Today's the big day for buying my HD TV. Down to the JVC DILA or Sony WEGA 50. I think I'm leaning towards the JVC. Sony got rid of the PIP, and Pic quality seems better on the JVC.

Any buyers remorse for all you JVC owners?? Help...

Also GO PATS!!

ljt064- No remorse here after having my JVC ISF calibrated and the pats will lose :)

Hmm.. Hopefully the set will look good enough with normal tuning (Avia). I really don't want to buy a new TV for $2K to 3K and turn around and pay $400 to have it ISF calibrated.

hi gang,

i have had my 70G886 for several weeks, and the more i watch it , the more i know that this set will be awesome once i have the 100 hours my isf guy wants me to have on the set before he comes over. unfortunately i sit too close to the set because it is the only choice i have due to the room configuration, and thus my quest to find a solution for the fan noise, which i know must have a solution. i still can't believe the color this set delivers.

KR: thanks for the isf information. i will use some of it immediately, and provide it to my guy when he calibrates.

Kanian: i would not be concerned over some of the stores in your area not having all of the models from the manufacturers. the circuit city and best buy stores all vary in their inventory, and sometimes the set is in the back, and someone is too lazy to bring it out until the "boss" is planning a visit.

hey kid red, were the only registers adjusted for grayscale the r g b drives? also now with your set isf tuned you are using the standard and low settings with color management on correct? one more, how off were your settings from avia tuning and do you plan to use the standard settings for all sources? thanks for your time.

I finally got a chance to view the JVC at Frys. I tested out the 52" and the 61". Poor guys at Frys had to run through hoops for me and I ended up not buying the set there because it was a better deal at TVAuthority. Anyway, I watched movies and played Halo 2 quite a bit. I was glad to be able to confirm that there indeed is no latency with this set. It felt spot on like the Sony LCDs. I will say that the Sony LCD had a slightly more pleasing look to me when playing Halo 2. The JVC 61" seemed a bit soft in some areas to me and hard in others. Strange. I'm not sure if it was truly a picture issue or just me though because the setup didn't allow me to get very far back from the screen. I ordered the 56" and not the 61" so I think I'll be more than happy.
When it came to DVDs it was pretty easy for me to tell the difference between the Sony and the JVC. While I commend Sony for their job with the latest A20 I did find that the JVC produced blacker blacks. One way to tell easier than anything is to put in a DVD that doesn't fill the entire screen (2.35.1 anamorphic leaves small black bars). The black bars should be.... well.. black. At all times. On the Sony you can see where it is a dark dark grey. Many won't notice but I'm not talking about the masses. I'm talking to people who care enough to spend hours on a forum like this (like ME). After looking distinctly for the blackness it wasn't difficult to judge which was darker. I played T2 and looked for detail that I know should be there. It seemed like it was all coming through while still maintaining blacker blacks than the Sony. The overall picture on the JVC looked great but to be honest it didn't make me think it was far superior over the Sony or the new Mits 1080p. To me they all looked awesome. Of course the 52" looked better to me because the smaller size made for more pleasant viewing considering I couldn't get more than 6 to 8' away due to the way things were set up.
In the end I bought this JVC because I do believe it to be the better TV for dark movies. I love horror movies and the blacks will look better on those DVDs with the JVC in my opinion. I'm not going to say that I was so blown away by the JVC that I would have lost sleep if I had missed my return window for my A20 but I do think it looks better. Plus, I was already going to take my A10 back and get an A20. After really spending some time with the A10 I found that the iris technology set to low really does help the blacks become blacker (anything above low just didn't seem to help and probably hurt the picture to me). This, leaving the A20 to be a bit brighter, made my decision to check out the JVC even easier.

I just ordered the JVC 56" from TV Authority with the Warranty Bundle that covers the bulb for 3 years. It just didn't seem beatable to me after researching other sites. If they had a lower price then their warranties were way HIGH and their rating from customers left a lot to be desired.

Picked up my 56" JVC HDILA set last weekend. Out of the box, I was thrilled with the DVD picture - but no so thrilled with picture through HD Box from Comcast. Non HD channels are really poor (maybe that's normal?) HD channels are certainly better - but I'm seeing fuzzy edges. Still pictures are incredible - but when there's motion, it seems to get real grainy around the movement. I never saw color like this on another set - and when looking at the picture side-by-side with plasma and other DLP sets, nothing was as bright, dark, and clear. My experience at home is somewhat less . . . I'm not a true "techie" so not sure what to do to get a better picture. $3k is a lot to spend and not be satisfied. Am I going to have to drop another $400 to have someone come calibrate? Just looking for some direction . . . I've read a significant amount of this thread, and have turned the detail down to -30. Anthing else I should consider?

ASKTK,

Is your STB set to 720p in 16:9? My comcast box (moto 6412) has difficulty changing 1080i to 720p but 720p is awesome. I may try a cablecard and see if TV does a better job converting.

Got my replacement set today, and it is awesome.

Chaz

I have the HD-52Z575 and I have been unsuccessful at getting any picture through the HDMI port.

I've tried to connect both a HTPC (w/ DVI-> HDMI cable) and my Comcast 6412 (the new Phase III) box (via HDMI->HDMI cable) and both resulted only in a green screen.

I think there must be something wrong with my HDMI port.
Has anyone gotten this to work with their HDMI port?

Picked up my 56" JVC HDILA set last weekend. Out of the box, I was thrilled with the DVD picture - but no so thrilled with picture through HD Box from Comcast. Non HD channels are really poor (maybe that's normal?) HD channels are certainly better - but I'm seeing fuzzy edges. Still pictures are incredible - but when there's motion, it seems to get real grainy around the movement. I never saw color like this on another set - and when looking at the picture side-by-side with plasma and other DLP sets, nothing was as bright, dark, and clear. My experience at home is somewhat less . . . I'm not a true "techie" so not sure what to do to get a better picture. $3k is a lot to spend and not be satisfied. Am I going to have to drop another $400 to have someone come calibrate? Just looking for some direction . . . I've read a significant amount of this thread, and have turned the detail down to -30. Anthing else I should consider?Just got my 61" this weekend, and I have noticed some of the same things you have. HD is awesome. SD is pretty poor. It helps turning down the detail to -30, as this removes some of the artifacts that I see on fast motion that you are probably describing as graininess or "fuzzy edges." I have noticed that the SD football feeds generally stink, especially from NFL Sunday Ticket. I assume they are really compressed. In any event, I'm wondering if the JVC does not do SD well, or if the JVC just provides such are revealing picture that krap looks like krap, and high quality stuff looks really high quality.

I have a couple of questions just having received my 61Z786 this weekend.

First, I notice that when you change the picture settings (i.e., color, tint, brightness, detail, etc.), it changes the settings on all inputs except Input 2, which seems to be independent of the others. This makes no sense to me, and I am wondering if this is the same on others' sets. It would seem that the picture settings would be separate for each input, or alternatively, that changing one would change all. What's so special about Input 2?

Second, I keep having to reprogram the Auto Tuner to keep my cable channels. I lose them every few hours or so, and when I switch back to TV, I get a black screen and it says "Weak Signal." Then when I switch Auto Tuner back on, the channels get reprogrammed (which takes a minute or two) and everthing is fine for a few hours. Am I doing something wrong, or is there likely a problem with my set.

By the way, the one thing I don't like about the JVC set (and maybe this is trivial), is that you have to cycle through the inputs every time. You should be able to jump from Input 1 to Input 4 without having to slog through 2 and 3, especially given how slow the unit changes channels.

On the other hand, the picture is quite fabulous especially in HD. I used to have a CRT, and I had to buy a drop screen for the oustide of the house to block the sun in the daytime so you could see the TV. Even then it was somewhat dim. Today, I watched football without the drop screen and everything was just colorful and vivid like you were in the stadium. And no glare. Pretty neat.

Also watched Pearl Harbor tonight on HD, and the picture was awesome, as was Armageddon last night. I kept thinking when watching Armageddon that if I had a DLP, I would be seeing rainbows all over the place when they were landing on the asteroid.

In any event, I'm wondering if the JVC does not do SD well, or if the JVC just provides such are revealing picture that krap looks like krap, and high quality stuff looks really high quality.
with D* sd stuff varies some channels look really good others are meh, you could try using a composite line for sd it utilize the comb filter, it may improve or not. D* over compresses so many channels now there is really no remedy until they switch over to the new sats, then many more channels will be less compressed as well in hd, this why i am still on sd, i am waiting until more of the stuff i watch is in hd before i upgrade.

For those tracking the JVC models, doesn't anyone know of a confirmed new G series model in the 61" screen size? I know a 56" and 70" are now available, but I've been unable to find any reference at JVC or otherwise to a 61" G series. Currently there's a Z series 61" available.

Thanks!

bradesp

Is there anything funky I need to do in order to use the composite input from video 4? My S-video works, but I get nothing on composite. I found nothing in the manual to explain that "switching" orsimilar is needed, but figured I would ask before having JVC come mess with it...

hey kid red, were the only registers adjusted for grayscale the r g b drives? also now with your set isf tuned you are using the standard and low settings with color management on correct? one more, how off were your settings from avia tuning and do you plan to use the standard settings for all sources? thanks for your time.


Correct. ISF techs calibrate greyscale, color management and color decoders. The JVC does not allow color management or decoders to be calibrated, so it was cheaper to have done.

I am on standard, color +1, tint -1, bright 0, pict 0, color temp low, detail -30, everything off color management on. I use standard for all sources as I was explained that's the way it should be. He calibrated Standard across 480p, 720p and 1080i. He didn't have time to check my DVD player, but once you are calibrated per scan rate, it doesn't matter the source. You would just tweak from their but my settings looked right on for HD, DVD and for SD.

Avia only changes the above settings. Avia really only get brightness, color and blacks tweaked but do nothing for SM settings. The JVC runs hot in green, orange in the reds and soft in the blues. The greyscale is really warm with lots of red. The color tmp you want is 6500k, mine was 8450k. The only way to fix that is ISF. The only way to get an accurate greyscale which improves colors and blacks is ISF.

I have the HD-52Z575 and I have been unsuccessful at getting any picture through the HDMI port.

I've tried to connect both a HTPC (w/ DVI-> HDMI cable) and my Comcast 6412 (the new Phase III) box (via HDMI->HDMI cable) and both resulted only in a green screen.

I think there must be something wrong with my HDMI port.
Has anyone gotten this to work with their HDMI port?

I have the same problem here with my 61Z786. I'm trying with a HDTV tuner (Accurian HTS-6000) via hdmi -> hdmi. Green screen.

I don't have anything else HDMI, so I can't test. I was trying to pull in a low VHF channel (2-1) that the JVC tuner would not consistantly. Running the Accurian via component, it receives that channel a little better.

Is there anything funky I need to do in order to use the composite input from video 4? My S-video works, but I get nothing on composite. I found nothing in the manual to explain that "switching" orsimilar is needed, but figured I would ask before having JVC come mess with it...
I'm running composite through video 4 with no problems. Didn't have to switch anything on or anything.

Thanks Smitty. I will have to have them out then.

I think I need someone to look at some audio issues as well. Since the volume seems to vary quite erradically, and even cut out completely for an hour or so...

No problem with DVI-HDMI on my cable and JVC.

I'm currently feeding my HD56G786 with a Motorola DCT6412 over DVI to HDMI. When I switch the cable box between 480i, 480p, 720p, and 1080i I don't notice a significant change in PQ. What is this telling me about the cable box and the TV?

If I understand things correctly, the cable box scales to whatever it's set to and the TV scales whatever signal it's getting to its native 720p. If I can't tell the difference between the cable box outputting 480p or 720p, can I assume that the cable box and the TV are relatively equal (close enough as to be undetectable to my eye) in their ability to perform this function?

On the cable box menu (black letters on a white background) I notice a "ghosting" around the fonts at the progressive resolutions, but the interlaced resolutions display the fonts cleanly. It's hard, for me, to tell how this translates to PQ on a HDTV station if it does at all. I'm not sure I have any idea as to why this is.

Last, with all the talk about the new HDMI equipped upconverting DVD players I ran out an bought a relatively inexpensive Sony DVPNS70H. Based on viewing a few different DVDs including two superbit titles, my wife and I can't tell the difference between the new Sony and an older progressive scan Pioneer. I had assumed that at the very least having a pure digital pipeline from digital disc to digital display would at least show some improvement over the older DVD player but I can't honestly say that there is much of a difference. There also doesn't seem to be much, if any, of a difference when running the sony at 480p, 720p, and 1080i.

I have to tell you that in all of what I've seen most of these TVs seem to upconvert 480p awesome. I thought about a new DVD player but just can't justify the cost for a very minimal to no improvement. I use the a 480p Denon with the Frouja (sp?) chip and the DVDs looked almost HD like to me on the Sony 50" A10. I don't expect anything less form the JVC after testing yesterday. I'm waiting for blue ray or something of significance before upgrading. It just seems pointless to me but I'm sure tons of people will disagree. Whether they disagree or not it all boils down to how well the TV upconverts. If it upconverts from 480p great then why buy a DVD player that does the same thing? I would be interested in seeing some evidence of a significant improvement in PQ before I would spend money while we nearing the Blue Ray and HD-DVD war.

I have a couple of questions just having received my 61Z786 this weekend.

First, I notice that when you change the picture settings (i.e., color, tint, brightness, detail, etc.), it changes the settings on all inputs except Input 2, which seems to be independent of the others. This makes no sense to me, and I am wondering if this is the same on others' sets. It would seem that the picture settings would be separate for each input, or alternatively, that changing one would change all. What's so special about Input 2?

Second, I keep having to reprogram the Auto Tuner to keep my cable channels. I lose them every few hours or so, and when I switch back to TV, I get a black screen and it says "Weak Signal." Then when I switch Auto Tuner back on, the channels get reprogrammed (which takes a minute or two) and everthing is fine for a few hours. Am I doing something wrong, or is there likely a problem with my set.



Anyone?

dvd on jvc, as far as i can tell if you get a good transfer dvd like i robot or something it will blow your mind, i borrowed a upconverting cheap cyberhome player from a friend and could not tell the difference either, i will stay my pioneer 480p unit until the hd/bluray war is settled,


smitty, not sure but i will look at it tonight, also i dont have cable so i cant help there

If someone could ansewer these questions with a simple yes or no i would appreciate it.

- Does each independent input have it own memory settings for brightness, color etc

KIDRED

When you had your set ISF'd. Did he reduce it to 6500k with a filter mod? OR was this done electronically. If it was done with a filter, what darkness of filter did you use.

Thanks
P

bradesp

The xxx786 & xxx886 models are the same TVs with the same electronics. 7 is all black, 8 has a silver bottom. The "G" & "Z" indicators are only to distinguish cabinet styles. I think the "G" is the thinner bezel. Again, the electronics are the same, they just put out the 61" in a slightly different cabinet (which I for one, prefer). So the 56G786 is the same as the 61Z786, except for screen size and a slightly different (wider?) cabinet. But when you move up to the 70" you get the media card reader and, I think, a second HDMI input.

If someone could ansewer these questions with a simple yes or no i would appreciate it.

- Does each independent input have it own memory settings for brightness, color etc

KIDRED

When you had your set ISF'd. Did he reduce it to 6500k with a filter mod? OR was this done electronically. If it was done with a filter, what darkness of filter did you use.

Thanks
P


I too would like to know this. Not like I will change my mind about the TV now but I would like to have someone confirm or deny the seperate input settings.

hey kid red i dont suppose you would post your r g b drive settings color tint picture bright etc post cal eh? i got lucky as heck i found a isf equipped shop in my hometown, its in a boutique home theater shop(really high end). i am considering setting up a grayscale appointment with them. i am convinced that a grayscale cal on these sets will probably be the most beneficial.

My hdmi and video 2 do NOT have seperate memory settings. Don't use any others yet.

So let me get this straight. Does the new HD-52G886 accept a native 1280 x 720 singal from its PC VGA input?

So let me get this straight. Does the new HD-52G886 accept a native 1280 x 720 singal from its PC VGA input?

