it finally came to pass that i should have HDTiVo, it got installed today. ($299) i currently use the component hookup. which output res do you guys suggest? do you prefer the component or hdmi? currently it is sending chills down my spine to watch nascar? :)
football is so frickin' sweet :D

HDMI is sharper then component.

so far i can tell no difference in 1080i or 720p outputs, the sd channels all look the same no matter which res it is set at. i dont suppose it will hurt anything to leave it at 1080i?

HDMI is sharper then component.

My JVC HD-56G886 came in last Friday. So I have had a couple days playing round with it.

First off, Kid Red is right on about the settings. I have a Motorola 5100 Comcast digital HD cable box for about a couple years now so I am fairly familiar with HD and HDTV since the JVC is replacing the Sony 46WT500.

At dynamic the color is very much like the vivid setting in the Sony. I found standard much more to my liking. The tint is too reddish at 0. Moving it to the right (+2) helps a lot.

I found the JVC superior to the Sony in every way, specifically SD and HD. As I mentioned previously, the JVC is in a well lighted room for daytime viewing, not the forte of the Sony or the DPL sets. For movies, the Infocus 4805 in my home theater setup is serving us well at the moment. I like the DLP picture of the Infocus and have tuned and tweaked the projector for about a couple years.

My HDMI connection on the JVC does not seem to work. I did a search and found out that HDMI works for Kid Red and others and did not work for others. The cause and fix for it was never clear in this thread.

My Comcast HD box has a DVI output so I use a DVI-HDMI cable to connect it to the JVC.There is only one way to connect so there is no chance of error there. Green screen as reported by others (page 51 in the thread as I recall).



Quote:
Originally Posted by thedvdguy
I have the HD-52Z575 and I have been unsuccessful at getting any picture through the HDMI port.

I've tried to connect both a HTPC (w/ DVI-> HDMI cable) and my Comcast 6412 (the new Phase III) box (via HDMI->HDMI cable) and both resulted only in a green screen.

I think there must be something wrong with my HDMI port.
Has anyone gotten this to work with their HDMI port?


I have the same problem here with my 61Z786. I'm trying with a HDTV tuner (Accurian HTS-6000) via hdmi -> hdmi. Green screen.

I don't have anything else HDMI, so I can't test. I was trying to pull in a low VHF channel (2-1) that the JVC tuner would not consistantly. Running the Accurian via component, it receives that channel a little better.
Last edited by Wishfull1 : 09-19-05 at 10:03 AM.


So off I went to Radio Shack for another DVI-HDMI cable ( mine is a couple years old). Same result with the new cable. So it is not the cable.

Could it be the cable box, well, I have a Zenith upconverting DVD player connected to my Infocus projector which has a DVI connector.

The Zenith DVD player and new DVI-HDMI cable connected to the JVC showed again the green screen. No signal.

Oh yes, input was DIGITAL-IN at the bottom of inputs so no error there.

The good news was component video inputs 1 and 2 works perfectly so far.

So my question is how difficult was it for a HDMI replacement or repair. Did anybody has any fix or have anything else that I should have done?

I really hate to return this set for just for the HDMI malfunction. Except on my JVC box, HDMI is prominently displayed in bold capital letter. Seems to be a big feature which is not working for me. Kid Red's mention that HDMI is 5-10% sharper than component video really hurts.

Any helpful comment is appreciated.

:cool:

We found that theater gave us a pink greyscale and did not allow for 6500k color temp, the grayscale is offset 1100K warmer. Theater runs warm, can not be changed.

As long as your final color tracking, color temp and greyscale are all accurate, that's all that matters :)


Just to clarify this point and move on, you can set either of the two settings to an almost perfect grayscale (I tried both). I chose TheaterPro as my starting point, your ISF tech chose Standard as his starting point. The end result should be the same, they both offer the same level of control. In other words, exactly what you said in your last statement.



The JVC is pretty sweet after the calibration, don't ya think?


Agreed, specially after clearing up the low end.



Not sure what you mean by controlling the low end with component vs HDMI, can you explain that? What we found with test patterns is that HDMI is at least 5%-10% sharper then component.


What I meant is that there are no controls to tweak the low end for HDMI inputs. Agreed on the HDMI being sharper, but on the other hand with component you loose a LOT of the banding, you gain low end grayscale control (VERY IMPORTANT on this set), the CUE-like artifact on red areas is diminished to nothing and image noise clears up. Pick your poison, sharp but revealing of signal problems or slightly softer but less artifacts and more picture control ?

As I said, this is a work in progress so the more we play and discover the more that is revealed.

LMDA1,

The poison was chosen for me. So there are some benefits for component video after all!!!

I just hope that the HDMI connector was not part of the system board like the I/O on a computer mother board.

:(

chanc,

Do you have any other HDMI/DVI source that might allow you to eliminate the TV as the culprit ?

chanc,

Do you have any other HDMI/DVI source that might allow you to eliminate the TV as the culprit ?

From my previous post above:

So off I went to Radio Shack for another DVI-HDMI cable ( mine is a couple years old). Same result with the new cable. So it is not the cable.

Could it be the cable box, well, I have a Zenith upconverting DVD player connected to my Infocus projector which has a DVI connector.

The Zenith DVD player and new DVI-HDMI cable connected to the JVC showed again the green screen. No signal.

Oh yes, input was DIGITAL-IN at the bottom of inputs so no error there.

The good news was component video inputs 1 and 2 works perfectly so far.

End of quote.

At this time nothing would please me more than the Motorola cable box and the Zenith 318 DVD DVI output are both bad and the JVC HDMI is working properly. Frankly I really hate moving the JVC or have it repaired.

My rationale is the cable box and dvd player are both 2 year old and the dvi specs might be incompatible with the new HDMI.

But it's quite a stretch!!!


:rolleyes:

[I]At this time nothing would please me more than the Motorola cable box and the Zenith 318 DVD DVI output are both bad and the JVC HDMI is working properly. Frankly I really hate moving the JVC or have it repaired.

Depending on the warranty, maybe JVC would send someone out to simply replace the HDMI board? It sounds like a hassle, but I would sure get it taken care of now.

Depending on the warranty, maybe JVC would send someone out to simply replace the HDMI board? It sounds like a hassle, but I would sure get it taken care of now.

That is my plan!!!

Does not seem to be a widespread problem.

Only happens to a very unfortunate few!!!

:mad:

Could someone please send me the details regarding the HTPC DVI to HDMI hookup 61Z786 that kfeltes accomplished?

I have a friend with that set. He uses his HTPC as a DVR. We want to set it up using 1280x720.

Does 1280x720 fill the screen completely?

Thank you

Darren

This post crosses multiple topics.

I'm going to order the 56" G series this week. If it were you, would you order with an extended warranty? Also, would consider an "extra" for covering the Bulb if it cost an additional $150 dollars? This doesn't seem that much different that then new price on JVC bulbs.

So in summary,
Yes or No to a 3 year extended warranty and
Yes or No to an extended warranty with Bulb coverage.

Thanks!
BRADESP

Can't make that decision for you, but the EW should come standard with bulb repalcement. Not sure if the JVC EW does, but check out the website for info first then compare shop. Also, check to see if they have an authorized repair center by you, not sure how that works. EW should be around 300 and include bulbs.

http://www.jvc.com/support/index.jsp

How much is each plan?

Just read JVC terms and "consumable" items not covered. I would assume this includes bulbs.

Could someone that owns a 61Zx86 tell me how wide the pedestal/base is that supports the unit? I have a nice hardwood stand that I would really like to reuse, but I don't know if it is wide enough for the 61" JVC.

The new upcoming 1080P JVC intrigues me, but I think I may just wait for it's debut and hope that the 61Zx86 models dip in price a bit and pick one of them up instead. I still can't find a local dealer that carries the JVC's so I can inspect it in person, but the info from this thread/forum has proved invaluable to me so far.


Thanks!!
Bryan

I'm going to order the 56" G series this week. If it were you, would you order with an extended warranty? Also, would consider an "extra" for covering the Bulb if it cost an additional $150 dollars? This doesn't seem that much different that then new price on JVC bulbs.

So in summary,
Yes or No to a 3 year extended warranty and
Yes or No to an extended warranty with Bulb coverage.

Thanks!
BRADESP

Personally, I couldn't buy this TV without an extended warranty due to the number of complaints in this topic alone. I know every TV has a certain amount of faulty sets but I bought the JVC with the realization that the percentage is likely a little higher. I got my TV through TV Authority and bought the warranty bundle. I think it was $329 but you get 4/3/2 (parts and labor/bulb/screen). A single bulb will pay for most of the price of this warranty.
I have to disagree that most extended warranties cover bulb replacement. Some do but some specifically don't because they know a bult has just about 100% chance of going out in 4 years. Anyway, for me I like feeling SAFE about this TV. That way I can enjoy the picture without fear of having to fork over a ton of money later because of a part failure.
Lastly, buy with your VISA and it doubles the manufacturer's warranty and then you have the option of buying a warranty from VISA after that time frame. The VISA warranty alone gives you coverage through the second year. I have done both of these.

chanc- I didn't know there was an issue with HDMI for some. I'm using a DVI>HDMI cable for the my STB and no green issue or any issue. I'd definitely call JVC.

LMDA1-So you calibrated your drives to over compensate the green and blue to even out the overly warm temp on theater? Just trying to understand, not linger. I don't notice and banding with HDMI, my picture actually has less banding and digital noise then before the ISF secession. We calibrated all the noise out of the blacks so HDMI HD is just as smooth as my Denon component DVD player and it's sharper. I wish my Denon was HDMI.

Kainan & bradesp- I don't have a warranty with my JVC and I've had it fixed 3 times and swapped out for a new set once. JVC is just that good at fixing their sets during their 1 year coverage. If you have an issue, call JVC and they will fix it. There's no reason to pay Best Buy to do what JVC will do for free. Use the $400 to buy a $200 bulb and 10 DVDs instead.

chanc- I didn't know there was an issue with HDMI for some. I'm using a DVI>HDMI cable for the my STB and no green issue or any issue. I'd definitely call JVC.

LMDA1-So you calibrated your drives to over compensate the green and blue to even out the overly warm temp on theater? Just trying to understand, not linger. I don't notice and banding with HDMI, my picture actually has less banding and digital noise then before the ISF secession. We calibrated all the noise out of the blacks so HDMI HD is just as smooth as my Denon component DVD player and it's sharper. I wish my Denon was HDMI.

Kainan & bradesp- I don't have a warranty with my JVC and I've had it fixed 3 times and swapped out for a new set once. JVC is just that good at fixing their sets during their 1 year coverage. If you have an issue, call JVC and they will fix it. There's no reason to pay Best Buy to do what JVC will do for free. Use the $400 to buy a $200 bulb and 10 DVDs instead.


I would disagree with not getting the EW. Just had a light engine replaced in my JVC after less than 5 months. Peace of mind verses a nervous, expensive, gamble? To me it's a no brainer! I got my 4 year EW for $240.

Kainan & bradesp- I don't have a warranty with my JVC and I've had it fixed 3 times and swapped out for a new set once. JVC is just that good at fixing their sets during their 1 year coverage. If you have an issue, call JVC and they will fix it. There's no reason to pay Best Buy to do what JVC will do for free. Use the $400 to buy a $200 bulb and 10 DVDs instead.


I'm sorry man but you listing a plethora of problems that JVC fixed WITHIN their 1 year warranty period does NOT give me warm fuzzies about everything PAST that year. If you have this many problems in a year then what makes you think you won't have any after a year? Of course JVC wants to make the customers happy. They know they have put out some faulty parts and don't want their name smeared by tons of people who get bad sets and are angry about JVC not fixing them. It is good to know that JVC is standing behind their product but not too comforting when thinking about the long haul. Like I said, for $329 you feel good. Just one bulb and you are down to $129 spent for peace of mind even if it is never used for anything other than that one bulb.

I'm going to be buying one of these in the next couple of weeks, probably online. I'll also probably buy an EW. Based on the language on the JVC website it looks as if bulb replacement is not covered.

My advice on Extended Warranties: read the fine print very carefully. The one I was considering buying had so many exclusions in the warranty that it made me wonder if they even covered anything. Seriously, they would do better to write what they DO cover, not what they exclude. :confused: And certainly don't take the salesman's word for it. I talked to several places before I bought my 52G786, and each time the salesman said the bulb was covered, when the fine print specifically said consumables (bulbs) were not covered.

My suggestion is to do the VISA Gold/Platinum warranty, which is FREE and extends the exact manufacturer's warranty for an extra year. That's what I did. No one would sell extended warranties if they didn't make money on them. The odds of something failing on your TV in years 2-4 are pretty slim and not worth the hundreds of dollars, IMHO.

Does anyone have a list of DVD players that are compatible with the jvc 61z886.. Some people are having issues with chips, greens screens etc. Any insight would be helpful

Panny 77/97, denon etc

Thanks
P

My suggestion is to do the VISA Gold/Platinum warranty, which is FREE and extends the exact manufacturer's warranty for an extra year.

Have you ever actually made a claim against your credit card extended warranty? I have tried -- the process is to demand so much paperwork from you that you eventually give up and just pay for it yourself.

I would disagree with not getting the EW. Just had a light engine replaced in my JVC after less than 5 months. Peace of mind verses a nervous, expensive, gamble? To me it's a no brainer! I got my 4 year EW for $240.


5 months, JVC covers it. If it looks good, you want have to replace it again. So your $240 won't do much good in a few years except maybe pay for a $200 bulb.

Kainan- Exactly my point. I had 3 light engine replacements, all without a warranty. JVC gave me a brand new G series to replace my Z series. All without warranty. I decide to get a $400 refund on my warranty from BB because of JVC's service. It's your call, just knowing that a $200 bulb is the only thing you'll need replacing after the first year makes most EWs a waste of money.

But of course it's just MHO based on my experience.

Vegasvic- If a bulb blows the first year, JVC will overnight you a new bulb. Something BB won't do and may fight you on with their $400 warranty.

Thanks for the info. I rarely buy EW's. It seems as if most problems happen out of the box or within the first year anyway. I'll probably buy mine online, looks like I can save quite a bit over BB even with shipping costs.

Have you ever actually made a claim against your credit card extended warranty? I have tried -- the process is to demand so much paperwork from you that you eventually give up and just pay for it yourself.

That is very true, I once filed a measly $50 claim on a cordless phone with
mastercard and had to submit tons of paperwork including a "repair estimate".

But even with that experience I am sort of leaning towards banking on my AMEX
double warranty for the tv purchase mainly because i don't believe much in the
extended warranty coverage being sold at BB/CC/online etc.

The insurance companies are in the business of making money, not giving out :).
Has anyone here used their extended warranty to replace a bulb yet and how
easy/painful was it ?

I agree with the no brainer buy for $240. Bulb WILL be replaced during term which brings the cost to $40, or decreases bulb replacement if >2 (assuming they're covered).

C'mon, who wouldn't buy an ew on a $2500 set for 40 bucks?

I'm planning on taking the plunge on a 50" set the 1st week of November, so I can get that 30 day price match for the day after T'giving sales. I really like the picture on the DLP sets, but I unfortunately see rainbows! The SDE on LCD is tolerable but not desired. The JVC/LYCOS sets I've seen in BB & CC seem to have a much softer image (less sharp) compared to LCD and DLP. I know the feeds are poor and proper calibration non-existent for showroom demos in the big box chains, so I need a first hand report from an owner. I'm leaning towards dealing with the SDE (Sony A10, LCD) due to the sharpness of the LCD image and less problems(?) with the unit. I'm wanting to think/hope that with proper calibration the JVC image should at least match the A10's sharpness. Hopefully someone on here can convince me to head towards JVC, as my main concern is the image sharpness.

The other set I've considered is a new Sony SXRD, but it's a little out of my price range and it's the first year in production.

Thanks in advance!

