Well, pressing those buttons will not let me in the service menu. Is there another way?

USA
Yes they will let you in. Try it again, I just did mine 2 nites ago following those inputs.

Help me guys! I have a 52G786 that was purchase in late July. For the most part everything has been working fine, until today. When I turned on the set today the brightness is about 60% of what it was previously. THe screen is much darker and there is nothing in the setup screens that would cause this. Is the bulb going out? I have only had the unit for 3 months! I would say at best the unit is under average use and no where near the advertised hours of the bulb life.

Is there a setting or something that I need to check to get back the brightness? I checked that it is on the standard scheme and not the theater (which is a bit darker).

Thanks in advance

1. Service Menu - in the JVC is something like the BIOS in a computer. You need to know exactly what you are doing before you fool around with the adjustments and settings. And be sure to write down every setting BEFORE you change them so you can reset them if necessay.

To enter the Service Menu, use the JVC remote, toggle the switch to TV and the other Toggle switch to VCR. Press Sleep, you will see 0 min, immediately press Display and Video Status simultaneously and you will be presented with 3 choices. Proceed from there.

2. Picture Quality - Our eyes are different and every set is similar but different in details. There are a lot of real good postings and information from Kit Red and LMDA1. They are really knowledgeable and helpful. I also make use of the DVE and Avia calibration discs. Here are some pointers:

Using the Video Status on the JVC remote set the Video Mode to Standard, using Menu , set details to -20 to -30, reduce picture to -8, if your color is still too saturated, reduce color to -5 to -8, turn Digital Noise Clear to OFF, turn Smart Picture to OFF, keep Color Managment ON. Kit Red and LMDA1 have different opinion on the Dynamic Gamma. Kit Red prefers it OFF, LMDA1 likes it ON.

Your own eyes and sets will probably be different and required different settings than the above settings so use them at your own risk.

3. Firmware upgrade - There is some blurb in the manual page 80 about using a SD card for software upgrade. I know Panasonic uses the same SD card technique to upgrade the firmware and allows the firmware to be downloaded to your computer. May be soon JVC will allow us to do the same. If anybody have a copy of the new firmware for the 56G886 please PM me (newer than f162)

4. As of yesterday, I have exchanged my Moto 6420 DVR for a Cable Card. I can say based on my very limited experience, that the JVC tuner and scaler does a much better job than my Comcast Motorola box. HD is great, Digital channels like HBO and Encore look almost like EDTV, not quite HD but singularly good, SD is the best I have seen. However Comcast signal vary with the weather in my area, so I will reserve judgment for another week.

You do lose On Demand, DVR, and Pay TV and other things with this generation of CC. Although the 2way CC is coming.

Hope the above help you guys.

;)

Help me guys! I have a 52G786 that was purchase in late July. For the most part everything has been working fine, until today. When I turned on the set today the brightness is about 60% of what it was previously. THe screen is much darker and there is nothing in the setup screens that would cause this. Is the bulb going out? I have only had the unit for 3 months! I would say at best the unit is under average use and no where near the advertised hours of the bulb life.

Is there a setting or something that I need to check to get back the brightness? I checked that it is on the standard scheme and not the theater (which is a bit darker).

Thanks in advance

Did your screen display " Lamp needs to be replaced" message? Owner's manual pp 92?

If not, try to unplug the power plug wait for a few minutes, plug it in again and re Power your TV.

;)

Chanc,
THere hasn't been any "Lamop needs to be replaced" messages at all.

I unplugged the tv, let it sit for 10 minutes, then turned back on and no difference. It actually looks like the tv picture is getting darker now.

This is not good. Does anyone have the phone number to call to get a replacement bulb? This should eb covered under warranty right? I think less than 3 months for a bulb is not my fault.

Thanks

Still looking;
anyone with a HTPC hoked up to this using the HDMI input??

For those needing the service menu, have you looked here (it is last years model though);
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=455897

Still looking;
anyone with a HTPC hoked up to this using the HDMI input??

For those needing the service menu, have you looked here (it is last years model though);


OK, I looked over the service menus and my remote is different. I have a RM-C14G model remote, and the keys are in different positions. I have the 52G786 TV, so could that be why pressing the "Sleep Timer" button, then "Display & Video Status" buttons won't let me in the service menu?

UPDATE: I just got it to work. On my remote you have to have the switch to VCR, not DVD.

USA,

My fault, I meant to type VCR but typed DVD by mistake. I edited my post.

Jeremy,

Sorry to hear about your problem.

The JVC phone number is in the last few pages of your manual. May be a service call is appropriate here.

You can go to the JVC web site, look up the service repair center nearest to you, call them up and set up the appointment.

It's all covered by your warranty. You will need a receipt / invoice with serial number and date. You do not have to call JVC if your TV is registered with them. At least that has been my experience. All work including bulb is covered in the first year.

;)

Still looking;
anyone with a HTPC hoked up to this using the HDMI input??


I gave it a shot, but it seems like the nvidia 6200 card does not pass the HDCP handshake correctly. The audio had intermittent drops, and the picture was unacceptable. I am sure other setups may differ here, so its worth a try. In my case, I just swtiched to component, which works quite well.

I believe the lamp replacement message on the TV is merely a clock and not linked in anyway to the performance of the bulb.

quick question, does anyone know the hdtivo remote code that will turn the jvc on? i can get the input button working and i can turn it off but i cant turn it on.

I too have this same problem with my 56G866 and D*HDTivo. I have found that if I press the on/off button rapidly several times the set will eventually turn on, but this is a pain. Anyone found a better code?

Using the Video Status on the JVC remote set the Video Mode to Standard, using Menu , set details to -20 to -30, reduce picture to -8, if your color is still too saturated, reduce color to -5 to -8, turn Digital Noise Clear to OFF, turn Smart Picture to OFF, keep Color Managment ON. Kit Red and LMDA1 have different opinion on the Dynamic Gamma. Kit Red prefers it OFF, LMDA1 likes it ON. ;)

I tried these settings and it really cleaned up the SD PQ w/o effecting the HD PQ. After the set "burns in" a while, I'll get an ISF tech to calibrate it.

Thanks evryone for the help and tips!!! :D

Hi Everyone,

I'm a newbie to HDTV so please excuse my indiscretions ...

I just purchased a 52G886.
I have used VE to tweak the picture as best i can.
I understand the differences (in general) between SD and HD.
I live in a remore area and have no OTA and use Dish exclusively.
I do have just a few questions if you all wouldn't mind helping me.

1. I learned how to get in and play with Service Mode.
I checked convergence and it was perfect.
Could anyone please direct me to documentation that would explain all the settings in Service Mode and how to change them ?

2. Overall SD doesn't look too bad and HD looks AMAZING !
But, a football field in SD looks like it has been painted with green watercolor paint.
Is this "normal?"
[ VE tweaking and further playing with Detail, Picture, Brightness and Color doesn't change it much.]

3. A kind of blurring or ghosting seems to occur with fast movement in football games.

4. Often text will have "halo's." VE did not get rid of them.

5. In Panorama, the picture at the top and bottom run past the edges. For example, the ticker tape on CNN doesn't show. Is there somewhere in Service Mode that can fix that ?

Thanks so much for any help.

3. A kind of blurring or ghosting seems to occur with fast movement in football games.

4. Often text will have "halo's." VE did not get rid of them.[QUOTE]

5. In Panorama, the picture at the top and bottom run past the edges. For example, the ticker tape on CNN doesn't show. Is there somewhere in Service Mode that can fix that ?

3. Are you watching in HD or SD? If it's SD, what's your signal source? In HD you'll see macro blocks but that's a problem of live MPEG encoding and not the display. In SD it may be inbound or a function of the rescaling with a poor signal.

4. If you don't have it on everything, then chances are it might be inbound. Again, your signal source has a MAJOR bearing on picture quality and some sources are none too good. The better the set, the more pronounced are the defects of a poor signal.

5. This is normal, panorama is a blow up and stretch so that it doesn't have to make as much of a stretch. Go to normal mode. I don't recall any size change you can make for this in the service menus., but there might be since many of them aren't labeled in the service manual.

hxl7; just how remote of a area are you in?
Go here, use the link at the top left, find your exact location, copy the lat. and long. down somewhere for future reference, enter in in where that page askes you and see what's around;

http://www.2150.com/broadcast/default.asp

As far as the service mode, look back 9 posts.
P.S.; welcome to the forums.............

[QUOTE]3. A kind of blurring or ghosting seems to occur with fast movement in football games.
3. Are you watching in HD or SD? If it's SD, what's your signal source? In HD you'll see macro blocks but that's a problem of live MPEG encoding and not the display. In SD it may be inbound or a function of the rescaling with a poor signal.

SD. Signal source is Dish network. Signal strength is over 100.


4. Often text will have "halo's." VE did not get rid of them.
4. If you don't have it on everything, then chances are it might be inbound. Again, your signal source has a MAJOR bearing on picture quality and some sources are none too good. The better the set, the more pronounced are the defects of a poor signal.

All text have the ghosting or halo effect.


5. In Panorama, the picture at the top and bottom run past the edges. For example, the ticker tape on CNN doesn't show. Is there somewhere in Service Mode that can fix that ?
5. This is normal, panorama is a blow up and stretch so that it doesn't have to make as much of a stretch. Go to normal mode. I don't recall any size change you can make for this in the service menus., but there might be since many of them aren't labeled in the service manual.
Oh. Duh ... sorry about the dumb question!

Thank you very much for your reply!

hxl7; just how remote of a area are you in?
Go here, use the link at the top left, find your exact location, copy the lat. and long. down somewhere for future reference, enter in in where that page askes you and see what's around;
As far as the service mode, look back 9 posts.
P.S.; welcome to the forums.............
Thanks for the info. Well, I'm pretty remote. After I entered my latitude/longitude, etc., no stations showed up! We do get weak OTA signal from Spokane, WA, about 175 miles away. So all viewing is off of Dish network.

Yes! I saw your postings of the Service Menu data and pics. That's where I learned how to check out convergence. (Thank you for that amazing post.) But I was hoping to learn more about all the other settings and adjustments in the SM and how to play around with them.

Do you know if anything in there would address the ghosting or halo effect around text?

Thanks for the welcome!

Bad cables, bad unit, bad input.
Have you subbed another device on the same input?

When you were at 2150, did you changed the defaule distance to say 200 miles?
Whats your zip?

Bad cables, bad unit, bad input.
Have you subbed another device on the same input?

No, I have not.

When you were at 2150, did you changed the defaule distance to say 200 miles?
Whats your zip?
Yes. 98862.

Thank you.

I have been kind of turned off from JVC because of the loss of settings on power loss. I was browsing remote central and found this info buried in a post over there:

Ok. I received a roughly translated email with some good news from JVC.

As we found out, their HD-ILA TV's are designed to reset to factory default video settings after any power loss.

However, you can change this behavior and have the set retain your calibration settings through a power loss by holding down the "input" button and then pressing "CH+". Do this with the set on and using the buttons on the side of the TV not from the remote control.

Now the set will retain the calibrated settings. I'm not sure how long but we successfully tested this today with the set unplugged for 2 hours.

This procedure will now be part of our standard process on these TV's.

Have fun,

George P.

Hope it helps out and actually works!

I have come up with a way of changing ATSC channels faster than scrolling using channel up/down. I'm not sure I'll use it mainly, but it's particularly useful when I don't remember the exact channel # (Gee, is NBC on x - or is it y?). Press "menu" and find "channel summary" and leave it there so that the next time you press "menu" you'll already be there. Press "ok" and you'll see the channels- you can arrow around quickly and select the one you want. It sounds more time consuming than it is- it is certainly faster than doing the channel up/down bit.

Yes, you can enter the channel number directly- & using the "sub channel" key does not seem to do much. Pressing 0 7 1 or 7 sub 1 is about as fast.

BTW, I see posts saying you cannot enter analog channels directly. I certainly can. In analog mode, I can enter any channel, and it goes there directly- whether it was scanned or not, whether there is a viewable program or not. Perhaps this is a firmware difference? BTW, I have a 61Z786.

And thank you, bpdp379!

I see posts saying you cannot enter analog channels directly. I certainly can. In analog mode, I can enter any channel, and it goes there directly- whether it was scanned or not The key word here is "analog". Analog as in anything goes.
You can directly access a ATSC/AQM channel, but you have to enter the actual channel number. E.G.; 43-sub-1-tune (tune is JVC's name for enter). Not just 43 or the analog 17 (both numbers are the PBS affiliate in my area).

This doesn't seem to be spelled out in the instruction book and JVC's 'farmed out' support doesn't know it either. JVC isn't the only one, BTW.

hxl7; I see what you mean. I checked out AntennaWeb and it only shows 2 translators; chs. 10 & 12 near you. Man, I can't imagine living somewhere without OTA. :eek:

When I first received my 56G two months ago, the power light came on as soon as I turned on the TV. Since then I had a speaker problem and they replaced the board. Now the power light does not come on until about 20 seconds after I turn on the TV.
I don't like this delay--do any of you have this situation?
esteps

bpdp379, cool find

I wonder if we could flash the Gx86 with the software used by the new 1080P models?
I believe they even added on-screen TV Guide to the mix, and given that the light engine is at least somewhat similar, it might be possible.
My guess is that the chances of JVC ever adding new features or even fixing the interface errors by issuing an update for the Gx86 would be next to none.

I wonder if we could flash the Gx86 with the software used by the new 1080P models?

And just how do you propose to use the firmware for a 1080p set, on a set that is also only capable of 720p?

Not proposing anything.. It is extremely rare for code such as this to be developed from scratch; it is more typically just a modified (i.e. extended) version of something that already exists. Therefore, in some cases, backwards compatibility will also exist. The fact is that its really nothing more than binary code, and binary code can be modified if you know what you are doing.

Hi.
I was going to venture into the service menu, but my timer button doesn't do anything. My clock wasn't set so I set it and still nothing. Any ideas? I'm kinda taking this as an omen to stay away!
Thanks,
Zaxdad

I think some have noted that the position of the slide switches on the remote have to be correct in order to enter the service menu. On my remote, they are both slid towards the left.

No one here try hooking this up to a PC through the HDMI in?

just got my dvi to hdmi cable bruce, i'll let you know how it goes connecting it from my ati all in wonder x800xt to the 56g786 yet this week.

I tried everything from 640x480 through 1280x1024 and nothing worked, almost as JVC designed it NOT to. A couple times I saw for a fraction of a second one of the boot dialog boxes, but that was it. This was with a ATI 9600Pro. PS didn't help.

The VGA input only allowed 4x3 aspect ratio resolutions of 640x480, 800x600 & 1024x768. A 52" 16x9 set with a 40" 4x3 image. I don't think so. :mad:

Question for you owners. I keep trying to decide between the 52" jvc and sony 50a10 (almost bought an A10 last month and now Im back in undecided mode). My concern with the H-dilas that I have seen is an overall green cast to things. Is this a common problem or something that can be adjusted easily?

Also, is SSE less noticeable on the JVC than on the A10? This seems to be the case in those I have seen but again Im not sure if is just the way they were adjusted or if that is the general consensus.

btw I dont see SDE on either set from normal viewing distances.

Thanks in advance for any help.

No one here try hooking this up to a PC through the HDMI in?

Like I say, I was able to obtain 720p using DVI to HDMI with my nvidia 6200. Basically all the different sets I have tried so far worked with this nvidia card, here is a list in order of the picture quality obtained:

One Toshiba 52HM95 (DLP)
One Panasonic PT-52LCX65 (RPLCD)
Two Panasonic PT-50LC14's (RPLCD)
Two JVC 52G786's (LCOS)

The issues I observed with the G786's was that text was unacceptable due to what appeared as excessive CA. There were also intermittent but constant sound dropout events. Switching to component rectified both of these issues. The HDMI port itself also functioned just fine when attached to the Comcast Motorola STB. My conclusions were that the JVC simply would not negotiate the HDCP handshake correctly. There could have been other factors responsible, such as driver issues.
I have found that if problems appear right as windows is loading when you have first attached the display or changed the display connection method, it can usually be resolved as follows:
boot into safe mode, remove the video driver software using the Add / Remove Programs applet, restart, and then reinstall the driver.

This 9600 didn't work at all. Even durning the bios screen there was nothing. Funny that nVidea worked.
Was the aspect ratio 4x3 or was it 16x9 (WITHOUT stretching)?

GaryLee; SSE/SDE is a trademark on LCD sets.

Question for you owners. I keep trying to decide between the 52" jvc and sony 50a10 (almost bought an A10 last month and now Im back in undecided mode). My concern with the H-dilas that I have seen is an overall green cast to things. Is this a common problem or something that can be adjusted easily?

Also, is SSE less noticeable on the JVC than on the A10? This seems to be the case in those I have seen but again Im not sure if is just the way they were adjusted or if that is the general consensus.

btw I dont see SDE on either set from normal viewing distances.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Not sure why you would see a green cast, but yes, you can calibrate the JVC to a near perfect 6500K color temp and greyscale producing white whites.

The only sets I have seen that had a 'green cast' to them were Hitachi and last years Mits.

videobruce,

So you have trouble connecting a DVI computer output to the HDMI JVC connector. This could be caused by a SYN sub channel problem. Your self check program might reveal this.

I read the FAQs for the DILA at the JVC web site, and the very first question deals with HDMI problem which as you might recall I had a lot of problems with. JVC mentions some hardware replacement. I was able to get the HDMI to work via the service menu.

Kit Red,

Do you know anybody who has had a firmware upgrade on the G series? I know that Panasonic allows firmware upgrade via SD memory card by owners.

;)

Still looking;
anyone with a HTPC hooked up to this using the HDMI input??[Raises hand] I do! Just finished building an new HTPC with a Gigabyte fanless 6600GT PCIe card (Nvidia Driver Version: 78.01). No problem with a DVI -> HDMI cable to my 61Z786.