Nope. 640x480 or 1024x768

Nope. 640x480 or 1024x768

:mad:

I have to tell you that in all of what I've seen most of these TVs seem to upconvert 480p awesome. I thought about a new DVD player but just can't justify the cost for a very minimal to no improvement. I use the a 480p Denon with the Frouja (sp?) chip and the DVDs looked almost HD like to me on the Sony 50" A10. I don't expect anything less form the JVC after testing yesterday. I'm waiting for blue ray or something of significance before upgrading. It just seems pointless to me but I'm sure tons of people will disagree. Whether they disagree or not it all boils down to how well the TV upconverts. If it upconverts from 480p great then why buy a DVD player that does the same thing? I would be interested in seeing some evidence of a significant improvement in PQ before I would spend money while we nearing the Blue Ray and HD-DVD war.

I agree fully. I just got the new TV a few weeks ago and when all the other sets rotated that left us short one DVD player. I was hoping to squeak a little more out of the JVC but it appears that that isn't going to happen with this Sony player.

Hopefully by the time the next generation of DVD comes out the price of good IR controlled HDMI switches will have come way down.

Has anyone tried a resolution with something other than 1024x768 using PowerStrip or something??

Has anyone tried a resolution with something other than 1024x768 using PowerStrip or something??
i was curious about this as well

The service manual for the Z series lists the native chip resolution as 1312 x 800.

So far it sounds like there is NO seperate settings for each input. :( Oh well, I guess you can't have everything. I thought this was pretty common practice now though..... :confused:

K, let's see.

pjf- 6500k was obtained by adjustments made in the service menu. ND filters only affect the amount of light, they do not affect color (they are neutral)

darthrsg- I could, but they would not obtain the same results on your set, due to possible variances. But the red was highest, then the green, then the blue was lowest. You also have to take blue and red out of the blacks in another adjustment. I have a filter installed so my settings may not gain the same result on someone else's set.

tint +2
color -1
pic 00
bright- +1
detail -30
noise off
color management on
gamma off
smart off


The memory is for each scan rate not for input- 480p & 480i are the same and 720p and 1080i are the same, so we get 2 sets.

Hey guys, I am looking to get the HD-61Z786 from a friend who works at CDW for around $2,600. I noticed there are the newer "G" models, what is the difference between the G and Z? or for that matter the HD-61Z585 and the HD-61Z786?

Do the firewire ports really only work for JVC products as well?

Crap, I just saw the answer on the model numbers, but the JVC site lists the MSRP's at a large difference, which is wierd.

Anyone knwo the answer to the Firewire ports? are they only for JVC products?

Yes, it's iLink, not firewire, and it's only for JVC's VCR or something.

So far it sounds like there is NO seperate settings for each input. :( Oh well, I guess you can't have everything. I thought this was pretty common practice now though..... :confused:
As noted above, on my set, the are separate settings for video input 2 (for reasons that are not clear to me). That input is being used for my HDTV cable box and I can adjust the settings for that input (color temp., detail, picture, tint, color, brightness) without affecting the settings for the other inputs. However, when I adjust the settings for the TV input, it changes the settings for video input 1, video input 3, and video input 4, and vice-versa. Don't make no sense to me.

bradesp

The xxx786 & xxx886 models are the same TVs with the same electronics. 7 is all black, 8 has a silver bottom. The "G" & "Z" indicators are only to distinguish cabinet styles. I think the "G" is the thinner bezel. Again, the electronics are the same, they just put out the 61" in a slightly different cabinet (which I for one, prefer). So the 56G786 is the same as the 61Z786, except for screen size and a slightly different (wider?) cabinet. But when you move up to the 70" you get the media card reader and, I think, a second HDMI input.


Just to Clarify, the only time the Z models show up in the 886 TVs is in the 61" and above. From what I see at the JVC site there are no Z model 886s below 61" so if you see a Z it would be the old model.

As noted above, on my set, the are separate settings for video input 2 (for reasons that are not clear to me). That input is being used for my HDTV cable box and I can adjust the settings for that input (color temp., detail, picture, tint, color, brightness) without affecting the settings for the other inputs. However, when I adjust the settings for the TV input, it changes the settings for video input 1, video input 3, and video input 4, and vice-versa. Don't make no sense to me.

Kid Red answerd this above

The memory is for each scan rate not for input- 480p & 480i are the same and 720p and 1080i are the same, so we get 2 sets.

Kid Red answerd this above
Oh yeah. I'm kinda slow today I guess. :)

Yes, it's iLink, not firewire, and it's only for JVC's VCR or something.

Sony's implementation of the system is known as i.Link, and uses only the four signal pins, discarding the two pins that provide power to the device in favor of a separate power connector on Sony's i.Link products.


I know the manual says that it only works with JVC products, but sometimes that merely means that they don't want to bother providing support for troubleshooting other configurations rather than that it definitely won't work.

iLink is firewire. I think that this will work with other FW enabled devices. Specifically AVHDD's, whenever they become available.

I know the manual says that it only works with JVC products, but sometimes that merely means that they don't want to bother providing support for troubleshooting other configurations rather than that it definitely won't work.

I tried plugging in a Motorola DCT6412 STB into one of the iLink ports, nothing happened, and the iLink selection on the input menu remained grayed out. Other than that it was an utter and dismal failure.

EDIT: However, I don't know for certain if the STB was outputing anything on its firewire port.

of note.... i happened across a service manual for a jvc lcd set, the registers are the same as the dila sets, one thing is that there is more detail on adjusting white balance and exactly what some of those registers mean. it wasnt a stretch to assume that the "cnt" values were for white level, but it was good to see it printed to know for sure. with that in mind you can set the preset picture settings and the sub picture settings for instance in the user menu set picture to 0(midpoint) go into service menu and set lets say ntsc cnt to 255(full on white level) then adjust it down according test pattern to proper level, this will allow 0 to be set correctly and give you "play" in the control, you can do the same for black level as they are the bl regs. that might help someone.

if anyone knows what the cr and cb regs are for let me know, i am guessing cuts for r and blue, or judging by the adjustment procedure for a-d offset it is for color balance?

this thread is stupid long btw lol :p

this thread is stupid long btw lol :p
hopefully full of stupid good info though. :cool:
which d-ila?

You also have to take blue and red out of the blacks in another adjustment.
.
i have just been digging internet all night at work in and out of various threads, forums, documents , etc. based on your cal experience and statements it seems to me that the cr and cb registers would be the ones you speak of. other jvc manuals have better descriptions for these adjustments and the registers are the same across many models. also others have posted post isf cal settings for the rgb drives and they all fall real close together from around 116-128. that said with those rgb settings and tweaking the cr cb registers one could assume a good grayscale. it is worth playing around with until the isfr gets here saturday. i am just getting a grayscale done on all inputs all sources until i can afford/need more done. btw kid the post cal settings you posted look great on my set :)

this thread is stupid long btw lol :pGuess he hasn't seen the Sammy threads.............

No I saw lol.

Not being critical but having one thread with over a couple of hundred posts is kinda pointless. So much ground to cover just to try and find a specific topic. You know what I mean? Maybe Im just rambling :D

But since you guys like to group everything into one thread can you post outside it just once ;) and reply to this link? Thanks http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=582754

okay, i just got the 52g786 and i am in the process of getting something else instead. the picture is VERY bright, and the HD signal is great when it's something recorded, but even the sports are pixellated on the wide angle shots. the SD picture is unbearable. it gets a little better if you get further away from it, but unacceptable. the picture is also crooked. i need to know what the best set is, not only for HD, but for SD as well. i can't take the digitized effect.

It doesn't sound like the problem is the set. It sounds like it's the source, connections or settings on the tv that are the problem. If the picture is crooked, say higher on the right side than the left the fix is very siimple. pull the hugher side towards you and push the lower side from you. Use a test pattehn to adjust it accurately. Yes the set is bright. It's the brightest RPTV there is. It is probably one of the best TV's for watching sports during the day in a bright room available. It doesn't yet sound to me like returning the set will fix your problems.

It doesn't sound like the problem is the set. It sounds like it's the source, connections or settings on the tv that are the problem. If the picture is crooked, say higher on the right side than the left the fix is very siimple. pull the hugher side towards you and push the lower side from you. Use a test pattehn to adjust it accurately. Yes the set is bright. It's the brightest RPTV there is. It is probably one of the best TV's for watching sports during the day in a bright room available. It doesn't yet sound to me like returning the set will fix your problems.

outlawimm: What is your source for HDTV?

Not being critical but having one thread with over a couple of hundred posts is kinda pointless. So much ground to cover just to try and find a specific topic. You know what I mean? I agree, but I'm just another poster that can't do anything about. it. Some forums like it that way, others complain if you bring up a old thread.
What I have done is to print out the whole thread, for me it's easier to read and anything of interest I hi-light and comment back if it isn't too old a post.

Yes, of course you can start another thread................

iLink is firewire. I think that this will work with other FW enabled devices. Specifically AVHDD's, whenever they become available.

iLink is a different variety of firewire. The iLink that JVC has only works with JVC devices, it's documented.

i have just been digging internet all night at work in and out of various threads, forums, documents , etc. based on your cal experience and statements it seems to me that the cr and cb registers would be the ones you speak of. other jvc manuals have better descriptions for these adjustments and the registers are the same across many models. also others have posted post isf cal settings for the rgb drives and they all fall real close together from around 116-128. that said with those rgb settings and tweaking the cr cb registers one could assume a good grayscale. it is worth playing around with until the isfr gets here saturday. i am just getting a grayscale done on all inputs all sources until i can afford/need more done. btw kid the post cal settings you posted look great on my set :)


Yea, the drives. That really all that can be calibrated. That and the red and blue in the blacks, not sure the name, but it was like s0014 and s0012 or something. 128 was the default, that was way too high for green and blue.

I'm glad my settings helped, wait till after yours is done, watch HD programs on oceans, or with skies and even football games. Colors are amazingly believable.

okay, i just got the 52g786 and i am in the process of getting something else instead. the picture is VERY bright, and the HD signal is great when it's something recorded, but even the sports are pixellated on the wide angle shots. the SD picture is unbearable. it gets a little better if you get further away from it, but unacceptable. the picture is also crooked. i need to know what the best set is, not only for HD, but for SD as well. i can't take the digitized effect.
Those brings up 2 points.
1. It is likely the feed and if you used to have a RPCRT and are like me then you will likley find all SD to look worse than the CRT. The CRT (Pioneer Elite) that I had would soften the picture instead of showing the jumbled mess that it really was, or so it seemed.
2. Opinions VARY. Just before reading your post I read one from another person on this forum (different topic) who said the opposite about SD. He was saying how the TV did everything good except blacks and was great for SD.

Hopefully I will have a good experience with this one. I don't want to pay to ship it back but I liked what I saw when I tested it. If you can't go DLP then this seems like the best choice (over LCD) to me. Of course I'll have much more to say once I've had my TV for a few days and adjusted everything a million times.

Is there much difference in picture quality between the 52Z575/585 and the 52g786/886 lines?

Is there much difference in picture quality between the 52Z575/585 and the 52g786/886 lines?


Yes. A lot. Get the G series.

Kid red, can you point me to the post # where you have your settings listed, thanks!

Hi All,

Sorry for posting in the owner's thread, as I am not one, but I'm hoping you can dispel some mis(?)information I received yesterday from 2 different salesmen.

Store #1 was Magnolia within BB. When I told the guy I was interested in either the new 1080p JVCs that will soon be available or the current model, he indicated the defect/return rate was higher on these sets than any other they sell. "Like 10%?" I asked? No, closer to 15-20%. This is pretty hard to believe, as JVC would have to be losing money at those levels. He also indicated that the JVC warranty was 1 year for part, but only 90 days for labor. "That should tell you something right there" he said. Is that true?

Store #2 was GoodGuys. Salesman kept trying to steer me toward the Sony A20. The JVC was initially set to dynamic, but I switched the setting to standard. The pic looked okay, but had a fair amount of video noice and blacks were definitely crushed in dark scenes. Is this a problem with these sets in comparison to the latest LCD RPs, or is it attributable to the in-store settings? Also, all sets in this store were split from a single D* feed -- there must have been 30 sets connected to the single feed!

The salesguys in both stores showed no real interest in selling the JVC, and both seemed to push other sets. Perhaps there is no incentives to sell these sets for the salesmen? Any comments you might provide would be helpful. Thanks.

hookem12- Should be just a page or two back, I think I posted it on Monday.

WannaBid- I had my 2nd light engine (3rd visit) well into my 3rd month of ownership at no cost. BB guy was probably trying to sell you a Sony huh? Sony is closer to MSRP so everyone makes more money. Next time ask about the return rate of the Sammys.

It is likely the feed and if you used to have a RPCRT and are like me then you will likley find all SD to look worse than the CRT. The CRT (Pioneer Elite) that I had would soften the picture instead of showing the jumbled mess that it really was, or so it seemed.

I had a Pioneer Elite CRT before I got the JVC, and this was my experience also, and what I thought was the likely explanation for SD looking the way it does. It just seems that the JVC reveals all that is there, which is why HD looks very good (much better than the Elite, IMO), and why SD looks so bad, especially when they compress the hell out of it.

I had a Pioneer Elite CRT before I got the JVC, and this was my experience also, and what I thought was the likely explanation for SD looking the way it does. It just seems that the JVC reveals all that is there, which is why HD looks very good (much better than the Elite, IMO), and why SD looks so bad, especially when they compress the hell out of it.

Also digital displays introduce noise, CRTs are analog and would not display that noise.

Hi All,

Sorry for posting in the owner's thread, as I am not one, but I'm hoping you can dispel some mis(?)information I received yesterday from 2 different salesmen.

Store #1 was Magnolia within BB. When I told the guy I was interested in either the new 1080p JVCs that will soon be available or the current model, he indicated the defect/return rate was higher on these sets than any other they sell. "Like 10%?" I asked? No, closer to 15-20%. This is pretty hard to believe, as JVC would have to be losing money at those levels. He also indicated that the JVC warranty was 1 year for part, but only 90 days for labor. "That should tell you something right there" he said. Is that true?

Store #2 was GoodGuys. Salesman kept trying to steer me toward the Sony A20. The JVC was initially set to dynamic, but I switched the setting to standard. The pic looked okay, but had a fair amount of video noice and blacks were definitely crushed in dark scenes. Is this a problem with these sets in comparison to the latest LCD RPs, or is it attributable to the in-store settings? Also, all sets in this store were split from a single D* feed -- there must have been 30 sets connected to the single feed!

The salesguys in both stores showed no real interest in selling the JVC, and both seemed to push other sets. Perhaps there is no incentives to sell these sets for the salesmen? Any comments you might provide would be helpful. Thanks.

****Also, all sets in this store were split from a single D* feed -- there must have been 30 sets connected to the single feed!****

This is what every store keeps telling me, is this true? They all say the picture will be better once you get it home.

The image on my 56g is significantly better at home using HDMI from a TWC SA8300HD STB than it was at Best Buy using component cables on the inhouse feed. Soooooo much better.

Hey Kid

Thanks for the info, what filter are you using now in your isf's set (4,5,6)??

