Well, I hooked an optical cable up to my Sammy via my receiver and no sound. What am I missing or doing wrong? I have the receiver mode on TV/SAT, have the volume up, mute off.......nothing. Help!!!!

If your receiver is like most you must go into the receiver's menu and assign optical inputs to the different modes like TV, DVD, sat, V1, V2, V3, etc. Mine has flexible assignments and didn't work until I did this. Check your receiver manual for the menu location of assigned inputs.

Welcome back hasan, you have been missed. How do you feel about the non-faroudja 970?
I have been eyeballing this, and the thread on the dvd forums. closely. however, I do not think I will buy until some of the kinks have been ironed out.

I have been very happy with my OTA signal HD...but I noticed that the resolution only shows up as"HD"... any thoughts?
I also have a question for those of you on the outskirts of civlization...How are you amplifying your signal? I get some good quality signals, and quite a few dropouts. I would like to drop the local channel feed from Dish, but am avoiding this step until I have a more solid signal.

Hi Kevin! I haven't talked to anyone with it yet, but I follow the OPPO group closely. OPPO has fantastic customer support, with lots of beta firmware updates. Whatever probs they do have, they will iron out, and it is VERY easy to upgrade the firmware on the OPPO...just record it to a CD and follow the instructions on their web site.

HD is not a problem, that's how the 5667W shows its OTA HD reception.

I would recommend an antenna mounted preamp that you can get from Solid Signal (google them). Channel Master 0747 is the model I'm using. The proper place for a preamp is at the antenna. If you don't put it up there, you lose the low noise advantage of the preamp because the loss in dB of the coax preceding the input to the preamp is added directly to the noise figure (call this the real quality of merit of a preamp) of the preamp. If the preamp you are interested in has no published noise figure, then don't buy it. Any NF greater than 3 dB is not good. I would look for 2 dB. Don't worry about gain...it is almost NEVER the problem. You only need and want enough gain to "set" or "establish" the noise figure of your system. With typical coax runs of less than 100' (RG-6X), 10 to 15 dB of gain is quite adequate. If you use an antenna mounted preamp DO NOT FORGET TO PROPERLY WATERPROOF IT. (the simple rubber boot they give you is NOT enough)

If you don't put the preamp at the antenna, the coax loss is going to just kill its performance for weak signal work. The loss of RG-6 at uhf (let's say 400 mhz) is 5.6 dB per 100'...put that loss in front of a nice 2 dB noise figure preamp and you have a system noise figure of 7.6 dB....basically DEAF. If, on the other hand you put the 2 dB NF preamp at the antenna, with 15 dB of gain in the preamp, your noise figure (system) stays at very close to 2 dB, because the preamp "sets" the nf of your system. It is the NF and Gain of the FIRST RF DEVICE (preamp in this case) that sets the system noise figure and therefore determines the "sensitivity" of your system. You could have 10 dB of coax loss after a good preamp at the antenna, and you would still have a 2.x dB noise figure.

Is all lost if you can't put the preamp at the antenna? Maybe not.

If you can keep the coax losses in front of the preamp to 1 dB, let's say (which in this case might be 20' of RG-6x), then you would still have an acceptable system NF of 3 dB, if signals are not terribly weak.

In fact, if you have good signals in general and need to "split" those signals to several video devices (VCR, DVR, Sat OTA and the 5667W TV), then it is smart to use the antenna mounted preamp in the house....in other words, use IT as your video distribution amplifier. Most video amps purchased for typical consumer electronics apps have TERRIBLE noise figures. Using a good preamp (designed to go at the antenna, but putting it in the house instead), gives you the best of both worlds: plenty of gain, very good noise figure compared to typical distribution amps, and the ability to add splitters AFTER the noise figure has been set ....all because again, the NF is set or limited by the low noise preamp, WHEREVER you put it. The more loss in front of of it, the poorer its performance will be...but compared to a common video distribution amplifier, it will be superior.

You can always add a variable attenuator (available at Radio Shack) at the output of the preamp if you end up having too much gain.

Sorry to be so long winded. Hope it helps, have fun!

If your receiver is like most you must go into the receiver's menu and assign optical inputs to the different modes like TV, DVD, sat, V1, V2, V3, etc. Mine has flexible assignments and didn't work until I did this. Check your receiver manual for the menu location of assigned inputs.I've done so and have found no way to configure the optical inputs in the Samsung HT-Q40.

I've done so and have found no way to configure the optical inputs in the Samsung HT-Q40.

There appears to be only one optical input port. I see what may be a digital coax port and then some analog RCA type inputs. Looking at your manual, it says press AUX on the remote to switch between three possible modes, Digital In, AUX 1, and AUX 2. I suppose you have done this. There is a Sound menu in the set to select PCM or Dolby. I suppose you have checked this too. If so, I'm leaning toward a bad optical cable. It happens!

Well, I hooked an optical cable up to my Sammy via my receiver and no sound. What am I missing or doing wrong? I have the receiver mode on TV/SAT, have the volume up, mute off.......nothing. Help!!!!

Problem solved. I was using the wrong port on the Sammy. I need glasses. WOW what great sound? HDNet aired a U2 concert last night and my house was thumpin'.

[QUOTE=hasan] With typical coax runs of less than 100' (RG-6X), 10 to 15 dB of gain is quite adequate. If you use an antenna mounted preamp DO NOT FORGET TO PROPERLY WATERPROOF IT. (the simple rubber boot they give you is NOT enough)

If you don't put the preamp at the antenna, the coax loss is going to just kill its performance for weak signal work. The loss of RG-6 at uhf (let's say 400 mhz) is 5.6 dB per 100'...put that loss in front of a nice 2 dB noise figure preamp and you have a system noise figure of 7.6 dB....basically DEAF. If, on the other hand you put the 2 dB NF preamp at the antenna, with 15 dB of gain in the preamp, your noise figure (system) stays at very close to 2 dB, because the preamp "sets" the nf of your system. It is the NF and Gain of the FIRST RF DEVICE (preamp in this case) that sets the system noise figure and therefore determines the "sensitivity" of your system. You could have 10 dB of coax loss after a good preamp at the antenna, and you would still have a 2.x dB noise figure.

Thought I would stick my 2 cents in on this discussion. I had a conversation with an AV installer a while back concerning the different varieties of RG-6, and this is the gist of what he said:

For a run from an antenna to set, or box, or whatever, RG-6 quad shield is preferable. For runs from a dish, or internally (inside the house), conventional RG-6 is actually better than quad shield. There's also RG-6 with a copper-coated steel center conductor as opposed to one that's all copper. The all copper is significantly better, even though it may cost quite a bit more - copper is at all an-time high lately.

I'd like to hear if there are contrasting opinions on this...

[QUOTE=hasan] With typical coax runs of less than 100' (RG-6X), 10 to 15 dB of gain is quite adequate. If you use an antenna mounted preamp DO NOT FORGET TO PROPERLY WATERPROOF IT. (the simple rubber boot they give you is NOT enough)

If you don't put the preamp at the antenna, the coax loss is going to just kill its performance for weak signal work. The loss of RG-6 at uhf (let's say 400 mhz) is 5.6 dB per 100'...put that loss in front of a nice 2 dB noise figure preamp and you have a system noise figure of 7.6 dB....basically DEAF. If, on the other hand you put the 2 dB NF preamp at the antenna, with 15 dB of gain in the preamp, your noise figure (system) stays at very close to 2 dB, because the preamp "sets" the nf of your system. It is the NF and Gain of the FIRST RF DEVICE (preamp in this case) that sets the system noise figure and therefore determines the "sensitivity" of your system. You could have 10 dB of coax loss after a good preamp at the antenna, and you would still have a 2.x dB noise figure.

Thought I would stick my 2 cents in on this discussion. I had a conversation with an AV installer a while back concerning the different varieties of RG-6, and this is the gist of what he said:

For a run from an antenna to set, or box, or whatever, RG-6 quad shield is preferable. For runs from a dish, or internally (inside the house), conventional RG-6 is actually better than quad shield. There's also RG-6 with a copper-coated steel center conductor as opposed to one that's all copper. The all copper is significantly better, even though it may cost quite a bit more - copper is at all an-time high lately.

I'd like to hear if there are contrasting opinions on this...

Coax loss is almost entirely a function of the size of the center conductor of the coax and has next to nothing to do with the number of shieldds or amount of shield coverage unless it is just ridiculously undercovered. This is the reason I used RG-6 as the name of the cable...for loss purposes there are no differences, unless the center conductor diameter of 6x or quad-shield is larger...I've not measured them. Dielectric losses at this freq are not much of a consideration (the poly surrounding the center conductor).

There are other considerations like constant impedance vs. freq, where certified, swept cables are more reliable with lower loss, but if the cable is constructed properly in the first place, it shouldn't be an issue.

As far as one cable being better than another for internal vs. external use, there are only 3 possible considerations:

1. Loss
2. Shielding
3. Weather ratings


I doubt quad shield is higher loss than normal 6X. The chances of 6 vs 6x shielding being "poor" are slim. In essence, use the coax with the lowest loss, and at least reasonable shielding (and considering all of them have 100% aluminum shield anyway) for ALL your coax needs. The idea that 6X or Quad shield should be used variably based on indoor or outdoor to dish is borderline silly, unless there are physical constraints that aren't being talked about.

Electrically there isn't enough difference to decide one way or the other...they both will have the same loss if the center conductors are the same size (and I believe they are). Well designed 6X is probably cheaper than Quad Shield 6x, and I would be inclined to use it for long runs, to be sure. I would have no reservation about using it in house for the interconnects as well. The increased shielding value of Quad vs regular is largely imaginary and un-needed. 100% foil coverage along with basic braid coverage (as most decent 6x cables have), is more than adequate.

Copper coated vs. solid copper center conductor is only an issue if the copper coating is so thin that is less than the "RF skin depth" (another RF term) required at the receiving frequency. That is VERY unlikely. Consider 3/4" diameter alumaflex cable used by the big cable companies. It has a 1/8" diameter center conductor that is only copper plated and the MEASURED losses are outstandingly low (I know, I've made them). The issue of plate vs solid copper is a non-issue. Again, it is the size of the center conductor that determines loss, in properly designed coaxial cable, period.

Lastly, most people who sell cable, do installs, or otherwise advise consumers in the area of RF performance are about as ill-informed as one can get. A healthy amount of skepticism is due toward anyone whose job it is to make money from their advice (at least at the consumer level) in the electronics industry. Caveat Emptor!

Also, this is going to be my last post on this topic as it seem WAY off topic for the forum, and I apoligize to all for the long-winded spiral away from the basic performance of the HL-R5667W ATSC tuner.

Anybody catch Star Wars: Episode III on HBO HD this weekend? WOW that looked GREAT on my set compared to the DVD being upconverted...

I DVR'd it to use for testing settings too - I thought it showed what these sets can really do when given a good signal. (I saw no gradiations, macro blocking, or anything we usually complain about).

If you didn't catch it - it's playing the next couple of days at odd hours (check your listings).

GO OILERS!

Problem solved. I was using the wrong port on the Sammy. I need glasses. WOW what great sound? HDNet aired a U2 concert last night and my house was thumpin'.

Indeed - that concert was great both in video production and audio. I just wish I could transfer that audio from my DVR to the PC via USB... : (

There appears to be only one optical input port. I see what may be a digital coax portNo. The only coax port is to plug in an FM antenna.

and then some analog RCA type inputs. Looking at your manual, it says press AUX on the remote to switch between three possible modes, Digital In, AUX 1, and AUX 2. I suppose you have done this.Yes.There is a Sound menu in the set to select PCM or Dolby. I suppose you have checked this too.That only works when in DVD mode. As far as I can tell, it has no impact on the HT when an external input is selected.

If so, I'm leaning toward a bad optical cable. It happens!However, the same exact optical cable works perfectly fine when connecting the cable box to the HT directly. If anything, it would tend to indicate a problem with the optical output port on the new television. I think I need to find a cleaner feed for the television, i.e., direct coax from the wall. Then tune in a local HD channel during prime-time and see what I get in terms of volume.

Hi all,

I am a newbie to the site and joined for a specific reason. I am having trouble with my 5667. I have a Sony VAIO laptop that I am trying to hook up to the TV to use that as a monitor and for some reason, the TV will not display "PC" as an "active" source. I have tried a lot to get it to work but have had no luck! If anyone can help, that would be greatly appreciated.

Hi all,

I am a newbie to the site and joined for a specific reason. I am having trouble with my 5667. I have a Sony VAIO laptop that I am trying to hook up to the TV to use that as a monitor and for some reason, the TV will not display "PC" as an "active" source. I have tried a lot to get it to work but have had no luck! If anyone can help, that would be greatly appreciated.

I can't claim to have much experience with PC connections to these sets, but I do know that laptops are the most difficult. When you add a monitor to a laptop it wants to act as an extension of the laptop's screen instead of being an independent display. I don't know of a video card driver that will correctly recognize the monitor separately. That said, you're not even getting to that point. On your laptop, go to control panel, display, and settings. There is a pull down menu that will either show a driver for multiple monitors or not. If not, you have to go to control panel, system, hardware tab, and click on device manager, then click display adapters. Double click your video card and click on the driver tab to look for and possibly update your driver for multiple monitors. If you are successful, the set will become an extention of your desktop, which means that if you drag your curser across your laptop display far enough, you will see the curser appear on your set. While this type of extended desktop provides some functionality, it's not really what I wanted to see. I Googled to try and find a way for my laptop to operate completely seperate from it's own display and discovered that it would not. If anyone knows a way around this problem, please, share it with us.

Hi all,

I am a newbie to the site and joined for a specific reason. I am having trouble with my 5667. I have a Sony VAIO laptop that I am trying to hook up to the TV to use that as a monitor and for some reason, the TV will not display "PC" as an "active" source. I have tried a lot to get it to work but have had no luck! If anyone can help, that would be greatly appreciated.

I assume you are knowledgeable about connecting the vga cable, then hitting the [FN] + F8 key (on Dells) - may be a different Function key on Sony... I think IBM's were F5 keys. You toggle the VGA output from the laptop with this function key... it will cycle through the various modes (output only/output plus laptop display/laptop only) etc...

If you are already doing this plus trying the advice above, then try turning the set on after you make the connection? I've had sync issues with laptops to other displays like projectors and such, where if the other device was already on, it didn't recognize the change in the port activity.

Good luck

No. The only coax port is to plug in an FM antenna.

Yes.That only works when in DVD mode. As far as I can tell, it has no impact on the HT when an external input is selected.

However, the same exact optical cable works perfectly fine when connecting the cable box to the HT directly. If anything, it would tend to indicate a problem with the optical output port on the new television. I think I need to find a cleaner feed for the television, i.e., direct coax from the wall. Then tune in a local HD channel during prime-time and see what I get in terms of volume.

The optical output on the TV will switch between whatever input is active. So just run a simple composite video and stereo cable (standard yellow, red, white) cable from a DVD player or something to one of the composite inputs, select that input, and the source will be sent out the optical to the receiver. If you don't have internal mute on in the sound menu you will also hear it on the TV speakers. If you don't hear the audio, the TVs broke or the stero is set up wrong. If that happens then verify the stero is ok by running an optical cable directly from the DVD player to the stero. Just find the broken end. I have every input hooked up with analog audio inputs too so that my family doesn't have to mess with the receiver...just select source and sound and video come up on the TV. Anything with digital outputs in hook directly to the receiver digital inputs. If your cable isn't bad and the stereo isn't brok, then you have a faulty optical port.

Thanks captainDLP. It's strange because a different hook-up seems to address my problem: Instead of putting all the connections (from the new cable box and from the old TiVo) through the television, and then from there to the home theater, I'm now direcing all video to the television (via HDMI from the new cable box, and via composite video from the old TiVo -- this is because of Closed Captioning, as I discusss in a different thread) and directing all audio to the home theater (via optical from the new cable box, and via RCA cables from the old TiVo). It's a little more work switching sources (because I have to switch source on both the television and the home theater) but I'm clearly getting DD5.1 now, from both devices, now.

Thanks captainDLP. It's strange because a different hook-up seems to address my problem: Instead of putting all the connections (from the new cable box and from the old TiVo) through the television, and then from there to the home theater, I'm now direcing all video to the television (via HDMI from the new cable box, and via composite video from the old TiVo -- this is because of Closed Captioning, as I discusss in a different thread) and directing all audio to the home theater (via optical from the new cable box, and via RCA cables from the old TiVo). It's a little more work switching sources (because I have to switch source on both the television and the home theater) but I'm clearly getting DD5.1 now, from both devices, now.

That is how my HDMI setup works. Sat Box and OPPO go to an HDMI switch, all audio is routed to the receiver for switching. Progressive video is handled by the receiver switching. Unless your receiver has hdmi switching (and most older don't), you end up not using the audio portion of hdmi for anything at all (unless you consider listening to your tv speakers as "home theater".

Hi Rez, HD Hockey Guy,

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I have tried all of that and at this point, I do know that the laptop picks up the monitor as a separate display when i connect the cable, however the TV setup menu does not recognize that at all! Basically, Input Source should make "PC" as an available optiopn along with the others but it does not! The laptop switches between the modes and when I keep monitor only, the laptop screen is blank but the TV input source still does not pick up PC as an input. For the TV, it's as if there is only my TV and DVD connection. I am thinking this could be a TV issue as opposed to a laptop issue. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

Hi Rez, HD Hockey Guy,

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I have tried all of that and at this point, I do know that the laptop picks up the monitor as a separate display when i connect the cable, however the TV setup menu does not recognize that at all! Basically, Input Source should make "PC" as an available optiopn along with the others but it does not! The laptop switches between the modes and when I keep monitor only, the laptop screen is blank but the TV input source still does not pick up PC as an input. For the TV, it's as if there is only my TV and DVD connection. I am thinking this could be a TV issue as opposed to a laptop issue. Any ideas? Thanks for your help.

As inprobable as it is, it sounds like a dead connector on the TV vga input. It's not detecting the connection physically at all. My TV detects the cable regardless of the signal being present, as my cable it always plugged into the TV so I can just plug in my laptop and go... so it works fine. If you're not even able to cycle to the PC on your inputs then something is wrong on the TV side of the port.

Have you tried a different cable? I'm reaching here, but perhaps one of the pins isn't mapping to the 'trigger' that lets the TV detect the connection? (Maybe take your cable to a local retailer and make sure it works on their demo model).

