HLR5667 owner here, I took Eliab's instructions and turned off DNIe. I also got the 'phantom lettering' effect during my adjustments and started to freak out. Don't worry, this is normal only while you're in the SM. Once you power off and restart that effect goes away.

I also experienced one side effect which I nearly went into total flip-out mode. Suddenly during the lowering of everything except the 2 12000 settings, the display started ghosting severely. I was of course watching hockey which totally exaggerated the effect and made the puck like the old fox-track meteor flare and everything black had horrible trails. I thought I just FUBAR'd my set.

I powered off, and back on and did the same with the cable box and everything was fine from there. I then proved I am from primate beginnings and used the ottoman's leg to wedge the remote under and put the 'increment down' button into 'auto-pilot' mode and went back to watching the game. It took about 45 minutes total to get the 2 settings to 0.

In my post-game depression, I then decided to evaluate the 'new picture' and immediately noticed a difference. For 1, any adjustments I made to the settings (Standard, Custom, Movie) went back to the default settings. After I put the contrast and brightness back to where I normally keep them, there was a big difference.

The overall contrast to make my picture look good to me went down dramatically, and in the same, the brightness went up quite a bit too. Without DNIe on, the blacks are really a true black! - YES! :D I couldn't believe how much better the percieved contrast was between a bright white and true black in the picture.

A quick summary (only 30 minutes spent playing around with settings after disabling the DNIe)
Contrast - went from 96 to 88
Brightness - went from 54 to 60
Sharpness - went from 0 to 25
Color - went from 52 to 46 (not sure but seems like saturation went up - could have been just the programming.. i need to pop in Gladiator for my reference)


I can't wait to try some DVD's and see if this helps some of the macroblocking in the darker scenes that drove me nuts.... *grabs ALIEN DVD* Thanks for the 'how to' with disabling DNIe - I have hope that ROME will now look great on my Sammy!Thanks for the results and info! I'm glad you mentioned your flipping out, and how powering off made everything right again... Saves me the cussing when the time comes for me to turn off DNIe (soon, just waiting to make sure this is an across-the-board change, and not a per-input one).

Yes! I am very eager to hear your assessment of ALIEN, ROME, or other content with lots of dark scenes! Thanks again for the post!


Looks like most people are seeing success by killing DNIE. One Q about the SM though. Aren't a lot of the settings specific to the input you are watching? So Gamma, index, and DNIE are set per input? Maybe gamma and index but DNIE is universal? Can anybody confirm?Yes, this is what I'm wondering also -- good question!


What do you want helped? Just curious, for I have a HLR.I'm looking for improvement in dark scenes (mostly on DVD), where macroblocking is profuse in most cases.

Looks like most people are seeing success by killing DNIE. One Q about the SM though. Aren't a lot of the settings specific to the input you are watching? So Gamma, index, and DNIE are set per input? Maybe gamma and index but DNIE is universal? Can anybody confirm?
I could be wrong, but I believe adjusting Index Delay once covers all inputs. I adjusted Index on my HL-R5067 while viewing a signal from my HD STB (Component 1), but I no longer have problems with dark scenes on DVDs (Component 2). That is the only SM adjustment I've made, so I can't comment on Gamma and DNIE.

Thanks for the results and info! I'm glad you mentioned your flipping out, and how powering off made everything right again... Saves me the cussing when the time comes for me to turn off DNIe (soon, just waiting to make sure this is an across-the-board change, and not a per-input one).

Yes! I am very eager to hear your assessment of ALIEN, ROME, or other content with lots of dark scenes! Thanks again for the post!



Update: I went home for lunch and played around a little more to see if I could get a better feel for the adjustments. I found out what was causing the 'ghosting' of the image... the Noise Reduction setting. If you turn this on (to reduce flickering), it basicly must be slowing the refresh rate down, because this ON made the fast motion blur, but as soon as I turned it off - it was fine.

I looked at several DVR'd HD programs, and I may be imagining things, but it seems to me 3 things after turning off DNIE.

1) There is more 'graininess' to several programs than I noticed before. Not sure if this is due to the changes in the SM, or if this is a factor of turning off the NR setting and now seeing things more 'purely' than before.

2) In addition, things just don't feel as crisp overall. Things like the cable box menu, HD channel logos, and just random items I look at I'm questioning if somehow turning off DNIE can actually have an effect on the sharpness?

3) Color saturation seems WAAAAY higher now. I turned the color down to 38 from 50 to get red shirts to not bloom in sunlight scenes. I think colors are much more pronounced than before.

This makes me think that overall, DNIE is similar to a variable scaling program that is scanning the signal and actively adjusting the display to maintain a certain profile or histogram. Filtering a better word? Not sure, but blacks seem more black, color seems more robust, and brights seem ultra bright (some blooming at levels I've never seen before). Makes me think DNIE is essentially 'choking' the total output down to a fixed range to keep the midpoint of this histogram I'm thinking of more constant. Isn't this essentially compression in it's purest sense (think electric guitar compressor pedal if you know what that is...)???

This is all speculation of course, but its the only way for me to describe what I'm seeing firsthand. And if this is correct, DNIE is basically an 'idiot light' for the masses out there who don't want to adjust their set for every program, input, channel they view to compensate for variances in signal.... hmmm. I guess that could be a good thing... right?

more testing tonight...

I could be wrong, but I believe adjusting Index Delay once covers all inputs. I adjusted Index on my HL-R5067 while viewing a signal from my HD STB (Component 1), but I no longer have problems with dark scenes on DVDs (Component 2). That is the only SM adjustment I've made, so I can't comment on Gamma and DNIE.

I also jumped into this menu at lunch (sorry for the double post) and changed this about 4 increments. I think default was 43 on my set and I bumped it to 47 - as the test pattern on the screen showed noticeable errors on the left end of the color banding at 40 and 54 so I went to the mid-point.

Too many changes at once, I may never know what 'fixed' anything if this all works out.... lol - but I didn't like the gamma set at 0 or 1 like some people have done, 2 looked fine, 3 was "ACK!", 4 was ok, and oddly enough 7 looked better - but since nobody seems to have ever changed it to that, I left it at 2.

so the WTE_CSC to the Sub Brightness settings in the DNIe menu do not need to be changed?

Looks like most people are seeing success by killing DNIE. One Q about the SM though. Aren't a lot of the settings specific to the input you are watching? So Gamma, index, and DNIE are set per input? Maybe gamma and index but DNIE is universal? Can anybody confirm?

I just changed the DNIE service menu settings as recommended by Eliab. I wanted to disable DNIE on three sources (RF, HDMI, Comp Vid) just to save Eliab some time when he is here on Thursday. Did RF first and discovered that it did NOT have any effect on the settings for the Comp Vid source. But after making the changes to the Comp Vid source, turns out DNIE was disabled for the HDMI source. HDMI must be tied to either the RF or the Comp Vid source, at least in terms of the DNIE settings... my guess is the RF source since both are digital and Comp Vid is analog.

After completing my SM work, I was at first a little disappointed. I put my picture settings (contrast, brightness, sharpness, color) back to my original calibrated values prior to disabling DNIE, and I too noticed that the picture was grainier and had a "speckled" quality during bright scenes. The term "speckled" was used by someone else once, but I actually think "twinkling" is a better description. The only way that I found to get rid of the twinkling is to adjust (turn down) contrast while watching bright scenes until the twinkling disappears, though I think this effect is in part due to the textured anti-glare screen (more on this later). As it turns out, I adjusted contrast down a full 15 steps from my previous setting. I then decided to perform a quick basic calibration using DVE (even though Eliab is going to give my set the professional touch on Thursday), and ended up adjusting "color" down about 5 steps while keeping "brightness" about the same or a step higher.

After an hour or so of viewing some OTA HD programming and watching some dark scenes on a DVD or two, I do think disabling DNIE is a good thing. For one, the colors seem truer. When calibrating with DVE this time, the correct color setting seemed to be much more obvious. The only drawback may be the reduced contrast though I prefer a smoother picture anyway, and I am not sure the contrast is truly lower even though my contrast setting definitely is lower. As for macro-blocking, I am not sure there is an improvement but I am sure it is not any worse. Perhaps most important of all, disabling DNIE will allow one to get the most out of a basic or professional calibration because you don't have to try to account for a black level that floats. Lastly, I wonder if disabling DNIE will help reduce audio sync problems by reducing video delays due to extra processing ?

And finally, I am just wondering if anyone else has noticed this "speckling" or "twinkling" issue associated with bright colors, particularly bright whites ? And do you also think the textured anti-glare screen contributes to this effect ? The other day I was looking at some of the new HLS models at Sears, and I noticed a big difference between the 61" model and the smaller models. The picture on the 61" model was much "smoother", and I also noticed the anti-glare screen did not seem to have the texturing of the smaller models. Does Samsung use a different (and better) anti-glare screen on the larger DLPs ?

Hi guys,

I'm considering purchasing the Samsung HL-R6167W. I know this is a 2005 model, but I am wondering what the issues are (if any - I've read about defeating DNIe) with the set. There is about a $500 price difference between the HL-R6167W and the new HL-S6186W. What are the advantages/disadvantages of the new set and is it worth the price difference?

Hi guys,

I'm considering purchasing the Samsung HL-R6167W. I know this is a 2005 model, but I am wondering what the issues are (if any - I've read about defeating DNIe) with the set. There is about a $500 price difference between the HL-R6167W and the new HL-S6186W. What are the advantages/disadvantages of the new set and is it worth the price difference?
IMO..if you are going to get a set either get the HLRxx67W for the low price or upgrade to the HLSxx87w or HLSxx88. I know that DNIE is just a user menu setting on these sets. They are 1080p with two 1080p capable HDMI inputs not to mention the new design just looks cool. you wont get 1080p with the 67w model.

Many persons have pointed out in this thread that neither the PIP picture nor sound in the 5067W can be swapped between the main and sub without going through the menu system. Has anyone found a solution to this problem? For example, could one of the various types of universal remotes with a macro function be programmed to resolve this problem? Thanks for any ideas.

I just changed the DNIE service menu settings as recommended by Eliab. I wanted to disable DNIE on three sources (RF, HDMI, Comp Vid) just to save Eliab some time when he is here on Thursday. Did RF first and discovered that it did NOT have any effect on the settings for the Comp Vid source. But after making the changes to the Comp Vid source, turns out DNIE was disabled for the HDMI source. HDMI must be tied to either the RF or the Comp Vid source, at least in terms of the DNIE settings... my guess is the RF source since both are digital and Comp Vid is analog.

Follow up part III. (I predict a book by the time this is done).

Disabling DNIE in 1 input does NOT disable it across the board. My previous disabling was the HDMI input, and my DVD is connected via Component 1 input.

I went to watch Star Wars - Return of the Jedi last night to look at the blacks and dark scenes (no shortage of them right out of the gate) and realized DNIE was still on, so I had to go in and turn down everything again. I then paused after turning off everything EXCEPT the 2 12,000 values since they take so long to 0 out... thinking I'd look at the changes thus far and make sure it was headed in the right direction before finishing with those 2 monster changes.

Important note - you MUST change all of them before avaluating the effect. here's why - when I watched the scene where Luke is back with Yoda in the swamp, he walks under his x-wing in the dark, and the spotlight from his ship was "Speckling" out of control. It literally looked like video feedback with dots going from black to white in a static mode and I thought OMG... it's messed! Well, once I went back in the SM and knocked the 12,000's down to 0, it went away and looked fine - so the lesson is you have to turn them all off, or none of them unless you're a pro doing adjustments to the DNIE itself.

After that I watched several scenes to compare with DNIE and without (I watched the first 30 minutes with it on prior to disabling.)

Overall, it's better off IMO. I still ended up cranking down the color again like the HDMI input about 10 increments (44 now), Contrast went down a bit (85 now), and Brightness is staying pretty contsant (54). The reason for this is the darks are so deep and rich now, that some darker details are getting lost at the high contrast levels, so I bumped up the brightness just a tad to the border of making the letterbox blacks start to show a bit of gray, and then brought it back down 2 increments. (I'm a fanatic about the letterbox blacks looking absolutely as black as possible).

I still think there is a slight increase in the 'graininess' factor, but since the DVD was 480p being upconverted, I didn't expect HD quality, but the HDMI input I watched again after disabling DNIE still looks overall a bit grainy as well. I could be paranoid though after making these changes and simply seeing things I didn't notice before.... a common problem after making SM changes I'm sure. :o

Another plus I've encountered is the gradients seem to be better now too - in scenes (like Luke entering Jabba's Den down the cave) where it is mostly dark with a distant bright light source, there isn't as much gradiation or lines in the fading from one color to another. I need to watch some water scenes as the blues are notorious for this to validate, but in all the scenes I watched, there was excellent transition compared to what I normally encounter with DNIE on.

Hope this helps some of you - I know it's long winded, but these are the types of posts that I personally get the most info from. ;)

Good sample scene to evaluate:
Return of the Jedi - Chapter 2 (Shuttle Scene) Where the camera is behind the 2 pilots as they approach the big ship. The blacks are all over the place - their uniforms, space background through the window, etc... and if your contrast/brightness settings are too far off, their uniforms will look complete black with no detail or lighting visible. Interesting note - the face of the guy on the right will look HORRIBLE in the 2nd cut of them in that scene... I suspect a result of re-mastering the DVD's to cover bad matting in the original special effect... so don't think you've messed up the settings based on that.

Fixed some of the dark level issues! I didn't think that my old DVD player (using component 480i) had video settings. Well it does. There was a crappy dark level adjustment that improved PQ when turned off. Now the grainy, shifting/macroblocking black levels are about twice as good. They are still bad but its an improvement. Thanks to Eliab and his article for the step by step on using DVE. I am going to turn off DNIE next and re-run the DVE calibration.

The 1080p capability (HL-S6187) is a $1,000 premium over the LH-R6167 and a $500 premium over the HL-S6186. I've noticed that not all HD DVD players will play 1080p. Are all HD DVDs going to be recorded in 1080p? I don't think we'll see any 1080p broadcasts anytime soon... so HD DVD would be the only possible source material.

I then decided to perform a quick basic calibration using DVE (even though Eliab is going to give my set the professional touch on Thursday), and ended up adjusting "color" down about 5 steps while keeping "brightness" about the same or a step higher.
Was your green way off before turning off DNIE? If so, is your green still way out of whack after turning off DNIE? I have DVE and my blue and red are very close to being dead on, but I can distinctly see all of the squares with the green filter. I'm just wondering if turning off DNIE helps with this problem.

Thanks in advance.

The 1080p capability (HL-S6187) is a $1,000 premium over the LH-R6167 and a $500 premium over the HL-S6186. I've noticed that not all HD DVD players will play 1080p. Are all HD DVDs going to be recorded in 1080p? I don't think we'll see any 1080p broadcasts anytime soon... so HD DVD would be the only possible source material.

From what I understand, the HD DVDs are 1080p, but the players aren't outputting 1080p. Something like that at least.

Blueray players *will* output 1080p.

Hello,

I just purchased the Akai version of the HLR5067W and I'm noticing two large lighter color circles (bigger being about 3" in diameter) near the top of the screen on the left side when any dark, single color image, is one the screen. Any ideas on what these are? They remind me of the lens flares you see in movies when the camera points towards the sun.

I just read an article about it at projector central. Interesting stuff:

In the last couple of days, several technical issues have been put to rest, at least for me. The first was the common accusation that the initial HD-DVD players like the Toshiba HD-A1 are deficient because they don't output "full 1080p" resolution, that they are "1080i only." I don't see this as a practical concern. All HD-DVD and Blu-ray discs will encode film-sourced material in full 1920x1080 progressive scan resolution at 24 frames per second, which is the film industry standard.

Unfortunately many folks are confusing 1080i acquisition with 1080i transmission. The primary reason we get interlacing artifacts in a 480i, 576i, or 1080i signal is that the frame was originally captured in interlaced format, with the odd scan lines and even scan lines being recorded at two different moments in time. When you reassemble two fields that are offset in time, you get jaggies, moire patterns, barber pole effects, and line twitter. That is not true of either HD-DVD or Blu-ray film transfers since the image is scanned progressively from a film frame that represents a single moment in time.

Therefore we would expect to see none of the common evidence of deinterlacing when watching HD-DVD or Blu-ray movies that are being transmitted via 1080i. Our first look at HD-DVD in 1080i confirms this expectation. After hours of viewing three different HD-DVD movies there is simply no evidence of any artifact that might be attributed to the fact that the signal was transmitted in 1080i format. The picture is as clean, stable, and as artifact-free as it could be. There is no visible defect in the image that would be eliminated by switching to 1080p transmission. (By the way, the fact that all three of these particular HD-DVDs are in the video codec VC-1 is another factor that contributes to the pristine image quality.)

A couple of really stupid questions. I'm reading the threads about disabling the DNIE. Why do I want to turn it off and why is it on? I've went into the screen menu and tried the demo of the DNIE and saw a difference but not dramatic. Does the new HLR models need the DNIE function off?
Second, I changed my index delay but can't find where to change gamma. And lastly for the super stupid question how do I get into the service menu again. Been there once but my pea brain can't recall how to get there again. Thanks.

I can't seem to find much difference between the HL-R6167 and the HL-S6186... I guess the only decision now is if 1080p is worth $1,000 more than 720p resolution. Kinda thinking not... what do you guys think?

The 1080p capability (HL-S6187) is a $1,000 premium over the LH-R6167 and a $500 premium over the HL-S6186. I've noticed that not all HD DVD players will play 1080p. Are all HD DVDs going to be recorded in 1080p? I don't think we'll see any 1080p broadcasts anytime soon... so HD DVD would be the only possible source material.
Right. The 1080p may be too much money so the HLR would be a good choice. It will take a while for 1080p broadcasts to emerge. HD-DVD output is currently 1080i and Bluray will be 1080p but it will be a while before most people commit to these. The main advantage I saw was the better resolution and Contrast. I have had an HLR set for several months now and was impressed with how sharp the HLS-5687w set looked after a few minutes of watching. I was watching different upconverted resolutions and didn't notice much difference but the regular 480p over HDMI was noticeably better than my set. I took advantage of the new 1080p technology to get a price break on a 720p set 'cause its going to take a while for the new stuff to stabablize. Or you could downsize to 56"

Actually, make that a $600 difference. (but that means a Toshiba vs a Samsung)

I just started using my DLP as my computer monitor. While I like the convenience of having a huge monitor with a wireless keyboard and mouse, the resolution is pretty weak. My current graphics card will only let me set the monitor settings to 800 x 600. Could anyone recommend a graphics card less than $200 that will give me a better picture in PC mode or any other changes I should make? I had to set the TV to 4:3, because the other settings look awful. Any tips or suggestions? Thanks in advance!

I just started using my DLP as my computer monitor. While I like the convenience of having a huge monitor with a wireless keyboard and mouse, the resolution is pretty weak. My current graphics card will only let me set the monitor settings to 800 x 600. Could anyone recommend a graphics card less than $200 that will give me a better picture in PC mode or any other changes I should make? I had to set the TV to 4:3, because the other settings look awful. Any tips or suggestions? Thanks in advance!
most cards will do 720p. Sounds like you don't have the right driver unless your card is really old. You can get new cards for $50-$100 without too much trouble. Doesn't sound like you're a gamer so you won't have to buy a good gaming card.