Thanks
P

these are from the 52z service manual

A-D offset adjustment 525i

(1) Input a 525i Ramp pattern. (Component signal)
(2) Set to [STANDARD].
(3) Set to [FULL].
(4) Set to [LOW].
(5) Select [1.ADJUST] from the SERVICE MENU.
(6) Adjust < S001 >(PREPARE) from 000 to 008, goes
into the [525i input Cb offset] adjustment setting
mode.
(7) Adjust < S008 > (525i Cb offset) and < S009 > (525i
Cr offset) to sets to lose the gap (red line, green line
and blue line) which appears at both ends of a white
part at the center of the screen.
(8) Repeat from (6) and (7), then compleat 3 vertical line
of L and R side best.
(9) Adjust < S001 > (PREPARE) from 000 to 008,
it change to the normal mode.
(10) Press the [MUTING] key to save the value.
(11) Press the [MENU] key to return normal screen.

what dve or avia pattern is component ramp equivalent? is this a CA adjustment? please help my engrish translator is broken.


here is another:

BRIGHTNESS
adjustment


1) Input a 1125i Bright pattern.(which one for avia/dve)
(Analog component signal)
(2) Set to [STANDARD].
(3) Set to [FULL].
(4) Set to [LOW].
(5) Select [1.ADJUST] from the SERVICE MENU.
(6) Adjust < S030 > (Red drive), < S031 > (Green drive)
and < S032 > (Blue drive) to set the values [128].
(7) Adjust < S001 > (PREPARE) from 000 to 012,
it goes to [A/D offset] adjustment mode from
analog component signal.
(8) Adjust < S012 > (HDBL) to set the 0% part in the
upper half of the screen to be largest.(wtf?, 0% as in below black?)
(9) Adjust < S001 > (PREPARE) from 001 to 000,
it change to the normal mode.
(10) Press the [MUTING] key to save the value.
(11) Press the [MENU] key to return normal screen.

before making these adjustments you must set the tint,color,picture,bright all to 0,
color correction to on, dynamic gamma off, nat cinema off, noise reduction off, the set must also be in standard and low temp


i pretty much understand the second one, but the first is fuzzy.

here is another

A-D OFFSET
adjustment


(1) Input a 1125i 30% all-white pattern.(which pattern?)
(Analog component signal)
(2) Set to [STANDARD].
(3) Set to [FULL].
(4) Set to [LOW].
(5) Select [1.ADJUST] from the SERVICE MENU.
(6) Adjust < S030 > (Red drive), < S031 > (Green drive)
and < S032 > (Blue drive) to set the values [128].
(7) Adjust < S001 > (PREPARE) from 000 to 013,
it goes to [Cb offset] adjustment mode from
analog component signal.
(8) Adjust < S013 > (1125i Cb offset) to minimize the
blue noise in the upper half of the screen.
(9) Adjust < S014 > (1125i Cr offset) to minimize the red
noise in the upper half of the screen (Fig.4).
(10) Readjust < S013 > and < S014 > to set the upper
half of the screen to be no color(does this mean gray?) or lightest color.
(11) repeat from (8) to (10) then adjust the adjustment
screen lightest color.(wtf?)
(12) Adjust < S001 > (PREPARE) from 001 to 000,
it change to the normal mode.
(13) Press the [MUTING] key to save the value.
(14) Press the [MENU] key to return normal screen.

Does anyone know if you have your set calibrated, but then need you light engine replaced, does it need to be re-calibrated after or would the setting be the same.

Thanks
P

Does anyone know if you have your set calibrated, but then need you light engine replaced, does it need to be re-calibrated after or would the setting be the same.

Thanks
P
i had my engine replaced and only had to re adjust picture and color but they werent much different form what i had before replacement.

i have hdmi cable........and it's Directv..........my 15" flat panel LCD takes the picture just fine, but that is obviously too small to show minor imperfections

Well, after much contemplation at BB between the 56' JVC 567BP86 and the Samsung DLP I decided to go with the JVC because it looked 10 times clearer and much sharper to my eye than Samsung's DLP from every angle with the DVD that BB was running at the time. Picture looked CRISP and Fresh. Thanks for all the advice on this forum!

I now have the JVC setup on it's stand that it came with about 9 ft away from the couch in my bonus room. Time Warner Cable's HD box looks great (eventhough I think they make a better box) on HD channels, but standard channels not so great. Tweeking will help or should I just expect this?

DVD, however is a major disappoinment as of right now, because it seemed much clearer at BB. Tried watching The Longest Yard (Sandler not Reynolds) using component cables from a new Sony DVD player straight to the JVC 567BP86 (BB'S numbering), and pictures looks very grainy and had a crappy picture. Might I add that Xbox was also grainy. Any suggestions?

I'm sure being a newbie and un-techy in the world of this new television is a great disadvantage, but any suggestions, pointers, or websites would be of great help to getting what I think is the best RPTV out there to its full capabilities( Outside of calibration that is)

Thanks, B

Hi all.
I just spent a couple of days at a friends place and he has a panasonic 50" lcd projection set.
It looked so much better on sd than my JVC 56" set. Could someone suggest what settings I should have my Dish network box and JVC set to.
Thanks,
Howard Hurwitz

wolf party get avia or dve and tweak it out, 480p dvd is excellent depending on the source, these sets have that film look which i love

Thats odd Wolf, I just opened up a 61" model and had the same problem. TV looked fine but DVD looked like ****. I ordered Avia last night so hopefully that will make a difference but I find it very strange that out of the box TV would look fine and DVD would look bad.

True indicator that the 1080P JVC is just around the corner.

Just go to Vann's and place a 70" 720P in the cart - with a free stand or harmony remote, free shipping and no tax. Just an indicator that they must be coming any day folks. Cannot post the price or link though. :D

tunaman & others-

good to see I'm not the only one who thinks this! maybe I was expecting too much? i guess i have 30 days to figure out the problems and the quirks and fine tuning, or I can always take it back. whether the TV just doesn't produce like I expected or hopefully getting Avia might help (Probably ordering it tonight). Still taking suggestions from others on tweaking this new TV.

however, if I can't get this JVC to act like I want and think about getting the Samsung DLP it sounds like I would be moving sideways or backwards in product.

I guess my overall question would be, "will I experience the same stuff from my quote above about my JVC with any 52 inch or bigger RPTV with today's technology? would I be wasting time by switching to another like Samsung DLP, Mitsu, etc?"

Would anyone be willing to post a few pics of SD on these sets? Also, has anyone compared these to the optoma DLP, it's looking like these will be the sets I will make my decision from.

True indicator that the 1080P JVC is just around the corner.

Just go to Vann's and place a 70" 720P in the cart - with a free stand or harmony remote, free shipping and no tax. Just an indicator that they must be coming any day folks. Cannot post the price or link though. :D

Thanks for the tip Westa. You're right, I think Vanns just dropped the price. I too hope that means the JVC is right around the corner.

I know that you had originally planned on a HLR6768. Mine just went back yesterday. My set had a strange defect -- it played DVDs fine, but cable would go out after about 5 minutes. It must have been some sort of loose connection that once the set warmed up, a connection expanded and I received the "weak or no signal" message. But I'm not getting a replacement HLR because I saw rainbows. Yuck! So, like you, I'm now checking out the SXRD but I have high hopes for the JVC 1080p. I'm not sure I could settle for a 60"er from my 16' seating position! I hope you are wowed by your new set when it arrives.

Hey Kid

Thanks for the info, what filter are you using now in your isf's set (4,5,6)??

Thanks
P

I'm using the .5 ND Kodak gel wratten, but should have gone with the .6. I will probably get it soon.

darthrsg-
That's all the stuff the ISF guy will adjust. It's fruitless without thier test equipment and software/laptop etc to measure the adjustments. You can eye it, but it will still be off without the equipment they use. You can not adjust CA.

NO SUV IS LARGE ENOUGH FOR THIS TV....

hehe

last nite i went and picked up a HD567BP6 from bestbuy total out the door with the service plan was 3300...

installed it like a charm.....and am in total heaven...


i have the pio 1015 avr.....and love it

the set up looks super

HD SUPERP
and SD so MUCH better then on my sisters 42 inch sony IV

im in love...

hehe

so the 2 things im asking you guys

played a dvd and now im looking into a new upscaling player...
any opinions on models? I hate to buy a new one with a new format coming out soon but with 600 dvds i think its a must

also setting wise on the screen,

how do u have it set up

im using component out of the pio and cable box....i didnt see a significant increase in signal quality to use hdmi/dvi out of the stb....

Kidred... what are your RGB drive values now that your set was ISF'd? What were they before it was ISF'd?

NO SUV IS LARGE ENOUGH FOR THIS TV....

....

Really? It fit in my Aztek with the back seats folded forward... no problem.

played a dvd and now im looking into a new upscaling player...
any opinions on models?

I have your exact tv and I just purchased a Sony DVPNS70H upconverting DVD player. I honestly can't tell the difference between it and my old Pioneer progressive scan. Of course YMMV.

yeah it fit but i had to lay it on its side with all seats folded down, it would not fit standing up of course.....no biggy though i took that crappy stand off and threw it to the side....

as for the dvd player

im looking for one that does 720p or 1080i over components...but from what ive read the only ones that do that, dont allow you to do it on store bought dvds with copy protection...

talk about a pain having to use dvd decrypter and the like to get rid of cce...

the reason i bought a receiver was to avoid having to switch inputs on the tv....but it seems like it is pretty much unavoidable anymore...

Really? It fit in my Aztek with the back seats folded forward... no problem.

Well, not sure what I would call an Aztek, but it probably wouldn't make you like me much :)

The settings are much lower then OTB, but on a sliding scale. Red at 120 or so, green at 110 or so and blue around 90 or something. But a ISF tech with his equipment is really the only way to accurately adjust these settings.


BALDheadedGRL- 1) Panasonic S97 /S77 2) Oppo (something, 77?) Check the DVD forum for more info but those are the top two at the $300 price point. After that, Denon would be my recommendation.

thanks man.... ill look into it


*side note, what part of orlando you in? i used to live in winterpark.....

Hey Everyone, long time reader, first time poster here. I have been following the JVC DILA's for way too long now. I went to BB the other night and tweeked the 56G on display as recommended here (everything but CM off, detail all the way down, etc.) Then I put in my superbit copy of The 5th Element and watched for a while. Overall the picture is very nice but I was shocked at how much SSE was visible (sparkles over the entire screen). Literally like a layer on top of the picture I could not get past. I searched like crazy on the forum for mention of SSE and these tv's but I found very few references.

Are the folks who have these sets in their homes seeing SSE? Or could this just be a dirty display model?

Sometimes i notice SSE bad like that as well, but then I will go weeks and never see it. Just depends on the material I guess.

There's tons of information in this forum about SSE. There is even a currently active thread within the first couple of pages here....
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=582463
But anyway, yes the JVC D-ILAs do have SSE (I've seen it myself) as do DLPs and RP-LCD TVs. My Samsung DLP and my Sony A10 RP-LCD TVs both have it. Its inherent in the screen design of RP TVs. Many people either don't notice it or are able to ignore it or don't care about it. The SSE that you saw may have been exaggerated by bright store lighting or the brightness of the TV. It is less noticeable in a dimly lit viewing room with more realistic picture settings. SSE is also more noticeable in material with bright whites such as snow.
Exactly, good post!

I only see SEE if I sit too close and see a completely white background. I don't remember seeing in in 5th element. Maybe your picture is set too high? Go to the pic where you see SSE and pause, then reduce your picture setting and see what happens and remember to walk off at least 10 paces ;)

BALDheadedGRL- Casselberry :)

MANTI5- SD on the JVC is very good if you have good cable. I've heard it's less then stellar on DTV because they over compress the signal. I can post SD pics for you if you are on the fence and the pics will convince you one way or another.

yes the JVC D-ILAs do have SSE (I've seen it myself) AkaStp; Now I can see where the SSE of the Mits LCD bothers you if you say you see it on the JVC. :eek:
Never really noticed it since I wasn't looking for it because I only really saw it on LCD & Plasmas.

AkaStp: I should have clarified my search... Tons of info about SSE, yes, but very little about SSE and these particular JVC sets. That is why I posted in this thread. I am trying to figure out if it is something others saw at the store on the JVC but not as much or at all at home.

The little mock living room at BB had the seats about 7-8 ft. from the 56G and the screen was facing the larger area of the store so the lighting is non-ideal to say the least. My living room environment will be 8-10 ft with considerably less ambient light even in mid-day.

Interesting videobruce, immediately after my session with the JVC, I spent some time watching a panasonic 50PHD50U without a hint of SSE.

I am currently playing with room lighting to minimize the sse. Set is a 52G and yes I can see it. I am more succeptible to SDE though and can see that at almost any distance (on LCD not LCOS). I've been told that I'm "too picky" (LOL), that's why I post here, because we all are.

has anyone tried these jvc lcos tv's with video games? i was wondering if they have expierienced any lag because i wanted to buy the samsung dlp but everyone complained about lag in video games, now i am stuck deciding between the jvc lcos or the toshiba hmx95 series tv, anyone have an opinion on which is a better tv and if they have video game lag, thanks alot

This TV is phenomenal for XBOX. I can't comment on the Toshiba. Good luck.

has anyone tried these jvc lcos tv's with video games? i was wondering if they have expierienced any lag because i wanted to buy the samsung dlp but everyone complained about lag in video games, now i am stuck deciding between the jvc lcos or the toshiba hmx95 series tv, anyone have an opinion on which is a better tv and if they have video game lag, thanks alot

has anyone tried these jvc lcos tv's with video games? i was wondering if they have expierienced any lag because i wanted to buy the samsung dlp but everyone complained about lag in video games, now i am stuck deciding between the jvc lcos or the toshiba hmx95 series tv, anyone have an opinion on which is a better tv and if they have video game lag, thanks alot



on the jvc xbox is tha bomb digity, 360 will own :) , cant speak for toshiba, btw the new burnout on xbox will make your eyes bleed :D

I can give two big thumbs up for videogames. I played a few hours of Halo 2 earlier today. I just got the set and need to adjust it a bit more and figure out what I like.
This is all early comments but I'll throw in a bit. I was originally turned off by the DVD quality as compared to the A10 that I sent back. After using the Avia disk and dialing the sharpness/detail all the way down I found myself pretty pleased. I still don't think the TV upconverts the 480p signal quite as good as the Sony did in some respects but I had my A10 for right at 30 days and I adjusted and tweaked it for probably 25 of the 30. My point is that I still need to spend some time with the unit to give an honest and thorough impression. I will say that the DVD certainly doesn't look as good as my Pioneer Elite RPCRT did but neither did the Sony A10. I will also say that the A10 had an advantage in how I felt about the picture because the TV is 6" smaller than the JVC that I have now. Six inches is a pretty signicant amount of screen increase when I'm sitting right at 11' away. You are going to see more.
Halo 2 looked pretty darn good but it looked good with the A10 as well. I haven't seen a TV that I thought it looked bad on to be honest (since testing). The problem has always been lag and that is why DLPs went out the window. If you are going to play games then you push yourself out of the DLP market unless you want to buy an old model. So far I'm pretty happy with the JVC but want to spend more time playing before I say much more.

I would appreciate that, Kid.

Red at 120 or so, green at 110 or so and blue around 90 or something.
Damn OTB - green, 128 / red, 112 / blue, 103

Wonder why they dont get it closer to calibration in the factory?

Damn OTB - green, 128 / red, 112 / blue, 103

Wonder why they dont get it closer to calibration in the factory?

Most sets run hot on the green because the human eye will accept it. Also, these sets are set to sell on store floors and need colors & brightness to stand out. I just always thought an accurate color would sell better, but I'm sure there are millions of average Joes that would disagree.

Can someone tell me what the difference is between the HD-52G886 vs the HD-52Z585? Which is newer? Which is "better"?

Thanks

(I can't decide btw this and an A10 :( )

I'd like to know the difference as well, seeing as how the z585 is listed as almost 18.5% more $ than the g886 on the jvc site.

Also, I do have a dreaded stuck pixel (green). Will it ever work again? Can I expect more over time? It is not notieable until a solid dark screen was put up. Wish I never looked at it, well, you know how that all goes. Set is a week old and it might have been there since day one.

Chaz

Can someone tell me what the difference is between the HD-52G886 vs the HD-52Z585? Which is newer? Which is "better"?

Thanks

(I can't decide btw this and an A10 :( )
z are older g are newer

I have a Tosh 55" CRT. It's 5 years old, and I'm ready to trade up to HD.

After looking at sets in different B&M's for the past couple of weeks, I've narrowed it down to the JVC. Took my SO out to look at it last night, and she was also more impressed with the JVC over the Samsungs and Toshibas.

We just can decide on whether to get the 52" or 56". I like the wow factor of the 56", she likes the smaller one because it will "not over power the room" the way the 55" does down.

Our viewing distance is 10 to 11 feet away. Would we be torched by the 56" at that distance? The wall where the TV sits is 86" wide, and the 56" JVC is a couple inches wider than the 55" that we have now.

I keep thinking that even with the larger set, it's going have a cleaner look since the cable box and reciever and stuff will be on the stand and not stacked on top of the set.

