue.

There's variation in the assembling of the panels themselves, so when you replace a panel you might be off in convergence by an amount greater than the Service Menu allows to be compensated for.

In a 720p tv for example, the real panels are typically 1386 x 788. The service menus allow some adjustment of what 1284 x 720 rectangle within that is being used, in other words it defines the active area. For that reason the service menu can never give you 1/2 pixel.

The good news is that it might not have to. If you calculate the width of a pixel on the LCD panel itself, you will find it is around a half of one thousandth of an inch. A half pixel is two or three ten-thousandths. If all you do is loosen the countersunk screws on the misaligned panel and retighten them, the panel can easily move that much, even more.

Rotational convergence is more difficult to deal with, but do it the same way by rolling the dice on the screws once you have the up-down left-right done.

I've done this on sets other than JVC's DILA. Generally I find that Green is the color 'fixed' in the Service Menu, but there's no reason a manufacturer might choose another color.

It's my belief that these are aligned in the factory when the brackets holding the panels are glued onto the rest of the light engine. Likely they use micropositioners (very common in the optics business) to move the panels, feed the panels a simple crosshairs from a test set, move them around and then glue.

There's variation in the assembling of the panels themselves, so when you replace a panel you might be off in convergence by an amount greater than the Service Menu allows to be compensated for.

In a 720p tv for example, the real panels are typically 1386 x 788. The service menus allow some adjustment of what 1284 x 720 rectangle within that is being used, in other words it defines the active area. For that reason the service menu can never give you 1/2 pixel.

The good news is that it might not have to. If you calculate the width of a pixel on the LCD panel itself, you will find it is around a half of one thousandth of an inch. A half pixel is two or three ten-thousandths. If all you do is loosen the countersunk screws on the misaligned panel and retighten them, the panel can easily move that much, even more.

Rotational convergence is more difficult to deal with, but do it the same way by rolling the dice on the screws once you have the up-down left-right done.


2nd try at posting a response- Lost the first edit:mad:

Appreciate your input.

I understand totally, it would not take much to affect chip alignment.


My concern is how the panels are mounted. How they are attached. If they are adjustable. I don't think in all the years I've been following this thread anyone has ever gone into detail - or mentioned doing a panel/chip re-alignment.

(If someone knows of some posts that show or the poster talks about re-aligning the LCOS chips/panels -point me to them- I won't be offended! I may have missed those posts as other real life issues might have been going on when I received that e-mail on the subject)


Seems to me panels being misaligned slightly would be a common problem-
(EG: The panels being slight off- Customer notices at later date when connecting to PC slight convergence problem. Unit out of warranty.)

Q: You say you have aligned panels on other than JVC D-ILA's.... Have you done any JVC products of a similar type (Probably not)

Q: Percentage wise if you were a betting man- what are the chances of the panels having set screws- or being adjustable?
(I would assume units with set-screws- are once positioned are glued as well. -My concern if the panels are glued the amount of glue used, if panel could be moved without being damaged.)

Q: Is JVC known for building product with set screws- or do they glue exclusively?

EG: Are JVC products built with serviceability in mind -or are they built with no regard to future serviceability- I'm sure you know what I mean... I would assume that on sub assemblies such as a light engine- not much thought is put into future serviceability.

(I remember years ago on a Toshiba CRT HD set, vs a RCA set in which the RCA had the whole light assembly slide out for servicing while the Toshiba's components were "fixed" I thought being able to remove all the guts in whole was a plus for serviceability. - Of course this is apples to oranges as the light engine itself is more than likely when they were available a depot service item only- as the panel alignment without special fixtures would more than likely be not cost effective.)

Q: If panels are glued- any tips, or workarounds to loosen glue- glues to use upon reassembly? I would assume that glue would have to be of a type that would not interact with plastics used in the light engine optics- or attack the chips themselves.


Sorry for the additional questions, unit is currently out of my possession (Pre-sold to a family member who has no need to connect to PC and is VERY happy with the picture- But has made a comment she thought it was a ''plasma"- The unit has very low hours on it- Replacement cost far exceeds price I gave them so I may just go get it back since they haven't paid for it yet.)


I was hoping to hear from someone who has had the D-Ila light engine apart.
I have no issues tearing the unit apart- (Really I'm amazed I've never taken the unit apart since I take apart everything)

2nd try at posting a response- Lost the first edit:mad:

Appreciate your input.

I understand totally, it would not take much to affect chip alignment.


My concern is how the panels are mounted. How they are attached. If they are adjustable. I don't think in all the years I've been following this thread anyone has ever gone into detail - or mentioned doing a panel/chip re-alignment.

