RonC--have you read the DVD Player section of the AVSforum about the HD941? There are numerous complaints of green flashes from the 941 thru HDMI.

Esteps,

Yes I have read about them. I also saw the green flashes (and sometimes followed by multicolored snow) using the HDMI output of the Samsung HD941). The whole screen flashes uniform green.

But I'm experiencing a problem that also showed up using a Toshiba DVD player as well (at least for 480p thru component since it doen't upconvert to 720p).

What I referred to earlier is massive green "push", especially in the shadow areas, or dark scenes. It even shows up in the "darker" areas of blonde hair! (Can you say 'Green wood furniture'?)

In direct view CRT terminology, then I think what I'm seeing is called a misadjustment of "screen" or "bias" levels. I believe is also covered under the term grayscale tracking (that is, gray is gray at mid- and high-brightness levels, but not at low brightness level). But in the case of this TV, the problem is there ONLY using 480p thru component, or 720p thru HDMI.

The problem is not there when using 480i component from the same DVD players, and it is not there when using either compnent or DVI/HDMI from the set-top box.

I've tried adjusting the G Drive in the service menu. It helps but doesn't get rid of the problem for the darker areas. If I compensate to make the 480p or 720p look better, then every other input gets green "deficient" and I wind up with a pink cast.

To me this is a TV problem, not a DVD player problem.

RonC

berk:

Per the manual, pg 4,
side clearance is to be 150 mm (both sides) or about 5.9 inches
top clearance is to be 200 mm or about 7.9 inches
rear clearance is to be 50 mm or about 2 inches

RonC--
Oh, I see. I had the same problems with the HD950 and now the 941. So I use component with the upconversion hack with no problems. But I would love to use HDMI.
If you can get a remedy from JVC let us know.
esteps


Esteps,

Yes I have read about them. I also saw the green flashes (and sometimes followed by multicolored snow) using the HDMI output of the Samsung HD941). The whole screen flashes uniform green.

But I'm experiencing a problem that also showed up using a Toshiba DVD player as well (at least for 480p thru component since it doen't upconvert to 720p).

What I referred to earlier is massive green "push", especially in the shadow areas, or dark scenes. It even shows up in the "darker" areas of blonde hair! (Can you say 'Green wood furniture'?)

In direct view CRT terminology, then I think what I'm seeing is called a misadjustment of "screen" or "bias" levels. I believe is also covered under the term grayscale tracking (that is, gray is gray at mid- and high-brightness levels, but not at low brightness level). But in the case of this TV, the problem is there ONLY using 480p thru component, or 720p thru HDMI.

The problem is not there when using 480i component from the same DVD players, and it is not there when using either compnent or DVI/HDMI from the set-top box.

I've tried adjusting the G Drive in the service menu. It helps but doesn't get rid of the problem for the darker areas. If I compensate to make the 480p or 720p look better, then every other input gets green "deficient" and I wind up with a pink cast.

To me this is a TV problem, not a DVD player problem.

RonC

How much space do you need to leave beside/behind/above the TV for proper cooling?
The manual states:

200mm top (approx 8 inches)
150mm sides (approx 6 inches)
50mm back (approx 2 inches)

My 52" JVC is in a built-in and has about 12 inches to the back wall, but side openings are only 1.5" on the sides and about 4 inches on the top. Seems to vent fine, though. If I put my hand in the space behind the TV after viewing for hours, the air doesn't seem any hotter.

As for the Samsung HDMI, when I used the 325 it didn't seem to produce the correct colors at 720P upconverting either. The 1080i upconversion looked much better. But I've gotten rid of that and am fine with a Toshiba DVD giving 480p over component.

Not sure how I would take a picture... I mean you have to be about an inch from the screen... I'll see what I can do tonight.


Good point, macro mode maybe?

If it's only visible from that range, are you sure it's not the screen itself? The texture of it? You will see the the grid type pattern of the screen.

Esteps,

Yes I have read about them. I also saw the green flashes (and sometimes followed by multicolored snow) using the HDMI output of the Samsung HD941). The whole screen flashes uniform green.

But I'm experiencing a problem that also showed up using a Toshiba DVD player as well (at least for 480p thru component since it doen't upconvert to 720p).

What I referred to earlier is massive green "push", especially in the shadow areas, or dark scenes. It even shows up in the "darker" areas of blonde hair! (Can you say 'Green wood furniture'?)

In direct view CRT terminology, then I think what I'm seeing is called a misadjustment of "screen" or "bias" levels. I believe is also covered under the term grayscale tracking (that is, gray is gray at mid- and high-brightness levels, but not at low brightness level). But in the case of this TV, the problem is there ONLY using 480p thru component, or 720p thru HDMI.

The problem is not there when using 480i component from the same DVD players, and it is not there when using either compnent or DVI/HDMI from the set-top box.

I've tried adjusting the G Drive in the service menu. It helps but doesn't get rid of the problem for the darker areas. If I compensate to make the 480p or 720p look better, then every other input gets green "deficient" and I wind up with a pink cast.

To me this is a TV problem, not a DVD player problem.

RonC

Actually, it's probably a DVD player problem. Quite a few DVD players with a particular Faradouja chip has green blacks. The Zenith 318 has is, a few Denons I think, etc. I have no such green blacks with my Denon 2900, but I did with my old Zenith.

Actually, it's probably a DVD player problem. Quite a few DVD players with a particular Faradouja chip has green blacks. The Zenith 318 has is, a few Denons I think, etc. I have no such green blacks with my Denon 2900, but I did with my old Zenith.

Kid Red,

If the Faroudja chip is potentially the problem, does it make sense that:

1) I only see the problem using progressive (either 480p or 720p) out of the DVD player(s), and
2) I don't see the problem using interlaced (480i) output of the DVD player(s)?

If it does make sense, then does it follow that the Faroudja chip is only used by the DVD player when outputting progressive scan, and not used when outputting interlaced scan? :confused:

RonC

:D I am officially an OWNER now! :D

Received my 61Z786 yesterday. It came a bit after 3pm. I was surprised that their was only 1 delivery guy! I helped him bring it in my house and asked him why he was by himself and he said he was used to it. I asked how he would have gotten it in if I wasn't there to help and he said he's done it plenty of times. Well, I would have liked to have seen that but NOT with MY TV! Anyway, no big deal, I just thought that it was odd.

I LOVE THIS TV

The fiance and I put the TV on the old TV stand and I quickly hooked up the comcast cable motorola DVR box so we could have a picture to look at while we put together the JVC (rkcilam6) stand. All I can say is "WOW!" when that thing came to life I knew I made the right choice. What a beautiful picture and just an all around nice looking TV. The stand is made for the 52/56/61 model TV's and was not to hard to put together but a bit time consuming and occasionally confusing (What put-it-together-yourself item isn't?) The last step is screwing on a couple of rubber stoppers to the top in pre-started holes. The underneath of the TV has two spots where these stoppers fit into and thus help make the tv extra stable. Well the pre-drilled holes were wrong for some reason and we had to play around a bit and get it right ourselves. Again - not a big deal just a bit time consuming. What a nice TV stand and it swivels too!! And TVA to gave it to me for less than $200!!! Plus they gave me free shipping!!! I have nothing but GREAT things to say about TVAuthority, this has been a great experience so far.

:eek: UH-OH :eek:

The TV is NOT; however, perfect.
After getting the TV on the stand and sitting down and looking at it for a few minutes I noticed what looked like a bug sitting on the lower left side of the screen. I went to knock it off and found that it is not a bug and whatever it is, is inside the screen. It almost looks like a pice of thread and I don't know if it is actually on the inside of the screen or if it is a shadow of something being projected on the screen. I will try to take a picture of it tomorrow and post it. After careful inspection of the rest of the screen I found a much smaller (barely noticeable) little "spot" on the upper left. You could only notice them if there was a white or bright colored image over the area. I guess I'll have to decide wether to call TVA for a replacement or if it should be a JVC service call. Hey that sucks and all but I did not let it take away from the extreme joy I had of playing with and watching this TV for the first time.

As soon as I turned it on I went through the settings and took the advice I have read from many right in this forum and turned off all of the "effects" (i.e. color management, dynamic gamma etc..) I haven't done any other adjusting yet but I have to say that the pictures I am seeing look damn good. Watched a DVD (Cursed - a werewolf flick w/ Christina Ricci) and I had NO complaints with colors, black levels...anything!!! Standard cable is (of course) not GREAT but it IS very watchable and I would have no problem watching any channel but the HD channels look SOOOOOOOOOO GREAT that you start thinking you won't WANT to watch anything less than GREAT on this TV!!

Quickly scanning through the different video modes I thought "theater" looked a bit too dark and made all of the color seem much less vibrant. I have just been using standard for now until I actually get time to start tweaking/playing.

One more thing I noticed just before I came to work, I quickly scanned through my DVR recording of "toolbox" (I forgot I had recorded it) which is a program on INHD that shows some test patterns and tells you how to do some adjusting to your picture. Looked like pretty basic stuff to do pretty basic setup, nothing too dramatic. I did notice another potential problem on a test screen of geometry. It showed some lines on the top, bottom, left & right and everything looked fine EXCEPT for the line closest to the right side of the screen. I could see the line on the top portion of the screen but as it went down the bottom half was NOT visible ands I could see some "fringing" of it where it was just out of the sight line of the tv screen. Not sure what to make of this. Even if I COULD move the entire right side of the screen to the left it wouldn't seem like it would be a solution because the TOP half of the line seemed perfect while the bottom half was somehow misaligned and missing.

OK - I've rambled enough for now. I am at work until 11:30pm so I am going to spend my time reading the manual and perhaps searching the forum for some of the problems I've mentioned.

Any suggestions on returning this TV for another or getting it serviced?

All in all, it is GREAT to finally be an OWNER on the OWNER's thread!!!

oh crap.... is it not possible to output optical audio from the set when audio is coming in via hdmi?

I have a hdmi cable coming in from my PVR and was hoping to be able to push that digital audio out the optical output.... I guess I was wrong.

:confused: Quick Question :confused: :

-just perusing through my tv manual and I was wondering about the "ATSC/Digital cable in" input.

Currently I have cable coming from the wall to a splitter. 1 cable then goes to my DVR cable box which I then hook back into the tv with DVI/HDMI cable. The 2nd cable I have hooked right into the TV's "VHF/UHF input".

What would I get if I hooked (for argument's sake) a third split cable directly to the "ATSC/Digital cable in" input. I am under the impression I would need to hook up an actual antenae to this input to see OTA digital channels. Is that correct? If I hooked another straight line from the cable feed into it would I just be getting another tuner?

Just sitting here at work and wondering and thought I 'd ask before actually trying it out.

Thanks!

:confused: Quick Question :confused: :

-just perusing through my tv manual and I was wondering about the "ATSC/Digital cable in" input.

Currently I have cable coming from the wall to a splitter. 1 cable then goes to my DVR cable box which I then hook back into the tv with DVI/HDMI cable. The 2nd cable I have hooked right into the TV's "VHF/UHF input".

What would I get if I hooked (for argument's sake) a third split cable directly to the "ATSC/Digital cable in" input. I am under the impression I would need to hook up an actual antenae to this input to see OTA digital channels. Is that correct? If I hooked another straight line from the cable feed into it would I just be getting another tuner?
Thanks!

Yes, you're correct. But you could buy a cheap indoor HDTV antenna
and hook it up for giggles just to see what you pick up...

quick pic of "spot" behind screen:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=41576&stc=1


...more later

SenorPete, that looks like thread or something. If it's big, it's most likely on the opposite screen, not the front screen. That would be the back of the set basically as the image is reflected from there. Maybe figure out about where that would be and gently tap in that location? If not, you may be tempted to open it up, and blow in there with compressed air or something gentle.

Kid Red,

If the Faroudja chip is potentially the problem, does it make sense that:

1) I only see the problem using progressive (either 480p or 720p) out of the DVD player(s), and
2) I don't see the problem using interlaced (480i) output of the DVD player(s)?

If it does make sense, then does it follow that the Faroudja chip is only used by the DVD player when outputting progressive scan, and not used when outputting interlaced scan? :confused:

RonC

:eek: Ah, I can't answer your questions as I'm not that educated on the inner workings of DVD players. I only know that my Zenith had green blacks, so I got a Denon. While researching Denon, I found that a certain Faroudja chip 210? or something had the green tint issue. So I made sure I picked up a Denon without that issue/chip. I'm just saying your DVD player might have this chip, if so, then it might not be your TV.

Maybe do some research on your DVD player for more info?

I'm wondering if JVC debuted there 1080P sets at the CES recently? I was reading that a guy at the show liked the new JVC 1080P sets better than the new Sony SXRD sets. Anyone attend?

jvc techs said they would be at my place friday by 11 or 12, with a new light engine, my fingers are crossed that no new issues develop from the repair, the jvc service is awesome, i emailed them because i started back to classes this week and gave them my cell number to contact me with any info and they sure did, anyways no class this friday so i will be home watching them might try to get some pics of the job,

quick pic of "spot" behind screen:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=41576&stc=1


...more later

Dude this is what I'm seeing as well and wasn't sure I would be able to get a picture of it. Mine is smaller though and can only be seen when your really close to the set.

oh crap.... is it not possible to output optical audio from the set when audio is coming in via hdmi?

I have a hdmi cable coming in from my PVR and was hoping to be able to push that digital audio out the optical output.... I guess I was wrong.

Interesting...I have been messing around with trying to output optical audio (to my receiver) since I got my TV setup. Just gave up and am running alalog.

Curious...did you read somewhere that you can't output optical audio when audio is coming in via HDMI, or just figure it out. For the life of me...I couldn't figure out what I was doing wrong.

Thanks for setting me straight. Can send my optical cable back.

Rob

about those pics, i read somewhere here in the forums that some had plastic filings in between their screens, that looks to me like the pieces of plastic i get when i modify a case or something, you know like if you trim plastic to do whatever, those little curls

..A few more shots to give you a little better idea of the size. I originally thought it was a fly so its about that size.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=41588&stc=1

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=41593&stc=1

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=41594&stc=1

Kid Red - I think it looks like a thread too. Possibly on the inside but I am thinking (like you) that it is being projected onto the screen from somewhere else.


gfoulks - your "spot" sounds like my second one. very small and hard to see unless you really look for it. (which of course you do after you find it!)

...here is the other spot in the upper left part of the screen. It is much smaller and I probably never would have noticed it if I hadn't gone over the whole TV very closely after finding the first one. I tried to get a picture but it was a lot harder. here it is:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=41595&stc=1

The only decision to make I guess is either call TVA and get a new TV or call JVC and get service.


...again I LOVE THIS TV.

about those pics, i read somewhere here in the forums that some had plastic filings in between their screens, that looks to me like the pieces of plastic i get when i modify a case or something, you know like if you trim plastic to do whatever, those little curls


...that could certainly be a possibility too!

I emailed JVC two weeks ago and never got a response. I don't want to send this TV back so I guess I'll JVC for service....

I emailed JVC two weeks ago and never got a response. I don't want to send this TV back so I guess I'll JVC for service....
dont email call the 800 number in the manual, call them 3 or 4 times you will know they got your problem on record when they tell you your phone number and stuff, once it gets that far its a matter of days before you will be in touch with a jvc tech and the repair shop that will handle the issue, when you call dont do the enter your model number thing , just go on hold until someone talks to you, do this everyday until you get a call from a service center and then you are golden, it sounds like a lot but it really only has taken 2 weeks for me, most of that was part authorization/ordering, jvc is great on service just stay away from the website email, hope that helps

homeguy:

The Jan 2005 CES? Yes- there are posts about it- not much, but they were impressed with the set.