I just started using my DLP as my computer monitor. While I like the convenience of having a huge monitor with a wireless keyboard and mouse, the resolution is pretty weak. My current graphics card will only let me set the monitor settings to 800 x 600. Could anyone recommend a graphics card less than $200 that will give me a better picture in PC mode or any other changes I should make? I had to set the TV to 4:3, because the other settings look awful. Any tips or suggestions? Thanks in advance!

I recommend any with a nVidia chipset and DVI out. I like nVidia's overscan corrections for HDTVs and you can use a DVI to HDMI cable. You should be able to get a good card for under $100.

Hello,

I just purchased the Akai version of the HLR5067W and I'm noticing two large lighter color circles (bigger being about 3" in diameter) near the top of the screen on the left side when any dark, single color image, is one the screen. Any ideas on what these are? They remind me of the lens flares you see in movies when the camera points towards the sun.

They are commonly referred to as crop circles or snowballs. It's caused by moisture droplets. I'd do a search to learn more about it and call Samsung for service.

The 1080p capability (HL-S6187) is a $1,000 premium over the LH-R6167 and a $500 premium over the HL-S6186. I've noticed that not all HD DVD players will play 1080p. Are all HD DVDs going to be recorded in 1080p? I don't think we'll see any 1080p broadcasts anytime soon... so HD DVD would be the only possible source material.

HD DVD isn't the only 1080P source material. The 1080P models will convert, (not linear scale), but actually convert 1080i signals to 1080P. The 1080i signals being broadcasted by most networks have all the resolution lines required for 1080P viewing. The important transition is from interlaced to progressive. The benefits of 1080P are enjoyed immediately. The 480i and 720P broadcasts however will be linear scaled to 1080P by these 87 & 88 "S" models.

Another consideration is 1080P provided by the top two video scalers. Those are the DVDO iSCAN VP30 and the Faroudja DVP1080. These are non-linear multi-bit processors as well as true 1080i de-interlacing devices. These high end video processors make 480i look like HD on a 1080P set. A pocket full of money would be helpful!

I just started using my DLP as my computer monitor. While I like the convenience of having a huge monitor with a wireless keyboard and mouse, the resolution is pretty weak. My current graphics card will only let me set the monitor settings to 800 x 600. Could anyone recommend a graphics card less than $200 that will give me a better picture in PC mode or any other changes I should make? I had to set the TV to 4:3, because the other settings look awful. Any tips or suggestions? Thanks in advance!

It's not your graphics card. It's the driver. Google for the "Powerstrip" driver. There's a free trial version. This will allow you to dial in the exact resolution. It's compatable with most video graphics cards.

I looked up the Powerstrip driver and it looks extremely technical in nature. If I download this to my machine, can anybody tell me what settings to use for the best possible picture on my Samsung HL-R5667?

Just took care of the DNIe on my HLR-5067. I was able to notice a HUGH improvement on the opening sceen of Harry Potter and the Goblet of fire. It's a very dark night sceen that had a ton of color errors and MBing like crazy. I have the Oppo DVD player on the HDMI port. My saturation is at +1 in the oppo to improve MB before DNIe was turned off. Now I can't even see the MBing unless I'm looking for it. I also don't see any aliesing on my Xbox 360 running in 720p on certain sceens that I did see them before.

I feel the color is a little washed out compaired to what it looked like before but I'll just have to do some tweaking and It should all be good again. I would suggest everyone turn off the DNIe. I also recorded my old setting for each input as they where different between inputs.

Also their is a way to make adjustments in 100 incerments instead of just 1. On the keypad the - and the pre-ch buttons will go in 100 incerments. Took me about 15 minutes to do 3 inputs for my DNIe.

I can't seem to find much difference between the HL-R6167 and the HL-S6186... I guess the only decision now is if 1080p is worth $1,000 more than 720p resolution. Kinda thinking not... what do you guys think?

I have a 720p set, but it is only 46-inches. I think at 61-inches 1080p would be a nice step up. However, worth a $1000? I don't know. That depends on you. Personally, I'm glad I don't have to make your decision.

If the 1080p was not a financial burden, I would get it. But I wouldn't wait around without anything, for the 720p would be a beautiful set too.

so the WTE_CSC to the Sub Brightness settings in the DNIe menu do not need to be changed?


anyone?

Well, I currently have a 43" Samsung DLP (which has performed admirably for 3 years now) that I am using in the room (living room) that I plan to put the 61" set in and then move the 43" to the bedroom. I have a 106" screen in the media room with a 720p projector, which is where I watch most of the movies. I do have the luxury of waiting if the price of the 1080p units were expected to keep falling as more competitors enter the market and HD DVD/Blue Ray become more common. Opinions?

A couple of really stupid questions. I'm reading the threads about disabling the DNIE. Why do I want to turn it off and why is it on? I've went into the screen menu and tried the demo of the DNIE and saw a difference but not dramatic. Does the new HLR models need the DNIE function off?
Second, I changed my index delay but can't find where to change gamma. And lastly for the super stupid question how do I get into the service menu again. Been there once but my pea brain can't recall how to get there again. Thanks.

No responses???? I knew they were stupid questions.

Search this thread for the service menu. Someone just posted it a couple of days back so it shouldn't be too difficult. I have not, as of yet, found the gamma either...
DNIE is, as I understand it, Samsung's automatic picture adjustment, some people like it off for a truer picture. Here's a link. (http://product.samsung.com/dnie/)
Ok guys, for those who have shut it off in their menus, How does it do on SD, either cable, OTA or satellite?

Samsung rely hypes up DNIE in that link. After turning off DNIE, the black levels are certainly better, the picture is less focused and grainy, and overall I am still debating whether this is a good or bad adjustment. My question is, is it possible to keep this improved black level performance without sacrificing some of the other losses? Perhaps some of those adjustments I set to "0" could be left at some value?

Was your green way off before turning off DNIE? If so, is your green still way out of whack after turning off DNIE? I have DVE and my blue and red are very close to being dead on, but I can distinctly see all of the squares with the green filter. I'm just wondering if turning off DNIE helps with this problem.

Thanks in advance.

My green was also way off (10-15% push) on my set prior to turning off DNIE, and even after performing a basic calibration. Unfortunately I did not think to check the accuracy of green after I turned off DNIE. I didn't want to spend a lot of time playing with the picture settings since Eliab is stopping by tomorrow.

I looked up the Powerstrip driver and it looks extremely technical in nature. If I download this to my machine, can anybody tell me what settings to use for the best possible picture on my Samsung HL-R5667?You don't need powerstrip as long as your videocard supports 1280*720 resolution.

You need to go into your TV's menu. Under the Input/Source List name your PC port "PC". That's all there is to it. Then adjust your picture to get it centered, etc.

Samsung rely hypes up DNIE in that link. After turning off DNIE, the black levels are certainly better, the picture is less focused and grainy, and overall I am still debating whether this is a good or bad adjustment. My question is, is it possible to keep this improved black level performance without sacrificing some of the other losses? Perhaps some of those adjustments I set to "0" could be left at some value?

Glad you have the same impression as me - better blacks, less macroblocking, but somehow the picture is less crisp... :cool:

I am thinking turning DNIE off is a no-brainer for DVD input as there is no loss in crispness there - and the gains in truer black levels with no macroblocking (especially in some older DVD's) makes is a true pleasure to watch. (Watched Alien last night and man - it looked like a modern release with picture quality, not a 25+ year old release on DVD).

As for the tradeoffs on an HD feed, I think I'd like to see what you mention - an adjustement that would minimize the amount of DNIE processing going on, rather than simply an ON/OFF situation.

Can't we get the parameters to widen to favor the black levels without losing that overall picture crispness???

This sounds dangerously close to asking for a professional calibration... ;)

Good Black Level / Contrast/ Brightness Test - Chapter 11 and 14 I think are the 2 I kept looking at for macroblocking, gradiation, contrast from white to black, and artifacts. These are the scenes where the poor guy gets a face full of the alien in the ship through his helmet (the bright white spotlight over his shoulder while kneeling down), and the scene where Tom Skerrit goes adventuring in the air shafts with his little flamethrower to find the alien. The flame flickering in the tunnel gives plenty of up close lighting and detail to him, while everything else in the scene is black - a favorite spot for macro blocking from my experience. It looked flawless and I was impressed at how much detail was still visible with the little lighting present.

Hi ...First time posting here on this very informative site!
I just picked up a new SSung HLR5067w and really like it....the only thing bothering me is I have noticed that the entire projected picture is slightly slanted by about 1/4 of an inch. I went into the service menu and brought up the cross-hatch pattern and you can definitely see that it is not level across from left to right
I was wondering if anyone here knows of a setting in the service menu that I can use to fix this issue???(Other than placing a wedge under one side of the TV)
The slanted picture is indicative of the DMD module being mounted slightly incorrectly. Unfortunately, there's no real way to fix it easily as it would need to be physically repositioned.

Looks like most people are seeing success by killing DNIE. One Q about the SM though. Aren't a lot of the settings specific to the input you are watching? So Gamma, index, and DNIE are set per input? Maybe gamma and index but DNIE is universal? Can anybody confirm?
Gamma and index are global. DNIe is usually per input type although depending on the firmware it can be per input. With component, it can also be per scan rate.

1) There is more 'graininess' to several programs than I noticed before. Not sure if this is due to the changes in the SM, or if this is a factor of turning off the NR setting and now seeing things more 'purely' than before.

2) In addition, things just don't feel as crisp overall. Things like the cable box menu, HD channel logos, and just random items I look at I'm questioning if somehow turning off DNIE can actually have an effect on the sharpness?

3) Color saturation seems WAAAAY higher now. I turned the color down to 38 from 50 to get red shirts to not bloom in sunlight scenes. I think colors are much more pronounced than before.
You MUST performa a DVE user-level calibration once you disable DNIe. But yes, DNIe will remove a ton of edge enhancement which some might perceive as being soft.

I wonder if disabling DNIE will help reduce audio sync problems by reducing video delays due to extra processing ?
I don't believe so as I haven't noticed a difference in this regard with the sets that I've worked on including my 5078.

And finally, I am just wondering if anyone else has noticed this "speckling" or "twinkling" issue associated with bright colors, particularly bright whites ? And do you also think the textured anti-glare screen contributes to this effect ? The other day I was looking at some of the new HLS models at Sears, and I noticed a big difference between the 61" model and the smaller models. The picture on the 61" model was much "smoother", and I also noticed the anti-glare screen did not seem to have the texturing of the smaller models. Does Samsung use a different (and better) anti-glare screen on the larger DLPs ?
It's hard to say without looking at your set what's causing the "twinkling." I suspect that it's associated with the level of contrast but I'll know more once I'm over your house. Regarding the screen, its gain will have an impact on contrast and therefore perhaps the anomaly that you're currently seeing.

Why do I want to turn it off and why is it on? I've went into the screen menu and tried the demo of the DNIE and saw a difference but not dramatic. Does the new HLR models need the DNIE function off?
DNIe causes floating black, excessive edge enhancement, and horizontal banding. You always want it off!

Second, I changed my index delay but can't find where to change gamma.
The Gamma is located in the first service menu page (I believe - I'm not in front of your particular model).

And lastly for the super stupid question how do I get into the service menu again. Been there once but my pea brain can't recall how to get there again.
While the TV is turned off press, MUTE - 1 - 8 - 2 - POWER. Use the arrow and enter keys to navigate and power off to exit.

HD Hockey Guy,

How are you adjusting brightness and contrast after disabling DNIe?

Eliab

HD Hockey Guy,

How are you adjusting brightness and contrast after disabling DNIe?

Eliab


Is this a trick question?

If you mean if I'm adjusting it in the SM or the regular user menu - in the user menu. I did see the last 2 selections in the DNIe SM that adjusted brightness and contrast baselines, but decided to leave that alone since I'm not pushing 100 on any of them in the basic menu.

If you mean where have I adjusted it in comparison to prior to having DNIe disabled - I have turned contrast way down (83-88 compared to 92-97 prior) and Brightness up a bit - 54 seems my favorite right now, but some programming (like hockey) require it to be boosted up in the 60's.

So the edge enhancements are what is causing the 'softer' issues I'm seeing. It only happens really on some programming, but others (true HD content from recording to transmission I'm guessing) look amazing.

Any ideas why I am percieving a higher saturation level without DNIe? It's not a big deal really, but I am down at 40 on the color setting now.

Since I got my HLR5067w 6 weeks ago, I've been bothered by
(1) the obscenely high contrast of the default settings;
(2) obvious "graininess"/"noise"/"texture" of dark areas in low contrast scenes;
(3) extreme green cast to the same dark areas of low contrast scenes.

by fiddling around with various setting in the service menus, I've virtually eliminated all these problems without turning off DeNIE. I blew $30 for the service manual, which was a total waste of money unless you're interested in making board level repairs or understanding the details of the video circuits (I was interested only in calibration tips--there weren't many).

(1) can be fixed by turning down the user menu contrast settings from the default of 90 to about 60--70 (for the "standard" preset). OR:
Except for "my color control", all user menu settings are reset to the factory defaults every time you enter the service menus (how incredibly stupid engineers can be!) so if you're happy with using the default settings on the user menu, you can adjust the "sub-contrast" & "sub-brightness" for good PQ while you're in the service menus. The settings labeled "sub-contrast" provide a baseline contrast (actually white level--it would more accurately be called the "glare control") which controls the affect of a given setting in the corresponding user menu's contrast--i.e. moving sub-contrast down in the DeNIE menu causes the effect of (the default setting of) contrast=90 on the user menu to actually be lower contrast. Likewise, the DeNIE setting of "sub-brightness" provides a baseline for the user menu's brightness (actually black level) settings.
BTW, DeNIE is set up as follows on my set: TV mode and HDMI share settings; all Svideo inputs share settings; Component 1 and 2 each have their own settings; and the VGA PC input has its own settings.

(2) is much smaller then 16x16 pixels and so is, I believe, really MPEG quantization noise, an artifact of the low signal to noise ratio of MPEG encoding in dark areas, especially if the compression is quite high or the image has been encoded/decoded more then once or with a less-the-great encoder. Since I have trouble spelling "quantization" and being a photographer by training, I usually call this "dark-area-graininess". It's not really a "macroblock problem" as is often stated on this forum. Anyway, I found service menu items that fixed this:

(a) changing the "Index Delay". Mine was at 42. Using the test pattern in the index delay service menu, I found that the gray scale test pattern broke up (started changing color from gray) with settings below 28 and above 45. As advised in the service manual, I set mine to 36, the middle of the range.
BTW, the index delay is used to synchronize the electronics with the mechanics of the spinning color wheel--e.g. to make sure that the red signal happens just as the middle of the red segments of the color wheel pass in front of the light beam and not while part of the green filter is in the beam. Hence, it affects all inputs and varies slightly with each color wheel.

(b) changing the Gamma. Mine was at 4 and I wound up setting it to 1. The values run from 1--9; the service manual says it selects a lookup table, and it looks to me like they're arranged in random order because they bounce all over the place; e.g. 2 was almost identical to 4, but 3 was Much lighter and contrastier then either and much like 6--9. I found 1 & 2 were similar to 4 & 5 with 1 & 5 being darker then 2 & 4 and 1 & 2 being slightly darker and producing less dark-area-graininess then the others. All gammas above 5 where useless. Gamma is a system-wide setting.
I also turned down the Lamp Boost setting (also system-wide). Mine was at 15 and I lowered it to 0, which made the overall picture very slightly less bright. My theory is that this affects the voltage applied to the lamp, so a lower value will prolong lamp life. It might also change the color temp slightly, and I did notice (I think) a very slightly bluer color at 0 (although logic says the color temp should go warmer, not cooler). I did notice that if I turned the lamp boost up past 19, the picture turned significantly greener.

(3) can be largely eliminated by lowering the DeNIE setting called "Grn-B-coeff". This, of course, applies to all inputs in a DeNIE settings group. Mine was at 128 (as were all the "x-x-coeff" settings), reducing it to 115 for the HDMI input (which I use for my DVD player) cleaned up DVDs without noticeably affecting the TV input that shares the same DeNIE settings group. Nor does it seem to have a noticeable effect on high contrast images. I also lowered Component 2 (which I use for my SA8300HD STB) grn-B-coeff to 123.
There's also a "Grn-C-coeff" setting; I'm not sure what effect the two different Grn-x-coeff have (green-brightness and green-contrast?? one of these may have the same effect as the user mode "My color control" settings). Anyway, the Grn-B-coeff seems to work better for getting rid of green in dark areas of low contrast scenes, which is what I was after. My theory is that some combination of coeff (and possibly other DeNIE settings) can be used to get the same effect as the user mode Tint control would have if it was not disabled for some inputs.

BTW, the CCA settings are intended to correct for minor variations in the color/density of the filters from color wheel to color wheel. A replacement color wheel should come with a factory calibration label that specifies what the correct settings for that wheel. I think it works like this: the "D" settings in the right-hand column are the desired/target numbers for the desired color gambit space; the electronics manipulate the electronic signal to scale it from the actual value for that filter to match the desired value. Without an expensive colorimeter or paying for a calibration, it's pretty much impossible to calibrate CCA, so trusting the factory setup seems wise. Anyway, I've found that changing the settings quite a bit has virtually no noticeable effect on the image. CCA settings are grouped by inputs as follows: TV & HDMI; all Svideo; all Component; VGA/PC).

I found that Activator gain (mine was at 90; a system wide setting) made relatively little difference and you have to look at the test pattern Very closely to see any changes at all. It seems to affect sharpness/focus/convergence. (of course, there's no convergence per se in a DLP, since the same mirrors are used for all colors, but Activator Gain may effect the rise time of the signal that flips the mirrors, thus changing the timing of the mirrors. :)

dps-raleigh,

That's a lot of info to take in! My main problem is with the noisy and grainy darks. I think there may still be an issue with DNIE - dynamic or "floating" darks. I ran the DVE disk calibration last night (with an old DVD player on component) and saw a prime example of this problem. After the pluge test pattern with the 3 dark stripes on each side it talks about shifting dark levels and flashes an alternating test pattern. On my set, the darks shifted making the stripes lighter and darker based on what was around them. Is this supposed to be fixed when DNIE is off? Those of you have turned DNIE off and have DVE, can you confirm that this is overcome when DNIE is off? Not that you don't see it but that it was there and went away) becuase there may be a difference in HDMI and component and various players. Anyone??

Right now the 5067W is $200 cheaper than the 4667W. Is there something wrong with them or just a market fluke (prices from CNET.com)?

Fluke. Also, the HL-R4667 is darn difficult to find in retail (in checking with three different normally-stocking Samsung dealers, *none* have the HL-R4667 in stock); however, part of that problem is that the 4667 is sized like a plasma, but priced less than any LCD in its feature range). My stepsister has an older (and larger) Samsung DLP (56"), which I *know* has a fantastic picture (I've seen the set in action myself, and was impressed, even though I was considering a Sony LCD at the time). I'm now actively considering the 4667 as a bedroom TV (wall-mounted), even though 46" is the absolute largest screen size I can get away with wall-mounting (the issue in the case of the target wall is a *pipe corridor* coming from the floor above; the corridor sticks out of my bedroom wall to the right of the mount-point; the wall itself runs from my bedroom door to my walk-in closet, with the pipe corridor closest to the closet) because of the great picture, great features (it matches my original choice, the Sony KDL-V32XBR1, feature for feature) and killer pricetag (as I said, it severely undercuts any LCD in its feature range).

so would the average HD user benefit from turning the DNIE off or would the frequent DVD user benefit?

so would the average HD user benefit from turning the DNIE off or would the frequent DVD user benefit?

