ok this is going to sound really dumb but i need to know how to connect my NON-HD dish network reciever to the samsung 46" dlp.

I tried both coax connections in the back and still wasnt able to get it to work.

my dish usually plays through channel 60 on my old crt tv and I just use the reciever remote to change channels.

That C means that it is the special Costco version. All specs are the same, except you get two pounds of bacon with the TV purchase. :D Just kidding about the bacon. :) Actually, I think that the C may refer to a TV stand bundle at Costco. There is a thread on an earlier Costco model. But, information pretty much does not exist on the C models. You could call Costco or Samsung.

Ah - great, thanks!

It's a pretty compelling deal, so I think I'll call today. :)

RJ,
Did the tech use a test pattern to adjust the Index Delay?

Honestly, aside from the pattern that displays on the screen where the index delay is adjusted, I don't know. The guy was jumping back and forth in the test patterns and menus so fast that by the time I had caught up with how he got to a given test pattern, he was already moving to the next one.
I do recall him looking at several solid color test patterns, but don't know what things he was looking for on each pattern.
Sorry

ok this is going to sound really dumb but i need to know how to connect my NON-HD dish network receiver to the samsung 46" dlp.

I tried both coax connections in the back and still wasn't able to get it to work.

my dish usually plays through channel 60 on my old crt tv and I just use the receiver remote to change channels.

Look for a green, red, and blue (Y, Pr, Pb) video output on the back of your Dish receiver. If it doesn't have this type of triple video component connection you want to call Dish and ask for a replacement receiver that does.

A coax connection is the worst possible connection method and should be avoided with a big screen. A single yellow video should also be avoided.
The round S-Video connection would get you by for now if the receiver has it.

A coax connection is the worst possible connection method and should be avoided with a big screen. A single yellow video should also be avoided.
The round S-Video connection would get you by for now if the receiver has it.

So when I get my HD Tuner from my local cable provider how can I hook it up without coaxial? I'm assuming I will have to run the coax from the wall outlet to the tuner, like I do with my current digital box but are you saying use something other than coax from the HD tuner to my TV?

coax from the wall to your cable box. from your box to tv, use the best connection possible. mine has options for firewire, component or dvi. i haven't used dvi, but firewire looks better than component so i use that.

Look for a green, red, and blue (Y, Pr, Pb) video output on the back of your Dish receiver. If it doesn't have this type of triple video component connection you want to call Dish and ask for a replacement receiver that does.

A coax connection is the worst possible connection method and should be avoided with a big screen. A single yellow video should also be avoided.
The round S-Video connection would get you by for now if the receiver has it.

Thanks for your help. Let me be a bit more specific. I have a dish 322 dual reciever. TV1 is upstairs in the bedroom and the reciever is physically in that tv's entertainment center.

TV2 is the samsung and it is in the living room. The reciever only has a coax connection to both tvs. The installer ran a "double" coax from the dishes to the reciever and then from the reciever down to the tv downstairs.

The only way I am able to get this to work is if I connect to the "in" and "out" coax connections on the back of my dvd player. If I connect the coax directly to the tv I get nothing.

Also the channel has to stay on channel 60 (thats the way it was installed) and then I use the dish reciever remote to control the channels.

So after knowing all this, does anyone have any other suggestions? (ps. I will be getting verizons fiber optic service as soon as it is in my area, I dont want to spend extra money to upgrade my dish equipment and have to sign a long contract)

ok nevermind. I see that on the back of the reciever they have a svideo connection and a composite connection but its only good for TV1 and not TV2.

I think ill just survive on this "dvd coax" connection until i get the verizon hookup.


Thanks

Do both component inputs support 720p?

ok nevermind. I see that on the back of the reciever they have a svideo connection and a composite connection but its only good for TV1 and not TV2.

I think ill just survive on this "dvd coax" connection until i get the verizon hookup.


Thanks

You have some trashy absurd sat receiver with the worst install situation I've ever heard of. It's archaic to say the least. It's not compatible with you new HD set in any way, shape or form. They are taking a pure digital signal and converting it to analog, modulating it to channel 60, and splitting it for coaxial distribution. What a joke! Would you run a Ferrari with diesel fuel?

You should check the other sat company for free individual late model receivers and a comparable monthly rate. They want your business and will work with you to get it. That way you can take advantage of separate sat receivers with full digital signal to each and component (Y, Pr, Pb) connections. They may offer free HD for 6 months along with a receiver that has a digital HDMI connection and integrates your off-air digital networks with the sat programming. It's worth investigating. You paid for the set. It deserves a signal that makes it perform as it was intended. Verizon will intigrate your DTV service in their package. No need to wait.

Do both component inputs support 720p?

Absolutely! They support all formats.

You have some trashy absurd sat receiver with the worst install situation I've ever heard of. It's archaic to say the least. It's not compatible with you new HD set in any way, shape or form. They are taking a pure digital signal and converting it to analog, modulating it to channel 60, and splitting it for coaxial distribution. What a joke! Would you run a Ferrari with diesel fuel?

You should check the other sat company for free individual late model receivers and a comparable monthly rate. They want your business and will work with you to get it. That way you can take advantage of separate sat receivers with full digital signal to each and component (Y, Pr, Pb) connections. They may offer free HD for 6 months along with a receiver that has a digital HDMI connection and integrates your off-air digital networks with the sat programming. It's worth investigating. You paid for the set. It deserves a signal that makes it perform as it was intended.

If you have the DISH system, check into the JVC HD reciever - I was going to get that until I found out Time Warner would give me a 50% off for 18 months for switching from Directv... WOOHOO!

The JVC HD unit is great - and has component output, 5.1 Dolby digital and support for 2 televisions and a RF remote for the 2nd room. It is also available with a DVR model too. They will ask you to pay a 1 time upgrade fee of like $200 to get this unit (retail over $1000) but the quality of the display will be superior to this 'rig' you've got now. JVC HD DVR (http://www.jvc.com/product.jsp?modelId=MODL027191&pathId=15&page=2)

I agree with Rez... "Worst Install Ever Award Nominee"

So when I get my HD Tuner from my local cable provider how can I hook it up without coaxial? I'm assuming I will have to run the coax from the wall outlet to the tuner, like I do with my current digital box but are you saying use something other than coax from the HD tuner to my TV?

You bet! Coax is the worst connection. It means the signal has already been combined and modulated. Hopefully, they will provide a digital HDMI connection or at least a component (Y, Pr, Pb) connection. Don't settle for less! I don't like cable signal of any type. If it were all digital it would be worth having, but very few providers are offering true digital cable signal, even though they make claims of such.

If you really want to see the best possible picture hook up a standard antenna to the air input and do an auto search for your local digital networks. It's free HD and it looks better than any other input.

If you really want to see the best possible picture hook up a standard antenna to the air input and do an auto search for your local digital networks. It's free HD and it looks better than any other input.
yes, but wouldn't this be by coax?? I have an HLR4667w, and am attempting to do just this, but I'm not getting any signal. I'm not sure, but there is an old fashioned ribbon that leads from the antenna itself, and I think something is getting lost in the conversion to coax. Anyone have any thoughts??
as an aside:
Is it true that any old style antenna has the capability to pick up an HD signal? What about the digital sound??

[QUOTE=
as an aside:
Is it true that any old style antenna has the capability to pick up an HD signal? What about the digital sound??[/QUOTE]

Mostly yes. HD signal is transmitted in the same way with regular UHF and VHF signal in terms of frequency and bandwidth. The major difference is that digital signal is encoded into bursts of data which need to be decoded by digital tuners. On the antenna end, there should be no special treatment required to receive digital signal.

yes, but wouldn't this be by coax?? I have an HLR4667w, and am attempting to do just this, but I'm not getting any signal. I'm not sure, but there is an old fashioned ribbon that leads from the antenna itself, and I think something is getting lost in the conversion to coax. Anyone have any thoughts??
as an aside:
Is it true that any old style antenna has the capability to pick up an HD signal? What about the digital sound??

Don't confuse coax from a cable or sat box that carries a composite modulated analog signal with coax that carries true digital HD signal.

If you hook up an old style VHF/UHF antenna to your air input it will pull in your local digital channels. To see what's available in your area go to www.antennaweb.org and click on "Choose an Antenna" then enter just your zip code. You can then select to filter for just the digital off-air channels. It will show you the compass direction and distance of each broadcast station. It will also recommend the size antenna you should be using. I have a cheap little Radio Shack model in my attic and I get all the digital networks from 35 miles away.

When auto tuning channels your set will display the old vhf analog ABC network and a new digital ABC channel with a .1 or -1 designation. Same for NBC, CBS, FOX, etc. These .1 or -1 channels are being tuned by your internal ATSC tuner and they look fabulous. Daytime programming is mostly 4:3 format with black bars on the sides, but many sports specials and prime-time shows at night are full 16:9 and quite eye popping. It's why we buy an HD set and it's totally free.

I live in rural Michigan, and all the stations are 40-60 miles away... will I receive a strong enough signal? Is my standard antenna enough? It is not ancient/and it has a rotator, so I should be able to pull stations? The Sammy has a signal strength indicator. Is it helpful?
Anyone have any thoughts on converting from ribbon 300 ohm to the 75 ohm coax? (I was originally trying to use it to bring in Detriot radio stations, which has previously worked well for me, over the FM cheappie ribbon. This time I have lost something in the conversion.)
Right now I have a small converter with screws and it has a coax output which I have a short adapter plugged in to, but I'm getting no signal.

I live in rural Michigan, and all the stations are 40-60 miles away... will I receive a strong enough signal? Is my standard antenna enough? It is not ancient/and it has a rotator, so I should be able to pull stations? The Sammy has a signal strength indicator. Is it helpful?
Anyone have any thoughts on converting from ribbon 300 ohm to the 75 ohm coax? (I was originally trying to use it to bring in Detriot radio stations, which has previously worked well for me, over the FM cheappie ribbon. This time I have lost something in the conversion.)
Right now I have a small converter with screws and it has a coax output which I have a short adapter plugged in to, but I'm getting no signal.

In your case, I would suggest you use an outdoor antenna with preamp.

You bet! Coax is the worst connection. It means the signal has already been combined and modulated. Hopefully, they will provide a digital HDMI connection or at least a component (Y, Pr, Pb) connection. Don't settle for less! I don't like cable signal of any type. If it were all digital it would be worth having, but very few providers are offering true digital cable signal, even though they make claims of such.

If you really want to see the best possible picture hook up a standard antenna to the air input and do an auto search for your local digital networks. It's free HD and it looks better than any other input.

Indeed, the over the air HD is the cleanest signal you can get and it looks amazing. I have Time Warner Digital Cable and the HD local stations through them look good, but not nearly as clean as the over the air (which I use a pair of 20 year old rabbit ears from my first tv in college to pull in).

Simply tuning to the station that you know as your local station will not automatically give you the HD version either. If I tuned to local channel 22 for instance, I'm not getting ABC-HD feed, I'm getting the standard SD version. I had to let the television auto-tune and pick up the channels then the HD feed was picked up and I have to channel up/down to get to them. Once the auto-tune is finished, then you can go into the menu and remove the SD duplicates and be left with only the HD feed.

Good luck - it's well worth it.

*Gripe* - Why can't we use the PIP to show the HDMI input in a window while watching over-the-air??? I often am playing xbox via the VGA input and want to pop up the PIP and see what is happening on the cable box, but that option isn't available. They need to fix this in future models. PIP is useless for HDMI folks? Wow- that makes sense... sell a HD television that only has feature support for non-digital inputs. GRRRRRRRRRRRR :mad:

You have some trashy absurd sat receiver with the worst install situation I've ever heard of. It's archaic to say the least. It's not compatible with you new HD set in any way, shape or form. They are taking a pure digital signal and converting it to analog, modulating it to channel 60, and splitting it for coaxial distribution. What a joke! Would you run a Ferrari with diesel fuel?

You should check the other sat company for free individual late model receivers and a comparable monthly rate. They want your business and will work with you to get it. That way you can take advantage of separate sat receivers with full digital signal to each and component (Y, Pr, Pb) connections. They may offer free HD for 6 months along with a receiver that has a digital HDMI connection and integrates your off-air digital networks with the sat programming. It's worth investigating. You paid for the set. It deserves a signal that makes it perform as it was intended. Verizon will intigrate your DTV service in their package. No need to wait.

I figured that.

Well thats why I will be dropping dish altogether when verizon installs fiberoptic in my neighborhood. They have already wired up half of howard county and I should be soon (im only a few miles from the verizon CO). And the tv service has rolled out full steam ahead (howard county is the first county in Maryland to give Verizon the full ok to move ahead)

The verizon hd boxes will have hdmi connections i believe.

That C means that it is the special Costco version. All specs are the same, except you get two pounds of bacon with the TV purchase. :D Just kidding about the bacon. :) Actually, I think that the C may refer to a TV stand bundle at Costco. There is a thread on an earlier Costco model. But, information pretty much does not exist on the C models. You could call Costco or Samsung.Be carefull. BJ's sells one with a stand that ends with "B". It costs much more than the one at Amazon and it doesn't have Firewire and a few other features.

I figured that.

Well thats why I will be dropping dish altogether when verizon installs fiberoptic in my neighborhood. They have already wired up half of howard county and I should be soon (im only a few miles from the verizon CO). And the tv service has rolled out full steam ahead (howard county is the first county in Maryland to give Verizon the full ok to move ahead)

The verizon hd boxes will have hdmi connections i believe.

Verizon and Direct TV are partnering. You don't have to wait. As I stated before, they will integrate your existing DTV service in with their telephony offering when available. You certainly could call DTV and see what they will offer up ahead of time. Otherwise, you may be waiting much longer than you think.

Verizon and Direct TV are partnering. You don't have to wait. As I stated before, they will integrate your existing DTV service in with their telephony offering when available. You certainly could call DTV and see what they will offer up ahead of time. Otherwise, you may be waiting much longer than you think.

sounds good but my situation is a little more complicated.

we get international channels from dish that are only provided by dish. we will keep those even after the verizon fios.

and i spoke to verizon today, it shouldnt be more than a few months at the latest before i get fios. I have another property about 3 miles away from my current home and it already has fios internet and tv.

I went to my local cable provider to exchange my digital box for a HD box. Went to CC and purchased a HDMI/DVI cable ($99) came home hooked it up and was not impressed at all. First, there was no sound until I unhooked my optical from my DVD player and receiver. Can't I have sound via the TV speakers without going thru my receiver? Second, I no longer have the full screen (I guess that would be the 16:9) like I did with digital. I actually like viewing the news and sports in the full screen via the digital cable box. Third, the picture quality from the HD box is not as good as the digital cable was IMO. So is there anything that I did or haven't done? Very disappointed when I spent the time and money to get HD and not getting the quality I was expecting. Since CC only had the HDMI on one end and DVI on the other end cable would that make a difference? When I try to tune to a HDNet, ESPNHD, etc. it says "this channel will be available shortly" which shortly never comes around. Any thoughts?

Initial impressions:

Arrived today from TVA.

The HL-R5667 (56") with the DLP58X stand replaced a 42" Toshiba HD RPTV (Standard 3 gun). Viewing distance 15'

Wow.

I was prepared for SD via either satellite (DirecTV or OTA) to look absolutely awful. It doesn't. If anything it is actually better than the Tosh looked. Highly compressed satellite signals show significant macroblocking in the background (large areas of sublte shading differences). I should mention that I saw similar artifacts on my Tosh, but not as pronounced (14" bigger screen, what might one expect). Surprisingly it isn't terrible unless you spend a lot of time looking for it, or the scene is "just right" to demonstrate it. Enough on SD...I'm more than happy that it doesn't look terrible...it is quite watchable.

HD OTA is exquisite....local IPTV (Public TV) had NOVA tonight and it was just stunning.

HD via D* is just dandy.

Onkyo Receiver, Satellite digital audio feeding it, DVI > HDMI cable to the 5667W.

LipSync is totally a function of source material. Some channels have it, some don't. I don't see ANY on the OTA, only via Satellite....and for most channels where it is detectable, it is barely noticable. One channel was quite bad, but it was the only channel like it. (via satellite).

Bowing in pillar mode is almost imperceptible. At times I have to convince myself that it is there. I left the foam spacers at the two edges of the TV to prevent screen sag. Center channel Paradigm speaker fits the TV stand perfectly (under the TV)

No rainbows.

Standard mode, Contrast 70, Brightness 39, Sharpness 0. Cool1 color temp (default). Color level default (50).

Setup was easy. Lots of settings to play with over time, but my initial impressions are highly favorable.

More later, as I play around.

I went to my local cable provider to exchange my digital box for a HD box. Went to CC and purchased a HDMI/DVI cable ($99) came home hooked it up and was not impressed at all. First, there was no sound until I unhooked my optical from my DVD player and receiver. Can't I have sound via the TV speakers without going thru my receiver? Second, I no longer have the full screen (I guess that would be the 16:9) like I did with digital. I actually like viewing the news and sports in the full screen via the digital cable box. Third, the picture quality from the HD box is not as good as the digital cable was IMO. So is there anything that I did or haven't done? Very disappointed when I spent the time and money to get HD and not getting the quality I was expecting. Since CC only had the HDMI on one end and DVI on the other end cable would that make a difference? When I try to tune to a HDNet, ESPNHD, etc. it says "this channel will be available shortly" which shortly never comes around. Any thoughts?
Return the HDMI-DVI cable, if you can. monoprice.com has extremely reasonable prices on cables (I purchased my HDMI cable and DVI-HDMI adapter from them). Your Cable HD STB probably only has a DVI output, not an HDMI output, hence the need for a HDMI-DVI cable. DVI (Digital VISUAL Interface) does not carry audio. If you stay with the HDMI-DVI connection, you can connect your STB directly to the TV via RCA cables - Audio Out on STB to DVI Audio In on the TV.

I'm pretty sure it is the fact that you're connected via the HDMI input that won't allow you to stretch the picture to full screen. If you're really not satisfied with the HDMI-DVI cable, connect the HD box with Component cables and see if you notice any difference in the PQ (the PQ should actually get worse, but some say they notice no difference between the two types of connections). You should be able to stretch the picture to 16:9 with a Component connection. If I remember correctly, I was able to stretch the picture when I was using Component cables.

Bowing in pillar mode is almost imperceptible. At times I have to convince myself that it is there. I left the foam spacers at the two edges of the TV to prevent screen sag

please explain??

Return the HDMI-DVI cable, if you can. monoprice.com has extremely reasonable prices on cables (I purchased my HDMI cable and DVI-HDMI adapter from them). Your Cable HD STB probably only has a DVI output, not an HDMI output, hence the need for a HDMI-DVI cable. DVI (Digital VISUAL Interface) does not carry audio. If you stay with the HDMI-DVI connection, you can connect your STB directly to the TV via RCA cables - Audio Out on STB to DVI Audio In on the TV.

I'm pretty sure it is the fact that you're connected via the HDMI input that won't allow you to stretch the picture to full screen. If you're really not satisfied with the HDMI-DVI cable, connect the HD box with Component cables and see if you notice any difference in the PQ (the PQ should actually get worse, but some say they notice no difference between the two types of connections). You should be able to stretch the picture to 16:9 with a Component connection. If I remember correctly, I was able to stretch the picture when I was using Component cables.

I was able to get the audio back, hooked up the RCA cables as you recommended, however I still can't get the screen stretched. I tried both component and HDMI-DVI and no luck in getting the 16:9. My HD box has a HDMI port why doesn't my Samsung?

please explain??

When viewing in 4:3, you get black bars on the sides to take up the extra 16:9 screen area (wide). Some people have complained about irritating bowing or pin cushioning of the vertical black bars looking like this ( ) or ( ). On my set their is only a very slight (almost imperceptible) pin cushioning in this mode.

please explain??

The screen is floating and since it is so big, there is a tendency for it to "sag". As shipped it has two silver styrofoam spacers at edges to support the screen. Since they are cosmetically acceptable and they provide support for the floating screen, I just left them in position.

hasan,
I might be wrong about this, but I believe the sagging of the screen is only associated with the initial design of the matching stand. The front support of the TV was only at the ends, leaving the middle completely unsupported. Due to several complaints, the stand manufacturer created a fix for this issue and was available to those who requested it. I've had my HLR for a little over five months and do not have it on the matching - I have experienced no perceptible sagging. Has anyone else experienced sagging when not using the matching stand?

I was able to get the audio back, hooked up the RCA cables as you recommended, however I still can't get the screen stretched. I tried both component and HDMI-DVI and no luck in getting the 16:9. My HD box has a HDMI port why doesn't my Samsung?
I believe you have it backwards. If you do in fact have an HL-RXX67W series TV, you have an HDMI input. If you are using a HDMI-DVI cable, the DVI end of the cable is hooked up to the STB.

In case you don't know what the connectors look like, here are some links:
HDMI Connector - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:High_Definition_Multimedia_Interface_Plug.jpg
DVI Connector - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:DVI_Connector.jpg

hasan,
I might be wrong about this, but I believe the sagging of the screen is only associated with the initial design of the matching stand. The front support of the TV was only at the ends, leaving the middle completely unsupported. Due to several complaints, the stand manufacturer created a fix for this issue and was available to those who requested it. I've had my HLR for a little over five months and do not have it on the matching - I have experienced no perceptible sagging. Has anyone else experienced sagging when not using the matching stand?
I have the 5067, no matching stand, took the spacers out. I figure, if it sags, that is due to faulty design, and I will be contacting Samsung. I'm not leaving those stupid foam spacers in there... What is the point of the cool design of the TV, if you have to leave them in? Another issue of principle with me.

hasan,
I might be wrong about this, but I believe the sagging of the screen is only associated with the initial design of the matching stand.



I'm pretty sure it is the fact that you're connected via the HDMI input that won't allow you to stretch the picture to full screen.

Where are you getting this?

I am using a non-samsung stand (Bush series) and my screen is sagging very slightly (1/8th-1/10th of an inch) and I am looking to remedy this with a wood dow this weekend (painted silver of course to match).

I am using HDMI connections to my sammy from the HD cablebox and 16:9 format is supported for all stations and connections. I use the stretch option in the cablebox setup menu for 4:3 programs and it naturally displays all HD channels in 16:9 already.