I'm trying to recall if there's anything in the setup menu you can do for the inputs (like the labels, input modes like pc-wide and such) that might help....

You could always put in a call to a tech for service - it's in warranty right? I know it seems silly for a little thing like this but if it's broke it's broke.

As inprobable as it is, it sounds like a dead connector on the TV vga input. It's not detecting the connection physically at all. My TV detects the cable regardless of the signal being present, as my cable it always plugged into the TV so I can just plug in my laptop and go... so it works fine. If you're not even able to cycle to the PC on your inputs then something is wrong on the TV side of the port.

Have you tried a different cable? I'm reaching here, but perhaps one of the pins isn't mapping to the 'trigger' that lets the TV detect the connection? (Maybe take your cable to a local retailer and make sure it works on their demo model).

I'm trying to recall if there's anything in the setup menu you can do for the inputs (like the labels, input modes like pc-wide and such) that might help....

You could always put in a call to a tech for service - it's in warranty right? I know it seems silly for a little thing like this but if it's broke it's broke.


HockeyGuy

I tried 2 different cables but both had 14 pins (the high density stuff you get nowadays have 14 pins as opposed to the regular 15 pin, its still called 15 pin though!? wonder why?). I can try out the 15 pin one as well this evening.

Yes, the TV is in warranty, do I just call Samsung or do I have to do anything else?

Thanks.

I've only had my 5667 for a year now, but I want to buy a spare bulb for when the time comes. Could anyone recommend the highest quality bulb for the best deal? What bulb do I buy? Thanks in advance!

I've only had my 5667 for a year now, but I want to buy a spare bulb for when the time comes. Could anyone recommend the highest quality bulb for the best deal? What bulb do I buy? Thanks in advance!

There is no highest quality bulb. Lamps are proprietary to Samsung and specific to each model. Look on the left side of the set for the lamp sticker. See if it's an ...826A or an ...01073A. Both are usually found new in the box on eBay by searching for Samsung lamp. The other alternative is: www.samsungparts.com

HockeyGuy

I tried 2 different cables but both had 14 pins (the high density stuff you get nowadays have 14 pins as opposed to the regular 15 pin, its still called 15 pin though!? wonder why?). I can try out the 15 pin one as well this evening.

Yes, the TV is in warranty, do I just call Samsung or do I have to do anything else?

Thanks.

If it's past the 30 days or whatever the time is it covered from where you purchased, then yes, contact samsung support per the manual instruction in the back and go from there. They will find the support provider in your area to arrange the service call.

If you purchased an extended warranty and it is now covered under that protection, call the number they provided instead - they will coordinate the service call - not samsung.

Good luck!

Can you output the video from the laptop to ANY other external video device e.g. a projector? Can you rule out the laptop as the issue?

Can you output the video from the laptop to ANY other external video device e.g. a projector? Can you rule out the laptop as the issue?


brego, I do not have any other external video device except the TV :(

The laptop does not seem to be the issue since it picks up that an external display device has been connected to it.

I have a 360 hooked up via vga. I also use media center on the 360 quite a bit. My problem is that I can't seem to get the picture to fit perfectly on my tv.(HLR5067w). I can get it to take up the whole screen but I know there are parts of the picture on one side getting cut off. I am using 1280x720 resolution and widescreen tv mode. I tried PC mode on the tv with less luck. Any tips?

I'll be watching for responses to this post since I'm in the same situation with the one HDMI slot and wanting to upconvert


I have owned this set since easter, I have the Oppo DVD player (4th different player so far) and it is the best DVD player I've had hooked up. There is a big difference going thru HDMI. I bought a switcher thru Monoprice.com (they are one of the sponser on the banner of this site. I got the cheap one and it works great. They also have good HDMI cables on the cheap. I also have my Sammy H20 sat box hooked into it. So far this set looks great with good source video. Some DVD's are really nice, others are so,so. Just like some HD channels are great and some are good. I would definitly opt for the 5 into one enhanced switcher if you plan on hooking up a lot of HDMI devices. If you use a Harmony remote, you can program macros into the remote which will make switching between devices relatively seamless, the remote will control which device gets turned on and which gets turned off and will control the switcher. I bought my el-cheapo just to get by but will get the bigger one as I need it. I don't know why there is only one HDMI port on the TV, but this is a good workaround.

I have owned this set since easter, I have the Oppo DVD player (4th different player so far) and it is the best DVD player I've had hooked up. There is a big difference going thru HDMI. I bought a switcher thru Monoprice.com (they are one of the sponser on the banner of this site. I got the cheap one and it works great. They also have good HDMI cables on the cheap. I also have my Sammy H20 sat box hooked into it. So far this set looks great with good source video. Some DVD's are really nice, others are so,so. Just like some HD channels are great and some are good. I would definitly opt for the 5 into one enhanced switcher if you plan on hooking up a lot of HDMI devices. If you use a Harmony remote, you can program macros into the remote which will make switching between devices relatively seamless, the remote will control which device gets turned on and which gets turned off and will control the switcher. I bought my el-cheapo just to get by but will get the bigger one as I need it. I don't know why there is only one HDMI port on the TV, but this is a good workaround.
Your experience is IDENTICAL to mine, with very similar equipment (5567W, Monoprice 5x1 HDMI switcher, Harmony Remote, OPPO 971H) Incidentally, I got my Harmony Remote at Sam's Club for $79.00. (just don't drop it on a tile floor)

I noticed a few pages back where some people were having problems with their Samsung going dim, bright , dim etc. I started having that problem with my 5667 except it gradually got worse to where it stayed dim, also had issues with rattles in the tv with certain bass sounds. I bought my set back in August of 2005 and it has been wonderful up until about a month ago, I called samsung tech support and they were very helpful setting me up with a local service company. Samsung told my I had the in-home service warranty and that the company would come out and service my tv. That was the end of my good times, the service guy shows up on a Friday, June 9, and doesn't even look at my tv. He proceeds to take it with him, I am out of the house at the time, so I call the service people and ask what the deal is. Well the issues I have with these so called service people over the next week would take another whole page to explain but I finally got my tv back today, June 19. I was all excited to finally have it back!!! It lasted about 1 hour, then the tv started cutting on and off and making high pitched sounds with all the lights flashing on the front. Sometimes it will come back on after a few minutes, sometimes 30 minutes!!! I called Samsung yet again, about the 6 or 7 call in a week and a half and they are referring me to a different service center. This has been the most awful experience I have ever had with any kind of service on anything. Samsung said they would make things right for me and I really hope they do, because I have been praising them ever since I bought this set, but this has been ridiculous. But a warning if it starts dimming and brightening, it will get worse!

I have had my HLR5667W for about 2 months now. The other day I noticed that the TV was cutting off the bottoms of all the pictures even though the picture was taking up the full screen. Such as while watching a sports game the score ticker at the bottom would be half cut off the screen. I also noticed while playing my PS2 I had a black bar at the top. I went into the service menu and adjusted the V-Position to compensate for that. But I am wondering now if the top is going to be cut off?

Has anyone had a problem like this or anyone know a good way to possiblly fix it. I don't like to play around with the service menu too much unless I know what I am doing.

Also anyone have any lip-sync issues with their sammys?

Thanks all.

Hello everyone, first time posting-long time reader.
i love this tv set (Sammy-HLR4667WX) High Def is amazing.
The other day i hooked my pc to the tv via HDMI.
My pc rig is Anthon 3700+ 1gig of ram, 7800 Nvidia GT OC with 2 HDMI outputs.
I am hooking up the pc to the tv using one of the HDMI outputs. I am not using a monitor just to let everyone know. When i view the desktop of the tv, its over expanded, no matter what i do to fix it within the tv or the pc settings, i cant shrink the picture to view the entire desktop.

Any suggestions?
Is there a secret menu section that i am not aware of for this tv?
Thanks

Hello everyone, first time posting-long time reader.
i love this tv set (Sammy-HLR4667WX) High Def is amazing.
The other day i hooked my pc to the tv via HDMI.
My pc rig is Anthon 3700+ 1gig of ram, 7800 Nvidia GT OC with 2 HDMI outputs.
I am hooking up the pc to the tv using one of the HDMI outputs. I am not using a monitor just to let everyone know. When i view the desktop of the tv, its over expanded, no matter what i do to fix it within the tv or the pc settings, i cant shrink the picture to view the entire desktop.

Any suggestions?
Is there a secret menu section that i am not aware of for this tv?
Thanks

Make sure you have the latest Nvidia drivers. There are setting for "HDTVs" that will allow you to shrink the desktop.

I have had my HLR5667W for about 2 months now. The other day I noticed that the TV was cutting off the bottoms of all the pictures even though the picture was taking up the full screen. Such as while watching a sports game the score ticker at the bottom would be half cut off the screen. I also noticed while playing my PS2 I had a black bar at the top. I went into the service menu and adjusted the V-Position to compensate for that. But I am wondering now if the top is going to be cut off?

Has anyone had a problem like this or anyone know a good way to possiblly fix it. I don't like to play around with the service menu too much unless I know what I am doing.

Also anyone have any lip-sync issues with their sammys?

Thanks all.

This might be a stupid question, but did you make sure the aspect wasn't set to zoom1 or zoom2?

This might be a stupid question, but did you make sure the aspect wasn't set to zoom1 or zoom2?That was my first thought too.

i have the same issue.. its not the zoom. espn and ny1 will have the ticker on the bottom cut off... i'm guessing its an overscan issue with the tv. don't think its fixable

i hate the same issue.. its not the zoom. espn and ny1 will have the ticker on the bottom cut off... i'm guessing its an overscan issue with the tv. don't think its fixable

I think this might be a similar issue that I have with the Oppo 971H. So far, there is no fix for this with our models. The older Sammy's had an option for 1:1 pixel mapping.

damn progress =P

I'm hoping for help in solving a problem I'm having with regard to the audio from my upconverting DVD player via HT receiver and my 4667W's internal speakers play at the same time.

Here's my setup: Sony DVP NS75H connected to Monoprice 5X1 HDMI switch to my Sammy's HDMI input. (I'm using the HDMI switch because I'm also using the DVI out of my Comcast HD STB to the switch with a DVI/HDMI cable). I'm using the optical out of the Sony DVD player to the optical in on my HT receiver.

Problem: When playing DVDs I'm getting audio from the 4667W's internal speakers and my HT receiver. I tried using the Sammy's muting feature but it leaves the dumb mute icon on the screen so I'm left with having to turn the Sammy's volume level to zero.

While turning the Sammy' vol level to zero isn't the end of the world, if there is a solution, I would like to try it as it is a pain and an extra step :( in my otherwise glorious and wonderul 1 button macro setup via my Sony AV3100 remote :)

TIA,
Erock

make a macro to disable the internal speakers?

make a macro to disable the internal speakers?

Thanks Matthew. If I knew how to disable my sammy's internal audio I would try. can you outline how I can do this?

To disable it you have to go into the menus. If you can make a macro that goes into the menu and moves around and selects things you should be able to do it.

I believe you hit menu, then down to "sound" then hit the right arrow, then down to "internal mute", right arrow, turn it to "on". Simply disables the internal speakers.

ak3883, thanks for the info. I'll see if my remote can do this. At least I now have some options

Have you looked at the Sony DVP setup menu to see if you could turn the sound off there? My Toshiba SD-K860 wouldn't output sound via the HDMI cable until I switched the audio to PCM mode. Maybe you could switch out of PCM mode on your Sony?

I'm hoping for help in solving a problem I'm having with regard to the audio from my upconverting DVD player via HT receiver and my 4667W's internal speakers play at the same time.

Here's my setup: Sony DVP NS75H connected to Monoprice 5X1 HDMI switch to my Sammy's HDMI input. (I'm using the HDMI switch because I'm also using the DVI out of my Comcast HD STB to the switch with a DVI/HDMI cable). I'm using the optical out of the Sony DVD player to the optical in on my HT receiver.

Problem: When playing DVDs I'm getting audio from the 4667W's internal speakers and my HT receiver. I tried using the Sammy's muting feature but it leaves the dumb mute icon on the screen so I'm left with having to turn the Sammy's volume level to zero.

While turning the Sammy' vol level to zero isn't the end of the world, if there is a solution, I would like to try it as it is a pain and an extra step :( in my otherwise glorious and wonderul 1 button macro setup via my Sony AV3100 remote :)

TIA,
Erock

I have the HLR 5667W and am using Cable card to get my HD premium channels (like Discovery and HBO etc) but alot of the time I will get an error message telling me "Weak signal or scrambled channel" Sometimes the channels will come through just fine but sometimes I get a blank screen/error. The cable company has come out twice and we have tried 3 different cable cards trying to rule out what could be the problem. The signal going into the TV is perfect and the cable company says it is a problem with my TV.

Now Samsung has acknowledged the problem but they do not know how to fix it. So far all they have told me is to turn the tv off and unplug it for 15 minutes. Well that will fix my problem but I hate turning the lamp on and off so much plus if there is a show i am trying to watch it will be over in 15 minutes. Samsung knows their TV's are having problems with the cable cards but they are not sure how to fix it. I am on Tier 3 support with them right now and they even assigned me a personal customer support person who works in the "lab". Heck they even gave me his personal number because they got tired of me calling 1-800-SAMSUNG so much.

So anyway now that you know what is going on, has anybody ever had this problem? Does anybody even use cable card? I just want to watch High Definition shows in peace, without all this turning on and off and unplugging things.

cable cards suck ass.... that's pretty much the beginning and end of it. there might be a chance that the host ID for your card wasn't added to the cable companies computers, but those cards are very hit and miss

What do you think I can get for my slightly used HLR5067W 50" DLP 720p? I paid over $2K about 4 months ago. It's in like-new condition. I even have the box, manuals, etc?

Thanks.

HL-R? Hmmmm.... just guessing here but I suspect you'll be hard-pressed to get even half your investment back.

I have the HLR 5667W and am using Cable card to get my HD premium channels (like Discovery and HBO etc) but alot of the time I will get an error message telling me "Weak signal or scrambled channel" Sometimes the channels will come through just fine but sometimes I get a blank screen/error. The cable company has come out twice and we have tried 3 different cable cards trying to rule out what could be the problem. The signal going into the TV is perfect and the cable company says it is a problem with my TV.

Now Samsung has acknowledged the problem but they do not know how to fix it. So far all they have told me is to turn the tv off and unplug it for 15 minutes. Well that will fix my problem but I hate turning the lamp on and off so much plus if there is a show i am trying to watch it will be over in 15 minutes. Samsung knows their TV's are having problems with the cable cards but they are not sure how to fix it. I am on Tier 3 support with them right now and they even assigned me a personal customer support person who works in the "lab". Heck they even gave me his personal number because they got tired of me calling 1-800-SAMSUNG so much.

So anyway now that you know what is going on, has anybody ever had this problem? Does anybody even use cable card? I just want to watch High Definition shows in peace, without all this turning on and off and unplugging things.

I don't have a cable card, but sometimes(esp on the HD channels in the clear) it takes like 3-5 seconds for the tuner to get the picture, and it has put up the "scrambled or weak signal" message, then it goes away in a couple seconds and I've got the channel. So my TV seems to do something similar... only seems to do ti with the 1st HD channel I go to, if I've been scanning non-HD ones, perhaps it is switching modes or something. But I don't do this much, obviously I use my cable box the vast majority of the time.

Wow, that little? That would only net me about $1,100. My neighbor says he'll give me $1,300, maybe I"ll do it.

Wow, that little? That would only net me about $1,100. My neighbor says he'll give me $1,300, maybe I"ll do it.
It's worth no more than 1600 new so 300 for a few months of use would be much better than I would expect. Especially with the new model pricing!

I have the HLR 5667W and am using Cable card to get my HD premium channels (like Discovery and HBO etc) but alot of the time I will get an error message telling me "Weak signal or scrambled channel" Sometimes the channels will come through just fine but sometimes I get a blank screen/error. The cable company has come out twice and we have tried 3 different cable cards trying to rule out what could be the problem. The signal going into the TV is perfect and the cable company says it is a problem with my TV.

Now Samsung has acknowledged the problem but they do not know how to fix it. So far all they have told me is to turn the tv off and unplug it for 15 minutes. Well that will fix my problem but I hate turning the lamp on and off so much plus if there is a show i am trying to watch it will be over in 15 minutes. Samsung knows their TV's are having problems with the cable cards but they are not sure how to fix it. I am on Tier 3 support with them right now and they even assigned me a personal customer support person who works in the "lab". Heck they even gave me his personal number because they got tired of me calling 1-800-SAMSUNG so much.

So anyway now that you know what is going on, has anybody ever had this problem? Does anybody even use cable card? I just want to watch High Definition shows in peace, without all this turning on and off and unplugging things.

Yes, I use the cable card with BrightHouse and now that I'm on my third card after the first 3-month annoyance (all BrightHouse's cause), I'm loving it. Unlike most people (from what I gather) I have absolutely no need for pay-per-view or inDemand content so the benefit of 100% digital quality (vs. component from a STB) and one less 'box' is welcomed.

I'm not sure if you're saying that (1) the message only appears for a few seconds before the channel comes in, (2) the message appears until you change to another channel and back, or (3) the message simply stays on regardless.

I've seen all three cases so I will explain my workarounds:

1) This is pretty obvious. If the channel appears a few seconds after initially seeing the message, then I'm cool with it. I can wait an extra few seconds. I'm in no hurry. This happens very rarely.

2) The only thing to say here is that I've noticed this happen when going to my HD channel from certain channels at certain times. There doesn't seem to be any traceable pattern, but sometimes the HD channel will just not appear until I first go to a different channel (other than the one I previously came from or kept swapping back and forth to) and then jump from the new channel to my HD channel. Once again, this isn't really too annoying and I can deal with this.

3) This one requires the trick. Firstly, I've never had to unplug the TV for anything. Everyone loves to tell you this because it makes them feel better knowing that you're doing something which will [hopefully] make you THINK that it's some type of 'actual troubleshooting technique'. It doesn't seem to matter what the heck is wrong. When there doesn't appear to be any other resolution, the tech always tells you to unplug the TV for 15 minutes... Whatever! That's just as bad as the cable tech telling you to turn off the TV when you insert your cable card. It's not necessary!

So back to the problem: I've seen this happen in two different forms. Either A) All digital channels will not come in or B) only the subscription channels / premium channels will not come in. In either case, I've found that a simple power-off / power-on sequence fixes the problem every time.