We had our 56G786 delivered Sunday morning and after only two days with it, I have to say we're very pleased so far. The picture on this thing just rocks.

We're using HD cable, and I have to agree with other's opinions that this set is highly dependant on the quality of the source. Certain channels look better than others, and any compression is really apparent.

It's hooked up to the SA8300HD via HDMI for video and that does give a slightly better and sharper picture than using component. It's a cheap GE cable and I haven't seen any green streaks or other abnormalities.

The date of manufacture was August 2005, which surprised me -- that's barely letting the paint dry!

So far, I've been letting the STB do the up/down conversion to 720p for the JVC. This isn't saying that the JVC's conversion isn't as good, but my STB crashed a few times when switching channels with different scan rates. I'll probably give it another go in a few days.

In viewing so far, I also have to agree that this set looks better in the daytime than it does in the dark. Even with the picture and brightness turned down from the "need sunglasses" setting the blacks had a blueish tent the first night. Last night after some monkeying around, black lever was better, so I'm hopeful that some real tweaking will do the trick. After a few months, I'm thinking of getting it professionally calibrated.

SD seems to go from god awful to just so-so. The further back you are the better it seems to be for SD. Our normal viewing distance is 9 to 11 feet and that seems a little close for SD with this set. It looks much better from our kitchen table -- which is about 14/15 feet away. Since most of our SD viewing is the nightly news that we watch while eating dinner, this is good for us.

Can't say much about the free stand that came with the TV from BB, other than it was free. I've put together countless desks and other furniture in my time, and the instructions were about the worst I've every seen. The glass shelf would barely fit on the little supports without slipping off, so I added an L bracket to each side to keep the glass from falling. The funniest thing is that everyone who's seen the set comments on how nice the stand looks. Go figure...

-bruce

I'll weigh in regarding the SD picture. I have a 61z786 that I got last Wednesday. I have to say that I am pleasantly surprised at how good most of my SD channels look on this TV. I have analog cable, and I live in the boonies, so I don't have any HD channels yet. I had the TV search for digital cable channels and it found about six coming through the cable (like Starz, Encore, Sportsmans Channel). Five of the six look better than most of the analog channels, but one looks worse. The analog SD channels range from OK to quite good. I am not the least bothered by watching SD on this TV. It compares very favorably to a Sony LCD and an RCA DPL my neighbors have (on the same cable system).

I can't get any HD channels using an antenna, and I haven't upgraded my cable to get digital channels (none of which I'll watch) and HD channels (there are only seven at this time). My cable bill will go up by $23 a month to get seven HD channels, or $33 a month to add an HD DVR. Of those seven, I'll watch only a couple (my cable co. has NBC and FOX in HD, but not CBS or ABC or FX yet). It pains me to spend $23 to $33 a month for just a couple of HD channels.

cj3478 - The sharpness on the JVC can not be made crisper. If you think the JVC is soft compared to the Sony and you like the Sony, then you are better off getting the Sony. What you see sharpness wise with the JVC is pretty much what to expect.

bruceorlando- I don't have ANY god awful SD channels. You have BHN right? If they are that bad, you're either 1) too close 2) need to calibrate the set 3) need to have cable check your lines.

I sit 11' feet back from my 52". I would be at least 12'-13' for your set. It really is something you have to try and gauge.

To be quite frank, I'm EXTREMELY surprised to see someone dislikeing SD on this set. I had the Sony A10 and anything beyond GREAT HD looked like a jumbled mess to me. After reading many posts on this forum I just thought it was something I was going to have to live with if I changed from CRT. I mean it looked really bad. I called it macro blocking in other threads but maybe SSE is the problem. I'm not sure what you want to call it but it looked like a mosaic paiting to me as it was very blotchy. I was thrilled when I got the JVC and found it to have the softer look like my Pioneer Elite RPCRT that I sold. Call it preference but I would MUCH rather look at a softer smoother picture than a sharp jumbled mess. This is the only negative of the Sony A10/A20 that I would speak so strongly about. Yes, I think the black level is a bit better than the Sony but it is minimal.
So, from all I've seen I can honestly say that this is the best micro display I've seen yet for SD and poor HD. As I said, I would rather see soft and smooth rather than harsh blobs of digital picture. To each their own.
One other point. I don't know if it is due to the TV breaking in or if it is just me but the HD and the picture in general seems to be getting better. The reds aren't quite as harsh as when I first received the TV. Maybe it is just me.

KidRed,
Are you saying all of this replacement work, etc. was done by JVC AFTER your 1 year warranty expired on the older Z version? I'm trying to make sure I'm clear here.

terminaldawn,

I have the 56 model with the HR10-250 Tivo from DTV via HDMI. I'm gathering all the data from my calibration session to post it for everyone to review and ask questions, but in the meantime here are my viewing settings (minus the gray scale mods):

> Set to Theater Pro
> Ensure LOW color temperature is in use
> Turn off all picture enhancing features except dynamic gamma (more on that later)
> Set the picture controls to -15
> Set the sharpness controls to -25 (or 30 if you like)
> All other controls at zero/middle

For HD from the tivo I leave it on 1080i. For Sd from the Tivo I leave it on 480i. Both via HDMI. I've noticed that for casual viewing, the Dynaminc Gamma helps considerably with dark scenes. In certain VERY dark scnes it adds some noise but in 95% of the time it helps. I see ZERO artifacts on DVD other than those detailed in the last paragraph below. If you see macroblocking on DVD, it's in the source. With these settings I get very nice HD and SD picture quality, but I sometimes switch to cable for SD, I'll take some analog noise over macro blocking and compression any day.

The two areas this set should receive an immediate firmware updates from JVC (hint, hint) are in color banding, picture noise on low level scenes and a CUE-like artifact on intense red areas.

LMDA what is a CUE like artifact? I've noticed in intensely red objects some noise and I think it's what yuu are seeing too. However, unlike you I don't actually KNOW what it is. You obviously know what you're talking about and I'd love to learn.

KidRed,
Are you saying all of this replacement work, etc. was done by JVC AFTER your 1 year warranty expired on the older Z version? I'm trying to make sure I'm clear here.


I had the Z 52" and it had the light engine replaced 3 times, with the last falling 4 months after purchase. JVC made the offer (to make me happy) of upgrading to a completely new set. I asked if I could wait a month or two for the new G series to come out. They said yes. So I waited about 3 months for the G series to come out and JVC allowed me to get a G 52" from Best Buy where I bought the set. All that was reason enough for me to refund my EW. The warranty WOULD NOT have carried over to the new set so that also made it easy for me to return.

All in all, based on JVC's support, I feel safe with 1 year warranty on this set. If something is wrong, it'll happen the first few months.

Kid Red, guess we have different definitions of "god-awful". :) Sorry if that seemed unduly harsh.

Actually, with the new HD STB my cable over all looks better than it did with the one it replaced, so I have to tip my hat to the folks down at cable central (yes, it's Blight House).

Sorry, but in looking at it again, some of the channels for me are just a tad fuzzy I guess I should have emphasized that this is just my opinion and I expected them too. Anyway, I'm alway amazed how two people can look at the same display -- and one thinks it looks great, and the other thinks it doesn't. Human nature I guess.

In no way did I mean to disparage the mighty JVC's capability or to imply that it was unexceptable. And I'm I mean it's mighty. The color on this thing is just fantastic at any resolution, and I think the HD is also. I think after it's had a few more hours to burn in -- it's going to be just great.

I told myself that if my set looked as good as the one I saw on display at a particular store (BB on Colonial) then I would be more than happy. As I think the set I have looks even better than that -- I am one happy customer -- at least until the first bulb pops! :D

-bruce
HD grasshopper

LMDA what is a CUE like artifact? I've noticed in intensely red objects some noise and I think it's what yuu are seeing too. However, unlike you I don't actually KNOW what it is. You obviously know what you're talking about and I'd love to learn.

Gulley,

CUE stands for Chroma Upsampling Error, basically an MPEG decoder error that shows up on the screen as streaks or "broken up" artifacts on intense red areas. I'll try to capture an image at home and post it here. The included links can provide perhaps more information than you were requesting.

http://ca.geocities.com/4dtv@rogers.com/other/dvd.html
http://members.aol.com/ajaynejr/vidbug2.htm#CUE2

Cool, thanks for the indo LMDA1

LMDA1, I read back over some of your posts. I'm interested to hear what your final verdict of the D-ILA is in comparison with other RPTV's in the same class. Also, after you calibrated your set how much of an improvement was there? Was it subtle,or a very marked improvement. My biggest complaint is what this set with shadow detail and dark scenes that just turn to mud. Is that this TV's achilles hill or can it be improved? Does the ND mod improve that?

my opinion for sd on these, is that, at least with a hdmi hookup it is very blocky, versus the component hookup having no blockiness but softer overall. i prefer the component over hdmi for sd, the hd on my set looks better via hdmi but only marginally. i have been going back and forth with it for a few days and have yet to commit, but i am leaning to component, the downside being i will hookup my xbox via composite to freeup the component for dvd.

can anyone tell me that which JVC model should directly compare with the SONY 50" SXRD?? I am planning to buy the Sony 50" SXRD and know that JVC is only other manufacturer that use the same technology. I never consider a TV from JVC before. That's why i am not familar which their model and don't know which model is new or old.

Thanks in advance.

can anyone tell me that which JVC model should directly compare with the SONY 50" SXRD?? I am planning to buy the Sony 50" SXRD and know that JVC is only other manufacturer that use the same technology. I never consider a TV from JVC before. That's why i am not familar which their model and don't know which model is new or old.


I'd look at the JVC HD-52G786 and HD-52G886 models. These are the newest 720p models they have. The difference between them is the cabinet color.

JVC HD-52G886 (http://www.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=MODL027579&pathId=114&page=1)

can anyone tell me that which JVC model should directly compare with the SONY 50" SXRD?? I am planning to buy the Sony 50" SXRD and know that JVC is only other manufacturer that use the same technology. I never consider a TV from JVC before. That's why i am not familar which their model and don't know which model is new or old.

Thanks in advance.

Don't look at the 720p model, look at the upcoming 1080p

1. HD-61FH96
2. HD-P61R1U

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=571086&page=1&pp=30



These are the 60" models that I am looking at. I am also interested in the 60 SXRD from sony, but the case is too wide with those side speakers.
I have a 60" inclosure to fit the tv into. If these don't work then I will go for the 55" hitachi.

I wanted to share some of the measurements for the set prior to calibration. This might help you understand what you are seeing on your sets. The following charts detail the balance of red, green and blue when measuring various patterns. In this case we measure various IRE levels from the lowest 0IRE level(black) to the highest 100IRE (white). Ideally you will have a perfect balance of all three color, ensuring no color "contaminates" your greyscale.

Having said that here are the default RGB levels measurements for the Standard mode with all settings at default mode :
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/182/182691/folders/219338/1696570JVCDILA56RPTVRGBLevelsHistogram.jpg

Here are the default RGB levels measurements for the Dynamic mode with all settings at default mode:
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/182/182691/folders/219338/1696565JVCDILA56RPTVRGBLevelsHistogram.jpg

Here are the default RGB levels measurements for the Game mode with all settings at default mode:
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/182/182691/folders/219338/1696573JVCDILA56RPTVRGBLevelsHistogram.jpg

Here are the default RGB levels measurements for the Theater Pro mode with all settings at default mode:
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/182/182691/folders/219338/1696578JVCDILA56RPTVRGBLevelsHistogram.jpg

I chose the Theater Pro as the base to start tweking the grayscale given it was closest to neutral. Here are the results after a little internal tweaking to balance out all colors across the board. Fairly decent :
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/182/182691/folders/219338/1696608JVCDILA56RPTVRGBLevelsHistogram.jpg

Here is the luminance histogram post-calibration:
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/182/182691/folders/219338/1696699JVCDILA56RPTVLuminanceHistogram.jpg

Here is the CIE chart post-calibration. Now you know why your greens are a little lime:
http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/182/182691/folders/219338/1696616JVCDILA56RPTVCIEChart.jpg

Overall this set benefits considerably from a proper calibration using the right equipment. The low end shows the most improvement with the removal of most of the green/blue hue that permeates on dark images. I'll post more information later on. Hope this was useful.

LMDA1; I'm impressed. OK, where did all of that come from??

chanc- I didn't know there was an issue with HDMI for some. I'm using a DVI>HDMI cable for the my STB and no green issue or any issue. I'd definitely call JVC.


I have found that my HDMI problem is self induced. I removed the back panel with with power on. Tripped the HDMI piracy protection light sensor and now left with a green screen when using HDMI. Oh well, i'll get 'er fixed.

Cheers

Overall this set benefits considerably from a proper calibration using the right equipment. The low end shows the most improvement with the removal of most of the green/blue hue that permeates on dark images. I'll post more information later on. Hope this was useful.

Good stuff LMDA1

I use a Gretag Macbeth Eye-One daily at work calibrating and profiling our monitors, proofing devices and printing presses. I wonder if I can use it on the JVC. I might try the projector display Eye-One Match

What software did you use for your fine charts here?

Cheers

Wishfull1,

I use Colorfacts along with various sensors to take measurements, one of them being the Eye1 you mention.

I wanted to share some of the measurements for the set prior to calibration.




Here's my before-

1) my color
2) my gresyscale
3) my color temp

Here's my after-

1) my color
2) my gresyscale
3) my color temp

LMDA1 and Kid Red, thanks for posting those graphs. I really do appreciate it. However, I'm looking for your subjective opinions. I'm really not happy with what happens in dark areas of an image. Actually, I'm starting to develop buyers remorse and I've only had the TV for a month. My major problem (with the TV ;-) ) is what I see in shadows, which is nothing. Also in dark areas, even like a dark suit, becomes a dark blob with no detail. I won't see the lapel, the creases etc, just no definition at all. However, if I blow the contrast up and wash out the image low and behold I can see that there is detail, or noise. I have set the detail to -28 which seemed to take out most if not all of the noise and edge enhancement. I have the dynamic gamma on. I love the color and the film like image and XBOX is awesome. Even though I'd read about the low black levels, the contrast and the problem with shadow detail I didn't realize how it impacted the image until I took the tv home and had time to study it. The chromatic aberrations, while present, really aren't visible at viewing distance though I assume they may have a detrimental impact on perceived definition. I liked the Samsung Pedastal's image, but XBOX lag and audio-sync problems ruled it out for me. I thought I was making an informed decision and able to accept the compromises. Now I'm not so sure. It's a marked improvement over what I used to watch, to be sure. I can live with this for a while and hopefully there will be substantial improvements in LCOS design, apparently the new SXRD's are awesome in this regard. Maybe price will decrease significantly in the next two are three years and improve enough so I don't have to compromise. Still, I was hoping, maybe foolishly, that this set would last me a long time. That's one of the reasons I went with LCOS as opposed to LCD or Plasma. I feel that I am already looking for my next set and at least now I know what to look for. I don't know if I'd recommend this set to a friend unless they were a serious sports fan. But I like to watch movies and often in the dark. Like an idiot I bought the brightest set in the world not fully UNDERSTANDING how those poor black levels would really drive me nuts. If I can dial this set way, way down for decent night viewing I'll be very happy.

Gulley- Now you know why we filter mod these bad boys :)

Kid Red, I'm listening. Please tell me more. Can you tell me subjectively how much better it made the TV. I think I have the same tv as you, the 56G. How hard is it to do the Mod? Will it totally solve my black level issue? Will I see the shadow detail I want? Is it risky to do or hard? Can an ISF tech do it for me with a calibration or should I try it myself. I saw the thread with you and bluescale a while ago but I don't know how much detail you went in to. What's the downside of the filter mod. I do not consider reducing brightness a bad thing with this tv. Will it improve contrast at all?

Gulley- haha, slow down, slow down. Yes, the filter mod will completely solve your black level gripes. It has made the set CRT like. I actually have the 52g. It's not hard to do, but does require a steady hand, concentration and poise. An ISF tech can do it, if he or she has done it before. As I know, I'm the only one to have modded the newer G (big Z) series. When someone slams the JVC for poor black levels I just laugh because they haven't seen mine.

