Samsung HLRxx67W Owners Thread --- 720p DLP HDTV [Text View] - Page 14

Its_Dave

10-23-06, 02:50 PM

Hi i think this is were i should be posting i bought a Samsung 50" DLP projection HL-R5064W TV on friday the 20 alway wanted a big screen and i finally got one
i have a few concerns i am hoping you all can help me with

first i went to register my tv to get my warranty and Samsung wouldn't because i bought the tv at a sale what the story is that in Edmonton Alberta a visions store had a fire and they were selling everything they had in stock half would be sold in Edmonton and the other half in Calgary ( about 3 hours away) i live in Calgary and i bought it at the sale the sale was not at a vision store it was at an auction but it wasn't auctioned off it is brand new in a box never opened and from my understanding isn't refurbished is there anyway i can get my one year warranty?
i contacted visions via e-mail about my problem and waiting for a reply

other problem is and why i want a warranty is i am getting a loud humming noise i read some other theads off of google that lead me here and read some more on here i have heard it could be the fan or colour wheel i don't think its a normal noise you can hear it over the tv when the sound pauses or is quite on a show is it a break in period or a problem i contacted samsungs tech. and they told me if it gets louder contact them back but i dont' have a warranty so how expensive could this be i just spent alot of money on this tv and this isn't problems i wanted the picture and everything else is great

all help is welcome thank you very much sorry for the long post

jjost

10-23-06, 05:30 PM

Actually, I only hope that it can do one thing: timer recording any channel accessible through the CableCard, but it seems with our Samsung TV, that is impossible because there's no way to timer record a program to firewire device!

The Samsung is listed on the company's compatibility list. Doesn't the D-Ling function accomplish what you want to do? --John

midnightman

10-23-06, 09:06 PM

The Samsung is listed on the company's compatibility list. Doesn't the D-Ling function accomplish what you want to do? --John
With CinemaVU- To record: YES. To timer record: NO. In other words, you can only record what you're watching. There's no way to schedule recording to firewire device (that I know of).

Diplomat

10-24-06, 08:31 AM

Is anyone using the firewire and a dvd recorder combination. Right now I am only getting HD OTA. I would like to record it like a vcr. Rather than DVHS I would like to use a dvd recorder. Is this possible?

Milmanias

10-24-06, 12:08 PM

And, once again...PS3 is getting closer and closer. Here's hoping DNIe is OFF on the HDMI port, so we get little to no blur off it. I really, really hate DNIe with a passion. I would have my set professionally calibrated, but I'm too cheap to pay the $400 for it, and my living environment doesn't really account for it.

I can't believe after all this time Samsung didn't do a simple firmware upgrade for the set that the techs could just pop into the sets when they arrive that would upgrade the menu with the option to turn it on and off. Why would it be so hard?

I hate DNIe as well. Has anyone confirmed if it's in the HDMI? I would bet it is enabled but who knows. I would suggest a VGA transconder if there are no PS3 VGA cables. I have my 360 that way. It also helps to control the overscan using the wide pc mode.

MoInSTL

10-25-06, 06:16 PM

I have a HL-R5667W and purchased the Samsung 46-56" expandable stand. It's only 720p but I love it and the picture is amazing. My speaker bar now smiles at me as it has a sag in it. Tech sent out says not to worry, then Samsung calls a few days later and says they will replace it. I will probably upgrade to the 1080p if I get a new one for a fee but based on the posts, and a few other things I have heard...maybe not.
Samsung says there is a replacement part for the stand and the CSR said that a "guy" at Samsung had the same thing happen to him, changed it, and speaker bar went back to normal. So I go that route, or Samsung says to go get a new one.
Here's my delima...do I go with the HLS as Samsung and BB are out of the HL-R, or keep the current one, get the part for the stand and see what happens? The tech said the HLR's have been better. I can't imagine paying whatever we pay for our tv's and they don't work!
Anyone have any suggestions?
Thanks,
thestashman

I had an HLR and now have the HLS. Faster coler wheel and lots more. Go to their web site and do a comparison. Can turn off DNIe and noise reduction too. No cable card though. I use D* so that's not an issue for me. Can't use PIP or the TV Guide with D* either so it depends on your needs. Stlll, I'd compare them and decide then.

Faster, smaller color wheel (10,800 rpm to 14,400 rpm) the ability to turn DNIE off using the remote rather than service menu, and Cinema Smooth Gen-5 HD vs. new Single digital micro mirror device

DaveFi

10-26-06, 11:46 PM

I absolutely refuse to buy a VGA transcoder to use the PS3. I am already using my PC through that connection. If the PS3 is significantly blurry I'm going to ask for a refund or ask for this years model.

jjost

10-27-06, 05:15 PM

With CinemaVU- To record: YES. To timer record: NO. In other words, you can only record what you're watching. There's no way to schedule recording to firewire device (that I know of).

Did you ever find a firewire DVR device that would handle schedule recording on a Samsung HL-R5067W? --John

thadius65

10-29-06, 09:38 PM

Well, my light engine was replaced and did get rid of the dark band. AND a free new light bulb with it as well!

New problem. I don't know if I can describe this or not. Things in darker areas, or out of focus or with less light have color or mosaic type layers with all sources (SD, HD and DVD). This was not the case prior and is very anoying. I tried all settings I could think of with no luck. Just by chance Samsung did a followup call the other day and I told them of the issue. They will be sending someone out, but as prior, it will be sometime as they need to get authorization to send someone out as we have no authorized centers within my area.

Any thoughts on what could be causing this? Gamma? Other setting in Service Menu??

Thanks,

Ted

I have had my Samsung HLR-6167w now for approximately 10 months. No issues until just recently. I noticed on the left hand side, a dark band going from left most point to just beyond where the 4:3 left box would end. Extremely noticeable in dark scenes and in some colored. I played with AVIA to adjust settings, but nothing really gets rid of it.

Anyone else see this?

Also, in regards to repair... I did not buy at sears, but did by a sears 5 year extended. Should I call Samsung since it is within the 1 year and let them handle, or go through Sears? Thoughts?

Thanks,

Ted

MANNAXMAN

10-30-06, 09:49 AM

Any thoughts on what could be causing this? Gamma? Other setting in Service Menu??
The problem you’re describing sounds very similar to what I experienced when I first got my HL-R5067W. Search this thread for Index or Index Delay. My set came with a factory setting of 50. I reduced it to 42, if I recall correctly, and the problem went away. If you have a DVD with a scene you know has this problem, try pausing the movie at that point while you adjust the Index. If you don’t have an image to view while making this adjustment, you’ll basically be playing a guessing game trying to adjust it and you’ll have to keep going in and out of the SM. If you’re not familiar with the SM, be very careful when entering it and don’t adjust anything that you don’t know what it does.

jblade

11-06-06, 05:09 PM

I posted this in another thread, but I figured here would get more attention.....
Will there be any Delay with Wii + Samsung 720p HLR???

I basically eliminated as much of the delay in my Samsung 720 HLR5667W.
I did this by running it in game mode, and turning off DNle. However, I believe there may still be some delay.

I am concerned about the delay, because I was thinking about purchasing a Nintendo Wii, and if the delay is still existant, I will likely just run it via component to VGA. However has anyone completely removed the delay, and are confident that the Wii will work smoothly? Let me know what you guys were gonna do to cope with the HLR's problem.

EDIT: Do you think there is anyway I can convince Samsung to replace my TV, as I am a heavy gamer, and the delay is to put it quite frankly, unacceptable.

danc8379

11-07-06, 10:59 AM

HD Hockey Guy

11-07-06, 11:40 AM

I apologize if this has ever been asked before, but my search turned up empty: I have the HLR4667W, build Feb 2006. I recently noticed 4 or 5 little "specks" that seem to be inside the screen. It's most noticably visible against a white background. They're not actually on the inside of the unit as I opened up the side and checked, so it appears to be in the screen itself. It's still under warranty so is this something that Samsung will fix/replace? Thanks.

if these aren't directly on the surface of the screen - it sounds like a dead pixel (frozen mirror on the chipset). If it's new, it should be covered by warranty. If older, you may still have luck - but if it's outside warranty you might have an issue.

is the speck very detailed or somewhat fuzzy around the edge? if it's very detailed, it sounds like an anomoly on teh inside of the screen surface, if fuzzy, it may still be a dead pixel, or dirt on the projection lens.

side note - i had quite a humorous incident related to that, when a large dark splotch was moving around on my screen. it darted around at first, then got smaller, then bigger, then moved all over. Finally it got very sharp in focus and i could see it was a gnat on teh inside of the set! it must have been drawn to the light from the rear of the set and went in through the fan... once inside, and trapped, it buzzed all around until i finally turned off the set and hopefully he died a uneventful death at the bottom of the set. I just prayed he wouldn't contact the bulb or lens directly and become fried gnat and glued guts to the lens thus creating a permanent spot on the screen. As of now, all's clear.

i smell a new feature... led bug zapper inside.

bear3351

11-11-06, 12:07 PM

I have a problem with my year old HLR6167W maybe you guys can help me out.

All of a sudden when I turn the TV on, it doesn't go to the TV Guide menu as it used to, but to the channel that I was watching previously. Stays on for maybe 10 seconds and it turns off, then on and off again in an endless cycle. I had to unplug the unit.

Besides calling for service is there anything else I can do?

jblade

11-11-06, 01:06 PM

DemonLos

11-13-06, 09:20 PM

denvertrakker

11-14-06, 11:05 AM

I am going to be purchasing the Onkyo HT-S790 home theatre set up to go along with my HLR-4667. I want to get surround to go with my DVR, DVD, and 360. ? I am somewhat of a newb to all this but I am thinking I just connect my component video to my TV and the audio to the Onkyo receiver. Will I need anything special to get surround with my 360?(optical cable? )Should I get better speaker wires? Any suggestions/tips to get the most out of what I have would be appreciated. Overall, I am very pleased with the set. The only problems I've had aren't anything a 5 year warranty couldn't handle ;) .

I have a 4667 and an Onkyo receiver - I also sold Oknyos at retail for four years. Each source component should be connected to the Onkyo using optical or coaxial cable - it really doesn't matter which. The speaker wires supplied with Onkyo's HTIB sets are the one weak link in an otherwise super setup. Buying thicker wires - something around 16 or 18 guage - will get more current to the speakers. You DON'T need to buy expensive stuff like Monster Cable. Any thicker speaker wire will work. I'll be happy to answer any other questions if I can.

thadius65

11-14-06, 04:21 PM

Mannaxman,

All good now. Thanks for your guidance. I told the repairman what you indicated and that helped, though not near your number of 42 initially. It was set at 62, adjusted to 52 and it was better. Gamma was at 2 and moved to zero, better yet, but not as good as pre-new Light Engine.