Is that right? Would the 56" be too large for the room and our viewing distance? Should I settle for the 52"? Wife says that she just wants me to be happy with it and that she'll accept the 56" if that's what I really want. Trouble is, now I'm not sure any longer.

Thanks, and any help or comments would be appreciated.

-bruce
HD newbie

Z is the 1st generation (last years) without the tuners and the G's are this years with the ATSC/QAM tuner. There are other circuit changes also and s slightly different cabinet.

Folks,
I am a newbie here but have gone through most of the posts in this thread. I am getting a great deal on the G886 in "Video Only" here. I have seen folks discuss some issues with the 886 but seems like they are all either "liveable" or just plain right issues with specific set in question.

Video Only offers a $100 three year extended warranty while other places like Fry's offer a $250 three year. Has anyone had any experience with Video only (and their warranty)? Any recommendations?

Thanks
APR

I would take another look at 'Video Only'. There have been other posts regarding problems dealing with them.

Check Reseller Ratings.

I would appreciate that, Kid.

Here are 3 pics of CNN. They are clean, excellent colors, just slightly soft because I used no flash, a slower shutter and there was some motion. I have cable so CNN is analog, not digital. Keep in mind, however, that I have a ND filter mod and my set has been calibrated, so YMMV.

I hope I helped you choose a set.

I was wondering if anyone is hooking up their sat tuner,dvd player into a preamp and then directly into the hdmi input on the set. I have the 61Z786 and I have a sony upconverting player using a hdmi to dvi cable running into a outlaw 990 and I have my dish 811 with a dvi-d cable going into the 990 and comming out of the 990 is a dvi to hdmi cable. I have issues with it. I am wondering if the tv is handshaking incorrectly with the components. I contacted outlaw and they said they have never had a problem before so he thinks it is a handshake problem.

I get a interlacing problem sometimes and I then turn off the preamp and dish and then turn back on and it is fine, but when I go to dvd and back and forth it comes up again and on my dvd player the right part of my screen is black.

I saw on here somewhere that a few people had problems with their hdmi input on the JVC tv.

Please help as I don't want to go through a huge mess as I already have alot to deal with raising a child with a double transplant. It takes up all my time. Thank you.

Folks,
I am a newbie here but have gone through most of the posts in this thread. I am getting a great deal on the G886 in "Video Only" here. I have seen folks discuss some issues with the 886 but seems like they are all either "liveable" or just plain right issues with specific set in question.

Video Only offers a $100 three year extended warranty while other places like Fry's offer a $250 three year. Has anyone had any experience with Video only (and their warranty)? Any recommendations?

Thanks
APR
welcome,

i have had several video only extended service contracts from their california stores. they were thru general electirc, and the first factor is that general electric is a substantial provider, and they have the financial stature to be here in the future. some of the companies are fly by night, and i also found that video only's prices were consistently cheaper than others.

depending on where you are, be sure to check onecall.com they have great prices, and are reliable.

I have a Tosh 55" CRT. It's 5 years old, and I'm ready to trade up to HD.

After looking at sets in different B&M's for the past couple of weeks, I've narrowed it down to the JVC. Took my SO out to look at it last night, and she was also more impressed with the JVC over the Samsungs and Toshibas.

We just can decide on whether to get the 52" or 56". I like the wow factor of the 56", she likes the smaller one because it will "not over power the room" the way the 55" does down.

Our viewing distance is 10 to 11 feet away. Would we be torched by the 56" at that distance? The wall where the TV sits is 86" wide, and the 56" JVC is a couple inches wider than the 55" that we have now.

I keep thinking that even with the larger set, it's going have a cleaner look since the cable box and reciever and stuff will be on the stand and not stacked on top of the set.

Is that right? Would the 56" be too large for the room and our viewing distance? Should I settle for the 52"? Wife says that she just wants me to be happy with it and that she'll accept the 56" if that's what I really want. Trouble is, now I'm not sure any longer.

Thanks, and any help or comments would be appreciated.

-bruce
HD newbie

bruce,

go for the 56 inch. you will find that in a short periof of time, the size will easily moderate, and the set will not appear as big to your environment. if i had a dollar for everyone who says " i wish i had gone a little larger", i would be wealthy

I'd say go for the 52. The wall is only 7 feet wide so it'll fit without being overpowering. (then again, my wall is 11 feet wide and my goal is to eventually fill it completely!). I sit about the same from the 52 and the pq is awesome.

z are older g are newer
Not necessarily. G and Z are cabinet models, they have nothing to do with the rest of the TV. For example the newer 61s are Z models and dont offer the G at all

The 500's are old and the 700s and 800s are new (700s black, 800s silver)

I'd say go for the 52. The wall is only 7 feet wide so it'll fit without being overpowering. (then again, my wall is 11 feet wide and my goal is to eventually fill it completely!). I sit about the same from the 52 and the pq is awesome.
I sit 10 feet from a 61 and its the shiz

THX calculater says 6.5 feet is recommended for 61inch HD!

Well, looks like 56 would be great then. I'd go by your experience over that dumb calculator (just being a smart a$$ here). I never did find that thing to be accurate. How's 6.5' look on the 61"? It's too close for the 52".

Not necessarily. G and Z are cabinet models, they have nothing to do with the rest of the TV. For example the newer 61s are Z models and dont offer the G at all

The 500's are old and the 700s and 800s are new (700s black, 800s silver)



insert foot in mouth

WWOOOHOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!

HELL YEA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well Hurricane Rita came and went in Houston, so I decided that, damnit, I DESERVE that HDTV that I've been waiting years for. So after reading these forums for about 6 hours last night and then touring the local Fry's and Best Buy's today, I FINALLY made a purchase.

Originally, I was set on DLP seeing that all the recent reviews seem to rave about it, and I was intent on the Samsung 50" DLP. However, after reading horror story after horror story about the lag it experiences in gaming, I started to cry (not really, but I wanted to). The next unit that I "decided" on was the Sony A10. Again, nothing but glowing reviews...but I was still not satisfied for some reason. So on I read. Then I finally stumbled upon these JVC HD-ILA displays w/ LCoS. I had YET to ready ANYTHING on LCoS other than no one really uses them, so I immediatly wrote the JVC off. But after reading more and more about it, it sounded more and more like exactly what I was wanting.

So today I headed off the do the HDTV rounds at the local stores. And fortunatly, the Best Buy I went to not only had ALL 3 models I was seriously considering on display...they were RIGHT next to each other (along with every other major HDTV I could have considered). Now, I'm quite the anal person and I enjoy taking my time...but as soon as I saw these displays next to each other in the same lighting conditions, it really wasn't any competition.

No, I didn't see the rainbow on the DLPs. And no, I didn't see the screen door effect on the LCD RP's. So that had no bearing on my decision. What I did see was Pure Joy emitted from the JVC HD-52G786. To my taste, NO OTHER HDTV in the entire place (and they had ALOT of them on display) came close to the saturation and color that the JVC produced. Now, bear in mind that I've always prefered a vivid, saturated picture as opossed to something that is dead-on accurate w/perfect skin tone. Now this is NOT to say that the JVC produces skin tones and neutral colors that are overblown, I just find them much more "alive".

Well, I ended up fighting the price down with the BB salesman from $2500 to $2100 with a free stand (and no extended warrenty.../pat_on_back). I called my 2 other HDTV owning friends and called them over to help me carry it in and set it up. And now, sadly for them, they're rather convinced that I have purchased the greatest looking HDTV they've ever seen and have since made their own home HDTV experience somewhat "lacking" :) . Good.

However, my wife was rather upset as soon as she saw it's size. How, you ask, did I win her over in 5 minutes and convert her to the new 'JVC elated' status? It only took 5 minutes of 'A Bug's Life' and she was in awe. :)

So I guess, I'm just writing this to let you guys know that you have another EXTREMELY satisfied JVC HD-LIA user to add to the list.

I do have a couple questions though:
1. How long do these bulbs last and how much do the cost to repair?
2. Can these sets suffer from a burn-in?
3. I have not done ANY kind of changes in the setup menu. Are there settings that every JVC D-ILA owner should change? What, if anything, should be looked at here?

Thanks!

And here's a pic w/my Athena AS-F2.2's:
http://cs.baylor.edu/~hickeyw/hdtv.jpg

Stangs,

Congrats. I also have my towers next to the 52g886 like yours. For your preferences, I believe you'll be a happy camper.

1) Average bulb life is 6,000 hours per JVC. Debated whether that means viewed hours or not. Could last a year or more, could last months. Cost ~$200 for a new one.

2) No burn in, but may show image retention that goes away.

3) Not sure. I fiddled for a week and ended up with color -2, picture -5, brightness -10, detail -1. all fancy modes off except for color management. Connected to STB via hdmi/dvi. Found this sharper than component.

BTW-I was in Houston on business a few weeks ago (during first hurricane). Loved the hot weather!

Stangs55: More pics! I always love the pics!!! :D

Stangs,

Congrats. I also have my towers next to the 52g886 like yours. For your preferences, I believe you'll be a happy camper.

1) Average bulb life is 6,000 hours per JVC. Debated whether that means viewed hours or not. Could last a year or more, could last months.

2) Cost ~$200 for a new one.

3) No burn in, but may show image retention that goes away.

4) Not sure. I fiddled for a week and ended up with color-2, picture-5, brightness -10, detail -1. all fancy modes off except for color management. Connected to STB via hdmi/dvi. Found this sharper than component.

Thanks for the input :) .

I'm now in the proccess of pressing the 'Buy' button on a Panasonic S77S DVD player to up convert my movies. Does anyone have any experience w/this player and the D-ILA's? I've read some glowing reviews on the S77S, but I just wanted to make sure it complimented the JVC as well. Is there another player at this price point ($200) that you'd recommend?

Sadly, the single HDMI port on the JVC is already limiting me seeing that my HD cable box is currently taking it up. That leaves my DVD player w/component video. Will I be able to tell a difference between the HDMI and my $100 component cables for DVD's?

Thanks for the comments and suggestions, guys. I've pretty much nailed it to the 56" -- at least that way I'm sure I'll avoid a case of BSSR (buyer's screen-size remorse). :)

Great pix Stangs55. The JVC looks as clean as I thought it would, and I love the Athena towers. They compliment the JVC very nicely!

-bruce

Ok, I wanted to wait through the weekend before I wrote up my summation of my thoughts on the JVC and my journey that put it in my living room.

As most know, I started wanting Sammy 1080p but it had horrible latency issues as did all of the other newer DLPs. I tested and retested and was always let down by the latency. I then felt happy and purchased the 50” Sony A10. I had this set for the full 30 days before returning it to get the JVC. I think the A10 has a lot going for it but the extra boost pushing me was that I really wanted a 55” to 58” TV and the 50” A10 felt a bit small from 11 feet away because I previously had a Pioneer Elite 610 (58”). In the end it cost me an extra $100 to change because I had to pay to deliver the Sony and then have them pick it up. I’m in a wheelchair so I just couldn’t move it. Maybe tie it to the back and wheel it to the store but I don’t think they would take it with the bottom completely rubbed off. :) Anyway, after spending all of this time I figured I would discuss some of the main things I noticed.

1. The Sony A10 had micro blocking (digital chunks too big too be pixels but not huge). After discussing this issue I thought it was pretty much a problem all of the newer digital sets had with average to below average video feed. The JVC proved me wrong. SD and crappy HD (upconverted junk OTA during non prime time) looked soft instead of blocky. Personally I prefer soft WAY over the micro blocking and SSE.
2. The A10 had some SDE and the JVC has none that I see. To be honest this isn’t a big issue to me because I didn’t notice SDE past 4’ or 5’ from the A10. I guess I mention this just in case it was an issue for someone else.
3. Great HD looks phenomenal on the JVC. I thought the prime time HD shows looked good on the A10 and feared what I would see on a TV that was 6” larger but the JVC really looks awesome. The colors are bright and the image is stable. I couldn’t be much happier.
4. Black level… Some talk bad about the black level on the JVC but it is one of the other key reasons I switched from the A10 to the G series JVC. I thought the A10 was good with the iris turned on but I was going to be bumping up to the A20 55” and it doesn’t have the iris technology which leaves it with a worse black level. The JVC might not match the black level in the DLPs but it is right behind it. I will say that I have to turn the brightness up a bit for Games after playing DVDs because I like Halo 2 to have more brightness so I can see everything clear on some of the darker maps.
5. DVD playback. The black level was important here and I feel it gives the edge over the Sony A10. After setting the detail to -30 I was happy. Anything other than this produced too much grain for me. With the TV set up with Avia I was surprised to see how close the settings were to being right on (other than detail/sharpness). I think I have picture to -6 to -8 but the others are within +2 or -2 of zero.
6. Lastly, this TV has the best screen of any that I’ve seen yet. The light reflections are at a minimum. I am really pleased. I have light that peeks in the front door through the window built in the door. I have it covered slightly but it still lets some through. With the Sony and my older Elite it was easily spotted on the screen but not so with the JVC. This was a pleasant surprise that I did not expect.

So, thank God that I am happy with this TV. I didn’t want to think about having to return it to TV Authority. I bought their extended warranty package for like $329 but it includes 3 years bulb replacement and with the problems I’ve read here I didn’t want to take a chance. Considering the price at their site I was pleased. At this point I’m VERY happy with the 56” JVC for DVD, gaming, SD, and HD. This has been the most well rounded TV that I’ve seen yet in my search for a TV that would be ok for gaming as well as everything else. The only complaint I really have is the lack of inputs. I wish they had one more component or even better, another HDMI input. The future of electronics will have me purchasing some sort of HDMI switch or something I’m sure. OH, one other minor complaint. This set has an even steeper angle to the back of it than the A10 and the omni mount won't work because the legs aren't long enough. Right now I have my center channel speaker in front of the TV (good thing there is room) and I will have to build something or make something bulk up the back of the TV so the mount will work. What is a guy to do?

Thanks Kainan and Stangs55 for posting your experiences.

I travelled a different road but ended up at the same place, I also bought a JVCHD-56G886.

I have an Infocus 4805 DLP projector for DVD and I am very satisfied with it. However with the DLP projector, I have to clean the filters and inspect and clean the mirrors every250 hrs. With a rotating part I do not feel that comfortable about the maintenance aspect of the DLP TV.

In addition, I want a bright picture since our living room has several windows and is kind of bright even with the blinds drawn.

So what I was left with was LCD and LCOS. LCD is positioned by Sony to be the low cost technology. LCD will probaly go the way of the CRT if the pundits are to be believed.

With that in mind, I just want the best picture for my eyes and for my environment.

My finalists are the Sony E60A20 and the JVC 56G886. Frankly, we visited several stores in our area. The JVC impresses us more. YMMV.

What takes us more time to decide was the fact that several people reported light engine failure for the Z series after 3-6 month span. I am hoping this TV will last at least 3-5 years and the G series had all the fixes.

Of course there is also the fact that JVC is coming out momentarily with the new 1080P series and Sony SXRD is also hitting the stores, abeit at a higher costs.

The rationale (1. Fundamental reasons; the basis. 2. An exposition of principles or reasons.) for me to go with the series G TV was that I do not have to have the best and the latest. I have been wanting a dual core AMD X2 upgrade but the price is not to my liking in addition, my Venice AMD is providing all the speed and power I need at the moment. So may be next year then!!!

So with that leap of faith we jumped the gun and ordered the JVC.



:)

Stang, DEFINITELY look into the Oppo Digital dvd upconverting dvd player. It's at your price point and bests many other players costing much more.