There is no downside that has been discovered thus far. If done right, everything should be fine. I've only had mine in for 3-4 weeks, so it's still early (older Z series was modded for 2 months or so with no issues) But, once modded, it's very hard not to keep trying if you fail in your attempts. I failed a few times on each model before getting it right. You can try it yourself, check the thread. You need a .6 Kodak ND filter ($60), scissors, clear packaging tape (not scotch tape), 2 pairs of tweezers, a flash light and about 45 minutes depending. Oh and surgical gloves if you're clumsy, don't want finger prints on the lens or filter.

Not really risky unless you go in banging stuff, knocking it or dropping it. My results are amazing, Underworld, I, Robot, Chronicles of Riddick, etc in a dark room is awesome.

Hello gang,
I'm having my 52g ISF'd on Friday.. Is there anything I should point out to the tech before any calibrations are done? I plan to stand over his shoulder and watch every single step that he takes and will take plenty of notes. Anything we should stay away from?

gfoulks- Just let him know he can only adjust the greyscale and color temp. There are no color management or color decoders to calibrate so he should give you a discount as it's only a third of the work.

Just make sure he has the service menu. The s001 are test patterns and they correspond to the settings. So pattern #12 in s001 is for the s012 settings, pattern #14 in s001 is for s014, etc. I think that was the one thing we discovered that wasn't clear in the manual.

Do you have the ND fitler mod? If so, you'll be in paradise come Saturday.

No I don't use a ND filter.... I've been happy with the black levels so far so I've not really looked at doing this. Does it really make that much of a difference for someone who's not even bothered by it now?

These are the services he offers for LCOS sets (your saying that the only thing he can't do is make any decoder adjustments?)

*Grayscale calibration on one input type for set. (S-Video / Component Interlaced / Component Progressive / HDTV)
*User Controls, establish optimal Brightness / Contrast / Color / Tint / Sharpness settings, *Center all five settings within service or user menu where possible
*Provide product specific Before vs. After chart for customer reference
*Cleaning of optical elements as needed
*Color decoder adjustments (when possible)

If grayscale and color temp are all that can be adjusted then wouldn't it make more sense to get of these doeys instead of a ISF tech?

http://www.colorvision.com/profis/profis_view.jsp?id=402

gfoulks- Well, those are about the same if not a little more then what the ISF tech should charge. And, once calibrated, what will you do with it? I also read about it here on AVS and it received less then spectacular comments. Also, a ISF tech will know what he's doing in the service menu.

No I don't use a ND filter.... I've been happy with the black levels so far so I've not really looked at doing this. Does it really make that much of a difference for someone who's not even bothered by it now?

These are the services he offers for LCOS sets (your saying that the only thing he can't do is make any decoder adjustments?)

*Grayscale calibration on one input type for set. (S-Video / Component Interlaced / Component Progressive / HDTV)
*User Controls, establish optimal Brightness / Contrast / Color / Tint / Sharpness settings, *Center all five settings within service or user menu where possible
*Provide product specific Before vs. After chart for customer reference
*Cleaning of optical elements as needed
*Color decoder adjustments (when possible)


Damn, he'll only do one input? You'll want HDMI and component done. The user controls take 5 minutes once greyscale and color temp is achieved, so that's not really important. There won't be any cleaning needed and there's no color decoder. So maybe he'll throw in the other inputs since there's no color decoder? I'd make sure you got a discount.

If you're cool with the blacks, then cool :)

I was not aware that there were individual settings for each input... I thought the settings applied to all inputs.

Question if the settings are adjusted for component then does this new setting apply to all of the component inputs?

I was not aware that there were individual settings for each input... I thought the settings applied to all inputs.

Question if the settings are adjusted for component then does this new setting apply to all of the component inputs?


Sorry, per scan rate, not input. There are 2, HD and not. Basically, 720p and 1080i are one, and 480p/480i are the other. Yes, component for DVD is the same for component on cable and the same for HDMI DVD, etc. But if you watch SD which would be S-Video, that would change.

So you'll want the two scan rates calibrated because unless your 480p DVD player upconverts, it will be a different scan rate then 720p/1080i HD cable.

I've been a little ill the past couple of days and maybe the fog of being sick is clouding my mind but I'm still not following...

Let me lay out what my attached components are and maybe you can help suggest what needs to be calibrated.

On HDMI I have a DirecTV HD DVR that typically runs on 720p (it can run on 1080i but I can't tell the difference so I just keep it at 720p) obviously on the Digital Input

I run a Sony 5 Disk Progressive Scan DVD on Component (Input 2) and a standard definition DVR on S-Video. (Input 1)

What other inputs do I tell the tech to calibrate?

Kid Red and LMDA1,
Let me see if I understand this. The ND filter mod will improve blacks. I should do that prior to calibration where I will have my Grayscalle calibrated. As a result I should end up with Deep blacks and a good grayscale which, if I understand correctly, will eliminate any sort of Black crush and problems I have with dark scenes or objects turning to mud. Will it impriove shadow detail. If it fixes those two things I really think I'll be happy with this set. Until I learn more, and then something else will bug me. That CUE bug for Reds also was apparent with Oranges too. Hmmm.

gfoulks- It's scan rate not input. You can get 480p, 720p and 1080i all while on component input 1 watching cable. When you have HD channels on (720p and 1080i) you'll have calibrated scan rate 1, when you switch to SD or watch a DVD on your 480p player thru component, you'll have calibrated scan rate 2.

gulley- the ND filter filters out light. Essentially, it does not allow a % of light to pass thru it making blacks, blacker. It does not affect your greyscale settings (but will allow you to adjust correctly indirectly improving the greyscale). It does not eliminate black crush, only your settings and calibration will (tho it will improve blacks) It will improve shadow detail if your settings and calibration is accurate. The filter will simply take the light passing thru your blacks away.

You can have a filter mod and still have a crappy muddy, dark picture. You need to have the tv tweaked, adjusted and calibrated and with the filter, you'll enjoy an awesome picture.

gfoulks,

Kidred has got you covered in his anwers, I'd just like to add to ensure he has the proper equipment and ideally experience with your set (although not required). Let us know how it goes, now that you know what your end results should look like. Anything less is not acceptable.

LMDA1, you wouldn't happen to be coming to NYC anytime in the near future and be willing to do a calibration and ND filter mod on a JVC? Do you know anyone who can do both in NYC that you could recommend?

gulley- Try the calibration forum-

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=586330

gulley- the ND filter filters out light. Essentially, it does not allow a % of light to pass thru it making blacks, blacker. It does not affect your greyscale settings (but will allow you to adjust correctly indirectly improving the greyscale). It does not eliminate black crush, only your settings and calibration will (tho it will improve blacks) It will improve shadow detail if your settings and calibration is accurate. The filter will simply take the light passing thru your blacks away.


I've been following this filter mod issue with a lot of interest and appreciate all the time and effort that you and bluescale have put into it.

I wonder though, could you achieve the same effect by inserting an aperature, rather than a filter into the light stream? The aperature could have a couple of advantages over a ND filter. 1) No chance of introducing defects caused by the filter material 2) less chance of heat induced problems

Of course this depends a lot on where in the optical path the aperature is set. Close enough to the entrance pupil of the system, then you won't have edge effects or diffractive effects.

dshays- I don't know what an aperture would look like. All I know is that it would have to be sheet thin like the filters are.

Kid Red, I realize ths may be asking a lot, but can you post any pictures of your tv displaying any images with a lot of shadow detail?

Gulley,

I don't recommend you put a lot of weight on a screen capture, but I'm a little baffled by your description about zero shadow detail. How about this, is there a particular DVD scene that you are familiar with that you feel has zero shadow detail ? Hopefully I have a copy and I can try to do a decent capture representative of what I'm seeing on the screen (keep in mind I don't have the filter mod). BTW, what where you watching before you purchased this set ?

A panasonic 32" CRT. I'll see what I can do. Thanks LMDA1. Interestingly I just walked down stairs and saw the 50" SXRD. No visible pixel structure, at all. Good contrast. It was very bright so I can't comment on blacks excep the look good, but according to other reports it's great in this regard. What I found was interesting was that it had CA. Not as much as the JVC's; it was minor. and I'm sure not visible at viewing distance but it was definitely there. Otherwise the set looked great. 50" is a lot less real estate than 56", for twice what I paid, though.

Gulley- What would you like to see?

Hello All,

About two months ago I purchased the 52G786 and I wanted to comment on my thoughts and experiences for what it's worth. Being that I recently graduated from college and acquired a respectable paying job that replaced my previous retail job selling Home Theater Equipment (hence my interest), I decided that it was time to throw out my old 27" JVC CRT and plunge into the HD world.

After reading this forum for a few months, conducting my own research, and drawing on my retail experience I decided that there was no "ideal" HD TV out there. But rather than throw in the towel prematurely, being that I'm no anal retentive, glass-is-half-empty kind of guy, I figured I'd be willing to make some compromises. So, based on what I wanted to use this television for (HD Sports, Movies, HD/SD shows, Gaming, HTPC) I came to the conclusion that LCOS would best meet that use. So being that I kept my HT retail job on the side (for the discount of course :D ), I pulled the trigger and brought home the new 52" JVC w/ 4 year extended warranty (including bulb replacement) for one heck of a deal.

Once I got it home, I discovered just how "useful" that FREE stand actually was. As confusing as it was to put together, luckily, it was a cinch to fall....err, take apart once I found a suitable replacement. That being said, my experience when first turning on this television, was nothing short of amazement. The JVC has by far the best HD display that I have encountered on any TV.

I'll spare the rest of my 'first impressions' since it doesn't seem as relevant as my current impressions. First off, I have not had this set professionally calibrated (though I would like to in the future), but I have personally calibrated it with DVE and the recommendations of fellow owners in this forum. With this in mind, I will report my personal 'pros' and 'cons' I have seen to this point.

PROS:

1) HD sports/shows are still bar none to any other display I've seen. I am receiving these broadcasts through coax into the ATSC/QAM Tuner.

2) Movies are, for the most part, stunning. As most members have reported, the colors on this display are downright gorgeous, and that's using an older Sony progressive scan via component cables.

3) Games.....well first off I have not experienced ANY lag on the 3 systems I am about to mention. XBOX games look great when viewed through component on 480p, I look forward to the release of the 360. As for PS2/Gamecube, it's not as impressive as the XBOX, but it's decent given the fact that most PS2 games are 480i and Gamecube does not support 16:9

4) HTPC, I have a Radeon 8500 GPU that has not been consistent for me so I can't form too much of an opinion on this topic. Once, I was able find the correct resolution that the set would support, but since that time I have not been able to replicate that result, nor have I spent much time trying to.

CONS:

Really, there's nothing new to report here. I notice CA on certain scenes, mostly on SD stuff. Blacks levels can be poor (i.e. noise in the image and lack of detail) with some movie scenes/settings, other times I have no complaints at all. Remote functions can be bothersome at times, especially since I rely on the tuner to switch channels. SD broadcasts are sub par, but that's not really a limitation of the TV it's just what we're stuck with. Fan noise is actually not an issue for me, I can only hear it when the set is in its cooling cycle and there is NO other background noise.

So overall I am extremely satisfied with my decision on purchasing this set. Thanks for taking the time to read this lengthy post, I’ll try to keep ‘em shorter in the future!

Kid Red,

Do you have pictures of the TV ouput w/ and w/o the filter installed?
I remember you had some info posted somewhere when you were doing it to the 575 and you had tried a few diff ND filters, but I couldn't find that thread.

Do you have pictures/instructions for the MOD itself. I have the z575 and haven't really noticed any issues with the black level, I'm just curious to see what kind of difference this might make.

Thanks

Gulley,

I don't recommend you put a lot of weight on a screen capture, but I'm a little baffled by your description about zero shadow detail. How about this, is there a particular DVD scene that you are familiar with that you feel has zero shadow detail ? Hopefully I have a copy and I can try to do a decent capture representative of what I'm seeing on the screen (keep in mind I don't have the filter mod). BTW, what where you watching before you purchased this set ?
LMDA1 Here's graphic description of my problem. I saw Natasha Henstridge on TV a few days ago, wearing a black sweater in a brightly lit room. She was facing the camera an dher sweater looked like a black blob. But When I hit pause on the DVR and boosted the brightness all of a sudden I saw the detail in her sweater and that lough and behold, she was stacked. OF course then the image looked washed out. Maybe I'm wrong, maybe it's just that I'm a noob and don't realize how things really are suposed to look.

Maybe it's the DVR that's 'loosing' the definition?

LMDA1 Here's graphic description of my problem. I saw Natasha Henstridge on TV a few days ago, wearing a black sweater in a brightly lit room. She was facing the camera an dher sweater looked like a black blob. But When I hit pause on the DVR and boosted the brightness all of a sudden I saw the detail in her sweater and that lough and behold, she was stacked. OF course then the image looked washed out. Maybe I'm wrong, maybe it's just that I'm a noob and don't realize how things really are suposed to look. Isn't this bascially a description of "black crush"? Another example, which I see on my set from time to time, is when someone wears a black suit, it looks almost like velvet, and you can't see the lapels or the buttons. If you increase brightness, you see the lapels and buttons, but the image can get washed out a bit if you increase brightness too much. I have found a compromise brightness level on my set, but there are still times when, depending on the source, there is some loss of shadow detail. I have assumed that this is just the downside of the technology that produces an absolutely stunning, bright, colorful, to-die-for picture when you're watching TV sports in the middle of the day. It's like, my CRT had great blacks -- as long as you watched it after the sun went down and there were no lights nearby.

hey gulley what dvr are you using? with the hd tivo and hdmi hookup i get really good blacks on HD and SD there is a little more noise than with component though. as a side note, i followed kid red's mention of the test patterns built into the set and by following the service manual was able to reduce a crap ton of noise over the hdmi and component, the difference was amazing. input a white pattern, set so01 according to manual, the screen will split horizontaly, the upper part of the screen was filled with red and blue sparkles, the cb of reg and cr of reg were defaulted to 57 and turning them down to 30 or so eliminated the sparkles.
hope that helps someone.

Gulley,

CUE stands for Chroma Upsampling Error, basically an MPEG decoder error that shows up on the screen as streaks or "broken up" artifacts on intense red areas. I'll try to capture an image at home and post it here. The included links can provide perhaps more information than you were requesting.

http://ca.geocities.com/4dtv@rogers.com/other/dvd.html
http://members.aol.com/ajaynejr/vidbug2.htm#CUE2
LMDA1, I have the DVP-NS755V. Apparently it has the chroma upsampling bug. If I switched the output of the DVD player to interlaced is it possible that having the D-ILA do the de-interlacing and upsonversion would eliminate this problem?

thedvdguy- No unfortunately, no pictures before the mod. The thread is JVC filter mod or something, just search for it.

You guys have to live with black crush, or live with less then black blacks. That's what prompts us to install the filter mod. Doesn't make the set perfect, but allows up to turn up the brightness enough to get shadow detail, but keeps excess light out of the dark areas.

This should make most of you happy;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=588851

Hey all:

Just ordered my first HD tv yesterday, the 52G786. Been using a reg Toshiba crt tube and a 5-disc sony w/o progressive. Any ideas on what type of dvd player is best under $300. How good is the scaler in the JVC. Should I be looking for an up-converting player. I have a motorola moxi and I'll be using for HD, using the dvi to hdmi connector, so I'll have to stick w/ component or swapp back and forth, which ever has the best picture. Any suggestions. Thanks.


Jonathan

My TV (JVC 61z786) only has one HDMI input. Would I be better off using the HDMI input for my HD DVR/cable box or a DVD player?

If I use the HDMI input for my cable box/DVR, then should I look for a DVD player that upconverts via component, or just get a progressive scan DVD player and let the TV upconvert?