I've been a long time lurker and I wanted to thank you all for your posts on this TV. Seriously, I cannot thank you all enough. As a result I purchased the 56G786 and received it two days ago. It was not easy choosing a TV and it took me a while and the information from this forum helped me make my decision. In the end I went with the JVC because of a number of factors. I really like the fact that the image looks the most like film of any of the tv's I've watched and that there are no rainbows. I hate LCD's screen door effect and I can see it a mile away. I must admit I did like the very detailed image of the samsung pedastal, but it's only a 50 inch and didn't have firewire (not that I can do anything with firewire right now). Here are some things I think I can say to people who are looking at the JVC now: Blacks "look" black. What I mean is that I was very concerened about this issue because I watch tv in a dark room. What I've found out is that blacks look black to me. An example, if you see an image of someone's eye their pupils look pitch black. I'm not knowledgable enough to comment on the significance of CR and black levels but I am very fully able to enjoy watching a dark movie like Aliens. My perception fo black is satisfactory regardless of what the specs may say. I haven't calibrated the set at all yet, I will tonight and then again in about three weeks. For now though, the image in a good HD feed over an HDMI cable from a SA 8300HD is simply breathtaking. I watched the Six Feet under in SD on my old 32" CRT last Sunday and then in HD on the JVC D-ILA last night. It was like a different experience... a very breathtakingly improved experience. Halo 2 will knock your socks off. It feels like I have an unfair competitive advantage. It is simply awesome. DVD's are fantastic from my Sony DVP-NS755v over component. Part of my problem was choosing the size of TV. I sit 8.3 feet from the screen and went with the 56. If it wasn't to big for the room, in hindsight I would have gone for the 61" because the image quality is so good that I can sit that close without being distracted by artifiacts. My recommendation, as a result of my own experience is don't be afraid to go big with this TV, the technology will allow you to do it. As for the stand that everyone is complaining about, it's ok. It looks fine and it wasn't difficult to put together. It is perfectly solid. However, it cannot hold heavy high quality audio components without bowing the wood. You will need to purchase something else for your heavy componenents. For free, it's a great stand and that's that.

However, all is not perfect. A couple of things I noticed. 1) I had set my SA 8300 to output all formats over HDMI so the TV's scaler could do the conversion. This caused problems. The biggest of which was that occasionally the TV would not be able to connect to the STB over HDMI until I turned the tv off and on...a three minute process. My fix is to have the STB only output 720p. Problem solved and it looks grrrrreeeaaattt! 2) The image is ever so slightly tilted so that the left side is about 1/4" to 1/2" inch higher on the right side than the left side. Honestly, this is not a big a deal, nor a deal breaker for me. Also, I think it can be adjusted (Those in the know please share). 3)It's Bright! But we all knew that. I think calibrating it should offer some relief. 4) No direct inputs on the remote. Are you shitting me? I mean come on. This really is annoying in day to day use. I will have no choice but to buy a universal remote5) mild silk screen effect/shimmer in very bright images, but I think calibration can take care of that.

In the end, I think 720p LCOS was the way to go. 56" is the perfect size for my set up and looks fantastic. I saw the Qualia at Harvey's in NYC. It looked great but it was 13K, as oppsoed to $1899 with the stand! Also, I feel fine not having 1080p. I'm not yet convinced it's worth the money or that I'm going to miss out on much, if anything by not having it for atleast the next few years.My girlfriend loves it, she really loves it. Final words. I have zero buyers remorse. Actually I use my favorite number...I have -0 buyers remorse.:)

Gulley: Great review and thanks for taking the time to post. I viewed the 61 JVC" next to a Sony LCD and I thought they both looked great. I saw pixel artifiact on the JVC but that could have been the feed. Please get a DVD or HD feed with explosions and fast paced scenes and see if you can detect any breakup of the picture. I saw this in the store with a very clean HD feed. On the explosions scenes I saw boxy pixels but not on the Sony. It could have been cabeling or maybe the response time on this set is not the greatest. I also read if you turn off Cinema Pro, I think, it should help remove any artifacts in fast moving scenes. The only thing I didn't like about the Sony is that there is a SDE and the image is a little flat. I think many companies sacrafice whites to get deeper blacks. The Toshiba DLP really impressed me with their whites vs. black levels. The only thing that really concerns me about your post is that you said the picture is tilted about 1/4 - 1/2". I would love to see a pic of that. Doesn't that annoy the heck out of you. It sounds like a defect to me-I would have it looked at by JVC. One last question: Was the Qualia head and shoulders better looking then the JVC? I would think it would be. What was the main differences that you saw. Thanks and enjoy your set.

HomeGuy, Block noise has not been a problem on either DVD or HD. However, I noticed in a best buy some Block Noise on the JVC, even when there wasn't any on the samsung next to it. I hate that. However, in my home it has not been an issue. Fast motion and explosions appear normal. Maybe it was the source, or the cables on the set you saw. As for the tilt, it's really minor. I mean you have to be looking for imperfections to see it, let alone notice it during normal viewing. I'm anal so knowing that it's there bothers me, but the visual impact is not reduced at all by its presence. I will probably call JVC but I wanted to put a test pattern on the screen first to quantify the problem before I waste mine, or JVC's time. As for the Qualia, yes the picture was awesome but I could buy a decent car with the difference in price, let alone travel the world in comfort to see in person some of the places that look so gorgeous onscreen on the Qualia. I was debating wheter or not to wait for the SXRD's. They will, almost surely be great sets. Probably better than the JVC. But you know what, I will still be very happy with my JVC and the 4K I saved at the price I got it for. Plus, the JVC is not a "new" model or process coming out of a new factory. It's more like D-ila 2.0 and the Sony SXRD, for all intents and purposes is 1.1. The JVC seems like a safer bet and I have it now. As for response time, actually I thought the JVC was better than the Sony LCD's. I may be wrong, but I don't think so.

*Oh yeah, for those who care I do not hear the fan at all in my room which has hard wood floors and no carpet. I'm 34 with perfectly good hearing by the way.

Gulley, thanks for the info, specifically the fact that it looks good from 8.3 feet. That's about where I'll be, and I was worried that was too close.

I might have to forgo the newer JVC sets and pull the trigger on a 70" 720P set. I guess I'll wait and see what the prices bear.

gulley,
screen tilt, there is a thread in these forums for a tourque technique that works, mine slanted ever so slightly from left to right, but the twisting off the screen fixed it, search for kid red posts that will get you going...

i am getting my light engine replaced tommorrow , anything i should do in preparation? the set is easy to get to, the room will be well lit and dusted down before they arrive to keep that down, should the set be warmed up or cold?

-before coming into work I threw in the 2nd Matrix movie and went to the part of the movie where Trinity & Morpheus are on the highway fighting bad guys and traffic.

...man does this tv rock!!!
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D

Gulley- A few owners have posted that pushing and pulling the corners of the set ever so slightly can fix that tilt issue. You can really notice a 1/4" for 10 feet back? As for the tv itself, you really need to at least use a THX disc from SW2 or Incredibles, something to get the set going. Once calibrated the word bright barely enters your vocabulary.

Hi,

Know this is an owners thread but I wanted to get your opinion. I saw the 61" JVC tonight and I thought the colors were deep and beautiful and the whites look good with no annoying SDE. I did see a few sparklies but nothing too bad. The JVC was next to a Sony set and the Sony set had better blacks which I guess is not saying too much. Is it possible that JVC decided to make a bright picture with great color saturation and great whites at the expense of blacks? A lot of companies go for better black levels at the expense of true whites and this makes for a bland picture. What are your thoughts on this. Overall I'm impressed with the JVC and am surprised that they are not selling off the shelves at the price point they are at. Perhpas problems with the first generation sets has soured some. Also, how is getting service on these sets? I'm reading a mixed bag on this.

If you adjusted the Sony to the same brightness (or vice versa) would it still have better blacks? I would guess not. The JVCs are far brighter than a lot of the other units, and their black level reflects this.

So I would say yes, they have made the picture bright at the expense of black level, but the color saturation is separate from this issue.

Zero issues or picture imperfections with my set for 1month, BTW, one of the new 56".

BB

Also, how is getting service on these sets? I'm reading a mixed bag on this.


i am finding the service from jvc to be excellent, i do not like how the customer phone service gives you the canned response but after bypassing that and getting a service tech things move swiftly,if you ever place a call dont enter your model number just stay on the line until you get a person, once they have you on file you are golden. the techs should be here within the next hour or so, they will replace my light engine and i will post later about the results, the good thing is i am off this weekend so i can scrutinize the set post repair, except for the purple spot this set is awesome so i hope no other problems pop up :confused:

Thanks Kid Red. I'm not at home right now so I can't try it. I looked back at how people did it on previous threads but I'm a little confused. Could you explain it to me like you would to a child? When they say push pull to torque the screen can you describe it exactly? My screen is tilted at a slight incline from left to right. Does that mean I should press my palms on the SCREEN of the TV and press down with my right palm and push up with my left palm on the screen? Or does it mean to torgue the tv holding the left edge of the set and puling it towards me while pushing the right edge away? I'm a little confused about where exactly to place my hands and exactly which way to push and to pull. Does push mean up and pull me down? Sorry to be difficult I just don't want to hurt my new baby- you know?

I just picked up DVE. I'll calibrate it this weekend. I just wantewd to add to my prvious post regarding blacks. For clarification blacks appear black in anromal scene. However, when scenes get dark the set does have trouble. Shadow detail is lost and the set does appear somewhat muddy. I now understand what people were talking about. Really it only impacts viewing a dark scene, but I do see it. Still, I can live with it and it really is amazing it well lit scenes. I guess it's a limitation of the technology right now. Still would have gone with the JVC over other choices though. The TV is in a very very bright living room so I can watch the set during the day without a problem.

Gulley- I've never done this, but I'm sure you grab the cabinet corners, not the screen. I'd maybe push away at the edge that has the drop down screen edge and see what happens. Someoen had said that just barely doing this fixed their issue, so don't do in thinking HeMan types thrusts, just try to softly tweak it and watch the screen as you do. I'd try it with the signal on so you can follow any progress.

People who say the JVC is bright hasn't seen one calibrated. Once calibrated with a good DVD player, contrast/picture would be -10 area (-20, -15, -10, etc) and would greatly take the punch off. JVC has Dynamic Gamma on and Smart Picture, both of which tone down brightness, so they also have it bright to compensate. Turn OFF every feature, and calibrate from there. Good luck.

Hi,

Know this is an owners thread but I wanted to get your opinion. I saw the 61" JVC tonight and I thought the colors were deep and beautiful and the whites look good with no annoying SDE. I did see a few sparklies but nothing too bad. The JVC was next to a Sony set and the Sony set had better blacks which I guess is not saying too much. Is it possible that JVC decided to make a bright picture with great color saturation and great whites at the expense of blacks? A lot of companies go for better black levels at the expense of true whites and this makes for a bland picture. What are your thoughts on this. Overall I'm impressed with the JVC and am surprised that they are not selling off the shelves at the price point they are at. Perhpas problems with the first generation sets has soured some. Also, how is getting service on these sets? I'm reading a mixed bag on this.


Son sales mean more profit for the stores that sell them. So, that's one knock against them. The second is name recognition. When was the last time you bought, heard of or saw a JVC TV? Also, CC doesn't carry them, which hurts their market I think.

As for service, I bought my Z series in March, had the light engine replaced 3 times and JVC just hooked me up with a brand new G series 5 months later. That good enough service for you?

Thanks for the quick response Kid Red. I'll give it a shot.

Thanks Kid Red. I'm not at home right now so I can't try it. I looked back at how people did it on previous threads but I'm a little confused. Could you explain it to me like you would to a child? When they say push pull to torque the screen can you describe it exactly? My screen is tilted at a slight incline from left to right. Does that mean I should press my palms on the SCREEN of the TV and press down with my right palm and push up with my left palm on the screen? Or does it mean to torgue the tv holding the left edge of the set and puling it towards me while pushing the right edge away? I'm a little confused about where exactly to place my hands and exactly which way to push and to pull. Does push mean up and pull me down? Sorry to be difficult I just don't want to hurt my new baby- you know?

grab the black bezel about midways on top, pull or push GENTLY on the corner that is tilted and watch how the image reacts that will be a good starting point, it worked on mine. do not push the screen itself and use minimal force like opening a door so it wont squeak you will feel the "give" and it doesnt take much, it seems that once the image tilt is where you want it let off and check again, when finished you will be like dang it was that easy?

i just had the optical assembly replaced and my initial response is that it is greatly improved, with the picture and brightness settings at 0 like they were pre repair the purple spot was just barely visible(the tech saw it too) upon a quick run with avia and his test generator the new brightness and picture are set at -16 -10 the purple spot is gone :D , i will drill it harder this weekend but the tech said give it a few days and if it wasnt any better call my jvc contact and he would be happy to come back, he is 2 hours away and said its no trouble because jvc pays good plus mileage, so we will see, the post repair geometry is still spot on and color looks good(more this weekend) , this was the first of this model he has worked on but he loves these sets and has one of the exact same at his home, he said he chose it for the quality of parts and the picture quality, he had also been to several trainings from jvc for these sets. we even watched 30 minutes of sin city just to play find the spot, plus he gave me his service manual and the light engine replacement instructions for a trade of the friday the 13th box set(copies), i can get those back easy, all in all i am impressed by these guys plus he said if he has to do the engine swap 2 more times that jvc would swap the set and he would deliver it himself, he said he wishes he had more jvc to fix because they pay so good but he has only repaired 3 including mine the others werent dilas , his opinion was to avoid rca,sony,philips and go with tosh, mits, or jvc rptv. in any case he left my set more than watchable with freebies, and his personal phone #, i just have to wait until later tonight to put it through the ringer....JVC rules

Dang it really was that easy! Darthsg and Kid Red, Thanks. Amazingly simple. I popped in DVE and used the geometry test pattern. Set is perfect now. I need to do the whole gamut of calibrations but that fixed the tilt issue nicely. Just need to work on the blacks. I didn't want to say it but the tilt issue was starting to bug me. I'm very glad to see and report that it is super easy to rectify.

I am sure this has been covered before, so apologies for repeating, but...

What, if any, difference is there between the Zx86 and the Gx86? The only place I have seen selling the Zx86 (specifically the 52Z786) is at Costco.com. In their description, they say that it has a 4-point color management. But, in other descriptions of the Gx86, I've read that is has a 5-point color management. Is this a misprint by Costco? I can't even find any information about the Zx86 on JVC's website.

Any help would be appreciated.

Wow! It's great to know that JVC is willing to go the extra miles to make its customers happy. That makes me feel better about JVC. My quandry is to either get a JVC 70" D-ila now for under 4k or wait for a 61" 1080P D-ila for about the same price. My 3rd choice is to buy a 60" Sony SXRD whcih everyone thinks will be the best set out when it debuts. I returned my Sony A20 although it was a very good set but the SDE was annoying as well as the flat picture. The Sammy 1080P sets actually look much softer then the older sets so new is not always the best technology. Any opinions about the new JVC sets vs. the current crop?

I have a new problem I think, but I'm not sure if this is a common thing or not.

I had the set with the red spot on it sent back, my new set looked perfect for 1-2 weeks. However, I noticed when I had my PC on with an all white background, the bottom left corner was a bit on the red side, and the bottom right corner was a bit on the yellow side. (about 12-14 "ish" inches on each area)

I tried calibrating it out with limited success. I turned my settings from:
R 113
G 128
B 113

To:
R 115
G 122
B 121

Now it is still there but not quite as visible. Color temp is on high, if I put it on low greens are great again, but the yellow spot is more obvious again. (more of an "area" than a "spot".) Greens are "meh" now. Could be better, could be worse. Is this something that's common, or is my Tv defective?

BTW I've noticed that Dynamic Gamma crushes blacks at sometimes, but helps at other times, this is frustrating. :mad: It also makes artifacts (digital) more apparent when it is turned on.