That being said, there is a way to cycle the power without having to cycle the bulb. You can first try a power-off + wait one second + power-on. That works about half of the time and nothing will happen to the bulb. The screen will simply go black for the brief time it was "powered down". If the screen (with channel display) does not come back on immediately after the 2nd push of the power button, simply hit it a third time. Sometimes the Sammy just doesn't like the timing you give it. When it doesn't come right back on after the 2nd push, you still have a good window of time (maybe 3-5 seconds) until the full-blown power down kicks in with the bulb cycle, etc., so don't freak out.

Like I mentioned, every time I have cycled the power like this, my digital and/or subscription channels work again. This one is actually a little bit of an annoyance, because the family members always call for me when it happens, and it does happen more frequently than one would like. I probably have to do this at least once a week.

I think from your post you most likely fall in the #3 category, and I think it's safe to say that the quick power cycle will fix your problem. At least, I hope it does.

Let me know how it goes.

What do you think I can get for my slightly used HLR5067W 50" DLP 720p? I paid over $2K about 4 months ago. It's in like-new condition. I even have the box, manuals, etc?

Thanks.

You can get the new 56" 1080p models for $2200 now, so I would agree with the 50% estimate at this point for a 720p set - and 6" smaller at that. If you can get $1300 - take it. These things are like new cars - they depreciate like 25% right after you take them out of the store.

I can't sell my 56" HL-R5667 for $1,700. I've had it on Craig's List the past couple of months and keep reducing my sale price. There is no resale value on these sets with the new models being released with lower pricing than ever before. I was going to upgrade to the HL-S model, but now I think I will sit tight for a couple of years before I purchase one of the LED models.

I can't sell my 56" HL-R5667 for $1,700. I've had it on Craig's List the past couple of months and keep reducing my sale price. There is no resale value on these sets with the new models being released with lower pricing than ever before. I was going to upgrade to the HL-S model, but now I think I will sit tight for a couple of years before I purchase one of the LED models.
Yes, for sure. Once you've bought it, you're locked in, unless you want to throw money right out the window.

Problem: When playing DVDs I'm getting audio from the 4667W's internal speakers and my HT receiver. I tried using the Sammy's muting feature but it leaves the dumb mute icon on the screen so I'm left with having to turn the Sammy's volume level to zero.
That's strange... I have my DVD player connected to my 5067 via HDMI (just for the video) also, and when I enable the internal mute (thru the menu), I have no mute icon on the screen at all. So you're enabling the mute thru the menu? I assume the 4667 has this option, like my 5067 does?

jayfore,
thank you. I discovered the "internal mute" from the info. AK3883's posted earlier. I was originally talking about using the mute feature from the sammy's remote. That's when I got the mute icon. Since then, I have been able to incorporate a macro on my AV-3100 that mutes the internal speakers when playing DVDs.

Have you looked at the Sony DVP setup menu to see if you could turn the sound off there? My Toshiba SD-K860 wouldn't output sound via the HDMI cable until I switched the audio to PCM mode. Maybe you could switch out of PCM mode on your Sony?

Thanks for the suggestion but I don't want to output audio via the HDMI as my HT receiver isn't digital. I'm using the optical audio out form my DVD palyer.

I'm hoping for help in solving a problem I'm having with regard to the audio from my upconverting DVD player via HT receiver and my 4667W's internal speakers play at the same time.

Here's my setup: Sony DVP NS75H connected to Monoprice 5X1 HDMI switch to my Sammy's HDMI input. (I'm using the HDMI switch because I'm also using the DVI out of my Comcast HD STB to the switch with a DVI/HDMI cable). I'm using the optical out of the Sony DVD player to the optical in on my HT receiver.

Problem: When playing DVDs I'm getting audio from the 4667W's internal speakers and my HT receiver. I tried using the Sammy's muting feature but it leaves the dumb mute icon on the screen so I'm left with having to turn the Sammy's volume level to zero.

While turning the Sammy' vol level to zero isn't the end of the world, if there is a solution, I would like to try it as it is a pain and an extra step :( in my otherwise glorious and wonderul 1 button macro setup via my Sony AV3100 remote :)

TIA,
Erock

erock, I disabled the internal speaker thru the sound menu for the component source on my 4266. I can switch to another source w/ sound on and when I come back to component, sound is still turned off.

Check out your local Radio Shack to see if it is closing. I have bought several different interconnects at 50% off. The Ultra 1000 S-video cable ($15) created sharper text in the interactive cable menu (Knology) and seemed to make the colors brigher. I also added the Ultra 1000 component ($50 for 4 ft) cable for the LG 3510a. Both interconnects go to the HK receiver. both Video signals are sent by component via RJ6 to the 4266 and then I have Monster Cable 2 component btw wall and TV. After adding all the new interconnects, I recalibrated w/ AVIA disc and the the color was lowered to 38. I also found that playing with the green weakness control that the hue could be calibrated. Hue was calibrated at 7 but it pushed the reds on faces and other scenes. Backed the green weakness control to 4 for a satisfying pq.

The Radio Shack sale puts the Monster Cable into a reasonable price range so that it is not overpriced IMHO. For anyone living in the Atlanta area, check out the one at Sandy Plains/Piedmont intersection. They are getting items from other stores that are closing and have a better selection than most. I pretty much helped clean out the one in Huntsville.

I know it's been discussed before, but I just hooked my Xbox 360 via VGA cable. I hadn't noticed the lag on the component inputs, but at least in Oblivion I notice a slightly faster response time (like my character jumps when I expect him to now, on component it seemed like there was a very slight pause. Not much of a difference, but it would certainly put one at a disadvantage on an online game.)

If you have a 360 I highly recommend the VGA cable. They can be found used for $13 online.

will we ever get a firmware update to fix the audio/video sync issues we are having? it seems like they could make one

I hadn't noticed the lag on the component inputs, but at least in Oblivion I notice a slightly faster response time (like my character jumps when I expect him to now, on component it seemed like there was a very slight pause. Not much of a difference, but it would certainly put one at a disadvantage on an online game.)

If you have a 360 I highly recommend the VGA cable. They can be found used for $13 online.
What screen size/type do you have the Xbox set to? Using the VGA, can you still have it set to widescreen 720p and use the entire screen?

jayfore,
thank you. I discovered the "internal mute" from the info. AK3883's posted earlier. I was originally talking about using the mute feature from the sammy's remote. That's when I got the mute icon. Since then, I have been able to incorporate a macro on my AV-3100 that mutes the internal speakers when playing DVDs.
Great! So you don't have the internal speakers muted all the time? What do you use them for?

What screen size/type do you have the Xbox set to? Using the VGA, can you still have it set to widescreen 720p and use the entire screen?

I have the 360 set to widescreen, and depending on the game (and how I feel I want to watch) I set the resolution to 720p or 1024x768. You get overscan at 720p losing some image, but you lose some detail going to 1024x768, so I play GRAW and COD2 at 1024x768 since I want to see as much movement as possible, but for Oblivion I may change to 720p. There is a small amount of underscan at 1024x68 too, so you get a slight border on all 4 sides, so there is not a perfect solution. I wish Samsung would've let us use the PC Mode functions at 720p :mad: .

I have the 360 set to widescreen, and depending on the game (and how I feel I want to watch) I set the resolution to 720p or 1024x768. You get overscan at 720p losing some image, but you lose some detail going to 1024x768, so I play GRAW and COD2 at 1024x768 since I want to see as much movement as possible, but for Oblivion I may change to 720p. There is a small amount of underscan at 1024x68 too, so you get a slight border on all 4 sides, so there is not a perfect solution. I wish Samsung would've let us use the PC Mode functions at 720p :mad: .
Yeah, I agree... It seems there is no true solution for this lag issue. I have the original Xbox, and there is definitely lag. Luckily, I don't play online, and am able to adapt to the lag for most of my games, or timing is not critical all the time in them. Shooters are what I play most of the time though, and faster response definitely helps there, no matter what. I had a 360 for a short time, right after I got the TV, to test and see what the lag was like there. The only game I had was PGR3, and I noticed no lag at all. That was not a very good game to test with though. Oh well, for the most part, the lag on Xbox is not a huge issue for me... At least right now.

I wonder how many of the issues that this TV has are corrected on the new model(s), if any.

HL-R? Hmmmm.... just guessing here but I suspect you'll be hard-pressed to get even half your investment back.

That all depends. HL-Rs were still being manufactured in 2006 so they aren't "old." Many places are still selling the HLRs that are left... current MSRP on 42" is $1299, I've seen the 4667 at $1399, and so on.

I think $1300 is fair. I just scored a 4667 for a grand but it was open-box. For 42" or 46", the HL-R actually has more features (PIP, cable card, dcr)

Uh, well, remember, the HL-R in question is actually used, not just open box. If MSRP is $1400, I wouldn't pay more than $800 for it. Why pay so much to inherit someone else's problems (and partially expired warranty) when I could pay that much for something new, with a full warranty period intact?

I have the 360 set to widescreen, and depending on the game (and how I feel I want to watch) I set the resolution to 720p or 1024x768. You get overscan at 720p losing some image, but you lose some detail going to 1024x768, so I play GRAW and COD2 at 1024x768 since I want to see as much movement as possible, but for Oblivion I may change to 720p. There is a small amount of underscan at 1024x68 too, so you get a slight border on all 4 sides, so there is not a perfect solution. I wish Samsung would've let us use the PC Mode functions at 720p :mad: .

I need to correct myself, I finally got the vga mode to accept 720p with the widepc setting. I believe this is the best way to play games (and watch dvd's) with minimal overscan. The pq at 720p is obviously better than at 1024x768.

The reason I originally decided to go for the vga was due to this review (http://mxgamers.com/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=558) from MR RUTHERF0RD. He did the review for mxgamers, an xbox live community, and he has a Samsung HLP series dlp. In discussing this with him it turns out that Samsung removed the ability to expand the image which would've filled the screen, as it is there are small black bars all around the image on widepc mode, but this is an acceptable trade-off to get a more complete image.

Hey guys, I haven't posted in a while but now I'm running into a problem and I'd like some help.

Anywho, about two weeks ago I noticed that my set would shut itself off and start blinking the three lights on the power button (the two small green ones on top and the one large red one on the bottom) at about one-second intervals.

Has anyone else had this happen? I read through much of this thread and saw a few people with the problem but no solutions as to what causes it. Can someone help?

The service ppl are coming out on Tuesday but I'd like to know beforehand what is wrong.

Thanks.

got 5067 here. to poster above, never had that happen :(


i have just looked over this thread dating back a few months because i have been baffled as to the picture quality of this set depending on the source.

some things can look very good like:

latest star wars dvd upsampled as well as monsters inc and films like it. awesomely clear!

certain hd channel broadcasts, again no complaints.


BUT then there is the bad that has me bummed out.


we got the toshiba hdvd player and some dvds can be helped upconverted like jurassic park, which makes the films even better than standard dvd. some cant and this is to be expected from the format.

BUT what we have been very sad to find is numerous titles on hdvd like last samurai, literally show NO image improvements on this set over their dvd's upsampled to 1080i!

rough edges so the picture isn't sharper, macroblocking, no more pop, etc.


if i had not seen such high quality from noted sources i would say the tv sucks. i would say hdvd sucks if it weren't for serenity, which is cleaner but has film grain, or our favorite yet, riddick, which you can just sit back and enjoy. but most hdvds are a joke.


we have never had the unit calibrated, but the overall lack of picture quality compared to those lusting over hdvd quality on this very forum, has us thinking we need a new tv :(


don't see any owners in this thread chiming in on this, was just curious if perhpaps the way the hdvd talks to this tv, that it just wasn't meant to be, and that maybe we are NOT actually seeing the potential of current hdvds?


that would be a big bummer but its hard for our eyes to come to any other conclusion since we are always running the toshiba at 1080i via hdmi cable.

HD-DUMMY, never had that happen before, but maybe the lamp just gave out? Hopefully that's what happened and nothing serious.

damac, why fo you have the Toshiba outputting 1080i and not 720p? Does it make a difference? Since the tv is 720p native, either the set or the Toshiba has to convert it to 720p.

I don't have an HD DVD player yet (and probably won't until the 360 add-on), but keep us posted what you find out.

Hey guys, I haven't posted in a while but now I'm running into a problem and I'd like some help.

Anywho, about two weeks ago I noticed that my set would shut itself off and start blinking the three lights on the power button (the two small green ones on top and the one large red one on the bottom) at about one-second intervals.

Has anyone else had this happen? I read through much of this thread and saw a few people with the problem but no solutions as to what causes it. Can someone help?

The service ppl are coming out on Tuesday but I'd like to know beforehand what is wrong.

Thanks.

There is a chart in the manual which indicates this indicates a problem with the bulb. Steel yourself if you are out of warranty, previous posts in this thread have said a new bulb costs $500.00 or so.

damac, why fo you have the Toshiba outputting 1080i and not 720p? Does it make a difference? Since the tv is 720p native, either the set or the Toshiba has to convert it to 720p.




He has it set to output 1080i because there is some issue with the player when it is outputtin at 720p. The player is better quality set to 1080i.

There is a chart in the manual which indicates this indicates a problem with the bulb. Steel yourself if you are out of warranty, previous posts in this thread have said a new bulb costs $500.00 or so.


Bulbs do not cost that much, they are around $200. Go to samsungparts.com to buy replacement bulbs.

got 5067 here. to poster above, never had that happen :(


i have just looked over this thread dating back a few months because i have been baffled as to the picture quality of this set depending on the source.

some things can look very good like:

latest star wars dvd upsampled as well as monsters inc and films like it. awesomely clear!

certain hd channel broadcasts, again no complaints.


BUT then there is the bad that has me bummed out.


we got the toshiba hdvd player and some dvds can be helped upconverted like jurassic park, which makes the films even better than standard dvd. some cant and this is to be expected from the format.

BUT what we have been very sad to find is numerous titles on hdvd like last samurai, literally show NO image improvements on this set over their dvd's upsampled to 1080i!

rough edges so the picture isn't sharper, macroblocking, no more pop, etc.


if i had not seen such high quality from noted sources i would say the tv sucks. i would say hdvd sucks if it weren't for serenity, which is cleaner but has film grain, or our favorite yet, riddick, which you can just sit back and enjoy. but most hdvds are a joke.


we have never had the unit calibrated, but the overall lack of picture quality compared to those lusting over hdvd quality on this very forum, has us thinking we need a new tv :(


don't see any owners in this thread chiming in on this, was just curious if perhpaps the way the hdvd talks to this tv, that it just wasn't meant to be, and that maybe we are NOT actually seeing the potential of current hdvds?


that would be a big bummer but its hard for our eyes to come to any other conclusion since we are always running the toshiba at 1080i via hdmi cable.

Welcome to the world of DVD/Video production. Like an episode of the outer limits... "Do not adjust your set..." this is simply the quality of the original, the conversion (if any) to digital format (DVD or transmission via cable/satellite) - which includes the encoding/decoding of the signal with filtering several times and such... if any 1 of those steps is done poorly or especially with DVD's where they cram a ton of extras onto 1 disc, you pay for it with quality as they compress it even further to fit everything on the disc.

Also - upconverting to 1080i is getting downconverted back to 720p, causing another 'processing step' further degrading the quality - but not really enough to be noticed to the casual viewer. Set the upconverting player to 720p to match the television and save a step.

Also - when buying DVD's look at the SUPERBIT series for the highest quality standard DVD's out there. They don't include all the extras, but do carry a DTS 5.1 audio track usually (my personal favorite over Dolby 5.1) and you get a much higher bitrate transfer. Again, this is highly dependent on the original transfer, but at least you're getting a better DVD production if nothing else.

I know it's frustrating - I also was deeply dissapointed in several of my DVD purchases thinking they should all be incredibly sharp - like the Spiderman 2 dvd which clearly writes (MASTERED IN High-Definition) leaving me to believe it should look as good as any of my DVD's but alas, did not and looked somewhat grainy (compared the the alien 25th anniversary edition DVD which for being made in the 80's looked super crisp by comparison).

All I can say is you're not alone - we all have varying levels of quality in our images when viewing different channels/dvds. Although a calibration is highly suggested if you can afford it - this is not the cause.

Hey guys, I haven't posted in a while but now I'm running into a problem and I'd like some help.

Anywho, about two weeks ago I noticed that my set would shut itself off and start blinking the three lights on the power button (the two small green ones on top and the one large red one on the bottom) at about one-second intervals.

Has anyone else had this happen? I read through much of this thread and saw a few people with the problem but no solutions as to what causes it. Can someone help?

The service ppl are coming out on Tuesday but I'd like to know beforehand what is wrong.

Thanks.

Exact same thing happened to me back in Feb/March. Chart in the book said "Check the lamp cover" which of course I have never touched. I tried taking it off and rescrewing it on, i was positive the little button sensor that is pressed in when the cover is on was properly attached to the cover when screwed on. First 2 times it only happened when I dropped something fairly heavy on the floor, or once when I jumped up and down(from a game on tv). 3rd time i was just sitting on the couch, then I knew it was time to call for service.

This really sucks too cause the 1st time it happened I turned it on, and it would turn off again after like 3 minutes doing the same thing. I assumed I needed to let it cool off, so I did for over an hour, and it would be fine. After the 2nd and 3rd time of course I wouldn't turn it back on, since that's bad for the bulb. Figures the 3rd time was in the middle of a bball game, so I had to drag the 15yr old 25'' CRT from the bedroom and feed it a 480i letterboxed signal of the HD feed, YUCK!

Guy showed up, I told him what happened and he immediatly went to work changing the entire digital light engine/board. He had done this many times, he was done in less than 20 minutes. Turned it back on, went to some secret menu I haven't seen(it was NOT the service menu) made a few adjustments while an HD channel was on, and left. The board includes the lamp assembly, so I got a brand new lamp after using the set for 9 months :) I asked him if he replaces light engines/entire digi boards a lot, he said "not really".

Set has been fine ever since. As long as you are in warrenty it shouldn't be too big a deal. Suggest a replacement digital board if the tech doesn't know what to do, he should have one with him in his car. I'm sure he'll go right for replacing the board though.

Exact same thing happened to me back in Feb/March. Chart in the book said "Check the lamp cover" which of course I have never touched. I tried taking it off and rescrewing it on, i was positive the little button sensor that is pressed in when the cover is on was properly attached to the cover when screwed on. First 2 times it only happened when I dropped something fairly heavy on the floor, or once when I jumped up and down(from a game on tv). 3rd time i was just sitting on the couch, then I knew it was time to call for service.