Booted up in wide screen 1280 x 720 native res from the very first time. The video card/driver even recognizes and reports back the TV model number.

Your self check program might reveal this. What self check program?? :confused: JVC mentions some hardware replacement. I was able to get the HDMI to work via the service menu. Hardware in the computer? What/where in the SM?

DonDougan; lucky you. is the aspect ratio 4x3 or 16x9? How much underscan is there? Are you in stretch or normal mode?

Anybody interested in upgrading to a power buy on the JVC 1080P PRO Models 70" and 61" please visit this thread....http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=595187

is the aspect ratio 4x3 or 16x9? How much underscan is there? Are you in stretch or normal mode? I'm in 'normal' mode and the desktop shows up in widescreen 16X9 native 1280 X 720 resolution. IIRC from my last DVE session the underscan is at least 5% - maybe a little more. As time allows I plan on adjusting that a little. The Nvidia control panel has the option to compromise the resolution and show the whole desktop with one or two mouse click if desired. I use that for doing desktop work and then switch back to 1280 X 720 for DVDs and HD.

videobruce,


Kit Red,

Do you know anybody who has had a firmware upgrade on the G series? I know that Panasonic allows firmware upgrade via SD memory card by owners.

;)

That's two people I've seen call me 'kit'

I haven't seen or heard anything about a firmware release. I'd calibrate your set to Avia and follow the tips provided in this thread and that should reveal pleasant results. However, if your green tint is confined to strictly the corners of the screen, that's a separate issue. That is color fringing and a light engine replacement is in order.

meshuggah:

Sounds like we have similar equipment. I eagerly await your results. I'm mulling over trying this myself. Do you also have the HDTV Wonder? Windows MCE or Pro?

I note that pages 24 & 102 of the manual state:
"The digital-in terminal is not compatible with the picture signal of a personal computer."
So I guess JVC is trying to avoid support issues. Once I get my 962 it won't matter to me.

Hey Zaxdad:

Make sure the slider is set to VCR and the other to TV. Hit the sleep timer only.....it'll stay on for abuot 3 seconds. During that time frame..... hit display + video status at the same time. You'll get 3 options. Choose (1)........don't choose (3)......it freezes the remote, goes a little haywire. After choosing (1) you can scroll and adjust Red, Green & Blue. Don't mess w/ the other settings w/o first writing down the default factory ones. Scroll to S030.......these work best for me.

s030 R drive 120
so31 g drive 124
s032 b drive 85


1.) 720P & 1080i - STANDARD, Gamma On, evrything else off, and detail around -10 to -15.

2.) 480i & 480P - STANDARD, Everything on or Auto, -25 detail, -20 bright, -8 picture. Moto Moxi tends to make 480i through component brighter than normal for SD channels. I adjust my Panny S77 back up for brigtness and picture...to compensate at 480P. Your results might be different.


Jonathan
(cali)

p.s. Thanks to Duff Man for the service menu help

originally posted by navychop:
meshuggah:

Sounds like we have similar equipment. I eagerly await your results. I'm mulling over trying this myself. Do you also have the HDTV Wonder? Windows MCE or Pro?

I note that pages 24 & 102 of the manual state:
"The digital-in terminal is not compatible with the picture signal of a personal computer."
So I guess JVC is trying to avoid support issues. Once I get my 962 it won't matter to me.

56g786 firmware 163
ati aiw x800xt catalyst & drivers from june (release notes say tv is broke with x800xl & october driver release, expect that it would be the same with my card, so did not update)
switching to the digital input & booting up the pc, i saw the bios & startup screens & the xp pro desktop. started at 1280 by 720 & the tv kept cycling between 4x3 & 1280x720. the desktop was missing the sides so i switched to 1280x768 & i saw the whole desktop, but the tv kept switching between what seemed to be 4x3, then 1280x720, then 1280x768. it constantly did this. when viewing the 1280x768 it was not a sharp image, no resolution it stopped at was appealing to the eye. i looked at ati's site but could not find an older (but newer than mine) version of the catalyst driver. may not have been patient enough (someone correct me if they can find older driver revs). did not try the component out, since thats not what any of us is really looking for. i do not have a hdtv wonder. 962 ?

You just "might" want to give that component out a try. ;)

"The digital-in terminal is not compatible with the picture signal of a personal computer."
So I guess JVC is trying to avoid support issues. Standard disclaimer. No support issues that way.

1. Anyone else out there that has a ATI card working with this set??
2. Does any resolution give you a 16x9 format WITHOUT stretching?

meshuggah; were you able to see the bios boot screen and/or the Windows splash screen(s) with the HDMI input?

meshuggah:

Go to this link (https://support.ati.com/ics/support/default.asp?deptID=894&task=knowledge&folderID=27) and look on the left side. Scroll thru and you will see "previous drivers and software" for various h/w. You may find what you need there.

The 962 is the upcoming DISH network multi-tuner, multi-TV MPEG-4 HD DVR. It's based on their 942, which is the best STB they've released, and has rave reviews. Once it's out, I'll upgrade my E* Top 180 package to include the HD and Voom channels. Until then, my HD viewing is restricted to OTA. At least, I now have an HDTV. Previously, I watched HD on a computer monitor or down rezzed to an analog TV.

"TV is broke" ???

My 61" that I bought new in May just recently got "darker" in displayed image on all channels. The sharpness of the picture has not deteriorated, it just is not as bright. Does anyone know if this could be early signs of bulb failure? We watch TV about 3 hours a day, so the hours on the bulb are low. I have not made any changes to the system. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

originally posted by videobruce:
meshuggah; were you able to see the bios boot screen and/or the Windows splash screen(s) with the HDMI input?
i did mention in my post 2061 that i was able to see the bios & xp startup screen, but it never settled down (cycled thru various resolutions)
will bring my brothers pc over this weekend with an nvidea 6600 series & try again.
i'll post my results.

originally posted by navychop:
Go to this link and look on the left side. Scroll thru and you will see "previous drivers and software" for various h/w. You may find what you need there.
i must be blind, i can not find the previous drivers section. sorry to be so ignorant, please a little more specificity, thanks much !
the tv broke thing was with the october drivers, something about streaming not working properly with the x800 cards so if i wanted to watch tv on my pc it would not work. i found that when looking thru the release notes. if i could get, say, the september drivers, i'd update then...
ahh, 962, ok.

cable card users... please chime in, anybody using one with success ?
using the optical out from the tv when going from a digital channel to an analog channel is your recievers sound staying on the digital channel & not outputing the analog channels sound ?
i have both optical out of the tv & left-right out of the tv connected to a yamaha rxv-995.
the yamaha continues to output the digital sound when going to an analog channel. the tv should shut off the digital signal & output only the analog signal. anybody notice this ? this is annoying enough to return the set & try an fh series when it shows up.

My 61Z786 is due to get a firmware upgrade this afternoon. My current firmware version is f155 with a manufactured date of May 2005.

When I first received my 56G two months ago, the power light came on as soon as I turned on the TV. Since then I had a speaker problem and they replaced the board. Now the power light does not come on until about 20 seconds after I turn on the TV.
I don't like this delay--do any of you have this situation?
esteps

Me too! I thought it was just my imagination. I had the tuner board and HDMI board replaced.

HDMI problem (green screen) was my fault, but the tuner suddenly got weak and I lost sound from the left side speaker when watching digital channels. Analog, sound came from both speakers.

Replaced said boards (it fixed the problems) but now I have slow start-ups.

Cheers

cable card users... please chime in, anybody using one with success ?
using the optical out from the tv when going from a digital channel to an analog channel is your recievers sound staying on the digital channel & not outputing the analog channels sound ?
i have both optical out of the tv & left-right out of the tv connected to a yamaha rxv-995.
the yamaha continues to output the digital sound when going to an analog channel. the tv should shut off the digital signal & output only the analog signal. anybody notice this ? this is annoying enough to return the set & try an fh series when it shows up.

I have my 61Z786 using the CableCard with Time Warner Cable and it does the same via the digital optical output but I suspected it will do this because it is a digital audio connection.

So I also connected the RCA analog audio outputs to my receiver. When on digital channels my receiver uses the digital optical connection, when in analog channels I use the analog audio connections. I usually never turn on my receiver for the surround sound theater effect with the analog channels, only when I watch High Definition channels with DD 5.1 active do I turn on my receiver or while watching DVD movies.

So this really isn't an issue for me to returning the set. I'm getting a firmware upgrade to my set today on an SD card. If you have the 61Z786 with f155 firmware call JVC for the upgrade.

I have my 61Z786 using the CableCard with Time Warner Cable and it does the same via the digital optical output but I suspected it will do this because it is a digital audio connection.

So I also connected the RCA analog audio outputs to my receiver. When on digital channels my receiver uses the digital optical connection, when in analog channels I use the analog audio connections. I usually never turn on my receiver for the surround sound theater effect with the analog channels, only when I watch High Definition channels with DD 5.1 active do I turn on my receiver or while watching DVD movies.

So this really isn't an issue for me to returning the set. I'm getting a firmware upgrade to my set today on an SD card. If you have the 61Z786 with f155 firmware call JVC for the upgrade.


How do I check my firmware revision on my 786? Also what does this new upgrade fix?

I have my 61Z786 using the CableCard with Time Warner Cable and it does the same via the digital optical output but I suspected it will do this because it is a digital audio connection.

So I also connected the RCA analog audio outputs to my receiver. When on digital channels my receiver uses the digital optical connection, when in analog channels I use the analog audio connections. I usually never turn on my receiver for the surround sound theater effect with the analog channels, only when I watch High Definition channels with DD 5.1 active do I turn on my receiver or while watching DVD movies.

So this really isn't an issue for me to returning the set. I'm getting a firmware upgrade to my set today on an SD card. If you have the 61Z786 with f155 firmware call JVC for the upgrade.

I have the exact situation. Here is a tip for those using CC. When using the digital sound with the HD or digital channels, TURN OFF your JVC speakers. They apparently cause an ECHO sound for the 5.1 SS.

In addition, you can just use the ANALOG sound for ALL channels.

dkennedy,

I am very interested in your software upgrade. Please PM me or post your experience. I have the 56G886 and f162, manufacture date July 05.


:cool:

How do I check my firmware revision on my 786?

In the menu go to digital setup, in the upper right hand corner you should see f### that is your firmware version.


Also what does this new upgrade fix?

I will get the update this afternoon. I don't know yet what it will fix. I hope the tech will allow me to save the SD card info onto my pc.

I will get the update this afternoon. I don't know yet what it will fix. I hope the tech will allow me to save the SD card info onto my pc.

Let us know how you make out and what version it is. Just checked mine. It's 163.

Thanks.

My 61Z786 was upgraded from firmware f155 to f163 but I can't find any differences or they are just eluding me.

The cable card issue of outputting only digital channel audio via the digital optical output is still present, when you tune in an analog channel the tv is still outputting the last digital channel audio.

So, what did JVC fix?

I didn't expect them to output analog channel audio via the digital optical out but I did expect them to turn the audio off on the digitial optical output when not in a digital channel.

Question for you owners. I keep trying to decide between the 52" jvc and sony 50a10 (almost bought an A10 last month and now Im back in undecided mode). My concern with the H-dilas that I have seen is an overall green cast to things. Is this a common problem or something that can be adjusted easily?

Also, is SSE less noticeable on the JVC than on the A10? This seems to be the case in those I have seen but again Im not sure if is just the way they were adjusted or if that is the general consensus.

btw I dont see SDE on either set from normal viewing distances.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Gary Lee - I had the same exact decidsion, but was also looking at the SS DLP 5067. I had the Sony A10 in-house, but felt guitly about spending $2200 on an "open tem" from Crutchfield so I returned it. I have to say I was pretty impressed with it, except SD quality (which I watch a lot due to sports coverage). last week I was about to pull the trigger on the SS, but since I just didn't feel right about buying a SS (personal issue, I think the company overall has very questionable ethics, see $300M find levied by US Gov story) somehow I started looking at the 52G786. All the reviews seemed to be glowing, so I went by BB and they had a special for $2099 with stand included and a 30-day guarantee with NO restocking fee so I went for it. I LOVE it so far, gorgeous picture, every bit as good as the Sony. The sony's speaker's stink, and I don't turn on my home theater system when I watch "normal TV" so that mattered a little to me (JVC's built-in speakers are pretty good). The ONLY concern I have on the JVC right now is reliabiliity of the LCOS since it is not as widely deployed as DLP or the Sony RP LCDs. I know there are horror stories on the SS color wheels, so I feel good about not choosing it. Don't forget on the Sony, if you don't have a stand already, you need to factor in another $300-500. Other than that it is a great set IMO. You shoold be able to find a bundle deal for the JVC with stand, and it is a pretty nice one.

On some channels/programs, the side bars are black. On others, they're gray. Can somone explain why?

What's your source?

I just recently purchased a JVC 52G886. I've already had to call JVC's 800 # for help. They are sending me out a new lamp (at no cost). I am concerned that this might not just be a "fluke" as they called it. Has anyone else experienced problems with the 2 LED lights on the front of the TV flashing at the same time?

Hello all:

Has anyone else here w/ a S77 and gx86 tried a comparison between hdmi vs. component. I've had the JVC and S77 for about 2 weeks and have already adjusted using DVE. Everytime I flip back and forth on the S77, between hdmi (720P & 1080i) and component (480P) I seem to always lean towards the component output. Just to make sure my eyes aren't tricking me what does everyone else think? Could it be that the scaler in the JVC is better upconverting 480p than the S77 is at upconverting to a 720P & 1080i signal? Thanks for any input.

:rolleyes:
Jonathan
(cali)



JVC HD-52G786 (all enhancement turned off, except gamma)
PANNASONIC S77 (all enhancements turned off and setting at 4:4:4)

Jonathan,

Interested in seeing replies to your question. I am having a cablecard installed because after going through the TV's tuner, the PQ is significantly better than the STB. Also tries the STB on 720, 1080,comp,hdmi all combos and found different results (pluses and minuses) with each. After a month with this set, I have concluded that it can deliver a fantastic PQ but is VERY reliant on source.

Chaz

My 61Z786 was upgraded from firmware f155 to f163 but I can't find any differences or they are just eluding me.

The cable card issue of outputting only digital channel audio via the digital optical output is still present, when you tune in an analog channel the tv is still outputting the last digital channel audio.

So, what did JVC fix?

I didn't expect them to output analog channel audio via the digital optical out but I did expect them to turn the audio off on the digitial optical output when not in a digital channel.

Will let you know if I have similar issues after install. Curious though, in the set up menu, do you have digital audio set to automatic? This may just be a digital in setting. Not sure.

Hello all:

Has anyone else here w/ a S77 and gx86 tried a comparison between hdmi vs. component. I've had the JVC and S77 for about 2 weeks and have already adjusted using DVE. Everytime I flip back and forth on the S77, between hdmi (720P & 1080i) and component (480P) I seem to always lean towards the component output. Just to make sure my eyes aren't tricking me what does everyone else think? Could it be that the scaler in the JVC is better upconverting 480p than the S77 is at upconverting to a 720P & 1080i signal? Thanks for any input.

:rolleyes:
Jonathan
(cali)



JVC HD-52G786 (all enhancement turned off, except gamma)
PANNASONIC S77 (all enhancements turned off and setting at 4:4:4)

I have the panny as well. I get horrible MB with it unless I set my colorspace to RGB and enhanced. If I go 4:4:4 I get horrible Macroblocking and my blacks look blues sometimes. I wish I could get the optimal settings for this dvd player and my 61z786 set. I am having a hard time. Even going to the dvd player thread doesn't help a whole lot. Different tv sets have different outcomes with this dvd player.

My 61Z786 was upgraded from firmware f155 to f163 but I can't find any differences or they are just eluding me.

The cable card issue of outputting only digital channel audio via the digital optical output is still present, when you tune in an analog channel the tv is still outputting the last digital channel audio.

So, what did JVC fix?

I didn't expect them to output analog channel audio via the digital optical out but I did expect them to turn the audio off on the digitial optical output when not in a digital channel.

still at f163... my august build came with that version. wonder if they intend on doing anything about the digital out, or if thats just the way it's gonna be ?

hooked up an nvidea 6600 to the hdmi port last night. booted to the desktop, image was a little smaller than the screen. the drivers knew the model of the set attached to it. there was a check box to adjust for overscan/underscan, when checked, then the image filled the screen. it just worked, quite an improvement over my ati card.

I have read through these post till cross eyed and have yet to find anything on what is suggested to be the best up converting DVD player for JVC HD56G866 that I got three weeks ago. As far as that goes, is it necessary to get an up converting player, I mean is it worth while? Will the PQ be noticeably better with an up converting player? I have an older RCA ( :( ) player that does have progressive scan but I do not notice any real increase in PQ on this TV compared to my old 35" crt when watching DVD's.

I am quite a noob on this entire subject of hidef. I love my set. PQ is usually great, even SD is good to not bad. I have D* with the HD250 via HDMI and use OTA for locals.

I realize that I am not near as technical as most on this thread but hey, ya have to start somewhere. ;)

Thanks to all for this thread. I really have learned quite a bit.

I'm using a Motorola digital cable box.

Another mix up at Comcast. No cablecard for me today. Gee, rep called ahead and had a DVR but no cablecard, and gee it says dvr install here, and gee, no, the warehouse is closed because it's Sunday and he can't get another one...

Then the rep on the phone says there's no way of telling when they'll get more cablecards...

Then her supervisor and I had a nice chat and they're going to come out again Wednesday.

Why would people think that Comcast doesn't want to install these cable cards for us?!?!?!?

This was my second attempt. The first appointment I made was never put into their computer. Gee, weird?!?! I had to make another appointment for today.

Gee, it seems like these fancy new cablecard things are so confusing....