I'm really considering a 720P JVC 61" or 70" set. The picture is stunning in HD at BB. Today I went into PC Richards and they were playing SD on the JVC set and it looked much worse than nearby sets in the store (actually pretty horrible). I'm assuming there was a problem with the feed since even their HD content didn't looked that great. Anyway, I'd like to know:

1. How does the set look in SD? Have u compared it to other sets?

2. How is the detail in dark scenes? I've read a few posts that say the TV gets muddy and loses detail in dark scenes.

Thanks in advance

Today I went into PC Richards and they were playing SD on the JVC set and it looked much worse than nearby sets in the store (actually pretty horrible). I'm assuming there was a problem with the feed since even their HD content didn't looked that great. Anyway, I'd like to know:

1. How does the set look in SD?
I haven't compared to other RPTV's, but SD on my 52" G model looks good to me. Yes, it does depend on the feed. But even OTA looks OK to me. Playing a VHS movie through a JVC VCR with S-Video out, the picture looks great, almost like a DVD.

It does make a difference the farther back you are. My normal viewing is around 14 feet. SD looks very good at that distance. Going back in my kitchen to 20 feet or so it still looks good. But I imagine getting closer than 10' wouldn't look as good, or if I had the 70" set and sat at my viewing distance. So, keep in mind viewing distance plays a factor. I am very pleased with the SD picture on this set.

well after about 8 hours of tuning my set in morning light, afternoon, evening, and total dark conditions i have come to the conclusion that this set kicks more ass than ever :D . i used avia and dve back to back concentrating mainly on black level and white level, after the engine swap i have more "play" in the controls. previously i left the settings at 0(out of box settings) and got great results on the test patterns, now the brightness is set at -20 as is the picture. the blacks are blacker and whites were never a problem with this set, the purple spot i had pre repair is gone until the brightness and picture get above 15. there is no more bluish tint to blacks. the only oddity i have noticed is that pre engine replacement the color and tint were set to 0(out of box) and passed avia and dve checks with minor adjustments to the r g b drives in the service menu, now without going into the service menu i must set the color to 30(all the way up) and the tint to -4, but at this setting there is no deviation on avia or dve. there is no green or red push, it just seemed odd to go all the way up with color. i did have to adjust the color alignment(9 while in service menu) right after the repair but that only took a couple of clicks. there were no geometry distortions before or after repair. even with the picture and bright set lower than before this set is still plenty bright :) , i watched sin city(4th time) and its almost 3d and razor sharp, fifth element is up for now, as well as a mix of sd D*(which is very good on this set). before the swap i showed my wife the purple spot and we both played find the spot until the repair, we have been playing find the spot all day and no one wins :D . if the set stays as is i will not call jvc back except to thank them.

dart: This is great news. I'm glad you got the set working the way it should. Just a few questions:

How is the SD on this set? Also, how is the glare from the screen? Did JVC recall all the light engines in the 86 series? How is the detail in dark scenes? I'm thinking of buying a JVC but am having a hard time deciding between the new Sony 60" SXRD, a 70" 720P JVC or a 61" JVC 1080P set.

darthrsg- Good to hear. Now you see why I refunded my BB warranty. With JVC service so good, I figured I'd save the money for a new bulb.

gulley- Glad to hear :)

Joe Hendrix- The issues are minor really. The G series is better, but I'd say maybe 10% better. It does have a tuner, and may have fewer issues, but isn't a night and day leap forward. If you get the Z under $2k, I'd might go for it. Especially from costco. The color thing is really moot, because the Z series nailed color OTB just like the new one does. They both nail colors OTB.

DIGITAL HAZE- Colors in the corners on a white background is color fringing and means the light engine needs to be replaced. There should be Zero color change going into the corners. Take some pics and call JVC. I never use Dynamic Gamma as it does more harm then good.

Homeguy- SD is as good if not better then most other sets in the 52" range. I've never compared the larger sets but I'd gather the JVC holds its own. As for dark scenes, that is a weakness of the JVC, but I've never compared other sets to know if the JVC is flat just bad at it or not. With a clean signal, a noise filter power center and properly calibrated, the JVC isn't unbearable in that respect. But OTB with an old DVD it might look a tad noisy and some really dark areas just meld with black. There is no glare on the screen. If you can wait, I'd might wait for the 1080p, just because it really future proofs you.

dart: This is great news. I'm glad you got the set working the way it should. Just a few questions:

How is the SD on this set? Also, how is the glare from the screen? Did JVC recall all the light engines in the 86 series? How is the detail in dark scenes? I'm thinking of buying a JVC but am having a hard time deciding between the new Sony 60" SXRD, a 70" 720P JVC or a 61" JVC 1080P set.
i can not speak for the sonys, the sd on my set is very good, some channels better than others, once set up properly. i would try all types of connections with the jvc as it has a great comb filter. we sit 9 feet away and have had no complaints, at 10 or more it would be better still, as for glare there is none unless i have the overhead light on(rarely), you can watch this set with all curtains open in broad daylight. as for shadow details i dont think im missing anything, i consider underworld to really push black levels as well as shadow detail and it looks great to me, also the opening of the fellowship of the ring in the shire is a good test with the sun streaming through the tress behind gandalf and the mine stuff, my opinion on sonys are they are for bragging rights and status look at the ps2 disc read error, my friend has a wega crt 36inch it is loaded with geometry errors that really bug people(50 yard line is curved), with this jvc there is no geometry errors, the lines on test patterns with the stretch modes are all straight, i looked at a lot of sets before buying and had it narrowed down to the sammy or jvc, i personally never even look at sony stuff simply because everybody and their mother does look at them, but when you go to sony households no one says whoa at the screen, but at my house they always comment on my picture, sony for me is good if you have other sony products they will behave= my 2 cents

dart: You're convincing me to buy the 720P JVC set I saw for under 4k delivered. I think I need to see the newer 1080P sets. I really don't think there will be much of a difference in seeing detail but the optics and contrast may have improved. I really want to stay at 4k. Even that for a TV is kind high.

Thanks for the reply Kid Red, that was a life saver. (only have a few days left on my warranty.) I'll first go back to Best Buy and see if they recommend replacement or fixing...... (I hadn't noticed it before on my other RPTVs so I thought it was odd)

Yeah, I've noticed dynamic gamma does more harm then good. So what I do is calibrate on Standard without it on, then use similar settings with DG turned on in game mode, with slightly less brightness. (for those rares times while playing in foggy online FPS levels where it helps me see better. :D )

Joe Hendrix & kid red:

The diff between the G & Z x86 models is the cabinet. The bezel is a bit thicker on one- the G, I think. Kid Red, you answered comparing the 5x5 series to the x86 series. The x86 series have the same guts.

navychop- I was comparing the Z52 to the G52. The differences are new light engine, new electronics, cabinet is smaller, iLink, HD tuner and lower price.

Joe Hendrix, Kid Red, NavyChop

Either there is an "unusual" new model, or Costco just has some misprints on their Website.

IF you look at the costco website, you'll see they list the model# as [Model HD-52Z786] , Not 52Z575 or 52G786.

This picture looks like the 52G786, and most of the specs are correct for the 52G786 (Atsc tuner,TheaterPro Mode),. The things I see missing from the description are VGA input and 5-point color management.


My guess is its the 52G786 and that they just aren't being detail oriented, I mean it is listed under DLP sets, haha.

chazno, Kid Red, NavyChop;

Thanks for the input. The picture they show does look a lot like the 52G786 (Black model). I could just go for it, since Costco has a very generous return policy, but it is still a bit pricier than you can find elsewhere. Or.... I could wait until the 1080p models come out, but it doesn't sound like JVC is coming out with a 52" version of the 1080p, and the bigger models would just overwhelm my living room (as if a 52" version wouldn't).

The Sony SXRD's sound particularly intriguing, but not only are they large screens, but they've got the huge wings (speakers) on either side, making for one very large TV.

Anyone predicting that the price of the 720p's will come down, once the 1080p's come to market? Any ideas yet on when JVC is going to release their 1080p's?

I read that JVC plans to release the new sets in September. I was also told this by someone who works at JVC.

The press release for the 1080p stated it would be late 3rd quarter. On my calendar, Sept = Late 3rd Quarter. The problem for you( and me) is that they will probably release them the same way they did the x86s. Meaning the 70" come out in Sept, The 61" in October, and 56"(smallest announced) in November.

Joe Hendrix:

Call TVA and discuss price: 888 286-5353

You might be pleasantly surprised.

Hey folks...

I've noticed something about my new 52g for the past couple of weeks and never bothered to look into... Tonight I just had to see what I could do.

I was watching MNF and when the sideline reporter came on I noticed that the shadow beneath her bangs instead of being black or dark... was actually green. I've noticed this more than once on many different channels where the shadows of a persons face are tinted green.

I thought I saw some mention on this here before but I am not sure how to correct it.

I've attached some pictures, I hope my digital camera was able to capture the problem.

Thanks for your help and or comments.

http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b145/gfoulks/TVSTUFF001.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b145/gfoulks/TVSTUFF002.jpg http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b145/gfoulks/TVSTUFF003.jpg

The green tint is very apparent. Did you check the tint setting on the set? Did you call JVC and ask a tech? Is it too late to return the set? Good luck

I used DVE to calibrate and found that +2 tint worked the best for the color filter provided with the dvd. I've not called JVC yet and no it's not late to return the set.

Could this be a g drive problem where it needs adjusted or do I maybe have a light engine problem? I don't see this all the time it's only noticeable when a person is the main focus of the shot and it's a close up shot. I thought maybe my set needed to settle in but it's been a couple of weeks now and it's not changed.

I wouldn't wait another minute. I know that JVC was replacing light engines but am not sure if it was older sets are not. I'm sure someone here will chime in. Accept for the problem you're having how do you find the detail in dark scenes and black levels?

Thanks it looks like a nice set u have.

set aside this problem.. This TV ROCKS! and is the best TV I've ever owned. (NOTE- It's my first HDTV so I don't have much to compare it to)

I love this TV and honestly think that the black levels look black and the details in black look just fine. The color, the brightness, the viewing angle, multiple inputs... I LOVE THIS TV!

Now if I could just get this little issued corrected I'll be a completely happy camper.

gfoulks- Wow, what a mess! If you can return it, that's an option. Or just call JVC, they'll ask you to email those pics and you'll probably need a light engine replacement. So, it's do you want to wait for BB to ship you a new set after standing in line for 20 minutes and then waiting 1 hour for BB to do the return, or making a phone to JVC and keeping the same set?

It's your call. I returned my first one because I was nervous, but I'd call JVC and maybe gauge their opinion and then go for it.

okay for those that have called JVC in the past... Did you call the general support number or does anyone have a more direct number that I can use? Maybe a number that can get me to a group that can handle this problem directly.

Well, I went to BB yesterday and looked at the 56G786 they had on display, guess what? It does the same thing my set does! I've now noticed that you can only see the yellow and red bottom corners (on white backgrounds) if your eyes are below the center of the picture. My stand is a bit on the high side and my eyes aren't that much above the bottom of the picture, they should be 5-6" higher.

Does this sound like a problem now? Or is it just the way they work? I urge all of you to check this out. (takes a minute, that's all) Just put a white screen on the TV, and view the TV with your eyes at the lower part of the screen looking up, then move your head higher. The "spots" go away then. I'd like to know if they *all* do this before getting the set exchanged for nothing.

EDIT: I just called a JVC certified tech. from my area and he agreed, it sounds like the set just works this way. Give it a try folks, you'll see what I mean!

Hopefully someone that happens upon this "problem" (and this thread) will realize it's no big deal and not go through a return/repair hastle for nothing. :)

This set does rock otherwise, when you consider the alternatives (DLP rainbows/game lag, LCD screen door, CRT RPTV size and bulk, ect. you see just how awesome this set is.)

Mine does it... though it's not very noticeable. In fact I've never noticed it until I set out to look for it. Might just be an optical illusion because of the viewing angle and the elements of the set needed to create a white image. I don't notice it during normal viewing.

^^^Thanks for the reply. I think we sometimes forget these are "projection" TVs and will not be as perfect as CRT (direct view). I'll take my 56" picture over a 36" any day though.

okay for those that have called JVC in the past... Did you call the general support number or does anyone have a more direct number that I can use? Maybe a number that can get me to a group that can handle this problem directly.
When I called about this "non problem" I went 2 routes. I tried to talk to JVC directly and got an unknowledgable drone. Then I went to the repair service route, and talked to a JVC certified tech from my area. Obviously the guys that actually come out and fix the TVs are going to give you the best answer. :) I got his number by giving the correct info on the official JVC line. (the one in your tv manual)

My take is it COULD (big IF there) just be the G drive being way too high? I know out of the box mine was higher than the rest of the colors. (113 red, 128 green, 113 blue) At BB I also snuck a look at theirs. :D Theirs was 114 red, 128 green, 115 blue. It seems out of the box G drive is high, and if you have color temp set on low, you will get quite a bit of green. Maybe your G drive is set even higher, or the other colors are too low. Did you get in the service menu yet?

BTW I noticed the sideline to the right of the reporter also shows the "problem" I had inquired about. :D (its not as white as the sideline on the left, in fact that one looks slightly redish)
http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b145/gfoulks/TVSTUFF001.jpg

No I've not jumped into the service menu for a couple of weeks. I can easily do that and make some adjustment to the RGB drives but I didn't want to tweak anything if this was in-fact a problem with the light engine.

Like I said it doesn't happen all of the time and it seems that certain conditions have to be met before it will show itself. I had to pause my Tivo and rock back and forth between frames before I was able to capture the worst of this...

Using the test patterns on DVE won't produce this kind of output so it is difficult to recreate. Therefore difficult to know when it will happen and I'll be in a position where I can pause and dedicate anytime to make the drive adjusts.

It looks like the white balance is off. As if the commentator was lit with fluorescent lights and there was no color correction made either in the camera or on the fluorescents.

That sounds like a tough problem to solve. I can't help but wonder if it has something to do with the fact that your white there on the sideline looks pretty bad. I just wonder if your TV was adjusted like mine, if you could see the green shadow anymore. (if it would look black under her bangs)

My old 32" CRT used to glow yellow on the right side, red on the left side, on bright/white scenes that were left on pause, or just were onscreen a long time. Making color temp more blue helped this somewhat. So to my eyes, I'm used to color temp being high. I've noticed that turning off dynamic gamma makes colors seem more natural too.

When it comes down to it, you are not going to make every scene that comes by look perfect unless you want to sit and adjust your tv everyday. If I were you I would look at many sources and play with the RGB drives some, plus color temp. If I hadn't done that, I would have sent my TV back for nothing. If you then think it is something you can't adjust out under reasonable settings, send it back, it's your money!

I mean, making RGB drives all around 120ish should be fine, but if you have to turn green way down to like ~100-110 or lower, and/or make blue drive 130+ to get rid of the problem, that really wouldn't be acceptable. My drives are R 115, G 122, B 121. Greens don't come on so strong now as they did with the original R 113, G 128, B 113 settings, but they are still "green", and please my eye. My color temp is high. Color temp on low throws all of these settings out of the window. I just prefer whiter "whites", so that's why I have color temp high. Bad analog tv can look bad under these settings, but that's more the signal than my TV. For that I use the naturally greenish theater mode.

EDIT: or of course as Larry has pointed out, it could be ABC and not your set at all. You have to view many sources to determine if it's your tv. (I don't use AVIA or DVE because I believe the set has to look good to *my eyes* and I use various DVDs, games, TV channels, ect. to arrive at my settings. My set has to show the material I actually view 90% of the time too look good to me, I don't care about what's "correct", I care about what looks good to me.....which is never going to be far from "correct" anyways.

sorry gfoulks, having watched the same telecast in HD on my 61Z786, I can confirm miss tafoya did NOT look that green at all (in fact it was a picture with near flawless color)

something is definitely wrong with your set, although it may be green push, it certainly looks like the tint is way off

green push is generally not so objectionable to most people's eyes

I would think that's light engine issue as he said it's not always green. Green tint would constantly have a green tint to the image. If it's only sometimes, then that's a light engine.

I'll call JVC... maybe it is something as simple as a incorrect drive setting. Are JVC techs certified to do calibrations? Maybe JVC will spring for a calibration before doing a light engine swap. I'm just afraid that a light engine swap could introduce more problems....

Still there if color temp set to high (which is where I leave mine)?

A asked this earlier and didn't see a response....