This really sucks too cause the 1st time it happened I turned it on, and it would turn off again after like 3 minutes doing the same thing. I assumed I needed to let it cool off, so I did for over an hour, and it would be fine. After the 2nd and 3rd time of course I wouldn't turn it back on, since that's bad for the bulb. Figures the 3rd time was in the middle of a bball game, so I had to drag the 15yr old 25'' CRT from the bedroom and feed it a 480i letterboxed signal of the HD feed, YUCK!

Guy showed up, I told him what happened and he immediatly went to work changing the entire digital light engine/board. He had done this many times, he was done in less than 20 minutes. Turned it back on, went to some secret menu I haven't seen(it was NOT the service menu) made a few adjustments while an HD channel was on, and left. The board includes the lamp assembly, so I got a brand new lamp after using the set for 9 months :) I asked him if he replaces light engines/entire digi boards a lot, he said "not really".

Set has been fine ever since. As long as you are in warrenty it shouldn't be too big a deal. Suggest a replacement digital board if the tech doesn't know what to do, he should have one with him in his car. I'm sure he'll go right for replacing the board though.
Huh! I'll ask the guy when he comes tomorrow. I guess I never thought of looking in the manual since I figured it was something that didn't happen often and, thus, would not be printed there.

I've had the set since mid-April so it's not really that old. It has been doing this more frequently now, tho. At first it happened like once a week. Now it happens every day, at least once.

Welcome to the world of DVD/Video production. ...
All I can say is you're not alone - we all have varying levels of quality in our images when viewing different channels/dvds. Although a calibration is highly suggested if you can afford it - this is not the cause.

Yup. I checked out a BD demo this week and all the usual artifacts are still around in most movies. It's going to be similar to DVD's converted from VHS...its better but you can't exceed the quality of the original content. There is a race to get titles out now so don't count on quality mastering.

Yup. I checked out a BD demo this week and all the usual artifacts are still around in most movies. It's going to be similar to DVD's converted from VHS...its better but you can't exceed the quality of the original content. There is a race to get titles out now so don't count on quality mastering.

Yep, there's a huge backlog of studio time to issue all the old movies on DVD, so I would suspect/hope that all the new releases are being simultaneously produced for both cinema and DVD all at once to avoid this extra step later.

On a side note - good news for HD content. I am researching the communications satellites for work, and see the number of transponders and capacity for bandwidth is waaaaay way up - with several more satellites scheduled for launch yet this year. There is under a 70% utilization for 2005, with more capacity being sent up every few months, so this means there will soon be enough 'room' up in space to broadcast more and more (if not all) channels in HD soon. Then it's just a matter of your local provider (cable) making room on their fiber to carry it to you.

I'm researching this for a new mpeg encoding architecture that is completely backwards compatible with all current decoders (MPEG-2) and will work with MPEG-4 also and offer decreased bandwidth without sacrificing quality or bitrate... could be huge for the HDTV market (hopefully).

So if any of you techheads out there work with an application for this type of software encoding technology - PM me and let's talk - I work in tech transfer for a research institute and need to identify all near-term markets for this technology. We're already approaching broadcasters, satellite teleporters, and soon it looks like the major media companies like Time Warner, Comcast, etc... Thanks!

Well, the guy came out today and replaced my digi board AND lamp assembly. Basically, I have a brand new TV inside. Now I just have to tweak the settings again.

Well, the guy came out today and replaced my digi board AND lamp assembly. Basically, I have a brand new TV inside. Now I just have to tweak the settings again.

Glad to hear. Yea.. I hope you didn't get it calibrated, that would really piss me off if I lost mine after paying a lot for it...

Looks like the new HDMI version 1.3 will address lip sync issues. Too bad our sets don't have this but it may help with the right setup (see below). It will double bandwidth and be a requirement to get the new Dolby and DTS HD audio found on the HD DVD and BD formats. Most users will have a surround sound system in their HT. Does anybody know how the connections are going to work for systems with the HLR models and surround sound? To get the loseless audio it looks like a receiver with hdmi 1.3 is required. So you would run the players 1.3 hdmi to the receiver 1.3 hdmi and then one from the receiver to the sammy 1.1 hdmi. Any other options out there?
I just got the TV and built a set of custom speakers to replace my old ones. The DVD player is the next week link in my system that I would like to replace with something HD. After that my receiver would be obsolete but I would like to start getting info about compatible combinations ahead of time so I don't start down a dead end.

HDMI 1.3... cool info on their site.

Too bad our sammy doesn't support it, but oh well.

HEY - regarding Superbit DVD's... i just went to Best buy to get a new headset and took a stroll through the DVD section and bought the superbit DVD's of Gattaca and 7 Years in Tibet... both were on sale for 9.99... i suspect all the superbit DVDs were that price since 7 Years was marked at 23.99, but rang up at 9.99 the same as gattaca....

worth a trip to your local store if so... these are a steal at that price!

cheers,

HEY - regarding Superbit DVD's... i just went to Best buy to get a new headset and took a stroll through the DVD section and bought the superbit DVD's of Gattaca and 7 Years in Tibet... both were on sale for 9.99... i suspect all the superbit DVDs were that price since 7 Years was marked at 23.99, but rang up at 9.99 the same as gattaca....

worth a trip to your local store if so... these are a steal at that price!

cheers,

I bought Labrynth SB last yr at Best Buy for $9.99. I also have the 5th Element and Dark Crystal. Gattaca is on my wish list so I just might have to swing by. I checked on-line but could not get any SB DVDs to show up at either BB or CC.

After reading the SB post, I realized that I had not watched one of mine on the HT system. Watched about 30 min of Labrynth and was very pleased w/ PQ. For some reason the sparkles on the walls and fallen logs caught my eye.

I did some on-line research on SB. From their site, they state that typical DVDs have a bit rate of 3 to 5.5 Mbps whereas the SB DVD will have a rate of 6 to 7 Mbps depending on movie lengths. Shorter movies have smaller files and thus the SB process should be able to create higher bit stream. Another site, seems it was either UK or Aussie, reviewed several movies and compared the SB/standard versions. The Patriot, a long movie, only had a 24% increase in the bit stream according to their calcs but the reviewer still noted visible improvements to the PQ.

I also went to the THX site to get info on their DVD's. If I read the certs correctly, THX-certification requires a bit stream rate of 5 or 5.5 Mbps. So bottom line is, the best PQ will come from SB or THX-certified DVDs. I would also think that multi-disks where bonus features are on a separate DVD would have good PQ as the feature DVD would have less compression.

If there are holes in my conclusions please correct my assumptions but that is my current understanding. BTW referring back to a similar post about needing good source for good PQ...try watching a VHS tape of a broadcast on your HDTV. I watched a piece of The Patriot that was recorded from analog HBO. Talk about stinky PQ! There was no PQ...it was PU :p

After reading the SB post, I realized that I had not watched one of mine on the HT system. Watched about 30 min of Labrynth and was very pleased w/ PQ. For some reason the sparkles on the walls and fallen logs caught my eye.

If there are holes in my conclusions please correct my assumptions but that is my current understanding. BTW referring back to a similar post about needing good source for good PQ...try watching a VHS tape of a broadcast on your HDTV. I watched a piece of The Patriot that was recorded from analog HBO. Talk about stinky PQ! There was no PQ...it was PU :p

You're absolutely correct. I bought the "extreme" edition of T2 which is THX certified and mastered in 1080p at a higher bitrate also, and noticed it looks very good. Only $7.99...

Other 'random info':

I also just heard a rumor that Blu-Ray was pushed back to 2007. If so, doesn't this push back the PS3 release also?

Here's some bandwidth info:

• Movies (VHS quality) 1.152 Mb/s
• News/Entertainment 3.456 Mb/s
• Live Sports Event 4.608 Mb/s
• 16:9 Wide Screen TV 5.760 Mb/s
• Studio Quality Broadcast TV 8.064 Mb/s
• High Definition Television 14.00 Mb/s
• Audio or Data Services Data Rate
• Monaural sound 0.128 Mb/s
• Stereo sound (L + R) 0.512 Mb/s
• Digital Data 9.6 kb/s

Press Releases

With the launch of HDMI version 1.3, HDMI continues to increase its overall functionality to meet the needs of the High-Definition marketplace.
HDMI 1.3 will include the following new features:

Higher speed: HDMI 1.3 increases its single-link bandwidth from 165MHz (4.95 gigabits per second) to 340 MHz (10.2 Gbps) to support the demands of future high definition display devices, such as higher resolutions, Deep Color and high frame rates. In addition, built into the HDMI 1.3 specification is the technical foundation that will let future versions of HDMI reach significantly higher speeds.

Deep Color: HDMI 1.3 supports 30-bit, 36-bit and 48-bit (RGB or YCbCr) color depths, up from the 24-bit depths in previous versions of the HDMI specification.

* Lets HDTVs and other displays go from million of colors to billions of colors.
* Eliminates on-screen color banding, for smooth tonal transitions and subtle gradations between colors.
* Enables increased contrast ratio
* Can represent many times more shades of gray between black and white
* At 30-bit pixel depth, a four times improvement would be the minimum, and the typical improvement would be eight times or more.

Broader color space: HDMI 1.3 removes all limits on color selection

* Next-generation “xvYCC” color space supports 1.8 times as many colors as existing HDTV signals
* Lets HDTVs display colors more accurately
* Enables displays with natural, vivid colors

New mini connector: With small portable devices such as HD camcorders and still cameras demanding seamless connectivity to HDTVs, HDMI 1.3 offers a new, smaller form factor connector option.

Lip Sync: Because consumer electronics devices are using increasingly complex digital signal processing to enhance the clarity and detail of the content, synchronization of video and audio in user devices has become a greater challenge and could potentially require complex end-user adjustments. HDMI 1.3 incorporates an automatic video/audio synching capability that allows devices to perform this synchronization automatically with total accuracy.

New lossless audio formats: In addition to HDMI’s current ability to support high-bandwidth uncompressed digital audio and all currently-available compressed formats (such as Dolby Digital and DTS), HDMI 1.3 adds additional support for new, lossless compressed digital audio formats Dolby TrueHD and DTS-HD.

what do you mean blueray was pushed back to 2007? aren't the player and the disks already being sold?

This new HDMI 1.3, I know my 5667 won't be able to handle that, ok fine, it's still "only" 720P, hehe.

Are these "lossless" formats like DTS-HD availible only on HDMI? Or are they also availible over optical and/or digital coax audio outputs? I'm going to be investing in a reciever soon, should I wait and get one that can handle HDMI(V1.3)switching?

what do you mean blueray was pushed back to 2007? aren't the player and the disks already being sold?

no, those are HD-DVD the competing technology to Sony's Blu-Ray.

the best buy's in NY have been selling them for a few weeks now. i think pc mag jsut did a review of the samsung player

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7772822&type=product&id=1142289574588

maybe you mean the sony blueray player has been pushed back... which would make sense if they are coming out with the ps3 and trying to sell them as a blueray player... they wouldn't want to compete with themselves... especially if the ps3 is 4 hundred dollers less then the stand alone player is

the best buy's in NY have been selling them for a few weeks now. i think pc mag jsut did a review of the samsung player

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7772822&type=product&id=1142289574588

maybe you mean the sony blueray player has been pushed back... which would make sense if they are coming out with the ps3 and trying to sell them as a blueray player... they wouldn't want to compete with themselves... especially if the ps3 is 4 hundred dollers less then the stand alone player is

I don't know what you mean

PS3 IS blu-ray - they can't release PS3 until Blu-ray is ready, and it's not, and has been pushed back several times, now word is from october into january.

HD-DVD is already here - that's the samsung player you're talking about - 2 different formats that cannot play ea. other. Samsung's player has dual-support of both formats, even though Blu-Ray isn't even released yet, the player does support HD-DVD which is available now.

Xbox360 launched without HD-DVD so they could get it out first, and plan to sell an add-on for HD-DVD, whereas Sony is launching PS3 with their version built in. Now they have to wait until Blu-ray is ready before launching. They're behind the game on both console gaming and now on HD video. Good job Sony....

The Samsung is a Blu Ray player only and Blu Ray is already out. Scroll down to the Blu Ray Forum. Toshiba is the Hd dvd player. I've had mine for a few weeks and I'm happy with it. It also does an excellent job of upconverting dvds.

I don't know what you mean

PS3 IS blu-ray - they can't release PS3 until Blu-ray is ready, and it's not, and has been pushed back several times, now word is from october into january.

HD-DVD is already here - that's the samsung player you're talking about - 2 different formats that cannot play ea. other. Samsung's player has dual-support of both formats, even though Blu-Ray isn't even released yet, the player does support HD-DVD which is available now.

Xbox360 launched without HD-DVD so they could get it out first, and plan to sell an add-on for HD-DVD, whereas Sony is launching PS3 with their version built in. Now they have to wait until Blu-ray is ready before launching. They're behind the game on both console gaming and now on HD video. Good job Sony....

ok.. lets try this again. the samsung player i linked to is a blue ray player that is available right now for purchase. so blue ray is out. so what is delayed till 2007?

ok.. lets try this again. the samsung player i linked to is a blue ray player that is available right now for purchase. so blue ray is out. so what is delayed till 2007?

I was going based on info I heard/read much like this article:

ARTICLE (http://www.engadget.com/2006/06/21/samsungs-hd-dvd-blu-ray-combo-player-just-in-case/)

which said samsung is putting out a combo HD/Blu-ray player. I thought this was the one you were referencing... if it's just the blu-ray alone then fine - but Sony has yet to release their blu-ray player which is critical to the ps3. If samsung put out a player that meets the blu-ray spec, that's one thing, but when I said blu-ray pushed back... i was referring to Sony - and their products, hence the ps3 discussion.

Make sense?

ok. it sounded like you were saying that all blueray was being delayed and only HD DVD was out. my mistake

The Sony and Samsung players are available at most electronic stores with the toshiba HD DVD player. It seems there is a limited number that you can actually buy but they are in stores.

I just got my HL-R4667W and have it all hooked up now. I am dissapointed with the picture quality with SD material and some DVDs. The picture looks overly grainy and oversaturated. I am coming from a Sony 36" XBR set which I know is a very good 4:3 television and I cannot expect the same performance on SD source material but I am trying to gauge whether their is an issue with this set.

I am getting the TV signal from a Directv Tivo HDVR-2 recorder and have tried it both 4:3 and 16:9, as set on the TV (does anyone know if there is a way to change it on the DVR?). Obviously the 4:3 looks a little sharper. I tried a couple of DVDs too and Galidator in 2.35:1 looked pretty good but Saving Private Ryan and another disk, in 1.85:1, I tried looked very grainy. I tried both DVI (from DVD player) to HDMI (on TV) and Component and they looked roughly the same (the DVI - HDMI was darker but detail was similar).

Since this it the first HDTV I have owned I am asking you experts does this sound like what can be expected with going from a high quality CRT SD TV to a HDTV running SD material or could there be adjustments or connection issues? Thanks for any guidence.

I just got my HL-R4667W and have it all hooked up now. I am dissapointed with the picture quality with SD material and some DVDs. The picture looks overly grainy and oversaturated. I am coming from a Sony 36" XBR set which I know is a very good 4:3 television and I cannot expect the same performance on SD source material but I am trying to gauge whether their is an issue with this set.

I am getting the TV signal from a Directv Tivo HDVR-2 recorder and have tried it both 4:3 and 16:9, as set on the TV (does anyone know if there is a way to change it on the DVR?). Obviously the 4:3 looks a little sharper. I tried a couple of DVDs too and Galidator in 2.35:1 looked pretty good but Saving Private Ryan and another disk, in 1.85:1, I tried looked very grainy. I tried both DVI (from DVD player) to HDMI (on TV) and Component and they looked roughly the same (the DVI - HDMI was darker but detail was similar).

Since this it the first HDTV I have owned I am asking you experts does this sound like what can be expected with going from a high quality CRT SD TV to a HDTV running SD material or could there be adjustments or connection issues? Thanks for any guidence.

What any SD looks like on your HDTV is largely dependent on the quality of your source material. With DirecTV compressing the heck out of their standard def channels, you basically get a Garbage In > Garbage Out situation. You are "magnifying" a lousy picture to begin with. In the opposite direction, DirecTV standard def looks really good on a 13" TV.

That being said, you need to adjust your TV settings. Get a copy of Digital Video Essentials or Avia...and calibrate your TV with them. You will find that the SD picture looks a lot better after calibrating your set than either when it came out of the box, or after your own "random" adjustments. Will it make SD from DirecTV look great....NO! Will it look a LOT better, yes.

Now, on to DVD. Get a good upconverting DVD player like the Oppo 970 or 971 (google Oppo). The pix quality on normal DVDs is exceptional. (Non-HD). I use a 971 with my 5667W and the DVDs look terrific. Some people with DLPs prefer the new 970. Read the info on their site to make your choice. Oppo is a first rate company with phenomenal customer support. Read the Oppo forum here on AVS and you will get a feel for what to buy and why.

As far as pix quality goes with your HD...here is a top to bottom listing of the quality of your HDTV experience vs. SOURCE Quality: (I have grouped similar performance...the next group (after an empty line) is worse than the previous by an obvious margin))

OTA HD (Over the Air Local HDTV (not via sat)): Stunning, the best you'll see on HD


DirecTV ESPN-HD NFL: Fantastic (ESPN-HD in general is exceptionally good)
DirecTV HD: Discovery HD Theater: Very, Very Good, Stunning at times.
DirecTV NFL Sunday Ticket HD: Very, Very Good.

Oppo Upconverting DVD: Outstanding, not HD, but quite close
DirecTV TNT HD: Very good, but obviously not as good as Discovery
DirectTV Other HD Channels: Ditto

JVC non-Upconverting DVD: Very good, quite watchable, some macroblocking

OTA Local Digital TV (non-HD): Good, but source material often stinks.

OTA SD non-Digital: Can be good, mostly better than any SD DirecTV picture

DirecTV SD CNN/MSNBC/FOX: Can be good at times, can look very mediocre. Obvious macroblocking at times.

DirecTV SD Starz, etc: ditto

DirecTV SD Locals via Satellite: Poor to marginally acceptable if desperate. Obvious macroblocking, (frequent)

DirecTV Pax and other highly compressed channels: UNWATCHABLE RUBBISH
DirecTV NFL Sunday Ticket SD: UNWATCHABLE RUBBISH

I base these ratings on overall clarity/sharpness and vivid as well as true nature of the colors, as well as an absence of macro-blocking.