He installed new Light Engine (with new bulb again...woohoo). Settings of 52 were not good and it was closer to your number, now set at 44 and gamma of 0.

Thanks for the help. I learned something and so did he!

Ted

The problem you’re describing sounds very similar to what I experienced when I first got my HL-R5067W. Search this thread for Index or Index Delay. My set came with a factory setting of 50. I reduced it to 42, if I recall correctly, and the problem went away. If you have a DVD with a scene you know has this problem, try pausing the movie at that point while you adjust the Index. If you don’t have an image to view while making this adjustment, you’ll basically be playing a guessing game trying to adjust it and you’ll have to keep going in and out of the SM. If you’re not familiar with the SM, be very careful when entering it and don’t adjust anything that you don’t know what it does.

DemonLos

11-14-06, 07:25 PM

I have a 4667 and an Onkyo receiver - I also sold Oknyos at retail for four years. Each source component should be connected to the Onkyo using optical or coaxial cable - it really doesn't matter which. The speaker wires supplied with Onkyo's HTIB sets are the one weak link in an otherwise super setup. Buying thicker wires - something around 16 or 18 guage - will get more current to the speakers. You DON'T need to buy expensive stuff like Monster Cable. Any thicker speaker wire will work. I'll be happy to answer any other questions if I can.

Thanks for the reply! I feel better now knowing the Onkyo stuff works well with the 4667. Good tip on the wires. I've read Home Depot is the best place to buy speaker wires. So, do you plug your video components to the Onkyo as well as audio? Or video to TV, audio to Onkyo? I am still unsure of what the best method is. Thanks.

denvertrakker

11-15-06, 11:05 AM

Thanks for the reply! I feel better now knowing the Onkyo stuff works well with the 4667. Good tip on the wires. I've read Home Depot is the best place to buy speaker wires. So, do you plug your video components to the Onkyo as well as audio? Or video to TV, audio to Onkyo? I am still unsure of what the best method is. Thanks.

My particular Onkyo is old enough that it only has S-video, not component, nevermind HDMI! If your new Onkyo has HDMI switching, then all sources should run to the Onkyo and then back to the TV - IF and ONLY IF - the Onkyo will transcode non-HDMI inputs (such as a VCR) to HDMI. Many receivers will switch HDMI only, not transcode from other types of connection. If yours doesn't, chances are it WILL do it for component video...which is not that much different from the quality you'll get from HDMI. You'll just have to run an additional L & R audio from the Onkyo to the TV. Also, many component outs on low-to-midline receivers don't pass on-screen display to the component out, so if yours does have onscreen display you'll need to run an S-video connection (or even just composite) to see the setup/calibration stuff.

Alternatively, you can run all your video outs directly to the TV - which will give you slightly better quality, but then you'll have to switch inputs on the TV AND the receiver everytime you change sources.

As to Home Depot, I doubt their wires are anything special. Wherever you buy, just make sure you're buying audio-grade wire and not just big lamp cord. Audio-grade wire usually uses something called "rope lay" - refers to the way the wire is twisted - which is beneficial in several ways - too complicated to explain. You might want to check with a car stereo place - sometimes their speaker wire is decent at not too high a price. A dollar a foot or less is what you should shoot for. If you can find Original Monster Cable at a decent price, there's nothing wrong with it - it's just usually overpriced.

MatthewR

11-17-06, 03:44 PM

DaveFi

11-23-06, 05:59 PM

Got a PS3 yesterday. Kind of sorry I didn't wait a month or two and get a 1080p set. Now you can get them for the same price as my 5667w and with 2 HDMI ports. I have little need for firewire, cablecard, PIP, etc.:(

Oh well, I guess I'll wait for the next big thing to come along again before I upgrade. BD movies do look impressive on this set even at 720p.

kenhartsell

11-24-06, 05:33 PM

wasn't sure if i should start a new thread for this... i have a 4667w that stopped working for a while today. i turned it on and everything seemed ok.. but then the picture went out. every input i turned to had no picture, but i coudl still see the input display and the menu, so it wasn't the bulb. when i turned the input to the digital tuner with my cable card, it said constantly "updating channel list" i unplugged the set for 30 seconds, and when i plugged it back in the picture came back for like 10 seconds but then the same problem occured. i went to the tuner screen and reset the cable card and then "updating cable card firmware" came up along side the "updating channel list" message. when i switched back to one of my inputs my picture was back. has anyone had a problem like this? i can't imagine the cable card killing all the inputs but who knows with new technology

Has your problem gone away? Today my HLR 5067w turned itself off after running normally for an hour or so. The red stand by/temp lights were on. If I turned the set back on, it would stay on only a few seconds before shutting down with the same symptoms.

Has anyone else had this problem? I unplugged the set for 10 seconds but that did not help. It has been off all day, about 8 hours, and I just turned it back on. It looks OK after being on for about 10 minutes.

tacos

11-24-06, 05:40 PM

Wonder if Samsung would replace the Black outter cabinet of this tv? I was dusting my tv with pledge the other day and it seems like the color faded. I was gonna try to replace it myself but a friend was like hell I would at least call them. Just don't know what they would say.

MatthewR

11-26-06, 04:00 PM

Has your problem gone away? Today my HLR 5067w turned itself off after running normally for an hour or so. The red stand by/temp lights were on. If I turned the set back on, it would stay on only a few seconds before shutting down with the same symptoms.

Has anyone else had this problem? I unplugged the set for 10 seconds but that did not help. It has been off all day, about 8 hours, and I just turned it back on. It looks OK after being on for about 10 minutes.

my problem was the cable card... when i removed it everything went back to normal. sorry... i dunno what problem you might be having...

kenhartsell

11-26-06, 05:01 PM

my problem was the cable card... when i removed it everything went back to normal. sorry... i dunno what problem you might be having...

Yesterday when it shut down I noticed the lamp light was on for a second and then just the Stand by/temp lamp was on. The lamp light may or may not have flashed on and off more than once, I wasn't looking at it the instant the set shut off.

I pulled the set out to check the ventilation holes and the fan. Everything looked normal, however there was a sheet of paper on the floor which COULD have been lodged on the TV Stand in the back where it might have blocked the air inlet for the bulb cooling. The set has been on for about 3 hours today with no shutdowns so far.

The bulb has 1561 hours on it per setup.

drecar

11-27-06, 10:32 PM

Like many HLR owners here, I have needed to correct a few issues with my set. Most importantly was removing a green casting that I was having at low light output levels, accurate colours and setting the colour temperature to D65.

Because I am not an expert calibrator I thought having a Samsung service tech to come and make the necessary adjustments was the right move; wrong! He came and made adjustments by eye and didn't even bring any test equipment. Just like so many other previous posters here. I discovered that you should not be adjusting Index Delay or Gamma in the SM without equipment or a basic understanding of what these items control. The tech had me pause a frame in Bourne Supremacy to make his adjustment to Index Delay. At the time it looked better but watching HD programming later that night was horrible.

I spent hours Googling as much as I could to learn how to get rid of my green cast problem. That led me to a few very informative articles about colour and Spyder TV colorimeter.

After buying the colorimetr and appropiate software I finally braved entering the Service Menu to make my adjustments knowing full well that if I screwed my set up it was my $2000 mistake.

I made mainly three adjustments. I adjusted the Index Delay to display red. I adjusted the gamma setting to emulate a CRT's gamma histogram. I specified the primary and secondary colours that I wanted in the CCA after measuring the colour coordinates the set was displaying. These adjustment gave me amazing colours and a better level of detail but didn't fix my green problem. When I adjusted lamp boost from 15 to 20 it was like I had a new tv. Watching Law and Order was always a problem but now the green was gone with a lot less banding, the picture was so clear. The picture is just bloody amazing and oh my the level of true detail just rocks. Most of Jay Leno's suits are pin striped and you can even see the texture at some camera angles or Boune Supremacy in the opening bedroom scene is nice and clear, no more green. I can tell you the feeling was just like when I first saw HD. Now I am rewatching peviously viewed programs and being amazed.

bnwbass

11-28-06, 12:27 PM

Which product did you use, Spyder TV or Spyder Pro? They are very different in cost.
Bnw

drecar

11-28-06, 02:38 PM

Spyder2Pro

trueimage

11-28-06, 03:05 PM

I have a 4664 set. I currently have an HTPC connected via VGA and it works great.

I am about to build a new HTPC and there will be no VGA connection, only DVI and SVideo.

I want to connect the HTPC via a DVI-D Dual Link to HDMI cable. How will this look for me? Am I now going to have many problems in calibrating the TV for 1:1 and colour etc? This card is HDCP compliant, and a major reason for the upgrade (HD DVD, Blu-ray etc).

Any input would be great.

smithcort

11-29-06, 02:02 PM

I'm new to this site and new to my sammy. I have some probably rather stupid questions, but like I said I'm new to all of this. I ran my dishnetwork cable right into the cable input on the tv. Some people on this thread claim to get hd by doing that even though they aren't subscribed to it, is that true??? I'm also having trouble calibrating the tv as some channels look fine in sd, while others not so much. Anything anyone can enlighten me on would be awesome, thanks. :o

jjost

11-30-06, 12:40 PM

I have an HL-R5067W with a cable card. I have been thinking of buying a Mitsubishi HS-HD2000U DVHS deck. Has anyone been able to record HDTV to the HD2000U over the R5067W's firewire connection (D-Net)? In particular, I would like to time shift the recordings. Apparently, I would have to use the TVGOS function in the R5067W. Has anyone gotten that to work with the HD2000U? Thanks. --John

forcedsquint

11-30-06, 03:52 PM

JonDotCom

11-30-06, 04:10 PM

I have a chance to buy a floor model Samsung HL-R5067WX for $950 with a free 2 year extended warranty.
I guess I'm struggling a bit because I don't know if I should get the "older" model or if it would be best to get a newer model like the HL-S5086W from Best Buy and pay a few hundred dollars more + cost of extended warranty. Has the technology really improved and/or changed enough to justify the cost of the "newer" model?
Thanks.