I'd bet money that they are attached with three or four countersunk Philips screws, M2.0. Chances of built-in mechanical adjustment V & H, slim to none. On some Sony SXRD's there is apparently an ability to make a slight rotational adjustment, but I haven't seen that one. Haven't seen mechanical adjustments on any other. Think through how you would do that; I've thought of modifying them to have that capability, and you get into an insane mechanical problem, and no real space to work in.

Seems to me this would be a common problem.
(EG: The panels being slight off- Customer notices at later date when connecting to PC slight convergence problem. Unit out of warranty.)

Yes, that's why vendor's Service Menus have the ability to shift a pixel or two. There's no logical need for more.

Q: You say you have aligned panels on other than JVC D-ILA's.... Have you done any JVC products of a similar type (Probably not)

I've had JVCs apart, but I've only changed panels on LG, Sony, and Hitachi.

Q: Percentage wise- what are the chances of the panels having set screws- or being adjustable?
(I would assume units with set-screws- are once positioned are glued as well. -My concern if the panels are glued the amount of glue used, if panel could be removed from mounting without being damaged.)

All panels I believe are both screwed and glued. The bare panel is screwed onto a metal bracket, and then that bracket is positioned in assembly onto the rest of the light engine in proper convergence, and then glued. The glue doesn't interfere with the original screws. It believe the glue is a UV-cured epoxy. I wouldn't try to remove the glue, and it shouldn't be necessary.

On the panels of most screws holding on panels, I do see a tiny bit of blue loctite. Easy to overcome, and kind of sort of reusable.

Q: Is JVC known for building product with set screws- or do they glue exclusively?

See previous.

EG: Are JVC products built with serviceability in mind -or are they built with no regard to future serviceability- I'm sure you know what I mean... I would assume that on sub assemblies such as a light engine- not much thought is put into future serviceability.

Serviceability is built in, but only if it's so cheap to do that it's almost free. Consumer products are very competitive wrt costs.
Panasonic is the only vendor I know of that even sells parts for the inside of their light engines. I suspect they just didn't want to train an army of their field techs on the optics inside a light engine for one product family.

(I remember years ago on a Toshiba CRT HD set, vs a RCA set in which the RCA had the whole light assembly slide out for servicing while the Toshiba's components were "fixed" I thought being able to remove all the guts in whole was a plus for serviceability. - Of course this is apples to oranges as the light engine itself is more than likely when they were available a depot service item only- as the panel alignment without special fixtures would more than likely be not cost effective.)

Q: If panels are glued- any tips, or workarounds to loosen glue- glues to use upon reassembly? I would assume that glue would have to be of a type that would not interact with plastics used in the light engine optics- or attack the chips themselves.

See previous

Sorry for the additional questions, unit is currently out of my possession (Pre-sold to a family member who has no need to connect to PC and is VERY happy with the picture- But has made a comment she thought it was a ''plasma"- The unit has very low hours on it- Replacement cost far exceeds price I gave them so I may just go get it back since they haven't paid for it yet.)


I was hoping to hear from someone who has had the D-Ila light engine apart.
I have no issues tearing the unit apart- (Really I'm amazed I've never taken the unit apart since I take apart everything)

I should have said, one thing going for you is the outstanding convergence service menu on the JVC. On some Sony's, it's just not there, on others it's damn hard to find in the SM, more or less unlabeled.

Pictures and some other good info here on DiLA general. Some show the panels, but not a straight shot. You can see the back of the thing that the panel screws onto.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=18793726&highlight=#post18793726

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=18798555#post18798555

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=18756836#post18756836

Thanks in advance for any help, and yes, I did use the search function... I found the set (JVC HD61Z456 on the curb. Before I start replacing ballast, lamp, etc, I wanted to see if anyone could help diagnose the main reason it ended up on the curb. When I plug it in and then hit power, the Front panel (power/lamp) LED's do NOT light up (the lamp and enclosure have been removed), this troubles me the most. What gives? When power is pressed the unit makes a loud tick noise that comes from the right (looking at screen) and an exhaust fan turns on. This is followed by a repeated noise that is best described as a low buzz, the buzz occurs 2-3 times, then with another "tick" the unit seems to shut off completely. This has been described with the lamp in and out, the LED's never come on. So, that is it so far, worth fixing? Thanks for any help...

-ryan-

It sounds to me, a non-expert, like your power supply went out, since you have no LEDs. And that may have taken out the optical unit. If this is the case, I wouldn't try a repair- not cost effective for a suspicious unit.

Hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I will chime in.

Mine will be 6 years old next month. I only planned on 5. But I hope it lasts a few more, I am quite happy with it. Whatever replaces it will have to be at least 61". I sure wish they didn't go out of production.

A 55" LCD goes for around $1,100 today, and a 63" plasma for around $2,000. So you've gotta wonder how much it's worth putting in to repair an RPTV.

I own a d-ila 61z575 , just recently the picture starting getting dim, 2 weeks ago the bulb broke and i got the flashing red and blue. So i looked around the web for a replacement bulb. I wanted a OEM , but didnt want to wait 2 weeks to get one from JVC in the states.(I'm in Canada). I found a website close to home that offered OEM replacement bulbs , they even had information on how to spot phony bulbs, pictures of the correct boxes , things to look for etc. I got the bulb, wasn't in a OEM box that i could tell ,but the bulb itself looked right. So i installed and away the Tv went, nice and bright again( little bit of green on the left side, but thats another story). A week later , I turn on the set and get the flashing lights again, no breaking noise. So i pull the bulb out and look for broke parts of the filament like my old one had, just a few specks . so i tried to reinstall , still nothing. checked the bulb fan , working. Then i had a close look at the outside housing of the bulb. i Noticed the one lead that goes to the side of the bulb was loose by quite a bit. and the screw was already touching the bulb, so someone used the wrong screw and there was no QC to check this. Plus the bulb says made in china on the side. So my questions are: do u think this is an OEM bulb? (i thought the box would be JVC,PHILLIPS,OSRAM and made in Japan). And also do you think the loose wire may have damaged my set? just thinking of the ballast etc. the picture was fine for the week and a half while it worked with this bulb, no flickering etc. Can i check for voltage with a dvom at the bulb socket? what kind of voltage should i see? I have sent off an email to this company this morning to see what they say.
thx in advance :confused:

well not replies yet, just got informed the bulb is enroute.

well not replies yet, just got informed the bulb is enroute.

Meaning the company that you last ordered a bulb from is sending you a new one. ? Hope that is true and you have better luck

Yes. Please keep us updated.

will do, should get the bulb today. I'm going to have a close inspection before installing. just hope the rest of the tv is ok:o

Yes. I don't have faith in getting repairs today. And I'm quite happy with mine. I'd rather keep it a few more years. But I must admit it's already lasted longer than I expected.

me too, i bought the tv for way too much in 2003. And hopefully she"ll run for another year or two before this new green glow thing engulfs it. the first bulb lasted almost three reset timers. I still am very happy with the picture of this tv. we've been using a panasonic 50vt25 from another room, mounted on a table in front of the jvc pretty good picture on this , but the dila still has the nicer colours IMO. I have the bulb now, but i got home from work too late to mess with it. I wanna have a good look at this one before installing. hopefully tonight.

Didnt get a chance to get to the bulb until sunday. The box and packaging were different from the first one they sent . Also the bulb was different looking from the org and rep . Kinda makes you wonder about this website bragging about only selling OEM bulbs. Anyways , i had a good look at the bulb, wires tight ,connections look good, this one wasnt made in china, but still no company name on it or the box. I installed the bulb and the tv works fine minus the green glow in dark scenes. Anyone know a timeline for green glow ? I can live with the glow in the picture as long as it doesnt get worse very fast. looking to get 1-2 years more from this tv. The panny was much better with the black detail as expected.

Not sure if it's guaranteed to worsen. I guess we'll know as you keep us informed! :D

I have JVC as stated above working with a Denon AVR-890, all sources HDMI. If my TV is off, I get lossless audio from bluray. When the tv comes on my sources only output 2 ch LPCM. It's like the tv tells everything down the chain that they should only output 2 ch. Has anyone else had an EDID error like this? Denon told me to get a new tv (not likely as the picture is still perfect) and JVC said the issue was unknown to them. Talk about frustrating. Great picture and 2 ch sound doesn't make for much of a theater experience.:confused:

are running hdmi from bluray to avr then to tv, nothing else?

Yes, thats correct.

Are there any user upgradeable firmware fixes out there?/ Does JVC ever issue firmware updates for these sets?

I doubt you will ever see any firmware upgrades from JVC on these sets. They have been discontinued for quite some time and the population of them is declining through attrition.
The only exception would be if some type of safety issue were discovered that could be addressed through a firmware upgrade.
The hdmi "standard" has never been real solid and quirks like yours do seem to come up now and then. Most of it comes back to the handshake process. Have you tried different cables?