When I unplug my JVC from the wall, all of the settings return to default. Is this normal? What can I do to alleviate this (other than not unplugging it)?

gfoulks- JVC techs won't calibrate, they'll just replace parts as far as I know. I think it's a light engine.

SouthBark- Yes, the JVC has no way to save info without power. There's no battery to keep that info so I write all my settings down.

Would the loss of data from being unplugged also apply to service menu adjustments made by an ISF cal?

navychop- Hmmm. I don't think so, because once change those become default don't they? Hard to say for sure, but I would think that those keep.

Well, after you get yours ISF'd and the guy leaves, try unplugging it ...... ;)

seems my green drive was set to high. I got into the service menu and saw that my g drive was much higher than the others.

Is there a test pattern available that I can use to adjust my rgb drives?

seems my green drive was set to high. I got into the service menu and saw that my g drive was much higher than the others.

Is there a test pattern available that I can use to adjust my rgb drives?
I don't know of any test pattern, other than testing out certain scenes that you know show any green push problems. What was your G drive set at anyways? I noticed from the factory alot of them seem to be 128, while R and B are only 113-115.

158! where the others were set to 112 and 115 respectively.

A test pattern would be nice... wouldn't one think that if you used equal amounts of R G and B you would get white?

Equal *amount* of RGB would give white, but (just talking as an engineer here, not someone that actually knows much about the technology) this does not equate to equal *settings* of RGB. For example, I have a camera that takes color photos by exposing the *same* CCD to first R then G then B (using a color-tuned LC filter). The *duration* of the exposure is used to set the whitepoint (with B being *much* longer for most cases). I could certainly imagine that the G light reflects/absorbs differently on the LCOS panel so the setting is different.

In this case, actually getting a perfectly white image (and finding some way to *measure* how perfectly white it is) would be a good "test pattern" :)

In this case, actually getting a perfectly white image (and finding some way to *measure* how perfectly white it is) would be a good "test pattern" :)
My eyes suffice for me. :) If I try to make it perfectly white, the greens become horrible. (not green enough) So I at first made it white (to my eyes), then back off a few notches to make the greens more passable. I am pleased with the settgins now. And frankly, this is just the way the set is. (red and yellow/green down in the lower corners) I know now they are part of how the set works, but they still annoy me. I just made my settings a comprimise between whites and greens. I came *this* close to sending it back for a CRT RPTV, but then that would have opened a can of worms far worse than this "problem". (as in definately not having enough room for a CRT RPTV because I need to have my DVD, games, ect. under my TV or I'll never have the room)

(using a color-tuned LC filter).

Does the "LC" stand for Liquid Crystal, or Inductive/Capacitive Filter? :)

I have a 52g786 and I think my set is a little green, especially when it first starts. I am able to get to the service menu ok but have not changed anything as of yet. Before I do, is there a list of what 's' register does what, I do not want to guess and lastly how do you save the changed value. ?? Tx Mike

I know many have commented on the fact that more people post problems than good experiences, so I just wanted to put my success story out there. Got an HD-56G786 from buydig.com. Looks great, no problems. Very happy with it.

Also, I just want to recommend buydig.com. After my poor experience with HDTVtime.com (cancelled the order - a wasted 3 weeks), I ordered from buydig online. I ordered on the 25th and it was shipped the same day. Tracking information was provided, and the tv got here Tuesday (3 business days later). Came in excellent condition, no problems. Wasn't here for the delivery, but it went smoothly and they brought it inside.

Now that the JVC owners have had their sets for a while, what is the consensus... Would anybody go with a different technology if given the chance?

hello jvc HD70G886 owners,

i received delivery today of this set, and i must commend the great service from onecall.com

out of the box after a minimal color adjustment, the picture is great, and i cant wait to get an isf calibration.

THIS IS MY MAJOR CONCERN; FAN NOISE!!!!!!!!!FAN NOISE!!!FAN NOISE!!!

PLEASE LET ME KNOW IF I HAVE MADE A TERRIBLE MISTAKE!

ARE THERE ANY RECOMMENDATIONS/TWEAKS FROM THE FORUM MEMBERS?

any ideas or success in this area will be greatly appreciated. i am almost prepared to take any measure to make this set work.

thanks for your time and consideration.

My set is doing fine. The fan noise is no louder then the fan keeping my AV components cool so it;s not an issue for me.

As for regrets, everytime I think, man what's out there today is cool. Then I see the price and feel somewhat better. Then I come home and watch the JVC for a bit and feel much better. I do have gripes, my biggest is dark shadowy shades seem to get muddy/noisy. But that seems to happen mostly when you have the brightness set too high. Turn brightness down some and that noise is greatly reduced and I then become weary of black crush. But I think at that point I'm nitpicking because the colors on this baby rock. And with a filter mod, there's not much to complain about.

Does the "LC" stand for Liquid Crystal, or Inductive/Capacitive Filter? :) Don't know how it could be liquid xtal, but it surely isn't the other. ;)

gfoulks; turn the color level down to '0'
What color is the screen?
If it is greenish, it need to be grey scaled. If not, the encoder might be off.

Since people actually seem to care (for some reason) how my camera works, I meant Liquid Crystal (as I am sure you knew), and the website of the product is here:

http://www.qimaging.com/products/lcf/qimagingrgbfilters/

zebulun,
i agree i bought my set after seeing the reviews on service here, as well as seeing what the stores carried around here in my area. the price was great. the jvc service is great. i will buy jvc again.

of note, in my area there is no more gas, people started hording it yesterday and now all of stations are empty, most of the fuel trucks go through here to get to gulf coast and louisiana, the gas lines looked like the 70's, the price is only 2.70 or so, i am surrounded by idiots

Since people actually seem to care (for some reason) how my camera works, I meant Liquid Crystal (as I am sure you knew), and the website of the product is here:

http://www.qimaging.com/products/lcf/qimagingrgbfilters/


I wouldn't have asked the question if I already knew the answer.

I just figured there was something I wasn't aware of that is a factor with this new technology, and just wanted some clarification so I could better understand your post.

Thanks for taking the time to answer my question, and sorry if it was an inconvenience! :)

I wasn't getting annoyed with anyone sorry if it came across like that. I simply thought from the replies that the posters knew it was liquid crystal, but weren't exactly sure how it would work so there were some tongue-in-cheek "guesses" as to what else I might have meant.

Anyway, there it is, hope it is interesting...

Can an "owner" confirm for me that there are *not* separate picture settings for each input on the G series sets? Playing around with one at Sears last night seemed to suggest this (*really* archaic menuing system BTW...surprising). I would like to like this set, but I am not sure about the UI.

There are four different settings Standard, Dynamic Theater pro, Game for each input which can be adjusted and saved.

of note, in my area there is no more gas, people started hording it yesterday and now all of stations are empty, most of the fuel trucks go through here to get to gulf coast and louisiana, the gas lines looked like the 70's, the price is only 2.70 or so, i am surrounded by idiots

It's the end of the world as we know it. I'd better stop waiting and buy my set now.

There are four different settings Standard, Dynamic Theater pro, Game for each input which can be adjusted and saved.

4, meaning that you can 4 separate settings that would then be useful for 4 different inputs (for a total of 4 :) )

or

4 for each input, meaning that if there are 5 inputs there are really 20 different settings because all four are useful (different) for each of the inputs?

Also, isn't the "Theatre pro" the one that is supposed to track 6500K or lower the brightness or some such, and does that mean that the other three are "inferior" slots (if the first supposition above is correct)? (or can you still choose the same 6500K-friendly color space and simply call the picture settings "theater"?)

Thanks for your help.

4 separate settings for each individual input. I'm not sure what the correct answer is for your second question.

projoe- I see what you are saying, but unless you plan to watch DVD over S-Video, then unplug and plug in with Composite, then unplug and plug back in with Component,t then unplug, and well you get 4.

What I also don't seemed mentioned is along with 4 settings per input, you get those settings along SD as well. Meaning I use Standard for cable. It's calibrated for HD. However, it remembers when I go to a SD or even Digital channel still on that same Standard setting. So, Standard has 3 settings for me, all automatically changed depending on the channel I'm on. It remembers the setting for HD, for Digital and for SD (under 100). So it's really 4x3 times each input.

As for Theater Pro, that changes the setting Theater to the default settings. So in order to get 6500k, you lose all of your calibration settings for Theatre.

els: fan noise

This has been posted elsewhere. Put the TV on something soft, like a tablecloth. Put a small piece of foam behind the TV where the fan blows. These will help reduce the fan noise and vibration.

I finally had the repairguy at my house today to fix my set's sound problems. He had ordered a new sound board and went to hook up the new sound board into the TV. He took the back off and slipped in the new board. Then we hooked it back up and tried to get it to read the antenna broadcast to try out the sound, but we didn't receive any signal. He said that maybe something was not connected properly since the antenna reception logic is on the same board as the sound and went to try to fix it. I was messing around with my computer at the time and then he mentioned that the whole assembly would have to be taken in to get fixed. He said smoke came out of another board when he turned it back on.

Ugh... So now I went from an annoyance problem to an unusable TV till it's fixed. I'm also worried about other features getting messed up while it's being fixed. He took the whole assembly that had all of the TV's logic and stuff on it, including the lens. I'm worried about the lens and stuff getting damaged in transit or in storage or wherever. Should I be worried or do you think it's fine?

As a side note, does everyone else's TV make a popping sound when you turn it on about 10 or 15 secs or so. I'm wondering if that was my sound problem rearing its ugly head or just something the TV does.

Welp...I guess I'm glad I have an extended warranty. Maybe I'll eventually get a new upgraded TV out of this one :)

Kyle

asudem, my tv doesn't make any poping news after I turn it on (yet, fingers crossed). Good luck.

I posted this question on a separate thread, but have not received any response , so I'm posting it here in the hope that some of you who actually own the JVC D-ILA line can help:

"I've been looking at a DLP in the 58" to 62" range to replace my Pioneer Elite Pro-610 RPTV, and came across the new JVC D-ILA's. I really liked the picture on the 61Z786 (I have used a JVC D-ILA projector for the past 4 years), and was basically all set to purchase one when I looked at the instruction manual for the TV on the JVC website. On page 4 of the manual, it says you have to provide clearance on the top, sides, and back for ventilation. It recommends like 150 mm on the sides, 200mm on the top, and 50 mm on the back, which would basically preclude using the TV in a cabinet.

"The cabinet I would be using for the TV would have no clearance on top or side and the very front of the cabinet, and but there would be clearance on the top and side as you move to the rear of the TV, as the TV tapers to a point in the rear like most new sets. Also, I would have about two feet or more of clearance in the back, and the cabinet sits away from the wall about 4 to 5 inches. I've called JVC and asked them if they think I would be ok under these circumstances and they said they thought I would. But I was wondering if anybody else is using the JVC in a cabinet or in a situation with not a lot of clearance, and if they are experiencing any heat build up or issues?

"BTW, I examined the TV carefully after learning about this issue, and I can't figure out why JVC is so cautious. There are no vents on the top or side of the TV, and no part of the top, side or back was even warm to the touch, except in the very back where the fan was there was a slight warm breeze. In short, even though the TV had been on several hours at the store where I was looking at it, there did not seem to be any extraordinary heat.

Thanks for your help."

I posted this question on a separate thread, but have not received any response , so I'm posting it here in the hope that some of you who actually own the JVC D-ILA line can help:

"I've been looking at a DLP in the 58" to 62" range to replace my Pioneer Elite Pro-610 RPTV, and came across the new JVC D-ILA's. I really liked the picture on the 61Z786 (I have used a JVC D-ILA projector for the past 4 years), and was basically all set to purchase one when I looked at the instruction manual for the TV on the JVC website. On page 4 of the manual, it says you have to provide clearance on the top, sides, and back for ventilation. It recommends like 150 mm on the sides, 200mm on the top, and 50 mm on the back, which would basically preclude using the TV in a cabinet.

"The cabinet I would be using for the TV would have no clearance on top or side and the very front of the cabinet, and but there would be clearance on the top and side as you move to the rear of the TV, as the TV tapers to a point in the rear like most new sets. Also, I would have about two feet or more of clearance in the back, and the cabinet sits away from the wall about 4 to 5 inches. I've called JVC and asked them if they think I would be ok under these circumstances and they said they thought I would. But I was wondering if anybody else is using the JVC in a cabinet or in a situation with not a lot of clearance, and if they are experiencing any heat build up or issues?

"BTW, I examined the TV carefully after learning about this issue, and I can't figure out why JVC is so cautious. There are no vents on the top or side of the TV, and no part of the top, side or back was even warm to the touch, except in the very back where the fan was there was a slight warm breeze. In short, even though the TV had been on several hours at the store where I was looking at it, there did not seem to be any extraordinary heat.

Thanks for your help."

It doesn't matter if it's a DLP or a D-ILA, you still have to provide adequate ventilation. No matter that there are no vents on top or side. Just placing a microdisplay in enclosed space is not recommended. That hot air building up in the rear needs space to escape. It can't be closed in. Many people do put these sets in an enclosure, but make sure there is at least an inch or two on the sides and top to allow air to escape. Even this may not be enough. Lots of people rather than risk damage to expensive electronic equipment, provide ventilation by having the rear open and/or installing fans or a ventilation system in the space where they are placing the set. The maximum safe operating temperature for TV's is normally around 95' Fahrenheit. You can place thermometer in the rear by your set's vents and check it after the TV has been on for a while and the temperature has stabilized. Remember, the interior temperature of your TV is going to be hotter than the outside where you are measuring so if you get a reading much north of 87'-88', it's probably wise not to leave your TV there unless you install some sort of cooling system. You may also void any warranty you may have. Don't forget, microdisplays and CRT RPTV's run hotter than a tube TV. They have high-intensity lamps and DLP's run even hotter since they have a rapidly spinning color wheel as well.
you have to be very, very careful and plan ahead if you intend to enclose them...

Is anyone using the Samsung HD950 with this TV over HDMI? I'm getting a weird issue where the audio is skipping. The picture looks great when it is converting to 720p, but the audio skips every second or so. Furthermore, I can hear a subtle clicking of sound in the background when there is no disc in the player. I'm trying to determine if this is a problem with the player or the TV. Any suggestions?

Smitty- I have my set in s cabinet, but there is no back. So while it barely has 3" along the sides and top, the back is open so the hot air does out of the back of the unit.

darthrsg- What was the media lying about? Glad you got thru ok.

BestBuy JVC HD567BP6 What is it?
BB is listing this set in its flyer today. Could someone decipher this model# for me. I spent 5 hours looking yesterday and am wanting to buy/try soon.

first post - but have read, read, read...

BestBuy JVC HD567BP6 What is it?
BB is listing this set in its flyer today. Could someone decipher this model# for me. I spent 5 hours looking yesterday and am wanting to buy/try soon.

first post - but have read, read, read...
That's the one I got from Best Buy. It's just BBs number for the JVC HD-ILA 56G786. 56" all black TV, with the newer (but not 1080P) chips, built in HD tuner, PC port, ect. You'll love it! :)

Is anyone using the Samsung HD950 with this TV over HDMI? I'm getting a weird issue where the audio is skipping. The picture looks great when it is converting to 720p, but the audio skips every second or so. Furthermore, I can hear a subtle clicking of sound in the background when there is no disc in the player. I'm trying to determine if this is a problem with the player or the TV. Any suggestions?



I recieved my 56" a week ago and noticed the same problem with skipping. At first it was with my oppo dvd player but thats now fine, now Dish network skips. I have to asssume the JVC is at fault.I havn't had a chance to hook up my Ht system since relocating a few weeks a ago. I have the dish hooked up with HDMI.

Hi All.
I got my 56 g acouple of weeks ago, dishnetwork installed last week. HD stuff looks really good while sd is pretty much unwatchable. Could someone post thier settings as a starting point?. I've tried different resolutions but feel like I'm spinning my wheels.
Thanks,
Zaxdad

strandard-
color +2
tint +1
picture (anywhere from -20 to +15
brightness +6
detail -15
color temp- low
everything else OFF

Make sure yo cable box isn't upconverting the SD feeds, that may make them worse.