Sounds like a great deal. That set is digital cable ready meaning you can get HD on cable without a set-top box. Many of the HL-S DLPs don't have that. It probably also has PiP and TvGuide which I like, again things many of the HL-S sets don't. I'd definitely get that one if that were the size I were looking for.
linky:
http://www.samsung.com/Products/TV/ArchivedTelevisions/HLR5067WAXXAA.asp

What do you intend to use the tv for? If for gaming, I hear the VGA is the best connection to eliminate lag.

Enjoy

mingus

12-01-06, 10:49 AM

I'm confused. Is the HL-S5086W a good bang for the buck 50" set? Mostly for SD DVD viewing, some OTA HDTV I guess.

DNAtester

12-02-06, 01:00 AM

Pye in LA

12-03-06, 06:08 PM

I have a situation that appears in dark scenes (or when the screen is black between scenes) where the left 6-8 inches of the screen is lighter than the right side of the screen. There is a distinctive vertical line, on one side it is lighter. I just started to notice this, so it is something that is new. I have had my 5067W since Feb. 2006.

It sounds for all the world like your dNIE (or Dnie or dNie or whatever odd capitalization pattern Samsung chose) demonstration has been activated somehow.
For your sake, I hope that's the issue. Turn it off (it's a menu option).

brettwf

12-05-06, 01:34 PM

I am hoping someone else has seen this........

I have a situation that appears in dark scenes (or when the screen is black between scenes) where the left 6-8 inches of the screen is lighter than the right side of the screen. There is a distinctive vertical line, on one side it is lighter. I just started to notice this, so it is something that is new. I have had my 5067W since Feb. 2006.

Has anyone else experienced this or might know what this is and how to fix it? Any help from you pros would be greatly appreciated!

Someone else posted same problem and had theirs serviced. I have same problem w/ my 4266W and called Samsung to get it serviced. They recommended unplugging and resetting TV by holding the power button for 30 seconds. That did not work so waiting for local service center to call. If you try to reset, that will change all your customized settings according to Samsung. So you may want to record your settings before trying.

Brett

wickdisco

12-05-06, 09:46 PM

I am hoping someone else has seen this........

I have a situation that appears in dark scenes (or when the screen is black between scenes) where the left 6-8 inches of the screen is lighter than the right side of the screen. There is a distinctive vertical line, on one side it is lighter. I just started to notice this, so it is something that is new. I have had my 5067W since Feb. 2006.

Has anyone else experienced this or might know what this is and how to fix it? Any help from you pros would be greatly appreciated!
Hello, I just started noticing the same thing on my HLR-5067W (left side of the screen has a darker 6-8 inch bar running down the screen). I noticed it the other night while watching the movie Doom on my HD-DVD player (most of the movie scenes are quite dark).

I did some testing and shut the lights off in my living room and just turned my HD cable box off so the screen would show a completely black image. The bar is definately there.

Anyway, I never noticed it before and was wondering if this is normal or something I should get looked at by a Samsung Tech... I bought the TV less than a year ago. Did Samsung tell you anything about your issue?

I have attached an that I made to illustrate what this kind of looks like on my Samsung.

drecar

12-06-06, 07:24 PM

I have exactly the same thing on a HLR5064W. The Samsung tech claimed that he could not see it 3 weeks ago. I'll be calling him back now that someone else has the same issue and I will make a strong point of them fixing it. I've been waiting for it to get worst so that the tech could see it. Please keep us posted guys about how Samsung resolves this issue for you.

thadius65

12-08-06, 02:01 PM

drecar

12-09-06, 06:13 PM

Hey,

The adjustment that I found to improve my picture at low light levels was lamp boost in the service menu. I took my setting from 15 to 25 and all the discoloration went away in dark scenes.

marshcat

12-10-06, 11:27 AM

What do you guys think of the OTA tuner in these TV's?

Are they as good as a solid set top box?

MANNAXMAN

12-11-06, 10:39 AM

This brings us to current time. In High-Def, bright sources, this unit provides a very nice picture (sports type). Any source (HD or SD) that has dark or unfocused scenes, there is a tendency for this “mosaic” or layered look to appear and it ruins an otherwise positive experience.
Have you tried adjusting the Index Delay in the SM?

brettwf

12-11-06, 01:13 PM

What do you guys think of the OTA tuner in these TV's?

Are they as good as a solid set top box?

Marshcat,

I have my local cable signal running directly into the tuners of my 4226W and my LST-3510a. I have noticed that the picture is brighter thru the TV tuner than the external tuner. I have not looked into why yet. Maybe something as simple as different settings or the external signal has a component cable run of over 20 ft. The Samsung tuner seems to pick up all digital channels whether in the clear or scrambled. The 3510a tuner picks up less scrambled channels. I usually use it over the TV tuner as it is easier to navigate btw HD/digital channels.

Brett

thadius65

12-13-06, 12:08 PM

Yes, I adjusted the Index Delay, but with only limited success.

drecar

12-14-06, 06:08 PM

Did adjusting lamp boost 5 to 10 values higher have any effect ?

drecar

12-14-06, 08:04 PM

Man, am I nerveous after thadius65 story about his light engine replacement. I called Universal TV today and they said Samsung told them to replace the light engine. Should be a simply proces but you never really know about the competence of the tech, however it is what they trained to do.

maandrew

12-14-06, 09:44 PM

I picked up an "open box" HLR5667W this week. My first question is regarding the lamp life. The service menu lists it at 7856h. This seem like an awful lot for a customer return (like they told me). Is it possible that this reading has somehow been corrupted?

I've got another few weeks to decide if I want to keep it. The price was pretty good even if I have to buy a service plan to cover a lamp that might die any day.

In the meantime I'll be trying to aleviate the green cast and difficulty this set seems to have with shadows....

mankie

12-14-06, 11:07 PM

had anybody made this work? my r4667w never shows any guide information. I had it about half year. I only use an antena to receive local FTA HD broadcasting, no cable or settop boxes.

danc8379

12-15-06, 03:51 PM

had anybody made this work? my r4667w never shows any guide information. I had it about half year. I only use an antena to receive local FTA HD broadcasting, no cable or settop boxes.

No, it's never worked for me either. I have Directv, but have a set of rabbit ears hooked directly to the TV also. I've tried going through the set-up many many times and I can never get guide info to populate.

danc8379

12-15-06, 03:54 PM

maandrew

12-16-06, 04:02 PM

I know it's somewhere in this thread, but can you tell me where to find the lamp life in the service menu? It's been awhile since I went into the menu, but I remember I couldn't find lamp life. Thanks.

I'll go ahead a summarize since I've had similar problems finding information in this thread. There's so much in here that it becomes difficult to find precise answers.

Opening service mode: Mute-1-8-2-PowerOn

Arrow down to "Option"

On my set the fifth entry is "Lamp Life" It shows 7857h on my set.

Even if this was a display model that's 13 hours a day for the past 20 months. Isn't the average bulb life shorter than this?

stev1bp

12-17-06, 03:48 PM

MANNAXMAN

12-18-06, 10:53 AM

I searched the thread and wasn't able to find a good color setting for the HLR4667W. I noticed watching a movie the other day that black is more like a gray. What's the thread # or what is a good color setting for the HLR4667W?
Unfortunately, every set is different. What may be a good setting for someone else's set may not work for yours. If you don't want to pay to have your set professionally calibrated, your best bet is to use a calibration disc such as AVIA or DVE (Digital Video Essentials).

stev1bp

12-18-06, 11:40 AM

Unfortunately, every set is different. What may be a good setting for someone else's set may not work for yours. If you don't want to pay to have your set professionally calibrated, your best bet is to use a calibration disc such as AVIA or DVE (Digital Video Essentials).

Anyone know anyone good in Dallas to do a calibration of this unit?

thadius65

12-19-06, 07:59 PM

Similar to my issue. I have now been through 3 light engines (including original) on my HL-R6167W. I am growing very inpatient. Here is an update I just sent to Samsung:

****************
I took delivery of my Samsung HL-R6167W (serial number xxxx) in September of 2005. My initial experience with the product was extremely positive. I selected this unit due to research on many sites including avsforum.com which provides user insight on many A/V platforms. I shared much about my experience as well as read others.

My setup is the HL-R6167W along with a Integra A/V Receiver, Paradigm 5.1 speaker setup, Samsung DVD-HD950, Xbox 360 and Scientific Atlantic cable/DVR set top for SD and HD signal (720p via component).

Sometime around July/Aug of 2005, I began to notice a line on the left hand side of the screen, about 6” in and running top to bottom. This progressively got worse and I called it in to Samsung support on 8/06/2006 (Samsung Ticket # xxxx). Due to my location (xxxxx), there was no local authorized Samsung repair center, so due to policy it had to go for approval which was said to take from 7-14 days. Eventually the ticket made its way to Electronics Unlimited. They received the parts and scheduled for delivery/install. Light engine was replaced and the problem was corrected. Electronics Unlimited were great to deal with in regards to communications, timeliness and overall customer service.

Several days past and I noticed something different. I re-calibrated as I did previously and still noticed a problem. In dark scenes or background, out of focus areas, there was a mosaic type effect. This was never noticeable on my previous light engine. I continued to attempt to adjust, reviewed many different sources, but all exhibited the same issue. Samsung contacted me to see if all went well with the previous repair. I indicated that the original problem was corrected, but this new issue had arose. He proceeded to escalate to support. I was told that it would take 7-14 due to approval as before.

Electronics Unlimited (EU) contacted me and indicated they had part in hand and scheduled a trip. I was a bit surprised that they had a part as I never provided any further detail about the issue, nor did a technician ever discuss with me. EU indicated it was another light engine.

To assist with troubleshooting, I had saved the High Def (720p) programs that I saw the issue so we had a constant known bad for our comparisons/testing.

The part was installed and the issue did not seem much better while viewing the test samples. EU technician went into the service menu and made some adjustments. It got somewhat better, but still not to the picture quality as the original set pre-line problem. I told the technician I would monitor it over a period of time to see if acceptable.

This brings us to current time. In High-Def, bright sources, this unit provides a very nice picture (sports type). Any source (HD or SD) that has dark or unfocused scenes, there is a tendency for this “mosaic” or layered look to appear and it ruins an otherwise positive experience. Also, I am no experiencing either a very noisy color wheel or fan. It has a constant hum that can be heard even at normal listening levels and especially during quite scenes. Intermittently it also makes a buzz/grinding noise. I selected this unit for a movie like experience. It initially provided that, but no longer. Looking back I am wondering if I should have even addressed the initial line issue. Had I thought there was a chance of a degraded picture and distracting noise, I would not have done it. Three light engines later and I am still experiencing display issues and also noise issues.