From my experience - the frequent DVD user the most, but both would benefit overall.

PGHammer, Check Costco for the HLR4667. They had it for 1499/stand... returnable anytime in the future if it breaks. beats BB price of $2099.

Anyone experience SD ghosting ? I'm seeing some pretty wide ghosting in high contrast areas...as in, a dark person or sillohuette against a light background.
Any adjustments that can alleviate?

dps-raleigh,

I made the same adjustments you detailed in an earlier post, and I must say they made a HUGE difference in the noise during dark scenes watching HD cable. I compared this DNIE Modified picture to the DNIE OFF picture, and IMHO the DNIE OFF picture just doesn't do it for me. I'm still debating whether or not to have it calibrated, but for now I'm satisfied. Thanks for the post.

dps-raleigh,

I made the same adjustments you detailed in an earlier post, and I must say they made a HUGE difference in the noise during dark scenes watching HD cable. I compared this DNIE Modified picture to the DNIE OFF picture, and IMHO the DNIE OFF picture just doesn't do it for me. I'm still debating whether or not to have it calibrated, but for now I'm satisfied. Thanks for the post.
Justin, Can you be more specific which adjustments you made? I'm a little leery about going into the SM and shutting down the DNIE. Just doesn't make sense to me why Samsung would put DNIE in there when most owners turn it off. Did you make your adjustments in the service menu or onscreen menu and can you recall what they were?

If you read through the last 2-3 pages of posts, it's been the hot topic. Those posts are very detailed about how and why to turn off DNIE.

Dps-raleigh's post on the last page is what I was referring to regarding the adjustments I just made.

Hello everyone,

Been reading the boards for awhile now and decided to join and get in on the discussions.

I first purchased the HL-R4266W and was happy with the set overall.
However, since I wanted to use it as a pc monitor, not having the pc input really sucked.

So last Saturday I returned it and got the HL-R5067W.
My pc looks FANTASIC on it. However I am having a MAJOR issue here and was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem and knows what is wrong and what has to be done to correct it.

I like to consider myself fairly knowledgeable with this stuff, I sell HDTV's with Boscov's and know the technologly fairly well.

I have my Direc TV HD reciever connected via HDMI, as well as my Sony DVD upconverter DVD Player. I also have my XBOX 360 connected via componet cables and running at 720p

Now here is the issue i am having.

BLACKS ARE HORRID! In fact, they aren't even black. I used the AVIA DVD to try n tweak my picture as i did on my previous set and nothing helps.

Blacks appear completely grey and washed out, you can see NO detail in anything black, and now it has a bunch of green tint over it as well, and I can see dotcrawl all long the black/green image. It's absoutely horrible. I never had this problem with the HL-R4266W.

I called Samsung and they are sending a tech out in a few days to check it out.

They told me if they can't fix it, they'll replace the set with the same model if they have any left, if they dont, they'll let me upgradge to the HLS 2006 50 inch model for $250

I'm wondering if this is an issue of greyscale being incorrect that can be fixed in the service menu, or is this an issue with the light engine? Or another issue all together.

I cant return it to my store because we don't have anymore Samsung DLP's and won't be carrying the 2006 models. And I really prefer the Samsung DLP picture over all the other brands.

Has anyone else experienced this issue, and we're they or a service tech able to get it resolved?

Any feedback would be greatly appreiceated! Thanks for reading my post.

Fluke. Also, the HL-R4667 is darn difficult to find in retail (in checking with three different normally-stocking Samsung dealers, *none* have the HL-R4667 in stock);

I bought mine from Amazon.com. Their price was $600 less then the local Best Buy and Circuit City stores (after considering delivery and taxes). I ordered it on Sunday and was watching it on the following Thursday afternoon. Only disadvantage is that you can't return it if you decide you don't like it, but $600 seemed a lot like to pay for that option that I didn't expect to need anyway. The delivery guys knew exactly what they were doing re unboxing and setting it up, having delivered dozens of the same brand. One of my better experiences. There was no technical expertise to rely on at Best Buy or Circuit City, so I didn't loose anything re tech support by going to Amazon.

...

BLACKS ARE HORRID! In fact, they aren't even black. I used the AVIA DVD to try n tweak my picture as i did on my previous set and nothing helps.

Blacks appear completely grey and washed out, you can see NO detail in anything black, and now it has a bunch of green tint over it as well, and I can see dotcrawl all long the black/green image. It's absoutely horrible. I never had this problem with the HL-R4266W.

I called Samsung and they are sending a tech out in a few days to check it out.

They told me if they can't fix it, they'll replace the set with the same model if they have any left, if they dont, they'll let me upgradge to the HLS 2006 50 inch model for $250

I'm wondering if this is an issue of greyscale being incorrect that can be fixed in the service menu, or is this an issue with the light engine? Or another issue all together.
...

Has anyone else experienced this issue, and we're they or a service tech able to get it resolved?

Any feedback would be greatly appreiceated! Thanks for reading my post.

I can't speak for the PC input, but othewise non-black blacks are NOT normal. Make sure you're viewing the image in a dark or fairly dark room. also, make sure you turn down the "brightness" control in the user menu, which really sets the balck level. If it's not a simple adjustment in the service menu, the tech will probably (should) replace the entire light engine (takes 5 minutes), which will certainly fix the problem because it replaces everything except the case and the screen.

Anyone experience SD ghosting ? I'm seeing some pretty wide ghosting in high contrast areas...as in, a dark person or sillohuette against a light background.
Any adjustments that can alleviate?

Try turning of the Noise Reduction setting in the menu... that fixed it for me.

I've tried everything in the regular options menu.

If I turn down brightness to like 35 it goes away, but then it's waaay to dark.

I have my tv in the same room I had my HL-R4266W in and never had this issue.

The issue has actually gotten worse since I posted about the issue.
I can see little black specs moving around on the screen. It's driving me crazy lol

I suppose I should just sit down, shut up n wait till next friday when the tech comes out but I was just hoping I could maybe do somethin to make it a little better till next Friday when they come out to fix it.

The only other tv i have in my house is my girlfriend's 20 inch tv, and playin XBOX360 on that isn't happening lol

I'm guessing the entire light engine is messed up.

The only other tv i have in my house is my girlfriend's 20 inch tv...


ROFL - I can only picture the "WHY" behind this little nugget of information...

Urvivor say, no ay way. Amsung say, only or fay aming gay?

hehehe she may be "hit say out of uck lay" until next week then.

At least the tv works.

I'll get to watch the last New Jersey Devils game of the year tomorrow in HD at least.

It's gonna look like crap but at least i'll be able to watch it. lol

Does anyone know if this green tint issue is common on Samsuing DLP'S?
Could this be a potential issue even when/if they replace the light engine?

BLACKS ARE HORRID! In fact, they aren't even black. I used the AVIA DVD to try n tweak my picture as i did on my previous set and nothing helps.

Blacks appear completely grey and washed out, you can see NO detail in anything black, and now it has a bunch of green tint over it as well, and I can see dotcrawl all long the black/green image. It's absoutely horrible. I never had this problem with the HL-R4266W.
Is your PQ terrible in dark scenes/shadows? Have you tried making any adjustments in the SM? You might want to try adjusting the Index Delay. If dark scene PQ is poor, this tweak should improve it. Just make sure you're viewing something when you adjust it. It's easier to tell if you're adjusting in the right direction if you're looking at a picture at the same time.

At least the tv works.

I'll get to watch the last New Jersey Devils game of the year tomorrow in HD at least.



OUCH! man... bite your tongue. It's not that much of a stretch for them compared to when they came back from 3-1 down vs. Philly to win the series 3-4 in 2000... That was when Philly was actually GOOD...

I did try changing the index delay.

It is set at 49, and anything else makes it worse.

There was a setting called SEC or somethin like that and it was set 0x5 when i changed it to 0x4 it looked alot better, but still not right at all.
I also adjusted the Gamma setting too and it didn't help out either.
Is there anything else in the service menu i can try that might help out?
What exactly does the index delay do anyways?



I remember when my Devils came back from 3-1 against Philly.
If they can win 15 straight, there's no reason why they can't win 4 I suppose.
Hopefully they can get it done.

I have an HL-R5667W with a new Oppo. Picture quality is great so far without caliration. When I try to calibrate the color on the set in " my color settings" instead of being able to see the normal screen that is displaying the inputted device i:e the DVD player, Sammy pre-programmed a picture of some cute chick with a background behind her so you can't slide the color bars and see DVE at the same time. Is there a way to get rid of this "spash" screen?

What exactly is Cinema Smooth Film-Mode 3:2 Pull Down? Is that only on 480i material? What does it do? Changes frame rate or something?

Is this a trick question?

If you mean if I'm adjusting it in the SM or the regular user menu - in the user menu. I did see the last 2 selections in the DNIe SM that adjusted brightness and contrast baselines, but decided to leave that alone since I'm not pushing 100 on any of them in the basic menu.

If you mean where have I adjusted it in comparison to prior to having DNIe disabled - I have turned contrast way down (83-88 compared to 92-97 prior) and Brightness up a bit - 54 seems my favorite right now, but some programming (like hockey) require it to be boosted up in the 60's.
No. I was asking because there's a right way and an incorrect way to adjust brightness and contrast on these displays. I wrote an article (http://americanwired.com/video/calibration3.html) with David Abrams on doing so with DVE but that'll only assist you with that source. That said, it'll be a little trickier for you to do so for your HD source unless you can download test patterns from HDNET.

So the edge enhancements are what is causing the 'softer' issues I'm seeing. It only happens really on some programming, but others (true HD content from recording to transmission I'm guessing) look amazing.
More likely than not - yes.

Any ideas why I am percieving a higher saturation level without DNIe? It's not a big deal really, but I am down at 40 on the color setting now.
The only way to properly adjust color on your display is to first turn off the CCA within the service menu. Once the color has been adjusted, you should turn it back on.

Regards,

Eliab

I searched everyuwhere I could think of, but couldnt find the answer to this:

How big is the box for the HL-R5067??? I am about to buy it, but plan on moving shortly, and want to know if it will fit in my vehicle, or If I will have to bum a friends help to move it??

It cant be much bigger than the dimensions of the TV... can it?

Was wondering if anyone that had an ISF calibrate their TV, can post their current settings. I would really appreciate it.

Also if you just did it by a program such as AVIVO please post yours as well.

I would apprecaite it if you stated if you had DNIe on or off and your index delay, as well as gamma.

I have a 56'' TV.

I searched everyuwhere I could think of, but couldnt find the answer to this:

How big is the box for the HL-R5067??? I am about to buy it, but plan on moving shortly, and want to know if it will fit in my vehicle, or If I will have to bum a friends help to move it??

It cant be much bigger than the dimensions of the TV... can it?

51" x 39" x 19" (W x H x D)

51" x 39" x 19" (W x H x D)

sweet, that fits nice and snugley in my crv; now to wait out the 10 day shipping...

Was wondering if anyone that had an ISF calibrate their TV, can post their current settings. I would really appreciate it.

Also if you just did it by a program such as AVIVO please post yours as well.

I would apprecaite it if you stated if you had DNIe on or off and your index delay, as well as gamma.

I have a 56'' TV.

I had mine ISF professionally calibrated. What works for me is not going to work for anyone else due to differences in sets, ambient lighting, etc.

I know that, however, if I cared that much about it, I would pay to get it calibrated. However I just want some settings to put in, as I can not do it by eye. So giving me yours, and letting me adjust it would be great.

so you want for free what someone else paid 400 dollars for

No. I was asking because there's a right way and an incorrect way to adjust brightness and contrast on these displays. I wrote an article (http://americanwired.com/video/calibration3.html) with David Abrams on doing so with DVE but that'll only assist you with that source. That said, it'll be a little trickier for you to do so for your HD source unless you can download test patterns from HDNET.


More likely than not - yes.


The only way to properly adjust color on your display is to first turn off the CCA within the service menu. Once the color has been adjusted, you should turn it back on.

Regards,

Eliab

I just re-calibrated w/ DNIE off and very impressed w/ the results in Movie mode. After turning off DNIE, redid contrast, brightness, and color w/ AVIA. Contrast and Brightness went up and color went down. My only concern is that my contrast is maxed at 100 and still could have gone higher based on the AVIA test pattern. Based on above quote, thing that I will go back in and recalibrate w/ CCA off.

HP GoF was much more watchable in the dark opening scenes and the flying on the hippogriff scenes in the PoA also showed more detail. In GoF, my wife thought the greens glowed. Went back in to DNIE and lowered the green_b_coeff from the original setting. Not only did the glowing go away but the caretaker's hat became brown. We thought that the cable channels were improved too. Below are my settings. Thanks to all for the helpful posts. -Brett

Factory DNIe settings

Setting Original Change
NR_MAX Y/C 48 0
NR_MIN Y/C 16 0
Core 4 0
B_RATIO 12000 0
BLACK_TILT 120 0
W_RATIO 12000 0
WHITE_TILT 200 0
GAIN 1X 16 0
GAIN 1Y 12 0
GAIN 2X 16 0
GAIN 2Y 4 0
GAIN 3X 1 0
NDON on off
CORING_ON on off
SCALE_R 92 0
WTE_CSC YCCRGB YCCRGB
Dither_Mod 0 0
Red_C_Coeff 128 128
Grn_C_Coeff 128 128
Blu_C_Coeff 128 128
Red_B_Coeff 128 128
Grn_B_Coeff 128 120
Blu_B_Coeff 128 128
Sub Contrast5 105 105
Sub Brightness 235 235
Alphau/l 50 50

Mode Movie
Contrast 100
Brightness 65
Color 41

Here is a post on another Samsung HL-R thread that shows how to connect your computer with no overscan and a 1:1 pixel mapping.

The post is here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7657443&&#post7657443)

-Valkyrie-MT
Samsung HL-R4667W

so you want for free what someone else paid 400 dollars for

Thanks Matthew. Regardless, there is no way I am going into the SM and risk messing anything up. Furthermore, the viewing distance. size (mine is the 50") personal taste, ambient lighting and not to mention that each set varies. I just got a new LE, a Zeiss, and it came with a settings sheet for that particular LE. Had to have it calibrated again.

jblade, I couldn't do it myself either. That's why I paid to have it done. If you can afford it, I highly recommend having it calibrated. The PQ is well worth it.

51" x 39" x 19" (W x H x D)

I would have to lay this down in our Subaru Outback to get it home.

Are there issues with these sets getting transported on their front or back?

Never do that if you are not sure about it. I remember one post in this thread warned that a certain part in the optical assembly will not reinstate after you lay it flat.

Well, I turned off DNIE last nigth in the SM. Thanks for the tip on pressing the "prev" button to speed up the process. It was fairly easy and only took about 15 min. I did confirm with Samsung that DNIE is always on for all inputs before killing it. It seems to have helped with shifting dark levels and definetely did not make the picture look any worse for any of my inputs . Some of my SM DNIE defults were different than posted so make sure to capture all of these settings before starting. Movie mode seems to be far superior when calibrated with DVE although there is still a slight green tint that some have mentioned. My gamma is set to 1 but I'm not convinced that I want to leave it there yet. The main problem I have been having was with pixellation in dark scenes. I have found several minor improvements that have made a better picture but I am conviced that it is mostly due to the DVD material. I will continue to evaluate the shifting dark issue and edit this post.

*following the procedure to zero out all the values in the DNIE SM definetly eliminates shifting dark levels. Used DVE brightness troubleshooting pluge.

Well, I turned off DNIE last nigth in the SM. Thanks for the tip on pressing the "prev" button to speed up the process. It was fairly easy and only took about 15 min. I did confirm with Samsung that DNIE is always on for all inputs before killing it. It seems to have helped with shifting dark levels and definetely did not make the picture look any worse for any of my inputs . Some of my SM DNIE defults were different than posted so make sure to capture all of these settings before starting. Movie mode seems to be far superior when calibrated with DVE although there is still a slight green tint that some have mentioned. My gamma is set to 1 but I'm not convinced that I want to leave it there yet. The main problem I have been having was with pixellation in dark scenes. I have found several minor improvements that have made a better picture but I am conviced that it is mostly due to the DVD material. I will continue to evaluate the shifting dark issue and edit this post.
Has anyone heard anything about the prospect of Samsung releasing a new version of the firmware for the HLR series? A month or so ago, someone here said that a 3rd level tech acknowledged the macroblocking problem and the possible/probably fix would be a firmware upgrade. Sure, it sounds doubtful that they would actually do this anytime soon (if at all), but I'd still like to know what people think. Also, would be nice if they added a SIMPLE way to turn off their useless DNIe setting... Especially since there is a simple way to do this on the 2006 sets. I would guess that this option was added due to a high level of consumer complaints.

Another question... Just got back from CC, looking at new receivers. I don't want to spend more than $300, so I was looking at a Sony STR-DE698 and an Onkyo TX-SR504... Both offer "AV-Sync", which will supposedly sync your audio with your (lagged) video. Does anyone have any experience with this feature? I doubt it's adjustable at all -- I was told that you need to pipe your video thru the receiver in order to enjoy its benefit... And it only offers component, not HDMI.

Any signal degradation expected as a result of piping the video thru the receiver before it hits the TV? And finally, since the TV is the source of the lag (and not the DVD player), would anyone expect this "AV-Sync" feature to even help? I am thinking no.

... Also, would be nice if they added a SIMPLE way to turn off their useless DNIe setting... Especially since there is a simple way to do this on the 2006 sets...

I wouldn't count on it..the new ones have it though. One thing I did notice but haven't tried yet. The Remote codes that you can download to program universal remotes for my set had a DNIE button that looked promising, not just a demo. I want to try it and see if our remote just doesn't have it. I need to borrow a remote to try it. I'll update if successful.

I wouldn't count on it..the new ones have it though. One thing I did notice but haven't tried yet. The Remote codes that you can download to program universal remotes for my set had a DNIE button that looked promising, not just a demo. I want to try it and see if our remote just doesn't have it. I need to borrow a remote to try it. I'll update if successful.
I tried this with my Harmony H695 and it either had no effect or simply activated that worthless demo mode... At least I'm pretty sure. I will try it again today and see.

Has anyone confirmed that turning off DNIe is simply a matter of zeroing out those entries in the DNIe menu as posted in the previous page? I'm concerned about affecting other aspects of the picture. Any professional calibrators want to share?

Has anyone confirmed that turning off DNIe is simply a matter of zeroing out those entries in the DNIe menu as posted in the previous page? I'm concerned about affecting other aspects of the picture. Any professional calibrators want to share?
Eliab, a professional calibrator, is the one that posted the instructions here. His are what have been discussed here in the past couple/few weeks.

That's great! I found Eliab's post after doing a search on this thread. That puts my mind at ease at least.

Thanks!

I would have to lay this down in our Subaru Outback to get it home.

Are there issues with these sets getting transported on their front or back?