ATTN: asudem, rlbjr, Zaxdad and other with sound problems.
Please read these to see if there is similarities.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=575169
I think JVC has an audio problem.

thanks navy chop and the others who replied to my fan issue.

in addition to these, i wonder if anyone has cut the plastic grille where the fan exits the air. i have been told that the elimination of "frilles" cust down on the noise. i will certainly try these concepts, and report.

Curious for those having fan noise problems... How are your rooms laid out? Meaning.. Do you have hardwood floors, any drapes over the windows? Tv in a cabinet? Viewing distance...

I've had my 52g for about three weeks now and I do not hear my fan at all. The only time I hear it is when I reach around the back of my stand to adjust the exhaust fan on my component cabinet. Only then do I hear and feel the fan on the TV.

Curious for those having fan noise problems... How are your rooms laid out? Meaning.. Do you have hardwood floors, any drapes over the windows? Tv in a cabinet? Viewing distance...

I've had my 52g for about three weeks now and I do not hear my fan at all. The only time I hear it is when I reach around the back of my stand to adjust the exhaust fan on my component cabinet. Only then do I hear and feel the fan on the TV.

I do not know how to approach my noise. Is it normal....? I just don,t think so. My fan seems to exhibit a 'growling' sound when running, not anything like my desk top computers fans so.... I asked the wife to start saving egg cartons for me to place behind the fan area ( My TV opening is enclosed into a built in wall area, all drywall) and to see how that works. They won't be visable from the front. Maybe it is echoing the sound. I loose the sound of my fan when I have the volume above 14. (52g786)

Not trying to be rude or insensitive, but can we get back on topic? If we start talking politics..... well we know where this thread will quickly go.

Not trying to be rude or insensitive, but can we get back on topic? If we start talking politics..... well we know where this thread will quickly go.

Suspensions have increased due to political posts, please stay on topic. Thanks.

on my 52z i only hear the fan on boot, it is on a glass topped stand, my directivo seems louder. with my volume up to listenable levels its not there, if i turn everything off but the tv i hear it but it is no worse than a pc fan.

darth... mine is the same... If i turn "EVERYTHING" off. Ceiling fan, tivos and put the wife and my son outside with the dogs and listen real carefully... I can hear the fan on the TV. Otherwise I don't even notice the sound. My TV is not in a cabinet and sits ontop of a pedestal so this maybe why?

everything as in everything like fans, fridge, tivo, air conditioning, all that stuff , i can hear it then but no other time when viewing

Alright, it's official.. there is a problem with the HDMI input and sound. I don't know if there is some setting that I've got that causes the sound to drop out every second, but it is. I've turned on the TV without anything hooked up to the HDMI and got a static signal with the sound dropping out ever second or so. I'm going to call the retailer tomorrow and ask them what I can do.. I had called JVC previously, but they claim they hadn't heard anything like I described to them before.

The TV is less than 30 days old, so, I'm kind of curious to find out what could have happened.

Alright, it's official.. there is a problem with the HDMI input and sound. I don't know if there is some setting that I've got that causes the sound to drop out every second, but it is. I've turned on the TV without anything hooked up to the HDMI and got a static signal with the sound dropping out ever second or so. I'm going to call the retailer tomorrow and ask them what I can do.. I had called JVC previously, but they claim they hadn't heard anything like I described to them before.

The TV is less than 30 days old, so, I'm kind of curious to find out what could have happened.

Rlbjr,

Try turning your BBE Sound Enhancement Off. What you are describing sounds like an automatic volume adjustment that the BBE may be attempting to apply to your audibly erratic static source.

[Edit] : after looking at manual, Maybe “Smart Sound” setting : “Decreases high sound levels, giving a regulated sound level.”

Manual Notes: "Smart Sound may become an unnatural effect, depending on the signal source."

Do you have the Sound drop out with other sources other than Static? If yes describe what your hdmi sources are.

I've got my 56g786 hooked up to a TWCNYC SA 8300HD via HDMI. I've noticed two problems, both of which I believe are with the SA8300HD, but I'm not sure. The first is that when I turn on the TV's speakers all that comes out is digital noise, aka static. However, DD5.1 comes out via the digital coaxial cable to my av receiver just fine. The tv speakers definitely work, it just seems that the problem is with HDMI. The second is that if I have multiple output formats (1080i,720p, etc) selected on the SA8300HD, intermittently, but frequently, it appears that the SA8300HD will lock on a certain output format even if I switch to say a 1080i to 720p channel and the screen will go blank. Th fix is either to cycle down the tv, or just unplug and plug the HDMI and presto blammo it works. Since the TV is new and I don't have any other HDMI sources to connect it to I want to try and rule out the tv is hosed. Anyone know if the SA8300HD is at fault?

Are you saying that you get DD5.1 *pass-thru*?! (i.e., it comes in the HDMI and out the TV's coax?)

NO I do not get D 5.1 pass through. The audio from the SA8300HD to the JVC via HDMI results in static- it doesn't work at all.

Hi everyone:

I have looked at various technical specifications for the JVC HD-ILA sets, but I cannot seem to find any mention of the pixel response time. Most other LCD based technologies seem to always give a pixel response time in milliseconds.

Is there a specific reason why JVC doesn't list this spec, such as maybe it doesn't apply to the HD-ILA technology? Or if it does apply, does anyone happen to know what the pixel response time is as stated by the manufacturer?

Thanks!!

Long time viewer (ok, maybe a few weeks), first time poster. Great info on this site, thanks to all.

About to make the plunge into the HD world, and have narrowed my choices down to:

Toshiba 62HMX94 (vs. wobulated HD4 chip in the 95's - my viewing pref after many BB research trips)

JVC 70G886

I'm leaning towards the JVC but have a few newbie questions;

1) (general) Is there a connection advantage to having a cable card vs STB via HDMI? Or no difference? Not sure what models my local Comcast Co. has yet.

2) Are there any JVC issues regarding ghosting or artifacts with fast moving video? I plan to enjoy action DVDs and HD cable sports/football. I ask because the only JVC I have been able to compare in person was a 52G786 at a BB across town (vs. the BB near me..) I LOVED the PQ but would like your opinion vs. my one experience over the BB vid feed to boot.

3) Am assuming the audio issues over HDMI are localized vs. indicative, but am watching these forums in case.

Many thanks for your help, sorry for the newbie questions that may be covered elsewere I may have missed.

-Ritner
Richmond VA

fan noise response:

my 70g886 is freestanding, and not enclosed in a cabinet. my fan noise is very loud compared to a pc fan. this weekend, i am going to try the suggestion of placing the unit on a blanket etc. i am then going to cut out the plastic grille on the exhaust that is molded into the bottom of the cabinet.

one of our local a/v stores stated that the fan on the g886 is quiter than earlier models.

has anyone disconnected the fan in the set, and placed a pc fan over the exhaust area? i do not know the specs in cubic feet per minute, but i know that this would be quiter.

els; I wouldn't cut that grill apart, nor would I use a thick blanket. Why 'butcher' the cabinet (even though it's underneath) and the blanket night block/restrict air flow.
Better yet is some form of FLAT sound absorbing material. Also try something behind the set hanging on the wall if possible (tape it there if you have to).

And last don't disconnect anything! Besides, it might cause the unit not to turn on since I believe it needs the fan to be in the circuit.

I'm leaning towards the JVC but have a few newbie questions;

1) (general) Is there a connection advantage to having a cable card vs STB via HDMI? Or no difference? Not sure what models my local Comcast Co. has yet.

The cable card while cool, and possibly a better picture does not have the on screen tv guide and you can not order PPV. We love the guide too much to give it up.


2) Are there any JVC issues regarding ghosting or artifacts with fast moving video? I plan to enjoy action DVDs and HD cable sports/football. I ask because the only JVC I have been able to compare in person was a 52G786 at a BB across town (vs. the BB near me..) I LOVED the PQ but would like your opinion vs. my one experience over the BB vid feed to boot.


No. Nope. None. Zero. Not from the JVC anyway. You'll see some compression on HD videos sometimes, varying on channel, etc. Otherwise, just as clean as any other set. An improperly calibrated JVC however, may display Silk Screen Effect on some fast action involving water reflection, baseball fields, etc. But, once calibrated with AVIA, these will not be visible.


3) Am assuming the audio issues over HDMI are localized vs. indicative, but am watching these forums in case.


I don't use HDMI so I can't comment.

morseth:

Somewhere in these forums the pixel response was discussed- the D-ILA/LCoS approach yields faster response times, but I don't recall why.

I have narrowed down my purchase to either the 52", 56" or 61" JVC (61z786 or 56g786 or 52g786), and my biggest concern is how watchable (or how bad) the standard-def picture will be at a 12 to 16 foot distance. I know that the HD video will be excellent at both distances, but I'm concerned about SD programs.

Can any owners of the new 52", 56" or 61" JVC TVs please provide some insight and guidance on how your TVs look with SD programming? Please indicate what size TV you have and what viewing distance you watch from.

I figure I'll be watching SD programming for many years to come, and I don't want to watch a horrible picture. My MIL has a 61" RCA DLP on the same cable system, and the picture ranges from OK to bad, depending on the channel. Text is not very crisp, and video is not very sharp.

Rlbjr,

Try turning your BBE Sound Enhancement Off. What you are describing sounds like an automatic volume adjustment that the BBE may be attempting to apply to your audibly erratic static source.

[Edit] : after looking at manual, Maybe “Smart Sound” setting : “Decreases high sound levels, giving a regulated sound level.”

Manual Notes: "Smart Sound may become an unnatural effect, depending on the signal source."

Do you have the Sound drop out with other sources other than Static? If yes describe what your hdmi sources are.

I tried all of these settings, to no avail. I called JVC and they said that there was no setting on the TV that could generate that sort of behavior. I can hear it when I have it hooked up to a DVD player (hd950). I also get a slight static sound that drops as well when I don't hook any components up to the TV. I'm 99.9% sure that their is a defect on the audio board for the HDMI. No other inputs have exibited this problem.

deanbrew- 52" from 10-11 feet, SD is more then adequate.

Can any owners of the new 52", 56" or 61" JVC TVs please provide some insight and guidance on how your TVs look with SD programming? Please indicate what size TV you have and what viewing distance you watch from.

I figure I'll be watching SD programming for many years to come, and I don't want to watch a horrible picture. My MIL has a 61" RCA DLP on the same cable system, and the picture ranges from OK to bad, depending on the channel. Text is not very crisp, and video is not very sharp.

i have a 52 and sit 9 feet away will be ten this weekend, SD is very good once the set is dialed in with avia or dve but dvd is so much better you will watch all of your old stuff over again :D

I can confirm it is a HDMI issue. Or a DVI to HDMI issue.I spoke with JVC(one of the most frustrating calls ever made to tech company). They have no idea what the problem is and finally they suggested I just hook up to an external system. I can"t find my speakers in all the boxes from moving! I'm still finding SD pretty poor from 10' on a 56" set. I found it better using component as opposed to hdmi.
Zaxdad

I have narrowed down my purchase to either the 52", 56" or 61" JVC (61z786 or 56g786 or 52g786), and my biggest concern is how watchable (or how bad) the standard-def picture will be at a 12 to 16 foot distance. I know that the HD video will be excellent at both distances, but I'm concerned about SD programs.

Can any owners of the new 52", 56" or 61" JVC TVs please provide some insight and guidance on how your TVs look with SD programming? Please indicate what size TV you have and what viewing distance you watch from.

I figure I'll be watching SD programming for many years to come, and I don't want to watch a horrible picture. My MIL has a 61" RCA DLP on the same cable system, and the picture ranges from OK to bad, depending on the channel. Text is not very crisp, and video is not very sharp.
I used to own the 52", now I own the 56". I am nuts and sit 8' from my 56" :D , and yes SD is marginal from that distance. However, when I step back a few feet it looks awesome. I just sit close because I spend more time gaming, watching DVDs, and some HD than watching SD. With every other source I am at a great distance for getting immersed in the experience. SD is good on this set compared to many of the other big screen tv technologies. (doubt it's the best, but it's gotta be above average for sure.)

So I am not the only one with audio problems??

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=575169

I took back 2 786 JVC TV's to my local retailer and they just put these sets out for sale as discounted open box buys. I told the manager he should not sell these sets without first getting the unit fixxed. His reply was "no one else seams to be having the same problem"

JVC owners need to check all audio inputs, in particular HDMI with analog audio for audio drops.

Somebody should start a poll to see how many work and dont work.

New News re: New JVC D-ILAs

The new 1080p sets are being called the "DesignerPro" series that will include a new 3 Step Optical Iris system that improves black levels and gradation in dark scenes **

http://www.jvc.com/press/index.jsp?item=470&pageID=1

Guess they had to let it out before CEDIA, I wonder if they will surprise us with the 1080p inputs too??

I tried all of these settings, to no avail. I called JVC and they said that there was no setting on the TV that could generate that sort of behavior. I can hear it when I have it hooked up to a DVD player (hd950). I also get a slight static sound that drops as well when I don't hook any components up to the TV. I'm 99.9% sure that their is a defect on the audio board for the HDMI. No other inputs have exibited this problem.

Definitely would point to a defect of some sort then. There are many posts regarding JVC as being responsive to issues, they should send someone out to replace your soundboard. I wouldn’t leave a message or e-mail tech support as others have claimed better handling by holding to speak to a technician.

that will include a new 3 Step Optical Iris system that improves black levels and gradation in dark scenesDoes that mean the ND mod is obsolete? :eek:

Does that mean the ND mod is obsolete? :eek:

Hard to tell by the initial description of the Iris. The use of “3 Stage” would insinuate to me either of 3 settings and not dynamic. This however might be all that is really needed. (Think) I would prefer it as a fixed setting. I would also think that an Iris would be located before the LCOS panels so I would feel more comfortable with the results being less degrading as compared to the placement (after the Panels) of the filter in the newer ND Mod.

This means JVC’s first stab at an Iris too so I hope they get it right the first time.

Hope we can get our hands on a manual for the newer series, although the absence of it being available shortly after CEDIA would lead me to believe there are more features to come.

Hope we can get our hands on a manual for the newer series,I know you were referring to the owners manual, but I still can't get the service manual for the 'G' series and that has been out for over 2 months.

deanbrew:

I have the 61Z786 and sit 12' away, eye level just above the bottom of the screen (optimally, eye level should be screen center, but we lose very little brightness this way and my wife loves the stand).

One of the things I like best about this unit is that SD seems better on it than other microdisplays. I tweaked a bit with DVE, but a cat stepped on my UPS power button, so I guess I'll have to re-tweak and this time, write down the settings. As always, GIGO. Good SD sources look quite good. Poor ones certainly don't look as good. And a smaller screen would "hide" some of the failings of poor signals. But I like my 61"- it's like a 50" 4:3 set with SD.

An example of a poor signal seems to be Spike. We've DVR'd Deep Space 9 from them, and I'd say their signal must be over compressed. We can sometimes see "splotches" on walls, especially in dim scenes. Tweaking can reduce this- but to eliminate it I'd have to lessen the PQ in other ways. I rarely see this on other channels.

DVD PQ is fantastic!

Hope this helps.

Hey guys, I just bought a Z786 and am wondering what all comes in the box (cables and such) because I want to have everything ready when it gets here so I don't get stuck paying $50 a cable. Does it have an HDMI cable in the box or an optical cable? Thanks

Welcome to the forums. I can't imagine ANY set having a HDMI/DVI cable included. Maybe a S-video cable if you are lucky, if that.
Don't pay much more than $25 for a HDMI/DVI cable.

Welcome to the forums...........

morseth:

Somewhere in these forums the pixel response was discussed- the D-ILA/LCoS approach yields faster response times, but I don't recall why.

Thanks Navychop, I'll keep searching to see if I can track down some hard numbers on pixel response times.

I just read through this entire post (whew!).