I'm on my 3rd JVC 52G786 and am having problems with this one. When I got it the fan was not bad, but has gotten worse these last 2 weeks. It's making a growling sound and at even mid volume levels it is quit noticable. This set has some of the purity issue, though not quite as bad as the 2nd set. I'm also seeing bad color shift, mostly on SD signals, on strong colors like red, yellow, orange, blue. The color is shifted to the right, but more so on "distance" objects in the picture. I've been into the service menu to check the convergence, but everything in in line. This is not the case with HD content or DVD's using component. Sounds like a scaler problem with upconverting 480i signals using the digital tuner. I'm running a cable card in the TV, so no STB is used.

I am on my second, with the third arriving sometime this week. :(
If this next one does not work out, then I guess I am going back to LCD. RBE prevents DLP as an option, and HTPC = no rpcrt or plasma. sigh.
My biggest complaint is that the noise is so severe that you nearly always have to use the Noise Clear function to remove it, and then the picture is so dull that it no longer represents HD to me. Even with no noise reduction applied, the picture is much softer (less detail) than any other technology I have tried thus far (rpLCD, DLP). The lack of RBE and SDE is certainly a plus, but I believe that JVC took a cut corner - improve profit approach to this latest generation of their 720p sets.

Just purchased a JVC HD-56G786 from BB. Picture looked great in store, better than the DLPs I looked at. But now at home the JVC HD-56G786 picture is not good. I have DTV HD package and used to have a Toeshiba that had a great picture, but the JVC HD-56G786 picture on HD channels looks ok if there is no fast movement, also on pictures like HD Discovery Channel when landscapes are shown (Mountains with sky behind them) the sky looks bloucy like a mosaic. Any help.

Some of us view the "softer" JVC image as more "film-like" while the harsher DLPs are more "video-like."

mkco-
Sidebars- depends upon the source. The JVC produces gray sidebars. Some 4:3 material is actually sent 16:9 with black sidebars inserted.

I have read through these post till cross eyed and have yet to find anything on what is suggested to be the best up converting DVD player for JVC HD56G866 that I got three weeks ago. As far as that goes, is it necessary to get an up converting player, I mean is it worth while? Will the PQ be noticeably better with an up converting player? .

Steff3, I am in the same boat, except my current "old" DVD player doesn't even have progressive scan. From what I've seen in my research from this and other threads (ie Samsung, Sony), the upconversion is NOT worth the extra $. Your TV does it anyway, and probably about as well as the DVD players. Most people recommend sticking with progressive scan and saving the extra $ towards the new standard-based players coming out in the near future (BlueRay or HD DVD).

All, I searched through this thread and it seemed there was quite a bit of debate as to whether or not to get an EW. I just purchased my 52G786 from BB and of course they pushed the EW hard, which I turned down, but have 30 days to decide. After digesting this thread, it is clear to me there are a LOT of reliability issues with the JVCs, as there are with all microdisplay technologies (DLP, RP LCD, too). The real issue to me is whether you need the EW to cover you past the first year which JVC covers. It is obvious JVC does a great job servicing sets for the first year, and I also plan to at a minimum go back to BB and put my purchase on my visa gold to double the manufacturer's warranty (I know many say it is a pain to claim on these, but for that kinda money I'm willing to go through it). Does anyone one know of any solid statistical reliability data to show whether "lemons" fallout in the first year or two on LCOS sets? Obviously it would have to be based on the older JVC set data, but that is better than no data. Other than the reliability concern I'm very pleased with this set 1.5 weeks into it. Also, does anyone know if bulb prices are projected to decrease substantially (from ~ $200) over the next couple years given the expected growth of the overall RP HDTV market?

Before you buy an EW, find out who honors it- who will do the work? People have posted here that they could not find a local shop that accepts certain EWs.

I doubt that bulb prices will decline much, if at all, over the next 2 years. As soon as I hear the new (longer life?) JVC bulb is available, I'm buying one.

Some of us view the "softer" JVC image as more "film-like" while the harsher DLPs are more "video-like."

mkco-
Sidebars- depends upon the source. The JVC produces gray sidebars. Some 4:3 material is actually sent 16:9 with black sidebars inserted.

But this is really nothing you cannot obtain yourself by reducing the detail setting on an HDTV that is displaying this increased clarity, rather than having it done for you by the limitations of the technology.
I am sure that there is some degree of detail lost due to the fact that SDE has essentially been removed, however, a wobulated DLP seems to accomplish this without such a "drastic" reduction in detail.
In my experience both DLP and LCOS have their share of noise, and the JVC does seem capable of removing most of this noise, while the DLP I examined had a very hard time with it. I think the picture obtained once the noise has been removed is the best comparison of the two technologies, and this is where LCOS does seem to have an advantage over some DLP sets.

Steff3, I am in the same boat, except my current "old" DVD player doesn't even have progressive scan. From what I've seen in my research from this and other threads (ie Samsung, Sony), the upconversion is NOT worth the extra $. Your TV does it anyway, and probably about as well as the DVD players. Most people recommend sticking with progressive scan and saving the extra $ towards the new standard-based players coming out in the near future (BlueRay or HD DVD).

austintx01,
Thanks for your reply. I believe it may be best to wait for the next technology however my DVD player is not the best and when I connect via progressive scan, I get some sort of interference in two or three locations running from the top of the screen to the bottom, sort of like brite pixels (like a string). The picture is great but very disturbing with this interference. I am thinking I need to replace my player, any suggestions?

Finally took the plunge, ordered the 61z886 online (fingers crossed) at
buydig.com. They use Manna shipping, anyone have experience
with this particular shippers ?

Still have not decided on the extended warranty other than my amex.
Looks like most do not cover bulbs. I called up visa about their extended
warranty (which is the cheapest) but they said it does not cover bulbs
either. Repairmaster warranty seems to be dicey (lack of acceptance by
local shops ?)

The plan is to get the tv, work out the kinks in the first few months and
then go for an EW depending on how things turn out

Also can someone post the actual dimensions of the base for 61z886 ?
Is it a rectangle or does it taper towards the back and if so, what is the
the length at the back and front and the total depth (trapezoid).

I am considering the stormark stand from ikea but it sort of tapers
from the starting at 33" to 29" at the back
STORMARK (http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10101&storeId=12&productId=42127&langId=-1&parentCats=10104*10174)

Last but not least, many thanks to all the contributers here. Truly a
commendable job and lets keep the info flowing.

austintx01,
Thanks for your reply. I believe it may be best to wait for the next technology however my DVD player is not the best and when I connect via progressive scan, I get some sort of interference in two or three locations running from the top of the screen to the bottom, sort of like brite pixels (like a string). The picture is great but very disturbing with this interference. I am thinking I need to replace my player, any suggestions?

Steff,
You might want to check out the OPPO Digital OPDV971H DVD. It's an upscaling player that's gotten some good reviews and will not cause you to break the bank to purchase it.

I curently have a Sony Progressive NC665P. It's decent with my HD56G7866, but I have been looking long and hard at the Oppo. Here's couple of links.

http://www.audioholics.com/productreviews/avhardware/oppoDV971Hdvdplayer1.php
http://www.dvdtalk.com/features/004343.html
http://www.oppodigital.com/

-bruce

hooked up an nvidea 6600 to the hdmi port last night. booted to the desktop, image was a little smaller than the screen. the drivers knew the model of the set attached to it. there was a check box to adjust for overscan/underscan, when checked, then the image filled the screen. it just worked, quite an improvement over my ati card. What resolution are you running? How does that compare (PQ) with the VGA input?

Steff,
You might want to check out the OPPO Digital OPDV971H DVD. It's an upscaling player that's gotten some good reviews and will not cause you to break the bank to purchase it.

I curently have a Sony Progressive NC665P. It's decent with my HD56G7866, but I have been looking long and hard at the Oppo. Here's couple of links.

http://www.audioholics.com/productreviews/avhardware/oppoDV971Hdvdplayer1.php
http://www.dvdtalk.com/features/004343.html
http://www.oppodigital.com/

-bruce

Thanks! I'll check it out.

Just purchased a JVC HD-56G786 from BB. Picture looked great in store, better than the DLPs I looked at. But now at home the JVC HD-56G786 picture is not good. I have DTV HD package and used to have a Toeshiba that had a great picture, but the JVC HD-56G786 picture on HD channels looks ok if there is no fast movement, also on pictures like HD Discovery Channel when landscapes are shown (Mountains with sky behind them) the sky looks bloucy like a mosaic. Any help. If you just got the set, give a week or two at a minimum to "break in." The picture seems to settle down after a while.

If you just got the set, give a week or two at a minimum to "break in." The picture seems to settle down after a while.

I have to agree with this, though on my HD-56G786 (also from BB) the HD looked great right out of the box. After a few weeks and it looks even better. I thought SD was only so-so, but that too has improved. It could be that my eyes are just getting adjusted to it. Or maybe a little of both.

Are you sure it is not the HD source? How large was your Toshiba? Do you have any OTA stations you could use to compare?

I only occaisionally notice any pixelation or macro blocking with my set, and it tends to be very brief and not bothersome. Scenes where there is a lot of red and fast movement tend to show it more than any others. This weekend's HD Florida/Georga game with all the red and orange helmuts was the worst I have noticed.

-bruce

Well I am finally getting a new light engine, had a little bit of CA on my 61 and after being patient with JVC Canada they are finally going to replace the light engine. Then noticed yesterday that the tv lost it brightness by 60%. Then last night heard a nice little popping noise. Lamps, done. Sending one overnight. Plus they are going to update my hdmi port. Looks like I am getting a "NEW" used tv.

I will let everyone know what the update is on the HDMI

P

What resolution are you running? How does that compare (PQ) with the VGA input?

the resolution was 1280x720 + the overscan/underscan option. i did not try the vga input since i did not have a cable for it & the 4x3 only on the vga input is not acceptable. i did try custom resolutions above & below 1280x720 with the driver applet which did not work (filling the entire screen). i thought the picture quality should have been better, dvi to hdmi. text should have been clearer. farcry was playable though.

Well I am finally getting a new light engine, had a little bit of CA on my 61 and after being patient with JVC Canada they are finally going to replace the light engine. Then noticed yesterday that the tv lost it brightness by 60%. Then last night heard a nice little popping noise. Lamps, done. Sending one overnight. Plus they are going to update my hdmi port. Looks like I am getting a "NEW" used tv.

I will let everyone know what the update is on the HDMI

P



pjf (and to those others here as well)

I read on another board that IF you remove the back of the set that a "sensor" is tripped that disables/ screws up the HDMI port... Something about an "optical sensor"... (Pif, try to pump the tech for info on the below)

On page 7 of the
HD-52g465
HD-55G466
HD-55G456
AND
HD-61Z456

Owners Manual, section 12 near the bottom of the page

There is a WARNING not to remove the back of the set.. That opening the back of the set WILL violate copyright. (of the digital input, AKA the HDMI input)

I'm wondering IF ANYONE here has run accross this. On the Z or Q series.

Here is the post on the other board, the poster had problems with his HDMI port, the tech asking if he had the back off, saying there is some kind of sensor that trips if the back is removed.


http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=456992#POST456992

http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=471232#POST471232


http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=484614#POST484614


http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=485598#POST485598


Can anyone confirm the above? If so can you provide a picture of were the sensor is located... The above poster in the last post I think said it was on the left, and then in a later post said it was on the right...

Been reading... First post... Purchased HD56G786 from BB about 1 week ago.

A few things I have been working on:

Comcast Motorola cable box is plugged in via HDMI (not an expensive cable, found at bargain price on the internet though fairly [24awg] thick from monoprice). When changing channels or using the DVR (pause, FF, RW) the TV displays some distortion then "No Input" for a split second before proceeding with the requested action. It does not do this with componants but I think I like the HDMI picture better. Anyone else had this issue?

SD does not look great to me. I've seen this as a consistance complaint. Any suggestions to help this?

Same for PS2, conected via Ebay cheap componant cables for PS2. Images apear blocky and I have seen others rave about game play on this TV. Suggestions?

HD looks great, and I've read it just gets better so I can't be happier with that!

Thanks, Aaron

pjf (and to those others here as well)

I read on another board that IF you remove the back of the set that a "sensor" is tripped that disables/ screws up the HDMI port... Something about an "optical sensor"... (Pif, try to pump the tech for info on the below)

On page 7 of the
HD-52g465
HD-55G466
HD-55G456
AND
HD-61Z456

Owners Manual, section 12 near the bottom of the page

There is a WARNING not to remove the back of the set.. That opening the back of the set WILL violate copyright. (of the digital input, AKA the HDMI input)

I'm wondering IF ANYONE here has run accross this. On the Z or Q series.

Here is the post on the other board, the poster had problems with his HDMI port, the tech asking if he had the back off, saying there is some kind of sensor that trips if the back is removed.


http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=456992#POST456992

http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=471232#POST471232


http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=484614#POST484614


http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=485598#POST485598


Can anyone confirm the above? If so can you provide a picture of were the sensor is located... The above poster in the last post I think said it was on the left, and then in a later post said it was on the right...

Is true! It happen to me. Mine was the "Anonymous" post on Ecoustics.

I got the green screen after removing the back with the power plugged in. The tech replaced the HDMI board, now my HDMI works. I played dumb and asked where the sensor was, he laughed and said "if I told you, I'd have to kill you"
:)

Do the input labels really work? I have assigned labels to the inputs, but they still show TV, input 1, input 2 etc. when selecting an input. They do show the proper label when using split screen though.

This drives my wife crazy! She doesn't want to know that input 3 is DVD, she wants to SEE DVD!

Cheers

Been reading... First post... Purchased HD56G786 from BB about 1 week ago.

A few things I have been working on:

Comcast Motorola cable box is plugged in via HDMI (not an expensive cable, found at bargain price on the internet though fairly [24awg] thick from monoprice). When changing channels or using the DVR (pause, FF, RW) the TV displays some distortion then "No Input" for a split second before proceeding with the requested action. It does not do this with componants but I think I like the HDMI picture better. Anyone else had this issue?

SD does not look great to me. I've seen this as a consistance complaint. Any suggestions to help this?

Same for PS2, conected via Ebay cheap componant cables for PS2. Images apear blocky and I have seen others rave about game play on this TV. Suggestions?

HD looks great, and I've read it just gets better so I can't be happier with that!

Thanks, Aaron


Aaron,
I recently upgraded my digital box to the Motorola DVR and am having similar issues. I get a split second of snow/static. The old digital cable box used a DVI to HDMI cable and it worked like a charm. I guessing that it's a problem with the DVR box. I've switched back to component. You should try posting this in the Motorola DVR forum, to see if it's a problem with all tv's.
As for game play, I've got an XBox and couldn't be happier.

That opening the back of the set WILL violate copyright. The rear panel copyright police will arrest you on site! :rolleyes:

Are you sure it didn't say 'warrenty'?

Is true! It happen to me. Mine was the "Anonymous" post on Ecoustics.

I got the green screen after removing the back with the power plugged in. The tech replaced the HDMI board, now my HDMI works. I played dumb and asked where the sensor was, he laughed and said "if I told you, I'd have to kill you"
:)




RE: We need to find out EXACTLY where the sensor is that DISABLES the HDMI port if the back of the set is taken off.


The above poster ( Mr Frank Statton) said it was NOT on the HDMI board itself, that there was a piece of yellow tape , in one post on the left hand side... http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=485598#POST485598

In another post by the same poster he was saying it was on the right hand side.???... That the tech had not noticed the tape... and that he CAN now remove the back... and the HDMI disabling feature NOT be tripped now.


He was saying it was on the case of the TV itself, not the HDMI board...

I think we need to ask Mr Frank Statton to REMOVE the back of his set and take a picture of the exact location he is taking about. He took a picture of the ballast during a ballast replacement, so he's got a digital camera. I would think the this info would GREATLY benefit ALL H-ILA owners.

The rear panel copyright police will arrest you on site! :rolleyes:

Are you sure it didn't say 'warrenty'?

VideoBruce...

Nothing about "warranty" per-sa...


Page 7, section 12:

Do not open the rear cabinet of this televison

This televison has DIGITAL-IN terminal. Opening up the rear cabinet will violate the copyright of the program or software shown on the televison. Please do not open the rear cabinet.

* * * *

Translation:
Open up /take off back of set with set plugged in /or powered on..... You're looking at a DEAD HDMI board.

I bet they don't give those HDMI boards away if you're out of warranty.
BIG $$$$$ to fix it you have to "buy" the HDMI board.


Anyone else besides me interested in confirming the sensor location?

Seems like anyone, and everyone here would benefit finding out where it is, how to dis-able it /by-pass it.

pjf (and to those others here as well)

I read on another board that IF you remove the back of the set that a "sensor" is tripped that disables/ screws up the HDMI port... Something about an "optical sensor"... (Pif, try to pump the tech for info on the below)

On page 7 of the
HD-52g465
HD-55G466
HD-55G456
AND
HD-61Z456

Owners Manual, section 12 near the bottom of the page

There is a WARNING not to remove the back of the set.. That opening the back of the set WILL violate copyright. (of the digital input, AKA the HDMI input)

I'm wondering IF ANYONE here has run accross this. On the Z or Q series.

Here is the post on the other board, the poster had problems with his HDMI port, the tech asking if he had the back off, saying there is some kind of sensor that trips if the back is removed.


http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=456992#POST456992

http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=471232#POST471232


http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=484614#POST484614


http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=485598#POST485598


Can anyone confirm the above? If so can you provide a picture of were the sensor is located... The above poster in the last post I think said it was on the left, and then in a later post said it was on the right...


Hey Kid Red:

You did the N-filter Mod on the JVC set, can you confirm that you're HDMI connection got screwed up. Hmmmmm, makes me re-think about improving the blacks after all. Lol If there's a work around that sensor, Im interested.


Jonathan
(cali)

Do the input labels really work? I have assigned labels to the inputs, but they still show TV, input 1, input 2 etc. when selecting an input. They do show the proper label when using split screen though.