I believe you have it backwards. If you do in fact have an HL-RXX67W series TV, you have an HDMI input. If you are using a HDMI-DVI cable, the DVI end of the cable is hooked up to the STB.
Yes, your are correct I had it backwards. My HD box doesn't have the HDMI only a DVI. So what is the culprit of my losing the 16:9 option. I can't change in the menu for my TV nor HD box. Also what are the pro & cons of HDMI/DVI versus Component?

I am using HDMI connections to my sammy from the HD cablebox and 16:9 format is supported for all stations and connections. I use the stretch option in the cablebox setup menu for 4:3 programs and it naturally displays all HD channels in 16:9 already.

That's what I'm trying to accomplish. My previous set up I had digital and when I got my Sammy I was able to get 16:9 in digital via coax. Now that I have exchanged the Digital box for a HD box using a HDMI/DVI cable to connect I don't get the 16:9 format

I have the 4667, with the matching stand... will I experience this sag??
Or is it too short??
Who do I contact for this fix?? any links??

Where are you getting this?

I am using a non-samsung stand (Bush series) and my screen is sagging very slightly (1/8th-1/10th of an inch) and I am looking to remedy this with a wood dow this weekend (painted silver of course to match).
That is why I said "I might be wrong about this" and then closed that post asking if anyone has experienced sagging when not using the matching stand.

I am using HDMI connections to my sammy from the HD cablebox and 16:9 format is supported for all stations and connections. I use the stretch option in the cablebox setup menu for 4:3 programs and it naturally displays all HD channels in 16:9 already.
Perhaps I should have asked ricdugan for more information. I assumed (we all know what happens when one assumes) that he was talking about trying to stretch SD signals to full screen. I checked this on my TV, connected to my HD STB via HDMI-DVI, when I replied to his post. For picture size options in the user menu, the only selectable choices are 16:9 and 4:3. But, even in 16:9, I still get black bars on the sides with SD. If I choose 4:3, it reduces the picture size even more. I have not tried going into the STB menu to see if it will allow me to stretch SD signals to full screen. When I posted earlier this morning, I was going to mention that as a possible fix, but I couldn't remember exactly what to check and change, off of the top of my head. All I could remember is how to access the STB setup menu (turn the STB off and press Menu on the remote, right? at least I think that's how it is for my Comcast STB).

hasan,
I might be wrong about this, but I believe the sagging of the screen is only associated with the initial design of the matching stand. The front support of the TV was only at the ends, leaving the middle completely unsupported. Due to several complaints, the stand manufacturer created a fix for this issue and was available to those who requested it. I've had my HLR for a little over five months and do not have it on the matching - I have experienced no perceptible sagging. Has anyone else experienced sagging when not using the matching stand?

I'm on a granite slab. The screen doesn't sag. Not even slightly.
It's not necessary to support the screen unless you're transporting it.
The sagging issue was associated with a bad matching stand design.

That's what I'm trying to accomplish. My previous set up I had digital and when I got my Sammy I was able to get 16:9 in digital via coax. Now that I have exchanged the Digital box for a HD box using a HDMI/DVI cable to connect I don't get the 16:9 format

The menu screen in the cable box has an option to "pass through" any resolution or format and allow the set to select and/or scale. A cable has no ability to restrict formats.

That is why I said "I might be wrong about this" and then closed that post asking if anyone has experienced sagging when not using the matching stand.


Perhaps I should have asked ricdugan for more information. I assumed (we all know what happens when one assumes) that he was talking about trying to stretch SD signals to full screen. I checked this on my TV, connected to my HD STB via HDMI-DVI, when I replied to his post. For picture size options in the user menu, the only selectable choices are 16:9 and 4:3. But, even in 16:9, I still get black bars on the sides with SD. If I choose 4:3, it reduces the picture size even more. I have not tried going into the STB menu to see if it will allow me to stretch SD signals to full screen. When I posted earlier this morning, I was going to mention that as a possible fix, but I couldn't remember exactly what to check and change, off of the top of my head. All I could remember is how to access the STB setup menu (turn the STB off and press Menu on the remote, right? at least I think that's how it is for my Comcast STB).

I'm not sure this is the condition you are describing, but digital networks broadcasting in 4:3 cannot be stretched. Only true analog standard definition channels from cable or sat can be sized by our xx67 model. If you are tuned to a digital network channel they have the option to force the format to 4:3 or 16:9 at their discretion. If they are sending a digital 4:3 format, any attempts to size results in exactly what you describe.

OK folks, I think this has been asked a number of times and I've yet to find an answer:

Geometry adjustments (besides Horizontal and Vertical settings): Where are they in the Service Menu, and what do they adjust? 4:3 is way off on the bottom to the left on my TV. I really need to adjust it.

OK folks, I think this has been asked a number of times and I've yet to find an answer:

Geometry adjustments (besides Horizontal and Vertical settings): Where are they in the Service Menu, and what do they adjust? 4:3 is way off on the bottom to the left on my TV. I really need to adjust it.

Sorry...there are no geometry adjustments (besides Horizontal and Vertical settings). What do you mean by "4:3 is way off on the bottom to the left"?

I'm glad I did a search for this because I'm having the same problems with whites. The most noticeable it's been has been while watching hockey. Speckling is a good way to describe it...I also would describe it as "dirty". I'll try lowering the contrast and see if that makes a difference. Thanks for the info.

You will get better results if you can adjust the gray scale using an Avia type disk and or feel comfortable in the service menu.

Sorry...there are no geometry adjustments (besides Horizontal and Vertical settings). What do you mean by "4:3 is way off on the bottom to the left"?It's misaligned. The picture is too wide (off the screen) on the bottom left side. It's clearly visible.

I'll probably just live with it untill I save $400 for the ISF guy to come.:(

Just an owner update (56").

I received the TV from TigerDirect on 4/11/06 and yesterday I had a technician visit and they replaced the entire light engine out. The reason being that I was missing about 3~4 inches of watchable TV area on top of the screen. When I turned on the TV Guide function, I was missing the entire menu options on top of the screen as well as not being able to see the entire "TV Guide" logo on the upper left corner - I only saw "Guide".

I called Samsung, and after 15 minutes of speaking with a l;evel 1 tech and then a level 2 tech, they sent a message to a local Samsung tech from a AV store. They came out within 2 days and voile I am good to go.

I just measured the 4:3 picture on my 5667W, and the bottom left bows .5mm wider than the top. It's driving me nuts! Is this acceptable?(bottom right isn't much better) Do I have the right to call back the Samsung Tech a third time?

After fooling around with AVIA and wide PC mode I can see the geometry on my set is so bad it's laughable. I can't honestly believe other people's sets are this bad or this is something that needs to be (or even can be) fixed by an ISF calibrator.

The Samsung tech who was here before pretty much said "That's the way it is". But the last assembly I had (before it broke) wasn't nearly off by this much. She pushed the back of the set with her knuckle, yadda yadda, etc.

I spent nearly $2k for this?

Hey guys! Just got back from BB...I've been researching the Song 50A10 for a few weeks now, but after going to BB today I fell in love with Samsungs HLR5067W. I'm going to look through the longggg thread to see what you guys have been up to, but if someone can list some cons of this set that'd rock!

Hey guys! Just got back from BB...I've been researching the Song 50A10 for a few weeks now, but after going to BB today I fell in love with Samsungs HLR5067W. I'm going to look through the longggg thread to see what you guys have been up to, but if someone can list some cons of this set that'd rock!

Some people see rainbow effect on DLP's, where you won't have that on the sony. People say that the samsung has video game lag, but there have been posts where people said the xbox 360 had no lag, so it might just be the older game consoles that send out a picture at 480i/p.

Hey guys! Just got back from BB...I've been researching the Song 50A10 for a few weeks now, but after going to BB today I fell in love with Samsungs HLR5067W. I'm going to look through the longggg thread to see what you guys have been up to, but if someone can list some cons of this set that'd rock!
I do not recommend this TV. I have the 5067 and most DVDs look like crap. Also, people complain of pincushioning when using 4:3 mode. I have not used this mode enough to notice -- I think I have the issue, but have not taken steps to confirm that it's not just my eyes playing tricks on me. The video lag and Xbox/PS2 response issues are also sources of great annoyance for me. Investing extra $$ to get the TV calibrated $500 or more, in my case, and to add some sort of audio delay device (to delay the audio enough to match the lagging video) are things that don't sit right with me -- I feel this TV is flawed technology that warrants a recall. I wish I had not chosen this model.

Many others experience these same issues, yet are OK with either dealing with them or paying for Band-Aids that will conceal/lessen them... I only consider these "fixes" because I bought the TV and am stuck with it now.

If the only thing you use the TV for will be a new gaming system (Xbox 360, for example), that is meant for 720p+, true HD television content, and HD DVDs (which don't yet exist), then you will most likely have very few complaints... If you have lots of standard DVDs that you plan to watch, or legacy gaming systems, then I think you will have real complaints.

Well this being my first post, I am going to ask a few simple questions and hope someone can help me :)

I purchased the HL-R5067W from Best Buy yesterday open box display that has been there since last july for 1499$ I haven't noticed any problems yet with the TV. My concerns are that since this was on display for 9 months, that it might end up dying faster.
I have done my research on this forum for some time and I am happy to own one. My questions are as follows

1. I have seen this TV on some websites like Electronic Expo and Buydig for under 1500 shipped. The TVs were both new. Am I better off returning it to BB and buying it online. I am really cautious about buying online. I have also read tons of reviews on both of the above mentioned sites and all were good. As a plus E/E is a authorized site. I called and verified with Samsung myself. Opinions on that?

2. The television warranty through B/B ran me 400$ I found a legitimate site online who sell the warranty with bulb protection for 249$ I definitely wan't to buy a warranty. Any thoughts on that?

Thank you everyone
Brad E

Well this being my first post, I am going to ask a few simple questions and hope someone can help me :)

I purchased the HL-R5067W from Best Buy yesterday open box display that has been there since last july for 1499$ I haven't noticed any problems yet with the TV. My concerns are that since this was on display for 9 months, that it might end up dying faster.
I have done my research on this forum for some time and I am happy to own one. My questions are as follows

1. I have seen this TV on some websites like Electronic Expo and Buydig for under 1500 shipped. The TVs were both new. Am I better off returning it to BB and buying it online. I am really cautious about buying online. I have also read tons of reviews on both of the above mentioned sites and all were good. As a plus E/E is a authorized site. I called and verified with Samsung myself. Opinions on that?

2. The television warranty through B/B ran me 400$ I found a legitimate site online who sell the warranty with bulb protection for 249$ I definitely wan't to buy a warranty. Any thoughts on that?

Thank you everyone
Brad E
At the very least, I would go into the service menu and check the hours on the bulb (though that figure could have been reset in the past) -- it's probably crazy high, and its life for you will be a fraction of what it should be (though maybe it has been replaced once already). That is a fair price for the TV itself, but w/ 9mos use, probably 12 hours per day, that's at least 3000 hours of usage. Also, was it kept on the matching stand? Does it have any bowing issues? For me, in this case, it would not be worth the slight savings of buying one that has been used so heavily.

At the very least, I would go into the service menu and check the hours on the bulb (though that figure could have been reset in the past) -- it's probably crazy high, and its life for you will be a fraction of what it should be (though maybe it has been replaced once already). That is a fair price for the TV itself, but w/ 9mos use, probably 12 hours per day, that's at least 3000 hours of usage. Also, was it kept on the matching stand? Does it have any bowing issues? For me, in this case, it would not be worth the slight savings of buying one that has been used so heavily.
No noticeable bowing issues, although im not quite sure what you are referring to on that. I am not at home so I will have to check the bulb life later. Any opinions on buying online?

I do not recommend this TV. I have the 5067 and most DVDs look like crap. Also, people complain of pincushioning when using 4:3 mode. I have not used this mode enough to notice -- I think I have the issue, but have not taken steps to confirm that it's not just my eyes playing tricks on me. The video lag and Xbox/PS2 response issues are also sources of great annoyance for me. Investing extra $$ to get the TV calibrated $500 or more, in my case, and to add some sort of audio delay device (to delay the audio enough to match the lagging video) are things that don't sit right with me -- I feel this TV is flawed technology that warrants a recall. I wish I had not chosen this model.

Many others experience these same issues, yet are OK with either dealing with them or paying for Band-Aids that will conceal/lessen them... I only consider these "fixes" because I bought the TV and am stuck with it now.

If the only thing you use the TV for will be a new gaming system (Xbox 360, for example), that is meant for 720p+, true HD television content, and HD DVDs (which don't yet exist), then you will most likely have very few complaints... If you have lots of standard DVDs that you plan to watch, or legacy gaming systems, then I think you will have real complaints.

Let me try to provide some balance to the highly negative impressions that are in the post above.

My tests pretty much show that what you get with this TV is largely dependent on source quality, and that is no surprise to me whatsoever. Limited resolution in, blow it up, you're going to see some junk. Why would one expect anything any different?

I have made no changes to the service menu, and have set back Contrast (60), Brightness (50), Sharpness (0), Standard Picture Mode, Cool1 Color Temperature. HDMI connection for Satellite, Progressive for DVD player.

I demonstrated the TV last night for four hours to a group of 15 people. (HL-R5667W on a DLP-58X stand. Viewing distance: 15 feet. I used several source materials:

1. HDTV OTA internal TV Tuner;

IPTV Nature Show, CBS Network Show, ABC NBA Basketball: The quality was exceptional. No macroblocking, no reports of seeing rainbows. The NBA and IPTV stuff was stunning.

2. HDTV OTA DirecTV OTA tuner (HDMI interconnect)

Same material, same results (this compares the tuner in the TV to the tuner in the DirecTV sat box. I actually prefer the picture on the 5667W's internal tuner.

3. Progressive Scan DVD (JVC 480P)

Lethal Weapon 4 looked very good. Since I know things to look for, I didn't let anyone watching it know...I wanted to know what they thought, what their viewing experience was like. Not one person picked up on any macroblocking (there was a small amount in certain scenes, but if you weren't looking for it, you would miss it. Other DVD's could show quite a bit more). The comments were highly favorable, and even I, with a picky eye, could not complain. Very watchable, and I did not feel "cheated" or particularly compromised. The other people thought it was fantastic. I thought it was perfectly acceptable.

4. SD via DirecTV Satellite (NASCAR) local FOX

This is a highly compressed feed. It looked terrible. Fast motion was blurry (panning), lots of macroblocking. I considered it unwatchable.

5. SD via OTA (NASCAR)

Looked a lot better than via satellite, but was still terrible.

6. Assorted SD via DirecTV Satellite:

CNN, MSNBC, FOX all looked quite good most of the time. Particular backgrounds would result in macroblocking. Again, this is PERFECTLY PREDICTABLE. I saw it on my 42" Toshiba RPTV (3 Gun type ). I expected SD via DirecTV to be horrible. It is not. Most channels I watch are quite comfortable to watch, most of the time, given what they are showing (I watch a lot of news in SD, not movie programming)

7. Assorted SD OTA

Across the board, looks much better than SD via satellite. This shows the obvious difference between a source with lots of compression (satellite) and a source with very little (OTA).

===============================================

Observation Summary:

This is an HD Televison. For HD source material it is wonderful. For DVD material it is quite good (in general, there are certainly some DVDs that don't look good).

SD material that is not highly compressed is watchable.

SD material that is highly compressed will at times look awful.

How bad the compressed SD looks is HIGHLY dependent on the actual scene (backgrounds and varying darkness) material. Some looks as good or better than my 42" Tosh did.

Would I recommend this TV for HD viewers: Absolutely! The price/performance ratio is very favorable. Reliablity seems good (from the reports I have read). My previewing audience fell in love with the HL-R5667W on the DLP-58X stand.

Bottom Line: This is an HD Television (duh!). If you don't have HD source material and do not intend getting it, then don't buy it. If you have an extensive DVD collection that constitutes most of your viewing, then you will be happy with some DVDs and not with others. As the other poster pointed out, you may be unhappy with more DVDs than not. This has not been my experience, but it is certainly possible.

N.B.

Viewing distance: If you like an HDTV of this size at 12 feet, then when you watch non-HD sources, MOVE BACK. The further you get back from from SD material, the better it will look. The same is true of DVD's. Many people sit WAY TOO CLOSE to their televisions, and then complain about how it looks.

It never ceases to amaze me that people don't understand the true effects of GIGO. Garbage In - Garbage Out. This TV is not "causing" bad video. This TV is making the shortcomings of"bad video source material" very obvious.

Actually, complaining about the SD/DVD performance of this TV borders on the ludicrous. It is similar to complaining about the sound quality of a hand held transistor radio. (The radio is way too small to have good fidelity from its speaker. This TV is way too big to have good video with compromised sources)

If one wants good SD performance, buy a TV INTENDED for the purpose. Even a 36" tube tv looks pretty funky on compressed SD. Definitions less than HD on this television are an AFTERTHOUGHT. They are secondary considerations, not primary design goals.

This is a fine HDTV. So far, I am pleased beyond description. Then again, I don't expect CNN to look impressive, nor do I expect low-res DVDs to look impressive either. Both look fine on my wife's 36" 4:3 tube television, and some of them (DVDs) look quite good on the HL-R5667W.

Guys, right now I have a 15lb center speaker on an OMNI-Mount stand on top of my 5667W. Is that too heavy? Does anyone think I should move it under my TV?

I'm with you Hasan.

You hit the nail on the head and I was amazed ppl were panning the set as if it's an Edsel. Clearly it's not -- even fresh out of the box with no adjustment except maybe to change it to native resolution of 720p. The high definition pix are very good. I wasn't thrilled with SD. And making adjustments via Avia helps (and any home theatre junkie will have that done). I've also however gone into the service menu and changed the Index Delay (which I recommend if you are not having it professionally calibarated) and now BOTH standard definition and HD perform well -- the timing adjustment on the color wheel dials out the macroblocking. Note that I'm having it professionally calibrated soon, but am happy with performance after making just the Index Delay adjustment. I wanted my SD Sat Digital channels that we watch everyday to be macroblocking-free and it was driving me crazy!

Especially looking forward to the guy doing the grey scale!

Also, was it kept on the matching stand? Does it have any bowing issues?
Could someone PLEASE direct me to some points of reference on this? I have the matcning stand and am worried...
I have done extensive web searches, and searched Samsungs site as well. I see no info for the manufacturer, or this problem.... I would like the hotfix for the problem from the manufacturer.
I am looking at my 46, and I see that the rubber feet don't even touch in the center.
Thanks


I've also however gone into the service menu and changed the Index Delay ?
Also any help on going in to the service menu to do this would be appreciated.

Hasan, thanks for the flip-side review. I plan on watching Digital Cable feeds and HD feeds, so I'm not sure if this is the TV I should be looking at. However, have you ever viewed DVD's using the Oppo DVD player connected via HDMI? I would think that would improve the picture greatly.

Guys, right now I have a 15lb center speaker on an OMNI-Mount stand on top of my 5667W. Is that too heavy? Does anyone think I should move it under my TV?Yes, given the bowing frenzy that ppl seem to be caught up in (I haven't noticed any, knock on wood). I would place it on the floor say on a little angled stand (vinyl covered nine-inch MDF cheapie at RS) and angle it up with foculpods. After doing balance check with RS meter it sounds fine. I moved the components that have remote control eyes on first shelf under the TV and others like amps sit behind the center. Boom, nothing to it. I thought voices might sound boomy but angling it makes it a non issue, surprisingly. Especially since many speakers ppl use have limited bandwith on purpose and lows are sent to sub. Mine is full range and still sounds good, better than when I had it mounted on previous full cabinet TV.

Hasan, thanks for the flip-side review. I plan on watching Digital Cable feeds and HD feeds, so I'm not sure if this is the TV I should be looking at. However, have you ever viewed DVD's using the Oppo DVD player connected via HDMI? I would think that would improve the picture greatly.I have the Oppo and it makes the DVDs look almost as good as HD and we are rediscovering our collection. A great match! What I can't get over is the one HDMI input on the Samsung ... now *that* is worth slagging!

For the Index Delay, use the search this forum and you'll find it easy. Be sure to search for Service Menu and Index Delay and read up.

Yes, given the bowing frenzy that ppl seem to be caught up in (I haven't noticed any, knock on wood). I would place it on the floor say on a little angled stand (vinyl covered nine-inch MDF cheapie at RS) and angle it up with foculpods. After doing balance check with RS meter it sounds fine. I moved the components that have remote control eyes on first shelf under the TV and others like amps sit behind the center. Boom, nothing to it. I thought voices might sound boomy but angling it makes it a non issue, surprisingly. Especially since many speakers ppl use have limited bandwith on purpose and lows are sent to sub. Mine is full range and still sounds good, better than when I had it mounted on previous full cabinet TV.The DLP58X stand I have already has a shelf that's wide enough for my center. It's just that I live in an apt and my downstairs neighbor has already complained about sound. My screen is bowed enough as it is (brand new set), and I don't want to make it any worse. I have a pair of Pioneer SE-DIR800 surround headphones (love em') when I really want to crank things up.

I really think my set is bowed way too much. When I hit the "D-Net" button, part of the menu is off the screen.

I'm with you Hasan.

You hit the nail on the head and I was amazed ppl were panning the set as if it's an Edsel. Clearly it's not -- even fresh out of the box with no adjustment except maybe to change it to native resolution of 720p. The high definition pix are very good. I wasn't thrilled with SD. And making adjustments via Avia helps (and any home theatre junkie will have that done). I've also however gone into the service menu and changed the Index Delay (which I recommend if you are not having it professionally calibarated) and now BOTH standard definition and HD perform well -- the timing adjustment on the color wheel dials out the macroblocking. Note that I'm having it professionally calibrated soon, but am happy with performance after making just the Index Delay adjustment. I wanted my SD Sat Digital channels that we watch everyday to be macroblocking-free and it was driving me crazy!

Especially looking forward to the guy doing the grey scale!

How did you change the resolution to 720p?

At the source (DVD or Sat), to minimze the set needing to upscale image and thereby provide pixel to pixel matching, or close to it (besides set's overscanning). You can ID it with Avia Pro pixel mapping test panel.