Bought the 52g886 today and having it delivered on Monday. this is an upgrade from my introductory HDTV which is a 46" Toshiba CRT. I have had it with the convergence issues and burn in fears and people telling me to "get used" to the improved and superior detail of a dim pic. By the way, about a zilliojn pages back, someone was touting the cost benefit of CRT. Here's my experience in the past 18 months:

Toshiba 46h83 purchased 03/04 1200 (good price back then)
ISF calibration (04/04) 500
ISF touch up (04/05) 250
Self convergences countless
Total spent in 18 months $1,950


It's not a bad little set and I removed the glare screen too, I was just never happy with the sharpness.

I'm looking forward to a crisp and bright PQ (sunglasses at the ready).

Great thread. I'll post my findings.

On...all the time?

I got my new harmony remote (880) and it is "activity" based (which is a fancy word for "macros").

I click the "Watch TV" button and it will turn on all the devices, set the inputs, tell the DVD player to play, etc..

Problem is...the JVC takes ... what? 30 seconds to actually turn on. Kinda crazy putting in a 30 second delay before telling the TV which input to go to.

So...does anybody just leave the TV on all the time? It appears it goes into a "sleep" mode...does that sound right?

Have any of you that just bought the 'G' series looked at the Mits LCD Microdisplay that came out 2 months ago?
Was that a consideration or not?

Have any of you that just bought the 'G' series looked at the Mits LCD Microdisplay that came out 2 months ago?
Was that a consideration or not?
I was tempted by it, but didn't go with it for 3 reasons.

#1 I thought the set looked too dark.

#2 Screen door effect.

#3 I've had an LCD RPTV before, and I noticed black lines running down the screen every inch or so, most noticably in blue scenes. (Blue sky mostly) I then noticed it on Hitachi and Sony LCD RPTVs when walking around Circuit City. I do not like this at all. I dunno if the newer LCDs do this yet, but I can't see spending 2-3K for something that doesn't please me eye.

Remember, I had a JVC DILA for most of the summer, then traded it on the new model JVC "G" series, so I was used to not seeing screen door effect. The black levels are a bit better on the "G" series, others have noticed this as well. (no they are not up to DLP standards, but they are "livable" to most people now)

deanbrew:

I have the 61Z786 and sit 12' away, eye level just above the bottom of the screen (optimally, eye level should be screen center, but we lose very little brightness this way and my wife loves the stand).

One of the things I like best about this unit is that SD seems better on it than other microdisplays. I tweaked a bit with DVE, but a cat stepped on my UPS power button, so I guess I'll have to re-tweak and this time, write down the settings. As always, GIGO. Good SD sources look quite good. Poor ones certainly don't look as good. And a smaller screen would "hide" some of the failings of poor signals. But I like my 61"- it's like a 50" 4:3 set with SD.

An example of a poor signal seems to be Spike. We've DVR'd Deep Space 9 from them, and I'd say their signal must be over compressed. We can sometimes see "splotches" on walls, especially in dim scenes. Tweaking can reduce this- but to eliminate it I'd have to lessen the PQ in other ways. I rarely see this on other channels.

DVD PQ is fantastic!

Hope this helps. I think my DILA blows away the SD quality of the Panny LCD RPTV that I had in early June.

I also like how you think of 4:3 sources like I do. I measured my 4:3 material on my 56" JVC to be about 45". With these big TVs I don't mind the bars on the side or top anymore, heh even when watching SD with built in top and bottom black bars, plus the bars on the side, it still comes in at about 42" 16:9!! :D Before June, the only TV I used for about 8 years was a 32" 4:3 RCA. I always remind myself of that before complaining about having vertical or horizontal bars on my material (even with horizontal black bars, my image is about 2" higher than my 32" 4:3 TV could produce at full screen, or 8" more if I view full screen material on my 56" WS) I like wide screen, but image height to me is what impresses you with the size of the image.

#1 I thought the set looked too dark. Compared to the JVC absolutely. Compared to others, about the same.#2 Screen door effect. SDE or SSE When I looked for both, the SDE disappeared after 5 or 6 feet away. BUT, the SAE effect was noticeable. That's the #1 issue with this set that I don't know if I could live with. It's not a deal killer though, just a issue.I noticed black lines running down the screen every inch or so, most noticably in blue scenes. Never heard that before and have NO idea what it could be. I have never saw anything as you described.

Thanks for the comments.

i have a service manual for my set but it has no diagrams just text and reg settings, explanations on how to do things, etc. i cant tell where the focus knob is or how to get to it. i dont think my set needs it but thought it would be worthy knowledge. it seems to me that to do it you go in from the front as going in through the back would require the cables to disconnect thus no picture, are the speaker panels removable? is that the access point? anybody got diagrams or schematics?

On...all the time?

I got my new harmony remote (880) and it is "activity" based (which is a fancy word for "macros").

I click the "Watch TV" button and it will turn on all the devices, set the inputs, tell the DVD player to play, etc..

Problem is...the JVC takes ... what? 30 seconds to actually turn on. Kinda crazy putting in a 30 second delay before telling the TV which input to go to.

So...does anybody just leave the TV on all the time? It appears it goes into a "sleep" mode...does that sound right?


I have the 61" HD-ILA 61Z786 with the harmony 880. My "Watch TV" delay is set to 15 seconds before sending input commands and it is working.

I think my DILA blows away the SD quality of the Panny LCD RPTV that I had in early June.

I also like how you think of 4:3 sources like I do. I measured my 4:3 material on my 56" JVC to be about 45". With these big TVs I don't mind the bars on the side or top anymore, heh even when watching SD with built in top and bottom black bars, plus the bars on the side, it still comes in at about 42" 16:9!! :D Before June, the only TV I used for about 8 years was a 32" 4:3 RCA. I always remind myself of that before complaining about having vertical or horizontal bars on my material (even with horizontal black bars, my image is about 2" higher than my 32" 4:3 TV could produce at full screen, or 8" more if I view full screen material on my 56" WS) I like wide screen, but image height to me is what impresses you with the size of the image.

I too have been watching alot of 4:3 sources with the "gray bars" on the sides. I use to remember alot of arguments about the screen burn in issue of rear projection tv's and I forgot what was decided on these dila models. Do they suffer the same burn in issue?

dk, no burn in

rlbjr - I have had the same problem (HD61Z786) and have posted it more than once. I tried finding the post but could not. I did call JVC and they told me it had to be a receiver issue (DISHnet 811). I mentined it to DISHnet and I could see that it was headed nowhere. I have resigned to the fact that It will not be resolved. When I'm digital, I use my AV (5.1) receiver so this stutter is not really an issue. If you do hear anything, I will appreciate a message. Good Luck !

darthrsg; you have a SERVICE manual for a 'G' series set? Where did you get it?
As far as focus, the 'Z' series manual shows a focus knob below the large lens on a vertical surface towards the top and a focus lock below that.

I wouldn't touch it.

For those of you that have a HTPC hooked up to this, using a DVI to HDMI cable, do you see the boot screen (before the drivers load) on the set?

sorry...hit wrong button.

darthrsg; you have a SERVICE manual for a 'G' series set? Where did you get it?
As far as focus, the 'Z' series manual shows a focus knob below the large lens on a vertical surface towards the top and a focus lock below that.

I wouldn't touch it.

For those of you that have a HTPC hooked up to this, using a DVI to HDMI cable, do you see the boot screen (before the drivers load) on the set?
vid,
not the g but a z, the thing is a print off the tech had when he replaced my engine, it has all the registers and explanations but no diagrams, i would really like to get my hands on one with pics, as for the manual focus i dont think my set needs it it just seemed logical to want to know how to do it, others have done it with a pic improvement according to other forums, would you use a test pattern to adjust or just eyeball it?

I am curious about the focus as well. I have the 61Z786 and have seen the service manual. I could not access the focus knob while the the back was off and the set was on. The service manual tells you to use the menu as reference while adjusting focus. That doesn't make a lick of sense to me. It appears to me that you have to slide the chassis out to get to the focus? I must be missing the secret access door or something. :)

Cheers

I have the jvc hd-52z575

After 3 months of owning it I had a greenish color on the left of the screen so I called jvc and they responded and fixed it in 2 weeks with a whole new chase.

5 months later the bulb blew out ( coulda been my fault) and in 2 days they sent me a new one for free. I do not have an extended warranty.

Last week I was thinking of getting a new bulb for the arrival of xbox 360 since the bulb they sent was on its 7th month of use and when i called they sent me a new one in 2 days for free. I also complained that a certain problem was never fixed and they gave me an option to buy any new tv from them for a flat 1000.

They have been extremly responsive, i love JVC

KidRed would have a better handle on this since is is more familar with the set. I can only comment what is or isn't in the 'Z' series manual since I don't have the set (yet).

I have the jvc hd-52z575

After 3 months of owning it I had a greenish color on the left of the screen so I called jvc and they responded and fixed it in 2 weeks with a whole new chase.

5 months later the bulb blew out ( coulda been my fault) and in 2 days they sent me a new one for free. I do not have an extended warranty.

Last week I was thinking of getting a new bulb for the arrival of xbox 360 since the bulb they sent was on its 7th month of use and when i called they sent me a new one in 2 days for free. I also complained that a certain problem was never fixed and they gave me an option to buy any new tv from them for a flat 1000.

They have been extremly responsive, i love JVC

It's good to hear that JVC is taking care of customers.

Thanks for posting your experiences.

Let us know if they will let you trade up to the 1080p set for the $1k

I am curious about the focus as well. I have the 61Z786 and have seen the service manual. I could not access the focus knob while the the back was off and the set was on. The service manual tells you to use the menu as reference while adjusting focus. That doesn't make a lick of sense to me. It appears to me that you have to slide the chassis out to get to the focus? I must be missing the secret access door or something. :)

Cheers
my take on it is to go through the front, behind the blue led is approx where the lens is, makes sense to access a focus lever there, the speaker grills come off easy they have one screw, the middle panel comes off with 4 screws, it is still attached by a cable, behind that panel is several other screws i guess which hold the final panel in place, behind that should be the adjustment, i got the .pdf service manual from another forum and am just about to look at it. will post later.

S0xx=register followed by signal type, then by setting to adjust, then by range of adjustment, then by factory default(mine werent set to this out of box)

S002(register),NTSC(sig type),BL(black level),0~15(range of adjustment), 1(out of box)
S001 PREPARE 0~31 0
S002 NTSC BL 0~15 1
S003 NTSC CNT 0~255 44
S004 NT CR OF 0~15 4
S005 NT CB OF 0~15 4
S006 525i BL 0~15 1
S007 525i CNT 0~255 44
S008 5i CB OF 0~15 0
S009 5i CR OF 0~15 0
S010 5i CR GN 0~15 4
S011 5i CB GN 0~15 4
S012 HD BL 0~63 0
S013 HD CB OF 0~63 0
S014 HD CR OF 0~63 0
S015 RT CONT 0~15 7
S016 RT CB OF 0~15 2
S017 RT CR OF 0~15 5
S018 RT CL GA 0~15 4
S019 PC CL MB 0~7 0
S020 PC CL LB 0~255 0
S021 PC CL MR 0~3 0
S022 PC CL LR 0~255 0
S023 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S024 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S025 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S026 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S027 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S028 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S029 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S030 R DRIVE 0~255 0
S031 G DRIVE 0~255 0
S032 B DRIVE 0~255 0
S033 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S034 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S035 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S036 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S037 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S038 (NO DISPLAY) 0~255 0
S039 ILA COM 0~255 0

Thanks for all the great info! I want to get my 786 calibrated and other than ISF certification what should i be looking for in a tech. Searching the ISF website, there are about 3-4 guys in my area that are certified. What criteria should I be looking at to choose one of these techs. The type of equipment that they use for the calibration? Is there a standard procedure that I should be asking them if they perform? I have no idea what questions to ask these people. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again!

Just got my 52g886 delivered. went through the setup and it looked great for 5 minutes, then red bars showed up on the screen, vertical and about 1 inch apart like pinstripes.

any ideas?

thanks.

First impressions???

I've had the set for half an hour and just got off the phone. Sears will be doing a swp out Sunday. Is this a sign of things to come?

By the way-JVC service center 800 number is stuck on an endless loop. Can't get through.

BLAH!

Do the red stripes show up on all channels and all inputs???

my take on it is to go through the front, behind the blue led is approx where the lens is, makes sense to access a focus lever there, the speaker grills come off easy they have one screw, the middle panel comes off with 4 screws, it is still attached by a cable, behind that panel is several other screws i guess which hold the final panel in place, behind that should be the adjustment, i got the .pdf service manual from another forum and am just about to look at it. will post later.

Thanks! I have the same pdf, but not don't know how I missed that. I removed the panels, took all of 2 minutes. I found the factory focus to be about spot on. If you can clearly see the "mesh/screen" when VERY close to the screen, I would think you are about as focused as its gonna get.

Cheers

Kid Red, When I had a SA 3250 box the side bars were gray, but when I switched to the Pace 550 box the bars are black. So would that be a setop box issue??

you can change the colour of the side bars on the 3250 from the standard light gray, to medium, to dark gray. the dark gray is almost black, that's what i have it set to.

Just got a bad set.

Yeah, the red stripes are on dvi/hdmi all channels and component DVD. they don't change.

I just watched 15 minutes befor they came on. Must have something to do with the temperature.

Bruce, if you're talking to me, it sure looks that way.

Chaz

Hi, this is my first post here. Wish I would have found this thread before I got my TV! I tried to post more but it's telling me I'm trying to use IMG or URLs, even though I'm not???

I have a 61HDZ886 in for service right now at a local ASC here in Cincinnati, for three issues:

1) Optical audio output doesn't output anything. I run HDMI in from my cable box, but get no signal from the optical out into my receiver. Tried channing from PCM to Dolby and back on the TV menu and no change. Checked cables and receiver, and they're fine, so it's the TV.

2) HDMI signal randomly drops. I see on JVC's website that this is a known issue. Sometimes when I change cable channels, the JVC will get confused about the quick signal loss/change and will pause then show "No Program." I have to unplug the HDMI from the back of the JVC, replug, and the picture/sound comes right back. So it doesn't appear to be the cable box.

3) Center channel audio input is VERY low in volume. I have to turn it up to 50 (max) to get any sound from the speakers, and even then, it's WAY lower than the rest of my receiver's speakers. Not usable.

SUGGESTIONS?

P.S. I am thrilled with the PQ. HDTV is amazing in 720p. Xbox is awesome too. Some DVDs are good, but was expecting a little more from my Sony progressive scan... are HDMI DVD players really looking better even though the native format is the same?

Thanks for listening and any help!
Solomon

Here's the rest of my post. It didn't like my reference to where I bought the TV so I glossed it.

The bummer is the horrible service I'm getting from the ASC and JVC. It took the ASC a week to even GET to my set (they took the internals to their shop when they came to check it in my house, then did nothing with it for 7 days). Then a few days later and he was "looking at it." Then the next day, "at least a week, he's never seen this before."

During this happening I was calling JVC and telling them how this is unacceptable on a new set (happened about 2 weeks after I received it from buydig, who only has a 10 day return period). JVC agrees (two different people), that it should only take 1 or 2 days to fix, not a week. Promise to "expedite" my issue, have one of their techs help fix the set if the ASC can't figure it out, and also promises to have corporate call me. They haven't yet, on two separate promises from JVC CS over the last 3-4 days.

Does anyone know if these should be simple fixes? Or what I can do to speed things up? The frustrating part is that the TV WORKED, it just had some issues. Now I have a 61" empty screen in my room, and can't watch my HDTV! And they were sitting on their hands for a week, and now say they've never "seen this!" And JVC promises to help, and apparently hasn't done a thing (ASC says they haven't heard from JVC about my issue).

One poster summed it up nicely, when they work, they're great.

jsk333, did jvc send those people to get the set? it is jvc policy to do in house on sets that size. i have 2 repair shops in my area but none of them can touch my set cause of jvc certs, they sent a guy from 3 hours away to my house. the service i got was excellent. sounds to me like a non jvc service issue and a problem with the locals.