This drives my wife crazy! She doesn't want to know that input 3 is DVD, she wants to SEE DVD!

Cheers

They kind of work. I was annoyed by this as well.

Changing the labels does not work on the Input menu, but only on the screen display. When you change inputs, after the menu disappears it shows "Digital - DVD" or something like that.

I wish you could disable unused inputs. Switching is cumbersome.

In case anyone is interested; ;)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154

VideoBruce...

Nothing about "warranty" per-sa...


Page 7, section 12:

Do not open the rear cabinet of this televison

This televison has DIGITAL-IN terminal. Opening up the rear cabinet will violate the copyright of the program or software shown on the televison. Please do not open the rear cabinet.

* * * *



I am sure that the FTC would be quite interested in something like this as well. Basically, a manufacturer CANNOT build in any type of device that would intentionally prevent an owner of the equipment from servicing the unit themselves. The FTC would simply view this as an attempt by the manufacturer to ensure that future profits are secured specifically for JVC authorized service centers. Also opens up a very wide door for civil actions.

Its not that you can't open it up and service it yourself. Its that it MUST be unplugged before the back panel is removed.

I would think they don't want anyone "hacking" into the digital data of the HDMI and using for another "purpose"

Cheers

Hey Kid Red:

You did the N-filter Mod on the JVC set, can you confirm that you're HDMI connection got screwed up. Hmmmmm, makes me re-think about improving the blacks after all. Lol If there's a work around that sensor, Im interested.


Jonathan
(cali)

Just unplug the power cord first. You will be fine.

I was poking around in there with the power on. Tripped the sensor, bye bye HDMI!
:eek:

Can someone explain how I can run the set with the back OFF.. without tripping the sensor?

Can someone explain why this info is NOT is the SERVICE MANUAL? (As that is what most shops are going to go by when servicing a set.)

Sure there is probally a site you can access with TSB's, and such, but it's really crappy this info / is not mentioned in the service manual.

Alone those lines, anyone HERE have access to JVC training info, TSB's????? (If you want PM me if you can't post due to fear of losing your job.)


2nd question:

If the sensor IS tripped, how is it reset?

Anyone know where the sensor is?

I am sure that the FTC would be quite interested in something like this as well. Basically, a manufacturer CANNOT build in any type of device that would intentionally prevent an owner of the equipment from servicing the unit themselves. The FTC would simply view this as an attempt by the manufacturer to ensure that future profits are secured specifically for JVC authorized service centers.

Well probably not since this is all part of the DMCA and you are not allowed to defeat, reverse engineer or defeat any copy protechtion scheme under any circumstances (including for your own use in your own home, back up, etc).

The protection is an optical sensor and would not be triggered by normal servicing. It doesn't turn off the set or prevent it's use, it just turns the HDMI input "green" until it's reset (which on some sets can be done with a remote control--a serviceman's remote not a user remote with strange key sequences).

So all you need is the tools necessary to service the set and you'll just have to see if JVC will sell you that remote. They probably will have to, but maybe it'll take a court case which means that part would be expensive.

Of course if the set is underwarranty, there is no reason why they would sell you that tool, they'd just fix it.

These laws are complex and virtually untested in the courts so only time will tell how this whole HDMI protection scheme will work out, but JVC is not alone in this, it's an industry wide scheme.

John

One more thought, If I had designed the set, I'd put a safety switch in so the set will not get power with the back off.... AND A BIG WARNING LABEL explaining that if the switch IS bypassed to power up the set... the HDMI will get fried.

As it stands now, anyone who was to take the back of the set off will end up with a dead HDMI board $$$$$

Alot of "techs' who may service your set after the warranty period is over may not know about the HDMI disable sensor and ALOT of people are going to have to PAY for an HDMI board... when they didn't need one.

Darthrsg,
Sorry I didn't respond sooner. I'm not comfortable with mucking about in the service menu. However, I'm having a tech come out today who will adjust it cia the service menu. It's really pretty obvious on very saturated red and sometimes deep oranges.ok gulley here it is, thanks for being patient.WRITE YOUR ORIGINAL SETTINGS DOWN

first off i dont have a way to input a 1125i all white pattern, but i can input a 1125i signal via HDTiVo.

start with a 1125i signal over component or HDMI, i adjusted both, and there are similar settings for other scan rates

set the set to standard picture mode, full screen, low color temp

get in service menu press sleep timer, then press display and video status at the same time.

choose option 1 adjust
get into the s0 set of registers, they will probably be up already

set the s001 from 000 to 012(cb offset), as you adjust to this value the screen will go through some changes, when you get to 012 the upper half of the screen will be pinkish and the bottom half will be normal

on my set the pink area had lots of square pixels dancing around(noise)

go to s013 by pressing down, 1125i cb offset, adjust up or down by pressing left or right, you should see the noise change color

go to s014, 1125i cr offset, adjust it the same way

those two registers are linked, go back and forth until the noise is gone, you will still have the pink top half of the screen

once the noise is gone press mute to save

after doing this i noticed less pixelation on HD and DVD, it did not seem to help SD

there are many more built in test/setup patterns in the service menu, but definetly
record the settings that are in your set beforehand so you can go back. hope this helps you and others.

That should be brought up in the "What's Inside" thread. I will look into it, but don't see anything yet. As I posted above, JVC does say the set can/will operate with the main unit removed from the cabinet (thought with no audio or video, lacking a screen).It's really pretty obvious on very saturated red and sometimes deep oranges. There is no decoder adjustments as what's available with the Mits. Just RGB gain controls (grey scale).

Well probably not since this is all part of the DMCA and you are not allowed to defeat, reverse engineer or defeat any copy protechtion scheme under any circumstances (including for your own use in your own home, back up, etc).

The protection is an optical sensor and would not be triggered by normal servicing. It doesn't turn off the set or prevent it's use, it just turns the HDMI input "green" until it's reset (which on some sets can be done with a remote control--a serviceman's remote not a user remote with strange key sequences).

So all you need is the tools necessary to service the set and you'll just have to see if JVC will sell you that remote. They probably will have to, but maybe it'll take a court case which means that part would be expensive.

Of course if the set is underwarranty, there is no reason why they would sell you that tool, they'd just fix it.

These laws are complex and virtually untested in the courts so only time will tell how this whole HDMI protection scheme will work out, but JVC is not alone in this, it's an industry wide scheme.

John

John,

In allot of cases you need to run the set with the back of the set off in normal servicing.

I could see putting an anti-tamper switch on the HDMI itself, that tripped if someone tried to access the internals of the HDMI board.

Seeing how your up on this issue, would you happen to know the part number of the service remote / have access to the codes, and /or have access to TSB's for these sets?

That should be brought up in the "What's Inside" thread. I will look into it, but don't see anything yet. As I posted above, JVC does say the set can/will operate with the main unit removed from the cabinet (thought with no audio or video, lacking a screen).


Yep, I saw that too, and they left out the part number of the service remote, codes, procedure to reset the HDMI.

More questions about the elusive optical sensor...

1) What activated the sensor? Light? Motion?

2) Can it be covered with tape and defeated?

The sooner a solution to infringement on legitimate freedom of property owners, the better.

1 and 2
Unconfirmed:

http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=485598#POST485598

I just received my 52" from Beach Camera (same outfit as BuyDig) and they used Manna. I don't believe they own their own trucks; they get the set to your local area and then contract with local companies to make the delivery. They told me it was "threshhold delivery" and that they would get it as close to my door as possible without going up any stairs, but my guys brought the set in, unpacked it and put it on my stand without my asking. No problems.

As for the warranty, I bought a Mack 3-year in-home plan (kicks-in after the 1-year JVC warranty) and a 3-year Mack bulb warranty (2 bulbs) for $225 for both through New World Video Direct. (Ordering by phone got me a cheaper price than the website price).

For those that have cable hooked up to their ATSC terminal, what is your average reading for antena level in the digital setup menu option? Can this be used to judge signal quality for HD in addition to the normal digital channels?
I get from 77 to 83, which is well within the green, but it seems as if one would likely have a much stronger signal with a direct cable attachment.

In allot of cases you need to run the set with the back of the set off in normal servicing.

I could see putting an anti-tamper switch on the HDMI itself, that tripped if someone tried to access the internals of the HDMI board.

Seeing how your up on this issue, would you happen to know the part number of the service remote / have access to the codes, and /or have access to TSB's for these sets?

So far I haven't seen any of these codes or an order number for the service remote . . . sometimes JVC supplies these to the authorized factory service centers and the information won't leak out until the sets are at least a few years old. The information will become available, just not right away.

If people get stuck buying HDMI boards because of a servicing error, it won't be the first time in the service industry that consumers have bought boards that they didn't need. At one time back in the 70s RCA with it's module system found that 70 percent of the returned "dud" modules were fine. The service men were just plugging and playing to get the sets running again. RCA started requiring their factory service guys to repair at the board level (but that was before all this chip cap & resitors stuff which is difficult to "fix").

John

[QUOTE=jetjr]I just received my 52" from Beach Camera (same outfit as BuyDig) and they used Manna. I don't believe they own their own trucks; they get the set to your local area and then contract with local companies to make the delivery. They told me it was "threshhold delivery" and that they would get it as close to my door as possible without going up any stairs, but my guys brought the set in, unpacked it and put it on my stand without my asking. No problems.

Thanks for the info! My 56G786 is currently in transit with Manna and expected to be delivered next Wednesday. I purchased mine from BuyDig.

Thanks to everyone posting here; you really helped me in my decision between a JVC D-ILA and a Sony LCD (I see rainbows so DLP wasn't in the running).

For those that have cable hooked up to their ATSC terminal, what is your average reading for antena level in the digital setup menu option? Can this be used to judge signal quality for HD in addition to the normal digital channels?
I get from 77 to 83, which is well within the green, but it seems as if one would likely have a much stronger signal with a direct cable attachment.

Mine is around 83 and looks good. I hear ya' though. High 90's would make me feel better.

Can anybody confirm what happens when you first power on your set?

I had service done (replaced Digital Signal PWB and ATSC PWB) and now it doesn't power up the same. I thought the blue light used to come on a second after hitting the power button, the red light would flash on occasion, then the lamp on after 20 or so seconds.

Now... I get nothing but the fan on and the occasional red light flash, then after about 20+ seconds, the blue light will come on along with the lamp.

Sorry for being long winded, but this really bothers us. You never know what the TV is doing at startup like before. The tech has only worked on 1 other JVC DILA (thats a good thing, right?), but has been to trained too.

"esteps" has the same problem, have you found a solution?

Cheers

No solution yet--but I am about ready to contact JVC.
esteps

Can anybody confirm what happens when you first power on your set?

I had service done (replaced Digital Signal PWB and ATSC PWB) and now it doesn't power up the same. I thought the blue light used to come on a second after hitting the power button, the red light would flash on occasion, then the lamp on after 20 or so seconds.

Now... I get nothing but the fan on and the occasional red light flash, then after about 20+ seconds, the blue light will come on along with the lamp.

Sorry for being long winded, but this really bothers us. You never know what the TV is doing at startup like before. The tech has only worked on 1 other JVC DILA (thats a good thing, right?), but has been to trained too.

"esteps" has the same problem, have you found a solution?

Cheers

I just received my 52" from Beach Camera (same outfit as BuyDig) and they used Manna. I don't believe they own their own trucks; they get the set to your local area and then contract with local companies to make the delivery. They told me it was "threshhold delivery" and that they would get it as close to my door as possible without going up any stairs, but my guys brought the set in, unpacked it and put it on my stand without my asking. No problems.

Thanks for the info! My 56G786 is currently in transit with Manna and expected to be delivered next Wednesday. I purchased mine from BuyDig.

Thanks to everyone posting here; you really helped me in my decision between a JVC D-ILA and a Sony LCD (I see rainbows so DLP wasn't in the running).

I have a 61z886 on transit from buydig as well. The manna website shows a
ETD of 11/7, but i haven't gotten any call yet to schedule a appt.

How good are Mack warranties, over at photo.net they don't seem to like them.
Also check ebay for mack warranties as well.

Repeating my earlier request - can someone post the exact dimensions (all 4 sides) of the 61z886 pedestal base (is it a rectangle or trapezoid)
I need to check if the ikea stormak stand i bought would work. Thanks in advance.

HI everyone. I just got my 61Z786 last week and it's really rather lovely and all that. But, while I know the black levels aren't supposed to be great but whenever I play DVDs and there is a very dark background there are all these lighter pixely, shimmery areas within the dark areas. I have an Oppo971H. The problem only seems to be with DVDs, black areas on televison programs seem fine. Anyone have any suggestions or solutions on how to lessen the effect? Thanks.

According to the DVD Player forum, the Oppo71H has the Faroudja chip infamous for its macroblocking. The symptoms you describe sound like MB. If so, you can't do much about it if you continue to use the Oppo71H.
esteps

HI everyone. I just got my 61Z786 last week and it's really rather lovely and all that. But, while I know the black levels aren't supposed to be great but whenever I play DVDs and there is a very dark background there are all these lighter pixely, shimmery areas within the dark areas. I have an Oppo971H. The problem only seems to be with DVDs, black areas on televison programs seem fine. Anyone have any suggestions or solutions on how to lessen the effect? Thanks.

Has anyone with a JVC52G786/886 or similar model performed a Focus Adjustment?

If so, could you please post the steps for doing so?

Thank you!

See this:
Just what's inside a 'G' series JVC D-ILA?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=598154
Thread #17

esteps


Has anyone with a JVC52G786/886 or similar model performed a Focus Adjustment?

If so, could you please post the steps for doing so?

Thank you!

Can anybody confirm what happens when you first power on your set?

I had service done (replaced Digital Signal PWB and ATSC PWB) and now it doesn't power up the same. I thought the blue light used to come on a second after hitting the power button, the red light would flash on occasion, then the lamp on after 20 or so seconds.


Wishfull1,
My start up on my HD56G786 is pretty much the same as you described:

Press Power Button on Set or Remote
Blue light comes on solid
Orange light begins to flash
Fan(s) start up
Lamp powers on and picture appears

It seems to take a moment before the fans start, and then another brief moment for the lamp to fire up. All in all about 20 to 30 secs, I'd say.

Hope this helps,

-bruce

I have a JVC G886. I need some help pinpointing this problem, or at least figuring out a way to describe it. Below are two links to the picture problem that's happening. I can best describe it as garbled lines on the screen. I have had the tv for one week, and they have shown up on only three ocassions. The lines will come up the screen for anywhere from one second, to maybe twenty seconds and then disappear, and come back. Most of the time everything looks fine, however. The lines appear on EVERY input when they're happening, and seem to be replicating some of the material that's shown on the input at that time. Although there are still some lines on inputs that have no incoming signal. If you bring up the JVC 'menu' the lines are BEHIND the menu. I'm just curious what might be causing this or if anyone has experienced this before, or how I would describe this to JVC when trying to get them to repair it. Thank you!

The first picture is an s-video input. The second video is on a completely unused input. Pics only taken a few seconds apart.

Since it's every input, looks like a service call to JVC is in order.

HI everyone. I just got my 61Z786 last week and it's really rather lovely and all that. But, while I know the black levels aren't supposed to be great but whenever I play DVDs and there is a very dark background there are all these lighter pixely, shimmery areas within the dark areas. I have an Oppo971H. The problem only seems to be with DVDs, black areas on televison programs seem fine. Anyone have any suggestions or solutions on how to lessen the effect? Thanks.

I have the 61Z786 paired with the Panasonic S97s DVD Player via HDMI which also has the Faroudja chip infamous for its macroblocking, however, several firmware updates from Panasonic has improved the PQ to the point that macroblocking has been a non-issue. Check for Oppo firmware updates in the DVD forum.

FOCUS ADJUSTMENT - A MUST CONSIDERATION ! (JVC52G886)

Hello, all. I am so excited with the results of the Focus Adjustment, I wanted to share what I discovered with everyone since I have learned so much from this forum.
__I have had my set for just over a week or so and was pretty happy with it right out of the box. However, the blacks werern't perfect, so I did the Filter Mod as described elsewhere and was very happy with that result.
__Not knowing much about the HDTV technology, I was pretty pleased with the focus since I had heard they were not as sharp as CRTs. But there certainly was room for improvement so I was anxious to do a focus adjustment.
__WOW. I was not prepared for the results! The little difference I made to the focus made a HUGE change in what I was viewing. Now, for instance, the light reflected in a close up of a subject's eyes is RAZOR SHARP ... as is everything else. I am extremely excited by the result and over-the-top happy with my purchase of this JVC with it's deep, rich blacks and razor edge focus.
__The difference this focus adjustment made was so dramatic and the procedure is so simple to do that I encourage everyone to do it, just to see whether or not it might improve your PQ.
__One test that may give an indication of need: Sit very close to the set. Can you see the tight pixels? Are they in very sharp and clear focus, or do they appear to some degree fuzzy or out of focus? If they do not appear razor sharp, try the focus adjustment!