Do you guys throw away the box that your TVs comes in? Most electronics I keep boxes in a store room for at least a while, in case I sold or needed to return. Don't you think TV boxes are too big to keep though?

Finally, I have TWO bad pixels on my new 47-inch Samsung DLP. One is right in the middle, but you can only see it when you're straight aligned with the TV, if you shift to the left or right, it goes away. The second is smaller, a bit above and to the left.

The place I bought it from would allow me to return it, if I wanted for exchange, but isn't the possibility of dead pixels on a display this large pretty substantial?

Oops, one more question.

The simulated surround sound the TV has, when you connect the HDMI. Is "Stereo," the normal one should use? the other option is "3d mono."

Yes, I will get a surround system at some point, but might as well play with this, since I can. :)

I'm on a granite slab. The screen doesn't sag. Not even slightly.
It's not necessary to support the screen unless you're transporting it.
The sagging issue was associated with a bad matching stand design.

Is this still an issue? Are the stands still a bad design? Would a 47-inch be affected, or only the larger displays?

How did you change the resolution to 720p?

As he said, he changed the incoming source. The set has no resolution adjustment. It will receive any resolution, but will only display 720P. That's how it's made.

Do you guys throw away the box that your TVs comes in? Most electronics I keep boxes in a store room for at least a while, in case I sold or needed to return. Don't you think TV boxes are too big to keep though?

Finally, I have TWO bad pixels on my new 47-inch Samsung DLP. One is right in the middle, but you can only see it when you're straight aligned with the TV, if you shift to the left or right, it goes away. The second is smaller, a bit above and to the left.

The place I bought it from would allow me to return it, if I wanted for exchange, but isn't the possibility of dead pixels on a display this large pretty substantial?

Stuck micro-mirrors are very rare...if that is indeed what you're seeing.
Get it swapped out! I would!

Is this still an issue? Are the stands still a bad design? Would a 47-inch be affected, or only the larger displays?

If your stand doesn't support the base of the set all the way across you may see a bowing of the base. (the speaker area...not the screen) If you don't see it you're fine.

I threw away my box. It was just too big to keep around.

Stereo is always better than mono. Dolby 5.1 systems are under $200 these days. Most content is still 5.1, so, I think they are an excellent value. They really complete the home theater experience.

I'm finding that the worst macro-blocking occurs in solid color backgrounds of some sat standard definition movies. The light casted of these backgrounds shoud cause smooth tint variations, but flashy blocking ocurs instead. I stumbled across a particularly bad example today and popped into the SM to adjust my Index Delay again. At 56 I almost dialed it out, but some of it was still there. I guess I'm saying you can improve the condition to a watchable level , but not eliminate it.

Great post, Hasan! I agree with you 100 percent!

I just wanted to add to this post since I have been a hlr4667 owner for about a week.

my first impression straight out of the box was that sd images were not very good. I couldnt put my finger on it but the picture looked off for some reason.

following the advice on this forum, i adjusted my index and gamma and i have to say it made a HUGE difference with sd and dvd performance.

i watched hidden tiger crouching dragon with my mouth open! I didnt experience any of this "macro blocking" that others talk about. I have only adjusted the contrast, brightness etc. visually and will be getting a avia calibration disc soon.

i ordered my tv through amazon and i am satisfied with the entire transaction so far.

i did notice however that watching home videos on this tv made these "scan line" looking things appear. I noticed a horizontal stripe that was brighter than the rest of the screen and it would work its way all the way up the screen and then start over in the middle of the screen.

my dad didnt even notice it but i did. Is it a connection issue? the dvd player is connected through the worse connection possible (composite). I didnt notice it during tv viewing.

Well I just bought the 5067w tonight. I received too good of a deal to pass up. I got an extended warranty with bulb coverage for 4 years and a stand and was still way below the selling prices of the 2006 50" 720p sets. It should be deliverd by this wednesday because I couldnt fit the box in my car.

i did notice however that watching home videos on this tv made these "scan line" looking things appear. I noticed a horizontal stripe that was brighter than the rest of the screen and it would work its way all the way up the screen and then start over in the middle of the screen.

my dad didnt even notice it but i did. Is it a connection issue? the dvd player is connected through the worse connection possible (composite). I didnt notice it during tv viewing.

Sure sounds like an external signal getting into the composite connection. Switch to component cables. If it's still there it might be time for a new DVD player.

Is this still an issue? Are the stands still a bad design? Would a 47-inch be affected, or only the larger displays?
Search this thread for "ameriwood" and you will find all the posts you need regarding the flawed stand design. If you contact the company, they will take care of you (from what others have said).



Actually, complaining about the SD/DVD performance of this TV borders on the ludicrous. It is similar to complaining about the sound quality of a hand held transistor radio. (The radio is way too small to have good fidelity from its speaker. This TV is way too big to have good video with compromised sources).

I guess my question is, then, if you expect many/most of your DVDs to look bad on this TV... Why can these same DVDs look much better on other HDTVs? I have compared many of the DVDs that look like garbage on my TV, and watched them on the Sony A10 and a friend's plasma TV (not sure of the model), and they did not have anywhere near the same level of macroblocking... Looked much better, and I really had nothing to complain about. With MY TV... Much of my DVD collection is now basically worthless to me.

Also, why is the video lag and Xbox/PS2 game response lag acceptable? And the fact that, to (supposedly) address this video (not gaming) lag, you can pass the audio first thru your TV, and then to your HT system... BUT THE TV WILL NOT OUTPUT THE AUDIO IN 5.1. How could Samsung design the TV this way? Who would buy a TV of this caliber and plan to listen to it in 2-channel mode? Ridiculous.

As I have said several times in prior postings to this thread, I am a total HT novice, and it's my own fault that I went into this TV purchase without the proper amount of information -- I jumped on a price mistake deal and did not do enough research before the buy. I expected this TV to work properly -- I guess that was naive. If it cannot process the video fast enough for it to always be in sync with the audio, then I see this as a serious and unacceptable flaw. I should not need to purchase additional equipment to conceal or adapt to this flaw. It's a matter of principle for me. I could accept the DVD issues, because, yes, this TV is meant for HD content and overall displays it exceptionally, but this lag issue is a defect to me.

I have the Oppo and it makes the DVDs look almost as good as HD and we are rediscovering our collection. A great match! What I can't get over is the one HDMI input on the Samsung ... now *that* is worth slagging!

For the Index Delay, use the search this forum and you'll find it easy. Be sure to search for Service Menu and Index Delay and read up.

Rocky,

Just curious about your Index Delay adjustment... what is your before (factory setting) and after setting ? I played with the Index Delay myself and did not notice much difference with macro-blocking. The big difference came when I sent my Oppo back and put a Sony up-converting player in its place. I read that the Faroudja chipset actually "enhances" the marco-blocking bug, and I believe it now. Though the Sony player does not completely eliminate the problem, it is now a lot less noticable. I compared the two players side-by-side for a day or two before returning the Oppo. For bright scenes, I would probably give a slight nod to the Oppo, but for darker scenes the Sony player was significantly better. When I did notice macro-blocking with the Sony, it just wasn't as bad... the pixels were more settled down (not as much dancing). It's too bad because I really wanted to keep the Oppo player. They provided great support both before and after purchase. I will consider an Oppo player again if they can work something out with Faroudja on the macro-blocking issue, or perhaps when they come out with their first HD player.

I also wanted to chime in on Hasan's comments and say that I agree with most of what he said. I am believing more and more that source material and excessive compression is the main macro-blocking culprit. I think what it boils down to is that DLP technology is just not as good at hiding source material flaws as CRT technology. In fact, if the source material had no compression and was pure digital 720p, I am guessing one would never notice macro-blocking on a properly functioning DLP set, even with very dark scenes. As an example, I watched the "Deep Blue" DVD tonight on my new Sony player, and I only noticed a slight macro-blocking problem three times during the movie... and there were plenty of dark scenes. I think the reasons for the good performance with "Deep Blue" are two-fold:
1) Appears that most scenes were shot digitally, &
2) Very little compression (movie was less than 1-1/2 hours long and very few extras on the disc).
I also have a suspicion that the 16:9 format of this movie helps versus theater wide-screen, perhaps again because of less compression and just overall more light output from filling the entire display.

I'm finding that the worst macro-blocking occurs in solid color backgrounds of some sat standard definition movies. The light casted of these backgrounds shoud cause smooth tint variations, but flashy blocking ocurs instead. I stumbled across a particularly bad example today and popped into the SM to adjust my Index Delay again. At 56 I almost dialed it out, but some of it was still there. I guess I'm saying you can improve the condition to a watchable level , but not eliminate it.

Hi-Rez,

Did you adjust Index Delay upwards or downwards to minimize macro-blocking ??? 56 seems like a very high setting, and almost everyone has been adjusting Index Delay downward a few steps.

When I was trying to tweak Index Delay to mimimize macro-blocking, the only time I seemed to notice an improvement was when watching the opening scene in "Goblet of Fire", which is about the worst case of macro-blocking I have seen so far. I am guessing this scene is just severely compressed video. Anyway, I thought I noticed an improvement when going from 45 (factory setting) to 47 or 48. I left it at 48 for a few days, but right away started noticing that my HD OTA content looked worse. I've since gone back to the factory setting of 45. Perhaps tweaking Index Delay can improve SD and DVD content, but do you lose something with HD content ?

Stuck micro-mirrors are very rare...if that is indeed what you're seeing.
Get it swapped out! I would!

Really? Anyone else experienced this? When sitting in the center of the TV (back at any distance), I can see these 2 dots on lighter backgrounds. When I move to left or right a bit, they go away, and they also seem to be gone or less visible in dark background.

Really? Anyone else experienced this? When sitting in the center of the TV (back at any distance), I can see these 2 dots on lighter backgrounds. When I move to left or right a bit, they go away, and they also seem to be gone or less visible in dark background.

I have NO 'dead pixels' or stuck mirrors. If I had any - I would be on the phone to Samsung for replacement.

If it cannot process the video fast enough for it to always be in sync with the audio, then I see this as a serious and unacceptable flaw. I should not need to purchase additional equipment to conceal or adapt to this flaw. It's a matter of principle for me. I could accept the DVD issues, because, yes, this TV is meant for HD content and overall displays it exceptionally, but this lag issue is a defect to me.

The amount of time that it takes the circuitry to process the signal depends greatly on the input signal. The more conversion is has to do (480i to 720p = alot) means the longer the delay. On top of this the older chips seem to have a naturally slower processing time than the new ones. If you read up on the latest models, they have cut the processing time down significantly (too bad if you have an older HLR model). So have you changed all your cable outputs to be 720p and reduce the conversion time?

Xbox360 has no lag whatsoever - upgrade your console to match the tv. Stop griping to us :confused: - take it to samsung if you're that upset. And btw - all DLP and LCOS televisions have lag due to processing the image time - this is not a SAMSUNG only issue if that's what you think. Read around on other threads and you'll see the same complaints for all early DLP sets, regardless of brand. The newer 1080p capable sets seem to have better chipsets that reduce the time, making it less noticeable if at all - but it's still there.

And if you MUST play your outdated xbox or ps2, then give up the 5.1 and play in stereo.

I have the Oppo and it makes the DVDs look almost as good as HD and we are rediscovering our collection. A great match! What I can't get over is the one HDMI input on the Samsung ... now *that* is worth slagging!

For the Index Delay, use the search this forum and you'll find it easy. Be sure to search for Service Menu and Index Delay and read up.

I did the AVIA adjustments yesterday and it confirmed why I like the picture on the 5667W so much. My own adjustments proved out to be very, very close (before doing Avia). The only input I needed adjustment on was the DVD side, where I increased contrast to 75. I have sharpness set to 10 now. Color remains at 50, as does Cool1 for color temperature. (I switched between Normal and Cool1, and observed very little difference, so I let it sit at the default which was Cool1 as it came out of the box.

You didn't mention what your starting value for Index Delay was, and what you ended up setting it for that you considered optimum. What were these settings?

I'm thinking of doing the Index Delay adjustment this evening when I get home, and am curious what the start and finish points were.

I changed my Index Delay from 46 to 43. Many others liked 42 apparently but I didn't. Each TV of same model is different, based partially on light engine I hear, so YMMV.

In the same vein some here seem to like all sharpness off but I think it cleans up my SD (compressed) Sat channels so I leave it on, edge enhancment or no. I can see macroblocking once in a while if I look for it, but I enjoy the movie instead. The Peter Jackson extended edition discs for example are full of dark scenes but I didn't blink and got pulled into the action. BTW, It looks like many ppl don't have a full blown home theatre for sound and I'm sure if I had to listen to those Samsung internal speakers 24/7 (or any TV speakers) instead, I would not like it and it would be a whole different experience.

I have the OPPO player after reading up on it, and since it beat $5,000 players in testing, based on price I guess I fully expected it to be just so much hype, but once I sat down and watched it, it blew my Philips DVD963SA (also has DCDi) out of the water. It also has DVI output which made a difference for me. Not sure if it's clear but folks who have the Oppo and *don't* like what Faroudja processing does, can shut it off. IMO the recent firmware raises the quality up another notch, as if it needed it! Great buy and saying a lot since I admit I'm hard to please.

Hi-Rez,

Did you adjust Index Delay upwards or downwards to minimize macro-blocking ??? 56 seems like a very high setting, and almost everyone has been adjusting Index Delay downward a few steps.

When I was trying to tweak Index Delay to mimimize macro-blocking, the only time I seemed to notice an improvement was when watching the opening scene in "Goblet of Fire", which is about the worst case of macro-blocking I have seen so far. I am guessing this scene is just severely compressed video. Anyway, I thought I noticed an improvement when going from 45 (factory setting) to 47 or 48. I left it at 48 for a few days, but right away started noticing that my HD OTA content looked worse. I've since gone back to the factory setting of 45. Perhaps tweaking Index Delay can improve SD and DVD content, but do you lose something with HD content ?

My factory setting was 64. I took the setting 20 steps in both directions just to see what would happen. The picture starts to block up when you adjust too far in either direction.

My HD channels still look perfect. I don't think there is a trade off with the adjustment. I agree with you about severely compressed video being the source content that creates the issue.

I'm thinking of doing the Index Delay adjustment this evening when I get home, and am curious what the start and finish points were.

Every set has a different factory Index Delay setting. What works for someone else might not work at all for you.

Had my new HLR5667 hooked up to STB via coax, getting a fairly decent picture in widescreen format. Then switched out my STB for a HD box and hooked up a HDMI/DVI cable from HD Box to TV. Well, five days later, getting lousy picture quality, no HD and when watching local channels it comes in as 4:3. So I hooked the coax back up and now switch over to Cable Mode when wanting to watch local news and switch back to HDMI Mode when I want to watch the two HDNet channels I get. Go figure. Maybe a bad HD box, is there something I'm not doing right? I prefer the full screen format when watching local channels but don't want to switch Modes/Source back and forth. The Cable Company has a service tech on the way but they have been telling me that for the past five days. So many questions, so little patience.

I'm finding that the worst macro-blocking occurs in solid color backgrounds of some sat standard definition movies. The light casted of these backgrounds shoud cause smooth tint variations, but flashy blocking ocurs instead. I stumbled across a particularly bad example today and popped into the SM to adjust my Index Delay again. At 56 I almost dialed it out, but some of it was still there. I guess I'm saying you can improve the condition to a watchable level , but not eliminate it.

Great post, Hasan! I agree with you 100 percent!
Hi-Rez,
Like stash64, I'm also interested in which direction you adjusted your Index Delay. More precisely, what was your starting point or default setting prior to adjusting to 56?

I also couldn't agree more with Hasan's comments!

Hi-Rez,
Just saw your latest post. I wasn't quite caught up yet to the most recent posts when I inquired.

Had my new HLR5667 hooked up to STB via coax, getting a fairly decent picture in widescreen format. Then switched out my STB for a HD box and hooked up a HDMI/DVI cable from HD Box to TV. Well, five days later, getting lousy picture quality, no HD and when watching local channels it comes in as 4:3. So I hooked the coax back up and now switch over to Cable Mode when wanting to watch local news and switch back to HDMI Mode when I want to watch the two HDNet channels I get. Go figure. Maybe a bad HD box, is there something I'm not doing right? I prefer the full screen format when watching local channels but don't want to switch Modes/Source back and forth. The Cable Company has a service tech on the way but they have been telling me that for the past five days. So many questions, so little patience.
I'm going off of the top of my head, so this probably won't be very accurate once you get into the STB menu. With your TV on, turn off the HD STB and press Menu on the STB Remote. The STB menu will display. There is a line for aspect ratio (4:3 only). Scroll down to that line and, using the left/right buttons on the remote, select 4:3 stretch. This will allow stretching of analog and some digital signals. Some digital signals are broadcast in 4:3 and cannot be stretched. Let me know whether or not this works for you. I can verify the steps when I get home if you need me to.

I'm going off of the top of my head, so this probably won't be very accurate once you get into the STB menu. With your TV on, turn off the HD STB and press Menu on the STB Remote. The STB menu will display. There is a line for aspect ratio (4:3 only). Scroll down to that line and, using the left/right buttons on the remote, select 4:3 stretch. This will allow stretching of analog and some digital signals. Some digital signals are broadcast in 4:3 and cannot be stretched. Let me know whether or not this works for you. I can verify the steps when I get home if you need me to.
I can't even get into the service menu for the STB remote. I'm about one day from throwing it out the window. I've tried every combination for this stb remote and nothing gets me in and they gave me a brand new one.
Out of curiousity I did get in to the service menu for my Sammy via the tv remote and changed the index to 42 although I didn't see anything for gamma. Also I noticed a menu item for Lamp Hours, it said 68hr. Is that how much I have on it or how much I have remaining?

I guess my question is, then, if you expect many/most of your DVDs to look bad on this TV... Why can these same DVDs look much better on other HDTVs? I have compared many of the DVDs that look like garbage on my TV, and watched them on the Sony A10 and a friend's plasma TV (not sure of the model), and they did not have anywhere near the same level of macroblocking... Looked much better, and I really had nothing to complain about. With MY TV... Much of my DVD collection is now basically worthless to me..

Please don't take my comments below as an affront, I don't intend them that way. I have very limited time, but wanted to give you some advice and feedback. Take it for what it's worth. I apologize up front, if I'm being too "direct". I wasn't trying to be rude. As I read my remarks, the are a bit blunt.

I don't expect most of my DVDs to look bad...so far I find most look terrific. I must not own the problematic ones. Proper adjustment of the TV will give you very good results, even with DVDs. This will require up to three things: 3. Getting the TV calibrated, 2. Going into the service menu (which, based on your current level of frustration, I don't recommend doing), 1. Adjusting the standard user settings, including room lilghting. (I listed them in reverse order, but numbered them in their proper order).

Also, why is the video lag and Xbox/PS2 game response lag acceptable? And the fact that, to (supposedly) address this video (not gaming) lag, you can pass the audio first thru your TV, and then to your HT system... BUT THE TV WILL NOT OUTPUT THE AUDIO IN 5.1. How could Samsung design the TV this way? Who would buy a TV of this caliber and plan to listen to it in 2-channel mode? Ridiculous...

Who would buy a high end HDTV and connect up their sound system like this? The audio output from typical source devices should go DIRECTLY to the Amplifier/Receiver, NOT be routed into the TV and back out...that's plain silly. It makes no sense technically (even if it is all digital, the digital processing inside the TV is likely to be inferior to the digital processing in the home theatre amp) I agree with you, that routing to the TV and back out (and losing DD 5.1) as a proposed cure for lip-sync issues is moronic. There are technical issues as to why these TV's don't do DD 5.1 pass through, that I'm not going to go into. As far as gaming goes, I don't do it, so someone else can comment.

Again, lip-sync issues have two sources: processing delay and source dependencies. I see very little delay on most things I watch, but some very severe delay on TNT HD via satellite. Your home theatre receiver should have an adjustment for this...if it doesn't, then you can add external delay. Why do you think home theatre amps have this built-in, these days? It is because it is a known issue with HDTV technology. This TV belongs in a quality home theatre system (and audio lag, as pointed out by other posters, is certain in EVERY HD system. My Toshiba 42" 3 gun RPTV had it...this set is no different.)

As I have said several times in prior postings to this thread, I am a total HT novice, and it's my own fault that I went into this TV purchase without the proper amount of information -- I jumped on a price mistake deal and did not do enough research before the buy. I expected this TV to work properly -- I guess that was naive. If it cannot process the video fast enough for it to always be in sync with the audio, then I see this as a serious and unacceptable flaw. I should not need to purchase additional equipment to conceal or adapt to this flaw. It's a matter of principle for me. I could accept the DVD issues, because, yes, this TV is meant for HD content and overall displays it exceptionally, but this lag issue is a defect to me.

You are criticizing from a point of technical ignorance (please don't take this as an insult...it is just a fact, you don't know what you doing yet) and assumed you could buy an HDTV, connect it any way you want and have top of the line results. This just isn't the case, and it isn't the TV's fault. Your lack of understanding of how these systems interoperate is the principle that you should be concerned about. The 5667W that I have does EXACTLY what I expected it to....but much better than I had any right to expect. The TV does work PROPERLY. If you understood information processing properly. you would see that DELAY is an issue with all sets, and some of it has nothing to do with the set, but is part of "material delivery/provider" shortcomings.

Relax, take a deep breath and consider the technical issues that cause the anomalies you want to resolve. There are straightforward solutions to nearly all of them (except excessive compression), and those same solutions (+/-) are required of all HDTVs. You expected certain things from the TV out of the box, without considering how it fit into your existing "system". This has produced some "issues", but they are easily solved. Those of us who planned ahead, don't have them, or understand how to resolve them.

Instead of finding fault and blaming the device/manufacturer, begin to ANALYZE the issues, evaluate options and then consider what to do to resolve them. You seem fixated on "They shudda done 'dis, They shudda done 'dat". Words like "crap", "serious and unacceptable flaws" and "defect", don't help. They would be fair assessments, IF and ONLY IF, they were not part of normal system integration for a complex video/audio device, AND readily resolvable, but they are. These issues are perfectly normal for the technology involved. You seem to be taking out your disappointment on this inanimate object, that is only doing its job. Properly situated and adjusted, it does its job very, very well. Thousands of people into high-end video/audio are so happy with these DLP units that they could just **it.