Just make sure the screen is facing up. At least that's what the salesman made sure my HL-R5067 was facing when he helped me load it up. I wasn't sure why at that time. I think I read somewhere later that it's to keep any dust or debris from falling onto the screen.

Randy

Question:

You know how some electronics you buy, the manufacturer sends you letters during the first year offering an extended warranty? Does Samsung do this with the DLPs? I ask because my retailer did not have an extended warranty available.

Thanks.

Another question... Just got back from CC, looking at new receivers. I don't want to spend more than $300, so I was looking at a Sony STR-DE698 and an Onkyo TX-SR504... Both offer "AV-Sync", which will supposedly sync your audio with your (lagged) video. Does anyone have any experience with this feature? I doubt it's adjustable at all -- I was told that you need to pipe your video thru the receiver in order to enjoy its benefit... And it only offers component, not HDMI.

Any signal degradation expected as a result of piping the video thru the receiver before it hits the TV? And finally, since the TV is the source of the lag (and not the DVD player), would anyone expect this "AV-Sync" feature to even help? I am thinking no.[/QUOTE]

Suggest you check out the receivers subsection of the Audio section of this forum. Panasonic has a new receiver Sr-57, due for release in June that appears to be a great value, based on opinions regarding its predecessor Sr-55. Fits your budget, too.

Habu

Apparently you *can* replace the lamp on Samsung DLP TVs *yourself*. There's even a section in the manual *walking you through* the process. This, of course, applies to *all* of the DLP models. For once, a company that doesn't think we're all thumb-fingered and ham-handed dolts!

PGHammer, Check Costco for the HLR4667. They had it for 1499/stand... returnable anytime in the future if it breaks. beats BB price of $2099.


That's a nice option. I also have another wholesale club that I can check with (BB's lowered that price since your post). I have nothing against Costco (two *different* Costcos are near me), and their return policy is a heck of a safety net.

Additional Information: The only Samsung Costco has is the 56" model (WAY too big for my bedroom); however, my plan B has the 4667 for under $1600 (I'll be wall-mounting it; however, I'll call *both* Costcos and see if they will get the 4667 in stock)

I bought mine from Amazon.com. Their price was $600 less then the local Best Buy and Circuit City stores (after considering delivery and taxes). I ordered it on Sunday and was watching it on the following Thursday afternoon. Only disadvantage is that you can't return it if you decide you don't like it, but $600 seemed a lot like to pay for that option that I didn't expect to need anyway. The delivery guys knew exactly what they were doing re unboxing and setting it up, having delivered dozens of the same brand. One of my better experiences. There was no technical expertise to rely on at Best Buy or Circuit City, so I didn't loose anything re tech support by going to Amazon.

I am extremely used to paying cash (or no worse than a check) for everything (I've never owned a new car) and with the horrendous finance charges on plastic (and the nearly equally odious bank fees on both checks and check cards), even that is looking to be nearly as evil. Plus I do my own due-dilligence (rely on big-box retailers for that sort of advice? Oh, please!), so I can thus shop strictly on price. However, quite a few people, while they may be just as likely to do their own due dilligence, are not as capable of shunning the big-box retailers as I am (I have both Costco and other wholesale outfit that I can buy from (the outfit is national, and has locations throughout the US; however, they are membership-only, and their standards are a lot stricter than those of Costco), and they have no problems with accepting cash). I simply use the showrooms as places to actually get an idea of how the set itself looks (even as badly *misadjusted* as the TVs usually are). Because the wholesaler has a local location (and I also own a pickup truck) I need only wait for the TV to arrive once I pull the trigger (and they would notify me via both phone *and* e-mail when it arrives) or I can even set up delivery in advance (for smaller items, they can also ship UPS). By contrast, most online retailers (and this includes Amazon) accept either credit cards or PayPal (neither of which is an option for me).

So I don't buy from BB or CC except in extremis for larger items. For cables? Most certainly (and that is because I'm trying to avoid delivery lag) I'll go to them, but then I know what I'm looking for, and thus don't rely on salespeople.

I confirmed that DNIE definetely causes shifting black levels. Under the troubleshooting section of DVE, there is a a test that alternates the brightness pluge pattern with a (majority) black and white background. When DNIE is on the bars would appear and dissapear based on the background. When it is off, the pluge pattern bars are always seen at the same level.

Question:

You know how some electronics you buy, the manufacturer sends you letters during the first year offering an extended warranty? Does Samsung do this with the DLPs? I ask because my retailer did not have an extended warranty available.

Thanks.

I can't answer your question directly, but if you register online or fill out the warranty card and mail it in, Samsung will add 3 months to the 12 month warranty.

HOWEVER, everyone needs to call them as they only had me at 12 months and added the additional 3 months over the phone (even though they had a record of my registration).

I am extremely used to paying cash (or no worse than a check) for everything (I've never owned a new car) and with the horrendous finance charges on plastic (and the nearly equally odious bank fees on both checks and check cards), even that is looking to be nearly as evil. Plus I do my own due-dilligence (rely on big-box retailers for that sort of advice? Oh, please!), so I can thus shop strictly on price. However, quite a few people, while they may be just as likely to do their own due dilligence, are not as capable of shunning the big-box retailers as I am (I have both Costco and other wholesale outfit that I can buy from (the outfit is national, and has locations throughout the US; however, they are membership-only, and their standards are a lot stricter than those of Costco), and they have no problems with accepting cash). I simply use the showrooms as places to actually get an idea of how the set itself looks (even as badly *misadjusted* as the TVs usually are). Because the wholesaler has a local location (and I also own a pickup truck) I need only wait for the TV to arrive once I pull the trigger (and they would notify me via both phone *and* e-mail when it arrives) or I can even set up delivery in advance (for smaller items, they can also ship UPS). By contrast, most online retailers (and this includes Amazon) accept either credit cards or PayPal (neither of which is an option for me).

So I don't buy from BB or CC except in extremis for larger items. For cables? Most certainly (and that is because I'm trying to avoid delivery lag) I'll go to them, but then I know what I'm looking for, and thus don't rely on salespeople.

After lots of research online and viewing several sets I negotiated a good price at a national store with small, nice viewing areas in their showroom. They ended up being out of the set I wanted so with their price in hand and the sales guy fudging on my behalf (said they had them in stock) I walked across the parking lot to CC to purchase it. I negotiated the price further and I paid with my debit card. I then surfed all retailers carrying my set for the next 30 days and when CC dropped their price first I called and got a large chunk of change back using their 110% price guarantee. So if you know what you want the big box stores are fine. Just don't rely on the sales pitch or how the sets look.

For me, I wanted to purchase locally so a swap would be easier if needed. I wound up paying several hundred dollars less than the retail price. But then I feel comfortable driving a hard bargain and made the time to watch prices for the next month. Being armed with information helps a lot before ordering or purchasing,

FYI, some showrooms have their sets professionally calibrated and then people wonder why they don't look as good at home. The big box stores AFAIK do not bother with calibration but some showrooms definetaly do.

Your best bet is to buy an extended warranty from a third pary. You can get it as long as there is still 90 days left on the manufacturers warranty (wouldn't count on the extra 3 months without calling them). You just get coverage for a certain dollar amount for a set time period. Another 4 year for $2000 was $185 through Repairmaster? You can order it online and they will send you the paperwork. Doesn't usually cover the bulb.

Does anybody have information about repairing scratches on the screen?? A warrning to anybody with young kids...get a screen guard!

Last night, I disabled DNIe as per Eliab's post on how to do this.

I then went out of the SM and tried the DNIe demo mode to see what would happen. I was a little surpised to see that the demo mode still worked. By toggling back and forth between demo on and off, I could see that my tv was now permanently in the DNIe off mode.

At first, I thought the picture looked a little soft. I turned to a HD source, Thirteen HD, and luckily they were showing a program on Scotland which had a ton of detailed landscapes. Toggling back and forth between DNIe demo on and off, I could see what kind of effect DNIe was having on the picture. In short, DNIe does way too much edge sharpening resulting in a significant loss of fine detail. In the landscape shots, you could easily see how much detail was being lost by this over-processing. All the fine lines were being exaggerated and thickened such that they merged together. DNIe only gives the appearance of a sharper and more constrasty picture but in reality you are losing much more.

Thanks to Eliab for getting rid of this crap.

It has been about 1 week since Eliab worked his magic on my 46" set, and I can say for me it was $$$ well spent. In simple terms, the picture has more of a "3D" look to it. There just appears to be more depth to objects, and though I may just be imagining this, the calibration seems to have improved (widened) my viewing angle from side-to-side. The second most notable improvement is just more visible detail, probably attributed mostly to proper contrast and brightness. Eliab did note that I was off with my brightness setting (too high). Third improvement would be more vivid colors, including facial tones that just seem to be more realistic. Lastly, there was a decent improvement in macro-blocking, though not entirely eliminated. I've watched some dark DVD scenes where I was expecting to see macro-blocking (and pretty sure I would have seen it before the calibration), but the picture stayed clean.

I also want to say that Eliab was extremely professional and courteous, and I would recommend his services whole-heartedly. I was even surprised at how willing Eliab was to teach me some tricks of the trade. He did not hesitate to answer my questions and offered lots of good advice. The only area I think could be improved is the documentation, and I know Eliab (Avical) is working on providing a more formal report in the future. Eliab wrote up a summary report with the proper settings, but it would have been the icing on the cake to get a computer-generated report with even more detail showing numerical as well as graphical before and after results.

If you are a fanatic about movie viewing, I think a professional calibration is a must. If not, your decision will be a little more difficult because of the cost.

I was a little surpised to see that the demo mode still worked. By toggling back and forth between demo on and off, I could see that my tv was now permanently in the DNIe off mode.

I had the opposite experience (maybe just interpretation) with the demo button. In fact, before I disable it I noticed that the demo mode was messed up. By toggling it on and off I noticed that the demo "results" actually seemed to be off during normal movie viewing. The "off" demo half did not change from what I was watching while the "on" half was altered. After turning it off, the demo did the same thing. Maybe its a separate circuit/algorithm in the set but the only way I could tell it was off was by running an alternating background pluge test to identify floating dark levels.

Wonder if you can get kicked off this thread for spamming:) Just answered another question that may be useful for the rest of you in the future.

You can get a replacement screen. My local service center wasn't much help. Sears, on the other hand, was extremely helpful. The screen is actuall divided into two screen an iner Fresnel screen and an outer lenticular screen that are "sealed" together. It is possible to order the outer screen for about $140 or the both pre-assembled for $250. Sounds like you have to be really careful and if you ruin it you are out a lot more so just get both and DIY. Of couse they have service techs that will come out and do it too. Now I need to find out how bad it is to get the screen off.

I tried this with my Harmony H695 and it either had no effect or simply activated that worthless demo mode... At least I'm pretty sure. I will try it again today and see.
Tried it again... Using the code that the Harmony H695 had for DNIe simply activated the useless DNIe Demo Mode.

Is there anyway to check the bulb hours used? Thanks

Is there anyway to check the bulb hours used? Thanks

With power off, on the remote, push mute, 1, 8, 2, power. Comes on saying "Factory Loading". Arrow down to "Option" and press enter. The next screen has the lamp info. Left and right arrows will change things. Be careful! Pressing the menu button will take you back to the first screen. Power off, then back on in one second to exit the service menu without re-striking the lamp.

Use the search to search this thread for SM and you will find lots of info on the service mode, how to navigate, and what changes others have made.

I had the opposite experience (maybe just interpretation) with the demo button. In fact, before I disable it I noticed that the demo mode was messed up. By toggling it on and off I noticed that the demo "results" actually seemed to be off during normal movie viewing. The "off" demo half did not change from what I was watching while the "on" half was altered. After turning it off, the demo did the same thing. Maybe its a separate circuit/algorithm in the set but the only way I could tell it was off was by running an alternating background pluge test to identify floating dark levels.

I tried DNIe demo mode last night on one of my inputs which still had DNIe enabled and guess what, I found exactly the same thing as you. Even with DNIe enabled, the demo mode was showing that I was in the DNIe off mode. What gives here? The demo mode seems to be totally bogus.

Has anyone been able to connect their DNet port on the TV to a PC's firewire port? I'm interested in being able to capture the Mpeg2 stream from the TV and record onto my PC's harddrive. It would also be nice to go in the other direction and play Mpeg2 files directly from my PC.

Thanks.

Has anyone been able to connect their DNet port on the TV to a PC's firewire port? I'm interested in being able to capture the Mpeg2 stream from the TV and record onto my PC's harddrive. It would also be nice to go in the other direction and play Mpeg2 files directly from my PC.

Thanks.

I'm pretty sure it doesn't work that way. I think you can only input video. Like maybe a firewire camcorder, or firewire set-top boxes that some cable companies put out or something?

I'm pretty sure it doesn't work that way. I think you can only input video. Like maybe a firewire camcorder, or firewire set-top boxes that some cable companies put out or something?

That's not true. You are supposed to be able to hook up DVHS decks to record video. It's stated in the user manual.

That's not true. You are supposed to be able to hook up DVHS decks to record video. It's stated in the user manual.

That's good. I would also like to know then more of what we can do with the firewire and how to do it. Seem like it is an interesting technology to have on the sets, and I wish we used it more.

I have a question that I don't think has ever come up, but I could be wrong. Within the SM of the xx67 series, there is a Xilleon226 menu. This menu contains only three options, one being a "Filter". The default is gh121a, but several others (I like hd314 and hd337a) provide enhanced edge detail and sharpness without the drawbacks of DNIe.

It appears that regardless of the filter chosen in that menu (which is a global setting) the system does not keep the selected one active. If one changes the source while in the SM, the filter setting reverts back to gh121a even though the setting in the menu still shows the selected filter. (Of course this will go back to the desired filter by modifying the setting one step back - one step forward.) And after leaving the SM, the filter setting doesn't stay active. I've tested this by enabling the last filter which places a visible vertical grid over the video and restarting the system. The grid disappears.

While this is not mission-critical, it would be nice to know if there's a way to force one of those filters. If not, why is that chip/menu selection even available? Is it for diagnostics only?

Thanks for any advice.

That's good. I would also like to know then more of what we can do with the firewire and how to do it. Seem like it is an interesting technology to have on the sets, and I wish we used it more.

Currently I am outputting firewire from my SA STB to my TV and my HTPC. The HTPC detected the tuners from my TV due to the daisy chaining, but haven't found drivers yet for the TV tuners :)

Not every channel from my STB will output via firewire. I have not made a list of which do or do not to discern any pattern. The TV PQ of firewire content seems to be great, but not leaps and bounds better than component or hdmi. The firewire output from the STB to the TV does include audio.

On the HTPC side, the firewire allows recording and channel changing from the STB. See this link (http://thegreenbutton.com/forums/thread/44138.aspx)

That's good. I would also like to know then more of what we can do with the firewire and how to do it. Seem like it is an interesting technology to have on the sets, and I wish we used it more.

With these sets and a Comcast HD DVR box, DVHS makes a lot of sense. You can even get the simplier mits model that only has firewire output(not component) since our TV's have the firewire input. Great way to record HD, but it's definetly a niche market.

I don't think the firewire ports output anything. I believe they are only inputs. Devices that can be plugged into them include HD cable boxes, DVHS decks, digital camcorders.

Currently I am outputting firewire from my SA STB to my TV and my HTPC. The HTPC detected the tuners from my TV due to the daisy chaining, but haven't found drivers yet for the TV tuners :)

Not every channel from my STB will output via firewire. I have not made a list of which do or do not to discern any pattern. The TV PQ of firewire content seems to be great, but not leaps and bounds better than component or hdmi. The firewire output from the STB to the TV does include audio.

On the HTPC side, the firewire allows recording and channel changing from the STB. See this link (http://thegreenbutton.com/forums/thread/44138.aspx)

So I guess, right now there is no way of streaming mpeg2 through firewire from the Samsung DLP to the PC in either direction? In theory, it should be possible to write a driver that will make the PC look like a DVHS deck to the Samsung. Hopefully, someone will come out with something.

you can stream from the tv to the pc... u used vlc to stream hd over my network from the tv. i believe i used the same method that you would use to output from the SA boxes to the computer

I have a question that I don't think has ever come up, but I could be wrong. Within the SM of the xx67 series, there is a Xilleon226 menu. This menu contains only three options, one being a "Filter". The default is gh121a, but several others (I like hd314 and hd337a) provide enhanced edge detail and sharpness without the drawbacks of DNIe.

It appears that regardless of the filter chosen in that menu (which is a global setting) the system does not keep the selected one active. If one changes the source while in the SM, the filter setting reverts back to gh121a even though the setting in the menu still shows the selected filter. (Of course this will go back to the desired filter by modifying the setting one step back - one step forward.) And after leaving the SM, the filter setting doesn't stay active. I've tested this by enabling the last filter which places a visible vertical grid over the video and restarting the system. The grid disappears.

While this is not mission-critical, it would be nice to know if there's a way to force one of those filters. If not, why is that chip/menu selection even available? Is it for diagnostics only?

Thanks for any advice.


great question - and good catch on the settings not staying if they don't - i tried bumping up to the gh221 or whatever it is and thought it stayed, but it must not have if what you're saying it true.

maybe eliab will have an answer for this one...

I have the HLR4667W and I already have the DVI port taken with my cable stb. Can I get a DVI to HDMI cable and use that for my HTPC? Or are the DVI and HDMI ports on the samsung "shared".

there is no dvi port on the 4667. dunno what ur talking about

I have the HLR4667W and I already have the DVI port taken with my cable stb. Can I get a DVI to HDMI cable and use that for my HTPC? Or are the DVI and HDMI ports on the samsung "shared".

I have the same set. There is 1 HDMI port on it, but you can use a DVI to HDMI cable for a DVI component and input the audio via analog. Only one DVI or HDMI connection though can be done.

there is no dvi port on the 4667. dunno what ur talking about

Of course MatthewR and Ayrton911 are right. There is only one HDMI port on the 4667 and no dvi. Trueimage, you need to be more clear when you post on this forum and always remind people that you don't have a 4667. The 4664 is different from the 4667 specifically with respect to this feature. The 4664 is the Canadian version of the 4667, but they are different in a few ways. The 4667 has one HDMI and an ATSC tuner, and the 4664 also has an HDMI, but instead of an ATSC tuner, it has a DVI input. Also, the 4664 used the HD3 DLP chip whereas the 4667 uses the HD4. The only difference between the two (I think) is just constrast ratio is better with the HD4.

Now, to answer your original question, they should be completey independent inputs. If you have the VGA port available, this is by far the best option for connecting an HTPC to this TV (via a VGA-VGA cable or if you have a DVI-I output on your video card, you can use a DVI-to-VGA cable). If the VGA port is already used by something else, if I were you, I would try to use the HDMI for your STB and the DVI for your PC because the PC fine-tuning may be available for the DVI input. You should contact your cable provider and see if you can swap out your STB with the same model that has an HDMI output. In some areas they will do this for you.

Actually, I wish I had a 4664 instead of a 4667. Trueimage, if/when you get your HTPC connected to the DVI, I am really curious to know if you have the option to access the PC fine-tuning in the Samsung menu... Please send me a message if the 4664 has this, because the HDMI has this disabled which sucks for me on a 4667...

Thanks and Good Luck,
-Valkyrie-MT

extra dvi port instead of ATSC tuner? i think i'd take that.