Here are the simple steps to follow with maybe a pointer or two:

SETUP
- The focus adjustment is done from the front of the set.
- Two pieces need to be removed in order to get to the Focus Lever. Both pieces are very easy to remove:
.. * The front speaker grill (extends the full width of the set) - 2 screws
.. * A black plate in the center and behind the speaker grill - 2 screws

- Needed Items
.. * Phillips head screwdriver
.. * Allen key (small one)
.. * Couple of stacks of books (explained below)
.. * Portable, stationary light to shine on focus lever location
.. * Your Remote

PROCEDURE
- Turn set on and let it run for at least 30 minutes before doing the adjustment.
- Leave the set on while performing the adjustment procedure.
- TIP: Note the center of the grill and observe the power button where the blue light shines when the set is turned on. Behind that light, attached to the grill, is a small circuit board. This board has a number of wires that run straight back into the back of the set. When you remove the grill, you can't just leave it hanging by the circuit board/wires. So, use something to support the grill when you remove it. I used stacked books. Here's why:
__Note that when you lay the grill down, it must be on its face. Note also that this can trip the power button (guess how I knew that!). So, I used 2 stacks of books to create two "pillars" to rest the grill on. The pillars/book stacks were positioned on either side of the power button so as not to trip the power.
__Make your book stack so that its height is just below the bottom of the set, thereby positioning the grill out of your way, yet high enough to give some slack to the wires attached to the power on circuit board.
- Make your pillars before removing the grill.
- Next, remove the speaker grill by removing 2 screws from the back at each end
.. * After screws are removed, gently pull speaker grill downward
.. * Rest the grill on it's face on your pillars with the power button/light positioned in the center between your two pillars
- In the center, note the small black plate held in place by 2 screws
.. * Note which side of the plate is the top and bottom
.. * Remove the 2 screws
.. * Remove the plate
- Inside you will see
.. * A mirror attached to the lens unit
.. * Behind, at the back, on the right, a silver colored tightening screw
.. * Behind, at the back, on the left, the long, thin, silver colored Focus Lever
- Tip: Here is where you may need an extra light to shine into the recessed work area
- Loosen the tightening screw on the right with the Allen key
- Grab your Remote and hit the Menu button
- While observing the text in the menu AND also the pixels, grab the Focus Lever with your left hand and gently move it up and down, noting the change in focus
- When you have the focus just right, continue to hold the Focus Lever steady with your left hand, while tightening the screw on the right, first with your fingers, then with the Allen key. While doing this, CONTINUE TO WATCH the pixels amd make sure your adjustment is maintained. You may need to re-adjust as you tighten.
- That's it. You're done. Now replace everything and enjoy your razor-sharp picture. (If it is still not perfect, you may need to adjust the Convergence in the Service Menu.)

Has anyone else done a focus adjustment on there set.

Has the mod made, a substantial difference

Has anyone else done a focus adjustment on there set.

Has the mod made, a substantial difference

I have, but I found that is was pretty well focused from the factory. No noticable difference.

Cheers

quote "Has anyone else done a focus adjustment on there set.

Has the mod made, a substantial difference"quote


i was told by many forum members that the focus was great from the factory, so i havent tried it yet. but it is in my future.

Got the 61z886 delivered (by Manna by the way) and after setting it up,
I am unable to get any digital channels.

I have comcast digital stb (motorola dct ???). The box has only composite outputs
and a coaxial. I used the splitter that came with the TV and connected the coaxial
output to the TV's 75 ohm & ATSC/Digital inputs.

Analog channels show up (with bad PQ by the way) but no digital/HD channels.
For example, When i tune to a comcast nbc HD (channel 188 in chicago area),
i get a blank screen in the TV.

What am i doing wrong ? I have been using the coaxial output from the morola box before, with my old std def tv and it worked/works fine.

By the way, I bypassed the cable box totally and the PQ of the analog channels improved. No digital channels of course due to the lack of the box.

I am not very eager to go to cablecard due to lack of pgm guide & on-demand.

Any ideas on what is the problem here ?

Got the 61z886 delivered (by Manna by the way) and after setting it up,
I am unable to get any digital channels.

I have comcast digital stb (motorola dct ???). The box has only composite outputs
and a coaxial. I used the splitter that came with the TV and connected the coaxial
output to the TV's 75 ohm & ATSC/Digital inputs.

Analog channels show up (with bad PQ by the way) but no digital/HD channels.
For example, When i tune to a comcast nbc HD (channel 188 in chicago area),
i get a blank screen in the TV.

What am i doing wrong ? I have been using the coaxial output from the morola box before, with my old std def tv and it worked/works fine.

By the way, I bypassed the cable box totally and the PQ of the analog channels improved. No digital channels of course due to the lack of the box.

I am not very eager to go to cablecard due to lack of pgm guide & on-demand.

Any ideas on what is the problem here ?

Use the "A/D" button on the top left of the tv remote to access digital channels. If that doesn't help, don't know wht you wouldn't get digital unless they're ALL encrypted. Comcast MIGHT be able to provide that info on the phone, but you'll need to talk to a tech not a rep.

I recently ditched the Moto STB for the Moto cablecard due to much better PQ.

Good luck.

lanb -
Not sure why you aren't able to get digital stations, but for the HD chanels you will need to swap your digital stb for the HD stb and service ($5 or $10 /month) from Comcast. Or you could always get a HD antenna to mount in your attic or on the roof.

hxl7- Interesting. So this is what you meant when we spoke last, the focus adjustment. I had no clue so I did not ask. How the hell did you come across this adjustment? What exactly does it adjust? I thought the set had all three colors hard wired and could not be moved or adjusted? Do you have any photos? Of the process, before and after? I amy have to look into this. Just to see what, if any difference is offered.

Thanks chaz01 & DaveinPA for your responses.

Yes i did use the D/A button on the remote and it did not help.
Also, my understanding was that i would not need a HD STB from comcast
since i have the integrated HD tuner on my set. Is comcast encrypting the
HD feeds for abc/nbc etc. ?? Interestingly i can get the audio for the HD
programming just no video.

I fiddled around a little bit more and found that when i just feed in to
the atsc/digital in from my stb no picture comes thru (for any channel),
so basically it appears the feeds are picked up only when fed thru the 75 ohm connection at the back. Defective atsc/digital input ??

Can someone explain the need & difference for the two coax inputs in the
back of the TV. (75 ohm & atsc/digital in). Is it a convenience to have a
feed from antenna and cable/sat simultaneously ??? Is the atsc/digital in
only for use with cable card ??

I believe the integrated HD tuner is only for off-the-air HD signals. Seems to me you'd still need the Hi-Def box from Comcast for their HD content, though I'm no Comcast expert (DishNetwork for me).

The Focus Adjustment is in the Service Manual.

It adjusts "focus." I am not trying to be smart, I just don't know another word.

It's like the focus on a pair of binoculars. Moving the focus lever up or down makes the picture go blurry.

When you hit the Menu button, the Focus Lever makes the text characters razor sharp or go blurry. Also, if you get close enough to be able to see the pixels on the screen, moving the Focus Lever will make them very sharp or blurry.

If this is not enough info and you really want pics, let me know. But I think if you follow my step-by-step in an earlier post #2146, you really will not need pics at all.



hxl7- Interesting. So this is what you meant when we spoke last, the focus adjustment. I had no clue so I did not ask. How the hell did you come across this adjustment? What exactly does it adjust? I thought the set had all three colors hard wired and could not be moved or adjusted? Do you have any photos? Of the process, before and after? I amy have to look into this. Just to see what, if any difference is offered.

hxl7- Yea thanks. Check your PM.

I believe the integrated HD tuner is only for off-the-air HD signals. Seems to me you'd still need the Hi-Def box from Comcast for their HD content, though I'm no Comcast expert (DishNetwork for me).

Actually... you can get the CableCARD. There are some pros and cons to this. First the pros... You can receive all the HDTV programming you'd otherwise subscribe to. I have the cheapest digital plan available and it includes my locals, InHD, InHD2, DiscoveryHD and ESPN-HD. The channels are all to the channel they'd be on the STB (NBC on 903, Fox on 908, ABC on 910 etc...). There is no loss in video quality between STB and TV. The biggest plus is that Comcast doesn't charge ANYTHING additional for getting the CableCARD... completely FREE (albeit, they still own it... worthless to me without being a subscriber).

Now for the cons... THEY have to send out an installer to install the card. My installer knew very little. I had to help him through the whole process. I would have done the job in a much faster time... like 5 minutes or less. It took over a month for them to schedule for this loser to come out. The other drawbacks are that you don't have an onscreen guide and no DVR. I have the CableCARD AND the Motorola 6412 DVR. The DVR is $10/month. Considering it's function, pricewise, it is pretty good considering the service fees of Tivo or ReplayTV. I still prefer to use my ReplayTVs for non-HD programming, but I like that I can record 2 HDTV programs at the same time on my 6412.

Actually... you can get the CableCARD. There are some pros and cons to this. First the pros... You can receive all the HDTV programming you'd otherwise subscribe to. I have the cheapest digital plan available and it includes my locals, InHD, InHD2, DiscoveryHD and ESPN-HD. The channels are all to the channel they'd be on the STB (NBC on 903, Fox on 908, ABC on 910 etc...). There is no loss in video quality between STB and TV. The biggest plus is that Comcast doesn't charge ANYTHING additional for getting the CableCARD... completely FREE (albeit, they still own it... worthless to me without being a subscriber).

Now for the cons... THEY have to send out an installer to install the card. My installer knew very little. I had to help him through the whole process. I would have done the job in a much faster time... like 5 minutes or less. It took over a month for them to schedule for this loser to come out. The other drawbacks are that you don't have an onscreen guide and no DVR. I have the CableCARD AND the Motorola 6412 DVR. The DVR is $10/month. Considering it's function, pricewise, it is pretty good considering the service fees of Tivo or ReplayTV. I still prefer to use my ReplayTVs for non-HD programming, but I like that I can record 2 HDTV programs at the same time on my 6412.

My experience on the 52g886 is that the cablecard provides a superior PQ and visually noticeable improvement on ALL channels over the 6412 (SD and HD). This may be in part to my being in a condo with 35 units, not sure. Anyway, I did get the locals here through the back of the set prior to having the cablecard installed. My installer wasn't very knowlegable either and basically was walking out without the channels being mapped (same numbers as cable) when I held him back. My 6412 with HD service is $15 a month, plus $1.50 for the remote. cablecard is no charge monthly but a small install fee and $2.50 a month if I kept the dvr too. I decided the dvr wasn't worth the $19 a month for me so it went back. I couldn't wiat to get a DVR but I am not missing it now that it's gione.

You may have a defective input. the digital coax input should receive local hd channels.

When you have a cablecard installed, does the interface allow you to label an ATSC favorite such as an HD channel? Seems it would be a bit too much having to remember how all the channel numbers correspond.

I don't think it is a defective input. I had the same issue - I could not receive hd channels with cable until I got a cable card. BTW I also had a lot of problems with the cable card install. It took multiple visits and I still can only get the locals with it - no INHD, ESPN, Discover, etc.

JVC Pricing...... I just saw the pricing on the new JVC HD61FH96, it was $4499.00 no discounts yet. At that price they should give Sony a good run for there money, especially if the sets have a better PQ.

Just took delivery of a 61" for a new theater/family room....Already had the 52" which we loved, and put it in the bedroom. The 52" was perfect out-of-the-box so I was expecting the same experience. Much to my disappointment the 61's PQ was less than stellar at the outset. After playing around with settings, etc I still couldn't get it right. However, some wise posters on this forum advised to wait a couple days to let it break-in, and break-in it did! Pq is what I originally expected, like the 52, only BIGGER! Funny thing last nite, noticed a spider crawling across the screen. When i went to get it off, i realized it was inside. Anyone have any idea "where" and if so how can i remove it assuming it's still there?

While I'm at it, Comcast has an HDMI box and I'm wondering if it's worth the hassle to replace my existing box. Currently connecting with component cable. My set-up is fairly typical, I think, that is TV (JVC 61z886), reciever (Onkyo THXNR801), DVD (older Sony player), cable box, Infinity surround speakers. Suggested set-up, i.e. cable types, connections, what-to-what, etc. etc to fully take advantage of everything....I'm new to this.

kdos: Place I was at today is expecting those next week, I have a Sony SXRD on hold, got a great price on it, but am holding off till I see this unit. What sets did you compare this too? Thanks....

Also kdos: Where is the on/off button? Odd question, but I have 2 small children... I like it when they put it on top or the side :)

When you have a cablecard installed, does the interface allow you to label an ATSC favorite such as an HD channel? Seems it would be a bit too much having to remember how all the channel numbers correspond.

In the menu under channel summary, all channels will be listed with their call letters. Discovery HD comes up as Discovery HD, PBS HD as PBS HD, etc. Haven't tried setting favorites but I know which ones I usually watch anyway.

CHaz (or anyone else with this issue),
Have you had any issues with the cablecard losing signal from the cable company at random intervals? I have a 52G786 and have had nothing but problems with the cablecard losing the channels every 3-4 days at random. It takes me pulling the plug on the unit, then pulling out the card and re-inserting in the tv, then power back on, wait 2 minutes, then the channels are back.

I scheduled time warner to come out this afternoon to try some more cards, but it appears to be a common problem with the jvc sets as they have three other customers with this same exact problem of dropouts.

Just trying to see if this is a common problem with the units, maybe get some action with JVC on an update if this is the case.




My experience on the 52g886 is that the cablecard provides a superior PQ and visually noticeable improvement on ALL channels over the 6412 (SD and HD). This may be in part to my being in a condo with 35 units, not sure. Anyway, I did get the locals here through the back of the set prior to having the cablecard installed. My installer wasn't very knowlegable either and basically was walking out without the channels being mapped (same numbers as cable) when I held him back. My 6412 with HD service is $15 a month, plus $1.50 for the remote. cablecard is no charge monthly but a small install fee and $2.50 a month if I kept the dvr too. I decided the dvr wasn't worth the $19 a month for me so it went back. I couldn't wiat to get a DVR but I am not missing it now that it's gione.

You may have a defective input. the digital coax input should receive local hd channels.

Garman: I compared the 52" to the Sammy and Mits DLPs....no comparison for me.....I bought the 61" based on my favorable experience with the 52"......On/Off is front and center on the bottom, but doesn't "look" like a button so the kids may stay away! :D

hxl7- Interesting. So this is what you meant when we spoke last, the focus adjustment. I had no clue so I did not ask. How the hell did you come across this adjustment? What exactly does it adjust? I thought the set had all three colors hard wired and could not be moved or adjusted? Do you have any photos? Of the process, before and after? I may have to look into this. Just to see what, if any difference is offered.


RE: How the hell did you come across this adjustment? What exactly does it adjust?


I pointed him towards it... It's easy to do.

After the light engine the projected light goes thru the lenses.... all three colors (chips) are fixed as you say so there is no "real" /easy adjustment there... but there is a adjustment /a focus adjustment lever on the final lens assembly.

Here's the procedure pics. Focus lever behind the center grill. Accessed from the front of the set.

About a 5min job, start to finish (YMMV)

I was able to get true HD last night , yay !

I completely bypassed my motorola DCT and retuned the analog and digital
channels. The network HD channels then showed up under the sub channel
scheme. (116-2 for nbc). Also picked up some music choice channels and a
bunch of blank ones.

Looks like my motorola box is archaic/defective and is somehow not passing thru
the digital channels thru its coax output.

I am going to try to exchange it for a newer box before going the cablecard route.
Any suggestions other than the HD one ?

Thanks for all the responses.

Garman: I compared the 52" to the Sammy and Mits DLPs....no comparison for me.....I bought the 61" based on my favorable experience with the 52"......On/Off is front and center on the bottom, but doesn't "look" like a button so the kids may stay away! :D

Can't you turn off the power button function from the menu like on the current sets?

My experience on the 52g886 is that the cablecard provides a superior PQ and visually noticeable improvement on ALL channels over the 6412 (SD and HD). This may be in part to my being in a condo with 35 units, not sure. Anyway, I did get the locals here through the back of the set prior to having the cablecard installed. My installer wasn't very knowlegable either and basically was walking out without the channels being mapped (same numbers as cable) when I held him back. My 6412 with HD service is $15 a month, plus $1.50 for the remote. cablecard is no charge monthly but a small install fee and $2.50 a month if I kept the dvr too. I decided the dvr wasn't worth the $19 a month for me so it went back. I couldn't wiat to get a DVR but I am not missing it now that it's gione.

You may have a defective input. the digital coax input should receive local hd channels.

I guess Comcast operates differently in different areas. I guess I have THAT to be thankful about. My 6412 is $9something... essentially $10, no additional for remote. They had no charge for the installation of the CableCARD (thank God... since the guy didn't know what he was doing) and there is no monthly charge for it. When he left, it wasn't even working properly (it hadn't mapped the channels correctly.) Prior to installing the CableCard, many of the cable channels were present, but on odd channels all over the spectrum. There were channels like 92.1, 92.2, 92.3,..... 92.15 etc... These were for the non-HDTV digital channels. The CBS station, which is broadcasted on channel 13 was mapped to 13.2 (I think it was ".2), where on the digital box, it is mapped to 913, which it is now after the CableCARD is working like it is supposed to.

BTW... my TV is the 52G786 (the black 52" version).

This may seem like an odd question, but my wife just shouted up to me that standard def looks like crap. I have a 52g786 with a Comcast HD DVR. To be honest, sometimes SD looks real good, sometimes real bad. We were in Circuit City last weekend looking at Comcast internet, and next to the modems was a signal booster by Motorola. I thought it was another useless gadget, but when I went to CC's site to see what it was, people pretty much loved the thing, especially for internet, but some said it helped their tv reception. I am wondering, would this thing help out the sd channels or is the source the source and this thing won't help out at all.

This may seem like an odd question, but my wife just shouted up to me that standard def looks like crap. I have a 52g786 with a Comcast HD DVR. To be honest, sometimes SD looks real good, sometimes real bad. We were in Circuit City last weekend looking at Comcast internet, and next to the modems was a signal booster by Motorola. I thought it was another useless gadget, but when I went to CC's site to see what it was, people pretty much loved the thing, especially for Internet, but some said it helped their tv reception. I am wondering, would this thing help out the sd channels or is the source the source and this thing won't help out at all.

I had Adelphia in after I installed our 61" JVC. Now I had everything in our new home set up as individual runs and all of them came back to a box in the garage. The picture was OK but poor on a few channels. After looking at the current setup we decided to add a signal amp to the input. The difference was stunning. The signal noise went way down and the SD pictures look much better now.

Remember an amp will only keep the original signal from degrading as its fed through your house. If the signal is crud at the pole then an amp will not help.