I've heard the Oppo doesn't upconvert via Component, if thats the case, it wont help Stang if he keeps his HD Box on the HDMI.

those were some rave reviews of jvc sets, you MUST try the appleseed dvd.

get the grayscale calibrated, mine was done this weekend and it was worth every penny, the calibrator only adjusted the r g b drives. even after digging the net for days for other peoples r g b drive settings and trying them out the tech still made adjustments but they werent far off from the borrowed settings, i cant remember the settings right now but i will post later, we lost power due to rita tornado :(

i cant remember the settings right now but i will post later, we lost power due to rita tornado :(
Sorry about the power outage bro. Thanks in advance for posting them. Does the TV not reset after the power goes out? That would suck huh?

the settings are stored in the set, i just have no power at home to look at them. i am at work now with power and a/c.

those were some rave reviews of jvc sets, you MUST try the appleseed dvd.

get the grayscale calibrated, mine was done this weekend and it was worth every penny, the calibrator only adjusted the r g b drives. even after digging the net for days for other peoples r g b drive settings and trying them out the tech still made adjustments but they werent far off from the borrowed settings, i cant remember the settings right now but i will post later, we lost power due to rita tornado :(

Yea I would LOVE to know exactly what settings he used. I'm in medical school right now, so I reaaallllly can't afford to pay someone to come out and calibrate it. But I would really appreciate any advice on what could be changed to imporve PQ.

I have a new JVC HD-52G786 TV and having a problem. I have a Samsung upscaling DVD player connected via HDMI to the TV. My old surround sound receiver bit it when I first got my TV and I finally got a replacement... unfortunately it doesn't do DVI/HDMI switching, only component. Anyway, I originally thought that with the DVD player connected to the TV via an HDMI connection, I was hoping that it would pass the digital audio via the Toslink digital audio output from the TV. This was NOT the case... it was outputing the tuner audio. To combat this, I connected the DVD player's coax digital audio output directly to the receiver, leaving the HDMI connection. This "worked", but I realized that the receiver was only outputting stereo PCM digital audio, not Dolby Digital or DTS. I went into the settings of the Samsung and changed the output from PCM to Bitstream. This fixed my audio problem... I now get either DD or DTS (depending on source), but the TV goes through a spell where there is flickering between static and screen resizing before the picture comes up. When the screen does come up, in the top left of the screen it says "HDMI Digital Audio not supported". WTF? I'm guessing that the TV is receiving DD or DTS audio, but can only "decode" PCM. Since I no longer need to get digital audio via HDMI, how do I tell the TV to ignore the digital audio? The BEST fix for me would obvioulsy be for the TV to PASS the digital bitstream coming from the HDMI to the toslink connector. Is there anyway to accomplish this?

In addition, I want a bright picture since our living room has several windows and is kind of bright even with the blinds drawn.


Brightness is an understatement for this TV. I'm amazed this thing has the black level that it does considering the brightness. When testing with Avia on the brightness and contrast I thought I was looking into the sun when I turned it up to see just how bright it would get. You can tan in front of this thing. I'm guessing the DLPs are the same way.

Re: Samsung problem
Oh yes, the Samsung green flash curse! There are threads on this forum that have documented numerous complaints about the Samsungs causing green flashing screens, and "not supported" messages. This happens when you use HDMI and Bitstream. Apparently there is no solution.
With my 56G, I use the Samsung 941 which had the same problem, so now I just use upconverted component (using the hack).
esteps

When I calibrated my set with Avia recently, I had to set brightness to -16 according to the Avia settings. When I then played a DVD, it looked excellent, although I didn't watch a variety of scenes to check black levels since I normally watch DVD's with a front projection system. When I switched inputs and watched both SD and HD over the weekend, I found that the -16 brightness setting was crushing the blacks something awful. So I have the settings for brightness when using the other inputs at anywhere from 0 to +3, and it looks just fine. Has anybody else experienced this?

smitty, white level adjustment on these displays is tricky, it will take a few runs with avia and some viewing time to approach a happy medium, with dve and avia i gety around the same values for brightness and picture but still find that i need to back off the picture setting some more, my current brightness is -20 picture -15 and things look great, white crush is more of an issue than black crush and if not adjusted it will affect the black level. these controls are very closely related on dila sets and projectors.

Can anyone that's seen the all black vs the silver model comment on which they prefer and why? I'm leaning towards the silver/black vs the all black. From the online pictures I'm not sure I care for the look of the all black.

Comments?

Thanks!

bradesp

Can anyone that's seen the all black vs the silver model comment on which they prefer and why? I'm leaning towards the silver/black vs the all black. From the online pictures I'm not sure I care for the look of the all black.

Comments?

Thanks!

bradesp

I debated as well, especially b/c my Athena speakers are black/silver. However, I ended up going with the all black to keep my eyes from being as distracted. In theory, I felt like it would frame the picture better w/an all black border. In the end though, this probably doesn't matter. Get whichever one looks better to you.

Re: Samsung problem
Oh yes, the Samsung green flash curse! There are threads on this forum that have documented numerous complaints about the Samsungs causing green flashing screens, and "not supported" messages. This happens when you use HDMI and Bitstream. Apparently there is no solution.
With my 56G, I use the Samsung 941 which had the same problem, so now I just use upconverted component (using the hack).
esteps

Are you talking of the HDCP-free hack? Will it output 720P via component? If so, I may do that. I may then decide to connect the my Motorola 6412's (Comcast box) DVI output to the HDMI input instead. I currently have it plugged into one of the two component inputs on my receiver. If it will only output 480P, I may as well return the unit, as my older DVD player can do that and is a 5-disc changer.

Just a follow-up to my original post a week or so ago - I read somewhere in the thread that a tech suggested allowing the set to "break in" for about 100 hours. I've noticed that most of the issues I indicated in the first week or so have for the most part gone away (???).

I didn't really do anything different, and don't think my eyes are necessarily adjusting - but am pleased to say the picture just looks so much better. My father in-law was over yesterday after dropping $6k on a plasma - he's taking it back in favor of the JVC ILA.

after mine broke in it was most improved as well , i put more than a hundred hours on it the first week.

Yes, it is the HDCP hack, and it will output 720P or 1080i via component--your choice.
esteps

Are you talking of the HDCP-free hack? Will it output 720P via component? If so, I may do that. I may then decide to connect the my Motorola 6412's (Comcast box) DVI output to the HDMI input instead. I currently have it plugged into one of the two component inputs on my receiver. If it will only output 480P, I may as well return the unit, as my older DVD player can do that and is a 5-disc changer.

Brad,

I went with the silver black (52g886) for the same reason stangs went with all black. It just looked better with my stand and speakers. Go see it in person, it looks better (to me) than the internet pics.

First I don't want to start any rumors. My post is a question, I have never heard of an audio sync issue with the JVCs.

I know this is an owners thread, but any help would be appreciated.

I am struggling with my new Samsung and am planning on swapping it for a JVC.

Can anyone please verify that there are no audio sync issues running 480i to the TV with digital audio going to an external AV Receiver?

I have even seen audio sync issues with my DVD component with audio going to a separate receiver.

Sat SVid (480i)-->JVC
Audio (digital)-->surround sound reciever.

DVD Component 480p-->JVC
Audio (digital)-->surround sound receiver.

Thanks,
Bob

First I don't want to start any rumors. My post is a question, I have never heard of an audio sync issue with the JVCs.

I know this is an owners thread, but any help would be appreciated.

I am struggling with my new Samsung and am planning on swapping it for a JVC.

Can anyone please verify that there are no audio sync issues running 480i to the TV with digital audio going to an external AV Receiver?

I have even seen audio sync issues with my DVD component with audio going to a separate receiver.

Sat SVid (480i)-->JVC
Audio (digital)-->surround sound reciever.

DVD Component 480p-->JVC
Audio (digital)-->surround sound receiver.

Thanks,
Bob


None here.

I'm running HDMI from my Time Warner HD cable box -> TV. And a Digital Coaxial Audio Cable from the Cable Box -> Denon AVR-2105 reciever and I have absolutely NO lag. This was actually one of the very first things I checked when I hooked everything up b/c I expected that a slight lag would exist....but none did. Tonight, however, I found that the Tonight Show w/Jay Leno was just slightly off w/lip sync...I immediatly started to worry. So I switched to EVERY other HD channel I could find and carefully scruitinized the audio/video sync. Again, there was NO lag found on ANY other channel. I came to the conclusion that the problem didn't lie in my setup, but it was being sent to me this way.

hope this helps and good luck in your decision.

so last week when i got my 56" i was in heaven, but as i tweak the tv and get it looking better....

last nite i notice a green haze on the bottem right hand corner, only really shows up on a white image....like an old crt set with a speaker to close...i know thats not whats happening but that is what it looks like...

do u think i could have a faulty set? or is this inherent to all sets?

BALDheadedGRL- That's color fringing. If it bothers you, it will require a light engine replacement. If you decide you can't live with it, take some snap shots of the tv on, with no input (should be a light grey screen) that should show the fringing. Then, call JVC and tell them your set is developing color fringing in the corners, they'll ask you to email photos, and then arrange for a 30 minute tech visits swap out of light engines.

Do you have the Z series or the G series? I don't think I've read about this on the G series.

HD567BP6

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7276985&type=product&productCategoryId=pcmcat31800050029&id=1118839101223

u tell me?

I haven't seen any green haze. It could be something faulty with the TV.


NO audio sync problems here and I have been hard pressed to find anyone with a JVC reporting audio sync issues.

Annother newbie signing in..

I picked up my 52G786 a few weeks ago, and while hooking everything up, I tested out my HTPC hooked up via a DVI->HDMI cable. Everything looked ok, and even came up correct when I first plugged it in. I didn't have time to play around with the settings to really perfect the image, but the TV had no problems displaying an image.

A week later, after I hooked up my HD cable, and DVD player via component inputs, I decided to swap the HD cable over to the DVI->HDMI cable to make room for my XBox. At that point, I didn't get any picture, so assumed that the DVI out on the cable box wasn't turned on (Time Warner Cable, Raleigh NC, SA 8250HD). When I plugged it back into the HTPC I got the same blank screen. I know the TV is detecting a signal, since when I connect the cable to either the HD Cable box, or the HTPC (running an NVidia FX 5600), the screen goes from a black 4:3 with gray bars, to a full 16:9 black screen. The video card still recognizes the display, and I've even tried resetting the drivers and reinstalling the card, but I can only get a brief flash of color (not even an image) when I first plug the cable in.

Unfortunately, I don't have any other HDMI or DVI sources to verify it's the TV, and even plugging the PC in via the VGA connection doesn't work (are these two inputs related?). I verified that I'm using the right settings for VGA (1024x768, 60Hz). I wonder if the HDMI/vga inputs have gone out and I should call in the service tech for help. Given that the manual states that the HDMI input isn't for displaying a PC, I thought I'd ask here before going that route.

I looked in the status page in the service menu, and it stated DVI OK, and HDMI NG1. Do these mean anything? The HDMI setting doesn't change reguardless of what I have plugged in or even if there's nothing plugged in. I'm going to borrow a working cable in the next couple of days to verify it's not a simple cable issue.

One more thing. If I have the HDMI cable plugged in, my Video 1 input has two faint bars, one green and one pink scroll up the screen.

u are putting ure tv on digital input with the remote right?
the remote is kinda of lousy when it comes to changing inputs...

press input then up or down to cycle through ure inputs....

this is why i went the Component route with my receiver....if the remote had discrete video commands i would program my universals macros but cant do that with out the source...

I asked this before, but got no response. Is anyone aware if JVC is planning a "G Series" model for the 61" size? I find it odd that they've move all the current models (except the 61") to the G Series.

Thanks!
bradesp

HD567BP6

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7276985&type=product&productCategoryId=pcmcat31800050029&id=1118839101223

u tell me?


K, it's the new sets. I keep forgetting that not all of the new models are G series, the bigger ones are still a Z. I'd call JVC and tell them about your color fringing.

Yes I am.

From what I've read, the TV supports discrete input commands, but the remote doesn't have the buttons for them.

u are putting ure tv on digital input with the remote right?
the remote is kinda of lousy when it comes to changing inputs...

press input then up or down to cycle through ure inputs....

this is why i went the Component route with my receiver....if the remote had discrete video commands i would program my universals macros but cant do that with out the source...

My Harmony 880 is programed to select any of the TVs inputs without cycling through them. Unfortunately, if you must learn from the JVC remote you might have a little problem.

The image on my 56g is significantly better at home using HDMI from a TWC SA8300HD STB than it was at Best Buy using component cables on the inhouse feed. Soooooo much better.

Gulley -

What about SD from TWC on your set?
JD

Hi All,

I was just wondering if anyone knew any inside information about when the new JVC 1080p sets would be actualy be available for purchase. I would have thought that JVC would want to get them out slightly before Sony did, or at least at the same time.

I haven't heard any word as to actual expected dates. Do the new model JVCs typically just start appearing in stores? Or is there all the fanfare and rampant speculation I've seen prior to the release of new Samsungs and Sonys?

Gulley -

What about SD from TWC on your set?
JD
Hmmm...it's hard for me to respond. I avoid watching SD. It doesn't look good. However, I really don't think SD looks good on any 56 inch HD set. I stick with HD because it can look phenomenal. Even on a 32inch CRT I saw MPEG artifacts sometimes from compression that could make it look bad on TWC. Basically SD does not look good but I think the problem is the source.

bradesp:

The 61Z786 & 61Z886 ARE the so-called "G" series. The electronics are the same as the "G" series. "Z" & "G" refer to the cabinet. I think the "Z" bezel is a little narrower.

We really should be referring to the x75 series and x86 series, not the Z and G series. Darn you, Kid Red! ;)

These 720p sets will probably be phased out in favor of the "FH" 1080p models that are coming soon. There isn't likely to be any more "G" or "Z" series models released.

so last week when i got my 56" i was in heaven, but as i tweak the tv and get it looking better....

last nite i notice a green haze on the bottem right hand corner, only really shows up on a white image....like an old crt set with a speaker to close...i know thats not whats happening but that is what it looks like...

do u think i could have a faulty set? or is this inherent to all sets?I went through this debate a month ago. I have found out that all the sets do that. (white background green/yellow lower right corner, and actually, a redish lower left corner, though less pronounced than the yellow/green) I use color temp high to reduce it somewhat, and my R G B settings in the service menu were off from the factory too. They were about 113 red, 128 green, 113 blue. Now I have them at about 114 red, 122 green 121 blue. It's still there but alot less noticable. I've just come to accept it... (heh, my old TV, a 32" crt, used to get bad yellow and red splotches that burned in when bright scenes were displayed for more than a couple of minutes, but they went away...I'm just used to bad whites. :( ) Look for dates about late August in this very thread for my older posts.

EDIT: if you watch with your eyes lower than the center of the screen you can see this effect, if you move your eyes up the screen, it goes away....I mean your eye level. (my eyes are only a little above the bottom of the screen when I'm viewing.)

EDIT 2: Read from my post on this page and over the next few pages...Green Spot Discussion (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=528179&page=44&pp=30)

Page 45 really has some good stuff on this subject....

Yes I am.

From what I've read, the TV supports discrete input commands, but the remote doesn't have the buttons for them.

I was just at sears and the remote for the older model (575?) had all of the inputs separated out on the remote. I walked it over to the newer model TV and sure enough the inputs could be selected using the older model remote without scrolling through them.

Now to get my hands on an older models remote....

Bob

Is it worth getting the 57 series vs the newer 7/88X series.

I know that there were some problems early on in the 57 series, but
were they corrected later on ?

There is a 4-500 price difference.

Thanks in advance.

i got a 575 for 2100 had a engine swap and would do it again in a sec, this sucker is bad(in a good way) microdisplays all have issues, pick your poison....

Sorry if this is redundant but I am very new to this. Just received the 52g and love it (wanted the 56 but is on back order and caved in)
I am confused over the settings of color, tint, brightness, etc. I have seen in this thread some extreme differences. What is recommended? Can't afford right now to have calibrated. So any advice is appreciated.

I went through this debate a month ago. I have found out that all the sets do that. (white background green/yellow lower right corner, and actually, a redish lower left corner, though less pronounced than the yellow/green) I use color temp high to reduce it somewhat, and my R G B settings in the service menu were off from the factory too. They were about 113 red, 128 green, 113 blue. Now I have them at about 114 red, 122 green 121 blue. It's still there but alot less noticable. I've just come to accept it... (heh, my old TV, a 32" crt, used to get bad yellow and red splotches that burned in when bright scenes were displayed for more than a couple of minutes, but they went away...I'm just used to bad whites. :( ) Look for dates about late August in this very thread for my older posts.