Of course MatthewR and Ayrton911 are right. There is only one HDMI port on the 4667 and no dvi. Trueimage, you need to be more clear when you post on this forum and always remind people that you don't have a 4667. The 4664 is different from the 4667 specifically with respect to this feature. The 4664 is the Canadian version of the 4667, but they are different in a few ways. The 4667 has one HDMI and an ATSC tuner, and the 4664 also has an HDMI, but instead of an ATSC tuner, it has a DVI input. Also, the 4664 used the HD3 DLP chip whereas the 4667 uses the HD4. The only difference between the two (I think) is just constrast ratio is better with the HD4.

Now, to answer your original question, they should be completey independent inputs. If you have the VGA port available, this is by far the best option for connecting an HTPC to this TV (via a VGA-VGA cable or if you have a DVI-I output on your video card, you can use a DVI-to-VGA cable). If the VGA port is already used by something else, if I were you, I would try to use the HDMI for your STB and the DVI for your PC because the PC fine-tuning may be available for the DVI input. You should contact your cable provider and see if you can swap out your STB with the same model that has an HDMI output. In some areas they will do this for you.

Actually, I wish I had a 4664 instead of a 4667. Trueimage, if/when you get your HTPC connected to the DVI, I am really curious to know if you have the option to access the PC fine-tuning in the Samsung menu... Please send me a message if the 4664 has this, because the HDMI has this disabled which sucks for me on a 4667...

Thanks and Good Luck,
-Valkyrie-MT

Thanks very much, and I apologise for thinking they were the same exactly.

Right now I am just swapping the DVI cable I have back and forth between my htpc which I am setting up and my cable stb. The stb doesnt have hdmi only dvi. Why would VGA be the best option for the htpc? Isnt VGA analog and DVI digital? (I assumed the connection on the back of the PC was DVI-D, and I was about to buy a DVI-D dual link cable, right now I have a DVI-D single link cable. For the STB I was going to use a DVI-D dual link cable with a DVI-D single link female to HDMI male adapter.

Also, if by pc fine-tuning you mean p-mode PW wide and I can move the image and zoom the image, then yes, DVI has it.

You're right, if you can get it to work, DVI-D is technically better than VGA... the difference between VGA and the DVI-D is that VGA is analog and DVI-D is Digital. The DVI connector can also transmit an Analog signal (DVI-I or DVI-A). But, ultimately, your graphics card takes the digital image of your computer, converts it to analog to transmit over the VGA cable and in the TV, the signal gets converted back to digital. So, as long as you use short, well shieded cables (6 feet or less), your picture should be perfect. But, with your 4664 you're in a unique situation. DVI may be a better choice for connecting your htpc (This does not apply to the 4667), but only if you have the PC menu enabled under DVI. Switch to DVI on your TV and open your menu and see if you can get into the PC menu as shown in this screenshot:

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/8683/dsc02031large2pf.th.jpg (http://img508.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02031large2pf.jpg)

Basically, an input is usable for an htpc only if you can access this menu, because the image must be "Auto Adjusted" from an htpc to look good. In previous Samsung models (HLN series) you could auto-adjust a PC image over the DVI input.

If you can access this PC menu from DVI, this is what I would do if I were you:
Get a DVI-to-HDMI cable for your cable box to connect to the HDMI input on your TV (although, if you use the built-in speakers on the TV, I don't know what will happen with the audio which is supposed to come over the HDMI, check the manual). Then, connect your computer DVI-D to DVI-D. In this configuration, if you have an nVidia graphics card, you will have great options to compensate for TV overscan because HDTV support works great over DVI-D with nVidia.

If you don't have access to the PC menu, from DVI, I'd do this:
Connect you cable box via DVI as you are doing now and connect your htpc to the VGA input. Then, you can use WidePC mode on your TV to display a slightly distorted 1280x720 PC image (which is fine for most people). Or you can follow my previous posts to setup a custom resolution with a 1:1 pixel mapping to avoid distortion and overscan...

Or, you can keep swapping cables, but I think that would get old...

-Valkyrie-MT

Thanks very much, and I apologise for thinking they were the same exactly.

Right now I am just swapping the DVI cable I have back and forth between my htpc which I am setting up and my cable stb. The stb doesnt have hdmi only dvi. Why would VGA be the best option for the htpc? Isnt VGA analog and DVI digital? (I assumed the connection on the back of the PC was DVI-D, and I was about to buy a DVI-D dual link cable, right now I have a DVI-D single link cable. For the STB I was going to use a DVI-D dual link cable with a DVI-D single link female to HDMI male adapter.

Also, if by pc fine-tuning you mean p-mode PW wide and I can move the image and zoom the image, then yes, DVI has it.

you can stream from the tv to the pc... u used vlc to stream hd over my network from the tv. i believe i used the same method that you would use to output from the SA boxes to the computer

MatthewR, are you saying that you were able to stream the Mpeg2 output from your Samsung TV to your PC? If so, I'd be real interested in finding out how.

Thanks.

Ok, as I mentionned before, I have the PC Wide setting, and I can adjust the image myself over DVI. But I do not get access to the PC menu.

What about a DVI-D cable and a DVI to VGA adapter to use the DVI port on my HTPC and the VGA port on the DLP?

Do the newer models (2006) let you use the PC menu with DVI or HDMI? Because I will probably upgrade to a 1080p set within a year.

Thanks,

Josh

You're right, if you can get it to work, DVI-D is technically better than VGA... the difference between VGA and the DVI-D is that VGA is analog and DVI-D is Digital. The DVI connector can also transmit an Analog signal (DVI-I or DVI-A). But, ultimately, your graphics card takes the digital image of your computer, converts it to analog to transmit over the VGA cable and in the TV, the signal gets converted back to digital. So, as long as you use short, well shieded cables (6 feet or less), your picture should be perfect. But, with your 4664 you're in a unique situation. DVI may be a better choice for connecting your htpc (This does not apply to the 4667), but only if you have the PC menu enabled under DVI. Switch to DVI on your TV and open your menu and see if you can get into the PC menu as shown in this screenshot:

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/8683/dsc02031large2pf.th.jpg (http://img508.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc02031large2pf.jpg)

Basically, an input is usable for an htpc only if you can access this menu, because the image must be "Auto Adjusted" from an htpc to look good. In previous Samsung models (HLN series) you could auto-adjust a PC image over the DVI input.

If you can access this PC menu from DVI, this is what I would do if I were you:
Get a DVI-to-HDMI cable for your cable box to connect to the HDMI input on your TV (although, if you use the built-in speakers on the TV, I don't know what will happen with the audio which is supposed to come over the HDMI, check the manual). Then, connect your computer DVI-D to DVI-D. In this configuration, if you have an nVidia graphics card, you will have great options to compensate for TV overscan because HDTV support works great over DVI-D with nVidia.

If you don't have access to the PC menu, from DVI, I'd do this:
Connect you cable box via DVI as you are doing now and connect your htpc to the VGA input. Then, you can use WidePC mode on your TV to display a slightly distorted 1280x720 PC image (which is fine for most people). Or you can follow my previous posts to setup a custom resolution with a 1:1 pixel mapping to avoid distortion and overscan...

Or, you can keep swapping cables, but I think that would get old...

-Valkyrie-MT

MatthewR, are you saying that you were able to stream the Mpeg2 output from your Samsung TV to your PC? If so, I'd be real interested in finding out how.

Thanks.

my computer was able detect and use drivers for the samsung tv. i was able to stream audio and video using VLC media player to my other computer on my network also using vlc media player. i havent' had this setup in a while and i don't have my firewire cable with me because i'm in the middle of a move but it deffinitly worked. i was streaming HD (although choppy, probably because the computer i was trying to watch on was a p3 800). without a doubt the firewire on our tv's works both ways

The DVI-D cable actually does not have the pins for the analog signal that the VGA input needs. You need a cable that has VGA on one end and DVI-A on the other. Or if you want a cable that may be more useful for other stuff, you can get a DVI-I cable (supports digital and analog) plus a DVI-I to VGA adapter. But, the DVI-I cable can't plug into the DVI-D on your TV because Samsung used a DVI-D port on the TV which will physically prevent a DVI-I plug from going in... I actually started with the DVI-I cable + adapter at first, but the adapters stick out pretty far and the DVI-I cable is very thick because it has all the wires for Digital and Analog in it. I eventually broke down and replaced it with a DVI-A to VGA cable for simplicity. I think this (http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=2801&sku=26954) is the one I got, which is what I would recommend. Remember, that only works if your graphics card has a DVI-I output port! A DVI-D output port will not work!

Notice the differences between the different DVI plugs:
http://www.datapro.net/images/dvi-config.jpg

A cable or input that supports analog always has the 4 pins around the large flat pin. If you look at the input on your Samsung TV, I think you'll find that it does not have the the 4 "analog" pins.

With respect to the 2006 models (HLS), it looks like the HLN may have been the last Samsung DLP to support the PC over DVI. I copied this out of an HLS User Manual: "NOTE • You cannot connect this TV to a PC via HDMI/DVI." But, there is a new video+audio card coming out that may allow you to connect HDMI from HTPC to TV. See it here (http://www.sapphiretech.com/en/products/graphics_overview.php?gpid=145). But, a graphics card with HDMI would not be officially supported, but if it is implemented correctly in the graphics card, it should work...

-Valkyrie-MT

Ok, as I mentionned before, I have the PC Wide setting, and I can adjust the image myself over DVI. But I do not get access to the PC menu.

What about a DVI-D cable and a DVI to VGA adapter to use the DVI port on my HTPC and the VGA port on the DLP?

Do the newer models (2006) let you use the PC menu with DVI or HDMI? Because I will probably upgrade to a 1080p set within a year.

Thanks,

Josh

OK,

So is there any benefit then to getting a DVI-I or DVI-A and a VGA converter? Or should I just get a VGA cable? Or should I just use Component, my motherboard has an optional header with component out, I'm using the nVidia 6150 onboard video.

I just built this pc, so I probably wont be getting an HDMI card or anything for it, anytime soon.

I just want to know your opinion on what cable to get at this point, because I didn't even know about the PC menu or anything. :)

Thanks a ton.

Josh


edit: PS - I checked the TV and in fact it would only accept DVI-D single or dual link.

The DVI-D cable actually does not have the pins for the analog signal that the VGA input needs. You need a cable that has VGA on one end and DVI-A on the other. Or if you want a cable that may be more useful for other stuff, you can get a DVI-I cable (supports digital and analog) plus a DVI-I to VGA adapter. But, the DVI-I cable can't plug into the DVI-D on your TV because Samsung used a DVI-D port on the TV which will physically prevent a DVI-I plug from going in... I actually started with the DVI-I cable + adapter at first, but the adapters stick out pretty far and the DVI-I cable is very thick because it has all the wires for Digital and Analog in it. I eventually broken down and replaced it with a DVI-A to VGA cable for simplicity. I think this (http://www.cablestogo.com/product.asp?cat%5Fid=2801&sku=26954) is the one I got, which is what I would recommend. Remember, that only works if your graphics card has a DVI-I output port! A DVI-D output port will not work!

Notice the differences between the different DVI plugs:
http://www.datapro.net/images/dvi-config.jpg

A cable or input that supports analog always has the 4 pins around the large flat pin. If you look at the input on your Samsung TV, I think you'll find that it does not have the the 4 "analog" pins.

With respect to the 2006 models (HLS), it looks like the HLN may have been the last Samsung DLP to support the PC over DVI. I copied this out of an HLS User Manual: "NOTE • You cannot connect this TV to a PC via HDMI/DVI." But, there is a new video+audio card coming out that may allow you to connect HDMI from HTPC to TV. See it here (http://www.sapphiretech.com/en/products/graphics_overview.php?gpid=145).

-Valkyrie-MT

Just use the VGA input, that's why it's there.

Guys, getting 1280x720 working right is simple. Just go into the menu where you can name inputs and name the PC input "PC". Stupid they didn't document it, but once you do that you can access PC Wide (the mode you'll need), and the other functions in the PC menu.

OK, I have a question about the TV Guide. Anyone know how to add/name a channel? I want to list some QAM channels in the guide but it won't allow me to turn them on.

I just double checked my PC and TV.

On the back of the TV, there is DVI-D Female (no analog) and Female VGA port.

On the back of the HTPC, there is DVI-D Female (no analog) and Female VGA port.

So I will need a male - male VGA cable I assume, as the DVI cannot be converted to analog at all, and neither the TV nor PC can take DVI-A or DVI-I.

My other option is Component, which I think will be more of a hassle to setup on the PC end, but I want the best Quality.

So my options are:

1. Use the DVI-D connection I'm currently using and forego the PC menu item.
2. Buy a male/male VGA cable.
3. Setup the component out on my PC and use that.

Let me know what you think.

Josh

OK,

So is there any benefit then to getting a DVI-I or DVI-A and a VGA converter? Or should I just get a VGA cable? Or should I just use Component, my motherboard has an optional header with component out, I'm using the nVidia 6150 onboard video.

I just built this pc, so I probably wont be getting an HDMI card or anything for it, anytime soon.

I just want to know your opinion on what cable to get at this point, because I didn't even know about the PC menu or anything. :)

Thanks a ton.

Josh


edit: PS - I checked the TV and in fact it would only accept DVI-D single or dual link.

Dave,

I assume you mean once using the VGA port you can access the PC menu.

I am using DVI currently and I named it "PC" and still no PC menu. I've always had access to the p mode setting PC Wide.

Just use the VGA input, that's why it's there.

Guys, getting 1280x720 working right is simple. Just go into the menu where you can name inputs and name the PC input "PC". Stupid they didn't document it, but once you do that you can access PC Wide (the mode you'll need), and the other functions in the PC menu.

OK, I have a question about the TV Guide. Anyone know how to add/name a channel? I want to list some QAM channels in the guide but it won't allow me to turn them on.

You've lost me. AFAIK all these models only have VGA and HDMI, no DVI. I have a 5667 and it has just those two inputs.

Oh, I see, you have a 4664 which has a DVI port. Eh. Just use the VGA input. It's Plug and Play, and I can almost guarantee that's where all your DVI-D problems are coming in. You will get an excellent picture on the VGA port. I use it from my ATI card and get no ghosting or anything, nice and sharp. It's about as good as you can get.

my computer was able detect and use drivers for the samsung tv. i was able to stream audio and video using VLC media player to my other computer on my network also using vlc media player. i havent' had this setup in a while and i don't have my firewire cable with me because i'm in the middle of a move but it deffinitly worked. i was streaming HD (although choppy, probably because the computer i was trying to watch on was a p3 800). without a doubt the firewire on our tv's works both ways

The question is, which drivers are you using? Usually the devices show up but aren't usable without the correct drives.

Just use the VGA input, that's why it's there.

Guys, getting 1280x720 working right is simple. Just go into the menu where you can name inputs and name the PC input "PC". Stupid they didn't document it, but once you do that you can access PC Wide (the mode you'll need), and the other functions in the PC menu.

OK, I have a question about the TV Guide. Anyone know how to add/name a channel? I want to list some QAM channels in the guide but it won't allow me to turn them on.

I can confirm this, I could not get 1280X720 working, I knew my vid card could output it, but every time the tv would just say not supported. I named the input PC, and got it to work right.

As far as adding channels, the channel is listed at the bottom on the setup page, but just not enabled, correct? You can remap them to a different channel(incl. digital channels like 87-1). I think while on the setup tab, if you highlight the channel and hit the left arrow, it goes over to the details box, and there is an option to turn it on, and then you can punch in whatever channel it is on.

The question is, which drivers are you using? Usually the devices show up but aren't usable without the correct drives.

i'm pretty sure i used the drivers that would be used if you were connnecting a SA 3250 box to the computer.

Trueimage, It sounds like you are down to two choices, Component-Component or VGA-VGA. I'd say it's a no brainer, use a VGA-VGA cable. It's what I use and it will get you a perfect picture with a good short cable (6 ft. max). Then in the Samsung TV menu make sure the VGA source is labelled "PC" (this is the default anyway). Dave, was mentioning that if you change the label of the VGA input to something other than PC, the P.Size button doesn't have WidePC and WideTV modes. It is completely separate from the PC adjustment setting in the menu. Once connected with a VGA cable, just use the P.Size button to switch into WidePC mode.

Once you get that working, if you want a sharper PC image you can follow my previous posts on a 1:1 pixel mapping. This is a bit more complicated, but if you do a lot of web surfing on your TV, like I do, it is well worth it because it makes all the text clearer and easier to read. If you want to see the difference, just switch to WideTV mode, then do an auto adjust from the PC menu. This gives you a 1:1 pixel mapping, but the startbar and clock are usually cut off because of the overscan. My procedure basically fixes the overscan.

-Valkyrie-MT

Dave,

I assume you mean once using the VGA port you can access the PC menu.

I am using DVI currently and I named it "PC" and still no PC menu. I've always had access to the p mode setting PC Wide.

Hi everyone. I was hoping some of you could help me with a few questions I have about my dad's HL-R5067W 50" set.

The picture is not that great. I know it must be something we are not doing, since everyone here seems to be going crazy over the quality.

The picture is not that sharp, the dark scenes seem to shift...blocky like. The TV guide menu seems to be crisp and vibrant, so I'm guessing my problem is with the DVD player we have.

Hookups:
My dad has a Toshiba SD-5980 DVD player which is connected to the TV with component (the three color cable deal)

Also, we sit about 8 feet away from the set, which may be too close.

If I buy an HDMI cable, will that improve the picture from my existing component hookup.

Any response would be greatly appreciated. Recommendations on what to buy etc. Thanks guys.

Well guys,
An update on my "Matching Stand" issue:
After multiple emails to Ameriwood on the subject, They are basically saying that there is no fix for the 46in. version of the expanding design.
The girl I am dealing with has emailed three engineers, and none have heard of issues with the 46 in. model. (Although the center of the stand clearly does not even get close to touching the rubber feet.) I have told them that I will not allow a 200.00 stand to destroy a 2000.00 TV. I have mentioned several times to her that I would like a fix or they need to refund my money. At no time has she even acknowledged the refund. They keep discussing the fact that they have no fix for the 46 in. and are trying to send a 50 in. top.
I cannot return it to the store I had purchased it from, as now, it has been a month or so since I bought it, and have no box. I have noticed that no major retailer even carries the stand anymore, I suspect we all know why.
Anyone have any clues as to what I should do?
Should I contact Samsung, since it is "supposed' to be the "matching stand"? Will they do anything to help?

Hi everyone. I was hoping some of you could help me with a few questions I have about my dad's HL-R5067W 50" set.

The picture is not that great. I know it must be something we are not doing, since everyone here seems to be going crazy over the quality.

The picture is not that sharp, the dark scenes seem to shift...blocky like. The TV guide menu seems to be crisp and vibrant, so I'm guessing my problem is with the DVD player we have.

Hookups:
My dad has a Toshiba SD-5980 DVD player which is connected to the TV with component (the three color cable deal)

Also, we sit about 8 feet away from the set, which may be too close.

If I buy an HDMI cable, will that improve the picture from my existing component hookup.

Any response would be greatly appreciated. Recommendations on what to buy etc. Thanks guys.

Do you have any HD sources? SD TV and standard DVDs will look a little soft. They are low resolution.

Hi everyone. I was hoping some of you could help me with a few questions I have about my dad's HL-R5067W 50" set.