I am at a loss and very displeased with the ongoing issues and degraded experience with my unit. I would appreciate options that would ensure that all current and chances of repeated issues be resolved.

Thank you for your time.

**********************

Let's see what happens next...

Ted

Sorry for the long post....

All I can say is simply ....... WOW!

Anyone that bashes Samsung for customer service either got the wrong person or did not approach correctly. As per some on this board providing guidance to contact ECR department, I did as described in the above post. Monday was the 5th business day, which is their SLA for getting back to you. I called at about 4:55PM to try to catch them and I did. Explained I still had not heard back in 5 days, ECR rep appologized, read the letter and indicated that she wanted to talk to the technician. She promptly called me back at 6:30PM to say she got in touch and left a message, but did not want to leave me without info.. Excellent. She said their were two options based on the tech conversation. 1 - an attempt to repair again if he felt it was possible, or 2 - a NEW TV!

Today came and I got a message from the same ECR rep (nice continuity). She indicated that they had decided on a swap. I called and got through to another ECR rep and she took my information. I told her (based on technical details provided here) that I did not care what I got as long as it had "at least" what my HL-R6167w had. She put me on hold and came back to tell me that my HL-S6188W would be at my house in 10-14 days.... Unreal customer service and an awesome company that stands behind their product 150%. TV that was 15months old (just under the 12+3month warrant) replaced with top end DLP of today technology. WOOHOO.

Minor problem that I do not mind dealing with -- TR61X2 stand will not fit. Hell, I will build one and enjoy!

Thanks for all the help and guidance now and over the years. You have all helped greatly!

Samsung -- Way to go and a loyal customer has been created. I just took my brother to BestBuy to purchase a 42" Sammy DLP.

Tips to others -- Read this board front to back. Keep names, dates of contacts with vendor (Samsung) of problem and discussions. Keep all documents, paperwork of product and conversations. Phone, email and fax information. Keep them honest on SLAs (service level agreements). Keep professional, but indicate dissatisfaction and set expectations.

Thanks! :)

Ted

Belcherwm

12-20-06, 02:17 PM

wickdisco

12-21-06, 11:00 AM

Hello,

Does anyone have a list of the HLR5067w service menu items and what each one actually does. I've been playing around with the sub contrast and sub brightness levels in the DNIe menu and my TV looks better than I think it ever has before. I played around with other settings in the service menu but always changed them back to what they were originally because I didn't know what some of these do. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Chad

fog80

12-22-06, 11:30 AM

Sorry for the long post....

All I can say is simply ....... WOW!

Anyone that bashes Samsung for customer service either got the wrong person or did not approach correctly. As per some on this board providing guidance to contact ECR department, I did as described in the above post. Monday was the 5th business day, which is their SLA for getting back to you. I called at about 4:55PM to try to catch them and I did. Explained I still had not heard back in 5 days, ECR rep appologized, read the letter and indicated that she wanted to talk to the technician. She promptly called me back at 6:30PM to say she got in touch and left a message, but did not want to leave me without info.. Excellent. She said their were two options based on the tech conversation. 1 - an attempt to repair again if he felt it was possible, or 2 - a NEW TV!

Today came and I got a message from the same ECR rep (nice continuity). She indicated that they had decided on a swap. I called and got through to another ECR rep and she took my information. I told her (based on technical details provided here) that I did not care what I got as long as it had "at least" what my HL-R6167w had. She put me on hold and came back to tell me that my HL-S6188W would be at my house in 10-14 days.... Unreal customer service and an awesome company that stands behind their product 150%. TV that was 15months old (just under the 12+3month warrant) replaced with top end DLP of today technology. WOOHOO.

Minor problem that I do not mind dealing with -- TR61X2 stand will not fit. Hell, I will build one and enjoy!

Thanks for all the help and guidance now and over the years. You have all helped greatly!

Samsung -- Way to go and a loyal customer has been created. I just took my brother to BestBuy to purchase a 42" Sammy DLP.

Tips to others -- Read this board front to back. Keep names, dates of contacts with vendor (Samsung) of problem and discussions. Keep all documents, paperwork of product and conversations. Phone, email and fax information. Keep them honest on SLAs (service level agreements). Keep professional, but indicate dissatisfaction and set expectations.

Thanks! :)

Ted

that is awesome news! I'm glad I went with a sammy dlp.

garydan76

12-25-06, 11:28 AM

I just started having the same problem with my HLR5667w. A grey bar on the left side of the screen. I am really pissed. Its just over a year old. So likely, no warranty.

thadius65

12-25-06, 12:28 PM

garydan76,

Not sure if you knew this or not, but if you originally registered online, you got an extra 3 months on your 12 month warranty.

Ted

garydan76

12-25-06, 07:43 PM

I bought my tv on 9/13/2005, so even with the 3 month extension, I'm out of warranty. Any idea on how much a fix to this problem will run?

us338386

12-25-06, 10:48 PM

garydan et al -

In theory if you purchased this with a credit card you get automatic one year warranty extension through MC/Visa/Amex (NOT discover). They will extend your warranty up to one full year on any purchase used with their cards. You have to contact MC/Visa directly (not the bank, ie. citibank, BofA, etc.)

Essentially you can either have it fixed and send the bill (for reimbursement) to VISA, or get an estimate ahead of time and they will send you a check (or if too expensive TOTAL it, and provide full refund).

Their programs are pretty similar, but remarkably very few people know about them or actually use them.

Unfortunately, I am a new user and cannot link yet. go to notebookreview dotter commer and look up thread 64951. or search for a thread titled: NOTE: Extending warranties via Credit Cards. All the details on how it works are there.

merry xmas

John

disclaimer - I have never had to use myself

garydan76

12-26-06, 11:17 AM

Got myself a great christmas present today! I called Samsung and they said my warranty isn't up until February.

I bought it in September 2005, and according to them the 12 month warranty wasn't up until November (???), and then since I registered online I got 3 more months. What a relief this is.

Any tips on what to discuss with the service rep?

thadius65

12-26-06, 11:20 AM

garydan,

I am by no means an expert, but my experience was positive. Do a seach on my ID. You will see that the "line" issue, if the same as yours, was fixed with a light engine replacement. It was the subsequent issues with that and the next light engine replacement issues that got me a new TV. I would never expect that on first issue.

Good luck. Pay close attention to PQ post light engine replacement.

Ted

samgovol

12-29-06, 11:18 PM

Can someone post their calibration settings? I have played with them, but I am not satisfied. Thanks!

UNSCleric

01-01-07, 02:21 PM

I got my Samsung 5667w 56" TV at Circuit City last March, and for the past month or two, get this odd flickering. It's like the TV isn't getting enough power or something, but nothing really has changed. It even does it when I turn the brightness all the way down so it's not like it's not handling brighter pictures or something. I can't find anything about this online either. It's a really annoying flickering, but it's very random. It'll do it on and off, or not do it at all for several hours, and then do it for an hour straight, then stop, etc. I'm nervous about calling a tech in (I have a 4 yr warranty at CC) and having the TV not do the flickering when they are here.

I've never messed around in the service menu, except to turn my index delay to 42 instead of 46 back when I got it... maybe there is something in there that can help it?

Update: I also want to say that it can't really just be classified as just a flickering. It's kind of like a vibrating-ish flicker. I'm thinking about recording it with my digital camera in case I can't get it to do it when/if a tech is here.

hasan

01-01-07, 07:07 PM

UNSCleric

01-01-07, 08:02 PM

Thank you. I think I'm going to call Circuit City and re-schedule a tech to come out (I had before, but then canceled when the TV stopped flickering completely for days). When I called last time and told them my problem, they asked if the light on the front of the TV had come on (the lamp light). If I tell them yes, do they just mail me a new bulb and I send them the old one, or does a tech still have to come out?

The reason I ask is that I would rather just do it myself, than having to wait however long it would take for a tech, and then have to try and be awake when he gets here (I work overnights, and it sucks).

Since I have 3,000 hours on the bulb, that seems likely that it's the bulb. I've never had a problem with it until now, and nothing has changed around the TV or anything, so it has to be something inside that is doing it.

UNSCleric

01-03-07, 11:15 AM

hasan

01-03-07, 05:55 PM

I just went into the service menu and turned my LAMP SYNC to "Pass" instead of Pulse. I also changed th Lamp Control to Always (It had been Dynamic).

It looks better and the pulsing/flickering seems to have stopped. Not sure. What do those two settings I changed do?

You're a braver man than me Gunga Din! I have no idea what you changed.

I checked my lamp a little bit ago and I have 2969 hours on it. Nothing funny about its operation yet, but I'm sure the lamp is getting old. It could be any time now, for me. Fortunately, I have a spare sitting here waiting. Hopefully, I'll make it a full year before it needs to be replaced. I think I got the TV in April of last year.

Diplomat

01-04-07, 07:39 PM

Ok, I did a search and could not find out how to access the service menu. Can someone please explain the process.

hasan

01-04-07, 08:21 PM

Ok, I did a search and could not find out how to access the service menu. Can someone please explain the process.

With the TV powered off:

Mute, 1,8,2 Power On

Hit each key discretely.

If your TV is already on:

Power off
Quickly (less than 3 sec)
Mute,1,8,2, Power On

You will see "Factory Loading" or some such

When you are through with the SM, turn the power off, and back on again, within 3 sec.

I say within 3 sec in each case, to preven the lamp from having to "restrike", which eats up lamp life.

Don't make any changes to the SM if you don't know what you are doing, and make sure to write down the values of any item you are going to change BEFORE you make the change...there is no way to get back to "default"

For Lamp Hours:

Cursor down to Options, hit Enter

Look down the tree and you will see the hours on your lamp listed.

This is for an HL-R5667W

UNSCleric

01-09-07, 09:56 AM

Does anybody know what the changes I made do? From my post a couple up.

rocky01

01-09-07, 10:36 AM

IMO don't even think about making changes through the service menu unless you have taken time to read through all relevant portions of this thread, as arduous as it seems. The changes are not easily undone without you having marked your defaults, are sure as heck not covered by warranty and apparently very few are capable of and disposed to help if you ignore sage advise to arm yourself with sensible precautions described herein first before mashing buttons in a frenzy. Newbies should notice that free ranging experts don't check in daily.

Still this forum is good resource, and welcome!