You have the set. You're stuck with it. Learn how to make the most out of it and you may just end up joining the ranks of the "overjoyed", instead of being bummed. In the end, you just might discover that you have nothing to be disappointed about.

Consider all the variables that you have dropped this display device into (and all the assumptions you made, not based on experience or technical understanding, but your self-admitted "newby-ness"

Including, but not limited to:

External Device Shortcomings = "Sources" in the example below

Audio processing block:
Sources, Amplifiers, Cables, Interconnect methods.

Video Processing block:
Sources, Cables, Interconnect methods (including video switching)

N.B. Don't spend any real money on cables. If you paid more than $25.00 for an HDMI/DVI cable, you got ripped, for example. "Not good enough" cables are almost NEVER the problem in most systems, particularly digital systems.

Getting the most out of your home theatre experience takes some work. It is definitely not "plug and play" to the discriminating home theatre nut. :rolleyes: A lot of learning, experience, questioning and LISTENING to others in an ORGANIZED way are required. Instead of voicing your issues, laced with opinions about what the TV should or shouldn't do, (based on not having any idea what you are talking about), take the time to LEARN how all this fancy equipment you just shelled out the big bucks for works, and can be optimized.

If things were as dramatically and unresolvably messed up as you seem to be experiencing, these sets would not be selling, and you wouldn't see so many positive reviews of them from consumers. When 95% of the people are exquisitely pleased, and you find yourself in the 5%, certain questions must be asked (of oneself). It is left to the student to work out that part :)

I can't even get into the service menu for the STB remote. I'm about one day from throwing it out the window. I've tried every combination for this stb remote and nothing gets me in and they gave me a brand new one.
Out of curiousity I did get in to the service menu for my Sammy via the tv remote and changed the index to 42 although I didn't see anything for gamma. Also I noticed a menu item for Lamp Hours, it said 68hr. Is that how much I have on it or how much I have remaining?
ric,
Have you tried turning off the STB and pressing the Menu button on the STB, rather than the remote? I believe that should work as well. I don't know what cable provider you have or where in MD you are, but perhaps there might be some info to help you out on this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=275834&highlight=comcast). This particular post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=3515012&highlight=menu#post3515012) within that thread confirms that pressing the Menu button on the STB (when it's off) should get you into the STB Menu.

Please don't take my comments below as an affront, I don't intend them that way. I have very limited time, but wanted to give you some advice and feedback. Take it for what it's worth. I apologize up front, if I'm being too "direct".

You are criticizing from a point of technical ignorance (please don't take this as an insult...it is just a fact, you don't know what you doing yet) and assumed you could buy an HDTV, connect it any way you want and have top of the line results. This just isn't the case, and it isn't the TV's fault. Your lack of understanding of how these systems interoperate is the principle that you should be concerned about. The 5667W that I have does EXACTLY what I expected it to....but much better than I had any right to expect. The TV does work PROPERLY. If you understood information processing properly. you would see that DELAY is an issue with all sets, and some of it has nothing to do with the set, but is part of "material delivery/provider" shortcomings.

Instead of finding fault and blaming the device/manufacturer, begin to ANALYZE the issues, evaluate options and then consider what to do to resolve them. You seem fixated on "They shudda done 'dis, They shudda done 'dat". Words like "crap", "serious and unacceptable flaws" and "defect", don't help. They would be fair assessments, IF and ONLY IF, they were not part of normal system integration for a complex video/audio device, AND readily resolvable, but they are. These issues are perfectly normal for the technology involved. You seem to be taking out your disappointment on this inanimate object, that is only doing its job. Properly situated and adjusted, it does its job very, very well. Thousands of people into high-end video/audio are so happy with these DLP units that they could just **it.

If things were as dramatically and unresolvably messed up as you seem to be experiencing, these sets would not be selling, and you wouldn't see so many positive reviews of them from consumers. When 95% of the people are exquisitely pleased, and you find yourself in the 5%, certain questions must be asked (of oneself). It is left to the student to work out that part :)

OK - he just said what I meant to say earlier... HASAN can you write all my posts from now on? :rolleyes:

You must have been an english honor student too - affront? 'round these parts we just say insult. :p

OK - he just said what I meant to say earlier... HASAN can you write all my posts from now on? :rolleyes:

You must have been an english honor student too - affront? 'round these parts we just say insult. :p

OK, I'll write your posts, if you'll do all my spatial relations projects (ya know, the kind of things where they show you a shaded pattern and ask you to fold it up into the corresponding box?). I don't do those....at all. The army told me I had a spatial IQ of 40 (normalized to 100, that puts me well into the moron range). :o

I was amazed when I was playing around with Avia, btw. I could not get the 5667W to misperform with either sharpness or contrast set to absurd levels. Same story with the power supply torture tests. This is one hell of a television!

The other nice thing I have to say is about TVA. I was very wary of doing an internet order of this size (dollar and physically). Lots of good comments in this forum about them, so I took the chance. I don't regret it a bit.

Lastly, in my prior post I mentioned that 15 people were at the house Saturday evening for a big pot luck dinner. Two of the fifteen are now buying Samsung DLP's after having seen the tests I put mine through for them.

ric,
Have you tried turning off the STB and pressing the Menu button on the STB, rather than the remote? pressing the Menu button on the STB (when it's off) should get you into the STB Menu.

Thanks for the tip, it worked. However the "stretched" PC is not that great. Now to figure out why I can't get a HD signal. It's been five days since my local cable company (Antietam Cable) said they would come out and resolve my HD issue. I have called them everyday and they keep giving me the run around. Just terrible customer service IMO.
On another note where do I change "gamma" in the service menu?

I may have said this several times previously, but it's worth repeating. Cable television is the absolute worst video signal source on the face of this planet. There is really nothing good I can say about it. People who complain about poor picture quality are almost always cable subscribers. They're the same folks who complain about missing HD channels and CableCard glitches. The concept of collecting video signals in a central location and boosting them repeatedly every time they get weak on their way to the far side of town is absurd. Also, like any other service corporation they cycle out the knowledgeable higher paid veterans in favor of low paid under-trained rookies to improve their profit margins. By and large the result is an inconsistency in quality and service that nobody should put up with.

If I have offended someone in the cable industry or someone with perfect cable signal, get over it. I'm not talking to you. I'm telling all those cable subs on the fringes, the ones who continue to pay for a garbage signal that there are alternatives. If you're in an apartment or deed restricted condo you may be stuck. Everyone else within 100 miles of network broadcast towers have the option to receive perfect HD digital signal at no charge. An old style VHF/UHF antenna is all that's required. Go to www.antennaweb.org and click on "Choose an Antenna" then enter just your zip to see all available digital channels in your area. The grid will show you the distance and compass direction of each network. Connect to your "Air" input on the set and allow your internal ATSC digital tuner to auto scan the spectrum. Digital channels will have a -1, -2, etc designation to the right of the normal channel number. There is not a better signal than what you can receive off-air for free. This is what your HD "big screen" set was made to display. Do yourself a favor. Stop blaming the new set and start considering the "SOURCE".

How do I access the system menu where it shows me the bulb hours? I am returning it to B/B tomorrow, but I was going to see how many hours it was actually used. I realize there is a search function but it pulls up too many choices for me to sit here and sort through the non relevent stuff.

Brad

How do I access the system menu where it shows me the bulb hours? I am returning it to B/B tomorrow, but I was going to see how many hours it was actually used. I realize there is a search function but it pulls up too many choices for me to sit here and sort through the non relevent stuff.

Brad

With power off, on remote, push mute, 1, 8, 2, power.
Says "Factory Loading" then up comes first menu.
Arrow down to "Option" and push Enter.
Next menu appears with lamp hours.
Push the menu on remote to go back.
Power off to exit SM or off for 1 second then on to exit SM and watch tv.

With power off, on remote, push mute, 1, 8, 2, power.
Says "Factory Loading" then up comes first menu.
Arrow down to "Option" and push Enter.
Next menu appears with lamp hours.
Push the menu on remote to go back.
Power off to exit SM or off for 1 second then on to exit SM and watch tv.
Awesome man. Thanks :)

With power off, on remote, push mute, 1, 8, 2, power.
Says "Factory Loading" then up comes first menu.
Arrow down to "Option" and push Enter.
Next menu appears with lamp hours.
Push the menu on remote to go back.
Power off to exit SM or off for 1 second then on to exit SM and watch tv.

A silly question: Did you void the manufacturer warranty when you access the SM? Last time the service tech told me this so I never dare to squeeze extra juice from the SM. He said he input a password/ID number when he entered the SM. In the future other techs will recognize this number when they do the service. Otherwise, if I ever enter the SM by myself but don't have the magic number, they will know this and the consequence may be serious (void of warranty and possibly pay tons of $$$ if I mess with it).

Hasan...you could be a Samsung salesmen.

A silly question: Did you void the manufacturer warranty when you access the SM? Last time the service tech told me this so I never dare to squeeze extra juice from the SM. He said he input a password/ID number when he entered the SM. In the future other techs will recognize this number when they do the service. Otherwise, if I ever enter the SM by myself but don't have the magic number, they will know this and the consequence may be serious (void of warranty and possibly pay tons of $$$ if I mess with it).

First of all it's YOUR television and he (nor anyone else) has a right to deny you access to ANY of its features (SM included).

Secondly, if it is not explicitly stated in the warranty that the owners must not access the SM, there's not a damn thing they can do. Further, unless they can demonstrate that your access of the SM and any changes you may have made actually caused a TV malfunction or damage, they don't have a leg to stand on.

Consider this however: if you go into the SM, get things all screwed up and cannot enjoy your TV as a consequence, then call for Service, I wouldn't be surprised if you had to pay for a service call.

Don't let some mindless robot make up rules that you did not agree to ahead of time. Even if there is something in the fine print warranty stating no access to the service menu, if it is not called out in BOLD or some other way to CLEARLY CAUTION the owner not to enter SM, then the fine print won't mean much either.

Largely, I think the guy was blowing smoke...and if he did change your access to the SM, I would tell him in no uncertain terms, to set it back and if he made any other changes that I did not authorize to MY television, he would be reading the "fine print" in my lawsuit.

OK, I'll write your posts, if you'll do all my spatial relations projects (ya know, the kind of things where they show you a shaded pattern and ask you to fold it up into the corresponding box?). I don't do those....at all. The army told me I had a spatial IQ of 40 (normalized to 100, that puts me well into the moron range). :o


Hey no problem - I aced those on my AFOQT back when I was in ROTC! heheh But of course they were all silhouettes of aircraft :p

I think the trick it to just respond and don't look at it too long. Once you stare at it for more than 3 seconds, you start thinking it can be pointing any direction.

And would somebody please buy one of those new HD DVD systems and tell us how the picture looks on their sammy? I'm super curious about those... but are there any movies even written for them yet? "Let's make the player first.... then let the studios make the DVD's later..." Brilliant!

Hasan...you could be a Samsung salesmen.

Are you kidding - he IS a Samsung Salesman. I bet he works at Circuit City and makes monster commissions! hehe :D

I am the new owner of an HL-R5667W and I have a question. On 4:3 programming, the vertical bars bow in in the middle of them. I can't find anywhere in the users menu options where you can adjust this out. TMX verified this issue with the vertical bars. Thanks in advance. Other than this I'm happy with the set so far! Jay

I am the new owner of an HL-R5667W and I have a question. On 4:3 programming, the vertical bars bow in in the middle of them. I can't find anywhere in the users menu options where you can adjust this out. TMX verified this issue with the vertical bars. Thanks in advance. Other than this I'm happy with the set so far! Jay

This is a common issue for people - Pincushion is the term for it. There are no adjustments for it in a menu - it is a hit or miss problem. I suggest using the 'stretch' option for 4:3 programs to avoid seeing the 'pillbox' or sidebars on your screen.

Another note to those who use 4:3 native formats. I have a SA 8300 HD cablebox, and I hate the grey pillbox. To get them to appear black (the Sammy's native color) I stretch the image from my cablebox output, then in the 5667's remote hidden panel (the bottom slide-out of the remote) I hit the format button to change it from 16:9 over to 4:3 and it recompresses the image back to native size and have the bars - but black instead of grey. This may also work for fixing the pincushion effect??? not sure - but worth a try. :cool:

I am the new owner of an HL-R5667W and I have a question. On 4:3 programming, the vertical bars bow in in the middle of them. I can't find anywhere in the users menu options where you can adjust this out. TMX verified this issue with the vertical bars. Thanks in advance. Other than this I'm happy with the set so far! Jay

I had the same issue on the same tv.. I called Circuit City and they brought a new one out and it does the same thing. The delivery guy says they all do that..

Strech it is.. then..

A silly question: Did you void the manufacturer warranty when you access the SM? Last time the service tech told me this so I never dare to squeeze extra juice from the SM. He said he input a password/ID number when he entered the SM. In the future other techs will recognize this number when they do the service. Otherwise, if I ever enter the SM by myself but don't have the magic number, they will know this and the consequence may be serious (void of warranty and possibly pay tons of $$$ if I mess with it).

Yea...what hasan said. ha ha
I don't doubt that service techs have been instructed by regional Samsung field reps to discourage owner changes to the SM. They probably ate a few calls over it. I was in my P5063 SM all the time through multiple factory service calls with no mention of it. Nobody has posted an incident about a voided warranty yet. I wouldn't worry about it.

Hasan...you could be a Samsung salesmen.

Smile when you say that, bud! I calls 'em like I sees 'em. But, alas, I am no salesman of any kind. I worked on troposcatter microwave systems in the army, was an engineer's assistant at a navigation electronics firm after that, with a brief stint at a microwave test instrument manufacturing company following that. Electronics/radio has been in my blood since I was 16. Been active in ham radio since then. My work has no connection whatsoever to electronics or sales.

I have no brand loyalties and can be quite critical, where it is reasonable to be so. One thing I've never understood is how a consumer can buy something which is perfectly servicable, and then spend nearly all their time picking apart every possible shortcoming and s so preoccupied that they are never actually able to enjoy anything the product has to offer.

That's why forums like this are so valuable. You get the good, the bad and the ugly about the product and people's experiences with same. Once you filter out the nutiness, quirkiness, and ignorance (as well as honest errors) from the posts of real value, reading this stuff can be a very useful tool. (and at times, quite funny)

Once you filter out the nutiness, quirkiness, and ignorance (as well as honest errors) from the posts of real value, reading this stuff can be a very useful tool. (and at times, quite funny)


THERE WILL BE NO FUN IN HERE - IT IS AGAINST THE RULES! :mad:

The beatings will continue until morale improves! Now back to our regularly scheduled technical discussions.

"... 1 8 2 then enter. Then just go nuts and try hitting the RANDOM selection and see what you get. If it messes up just hold the power button on the front of the set until it resets after about 5 seconds and the factory default settings will return. If you unplug the set, plug it back in while holding the power button on the front of the set + the menu button on the remote and it will automatically self calibrate to the best settings.... I think. I read that somewhere once. maybe that was the JVC model though..." :confused:

THERE WILL BE NO FUN IN HERE - IT IS AGAINST THE RULES! :mad:

The beatings will continue until morale improves! Now back to our regularly scheduled technical discussions.

"... 1 8 2 then enter. Then just go nuts and try hitting the RANDOM selection and see what you get. If it messes up just hold the power button on the front of the set until it resets after about 5 seconds and the factory default settings will return. If you unplug the set, plug it back in while holding the power button on the front of the set + the menu button on the remote and it will automatically self calibrate to the best settings.... I think. I read that somewhere once. maybe that was the JVC model though..." :confused:

That's hilarious!
Thanks for the comic relief!

I had the same issue on the same tv.. I called Circuit City and they brought a new one out and it does the same thing. The delivery guy says they all do that..

Strech it is.. then..


It is normal. Let's not forget that this is an HDTV. My pincushioning is very minimal (I must have gotten lucky), but I still prefer stretch mode for SD...I know that will make some purists apoplectic, but sad as it may be, it reflects my preference based on comparing the two (pillar box vs. stretch).

As a result, everyone I meet looks like they've been on a diet or were born with really small heads. :rolleyes:

It is normal. Let's not forget that this is an HDTV. My pincushioning is very minimal (I must have gotten lucky), but I still prefer stretch mode for SD...I know that will make some purists apoplectic, but sad as it may be, it reflects my preference based on comparing the two (pillar box vs. stretch).

As a result, everyone I meet looks like they've been on a diet or were born with really small heads. :rolleyes:

Now I'm scared to return my TV with dead mirrors, for fear of getting the pincushion! :(

ok, if you guys remember i posted about my 46" sammy displaying a light "band" in the middle of the screen and then gradually working it way to the top and then starting in the middle of the screen again.

i was using a composite connection and thought that might be the problem. Well I switched to component and I still get that "scan line"

It only shows up when there is a solid color on the screen, but its really getting annoying. Does this warrant a service call to Samsung? Could it be the dvd player? The dvd player is less than a couple months old, its a JVC dvd recorder/vcr combo. And I KNOW it didnt do this before on my CRT Tube tv.

I just got my HL-R5067w delivered this morning. Man is it huge. When looking at them in the store, they appear so much smaller. This tv rocks and can't wait for prime time TV in High def tonight .

ok, if you guys remember i posted about my 46" sammy displaying a light "band" in the middle of the screen and then gradually working it way to the top and then starting in the middle of the screen again.

i was using a composite connection and thought that might be the problem. Well I switched to component and I still get that "scan line"

It only shows up when there is a solid color on the screen, but its really getting annoying. Does this warrant a service call to Samsung? Could it be the dvd player? The dvd player is less than a couple months old, its a JVC dvd recorder/vcr combo. And I KNOW it didnt do this before on my CRT Tube tv.

When I first saw your post I had a quick thought and then forgot about it. Sorry ... anywho, my thought was that it could well be a ground loop between the two devices causing alternating current to be flowing on the ground connection between the two devices. Hmmmm...some suggestions:

1. As an experiment:

Unplug your DVD player from the AC outlet. Is the AC power plug a 3 prong or two prong plug? If it is a 3 prong plug, try inserting a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter in between the power plug and the AC outlet, thus removing the common ground. Does the scan line disappear? If so, it is a ground loop problem.

2. If the plug is a 2 wire plug, try plugging it into a different outlet. (remote from where you are plugging in the TV. (You can try a long extension cord to another room). If the problem goes away, it is a ground loop problem.

Tell us more about how your DVD player is connected to the TV. Via your Home Theatre Amp? Directly via optical/coax? etc., etc.

My best guess at this point is a ground loop between the DVD Player and your TV. How are your other devices working (like Amp if you have one with video switching)?

If you haven't tried plugging your DVD player directly into the TV (bypassing the HT amp), try that. If you are doing directly into the TV and have a video switching amp, try going into it first, and let it route the signal to the TV.

If you can't tell, I'm trying to get you to isolate the grounds in your system, hoping to show it is a ground loop, then we can figure out where it is coming from.

I just got my HL-R5067w delivered this morning. Man is it huge. When looking at them in the store, they appear so much smaller. This tv rocks and can't wait for prime time TV in High def tonight .

Wait a few days, and it will seem a LOT smaller. I have had my 56" for six days and it already has shrunk about 20% from "Oh My God, HUGE" to "Hmmmm...this looks about right for this size room and my viewing distance."

Funny how that works, although I'm very glad I didn't go 61"!

I bought mine the day after Easter, and I agree, it shrunk a bit after some time. I did the Gamma and index tweak last night. Good results. I noticed a lot of different color settings in the SM. Are there any other tweaks floating around?

Wait a few days, and it will seem a LOT smaller. I have had my 56" for six days and it already has shrunk about 20% from "Oh My God, HUGE" to "Hmmmm...this looks about right for this size room and my viewing distance."

Funny how that works, although I'm very glad I didn't go 61"!

Yeah, I got the 46-inch. At the store I was thinking "I'm getting a small TV." At home I thought "oh no. This thing is too big for this room." Now I think it just about right. I probably couldn't go any bigger unless I re-configured the room. Really happy I didn't do 42-inch though.

When I first saw your post I had a quick thought and then forgot about it. Sorry ... anywho, my thought was that it could well be a ground loop between the two devices causing alternating current to be flowing on the ground connection between the two devices. Hmmmm...some suggestions:

1. As an experiment:

Unplug your DVD player from the AC outlet. Is the AC power plug a 3 prong or two prong plug? If it is a 3 prong plug, try inserting a 3 prong to 2 prong adapter in between the power plug and the AC outlet, thus removing the common ground. Does the scan line disappear? If so, it is a ground loop problem.

2. If the plug is a 2 wire plug, try plugging it into a different outlet. (remote from where you are plugging in the TV. (You can try a long extension cord to another room). If the problem goes away, it is a ground loop problem.

Tell us more about how your DVD player is connected to the TV. Via your Home Theatre Amp? Directly via optical/coax? etc., etc.

My best guess at this point is a ground loop between the DVD Player and your TV. How are your other devices working (like Amp if you have one with video switching)?

If you haven't tried plugging your DVD player directly into the TV (bypassing the HT amp), try that. If you are doing directly into the TV and have a video switching amp, try going into it first, and let it route the signal to the TV.

If you can't tell, I'm trying to get you to isolate the grounds in your system, hoping to show it is a ground loop, then we can figure out where it is coming from.

hasan,

i dont have any home theatre system plugged into this system at the moment. I have a pretty basic setup.

my dvd combo is plugged into the same surge protector as my television. The audio is going straight to the tv through rca cables but the video is through component.

I tried connecting the dvd player through composite also and got the same "band" in the upper half of the screen that gradually moved to the top and then started over at the middle again.

I am going to try another dvd player tonight.

I bought mine the day after Easter, and I agree, it shrunk a bit after some time. I did the Gamma and index tweak last night. Good results. I noticed a lot of different color settings in the SM. Are there any other tweaks floating around?

Yeppers, When I looked at my 56" at BB I thought it's not that big but then when I got it delivered and set up I stood back and said "whoa nelly". But I got it for the price of a 46" so why not. where did you find the gamma setting?

Wait a few days, and it will seem a LOT smaller. I have had my 56" for six days and it already has shrunk about 20% from "Oh My God, HUGE" to "Hmmmm...this looks about right for this size room and my viewing distance."