The picture is not that great. I know it must be something we are not doing, since everyone here seems to be going crazy over the quality.

The picture is not that sharp, the dark scenes seem to shift...blocky like. The TV guide menu seems to be crisp and vibrant, so I'm guessing my problem is with the DVD player we have.

Hookups:
My dad has a Toshiba SD-5980 DVD player which is connected to the TV with component (the three color cable deal)

Also, we sit about 8 feet away from the set, which may be too close.

If I buy an HDMI cable, will that improve the picture from my existing component hookup.

Any response would be greatly appreciated. Recommendations on what to buy etc. Thanks guys.

Yes, you are sitting too close. You are going to not see the definition of HD in it's correct form unless you sit at least 3 screen widths away (150+ inches or 15 feet).

So you need to sit twice as far away...

as for the problems you describe, they are very common and if you search through this thread you will find adjustments and ideas on what changes to make. Short answer, some people like myself find HDMI makes a world of difference, others none. Your source signal is the single largest factor in picture quality (pq) so you may see better quality with a upconverting player, using HDMI and making sure you are watching HD channels. Standard digital cable and other SD programming will actually look a bit worse.

Good luck - try some searching in this thread for solutions.

i'm pretty sure i used the drivers that would be used if you were connnecting a SA 3250 box to the computer.

MatthewR, did you use the same driver as in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=403695

I though I read somewhere that this didn't work with the Samsung DLP.

Thanks.

Hi everyone. I was hoping some of you could help me with a few questions I have about my dad's HL-R5067W 50" set.

The picture is not that great. I know it must be something we are not doing, since everyone here seems to be going crazy over the quality.

The picture is not that sharp, the dark scenes seem to shift...blocky like. The TV guide menu seems to be crisp and vibrant, so I'm guessing my problem is with the DVD player we have.

Hookups:
My dad has a Toshiba SD-5980 DVD player which is connected to the TV with component (the three color cable deal)

Also, we sit about 8 feet away from the set, which may be too close.

If I buy an HDMI cable, will that improve the picture from my existing component hookup.

Any response would be greatly appreciated. Recommendations on what to buy etc. Thanks guys.

Hockey-guy is right. Source is the number one issue. The connection quality will usually depend on the quality of the components used in your player. Component *should* look fine. Dark scenes are a bit tricky on this set for various reasons. Keep in mind that a lot of DVD content will have pixellation in the dark scenes when viewed at this size. Sitting another 4-8 feet back would be a good idea for several reasons.
Take some time to setup your DVD player, make sure you've got the options setup right. Investing in a calibration DVD would be a good idea too. Popular ones are Digital Video Essentials (DVE) and AVIA. DVE suggests putting the picture mode in "movie" mode. There is a good article by Eliab at http://americanwired.com/video/calibration3.html that I found usefull.
Turning off DNIE in the Service Menu has some advantages but will not fix the pixellation in the dark scenes. Some have had success with Gamma and index adjustments in the Service Menu but I did not see much difference. SM adjustments may be out of your comfort zone...if you decide to venture down that path, plan to spend several hours searching this thread...its all in here. Good luck

I've had a few substantial problems with my display recently, and it looks like Samsung is going to either replace the item or refund the actual purchase price. If they do replace it with a newer model, does anyone have any suggestions about which model to request (if I get that option from Samsung) ? If they refund the purchase price, I'm going to buy another Samsung in its place. Thanks in advance.

I've had a few substantial problems with my display recently, and it looks like Samsung is going to either replace the item or refund the actual purchase price. If they do replace it with a newer model, does anyone have any suggestions about which model to request (if I get that option from Samsung) ? If they refund the purchase price, I'm going to buy another Samsung in its place. Thanks in advance.

I'd ask them for last year's 56" model and get an upgrade at the same time, or shoot high and go for the 1080p 50" set from this year's lineup.

I'd ask them for last year's 56" model and get an upgrade at the same time, or shoot high and go for the 1080p 50" set from this year's lineup.

For last year's 56", that would be the HLR-5567W I believe ? Not sure the exact model # for this years 1080P set.

For last year's 56", that would be the HLR-5567W I believe ? Not sure the exact model # for this years 1080P set.
The new 1080p set is the HLS-5087. If you can another 1080p set just make sure that HDMI will accept full 1080p.

For last year's 56", that would be the HLR-5567W I believe ? Not sure the exact model # for this years 1080P set.


check for latest HERE (http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/dlptv/index.asp)

MatthewR, did you use the same driver as in this thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=403695

I though I read somewhere that this didn't work with the Samsung DLP.

Thanks.

i BELIEVE so... have you tried them yet? i wish i could help you out, maybe i can ge tto the storage area my stuff is in this weekend... i refuse to spend 40 bucks at best buy for another cable

just about a day ago, my HLR5067W started "pulsing"/flickering going from bright to a tad bit dimmer, and back.. really quick.. it does it for about 30 seconds every 2 minutes... its very annoying..

i bought the tv in december...

could it be the bulb? and if its only 6 months old samsung should replace it as defective?

just about a day ago, my HLR5067W started "pulsing"/flickering going from bright to a tad bit dimmer, and back.. really quick.. it does it for about 30 seconds every 2 minutes... its very annoying..

i bought the tv in december...

could it be the bulb? and if its only 6 months old samsung should replace it as defective?

wow.... i've been debating to post about this same thing... i wasn't sure if it was my imagination or not, cause soemtimes i dont' see it at all. i'm wondering if its a power issue. but mine doesn't last 30 seconds. it will flicker so fast i dont' even know if i really saw it.

wow.... i've been debating to post about this same thing... i wasn't sure if it was my imagination or not, cause soemtimes i dont' see it at all. i'm wondering if its a power issue. but mine doesn't last 30 seconds. it will flicker so fast i dont' even know if i really saw it.

mine was doing it so bad while playing rockstar table tennis for the x360 today, i had to turn it off, i couldent play with it doing that...

mine was doing it so bad while playing rockstar table tennis for the x360 today, i had to turn it off, i couldent play with it doing that...

that game is cool isn't it? One of those 'simple to play - impossible to master' types...

Jesper is the man to use starting out... not much in the way of spin, but blasts the ball past your opponent to help unlock some goodies. ;)

Oh, suckorz about the flashing issue - post an update if you guys find out what is causing it - I've got 1300 hours on my bulb now and I'm starting to think about contacting my warranty provider to find out how I can be prepared if it should go out sooner rather than later.

i BELIEVE so... have you tried them yet? i wish i could help you out, maybe i can ge tto the storage area my stuff is in this weekend... i refuse to spend 40 bucks at best buy for another cable

No, I never have because I read somewhere that it didn't work for Samsung DLP's. I guess I'll give it a shot now when I get a chance.

Thanks.

Anyone tried an HD DvD player with these dlps yet? I'm thinking of buying the Toshiba and figured I would check here to see how this combo was doing. Thanks

Anyone tried an HD DvD player with these dlps yet? I'm thinking of buying the Toshiba and figured I would check here to see how this combo was doing. Thanks

If you do buy a Toshiba, make sure you don't use the 720p setting on it. Only use the 1080i output setting and let you TV do the downscaling.

I recently bought a sammy 50" (HLR5064), at first i thought the picture was great when i was over at best buy but when I loaded a dvd at home I noticed the movie (blade 2) seemed kinda grainy I've set the tv to dynamic mode i find this anoying
I dont have the same problem playing 360 games i find picture quality really good esp when playing in 720 and 1080 modes. the problem I notice is only when watching DVD's and Satellite I was thinking of switching to the sony A20
any advice on the A20 ? or should I try to calibrate my sammy
I have 30 days to return my tv

that game is cool isn't it? One of those 'simple to play - impossible to master' types...

Jesper is the man to use starting out... not much in the way of spin, but blasts the ball past your opponent to help unlock some goodies. ;)

Oh, suckorz about the flashing issue - post an update if you guys find out what is causing it - I've got 1300 hours on my bulb now and I'm starting to think about contacting my warranty provider to find out how I can be prepared if it should go out sooner rather than later.

hell yeah its cool... SK360 on live if youd like to play ;)

I recently bought a sammy 50" (HLR5064), at first i thought the picture was great when i was over at best buy but when I loaded a dvd at home I noticed the movie (blade 2) seemed kinda grainy I've set the tv to dynamic mode i find this anoying
I dont have the same problem playing 360 games i find picture quality really good esp when playing in 720 and 1080 modes. the problem I notice is only when watching DVD's and Satellite I was thinking of switching to the sony A20
any advice on the A20 ? or should I try to calibrate my sammy
I have 30 days to return my tv

These sets don't add graininess to any picture. Something is wrong with your DVD player, the source material, the connection method, or some other variable. The simple fact that you think a game box looks really good should tell you it's not a set problem. Have you hooked up an antenna to receive your local off-air HD digital network channels? www.antennaweb.org They will look fabulous. You cannot get them on sat. You're already talking about swapping for something else inferior when you haven't even seen a decent signal yet. I think you should work out your source and connection issues. You can't calibrate a trashy input signal into perfection. Which sat box? What provider? HD package? All standard definition? What connection method? What DVD player? What connection method on it? Tried a different player yet? Tried HDMI? Are you using 3 wire component video cables? How close are you sitting to that big screen tv. Ever had one before? It doesn't improve standard definition programming. It enlarges 480i content. It's made for 720P and 1080i signal display. You have to sit back away from it to tolerate compressed digital sat standard definition content. Remember, it's made to display HD signals and it does that very very well.

Im using the philips DVP642, I using monster component cables
also I meant the sony A10 how is it compared to the sammy ?

hell yeah its cool... SK360 on live if youd like to play ;)

Sure thing - BRIAN GR1FF1N is my tag...

Need advice, I can buy a 4277 floor model at huge discount, under $1400. Would you guys buy this, or should I stay away of dicontinued floor models???

I`m sorry in regards to the above post it is a 46 inch t.v. so I think it is a 4677, will have warranty. Thanks

I`m sorry in regards to the above post it is a 46 inch t.v. so I think it is a 4677, will have warranty. Thanks

If the warranty includes lamp replacement it MAY be worth it - if not... NO. You can get the 4666 for $1800 brand new now, with no tax online... and the lamps run around $200-$300 depending on which it is (there are up to 4 different lamps in the sammy's). Buying the store, you'll be paying sales tax and have to deal with lamp life.

If the set has no dead pixels, no visible damage you might want to jump into the service menu and check the hours on the bulb - it will probably be really high, so I'd ask for an extended warranty on top of the standard to cover the bulb.

Good luck wheelin' and dealin'! :o

Does anyone know how to get a list of service codes for HLR-4667W. The samsung website only list owners manuals and not service manuals. Is there another source where I can go to get this information?

TIA
BW

We have been missing WUSA 9 DTV but able to get 13.1 for the last few days. Today I decided to run the automatic channel search again and subsequently channel 9.1 is back!

Something funny is still going on as I have both 5.1 and 27.1 now. Of course they are both WTTG Fox 5. Note that 27.1 and 5.1 were both in my channel line up before and after I reran the channel search function.

I have a Samsung HLR5067W, about 3 months old.

Does anyone know how to get a list of service codes for HLR-4667W. The samsung website only list owners manuals and not service manuals. Is there another source where I can go to get this information?

TIA
BW
Mute-1-8-4-Exit will display screen 1 of Diagnostic Status
Mute-1-8-5-Exit will display screen 2 of Diagnostic Status
Mute-1-8-6-Exit will display screen 3 of Diagnostic Status (may reset chanel list)
Mute-1-8-2-Pwr (with TV off) resets to factory default settings

Whats some good tips to setup the sammy tv ? to try to improve PQ

first tip would be to read this thread

Dumb question, but I have to ask...

Just got a HL-R4667W from Costco. I have our digital DVR cable box connected to it (via COAX).

I cannot figure out how to get the OTA HDTV channels on it. Do I need to get an antenna? Which source do I view these channels on? The antenna one?

Again, sorry for the lame post but the manual has nothing about OTA HDTV.

Thanks,

Eric H

Dumb question, but I have to ask...

Just got a HL-R4667W from Costco. I have our digital DVR cable box connected to it (via COAX).

I cannot figure out how to get the OTA HDTV channels on it. Do I need to get an antenna? Which source do I view these channels on? The antenna one?

Again, sorry for the lame post but the manual has nothing about OTA HDTV.

Thanks,

Eric H

You definitely need an antenna to view OTA channels both digital and analog. For recommendations on the antenna you need, please go to www.antennaweb.org for more information.

delete

i have been looking at a sammy DLP for some time. i am pulling the trigger tomorrow. mostly it'll be gaming, but a little dvd viewing as well. i hear of the audio/video lag often for the model of this post. my question is, would you get last years 46" model or this years 42" dlp if they were the same price? that's my dilema now, and i have 24hrs or so to decide...be my jack bauer :p

I have no noticeable lag on my 4667w...xbox original, with component cables. VERY nice picture OTA HD, very nice 480 progressive dvd...Looking forward to an upconverting player.
The audio lag is there when hooked directly to an HT receiver, but I have a separate DTS decoder with a delay setting. so no probs. In short, I am extremely happy.
What is your seating distance? That should be the deciding factor for you.

first tip would be to read this thread

Smart ass remark.

I have no noticeable lag on my 4667w...xbox original, with component cables. VERY nice picture OTA HD, very nice 480 progressive dvd...Looking forward to an upconverting player.
The audio lag is there when hooked directly to an HT receiver, but I have a separate DTS decoder with a delay setting. so no probs. In short, I am extremely happy.
What is your seating distance? That should be the deciding factor for you.

8-8.5 feet
also i heard you could disable the DNiE on the newer one...i've heard people like it without. can you on the HL-R??

no...you have to go into the SM and remove some values manually.
New model also eliminated, I believe, a firewire port.

I have followed this thread since the beginning, and really have found no reference to how long the lamp in Samsung's DLPs should last. I have heard of from 4-6,000 hours to 8-10,000 hours. I keep the TV on most of the time, and have reached just over 4,000 hours as shown in the SM, and now wonder when it will give out. It's not even a year old. So if some could just post how many hours they have, it would make me feel a little better, and if I should order a replacement lamp assembly for a spare. I know I have 15 months on the warranty, but what happens after that is what I am concerned with. I was hoping for about 5 years, but it looks like I am not going to make that!
Thanks - Ed

I have followed this thread since the beginning, and really have found no reference to how long the lamp in Samsung's DLPs should last. I have heard of from 4-6,000 hours to 8-10,000 hours. I keep the TV on most of the time, and have reached just over 4,000 hours as shown in the SM, and now wonder when it will give out. It's not even a year old. So if some could just post how many hours they have, it would make me feel a little better, and if I should order a replacement lamp assembly for a spare. I know I have 15 months on the warranty, but what happens after that is what I am concerned with. I was hoping for about 5 years, but it looks like I am not going to make that!
Thanks - Ed

I've read about several Phillips UHP lamps lasting over 6500 hours and two that made it past 8500. Most people have never been owners of projection technology and don't understand that lamps are consumable. You should have had a spare or two from the start. The idea that the set is under warranty and that the lamp should last the rated hours is a gamble that is often lost. The result is frustration and unnecessary downtime. Good deals on many popular Phillips UHP lamps can be found on eBay.

I've read about several Phillips UHP lamps lasting over 6500 hours and two that made it past 8500. Most people have never been owners of projection technology and don't understand that lamps are consumable. You should have had a spare or two from the start. The idea that the set is under warranty and that the lamp should last the rated hours is a gamble that is often lost. The result is frustration and unnecessary downtime. Good deals on many popular Phillips UHP lamps can be found on eBay.

But if your warranty covers bulb replacement.... how can we get a spare and have it replaced under warranty without shelling out $$$ needlessly?

i have been looking at a sammy DLP for some time. i am pulling the trigger tomorrow. mostly it'll be gaming, but a little dvd viewing as well. i hear of the audio/video lag often for the model of this post. my question is, would you get last years 46" model or this years 42" dlp if they were the same price? that's my dilema now, and i have 24hrs or so to decide...be my jack bauer :p

I've owned a 4667 for a bit over a month and I'm very happy with it. I too thought about the 42 but when I bought mine they were also the same price, so I went with the 46 and I'm glad I did. The only major difference seems to be that this year you can turn off DNIe and you can't on mine without entering the SM. For me it's not a deal breaker. I'd like to have the option, but I can live with it. When I feed the TV good source material, it looks just fine; with network compressed stuff it looks just awful - but that's not the TV's fault. I don't use mine for gaming, so I can't address that.

But if your warranty covers bulb replacement.... how can we get a spare and have it replaced under warranty without shelling out $$$ needlessly?

I think I know what you're asking. If you have a lamp fail under warranty, simply install your spare so you're not down. Call service for the failed one. It will take several days for your turn in line. Before they show up, put the failed one back in and they will replace it. This process will not harm your spare. In fact, you should put a few hundred hours on a spare when you first get it. If it's going to fail, it will do so during the first few hundred hours. They usually have only a 90 day warranty, so, it's smart to use one for a while to make sure it's a good one.

I occasionally use an older VCR with composite video (non-SVHS) and L+R audio in/outs (an HD DVR is not in the budget yet). I've been unable to record anything by connecting either from the STB, TV or receiver. VHS playback does work, though, as expected, the quality is pretty poor. I can understand why I might not be able to record HD content, but even trying SD channels gets me nothing.

Is there a recommended connection method so I can record anything at all? Do I need to Y-off the cable input to the VCR's tuner and use that for recording? Ideally, I'd like to be able to record any channel provided by the HD STB.


Roger

Anybody successful on getting a 1x1 pixel display on this TV? Currently I have a small black area completely surrounding my entire screen when using my HTPC. I have the PC's graphics card set to 1280x720, and the PC input's label on the TV is to 'PC'.

I have the Oppo and it makes the DVDs look almost as good as HD and we are rediscovering our collection. A great match! What I can't get over is the one HDMI input on the Samsung ... now *that* is worth slagging!

For the Index Delay, use the search this forum and you'll find it easy. Be sure to search for Service Menu and Index Delay and read up.

Does anyone who owns a HLRxx67W series and also the Oppo confirm that there is no way to have 1:1 pixel mapping.

When I'm playing DVD's through the Oppo using the DVI/HDMI connection, and my Sammy set to 16x9, the movie loses about 5% of the picture around the entire border. Is there any way to remedy this problem?

BTW, I have the HLR6167W model. TIA.

u guys gotta search... this question has been answered a few times

Well, I'm not going to expect an answer here (except for read this thread) but does anyone know how much I should expect to pay (and where to contact someone) to calibrate my TV? I'd like for someone to do it as I do not have the DVD most people say is needed in order to do it.

BTW, I'm up to page 51 in this thread but it's taking me a while to get through it. I just bought my 5067W last Thursday and I'm still learning how to play with it. I'd like to disable DNIe but, like I said, without being able to calibrate it, I don't want to mess anything up.

Thanks for the thread guys!

probably around 400 and even with the DVD you would not be able to calibrate your set like a professional. you dont' have to read the whole thread .... check that last month or 2 of posts and you will probably find most of the information you need...

Wow, about 400 for about two hours of work? How do I get into that business, lol.