Deanbrew:

I have the same question, I've been out of the loop for a while. I have a moxi that I'll be setting to 720p for the HD. I've heard most players don't upconvert through the component. So does this mean we have to run the signal 480i out of the player so that the JVC can upconvert it?

Jonathan

It seems I've heard that some players upconvert to 720p from component. I know they at least do 480P because it is one of the main reasons to use component.

In my opinion the upconverter in the Sony A10 worked a tad better than that in the JVC but maybe I felt that way because the HD looks so great on the JVC. I've thought of getting an upconvert player but I already have 2 DVD players and am thinking about the PS3 with Blue Ray and the HD-DVD players coming out in the future.

So are most JVC owners here using the lone hdmi input for cable/HD or DVD player connection???

I'm using the hdmi for the STB. It's sharper. Uponverting my old Zenith DVB318 to 1080i through component. I do not recommend the Zenith for this TV, but it's doing the trick for me for now. I have the motorola 6412 upscale to 1080i and let the tv rescale. The moto scaler stinks and doesn't allow pass through signal. Why???? Anyway, an hdmi switch may lie in my future.

Get the Panasonic S77 or S97. I can't remember if it upconverts over component or not, but for under $300 it's one of the best.

I have a Denon which does not have HDMI, so I use HDMI for my cable. If you have both, I'd try the cable with and with HDMI, then try DVD component then HDMI and see what's more important.

Without skimming the 136 pages on the OPDV971H, whats the downside compared to the Panny S77? Can the 52G786 upconvert a 480p signal? I can only use component since I'm going to be using the hdmi connection for the moto moxi. How's the scaler in the 52G786? Mine arriving next week. Is it worth just finding a very good 480i player to send a signal to it and let it convert it. Or send it a 480p?

Saw the new sonys at the BB last night.

The Oppo DV971H is a close second to the Panny. If for whatever reason you don't want the Panny, I would get the Oppo. I don't have much info on it, you should check thier web site or the DVD forum.

So are most JVC owners here using the lone hdmi input for cable/HD or DVD player connection???

I use it for DVD. Optical to the A/V receiver for audio. Component for HD cable box.

The Oppo DV971H is a close second to the Panny. If for whatever reason you don't want the Panny, I would get the Oppo. I don't have much info on it, you should check thier web site or the DVD forum.

I have the S77 and love it. As an alternate, try the NeuNeo HVD208. Ditto on checking out the DVD forum...

Can I do the .6 Kodak ND filter mod without getting my set ISF callibrated? Will it really make a difference?

The reason why i ask is that i heard that if you dont watch your set in a completely dark room after the set is ISF callibrated you get a not so great picture.

Please advise! =)

Thanks!

Darthrsg: I haven't gone in to the service menu yet. I'm not sure what you're talking about. At some point I will to clean things up but I'm a little too ignorant still to go futzing around. Would you mind explaining a little further? Oh yeah, I'm using HDMI from a TWCNYC SA 8300HD. I've noticed that some HD looks light years better than others.

LMDA1 and Kid Red: I looked at the set side by side with a Samsug pedastal. In telecom we have a term, it's pibkac. It means the problem is somewhere between the keyboard and the chair. Basically the TV is fine, especially in comparison to others. I think I've been reading so much about Black levels and shadow detail issues that I've styarted to see problems that aren't there and to exaggerate the ones that are. The only set that was clearly superior is the Qualia and the new SXRD. In my limited experience and in my not very knowledgable opinion.

I'm also using the HDMI from a BHN SA 8300HD. Agree with Gulley that HD quality seems to vary from channel to channel, but then so does regular SD. My Sony DVPNC665P only has component out, but seems almost HD quality. I'm rethinking a purchase of an Oppo or other upscaling player until the new HD players come out.

Gulley, are you letting the SA 8300HD do the scaling -- or is your JVC doing it? My most pleasing picture so far seems to be when the 8300HD is converting everything to 720p. However, I've only had my set a week and haven't extensively compared the two.

-bruce

Can I do the .6 Kodak ND filter mod without getting my set ISF callibrated? Will it really make a difference?

The reason why i ask is that i heard that if you dont watch your set in a completely dark room after the set is ISF callibrated you get a not so great picture.

Please advise! =)

Thanks! Did you hear this with respect to a CRT, or with respect to the JVC? It's hard to believe that the JVC wouldn't have plenty of brightness for daytime viewing even after calibration, but that's just my guess based on what I see on my set. On the other had, I have found light control is much more important with a CRT.

Did you hear this with respect to a CRT, or with respect to the JVC? It's hard to believe that the JVC wouldn't have plenty of brightness for daytime viewing even after calibration, but that's just my guess based on what I see on my set. On the other had, I have found light control is much more important with a CRT.


That is what a TV Tech told me, but I believe he was unaware of the JVC's capabilities and they didnt normally work on JVC's.

Also they want to charge me like over $300 and said it would take like 5 hours to do. I told him that there was less to configure... There is another place I am going to talk to that specializes in JVC's.

Ok, so i really don't know what i am doing to much, but i did a lot of reasearch, and to me the 786 seemed like the best value. I saw it at BB and i liked it alot. I just got it yesterday, and i have a few questions. What are the little tiny boxes on the screen. There are thousands of them. Is that how the screen is made or is it how its projected? I didn't see it at BB, but i was also farther away then where i am sitting now. The problem is i can't sit any farther away. Is there a way to reduce what i see? Sorry if this post is oonfusing.

I think you're referring to the pixels. Yes, that's what makes up the picture. I have to be about two feet or closer from screen to see them. If you can see from viewing distance, something isn't right. There are actually around a million of them.

Did you return your Sammy for this set? What source are you viewing and how is it connected?

If you plan on only viewing analog cable, I would suggest buying an anolg TV. These things are made for HD and anolog generally stinks. Surprised you didn't see that in your research. Most, if not all, fixed pixel projections will be sub par on analog.

Yea, i returned my sammy for this set. I am not talking about standard definition tv. I know its pretty crappy on this set. I am talking about movies. Granted, i am playing through my xbox hooked up through component cables, but i am still sitting about 7 feet away from the screen.

If you can see pixels on an LCOS set at 7 feet away, I don't know what to tell you.

Try a different source???

IMO-7 feet is too close for a 52" JVC.

Well i don't know for sure the pixels are what i am seeing, its just giving everything a washed out kind of blur to it. Its kind of wierd.

Probably SSE.

Probably SSE.
All the time though? I thought it just was a temorary thing you saw every once in awhile? I didn't see any of this at BB though. I am getting aan antenna today to try and pick up some HD channels until my cable company comes to install HD. I will see if there is a problem in HD programs. Do you think the picture would be considerably better with a dvd/hdmi cable combo, or will that not affect the sse or pixels or whatever the hell i am seeing. My roomates all see this to, so it isn't just me.

IMO-7 feet is too close for a 52" JVC.What he said.

What he said.
So is that my problem then? Or is it something else. Is there a way to compensate for it, since i can't sit any farther away. I have a long skinny room.

Can I do the .6 Kodak ND filter mod without getting my set ISF callibrated? Will it really make a difference?

The reason why i ask is that i heard that if you dont watch your set in a completely dark room after the set is ISF callibrated you get a not so great picture.

Please advise! =)

Thanks!

When An ISF technician calibrates your set, he does it for a certain vewing environment. This includes maximizing the detail you an see in darker scenes, and avoiding crushed whites or blacks, by properly setting white level and black level (contrast and brightness).

If you then view the set in a much more brightly lit room, you will find it more difficult to see shadow details, and darker scenes. Conversely in a much dimmer room, the picture may be too bright for you.

Your picture will not look bad however. Just not optimum. Figure out when you do most of your viewing, and when you want the most picture accuracy, and have it calibrated for those conditions.

BB

gfoulks- It's scan rate not input. You can get 480p, 720p and 1080i all while on component input 1 watching cable. When you have HD channels on (720p and 1080i) you'll have calibrated scan rate 1, when you switch to SD or watch a DVD on your 480p player thru component, you'll have calibrated scan rate 2.

gulley- the ND filter filters out light. Essentially, it does not allow a % of light to pass thru it making blacks, blacker. It does not affect your greyscale settings (but will allow you to adjust correctly indirectly improving the greyscale). It does not eliminate black crush, only your settings and calibration will (tho it will improve blacks) It will improve shadow detail if your settings and calibration is accurate. The filter will simply take the light passing thru your blacks away.

You can have a filter mod and still have a crappy muddy, dark picture. You need to have the tv tweaked, adjusted and calibrated and with the filter, you'll enjoy an awesome picture.

Let me share my settings for DVD playback with you as I seem to accomplish the same effect without the filter mod

JVC Theatre Pro (HDMI)
Color + 7
Picture +3
Brightness -3
Detail 0

Denon DVD-2910
White Level -1
Contrast -2
Brightness +8
Chroma +1

Turning the brightness up on the JVC produces a washed out picture with a gray background, while turning the brightness up on the source adds shadow detail and eliminates a large percentage of the banning and digital noise while maintaining black level.

when using HDMI it is very important to use a DVD player with better video processing and video scaling the JVC has. I definitely recommend the Denons for HDMI.

So is that my problem then? Or is it something else. Is there a way to compensate for it, since i can't sit any farther away. I have a long skinny room. Are you seeing the boxes with every source, including HD sources?

Do you see them even on scenes with a darker background, or primarily on scenes with a lighter background?

Do you see them all over the screen or just on certain parts of the screen?

LMDA! & KidRed, what exactly is the noise that's in some reds? Is there a way to fix it. I see it all the time.

SSE typically appears as a kind of shiny, speckley appearance of tiny closely spaced dark dots in bright (typically white) areas of the picture and has a silky texture. Boxes would seem to suggest SDE but these would only be visible on the JVC D-ILA from about 0-3' away. Otherwise, it could be blocking/pixelation or noise like you get from a poor source.SSE on a D-ILA or a DLP? :eek: I believe that is a trait of LCD RPTV's.
Isn't that right AkaStp? :rolleyes:

LMDA! & KidRed, what exactly is the noise that's in some reds? Is there a way to fix it. I see it all the time.

It's noise. Yes, there is a service menu adjustment for noise in blues and for noise in reds. After my ISF calibration, I can't remember the last time I saw noise in the shadows like I was used to.

I think the interpretation of what SSE is varies widely. To me, it is any artificial "stationary" screen object in relation to the moving images behind it, that is not attributed directly to the pixel structure itself (SDE). In that regard, DLP certainly does suffer from this aberration, although not to nearly the same extent that RPLCD does. The quality of the anti-glare protective component of the screen is certainly an important factor.

It is a very sad affair when most of the issues the consumer has to deal with regarding the muti-thousand dollar expendenture that HDTV's represent are actually due to poor quality control and substandard components rather than technological limitations.

I don't think this is "poor quality control". If anything it might be more a 'cost' issue because WE, the consumers want it cheaper!

Okay - had my set ISF'd Friday and I have to be honest... I'm not all that impressed with what I got. I could have achieved the same results by using the Spyder calibration tool.

My tech really couldn't do much other than adjust the RGB drives. He kept mentioning that registers in the manual wouldn't do anything when he tried to make adjustments. Plus the fact that he couldn't make a decoder changes.

I should have spent the money on a Spyder calibration tool and made the RGB adjustments myself.

I think the interpretation of what SSE is varies widely. To me, it is any artificial "stationary" screen object in relation to the moving images behind it, that is not attributed directly to the pixel structure itself (SDE).

I have seen a few sparkly pixels in bright regions of color on my 52G786. This was while watching an anime DVD. It wasn't always there (even during the same scene). Is that what people are calling SSE?

As for the blurring and blocking that someone else is having, maybe its just an issue of the source? What if you plugged in something else? How about standard TV signals?

Okay - had my set ISF'd Friday and I have to be honest... I'm not all that impressed with what I got. I could have achieved the same results by using the Spyder calibration tool.

My tech really couldn't do much other than adjust the RGB drives. He kept mentioning that registers in the manual wouldn't do anything when he tried to make adjustments. Plus the fact that he couldn't make a decoder changes.

I should have spent the money on a Spyder calibration tool and made the RGB adjustments myself.That's one reason I bought a $600 B&K HD signal generator. So I could do it myself. Maybe not as precise as a ISF calibrater (it doesn't have a DVI out), but I'm a DIY'er, especially with elcetronics.
As far as this SpyderTV; jurys' out.

It's noise. Yes, there is a service menu adjustment for noise in blues and for noise in reds. After my ISF calibration, I can't remember the last time I saw noise in the shadows like I was used to.

Do you know how I adjust those without getting the set ISF'd?

I don't think this is "poor quality control". If anything it might be more a 'cost' issue because WE, the consumers want it cheaper!

It has nothing to do with what we want, competition is the only reason the prices even seem realistic to us now. Check the original suggested retail price of the set you currently own, and then tell me truthfully if you would actually pay that for it.. Was the quality control better when the set was first released then it is now at approximately two thirds the original price?

The fact is that the set you see on a display floor can only be considered a representation of what "might" be installed in your home due to the poor quality control. Tilted screens, premature bulb failures, loud fans, circuitry induced noise, anti-glare screen clarity, etc.. could all be considered quality control issues. This also extends to picture quality in general, which is really only apparent if you have had the chance to check out two examples of the exact same set using standard test patterns.

I am not implying that this is in any way limited to one specific manufacturer.
If you want to see an example of substandard components, take a close look at the anti-glare screen used on some of the less expensive LG's. :)

After reading about 15-20 pages of this thread...it seems to be alot of QC issues with JVC...I have my Samsung HLR6768 going back tommorrow for a refund and was thinking the 70" HD-70FH96 could of been my next purchase...but I don't know anymore...how is JVC with service??? Would you buy a JVC again??? Please be honest!!!

SSE on a D-ILA or a DLP? :eek: I believe that is a trait of LCD RPTV's.
Isn't that right AkaStp? :rolleyes: I believe that I see SSE on my 61" D-ILA in bright scenes. It is my understanding, however, as pointed out by Mechanic, that this relates to the anti-glare aspect of the screen. For me, a little SSE on occasion is minor compared to the glare problems I used to have with my CRT, and also compared to the glare problems I saw on almost every DLP in the stores. Assuming my understanding is correct, this seems like another area where one has to pick one's poison. Some may be able to control light well enough so that they can eliminate glare, leading them to choose a set that does not have SSE (everything else being equal). For me, I like to watch football and other sports on Saturday and Sunday afternoon, and like the fact that I don't have to shut all the shades in the house on a beautiful day to eliminate glare off the screen.

After reading about 15-20 pages of this thread...it seems to be alot of QC issues with JVC...I have my Samsung HLR6768 going back tommorrow for a refund and was thinking the 70" HD-70FH96 could of been my next purchase...but I don't know anymore...how is JVC with service??? Would you buy a JVC again??? Please be honest!!! My JVC 61" D-ILA has been perfect. I don't have a single issue with the set in terms of any QC issues. I would buy one again. Remember, you typically hear from folks on these threads who have problems; thus, it is questionable whether one can assume based on this thread that there are a lot of QC issues with JVC (or with any other set for that matter). :)

My JVC 61" D-ILA has been perfect. I don't have a single issue with the set in terms of any QC issues. I would buy one again. Remember, you typically hear from folks on these threads who have problems; thus, it is questionable whether one can assume based on this thread that there are a lot of QC issues with JVC (or with any other set for that matter). :)Thanks...its good to heard that you are satisfied with your set...how has it been with fast action scences like football/hockey...I have never seen a JVC with a decent source...I have only seen it at BB.