If you look at the amount of compression used in these various sources, you will find the key to good HD viewing. It explains most of the differences. I hope this helps you understand what you are looking at and the quality you can expect from various sources.

I do have an upconverting Samsung DVD player which is part of the reason I was suprised that I did not like the picture quality much.

I have Avia at home so I will try to dial in the display a little better and see where I end up.

Thanks alot for your through response.

Hey I am a new 5067 dlp owner and have a few questions. I am using the vga for my 360 and it looks great and I use hdmi input set to 720 p on my dish reciever. Any tips or suggestions? The 360 is set to 720 on the dashboard.

Hey I am a new 5067 dlp owner and have a few questions. I am using the vga for my 360 and it looks great and I use hdmi input set to 720 p on my dish reciever. Any tips or suggestions? The 360 is set to 720 on the dashboard.

i dont' see a question. are you having a problem with anything? if so then what? if not then i'm not sure what you are asking.

No i'm just wondering if that is the best setup and any tweaking tips.

Hey I am a new 5067 dlp owner and have a few questions. I am using the vga for my 360 and it looks great and I use hdmi input set to 720 p on my dish reciever. Any tips or suggestions? The 360 is set to 720 on the dashboard.

Get the MS VGA cable for the 360. You can find it cheap used on ebay (got mine for $13 shipped). This will eliminate the gaming lag plus if you use VGA and rename the input PC it gives you the option to resize the image, good for controlling overscan on the set.

Get the MS VGA cable for the 360. You can find it cheap used on ebay (got mine for $13 shipped). This will eliminate the gaming lag plus if you use VGA and rename the input PC it gives you the option to resize the image, good for controlling overscan on the set.

I experience no lag whatsoever using the component outputs from my 360 to my receiver and out to the tv. I play plenty of online games including some back-compat original xbox games. I play daily, and I repeat, no lag.

I use the vga port on the tv for my media center pc.

I have been 'saving' the hdmi port for a hd-dvd player to replace my existing dvd player. I plan on pulling the trigger on this probably in the next 8-12 months when more players are on the market.

I didn't notice any lag either, until I tried the VGA. My character in Oblivion jumped faster after pressing the jump button. But if you're using VGA for pc you don't have much choice.

diito about not noticing lag until VGA. it responded a hair faster. i never noticed it before, but when my kills went up immediately after, there was no denying it :)

If you don't think you are experiencing lag you may want to report your experience on the web site below. You may also want to duplicate the experiment reported there.

http://gear.ign.com/articles/720/720303p1.html

Just curious. I just got an xbox 360 and I have the 5667 model. How should I set up my audio if I'm going to be using the tv only? Digital or Analog? Also, does the vga cable look better on this set than with the component hookups or does it just play smoother? Thanks

There is only one way to run audio to the TV. Use the two RCA plugs on one of the analog inputs in the rear. Sounds like you are using component cables so the stereo RCA connections under that input would be the correct one. If you have a fiber optic cable running from the TV to a receiver, you can get the analog sound routed simultaneously to the receiver for prologic or whatever you want. Course if you have a receiver, I would just run the digital from your game console to the receiver for best results.

Here's hoping the HDMI port is good for gaming with the PS3. I have a 5667 and hopefully it won't be a big deal.

does the vga cable look better on this set than with the component hookups or does it just play smoother? Thanks

PQ is about the same, but with VGA you can resize the image on PC mode (renaming the input PC) so you can lessen the overscan.

Hello,
I am a proud owner of an HLR6167W, that was purchased in Jan. of this year. There was an explosion-like noise from the TV, and the pic was gone. There is still sound. Could this be the bulb?

If it is the bulb:

Is it typical to go out so quick? I have had it only 7 months!

Will this be covered in my Sears MPA or my Warantee?

This TV is a replacement from a Sony 57" that was purchased in 2003 that could not be fixed...I can't remember the model # It was deemed a lemon by Sears, and I had to pay the difference.

Thanks Guys!

Kristi

Hello,
I am a proud owner of an HLR6167W, that was purchased in Jan. of this year. There was an explosion-like noise from the TV, and the pic was gone. There is still sound. Could this be the bulb?

If it is the bulb:

Is it typical to go out so quick? I have had it only 7 months!

Will this be covered in my Sears MPA or my Warantee?

This TV is a replacement from a Sony 57" that was purchased in 2003 that could not be fixed...I can't remember the model # It was deemed a lemon by Sears, and I had to pay the difference.

Thanks Guys!

Kristi

Sounds like the bulb, maybe there was a problem with a fan or something if it blew up from overheating, but that's a pretty extreme case!

Being as it's well under a year, pretty much anything is covered under warrenty. Call up Samsung, they will get their authorized service dealer closest to you to get in touch with you to set up an apointment.

Posted this in the Tivo Community Forum and came up empty...no replies.
I have the D* HD DVR and I'm trying to determine if this is a source issue or problem with my set. Moving from the HDMI port to component usually fixes the problem. In my case it didn't and it looks almost as bad as the attached picture. I can't test OTA as my antenna was crushed when a 30 foot limb fell on my house during the storm and subsequent power outage here in St. Louis. :(

I searched for and read threads about the HDMI issue. The symptom I am having is similar to one I read describing a PC running in 256 colors. Or like a color negative. So first I swapped out the HDMI cable. No joy. Then I switched over to component. Same thing. Changing over to component eliminates the HDMI issue but it still looks like the HDMI issue (best way to describe it).

Any ideas? I have the Samsung HLR-5067W that I bought in January. I notice it more in HD and darker screens with close-ups of actor's faces. It has been professionally calibrated. . Started about two weeks ago and seems to be worsening.

Anyone else ever see this?

Thanks in advance!

Edit: Added second image that is also similar.

I didn't notice any lag either, until I tried the VGA. My character in Oblivion jumped faster after pressing the jump button. But if you're using VGA for pc you don't have much choice.
diito about not noticing lag until VGA. it responded a hair faster. i never noticed it before, but when my kills went up immediately after, there was no denying it :)
I've been annoyed by this lag for some time also -- though I've gotten used to it, I'd obviously prefer to not have it. I noticed it the same way, by pressing jump. I have never attempted to use the VGA port, because it seemed there were other negatives, when this was discussed a couple of months ago in this thread. When you guys are using the VGA port, your image is not filling the screen totally, is it? And is there maybe also some overscan? If I remember correctly, others using VGA for gaming have reported one or both of these to be the case.

This looks related to the "clay face" issue that crops up in this forum occasionally (esp. in earlier posts). I remedied the problem with some minor tweaks in the service menu. Try searching that phrase.

How to reconcile that with your professional calibration I don't know (except to point out that the issue getting progressively worse seems to argue for your settings somehow migrating from where they were professionally set).

This looks related to the "clay face" issue that crops up in this forum occasionally (esp. in earlier posts). I remedied the problem with some minor tweaks in the service menu. Try searching that phrase.

How to reconcile that with your professional calibration I don't know (except to point out that the issue getting progressively worse seems to argue for your settings somehow migrating from where they were professionally set).
If it was a settings issue, would it really get progressively worse? That would seem to indicate a bad bulb, or something that is on its way out.

If it was a settings issue, would it really get progressively worse? That would seem to indicate a bad bulb, or something that is on its way out.

Disclaimer: I'm as "lay" a layman as one can be.

How long after purchasing your Sammy did you have the calibration done? There IS a fairly steep dropoff in bulb brightness an the first...100 hrs? 200 hrs? A little help, please--

Anyway, I imagine you're probably right that it's unlikely that your settings are "wandering off"...unless, you got the gremlins. Is your home built over old Indian Burial Grounds or anything?

I've been annoyed by this lag for some time also -- though I've gotten used to it, I'd obviously prefer to not have it. I noticed it the same way, by pressing jump. I have never attempted to use the VGA port, because it seemed there were other negatives, when this was discussed a couple of months ago in this thread. When you guys are using the VGA port, your image is not filling the screen totally, is it? And is there maybe also some overscan? If I remember correctly, others using VGA for gaming have reported one or both of these to be the case.

There is overscan on the component inputs and VGA. With VGA you can set the tv on "PC Wide" mode which reduces the image to 92% screen size. There is still a little bit of overscan but it is very minor, and the image does not fill the screen. Under the hide panel on the remote is the picture size button, and there it is the option to resize the image. With that you can get the image to fill the screen, but you lose some of the picture around the edges. The best title to use this is Ghost Recon Advanced Warfighter and use the blue border as a guide to center the screen and use the screen size that best fits. But I definately suggest the VGA to anyone with a 360. They're $12.99 used at ebgames or you can get one from ebay for less than $15 used.

Disclaimer: I'm as "lay" a layman as one can be.

How long after purchasing your Sammy did you have the calibration done? There IS a fairly steep dropoff in bulb brightness an the first...100 hrs? 200 hrs? A little help, please--

Anyway, I imagine you're probably right that it's unlikely that your settings are "wandering off"...unless, you got the gremlins. Is your home built over old Indian Burial Grounds or anything?

I believe it had 197 hours and after the LE was replaced (I rejected the new lamp) it was re-calibrated, I said no to the lamp so I didn't have to wait another 100 hours to have it calibrated again. It only had 900 or 1200 hours on it. Can't remember which.

If you look at those pics I found, this is waaaay more than a settings issue. May be one of two boards. Samsung Exec. Offices are aware of this issue and already offered me a refurb which I declined. Corp. office asked me to try one more repair and than I am opting for another set.

Edit: Last night I bypassed my Tivo as possible source issue and ran my antenna in directly. Same problem.

Repair Tech is coming over tomorrow and they are replacing the LE again which has the DMD board attached.

i have the 4667 and get over the air HD. i love watching the local PBS HD channel, it's great. my only complaint is that i see a distorted picture if there is a lot of movement and most everytime they cut scenes with the camera. is this because i have a crappy antenna, signal, or the tv?
i don't think it's the TV because i always get great picture with the xbox 360. thanks!

i have the 4667 and get over the air HD. i love watching the local PBS HD channel, it's great. my only complaint is that i see a distorted picture if there is a lot of movement and most everytime they cut scenes with the camera. is this because i have a crappy antenna, signal, or the tv?
i don't think it's the TV because i always get great picture with the xbox 360. thanks!

hmm you get this OTA? odd, i get it on cable, but usually only on the SD channels during alot of movement/action and I thought it was due to high compression of the signal. I just watched War of the Worlds, and it had alot of this - especially during the water/rain scenes at the ferry crossing... the water drops all looked pixelated badly.

I wouldn't expect this from OTA, unless it is the compression from the source to the broadcast... hmm. I would GUESS that it's simply a low signal strength from the source. Maybe try moving the antennae to a higher location in the house? Can you throw it in the attic and drop a line to the tv without too much hassle?

Repair tech out yesterday and replaced the digital board and light engine. I was lucky enough to again get the Zeiss lens. Last night, I noticed a softball size circle on the right side of the screen and the left half of the screen was almost perfectly halved down the middle with a much lighter left side.

This was my third repair. I already contacted Samsung executive offices and prior to yesterdays repair they offered me a refurbished when I called. As I posted, I declined this. So they also asked that I have the set one more time. I did.

Anyone have any tips on dealing with Samsung? I'd sure appreciate the advice.

This was my third repair. I already contacted Samsung executive offices and prior to yesterdays repair they offered me a refurbished when I called. As I posted, I declined this. So they also asked that I have the set one more time. I did.
Anyone have any tips on dealing with Samsung? I'd sure appreciate the advice.

You may just want to ditch that lemon and go with a refurb. A lot of the tvs that get returned/refurbed actually were just customer returns or open boxes that had nothing wrong with them. Since they get the 2nd factory lookover, it's probably better than some of the new units coming off the production line in Mexico.

See if they will send you a refurb and start the warranty period over. My 2 cents anyway! :)

IMO you are better off with a refurb HLR than a new inferior HLS.

Here is why certain calibrators like the Samsung HLS series:
"Samsung's Movie mode also boasts an industry first. The color points for its primary and secondary colors are said to be different from those used for the other viewing modes, which are exaggerated and oversaturated. The latter is typical of most sets these days. Some people actually prefer the more vivid factory color to true color accuracy. With the HL-S series, you have a choice of which color space (accurate vs. exaggerated) to use. It's as simple as changing viewing modes.

Because of the oversaturated colors of earlier Samsung sets, a few ISF calibrators have, for several years now, been using a special technique hidden within the firmware of Samsung sets to correct the color points. Video guru Joe Kane first took advantage of this technique for setting correct colors when he worked on the design of the Samsung SP-H700AE DLP Projector. But this technique requires special equipment, is not a normal part of an ISF calibration, and it's something that can't even be done at all with any competing set we know of. "

We have no secrets now:)
http://www.guidetohometheater.com/r...nghl/index.html

You may just want to ditch that lemon and go with a refurb. A lot of the tvs that get returned/refurbed actually were just customer returns or open boxes that had nothing wrong with them. Since they get the 2nd factory lookover, it's probably better than some of the new units coming off the production line in Mexico.

See if they will send you a refurb and start the warranty period over. My 2 cents anyway! :)

IMO you are better off with a refurb HLR than a new inferior HLS.

How is the HLS inferior?

Samsung agreed to replace it through CC. I will gain another HDMI port (which I don't need for now). Faster, smaller color wheel (10,800 rpm to 14,400 rpm) the ability to turn DNIE off in the remote rather than service menu, and Cinema Smooth Gen-5 HD vs. new Single digital micro mirror device. What I can't find is the the contrast ration for my current, old one. The new one lists 2500:1.

What I "lose" is a cable card. Don't use it, I have D*. TV Guide, don't use it either. Also don't use Anynet. So since I am not using any of those features, it's moot for me.

With the exception of the above post, I've only read calibrators saying the HLR was a superior tv (for reasons too technical for me to recall).

Other HLS cons are faster color wheel (higher rpm= greater chance of failure), and the loss of features you currently don't use (digital cable tuner, tv guide, anynet (also referred to as NetCommand)), and probably something I'm forgetting.

The HLS is a strippo whether you wanted the features or not. If they'd pull out those visible things, I'd guess that they cut corners inside the tv too. It boggles my mind to think that Samsung would de-ball the tv to the extent that you cannot recieve HD on cable out of the box.

I had an HLS and was so irritated that I returned it.

How is the HLS inferior?

Samsung agreed to replace it through CC. I will gain another HDMI port (which I don't need for now). Faster, smaller color wheel (10,800 rpm to 14,400 rpm) the ability to turn DNIE off in the remote rather than service menu, and Cinema Smooth Gen-5 HD vs. new Single digital micro mirror device. What I can't find is the the contrast ration for my current, old one. The new one lists 2500:1.

What I "lose" is a cable card. Don't use it, I have D*. TV Guide, don't use it either. Also don't use Anynet. So since I am not using any of those features, it's moot for me.

hmm you get this OTA? odd, i get it on cable, but usually only on the SD channels during alot of movement/action and I thought it was due to high compression of the signal. I just watched War of the Worlds, and it had alot of this - especially during the water/rain scenes at the ferry crossing... the water drops all looked pixelated badly.

I wouldn't expect this from OTA, unless it is the compression from the source to the broadcast... hmm. I would GUESS that it's simply a low signal strength from the source. Maybe try moving the antennae to a higher location in the house? Can you throw it in the attic and drop a line to the tv without too much hassle?

yeah it's a bit irritating, whenever something is moving quickly, even just video of a stream, it does it on over the air HD broadcasts. i live in an apartment, so i am a little limited in my options. the tv shows the signal strength as almost full, maybe two bars off. i will play around regardless. thanks for the help!

With the exception of the above post, I've only read calibrators saying the HLR was a superior tv (for reasons too technical for me to recall).

Other HLS cons are faster color wheel (higher rpm= greater chance of failure), and the loss of features you currently don't use (digital cable tuner, tv guide, anynet (also referred to as NetCommand)), and probably something I'm forgetting.

The HLS is a strippo whether you wanted the features or not. If they'd pull out those visible things, I'd guess that they cut corners inside the tv too. It boggles my mind to think that Samsung would de-ball the tv to the extent that you cannot recieve HD on cable out of the box.

I had an HLS and was so irritated that I returned it.

Well, your crude choice of words and sig pretty much means explains your attitude.

Well, your crude choice of words and sig pretty much means explains your attitude.

You mean de-ball? :rolleyes:

Would you rather I say neutered, castrated, or spayed? :eek:
Oh, and they do make home toilets with a pressurized flush just-in-case you're looking for one.

might be too sensitive for the internet

I have had my Samsung HLR-6167w now for approximately 10 months. No issues until just recently. I noticed on the left hand side, a dark band going from left most point to just beyond where the 4:3 left box would end. Extremely noticeable in dark scenes and in some colored. I played with AVIA to adjust settings, but nothing really gets rid of it.

Anyone else see this?

Also, in regards to repair... I did not buy at sears, but did by a sears 5 year extended. Should I call Samsung since it is within the 1 year and let them handle, or go through Sears? Thoughts?

Thanks,

Ted

I have had my Samsung HLR-6167w now for approximately 10 months. No issues until just recently. I noticed on the left hand side, a dark band going from left most point to just beyond where the 4:3 left box would end. Extremely noticeable in dark scenes and in some colored. I played with AVIA to adjust settings, but nothing really gets rid of it.

Anyone else see this?

Also, in regards to repair... I did not buy at sears, but did by a sears 5 year extended. Should I call Samsung since it is within the 1 year and let them handle, or go through Sears? Thoughts?

Thanks,

Ted

May be the Light Engine. I had similar issue and it was replaced.

I don't know who to suggest for service as I didn't get mine at Sears but I have since learned that techs sent out in your area are the same for EW or Samsung manufacturer warranty.

I know it's been discussed before, but a quick search for "lag" in this thread did not turn up -concrete- answers.

I play video games all the time. I play a lot of current-gen games, but I also play a lot of NES and SNES games. I own a Samsung HL-R5667W (It's in the same class as the HL-R4667W, HL-R5067W, and HL-R6167W) and games are simply unplayable. Even at 480p.

I do not own an Xbox 360, nor do I know anyone that does, so I cannot say whether or not there is a lag problem with 720p signals.