I also added Adelphia's Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR box as well. Very cool unit. I run a component feed to the JVC, the HDMI input is reserved for my Oppo DVD player. I run a single coaxial digital wire to my receiver for audio. It works on all channels, analog and digital unlike the old SA box that only output a digital signal on digital channels.

One last item. You may find that amping the signal to your cable modem causes problems. We arranged things at my place to only amplify the signal going to the TV's.

Well my 61z786 lamp is out. July 30 was the date I got the tv.

Anyone who knows the quickest and easiest way to get another lamp asap please tell me. I sure as heck don't expect to pay for it.

I called jvc tonight and of course they are not open til morning. Last time I called durring business hours about another issue they were busy and I could never get ahold of anyone so if anyone has a number I can call that is not busy please post it up or private message me. Thanks.

Hello all,
Just have a couple of quick comments and questions. I have tried to look through the thread but there are a lot of posts here. I picked up a 52G786 last week (I returned a sammy 5078 cause I didn't feel that the 1080p was worth the extra money). My first comment is that the set actually stinks (quite literally). It smells like hot electronics. I keep on waiting for the smell to go away and I am just wondering if anybody else has experienced this. Second, all of the images, including the HD ones, look very grainy. I have Directv and I am using component cables. Would using HDMI help this out? Calibration? Or is this just the way it is. It didn't look that grainy in the store. Anyway, if anybody has any ideas, let me know. Thanks

David

I fell in love with the DiLA PQ long ago and have been waiting for the right time to pull the trigger and call one my own. However, having followed this thread since April I must admit I'm a bit disturbed at the number of problems that have been reported. I know, I know, most of the happy owners never post/comment on their purchase and other brands have their share of problems, too. But, it seems even once contented owners are getting bitten by (dare I say it) JVC quality control isses (e.g. light engine replacements, bulbs blowing prematurely, replacement "xyz" boards, etc).

Don't get me wrong, I really want to own a JVC DiLA (in fact, I have a preorder with TVA for a 56'' JVC 1080p). But, what I absolutely don't want is to be scheduling time off work for warranty repair service four months after buying it. So with that said, please give me some feedback, particularly if you've had problems, as to whether you'd purchase a JVC again if given a choice (out of curiosity, if you wouldn't choose JVC again, what would you buy?).

I'm not trying to be nasty nor am I a DLP/LCD plant, I just need to know if I'm "reading" to much into what I've been seeing in this thread and lately in the JVC "1st Impressions Thread."

Many thanks in advance.

First off, I want to say that I love the PQ on the 52G786 I've had for two weeks. Not a trace of CA, no stuck pixels, amazing HD picture. I've noticed, however, when looking at an all-white or gray screen, that the last 6" or so of the right side of the screen, especially at the corners, is slightly darker than the rest, kind of shadowy with a very slight brownish (maybe a tiny touch of green?) cast. Now that I know it's there, I'll notice when a white object occupies that space on the screen, it's not as white as the rest of the picture. Nothing major, and I probably wouldn't have noticed it otherwise. But since I love everything else about it and now know that it's there..... is there a truly "perfect" set out there? Is slightly uneven screen brightness common on all RPTVs? I know my previous CRT RPTV had similar issues and I gradually stopped noticing it. Am I being too picky?

Would You Buy JVC Again?

I have had the 61Z786 since the end of August. I love this TV. I did have a problem with some small black "spots" on the screen (you can search my previous posts for pictures I posted at the time) which turned out to be tiny pieces of debris on the inside of the screen. JVC referred me to the closest authorized shop to come by and clean the debris off. It was an easy fix.

I would definitely buy this TV again. I think it has a gorgeous picture (especially HD Sports!!!) SD quality is quite decent (not great). DVD's are awesome. I don't really notice the problems many people associate with this set (i.e. poor black levels, too bright) Maybe my eyes are just not that discerning and if that is the case then ignorance is bliss. I am considering getting the set calibrated sometime in the future as I have heard from many here that have had it done that it makes a significant picture improvement. This is also my first HDTV so I also don't have a lot to compare it to. That being said, I did do my homework before making the purchase and the JVC was a perfect match for my watching conditions and what I was looking for. So I really have nothing negative to say about this tv and even though I read this forum pretty regularly, I don't generally feel the need to chime in and write a post to say "Yup - still good!...still happy here!" Now if (or when) my bulb blows I probably will write a post to tell others how long it lasted and how smoothly getting a replacement went. Until then you can all just assume that I am LOVING my TV and reading about all the problems others have which makes me feel even better about my TV!

I had Adelphia in after I installed our 61" JVC. Now I had everything in our new home set up as individual runs and all of them came back to a box in the garage. The picture was OK but poor on a few channels. After looking at the current setup we decided to add a signal amp to the input. The difference was stunning. The signal noise went way down and the SD pictures look much better now.

Remember an amp will only keep the original signal from degrading as its fed through your house. If the signal is crud at the pole then an amp will not help.

I also added Adelphia's Scientific Atlanta 8300HD DVR box as well. Very cool unit. I run a component feed to the JVC, the HDMI input is reserved for my Oppo DVD player. I run a single coaxial digital wire to my receiver for audio. It works on all channels, analog and digital unlike the old SA box that only output a digital signal on digital channels.

One last item. You may find that amping the signal to your cable modem causes problems. We arranged things at my place to only amplify the signal going to the TV's.

Thanks for the info. We haven't pulled the trigger on the Comcast internet yet, but it may be soon because SBC messed up the DSL to my house, only, no other neighbors, and can't fix it. I'm at 300kbps, which really sucks. Two questions for you. What was the quality of your HD before the amplifier? Right now I can find no flaw with HD programming. Only on SD and it does seem like sometimes certain channels are good or bad, depending on the day. Second, I have been seriously considering the Oppo DVD player. Is there that much improvement over a progressive scan player that justifies the extra cost? I got Best Buy bucks when I bought the TV and am considering just getting a progressive scan player using the free money. I currently have a non progressive scan player I bought years ago and am just curious if theres that much of a difference.

Yes a progressive scan player will make a difference, I tested my player with
the progressive mode turned off and without. There definitely is a PQ
improvement with progressive scan.

That being said, the OPPO player is actually a upconverting (480p -> 1080i)
player as well. I do not think you need to spend money on a upconverting
player, a normal progressive one should do. (I have the panasonic DVD-F84)

My 52g886 was built in August. first set defective. Second has a dead pixel but I kept it amyway. I don't have faith in the QC on the set and bought a 3 year warranty. I am VERY happy with the PQ running a cablecard with Comcast. Had a Moto 6412 DVR and the pic was grainy, blocky, noisy etc. I was helping out my folks tonight and had local basketball HD game on their Sony CRT direct view and noticed the same noise in fast movement that I sometimes see on my set. they are one town over but also have Comcast (and a stb but no dvr). Thought this was caused by the JVC but confirmed tonight it IS the feed. This set is very capable of a great pic, and provides it, when a decent signal is provided.

Hope that helps.

Thanks to everyone here! I just received my 56G886 4 days ago. I'm sooooo happy I didn't go with the Sony A10! I have Dish Network hooked up DVI-HDMI and the picture is phenomenal! No rainbows (yes, I see them) and no SDE. The TV is a little (understatement?) bright, but I'm expecting that it will cool down with break-in. To reply to a previous post, yes there was some electronics smell the first couple of days; it's no big deal and fairly common with new electronics. I've adjusted the picture according to posts here and SD looks pretty good. I probably won't have time to run a calibration until after the New Year, due to holidays and a long vacation.

BTW: The JVC stand came missing parts (bolts/brackets) and they also painted the wrong end of one of the silver legs. Hey, what can you expect, you get what you pay for cheap=cheap.

Has anyone else tried the focus adjustment and found it to be worthwhile?

Is it possible to connect firewire (ilink) from the 52g886 to a JVC 30k DVHS and record via the cablecard tuner?

Thanks.

cj3478,

Focus adjustment takes only a few minutes.... On way to check to see if set is in focus is to bring up the menu, and see if it looks sharp, that you can see grid lines for lack of a better word at the monent. The grid being "sharp". (I prefer a blank screen while doing this, instead of a screen in the background with motion)


BTW: Read thru this thread for info on the JVC D-ILA neutral density filter mod procedure to improve black levels: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=547602

Grid lines in the menu? You lost me here.. Can you please elaborate?
I suspect the focus is out on this set, so this is very useful info.

OK, I've been helpful (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6301954&&#post6301954), now I'm hoping someone can help me. For some unknown reason my RF ATSC/digital cable input looks green tinged. I don't have a full green screen but everything looks green like you would see if you fed component to a projector that was expecting RGB. Here's the kicker, if I choose the PIP option the windowed image looks perfect, but when I go back to full screen it's all green. All other inputs work perfectly. I can use digital cable, OTA antenna, or nothing, the input looks green. I unplugged the set for some time, nothing. The service menu does not indicate any faults. BTW, this input worked pefectly and suddenly one day it was green tinged.

Any help is appreciated before I (gulp) call service. Thanks.

I had that same issue with my first G786, I am on my third now. I am not sure if there is any simple resolution as I just returned it. The problem seemed to appear for no apparent reason whatsoever. The set I have now also has issues; it has red tinted black in the lower left corner and appears slightly out of focus. I have yet to see a Gx86 that had good color purity, but this is usually more apparent in white background rather than black. The white pattern is actually slightly better than the two previous units. The yellow tinge in the lower right corner was terrible on the last one I had.

First off, I want to say that I love the PQ on the 52G786 I've had for two weeks. Not a trace of CA, no stuck pixels, amazing HD picture. I've noticed, however, when looking at an all-white or gray screen, that the last 6" or so of the right side of the screen, especially at the corners, is slightly darker than the rest, kind of shadowy with a very slight brownish (maybe a tiny touch of green?) cast. Now that I know it's there, I'll notice when a white object occupies that space on the screen, it's not as white as the rest of the picture. Nothing major, and I probably wouldn't have noticed it otherwise. But since I love everything else about it and now know that it's there..... is there a truly "perfect" set out there? Is slightly uneven screen brightness common on all RPTVs? I know my previous CRT RPTV had similar issues and I gradually stopped noticing it. Am I being too picky?
Earlier in this thread, I brought up the same issue. It seems as if pretty much all the JVC G series do this, so this is normal. I turned the color temp to HIGH, that helped. I also turned down the green in the service menu, dunno if you like doing that kind of thing or not. I know it's there a little yet, but I'm used to it. Fact is, you don't have too many situations where you notice it, unless you sit there looking for it! Trust me, if everything else about the set is good, and you are not a huge Hockey fan :D , this set is great! (I was worried a couple months ago about this, but I've pretty much forgotten it unless I stumble onto the topic here.)

Thanks for the info. We haven't pulled the trigger on the Comcast internet yet, but it may be soon because SBC messed up the DSL to my house, only, no other neighbors, and can't fix it. I'm at 300kbps, which really sucks. Two questions for you. What was the quality of your HD before the amplifier? Right now I can find no flaw with HD programming. Only on SD and it does seem like sometimes certain channels are good or bad, depending on the day. Second, I have been seriously considering the Oppo DVD player. Is there that much improvement over a progressive scan player that justifies the extra cost? I got Best Buy bucks when I bought the TV and am considering just getting a progressive scan player using the free money. I currently have a non progressive scan player I bought years ago and am just curious if theres that much of a difference.


PQ on any digital feed, HD or SD will not improve with an amplifier, what will improve is signal reliability, less "bit error" means that the signal will get pixalated less often. It will improve the picture on analog SD by increasing the signal to noise (s/n) ratio. Analog signal noise looks like the background pixels are always moving a little. It also presents itself as reduced horizontal resolution. For best picture use HDMI, 3 Wire component, S Video, composite, channel 3 cable feed in that order. IE HDMI is best, analog channel 3/4 is the worst. That said, I find the 3 wire component from the Scientific Atlanta 8300HD box to be excellent. I configured the SA box to put out a maximum resolution signal of 720P, this matches the resolution of the JVC and prevents an additional up/down conversion of the signal. I have my Oppo set to 720p as well.

As for the Oppo. It is rated as one of the best DVD players you can buy, period. To get the progressive/upconverted signal you have to use the HDMI input on your JVC. If you want to use the analog input for DVD's than you do not want the Oppo, go with another well rated DVD player that offers the progressive signal on the analog outputs.

Another item we added at the same time was a Harmony remote, the 880. Check ebay for good pricing. It takes a while to get it completely configured for your system but well worth the effort. I did run into a problem with the Oppo and the Harmony, The Harmony defaults to the original remote that is no longer supplied with the Oppo. I had to use the Harmony web site/programming system to examine the new remote and after it looked at 3 or 4 button presses it understood that I had the new remote and reconfigured itself. Once you get the hang of programming the Harmony its really very cool.

The rest of my system consists of a Onkyo SR500 receiver driving an unusual assortment of speakers. The mains are a pair of ESS Heil Air Transformers, the center is a pair of AR M1's sitting together on a shelf attached to the top of the JVC and the rears are a small pair of Radio Shack Minimus 10's. It sounds far better then you would think from reading the list.

All video routing is handled at the JVC, and is automatically switched by the Harmony remote. This configuration became necessary because of the different outputs of the various devices I have attached. I use digital audio links wherever possible. Fiber or Coax, both work well.

A new receiver and rear speakers are on the wish list. Replacing the ESS's would prove to be very expensive to get a comparable sound and I just don't listen to it enough to justify that level of expense.

I am a video engineer, I have built 3 Low Power TV stations and continue to engineer one of them. Back in 1999 I was involved in acquiring and working with some of the first HD cameras to be installed in Florida but this JVC was the first HD TV I have installed in my home. Yes, the black level issues annoy me a bit and I am still looking into adding a ND filter to the JVC, but even without that the quality of the picture we are now getting is impressive, in both SD and HD, analog and digital. IMHO I find the JVC to have the best bang for your buck ratio of all of the large screen TV's currently available.

Enjoy

If it were not for the fact that I see DLP rainbows, I would not even consider the JVC DILA sets. I am not the only one here that has gone through two exchanges due to what amounts to near nonexistent QC. If you happen to get a good set, you are really pretty lucky, considering all three sets that I have had so far exhibited significant CA, dot crawl in magenta and red, and at least some degree of ghosting due to circuitry issues. A few simply test patterns can be quite revealing. Without at least some adjustments in the service menu (RGB Drives), they are far too bright for my viewing habits.

Just about any HD display is going to look good, that is simply the nature of HD itself, but few of the sets I have had could display what I consider to be an "exceptional" HD picture. That includes three different Panasonic RPLCD's and one Toshiba DLP along with the three JVC's. None of these were the most expensive of their genre, and I accept the fact that for less than $3k you are not likely going to get a "perfect" HD picture from a microchip display; these sets were all returned due to issues other than their substandard HD picture quality. Basically what I am saying is that if you really think that a sub $3k microdisplay HDTV is jaw dropping, awesome, impressive, outstanding, etc., you probably need to get out more often. ;)

As some of you may have read I'm desperately wanting to buy a JVC but scared stiff due to their QC issues. Many of you have been kind enough to PM/reply regarding your experiences and that has been very reassuring. However, when HDTV Wizards like LMDA1 and Mechanic (and maybe even Kid Red for the umpteenth time?) get bitten by the JVC QC issue I really have to stop and ponder....

In a few minutes I'll be off to a B&M store to compare a 56'' 720 JVC v. a 56'' Toshiba 1080p DLP. On the surface they probably sound miles apart but after much analysis I've decided they're not (assuming you overlook display technology). The Toshiba in all its 1080p glory won't do 1080p over HDMI but it does have a superiour user interface, card reader, and two HDMI ports. It's only a couple hundred more than the JVC and having searched the internet high and low I've only uncovered a few users w/ service issues. My goal at the B&M is to see if I can get Finding Nemo to look as fluid and film like as it does on the JVC. And, too hopefully not see rainbows.

I've got to be honest, I want the JVC, but what I've been reading isn't assuring in the least. Help me people! Why shouldn't I get the Toshiba?

The Toshiba I had (HM95) was a pretty nice set, but it did have some issues with noise in the darker gray scales. Perhaps something to watch out for with them, but it was likely just a problem with a specific batch of that model. I liked the build quality of the Toshiba, and the user interface was very nice. I do not think that the 720p JVC can really compare that well to a 1080p set, but that's just my opinion. I am sure the 1080p JVC would be more competitive in that regard.

I think what is really more important is the condition of the set that you actually receive, as things can differ quite drastically from what you see on the display floor. Sort of makes in-store comparisons and reviews rather worthless from that standpoint. Pick the set you like and then see what they drop into your living room. Make sure the store has a good return policy, then you can always swap it for the other set. This allows you some freedom to make some real tests of its performance using reference patterns, etc. Even what might seem to be more obvious issues like screen tilt can go completely unnoticed without checking with a test pattern. Its best to have the set delivered, as they will generally pick it up and deliver a replacement without any additional delivery charges. I do not think that any HDTV's are free of potential QC issues, you simply have to cover your bases which is exactly why the 30 day return/exchange policies exist.
Anything you can do in the show room to help make your initial decision more precise is invaluable to reduce potential for an exchange or return. One thing I have done is to copy some 1280 X 720 jpg test patterns to a memory card. All these sets have card readers now. :) Nice little pocket sized test system, much better than the junk they display at the showrooms.
Here (http://cable_comcast.home.comcast.net/pattern1.jpg) is a pretty good general purpose image.

I know that most on this forum are well versed in the whole HD thing but I am learning and have another question.

What exactly does the JVC scaling do? I kinda thought that it would auto up convert. If this is true, how does it work? I do not see anything on the menu or remote that allows me to access this. I was going to buy an up converting DVD player but was advised to save my $ and wait for HD DVD and that the JVC does the same thing as the up converting player would do. If this is the case, how do I determine that this is occurring? When I play a DVD movie, I can not tell if it is up converted or not.
Perhaps I am way off base and my ignorance is beaming brightly but if I don't ask, I can't learn.
If anyone would not mind in taking a minute to educate me, I would be very grateful.