UNSCleric

01-09-07, 10:43 AM

The two changes I made about a week ago make the TV look so much better than it used to. I'm just wondering if it drains the bulb life more or anything like that.

lamonsasa

01-09-07, 10:54 PM

hey guys is there 1 or more changes u could do in the service menu that would improve the picture quality? i have never accessed that menu or anything so yea, or is there some good option to turn on there ?

cheers

Milmanias

01-10-07, 08:04 AM

People have turned off DNIE. I haven't dared touch anything, but I'm happy with the pq as it is.

UNSCleric

01-10-07, 08:39 AM

I didn't even know you could turn off DNIE. What good comes from that usually?

lamonsasa

01-10-07, 08:39 AM

jetz9335

01-11-07, 04:18 AM

My Samsung HLR5667W started makes loud noise when turned on and screen is blinking fast like CRT monitor's 60 Hz refresh rate.

I guess that's problem with color wheel. Does anyone know how much it will cost for service?

Thanks.

brettwf

01-11-07, 09:26 AM

i dont understand, isnt DNIE should give a better picture man? samsung is bragging about it so much and it seems to be the main thing about their TVs, whats so bad about it? my picture for HD is awesome..

As a test, play the opening scene of Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire after you have calibrated your TV. Can you clearly see the wall of skulls, the tombstones, and the snake crawling btw them? I could not on my 4266W. All I could see was something moving around on the screen. I turned off DNIE in the service menu per settings that were posted on this thread. I could then clearly see all details in the scene but my greens (moss on the tombstones) had a glowing quality to them. I then used the suggestion from another post to turn my green level down a bit in the service menu to fix the glowing green problem.

We were pleased with the PQ with just calibrating the TV thru the user menu and was ecstatic w/ the PQ after turning off DNIE. Another tweak that I did in the user menu was to adjust the color levels. Using the AVIA calibration disk, I was able to simulate calibrating the tint even though it is not available thru component connections. I believe that it was the green level and increased it to 7 but then backed it off to 3 once we watched a movie.

I have posted all my settings and search on my name should pull them up.

Brett

sequoia

01-11-07, 07:23 PM

Hello, I am brand-new to this forum although I've had my HLR4667W for a year and a half, since spring/summer of 2005.

For quite a while, on regular "analog" cable channels, sometimes when viewing a picture that has a solid-color background (especially it seems yellows or greens) I can see a pattern of parallel vertical lines running through the entire patch of solid color. It is pretty distracting, but not enough to do anything about it. I just did a search of this board and saw nothing, and I have done some searches in the past.

Has anyone else experienced this, and if so, what is causing it? The HDTV picture is just stunning, this only happens on analog (SD) channels.

Also I'm curious if there is a consensus on optimum settings for the HLRxx67W series (brightness, contrast, etc.). I just ordered an Oppo 981HD DVD player, which may arrive tonight - and the one thing I am very concerned about is the macroblocking issue which is supposedly pretty serious on DLP HDTVs unless you get your black levels just right. I don't have DVE or Avia discs, I was just going to try starting with the THX Optimizer and see how much progress I make with that. I'm a little bit scared to go into the service menu, mostly because I'm concerned I'll void my 4-year service contract.

Anyway, any input on any of this would be helpful. Thanks.

mrodger

01-11-07, 08:08 PM

I have an HLR-4266W that I will have had for a year next month. I have an extended warranty from Best Buy on the TV. The warranty states that it covers a yearly cleaning on the TV. I would like to take advantage of this since it is included in the warranty. I've kept the exterior wiped down with a micro fiber dusting cloth and the set is still working and looking great.

I was wondering if the cleaning is something that is really necessary or would be very beneficial to the set. I am a bit worried that having someone clean the set may cause damage or introduce problems. Has anyone else had any experience with cleanings or maybe could offer some advice on this.

Thanks.

22velocity

01-11-07, 09:37 PM

I have a hlr4667w,Samsung DLP that I have a problem with that is driving me up the wall. I have different sound levels on different channels. I have tried to equalize them using the auto sound setting in the setup menu with no luck. I am playing the set thru a Sony Receiver connected to Polk audio speakers. I thought maybe the settings control on the Time warner remote control would help but changing it makes no difference. Your Help and suggestions will be appreciated. Frank

airchip

01-11-07, 11:03 PM

Hi, This is my first post on this forum. I'm having a strange problem that started a couple of weeks ago. We started seeing horizontal bands of color across the screen. They were approx. 1/8 the height of the screen and would alternate between blue, green, and red. Sometimes there would be multiple bands of varying colors and sometimes they would mix together. But they weren't just color bands overlaying the picture. It was as if the image in the bands had an effect that made everything look like a photo negative but with the occurring color. Then they started to merge and pretty soon, the whole screen would look like a photo negative but with multiple colors. It would sometimes go away, other times the severity of the distortion would vary. Now, it seems that the effect is occurring almost constantly and usually to a very severe degree where the picture is very hard to see. Every once and awhile however, the picture will totally clear up for a very short while then revert back to the problem, It's really strange and I can't find anything on this anywhere. Anyone have any ideas based on this hard to describe problem? Thanks much.

itsme166

01-12-07, 02:06 AM

This may be a dumb question, but before shelling out hundreds of dollars for a cinemavu...

Has anyone tried hooking up an external hard drive with firewire to their Samsung sets to see what happens?

I'm pretty certain nothing would happen because there is no software or identifier file (like an xml file that would define what the device connected to the tv is) on the hard drive that the tv could look at to identify it, which leads me to my next dumb question.

Does anyone know of any software that can be loaded/installed onto an external hard drive to make the Samsung recognize it as a dvr because that's what the Cinemavu essentially is....an external hard drive with a firewire connection with some sort of software installed.

UNSCleric

01-12-07, 12:17 PM

Just for some background, I was the guy who was having the weird dim flickering on his TV. My lamp has 3,000 hours on it, and it was annoying me, so I went into the service menu and changed the lamp sync to "Pass" instead of the default "Pulse" and then change the Lamp Control to "Always" instead of "Dynamic"

The flickering went away, and the picture is better than ever. My only concern is that it's going to like, shred the life of the bulb for some reason, I don't know what these two settings do, but for the past week or two, I've run the TV several hours a day like always nad had no problems.

I call Circuit City to get a replacement bulb lined up, and they said I can still get one from Samsung, so I called them and within 2 minutes, they have one being mailed to me within 7-14 days. and then I can still get one from Circuit City within the next 3 years, that is awesome. I might try switching back to the default lamp controls when I get the new bulb just to see if it still flickers, but I think I'll go back to the settings I have now, cause it looks so much better.

If anyone knows the details on the Lamp Sync and Lamp Control settings, that would be great.

drecar

01-13-07, 10:50 AM

My new light engine was replaced yesterday. The tech had to spend sometime aligning the image on the screen. It does not appear that I have to do a major recalibration.

I now have to solve posterization and enter the CCA cooridinates of this new engine. I was so preoccupied with getting the old lamp that I forgot to check the label of the new engine. I gues here in Canada they won't give the lamp.

sequoia

01-14-07, 11:43 PM

Hello all, I searched this board for an answer to a question, but found nothing that exactly answers it. I've been tweaking my HLR4667W lately in conjunction with a new Oppo DVD player with HDMI, trying to minimize macroblocking (with some success). I ventured into the service menu today for the very first time - turned of DNIe first, based on some posts here - but also wondering if there is a way to reduce or eliminate overscan on the display. I found the place where you can move the picture horizontaly and vertically, so I did that to center the picture. But there is still some overscan, not sure what the percentage is but I'd like to play around with that too if possible. Is there a way to do this? This is not related to macroblocking on the DVD player, I'd just like as much of the picture to show up on my screen as possible instead of losing it around the edges. Thanks.

sequoia

01-15-07, 12:44 AM

Hello all again,

This message is somewhat related to the one above. As I mentioned, I disabled DNIe in the service menu per instructions provided here (took all values down to zero except for some that had to do with red, green & blue which I left alone. Now I have started noticing on HD channels that sometimes a very faint horizontal or vertical "clear line" appears for just a millisecond every once in a while, about 6 inches from the outside edge of the picture. It could even be a faint rectangle where the picture is just slightly disrupted for a moment. It's almost invisible, and disappears quickly - but it is there. If I can't figure out which DNIe value causes this to happen, I'll probably just enable DNIe again. But if anyone knows what this is and which value to isolate in order to fix it, please let me know. Thanks.

Yahooligan

01-15-07, 01:55 AM

garydan76

01-16-07, 11:43 AM

Does a new light engine always come with a new bulb? When I first talked to the service rep, I asked him this, and he said no. I've read in this forum that it did. I want to make sure that he doesn't screw me over by taking out the new bulb from the light engine, and replacing it with my old one. I'm sorry... I don't trust anyone :)

HD Hockey Guy

01-16-07, 12:28 PM

Hi all. I posted this issue in a different thread, but thought I'd put it here as well. Hope y'all don't mind. If I can't get it figured out by Tuesday (Holiday tomorrow), I'll just call Samsung and see what they want to do.

I'm having a strange problem with my Samsung HL-R5667W and I want to avoid having the tech come back again (read: Wait 4-5 days).

I had a problem with 2 stuck mirrors, so I called Samsung and they had a tech come out 6 days later, he ended up replacing the light engine with a new one.

Everything was working fine, or so I thought. Tonight (He came yesterday) I decided to watch a movie and my HDMI input isn't working because HDCP is either disabled or not set up. My DVD player doesn't output audio/video through it but does send a signal. If I hook up my 8300HD cable DVR via HDMI it gives me an error.

"Your HDTV does not support HDCP. Please disconnect the HDMI connector and use the component connection to continue watching TV."

I went into service mode but didn't see anything obvious about HDCP and I wouldn't have thought replacing the light engine would have caused HDCP to fail.

Does anyone have any clues? If all else fails, I'll call Samsung and have them send someone out...again.

Thanks!

I've had intermittent HDCP issues as you've described when trying to fire up my SA8300 HD box as well. It seems to have been a thing of the past though, as since the firmware update (automatic through rebooting the machine) fixes this.

Try unplugging your box for a few minutes, then plug back in and reboot. I always turn on the tv first, then the box - and I seem to have no problems when doing this.

When I do get a problem - it was usually after accidently turning off the cable box, then back on - or turning on the cable box then turning on the tv after....

If you still have problems, I'd get a new box.

GeeBee2005

01-16-07, 12:34 PM

Yahooligan

01-16-07, 07:51 PM

I've had intermittent HDCP issues as you've described when trying to fire up my SA8300 HD box as well. It seems to have been a thing of the past though, as since the firmware update (automatic through rebooting the machine) fixes this.