As I said previously, I play games a lot. I play Super Smash Bros. Melee at a tournament level, so I will notice even a minute delay. So, my question is, does the Samsung HL-R5667W DLP TV have lag issues at 720p? Would a VGA box, such as the X-RGB3 (or another VGA box that upscales to 720p) get rid of the lag if plugged into ANY of the inputs (There are two component, one VGA, and one HDMI)? From what I've read, some people experience lag even on 720p through the VGA input.

Would it be worth it for me to buy a good VGA box (one that won't downgrade my signal) and upscale my games to 720p, or would it be better to just buy a 30", or so, regular 480i TV that I could play my games on? I'm just looking for a solution that would give me as much lag as a standard TV, or a computer monitor.

Thanks,
- Brian

EDIT: check out this thread
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=558125&highlight=what+does+game+mode

I've never heard any lag associated with using the VGA xbox adapter. I thought the ONLY downside to that is that you need to use PC mode to resize the image.

The easier trick apparently is to rename the input to "game" and supposedly that does something... people complain there is some image degradation in that mode.

There are some threads that examine just what "game mode" on the HLS actually does and duplicate that on the HLR. That might require access to the service menu as does turning of dnle, etc. Still easier than buying a whole new tv.

On another note, you might get the absolute lag-free setup and you will still notice lag playing online with the latency inherent with the internet.

Thanks. The GAME inputname significantly reduced the lag -- enough so that Dragon Quest VIII is playable; however, the lag is still significant enough that it's pretty painful. I'll look into the Xploder HDTV Player when it comes out on September 1. Hopefully one of the retails around here will get one in stock. If it passes my Mega Man X Collection test, then I'll return it and put down the big(ger) money for a good VGA box. Otherwise, I'll look into a cheap TV under $150, or perhaps just game on my 17" CRT.

I know it's been discussed before, but a quick search for "lag" in this thread did not turn up -concrete- answers.

I play video games all the time. I play a lot of current-gen games, but I also play a lot of NES and SNES games. I own a Samsung HL-R5667W (It's in the same class as the HL-R4667W, HL-R5067W, and HL-R6167W) and games are simply unplayable. Even at 480p.

I do not own an Xbox 360, nor do I know anyone that does, so I cannot say whether or not there is a lag problem with 720p signals.

As I said previously, I play games a lot. I play Super Smash Bros. Melee at a tournament level, so I will notice even a minute delay. So, my question is, does the Samsung HL-R5667W DLP TV have lag issues at 720p? Would a VGA box, such as the X-RGB3 (or another VGA box that upscales to 720p) get rid of the lag if plugged into ANY of the inputs (There are two component, one VGA, and one HDMI)? From what I've read, some people experience lag even on 720p through the VGA input.

Would it be worth it for me to buy a good VGA box (one that won't downgrade my signal) and upscale my games to 720p, or would it be better to just buy a 30", or so, regular 480i TV that I could play my games on? I'm just looking for a solution that would give me as much lag as a standard TV, or a computer monitor.

Thanks,
- Brian

Just turn off DNle (search the thread on how to do this) and turn off signal boost or whatever its called, and turn on game mode for the input.

Now that the HLRs are even older. What do you guys think of them?

DO you think we still have a very respectable TV, or do the HLS put them to shame?

Just curious, for I've been feeling as though my HLR is getting old (even though it's only six months).

Next year some HLS owners will be feeling the same when the HLT series are out. I still like mine a lot, but I wish it had the "game mode". Actually I see rainbows so I wish mine had an LED assembly.

Anyone using an over the air indoor hd antenna with the HLR and having success with it? I got to come up with something soon as football season is about to start. But I have satellite and it doesn't offer locals in HD. I want be able to use an outdoor antenna. So, I need something indoors that really works. Thanks

My warranty is almost up (50HLR67) - anyone get the Samsung extended warranty? It is around $110 for 1 yr and $500 for 3 yrs BUT it does include one bulb replacement.

Anyone get this or recommend a better warranty?

thanks!

Now that the HLRs are even older. What do you guys think of them?

DO you think we still have a very respectable TV, or do the HLS put them to shame?

Just curious, for I've been feeling as though my HLR is getting old (even though it's only six months).

My HL-R5067W is now 9 months old. I followed the HLS thread for a while, but stopped following as I knew I wasn't going to be purchasing one. So what was the point in following it other than keeping up to date with the latest and greatest. Except for the size (I wish I had gone bigger), I'm still very happy with my set. I haven't really compared it to the HLS models other than on paper. So, I have no reason to be dissatisfied! :D I've even heard some people comment that they like the HLR's better.

Now that the HLRs are even older. What do you guys think of them?
Just curious, for I've been feeling as though my HLR is getting old (even though it's only six months).

That all depends on which HLR. The 42-46" HLR are "better" IMO when hooked cable tv without a cable box due to the built in tv guide and digital tuner which will allow the tuning of digital sub-channels and HD content.

If you're using the set-top box to decode your HD, digital, or satellite content, the HLS might be the better choice.

Since my HL-R4667w got marked down to less than 700 bucks (open box with full warranty), I'd be insane to think of getting an HLS.

Anyone using an over the air indoor hd antenna with the HLR and having success with it? I got to come up with something soon as football season is about to start. But I have satellite and it doesn't offer locals in HD. I want be able to use an outdoor antenna. So, I need something indoors that really works. Thanks


Any old pair of rabbit ears will work fine. I am using the same old 'v-style' rabbit ears from 15 years ago in college and getting perfect HD pictures OTA. Once you connect them, just auto-program and the tv will pick up all the HD channels as well as the SD ones. Tune to the SD version of the channels, go into the menu and remove them and you'll be ready to watch all the games locally, provided you're not watching a dumpy team that can't sell out and hence the local broadcast is blacked out.

In short, do not spend big $$ for one of these 'HD-OTA, specialty antennaes' because the regular ones do just as good a job if you're in the city and get a strong signal. I can't speak for long-distances like deep-country in the plains states...

Thanks. I'm gonna give it a try.

Anyone using an over the air indoor hd antenna with the HLR and having success with it? I got to come up with something soon as football season is about to start. But I have satellite and it doesn't offer locals in HD. I want be able to use an outdoor antenna. So, I need something indoors that really works. Thanks
you can get a zenith indoor HD antenna for less than $20 from amazon. I have a radioshack cheapo in my basement that works just fine.

Thanks. I'm gonna give it a try.

Tacos, use antennaweb.org to get an idea of what type of antenna that you may need. Results will vary. Friend in Madison is getting one or two Birmingham stations in HD w/ an omnidirectional attic antenna but the web site indicates that he is too far away to get it. Start w/ cheapos and work your way up until you are satisfied w/ your results.

brett

Hello all
I'm a Sammy HLN owner, but my mother-in-law wants to upgrade to HDTV. She found an HLR 6156 WX at Sam's for $1,685. She is going to use D* as her provider (lives in a rural area). It will probably just be an HDMI connection to the new MPEG4 DVR when it comes out this fall.

Is this a good deal or should I send her to Best Buy or somewhere else for an HLS? By the way, my HLN keeps on trucking.

Thank you for your assistance.

My HL-R5067W is now 9 months old. I followed the HLS thread for a while, but stopped following as I knew I wasn't going to be purchasing one. So what was the point in following it other than keeping up to date with the latest and greatest. Except for the size (I wish I had gone bigger), I'm still very happy with my set. I haven't really compared it to the HLS models other than on paper. So, I have no reason to be dissatisfied! :D I've even heard some people comment that they like the HLR's better.


MANNAXMAN, I am getting my HL-R5067 swapped out for a HL-S5086 (still 720p) tomorrow. After I get 100 hours on the lamp I will get it ISF calibrated again. I've had the HLR since the end of January so it's about the same age as yours. I can send you a PM in a couple of weeks with the results if you are interested. FWIW, my HLR responded quite well to the calibration and looked stunning. I am looking forward to seeing how the HLS shapes up but I will at least be able to see how it looks out of the box with brightness, contrast, etc changed sometime tomorrow after it's delivered.

You didn't mention what provider you have. I have D* with their HD DVR so I will be basing my out-of-box impression from that and OTA.

Mo,
I have Comcast (Comcrap? But that's a different thread). I don't really record anything, so I just have an HD box (no DVR) hooked up via DVI to HDMI. I used DVE to setup the DVD connection (Component) and used those settings as a starting point to adjust the other inputs. Any particular reason you're swapping out for the HLS while your HLR is still relatively new?

Mo,
I have Comcast (Comcrap? But that's a different thread). I don't really record anything, so I just have an HD box (no DVR) hooked up via DVI to HDMI. I used DVE to setup the DVD connection (Component) and used those settings as a starting point to adjust the other inputs. Any particular reason you're swapping out for the HLS while your HLR is still relatively new?

I had several problems with my HLR. Swapped out the LE twice and the DMD board once. Samsung was quite responsive and after the third repair issued me a Return Authorization for a comparable set. Since I did not use the cable card, TV Guide, or use PIP when using my DVR as receiver I am glad to be getter the newer technology.

CC has been dragging their feet and finally delivered the HLS on Sunday and it arrived DOA. Just blinking lights and no picture or sound. :( They callled me yesterday and think they located a set and I am going to call them now and follow-up yet again with them.

Edit: Just called and set is on the truck for delivery.

Another Edit: They brought another HLR. Will get the HLS probably tomorrow. This CC is really screwed up and this is getting very frustrating as it was all supposed to be done last week. Tired of moving speakers, disconnecting, re-connecting, packaging up the remote, manual, etc. :mad:

I'm having problems with my HLR6167. It is now out of warranty so I am dealing with CC extended warranty plan.

Recently a light cloudy area started to appear on the screen. The area was somewhat circular and maybe 6 or so inches in diameter. The light area was more noticeable with brighter ambient light and unnoticeable in a dark room. The Light cloudy spot was present whether the TV was on or off. So it appears to be an issue with the fresnel and/or lenticular screens.

I had a technician replace the screens. But the lenticular and fresnel screens were shipped separately and were originally placed into the TV without taping or holding them together. After the install the original cloudy area was gone, but about the bottom 1/5 of the screen is now cloudy and it is worse then when the screens were originally replaced.

So a couple questions, samsungparts sells the two screens separate, is there anywhere to get the screens already attached together (original screens had tape and metal brackets holding a few points together)? I've read posts alluding to purchasing paired and attached screens but have been unable to find a place to order them.

Is there a history of problems with the lenticular and fresnel screens on the HLR (or any) series? If so is Samsung aware or doing anything about it?

How best to pursue a resolved repair if the repair technician says there is nothing he can do about it and that's just the way it is?

Any other ideas or advice? It is pretty frustrating to have purchased a relatively expensive TV a little over a year ago and have it not perform as expected. Bright scenes are fine, but any dark levels are seriously compromised on portions of the screen if there is any ambient light.

I'm having problems with my HLR6167. It is now out of warranty so I am dealing with CC extended warranty plan.

Recently a light cloudy area started to appear on the screen. The area was somewhat circular and maybe 6 or so inches in diameter. The light area was more noticeable with brighter ambient light and unnoticeable in a dark room. The Light cloudy spot was present whether the TV was on or off. So it appears to be an issue with the fresnel and/or lenticular screens.

I had a technician replace the screens. But the lenticular and fresnel screens were shipped separately and were originally placed into the TV without taping or holding them together. After the install the original cloudy area was gone, but about the bottom 1/5 of the screen is now cloudy and it is worse then when the screens were originally replaced.

So a couple questions, samsungparts sells the two screens separate, is there anywhere to get the screens already attached together (original screens had tape and metal brackets holding a few points together)? I've read posts alluding to purchasing paired and attached screens but have been unable to find a place to order them.

Is there a history of problems with the lenticular and fresnel screens on the HLR (or any) series? If so is Samsung aware or doing anything about it?

How best to pursue a resolved repair if the repair technician says there is nothing he can do about it and that's just the way it is?

Any other ideas or advice? It is pretty frustrating to have purchased a relatively expensive TV a little over a year ago and have it not perform as expected. Bright scenes are fine, but any dark levels are seriously compromised on portions of the screen if there is any ambient light.

Call Samsung support and ask for the Executive team. Expect a long hold time so ask for the 800 number if they don't offer it. They may suggest another repair but through another shop.

I have a question about replacing the bulb. Is this a do it yourself deal or do you have to have a specialist do it? Thanks

I have a question about replacing the bulb. Is this a do it yourself deal or do you have to have a specialist do it? Thanks

Instructions are in the manual and on Samsung's website. It's DIY.

I would suggest clean hands and a lint free cloth so as not to transfer anything on to the new lamp.

Call Samsung support and ask for the Executive team. Expect a long hold time so ask for the 800 number if they don't offer it. They may suggest another repair but through another shop.

Thanks, that's probably the path I'll pursue. I have talked to Circuit City's extended warranty team and they seem to be helpful. They want someone from the repiar place to come out again and document the condition and if they choose not to do follow through on a satisfactory repair I can escalate the request through CC.

HELP, just accidently splash some coke on my DLP screen?

what is the correct way to clean them? use water? ethanol?

thanks for your kind help

rainby

HELP, just accidently splash some coke on my DLP screen?

what is the correct way to clean them? use water? ethanol?

thanks for your kind help

rainby

ethanol? are you kidding? start with water, work your way up to a very mild soapy water and steer clear of all harsh chemicals including windex.

how much coke did you spill exactly? entire 2 liter or a coke truck ram into your house?

use a cotton shirt to wipe with, not paper towels, as paper products will scratch any surface.

thanks, HD Hockey Guy, i only spill a little bit on the screen.
so i better start with water.

rainby

I have a question about replacing the bulb. Is this a do it yourself deal or do you have to have a specialist do it? Thanks

My bulb went out today, too, on my HLR4667W. I have a 3 year warranty with CC and am hoping to get this fixed today or tomorrow. I can't call till later. Any tips or advice? I was hoping I could run to CC and pick up a new bulb, but do they even carry them?

I have noticed a noise coming from the back of my set that I can clearly hear from my couch. It is a high pitched noise (almost like a whistle) that comes from the back of the set, I'm thinking possibly the fan. It's not what I would describe as fan noise though, as that makes me think more of a low pitched hum than a high pitched whistling noise. I have searched through this forum and not come across anyone describing something similar. I have recentlly hooked up an HDMI cable and have been using that to connect my STB to the set (previously used component); could that possibly be the culprit? Do I have any chance of getting Samsung to send out a tech to look at it (obviously I'd like to spend as little $$ as possible). If anyone has any advice I would appreciate it.

I have noticed a noise coming from the back of my set that I can clearly hear from my couch. It is a high pitched noise (almost like a whistle) that comes from the back of the set, I'm thinking possibly the fan.
When you turn off the tv does the noise continue for a minute or two?
The fan stays on for a bit to cool the bulb.... have a listen.

My bulb went out today, too, on my HLR4667W. I have a 3 year warranty with CC and am hoping to get this fixed today or tomorrow. I can't call till later. Any tips or advice? I was hoping I could run to CC and pick up a new bulb, but do they even carry them?

Aren't bulbs considered a consumable by CC? I'd guess it's going to take days/weeks either way.... let us know.

When you turn off the tv does the noise continue for a minute or two?
The fan stays on for a bit to cool the bulb.... have a listen.

Yes, the noise continues for a little bit (less than a minute) after I turn the set off. I guess it's gotta be the fan. Do I have any options for fixing it?

Yes, the noise continues for a little bit (less than a minute) after I turn the set off. I guess it's gotta be the fan. Do I have any options for fixing it?

Don't know. When you listen closely behind the tv does it sound like the fan is operating normal (just loud), or ???

I noticed that my fan is loud but it doesn't sound obstructed or out of balance (actually the first few weeks it did). Now it sounds loud but seems to have a normal sound... wow I bet that sounds wierd.

Does anyone with this TV experience "underscan" watching HD commercials or HD channel content that isn't in widescreen? I see a thin white area at the upper edge of the image when watching this content, as if I'm viewing past the top of the image.

Is this a normal problem or is something out of whack on my tv?

you are.. happens on most hdtvs

I just noticed a white spot, dead center in the screen, about the size of a baseball. Does anyone know what this is?

It's there when the TV is turned off so I know it's not a reflection off the bulb. Also, in very dark scenes, I can see it.

Any ideas?

I just noticed a white spot, dead center in the screen, about the size of a baseball. Does anyone know what this is?
It's there when the TV is turned off so I know it's not a reflection off the bulb. Also, in very dark scenes, I can see it.
Any ideas?

Very common. It's due to light in the room reflecting on the tv internals. The tv ships with a dedicated page notifying customers of this so they don't freak out.

Don't know. When you listen closely behind the tv does it sound like the fan is operating normal (just loud), or ???

I noticed that my fan is loud but it doesn't sound obstructed or out of balance (actually the first few weeks it did). Now it sounds loud but seems to have a normal sound... wow I bet that sounds wierd.


No, it doesnt sound like the fan is operating normal. There is a loud high pitched hissing/whistling coming from the back of the set. Specfically, it's the area in the back to the right of all the inputs, where there are slits and a lot of light coming out. If I put something there to cover that part up (i.e. a pillow to muffle the sound), the hissing goes away. I assume this is a really really bad idea to block it like that so I dont really consider that a viable solution.

No, it doesnt sound like the fan is operating normal. There is a loud high pitched hissing/whistling coming from the back of the set. Specfically, it's the area in the back to the right of all the inputs, where there are slits and a lot of light coming out. If I put something there to cover that part up (i.e. a pillow to muffle the sound), the hissing goes away. I assume this is a really really bad idea to block it like that so I dont really consider that a viable solution.

yeah... um don't block the fan... hehe. Sounds like your fan has a bad bearing in the motor. Call for a service visit (hope you're in the warranty still). They should replace it altogether - or if you're not in the warranty and feel like getting frisky, try some strategic 3in1 oil or WD-40?

I can't hear my fan at all really - and I hear the DVR crunching on the hard drive if anything - sitting 12 feet away.

On a side note - my buddy bought a 42 inch 1080p sammy and I played around with his settings this weekend - man is it nice to have that ON/OFF option for DNIe.... :(

If you don't think you are experiencing lag you may want to report your experience on the web site below. You may also want to duplicate the experiment reported there.

http://gear.ign.com/articles/720/720303p1.html

I have emailed the author of this article now twice to clarify the fact that he states xboxes, not xbox 360s are used in testing this lag in the article. No response as of yet.