Thanks in advance and my apologies if I am offending anyone.

JVC HD56G688
D* HR10 - 250 via HDMI
JVC XV-N512S DVD via progressive component

I had that same issue with my first G786, I am on my third now. I am not sure if there is any simple resolution as I just returned it. The problem seemed to appear for no apparent reason whatsoever. The set I have now also has issues; it has red tinted black in the lower left corner and appears slightly out of focus. I have yet to see a Gx86 that had good color purity, but this is usually more apparent in white background rather than black. The white pattern is actually slightly better than the two previous units. The yellow tinge in the lower right corner was terrible on the last one I had.


Hi all:

I've had my JVC 52G786 for about a month now, like someone else said it did break in after a week, it was either that or my eyes did, lol. The JVC pq is stunning and I don't think any brand can touch it at the $2k to $2.5K range. I can really tell now how ****** SD signals really are and how those old scanlines were good in fooling us. This is my first HD set but have been researching and waiting for the price to be right. Anyway, Like Mechanic, I can also see the pinkish and yellowish hues. When I run DVE w/ a white reference screen on my Panny S77 (480P) hdmi to my JVC52G786, I can see the pinkish red hue hovering around the lower left and a yellowish hue toward the far right of the screen. Again these are noticable the most when watching a bright white background. Changing it from low to high did help like DIGITALHAZE mentioned. Now only when I force my self to look for it, does it pop up.

Anyway next up is the N-mod filter. Any tips or opinions on black level improvement from the filter mod? Thanks.

John
(CALI)

I know that most on this forum are well versed in the whole HD thing but I am learning and have another question.

What exactly does the JVC scaling do? I kinda thought that it would auto up convert. If this is true, how does it work? I do not see anything on the menu or remote that allows me to access this. I was going to buy an up converting DVD player but was advised to save my $ and wait for HD DVD and that the JVC does the same thing as the up converting player would do. If this is the case, how do I determine that this is occurring? When I play a DVD movie, I can not tell if it is up converted or not.
Perhaps I am way off base and my ignorance is beaming brightly but if I don't ask, I can't learn.
If anyone would not mind in taking a minute to educate me, I would be very grateful.

Thanks in advance and my apologies if I am offending anyone.

JVC HD56G688
D* HR10 - 250 via HDMI
JVC XV-N512S DVD via progressive component

Steff3:

Only had my set a month, but all the upcoverting on the JVC is done internally. You can't turn it on or off via the menu, or set the JVC to show signals at lower resolutions. All 480i,480p and 1080i signals are converted to 720P. I had an old sony 5-disc(progressive) that i hooked up w/ component and it really looked bad. Blacks were terrible. But I could tell the difference switching it back and forth between prog and non-prog. Anyway, I ended up getting a Panny S77 to feed to the JVC. Thought for sure I'd see a big difference letting it, (S77), upconvert to 720p. NOPE. 1080i? NOPE. The player actually looked amazing and detailed leaving it at 480P hdmi and letting the JVC upconvert it instead of the Panny upscaling. So my advice, go w/ a very good progressive scan player vs. the extra bucks of $300+ upconverting player.

John
(CALI)

I have had the JVC 61Z786 for about a month. Before, I had the Samsung DLP, but had to return it due to seeing rainbows.

In reading this thread, I keep seeing everyone brag on the JVC HD with words like stunning, etc. My JVC set just doesn't seem as sharp in HD as the Samsung did, and I am wondering if I have a set problem, or would a caibration help?

Two primary things: 1) background images just don't leap out like they did when I viewed HD on the previous set, almost to the point of not being in focus (I have done the focus adjustment). 2) solid color backbrounds appear to be grainy with color. For instance, a black wall will look like it has some colored pixels in it.

Any advice? Service call, calibration, or am I just too picky?

Thanks.

Steff3:

Only had my set a month, but all the upcoverting on the JVC is done internally. You can't turn it on or off via the menu, or set the JVC to show signals at lower resolutions. All 480i,480p and 1080i signals are converted to 720P. I had an old sony 5-disc(progressive) that i hooked up w/ component and it really looked bad. Blacks were terrible. But I could tell the difference switching it back and forth between prog and non-prog. Anyway, I ended up getting a Panny S77 to feed to the JVC. Thought for sure I'd see a big difference letting it, (S77), upconvert to 720p. NOPE. 1080i? NOPE. The player actually looked amazing and detailed leaving it at 480P hdmi and letting the JVC upconvert it instead of the Panny upscaling. So my advice, go w/ a very good progressive scan player vs. the extra bucks of $300+ upconverting player.

John
(CALI)

John,
Thank you for your response. It helps but I am still a bit confused. How can I tell if the JVC TV is upconverting the 480P from the JVC DVD player (connected component progressive) to 720P? I do not see anywhere where it shows and I am not convinced it is working properly.
Thanks.

John,
Thank you for your response. It helps but I am still a bit confused. How can I tell if the JVC TV is upconverting the 480P from the JVC DVD player (connected component progressive) to 720P? I do not see anywhere where it shows and I am not convinced it is working properly.
Thanks.


Steff:

Like I said I've only had the set for about a month, still messing w/ settings. But I think one way to see if its upconverting is to go to the service menu.

1.) Make sure your JVCgx86 is on the right input for your cable box.

2.) On the JVC gx86's remote, move the sliders to VCR & TV

3.) Press sleep timer

4.) Within 3 seconds press display + video status

5.) Then select No. 1 for adjust settings

If you feed it a 1080i signal from say discovery channel you'll get a 1080i signal status. If you change the channel to espn HD you recieve a 720P signal status. And if you go to an SD channel you should get a 525i signal status.

Now if you swap the input for your dvd player and do the same 1 - 5, you should get 525P signal status. That where I'm also alil confused myself. Maybe one of the advanced members here can tell us why were not getting 720p signals for both Sd channels and a progessive DVD signal. Thought all signals got converted to 720, but maybe I'm wrong.

John
(CALI)

I have had the JVC 61Z786 for about a month. Before, I had the Samsung DLP, but had to return it due to seeing rainbows.

In reading this thread, I keep seeing everyone brag on the JVC HD with words like stunning, etc. My JVC set just doesn't seem as sharp in HD as the Samsung did, and I am wondering if I have a set problem, or would a caibration help?

Two primary things: 1) background images just don't leap out like they did when I viewed HD on the previous set, almost to the point of not being in focus (I have done the focus adjustment). 2) solid color backbrounds appear to be grainy with color. For instance, a black wall will look like it has some colored pixels in it.

Any advice? Service call, calibration, or am I just too picky?

Thanks.

Tebarne:

Hmmmm. Not sure about the 61Z786 as far as focus and pixelation. My 52G786 was very sharp and "out of your mind Bright" right out of the box. It broke in after a couple of weeks. Adjusted a few settings, everything off except gamma, and notched down the detail to about -14. Sports really shines along w/ the tonight show. Colors are amazing during those broadcasts. Are you sure its not the signal coming in? Some days w/ adelphia (moxi dvr) here in socal, channels look drop-dead gorgeous and other days the compression is so bad, the pixelation and grains are VERY visable.

Have a question too, during fast actions scenes, sometimes I get smearing of pixels, is this due to the JVC on high motion video or the cable source's quality? Any ideas?

John
(CALI)

i tweaked on the manual focus adjustment this weekend and it does nothing, mine was set out of box as good as it can get. no harm in trying.

Have a question too, during fast actions scenes, sometimes I get smearing of pixels, is this due to the JVC on high motion video or the cable source's quality? Any ideas?

John
(CALI)

At one time I assumed that this was just macroblocking due to cable signal compression. I conducted my own test where I compared the OTA signal to the STB during a fairly good HD presentation. The same amount of motion related pixelation was present between the two signals. The consensus is that OTA HD signals are not compressed, so my conclusions were that this was being caused by the processor in the set being a bit too slow. That should not come as too much of a surprise to anyone, since the bean counter shortcuts they have taken with these sets seem to be quite prolific.
I can not imagine turning the detail down at all on these sets, as the JVC LCOS picture already has less clarity than other technologies I have examined. I think that those who have had the opportunity to examine other technologies in their home for at least a moderate duration are less inclined to call the JVC LCOS picture exceptional. Its all a point of reference, and IMO, a truely stunning HD picture like that offered by >$10k plasma or a Qualia will make the JVC's HD seem like a bad SD feed. Even most DLP's in the same price range put it to shame.


Two primary things: 1) background images just don't leap out like they did when I viewed HD on the previous set, almost to the point of not being in focus (I have done the focus adjustment). 2) solid color backbrounds appear to be grainy with color. For instance, a black wall will look like it has some colored pixels in it.

Any advice? Service call, calibration, or am I just too picky?

Thanks.

Issue (1) is likely due to the reduced clarity that these sets seem to display as a rule.
Issue (2) is called "dot crawl". It is a form of circuitry related noise common among low end microchip displays. You can minimize this somewhat by turning down the brightness levels and switching "off" the digital noise clear feature. There are two interelated service menu offset adjustments that will help a bit here also: S014 HD CR OF, and S013 HD CB OF
You have to adjust these against the pattern displayed by selecting PREPARE 013, along with a gray level displayed on the screen. This is a very sensitive adjustment, and there is only one setting for the two offsets that will result in reduced overall noise. IOW, the OOTB settings are generally only off by small amount, but this is still quite enough to be unacceptable. Anyone that has a PC hooked up via HDMI or Component can adjust this quite easily. JVC seems to use a set of stock settings rather than any individual optimization for each display. For example, the "stock" setting for S014 is typically 57 and S013 is 56. On this latest set, the optimized setting for S014 was 59 and for S013 it was 57. These are simply the values where both the blue and pink noise is minimized.

Went to a B&M today and picked up the Toshiba 56mx195. Gotta be honest, I haven't plunked down this much money and had such a sense of apathy since I bought our mini-van. However, I took Mechanic's advice and bought via a B&M store just in case I absolutely hate the TV and need to exchange it for my true love - JVC's DiLA. But, until JVC's QC improves I'm thinking I'm gonna be stuck with this TV for a while. Surprisingly though, I didn't get taken to the cleaners ($$$) as badly as I initally feared.

In case you're wondering, the only reason I pulled the trigger now instead of waiting is simply due to the fact that the holidays are approaching and we're going to have a house full of people for over a month. My bride has been nudging me to make a decision for weeks so that we can get everything in place (pretty lucky to have a Bride like mine, huh!). Anyway, the set arrives on Thursday. If anyone's interested, I'll share my thoughts as a DILA lover who felt compelled to turn to the Dark Side.

Went to a B&M today and picked up the Toshiba 56mx195. Gotta be honest, I haven't plunked down this much money and had such a sense of apathy since I bought our mini-van. However, I took Mechanic's advice and bought via a B&M store just in case I absolutely hate the TV and need to exchange it for my true love - JVC's DiLA. But, until JVC's QC improves I'm thinking I'm gonna be stuck with this TV for a while. Surprisingly though, I didn't get taken to the cleaners ($$$) as badly as I initally feared.

In case you're wondering, the only reason I pulled the trigger now instead of waiting is simply due to the fact that the holidays are approaching and we're going to have a house full of people for over a month. My bride has been nudging me to make a decision for weeks so that we can get everything in place (pretty lucky to have a Bride like mine, huh!). Anyway, the set arrives on Thursday. If anyone's interested, I'll share my thoughts as a DILA lover who felt compelled to turn to the Dark Side.
If you do not see rainbows, then I think you made the right decision. The onscreen TV Guide is pretty cool, and the Toshiba's deliver one of the best pictures when connected to a PC via HDMI that I have seen to date. Even the buttons on the front of the set are of much higher quality than that offered by other manufacturers. The Toshiba remotes have a nice metallic look and quality feel to them, with a well thought out button set.
I was able to obtain a pretty good picture using component to attach my PC to the JVC's, but the picture from HDMI to PC connection was a joke.

Chronos56

JVC D-ILA Neutral Density Filter mod procedure: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=547602

Hey everyone, newb here. I have to make 5 posts before I can attach an image of a problem I'm having. Bear with me for the next 4 posts and see what you think.

I did check through this thread as much as possible and couldn't find anyone that had the same problem as I. 3 more posts...,

For some reason I periodically get little squares that fill the screen, so the whole picture is distorted.

This happens regardless of what video source I'm watching, and when I switch to a different source the problem continues.

The problem will continue for 2 or 3 minutes, then fix itself. It does seem to be happening more and more often as time goes on. Probably once an hour, for 2 minutes or so.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/SKOL/Random005.jpg

Any thoughts on what causes this, or what I can check to fix it? Like I said it happens about once an hour, and lasts for maybe two minutes then fixes itself. Changing inputs makes no difference, the problem persists until eventually it fixes itself.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

Maybe connecting the yellow video composite cable would help. :p

Serio, I don't have a clue. My set has been problem free since I got it a month ago. Of course, by saying this, I have jinxed it.

Good luck.

SKOL - I had a very similar problem.
Nobody ever had any advice on it. I am exchanging for a new unit from the place I bought it from, so I don't have any info on what was actually wrong with the thing.

Skol - see page 72 for my post about my problem.

Chronos56

JVC D-ILA Neutral Density Filter mod procedure: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=547602


this too
http://www.flickr.com/photos/33214428@N00/sets/931838/

Skol -

FYI, mine is also getting worse as time goes on. Here is a most recent picture. Your best bet is probably to just exchange the unit if you still can. I'm hoping that it really is the TV and not some interferance or something, but i'm pretty convinced it's the TV.

Issue (1) is likely due to the reduced clarity that these sets seem to display as a rule.
Issue (2) is called "dot crawl". It is a form of circuitry related noise common among low end microchip displays. You can minimize this somewhat by turning down the brightness levels and switching "off" the digital noise clear feature. There are two interelated service menu offset adjustments that will help a bit here also: S014 HD CR OF, and S013 HD CB OF
You have to adjust these against the pattern displayed by selecting PREPARE 013, along with a gray level displayed on the screen. This is a very sensitive adjustment, and there is only one setting for the two offsets that will result in reduced overall noise. IOW, the OOTB settings are generally only off by small amount, but this is still quite enough to be unacceptable. Anyone that has a PC hooked up via HDMI or Component can adjust this quite easily. JVC seems to use a set of stock settings rather than any individual optimization for each display. For example, the "stock" setting for S014 is typically 57 and S013 is 56. On this latest set, the optimized setting for S014 was 59 and for S013 it was 57. These are simply the values where both the blue and pink noise is minimized.

search my posts here i detailed this a while back, for any who wants to try.

Steff, etc:

If you see a picture on the JVC, it is upconverting 480i/p to 720p, or downconverting 1080i to 720p, or is receiving a 720p signal to begin with. These microdisplays are fixed pixel displays. They only display in the mode they were built to display: 720 or 1080 (yes, some LCDs display slightly different numbers of lines of resolution, but it's close to 720). The display chip is the determinant. CRTs use electron guns and can often display in two different lines of resolution modes: 480 & 1080. I think for a while nice CRT displays were available that could display all three: 480, 720 & 1080. LCoS (DiLA), LCD, DLP & plasma are all fixed pixel displays. They have no ability to say, display a 480 signal in 480.

- - - - - - - -

Actually, OTA signals ARE compressed. That is the nature of the ATSC system. The move to digital signalling allows varying amounts of compression, but there is always some. Probably less than any other delivery method, though. The best HD picture will be from an OTA station that is not multicasting. That is, they are sending only the one program. However, many stations send 2 or more programs ("sub channels") and that degrades the picture. Up to 6 SD programs can be and sometimes are sent in the bandwidth "space" of 1 analog channel (e.g.- ch 66 in No. VA). Up to 4 SD programs is more common. Our local PBS station, WETA 26, sends out one "HD" program on 26-1 and one SD program on 26-2. Sometimes they pull it off, but any motion or great detail (god forbid leaves moving in a breeze) and the blocking is horrible on large screen TVs like my JVC 61". On a 27" it probably looks fine.

for sh@#s and giggles i plugged my powerbook g4 via dvi to hdmi dongle into the 52z, no issues whatsoever. played a dvd(episode3), played snes emu for several hours so as for "pc" to jvc it works great.

Did you try the powerbook to JVC in a widescreen mode while doing WP, spreadsheet or surfing? Might be very revealing to know the answer.

Everyone is entitled to their opinion regarding the picture quality of JVC DILA's, but you have to take into account the amount of money these sets cost. I would have preferred a plasma, but I really didn't want to spend the extra cash. I also have a huge picture window running the length of my living room (reflection issues w/plasma screens). I spent months researching televisions online and watching them at numerous stores here in the SF Bay Area. I must admit I was planning on buying a DLP, but I ended up seeing rainbows. Is it even possible to watch a black and white movie on DLP w/o rainbows? LCD has a very sharp picture but they look terrible (IMO) when you see a snowfield or sky, the SDE effect really pops out. My friend had a Sony and the SDE effect drove me nuts.

There is not one microdisplay that is perfect; they all have their pros and cons. You have to decide which cons you can live with or spend a lot more money. Me personally, I would rather have a slightly softer picture and be able to view black and white movies w/o rainbows, view skiing DVD's w/o the SDE effect, and view a brighter picture from greater angles.

My 61Z786 was upgraded from firmware f155 to f163 but I can't find any differences or they are just eluding me.

The cable card issue of outputting only digital channel audio via the digital optical output is still present, when you tune in an analog channel the tv is still outputting the last digital channel audio.

So, what did JVC fix?

I didn't expect them to output analog channel audio via the digital optical out but I did expect them to turn the audio off on the digitial optical output when not in a digital channel.