EDIT: if you watch with your eyes lower than the center of the screen you can see this effect, if you move your eyes up the screen, it goes away....I mean your eye level. (my eyes are only a little above the bottom of the screen when I'm viewing.)

EDIT 2: Read from my post on this page and over the next few pages...Green Spot Discussion (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=528179&page=44&pp=30)

Page 45 really has some good stuff on this subject....


NO! The color fringing is not acceptable! If you put on a whiote background the picture may decrease slightly in brightness towards the corners, but there should be no color. If there is, CALL JVC because you need a light engine replacement. I had mine replaced 3 times then was upgraded to a newer set. JVC wants you to be happy and told me directly 'color in the corners is not acceptable'. So call JVC and get your set fixed now!

navychop- My bad. I am so focused on the 52" that I keep forgetting they stayed Z on the bigger newer series. Not sure why they didn't just go G on all the new ones??

lanb- If you don't need the tuner and HDMI, black cabinet then the rest of the changes are subtle. It's up to you for great deal, or latest tech.

so u think i should take it back to "test buy" and get a different model or just have jvc come out? I havent had it for a week, so it wont be a problem returning it, hopefully they have another in stock...and if they dont ill call jvc and have them come out...

if it was easy to return for another i might try that, then go jvc, they will fix it right

I was just at sears and the remote for the older model (575?) had all of the inputs separated out on the remote. I walked it over to the newer model TV and sure enough the inputs could be selected using the older model remote without scrolling through them.

Now to get my hands on an older models remote....

Bob

I think I found the part number: RM-C15G-1H

A froogle search comes up with partstore,com and jvcservice,com as carrying it for $55.. I think a Harmony would be more cost effective.. ;)

remotes,com has it for $64, but has a better picture. It has 4 video input buttons and a digital-in button.

I think I found the part number: RM-C15G-1H

A froogle search comes up with partstore,com and jvcservice,com as carrying it for $55.. I think a Harmony would be more cost effective.. ;)

remotes,com has it for $64, but has a better picture. It has 4 video input buttons and a digital-in button. The Harmony 880 mentioned previously seems to cost in excess of $200. Is there another Harmony remote that works with the JVC inputs? Frankly, this is the one feature of the JVC set that bugs me, and I really like to find a way to be able to avoid cycling through inputs.

The Harmony 880 mentioned previously seems to cost in excess of $200. Is there another Harmony remote that works with the JVC inputs? Frankly, this is the one feature of the JVC set that bugs me, and I really like to find a way to be able to avoid cycling through inputs.

I wonder if the Harmony 520 would work (available for $68 from buy,com)). Seems to have the same capabilities of the 880, but not the fancy color screen.

if u guys have a learning remote, take it to the store and do so there....i plan on taking my sony laptop i mean universal RM-3000 in to learn the digital in - input...the remote has video 1 2 3 but all i need is 1 and digi

I guess the other question I have is: how is it that the Harmony remote is able to directly select the input on the JVC? Is it the case that the JVC is one of the sets that the Harmony is preprogrammed to accept once you punch in the appropriate code? And once you have the Harmony working with the JVC, does it make sense that you could then have your learning remote (I have an MX-500 for example) learn from the Harmony?

if u guys have a learning remote, take it to the store and do so there....i plan on taking my sony laptop i mean universal RM-3000 in to learn the digital in - input...the remote has video 1 2 3 but all i need is 1 and digi
That's really a great idea! The only issue may be finding a store that has one of the older sets. Does anybody know who typically carries them still?

From what I can determine, all JVC TVs support the discrete input buttons, but the new model of remote doesn't have the buttons. So, the TV understands 'change input', 'input 1', 'input 2', 'input 3', 'input 4', 'digital input', but we only have the first button. This is why the old remote works with the new model of TV.

understood, most companies rarely upgrade their IR drivers too keep things universal...

my sister has a harmony i programed on the comp for her, if they dont have a remote locally im going to change her remote so i can learn mine....

or go get ureself a harmony and return it, as much as people advise against that...sometimes u gotta do what u gotta do....plus in the log run you are giving someone else an openbox buy with discount....

"Test Buy - Return the fun"

understood, most companies rarely upgrade their IR drivers too keep things universal...

my sister has a harmony i programed on the comp for her, if they dont have a remote locally im going to change her remote so i can learn mine....

or go get ureself a harmony and return it, as much as people advise against that...sometimes u gotta do what u gotta do....plus in the log run you are giving someone else an openbox buy with discount....

"Test Buy - Return the fun" Or another option is for some enterprising soul who has a remote that can select the inputs to charge a fee for all of us to send them our remotes and have the input button programmed. :)

Can someone start a new thread for the JVC units? I have not been around this site for too long so I hesitate to create a new "JVC-DILA" thread, but it is rather difficult to follow a thread of this size!

Thanks,
Bob

I checked with JVC and they confirmed that the Remocon remote used with the 575 and 585 JVC sets will work with the 61Z7886, and presumably the other new sets as well. I have ordered the unit and will see if it has all the functionality with my learning remote that I need. If it works to my satisfaction, I will consider making it available to others somehow (perhaps locally if others want to stop by my office in Irvine, CA and borrow it, or maybe pursant to some arrangement where we can ship it around that people pay shipping). First, I need to confirm it works ok and all.

I think I found the part number: RM-C15G-1H

A froogle search comes up with partstore,com and jvcservice,com as carrying it for $55.. I think a Harmony would be more cost effective.. ;)

remotes,com has it for $64, but has a better picture. It has 4 video input buttons and a digital-in button.

I am not familiar with the Harmony, but don't you need the original in order to learn the Discretes? I have an MX-500.

Thanks,
Bob

I am not familiar with the Harmony, but don't you need the original in order to learn the Discretes? I have an MX-500.

Thanks,
Bob

No. The harmony (880 at least) is programed by a computer via the harmony website. You hook up the remote to the computer using a USB cable then answer questions on the harmony website. It then programs the remote using a database of codes. For the most part you do not teach the remote - unless the command you are looking for is not in the database. The codes in the harmony database include direct input changes.

Bryan

I am not familiar with the Harmony, but don't you need the original in order to learn the Discretes? I have an MX-500.

Thanks,
Bob
The Harmony (now owned by Logitech (http://www.logitech.com/harmony)) series of remotes has an online database of remote codes. In this case, you can learn remote codes if you have the remote, or download the profile for each of your devices. I haven't used one, but I've used a Pronto Neo, which it's biggest downfall was the feature I'm looking at the Harmony to solve, is statefull macros.

good size thread=good amount of help
what do you need osm3um?
most all of the issues with these sets have been disscussed at some point, just search this thread for your topic.

I have a 2-week old 52G886. I love everything about it, except that the lip sync is off when I use the digital tuner (Comcast cable). Lip sync is perfect on analog cable and on DVDs. The delays aren't present on every show, but they are fairly common. I get delays through the built-in speakers or through the optical jack (connected to my receiver).

In trying to track down the problem, I see three possible sources: (1) a design flaw in the digital tuner, (2) a sample defect in my set, or (3) a problem with the Comcast (San Francisco area) digital signal. Searches on this forum for "+comcast +lip +sync" and "+jvc +lip +sync" produced anecdotes about specific shows on specific networks being out of sync, but nothing that indicates that this is a frequent problem with this TV or with Comcast. At the same time, it seems a bit hard to believe that a sample defect on a digital tuner would leave everything perfect except for the sync.

I wish I could connect another digital TV to the same cable feed to see if the problem is in the source (the most likely culprit in my mind), but I had a hard enough time convincing my wife to buy one new HDTV :->

Any thoughts on what might be going on?

lanb- If you don't need the tuner and HDMI, black cabinet then the rest of the changes are subtle. It's up to you for great deal, or latest tech.


Thanks KidRed.

One other question :)

How would you guys rate the SD on these TVs ?

Good, Better, Best ?

lanb,
i find sd to be quite good on D*, some channels better than others due to compression but after my greyscale cal, and using avia/dve it got better

Thanks KidRed.

One other question :)

How would you guys rate the SD on these TVs ?

Good, Better, Best ?

It's definatly better than good, but it's not the best out there.....so I guess I vote: 'Better'

I wish I could connect another digital TV to the same cable feed to see if the problem is in the source (the most likely culprit in my mind), but I had a hard enough time convincing my wife to buy one new HDTV :->

Get on Comcast's back. Have them loan you a STB and check the shows thru HDMI and component/analog audio and see if you have sync problem. Most likely you will and it could happen anywhere in the distribution chain. Sync gets off due to a number of problems and some receivers now have programmable delay to match up to the display device. If it's processing speed on your end, then the problem won't occur with the STB in downconverted mode but if it's Comcast (which I suspect) you'll have to let their engineers solve the problem at the source.

John

so u think i should take it back to "test buy" and get a different model or just have jvc come out? I havent had it for a week, so it wont be a problem returning it, hopefully they have another in stock...and if they dont ill call jvc and have them come out...


Have JVC come out. It would be one notch for replacement. If you get 3 notches, you get a new set :)

colinv- Where at buy.com is the 520? I'm waiting to get one and didn't se it there.

lanb- I posted some SD pics a page or two back. Nice and clean just a tad soft edged. Very watchable however.

As for inputs/JVC?Harmony remotes, the Harmonies use macros and discrete codes. So hitting TV button will chose the correct input on the JVC and receiver settings etc. Then, hitting DVD will chose another input on the JVC, receiver and DVD settings, etc. They are great remotes.

I have a 2-week old 52G886. I love everything about it, except that the lip sync is off when I use the digital tuner (Comcast cable). Lip sync is perfect on analog cable and on DVDs. The delays aren't present on every show, but they are fairly common. I get delays through the built-in speakers or through the optical jack (connected to my receiver).

In trying to track down the problem, I see three possible sources: (1) a design flaw in the digital tuner, (2) a sample defect in my set, or (3) a problem with the Comcast (San Francisco area) digital signal. Searches on this forum for "+comcast +lip +sync" and "+jvc +lip +sync" produced anecdotes about specific shows on specific networks being out of sync, but nothing that indicates that this is a frequent problem with this TV or with Comcast. At the same time, it seems a bit hard to believe that a sample defect on a digital tuner would leave everything perfect except for the sync.

I wish I could connect another digital TV to the same cable feed to see if the problem is in the source (the most likely culprit in my mind), but I had a hard enough time convincing my wife to buy one new HDTV :->

Any thoughts on what might be going on?

I believe it's the source. I have not experienced this issue. I use the HD box from Comcast. Seattle area. Get a new box. Hope it is correctable, otherwise, it would drive me insane <sigh>. Good luck!

Is it possible that there is a delay that your receiver is processing. Some receivers do have an adjustable delay, I believe. Otherwise it's the cable box or the source, but it's very, very unlikely it's your D-ila. What kind of receiver are you using?

sometimes my audio gets out of sync depending on the order my equipment turns on...

Do u keep ure STB on all the time....some people have the tendancy to turn it off witch is totally unessiccary

turn ure tv on, then cycle the power on ure STB, if that doest fix it, try using a coax cable as opposed to optical and vice versa.....

lanb

I am very happy with SD on my JVC 61Z786- when fed a good SD signal. That was a major factor in deciding to buy this TV. When fed a poor signal, it can really show up the flaws. If the SD picture is too bad, you can always use "twin" mode. This is a side by side picture. The SD program would be in one window, an unused input in the other. The viewed program would be smaller, but the smaller size will hide the flaws. I've only tried this with VHS recorded in EP mode- and even then I decided that a full size image (equivalent to a 50" 4:3) was better, even with the flaws.

Some satellite channels are more highly compressed than others, and things we never saw at 36" are sometimes visible at 61". But size has a quality all it's own. And more of what we watch is in HD, and that portion will only grow.

colinv- Where at buy.com is the 520? I'm waiting to get one and didn't se it there.


I found it here (http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=201967890&SearchEngine=Froogle&SearchTerm=201967890&Type=PE&Category=Comp&Gad=0&dcaid=17379) but it says it's currently unavailable. Judging from the Logitech website, it's probably not made anymore, so either find it used or get one of the newer models..

I need some enlightenment. I thought I had read here some while back about being able to receive HD channels by cable without renting the cablecard, if you want non-scrambled non-premium channels. I have a new 61z786 and I tried doing a digital cable channel search. It turned up about a half-dozen channels like Starz, ESPN WE, Sportsman Channel that didn't look any better than the analog channels I already get. They certainly weren't HD and they weren't widescreen. But it didn't find any HD channels. I know that my local cable company is now providing the networks and a few other channels HD.

BTW, I don't have a cable box, and I don't want one. I currently have "premium" service, which is analog channels 2-100. I don't really want any of the regular digital channels that you need a cablebox for, nor do I want to pay for digital service unless I have to to get HD channels.

Is what I'm trying to do possible? How exactly do I set up and search for cable HD channels?

Is it possible that there is a delay that your receiver is processing.

Do u keep ure STB on all the time....some people have the tendancy to turn it off witch is totally unessiccary

I'm plugging the Comcast cable directly into my 52G886 (no STB), and the delay is there on the TV speakers (no receiver).

I think I'll try johnw248's suggestion of borrowing a STB from Comcast temporarily.

Thanks for the replies.

good size thread=good amount of help
what do you need osm3um?
most all of the issues with these sets have been disscussed at some point, just search this thread for your topic.

It would just be nice to have a thread for JVC Tweaks, JVC remotes, JVC screen issues etc instead of wading through the whole thing.

Bob

Follow the instructions in the manual to connect directly to set. It was pretty easy but I got no HD channels. In some areas, the HD channels are scrambled. I believe they are here, though the rep on the phone wasn't quite sure. I'm fairly confident that Comcast is not giving cablecards without monthly fees out of the kindness of their hearts (no fees here but charge $11 for install).

I need some enlightenment. I thought I had read here some while back about being able to receive HD channels by cable without renting the cablecard, if you want non-scrambled non-premium channels. I have a new 61z786 and I tried doing a digital cable channel search. It turned up about a half-dozen channels like Starz, ESPN WE, Sportsman Channel that didn't look any better than the analog channels I already get. They certainly weren't HD and they weren't widescreen. But it didn't find any HD channels. I know that my local cable company is now providing the networks and a few other channels HD.

BTW, I don't have a cable box, and I don't want one. I currently have "premium" service, which is analog channels 2-100. I don't really want any of the regular digital channels that you need a cablebox for, nor do I want to pay for digital service unless I have to to get HD channels.

Is what I'm trying to do possible? How exactly do I set up and search for cable HD channels?

You'll need a cable box or cablecard to get digital cahnnels. You'll need a cable box or cablecard to get cable HD channels. You'll need an antenna to get local HD channels.

Osm3um
Some of us like the long thread. One place to look. Easier to search one thread, rather than several.

Does anyone know how to get the digital optical output to work? I can't seem to get sound from mine.

In either of these situations:
HD Cable Box -> HDMI -> TV -> Toslink Optical Cable -> Reciever
Xbox -> RCA Analog Audio -> TV -> Toslink Optical Cable -> Reciever
I do not get any sound from the reciever. If I turn on the TV's speaker, sound comes out just fine. Do I have to do something or set someting so that my Optical Output on the TV works? I've searched the menu, but nothing comes up.

And yes, I know it's not the reciever, b/c I can use the exact same cable to connect my xbox to the same reciever port and I get excellent sound.

http://www.avguide.com/servlet/download/2310.pdf?download=yes

I have a few questions from this review of the JVC HD-52G786 from AV Guide.

When you first turn the 52G786 on, you'll notice that it takes awhile to come up, and even after a picture is displayed the colors are all wrong until the set warms up completely (which takes as long as 10 minutes).

Is this true, 10 minutes to warm up? Are LCD and DLP like that?


DVD viewing was a mixed bag. While I was able to get a good overall picture, I couldn't help noticing some problems, especially if I watched upclose. DYNAMIC and STANDARD MODES were absolutely unacceptable. Both showed severe video noise, artifacts, and edge enhancement with DVDs. THEATER MODE (using the THEATER PRO button) was far freer from noise; still, getting a reasonably smooth, clean picture required dropping DETAIL to minimum. Even set this way (and with either a 480i or 480p source), there was subtle intermittent video noise as objects started or stopped moving.