Try unplugging your box for a few minutes, then plug back in and reboot. I always turn on the tv first, then the box - and I seem to have no problems when doing this.

When I do get a problem - it was usually after accidently turning off the cable box, then back on - or turning on the cable box then turning on the tv after....

If you still have problems, I'd get a new box.

Thanks. I wish it was just a problem with the cable box. The problem is on the TV end, nothing connected via HDMI which uses HDCP will work. HDCP is "broken" ever since the light engine was replaced. :( My DVD player is what I use via HDMI, I simply connected the cable box to try and determine where the problem was and that's when the HDCP error popped up.

trueimage

01-17-07, 10:25 AM

Selling an HL-R4664 (CDN Ver of 4667, 46" 720p)...

How much should I expect to get? Thinking of upgrading

jdogg125

01-17-07, 04:10 PM

Let me describe my problem...I had my cable box setup into one of my component inputs. I plugged in the hdmi cable i had just picked up to my tv and then my cable box. The picture on the input went to "blah blah No signal". I switched to hdmi and there it was...good as gold. However, when I unplugged the cable box and plugged in my xbox via component or my dvd player via component I get a the no signal message. Has anyone else experienced this? I spoke to samsung support and they basically said that the 'main board' will need to be replaced. I didn't grab the warranty...shoot me now...so 1 of my component inputs is shot and estimate is 900, which I know isn't worth it. Wondering if anyone has experienced the same & a quick fix <praying>? I'm planning on getting a receiver so I think I'll defiinitely get one with a few component inputs etc...

Thanks.

Milmanias

01-18-07, 07:35 AM

Gamespot had some component switches for $20. They weren't powered but it would help until you get a receiver. This was a while ago, though.

Main board...$900...wow

Yahooligan

01-18-07, 07:39 PM

$900 is a bit much. Not even a new light engine is that expensive, at least for my HL-R5667W.

Looks like it would be one of these guys...

BP94-02049E ASSY PCB MISC-ANALOG HLR5067W1X,L64C,L6 $172.28
BP94-02084A ASSY PCB MISC-DIGITAL HLR4667W1X,L64C,L6 $398.78

I'm sure you already did this, but make sure all the connectors are fully plugged in. I had a "problem" with my component inputs not working the other day after trying to isloate my HDMI issue. Turns out the lower component cable came partially unplugged and that's the one it uses to check for a signal.

midnightman

01-21-07, 12:11 AM

I connect a laptop to the TV using D-sub cable
I try 1024x768 60Hz and 800x600 60Hz, but always get "not supported mode" on the TV. I also tried both 32 bit and 16 bit color, but no luck. :(

Anyone have any idea why?

JonDotCom

01-21-07, 12:58 AM

tacos

01-21-07, 12:40 PM

I believe my bulb is about to die. How do you go about getting in touch with Samsung for a replacement? Do they come out and install the new one or what? Do they send you a new one. I don't even know if I have my receipt for the tv. However, I know I registered it online.

MYBUDDA40

01-21-07, 12:44 PM

I'm having a problem with my HLR4266W that started 3 weeks ago. The tv is 1 year old w/ 2500 hours on bulb. The tv worked perfectly until this problem started. I have a Dark Green casting on shadow areas, especialy in dark scenes. Faces look almost mosaic. The problem seems to be getting worse, now shadows are a Dark Green/Purple look.Should I have a Tech look at this? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

midnightman

01-21-07, 05:30 PM

Is that the same as VGA? Try renaming the inpu to PC and try adjusting the size...
Yes, that’s VGA Analog
I tried both your suggestions and still got “Not Supported Mode”. The choices for picture size are still 16:9, Zoom1, Zoom2, and 4:3 (no WidePC or WideTV). The Setup menu for PC is still disabled (grayed out). I can’t believe it is this difficult. :confused: I probably should give up now…
Thank you anyway.

HD Hockey Guy

01-22-07, 04:18 PM

Yes, that’s VGA Analog
I tried both your suggestions and still got “Not Supported Mode”. The choices for picture size are still 16:9, Zoom1, Zoom2, and 4:3 (no WidePC or WideTV). The Setup menu for PC is still disabled (grayed out). I can’t believe it is this difficult. :confused: I probably should give up now…
Thank you anyway.

if it is working correclty, you should only be able to choose from WidePC or WideTV using the vga connection in the back.

go into the names of the connections and select PC or GAME from the name list for the VGA connection - it sounds like this isn't done yet - which would cause these problems...

ingenue007

01-22-07, 08:17 PM

man i am pissed. my tv has a dark shadow in LL corner. TV repair guy shows up unannounced (no scheduling calls) when i have to go somewhere. So I stick around for him to repair it; light engine is replaced, but unit turns on and off. He fiddles with a switch. Unit turns on, but he leaves. 10 mins later, it turns off. Red light in the front says Lamp Temp or something. I pulled the back panel off and made sure all the connections are OK. hooked it back up and it still turns off after about 10-15 mins. I just went into service menu and chose 'reset lamp', every 'reset' option i could choose. I hope this works. I want to watch TV. pisses me off i didnt get time to record my settings.

Any ideas??

Milmanias

01-23-07, 07:59 AM

Yes, that’s VGA Analog
I tried both your suggestions and still got “Not Supported Mode”. The choices for picture size are still 16:9, Zoom1, Zoom2, and 4:3 (no WidePC or WideTV). The Setup menu for PC is still disabled (grayed out). I can’t believe it is this difficult. :confused: I probably should give up now…
Thank you anyway.

What does it read after you change inputs to the VGA? After renaming the input to PC it should display "PC PC".

fog80

01-23-07, 12:46 PM

ingenue007

01-23-07, 06:58 PM

turns out my temp sensor was broken.

shrikedoa

01-24-07, 09:04 AM

While following the info on calibrating and turning of DNIE I've seen several references to turning of CCA before calibrating color levels, but can't find info on what that actually means. Is it single setting in the service menu?

Also, is there a reference anywhere with all the service menu options listed out?

Zach

ltj

01-24-07, 10:43 PM

I recently noticed my HLR5067 consumes about 30W when turned off. That's about 20 kWh/month if kept plugged in. Is this too much?

midnightman

01-25-07, 12:19 AM

if it is working correclty, you should only be able to choose from WidePC or WideTV using the vga connection in the back.

go into the names of the connections and select PC or GAME from the name list for the VGA connection - it sounds like this isn't done yet - which would cause these problems...
Yes I tried to select PC for the source name, got "PC PC". There's no "VGA" though. Still no lucks

HD Hockey Guy

01-25-07, 01:43 PM

Yes I tried to select PC for the source name, got "PC PC". There's no "VGA" though. Still no lucks

Mine reads "PC GAME" on the screen when I switch to my VGA input...

Dr. Shrinker

01-25-07, 08:31 PM

I have the Samsung HLR5067W. One HDMI input.

Last night, the tv flickered to snow and full green then to "check signal source" and "check cable" or some such messages. I checked the HDMI cable, and when I wiggled it near the input on the back of the TV, the picture would come up then off until it doesn't come up at all anymore.

The HDMI cable is fully inserted at both ends. I'm assuming it's the input on the TV that is bad or loose. Any ideas otherwise?

Anyone know of a fix for this?

I JUST started having this same problem after I disconnected my old PS2 from the component inputs on the back of my 5067...wiggling worked the first couple of times, now I have to remove the HDMI cable and re-insert it. I was hoping the cable was failing, but it does seem more like the input is defective. Weird thing, I've had this TV for over a year and a half, and this never happened before this month...

ingenue007

01-25-07, 11:09 PM

f3l1x

01-28-07, 04:11 AM

I purchased this set when it had just been released from Best Buy. I've tested the lag to be anywhere between 100ms to 250ms depending on the source. I purchased the extended warranty (or whatever best buy calls it) for the extra 4 years. Long story short: (not really that short)

Not sure if I am interpreting everything correctly; I just wanted to share my story so far with this set.

I complained to best buy about the lag issue. They tell me to call Samsung. Samsung tells me I'm S.O.L. since my rev date is a month off before they added a "game mode". I was told by Best Buy that this was a feature of the TV when i purchased it... They finally order a tech out to me. This took a YEAR of hassling once every other week.

Tech calls me about the issue... I explain HD lag. Tech order a new analog board -- Tells me the source of any firmware issues with scaling/de-interlacing are on that board (handles component and composite inputs). tells me digital inputs are on the light engine itself and that a new board will have the latest firmware.

...2 months go by...

The board has finally been shipped so I should be getting it Installed within the next 10 days.

If anyone has any insight on analog board transplants please fire away.

If this new board doesn't work, does anyone have any insight on how best buy accepts returns? Outside of the 3-time lemon issue... it took me a year to get 1 issue resolved. sigh.

Thanks

P.S. sorry for the brain dump of 2 years into one post.

f3l1x

01-28-07, 04:21 AM

Mine reads "PC GAME" on the screen when I switch to my VGA input...

PC is the name of the DB-15 VGA port. the second name (if its there) is what you named the input. (game, pc, dvd, etc.)

As far as getting the screen to fit, nvidia and ati both have hdtv setup wizards that help figure out overscan and the exact native resolution for the tv. just leave the TV at default settings for now.

With my nvidia setup has the desktop set to a native res of 1271 x 713 or so (full 720p goes outside the bezel) and set to scale up on the video card at other resolutions (overscan-ish issues but it looks nice). The best thing to do is go through game cfg's and input the native resolution if possible.

If your still having trouble with the nvidia or ati hdtv setup wizard i can put up a (better) tutorial with screenshots.

tuta

01-29-07, 03:31 PM

dewar1234

01-29-07, 05:41 PM

BillKen

01-30-07, 03:47 PM

I'll go ahead a summarize since I've had similar problems finding information in this thread. There's so much in here that it becomes difficult to find precise answers.

Opening service mode: Mute-1-8-2-PowerOn

Arrow down to "Option"

On my set the fifth entry is "Lamp Life" It shows 7857h on my set.

Even if this was a display model that's 13 hours a day for the past 20 months. Isn't the average bulb life shorter than this?
I just replaced my bulb on my HL-R5067W - the old one had 8137 hours on it - and other than the annoying "flicker" I'd get sometimes it was still going strong. The new bulb is however noticeably brighter - I had to tweak a few settings to tone it down.

JonDotCom

01-30-07, 05:37 PM

rockjeep44

01-31-07, 03:25 PM

I'm trying to help a friend with his set. Here's a picture:
Click on it to see full size
http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/2908/20061216samsungdlp002fk1.th.jpg (http://img164.imageshack.us/my.php?image=20061216samsungdlp002fk1.jpg)

Dark strip along left side is the issue. I've played around in both the user and service menu without any impact. Is it time to have a service call?