SUGGESTIONS?



Thanks for listening and any help!
Solomon

Welcome, sorry for your unfortunate circumstances. From my experience, going directly thru JVC and not a local company worked beyond my satisfaction. Call them or email them and only deal with JVC. They will arrange all local tech visits and repair and keep up with the progress.

SUGGESTIONS?



Thanks for listening and any help!
Solomon

Welcome, sorry for your unfortunate circumstances. From my experience, going directly thru JVC and not a local company worked beyond my satisfaction. Call them or email them and only deal with JVC. They will arrange all local tech visits and repair and keep up with the progress. Hopefully you will get this issue resolved promptly.

JSK333 The fixes are actually rather simple. Both problems are actually software problems with, I am guesing, a Scientific Atlanta Cable box with Passport software. If so switch the output on the cable box to 720p only. As for the Audio, it will not come over HDMi with the present passport software. Both are known issues and should be fixed in the future.
Here's the rest of my post. It didn't like my reference to where I bought the TV so I glossed it.

The bummer is the horrible service I'm getting from the ASC and JVC. It took the ASC a week to even GET to my set (they took the internals to their shop when they came to check it in my house, then did nothing with it for 7 days). Then a few days later and he was "looking at it." Then the next day, "at least a week, he's never seen this before."

During this happening I was calling JVC and telling them how this is unacceptable on a new set (happened about 2 weeks after I received it from buydig, who only has a 10 day return period). JVC agrees (two different people), that it should only take 1 or 2 days to fix, not a week. Promise to "expedite" my issue, have one of their techs help fix the set if the ASC can't figure it out, and also promises to have corporate call me. They haven't yet, on two separate promises from JVC CS over the last 3-4 days.

Does anyone know if these should be simple fixes? Or what I can do to speed things up? The frustrating part is that the TV WORKED, it just had some issues. Now I have a 61" empty screen in my room, and can't watch my HDTV! And they were sitting on their hands for a week, and now say they've never "seen this!" And JVC promises to help, and apparently hasn't done a thing (ASC says they haven't heard from JVC about my issue).

Thanks for the info, guys!

Yes, I have a Scientific Atlanta box, it's an HD DVR from Time Warner. I know from calling TW that there is also a known issue where you can't use the HDMI and digital audio outs at the same time on the box. Either the HDMI signal drops or the digital audio will only output stereo, and not Dolby/DTS. But I don't know if you understood, that I get audio just fine on the TV from HDMI out from my cable box. That works great. I just can't get the audio back out through the optical out to my receiver.

I did call JVC first, and told them the problems I was having, and they gave me the # of this local ASC. So as far as I knew, this was my only option. They didn't offer to have anyone from JVC come. And the ASC did come to my house and look at it and said they couldn't fix it here, so they took the internals out and back to their shop.

So does the optical out work with anything? If not, what is the point? That seems odd that a feature wouldn't work at all and they haven't fixed it yet.

Do you think I should just arrange to have the TV brought back "unfixed" since it is a software issue?

Oh, and what about the center channel input issue? Anyone else use it?

Is 1080p going to be that noticable on a 52" screen from 8-10'?

JSk333, yes there are different version of the software across the country. My STB can output video over HDMI to the TV. However, audio comes out as static. This is a known problem. Audio comes out of the STB via digital coaz no problem while video comes out of the HDMI so I don't have a problem. However, what you are talking about is audio passthrough. No one has gotten this to work so it is not a problem unique to you. I believe it is an issue regarding the HMDI version and possibly the STB software. It may or may not be resolved in the future. The optical does work with OTA reception of ATSC.

having seen the mits 52"1080p side by side with 720p from a different manufacturer I would have to say no.
Is 1080p going to be that noticable on a 52" screen from 8-10'?

Talked to JVC again. The closest JVC service center to me is in IL, and I'm in Cincinnati, OH. So they say they won't be involved, it has to be through a local ASC. And they said sometimes the ASC fixes in-home, and if they can't, it goes to their shop.

Talked to the ASC again... they didn't have schematics for it, finally got them, and didn't have the audio test equipment to test it, which won't be in until Thursday.

So I am having them return it unfixed tomorrow, and then I can deal with JVC later. At least the one fix mentioned on here for the HDMI dropping should work. Donno about the optical out. And I'll be using audio speakers for my center channel so that doesn't matter.

Hopefully I can get JVC to help me later. Getting my State Attorney General involved might help things along. :)

BAH! Answered my own question. The menu item "Digital-In Audio" handles the selection of audio sources for the HDMI input.

Does anyone know if the analog audio inputs for the HDMI connector shut off when audio is present over HDMI?

A cursory look at the manual didn't turn anything up and I don't remember anything in the menus.

The reason I ask is that I currently use the HDMI connector with my Motorola DCT6412 cable box, a DVI/HDMI adaptor, and audio cables. I want to add an upconverting DVD player and a 2-1 HDMI switch.

Just letting any current/future owners of these JVC models know that there is no issue at all with these TVs and video game lag, as long as you use the component video cables and the game/system you are using can output in progressive scan. I own the 56G786 and I tried out MVP Baseball 2005 (which is a very timing intensive game for pitching and hitting) for the 1st time on the PS2 today using the component cables and enabling progressive scan at startup by holding in "triangle" and "x". The gameplay executed flawlessly and I didn't notice any lag whatsoever. The picture looked great, too. I then tried the game out both using just the regular composite a/v cables, and then with component cables but not enabling progressive scan. In both cases, there was a definite lag that was most noticeable during pitching and greatly effected timing and overall gameplay. So if you are considering this TV and intend to use it for video game play, it is definitely a great performer as long as you have the component cables and a game/system capable of progressive scan.

hello guys, i have small quick questions to ask.

I have the 61z886 model and service manual. i checked on the ISF site to see if there's any approved isf calibration stores in my area (Montreal). there was about 6, and only 1 is available, he said he'd to it for 250$(CDN currency) (i'm guessing that's a very good price). i'm only hesitating for 2 reasons.

A) he said he never did it on a JVC H-DILA technology tv, and that all dlp/lcos's tv are the same and so it shouldnt' be a problem, i'm wondering what you guys think about it?

B) since i have the service manual, can't i do the calibration myself? or is there some hardware used to calibrate it aside from the service menu?

also there's a problem I read about w/ LCOS (CA, chromatic aberration...i think that's what it's called) is that due to bad convergence and can it be fixed w/ the service menu? cause i have a JVC HD-61Z886 and the service manual for it, and i seem to have a case for it, on the right side of my screen for about 3 pixel width from top to bottom it's green it's mostly noticable on my web browser cause the scrolll bar is light grey.

question, whats all the fuss over the hdcp stuff? some say sets with component only input wont play new hd-dvd or blu-ray, some say you will have to have a hdmi hdcp tv, some one break it down. my jvc has hdmi in but i was waiting until next year to try the hd/dvd or blu-ray out let the dust settle a bit, what is the deal? there are so many posts about it and its hard to find a true side to it. seems to me that until the dang players come out no one will know, but i think it is dumb of studios to cut off any of their fanbase considering how bad they are doing.

Well, i'm about to take the HDTV plunge and go for a 61Z786 from dbuys or other (have not decided which site yet.)

A few more nebie questions if I may;

1) Is getting my set ISF'd really that much of an advantage over do-it-yourself with something like AVIA?
2) Is it advisable to get an extended warrently form which ever retailer I use? With what I see on these boards regarding JVC's excellent service (1 year?), would an extended be a waste?

Thanks in advance for all's help,
-Ritner
Richmond VA

Well, i'm about to take the HDTV plunge and go for a 61Z786 from dbuys or other (have not decided which site yet.)

A few more nebie questions if I may;

1) Is getting my set ISF'd really that much of an advantage over do-it-yourself with something like AVIA?
2) Is it advisable to get an extended warrently form which ever retailer I use? With what I see on these boards regarding JVC's excellent service (1 year?), would an extended be a waste?

Thanks in advance for all's help,
-Ritner
Richmond VA
isf cal will get grayscale dead on, color setup will improve over avia, there are other issues that can be resolved via isf. i plan on getting mine done after the first of the year.

i got a 3 year warranty thrown in on my set but if i had known of jvc service before hand i might of passed on the store warranty, it may come in handy in a year though, i will most likely get extended from jvc though

Man, I was very interested in this set but its seems like JVC's D-ILAs are plagued with problems once again.

Can someone post something positive to get my hopes up again?

Thanks. :)

Hi all,
I've read your posts and found them to be very helpful. I saw the 52G, the 61G and the 70G. Wow, that 70 is HUGE! The store had the 52 in a slightly less lit area and the picture really popped. The 70 had a flourescent light right above it so the picture obviously suffered. I saw the 70 at BuyDig for $3400 which is a stretch, but I think I can get the boss to ok it (lol).

My question to you is since the 52 JVC and 70 JVC have the same technology, should I be able to make the 70 look pretty close the picture I saw on the 52? Thanks very much for your help, I really appreciate it.
Ken

its seems like JVC's D-ILAs are plagued with problems once again. Sounds as the headlines from a tabloid. A little exaggerated isn't it?the horrible service I'm getting from the ASC and JVC. It took the ASC a week to even GET to my set (they took the internals to their shop when they came to check it in my house, then did nothing with it for 7 days). All of that seems to center around this 'ASDC". What/who is/are ASC for starters?

Did you check out your local service providers first? Is this a extended warranty deal? I wouldn't included JVC into this completely since it is the 'locals' that don't seem to know what they are doing.

As far as HDMI, that, USB and mostly IEEE-1394 all have problems. Sorry your having problems, but I would think about looking for another local authorized service center with experience. Is getting my set ISF'd really that much of an advantage over do-it-yourself with something like AVIA? If you don't mind spending $400 more on a $2200 set. :rolleyes:

It sounds like this thread has turned into how good JVC's "service" is but their TVs are a nightmare.

Has anyone on here NOT had a problem with these sets? The reason I ask is because I was pretty much stunned by how good I thought this set looked at my local Sears, plasma-like, really. I haven't come across another thread on this entire forum that has as many nightmare stories.

Defective parts, service calls, troubleshooting galore. What gives?

It sounds like this thread has turned into how good JVC's "service" is but their TVs are a nightmare.

Has anyone on here NOT had a problem with these sets? The reason I ask is because I was pretty much stunned by how good I thought this set looked at my local Sears, plasma-like, really. I haven't come across another thread on this entire forum that has as many nightmare stories.

Defective parts, service calls, troubleshooting galore. What gives?

Easy Yoda. Fear leads to anger, anger leads to ... oh, never mind. Boards always seem to be full of people posting their problems. For people who have no problems, there's not much too say. My 56" JVC has been great since I got it about a month ago - zero problems - great set.

Mine has been great too. The only issue was a slight geometry issue from shipping. Caused the screen to tilt slightly. I fixed this with an easy twist to the tv. All other problems were issues with the STB, not the TV. I've noticed that the tv doesn't do dark scenes very well. However, I've also noticed that the image is really dependent on the source. HDTV over cable varies greatly from channel to channel, show to show, scene to scene. I look forward to seeing what this set does with Blu-ray or HD-DVD. I'e also noticed a lot of the digital noise is source dependent too.

Gulley's experience mirrors mine exactly except I haven't twisted the tv yet.

It sounds like this thread has turned into how good JVC's "service" is but their TVs are a nightmare.

Has anyone on here NOT had a problem with these sets? The reason I ask is because I was pretty much stunned by how good I thought this set looked at my local Sears, plasma-like, really. I haven't come across another thread on this entire forum that has as many nightmare stories.

Defective parts, service calls, troubleshooting galore. What gives?

I have had a 70G for several months. No problems. Love it.

JVC's D-ILAs are plagued with problems once again.

Thanks. :)


there is a plague? look at the sony, sammy, panny threads, it is a friggin outbreak! :eek:

It sounds like this thread has turned into how good JVC's "service" is but their TVs are a nightmare.

Has anyone on here NOT had a problem with these sets? The reason I ask is because I was pretty much stunned by how good I thought this set looked at my local Sears, plasma-like, really. I haven't come across another thread on this entire forum that has as many nightmare stories.

Defective parts, service calls, troubleshooting galore. What gives?
the issue i had with my set was totally liveable no one saw it but me and my wife because i showed it to her. it was under warranty for fix cost me nothing. my co worker is getting a g this week from bb.

ritner:

Before getting any aftermarket extended warranty, call your local service shops and ask if they honor that warranty. You may be unpleasantly surprised.


I've had my 61Z786 since May. Very happy, no real problems.

I've been looking at the 61Z786 for some time, and I finally got a chance to tweak the picture today at a nearby retailer. After some fiddling, I was really quite impressed (to me it looked just about as good as the Mits 1080 DLP right next to it), and have basically made up my mind to purchase a JVC set (as I am rainbow senstive and see too much screen door on the Mits LCD's). The only issue is whether I wait for the 1080p models.

Anyway, the salesperson caught me tweaking and said they have two floor models and that they would give me a good price on one of them. After factoring in the warranty cost, and considering the 18 months no-interest deal, they have available now, it is really a pretty decent deal. I have two questions. First, should I shy away from buying a floor model? Normally, I would not consider this with an RPTV (especially in the past with CRT burn-in issues), but since I am going to get a 5-year warranty anyway, and the new digital technology doesn't really have burn-in issues, I'm wondering if the 5-year warranty protection would bascially protect me from any real problems? Second, since I can actually see and play with the unit I would get, what types of things should I look for or check before selecting the one I want (e.g., is there a way to check the convergence, etc.?

Thanks in advance for any help.

smitty, no burn in with jvc, my issue with floor model rptv would be the hours on the bulb, as for warranty make sure locals are jvc certified. the 5 year is good if it covers bulbs. my dealing with jvc have me not thinking anything of the 3 year i got thrown in, i will go with extended jvc warranty.

This has probably been asked before, but how long are the bulbs rated to last and what do they cost?

EDIT: Ok, I found the info on the JVC site. It indicates the bulb average is 6,000 hours and a replacement is $199.

I've been looking at the 61Z786 for some time, and I finally got a chance to tweak the picture today at a nearby retailer. After some fiddling, I was really quite impressed (to me it looked just about as good as the Mits 1080 DLP right next to it), and have basically made up my mind to purchase a JVC set (as I am rainbow senstive and see too much screen door on the Mits LCD's). The only issue is whether I wait for the 1080p models.

Anyway, the salesperson caught me tweaking and said they have two floor models and that they would give me a good price on one of them. After factoring in the warranty cost, and considering the 18 months no-interest deal, they have available now, it is really a pretty decent deal. I have two questions. First, should I shy away from buying a floor model? Normally, I would not consider this with an RPTV (especially in the past with CRT burn-in issues), but since I am going to get a 5-year warranty anyway, and the new digital technology doesn't really have burn-in issues, I'm wondering if the 5-year warranty protection would bascially protect me from any real problems? Second, since I can actually see and play with the unit I would get, what types of things should I look for or check before selecting the one I want (e.g., is there a way to check the convergence, etc.?

Thanks in advance for any help.

Well, I would normally say yea, but there's a thread that asked the same question, in the LCD forum Im think and whoa, people seemed of be against the idea. However, some sets were plasma and that may be a huge factor.

5 year warranty? Hell, get it, get it home, and if you see ANYTHING, simply exchange it for a new model.

ritner:
Before getting any aftermarket extended warranty, call your local service shops and ask if they honor that warranty. You may be unpleasantly surprised. That's a good idea, why didn't I think of it? ;)
I wished I had a dollar for everyone that bought a extended warranty and found out afterwards;
No one locally locally honored it or,
The shop was less than desirable.

Well, I've been going nuts trying to figure out which way to go, and I could really use some suggestions.

I've sat down at a Best Buy and looked long and hard at a 61" Samsung, Toshiba (is it 62"), and JVC.

The 61" Samsung didn't look as vibrant, but the sales rep said the bulb was going on that unit, and the 56" Samsung next to it was right on par with the JVC and Toshiba.