Thanks...its good to heard that you are satisfied with your set...how has it been with fast action scences like football/hockey...I have never seen a JVC with a decent source...I have only seen it at BB.
When I first got it, I saw a few artifacts with fast action, even on HD. This surpirsed me, because I had never seen this at the retail outlets, and I had watched carefully for this and other issues. The artifacts diminished over time, and by the first week, they were gone. In fact, I noticed the picutre on all sources improved after the first week or two, irrespective of my adjustments with the picture controls. I attiribute this to the set breaking in over time, which seems to be a characteristic of these sets and perhaps most of the new digital sets. In any event, I have no problems with fast actions scenes on HDTV. Actually, every time I watch sports on HDTV on this set, I keep commenting to my wife things like "Look at that picture!" It's really great to watch. I really don't have problems with fast action on any other sources as well, although analogue SD or the compressed digital SD feeds you get sometimes see on DirecTV are bad enough that I'm not sure if I could distinguish between artifacts associated with fast action and the krappy nature of the source intself.

Thanks...its good to heard that you are satisfied with your set...how has it been with fast action scences like football/hockey...I have never seen a JVC with a decent source...I have only seen it at BB.

I just got the 52" one from BB. The picture is great. A little bright, but colors are good and no lagging. I haven't had it really adjust it. I'm not a videophile in anyway, but like to see a good picture.

If you're in the Chicago area and interested in the 52", check out Fry's in Downer's Grove. They have it on sale for $2100.

Michael

I just got the 52" one from BB. The picture is great. A little bright, but colors are good and no lagging. I haven't had it really adjust it. I'm not a videophile in anyway, but like to see a good picture.

If you're in the Chicago area and interested in the 52", check out Fry's in Downer's Grove. They have it on sale for $2100.

MichaelCool but I need a 70" and prefer the 1080p...I have a Samsung 67" now but it is going back tomorrow...I sit 14 feet away from the screen so 61" will work but 70" is perfect for my viewing. Thanks!

After being on the Samsung DLP bandwagon the past 3 years it was finally time to make my purchase and lo and behold I've found the JVC to be a better choice! :cool:

Economics is a *huge* factor for me so I am goint to buy this TV using an online retailer. So I am finally at the point where I can pull the trigger and buy this baby.....

So I was set to make the purchase from buydig after hearing some very positive experiences for $1939 {52g886}(inc delivery). I had been tracking the price every day. Today I whip out the credit card and it's no longer available! :eek:

So I am looking at some other online retailers which net about the same. Has anyone had good experiences with either butterflyphoto, 6th Ave, or Abes of Maine? THANKS!

Glenn

I think that Buydig has a pretty good price on the 56G786, in fact, I would say that an additional 4" for ~$300 is pretty good no matter what set you are looking at. That same set is priced at over $3K at BB, and typically sells for at least $500 more than the 52". That kind of cost savings does come at a penalty though. A ten day return policy is really not something I find acceptable with a purchase of any HDTV, and I am not into shipping huge items like that back and forth anyway. :)

Buying from a local B&M does have an advantage in that if you decide you do not like the set for some reason, you can return it, which also consists of them picking the set up if you had it delivered. The 30 day return policies at most B&M's is plenty enough time to determine if the set will meet your needs and expectations. I dont think that anyone can really determine this for sure without actually having the set in their own viewing environment for a few days.
If there were enough B&M's in town, you could have a brand new set every month for the cost of the delivery fee, but then that would make one a very naughty consumer. :)

So I am looking at some other online retailers which net about the same. Has anyone had good experiences with either butterflyphoto, 6th Ave, or Abes of Maine? THANKS!
You can check these sites ratings at resellerratings. Butterfly has great pricing but one thing I notice is they charge about double the normal rates for the extended warranty - you may want to contact them and try and bargain down their extended warranty as they are way overpriced compared to other on-line retailers for the warrantech which you can buy also on your own from warrantech I think. :)

Since you can extend the JVC warrantee for an additional fee (at least according to their web site), that is also something to consider. Anyone know how much the extended warrantees for the 52" cost if purchased direct from JVC?

Spudly:

Keep checking pricegrabber and yahoo shopping daily. I ordered my JVC 52G786 for $2025 shipped last week, but I guess they must of changed the price. The price was cheaper too using pricegrabber instead of going directly to the site. I ordered through beachcamera.com, which is the same company as buydig. And they're listed on JVC site as an authorized dealer, check the zipcode. The 52G786 is still available at buydig, just $160 more.

Didn't buy the extended warranty, (way to expensive and most sites won't allow you to buy just the bulb replacement Ext. warranty by itself w/o having also to buy an extended plan). I put everything on my american express. They have a double warranty program that covers everything the manufactor would cover, parts & labor for an additional year. You just have to keep a reciept and an invoice statement from your card company. I also called JVC and had them confirm if they cover there bulb replacements, they said they cover all part and labor including bulb life up to a year. So w/ putting it on american express I get an extra year of coverage.

But since you say JVC also offers additional coverage I might check into that too.


Jonathan
Cali

Hey all:

Here's the link for the JVC exnteded warranty program. https://merchant.satisfusion.com/sf/WarrantyCenter/registration/secure/JVC/ESPLookup.jsp

I don't have my new 52G786 yet, and they require a serial number. So can one of you check on pricing, see how much the warranties costs and what they cover? Thanks.


Jonathan
Cali

Quick question:

I really like the JVC 52" HDTV but I will be sitting 8-11 feet away. Is this too close? Other big problem is the 1080p sets will go as low as 56" and that is way to big for my place, so I'm starting to think that the JVC brand might not be for me simply due to size. Any thoughts?

Perhaps I should wait until 2006 to decide on the right HDTV.......sigh

Quick question:

I really like the JVC 52" HDTV but I will be sitting 8-11 feet away. Is this too close? Other big problem is the 1080p sets will go as low as 56" and that is way to big for my place, so I'm starting to think that the JVC brand might not be for me simply due to size. Any thoughts?

Perhaps I should wait until 2006 to decide on the right HDTV.......sigh
I sit about 12 feet away from the 61" and am happy with everything but the krappiest SD feeds, but that is a source issue.

Hey all:

Here's the link for the JVC exnteded warranty program. https://merchant.satisfusion.com/sf/WarrantyCenter/registration/secure/JVC/ESPLookup.jsp

I don't have my new 52G786 yet, and they require a serial number. So can one of you check on pricing, see how much the warranties costs and what they cover? Thanks.


Jonathan
Cali

This is what I received from JVC on the HD56G866 I purchased (and absolutly love it!).......

Contract Coverage Length Price Program Benefits
Terms & Conditions
2 Year ConsumerCare Plan (ON SITE - SERVICE) 2 Year $199.99 Program Benefits
View ESP Terms & Conditions

3 Year ConsumerCare Plan (ON SITE - SERVICE) 3 Year $299.99 Program Benefits
View ESP Terms & Conditions

4 Year ConsumerCare Plan (ON SITE - SERVICE) 4 Year $399.99 Program Benefits
View ESP Terms & Conditions

5 Year ConsumerCare Plan (ON SITE - SERVICE) 5 Year $499.99 Program Benefits
View ESP Terms & Conditions

Quick question: I really like the JVC 52" HDTV but I will be sitting 8-11 feet away. Is this too close? Other big problem is the 1080p sets will go as low as 56" and that is way to big for my place, so I'm starting to think that the JVC brand might not be for me simply due to size. Any thoughts?

I sit about 9-10 feet from my 52" JVC. I think that's the perfect size, but that's just me. Anything else wouldn't fit and be too big. Just go to any local place and see how big a 52" will be from 9-11 feet. Seeing a set live is the only way to chose one. OF course, you can always buy it via the internet .

^I've done that with a measuring tape and its hard to decide if a 52" is too big or not. I think the only way is to put it in your living room and see for yourself. I know however that a 56" would be way to big and a 46" would be too small. So either a 50" or 52" HDTV would be just right.

hey gulley what dvr are you using? with the hd tivo and hdmi hookup i get really good blacks on HD and SD there is a little more noise than with component though. as a side note, i followed kid red's mention of the test patterns built into the set and by following the service manual was able to reduce a crap ton of noise over the hdmi and component, the difference was amazing. input a white pattern, set so01 according to manual, the screen will split horizontaly, the upper part of the screen was filled with red and blue sparkles, the cb of reg and cr of reg were defaulted to 57 and turning them down to 30 or so eliminated the sparkles.
hope that helps someone.
Darthsg, this is what I need to do. The problem is I don't have a way to input a white pattern over HDMI. Also, I'm not comfortable, which is unusual for me, messing around with the service menu...yet. However, you were able to make significant improvements via this menu which improved th eproblem? If so that's great. I will definitely want to do this at some point or ahve an ISF tech do it.

That buydig price aint bad. Sears had the 52g886 for 2470 online this week so my price was adjusted down, but I still paid 285 more that your price (not incl ew) at their local B&M. On the other hand, first set was defective and they came and hauled it away and left a new one. Worth 285? to me it was. No repacking or hassle, just a phone call to take that one away and bring me a new one please. From this experience, I have to agree with the QC issues on these sets, but the PQ/price point (including ew) was still favorable to my preferences.

On a side note, I was told they'd have the sxrd's set up next week and will go browse. I would expect a better pq than the d-ila, but doubt it would be enough to sway me. for my hd sports viewing, I'm satisfied (at least for now).

I sit 11' away from a 56". And I also sit 11' away from the 120" FP screen that pulls down in front of it. So I am at a loss at how anyone would consider 10' or so too close for any size RPTV.

BB

Thanks...its good to heard that you are satisfied with your set...how has it been with fast action scences like football/hockey...I have never seen a JVC with a decent source...I have only seen it at BB.

I received my JVC over the weekend and I am very happy. I had originally looked at the Sony LCD but when I saw a football game on it I was NOT impressed. I went with the JVC because of the glowing reviews it got for live sports action and it DID NOT DISAPPOINT!!! I watched the Patriots over the weekend and it was GREAT. I also have watched some baseball playoffs and hockey and they all make me glad I went with this TV. My wife who isn't a big sports fan also thinks that JVC's strength is sports.

My eyeballs rest 9' away from my 56G786 and it's definately not too close for me. I think the 56" fits my room very well.

I'm not trying to start another SSE debate, was just trying to help the poster (ryanvga) try and identify the picture problem he was seeing.I know. That's why I included the " ;) "............So I was set to make the purchase from buydig after hearing some very positive experiences for $1939 {52g886}(inc delivery). Check out their return policy. You buy it it's yours. :( its hard to decide if a 52" is too big or not. I think the only way is to put it in your living room and see for yourself. Cut a piece of cardboard out and lean it up against the wall on the stand you would use or a chair and see if the size is right for you. I ould cut it to the cabinet size and draw a rectangle to represent the picture area. Of course, if you are REALLY good, paint a landscape or some other image. :rolleyes:

^I've done that with a measuring tape and its hard to decide if a 52" is too big or not. I think the only way is to put it in your living room and see for yourself. I know however that a 56" would be way to big and a 46" would be too small. So either a 50" or 52" HDTV would be just right.
I don't have a big living room and my 52" is in the corner, facing the center. At the local big box retailer, the TV was amoungst other different sets. It seemed smaller in that open setting. In my more closed living room, the set seems a bit bigger that experienced at the store. Either way, good luck. It's a great TV.

On a side note, I was told they'd have the sxrd's set up next week and will go browse. I would expect a better pq than the d-ila, but doubt it would be enough to sway me. for my hd sports viewing, I'm satisfied (at least for now).

I've seen the new SXRDs a bunch of times (ABT electronics is local to me and had them for > 1 week now). The brightness and response to fast motion is similar. However, the SXRD is a 1080p tv. I saw a football game (1080i OTA converted to 1080p) and it is INCREDIBLE. So much more detail and sharpness to the picture vs a 720p/1080i set. You're just going to have to pay for it.

I've seen the new SXRDs a bunch of times (ABT electronics is local to me and had them for > 1 week now). The brightness and response to fast motion is similar. However, the SXRD is a 1080p tv. I saw a football game (1080i OTA converted to 1080p) and it is INCREDIBLE. So much more detail and sharpness to the picture vs a 720p/1080i set. You're just going to have to pay for it.
That's interesting. I spent a lot of time comparing the Mits 1080p sets with their 720p sets, and I could not really see the difference. It convinced me that this was not worth the extra $$. I wonder if the SXRD's implementation is better.

I to have not seen a significant difference and decided to save some cash and get my 52G786 and not worry about 1080..Very pleased with the results!

I've seen the new SXRDs a bunch of times (ABT electronics is local to me and had them for > 1 week now). The brightness and response to fast motion is similar. However, the SXRD is a 1080p tv. I saw a football game (1080i OTA converted to 1080p) and it is INCREDIBLE. So much more detail and sharpness to the picture vs a 720p/1080i set. You're just going to have to pay for it.

I didn't really want to start a SXRD thing here but found it interesting that with all the poking around I do in B&M's, I've yet to see one.

My old crt RP had more detail than my new 720p and it's not that big of a deal. while it was only 1080i and not "p", it was ISF calibrated so they'll prolly look similar. Never experinced any PQ issues in fast action either (I'm a sports viewer). The colors, brightness, and depth to the JVC were enough to win me over, as well as the no burn in issues (score tickers), great viewing angles and not having to do those pesky convergences. I wasn't planning on an upgrade yet either so this was somewhat of an impulsive buy. 2500 in that category I can live with, but anything over that I start to have second thoughts.

At this stage, I am still not at the set I'll keep long term. Maybe next time but who knows. SED or a trillionP holographic? At some point, the chase will end. But as I said, I'm satisfied for now.

This is a very good TV.

I didn't really want to start a SXRD thing here but found it interesting that with all the poking around I do in B&M's, I've yet to see one.
...
This is a very good TV.

Don't get me wrong, I love my JVC 52G786 and found it better than the 3LCD projection by sony (stupid SDE) and the Samsung/Mits/Toshiba DLPs (stupid rainbows) for me. I just thought the 1080i material converted to 1080p looked great on the SXRD. 720p looked the same on the JVC and the SXRD.

But for the money, the JVC seemed like a better deal.

there is a poll in the main forum room, the lcos peeps should check it out, the results will go on the HT guys radio/podcast....

I to have not seen a significant difference and decided to save some cash and get my 52G786 and not worry about 1080..Very pleased with the results!

This pretty much sums up my experience as well. Rather than pay the extra $$ and have to wait on the 1080p's I decided to get the 56G786. I'm also very pleased with the set. In a week and a half I have had it, I've seen the PQ getting better as it breaks in.

-bruce

Building a custom cabinet for 61Z886 and can't find dimensioned drawing of the set (even in downloaded owner's manual). Anybody know of any? JVC should take a lesson from Samsung. There's a highly detailed drawing in the back of their DLP manuals.

Tommy

http://www.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=MODL027378&pathId=114&page=2


Width 57 3/8"
Depth 41 1/8"
Height 18 5/8"

I too have had my 56G866 for about two weeks now and have noticed a change in PQ but the change is not for the best. I have noticed that while the colors are still bright they seem to not be quite as sharp and also skin tones now seem to have a orangish glow to them. I also seem to notice more noise distortion, especially in the reds, that I had for the first two weeks. I have not changed anything. All is the same as was for the last two weeks. I have direct tv and view HD on OTA.
Any body else notice this? Does this sound like there may be a problem or is it possible that now that I've used it for a couple of weeks that the true PQ is coming through and perhaps I should try adjusting accordingly? I preferred the way it looked to what I am seeing now.
I do love this set, but am a bit disappointed in the current PQ.

http://www.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=MODL027378&pathId=114&page=2


Width 57 3/8"
Depth 41 1/8"
Height 18 5/8"


I checked the attachment, and they want 150mm clearance on the sides of the set???? I am planning to put this TV in a custom cabinet as well. I plan to make the wood sides as tight as possible, with a movable wood shelf above (also very tight). I will have more than a foot of clearance in the back. Does anybody see any issues with this type of installation?

TIA.

I checked the attachment, and they want 150mm clearance on the sides of the set???? I am planning to put this TV in a custom cabinet as well. I plan to make the wood sides as tight as possible, with a movable wood shelf above (also very tight). I will have more than a foot of clearance in the back. Does anybody see any issues with this type of installation?