I'm going to continue to read the thread and, hopefully, I'll run into someone's name that lives near Washington DC and comes recomended by you guys. If I don't find someone here, what should I look in the yellow pages under?

look for posts by Eliab. I believe he is on the east coast.
Or look for Lion AV consultants. they have set dates accross the U S of A

look for posts by Eliab. I believe he is on the east coast.
Or look for Lion AV consultants. they have set dates accross the U S of A
So, they do the following: "$400 package price for rear projection displays. Grayscale for one input, see services for listings." Does that mean that they will charge me extra to calibrate the Component and the HDMI inputs? Damn, that sucks.

Edit: found Tom's site here (http://displaycalibrationonline.com/) and have sent him an email. He charges $300 for one display and up to 3 inputs and is located about 30 minutes north of here.

u guys gotta search... this question has been answered a few times

I've searched this entire thread, and read through basically the entire thing, as well as asked the same question in the Oppo Brain Dump thread, and nobody seems to know a solution to an Oppo w/ an HLR series Samsung. The older Samsung models had the "Expand" option, but this was omitted in the HLR series models. If you know of a solution, or if you know a "keyword" to search for, I'm more than willing to search it myself, but I've searched all the keywords to no avail. Everything I've found in this thread refers to a PC setup and using Powerstrip, which is not possible in the case of the Oppo.

actually i was talking more to to the post in front of you sorry.... as far as getting rid of the overscan on the HDMI port i dotn' think there is a way

(Tap Tap Tap) "This thing working?



Anybody successful on getting a 1x1 pixel display on this TV? Currently I have a small black area completely surrounding my entire screen when using my HTPC. I have the PC's graphics card set to 1280x720, and the PC input's label on the TV is to 'PC'.

(Tap Tap Tap) "This thing working?

I believe MatthewR was referring to this POST (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7657443&&#post7657443) and a couple more below that as well.

I've posted a thread about 1:1 pixel mapping here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=671755

If you get perfect 1:1 pixel mapping on ANY rptv, then you will definitely have overscan. That's because 720p rptv's don't display the full 1280x720 pixels since some of the pixels will be behind the bezel. My Nvidia video card driver has an overscan correction just for this. It will still output 1280x720p over the DVI connection, but will only paint the desktop in a smaller rectangle inside the 1280x720 space.

I've posted a thread about 1:1 pixel mapping here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=671755

If you get perfect 1:1 pixel mapping on ANY rptv, then you will definitely have overscan. That's because 720p rptv's don't display the full 1280x720 pixels since some of the pixels will be behind the bezel. My Nvidia video card driver has an overscan correction just for this. It will still output 1280x720p over the DVI connection, but will only paint the desktop in a smaller rectangle inside the 1280x720 space.

So as of right now, the only way to get 1:1 pixel mapping is by using a program like Powerstrip. This isn't much an option for Oppo DV971H Upconverting DVD players. Don't get me wrong, the picture quality of this player is awesome for the majority of movies I have thrown at it. The only way I could tell that part of the picture was getting cut off was because I played with the zoom function on the DVD player. It is definitely cutting of about 5% or so of the picture, and in older Samsung DLP models, there was an "expand" option that gave you 1:1 pixel mapping. I don't see why Samsung would remove this feature.

I'll definietely experiment with the Xilleon226->Filter menu to see if I cannot figure it out. Thanks everybody for the great posts here.

So as of right now, the only way to get 1:1 pixel mapping is by using a program like Powerstrip. This isn't much an option for Oppo DV971H Upconverting DVD players. Don't get me wrong, the picture quality of this player is awesome for the majority of movies I have thrown at it. The only way I could tell that part of the picture was getting cut off was because I played with the zoom function on the DVD player. It is definitely cutting of about 5% or so of the picture, and in older Samsung DLP models, there was an "expand" option that gave you 1:1 pixel mapping. I don't see why Samsung would remove this feature.

I'll definietely experiment with the Xilleon226->Filter menu to see if I cannot figure it out. Thanks everybody for the great posts here.

I think you might be confusing terms a little bit here. Powerstrip can't help with 1:1 mapping, but it can definitely help with overscan. 1:1 mapping and overscan are not the same thing. 1:1 mapping simple means that you are displaying exactly the same image, pixel for pixel, that is being sent to it. If the display is doing any scaling, edge enhancement or any other kind of enhancement, then you don't have 1:1 mapping. There are various ways to test for this, like painting the desktop with a 1 pixel checkerboard pattern.

With our Samsung model, it is quite possible or even probable that it is impossible to get 1:1 pixel mapping over the HDMI input, at least with the current firmware.

If I don't have perfect 1:1 mapping on the VGA port with no overscan, I'm pretty close. I have a ATI X1800XT. I renamed the PC port to "PC", I then used the TV's horizontal/vertical adjustments from service mode after setting the TV from the PC menu to "WIDE". I used ATI's CCC to then bring it completely centered (I also have Powerstrip running).

I checked the pattern and there is no checkerboarding, diagonal pattern or anything. It looks fairly uniform. The main problem with the ATI cards is there is no rotation adjustment, and the TV has to trapezoid or other similar adjustments.

are there any SM option to help with the audio being out of sync with video? also, would disabling DNie in SM help any?

are there any SM option to help with the audio being out of sync with video? also, would disabling DNie in SM help any?

Actually, 95% of the time you notice things being out-of-sync you'll find that the video is actually coming in before the audio on network/HD channels. This would require some type of "video delay" that is not available in our unit. There is, of course, no way to request or suck in the audio any faster than it's delivered, and I can tell you that this is a major pet peeve of mine with the networks and HD providers. They just can't seem to get the audio/video sync thing down and, in my opinion, it's complete inexcusable. I use a Cable Card, so I know it has nothing to do with any delay over cables that might be possible with a STB. I love the picture quality I get using the Cable Card, but it always seems that the one show that I've been looking forward to is out-of-sync.

The problem seems to be worse on certain individual programs, but the networks (ABC/CBS/FOX/NBC) are the worst when it comes to this problem as a whole (and I think the real problem is on the local affiliate side). The only HD channel I've never noticed a problem with is Discovery HD. But random programs on INHD and HDNET (concerts especially) have the problem and it's just agonizing.

Just as bad is when the local network affiliate seems to have a problem remembering to "switch" a program to its HD mode on the HD feed until about half-way into the program. So the first half of the show is the SD version of the show stretched to the "fake" widescreen crap.

Regardless, I can't stand watching someone's mouth move before I hear it knowing there's absolutely nothing I can do about it. It's like I'm being taunted. Many times I have to switch to the old-school analog version of the show just so things are in sync. All of the analog channels are always fine.

If the sync problem was the other way around, it's easy enough to correct with an audio delay feature found on most A/V receivers. But unfortunately it's not. I guess this is just what we have to live with in the beginning of this digital television revolution.

Thanks for letting me rant. What an annoyance! :mad:

Just wondering if the people here who turned off the DNIE still have it turned off? Anyone turn it back on? I turned mine off. But haven't made up my mind if I like it or not. Thanks

are there any SM option to help with the audio being out of sync with video? also, would disabling DNie in SM help any?

No! and No!

Lip/Sync is mostly an issue with content and/or the use of home theater receivers. The only known fix for video lag is a digital audio delay as either a feature of the HT receiver or an external device such as the Felston. In my opinion, video trailing the audio is more common. It's the only thing we can actually do something about. The condition is not Samsung specific, either.

http://www.felston.com/dd540/

Just wondering if the people here who turned off the DNIE still have it turned off? Anyone turn it back on? I turned mine off. But haven't made up my mind if I like it or not. Thanks

I turned it off for a week. I didn't like the degraded picture of most standard definition programming. I turned it back on. There was really no difference in the quality of HD channels.

It seems to me that with DNIE off. That the set isn't as vivid. Whatever you can make out of that. I'm no expert but my set seems dull now with DNIE removed. I might turn it back on. If I can count that high.

Anyone have the values to get it back? (rookie mistake not taking note, sorry)

Each set (not just model) is different because of several light engines in use and particualr setting adjustments made at factory. Just in case some ppl may have missed this, you don't want to go into the service menu without first making backup pictures of all pages/settings. Even then, there is a risk. I've noticed a lot of "rookies" asking how to get in SM and ppl replying to them without caution(s) so much as mentioned. You can really do damage just trying to get into the menu, much less changing stuff. And then you have ppl reporting how they've experimented with settings (without having foggiest) and suggesting others to do so! It does have risk involved, especially for those of us who may have trouble follwing DVE and even AVIA! Only thing I would be comfortable with after changing stuff with no turning back possible is getting new set or having professionally calibrated. No way to fix any problems you've made by futzing around in such cases, limiting your fancy digital TV performance to extent of your adventures/excursions into SM. If you notice, in this thread technicians have made sober warnings, while end users tend to firewalk with abandon. YMMV.

That being said, I improved SD (compressed digital video feed) with slight adjustment to index delay. Like others I found that HD looks good always but macroblocking is best attenuated with a dialing back of this setting. Now standard sat channels and lackluster mastering on DVDs to be quite watchable. I left DNIe on since it improved SD so much and I knew I wasn't always going to be treating the Samsung to HD signals, far from it. And I only use calibrated setting (Avia custom) on HD/upconverted movies. The edge enhancement that looks so awful on other sets like CRT makes SD look good on the Samsung. And I considered myself a purist until we got this set. Go figure. I like the set. I'm just annoyed how bad TV looks unless you are seated in correct vertical plane and also it having just one HDMI input.

Seemed like everyones dnie was about the same. I have mine written down and will post them when I get time. I think you can look back and someone has posted what they did. It was very close if not identical to what mine was.

My new samsung is great except for when i am watching a movie on DVD thru the HDMI input and there is a scene with dark clouds or underwater scenes and then I notice some pixelating effects (for lack of a better term).....anyone seen this and know whatI am doing wrong?

Thanks!

My new samsung is great except for when i am watching a movie on DVD thru the HDMI input and there is a scene with dark clouds or underwater scenes and then I notice some pixelating effects (for lack of a better term).....anyone seen this and know whatI am doing wrong?

Thanks!

yea i know what you are talking about! the first movie i watched was with my wife to wow her. boy was that a failure. the darks sucked, but when it was bright it was very very good. there were a lot of dark scenes that did what you are talking about. i think it's what people here refer to as "macro blocking". instead of a smooth radiant you get it crapped altogether in bigger pixels. that's my description of it at least. i'll watch for what people have to help remedy this

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fizzasist
My new samsung is great except for when i am watching a movie on DVD thru the HDMI input and there is a scene with dark clouds or underwater scenes and then I notice some pixelating effects (for lack of a better term).....anyone seen this and know whatI am doing wrong?

Thanks!


yea i know what you are talking about! the first movie i watched was with my wife to wow her. boy was that a failure. the darks sucked, but when it was bright it was very very good. there were a lot of dark scenes that did what you are talking about. i think it's what people here refer to as "macro blocking". instead of a smooth radiant you get it crapped altogether in bigger pixels. that's my description of it at least. I'll watch for what people have to help remedy this


Using a calibration disc to optimize your grey scale helps. Adjusting the Index Delay in the service mode will help too, but nothing is going to completely eliminate macro-blocking or posterization. These are digital artifacts inherent in digital mpeg compressed video. The encoder selects what it considers to be the important part of the image, which is usually the foreground. The background is then encoded using less pixels. We see the unnatural results in the unfocused backgrounds of compressed movies, which includes DVDs or other mpeg content. That's why it's rarely ever seen on HD channels. Its really apparent in mpeg sat standard def channels. It's even more pronounced on an excellent big screen display. There really is nothing wrong with the set and Samsung isn't the only brand that reveals these effects. I've adjusted all I can without the help of an ISF tech and I'm used to it now. If you look for artifacts, then they will bother you. Just watch the foreground and try to relax. Your set is fine.

For those of you that want a little background on compressed video, here's a link.

http://www.doc.ic.ac.uk/~nd/surprise_96/journal/vol4/sab/report.html

I wonder if this problem still exists with the hd dvd's?

I wonder if this problem still exists with the hd dvd's?

The whole idea of HD is to have the bandwidth for detail. Blu-Ray technology is supposed to have a greater data density. We will see!

There are plenty of folks working on the problem. State of the art sophisticated encoders and the development of mpeg 4 compression are evidence of such.

Wouldn't it be nice if ALL the content owners would re-master their intellectual property archives to the newest artifact-free standards? Don't hold your breath! I wouldn't mind if a movie came on 10 DVDs if that's what it takes to get an uncompressed version of it. After all, we are humans with the need for periodic breaks.

Ok...noob paranoia is setting in.

In reference to the post about 4 back, about restoring settings without your original values,

I did take pictures of the settings from the HD(OTA) input for the DNIe values.
Would those be the same from input to input?

Actually, 95% of the time you notice things being out-of-sync you'll find that the video is actually coming in before the audio on network/HD channels.


Not quite right. Unless you have the one set that differs from the rest of us. 99% of the time you are hearing "leading audio" which is caused by the audio running through your home theater without waiting for the video signal which is being processed for about a hundred milliseconds. This signal processesing varies depending on the signal type and how much conversion needs to take place to get it to 720p, and of course like everything in HDTV, the source and how sync'd up it was to start with.

DVD's, TV programs, everything is usually off a few ms here and there - some ahead, some behind, but leading audio is much more noticable than lagging audio. As long as the lag isn't more than 60ms, the normal person doesn't notice it - but when it's leading audio - you notice it because you are hearing things before they appear visually. (Like hearing the crack of a bat before the pitch even leaves the mound).

I have the felston unit Hi-Rez mentioned - it is the perfect fix for this problem. If you have an audio amplifier/theater unit that has adjustable delay, try starting around 100 ms and tweak from there. Sometimes it is much more than this (up to 160ms) and other times, it is nothing - but that is rare. I leave it at 110 unless I notice something, then adjust up or down from there.

In regards to the original values in the service menu for DNIE, they can be found on Page 94, Post 2820. I'm not sure if that goes for all the HLR models, but it was correct for my HLR4667W. (thanks Brett)

As also previously noted, for the values that are 12000, you can save yourself some time by using the "-" and the "Pre-Ch" buttons to change in increments of 100.

Not quite right. Unless you have the one set that differs from the rest of us. 99% of the time you are hearing "leading audio" which is caused by the audio running through your home theater without waiting for the video signal which is being processed for about a hundred milliseconds. This signal processesing varies depending on the signal type and how much conversion needs to take place to get it to 720p, and of course like everything in HDTV, the source and how sync'd up it was to start with.

DVD's, TV programs, everything is usually off a few ms here and there - some ahead, some behind, but leading audio is much more noticable than lagging audio. As long as the lag isn't more than 60ms, the normal person doesn't notice it - but when it's leading audio - you notice it because you are hearing things before they appear visually. (Like hearing the crack of a bat before the pitch even leaves the mound).

I have the felston unit Hi-Rez mentioned - it is the perfect fix for this problem. If you have an audio amplifier/theater unit that has adjustable delay, try starting around 100 ms and tweak from there. Sometimes it is much more than this (up to 160ms) and other times, it is nothing - but that is rare. I leave it at 110 unless I notice something, then adjust up or down from there.

In my opinion, lagging audio/leading video is just as bad, and only 1 out of 50 times is there leading audio vs. leading video in my environment. Like I said before, certain programming is far worse than others, but the majority of my out-of-sync experiences with the HL-R4667W is leading video. This has nothing to do with the Samsung. It might be the content originator, and it could be the local cable company (BrightHouse Tampa Bay) during its compression to fit all channels within a given bandwidth. I wish I could fix it.

I should also clarify... the delay between my xx67w built-in speakers and the optical-out to my receiver is about 5ms. They are extremely close. The lagging audio problem I experience occurs regardless of whether I'm listening through my receiver or through the built in speakers. I'm an editor and I've dealt with everything from 1" tape to Beta to NLE. Out-of-sync problems are inexcusable regardless of whether it's leading or lagging! But I'm 99% sure it has nothing to do with the xx67w line.

Oh.. I should also mention that with my particular DVD player I'm going into the xx67w via Component input and to my audio receiver via digital coax. In this particular realm I've preset my audio delay on my receiver to 85ms after using an optimizing DVD. So in this instance, yes, I have to correct for leading audio.

Once I thought about that, I imagine the majority of xx67w owners are using a set-top-box for cable/satellite and thus would most likely experience the same type of scenario. I'm using a Cable Card, so everything is happening internally without audio and video being split before the television. This is probably why I experience lagging audio vs. leading audio. So I guess I take back what I said originally. If you're using a STB, you actually luck out on the audio side because you can most always correct it by delaying it. In my case, I'm screwed on the audio side, but I really love the picture quality I get! What a trade off!

more about the audio leading. what if i put audio through the tv then out to the receiver from the tv. i think i remember someone saying it won't pass through all the channels though. i have 6.1 and don't want to lose it.

more about the audio leading. what if i put audio through the tv then out to the receiver from the tv. i think i remember someone saying it won't pass through all the channels though. i have 6.1 and don't want to lose it.

The set has no audio input processing to sync up with video. It will actually convert Dolby multi-channel to stereo. It's absolutely useless in that regard.

The set has no audio input processing to sync up with video. It will actually convert Dolby multi-channel to stereo. It's absolutely useless in that regard.

OH.....MY......GOD....!!!!!

Firewire does pass-through DD perfectly, so if you have a cable box, DVHS, whatever and don't mind having to switch sources to see the menu, then it works fine. (This is how I do it).

I am passing OTA Dolby Digital audio to my receiver via the optical output on the TV.

Oh.. I should also mention that with my particular DVD player I'm going into the xx67w via Component input and to my audio receiver via digital coax. In this particular realm I've preset my audio delay on my receiver to 85ms after using an optimizing DVD. So in this instance, yes, I have to correct for leading audio.

Once I thought about that, I imagine the majority of xx67w owners are using a set-top-box for cable/satellite and thus would most likely experience the same type of scenario. I'm using a Cable Card, so everything is happening internally without audio and video being split before the television. This is probably why I experience lagging audio vs. leading audio. So I guess I take back what I said originally. If you're using a STB, you actually luck out on the audio side because you can most always correct it by delaying it. In my case, I'm screwed on the audio side, but I really love the picture quality I get! What a trade off!

i don't know of anyone using the cable card because you lose the ability for pay-per-view and pay channels like HBO/SHOWTIME and sports packages... which are a good portion of the HD content channels. Great concept, but poor execution just like most things in the home theater realm.

and as for the pass-through audio, indeed you lose the 5.1 ... to stereo.

perhaps you can talk to felston and they'll create a digital video delay... :cool:

I am passing OTA Dolby Digital audio to my receiver via the optical output on the TV.

I guess I should have said Dolby audio inputs via HDMI from DVDs or STBs won't pass through the set and are instead, converted to stereo.

Ok. So when can I expect my bulb to blow? I need to prepare and perhaps go ahead and buy a backup. That way I'm not without when the time comes. Thanks

Ok. So when can I expect my bulb to blow? I need to prepare and perhaps go ahead and buy a backup. That way I'm not without when the time comes. Thanks

Very wise decision! They are rated for 6000 hours, but you never know. Downtime sucks! Most people don't realize that their set is a projector and will need a lamp until their set is dark.

Depending on where you are in your warrenty, you could try to get a bulb out of it by saying you have some kind of problem.