I really like the look of the Samsung floating screen, and the JVC is nice with the user-controllable "blue light" in front. I really hate the look of the Toshiba cabinet.

I couldn't see any discernable difference in the picture quality between the three sets (comparing with the Samsung 56").

The JVC was the only unit I could actually make out the pixels on, but that was roughly 2" away from the screen. Samsung and Toshiba appear to use a diamond shaped pixel that never appears defined like the squares.

So, onto my questions ... This is a SIGNIFICANT investment for me, so I'm thinking that 1080p might be a smart decision. Of course, I can't go to see it anywhere. Any thoughts on holding out for the "bigger chip"?

I'm concerned about DLP colorwheels ... you know, a 10800 rpm moving component is just begging for a problem.

The JVC concern, from my reading, appears to be a convergence issue. Something mentioned about green edges?

So, I'm hoping the owners in this forum could give me guidance, suggestions, experiences, etc.

One thing I'd really like to do is have a split-screen with TV on one side and my PC output on the other. Can this be done with the VGA input?

Please share your thoughts so I can finally make an informed decision.

I'm slowly back-tracking through the posts, but there is a lot of reading.

Many Thanks for any help you can offer! :)

Regards,

Marc

The JVC concern, from my reading, appears to be a convergence issue. Something mentioned about green edges? It's not really convergence it's CA and it is mostly a problem with the early 1st generation units, though it does appear once in a while.
Any set with 3 chips and optics cvan have the same problem,. After looking at other sets with a crosshatch signal from a portable signal generator, I have seen both elsewhere including DLP.
You mentioned Toshiba and Samsung, have you looked at the Mits LCD and/or DLP (though the DLP is a 1080 and more $)?

(and I said that in a JVC thread no less............. :eek: )

Just wanted to add briefly that a SPLIT-SCREEN with TV on one side and PC on the other is a feature I'm really looking for. In the Samsung thread, it sounds as though this cannot be done.

Does anyone know of any 1080p sets (excluding flat LCD and Plasma) that can do this?

Looking for an economical solution.

Thanks again!

Marc

cetacea:
There is a split screen option on the JVC, called "twin" in the manual. Each of the two displays on the screen can be set to a different input. I'm sure one can be OTA & the other VGA. If I get a chance to test this tonight, I'll post.

Mighty impressed with DVD playback via a cheapo Sony progressive scan DVD player on the 52G886 today.

Watched some Empire Strikes Back and the Festival sequence from Spider-Man at Sears. The colors on Spider-Man popped yet didn't smear, very stable. I thought blacks looked good, much better than what Sony's offering with their A10 series. There's a crispness and clarity to these sets that I simply don't see with the other technologies. In fact, as I was watching, I thought I was suffering from some eye strain. Could that be because I was looking too intently at the set for imperfections?

I was about 9ft away, which would be my viewing distance at home. Anyone else experience similar problems with eye strain? Is it something one just adjusts to after a while. I'm narrowed my search to a 52" JVC and 42" Panasonic HD plasma. I still don't know what to do, but I have to say that I'm very impressed with the JVC.

Any comments would be much appreciated.

I watch my 61Z786 from 12' away, and eye height is just above the bottom of the screen (a bit low).

I was about 9ft away, which would be my viewing distance at home. Anyone else experience similar problems with eye strain?


i sit 9ft away as well, no strain but blindness :D , try backlighting the display for strain relief, the first week i had the set i really had to squint it was so bright but after the bulb broke in it is awesome and with a backlight it is even easier on the eyes. i am in front of monitors for 12 hours a day so i dont need eye strain at home.

I watch my 61Z786 from 12' away, and eye height is just above the bottom of the screen (a bit low).
at my place eye level is 3 inches below center but i can lay down and get below the bottom without any loss of pic

The way my room is setup the botton of the TV will about a foot above seated eye level. Its very hard to tell if this would deteriorate the picture a lot based on how the sets are setup in stores.

Is anyone sitting this far below these LCoS TVs?

cetacea:

I tried Twin. Input 3 is set up for my satellite box and is also used for the VGA. If I have both active in normal viewing (satellite box on & PC on the VGA), the JVC defaults to the VGA. But in Twin, it seems to default to the satellite box, and I cannot get the PC image next to anything else- it always displays the satellite image (or grey if satellite box is off). Perhaps if input 3 was unused & unconnected and there was only a VGA connection, you could get it to work. I suspect that even when off, the satellite box is still detectable (never really goes completely off). Sorry I don't have time now to test this out further, gotta rush off to the Pittsburgh Renaissance Festival with She Who Must Be Obeyed (put that in just for auditor55 ;) ). I'll be back Sunday night.

kidred- think you might check this out for us?

She Who Must Be Obeyed


you mean there is more than one? holy sh*t we are doomed.

The way my room is setup the botton of the TV will about a foot above seated eye level. Its very hard to tell if this would deteriorate the picture a lot based on how the sets are setup in stores.

Is anyone sitting this far below these LCoS TVs?
a foot below ,seems to me at least at my place, like it will degrade somewhat now if it is tilted toward you that can compensate,

Navychop -- Thanks for trying. I'd really like to know for sure on this. Folks in the SAMSUNG Owners Forum basically say it can't be done on Samsung or any other for that matter.

I'd really love to see it work. Side by side TV (via a Brighthouse PVR) and PC input (notebook PC) would be a real blessing.

I considered buying a vga -> component video converter, but that's one more device to plug-in and tweak.

If it can do it native, I'm SOLD! :)

Let me know when you get back, or if anyone else cares to test.

Many Thanks!

Marc

i sit 9ft away as well, no strain but blindness :D , try backlighting the display for strain relief, the first week i had the set i really had to squint it was so bright but after the bulb broke in it is awesome and with a backlight it is even easier on the eyes. i am in front of monitors for 12 hours a day so i dont need eye strain at home.


How do you go about backlighting your display? Explain!!

hey guys- I just had my JVC calibrated yesterday and wanted to share some of the results. As nice as I thought I had my set tweaked, I was still pretty far off, my greyscale was too blue and I was at 8400k (you want to be at 6500k) Man, I'm now seeing colors I've never seen before and my blacks are 90% absolute black (RGB all the same). Before, they were slightly green.

-Color Management ON (made colors more accurate, so always leave this on)
-Detail -30 (all the way down, it introduces edge enhancement at -29, -28. It will look soft at first, but get used to it at -30)
-HDMI input is about 10% sharper then component (I will be switching cable to DVI-HDMI)
-Theater Mode has too much red, cannot be tweaked out, don't use Theater Mode ever.
-Standard and Game are the same, Dynamic has too much blue. So stick to Standard fro everything-game for games
-Dynamic Gamma crushes blacks, just beefs up the lower end of the greyscale
-Smart Picture cuts off the top of the greyscale
-Color temp High intros too much blue
-My set is now at 6500k
-My greyscale in now damn good
-JVC runs hot in the green, can not be fixed


So, as good as I thought I was able to tweak, my set was off, no doubt. Colors are still not 100% accurate because JVC does not have each color allowed to be tweaked (so calibration was cheaper) you can only adjust the RGB for the greyscale, not the actual color inputs. JVCs run hot in the green, and the reds are leaning towards orange more then true red. Cyan, Magenta and Orange are all pretty close to accurate. We got a damn good greyscale (all colors equal in greyscale gives you neutral greys and better blacks, etc) DETAIL starting messing with the picture if not completely off, so, detail should be off at -30. HDMI was crisper, by about 5%-10% when compared to component, so use HDMI if you can.

After it was done and i was watching the tv, I saw sky on an HD program that looked as the sky outside. The exact kind of light sky blue slightly faded but withe enough blue pop. I saw ocean that was a blue I've never seen before on a TV. My blacks looked deeper because they were black, not greenish or bluish, etc (I have my set modded with a ND filter) Colors are now accurate, they weren't before. After watching for a bit, wow, colors are something that I thought the JVC owned, which it did, but not in the greyscale. Fix that greyscale and man colors change. I can't wait for football today.

navychop- I don't use a HTCP so unfortunately I can't test or comment on twinview.

hey guys- I just had my JVC calibrated yesterday and wanted to share some of the results.
Thanks, Kid Red, for sharing. I'll give some of those a try.

Just a question, when you had your set calibrated, does the tech access service menus to get it to 6500K, or can I get my set to 6500K by make adjustments using the JVC menu? I don't have the funds for a pro calibration, but I do want to try to get my set to the best it can be. So far I've used AVIA and confirmed w/ the THX at the beginning of Star Wars, and both turned out good.

you can only adjust the RGB for the greyscale, not the actual color inputs. KR, do you remember the EXACT numbers that were set for the greyscale? That would help others since with this and all other sets, are still to blue even on the supposed 'warm' settings.

He said there were NO settings for the color encoder? :mad:

Interesting that the Color Management was better ON . :eek:
One 'auto' control that actually works to the good.

i can confirm that Twinviw w/ VGA doesn't work, or at least i couldn't get it working, Video3/PC is not available when you go into TwinView.

also can someone answer my post on #1461
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6187300&&#post6187300

Thx

How do you go about backlighting your display? Explain!!

There are various ways to go about it.
From using just a simple low light source placed behind the set, all the way up to using specialized lights and fixtures.

http://www.videoessentials.com/noteworthy_displaylighting.php

http://www.cinemaquestinc.com/ideal_lume.htm

Red,

Thanks for the info. Interesting about the detail. I have mine at +8 and it looks good to me. I had all other "enhancement" modes off. Set is definitely greeny though and tint is adjusted. Brightness at -5. Gotta keep in mind that this is the "red pinstripe" set still and is being replaced tomorrow. I have been playing with it all week though to give me an idea on how to set the new one.

Keep the info coming and thanks again.

Chaz

I'm nearing the end of my return window for my new Sony LCD 50" A10. I'm intrigued by the JVC mentioned here but much of this has me worried. Yes the Sony's seem to have their own set of problems but most seem to be people complaining about iris settings or something that is adjustable while here I find more of the problems are actual defects that call for a technician or return of the TV. I still wanted to see the new Gx86 but I can't even find a reputable store that carries it in the Dallas area. I've checked Tweeter, Best Buy, Circuit City and the Sears stores and none of them carry the JVC Gx86 TVs. This throws even more concern into the mix. I can't find a single KNOWN store in Dallas that will carry it. What the heck? Tweeter is an authorized JVC dealer and has other JVC stuff but said they won't be carring the ne LCoS. I certainly can't justify changing TVs when I can't even find a place to view one. Tweeter here in Dallas got the new Sony TVs in quickly and seem to be up to date. What's the deal? Do you have to buy online to get the JVC LCoS or what?

I still wanted to see the new Gx86 but I can't even find a reputable store that carries it in the Dallas area. I've checked Tweeter, Best Buy, Circuit City and the Sears stores and none of them carry the JVC Gx86 TVs. ... What's the deal? Do you have to buy online to get the JVC LCoS or what?
Have you tried the Fry's store in Arlington? They might carry it. I'm pretty sure the Fry's stores in Houston have the new models.

Circuit City doesn't carry the JVC LCOS sets. Best Buy and Sears should both have them. If not the G series, at least the previous Z series. I imagine overall picture quality to be pretty similar. I bought my JVC online to save about $600+ vs. buying locally. I bought the G series after viewing the Z series in the store, which I really, really liked compared to LCD and DLP RP.

Have you tried the Fry's store in Arlington? They might carry it. I'm pretty sure the Fry's stores in Houston have the new models.

Circuit City doesn't carry the JVC LCOS sets. Best Buy and Sears should both have them. If not the G series, at least the previous Z series. I imagine overall picture quality to be pretty similar. I bought my JVC online to save about $600+ vs. buying locally. I bought the G series after viewing the Z series in the store, which I really, really liked compared to LCD and DLP RP.

I'll check Fry's in Dallas tomorrow. The Sears stores don't seem to have them unless you order online and pick it up at a store. What concerns me is the widespread UNavailability of these sets. I mean, doesn't it make some people at least question it when you have stores like Best Buy, Circuit City, AND Tweeter neglecting to carry this TV when they carry so many others? I'm not worried about the TV in the first year but more like the 2nd, 3rd, etc.. years. I would assume that these stores are neglecting to carry these TVs for a reason. Is it just me who is uncomfortable about this? I just want to make sure I still have a good functioning TV in 5 years, even if it becomes my backup that moves to the bedroom. I'm not saying this because I'm a fan of Sony or LCD or DLP. I'm just wondering if others might have the same thoughts as I do.

Ok,

So, it looks like JVC ILA models will definately be the TV to go with for myself. Looks clearer than the Samsung DLP.

However, is the HD-567BP6 TV & stand bundle that Besy Buy just started carrying within the past few weeks the older JVC model and design? Has anyone gotten a true answer? Is the TV in this bundle a step behind the brand new 886's already or are both models new (best buy and new 886's), but the difference being color?

For $3,000 I want to get something up to date and not behind the times on the day I by the television which I would like to be soon?

Please advise and assist ASAP, Thanks in advance,
B

Online I found these at Costco. Someone has said that Costco will let you return an item if not satisfied at any time. 1. I'm wondering if they have these in the store since basically no one else in Dallas carries them. 2. I'm wondering if you can us this for bulb replacements and basically as a warranty since you will pay a membership fee yearly. Anyone here know much about Costco? I still have to find a place where I can actually view the TV before it can become a posibility.

Ok,

So, it looks like JVC ILA models will definately be the TV to go with for myself. Looks clearer than the Samsung DLP.

However, is the HD-567BP6 TV & stand bundle that Besy Buy just started carrying within the past few weeks the older JVC model and design? Has anyone gotten a true answer? Is the TV in this bundle a step behind the brand new 886's already or are both models new (best buy and new 886's), but the difference being color?

For $3,000 I want to get something up to date and not behind the times on the day I by the television which I would like to be soon?

Please advise and assist ASAP, Thanks in advance,
B

Wolfparty: I called JVC and asked them all these questions and they told me that the set at Best Buy is the same as the 886/887 series.

"Circuit City doesn't carry the JVC LCOS sets. Best Buy and Sears should both have them. If not the G series, at least the previous Z series. I imagine overall picture quality to be pretty similar."

Overall PQ is not similar from what I've seen. I saw a Z series the other day and chromatic abberation was horrid. The two new sets I've seen (at two different stores) offer a much better, and much more stable all-around PQ.

I'm nearing the end of my return window for my new Sony LCD 50" A10. I'm intrigued by the JVC mentioned here but much of this has me worried. Yes the Sony's seem to have their own set of problems but most seem to be people complaining about iris settings or something that is adjustable while here I find more of the problems are actual defects that call for a technician or return of the TV. I still wanted to see the new Gx86 but I can't even find a reputable store that carries it in the Dallas area. I've checked Tweeter, Best Buy, Circuit City and the Sears stores and none of them carry the JVC Gx86 TVs. This throws even more concern into the mix. I can't find a single KNOWN store in Dallas that will carry it. What the heck? Tweeter is an authorized JVC dealer and has other JVC stuff but said they won't be carring the ne LCoS. I certainly can't justify changing TVs when I can't even find a place to view one. Tweeter here in Dallas got the new Sony TVs in quickly and seem to be up to date. What's the deal? Do you have to buy online to get the JVC LCoS or what?

Kainan: Go to Sears or Best Buy. They should have them. They have them here in New Jersey.

etphonehome- You have to adjust the R, G, B drives in the service menu in order to achieve perfect greyscale and you'd need the calibration equipment hooked up to your set to know when that happens. Avia and THX will only help with color and tint, not with greyscale. My color and tint after calibration were about the same but all my colors changed when the grey scale was changed and the set was calibrated to 6500K.

video- I didn't write them down because every set will be some different. I had written down settings from a previous JVC owner who ad his ISF-ed and his settings varied from mine.

chaz- I know +8 may look good, as I said it will look soft at first, but I can tell emphatically, the JVC introduces edge enhancement (which is bad) at -28. So, you being at +8 have MAJOR edge enhancement.