TIA.
When you say there will be a foot of clearance in the back, is there a place for the heated air produced by the lamp to go, or is the cabinet going to be entirely closed in the back? Also, when you say the wood sides and top are going to be as tight as possible, I assume you mean as tight as possible to the front of the cabinet, which is the widest point, right? The TV angles sharply inward on boths sides after the first few inches, and downward from the top, but I assume your cabinet is going to to straight back from where it meets the front side of the set and the top?

When you say there will be a foot of clearance in the back, is there a place for the heated air produced by the lamp to go, or is the cabinet going to be entirely closed in the back?
It will be entirely closed in the back, but it's a pretty big airspace (it's a total depth of about 2.5 feet. So I will have that depth minus the depth of the set, which will be flush with the front of the built-in shelving.

Also, when you say the wood sides and top are going to be as tight as possible, I assume you mean as tight as possible to the front of the cabinet, which is the widest point, right?
That's correct.

The TV angles sharply inward on boths sides after the first few inches, and downward from the top, but I assume your cabinet is going to to straight back from where it meets the front side of the set and the top?
Correct again, the cabinet the TV will be in is cube shaped, with the front side open, obviously.

So do you think I'd be okay? I assume heat dissipation is the only issue to consider here. Thanks.

So do you think I'd be okay? I assume heat dissipation is the only issue to consider here. Thanks.
I struggled with this problem and, in addition to posting a similar question on this forum, also called JVC. The comments led me to believe that there is really no serious concern having the cabinet flush with the top and sides. That is the way I have my JVC in my cabinet, and I have not noticed any problems or any heat build up. In addition to having about 18 inches of space in the back, however, my cabinet is open in the back and sits away from the wall about 4 or 5 inches. Thus, there is more a less a fairly large "chimney" for any heat to escape. Comments from JVC and others indicate that this is important, and frankly, I would be concerned about placing the set in a completely enclosed cabinet with no means of ventilation (such as a duct or a fan). It is also my understanding that all of the digital TV's that use lamps present this potential issue. I will say that if you move your hands around a JVC set that has been running for awhile, there is virtually nothing that is warm to the touch except for the very back where the exhaust is, but if there was no ventilation at all, I suspect that area could get hot, or that heat build up could be a problem.

I would not place this set in a confined area. It looks like Bruce's post on the last page was from the mfg. These things run hot and need to draw and exhaust room temp air to cool. If you go against the mfg's specs, they will more than likely deny any subsequent heat related claims.

*edit* Just read Smitty's post. Air flow through the back looks like it'll work, but having no rear or side ventilation will cause overheating.

I will have an adjustable shelf over the top of the TV. I will make sure that doesn't extend all the way to the back, in effect creating the same type of chimney that smitty refers to (although my cabinetwould be fully enclosed on the bottom & sides, and open at the top back).

Based on smitty's response, given the amount of airspace behind the TV and this opening, I think I will be okay.

Thanks for the help on this.

I've had my 52G786 for a little over a month now. The set looks great and I am absolutely sure I made the right decision. My last piece of my home theatre is the DVD player. I currently have an old Toshiba SD 1600 which is non-progressive scan, which I have to do something about, quick. I bought the tv at BB and signed up for their rewards program, thinking I would put the bonus towards a DVD player. This past weekend in the Chicago Tribune they had a glowing review of the Oppo player. I have seen some issues with the chip they use and the JVC. I read that some JVC owners have had issues with the Oppo. I asked Oppo if they were aware of any issues with the JVC and they only said that there were problems with the audio when attached directly into the JVC via analog. I guess what I am getting to is, does anyone have the Oppo and what are their experiences. Oppo told me that if I was to only listen through the TV that I probably shouldn't consider the player at this time. I have a AV reciever that is used for DVD's 95% of the time. Does anyone have audio, video, or both, problems with this unit?

In response to your question about the oppo. I have a oppo dvd player and I could not be happier with it, I was not aware of the oppo and jvc having a problem. I guess I will be faced with that also when I purchase my jvc in the next couple of months. I will say the oppo has the best customer service I have dealt with.
Good Luck on Your Choice
rlh149

We just purchased a HD-52G886 3 days ago. Last night, we turned off the TV and noticed a faint white (blurry) triangle with the tip starting in the center of the screen and runs to the bottom of the screen. Only noticeable when the tv is off or during very dark scenes in movies which you can see a faint lightness in the darks. I thought it was a reflection off something in the room but its not. Has anyone else have had this problem.

Sounds like a reflection inside the TV.

BB

Most RPTV's have them, some worse than others.
After all, there are mirrors inside.

As long as you have room around the lower portion of the rear of the set, there shouldn't be a problem with air flow. The top wouldn't matter, but the sides need a small amount of breathing room.

motu88- Is your triangle more like a 'U'? I had an upside down U on my first G52 which was returned and no it's on my replacement set. Like you, it can only be seen at an angle up close with the TV off, or during certain absolute black scenes. This is not normal, but I had the set ISF calibrated and filter modded so I'm not thrilled about having to get it fixed. JVC did say they would replace the screen if I was unhappy, I told them I'd see how it goes. So far, I forget that it is there.

With respect to the question about the Oppo, I got my JVC (61Z575)in late May and ordered the Oppo a few days later. I've got it hooked up with a DVI-HDMI cable. I had to bump the brightness up on the Oppo in order to see the blacker-than-black bars on DVE, and the greens are a little depressed on the color bars. Otherwise, it was very easy to set up. I have noticed some macroblocking, particularly on the DVE menus and occasionally around titles, especially if white on a dark background. Brother Bear was unwatchable, but evidently is a known poorly authored disc. Otherwise, I've been very pleased with the performance of the Oppo. For the price it has been everything I hoped it would be.

What's this "Oppo" player??

Kid red its kind of like a blurry faint triangle only noticed like you said during when the tv is off or very dark scenes. More when you're directly in front of the set. I'm just worried its going to get bigger. I went to the other best buys in the area and they all have some form of the problem. Should I notify JVC and let them know about it in case it get bigger?

Well, I took the plunge on the 52G786 today from TV Authority. After having unsuccessful experiences with LCD and DLP, I'm kinda wary of getting another RPTV, especially from someone over the internet but I've liked what I've read from many of you and I'm getting the EW to calm the nerves. Can't wait for this baby to show me the White Sox in the World Series in HD

Well, I took the plunge on the 52G786 today from TV Authority. After having unsuccessful experiences with LCD and DLP, I'm kinda wary of getting another RPTV, especially from someone over the internet but I've liked what I've read from many of you and I'm getting the EW to calm the nerves. Can't wait for this baby to show me the White Sox in the World Series in HDGO GO White Sox :D

Well, I took the plunge on the 52G786 today from TV Authority. After having unsuccessful experiences with LCD and DLP, I'm kinda wary of getting another RPTV, especially from someone over the internet but I've liked what I've read from many of you and I'm getting the EW to calm the nerves. Can't wait for this baby to show me the White Sox in the World Series in HD

As a Northsider...... I'm rooting for the Sox too. :D Not a native Chicagoan though. I did have a chance to see the MLB game on Fox and Monday night football on ABC using an OTA HD antenna. Even though both are broadcast at 720p, the baseball game seemed clearer and more lifelike. Almost scary... Again, great performance by the TV.

As a Northsider...... I'm rooting for the Sox too. :D Not a native Chicagoan though. I did have a chance to see the MLB game on Fox and Monday night football on ABC using an OTA HD antenna. Even though both are broadcast at 720p, the baseball game seemed clearer and more lifelike. Almost scary... Again, great performance by the TV. I saw the game on FOX HD last night also, and it was great on the JVC set. The picture was absolutely stunning, with great color and detial, as I watched the last Sox batter strike out, the ball be caught by the Angels catcher, the idiot ump signal an out (or at least fail to indicate "no catch" ). . . and then the Sox be given another out. :mad:

I will have an adjustable shelf over the top of the TV. I will make sure that doesn't extend all the way to the back, in effect creating the same type of chimney that smitty refers to (although my cabinetwould be fully enclosed on the bottom & sides, and open at the top back).

Based on smitty's response, given the amount of airspace behind the TV and this opening, I think I will be okay.


I would want an opening near the bottom to allow cool room air to move into the space. Just having the opening behind the shelf doesn't really allow for much air flow.

I would want an opening near the bottom to allow cool room air to move into the space. Just having the opening behind the shelf doesn't really allow for much air flow.

Theoretically, wouldn't the cool air be drawn from the pedastal base (front) as the warm air rises. I hear ya ' though, the more flow the better.

LMDA1 and Kid Red, I watched Sin City last night on DVD. I noticed a green hue or tint in certain parts of the image. It was all over the screen at times and it seemed to me like it happened at certain shades of gray. Is that caused by the Grayscale not being calibrated properly? I haven't watched black and white movies on my JVC before. I don't remember seeing that when I saw Sin City in the theater.

Kid red its kind of like a blurry faint triangle only noticed like you said during when the tv is off or very dark scenes. More when you're directly in front of the set. I'm just worried its going to get bigger. I went to the other best buys in the area and they all have some form of the problem. Should I notify JVC and let them know about it in case it get bigger?

It's a reflection of the inside optics. Most RPTV have it.

:)

Well, I took the plunge on the 52G786 today from TV Authority. After having unsuccessful experiences with LCD and DLP, I'm kinda wary of getting another RPTV, especially from someone over the internet but I've liked what I've read from many of you and I'm getting the EW to calm the nerves. Can't wait for this baby to show me the White Sox in the World Series in HD

You will be pleasantly surprised!!

However, my Infocus 4805 DLP and my kid's Sony 60XBR LCD are serving us well also.

As I stated before, for my bright environment and projected use, the JVC is right for me. For a controlled light environment, DLP will be fine if not preferred.

:)

GO GO White Sox

And whoever plays the cubs!!

Kid red its kind of like a blurry faint triangle only noticed like you said during when the tv is off or very dark scenes. More when you're directly in front of the set. I'm just worried its going to get bigger. I went to the other best buys in the area and they all have some form of the problem. Should I notify JVC and let them know about it in case it get bigger?


Do me a favor, go and press on it. Mine can be moved and it follows the impression of your finger. THe screen is two parts, and it seems the two parts are touching and creating a rainbow where the two pieces have pressured applied. If you can move it, it's not a reflection obviously.

Gulley- Was the green only in corners? Or was the entire image presented with a green tint? If it's just the corners, it sounds like color fringing and deserves a call to JVC. If it's your entire image, then it's most likely your DVD player. I would test with more black and white images, Kill Bill is also good for this.

Do me a favor, go and press on it. Mine can be moved and it follows the impression of your finger. THe screen is two parts, and it seems the two parts are touching and creating a rainbow where the two pieces have pressured applied. If you can move it, it's not a reflection obviously.


That almost sounds like it could be a polarization effect. Do these sets use any kind of polarizer in the optics?

been a while since i posted, didnt realy have anything to contribute, but now i have picked up a 56g786 locally. not good at drawing a line in the sand & purchasing spending so much time here & seeing whats around the corner. made a deal with my dad after showing him this set that i would sell him this set at a greatly reduced price a year from now & i'll get a 1080p set. so my first impressions having it at my house... between dlp, lcd, & lcos, this was the set that made the most sense in my head. i am happy with the purchase, with the realization of black levels not being the best with no nd mod & minimal adjustments ( turning off all the digital enhancements & dropping the picture, detail, & brightness settings in standard mode ). will avia or dve it. i do have one stuck blue pixel in the lower right quadrent only visible in pure white or black scenes. pending on my next post with a real issue, i can live with it since i really like the hd image this set produes & other problems i may encounter. no bowing on standard def material, the left side is square, the right side is about 1/4 inch wider at the bottom than the top. the sse is minimal but occasionally visible, an uneducated eye probably wouldnt notice it. so if you are on the fence about this set, i'd give it a try. i did get a 4 year extended warrenty that includes 2 bulbs. pretty liberal in my opinion, 2 bulbs would cost more than the warrenty. dont want dad to have issues he has to pay for. they must not be aware of the problems the current jvc sets are experiencing. hopefully the reports of a new vendor for longer lasting bulbs is true. thats my initial impression, now on to the issue...

had a cable card installed 2 days ago ( wednesday ) with minimal issues. the first hit got the channel names, & the second hit got the names & the video from the channels, both analog & digital including hd. was a rush deal since this was over lunch. got home later that evening & got the optical output from the set hooked to my yamaha rxv-995 & noticed i had sound for the upper ( 100+ ) channels & no sound for the lower channels. well, that made sense since i did not have the analog out of the set to the 995. ( i do have cable connections to both the cable in & the atsc in on the set ) watched invasion in hd & was impressed. thursday went to confirm that i had no sound on the analog channels & found that when i go from the upper channels to the lower channels the sound remains on the last upper channel when i change to a lower channel. the video is of the lower channel, but the sound remains on the upper channel. i hooked up the analog connection from the 786 to the 995 & there was no difference. both the analog & digital sound are hooked to the tv input on the 995. tried power cycling ( turning off the power on the surge suppressor for a real power off of the 995 & 786) after the set shut its fans off. well... the set would not turn on, had to remove the cable card, powered it on again & it fired up up, then shut it down & replaced the cable card & it came up. when i power the set down on a lower channel & fire it up i get sound from the lower channels but as soon as i go from lower to higher, i can not go back to a lower channel with sound without power cycling the set & starting from a lower channel. i did keep my digital cable box for the guide so i could probably work around it, but this sounds like an issue for a firmware update. anybody else with this set & a cablecard ? or am i missing something ?

ok gulley here it is, thanks for being patient.WRITE YOUR ORIGINAL SETTINGS DOWN

first off i dont have a way to input a 1125i all white pattern, but i can input a 1125i signal via HDTiVo.

start with a 1125i signal over component or HDMI, i adjusted both, and there are similar settings for other scan rates

set the set to standard picture mode, full screen, low color temp

get in service menu press sleep timer, then press display and video status at the same time.

choose option 1 adjust
get into the s0 set of registers, they will probably be up already

set the s001 from 000 to 012(cb offset), as you adjust to this value the screen will go through some changes, when you get to 012 the upper half of the screen will be pinkish and the bottom half will be normal

on my set the pink area had lots of square pixels dancing around(noise)

go to s013 by pressing down, 1125i cb offset, adjust up or down by pressing left or right, you should see the noise change color

go to s014, 1125i cr offset, adjust it the same way

those two registers are linked, go back and forth until the noise is gone, you will still have the pink top half of the screen

once the noise is gone press mute to save

after doing this i noticed less pixelation on HD and DVD, it did not seem to help SD

there are many more built in test/setup patterns in the service menu, but definetly
record the settings that are in your set beforehand so you can go back. hope this helps you and others.

Been a long time reader of this thread, and I finally pulled the trigger this week on the 52G886. I am very happy with this set so far, it has met or exceeded all expectations. I'm still playing with settings and configurations, but my next "big" step to connect my MythTV box to it.
Does anyone have Linux modelines that are working with this set? I've tried quite a few, with no luck so far.

Thanks

Popped by the local best buy today (wanted to check out Serious Sam 2 and FEAR). Anyhoo, browsed the sets and came home to mine. They had ESPN ballgame on and my 52G looks as good to me as most of the sets there, including the 1080p's. Saw the SXRD for the first time but the connection must have been bad. I didn't think the "dumbo ears" were so bad though. Still, the JVC was next to it and even at 720P, for casual HD sports watching, there was not a huge diff. Not bashing the SXRD at all. I would own one and be happy, but I was expecting more from reading the "in a league of it's own" type posts.