Funny how that works, although I'm very glad I didn't go 61"!

Yeah - true that. My 56" initial shock value has now shrunk to the same as my old 32" tuber. Soon it will be portable... :rolleyes:

Wait a few days, and it will seem a LOT smaller. I have had my 56" for six days and it already has shrunk about 20% from "Oh My God, HUGE" to "Hmmmm...this looks about right for this size room and my viewing distance."

Funny how that works, although I'm very glad I didn't go 61"!
I couldn't agree with you more. At first, my 50" seemed HUGE, as it was replacing a 27" CRT. Now it seems to fit the room nicely, but I sometimes wonder how a 56" would look. :p

Hoping to get some input, Costco has the HL-R4667W, with the stand, for $1500. Looking at that or for a few hundred $$$ more (around $1900 with the stand), the HL-S4666W. Is the HL-S4666W worth the extra couple hundred $$$s?

hasan,

i dont have any home theatre system plugged into this system at the moment. I have a pretty basic setup.

my dvd combo is plugged into the same surge protector as my television. The audio is going straight to the tv through rca cables but the video is through component.

I tried connecting the dvd player through composite also and got the same "band" in the upper half of the screen that gradually moved to the top and then started over at the middle again.

I am going to try another dvd player tonight.

Good luck! The slowly rolling bands are classic signs of a ground loop or poor power supply filtering. Now, it is possible that the DVD player has a bad bypass or filter capacitor in its power supply, letting AC ripple get into the DC circuitry. That would produce similar problems. Hopefully, the new DVD player will solve the problem. Please let us know how it turns out.

I couldn't agree with you more. At first, my 50" seemed HUGE, as it was replacing a 27" CRT. Now it seems to fit the room nicely, but I sometimes wonder how a 56" would look. :p


Yup i know exactly how you feel.. All my friends with the 50" wish they went up to 56" or 60"... It was nice (still is), but now it fits the room.. I wish it was bigger.. Maybe next time, and this one will get demoted to the bedroom..

I just got my HL-R5667W. I split the cable signal from my provider (Time Warner Austin) with a splitter. One end to my STB (SA8300HD) and the other into the tv's Ant 1 In (Cable). I was expecting to be able to tune in some HD channels through the Ant 1 In (Cable). However, I seem to get only 2 non-HD channels, and the numbering is pretty wierd. I was hoping this would give me some PIP ability with 2 HD signals. Am I really going to need an OTA Antennae?

BTW - The firewire outputs on my STB work. I am sending the video and audio directly to the tv. Some audio/video synch issues, but I think a toslink from the tv to my receiver may be the ticket......

I was just wondering if anyone knew if there are any "real" differences with the HLR5067 and the new HLS 50", or are they only of the cosmetic type?

I was just wondering if anyone knew if there are any "real" differences with the HLR5067 and the new HLS 50", or are they only of the cosmetic type?

Main differences is that the HLS 86 series has 2 HDMI inputs instead of 1, the HLS also does not have any IEEE1394 inputs. The HLR's have cable card and PiP where as the HLS is missing both those features. The HLS also has the option to turn off DNIE in the menu settings where as the HLR's can't turn off DNIE.

Standard cable looks good on my HLR I just received and I have not messed with the factory settings yet and I am currently sitting about 1.5 feet from the tv as I am setting up my new stand for it. I can only imagine how much better it will look when I am at a proper distance and makign improvements over the factory settings. This set kicks major butt.

Well, I got into the SM this evening. I played with Index Delay (mine was set to 45 default) and Gamma (mine was set to 4 default). Using a satellite SD as my source (so I could see a maximum of macro-blocking), I found that both settings were as good as they were going to get as is. I varied both over wide excursions and things would look "different", but not what I would call "better". The display is very good as is, so I think I can just let things set. I must have gotten lucky. I see very little to no MB on my DVDs.

In the SM, I never did see a listing for "hours on the bulb". There was one item for what kind of bulb (Phillips), but I didn't see any selection that would have taken me to the bulb timer.

Someone point me in the right direction, please.

Hoping to get some input, Costco has the HL-R4667W, with the stand, for $1500. Looking at that or for a few hundred $$$ more (around $1900 with the stand), the HL-S4666W. Is the HL-S4666W worth the extra couple hundred $$$s?

The $1500 Costco deal was what I jumped on last week. It was too good, for me to pass on, since I needed the stand too.

Like you, I wonder if I should have waited for a 2006. However, it seems to me, a slightly better color wheel and 1 extra HDMI port is the big benefit on the 2006. It's not like you're stepping up to 1080p or something.

Not knocking the 2006, I'm sure it is amazing and better than the 2005. However, I think going with the 2005 was the right move for me. I can buy an extra HD box now.

In the SM, I never did see a listing for "hours on the bulb". There was one item for what kind of bulb (Phillips), but I didn't see any selection that would have taken me to the bulb timer. Someone point me in the right direction, please.
It's under Option --> Lamp Life

It's under Option --> Lamp Life

Thanks, I'll try it tomorrow after work.

The $1500 Costco deal was what I jumped on last week. It was too good, for me to pass on, since I needed the stand too.

Like you, I wonder if I should have waited for a 2006. However, it seems to me, a slightly better color wheel and 1 extra HDMI port is the big benefit on the 2006. It's not like you're stepping up to 1080p or something.

Not knocking the 2006, I'm sure it is amazing and better than the 2005. However, I think going with the 2005 was the right move for me. I can buy an extra HD box now.

Get the HLR and spend the money you saved on a professional calibration. Chances are you will then have a better picture for the same amount you would have spent on the HLS.

After TVA announced their power buy, I was contemplating about canceling the delivery of my HLR and getting a refund so I could buy a HLS, but after setting up my HLR, I am extremely happy with this tv and glad I kept it.

I bought mine the day after Easter, and I agree, it shrunk a bit after some time. I did the Gamma and index tweak last night. Good results. I noticed a lot of different color settings in the SM. Are there any other tweaks floating around?

Oh...you found the CCA settings. Want to play around with DIY calibration?
I did and I'm very pleased with the results. This is a short thread, but a good one.
Don't left click the "Color Settings" file. Instead, right click and select "Save Target As".
You get an Excel Zip File. I used the CCIR 601-1 table. Have fun!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6164128#post6164128

After TVA announced their power buy, I was contemplating about canceling the delivery of my HLR and getting a refund so I could buy a HLS, but after setting up my HLR, I am extremely happy with this tv and glad I kept it.

Did you end up getting the HLR5067W? Did that thing we talked about via PM's work?

I just got my HL-R5667W. I split the cable signal from my provider (Time Warner Austin) with a splitter. One end to my STB (SA8300HD) and the other into the tv's Ant 1 In (Cable). I was expecting to be able to tune in some HD channels through the Ant 1 In (Cable). However, I seem to get only 2 non-HD channels, and the numbering is pretty wierd. I was hoping this would give me some PIP ability with 2 HD signals. Am I really going to need an OTA Antennae?

BTW - The firewire outputs on my STB work. I am sending the video and audio directly to the tv. Some audio/video synch issues, but I think a toslink from the tv to my receiver may be the ticket......
How many HD channels does your cable provider offer? Some of them may be encrypted and require a STB to view. You might try doing a re-scan to see if you can pick up additional HD channels. You can also manually scroll through or input channels to see if HD channels exist where you might expect to find them.

I don't believe you can view two HD channels using the PIP function, regardless of the sources (OTA vs Ant 1). Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

Did you end up getting the HLR5067W? Did that thing we talked about via PM's work?

Ya, that extra discount coupon worked. The guy gave me the extra discount, he said it didn't ring up, but he manually entered in the discount.

How many HD channels does your cable provider offer? Some of them may be encrypted and require a STB to view. You might try doing a re-scan to see if you can pick up additional HD channels. You can also manually scroll through or input channels to see if HD channels exist where you might expect to find them.



about 15 channels, approx. as some of them go off/on air.

re-scan? How?

manually input? How?

Reading throught the owner manual, not seeing how to pull these off.

about 15 channels, approx. as some of them go off/on air.

re-scan? How?

manually input? How?

Reading throught the owner manual, not seeing how to pull these off.
I'm looking at the Owner's Manual online right now. It describes the Auto Program function and how to manually add/delete channels on pages 32-35.

OK,
Connection question....I read the dvd FAQ/primer, and am really confused. I have an Onkyo DV-CP 701 5 disc with component out. Does component transfer 720p? I beleive this is only a 480 native player anyways, at 60 hz. BUT... since all DVD materials are no more than 480, why should I buy an upconverting player now??? (besides my upgradeitis, which really made me think I was missing something.)
Second. I have my Xbox set to 720 and 1080i, and on my Component2 "info" It never reads the resolution, like it does on my Component1. Is this my Sammy? or am I not putting out a 480/720/or 1080i signal?

Ya, that extra discount coupon worked. The guy gave me the extra discount, he said it didn't ring up, but he manually entered in the discount.

Awesome! If BB runs a no interest/financing for 24 months I'm going right up there and getting it!

OK,
Connection question....I read the dvd FAQ/primer, and am really confused. I have an Onkyo DV-CP 701 5 disc with component out. Does component transfer 720p? I beleive this is only a 480 native player anyways, at 60 hz. BUT... since all DVD materials are no more than 480, why should I buy an upconverting player now??? (besides my upgradeitis, which really made me think I was missing something.)
Second. I have my Xbox set to 720 and 1080i, and on my Component2 "info" It never reads the resolution, like it does on my Component1. Is this my Sammy? or am I not putting out a 480/720/or 1080i signal?

Component cables/interface will transmit the 720p signal, though it sounds like your player is the limiting factor here.
You buy an upconverting player to save the TV from having to convert the signal to 720p. This, in theory, would reduce video lag, since the TV needs to do no converting. Also, if you have a good quality player, it may do a better job than the TV would.
The Xbox question I'm not sure about. When I press "Info", it does not show anything about the resolution. If you go into the Service Menu, it will show you there... For me it says 480p w/ GTA: San Andreas running. I'm not sure what we are actually accomplishing by setting our Xboxes to 720p/1080i in the Xbox config, as I believe it is still putting out a 480p signal that the TV must convert (which is why we experience game response lag on legacy consoles like Xbox & PS2)... Anyone?

I made the mistake of setting up the TV Guide (I use TiVo as my Guide) and now (as the original poster said) everytime I turn on my Samsung I get the TV Guide onscreen display. It is annoying as all get out. Does anyone know how to turn this off so that I can turn on my TV and see live TV right away?

I made the mistake of setting up the TV Guide (I use TiVo as my Guide) and now (as the original poster said) everytime I turn on my Samsung I get the TV Guide onscreen display. It is annoying as all get out. Does anyone know how to turn this off so that I can turn on my TV and see live TV right away?
If I remember right, go into the menu then scroll down to TV Guide and then scroll down to the option of on or off or something to that effect.

If I remember right, go into the menu then scroll down to TV Guide and then scroll down to the option of on or off or something to that effect.


Thanks! I found it. You have to go into the TV Guide onscreen display, select Setup, then Change Default Options, then General Defaults, then it pops up some options on the left and the last one is "Auto guide on/off" Oy, not intuitive, but what did I expect from a TV that forces you to go into a menu system to change PIP input, swap, size, etc.?

Hi guys/gals -

A million thanks for all the great info in this thread. I'm a new owner (not even a week yet) of a 4667 and I think it's marvelous. I might be too uncritical, but outside of the macroblocking issue - which seems very source dependent - my PQ is excellent, even though for the moment I only have non-HD satellite and an older Samsung DVD (and a laserdisc). And all running with S-video through my Onkyo receiver to boot. I've tweaked my settings using THX and the info gleaned from your posts, and it looks waaaay better than OOB. Anyway, a question I haven't seen come up: All the lamp discussions reference either the Philips bulb with a p/n of 00826 or an Osram with p/n 01077. I have neither. The sticker on the left side (not right as Samsung says in the manual) says my bulb is a "BP96-01394A" Interesting choice of number, eh? A Firewire bulb! Anyone else have this bulb/engine in their set? Has it ever been determined if there's any substantial difference between the Philips and the Osram? I presume mine is an Osram. Darn. Thanks in advance for any help/info!

I did the AVIA adjustments yesterday and it confirmed why I like the picture on the 5667W so much. My own adjustments proved out to be very, very close (before doing Avia). The only input I needed adjustment on was the DVD side, where I increased contrast to 75. I have sharpness set to 10 now. Color remains at 50, as does Cool1 for color temperature. (I switched between Normal and Cool1, and observed very little difference, so I let it sit at the default which was Cool1 as it came out of the box.
Hasan,
I found that MOVIE mode tends to look best for me (I think others have said that it's because it uses different/better grayscale settings) -- what are you using, CUSTOM? Also, what is your brightness set to?

Hasan,
I found that MOVIE mode tends to look best for me (I think others have said that it's because it uses different/better grayscale settings) -- what are you using, CUSTOM? Also, what is your brightness set to?

Hi jayfore

I am using "Standard" mode:

Picture, hit Enter on Standard, cursor down to the settings:

Contrast: 75
Brightness: 50
Sharpness: 10

This is for HDMI from my Satellite/OTA Receiver.

I don't change either color saturation or tint, where available. Color defaults to 50. Tint is centered (for progressive inputs, HDMI tint is not available)

I have played with Movie mode (and have also tried adjusting GAMMA and Index Delay).

In my particular set I found no appreciable improvement changing either GAMMA or Index Delay...both factory settings were fine: Index 45, GAMMA 4. These variables are highly "set dependent". Every TV will be dramatically different. If things look bad, go into SM and play.

I played with Movie mode a bit, but found the image I liked the best was Standard with the settings listed above. I'm afraid it would take hours of playing, testing, resetting to arrive at anything that "might" be better than I have now. Sometime when I'm really bored, I may play around a lot more. There are a ton of variables to consider, and to effectively evaluate things would take many hours and careful data collection. I'm just glad I don't have to bother.

Overall, I'm extremely pleased with how the image looks from all my sources:

DVD Hard Disk Recorder (480P)
DVD Player (JVC) (480P)
Internal TV Tuner
Sat Box/OTA Tuner (HDMI)

I've watched (carefully) 3 DVD's. (I'm not a DVD person) and all of them look very good from the standard JVC player:

Lethal Weapon 4
Dune (long verson with Kyle M. and Sting)
Lawrence of Arabia

Very little macroblocking in any of them. I was expecting to see a ton of it in the sand scences of L of A, but it didn't happen.

How to make the display look like crap:

1. View my own burned DVDs from my DVD recorder, having recorded them at the slowest speed. Macroblocking all over the place. Increase recording speed from the slowest to the fastest in steps and the macroblocking decreases dramatically with each increase in recording speed. Move to the hard disk (and not dvd) in the recorder (at highest recording speed) and there is still some macroblocking, but not a lot. Even recording at the highest speed on the hard disk has more defects than the commercial DVDs mentioned above. Put in any of the 3 above commercial titles and there is very little (you really have to hunt for it in just the right scene) macroblocking.

This shows the "source dependency" issue with macroblocking. Garbage in > Garbage Out.

2. Watch NASCAR in highly compressed SD, (but still digital) from the Satellite receiver: unwatchable. I'm betting NFL football will be just as ugly. Fortunately, I watch all my football in HD.

Conclusions:


a. I was lucky, most default settings for my 5667W were very close out of box.
b. My few DVDs look very good on the JVC with similar settings mentioned above.
c. Calibrating with AVIA confirmed point "a." above.
d. This is an HD optimized set but DVD's can look very good, even at 480P

I bought this thing for HD and expected SD to look pretty shabby from compressed sources. I am exquisitely pleased with HD, no matter what the source. SD from Satellite (DirecTV) on CNN, MSNBC and FOX NEWS is surprisingly acceptable. Some other Sat channels look awful, especially Local TV via Satellite. My limited collection of DVDs looks perfectly acceptable, although certainly not HD. Again, they look much better than I had expected.

denvertrakker

I own a HLR4667w MFG date sept. 2005. I had a look at samsungparts(dot)com.
There seems to be four different lamps for this set.
1. BP96-01394A SPECS. L620,OSRAM 120W,E22,50L4
2. BP96-01403A SPECS. L3,OSRAM 120W,E22
3. BP96-00823A SPECS. L3,LAMP SERVICE,OSRAM 120W,E
4. BP96-00826A SPECS. L3,LAMP SERVICE,PHILIPS 120W

Yikes!
My set has the BP96-00823A lamp, and it has a Zeiss Light engine. Not sure if that is a good or bad thing.
Partnumber BP96-00826A works with the Phi;ips light engine.

Have a look at your service menu, the first page should tell you which light engine you have.
My guess is, Samsung are now using osram lamps in their Philips light engines.

Get the HLR and spend the money you saved on a professional calibration. Chances are you will then have a better picture for the same amount you would have spent on the HLS.

I totally agree with you stash64. I got a great deal on my 50" so I had mine professionally calibrated and it made a huge difference in PQ. As an example, I thought my grayscale was pretty much okay. I noticed it seemed to pull green rather strongly and had some noise. My pre-calibrated grayscale was a failing 18.1 Post calibration was 93.7. The gamma settings, index and DNIe of course were properly set or turned off. Then all of the in-depth calibration began. The color fidelity improved and the grayscale helped my blacks tremendously. White looks white with no yellowish cast. Overall, the PQ was improved dramtically.

Jayfore, below are my settings, but they are pretty much useless since my preferred lighting, distance and overall environment are different than yours. And I have the 50".

Contrast 90
Brightness 50
Sharpness 65
Color 50
Tint N/A

Jayfore, below are my settings, but they are pretty much useless since my preferred lighting, distance and overall environment are different than yours. And I have the 50".

Contrast 90
Brightness 50
Sharpness 65
Color 50
Tint N/A

Those are the standard settings directly out of the box.

I have a question about the TV Guide feature. I bought the HLR-4667w about a month ago, using Directv and an OTA antenna. I have tried about 50 times to get the TV guide to work but it never downloads listings. I have tried different zip codes and still nothing. Has anyone else had a problem with this? It's not a huge deal since I've got the guide on the Directv box, but would still like to see how the TV Guide works. Thanks.

I went through the same thing when i got my TV an year back. I had a samsung rep come check it out and he switched it to a few local channels and was trying to find a very thing bar at the very top on local stations.

He explained that usually just one channel (in my case it was NBC) that broadcasted the TV Guide listing along with the channel information. So, the OTA antenna would have to receive a good signal from the station.

I didnt bother trying to change it, but a couple of months back, I changed the position of my antenna and it picks up the signals now. I still dont see a bar at the top, and i dont even get the HD version of NBC OTA. I only get the regular broadcast on the NBC channel. Hope that helps.

I have a question about the TV Guide feature. I bought the HLR-4667w about a month ago, using Directv and an OTA antenna. I have tried about 50 times to get the TV guide to work but it never downloads listings. I have tried different zip codes and still nothing. Has anyone else had a problem with this? It's not a huge deal since I've got the guide on the Directv box, but would still like to see how the TV Guide works. Thanks.

I made the mistake of setting up the TV Guide (I use TiVo as my Guide) and now (as the original poster said) everytime I turn on my Samsung I get the TV Guide onscreen display. It is annoying as all get out. Does anyone know how to turn this off so that I can turn on my TV and see live TV right away?
enter of zip code of 00000 in the tvguide setup dialog boxes. you can get to the setup process again by going into the tvguide mode, get to the choice of something like "system setup" on the "settings" menu.

I have a question about the TV Guide feature. I bought the HLR-4667w about a month ago, using Directv and an OTA antenna. I have tried about 50 times to get the TV guide to work but it never downloads listings. I have tried different zip codes and still nothing. Has anyone else had a problem with this? It's not a huge deal since I've got the guide on the Directv box, but would still like to see how the TV Guide works. Thanks.

I have a similar setup, and after setting up the TV Guide, I got nothing for the first 24 hours. Then it filled in. After I went into the Service Menu and came back out, the TV Guide disappeared. It could be coincidence, or it could be cause effect, who knows. I'll see how soon or if it comes back.

Like you, I turned it on just to see it work. It will be useful to know if going in and out of the SM causes the TV Guide info to be lost.

I've been reading this forum feverishly lately. I swear I saw a posting recently saying that there was a way to enter the SM while the TV was ON, instead of starting off and doing MUTE, 1,8,2 PWR ON in rapid succession.

Now that I go look for it, I can't find it (or perhaps it never existed).

I really have to stop reading (and posting) before I start drooling. :rolleyes:

p.s. tnx for the pointer on options in the SM for bulb time...couldn't see the forest for the trees.

you're not crazy, I just read it yesterday. I think it was adding "power" first to the equation

It was under a message about CCA from Hi-Rez...follow the link and you get this in one of the messages about Calibration

"You can also do it with your TV already turned on.
First make sure that Melody is turned off
Press Power, Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power on the remote
To exit the SM restart the TV (or try Power, Power)"

I haven't confirmed it works yet, but may try it tomorrow. Since my TV Guide showed back up, I can also tell if it gets wiped out by going in and out of the SM.

I'm so glad i didn't hallucinate the entire thing :eek:

you're not crazy, I just read it yesterday. I think it was adding "power" first to the equation

Which...consequently...doesn't work.
Only a service remote can pull off that trick.

Those are the standard settings directly out of the box.

If I am not mistaken, I think I read that most professional calibrations are done almost entirely through the service menu on our Samsung DLPs. If that is the case, the default picture settings could be retained.

Can someone confirm or deny this point ?

Actually, I should be able to confirm or deny it in a few weeks. Eliab of Avical is going to have at my set on May 11.

If I am not mistaken, I think I read that most professional calibrations are done almost entirely through the service menu on our Samsung DLPs. If that is the case, the default picture settings could be retained.

Can someone confirm or deny this point ?

Actually, I should be able to confirm or deny it in a few weeks. Eliab of Avical is going to have at my set on May 11.

You are correct!

You are correct!
That's a plus... Then you don't need to go and reset everything each time you enter the SM for something. It's too bad though, that there's not some way to back up the current settings of the TV. For example, let's say you pay the hundreds of dollars for a professional calibration, and then like one poster here, you need your TV's innards replaced (digital board, I think). Your settings beautifully configured by the professional are now a thing of the past, and you need to pay for another calibration?