My D-ILA had HDMI issues right up until I gave it away a year ago. Over time their nature changed, but they remained until the end. It was still working like new (flaws and all), I was just ready to move on.

I have one of the very first 52" HDILA (silver) with the stand made just for this TV. Six years passed last August, I was hoping it would blow up before then so my Amex extra year warranty after the 5ry warranty would replace. I have had one service recall done on it, I don't even know what it was and I have had one bulb replaced using my warranty from PC Richard. The TV was crazy expensive back then but it has treated me very well. I have an HDMI switch from three sources going to the one HDMI port on TV. I used to get a handshake problem from my DVR, but that seems to have slowed down (I think it is a combo of the DVR box and the TV hdmi). The picture is great on this tv but I can't stand the artifiacting I sometimes get.

I recently replaced the stand with a cabinet and now I have this useless HDILA TV stand sitting in my garage. I can't bring myself to throw it away, it is in good shape (glass and all), what do I do with it? I was thinking about trying to sell it but who the hell even has this tv that would want the stand now, very slim audience, oh well.

I have been thinking about replacing the TV but just cannot justify doing that before it breaks because of how much it cost back then.

I have one of the very first 52" HDILA (silver) with the stand made just for this TV. Six years passed last August, I was hoping it would blow up before then so my Amex extra year warranty after the 5ry warranty would replace. I have had one service recall done on it, I don't even know what it was and I have had one bulb replaced using my warranty from PC Richard. The TV was crazy expensive back then but it has treated me very well. I have an HDMI switch from three sources going to the one HDMI port on TV. I used to get a handshake problem from my DVR, but that seems to have slowed down (I think it is a combo of the DVR box and the TV hdmi). The picture is great on this tv but I can't stand the artifiacting I sometimes get.

I recently replaced the stand with a cabinet and now I have this useless HDILA TV stand sitting in my garage. I can't bring myself to throw it away, it is in good shape (glass and all), what do I do with it? I was thinking about trying to sell it but who the hell even has this tv that would want the stand now, very slim audience, oh well.

I have been thinking about replacing the TV but just cannot justify doing that before it breaks because of how much it cost back then.

I might actually be interested in that stand. Lol. I just got one of these off craigslist for free. (They were upgrading to an LED and my 60" Philips RP had just died so it was a match made in heaven.)

All I had to put into it was a new lamp.

I do have a question for those that have owned this TV before thought. How in the world do I get this thing into Theater Pro mode without the OEM remote? (Currently using a Vizio Universal) Doesn't seem like it's possible, which I hope isn't the case because I don't want to shell out close to $60 for a remote I'll barely use.

Thanks!

I don't know that you can. Although I've owned one of these for about 5 years and sold countless sets having calibrated them all, and I'm not sure that you want to be in theater pro. Get yourself a calibration disk and set it up manually and I believe you'll be much better off.

I don't know that you can. Although I've owned one of these for about 5 years and sold countless sets having calibrated them all, and I'm not sure that you want to be in theater pro. Get yourself a calibration disk and set it up manually and I believe you'll be much better off.

Yeah, after reading a little more I'm less interested in TheaterPro and more interested in the service menu it seems.

The colors on this set are "off". Reds are powerful and vibrant, blues less-so and greens even less than that. I'm kinda under the belief at this point that someone attempted to calibrate this set on their own because pictures that I'm seeing of other sets are putting forth a lot more impactful of a picture than mine is at this time.

Looking like I'm going to have to get an OEM remote for this thing.

EDIT: This TV is used on an HTPC and luckily I was able to use the Windows 7 Display calibration utility to fix some of the issues in my picture as a workaround until I get the remote. All in all, the grayscale on this wasn't even close to right, but the picture that I have now is very nice and on par with some mid-level LCD's I've seen. Hopefully when I can get into the deeper levels, this thing will wake up a little more.

My lamp just blew this weekend and I went to costco to see what they had to offer (90 day return policy FTW). They had the Sony KDL-55HX800 on sale for $200 off so I decided to buy it and try it out (last one they had).

I know I can buy a replacement lamp for between 100-300 depending on where I purchase, but I may just keep the Sony, the picture on the Sony has blown me away. I cannot believe the difference in quality, up until now I really didn't think the new sets would be that much better than the JVC HDILA, man was I wrong.

Don't get me wrong, my JVC has been fantastic since 2004, didn't go through lamps like others and no real HDMI issues. I am going to put an add up on this forum and on CL to see if I can get a little bit of money for the TV and stand. I am sure someone would like to benefit from my need to spend even more money on a newer set.