Note:broadcast was in 720P so that might make a difference.

here is my setup, i have 3 boxes that will output component, a dvd player, hdtivo, xbox, the dila has 2 component inputs. i focus on dvd and a few sd season passes along with the occasional hd documentary, these comprise most of my viewing. the sd over hdmi from hdtivo is not that good, its watchable but not great, i cant tell the difference for hd. the sd over component via hdtivo is really good for d* so i am leaning towards this connection. the issue is to keep xbox or dvd on component or go svideo for dvd as i cant tell any difference except that my player passes blacker than black over svideo and fails over component, this is not the end of the world in my book but would like some feedback. as it is now the hdtivo and dvd are on the same input so i put tivo to standby to watch dvd, the audio is optical from tivo and coax from dvd and they are mapped to the same input on my reciever to eliminate input switching on the set and av box. is it blasphemy to take a hit like that on dvd playback? gaming is almost a non factor due to school and work that will change when the ps3 and 360 are out and im out of school this summer. it seems to me that the dila does a damn fine job of dvd over svideo and is easier to control being on the same input as the tivo. does anybody else have these issues or remedy besides a component switcher? the harmony remote would solve a lot of it but the old lady insists that i wait until santa brings his arse to town. HELP! thanks in advance for feedback.

Quick question:

I really like the JVC 52" HDTV but I will be sitting 8-11 feet away. Is this too close? Other big problem is the 1080p sets will go as low as 56" and that is way to big for my place, so I'm starting to think that the JVC brand might not be for me simply due to size. Any thoughts?

Perhaps I should wait until 2006 to decide on the right HDTV.......sigh


im 9 feet from the 52 it is great

Has anyone done the Neutral Density Filter mod on the JVC yet? If so how well did it work and what size filter did you need as well as what if any problems did you encounter doing it?

I love our new 61" display but it is really on the bright side and a little hard on the eyeballs.

Thanks

why should i buy the newer Gx86 vs the older Zx86 ?

new features vs higher price ?

thanks

chronos, let it break in for a week or so. when i got mine it literally hurt my eyes for a few days until it calmed down. you should see an improvement in PQ as well, it wont hurt to tweak with avia or dve until then, and then re-tweak after it breaks in.

Projection lamps have an initially steep brightness dropoff in the first 50-100 hours. Like Darth says, run it a bit. Mine could not be run in a darkened room for a week or two, and I like a bright image. It now can, without actual pain anyway.

BB

Has anyone tried a SONY DVP-NS70H with a JVC D-ILA TV? If so, how extreme is the shift (if any)? Thanks.

Has anyone tried a SONY DVP-NS70H with a JVC D-ILA TV? If so, how extreme is the shift (if any)? Thanks.

I answered your question in the Sony DVP-NS70H Shift Issue Discussion (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6375385&&#post6375385) thread. Here's a recap.

I have a HD56G786 and the "shift" issue does occur with the DVPNS70H. It's rather slight and I could only notice it with the blue Sony background. My picture is tilted slightly on my screen and I can see a gap at one corner that changes size as I change the resolution.

The issue with this DVD player is not whether it shifts the screen ever so slightly. The issue with this DVD player is the crumby job it does of scaling and deinterlacing. My JVC TV does about as good a job of it.

ok gulley here it is, thanks for being patient.WRITE YOUR ORIGINAL SETTINGS DOWN

first off i dont have a way to input a 1125i all white pattern, but i can input a 1125i signal via HDTiVo.

start with a 1125i signal over component or HDMI, i adjusted both, and there are similar settings for other scan rates

set the set to standard picture mode, full screen, low color temp

get in service menu press sleep timer, then press display and video status at the same time.

choose option 1 adjust
get into the s0 set of registers, they will probably be up already

set the s001 from 000 to 012(cb offset), as you adjust to this value the screen will go through some changes, when you get to 012 the upper half of the screen will be pinkish and the bottom half will be normal

on my set the pink area had lots of square pixels dancing around(noise)

go to s013 by pressing down, 1125i cb offset, adjust up or down by pressing left or right, you should see the noise change color

go to s014, 1125i cr offset, adjust it the same way

those two registers are linked, go back and forth until the noise is gone, you will still have the pink top half of the screen

once the noise is gone press mute to save

after doing this i noticed less pixelation on HD and DVD, it did not seem to help SD

there are many more built in test/setup patterns in the service menu, but definetly
record the settings that are in your set beforehand so you can go back. hope this helps you and others. I tried that, but if you do it too exreme, you notice that the colors are different! I ended up setting it back to the factory setting.

digital, i just adjusted mine about 10 or so points down from where they were and have not noticed any color difference, if you roll through the settings of s013 or s014 without inputing the pattern from s001 adjust, you can see a color change in the midpoint of adjustments. i went back and forth when adjusting it on my set one point at a time until all the noise was gone but not before seeing what each register did.

If it is not any trouble would everyone post there bulb life so far.
My first one went 2 weeks ago and now i feel paranoid about using it.
Do the replacement bulbs that jvc send perform better than the shipped in set bulbs?
I have read posts about the difficulty in getting replacments, though i did not.
Will JVC send another after the replacement goes or is it time to buy?

Hi all:

My JVC 52G786 arrived today at my house. Going to put it through its paces tonight and read the manual in and out. Off the top of your head, any settings or adjustments I need to turn on or off. I'm going to use DVE on it tonight and agian in a couple weeks after it breaks in a bit. I have a Panny s77 arriving tommorow and have a moto moxi ready to use. Been using a 36" 4:3 toshiba for the last 5 yrs. Thanks for any tips.

Jonathan
(Cali)

Hi. New to this site, but not to the subject..

Just received my HD-56G786 last Friday. I've followed the experiences on this thread as far as adjustments are concerned, and the results have been pretty good. My problem, whatever adjustments I make via the user menu appear not to be "saved" when the set gets turned off. For example, I adjust detail from 0 to -25 (on all video settings), it's fine while I'm watching, but I turn the set off for the night, when I turn it on next day, detail setting is back to 0 (for all video settings). Same for other settings, such as setting the blue power light to low..

I must admit, it's a busy time right now and I haven't had much time to read up on this, but does is this just a user error or is there something wrong? I have not called anyone on this yet, as I suspect (hope) it's my ignorance..

Thanks for any guideance.

Pat

pandgora, are you letting it shut down normally and not killing the set by pulling the plug? that is the only thing i can come up with.

darthrsg,

Thanks for the reply. If shutting it off normally means pushing the "off" button, than that is what I'm doing. The fan runs on for 30-60 seconds afterward, there doesn't appear to be anything unusual happening.. All of a sudden I'm not feeling good about this...

Hi,

I have a JVC PD42WX84 which is now 2 years old. Of course, after a year when the warranty ran out, it failed to power up. $900 later, a JVC authorized shop replaced the main processor board. Then, after a couple months use, I started seeing what I call a "dirty screen" on startup; i.e., you can see the broadcast show but through lots of black pixels scattered randomnly about. I can clear this up by switching to an alternate video input, wait a bit and then return to normal viewing.

I called the shop and they don't have a clue what is causing this, but seem to know that it's not because of the main processor board..i.e., their work. I'm reticent return the unit for additional work at this shop.

I have a Comcast 6412 unit feeding the display through the JVC receiver. Any opinions on what may be causing this and what I need to do to both avoid it and keep it from destroying the display entirely?

I also get macroblocking from time to time, so am wondering if a strong signal is causing problems overall.

Many thanks!

Pandgora,

Any power outages (sp?) overnight? I had this happen to my set and to my microwave clock but not to other clocks, so it must have been very brief. Running through a surge protector and it was still lit as OK when the power restored. Does it happen every time? Also, this may sound silly, but you don't have it connected to an outlet with an on/off switch that someone else may be throwing inadvertantly do you?

Anyone measure the current comsumption when these units are off (with a DVM or amp meter)?

Long time lurking and PM'er, but first time poster. I have been told by Dish tech support that their top end receiver, the 942 has known HDMI audio problems. Temporary to total loss of sound through HDMI, with no time frame to fix, but they are trying to fix asap. I have 52" G, 3 mo. I run HDMI to the JVC and Toshlink from the JVC to my Onkyo. One tech told me to run component and non digital as back up when the sound goes out, through another JVC input. Another Tech said that could create a "loop" that could degrade the video signal. Any thoughts? No one else run into this problem? For Dish to openly admit to a known problem with no known fix I thought I would have read something like this in the forum by now.
Thanks
Chris

I got my 52G886 a couple of weeks ago. Loved it at first but am now having some concerns and questions...

> PQ on HD is awesome but most channels are SD. Some of the cable channels really look like sh**! This seems to be a common complaint among all the Toshiba and Samsung DLP folks as well as JVC. Do CRT projection sets have the same problem?

> PQ varies tremendously not only from channel to channel but even scene-to-scene, angle-to-angle. I find myself constantly adjustng rather than watching. Any suggestions?

> Whites are awfully bright. Watching Michigan-Penn State on Saturday, the Penn State guys loooked like they were popping out of the screen and weren't clear when viewed in a long shot. No matter what I tried settings-wise, the ref's hat look like it glowed. Any suggestions?

> I notice everyone recommends the low color temperature. Why? I think it gives a yellow cast to everything. Hockey ice looks like someone peed in the Zamboni, while with High temp it looks like ice does in person. Am I missing something?

> What is this service menu I'm reading about? How do I get to it and is it wise for me to try to tweak it myself? Or, would a professional calibration be worth it and solve a lot of the aforementioned issues? How long should I wait 'til the set is broken in?

> How do I print this entire thread? It seems I can only do one page at a time.

Thanks in advance for any help...

GO SOX!

get avia or dve or both, do the self calibrations.
SD is SD(standard), it will not look as good on an rptv no matter the source if it D* or cable.
for color temp use what you like, movie fans like the low setting, try the standard picture mode for SD, turn your detail all the way down
these will help get you started, get avia or dve though will greatly help out, hope that helps.

the 942 is buggy, go to the dbs forum for more info, though if yours is working keep using it, there are some issues with hdmi and audio but they go across the board. the hdtivo hdmi ports have problems too

quick question, does anyone know the hdtivo remote code that will turn the jvc on? i can get the input button working and i can turn it off but i cant turn it on.

I got my 52G886 a couple of weeks ago. Loved it at first but am now having some concerns and questions...

> PQ on HD is awesome but most channels are SD. Some of the cable channels really look like sh**! This seems to be a common complaint among all the Toshiba and Samsung DLP folks as well as JVC. Do CRT projection sets have the same problem?

I have this same issue - I'm a sports fanatic and unfortunately most channels (ie Fox sports regionals, ESPNC, CSTV, OLN, ESPNews, etc) only come in SD on Time WArner. I have had 2 sets so far in my living room that I have returned- the Sony 50" RP LCD A10 and an "old school" RP CRT SAmsung 47". Both had questionable SD quality, but really good HD quality. You really forget how good CRT tubes are at SD - when I returned those sets and went back to my Sharp 32" CRT, it was like putting glasses on - so much clearer. No RPTV can do as good a job on SD as CRTs. I'm thinking of giving the 52G786 a shot and just live with that. Best buy has a good sale right now with stand included (and 2 free DVDs and cheap DVD player...for kid's room). I'm also wondering about the quality of these sets and bulb life. I just can't bring myself to buy a Samsung DLP due to their very questionable ethics as a company. I'm in the semiconductor industry and they are a known "cheater" as evidenced by their recent $300M fine by the US government for price fixing.

Just got word on pricing from my local VO store on the consumer versions (Seattle area):
56" = $3399
61" = $3799
70" = no data, but likely at or below $4399 since thats where the 70 something Toshiba 1080p DLP is priced.

They said they should be receiving the 56 and 61 'anyday'.

Sorry... consumer version 1080p's.....
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Just got word on pricing from my local VO store on the consumer versions (Seattle area):
56" = $3399
61" = $3799
70" = no data, but likely at or below $4399 since thats where the 70 something Toshiba 1080p DLP is priced.

They said they should be receiving the 56 and 61 'anyday'.

Two questions;
For those with HTPC's what resolutions are you running with the HDMI input and how is the overscan?
Can the channel numbers be renamed from those virtual #'s to the actual ATSC channel number?

mkco, the white level is hard to nail down until the set breaks in. it seems to me that most users keep the picture at 0 or less. on my set it stays around -10 to 0. the first couple of weeks though it would hurt my eyes and i would have to squint and all the whites looked the same until it broke in. it is possible to adjust the service menu sub bright setting and give yourself more play in the user control. i do not have the manual for your set but most jvc sets are similar.

The G786 I have now had problems with the HDMI handshake from my nvidia card; result from this was that the picture was substandard at 720p and the sound had intermittent drops. The fonts also appeared to exhibit horrendous amounts of CA. I switched over to component and found that to be quite acceptable at 720p, along with the typical over/under scan compensation required by all microchip based displays: The resulting resolution was 1192 X 664 at 60hz, which gave a perfectly sized desktop. The picture was somewhat softer, and fonts still leave something to be desired, but are quite readable. This set seems to have its share of digital noise, but the Toshiba DLP I had before was much worse.
Note that HDMI interfacing from the STB was not a problem at all, handshake was fine there.

I do not like the remote or the user interface at all. The light gray plastic remote (http://images.bestbuy.com/BestBuy_US/images/products/7276/7276976rca.jpg) has the look and feel of something designed to control a radioshack toy, all buttons are a single white color and most are quite small. It is by far the worst HDTV remote I have seen, even the remote for the Motorola HD STB puts it to shame, and certainly not what you would expect to be included with a multi-thousand dollar HDTV.
No way to select inputs directly or skip inputs, forcing one to scroll through unused inputs via menu manipulation (excruciatingly slow). Toshiba has an acceptable solution here with both numeric entry for input selection from its menu and skip input capability (I still prefer individual input buttons on the remote). Many buttons on the Gx86 JVC remote are rather worthless, who needs to switch sound modes or even CC with their remote when you can just as easily access these "rarely" used (i.e. set once and forget) features in the menu. This waste of remote resources could have been used for the direct input switching that was stupidly removed from the new remote design. The use of slide switches on an AV remote is also a bit ridiculous, IMO.
One can only hope that whoever is in charge of JVC remote design will put down their crack pipe long enough to rectify these thoughtless deficiencies for the 1080p sets.

The ATSC tuner is not seamlessly integrated like the Toshiba or even the Panasonics I have evaluated, one must toggle between modes with the remote. The favorite channel feature would not store the subchannel designations, so it is quite worthless for direct access of the QAM HD channels here. Not sure if a cable card would even help with this?

The strong points of this set are its picture quality, which is a bit better than the RPLCD and DLP products I have examined thus far (all 720p sets) with the exception of black levels where DLP has a significant advantage.
Geometry on this particular set is nearly perfect, tilt was counter clockwise by only a few pixels. Color purity is not ideal, with some very slight visible tinge in the corners. I found that the sound system was borderline acceptable, but most will likely prefer to use the sets sound system as the center channel of an external surround setup. The center channel option seems like an important feature since there is no apparent method to mount a center channel speaker on top of the set.
There is some SSE which is present at about the same level as the Toshiba HM95 DLP I evaluated, but SDE is essentially nonexistent, and of course rainbows are not a problem one would encounter at all with this technology.
A bright vivid picture seems like a pretty nice idea, but the light intensity of this set verges on the absurd.
Perhaps JVC will at least address the digital noise and black levels properly with their 1080p offerings. A "real" remote control might be nice too.

I got a call from my local JVC service center Lake Electronics in Schenectady, NY that they have received a firmware upgrade for my JVC 61Z786. I'm scheduled to get the upgrade on Thursday the 27th. I will post again after the upgrade.

The light gray plastic remote has the look and feel of something designed to control a radioshack toyThat's been noted in more than one review.No way to select inputs directly or skip inputsMy take on that is with the additional inputs there is no room for all those decicated buttons. Try the Mits remote on the 1080 DLP and toggle through ALL of THOSE inputs.Perhaps JVC will at least address the digital noise and black levels properly with their 1080p offerings.I don't know why they haven't put a hi-lo lamp control as Toshiba has done.