Does anyone have thoughts on this?

Thanks again for everyone's help!

progers,

I'm not sure what condition that reviewed set was on, but it sounds like something was wrong. The set takes some time to power up that is true, but we are talking under 30 seconds before things are ready to go. I have no idea what he is talking about with his 10 minute quote.

DVDs look beautiful on this set, albeit you do have to take the sharpness control all the way down to eliminate noise. Keep in mind this doesn't take away detail as I have confirmed with appropriate patterns, it just removes noise (false detail). I do disable just about every single "picture enhancing" feature on this set, still I haven't seen the behavior he describes.

progers,

I'm not sure what condition that reviewed set was on, but it sounds like something was wrong. The set takes some time to power up that is true, but we are talking under 30 seconds before things are ready to go. I have no idea what he is talking about with his 10 minute quote.

DVDs look beautiful on this set, albeit you do have to take the sharpness control all the way down to eliminate noise. Keep in mind this doesn't take away detail as I have confirmed with appropriate patterns, it just removes noise (false detail). I do disable just about every single "picture enhancing" feature on this set, still I haven't seen the behavior he describes.

I've found the exact patter to be true. I'm not really worried about turning down the detail. I've turned the detail down as far as it would go on every HDTV I've had. The image looks sharp at -30 just as the Sony A10 looked sharp at -30 and my Pioneer Elite at -30. The time to cut on is about the same as the Sony A10 (10 to 30 seconds) and the colors do seem to warm up for an extra minute or two but not 10 minutes. Maybe 2 minutes tops and more likely just another 30 seconds. I found the same to be true with the LCDs. You might see the image but it warms up into the great picture it was designed to produce.

Does anyone know how to get the digital optical output to work? I can't seem to get sound from mine.

In either of these situations:
HD Cable Box -> HDMI -> TV -> Toslink Optical Cable -> Reciever
Xbox -> RCA Analog Audio -> TV -> Toslink Optical Cable -> Reciever
I do not get any sound from the reciever. If I turn on the TV's speaker, sound comes out just fine. Do I have to do something or set someting so that my Optical Output on the TV works? I've searched the menu, but nothing comes up.

And yes, I know it's not the reciever, b/c I can use the exact same cable to connect my xbox to the same reciever port and I get excellent sound.

Have you tried-

HD STB--HDMI--TV
|
TOS
|
receiver

The STB would be responsible for the sound, not your TV since you have a receiver. So, HDMI to your TV and TOS to your receiver from the STB. Your TV is just a monitor, your receiver should send everything out, not the TV.

Have you tried-

HD STB--HDMI--TV
|
TOS
|
receiver

The STB would be responsible for the sound, not your TV since you have a receiver. So, HDMI to your TV and TOS to your receiver from the STB. Your TV is just a monitor, your receiver should send everything out, not the TV.

Yes I have, and it works wonderfully. However, I'm trying to do it the previous way I mentioned b/c the digital audio inputs are limited on my reciever. I also consistently get slight lip sync issues when watching Jay Leno (and maybe 1% of the other HD shows out there). I'm 95% positive that this is a problem on the broadcast end...but setting up my output from the TV would let me know for sure. Thanks

Yes I have, and it works wonderfully. However, I'm trying to do it the previous way I mentioned b/c the digital audio inputs are limited on my reciever. I also consistently get slight lip sync issues when watching Jay Leno (and maybe 1% of the other HD shows out there). I'm 95% positive that this is a problem on the broadcast end...but setting up my output from the TV would let me know for sure. Thanks

Have you tried it without your receiver in the mix at all? There are some receivers that have a delay but I'm sure you've checked. Is the delay constant or just one show or just one channel? Have you changed channel and then back to see if it's fixed? I've never heard of a delay with the JVCs, so I'm mostly just throwing out ideas.

Have you tried it without your receiver in the mix at all? There are some receivers that have a delay but I'm sure you've checked. Is the delay constant or just one show or just one channel? Have you changed channel and then back to see if it's fixed? I've never heard of a delay with the JVCs, so I'm mostly just throwing out ideas.

It's only a couple shows. Most notably though is the Tonight Show with Jay Leno. I agree that it's probably not the TV, especially b/c all the other HD channels are almost always fine.

First of all I would like to thank everyone for there input here at this forum. I have been lurking here for quite awhile and I believe this is my first post.

I recently purchased the JVC 61Z886 and I am not sure how happy I am with this TV. And maybe my issues are not with the TV but with the sources that I am using to display a picture. I am looking for a little assistance or consoling/reassurance that I bought the right TV because I am having a bit of buyer’s remorse now….

When I demo’d this TV I viewed it at a local store with a HD broadcast from Time Warner Cable. The picture was flawless and I was very impressed after comparing this TV to comparable LCD and DLP models. So I decided to purchase this TV from BuyDig for a good price…

I get it delivered hook up my new HR10-250 DirecTivo up via optical cable for audio and HDMI for video sit myself 15 feet away from the screen and I was not blown away like I was when demo’ing the TV at the store... Don’t get me wrong the picture was good, but it wasn’t as good as it was when I demo’s this TV with Time Warner Cable. My issues are that I see pixelization/grain in solid colors and also a little screen door affect during HD football and high motion scenarios. This happens when viewing with 720P and 1080i. I turned the Sharpness down to -30 as others have suggested and this did improve picture quality a little bit, but it still wasn’t as good as the HD Cable Broadcast…

The next question you may ask have I tried a different source… and yes I have tried my DVD player but my DVD player is not Progressive Scan. It’s an older Samsung but has component out and Optical Out that I am using to hook it up with high quality cables. I do not notice grain in solid colors as I do with the HD Tivo, nor the motion screen door affect; however the picture does not seem good enough to me and I have not watched enough DVD’s to know for sure if the screen door and pixelization is happening. But one thing for sure I am not happy with the picture quality.

-----------
Here are my questions…

Does anyone have any experience with using a HR10-250 HD DirecTV Tivo with this TV? Is your experience positive or negative, please explain?

Will a progressive Scan DVD player make a noticeable difference in sharpness and picture quality and limit pixelization? If so, any recommendations on DVD players with Optical Out?

Also I am sitting 15 feet away from the screen, and I have read that others have sat closer with good results so that leads me to believe that there is something going on here or maybe I am just TOO pickey?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide me!!!

J

I recently purchased the JVC 61Z886 and I am not sure how happy I am with this TV. And maybe my issues are not with the TV but with the sources that I am using to display a picture. I am looking for a little assistance or consoling/reassurance that I bought the right TV because I am having a bit of buyer’s remorse now….

I too am having some issues. I have dishnetwork and am expecting some artifacts but it seems the artifacting is worse on this set as compared to the Samsung DLP I had to take back.

More troublesome is the fact that when I run a DVD at 480i (or 480p) I do see some mpeg compression type gradient blocking on solid objects (i.e. a wall behind a person in a movie). One example is "cheaper by the dozen" which my kid loves.

I thought that by running the DVD at 480i that woudl elminate the DVD player as part of the problem am I wrong? (component connection).

Any suggestions? I also have the sharpness down to -30...

Oh yeah, I am about 8ft from the which I am guessing is too close. I have noticed that if I step the side (i.e. 45 degree angle to the screen) I can get back to say about 12ft. Things look much better at that point but I am not sure if that is the angle or the distance that helps. Shame is my room does not allow us to get back much further than that. We will be tryign to set it up in the corner this evening. Keep you posted.

Thanks,
Bob

check out my luck=
hdtivo supposed to be here saturday, the bulb blows on the d-ila 10 minutes ago, my contact at jvc is overnighting the bulb, i hope it gets here tommorrow and not monday, he also wants me to report back on the hdmi hookup and any issues i have. this weekend will be interseting to say the least. home theater rules!

I don't think a progressive DVD player will help- the JVC seems to convert to progressive just fine. I also believe, based on reading this and other forums, that an upconverting player would not be worth the money. JVC does fine there, too.

I recommend using the THX optimizer as a first cal. This is often found in DVDs such as the Star Wars series, under Options. Select the THX logo (it might not be apparent that this is a selectable option). This will run you thru. I've also used DVE. I've tweaked to reduce the "gradient blocking" but I generally only see this on poor signals. Some Dish channels are compressed more than others- Spike seems to be about the worse- watch a DS9. I plan to have it professionally calibrated, perhaps with the filter mod, after I move to a Dish MPEG-4 HD DVR such as the 962. That might be a while.

OTA HD is great. The DVDs I've watched are great. I'm impressed with the quality of most SD- that was a factor in deciding to buy this set. But poor quality SD signals aren't magically improved by the set.

That is what i am experiencing is the "Gradient Blocking" - I am wondering if perhaps there is a better TV that I could have bought for about the 2,500 price range?

-----------
Here are my questions…

Does anyone have any experience with using a HR10-250 HD DirecTV Tivo with this TV? Is your experience positive or negative, please explain?

Will a progressive Scan DVD player make a noticeable difference in sharpness and picture quality and limit pixelization? If so, any recommendations on DVD players with Optical Out?

Also I am sitting 15 feet away from the screen, and I have read that others have sat closer with good results so that leads me to believe that there is something going on here or maybe I am just TOO pickey?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide me!!!

J

Sorry to hear. I have TW and HD is simply stunning. Maybe it's D* I assume you are talking about HD? I know SD on D* is not as good as on cable. Are you just not liking the non HD channels?

Get a new DVD player. The Panasonic s97 or s77, or any Denon is good. HDMI is also good to have.

15' for a 61" sounds fine.

I too am having some issues. I have dishnetwork and am expecting some artifacts but it seems the artifacting is worse on this set as compared to the Samsung DLP I had to take back.

More troublesome is the fact that when I run a DVD at 480i (or 480p) I do see some mpeg compression type gradient blocking on solid objects (i.e. a wall behind a person in a movie). One example is "cheaper by the dozen" which my kid loves.

I thought that by running the DVD at 480i that woudl elminate the DVD player as part of the problem am I wrong? (component connection).

Any suggestions? I also have the sharpness down to -30...

Oh yeah, I am about 8ft from the which I am guessing is too close. I have noticed that if I step the side (i.e. 45 degree angle to the screen) I can get back to say about 12ft. Things look much better at that point but I am not sure if that is the angle or the distance that helps. Shame is my room does not allow us to get back much further than that. We will be tryign to set it up in the corner this evening. Keep you posted.

Thanks,
Bob

I had some artifacts (normal on digital sets) and brightness affects a lot of it. And since I've had my set ISF calibrated, I hardly see any. I see the same artifacts on my 32" Sharp LCD, so it's not the JVC. -30 on the sharpness is correct. HDMI is also sharper, so keep that in mind.

8ft is too close I think but YMMV. I think 10'-11' for the 52" is perfect.

What DVD player do you have? It could be the problem also.

That is what i am experiencing is the "Gradient Blocking" - I am wondering if perhaps there is a better TV that I could have bought for about the 2,500 price range?


All sets will have digital noise. Some sets may do better then others at hiding this flaw. Some DVD players have this flaw and you will see it because of the player. My ISF tech loves the JVC, he researched because I was the first JVC he's done. I don't think you could have made a better purchase. You just need to tweak. Make sure you have a good DVD player. Make sure you have a strong cable signal. Make sure you calibrate the set and follow recommendations. There are too many totally satisfied owners for you not to end up like one of us :)

Can you post your settings and equipment? Maybe we can see if they are pronouncing the issue.

Sorry to hear. I have TW and HD is simply stunning. Maybe it's D* I assume you are talking about HD? I know SD on D* is not as good as on cable. Are you just not liking the non HD channels?

Get a new DVD player. The Panasonic s97 or s77, or any Denon is good. HDMI is also good to have.

15' for a 61" sounds fine.


Yes I have DirecTV and I am referring to HD. I expect a low quality Picture on SD and am "ok" with it i guess.... but am seeing "Gradient Blocking" on HD .. i am a perfectionist so i dont want to see that stuff... The reciever I have for HD is the HR10-250 HD DireTV Tivo. When i previewed this TV it had Cable HD and it was flawless, so I am thinking that its the TiVo.

All sets will have digital noise. Some sets may do better then others at hiding this flaw. Some DVD players have this flaw and you will see it because of the player. My ISF tech loves the JVC, he researched because I was the first JVC he's done. I don't think you could have made a better purchase. You just need to tweak. Make sure you have a good DVD player. Make sure you have a strong cable signal. Make sure you calibrate the set and follow recommendations. There are too many totally satisfied owners for you not to end up like one of us :)

Can you post your settings and equipment? Maybe we can see if they are pronouncing the issue.


I will my post my exact set up when I get home 2night... Thanks!!!!!!!

terminaldawn,

I have the 56 model with the HR10-250 Tivo from DTV via HDMI. I'm gathering all the data from my calibration session to post it for everyone to review and ask questions, but in the meantime here are my viewing settings (minus the gray scale mods):

> Set to Theater Pro
> Ensure LOW color temperature is in use
> Turn off all picture enhancing features except dynamic gamma (more on that later)
> Set the picture controls to -15
> Set the sharpness controls to -25 (or 30 if you like)
> All other controls at zero/middle

For HD from the tivo I leave it on 1080i. For Sd from the Tivo I leave it on 480i. Both via HDMI. I've noticed that for casual viewing, the Dynaminc Gamma helps considerably with dark scenes. In certain VERY dark scnes it adds some noise but in 95% of the time it helps. I see ZERO artifacts on DVD other than those detailed in the last paragraph below. If you see macroblocking on DVD, it's in the source. With these settings I get very nice HD and SD picture quality, but I sometimes switch to cable for SD, I'll take some analog noise over macro blocking and compression any day.

The two areas this set should receive an immediate firmware updates from JVC (hint, hint) are in color banding, picture noise on low level scenes and a CUE-like artifact on intense red areas.

:confused: I understand that in general the G models are the newer models and the Z models are the older models. However, the specs for the 61 inch Z model seem to be the same as the 52/56 G models other than size. The MSRP for the 52/56 G models is a lot higher than the 61Z. TVA sells the 61" for just $100 more than the 56".

Is there a "generation" difference between the 61"Z and the 56"G?

If so, I'd most likely get the 56". OTOH, if they are essentially the same generation, then I would opt for the larger set.

I noticed that Costco has a bit of a disclaimer on their websight that manufacturer warrantees may not be applicable since they are not an "Authorized" dealer.

Has anyone purchased a JVC from Costo and had trouble with JVC warrented service?

I finally picked up my 56G786 last weekend. (The 'G' is this year's model - for gennessa processing).

Have it hooked up via HDMI to a D* HR10 and an HD Antenna. Didn't go with the D* with Tivo - been a Replay TV user for a long time. Still have to try and work that into the system.

So far I am thrilled wtih the 56G. Tweaked a little with the THX disc. I have all processing turned on - picture is better, at least for me. SD is overall good - depends on the channel. TCM, which we watch a lot is OK. National Geographic is great. Local HD through the antenna is fantastic, as are the D* HD channels, especially Discovery HD Theater.

DVD's from a Denon (component connectons) are great, even one such as Ice Age, transferred to DVD from the Replay recording.

I find that the blacks are actually very good since THX tune. Watching I, Robot, or MIB the blacks have good detail in light, and are just black in shadow. Casablanca on DVD looked very good, and Phantom of the Opera was outstanding.

The free stand (From BB) is OK. After reading earlier posts about the stand, I was very careful assembling. Found that the screws that hold the front legs are the problem in most cases. The screws on the very front on both sides are too close to the edge of the upright, and will split the particle board.

Overall, I love the set. Can't wait to watch some HD football this weekend.
:D

Is there a "generation" difference between the 61"Z and the 56"G?

If so, I'd most likely get the 56". OTOH, if they are essentially the same generation, then I would opt for the larger set.

Yes they are the same generation, for some reason JVC did not change the
alphabet for their newer 61".

The older 61" are 61Z575 & 61Z585 I believe which are at the same price point
of the newer 56Gs if u can find one.

So I decided to purchase this TV from BuyDig for a good price…

J

Sorry, I can't help u with your PQ questions but i have a question for you.

How was the service from buydig ? Did they include the free stand in the
price of the tv they quote on their website ?