My TV (hl-r5067w) is having this identical problem. I called Samsung and they confirmed a light engine issue. They said they would have to get the repairs approved and call me back within 7-10 days or something like that. Two weeks go by and nothing. So, I call back and the rep tells me that I have been approved for a new replacement. Great a new TV! However, they want to replace me with the HL-S5086w. On the surface this seems like a great deal. But, I did some research and found that the HL-S5086w does not have a Cablecard slot nor does it have PIP or a DVI Audio In. All of these features are important to me especially the Cablecard slot. I do not and will not use a cable box. I hate them. It would be very expensive for me to change to a cable box, pay for the service, etc. Right now I'm getting a great deal with the Cablecard. I told the customer service rep these things so they transferred me to the ECR department where I explained my position again. I mentioned that the HL-S5088w more closely resembles the features of my TV and she understood but said she'd have to talk to her supervisor. The supervisor apparently says that since that is a 1080p set I would have to pay $300 for the upgrade. I've seen where others in this thread have gotten the 1080p replacements. If I went with the HL-S5086w I would have to change to a more expensive cable plan, rent the equipment, etc, not to mention buy a new stand. All of this for something that wasn't my fault. I love my Cablecard so that is a must. Am I out of line asking for the HL-S5088w? I realize that paying $300 to get that set is a deal but in my situation I don't believe I should be liable for any damages.

Any advice?

edit: latest update, waiting on a callback from Tracy in 24 to 48 hours, apparently a supervisor in the ECR department.

kenhartsell

01-31-07, 07:40 PM

my hlr 4667 is almost a year old and during the past week its shut off itself randomly like 3 times. I made sure nothing was blocking the air vents and there are no error lights on the power button.

should i be calling for service?

My 5067 did this back around November, see http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8996870&&#post8996870 and didn't do it again until just last weekend. Then it shut itself off twice within 15 or 20 minutes. Left the set off for one or two hours and it hasn't happened since.

At the time my set shuts off, if I quickly look at the power button, the green lamp led flashes about four or five times. When you shut the set off normally, no lights flash. I'm assuming at this point there is some temperature sensor for the lamp which is shutting the set down. If I had time to sit on the phone I would call customer service.

ringo64

02-01-07, 12:31 PM

My HLR-4667 had the opposite problem. It would turn on 30-60 seconds after I turned it off. I did this two or three times over a few weeks and I called Samsung. They had me unplug it and hold the Power/On-Off button down for 30 seconds then plug it back in (like you can do for a PC or laptop to bleed the charge off the capacitors). That seemed to fix it. Six months later it's only powered back on one time. An odd problem but not really a big deal.

brettwf

02-01-07, 05:54 PM

My TV (hl-r5067w) is having this identical problem. I called Samsung and they confirmed a light engine issue. They said they would have to get the repairs approved and call me back within 7-10 days or something like that. Two weeks go by and nothing. So, I call back and the rep tells me that I have been approved for a new replacement. Great a new TV! However, they want to replace me with the HL-S5086w. On the surface this seems like a great deal. But, I did some research and found that the HL-S5086w does not have a Cablecard slot nor does it have PIP or a DVI Audio In. All of these features are important to me especially the Cablecard slot. I do not and will not use a cable box. I hate them. It would be very expensive for me to change to a cable box, pay for the service, etc. Right now I'm getting a great deal with the Cablecard. I told the customer service rep these things so they transferred me to the ECR department where I explained my position again. I mentioned that the HL-S5088w more closely resembles the features of my TV and she understood but said she'd have to talk to her supervisor. The supervisor apparently says that since that is a 1080p set I would have to pay $300 for the upgrade. I've seen where others in this thread have gotten the 1080p replacements. If I went with the HL-S5086w I would have to change to a more expensive cable plan, rent the equipment, etc, not to mention buy a new stand. All of this for something that wasn't my fault. I love my Cablecard so that is a must. Am I out of line asking for the HL-S5088w? I realize that paying $300 to get that set is a deal but in my situation I don't believe I should be liable for any damages.

Any advice?

edit: latest update, waiting on a callback from Tracy in 24 to 48 hours, apparently a supervisor in the ECR department.

My 4266w has a similar problem when the screen is dark and no signal to image. I sent it in for warranty repair and the problem was not fixed. Instead of sending it back, I decided to wait until the effect can be seen when there is an image displayed.

Brett

dabl

02-02-07, 09:19 AM

...With my nvidia setup has the desktop set to a native res of 1271 x 713 or so (full 720p goes outside the bezel) and set to scale up on the video card at other resolutions (overscan-ish issues but it looks nice).

I have a general related question about setting the pc video resolution for use on this set.

Understanding the native resolution for the set would be 1280 x 720 (or a close variant), are there other higher resolutions that are useable and/or desireable to run assuming the pc video card is up to them (ie higher resolutions for running games such as 1600x1200, 2048x1536, 2560x1600 etc.)

newview

02-02-07, 10:48 AM

goitsme48

02-02-07, 10:59 AM

I have Samsung HLS5687W tv hooked up to Philips HTS6500.... In the philips manual they recommend turning off progressive scan on TV and turning progressive scan on the DVD player.. I did some research but could not find how to turn off PS on TV? Any ideas??

Thanks !!

bioman35

02-02-07, 12:48 PM

I'm having a little problem with my HDMI connection. Seems like it doesn't want to cooperate with me anymore. I used to have a SA 8300HD STB connected via HDMI and it worked perfectly. I moved a while ago and it never seemed to work afterwards, so I switched out the box and still nothing happened. I had it set to component for the time being. Now, I've moved again and I want to set up the box correctly. For some reason, the TV won't recognize the signal when the HDMI cable is connected to the box. The Hdmi selector is grayed out. Now here's the interesting part: When I have component hooked up to the TV and the other end just hanging out, the TV will recognize component 1 and let me select it. When I have a HDMI cable plugged into the TV and the other end hanging out, the HDMI selection is still unselectable. Is my HDMI connection busted? Is there any other way to test this? Thanks.

BTW, this is a HLR4667W.

HD Hockey Guy

02-05-07, 09:08 AM

All -- high def loving parents especially -- please tell me there is a way to disable the front, oversized, on/off button.

My 22-month old has gotten strong enough to bend back the plastic protector we have covering access to the button right now. Needless to say he likes to turn it off and on (yes, the sound was the first thing we turned off when we got it a year ago).

(The plastic cover is the VCR Protector that Babies R Us carries , you simply turn the cover over, left the TV just a bit, and slide cover underneath so the tv's weight keeps it in place).

So -- outside of unplugging the TV itself, is there a way to disable it and go remote control only?

No real answer, but I had a good laugh (at your expense obviously) and it reminds me of my friend who's 14 month old has figured out the fun of playing with daddy's technology (xbox, dvd player, tv, etc...) so they have bought a series of footrests and lined them up to form a fort in front of the tv - only to now have the toddler trying to scale the obstacle while peering over his shoulder to see if daddy's gonna come get him.

As for your dilemma, I'd contact Samsung directly but I'm guessing there's not a disable feature for that button since it would be the only way to turn on the set if someone lost the remote. Perhaps a thin piece of aluminum or steel bent at 90 degrees and tucked under the set to cover the button would prevent this???

Good luck!

HD Hockey Guy

02-05-07, 09:15 AM

Ok; I give up! I have searched for over 2 hrs. and can't find how to get to the lamp clock. I just replaced my LE because all three lights would come on after shutting down the tv. Everyone seems to know how many hrs. there lamp has, but i can't find the menu in my manual. Also; now that i replaced the lamp; how do i reset the lamp clock?

LOL - all that searching and the answer was 7 posts up from yours :p

Opening service mode: Mute-1-8-2-PowerOn

Arrow down to "Option"

On my set the fifth entry is "Lamp Life"

Be careful navigating in these menus - I tried to check my life and arrowed over too fast and somehow reset the bulb life - so I lost the number I was trying find (somewhere around 3,000 hours).

I'm having a little problem with my HDMI connection. Seems like it doesn't want to cooperate with me anymore. I used to have a SA 8300HD STB connected via HDMI and it worked perfectly. I moved a while ago and it never seemed to work afterwards, so I switched out the box and still nothing happened. I had it set to component for the time being. Now, I've moved again and I want to set up the box correctly. For some reason, the TV won't recognize the signal when the HDMI cable is connected to the box. The Hdmi selector is grayed out. Now here's the interesting part: When I have component hooked up to the TV and the other end just hanging out, the TV will recognize component 1 and let me select it. When I have a HDMI cable plugged into the TV and the other end hanging out, the HDMI selection is still unselectable. Is my HDMI connection busted? Is there any other way to test this? Thanks.

BTW, this is a HLR4667W.

$20 to find out - and why not have another HDMI cable for future needs?

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=203400863&adid=17070&dcaid=17070

fog80

02-05-07, 10:26 AM

No real answer, but I had a good laugh (at your expense obviously) and it reminds me of my friend who's 14 month old has figured out the fun of playing with daddy's technology (xbox, dvd player, tv, etc...) so they have bought a series of footrests and lined them up to form a fort in front of the tv - only to now have the toddler trying to scale the obstacle while peering over his shoulder to see if daddy's gonna come get him.

As for your dilemma, I'd contact Samsung directly but I'm guessing there's not a disable feature for that button since it would be the only way to turn on the set if someone lost the remote. Perhaps a thin piece of aluminum or steel bent at 90 degrees and tucked under the set to cover the button would prevent this???

Good luck!

SAME HERE! my 1 year old started getting into the entertainment center and messing with the dvd player etc, so we lined it with ottomans and footrests and now she climbs up on it to press the power button on the tv!

fog80

02-05-07, 10:29 AM

My 5067 did this back around November, see http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8996870&&#post8996870 and didn't do it again until just last weekend. Then it shut itself off twice within 15 or 20 minutes. Left the set off for one or two hours and it hasn't happened since.

At the time my set shuts off, if I quickly look at the power button, the green lamp led flashes about four or five times. When you shut the set off normally, no lights flash. I'm assuming at this point there is some temperature sensor for the lamp which is shutting the set down. If I had time to sit on the phone I would call customer service.

well i called samsung on friday night and they had a tech at my door 8 am on monday morning. he replaced the bulb and made some calibration changes to the set.

i am thoroughly impressed with samsungs customer service, the hold time was minimal and the tech (even though hes a contractor) was awesome!

im a big fan of good customer service and i am definitely more likely to buy a samsung after this experience.