Anyone with a ATI card and these sets?

Dedicated input "buttons" are not the real issue here, take the Toshiba HM95 remote for example. It has numbered inputs so selecting any specific input requires only two button presses at most. Like the Panasonics, it also allows for skipping any unused inputs, which makes navigating the menu to chose an input quite acceptable.
The JVC fails miserably since it has none of these interface features, they simply removed the buttons without adding the functionality to make it a valid design change.

Never thought of doing it that way. Neither did JVC..............
See what I have been saying about those "chinsy silver" sets? Now it's a remote............ ;)

How does the ATSC tuner perform other than what you posted; OTA sensistivity, channel change speed and lastly;can you add digital channels without doing a scan (search) ?

Have not tried it with an antenna yet, just straight comcast cable bypassing the STB to pick up the unencrypted HD channels. Signal was around 77 and fairly steady, but I presume this would be an optimal arrangement as far as signal strength is concerned.
Channel change is extremely slow compared to the standard tuner. This is fairly typical of all sets I have evaluated.
I doubt you could even add an analog channel without scanning for it. :)

The problem I pointed out before, with the favorites not recognizing the subchannel could be a slightly aggravating issue (depending on the area/channel lineup). In this area, FOX-HD is on 107-2, and CBS-HD is on 107-5, so it is impossible to set CBS-HD as a favorite. When either channel is added as a favorite, it just appears as 107.. Since it always hits on the first channel it finds in that range, 107-2 is the only one accessable as a favorite in the 107 range. Editing the channel number saved as a favorite to add the sub designation is not possible.

Thanks for the info darthsg!

chaz01,

Finally got a minute to look into this more... As it turns out, we did experience brief power outages on consecutive days (wife didn't mention it), so it may well be related to that..

Kind of strange that none of my other TV's lose their settings when power goes out..

Anyway, just so I have this straight. Are video settings tied to inputs, or to video status (standard, dynamic, theater pro, etc.), or to a combination of both? I have every combination I can come up with to give me options for SD viewing (cable into TV analog, cable into TV using ATSC, STB using component, STB using DVI/HDMI), so if it is tied to input I no doubt have made menu changes then switched inputs and/or video status.

Thanks for the assistance in this matter.

Have not tried it with an antenna yet, just straight comcast cable bypassing the STB to pick up the unencrypted HD channels. Signal was around 77 and fairly steady, but I presume this would be an optimal arrangement as far as signal strength is concerned.
Channel change is extremely slow compared to the standard tuner. This is fairly typical of all sets I have evaluated.
I doubt you could even add an analog channel without scanning for it. :)

The problem I pointed out before, with the favorites not recognizing the subchannel could be a slightly aggravating issue (depending on the area/channel lineup). In this area, FOX-HD is on 107-2, and CBS-HD is on 107-5, so it is impossible to set CBS-HD as a favorite. When either channel is added as a favorite, it just appears as 107.. Since it always hits on the first channel it finds in that range, 107-2 is the only one accessable as a favorite in the 107 range. Editing the channel number saved as a favorite to add the sub designation is not possible.

I have Comcast digital and when I connect the coax directly to the JVC coax cable digital, I got... exactly nothing not a single channel.

If I connect the wall coax to the VHF/UHF coax I got analog channels.

Comcast told me that I need a cable card to receive ANY digital channel. Does it sound right?

Channel changes are slow, real slow.

CBS-HD is 231 where we are, Fox-HD is 234 on the cable box, Motorola 6420.

;)

Mechanic; could you try it with a OTA antenna?
I doubt you could even add an analog channel without scanning for it. The question is; WITHOUT doing a auto scan, can digital channels be reconized by just inputing the channel number as with analog channels (assuming a good signal)? It appears that you can't add a digital channel manually which is a problem with the Mits sets.

Has anyone compared picture quality with a OTA digital channel on this and some other source (other OTA tuner)?

You can not manually add any channels, digital or analog makes no difference. In fact the most you can do is uncheck a channel that was found during the scan. Then again, a digital channel that is present but not broadcasting anything will be picked up by the scan. Like most of these sets, if you key in a subchannel, it will attempt to access it or the closest channel that is broadcasting to it if the desired channel is not broadcasting.

chanc :
My G786 came with a 2-way splitter, and two small cable sections. There were also 3 inline signal attentuators/amplifiers (Tru-Spec 3, 6, & 10 db). In order to scan the ATSC QAM channels successfully, I had to use the splitter and cable sections (they attach to the two RF terminals on the back of the set). In the Auto Tuner Setup pane, I had to set the "In Analog" to "Cable", and the "In Digital" to "Digital Cable" before it would actually scan for the channels properly. In the last "slower" process during the scan, the status display should indicate that it is finding some channels. Then you get to be Holmes and try to locate the subchannels it found durring the scan. Since it picks up dead (not broadcasting but hot signal) channels as well as those actually broadcasting, this can be a tedious process of slowly scrolling through each sub channel. The channel designations (at least for HD channels) will not be numbered the same as they are on your STB.

Comparing this set to the Toshiba HM95 is not really fair. The Tosh has one of the best user interfaces I have ever seen, and with its on-screen tv guide it is simply a dream come true as far as an interface is concerned. I would still have that set, but the horrible digital noise and rainbows were just too much for me to accept.

Anyway, just so I have this straight. Are video settings tied to inputs, or to video status (standard, dynamic, theater pro, etc.), or to a combination of both?
Thanks for the assistance in this matter.


the video settings are tied to scan rate and video status. you can have a setting for each. like 480p dvd, you can have separate settings for standard, theater, dynamic, and game. then 480i, you can have settings for standard, theater, dynamic, game. you get it. same for HD res. this was explained a few pages back, look for kid red posts :)

Mechanic; you can't even add a NTSC channel??

The channel summary lists all of the NTSC channels(1-135), so you could uncheck or check those. You can not add a channel if it is not in the summary list, so if it does not pick up a channel during the scan there is nothing more you could do. There are really no issues there that I can see, just need to do the initial channel scanning is all.
The issue is in the favorite channels like I mentioned before. That is certainly a bug in the interface design. Channel name "labeling" of the ATSC channels is also disabled for some reason. The channel labeling of NTSC works ok, and the XDS ID is sort of an interesting feature. When it actually works for a channel (rare), it will display the channel ID and the name of the current program being broadcast. The XDS ID seems to be limited to NTSC channels.

Some other nice points with this set is that most SD is actually watchable, even when zoomed to full screen. I use the moto STB for this, as the aspect zoom on the TV was not as acceptable for some reason. DVD playback has also been quite impressive though component from a Norcent DP-501M.

when going into the digital setup, in the upper right hand corner i have an f163.
assuming that is some indication of the firmware rev. does anyone have a different number there ?

Mine display's : f168


Its a 52G786.
If they have not got it right with 5 revisions, we may be in trouble. :mad: I think its microsoft's fault. :)

"My G786 came with a 2-way splitter, and two small cable sections. There were also 3 inline signal attentuators/amplifiers (Tru-Spec 3, 6, & 10 db)"

Mechanic,

My G886 came with the 2-way splitter and 2 small RF cables but no signal attenuators/amplifiers. The packing list does not list the attenuators either and neither does the user's manual.

My set was manufactured in July 2005 in Mexico.

I think it's just the way Comcast transmits their signals. I do not get any digital channel even if I connect the the splitter and RF cables as posted.

There is no Motorola STB code for the JVC remote in the manual. If you know of any, please let me know.

I wonder if there is a new firmware upgrade for the GX86 series. I occasionally have a SYN problem in the sub channel for HD using HDMI (self check in the service menu).

Thanks again for your help.

:confused:

I think its microsoft's fault. Obviously.

If someone could try this; start a new OTA scan, cancel it or stop it somehow, enter in a actrual channel number with the sub channel (don't know how to put the '-' in though) and see if the tuner accepts the channel assuming the signal is good.

Separate question, those with HTPC's how sucessfull have you been with a proper showing desktop through the HDMI input?

when going into the digital setup, in the upper right hand corner i have an f163.
assuming that is some indication of the firmware rev. does anyone have a different number there ?

I have f162.

How do I get a firmware upgrade ? Does anybody have any idea?

:confused:

Obviously.
Separate question, those with HTPC's how sucessfull have you been with a proper showing desktop through the HDMI input?

I got it to work once, but now my HDMI input only shows a black screen reguardless of what I put into it.

I just got the JVC 52G786 set a few weeks ago. I've got the Charter Cable card installed and the PQ is fine, but I would like to know if anyone has had one of these sets calibrated by an ISF tech. Currently I have my TV set in standard mode with all settings at default. I've seen a lot of custom settings from this and other forums and have tried them, but everyone's taste are different. One ISF tech I talked to said these sets are hard to calibrate. Before I plunk down $400.00, Will it make much of a difference?

In this area, FOX-HD is on 107-2, ....

Mechanic,

Which area are you in? I use the ATSC/QAM Tuner w/ my basic comcast service and have found all the local networks in HD except for FOX. And do you know if the QAM channel mapping is the same no matter what area/region you are in or is there a way to figure out how an analog channel maps in the QAM domain to a digtial subchannel? I have not been able to find a concrete way of finding how to tell which channels map to which subchannel domain. Other than by using the "Holmes" method ;)

I am in Salt Lake City, Utah. With direct cable feed into the set I can pick up all the local HD's (ABC, NBC, CBS, PBS, FOX), but the STB is required for INHD, INHD2, Discovery HD, TNT-HD, and ESPN-HD. I believe the QAM channel designations are quite location dependant, and even the line up will differ depending on the cable co's individual station broadcast agreements.
It's a tedious process involved in finding all the channels, and I can see no real way to predict this in advance.

I just got the JVC 52G786 set a few weeks ago. I've got the Charter Cable card installed and the PQ is fine, but I would like to know if anyone has had one of these sets calibrated by an ISF tech. Currently I have my TV set in standard mode with all settings at default. I've seen a lot of custom settings from this and other forums and have tried them, but everyone's taste are different. One ISF tech I talked to said these sets are hard to calibrate. Before I plunk down $400.00, Will it make much of a difference?

The JVC sets benefit considerably from an ISF calibration (I performed one on my 56), and BTW the set is quite straightforward to calibrate. Whomever told you they were difficult has either never done one or is trying to charge you extra $.

I got it to work once, but now my HDMI input only shows a black screen reguardless of what I put into it. What was changed from befor to after? Are you using the VGA input?

The JVC sets benefit considerably from an ISF calibration (I performed one on my 56), and BTW the set is quite straightforward to calibrate. Whomever told you they were difficult has either never done one or is trying to charge you extra $.

This is an email that was sent to me from an ISF tech in my area...

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Charles,

I have done a couple of the JVC LCoS sets, though not the model you quoted – one at a local retailer and one for a regular customer. I recently checked out one of the new JVC models (70G886) and found there’s been little change from last year.

The main obstacle in calibrating last year’s JVC sets is that the service menu is pretty limited from a calibration standpoint (for example, no color decoder adjustment) and what is available is only good for one specific signal type, meaning that it is difficult, if not impossible, to properly set up the display for more than one source.

My usual solution to this sort of situation is to get the primary video source (usually either HD cable/sat or DVD) looking as good as possible. Then I check to see where the other sources line up with those settings and determine whether a little compromise would yield a two-for-one (or more). That worked out OK with my previous JVC customer, but mainly because he was 80% interested in DirecTV HD and seldom watched DVDs. DVD color temperature ended up tracking around 7,200K, with a perceptible skew toward green in the black/dark gray range (not good).

That’s really a pity, because I think there’s a lot of picture quality potential with these sets. But some manufacturers just don’t want their TVs to be adjusted to yield an accurate picture, and it seems that JVC is in that camp more than not.

There is a potential workaround solution, and that’s to get an outboard video processor that provides access to all of the key video adjustments on a per-source basis. Lumagen makes great video processor/scalers that are perfect for these sorts of display shortcomings, with the added bonus of far superior scaling performance than what you’re going to get built-in on most displays.

But…even though the scaler/processor market is as competitive and as wallet-friendly as it’s ever been, this would still be a costly solution, starting at $1,000, before calibration cost. I doubt that would be interesting to you, but I wanted to give you an idea of what the other possibilities are.

I’d suggest that if you’re using just one video source (or if everything you ever plan to watch is just one signal type, say 720p), that a calibration is worthwhile. If not, you’re probably not going to get good calibration bang-for-the-buck, because it’s unlikely your set could be properly optimized for everything you watch.

Believe me, I HATE to discourage potential calibration customers, but I also don’t want to over-promise what can be delivered.

My normal calibration fee for fixed-pixel RPTVs is $400, which would include calibration of the display for up to three different signal types (480p component, 720p DVI, etc). In the event you’d be interested in a Lumagen solution, there would be some wiggle room on the calibration fee, and certain aspects of the Lumagen setup would be done at no charge if the purchase is made via my dealer.

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The amount he is asking for is about what others are charging. I just wanted to get other feed back before I continue.

I think this also points out one of the real pitfalls with these sets. Unless I have missed an option somewhere, the settings are not stored for each input.
The Toshiba HM95 for example, remembers the selected video mode and settings for each input in addition to those for the current display resolution. It is an extremely impressive interface.
With the JVC, the settings for the selected video mode are constant no matter which input or resolution is being displayed.
This deficiency in the JVC interface really bugs the heck out of me since I like Theatre Mode for DVD's, and when I switch back over to the HTPC I have to remember to switch the video mode to Standard or it looks gross.
The whole user interface just strikes me as a "whatever we can get by with" approach, rather than striving to make it the best it can possibly be. I would wager that this will change now that they have some actual competition in LCOS technology from Sony and others.

Is there a way to make the channels change faster? Right now i am currently using standard cable (waiting for the hd box to come in). I also have a question about avia. When setting the whites, how are you supposed to set it? I understood all of the other adjustments, but i didn't quite understand what i was going for in the white category. Am i supposed to make it so the two lines are just barely visible, like the black level?

mechanic posted:
Mine display's : f168
Its a 52G786.
If they have not got it right with 5 revisions, we may be in trouble. I think its microsoft's fault.

my f163 is an august build, what month is your f168 ? do you have a cablecard ?

USAZatoichi,

That is accurate information you are getting from that ISF tech, I misunderstood your comments as it being a difficult set to calibrate, not about the flexibility offered (or rather not). There are certainly sets that offer better flexibility from a calibration perspective but the results are still pretty impressive nonetheless.

mechanic posted:
Mine display's : f168
Its a 52G786.
If they have not got it right with 5 revisions, we may be in trouble. I think its microsoft's fault.

my f163 is an august build, what month is your f168 ? do you have a cablecard ?

Have not had the set long, is there an easy way to determine build date?
I just have the Comcast Motorola STB at this time, I will likely not even try the cable card, since the G786 has no on screen TV Guide feature.

mechanic:
the build month is a sticker on the back of the set.

i kept my digital motorola box so i could have the guide also.

USAZatoichi,

That is accurate information you are getting from that ISF tech, I misunderstood your comments as it being a difficult set to calibrate, not about the flexibility offered (or rather not). There are certainly sets that offer better flexibility from a calibration perspective but the results are still pretty impressive nonetheless.
I've noticed that Reds tend to be shifted a little to the right. Is this something that can be fixed by calibration? If so, I'll give this guy a call since he is being so honest with his email.

Here is a quote from a post in a different thread entitled "Tips on callibrating a DILA (JVC HD-56G886)", I found this information to be extremely helpful:

there is a convergence setting, press sleep timer, then display and video status at the same time, ypu will see 3 options, press 9
you will get a gray box with rgb boxes

display toggles between r or b you cant adjust green, you can toggle to rgb and move the whole screen.

Here is a quote from a post in a different thread entitled "Tips on callibrating a DILA (JVC HD-56G886)", I found this information to be extremely helpful:

Well, pressing those buttons will not let me in the service menu. Is there another way?