Sorry to change the subject but I need advice. My 5667 is experiencing macro blocking or whatever it's called when the HD picture begins to freeze up with blocks of the picture and the audio sputters. A little bit of info, I'm receiving high definition channels thru a HD box provided by my local cable company. Previously I never had this problem but the past few days it's become unbearable to the point I either turn it off or switch to one of the non HD channels where the reception is fine. Is this a cable box problem or something in the Samsung? Thanks for any insight you can share.

yeah... um don't block the fan... hehe. Sounds like your fan has a bad bearing in the motor. Call for a service visit (hope you're in the warranty still). They should replace it altogether - or if you're not in the warranty and feel like getting frisky, try some strategic 3in1 oil or WD-40?

I can't hear my fan at all really - and I hear the DVR crunching on the hard drive if anything - sitting 12 feet away.

On a side note - my buddy bought a 42 inch 1080p sammy and I played around with his settings this weekend - man is it nice to have that ON/OFF option for DNIe.... :(

Thanks, I actually called Samsung on Saturday and reported the problem. The technician came out this morning and said it was the bearing on the color wheel. He said the problem is fairly common. He installed a new color wheel which seemed to solve it. Problem is, the sound usually didnt start until the set was on for about 10-15 minutes, so I'm not completely sure that it's fixed b/c I had to run to work right after he left. I was under warranty, but I asked him how much it would have cost if not. He said the color wheel costs about $90 but the job would have cost about $300 for him to come out. He was only there about 45 minutes, do these guys really charge that much?? Maybe he included the time he had to drive to my place (took him about 1 hr each way). I'm thinking if I have the problem again and I'm not under warranty anymore, I should just buy the color wheel and replace it myself, it didn't look that difficult.

Sorry to change the subject but I need advice. My 5667 is experiencing macro blocking or whatever it's called when the HD picture begins to freeze up with blocks of the picture and the audio sputters. A little bit of info, I'm receiving high definition channels thru a HD box provided by my local cable company. Previously I never had this problem but the past few days it's become unbearable to the point I either turn it off or switch to one of the non HD channels where the reception is fine. Is this a cable box problem or something in the Samsung? Thanks for any insight you can share.

I'm having the same issues, and i never did before. But it could be on several levels, for you and I to be having the same problem it would have to be a nat'l network feed issue which is highly unlikely. Starting from the lowest level to the highest: individual cable box/signal strength, local headend, region, Comcast nat'l network, entire network feed.

But mine isn't "unbearable", it happened 3 times last night during Prison Break. I need to just watch a show on the TV's QAM tuner, that would tell if it's the cable box or not... try that(if you TV has an HD tuner).

I'm having the same issues, and i never did before. But it could be on several levels, for you and I to be having the same problem it would have to be a nat'l network feed issue which is highly unlikely. Starting from the lowest level to the highest: individual cable box/signal strength, local headend, region, Comcast nat'l network, entire network feed.

But mine isn't "unbearable", it happened 3 times last night during Prison Break. I need to just watch a show on the TV's QAM tuner, that would tell if it's the cable box or not... try that(if you TV has an HD tuner).

this sounds like a cable feed issue - from the satellite down to the local cable network related. It's definately not your tv - this is cable related if you see actual break-up of the signal and hear an audio distortion related to it.

macro blocking is visual only, and is the blockiness you see where compression is apparent - usually in dark scenes, underwater, and sky shots where you see many levels of the same color in gradients.

IMO, your tv is fine - this is at worst your cable box, but more likely the cable provider's feed getting interference or signal degradation. Call it in and they will test your line for the signal strength and boost the signal, or install an amplifier most likely.

Thanks, I actually called Samsung on Saturday and reported the problem. The technician came out this morning and said it was the bearing on the color wheel. He said the problem is fairly common. He installed a new color wheel which seemed to solve it. Problem is, the sound usually didnt start until the set was on for about 10-15 minutes, so I'm not completely sure that it's fixed b/c I had to run to work right after he left. I was under warranty, but I asked him how much it would have cost if not. He said the color wheel costs about $90 but the job would have cost about $300 for him to come out. He was only there about 45 minutes, do these guys really charge that much?? Maybe he included the time he had to drive to my place (took him about 1 hr each way). I'm thinking if I have the problem again and I'm not under warranty anymore, I should just buy the color wheel and replace it myself, it didn't look that difficult.

forgot about the color wheel - doh! well i guessed right on the bearing anyways... but that makes since, as it has a pretty darn high RPM. Good to know...

If you have the problem again, I'd call it in as a warranty just the same - they should cover the new parts and labor just the same as before. If not, sure you could try to replace it yourself, but only as a last resort. how long are the new parts covered? it should say on your invoice/work order he left with you.

$300 sounds about right - labor usually runs 2x parts costs these days. Look at your labor rate to have someone work on your car... yikes!

Does anyone with this TV experience "underscan" watching HD commercials or HD channel content that isn't in widescreen? I see a thin white area at the upper edge of the image when watching this content, as if I'm viewing past the top of the image.

Is this a normal problem or is something out of whack on my tv?

I see this on one HD channel and usually only one program when they convert from SD.

...

So a couple questions, samsungparts sells the two screens separate, is there anywhere to get the screens already attached together (original screens had tape and metal brackets holding a few points together)? I've read posts alluding to purchasing paired and attached screens but have been unable to find a place to order them.

Is there a history of problems with the lenticular and fresnel screens on the HLR (or any) series? If so is Samsung aware or doing anything about it?

How best to pursue a resolved repair if the repair technician says there is nothing he can do about it and that's just the way it is?

Any other ideas or advice? It is pretty frustrating to have purchased a relatively expensive TV a little over a year ago and have it not perform as expected. Bright scenes are fine, but any dark levels are seriously compromised on portions of the screen if there is any ambient light.

I called Sears and you can buy the screen separate or together at a reasonable price. You could even take it in and have a technitian do it. I scratched mine and need a replacement. Since the screens are put together I was encouraged to either buy both screens and do it myself or buy one and pay the tech. The price was about the same. Sears was much more helpful and knowledgable than anybody else I talked to about screens.

Thanks, I actually called Samsung on Saturday and reported the problem. The technician came out this morning and said it was the bearing on the color wheel. He said the problem is fairly common. He installed a new color wheel which seemed to solve it.

Before it was "fixed," did the noise go away immediately when you turned off the TV or stay on for a few seconds with the fan? Mine has an intermittent vibration and loud fan, but both noises remain during the cool-down period when I turn off the tv (I assume it's just the fan).

Before it was "fixed," did the noise go away immediately when you turned off the TV or stay on for a few seconds with the fan? Mine has an intermittent vibration and loud fan, but both noises remain during the cool-down period when I turn off the tv (I assume it's just the fan).

The noise stayed on a few seconds with the fan. The noise stopped when the cool down was complete and the fan turned off. I will check it out tonight and make sure that the new color wheel got rid of the noise.

The noise stayed on a few seconds with the fan. The noise stopped when the cool down was complete and the fan turned off. I will check it out tonight and make sure that the new color wheel got rid of the noise.

the fan and color wheel could very well both stay on during the cool down, since the color wheel is right next to the lamp, it might overheat if stationary in front of that hot component? probably both powered from the same circuit...

I wouldn't let the duration of the noise lead you either way necessarily.

I see this on one HD channel and usually only one program when they convert from SD.

same here - i saw it frequently during the NHL stanley cup games on OLN that were carried on INHD... the SD channel didn't show the thin white line above the top status bar showing the score and time, but the HD feed did.

this sounds like a cable feed issue - from the satellite down to the local cable network related. It's definately not your tv - this is cable related if you see actual break-up of the signal and hear an audio distortion related to it.

macro blocking is visual only, and is the blockiness you see where compression is apparent - usually in dark scenes, underwater, and sky shots where you see many levels of the same color in gradients.

IMO, your tv is fine - this is at worst your cable box, but more likely the cable provider's feed getting interference or signal degradation. Call it in and they will test your line for the signal strength and boost the signal, or install an amplifier most likely.

problem solved. Larry the Cable guy came out, well it wasn't really him but the guy they sent had mud for brains. So after he checked the signal which was fine, he then went down the street and apparently boosted the amps. Came back and says that should fix your problems....one hour later, the same thing starts up again. So I unhooked the cable box and took it to the cable provider office and said replace it. They did and problem solved. Where do these morons get their training?

problem solved. Larry the Cable guy came out, well it wasn't really him but the guy they sent had mud for brains. So after he checked the signal which was fine, he then went down the street and apparently boosted the amps. Came back and says that should fix your problems....one hour later, the same thing starts up again. So I unhooked the cable box and took it to the cable provider office and said replace it. They did and problem solved. Where do these morons get their training?

I think they learn more from us than vice versa... at least its fixed (and you got a boosted signal as a bonus!).

I'd love to see Larry the Cable guy show up on a service call... that'd be worth the hassel! "What you got here is a case of low disk drive pressure on your hard drive. The DVR can't get enough pressure from the write head on the disk, so you're getting breakup."

i highly doubt he boosted your signal.. most of the in house technicians can't adjust the amps on the poll, they'd have to put in for a plant call. most likely he removed a splitter and BSed you.

i highly doubt he boosted your signal.. most of the in house technicians can't adjust the amps on the poll, they'd have to put in for a plant call. most likely he removed a splitter and BSed you.

i've seen the techs install a little device they say is a signal booster - i'm sure it's not a true clean signal boost, but rather something similiar to those booster amps we used to install in our cars back in high school to crank up our tapes of whitesnake and ac/dc... remember the treble rebel sounds of 5% THD.... aaaah take me back.... where's my bandana and parachute pants?

well whatever it was he did wasn't the culprit....it was the cable box, which I figured out after he left. If only he could have figured that out the first trip. But in any case no more poor HD reception and blocking.

Is there a way to schedule a TV guide recording to a firewire device (instead of to VCR)?

Can anyone help me find the post detailing how to enter the service menu and turn off DNLE on my HLR4667? I've searched tons of pages and only found instructions for previous series sets...

Can anyone help me find the post detailing how to enter the service menu and turn off DNLE on my HLR4667? I've searched tons of pages and only found instructions for previous series sets...

From post 2958: In regards to the original values in the service menu for DNIE, they can be found on Page 94, Post 2820. I'm not sure if that goes for all the HLR models, but it was correct for my HLR4667W.

After turning off DNIE w/ these settings on my 4266, my greens were bright and glowing. For instance, in the opening scene of HP, Prisoner... the moss on the tombstones seemed to glow green. With DNIE, the scene was so dark that I could not even see the tombstones much less the moss. If you have the same problem there is another post by someone about too much green in dark scenes and a setting change in the user menu that is not included in the DNIE settings post. Cannot remember his name but do a search on "brett" as I posted my results after resetting that green value using his information.

Brett

Can anyone help me find the post detailing how to enter the service menu and turn off DNLE on my HLR4667? I've searched tons of pages and only found instructions for previous series sets...

Go to post 2820. I listed original DNIE settings and the changes.

brett

Awesome, thanks!

Awesome, thanks!

Jon,

How did the calibration go?

HLR5667W. One year old. Front Indicator light is blinking (all three, Timer, lamp and stand by/temp). That indicates defective lamp. When I try to turn it on There is a ringing sound (like a phone ringing). What is the sound? Do I just replace the lamp?

HLR5667W. One year old. Front Indicator light is blinking (all three, Timer, lamp and stand by/temp). That indicates defective lamp. When I try to turn it on There is a ringing sound (like a phone ringing). What is the sound? Do I just replace the lamp?

Sure sounds like it to me. Look in the back of the manual, there is a step by step procedure for changing the lamp.

Three important considerations:

1. Get the right lamp (label on left side of TV will have it behind the screen)

2. Don't touch the lamp without something to keep your finger oils off the lamp (will cause premature failure).

3. Make sure the set is unplugged (not just turned off) BEFORE you go to replace the lamp.

How many hours did you have on your set before the lamp went out?

Is there a do-it-yourself guide to replace the color wheel on a Samsung Dlp HLN 5086w?

HLR5667W. One year old. Front Indicator light is blinking (all three, Timer, lamp and stand by/temp). That indicates defective lamp. When I try to turn it on There is a ringing sound (like a phone ringing). What is the sound? Do I just replace the lamp?

You sure that ringing sound isn't the little melody sound that plays when the tv starts up? :)

I had my 5667 just turn off by itself with the 3 lights flashing. After it happened the 3rd time I called support since my tv was only 8 months old. Tech came out, replaced the entire digital board/lamp assembly. If you haven't had the tv that long, then it could be something else wrong, definetly call for service.

On several occasions my TV has randomly turned itself back on about 10 minutes after I've shut it down (of course it only happens after I've gone upstairs to bed). I was three days shy of my 15 month warranty so I called them. [Of course they had no record of my online product registration which gave me an additional three months of warranty coverage; they said they would honor it if I faxed my receipt so I can't complain too much].

The rep had me unplug the set and hold the power button down for 30 seconds. She said if the problem recurs to call them back for service.

I made sure it wasn't a bad remote as I put them all away so there's no way they could fire off. Has anyone had this problem?

Thanks for the comments.

I changed the lamp. It was less than a year old and not a lot of time on it (I don't know how to get to the hour meter). There were broken pieces of glass inside the bulb. It went out immediately, rather than slowly dimming. Changing the bulb was easy once I realized it doesn't come straight out, but on an angle. It was tight a tight squeeze to the bulb so I didn't see the angle right away.

Jon,

How did the calibration go?

I got into the SM and couldn't figure out how to turn off dnle. The DNLE thing took me into detailed settings so I decided not to play with it.

I looked around to see how many bulb hours and accidentally reset the bulb counter... only had 406 hours so far..... I figure if I accidentally did that I have no business in the SM! :eek:

Ok, first issue with hlr 5067. Had it about 8 months. Just the other day, I noticed a shadow about .5-1" that is vertical on the left side. It goes down the complete side of the screen. It doesn't stand out, but it caught my eye. There's also a lighter shadow about .5" to the left of that as well. I think it's the TV because when I go to HD over the air, it's there also, so that kind of rules out Direct TV. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Ok, first issue with hlr 5067. Had it about 8 months. Just the other day, I noticed a shadow about .5-1" that is vertical on the left side. It goes down the complete side of the screen. It doesn't stand out, but it caught my eye. There's also a lighter shadow about .5" to the left of that as well. I think it's the TV because when I go to HD over the air, it's there also, so that kind of rules out Direct TV. Any suggestions? Thanks.

I don't know of anyone else mentionin this problem. I don't know, but it sounds like your light engine is out of alignment on the projection - shifted left from center. I'd call for a tech to come out and inspect it. Hopefully a warranty issue.

Just a guess...

I've had the hlr-4667 for about 10 months now. Very happy with HD, gaming, and DVD. My only complaint was the occasional rainbow which I did get used to. A few months ago I started to notice the occasional flicker. It was as if the contrast was being turned up and down really fast. It comes and goes. I noticed in all inputs and on cable menus as well. Called Samsung and they came out and replaced the light engine. It seemed to work fine for a couple of weeks but, alas, the problem is back.
Anyone else experiance this? I really like the TV, but this is annoying.

I've had the hlr-4667 for about 10 months now. Very happy with HD, gaming, and DVD. My only complaint was the occasional rainbow which I did get used to. A few months ago I started to notice the occasional flicker. It was as if the contrast was being turned up and down really fast. It comes and goes. I noticed in all inputs and on cable menus as well. Called Samsung and they came out and replaced the light engine. It seemed to work fine for a couple of weeks but, alas, the problem is back.
Anyone else experiance this? I really like the TV, but this is annoying.

I have the same issue, it can flicker for a couple of days and work perfect for a couple a days. Like you, it happens in all inputs, but I most notice it in PC mode. My 4667 is only around 6 months old. :(

I have the same issue, it can flicker for a couple of days and work perfect for a couple a days. Like you, it happens in all inputs, but I most notice it in PC mode. My 4667 is only around 6 months old. :(

If you had the light engine replaced - i don't understand how it could still do it? odd...

I don't know, man. I'm now thinking it is a bulb issue? I will look into getting it replaced. I have about 2500 hours so far. Also, after the light engine replacement the tech changed some values including the index and some color values, etc. Unfortunately, It just doesn't look as good to me as before... :( :( :(

Can someone please confirm that if I purchase a HL-R4667W, I will be able to turn DNIE off, I dont want to have any lag playing any gaming systems.

Can someone please confirm that if I purchase a HL-R4667W, I will be able to turn DNIE off, I dont want to have any lag playing any gaming systems.

I haven't turned DNIE off, I didn't know it stopped the lagging.

On the other hand, I do notice lagging using a ps2 through component input. It makes sport games unplayable, like golf.

The HLR series does not allow you to turn off the DNIE function without going into the service menu. It is not a simple task to turn off dnie in the service menu either, you need to know what you are doing. Not sure about lag on games with the HLR series, as I have not connected a gaming system up to mine yet, but I hear that the DNIE is not enabled on the VGA port.

I haven't turned DNIE off, I didn't know it stopped the lagging.

On the other hand, I do notice lagging using a ps2 through component input. It makes sport games unplayable, like golf.

I have an HL-R5067 with a PS2 hooked up via component. I don't notice a significant lag on Madden 2006. If there is one, maybe I'm just used to it.

My apologies for being a noob on this but..... I noted in the first couple of pages of this thread that a couple of people noted not being able to swap PIP without going through the series of menus. I have hunted and I have found several discrete codes that work to turn PIP on but, I have not found one to make it swap. (The 213 one that the HLP tvs use does nothing on mine.) I was wondering if someone had found one OR if it was in the 107 pages of this thread. :) Thanks!

I am really starting to get concerned as we get closer to the PS3's release. I hope lag won't be a significant issue over HDMI on my 5667w, but I can only imagine how badly a game like Sonic might lag...

If it ends up a significant issue, I think it is within all our rights to lobby Samsung for a fix for a product we spent thousands of dollars on.

All the posts on lag in this thread point to the original xbox. I have a 360 connected to this tv and experience no lag. I play 3-4 nights a week on my 360; including online play. Madden, Halo 2, etc. I experienced lag first hand with an original xbox but the 360 is butter.

Ok, first issue with hlr 5067. Had it about 8 months. Just the other day, I noticed a shadow about .5-1" that is vertical on the left side. It goes down the complete side of the screen. It doesn't stand out, but it caught my eye. There's also a lighter shadow about .5" to the left of that as well. I think it's the TV because when I go to HD over the air, it's there also, so that kind of rules out Direct TV. Any suggestions? Thanks.