My set did have a problem, where it would turn off by itself, and the lights flashing indicated the "lamp cover" was loose. It wasn't, I hadn't touched it. Got a service appoitnment, of course we couldn't reproduce it, so the guy didn't even hesitate and put in a brand new digital board, which includes the bulb. Done in not even an hour, they know what they are doing. So I got a brand new blub 10 months after I got my TV:) I asked him if he has replaced a lot of digital boards, he said "not really". Can't see any difference in the new one other than some slightly different normal operating sounds from the fans.

Didn't realize it then, but if I had had the set calibrated i would be PISSED that it would be totally wiped out.

Depending on where you are in your warrenty, you could try to get a bulb out of it by saying you have some kind of problem.

My set did have a problem, where it would turn off by itself, and the lights flashing indicated the "lamp cover" was loose. It wasn't, I hadn't touched it. Got a service appoitnment, of course we couldn't reproduce it, so the guy didn't even hesitate and put in a brand new digital board, which includes the bulb. Done in not even an hour, they know what they are doing. So I got a brand new blub 10 months after I got my TV:) I asked him if he has replaced a lot of digital boards, he said "not really". Can't see any difference in the new one other than some slightly different normal operating sounds from the fans.

Didn't realize it then, but if I had had the set calibrated i would be PISSED that it would be totally wiped out.

I have had my set for a little over 2 months now. So, if I called and said man my dang bulb just went out. They will send me another or will they send someone out to do it? Thanks

Wohoooo!

100 pages of invaluable information on our beloved Sammy sets.

I congratulate all who have contributed their knowledge and advice to these pages and hereby give you all tomorrow off in celebration!

Here's to another 100 pages of information as we watch our HDTV's grow up and experience thousands of hours of programming!

CHEERS!

I have had my set for a little over 2 months now. So, if I called and said man my dang bulb just went out. They will send me another or will they send someone out to do it? Thanks

Advocating theft by deception isn't intelligent. Theft is theft! What goes around, comes around! Besides, you may trade a 10,000 hr lamp for a 600 hr lamp. It happens. ;)

They will send someone to evaluate your allegation. If or when they replace a lamp they take the original.

Advocating theft by deception isn't intelligent. Theft is theft! What goes around, comes around! Besides, you may trade a 10,000 hr lamp for a 600 hr lamp. It happens. ;)

They will send someone to evaluate your allegation. If or when they replace a lamp they take the original.

Relax. I was just checkin lol. You would think for 2,000$ we could at least get 2 bulbs out of the deal.

Doesn't the $2,000 cover the cost of the television set itself? Wouldn't the television set plus a spare bulb cost therefore need to cost more?

My 11 yr old Sony rear projection died last week so I embarked on a search for a new tv. I settled on either the 6768 or the 60in. Grand WEGA. Circuit City made me a deal on the 6768 that I couldn't pass up. Now that it's home and hooked up, I can be far enough away from it to see that the upper and lower LEFT corners are darker then the rest of the screen. The right corners seem normal. I can't find any settings that would effect the corners or positioning. Has anyone else had this issue? It is a little distracting and I'm wondering if the WEGA would have been a better choice.

Advocating theft by deception isn't intelligent. Theft is theft! What goes around, comes around! Besides, you may trade a 10,000 hr lamp for a 600 hr lamp. It happens. ;)

They will send someone to evaluate your allegation. If or when they replace a lamp they take the original.

This is a good point, it's always a crap shoot. But your original lamp might only last 600hrs. Any given bulb can only last 600 hours. I'd see how many hours you have on your lamp like 11 months into your warrenty.

When I called, they sent my information to a local company that handled samsung repairs. They called me(or I called them, can't remember), and I got saturday morn appointment only a few days in advance(I was impressed). If they replace something, they will install it and take the old one, they aren't gonna just drop off a box.

Of course if they box up the old bulb, check your dumpsters if you live in an apartment like me:)

hey guys, I just picked up the HLR5067w at Best Buy for 1499 with 10% off of that. I like it so far. Any tips or suggetsions to tweak it for better performance?

This is my first post, but I'm in here often seeing what you guys have to say. I bought the HLR5667W about 3 months ago. I've been very happy with the TV...once I got the cable box replaced for the second time.

Anyway, I wanted to purchase an upconvert dvd player, but have a few questions...

I currently have my 3412 cable box connected via HDMI. In order for the upconvert to work, it needs to run through HDMI...but the tv only has one HDMI input...so there's my dilemma.

I use the TV a majority of the time for general TV watching and Xbox 360. So I would prefer to keep the HDMI connected to the cable box.

Would it be worth purchasing the upconvert dvd player and using component for it?

Would the picture be any better than my current progressive scan dvd player?

What was Samsung's rationale for only providing one HDMI input? I see the new version has two.

Just curious how other people have theirs connected.

Thanks

I've got a related question. Is there any downside to connecting a Motorola 6412 HD DVR box to the '87 using HDMI? I ask because I'm going to be filling the two Component Video slots with the DVD player and my old TiVo.

This is my first post, but I'm in here often seeing what you guys have to say. I bought the HLR5667W about 3 months ago. I've been very happy with the TV...once I got the cable box replaced for the second time.

Anyway, I wanted to purchase an upconvert dvd player, but have a few questions...

I currently have my 3412 cable box connected via HDMI. In order for the upconvert to work, it needs to run through HDMI...but the tv only has one HDMI input...so there's my dilemma.

I use the TV a majority of the time for general TV watching and Xbox 360. So I would prefer to keep the HDMI connected to the cable box.

Would it be worth purchasing the upconvert dvd player and using component for it?

Would the picture be any better than my current progressive scan dvd player?

What was Samsung's rationale for only providing one HDMI input? I see the new version has two.

Just curious how other people have theirs connected.

Thanks
I'll be watching for responses to this post since I'm in the same situation with the one HDMI slot and wanting to upconvert

I want to have stereo & surround sound amplified from my HLR5667W thru my receiver, I'm missing some great sound on Bravo & HDNet concerts. So wouldn't the logical thing to do would be to run a optical cable from the Sammy to my receiver?

I want to have stereo & surround sound amplified from my HLR5667W thru my receiver, I'm missing some great sound on Bravo & HDNet concerts. So wouldn't the logical thing to do would be to run a optical cable from the Sammy to my receiver?

I assume you are using the one of the internal tuners on the tv. The answer is yes, running the optical out from your tv to your receiver will yield you great sound overall, even better sound on the channels that support dolby digital.

I use my Comcast 3412 and DVHS over Firewire. To my eyes it looks better. Only problem is that in order to see menus you'll have to use S-Video. No problem for me as it frees up the HDMI port for Blu-Ray PS3 when I buy one.

As for DVD over Component, I think my Sony 400 disc changer looks excellent, and I honestly think there will be little different over HDMI. It appears Firewire is where the real improvement lies.

Anyway, I wanted to purchase an upconvert dvd player, but have a few questions...

I currently have my 3412 cable box connected via HDMI. In order for the upconvert to work, it needs to run through HDMI...but the tv only has one HDMI input...so there's my dilemma.

I use the TV a majority of the time for general TV watching and Xbox 360. So I would prefer to keep the HDMI connected to the cable box.

Would it be worth purchasing the upconvert dvd player and using component for it?

Would the picture be any better than my current progressive scan dvd player?

Thanks
I currently have just a progressive scan DVD player connected to my HL-R5067W, so I can't comment on whether or not you'll get better PQ with an upconverting player. I have read a number of posts on this thread recommending an upconverting player. But I've also read a number of posts indicating that they've seen no significant improvement in PQ with an upconverting DVD vs. a progressive scan player. So it sounds like it's entirely dependent on how discriminant an eye you have.

If you decide you want to go with an upconverting DVD player, you have a couple of options. You can purchase an HDMI switcher, so that you can connect multiple devices via HDMI. Or, from what I've read in this thread and others, there are some hacks for certain players that will allow them to upconvert via component. And then there's the last resort. You can unplug your cable box from HDMI and plug in your DVD into the HDMI every time you want to watch a DVD.

Thanks for responding to my post. I wasn't even aware that HDMI switchers existed...I'll probably go that route. Do you think PQ will be affected? Do you have a specific one to recommend?

Thanks for responding to my post. I wasn't even aware that HDMI switchers existed...I'll probably go that route. Do you think PQ will be affected? Do you have a specific one to recommend?

I'd recommend Monoprice.com. It is very affordable, works get, remote control, etc. They have a 2 input or 5 input. 2 input is cheaper, but obviously 5 input would help you in the future tremendously.

No, HDMI is digital, so there should be no PQ loss.

Thanks for responding to my post. I wasn't even aware that HDMI switchers existed...I'll probably go that route. Do you think PQ will be affected? Do you have a specific one to recommend?

If you have firewire, you could free up a the HDMI by using it. The new HD disk players will do upconversion. If you have the money to put towards a new player until the new players are accessable you may see a difference by taking an intermediate step to upconversion.. Personally, I'll just wait take take a full step. IMO

If you have firewire, you could free up a the HDMI by using it. The new HD disk players will do upconversion. If you have the money to put towards a new player until the new players are accessable you may see a difference by taking an intermediate step to upconversion.. Personally, I'll just wait take take a full step. IMO


I really don't know a lot about Firewire, how will the picture compare to HDMI?

DaveFi mentioned this as an option a few posts earlier, but also said "Only problem is that in order to see menus you'll have to use S-Video."

So besides for having an extra connection (one connection for HDMI, compared to two for Firewire & S Video)...are there any other negatives?

I appreciate the responses...

Firewire is digital so it should be identical picture and an extra s-video cable should be quite easy. A little hastle for the menues but cheap.

The 360 just had an upgrade allowing for VGA to show DVD's at the TV's native resolution. I've been using component which just gives 480p. Has anyone upgraded to VGA from component since the upgrade? If so, do you see improvements?

The 360 just had an upgrade allowing for VGA to show DVD's at the TV's native resolution. I've been using component which just gives 480p. Has anyone upgraded to VGA from component since the upgrade? If so, do you see improvements?

Just want you to know that your set can only display it's native resolution of 720P no matter what the input used or the input resolution used. It's the way it's made. You could hook up an old analog VCR with 240 interlaced lines of resolution and the set will still scale it to 720P. It will look like enlarged crap, but that's what happens when you scale up a crappy image.

I've seen several folks comment that using the VGA for the 360 eliminates the possibility of game lag. I would expect it could help a lip/sync condition with the DVDs too.

Just want you to know that your set can only display it's native resolution of 720P no matter what the input used or the input resolution used. It's the way it's made. You could hook up an old analog VCR with 240 interlaced lines of resolution and the set will still scale it to 720P. It will look like enlarged crap, but that's what happens when you scale up a crappy image.

I've seen several folks comment that using the VGA for the 360 eliminates the possibility of game lag. I would expect it could help a lip/sync condition with the DVDs too.

Thanks Rez. Yea I guess the new update converts to your TV's resolution now before sending...rather than sending 480p. I've seen on other boards people say there is improvements with DVD picture. Helping with the lip/sync issues is another bonus!!!

This is my first post, but I'm in here often seeing what you guys have to say. I bought the HLR5667W about 3 months ago. I've been very happy with the TV...once I got the cable box replaced for the second time.

Anyway, I wanted to purchase an upconvert dvd player, but have a few questions...

I currently have my 3412 cable box connected via HDMI. In order for the upconvert to work, it needs to run through HDMI...but the tv only has one HDMI input...so there's my dilemma.

I use the TV a majority of the time for general TV watching and Xbox 360. So I would prefer to keep the HDMI connected to the cable box.

Would it be worth purchasing the upconvert dvd player and using component for it?

Would the picture be any better than my current progressive scan dvd player?

What was Samsung's rationale for only providing one HDMI input? I see the new version has two.

Just curious how other people have theirs connected.

Thanks

Monoprice.com has a nice 5x1 remote (infrared) controlled HDMI switch that works nicely with the 5667W. I have both. My Harmony remote controls the remote switch perfectly. I use an OPPO 971H that has DVI out and it works VERY well with the 5667W using 720p upconversion. As with any source device you will need to calibrate your input for that device (OPPO) to reduce macroblocking and other things. The OPPO thread has information on how to do it. The procedure worked well for me and did not require going into the Service Menu of the 5667W, ymmv however. Keep in mind, the OPPO 971H only does upconversion on the DVI port.

The Harmony remote I got from Sam's Club. I have two specific "Activities" that I'll mention.

1. Watch TV: the Harmony remote seamlessly puts the Sammy on HDMI, the remote hdmi switch to input 1, and my Onkyo Integra Amp to the correct audio source.

2. Watch a Movie: the Harmony puts the Sammy on HDMI, the remote hdmi switch to input 2, and my Onkyo to the correct audio source.

So...you get one button operation of everything from one remote.

Some people have complained about bad macro-blocking with DVD's and the Sammy HDMI input from the OPPO 971H. I have had no such problem with about 15 different DVDs, after calibrating things, and employing the settings recommended on the OPPO thread. There are many happy OPPO/Sammy DLP owners.

One thing to always keep in mind with the 5667W and larger sets:

Garbage In = Garbage Out

Highly compressed sources (such as satellite television in standard definition) can look quite poor. Some sat SD pixs are surprisingly good, others are nearly awful. This has NOTHING to do with the 5667W. Poorly mastered DVDs can produce similar results, although I have not had this problem myself. I just witnessed some horrible macroblocking on Fox news during a simulation of the attack that wacked al-zarqawi. The entire upper half of the screen in light blue was full of dancing macroblocking.

Is an upconverting DVD player a good idea with the 5667W? Yes! There is a very obvious increase in "crispness". If I were going to try to describe the improvement: Regular DVD > Upconverted OPPO > True HD, I would say that the upconverted OPPO looks about 50% better than regular dvd and 50% worse than true HD. That is, to me, a very significant improvement for 200 bucks. If you are going to watch a lot of DVDs, then consider the OPPO 971H for your 5667W.

The very best picture you can see on your 5667W will be from the internal Over The Air (OTA) built in tuner on the 5667W. It is the least compressed source and produces absolutely stunning television. Every other source is more compressed or lower resolution than the ATSC/OTA tuner in the 5667W, so get an antenna connected to the Sammy and pull in all the OTA stuff you can.

Quality of Source vs. Picture Quality when viewed on my HL-R5667W Sammy)

1. OTA HD internal 5667w Tuner (lowest compression, 720p and 1080i source)
2. Satellite HD (Discovery HD Theater may be the best)
3. Satellite NFL Sunday Ticket HD (they give those channels more bandwidth)
4. OPPO 971H Upconverted DVDs
4a DVD non-upconverted 480 progressive
5. Satellite Standard Definition (SD), selected channels (a few, not most)
6. OTA SD channels (analog)
7. Satellite Standard Definition Local Channels (awful)
8. Satellite SD channels (worse than awfl, many channels)
9. NFL Sunday Ticket SD channels: ABSOLUTE RUBBISH!

Hope this helps ya.

10. PAX (SD) sat programming. Absolute bottom of barrel, unfortunately many international sporting events like Track and Field that are otherwise unavailable. Station on shoestring budget and looks like it. Group Hurl.

Good ratings Augiestyle :rolleyes:

Firewire is much more than 2 connections- you can chain a certain number of devices, and it's pretty cool when it works. I have both my DVHS and Comcast 3412 working over Firewire, and as I said before I think it looks better than HDMI.

I think Firewire input looks better because it is using the Samsung's internal electronics to scale to 720p rather than the DVHS and cable boxes'. If you saw a DTheater tape over Firewire I think you'd see what I meant. But try DVR'ing a good looking movie like "Sith" off HBO, and then compare. It's clear Firewire is much crisper and clearer than both Component and HDMI.

10. PAX (SD) sat programming. Absolute bottom of barrel, unfortunately many international sporting events like Track and Field that are otherwise unavailable. Station on shoestring budget and looks like it. Group Hurl.

Good ratings Augiestyle :rolleyes:


Quoting myself:

Some sat SD pixs are surprisingly good, others are nearly awful.

PAX certainly fits your observation, that's why it isn't as simple as saying SD Sat is terrible...some of it is just awful, yet others can be surprisingly acceptable. Glad to see others have noticed the amazing variability of "source" material, even from the same satellite/dvd/etc. Always something that must be considered when attempting to evaluate the Sammy. Overall, I couldn't be more pleased with my 5667W. Money well spent, and the OPPO has been the same. I didn't have great hopes, and turned out to be a pleasant surprise.

One thing to always keep in mind with the 5667W and larger sets:

Garbage In = Garbage Out

Highly compressed sources (such as satellite television in standard definition) can look quite poor. Some sat SD pixs are surprisingly good, others are nearly awful. This has NOTHING to do with the 5667W. Poorly mastered DVDs can produce similar results, although I have not had this problem myself. I just witnessed some horrible macroblocking on Fox news during a simulation of the attack that wacked al-zarqawi. The entire upper half of the screen in light blue was full of dancing macroblocking.

Is an upconverting DVD player a good idea with the 5667W? Yes! There is a very obvious increase in "crispness". If I were going to try to describe the improvement: Regular DVD > Upconverted OPPO > True HD, I would say that the upconverted OPPO looks about 50% better than regular dvd and 50% worse than true HD. That is, to me, a very significant improvement for 200 bucks. If you are going to watch a lot of DVDs, then consider the OPPO 971H for your 5667W.

The very best picture you can see on your 5667W will be from the internal Over The Air (OTA) built in tuner on the 5667W. It is the least compressed source and produces absolutely stunning television. Every other source is more compressed or lower resolution than the ATSC/OTA tuner in the 5667W, so get an antenna connected to the Sammy and pull in all the OTA stuff you can.

Quality of Source vs. Picture Quality when viewed on my HL-R5667W Sammy)

1. OTA HD internal 5667w Tuner (lowest compression, 720p and 1080i source)
2. Satellite HD (Discovery HD Theater may be the best)
3. Satellite NFL Sunday Ticket HD (they give those channels more bandwidth)
4. OPPO 971H Upconverted DVDs
4a DVD non-upconverted 480 progressive
5. Satellite Standard Definition (SD), selected channels (a few, not most)
6. OTA SD channels (analog)
7. Satellite Standard Definition Local Channels (awful)
8. Satellite SD channels (worse than awfl, many channels)
9. NFL Sunday Ticket SD channels: ABSOLUTE RUBBISH!

Hope this helps ya.

I couldn't agree more. Excellent post!

I assume you are using the one of the internal tuners on the tv. The answer is yes, running the optical out from your tv to your receiver will yield you great sound overall, even better sound on the channels that support dolby digital.
Well, I hooked an optical cable up to my Sammy via my receiver and no sound. What am I missing or doing wrong? I have the receiver mode on TV/SAT, have the volume up, mute off.......nothing. Help!!!!

If you are going to watch a lot of DVDs, then consider the OPPO 971H for your 5667W.



Welcome back hasan, you have been missed. How do you feel about the non-faroudja 970?
I have been eyeballing this, and the thread on the dvd forums. closely. however, I do not think I will buy until some of the kinks have been ironed out.

I have been very happy with my OTA signal HD...but I noticed that the resolution only shows up as"HD"... any thoughts?
I also have a question for those of you on the outskirts of civlization...How are you amplifying your signal? I get some good quality signals, and quite a few dropouts. I would like to drop the local channel feed from Dish, but am avoiding this step until I have a more solid signal.