Does anyone know what's going on w/ my HLR-5067? It's been perfect for 8 months, and now just as the NFL draft starts the picture goes out. The menu is still showing up and it continually says "Updating Channel List" in the corner.

I turned it on/off a bunch of times, but it wont even show inputs like my HDMI or Component. The weird thing is one time resetting it it said "Updating Cable Card Firmware", I left it up for 15 minutes but nothing is happening. Anyone experience this?

That's a plus... Then you don't need to go and reset everything each time you enter the SM for something. It's too bad though, that there's not some way to back up the current settings of the TV. For example, let's say you pay the hundreds of dollars for a professional calibration, and then like one poster here, you need your TV's innards replaced (digital board, I think). Your settings beautifully configured by the professional are now a thing of the past, and you need to pay for another calibration?

Not if you take digital photos of every menu screen along with some notes.
That should get you back in the same ballpark.

Does anyone know what's going on w/ my HLR-5067? It's been perfect for 8 months, and now just as the NFL draft starts the picture goes out. The menu is still showing up and it continually says "Updating Channel List" in the corner.

I turned it on/off a bunch of times, but it wont even show inputs like my HDMI or Component. The weird thing is one time resetting it it said "Updating Cable Card Firmware", I left it up for 15 minutes but nothing is happening. Anyone experience this?

Don't be turning it off and on any more. You may damage your lamp.

CableCard is and always will be a disaster. It's somewhat similar, but worse than cable service itself. Call them! Get the digital converter if you must keep cable.

Not if you take digital photos of every menu screen along with some notes.
That should get you back in the same ballpark.
Ouch! If that's what it takes to protect my investment though...

Not if you take digital photos of every menu screen along with some notes.
That should get you back in the same ballpark.

I've already taken "before" screen shots of all my SM pages... 13 in total. It only took about half an hour to shoot and then transfer onto my PC. As soon as Eliab is done with the calibration, I will get the camera out again for the "after" shots.

Still, I am also concerned about how the calibration will be affected if I do have to replace some major component on the TV. I wonder if something as simple as lamp replacement can throw off the calibration ? I also wonder how well the Samsung DLPs will hold a calibration ? In other words, does performance change or "degrade" so rapidly that you would need to re-calibrate every year or so ? I guess these are things I will discuss with Eliab in a few weeks.

I've already taken "before" screen shots of all my SM pages... 13 in total. It only took about half an hour to shoot and then transfer onto my PC. As soon as Eliab is done with the calibration, I will get the camera out again for the "after" shots.

Still, I am also concerned about how the calibration will be affected if I do have to replace some major component on the TV. I wonder if something as simple as lamp replacement can throw off the calibration ? I also wonder how well the Samsung DLPs will hold a calibration ? In other words, does performance change or "degrade" so rapidly that you would need to re-calibrate every year or so ? I guess these are things I will discuss with Eliab in a few weeks.
Yes, I wonder about this too. Since it has also been said over and over that each set is different, would getting a new digital board or light engine mean that those same settings will no longer be the best?

Still, I am also concerned about how the calibration will be affected if I do have to replace some major component on the TV. I wonder if something as simple as lamp replacement can throw off the calibration ? I also wonder how well the Samsung DLPs will hold a calibration ? In other words, does performance change or "degrade" so rapidly that you would need to re-calibrate every year or so ? I guess these are things I will discuss with Eliab in a few weeks.

This is also my concern. I calibrated brightness and contrast using DVE in the first week. One month later, I ran DVE again and found that I need to increase the brightness index several steps to maintain the same brightness level. I remember one post mentioned that some coatings on the bulb burn out before the light output becomes stable. I don't know if this is the reason.

Yes, I wonder about this too. Since it has also been said over and over that each set is different, would getting a new digital board or light engine mean that those same settings will no longer be the best?

I think that is an excellent observation, jayfore. It seems to me if you change a major component (not the bulb, as I bet the color temp and spectrum of the lamps are quite good lamp to lamp), your calibration is no longer traceable to the test instruments used for the calibration. The chances of the calibration holding with a major component change seem quite slim.

Is this a problem? It isn't for me. All of my adjustments are in the user section. For those who made changes to Gamma and Index Delay over and above that, but nothing else in the SM, it's a simple matter to recallibrate those two settings, so it's not a problem for them either.

Ignorance may be bliss. Just how good is "good", and just how "great" is "great"? More on this later... :p

If one has the discretionary income to pay $300 to $500 for a calibration (which is only adressing the "back end" of the system (not the devices connected to it, SHOULD THEY CHANGE), then one can pay for as many calibrations as one can afford.

Think of what you are getting into with calibration...it is not a "one time 400 buck investment" scenario. Why?

Forget about calibrating due to changing a major component "inside" the TV. What if you change DVD players? What if you change Satellite receivers? What if you change ANY video source, except the internal tuner of the TV? Guess what: time to recalibrate, folks. Hasn't anyone noticed the implications of having to calibrate each individual input on the TV that a video source is connected to? Do you really think it's ONLY the "internals" of the TV that are "out of whack"? This is neither a reasonable, nor safe assumption. It is the "pairing" of the video source device to the TV input circuitry and that which follows it in the TV that produces the CALIBRATION. Each change in source device requires a new calibration (or at least you are sure to lose a significant portion of the calibration you last paid for) We must also consider possible "ageing" or "drifting" of the calibration, which is another can of worms entirely. (that I'm not going into)

I'm not arguing against calibration, far from it. Too many reasonable people have reported obvious improvement to just dismiss them as the result of cognitive dissonance (I spent the money, therefore the results must be worth it). It must be noted, however, that we have seen NO double-blind studies to confirm the anecdotal reports of vast improvement pre/post calibration.

So where does that leave us? That, of course, depends on who "us" is. (thankyou Mr. Clinton). There is a normal distribution of "us's". Many of the contributors to the forum are not in the "middle" of the normal distribution curve. We are techno-geeks and probably fall well to the side of the curve. These people want the "ultimate" performance (whatever that might be) from their TV...not because it is necessary for their viewing pleasure, but because they are obsessed or just technically fascinated by the device and its capabilities. :rolleyes: (Nothing wrong in that, but it often leads to misperceptions regarding the stellar performance of the TV using nothing more than the standard user settings and watching HD source material).

To put it all in perspective:

IF you calibrate your TV to your source devices, and IF you don't change any major internal TV components, and IF you don't change any of your video source devices and IF there are no ageing issues with both the external components and the TV itself, THEN you have a calibrated TV for your viewing pleasure.

Will this finally give the fortunate individual "video peace"? I doubt it....but I'm not going into the psychology of that now. :D

================================================
For the rest of us:

1. Play with the user adjustments for each input and source.
2. Adjust GAMMA and INDEX DELAY from the Service Menu if you like.
3. Save your money.
4. Enjoy a stunning picture....it was there or within easy reach, from the beginning. Further improvement beyond the simple adjustments noted in "1" and "2" above, are most likely to be incremental and not revolutionary in nature (to the vast majority of the owners of this set).
=============================================

My experience with the 5667W (using AVIA calibration and MY OWN PERSONAL PREFERENCES) was that I needed to adjust several of the user settings for each source device. The most critical settings for me were Contrast (70 to 75) and Sharpness (10 except for 25 on DVD input). I found the defaults of 50 for Color and 50 for Brightness needed no change. Color Temperature of Cool1 (factory default) worked just fine for me.

Changing Gamma and Index Delay did not improve my "video experience". My factory values of 4 and 45, respectively were 'right on" for my viewing pleasure.

ALL OF THESE SETTINGS ARE AMBIENT LIGHT AND TV DEPENDENT (YOUR SET WILL BE DIFFERENT)

Hopefully, this summarizes the "Calibration" issue, pointing out its strengths and weaknesses. Find out where you fit in the normal distribution of TV users, and then spend the money that seems appropriate for your "perceived' viewing pleasure.

Hopefully, this summarizes the "Calibration" issue, pointing out its strengths and weaknesses. Find out where you fit in the normal distribution of TV users, and then spend the money that seems appropriate for your "perceived' viewing pleasure.
As you said, our test group here is not a balanced one. Your everyday TV watcher does not read these forums. It seems that every poster who has commented on the results of their professional calibration has said that it made a huge difference for the better. But, we are all different, and our perceptions will vary. I'm sure that these people were very happy with their results, but like you say, calibration is a perpetually moving target. To pay for it even once bothers me (out of principle), and to have to possibly pay for it more than once is sheer madness. Plus, it's extremely expensive (in my area, $500 for one input, then $50/hr afterward).

Most of my TV's issues are linked to the fact that my main activity is watching DVDs, and these are not at 720/1080 resolution, so many of them look far less than perfect. A professional calibration could help this some, but it would not get rid of the problem, because that problem is not with the TV. Probably the main improvement I could see would be reducing the greenish tint that the TV often displays. That I have not researched at all, and I know there is another thread here about DIY calibration for the HLR series, so maybe I will find an answer there.

This is also my concern. I calibrated brightness and contrast using DVE in the first week. One month later, I ran DVE again and found that I need to increase the brightness index several steps to maintain the same brightness level. I remember one post mentioned that some coatings on the bulb burn out before the light output becomes stable. I don't know if this is the reason.

Did you calibrate a "brand new" set ? If so, that could be your problem. There seems to be a little bit of a "break-in" period for DLPs, and perhaps all display technology. I know that Avical recommends 50-100 hours of use on the TV before calibrating... just to be sure it has settled in.

i am in austin, tx and all of a sudden i cannot pick up ANY OTA HD channels. nothing in my set up has changed and weather conditions are great. if i go into set up and view signal strength, all bars are shown. however if i tune to the channel, it says no signal or weak signal. i rescanned the channels and NO hd channels are showing up; i am getting analog channels however. http://www.austin.tx.us/hdtv/ shows no issues with HD OTA channels. is my tuner broken?

Did you calibrate a "brand new" set ? If so, that could be your problem. There seems to be a little bit of a "break-in" period for DLPs, and perhaps all display technology. I know that Avical recommends 50-100 hours of use on the TV before calibrating... just to be sure it has settled in.

Minimum is 100 hours on the lamp.

Did you calibrate a "brand new" set ? If so, that could be your problem. There seems to be a little bit of a "break-in" period for DLPs, and perhaps all display technology. I know that Avical recommends 50-100 hours of use on the TV before calibrating... just to be sure it has settled in.

Yes. I will run DVE again next month to make sure the bulb has settled in.

Most of my TV's issues are linked to the fact that my main activity is watching DVDs, and these are not at 720/1080 resolution, so many of them look far less than perfect. A professional calibration could help this some, but it would not get rid of the problem, because that problem is not with the TV. Probably the main improvement I could see would be reducing the greenish tint that the TV often displays. That I have not researched at all, and I know there is another thread here about DIY calibration for the HLR series, so maybe I will find an answer there.

jayfore,

If I had DVD viewing as my primary use of this TV, I would be looking at an OPPO up-converting player. I have read a lot of postings about the OPPOs and the comments are quite good. Most report significant improvement and at $199 it's not a horrible investment. Lots of good things about the OPPO, including consistent firmware upgrades and a strong committment to customer service. Take a look at the DVD Player forum, OPPO thread, and you will see what the owners have to say. It may not be night and day, but I will say that if I were a DVD person, I would buy one today, based on what the owners report. Since I watch so few DVDs, it's not worth it to me. Some of this, of course, depends on how much you have invested in your current DVD player and what your HDMI input situation is like (monoprice has cheap rf remote switches that get good reviews).

Just a thought...

jayfore,

If I had DVD viewing as my primary use of this TV, I would be looking at an OPPO up-converting player. I have read a lot of postings about the OPPOs and the comments are quite good. Most report significant improvement and at $199 it's not a horrible investment. Lots of good things about the OPPO, including consistent firmware upgrades and a strong committment to customer service. Take a look at the DVD Player forum, OPPO thread, and you will see what the owners have to say. It may not be night and day, but I will say that if I were a DVD person, I would buy one today, based on what the owners report. Since I watch so few DVDs, it's not worth it to me. Some of this, of course, depends on how much you have invested in your current DVD player and what your HDMI input situation is like (monoprice has cheap rf remote switches that get good reviews).

Just a thought...
Thanks for the suggestion. I've thought about the OPPOs and Samsung HDx50 players that have been praised in this thread. I currently have a Toshiba SD-K850 upconverting player (from Costco, since it can be easily returned if I have a problem in the future), using HDMI. I've been planning to move to either an Oppo or Samsung (probably the Samsung, as it seems there is a hack to allow upconversion over component -- nice to have that flexibility).

Now we have these HD-DVD players coming out (and then Blu-Ray, I guess). I know nothing about them, really, but realize I will most likely want to upgrade to one of those in the next couple of years. So I guess, while they work out all the bugs and the prices of those come down over time, it would be my best bet to pick up one of these other players. That's my plan, anyway.

Why do you mention the switchers, in case I use HDMI for my cable box also? I don't use a cable box at all, so I should be good there for now.

Now we have these HD-DVD players coming out (and then Blu-Ray, I guess). I know nothing about them, really, but realize I will most likely want to upgrade to one of those in the next couple of years. So I guess, while they work out all the bugs and the prices of those come down over time, it would be my best bet to pick up one of these other players. That's my plan, anyway.

Why do you mention the switchers, in case I use HDMI for my cable box also? I don't use a cable box at all, so I should be good there for now.

Good plan (waiting for bugs and prices to settle on the HD DVD player). They will start way high and I'm not a fan of new models of anything. I always buy behind the curve (hence the 5667W). I may be interested in a couple years in the HD DVD, but I'd have to commit to a lot more DVD's in order to take advantage of it.

I mention the switcher because the 5667W has only one HDMI input, and I'm already using it on my Sammy 360 (Sat/OTA) box. So, if I were to take the OPPO plunge, I'd need the switcher, unless I waited for the new model which will do progressive scan upconversion as well as the hdmi upconversion. So far, I just can't get myself motivated. I'd be interested in it from a technology point of view, but my viewing habits just don't justify the investment (even though 199 bucks is a really fine price for what the OPPO offers.)

I continue to read the OPPO forum with interest, if nothing else to see what the installed user base discovers :rolleyes:

Thanks for the suggestion. I've thought about the OPPOs and Samsung HDx50 players that have been praised in this thread. I currently have a Toshiba SD-K850 upconverting player (from Costco, since it can be easily returned if I have a problem in the future), using HDMI. I've been planning to move to either an Oppo or Samsung (probably the Samsung, as it seems there is a hack to allow upconversion over component -- nice to have that flexibility).


Oppo is a very good player, and they do have fantastic customer support... BUT if you are interested in minimizing macro-blocking, you should consider a DVD player "without" the Faroudja chipset. It has been fairly well documented here that the Faroudja chipset actually "enhances" macro-blocking, and my own personal experience confirms this. I had the Oppo player for a couple of weeks and I was having a tough time enjoying movies. Every dark or semi-dark scene had noticable macro-blocking, which included dancing green or purple pixels and lots of clay face artifacts. I switched to a Sony up-converting player, and the frequency and magnitude of macro-blocking is much reduced. I believe Sony uses their own proprietary scaler and de-interlacer. I give the edge to the Oppo player in bright scene, but the Sony is much better for dark scenes.

I think the Oppo player is probably a great choice for a CRT, but not for DLP. I now wonder if the "DVD Benchmark" testing is only done on CRT's ? Seems to me that the macro-blocking problem with the Faroudja chipset would be a big negative on their scorecard if they were using DLPs to judge the performance.

Hello,
I just bought a HL-R5667W. I am using the comcast the HD receiver to view HD channels. While I was watching TNT HD. I used to have black bars on the side while I am viewing 4:3 aspect ratio on my TV. When I switched to 16:9 the picture appeared streched out.
Surprised I looked into the receiver settings (I am using component cables bytheway) and it looked like the component cables are spitting out 1080i. I changed this to 720p and voila! the black bars on the TV are gone. But this time the overall picture quality degraded a lil bit.

I dunno why this happened..Can anyone please tell what are the optimal setting that will give the best picture..pls..pls..pls..

Here are my settings:
Samsung TV:
Picture setting: 16:9

Receiver Setting:
TV Type: 16:9
YPbPr : 720p
4:3 Override: OFF

Thanks in advance for the excellent work

Oppo is a very good player, and they do have fantastic customer support... BUT if you are interested in minimizing macro-blocking, you should consider a DVD player "without" the Faroudja chipset. It has been fairly well documented here that the Faroudja chipset actually "enhances" macro-blocking, and my own personal experience confirms this. I had the Oppo player for a couple of weeks and I was having a tough time enjoying movies. Every dark or semi-dark scene had noticable macro-blocking, which included dancing green or purple pixels and lots of clay face artifacts. I switched to a Sony up-converting player, and the frequency and magnitude of macro-blocking is much reduced. I believe Sony uses their own proprietary scaler and de-interlacer. I give the edge to the Oppo player in bright scene, but the Sony is much better for dark scenes.
How does one find out which chipset a DVD player has? I am most interested in the Samsung players, I think. Also, which model Sony do you have? Thanks!

How does one find out which chipset a DVD player has? I am most interested in the Samsung players, I think. Also, which model Sony do you have? Thanks!

If you go to samsung's website most of their products have the manual available for download - that should have all the technical specs listed inside... ?

I used vanns.com to look at high end DVD players as they list the detailed specs in an easy to read and compare format... good luck.

Is the OPPO a good match to the Sammy? I am getting conflicting reports. Anyone successfully using the OPPO 971 with the Samsung series of this forum?

Generally the OPPO is getting rave reviews, but I have seen some "cautions" about using it with DLPs and specifically the HL-Rs like mine. One (and only one) said the OPPO was an invitation to macroblocking hell. Any other opinions or options for an upconverting dvd player?

I just spoke to a third tier tech at Samsung today, and he readily acknowledged that they have a problem with my model (HLR-4667W), or perhaps it is all recent production "R" models. The degree of macro-blocking from DVD playback is not normal. He did not have a lot of detail at this time because it seems Samsung is still working on a solution, but he did mention that he was suppose to attend an information meeting soon on this issue. He also hinted that a firmware update might be a possible fix.

I showed the problem to a friend using both my Oppo and Denon DVD players today, and he was amazed at how "bad" it looked. I played the first half hour or so of Goblet of Fire, and the problem was evident in even some brighter scenes. My friend has only a 27" SD set, and he thought the movie looked better on his TV. I also tried switching up the outputs on the Oppo and Denon (from 480i to 480p to 720p) and the macro-blocking was very bad in all cases, but perhaps a little worse with the 720p up-conversion.

I think the fact that the macro-blocking problem is severe with both players and with different outputs tends to point the finger at the television, particularly since 480i from the Denon did not in any way eliminate the blockiness. With progressive turned off on the Denon, there should have been no or very minimal processing by the Denon... in other words, a pure DVD signal. I think this eliminates the possibility that the Faroudja chipset is the problem, even though both of my DVD players and the Samsung set use Faroudja for scaling and/or de-interlacing.

Anyway, I am still waiting for a vist from a service tech. I will report back any findings, hopefully by next week.
I know you had the service tech come out and adjust things... But you said it seems to have worsened the macroblocking issue. I was wondering, have you heard any more from Samsung on this? If not, were you led to believe you would? The 3rd-level tech made it seem as though they knew of this problem and were going to investigate a fix... That would be awesome.

I wonder if the new models suffer from the same problem(s)?

D* installer came out today and replaced my 3lnb dish with a 5lnb. Also swapped out my H20 (600) with another H20 (600).

Still having a small problem: My miniguide is shifted to the right. Meaning, it doesn't go all the way across the screen. It's like just the miniguide is shifted, but not the picture. This happened to my other H20 a few weeks ago. Anyone have any insight? H20 issue? Issue with my Samsung DLP (HLR4667W)?

Thanks!
Rob

(Just spoke with Directv and the technician went to their H20 (with a Samsung tv) and the mini-guide was doing the exact same thing. Guess it's something with the H20, sorry.)

Does the HLR4667W support multichannel audio from the HDMI input?

Ok,
I have been emailing Ameriwood, about the "matching stand/floating screen issue". They are telling me they do not have a fix, nor have they ever heard of a problem with the 46 inch models...
Has anyone ever received this part for the 46 in?
My set does not even touch the stand in the center section. I cant imagine that this will not cause a problem down the road.

After researching the floating screen issue with the matching stand model number TR46X3, I am wondering if I should just return my stand as it is still in the box and was only purchased a week ago. Do you think they included the permanent fix insdide the box of the stand I purchased, or would I still need to contact Ameriwood for this fix? Should I return this stand and buy a different one instead?

Also does anyone have a picture of what the permanent fix is. I would like to see what these new pieces look like.

Ok,
I have been emailing Ameriwood, about the "matching stand/floating screen issue". They are telling me they do not have a fix, nor have they ever heard of a problem with the 46 inch models...
Has anyone ever received this part for the 46 in?
My set does not even touch the stand in the center section. I cant imagine that this will not cause a problem down the road.

Not too familiar on this stand as I havn't opened up mine yet, but when you expand the stand to fit the 50 or 56" sets, is there a gap in the middle section? And if there is a gap, is that what is considered the lack of support for the front of the tv? If that is the case, then that might be why there is no needed fix for the 46" sets as the stand would not have a gap when it is set for that size tv, although I could be completely wrong here as I have not even opened the box to me stand because I might return it after reading these issues on it.

Not too familiar on this stand as I havn't opened up mine yet, but when you expand the stand to fit the 50 or 56" sets, is there a gap in the middle section? And if there is a gap, is that what is considered the lack of support for the front of the tv? If that is the case, then that might be why there is no needed fix for the 46" sets as the stand would not have a gap when it is set for that size tv, although I could be completely wrong here as I have not even opened the box to me stand because I might return it after reading these issues on it.
I say return it. There are plenty of problem-free substitutes out there that look cooler.