Just wanted to update. ...

Just got off the phone with Samsung about the shadow affect. It's under warranty still, and they were extremely easy to deal with. Just waiting on a service tech to accept the additional mileage to come out to fix it. Since I'm in maine, it's outside the range of the normal driving distance for the service tech's. So, within a few days I should have my service call scheduled. I was very pleased with my customer service experience with them so far.

Stay tuned....

I am really starting to get concerned as we get closer to the PS3's release. I hope lag won't be a significant issue over HDMI on my 5667w, but I can only imagine how badly a game like Sonic might lag...

If it ends up a significant issue, I think it is within all our rights to lobby Samsung for a fix for a product we spent thousands of dollars on.

i don't know what they could do to fix it... lag is a purely physical result of digital processing time. the more processing - the more time - the more delay. If the signals are already 720p incoming, the processing is negligable, and this would lead to more of a cause from the signal originator. Who you gonna sue? every production house of HD content? Every manf. of games? Plus it has been well established that certain chipsets (sammy's) produce lag for gaming... if you buy a ps3 and use it on a known 'laggy' television... how is that anyone's fault but yours?

From a legal standpoint - you're a flamingo - 1 leg to stand on and it's thin. but hey - if you get a class action suit together for damages resulting from lag - I do have some, and i spent $250 for a digital delay to sync the sound to the video... so I'll take that in damages! :D

Lag is minimized on the VGA input (DNiE is disabled there, thank God), so if the PS3 does not have an available VGA cable you might want to spend $ on a component to VGA transconder.

I have a 360 and only noticed the lag on the component inputs when I changed to the VGA, so there is a minimal amount of lag present in component.

i don't know what they could do to fix it... lag is a purely physical result of digital processing time. the more processing - the more time - the more delay. If the signals are already 720p incoming, the processing is negligable, and this would lead to more of a cause from the signal originator. Who you gonna sue? every production house of HD content? Every manf. of games? Plus it has been well established that certain chipsets (sammy's) produce lag for gaming... if you buy a ps3 and use it on a known 'laggy' television... how is that anyone's fault but yours?

From a legal standpoint - you're a flamingo - 1 leg to stand on and it's thin. but hey - if you get a class action suit together for damages resulting from lag - I do have some, and i spent $250 for a digital delay to sync the sound to the video... so I'll take that in damages! :DWho said "sue"? I said if there was an issue they should be able to do something about it. I bought my TV specifically to be the center of my media center, games included. If it cannot handle gaming properly then it's Samsung's issue to resolve, not mine, especially if it's still under warranty.

What I'm thinking they could do was, however minor, add a patch so that we had the option to turn DNIe off manually on all ports.

At any rate, we'll see how the PS3 does over HDMI. It might not be as much of an issue there, as it's not an analog connection, and we don't know how the set handles fast motion videogames over a digital connection yet.

Has anyone compared our HLR sets to newer ones?

I have a HL-R4667W. I've been considering getting one of the newer sets late this year or early 2007. Maybe go with the 50-inch 1080p Samsung.

What about comparison to the new 720p sets (HLS). Significant improvement?

Thanks.

I use to have this tv and Samsung gave me a full refund because of the game lag.

I use to have this tv and Samsung gave me a full refund because of the game lag.This is exactly what I mean. If you can't use the TV to the fullest of its abilities it's up to Samsung to resolve the problem, exchange for a newer model, etc. Considering I purchased mine towards the end of March I still have plenty of time left on the warranty.

As I've already said, let's just see how the PS3 does over HDMI. It might just be that it's not an issue over a direct digital input.

I use to have this tv and Samsung gave me a full refund because of the game lag.

could you elaborate on this comment? How long after you got the set did you get the refund? How long did it take to resolve - what was the process, who did you contact exactly? etc...

I'm sure there are more than a few people that would want to pursue this path as well. It's only been a year since i bought the 720p set - 56" and now you can get the 1080p model for $400 less than I paid for last year's model. I thought 1080p sets would be sky high in price for a few years at least until there was actual 1080p content out there to watch. :/

i'd just like my info button to actually display the Tv guide info ( that is when the tv guide info actually works itself...)

I agree... the lag issue is of great concern to be on this unit.

I was wondering if Samsung has a firmware update available for this unit. It seems to me that this is purely a SOFTWARE problem, and a simple firmware update should be able to add GAME MODE.

Any thoughts?
Yoshi

I agree... the lag issue is of great concern to be on this unit.

I was wondering if Samsung has a firmware update available for this unit. It seems to me that this is purely a SOFTWARE problem, and a simple firmware update should be able to add GAME MODE.

Any thoughts?
YoshiDo you have an issue now? No sense in complaining about something that might or might not exist.

Just wait it out. Not long now until the PS3 arrives.

My HLR-5067w just started exibiting a weird color issue. Everything looks to have a very strange blue cast to it, yellows and greens do not look right. Could it be a bum color wheel?

My HLR-5067w just started exibiting a weird color issue. Everything looks to have a very strange blue cast to it, yellows and greens do not look right. Could it be a bum color wheel?

My HLR-5067w just started exibiting a weird color issue. Everything looks to have a very strange blue cast to it, yellows and greens do not look right. Could it be a bum color wheel?

Mikey,

Are you using component cables? If so, double check to make sure that the connections are complete. I upgraded to some higher end component cables and the connectors were alot tighter. I thought I had them completely plugged in until I noticed a greenish cast to the screen. One of the connections was not pushed all the way in. That solved my problem.

Brett

My HLR-5067w just started exibiting a weird color issue. Everything looks to have a very strange blue cast to it, yellows and greens do not look right. Could it be a bum color wheel?

I'm usin HDMI inputs and my color has recently taken on a bluish tint - especially on the whites. I saw it on MNF very clearly so I went in and adjusted my custom color to drop the blues from 50 to 45 and upped the green and red to 52 and everything looks great now.

I'm also wondering about my bulb - as it seems I'm turning up my brightness a little more over time. Does the bulb dim over time gradually before going out completely? How dim should i let it go before I call for a service visit?

NHL Season starts tonight and I don't wanna go without a bulb during the overlap of NHL and NFL seasons! that would be a crying shame! :D

Is the bulb included in the samsung warranty? HD Hockey Guy. I have noticed my set doing the same things that you have mentioned. I have had my set since March. So, my bulb may be wearing down as well. Damn, wasn't counting on having to buy a bulb already.

Is the bulb included in the samsung warranty? HD Hockey Guy. I have noticed my set doing the same things that you have mentioned. I have had my set since March. So, my bulb may be wearing down as well. Damn, wasn't counting on having to buy a bulb already.Yes, I think the bulb is covered for the 1st year. Check your warranty.

Is the bulb included in the samsung warranty? HD Hockey Guy. I have noticed my set doing the same things that you have mentioned. I have had my set since March. So, my bulb may be wearing down as well. Damn, wasn't counting on having to buy a bulb already.

I'm not sure about the base Samsung warranty, but I purchased an extended 3 year warranty that does include bulb replacement. I'd estimate my set has about 2000 hours on it, as I was in the service menu about 4 months ago and it had 1250 hours at that point.

Perhaps a call to samsung's support line will clear this up (warranty coverage and bulb life deterioration). I'll let you know if I find out something.

I'm usin HDMI inputs and my color has recently taken on a bluish tint - especially on the whites. I saw it on MNF very clearly so I went in and adjusted my custom color to drop the blues from 50 to 45 and upped the green and red to 52 and everything looks great now.

I'm also wondering about my bulb - as it seems I'm turning up my brightness a little more over time. Does the bulb dim over time gradually before going out completely? How dim should i let it go before I call for a service visit?

NHL Season starts tonight and I don't wanna go without a bulb during the overlap of NHL and NFL seasons! that would be a crying shame! :D

Hockey Guy,
I will have had my HL-R5067 for one year come Friday the 13th (hopefully nothing will happen to the TV on that day!). I have DVE and I wrote down my settings when I calibrated it the last time. If I have time this weekend, I'll pop the disc in and see if, and by how much, my settings have changed. Maybe this will help answer your question whether or not the bulb gradually decreases over time.

Can anyone say with some confidence how long the HLR bulbs have been lasting? I have 2300 hours in first year of use and my image is degrading by the day. It is so dark now that even the Dynamic setting is almost impossible to see. I fear I will watch football this weekend in my bedroom on my 10 year old 32" CTR. (Custom/Std, etc. are now unwatchable.) If my experience is anywhere near average, I have two additional questions: (1) what's the best place to buy a replacement bulb, and (2) has anyone mentioned a class action suit. A $2,500 TV has got to give more than 2500 hours of use before expensive repairs are needed. Samsung has a serious problem if they expect consumers to shell out $200 per year to keep watching their $2,500 products. Any insight is appreciated?

Can anyone say with some confidence how long the HLR bulbs have been lasting? I have 2300 hours in first year of use and my image is degrading by the day. It is so dark now that even the Dynamic setting is almost impossible to see. I fear I will watch football this weekend in my bedroom on my 10 year old 32" CTR. (Custom/Std, etc. are now unwatchable.) If my experience is anywhere near average, I have two additional questions: (1) what's the best place to buy a replacement bulb, and (2) has anyone mentioned a class action suit. A $2,500 TV has got to give more than 2500 hours of use before expensive repairs are needed. Samsung has a serious problem if they expect consumers to shell out $200 per year to keep watching their $2,500 products. Any insight is appreciated?
I don't know how many hours I have on my bulb, but I've had my HL-R5067 for just about a year now, as well. I have no obviously noticeable degradation of the picture brightness. If you're still within the Samsung 12-month warranty period, you might want to give them a call first. Did you purchase an extended warranty? I bought mine from CC with an extended warranty and the extended warranty covers the bulb. If you're beyond the factory warranty period and have the extended warranty, call the store where you bought the TV.

Update: After my post re a quickly dimming bulb, I called Samsung. I actually got a human at 6:00 p.m. CDT on a Saturday, which was a nice surprise. Thankfully, I realized I had two days left on my factory warranty, and they are coming out so hopefully that will end well. The tech called me within 24 hours, - again, very good - but the install may take 10 days. If the problem is more than the bulb, it will take even longer. (Not much chance of watching the LSU-Florida game today. But I didn't really want to watch my team play its biggest game yet in HD anyway, who would?) Also, the tech mentioned that sometimes the failure is not the bulb, but a $1,200 DMD(?) board! A $1,200 year-two out-of-warranty repair on a $2,000 product is just fraud.

One thing I will point out about the warranty; my warranty had two days left when I called Samsung – i.e., filed a warranty claim. But the kind women on the phone told me I may not get coverage because the claim would not be filed with the local tech until after those two days expired. What??? As I explained to her as politely as I could, a contract for year is a contract for a year, not a year unless Samsung unilaterally decides to lop off two days, or otherwise change the terms. She extended the warranty 90 days to end the dispute - again, nice - but caller beware. Samsung will try to avoid its obligations so stand up for yourself and read your warranty before you call.

And come on Samsung, a one-year warranty on a $2,000-plus purchase does not warrant any effort to avoid coverage. Just be happy so many sets will fail in the second year. Great to have a human on the phone, nice to extend the warranty briefly, etc, but you lost one customer (any my often extended recommendation). I work too hard to waste money on disposable TVs. And please don’t reply to this post with all the “new technology is a gamble, just live with it” arguments. I get it, but come on. This is not 1998. HD is not new. DLP is not new. Light bulbs are not new. If this technology is going to fail at 2500 hours that should be stated clearly on the front of the box in big letters so buyers can know that going in. You can’t withhold that critical fact and then say it was a gamble.

And yes, I do have a $500 CC extended warranty, but that only covers one bulb. If the bulbs fail every 2200 hours, I expect I will need to use the CC warranty in about a year. That makes years 3 - 10 (10, who am I kidding, 5) pretty frustrating and expensive I'm guessing (at least $1,000 + frustration).

If you filled out your warranty card (or online) you get three months added to your original twelve month warranty. I would call to verify they have it on file.

Good point on the warranty extension. I also must recommend an extended warranty to new buyers (even post HLR models) since my experience does not appear to shock anyone - Samsung, techs, etc. - and the basic technology of bulbs, color wheels, and boards, is still being used.

Final post on this issue: After dimming for a week or so, the bulb has now blown - very loudly actually. After failure, the TV tried to restart while making sounds like gravel had developed in some rotating part - color wheel? I say to all Samsung DLP owners, if you notice the image dimming at all, and you have time on your warranty, call immediately. It is THE sign that your TV is dying. Thankfully, mine died literally 3 hours before the original warranty expired. Sad, Sad, Sad. No more Sammys for me.

Oh damn. I didn't file the warranty because I didn't even open the box until a month into owning it.

Don't blame Sammy though, blame the technology. It's DLP, still a projector, a bulb and lots of moving parts...Now if they honor warranty then it's just fine. I probably won't own another one of these sets because the damn geometry is so far off, especially for 4:3. When the tech told me there was nothing she could do it pissed me off. You can see it clear across the room.:(

We shall see how well the PS3 plays on this thing over HDMI. Is DNIe turned off over DNIe?

Final post on this issue: After dimming for a week or so, the bulb has now blown - very loudly actually. After failure, the TV tried to restart while making sounds like gravel had developed in some rotating part - color wheel? I say to all Samsung DLP owners, if you notice the image dimming at all, and you have time on your warranty, call immediately. It is THE sign that your TV is dying. Thankfully, mine died literally 3 hours before the original warranty expired. Sad, Sad, Sad. No more Sammys for me.

well that stinks - sorry for your troubles... but my image has only dimmed i'd estimate a max of 10 percent over the year time frame... so when I'm bumping it to the dynamic setting to get vibrant whites, I'll be putting in that tech call on teh extended warranty... mine supposedly covers bulb(s) not just one, so maybe I've lucked out.

Perhaps you should look into the new LED DLP's... they have a 10,000 hour bulb life - which should last you about 5-7 years on the first one.

"Record and playback via IEEE 1394 (a.k.a. Firewire) with linux!" Thread Coming soon !
Awesome HD recording and playback useing Samsung HLR DLP.

Could someone recommend a standalone DVR (like Panasonic, Samsung, … w/o subscription kind) that works well with this TV via Firewire connection?

"Record and playback via IEEE 1394 (a.k.a. Firewire) with linux!" Thread Coming soon !
Awesome HD recording and playback useing Samsung HLR DLP.To hell with that. You figure out how to get DVHS recording from a PC over Firewire working smoothly (even over LINUX) then you're my hero!

To hell with that. You figure out how to get DVHS recording from a PC over Firewire working smoothly (even over LINUX) then you're my hero!
The real hero is Dan Dennedy I'm just the hack.
The remarkable feature of test-mpeg2 software it can transmit (playback) back to the Samsung HDTV.
The Thread is here > AVS Forum > HDTV > HDTV Recorders > Record and playback via IEEE 1394 (a.k.a. Firewire) with linux!

The Thread is here > AVS Forum > HDTV > HDTV Recorders > Record and playback via IEEE 1394 (a.k.a. Firewire) with linux!N/M. Unfortunately it doesn't have anything to do with transfering to DVHS over Firewire.

Forgive me if this is a noob question. With all of the 1080p tv's coming out now, the market will follow. If content is put out in 1080p only, say in over the air broadcasts, will my TV still be able to view it?
I guess I am wondering if when 1080p content is the "norm" will my TV be able to keep up since it currently accepts 480i/p 720p, and 1080i?
I hate to think that this TV will be obsolete in 5-6 years

1080p broadcast is WAAAAAY out there as far as being a standard. Broadcasters are currently struggling to meet the 720p and 1080i requirements and the infrastructure necessary.

1080p will be here - it already is with HD DVD/Blu-ray, but is it worth the cost now to be positioned for the future? only you can answer that.

even if you happen into a 1080p broadcast, your tv will convert to 720p as that is it's native resolution. Look at the pc on your tv via vga... that is already a higher resolution signal being converted to 720p. No need to worry.

1080p would be nice to have, but not necessary right now or in the near future. ;)

Anyone uses CinemaVU DVR with this TV?

http://www.cinemavu.com/aboutcvu.html

N/M. Unfortunately it doesn't have anything to do with transfering to DVHS over Firewire.
Should work with any Audio/Video Control (av/c) device. Settop box, DVHS, Monitor, Tuner, At least for 5C copy free content.
I connected the Linux machine to a XP machine, Xp found the Linux machine as a Tape recorder, and I was able to capture with CapDVHS.exe 0..3.6, CapDVHS crashed after about 2 minutes, I hear that happens quite often with CapDVHS. Had a look at the received file and looked ok( sync byte and time stamp ).
While testing and debugging I referred to the JVC 1394 Interface Implementation Guideline for D-VHS Version 1.00.
What is your DVHS make and model number? I'll try to help.

Should work with any Audio/Video Control (av/c) device. Settop box, DVHS, Monitor, Tuner, At least for 5C copy free content.
I connected the Linux machine to a XP machine, Xp found the Linux machine as a Tape recorder, and I was able to capture with CapDVHS.exe 0..3.6, CapDVHS crashed after about 2 minutes, I hear that happens quite often with CapDVHS. Had a look at the received file and looked ok( sync byte and time stamp ).
While testing and debugging I referred to the JVC 1394 Interface Implementation Guideline for D-VHS Version 1.00.
What is your DVHS make and model number? I'll try to help.I'll move this conversation over to the Recorders forum when I'm ready to do a dual-boot setup. Right now I just upgraded to a dual-core E6600, and I plan on running RC2 Vista 64X on it if I can find it. Yeah, we're in the wrong forum for this stuff, I know...Anywhoo, I have a JVC 30K DVHS.

And, once again...PS3 is getting closer and closer. Here's hoping DNIe is OFF on the HDMI port, so we get little to no blur off it. I really, really hate DNIe with a passion. I would have my set professionally calibrated, but I'm too cheap to pay the $400 for it, and my living environment doesn't really account for it.

I can't believe after all this time Samsung didn't do a simple firmware upgrade for the set that the techs could just pop into the sets when they arrive that would upgrade the menu with the option to turn it on and off. Why would it be so hard?

Is there any way to reset the SM to the factory defaults? If not, does anybody have a list of all the default settings?

Anyone know where to buy replacement parts for these sammy dlps? I need a new silver grill cover for mine. It got scratched pretty good and need a new one. I have the 56 inch model. Thanks