Yes they are the same generation, for some reason JVC did not change the
alphabet for their newer 61".

The older 61" are 61Z575 & 61Z585 I believe which are at the same price point
of the newer 56Gs if u can find one.

Thanks lanb. That is what I thought, but then I'm easily confused. :confused:

I went out again to day to look at these things in the store. BB sales folks are generally clueless, at least at the store near me. The Magnolia folks are a bit better, but they don't carry the JVC. From talking to the BB folks, they don't stock anything in store, but order for each sale. The sales person wasn't even aware of the 61" JVC. :(

I finally picked up my 56G786 last weekend. (The 'G' is this year's model - for gennessa processing).
--snip--
So far I am thrilled wtih the 56G. Tweaked a little with the THX disc.
--snip--
The free stand (From BB) is OK. :D

Glad you like it Desert, I'm considering it or the 61". How was BB to work with? Can you PM me and let me know what you ended up paying at BB for the 56"?

LMDA,

thanks for the post. Tried those settings and HD movies look very nice. Still watching some sports on standard for a more "live" look (signal permitting). Two weeks and still fiddling with settings.

What're others settings at?

Chaz

Glad you like it Desert, I'm considering it or the 61". How was BB to work with? Can you PM me and let me know what you ended up paying at BB for the 56"?

Well, I can relate to this as we just made a trip to Brick and Mortar land tonight to buy our 56" JVC. A couple of things surprised me. The model number on my reciept shows HD56G786/7B and not HD567BP6 as listed on the web site and on their own floor display.

I figured that they wouldn't have one in stock so I was consigned to the fact that it probably wouldn't be delivered until mid week or even later. I was surprised when they told us it would be delivered this Sunday, Oct 2nd. Sunday? I had no idea that they delivered on Sundays. Time will tell if this is true -- but it is printed on the receipt.

Everyone was nice enough, esp. for a busy Friday night. The first guy who helped us was new so we got passed to the manager of the dept. to do the actual purchase. I anticipated a hard pitch for monster cables and nuclear powered back ups but again was surprised when he just asked in passing if we wanted anything else.

All in all it was fairly pleasant and painless. The good thing is that I only have a day to fret over it if things go as planned. Gives me time to go down and swap for the cable co's HD DVR and buy some more component and TOS link cables. Someting without a monsterous price. lol. I figure to try the components first before venturing into HDMI territory, which sounds REALLY scary.

-bruce
HB Neophyte

I don't think a progressive DVD player will help- the JVC seems to convert to progressive just fine. I also believe, based on reading this and other forums, that an upconverting player would not be worth the money. JVC does fine there, too.

I recommend using the THX optimizer as a first cal. This is often found in DVDs such as the Star Wars series, under Options. Select the THX logo (it might not be apparent that this is a selectable option). This will run you thru. I've also used DVE. I've tweaked to reduce the "gradient blocking" but I generally only see this on poor signals. Some Dish channels are compressed more than others- Spike seems to be about the worse- watch a DS9. I plan to have it professionally calibrated, perhaps with the filter mod, after I move to a Dish MPEG-4 HD DVR such as the 962. That might be a while.

OTA HD is great. The DVDs I've watched are great. I'm impressed with the quality of most SD- that was a factor in deciding to buy this set. But poor quality SD signals aren't magically improved by the set.

Thanks for the tip about the THX optimizer. I ordered AVIA, but this worked for me greatly. I am happy with my picture now...

All sets will have digital noise. Some sets may do better then others at hiding this flaw. Some DVD players have this flaw and you will see it because of the player. My ISF tech loves the JVC, he researched because I was the first JVC he's done. I don't think you could have made a better purchase. You just need to tweak. Make sure you have a good DVD player. Make sure you have a strong cable signal. Make sure you calibrate the set and follow recommendations. There are too many totally satisfied owners for you not to end up like one of us :)

Can you post your settings and equipment? Maybe we can see if they are pronouncing the issue.


Here are my settings for the TV... Its greatly improved now and am satisified however if I can get a better picture that would be cool... Only issue now is really the "Gradiant Blocking" during motion on HD, but not super noticable...


Equipment:
JVC 61Z886
HR10-250 HD DirecTV Tivo connected VIA HDMI
Samsung DVD-M301 Connected VIA Component


TV Settings:
Standard
Tint 0
Color 0
Picture +5
Bright 0
Detail -25
Color Temp Low
Digital Noise OFF
Color Manager ON
Dynamic Gama OFF
Smart Picture OFF

I used the THX optimizer to get these settings I also ordered AVIA and will be running that once it arrives. Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Sorry, I can't help u with your PQ questions but i have a question for you.

How was the service from buydig ? Did they include the free stand in the
price of the tv they quote on their website ?


I got my TV a couple of weeks ago now... but anyways I paid for the stand seperately, but it wasnt expensive. I got the cheap stand... not sure how long that hunk of junk will last for. when i move i will get a different one. The service was good. The TV was delivered exactly on time, no problems at all. I would highly reccomend them. I saved over 1k with going with them instead of a local retailer... CANT BEAT THAT!!!

Bruce,

I believe the model number 57gbp6 is a best buy internal number. HD56g786 is the actual JVC model number.

I bought my 52g from Sears and they delivered on a Sunday. Just in time for some football!

Enjoy.

Watched the ring 2 on my DVB 318 through component and 1080i upconversion (the only good resolution on this player). Dark scenes were horrid. Blacks are a shade of green. Lots of macroblocking as well in black scenes. Thinking I may have a bad light engine but also know that this prolly isn't a good dvd player for this set. It was great for my crt and I just got the set a couple of weeks ago.

Anyone having green issues with their xxx86's?

terminaldawn,

I have the 56 model with the HR10-250 Tivo from DTV via HDMI. I'm gathering all the data from my calibration session to post it for everyone to review and ask questions, but in the meantime here are my viewing settings (minus the gray scale mods):

> Set to Theater Pro
> Ensure LOW color temperature is in use
> Turn off all picture enhancing features except dynamic gamma (more on that later)
> Set the picture controls to -15
> Set the sharpness controls to -25 (or 30 if you like)
> All other controls at zero/middle



I have completely different results from my ISF calibration. Was your session with an ISF tech?

-Theater Pro introduces too much red
-Dynamic gamma crushes blacks
-picture set too low will not produce a white enough white (but YMMV)
-sharpness sounds fine

Not that my settings are king, but I had an ISF tech calibrate my set and trust his equipment.

-only use Standard setting (theater has a red greyscale, theater pro uses the same redish greyscale)
-Color Management must be ON
-Dynamic Gamma should be off, along with all others



Standard and Game both are completely free and tweakable by the user. Dynamic introduces a lot of blue internally (not tweakable) and Theater introduces a ton of red internally. Go to Standard setting, get something bright. Then click over to Theater and you'll see the whites turn pink. That's bad.

The greyscale will never be perfect unless you get an ISF tech, and my settings may not help much without those SM changes. However, try mine and try others and see what looks best. My settings are required in order to get a near perfect greyscale but may not achieve the correct look with factory drive settings.

terminaldawn-
Your settings look like gold. I just saw that your blocking is only during HD motion? I see your issue now. Welcome to the wonderful world of compression. That macroblocking is typical, normal, and currently a standard. There is nothing you can do about it. It affects any and every type of display (CRT, LCD, LCOS, Plasma, etc) It's the signal, compressed to all hell, doesn't contain enough info to render those pixels that briefly fill the screen, so instead, they are blurred. Blurred in the digital world is pixelized with blocks.

It seems to be your DVD player. It's a $50 player from what I saw online. I would highly suggest an upgrade. Not sure your budget, but two options are the Panasonic S77 and S97. Both upconvert to 1080i, which will look nice on the JVC.



chaz01-
The Zenith a has a faroudja chip infamously known for 1) green blacks 2)macroblocking. So, it's not your JVC. If those two issues bother you, you need to think about upgrading. I had the Zenith and those issues bother me. I ebay-ed it and picked up a Denon 2900 which matched with the JVC is stunning DVD quality. I have the Panasonic S97 in the bedroom, and have been itching to do a comparison.

First time poster.
Just received 61z786. Man do i love it.
After allot of research purchased online saved BIG money.
Any way question.
Getting comcast cable card installed friday.
Can i still hook up dvd,xbox,etc, To hdmi.
input?
Thanks.

I have completely different results from my ISF calibration. Was your session with an ISF tech?

-Theater Pro introduces too much red
-Dynamic gamma crushes blacks
-picture set too low will not produce a white enough white (but YMMV)
-sharpness sounds fine

Not that my settings are king, but I had an ISF tech calibrate my set and trust his equipment.

-only use Standard setting (theater has a red greyscale, theater pro uses the same redish greyscale)
-Color Management must be ON
-Dynamic Gamma should be off, along with all others


Standard and Game both are completely free and tweakable by the user. Dynamic introduces a lot of blue internally (not tweakable) and Theater introduces a ton of red internally. Go to Standard setting, get something bright. Then click over to Theater and you'll see the whites turn pink. That's bad.

The greyscale will never be perfect unless you get an ISF tech, and my settings may not help much without those SM changes. However, try mine and try others and see what looks best. My settings are required in order to get a near perfect greyscale but may not achieve the correct look with factory drive settings.


Hi Kid,

The session was with an ISF tech (me), using ColorFacts PRO v6.0, an Accupel HDG3000 signal generator and both a gretagmacbeth EyeOne spectroradiometer and Milori Trichromat sensor. I do agree with some of your findings, not others. I was able to get a completely linear grayscale (30-100) using Theater Pro but it of course involved tweaking internal settings. Furthermore I found that Color Management appeared to tweak the secondaries far from their reference, specially Magenta. Dynamic Gamma does not crush black, it merely modulates gamma levels during dark scenes for supposed improved detail. I think this could be helpful on a set that tracks around 2.0 gamma after calibration (slightly low for my taste). Again, for casual (even some critical viewing) I think it is very useful. I'll be posting the results shortly but bottomline is that you can achieve a very decent calibration with Theater Pro if like you stated, have the right equipment.

Calibration is not an exact science and one person will choose one path versus another, but the end result should be the same: the best picture a set can put out. I'll continue tweaking and playing with the set until I reach that point (probably never :p ). Last night I started playing with component inputs and found much more control of the low end versus HDMi which provides no control of the low end. This is an ongoing project and with feedback from fellow enthusiasts like yourself we will certainly tweak our sets to their maximum.

terminaldawn-
Your settings look like gold. I just saw that your blocking is only during HD motion? I see your issue now. Welcome to the wonderful world of compression. That macroblocking is typical, normal, and currently a standard. There is nothing you can do about it. It affects any and every type of display (CRT, LCD, LCOS, Plasma, etc) It's the signal, compressed to all hell, doesn't contain enough info to render those pixels that briefly fill the screen, so instead, they are blurred. Blurred in the digital world is pixelized with blocks.

It seems to be your DVD player. It's a $50 player from what I saw online. I would highly suggest an upgrade. Not sure your budget, but two options are the Panasonic S77 and S97. Both upconvert to 1080i, which will look nice on the JVC.




Thanks Kid!!!

You have been most helpfull. I am not having any issues with my DVD player anymore after running the THX optimizer. Everything looks great on it... Right now the budget is slim so I can deffinatly live with the DVD player I have for now. I bought it several years ago and it was a lot more than 50 at the time. It just does not have progessive scan. From what I heard the TV will just upconvert the image instead of the DVD player and the TV does a decent job at it, correct?

Here's a link to a mediocre review of the 52g786:

JVC 52G786 Review (http://www.avguide.com/index.jsp)

Here's a link to a mediocre review of the 52g786:

JVC 52G786 Review (http://www.avguide.com/index.jsp)

I may be just dense, but I couldn't find it at the link you gave.

I may be just dense, but I couldn't find it at the link you gave.

I couldnt find it either.

You have to purchase the issue in which it appears. E-zine economics, unfortunately.

No purchase necessary. Just register and you can download the latest issue.

Thanks Kid.

Would love to see how the Panny 97 looks on the JVC. I have a budget HD setup and don't want to spend more than a few hundred bucks on a dvd player.

The panny 77 uses the same chip as my zenith, does the 97?

No purchase necessary. Just register and you can download the latest issue.

Thanks.

Hi Kid,

The session was with an ISF tech (me), ... I do agree with some of your findings, not others. ...
Wouldn't different sets in different room conditions using different equipment (different DVD player, cable, etc) produce different results? Regardless, I do appreciate you all posting your results. As for me, I couldn't stand detail at -30 or even -25 and ended up putting it back to the +5 setting I originally chose when I used my AVIA disc to calibrate. I didn't notice any change in colors, and I prefer a sharper picture to the softness of the -30 detail setting, even if it actually does change color slightly. I just like the picture of +5 detail better. To each his own. ;)

et,

I'm with you. My detail is at zero. Anything in the minus range is too soft for me.

Hi Kid,

The session was with an ISF tech (me), using ColorFacts PRO v6.0, an Accupel HDG3000 signal generator and both a gretagmacbeth EyeOne spectroradiometer and Milori Trichromat sensor. I do agree with some of your findings, not others. I was able to get a completely linear grayscale (30-100) using Theater Pro but it of course involved tweaking internal settings. Furthermore I found that Color Management appeared to tweak the secondaries far from their reference, specially Magenta. Dynamic Gamma does not crush black, it merely modulates gamma levels during dark scenes for supposed improved detail. I think this could be helpful on a set that tracks around 2.0 gamma after calibration (slightly low for my taste). Again, for casual (even some critical viewing) I think it is very useful. I'll be posting the results shortly but bottomline is that you can achieve a very decent calibration with Theater Pro if like you stated, have the right equipment.

Calibration is not an exact science and one person will choose one path versus another, but the end result should be the same: the best picture a set can put out. I'll continue tweaking and playing with the set until I reach that point (probably never :p ). Last night I started playing with component inputs and found much more control of the low end versus HDMi which provides no control of the low end. This is an ongoing project and with feedback from fellow enthusiasts like yourself we will certainly tweak our sets to their maximum.

I don't know his equipment offhand, so I can't list it. Here are some of the results-

We found that theater gave us a pink greyscale and did not allow for 6500k color temp, the grayscale is offset 1100K warmer. Theater runs warm, can not be changed.

Dynamic was the same except it forced a more S shaped gamma curve and runs cool. This color temp can not be changed.

Standard and Game are totally tweakable so we adjusted and stuck to Standard.

Seeing that the green is locked, and red is limited, we adjusted the green and blue down from there to get a 6500k temp and no pink in the greyscale. Without Color Management on, we could not get the secondary colors anywhere near the optimal settings. Once we turned it on, secondaries shot almost right into place with the exception of green which is hot on the JVC. So, I don't know how we get the exact opposite results with Color Management on and off, that's just strange to me. I think we got my gamma to 2.1 almost 2.2. Dynamic gamma boosted the lower half of the greyscale and maybe because I have the filter mod, with Dynamic Gamma on, you lose the last grey step before black. So on my set, dynamic gamma crushed blacks, technically. It made the lower scale too dark. As long as your final color tracking, color temp and greyscale are all accurate, that's all that matters :) The JVC is pretty sweet after the calibration, don't ya think?



Not sure what you mean by controlling the low end with component vs HDMI, can you explain that? What we found with test patterns is that HDMI is at least 5%-10% sharper then component.

ETphoneHome- The ISF calibrates the service menu to get a perfect greyscale across all inputs, not devices. Once you achieve the greyscale and 6500k color temp, you can then tweak for your DVD player, etc. However, you most likely will not need to adjust much if at all for HD or SD.

I know some like the sharper image with detail high, that's fine. Just as long as you know what you are seeing isn't real. The detail you think you see is artificial edge enhancement created by the JVC. It's not detail that is really there in the source. By turning detail down, the picture is not soft, it is simply free of edge enhancement that the JVC introduces. There is no fake detail added to a clean source. So basically you are putting something that decreases the clean picture quality in order to achieve artificial detail that was never there to begin with.

To each his own, I just want to make sure it's explained well as it took me a while to get used to as well. I just want to see the 'film like' picture as it was intended to be viewed.