The fix is a new top section for the 50 inch and 56 inch... They had originally provided blocks to shore up the TV until they could come up with a fix. They had initially sent me a revised top for the 50 inch, but after further communication with them, I had stated that they misinterpreted my email. She said she had understood my email but that there was no repair for the 46.
It is a false statement that there is no gap on the 46, as I can attest. you are correct, that there is no support for the front, but that is the design. It is notched back in a triangle shape.
My email to them today was to open the door to a return, as the stand is a couple weeks old, and the box has gone to the dump. I didn't think Best Buy would take it back.

Does the new top section fix the problems at all, or would there still be support problems even after receiving the new top.

I say return it. There are plenty of problem-free substitutes out there that look cooler.

What stand would you recommend to replace the ameriwood stand. How about http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7708359&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03116&id=1138086034501.

Does the new top section fix the problems at all, or would there still be support problems even after receiving the new top.
As I understand it... The fix ix fixed,
That next stand is very nice indeed.

The fix is a new top section for the 50 inch and 56 inch... They had originally provided blocks to shore up the TV until they could come up with a fix. They had initially sent me a revised top for the 50 inch, but after further communication with them, I had stated that they misinterpreted my email. She said she had understood my email but that there was no repair for the 46.
It is a false statement that there is no gap on the 46, as I can attest. you are correct, that there is no support for the front, but that is the design. It is notched back in a triangle shape.
My email to them today was to open the door to a return, as the stand is a couple weeks old, and the box has gone to the dump. I didn't think Best Buy would take it back.

Kevin,

Is the revised top for 50" TV in one sigle piece or three pieces? I have requested this part from Ameriwood but still waiting. As I believe, a one-design-for-three concept is a total failure. If the revised top is still not in one solid piece and does not support the whole bottom part, it will still cause the sagging problem.

So I still don't understand about the 46-inch? There is no problem with the stand, if you're using a 46-inch TV on it?

So I still don't understand about the 46-inch? There is no problem with the stand, if you're using a 46-inch TV on it?

There is problem with 46 inch stand actually. The center part of the TV bottom is not well supported no matter what the TV size is.

What stand would you recommend to replace the ameriwood stand. How about http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7708359&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03116&id=1138086034501.
Do a search in this thread... There are a few models mentioned over and over that people really like as a substitute for this flawed stand. It's an issue that's been discussed for a LONG time. Quite a few people got the (temporary fix) spacers, and then some eventually got the replacement tops. I don't think any of those were for the 46" though, and if you guys are saying that it still has this gap, why take the chance, just dump the thing.

Is the revised top for 50" TV in one sigle piece or three pieces?
Elaine at Ameriwood has sent 3 separate shipments. Two were shipped and confirmed, one is backordered from Ameriwood, with no scheduled delivery date... But they are for the 50 inch. (which does absolutely no good in my case.)

I own the HLR6167W, and have recently hooked up my 6.1 surround up to an HK AVR 335 Receiver. The problem I'm having is when I'm using the built-in ATSC Tuner. Since the video is being processed directly by the TV set, and the Audio portion is going to my receiver, I'm having a slight Lip Synch issue. The Video is a split second before the actual audio, so any audio delay will not work for me in this case. Any hidden settings within the Samsung DLP that can delay the video or any way to fix this problem? Thank you in advance.

Still, I am also concerned about how the calibration will be affected if I do have to replace some major component on the TV. I wonder if something as simple as lamp replacement can throw off the calibration ? I also wonder how well the Samsung DLPs will hold a calibration ? In other words, does performance change or "degrade" so rapidly that you would need to re-calibrate every year or so ? I guess these are things I will discuss with Eliab in a few weeks.

You raise excellent questions/concerns. First and foremost, it's never a bad idea to take digital photographs of each page of the service menu altered during the calibration procedure. That way, if your DMD module or light engine were to get replaced, reentering the calibrated settings would be relatively simple.

Regarding re-calibration, the rule of thumb is every 1000 hours of viewing if one is wanting to sustain the calibrated quality of their display. However, not every display ages similarly. Consequently, some will require retuning in 6 months whereas others will still look excellent after two years. But what makes it a little difficult to gauge is that our eyes tend to follow the drift. As a result, we might think that our display still looks good when in fact it has drifted considerably over time. I, as well as most ISF technicians, offer this service at a discounted rate. Many of my clients will coordinate getting me back with the purchase of a new DVD player, replacing a bulb, moving into a new house, etc.

What you can expect is for the spectral response of your display's bulb to change over time. This may require that you readjust the brightness and/or contrast with the aid of DVE. But this is a relatively simple task and won't take more than a few minutes. I've written an article for American Wired in my monthly "Viewing Angle" column simply titled "Digital Video Essentials" that can assist you with this. Eventually, however, you will probably want the display re-calibrated (especially when the bulb gets replaced).

I calibrated brightness and contrast using DVE in the first week. One month later, I ran DVE again and found that I need to increase the brightness index several steps to maintain the same brightness level.

This is perfectly normal as the bulb "breaks-in." I calibrated my 5078 immediately after unpacking it and had to readjust it several times during the first month!

It seems to me if you change a major component (not the bulb, as I bet the color temp and spectrum of the lamps are quite good lamp to lamp), your calibration is no longer traceable to the test instruments used for the calibration. The chances of the calibration holding with a major component change seem quite slim.

Actually, the bulbs can be quite different in their luminance. However, once all the calibrated values are reentered and a basic brightness/contrast adjustment is performed, you can be pretty close to the calibrated state.

Ignorance may be bliss. Just how good is "good", and just how "great" is "great"

Indeed.. :) One would have to look at a properly calibrated Samsung DLP display with a high quality source (DVD, HD or better yet, HD-DVD) to realize just how great these displays are capable of looking. These are the only displays in existence (to the best of my knowledge) that can actually abide by not one but TWO different system standards. This is a HUGE leap forward and one that can only be appreciated by those that have seen the difference (i.e., had their displays calibrated). So yes, in this case, ignorance is most definitely bliss.

Forget about calibrating due to changing a major component "inside" the TV. What if you change DVD players? What if you change Satellite receivers? What if you change ANY video source, except the internal tuner of the TV? Guess what: time to recalibrate, folks.

While there are some cases where this might be true, the majority of the time, a re-calibration will not be in order. All that would need to be done is to perform a basic setup of the DVD player in question and perhaps a very quick brightness and contrast check. For a STB, the setup would be even easier. The one exception might be if you switched from composite to component or component to DVI/HDMI. But even then, the procedure is often simpler than people think. Furthermore, any reputable ISF technician would be more than willing to assist their client with the setup procedure either over the phone or via e-mail.

Hasn't anyone noticed the implications of having to calibrate each individual input on the TV that a video source is connected to?

Actually, it really depends on the display. Some are input specific. Others are scan rate specific. And yet others can also be input type specific.

Do you really think it's ONLY the "internals" of the TV that are "out of whack"? This is neither a reasonable, nor safe assumption. It is the "pairing" of the video source device to the TV input circuitry and that which follows it in the TV that produces the CALIBRATION. Each change in source device requires a new calibration (or at least you are sure to lose a significant portion of the calibration you last paid for)

For the most part - yes. There are a slew of adjustments on Samsung DLPs that impact ALL sources such as horizontal and vertical positioning, index delay, gamma, actuator gain, SMPTE "C" and SMPTE "HD" coordinates, 5400k setting, ring-focus, and optics cleaning. Besides a STB's initial settings (which are exceedingly easy) that input is typically adjusted via a test tone generator. And so whatever settings are arrived at for that source will likely apply to another STB - providing that it too has been set-up within it's setup menu. The same holds true with the bulk of DVD players with the possible addition of a basic brightness/contrast adjustment. So if by "each change in source device requires a new calibration" you mean a very basic setup. Then I agree with you. But you will most certainly not loose a significant portion of the calibration!

We must also consider possible "ageing" or "drifting" of the calibration, which is another can of worms entirely. (that I'm not going into)

Yes, I agree. However, please explain why the occasional tune-up fee of a display be a deterrent for anyone wanting to achieve maximum picture fidelity? Most of my clients are supremely passionate about their home theaters having invested a great deal of time and money assembling it. For a nominal fee, they have the satisfaction of knowing that their display is running at peak performance and within it's linear operating range year after year. Would anyone think it strange to pay to have their $80,000.00 9' Bösendorfer grand piano or used $200.00 Spinet tuned annually? Or think it odd that their $450,000.00 Benz McLaren or a used $1,500.00 Honda Civic will need an oil change from time to time? Of course not.

I'm not arguing against calibration, far from it. Too many reasonable people have reported obvious improvement to just dismiss them as the result of cognitive dissonance (I spent the money, therefore the results must be worth it). It must be noted, however, that we have seen NO double-blind studies to confirm the anecdotal reports of vast improvement pre/post calibration.

Actually, and with all due respect, to me your position appears quite against calibration rather than for it even though you yourself have actually never witnessed a display that abides by system standards.

IF you calibrate your TV to your source devices, and IF you don't change any major internal TV components, and IF you don't change any of your video source devices and IF there are no ageing issues with both the external components and the TV itself, THEN you have a calibrated TV for your viewing pleasure.

Case in point. In other words, never get your TV calibrated because at the very least, your display will age. This is an extremely irresponsible thing to say considering that, A) You really are not aware of what takes place during a calibration procedure, B) You also are not familiar with the full calibration procedure for a Samsung display and C) You have never witnessed a display that has been calibrated to professional standards and therefore have no clue as to how things really ought to appear on a display.

Will this finally give the fortunate individual "video peace"? I doubt it....but I'm not going into the psychology of that now.

I'm not sure what you mean by "video peace." Personally, I'm always looking to raise the bar with my system! But if by "video peace" you mean the knowledge of knowing that they're viewing material on their displays that is a much closer representation of the shades and colors that their director's wanted their films to be enjoyed in - then perhaps they have found it... :)

1. Play with the user adjustments for each input and source.
2. Adjust GAMMA and INDEX DELAY from the Service Menu if you like.
3. Save your money.
4. Enjoy a stunning picture....it was there or within easy reach, from the beginning. Further improvement beyond the simple adjustments noted in "1" and "2" above, are most likely to be incremental and not revolutionary in nature (to the vast majority of the owners of this set).

Play with the user adjustments? What do you mean? How is gamma and index delay adjusted? What do they do? What should I be looking for? I want to attain 100% value from my investment. Will I be getting that by heading your advice? Stunning picture? What standard are you using as a reference to make such a statement? Also, what kind of field experience have you had to support that any adjustments performed above your "suggestions" will be incremental and not revolutionary in nature to the vast owners of this set. I myself have performed well over 100 Samsung calibrations in the last year alone. My experience has been the exact opposite.

Hopefully, this summarizes the "Calibration" issue, pointing out its strengths and weaknesses. Find out where you fit in the normal distribution of TV users, and then spend the money that seems appropriate for your "perceived' viewing pleasure.

I would respectfully disagree with you. The only thing that has been summarized rather eloquently is that you really need to view a properly calibrated Samsung display before attempting another summarization!

Regards,

Eliab

There is problem with 46 inch stand actually. The center part of the TV bottom is not well supported no matter what the TV size is.

And do they have a fix for this one? Thanks!

And do they have a fix for this one? Thanks!

Apparently ameriwood, who is the stand manufacturer, has a fix for this stand. I am hearing that they send you new pieces for the top of the stand, but I am not sure how good of a job these piece/s fix the problem.

It would be advisable to take what I said at face value. I have no agenda. Weighing the pro's and cons and your particular needs, a calibration may or may not be warranted. If one has the money and the visual discernment then it's a no brainer.

Please don't read in to my postings what I didn't say. I explicitly stated that many have gotten excellent improvements from calibration. All the other variables need to be considered, as well. The pro-calibration side of the matter is simple. The caveats associated with calibration are not, and that is what I was trying to get it. If that made the post seem weighted toward not calibrating, that was not my intent. My intent was to explore the issues surrounding calibration.

Life is about making informed choices. If one does not consider all the potential costs and benefits, as well as many of the variables I pointed out, then the decision could hardly be called informed. Further, one does not have to jump off a bridge to discover it hurts when one hits the ground. The point being, I stipulated that calibration can provide very impressive results. I even dismissed out of hand the cognitive dissonance issue. There are, however, many other things to consider. Why is that not good enough for you?

Play = manipulate/adjust. Change the settings readily available to you to get what you see as the best picture. See if that satisfies your viewing situatation. Sheesh, do we really need to parse words that carefully? Did anyone really not understand the connotation of "play" in the context I used it? Pick another nit, please.

You seem to be looking for an argument. I'm not. End of thread for me, feel free to have the last word. Hopefully, it will lack the sarcasm in your initial response. It really is amazing what lack of manners and civility one encounters when the speaker is behind a keyboard.

I own the HLR6167W, and have recently hooked up my 6.1 surround up to an HK AVR 335 Receiver. The problem I'm having is when I'm using the built-in ATSC Tuner. Since the video is being processed directly by the TV set, and the Audio portion is going to my receiver, I'm having a slight Lip Synch issue. The Video is a split second before the actual audio, so any audio delay will not work for me in this case. Any hidden settings within the Samsung DLP that can delay the video or any way to fix this problem? Thank you in advance.
Yes, with this set you will often have video lag issues. If you search this thread you will see all kinds of posts on it. Solutions are getting a receiver w/ audio delay function or buying a standalone audio delay device.

End of thread for me, feel free to have the last word.
I hope you don't mean that you will not post here on our HLR thread again Hasan. I , for one, have been re-reading and going into old pages of this thread to learn all I can, (before and after my purchase), and have found many of your postings very valuable.
I am in a boat that, while I have the enthusiasm and desire for all I can get out of my electronic purchases, don't think I would pay the ammount that ISF techs need for calibration. I would love to have it done, don't get me wrong. I would love to severely minimize or eliminate my macroblocking. (If possible) But there are many more things I could do with 4-5-or 600 bucks.
So far it is not such a huge disappointment that it ruins my tv experience. I even went into the SM to adjust the Index delay per some posts here, but got so scared at what I had seen in there, I about SH!t myself.
Eliab, Not to take anything away from your business either...It is just not for me at this time. I would even be interested in learning ISF for myself. If only to make the most out of my Sammy for my own enjoyment. I have also found many of your posts informative. (Albeit over my head at some points.)

Ok. I have a question. I have a HLR4667W. I'm pretty happy with it.

However, I could go to the store now and exchange it, and get $100 back in my pocket (for the HLS4667W). Have any of you compared the 2005 & 2006 sets? Would it definitely be an upgrade to the HLS?

What about the fact the 2006 doesn't have Firewire? Could that be a hindrance in the future? Is the Firewire on my 2005 even active?

Yes, I know about the HDMI input 2, which would be nice for me actually. However, if that is the only benefit, I think I'll keep what I have. However, if the picture is substantially better I might should upgrade? I can't compare them myself.

Thanks.

Hasan: I'm confused. You absolutely don't seem like the type to get your panties in a wedge over having a professional weigh in with genuine value added information. The guy just set the record straight and we are all the better for it. I'm delighted he weighed in and you haven't lost face or anything so feel free to post in the future. This is supposed to be an information exchange and it just means we are better informed -- since your posting illicited some comment from someone in the position to get us all closer to making informed decisions on getting the most out of these 720p sets!! I would say that you should feel good about it. I for one get no charge out of trying to be the be all and end all in these matters, since this technology is evolving even as we speak and there is plenty of experience to be shared. I appreciate everyone posting freely and also certain we all benefit.

However, I could go to the store now and exchange it, and get $100 back in my pocket (for the HLS4667W).
Wow, really?
Who's offering that?

Wow, really?
Who's offering that?
Yeah, I was wondering that too! The 2006 models have a better/faster color wheel too, no? This is another thing I was curious about... Just how different are the 2006 from 2005 models. Visually, looks like they did away with the "floating screen" design -- perhaps because it did not float so well after all, especially with the stand that was made for it? ;)

Yeah, I was wondering that too! The 2006 models have a better/faster color wheel too, no? This is another thing I was curious about... Just how different are the 2006 from 2005 models. Visually, looks like they did away with the "floating screen" design -- perhaps because it did not float so well after all, especially with the stand that was made for it? ;)


Yeah, I just really wish I myself could compare the two (2005 & 2006) side by side, or could find a good review. I need to decide fast, what I want to do.

The 46-inch which is what I'm dealing with seems to still have the floating screen.

Yeah, I just really wish I myself could compare the two (2005 & 2006) side by side, or could find a good review. I need to decide fast, what I want to do.

The 46-inch which is what I'm dealing with seems to still have the floating screen.

Oh, OK, I saw a Samsung today at Costco where the screen was all one piece, not floating above the speakers. I figured that was the new design. I thought there was a negative, limitation of some kind, in the 2006 models -- I forget what though. It's in this thread somewhere. Does it not have an optical out (not that it is needed anyway, since it does not pass 5.1)? I think that might be what I'm remembering. Would have to get hold of the technical manual of the new one (or have someone that knows pipe in here) in order to know for sure.

Oh, OK, I saw a Samsung today at Costco where the screen was all one piece, not floating above the speakers. I figured that was the new design. I thought there was a negative, limitation of some kind, in the 2006 models -- I forget what though. It's in this thread somewhere. Does it not have an optical out (not that it is needed anyway, since it does not pass 5.1)? I think that might be what I'm remembering. Would have to get hold of the technical manual of the new one (or have someone that knows pipe in here) in order to know for sure.

I'm not sure about the audio. I don't worry about that, for as you say, it won't pass 5.1 anyway. The 2006 model has less output speakers, but that doesn't really matter, with a surround system. Then there is the loss of the 2 firewire I have on my 2005 model, but will the firewire ever have a use?

I think the ports might be a wash, since you lose some with the 2006, but gain the extra HDMI.

Puts it really down to the picture quality, but I have no idea how to compare it. Same contrast. Faster color-wheel on the 2006, but how much does that improve picture quality? I don't see rainbows.

Thanks.

Oh, OK, I saw a Samsung today at Costco where the screen was all one piece, not floating above the speakers. I figured that was the new design. I thought there was a negative, limitation of some kind, in the 2006 models -- I forget what though. It's in this thread somewhere. Does it not have an optical out (not that it is needed anyway, since it does not pass 5.1)? I think that might be what I'm remembering. Would have to get hold of the technical manual of the new one (or have someone that knows pipe in here) in order to know for sure.

Actually the optical output on an HLR renders DD5.1 signal when the HD sources are decoded by the TV's integrated tuner. Getting surround sound from OTA HD programs definitely needs a digital output from the TV.

The 2006 model has less output speakers, but that doesn't really matter, with a surround system. Then there is the loss of the 2 firewire I have on my 2005 model, but will the firewire ever have a use?
Ahh, that must be it... No firewire. Rings a bell for sure. I know I will most likely never use it, but figure the more ports the better. Yeah, this would probably not factor into my decision at all.

Actually the optical output on an HLR renders DD5.1 signal when the HD sources are decoded by the TV's integrated tuner.
Sorry, yes, true... But since my current receiver only has one optical input (used for Xbox, and digital coax used for DVD), and I am still working on my OTA antenna, this has not yet become and issue for me, and I always forget to factor it into the equation.

So, ayrton...
the question of who is offering the 100 bucks has still not been answered.
Is it over and above what you paid? Or the current value?
Are they asking for your receipt?

hasan,

Your posting was in fact slanted heavily towards not getting a professional calibration - which is perfectly okay. However, if you're going to have such strong opinions and have no compunctions whatsoever about stating them publicly, you shouldn't take it to heart when someone chimes in and challenges your remarks.

I happen to calibrate display devices for a living. I've been doing so for more than nine years of which the last five have been on a full-time basis. While I have and continue to work on most analogue and digital displays, Samsung DLPs are my current speciality. Many of your statements, if left unchallenged, could have dissuaded a forum member from seeking a professional ISF calibration. While I didn't disagree with all of your remarks, a number of them were incorrect. Considering my area of expertise, I felt compelled to clarify some of your misconceptions.

I don't believe that either one of us has an agenda or is looking to bicker. But there's absolutely nothing wrong with presenting our different views in a clear and respectful manner. That's what forums are for.. :) You're suggestion of playing with the controls and adjusting gamma and index without offering a means to accurately do so offers no real solution to anyone. An argument might even be made that it stupefies the act of video calibration.

You seem to be looking for an argument. I'm not. End of thread for me, feel free to have the last word. Hopefully, it will lack the sarcasm in your initial response. It really is amazing what lack of manners and civility one encounters when the speaker is behind a keyboard.
I will be more than happy to offer you and the members of this forum my free professional observations in regards to Samsung DLP calibrations. On any given week, I work about 80 hours. Consequently, I haven't been able to post as frequently as I'd like to. I will make an effort to change that. But honestly, I'm not going to work 14 hours a day to get on line and have someone say that "I'm lacking manners and behaving in an uncivil manner" because I pointed out the errors in their post. Frankly, there are too many other sections of this and other forums where people appreciate my input.

Regards,

Eliab

So, ayrton...
the question of who is offering the 100 bucks has still not been answered.
Is it over and above what you paid? Or the current value?
Are they asking for your receipt?

It's just a smallish retailer. They actually have to order me the 2006, which is why I can't compare it visually. It is just now they have the 2006 priced $100 less than my 2005 a couple weeks ago, and they allow returns.

Yes, I'll need my receipt, but that is no problem. I mean, it was just a couple weeks ago I got it.

I don't think I'll ever figure out what I should do though. I wish I could find some reviews directly comparing the HLR to HLS. I doubt any exist though.

I had been on the HLS thread after we discussed this... and there are a few differences.
There is a different color wheel (faster), elimination of firewire ports, ability to turn off DNIE,
link to photo, much nicer IMHO... (http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/DLPTV/files/hls5088_final.pdf)

I remember Samsung advertised its new DLP TV in this years CES show. It was said that the new model utilizes three LED bulbs so removes the need for color wheel. The benefits are longevity of bulb life and total elimination of rainbow effect. It was also said the new model would be on the market in April. Anybody has seen it?

I will be more than happy to offer you and the members of this forum my free professional observations in regards to Samsung DLP calibrations.

Eliab

For those of us who shot our wad on the equipment, several hundred dollars for a calibration is a lot of money for an uncertain gain.

Sansung (like all other manufacturers) chooses to grossly mis-calibrate the units hoping to sell more to the rich, blind or visually illiterate, when they could garner a reputation for high quality just by using one of their presets (the default would even be OK) for the showroom settings and another preset for "visually optimum for those who care".