Strange, mine shows up as F15C. Is this something that anyone can do if they have the firmware update card? Or do I need a tech to come out and do it. And will I get the upgrade just because it is outdated?

Steff, etc:

If you see a picture on the JVC, it is upconverting 480i/p to 720p, or downconverting 1080i to 720p, or is receiving a 720p signal to begin with. These microdisplays are fixed pixel displays. They only display in the mode they were built to display: 720 or 1080 (yes, some LCDs display slightly different numbers of lines of resolution, but it's close to 720). The display chip is the determinant. CRTs use electron guns and can often display in two different lines of resolution modes: 480 & 1080. I think for a while nice CRT displays were available that could display all three: 480, 720 & 1080. LCoS (DiLA), LCD, DLP & plasma are all fixed pixel displays. They have no ability to say, display a 480 signal in 480.



Navychop:

Still a little intersted why the 480i and 480p signals to the JVC gx86 show up as 525i & 525p singals on the service menu. Any ideas?

John
(cali)

Did you try the powerbook to JVC in a widescreen mode while doing WP, spreadsheet or surfing? Might be very revealing to know the answer.

the set went to full/wide, you can change it on the remote to regular or whatever, i think the mac output widescreen through the cable, the dvd was correct ratio, the snes emu was correct as well 4x3, the firefox browser window was widescreened but it wasnt a bad thing. it seemed to have a little flicker every now and then but i could read web pages from my couch. it seems to not be much trouble for the mac as most of those apple displays are 16x9 and the little mac knows what it is plugged into. it even said jvc 52z575 in its properties panel. you calibrate the display through the mac to apple specs.

FYI - I just got a replacement unit for my HD56G886, it was manufactured Oct. 2005 and has a firmware of F168.

FYI - I just got a replacement unit for my HD56G886, it was manufactured Oct. 2005 and has a firmware of F168.

do you have the ability to test the optical out issue with the set continuing to output the audio from the last channel ? my august build with f163 has the issue.

Had the set for a few days, but can only get analog signal. My analog signal is fairly strong with a decent pic on analog tvs, so I was told by dealer I should get a good HD signal. Is this true?? The analog pic sucks with OTA antenna. I have a dishnet DVR522, and this signal gives no better pq than the ota. seems that it should be somewhat better. I have tried using different cables and inputs with no PQ improvement. Get lots of pixelization and blurring with motion. Football fields look lika green blur. Any suggestions?? BTW I live about 20 miles from downtwon Portland, Or. PBS is HD 24/7 and cbs,nbc,& fox all broadcast HD quite a bit.
Thanks

medman, if your locals are uhf, the analog reception wont have too much bearing as they are vhf, the antennaweb.org will let you input your address and tell you what type of antenna to use. i live within 25 miles of all my local towers, they are all vhf non digital except cbs which is ota vhf/uhf.

Hey Guys

I am getting my light engine replaced. What else should i have him check

HDMI upgrade, software update ?, etc.

If someone could give me a heads up, that would be great.

Thanks
P

Hey Darthrsg,
Thanks for the reply.
I called JVC and found out that I needed to run setup again choosing cable input, instead of of the air input, even though I am using an OTA antenna. Go figure! I did this and low and behold I have a terrific HD PQ with 80+ signal on all local channels but CBS. Can't get digital or HD with CBS for some reason. I am going to call them. ABC, NBC, OBP, Fox and some others all are digital, as well as quite a bit of HD programming. WOW, What a picture!!!
Now I am going to have to decide what to do about my Dishnetwork DVR, since the 522 is only analog and doesn't have digital or HD output. BUMMER!
Suggestions readily accepted. Thanks.

I'll weigh in with my experience. I've had my JVC 61Z786 for two months now, and I'm very pleased. No QC issues at all - with the picture, the inputs or anything else. Now, it's only two months, so I'm not about to brag very loudly. But still, compared to the horror stories I've read here, I guess I'm happy that I have a product with no problems.

The picture quality is noticeably better than DLP and LCDRP sets I've seen hooked up to the same cable system I'm on. Perhaps I don't have the critical eye or experience that Mechanic has, but I am exceptionally pleased with the HD picture quality on my set, and I'm even very pleased with the SD pictures on most channels. Sure, the picture looks lousy on some channels, but overall I've been pleased. I'm not unhappy with my purchase in any way so far. Now, should my bulb burn out prematurely or I start having light engine problems, I'll probably sing a different tune. But my buddy has replaced a light engine and two bulbs in his Sony LCDRP set in the first 12 months, so these problems are not limited to the JVC.

deanbrew, i too am happy with my set. i read these forums for months before buying and the jvc crowd complains less. when i got my set i knew what to look for and expected a blown bulb. so when the engine swap happened i wasnt going to sue or anything, i put faith in the forum denziens and jvc service(which is awesome). the set is going on 4 months with no issues except my lack of local ota hd. but that is not jvc's fault it is the deep south's.l :)

deanbrew, i too am happy with my set. i read these forums for months before buying and the jvc crowd complains less. when i got my set i knew what to look for and expected a blown bulb. so when the engine swap happened i wasnt going to sue or anything, i put faith in the forum denziens and jvc service(which is awesome). the set is going on 4 months with no issues except my lack of local ota hd. but that is not jvc's fault it is the deep south's.l :)

I'm usually silent here and have been reading this forum since last year. I rec'd my 61Z786 with the swivel stand in May. I'm totally satisfied with the set. The hd is awesome, some sd very good and some sd absolutely sucks. The set had distinct green push but that has diminished greatly. Other than that I've had no other issues with the set at all. I can't wait till early Dec., because UMR is doing a cal tour in the Philly area and is scheduled to do my set on the 7th. The set and the stand are great. I'd recommend this tv to anyone in this price range.
Cheers! :)

The only thing I have done different was install a new bulb last week. I have my sat and dvd going through the hdmi input and it looks good, but when I went to my tv input it is a green screen. I even hooked up my sat to input 1 just to make sure that the other inputs were fine and it looked good. What is going on here?

That is the exact issue that one of the sets I returned had. The real kicker is that if you select the PIP or freeze feature, the picture in the smaller box looks completely normal. I also found out that the BB here in Murray UT that I purchased the set from put this same defective set out on the floor and sold it as an open box. The manager actually tried to tell me that they could not see any problems. I dont think he even new what a digital tuner was, and I am sure the only "test" they did was to hook their feed up to the component input. I always thought that these retail stores returned sets that were exhanged due to a "reported" defect right back to JVC. Guess now we know where all these open box sets really come from. Just thought I would mention this in case you live in Utah, but I doubt that this is even close to an isolated problem with these sets. Basically a time bomb waiting to happen.

The scary thing is that I doubt the average consumer even hooks their cable up directly in order to use or even check the ATSC tuner, they simply attach their STB to the component or HDMI input and call it good; since this issue seems to occur out of the blue, how would they even know that it had happened.

Strange, mine shows up as F15C. Is this something that anyone can do if they have the firmware update card? Or do I need a tech to come out and do it. And will I get the upgrade just because it is outdated?


Yes, it requires a service tech visit. Although it's as simple as inserting an SD card in the back of the set. It took the tech 5 minutes. Service tech refused to let me make a copy of the SD card...but I knew that will be the case since JVC didn't send the SD card to me directly...

Note: this update was for a JVC HD-ILA 61Z786 and may not apply to other models.

Ya well I guess I will get a list of questions together and have them fix them all.

I also noticed that every dvd player that I have hooked up to this set and when I calibrate it using the avia disc whenever I adjust the contrast or briteness on the high end it goes out of synch. It gets the blank snowy screen. This is with 5 different dvd players I have tried. It only happens for a brief moment and then gets back to normal. I also noticed yesterday there were noises like stuff moving inside my set.

I also checked out test patterns with a gray screen and white screen and the bottom right hand side the size of a large softball is tinted yellow. It was never there when I got the set in the end of July.

this is not jvc related, but the dts audio on Stealth is friggin awesome, the first 5 minutes are glorious, give it a try on eleven.

anyone use a harmony 880 with these jvc sets? are there any quirks or tricks to using it? Santa is bringing one to my house and i thought id check with you guys.

I have a Harmony 628. No problems

Works with all functions fine. If you do have any problems, harmony customer service will set it up for you, just the way you like.

P

anyone use a harmony 880 with these jvc sets? are there any quirks or tricks to using it? Santa is bringing one to my house and i thought id check with you guys.

I use an 880 with my 56g786. It works great. The buttons are a bit small, but overall I'm pretty happy with it. The wife can actually use the TV and it's related accessories now. It makes switching inputs as it should have been from JCV. I also like the 30 second skip it does on the DVR that the DVR remote wont do. There are a few threads in the remote forum with good info.

this is not jvc related, but the dts audio on Stealth is friggin awesome, the first 5 minutes are glorious, give it a try on eleven.

I agree. Sounded friggin awesome in my room as well. To keep this on topic, I watched it on a 56" JVC D-ILA.

I agree. Sounded friggin awesome in my room as well. To keep this on topic, I watched it on a 56" JVC D-ILA.

I watched War of the Worlds last night on my 61inch z786 and the sound durring the first 20 minutes blew me away. 2000 watts just from the fronts and center. :D

Hello,

I have had my 61z886 since about 9-1-5. Yesterday I noticed that about a 5 inch in diameter very faint greenish spot has formed near the bottom center of my screen. Its not ON the screen but in the display, like the light isnt lighting up correctly or something. Also the right side of the display seems dimmed slightly. Has this happened with anyone else? I am hoping this will be covered under warranty?

I have checked all my settings and nothing has changed. I am kinda ticked off about this because I am on vacation for the next several days and planned on logging some hours watching DVD's etc... its not TOO bad where its TOO distracting, but annoying especially now that I realize its there and I catch myself staring at it. If anyone is interested in seeing pics of this let me know and I will post.

J

term,

Please post pics.

Thanks.

The only thing I have done different was install a new bulb last week. I have my sat and dvd going through the hdmi input and it looks good, but when I went to my tv input it is a green screen. I even hooked up my sat to input 1 just to make sure that the other inputs were fine and it looked good. What is going on here?

Chip, It seems there are several of us here with that same problem (see my previous post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6523850&&#post6523850). I'll be calling service shortly, please post any findings as you or others address this specific issue.

Chip, It seems there are several of us here with that same problem (see my previous post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6523850&&#post6523850). I'll be calling service shortly, please post any findings as you or others address this specific issue.

I think that we need to get together as a group and complain. I am just thinking how much this set will cost me down the road when my warranty is up. I do have the 5 year warranty, but I was planning on moving this tv upstairs for normal everyday viewing in 5 years and putting a projector in my home theater room. The bulb issue alone will cost me about $500 per year to keep it running. That is just plain wrong. I think JVC should recall these sets and give us new ones that work.

I agree. When you spend over $2k for something, you expect it to at least work as intended for an extensive period of time, and not be defective "by design". I am also interested in the exact cause of the green ATSC screen issue. As something like this can happen at just about any time in the life of the set, I would imagine it is an issue that any owner would be interested in. Perhaps a poll to see how many have encountered this would be an idea?

Hello,

I have had my 61z886 since about 9-1-5. Yesterday I noticed that about a 5 inch in diameter very faint greenish spot has formed near the bottom center of my screen. Its not ON the screen but in the display, like the light isnt lighting up correctly or something. Also the right side of the display seems dimmed slightly. Has this happened with anyone else? I am hoping this will be covered under warranty?

I have checked all my settings and nothing has changed. I am kinda ticked off about this because I am on vacation for the next several days and planned on logging some hours watching DVD's etc... its not TOO bad where its TOO distracting, but annoying especially now that I realize its there and I catch myself staring at it. If anyone is interested in seeing pics of this let me know and I will post.

J

There was a request to post pics for this. One is an all white screen from AVIA home theatre. I didnt use a flash and as you can see the screen should be all white and there is a greenish or dark tint at the bottom and the whole right side of the screen.

The other pic is of a scene in Episode 2 that you can see the right side and bottom green tint. By the way this happens on all the inputs so its not just the Digital In. Anyone have similar experience or know what the cause of this is?

Thanks,

J

im sold anybody played the 360 on one of this

im sold anybody played the 360 on one of this


wondering this myself...

I watched War of the Worlds last night on my 61inch z786 and the sound durring the first 20 minutes blew me away. 2000 watts just from the fronts and center. :D
two thumbs up for war of the worlds, i did not see it in theaters, hell i dont go to theaters anymore, great movie on my jvc

im sold anybody played the 360 on one of this

After hours in line earlier in the week, my 360 won't be running until 12/25, but I'll be happy to give impressions at that time.

Would love to hear some feedback on this.

Hey, this is my first post, but I've been out here a while reading. I bought the 52G about 3 months ago and so far I've only had one problem. I have my Dish 811 hooked up via component and dvi to hdmi. For some reason, my digital input (HDMI) quit working. Whenever I select that input now, I just get a black screen. Do I need a software upgrade?

Hey, this is my first post, but I've been out here a while reading. I bought the 52G about 3 months ago and so far I've only had one problem. I have my Dish 811 hooked up via component and dvi to hdmi. For some reason, my digital input (HDMI) quit working. Whenever I select that input now, I just get a black screen. Do I need a software upgrade?


The dish811 isn't supposed to output both dvi and component at the same time. I would power down the dish811 and choose which output you like better, unplug the one you won't use keep the other plugged in.

I tried that. Still doesn't work. And at one time, they did work at the sametime.

Another newbie here. I have an 52" g786 coming next week. I am new to HD and RPTV, but I have been lurking and absorbing all the info I can from this amazing forum.

I need to get a decent progressive scan DVD player but am limited to $200 or under for the price. I recalll in several posts there being a problem with the panny s97 and the Oppo due to the Faroudja chip set. I would like to know which DVD players are compatible with the JVC and what results other have had. I have searched the thread and found this question posted a few times but I was unable to find any responses. Thanks.

Another newbie here. I have an 52" g786 coming next week. I am new to HD and RPTV, but I have been lurking and absorbing all the info I can from this amazing forum.

I need to get a decent progressive scan DVD player but am limited to $200 or under for the price. I recalll in several posts there being a problem with the panny s97 and the Oppo due to the Faroudja chip set. I would like to know which DVD players are compatible with the JVC and what results other have had. I have searched the thread and found this question posted a few times but I was unable to find any responses. Thanks.


I have the sony dvp-ns70 and the picture is beautiful. Just make sure you feed it 480P or you will get the screen shift issue anything above that. Also 480P looks better anyhow as the jvc sets have a very good scaler inside. I am thinking of hooking my dvp-ns975 back up to the set and just sending it 480i as I hear that even looks better on the jvc. The 975 sends a 480i signal through the hdmi port. Not many players will do that.

I have the sony dvp-ns70 and the picture is beautiful. Just make sure you feed it 480P or you will get the screen shift issue anything above that. Also 480P looks better anyhow as the jvc sets have a very good scaler inside. I am thinking of hooking my dvp-ns975 back up to the set and just sending it 480i as I hear that even looks better on the jvc. The 975 sends a 480i signal through the hdmi port. Not many players will do that.

Thanks for the info Chipvideo.

I have a 61" JVC Z575 and an Oppo. There is the occasional macroblocking, but I have noticed it most on the menu screens of DVE. It has been rare on actual program material. I have been very pleased with the Oppo, not to mention its $200 price tag.

Another newbie here. I have an 52" g786 coming next week. I am new to HD and RPTV, but I have been lurking and absorbing all the info I can from this amazing forum.

I need to get a decent progressive scan DVD player but am limited to $200 or under for the price. I recalll in several posts there being a problem with the panny s97 and the Oppo due to the Faroudja chip set. I would like to know which DVD players are compatible with the JVC and what results other have had. I have searched the thread and found this question posted a few times but I was unable to find any responses. Thanks.

I have the Samsung HD850, works great plus its under $150. No Macroblocking and great upconverting. I am extremely satisfied.

i use a pioneer dv-106s cost me 80 bucks but is pushing 2 years old and i get an excellent image on my jvc, you cant tell the difference between 480i or 480p.

There was a request to post pics for this. One is an all white screen from AVIA home theatre. I didnt use a flash and as you can see the screen should be all white and there is a greenish or dark tint at the bottom and the whole right side of the screen.

The other pic is of a scene in Episode 2 that you can see the right side and bottom green tint. By the way this happens on all the inputs so its not just the Digital In. Anyone have similar experience or know what the cause of this is?

Thanks,

J


See above post for pics.. JVC Authorized techs just picked up my TV today. Just wondering if anyone knows how long I can expect repairs to replace the engine to take?

Thanks!

J

See above post for pics.. JVC Authorized techs just picked up my TV today. Just wondering if anyone knows how long I can expect repairs to replace the engine to take?

Thanks!

J

There is NO reason the light engine replacement could NOT have been in your HOME.
Now they have the set.... Besides the fact they can hold it "hostage"....each time it's moved there is a chance for something to get broken, bounced around , etc.

Another aspect, since you can't see what was "done"... the tech may skip a step (or two). There is a certain procedure to replace the light engine... and most techs bypass step #2 or #3 I think in the service manual.

After that's done, your supposed to do a manual focus (VERY EASY to do BTW)... and alot of tech's skip that step also.


I will NEVER let them (A repair shop) "take" one of my sets again. Last time I did it took me 9 months to get a working set , read some of the details here, allot of details left out... by the time everything was said and done I probably had 100 +hours plus (or more!!!) "invested": http://forum.ecoustics.com/cgi-bin/bbs/show.pl?tpc=2&post=474384#POST474384

See above post for pics.. JVC Authorized techs just picked up my TV today. Just wondering if anyone knows how long I can expect repairs to replace the engine to take?

Thanks!

J

RE: Just wondering if anyone knows how long I can expect repairs to replace the engine to take?


Terminaldawn,

FYI: The light engine takes LESS than an hour to swap out.... and that's if you're on the slow side. :)