My personal reluctance to shell out for a calibration is from:
(a) I can't afford it,
(b) I don't know if it will really help, and how much,
(c) being in Raleigh NC, and unable so far to find any professional calibrator with credible references (and no, I'm not ready to pay your trave expenses from NJ),
(d) it's silly to pay for a calibration until I'm quite sure that I've optimized it as much as possible myself, not with random changes, but with carefully, informed adjustments. This forum has been helpful to that end, but Samsung certainly has not (I even shelled out for the service manual which was a total waste of $30), and
(e) I can think of no other activity, not even computers, where it is a given that if you care about your multi-thousand dollar investment, you must shell out hundreds of dollars more because the manufacturer intentionally and knowingly sub-optimimizes their product.

Speaking for myself (and, I expect, many others on this forum) who have an agenda--getting the most out of our investment, I'd like to hear anything you're willing to share about
(a) how to get the most of of a Samsung DLP and
(b) what additional gain there is to having a professional calibration and under what circumstances.

dps-raleigh,

I agree with just about every point that you've stated. $4-500.00 for a professional ISF calibration is is a lot of money for the majority of people! Considering that most - including home theater enthusiasts - have never actually seen a properly calibrated display, the decision to opt for such a service becomes even more difficult because of the uncertainty of what will be gained as you mentioned.

Sansung (like all other manufacturers) chooses to grossly mis-calibrate the units hoping to sell more to the rich, blind or visually illiterate, when they could garner a reputation for high quality just by using one of their presets (the default would even be OK) for the showroom settings and another preset for "visually optimum for those who care".
Yes that's correct. But it's also not that simple either. Displays need to break-in a bit. In the case of units that have focus, it can shift during the transporting and breaking-in process. The associated equipment connected to the display would also need to be set-up properly. And then the display and equipment would need to be calibrated together as a system. The ambient store lighting will also have a huge impact on the picture quality. And so unless the display is located in a room where the light can be significantly lowered, the display's contrast ratio will be greatly limited, the colors will be washed out, shadow detail will be difficult to perceive, etc. So it's kind of a catch 22 situation.

Having said that, I think that every store should have at least ONE display located in an area where the majority of the stray light hitting the screen can be controlled. It would be independent from the rest of the store having it's own DVD/Satellite, etc. And of course, it would be calibrated as close to system standards as can be had on the display device and associated equipment. Then, it should be clearly advertised that the system has been calibrated. The manufacturer and the store could then offer a professional in-home setup and calibration for an added fee. At least this way the public would know up front that such a service even exists.

My personal reluctance to shell out for a calibration is from:
(a) I can't afford it
I hear ya! Again, it's not an inexpensive proposition for many people.

(b) I don't know if it will really help, and how much
The merits of a professional ISF calibration are extremely difficult to quantify in terms of how much of a difference you will see. Personally, I never underestimate a person's ability to see or not see something that I can or can't. The bottom line is that some people will appreciate the calibrated state of a TV more than others.

(c) being in Raleigh NC, and unable so far to find any professional calibrator with credible references (and no, I'm not ready to pay your travel expenses from NJ)
There are a number of other credible ISF technicians that venture to you neck of the woods... :) However, most will likely ask for a $50-75.00 traveling fee to help cover the cost of their gas, tolls, hotel, flight, etc.

(d) it's silly to pay for a calibration until I'm quite sure that I've optimized it as much as possible myself, not with random changes, but with carefully, informed adjustments. This forum has been helpful to that end, but Samsung certainly has not (I even shelled out for the service manual which was a total waste of $30)
Some people simply don't have the time or would rather have an ISF technician calibrated their system from the get go. But If you do have the time and are willing to take a stab at it, then by all means go for it! In fact, I wrote an article with David Abrams on performing a user-level calibration with DVE (Digital Video Essentials) for our monthly American Wired (http://americanwired.com/video/calibration3.html) column that may perhaps assist you with this process.

(e) I can think of no other activity, not even computers, where it is a given that if you care about your multi-thousand dollar investment, you must shell out hundreds of dollars more because the manufacturer intentionally and knowingly sub-optimimizes their product.
I don't know. Many of my clients are perpetually tweaking and upgrading their computers to attain every ounce of performance from them and to keep up with the latest technologies. People spend many thousands of dollars customizing their cars to handle better. World class recording studios spend huge sums of money to ensure that the music coming out of their expensive monitors is not being influenced by the acoustics of the room even though the speakers themselves were marketed as having a flat frequency response. But that aside, many people simply enjoy the process of elevating the performance of their "equipment" be it their home theater, motorcycle, musical instrument, etc.

Speaking for myself (and, I expect, many others on this forum) who have an agenda--getting the most out of our investment, I'd like to hear anything you're willing to share about
(a) how to get the most of of a Samsung DLP and
(b) what additional gain there is to having a professional calibration and under what circumstances.
Funny you should ask. :) I'm going to be writing an article for AW next month just on that subject. But to give you some quick tips, I would place it within the "Movie" mode, remove "DNIe" if you have the option of doing so, and then get a copy of DVE and perform a user-menu calibration using the procedure outlined in my article.

As for the benefits of having your display calibrated by a reputable ISF technician, I would say A) you'll view material in the shades and colors that their directors intended them to be enjoyed in. B) Your display will have added depth and realism. C) You'll get 100% performance from your display rather than a much smaller percentage. D) Your display's life may be extended by ensuring that it's running within its linear operating range. E) Your associated equipment (DVD, STB, etc.) will also be set-up properly.

These benefits would be gained providing that the display is being viewed in an environment that has control over the ambient lighting.

I hope that this helps you some.

Regards,

Eliab

I have had my last two DLPs calibrated by Cheezmo. prior to that I had my CRT based RPTV calibrated. IMO the results are undeniable. I just changed the lamp in my current set, and will get it calibrated after the lamp get 100 hours on it.

I agree that it's an unwanted expense and not for everyone. Some are perfectly happy with the out of box picture. I don't, however, believe that you will ever truly realize the full capabilities of you display without a professional calibration. This may be OK with the majority of people who are satisfied and have never seen a calibrated set. As they say "You don't know what you don't know". In my case it is a no brainer.

I had been on the HLS thread after we discussed this... and there are a few differences.
There is a different color wheel (faster), elimination of firewire ports, ability to turn off DNIE,
link to photo, much nicer IMHO... (http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/DLPTV/files/hls5088_final.pdf)
So is this the beginning of the end of the (brief) silver component fad? So now we all rush to replace our silver components with black again? Though, this time, it will be GLOSS black? LOL!

Looks like this time they use the GAME mode in their marketing. I wonder if it has been improved from the HLR series? Using GAME on my 5067 really does nothing for my gen1 Xbox.

Looks like it still has firewire, despite the reports to the contrary?

I guess the most significant feature is that it is now 1080p, eh?

I remember Samsung advertised its new DLP TV in this years CES show. It was said that the new model utilizes three LED bulbs so removes the need for color wheel. The benefits are longevity of bulb life and total elimination of rainbow effect. It was also said the new model would be on the market in April. Anybody has seen it?
The PDF in the posting just before yours indicates that it still has a (faster) color wheel.

But If you do have the time and are willing to take a stab at it, then by all means go for it! In fact, I wrote an article with David Abrams on performing a user-level calibration with DVE (Digital Video Essentials) for our monthly American Wired column that may perhaps assist you with this process.

...

I don't know. Many of my clients are perpetually tweaking and upgrading their computers to attain every ounce of performance from them and to keep up with the latest technologies. People spend many thousands of dollars customizing their cars to handle better. World class recording studios spend huge sums of money to ensure that the music coming out of their expensive monitors is not being influenced by the acoustics of the room even though the speakers themselves were marketed as having a flat frequency response. But that aside, many people simply enjoy the process of elevating the performance of their "equipment" be it their home theater, motorcycle, musical instrument, etc.

...

Funny you should ask. I'm going to be writing an article for AW next month just on that subject. But to give you some quick tips, I would place it within the "Movie" mode, remove "DNIe" if you have the option of doing so, and then get a copy of DVE and perform a user-menu calibration using the procedure outlined in my article.

Eliab,
thanks for the feedback. my copy of DVE should be here in a day or two, so the great article in American Wired is just what I'm looking for, especially since I consider DVDs my most important source.

you said "remove "DNIe" if you have the option of doing so" I've found no way to turn it off, either mentioned in this forum nor in the service menus. Is there a trick?

dps-raleigh,

You're very welcome.. :)

Which Sammy do you own?

Eliab

Yea exactly how do you remove the DNIe inside the service menu? And what is the benefit of removing the DNIe? Thanks

Eliab, I have the HLR 5667. Could you tell me how to remove the DNIe in the service menu? Thanks

you said "remove "DNIe" if you have the option of doing so" I've found no way to turn it off, either mentioned in this forum nor in the service menus. Is there a trick?

You're overlooking several posts.
Here's one.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6164128#post6164128

Actually, in the SM you are adjusting the gains in the DNIE menu to -0- and turning off the two parameters listed after the gains.

I personally don't think any of this is necessary, but it's do-able.

So is this the beginning of the end of the (brief) silver component fad? So now we all rush to replace our silver components with black again? Though, this time, it will be GLOSS black? LOL!

Looks like this time they use the GAME mode in their marketing. I wonder if it has been improved from the HLR series? Using GAME on my 5067 really does nothing for my gen1 Xbox.

Looks like it still has firewire, despite the reports to the contrary?

I guess the most significant feature is that it is now 1080p, eh?


The PDF in the posting just before yours indicates that it still has a (faster) color wheel.

There's some confusion going on here!

The HL "S" series has a 720P (xx86) and two 1080P models (xx87 & xx88).
I have no idea what the difference is in the two 1080P models.
(revised) The HL-S 5088 utilizes a 10 bit video processing chip. The 87 does not.
The 10 bit chip is a much better scaler, usually found in high end processors.

Their LED model (no color wheel) displayed at the Las Vegas CES is an (HL-S 5679) and is only available in the 56 inch size. It's a pricey gadget too!

There's some confusion going on here!

The HL "S" series has a 720P (xx86) and two 1080P models (xx87 & xx88).
I have no idea what the difference is in the two 1080P models.

Their LED model (no color wheel) displayed at the Las Vegas CES is an (HL-S 5679) and is only available in the 56 inch size. It's a pricey gadget too!
Aha! Thanks for the clarification, HR! I was very confused about this and knew I must have been missing something.

Aha! Thanks for the clarification, HR! I was very confused about this and knew I must have been missing something.

I just added interesting info to it!

Greetings,
Even though I own a different Samsung model than the title of this thread, I wanted to offer my own view on the merits of ISF calibration based on some earlier posts today.
Up until the time I discovered this forum as well as The Home Theater Spot I had never heard of calibrating a TV other than playing around with the user menu.
Through these forums I contacted Eliab @ www.avical.com and over the years he has calibrated both my elderly Hitachi RPTV and then my current Samsung hl-p5674. In both cases I have had touch up calibrations redone after a year or so.
It was through these sessions with Eliab that I have learned more about displays and home theater than I could have possibly imagined.
This is a hobby for me, and not an inexpensive one at that. Nothing dictates buying thousands of dollars worth of video equipment to just watch tv...you can get by with far less. You pay for your pleasures and subsequently get what you pay for. If you are a regular to these forums you probably already know that.
However, all that being said, knowing what I know now, I could never be satisfied again by owning a non calibrated video device. I am fortunate in that I live within driving distance of Eliab because both of my devices proved to be challenging in their own way to calibrate.
My point in this post is that in my opinion some people are content in OOB performance, and others want the maximum level of performance that their equipment can obtain. TV manufacturers are in business to sell tv's to the masses, and not market to a small percentage of videophiles that obsess about an accurate picture. That's why there is such a difference in OOB picture quality.
I hired a professional because I couldn't calibrate gray scale, or even knew what it was in the first place way back when I started out in my display quest. I also had neither the ISF training, expensive test equipment or, most importantly, the real life experience to DIY.
If you can afford the ISF services, your own eyes will tell you if you can perceive the difference in pq.
In my case, I certainly can, but YMMV,
b.

tacos,

Defeating DNIe will improve picture quality in a number of ways. Perhaps most importantly, it does away with "floating-black" which is when the level of black changes depending on the intensity of the scene. Furthermore, it also removes excessive edge enhancement as well as faint horizontal banding in dark scenes. Suffice it to say, you want it turned off! Here's how to do it on your 5667. Enter the DNIe page of your service menu and turn down all of the parameters below to a value of "0" or "OFF." Some of these have a preset setting of 12000 (!) which will take you some time to lower to 0.

NR_MAX Y/C - 0
NR_MIN Y/C - 0
Core - 0
B_RATIO - 0
BLACK_TILT - 0
W_RATIO - 0
WHITE_TILT - 0
GAIN 1X - 0
GAIN 1Y - 0
GAIN 2X - 0
GAIN 2Y - 0
GAIN 3X - 0
NDON - OFF
CORING_ON - OFF
SCALE_R - 0

Bob,

As always, thanks for your kind words my friend... ;)

Regards,

Eliab

Eliab, Is this possible with the 4667?

Kevin,

Yes, I believe it is.

Eliab

Eliab,

Thanks for the help. I'm gonna try it tonight when I get home!

There's some confusion going on here!

The HL "S" series has a 720P (xx86) and two 1080P models (xx87 & xx88).
I have no idea what the difference is in the two 1080P models.
(revised) The HL-S 5088 utilizes a 10 bit video processing chip. The 87 does not.
The 10 bit chip is a much better scaler, usually found in high end processors.

Their LED model (no color wheel) displayed at the Las Vegas CES is an (HL-S 5679) and is only available in the 56 inch size. It's a pricey gadget too!

There's also the xx66 720p sets.

As for the 87/88, they both have 10 bit, as confirmed in the TVA powerbuy thread as well as the main HLS thread. The 88 model is positioned as the higher end "specialty" model, although the only real differences are that it has CableCard, firewire, and PIP.

I helped my friend setup his new HLS56(86?). He had the Sammy 850 upconverting DVD and HDMI setup. I hadn't seen much difference in upconverting DVD players or the 1080p models but the picture was substantially better. With 1080p possible over HDMI, DNIE switch, game mode, thinner bezel, and larger contrast, I think this set is the way to go. It was missing some inputs (which may be on the delux model). Can't wait to see 1080p DVD on it.

I helped my friend setup his new HLS56(86?). He had the Sammy 850 upconverting DVD and HDMI setup. I hadn't seen much difference in upconverting DVD players or the 1080p models but the picture was substantially better. With 1080p possible over HDMI, DNIE switch, game mode, thinner bezel, and larger contrast, I think this set is the way to go. It was missing some inputs (which may be on the delux model). Can't wait to see 1080p DVD on it.
It's great to hear that Samsung has really improved things on the new models. I wish there was something they would do for us that have the previous (HLR) generation though. Still hoping a firmware update can help, at least in some way(s).

dps-raleigh,

You're very welcome.. :)

Which Sammy do you own?

Eliab
6 week old HLR5067w
Samsung 850 upconverting DVD (via HDMI)
SA 8300HD STB (via component)

also, thanks for the DeNie turn off info, I'll try it.

In terms of turning off DNIe, wow those settings with an initial value of 12000!!! I'm doing it now as i sit here typing with 1 hand! Maybe I could just tape the right arrow down? (-:

In terms of turning off DNIe, wow those settings with an initial value of 12000!!! I'm doing it now as i sit here typing with 1 hand! Maybe I could just tape the right arrow down? (-:
Please get back with us, and let us know if making this change has improved things for you. Did you have a (or a few) DVD that looked terrible before? Does it still look exactly the same?

I actually now found a way to balance some coasters on the button, so no loud coughing or sneezing please! On a side note, when I lowered WHITE_TILT - 0, my menus got a little whacked out. They would kind of go blurry then come back. Is this normal? I'm currently working on lowering W_RATIO - 0. This is one of the 2 settings (for me) that was at 12000. I have a HLR4667W.

jayfore - i watch Directv 95+% of the time. DVD's on this set have been a little hit or miss. My main issue is dark scenes are drab, dull, and it's hard to make out much detail. I struggle to, in that, this room has a pretty decent amount of ambient lighting.

The thing that always perplexes me is that OTA shows like Leno, Lettermen, Conan look really good and when I adjust various settings, there isn't a huge picture swing. When the source is sub-par ("HD-Lite"), I seem to struggle in getting a dramatic (bright/sharp) picture. Certain programming, like D* MLB Extra innings always looks sub-bar (macroblocking), but I really think it's the source material and that the TV. The TV just seems to be magnifying a poor signal. I think too it's the highly compressed D* signal that makes certain Discovery HD and other programming not as brilliant as it could be. It's hard to find a happy medium, when at least 1 of the variables is far from perfect.

In terms of turning off DNIe, wow those settings with an initial value of 12000!!! I'm doing it now as i sit here typing with 1 hand! Maybe I could just tape the right arrow down? (-:

Really! You have to actually arrow down...you can't just input the value?


edit: I just got a signal on my OTA HD channels over the weekend.
I am a little disappointed in the Automatic picture that the stations broadcast. But I watched "Seabiscuit" on ABC the other night, VERY NICE. MY wife didn't understand what I was doing getting everything hooked up to OTA, when we "PAY FOR SATELLITE!!" But, c'est la vie'. One Q though, can I not input the HD broadcast channel manually? I live in a rural area, and have a rotator to pull in the various markets. But I am kinda defeating my purpose by Autoprogramming then rotating my antenna and Autoprogramming again. Unless I can lock the stations I have now in some way? Anyone??

It's great to hear that Samsung has really improved things on the new models. I wish there was something they would do for us that have the previous (HLR) generation though. Still hoping a firmware update can help, at least in some way(s).

What do you want helped? Just curious, for I have a HLR.

Hi ...First time posting here on this very informative site!
I just picked up a new SSung HLR5067w and really like it....the only thing bothering me is I have noticed that the entire projected picture is slightly slanted by about 1/4 of an inch. I went into the service menu and brought up the cross-hatch pattern and you can definitely see that it is not level across from left to right
I was wondering if anyone here knows of a setting in the service menu that I can use to fix this issue???(Other than placing a wedge under one side of the TV :) )

Thanks very much!
Tim

I actually now found a way to balance some coasters on the button, so no loud coughing or sneezing please! On a side note, when I lowered WHITE_TILT - 0, my menus got a little whacked out. They would kind of go blurry then come back. Is this normal? I'm currently working on lowering W_RATIO - 0. This is one of the 2 settings (for me) that was at 12000. I have a HLR4667W.



HLR5667 owner here, and last night in the midst of the heartwrenching loss in OT by my beloved Devils to those stinking southern .... I digress... anyhow I took Eliab's instructions and turned off DNIe. I also got the 'phantom lettering' effect during my adjustments and started to freak out. Don't worry, this is normal only while you're in the SM. Once you power off and restart that effect goes away.

I also experienced one side effect which I nearly went into total flip-out mode. Suddenly during the lowering of everything except the 2 12000 settings, the display started ghosting severely. I was of course watching hockey which totally exaggerated the effect and made the puck like the old fox-track meteor flare and everything black had horrible trails. I thought I just FUBAR'd my set.

I powered off, and back on and did the same with the cable box and everything was fine from there. I then proved I am from primate beginnings and used the ottoman's leg to wedge the remote under and put the 'increment down' button into 'auto-pilot' mode and went back to watching the game. It took about 45 minutes total to get the 2 settings to 0.

In my post-game depression, I then decided to evaluate the 'new picture' and immediately noticed a difference.

For 1, any adjustments I made to the settings (Standard, Custom, Movie) went back to the default settings. After I put the contrast and brightness back to where I normally keep them, there was a big difference.

The overall contrast to make my picture look good to me went down dramatically, and in the same, the brightness went up quite a bit too. Without DNIe on, the blacks are really a true black! - YES! :D I couldn't believe how much better the percieved contrast was between a bright white and true black in the picture.

A quick summary (only 30 minutes spent playing around with settings after disabling the DNIe)
Contrast - went from 96 to 88
Brightness - went from 54 to 60
Sharpness - went from 0 to 25
Color - went from 52 to 46 (not sure but seems like saturation went up - could have been just the programming.. i need to pop in Gladiator for my reference)


I can't wait to try some DVD's and see if this helps some of the macroblocking in the darker scenes that drove me nuts.... *grabs ALIEN DVD*

Thanks for the 'how to' with disabling DNIe - I have hope that ROME will now look great on my Sammy!


PS to Hasan. I also thought his retort was a bit scolding of you, but regardless of intent or perception, let's all keep posting and sharing in here man - you are a valued resource of info just as he was for helping with this issue. Let's all play nice. And that's coming from someone who gets ticked at alot of statements people make in these forums.... :rolleyes:

And anyone not from the Carolinas, say a little prayer for the Devils to get back on track - TY.

Really! You have to actually arrow down...you can't just input the value?


edit: I just got a signal on my OTA HD channels over the weekend.
I am a little disappointed in the Automatic picture that the stations broadcast. But I watched "Seabiscuit" on ABC the other night, VERY NICE. MY wife didn't understand what I was doing getting everything hooked up to OTA, when we "PAY FOR SATELLITE!!" But, c'est la vie'. One Q though, can I not input the HD broadcast channel manually? I live in a rural area, and have a rotator to pull in the various markets. But I am kinda defeating my purpose by Autoprogramming then rotating my antenna and Autoprogramming again. Unless I can lock the stations I have now in some way? Anyone??
You can just enter "5-1" with the remote and it will come up if it can get signal. I think the tunner will skip the channel if it can't find a signal even if it was picked up in auto-scan like you said??
Maybe the best solution would be to go into the TV guide channel display setup and find the channels you want to add. The network info may be wrong but you can manually enter the right channel. Make sure it is turned on in the TV guide channel display and then you can tune to it through the TV guide and get the schedule.

Looks like most people are seeing success by killing DNIE. One Q about the SM though. Aren't a lot of the settings specific to the input you are watching? So Gamma, index, and DNIE are set per input? Maybe gamma and index but DNIE is universal? Can anybody confirm?