HD Hockey Guy

02-05-07, 10:44 AM

well i called samsung on friday night and they had a tech at my door 8 am on monday morning. he replaced the bulb and made some calibration changes to the set.

i am thoroughly impressed with samsungs customer service, the hold time was minimal and the tech (even though hes a contractor) was awesome!

im a big fan of good customer service and i am definitely more likely to buy a samsung after this experience.

glad to hear it - I've noticed my brightness levels are slipping down, and my overall balance between brightness and contrast is getting out of line... may be time to call in for a replacement bulb soon - hope i have a positive experience like you.

bioman35

02-06-07, 01:08 AM

LOL - all that searching and the answer was 7 posts up from yours :p

Opening service mode: Mute-1-8-2-PowerOn

Arrow down to "Option"

On my set the fifth entry is "Lamp Life"

Be careful navigating in these menus - I tried to check my life and arrowed over too fast and somehow reset the bulb life - so I lost the number I was trying find (somewhere around 3,000 hours).

$20 to find out - and why not have another HDMI cable for future needs?

http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=203400863&adid=17070&dcaid=17070
Already tried with a new monster cable from Radio Shack. No luck still, so I know its not my HDMI cable. Maybe I should go to Best Buy and get a HDMI Dvd player to test and return?

How long does the Samsung warranty last? Mine is 1.5+ years old already, so it might be out of warranty. If it is, does anyone know how much it will be for a tech to inspect it? I am hitting myself for not calling the tech people sooner to get this resolved, when the TV was 11.9 months old....arg.

Milmanias

02-06-07, 08:25 AM

Did you call Samsung when you got the tv? If you registered it within 10 days they extended the warranty an extra 3 months. I'd give them a call anyway and see what they suggest.

happy1tv

02-06-07, 12:49 PM

dewar1234

02-09-07, 06:12 PM

i to prefer the Zeiss light engine. but have made many other tweaks than you. let me know if your interested and I will post them.

happy1tv

02-10-07, 02:22 PM

I've made many tweaks for trial but found those that I posted proved to be best..Besides if you notice people who change alot of settings sooner or later start having unexplained problems with there sets..But post them anyway to see if I had missed any..

MatthewR

02-10-07, 03:58 PM

i'd love to see the tips for this TV included somehow in the first post... the thread is a bit long for searching now

ltj

02-14-07, 08:58 AM

MANNAXMAN

02-14-07, 10:06 AM

Hi, I live in Houston Texas with Time Warner Cable Standard package. The signal is directly from wall to TV w/o STB or Cable Card. There are a lot of Digital channels (including HD) but the numbering is kind of weird (something like 75-101, 75-102 ..., 76-331, 76-332, ....). I have no clue how the channel numbers on TV are linked to the channel line up information on TWC website. Can anybody help? Thank you very much!
You're in the wrong thread/forum. Channel mapping is specific to a region. I'm no authority on this topic, but from what I've read in my local cable thread, depending on the provider, channel mappings can change as often as on a daily basis. Try this thread: Houston, TX - TWC (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=383882&highlight=houston). Good luck.

Here is a recent specific post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9664437&&#post9664437) (02.02.07) on that thread with some channel mappings.

ltj

02-14-07, 10:38 AM

Thanks, MANNAXMAN, that's the thread I have been looking for. :)

tacos

02-14-07, 11:21 AM

i to prefer the Zeiss light engine. but have made many other tweaks than you. let me know if your interested and I will post them.

How do I tell which light engine I have? Thanks

dewar1234

02-14-07, 06:06 PM

fog80

02-15-07, 11:01 AM

just had to say that watching LOST in HD last night on my hlr 4667 was awesome!!

shrikedoa

02-15-07, 11:35 AM

I have the option for 2 different light engines in my service menu for my HLR. The default is samsumg, the other is called Zeiss. When I switch to 2nd light engine the screen flips upside down and the image is backwards. This can be fixed by changing the horizontal and vertical to "flipped" in the service menu. Anyway, I think its a better picture using this other light engine. Is anyone else doing this? Or what is this 2nd light engine for? Why else would you have the option of flipping your horizontal and vertical?

I think people are looking at this setting incorrectly. There are probably two different hardware light-engine units, one by Samsung and one by Zeiss. The menu lets you indicate which is installed, so that the correct default settings are used. So changing the setting is applying the "wrong" settings for your installed engine. Maybe it looks better, but odds are you've deoptimized something.

happy1tv

02-15-07, 03:31 PM

You are correct..If you think that the "other" light engine looks better you are mistaken or only hoping.

happy1tv

02-15-07, 03:55 PM

I don't know why it says join date Feb of 2006 when I've been a member since 2004..I've only recently posted???

inijohn

03-05-07, 10:25 AM

I JUST started having this same problem after I disconnected my old PS2 from the component inputs on the back of my 5067...wiggling worked the first couple of times, now I have to remove the HDMI cable and re-insert it. I was hoping the cable was failing, but it does seem more like the input is defective. Weird thing, I've had this TV for over a year and a half, and this never happened before this month...

I started having this problem with a flashing "snow black snow black" on the HDMI input when I turn on the TV. Sounds similar to the problem above. I have a motorola DVR hooked up to the HDMI input, box is from comcast, I originally assumed that was the problem but their phone support says it's the TV and I tend to agree.

If I unplug the HDMI from the cable box and then plug it in again it's fine. I almost never shut off the DVR. ANyone else experiencing something similar? Should this be covered under warranty?

Thanks....

bear3351

03-06-07, 09:59 PM

I had this set for about a year, in the last 2 months I started noticing this water coloring effects, it looks like washed out colors, specially during dark scenes. It almost looks like the brightness is too high but I have lowered it with no changes on the display.

It is more noticeable watching a DVD but I also see it watching TV.

TV Model: Samsung HL-R6167W From the specs, Resolution:1280x720. Broadcast Format Supported: 480i - 480p - 720p - 1080i

DVD Model: Samsung DVD HD-950

I have them hooked up using the HDMI cable while the sound is connected using an optical cable to the receiver.

I looked at the settings of the DVD player and noticed the resolution was set at 1080i, I changed this down to 720p which is what I think my TV can handle. Right? But no changes in the quality of the picture. Is there anything I can do to improve the picture? Do I have the right settings? Could it be the cable?

Thank you in advance.

Milmanias

03-08-07, 12:22 PM

Try component cables, and if that's it it could be the cable or the hdmi input. Maybe the lamp is going out? I've had mine for a year and a half and keep wondering when the lamp will go dark.

Best of luck. Hopefully it will not be too expensive.

bear3351

03-09-07, 04:41 PM

Good morning everyone. I've been very happy with all the tweaks and suggestions in this thread although some of it can't be more wrong and some are head scratchers. The main statement that is incorrect that is said that their is no reset button in the service menu is false. I own the HL-R6167W with the Zeiss light engine. To reset the sevice menu to factory defaults is as follows..Get in the service menu go to the OPTION menu,turn on the WB reset,then go to the EER reset select then wait abaout 5 seconds the tv will reboot. IF you have the ZEISS light engine it will reboot with the picture upside down all you have to do is get back into the service menu which you'll have to do anyway to change a couple of setting which I feel will give you the optimal picture. Anyway go to the first menu DDP1011 and scroll to the light engine which will show SAMSUNG and select and change to Zeiss and this will corect the picture right side up. If you have the Samsung light engine it will reboot the same and just follow the previous instructions. The following changes pertain to the ZEISS light engine only..Change the gamma to 1..Then in the ADV7401 menue change the A_OFFSET to 25 and thats it. Before I did this my picture had a macro problem and clay faces which some of the people of this forum had complained about and this corrected and gave me the best picture. This procedure will reset ALL but the lamp time back to FACTORY settings...Some of you like the Zeiss over the Samsung light engine all I can say is that The samsung light in the service have more control over the Zeiss. As for quality I can't see much else different. I learned most of what I said by buying the Service manual for these setsexcept for the reset which I've learned by trial and error. I'm a purist and want the best possible picture I can get,after all we spend a great deal of money on these tv's. Even after the reset the DNIE wasn't all that bad..Good luck and enjoy..

I am going to try to make those changes in the service menu. I hope that will solve my problem, you call it "clay faces", what I see on my screen is that the faces sometimes look like a wash-out color, like a green light shadow, I describe it as a water color painting look. I also see the same when there is white wall on the scene; the wall shows different pastel color shadows.

How do I know what light engine I have?

Mine was replaced about the same time I started noticing these Clay faces on the screen.

Thank you for your help.

Update.

The tech was here this morning, made some changes to the index and saw no difference, he told me, I need a new engine, all in less than 5 minutes! I wonder if he knows what he is doing. So in about 10 days he'll be back to replace the engine.
Question: I need the new engine to be installed before I called a professional to calibrate the TV, right? I am done trying to do it myself

bear3351

03-10-07, 08:31 PM

I tried DNIe demo mode last night on one of my inputs which still had DNIe enabled and guess what, I found exactly the same thing as you. Even with DNIe enabled, the demo mode was showing that I was in the DNIe off mode. What gives here? The demo mode seems to be totally bogus.

I am having the same experience, DNIe seems to be off on my set.

DemonLos

03-11-07, 01:01 PM

I started having this problem with a flashing "snow black snow black" on the HDMI input when I turn on the TV. Sounds similar to the problem above. I have a motorola DVR hooked up to the HDMI input, box is from comcast, I originally assumed that was the problem but their phone support says it's the TV and I tend to agree.

If I unplug the HDMI from the cable box and then plug it in again it's fine. I almost never shut off the DVR. ANyone else experiencing something similar? Should this be covered under warranty?

Thanks....
`

I have this exact same problem. Moto 6412 from comcast. I resolve it by turning power off than back on with the DVR. This doesn't work if something is recording and than I have to unplug/replug the HDMI cable. I think this started happening after a comcast firmware update but I can't be sure. I am getting my dvr replaced this week and will see and report back if the issue is still present. If it is, well that is what a 5 year warranty is for, I reckon...

XFileGuy

03-12-07, 05:55 PM

I've had my hlr6167 for a year. About a month ago I decided to call Samsung about the curved screen causing my pincushion image. Service guy came out and replaced the screen on his 2nd visit (1st visit had a crack in the new dark screen). New screen is only slightly less curved than the first at the top, about the same at the bottom. The service techs were very nice but both said that a bent screen is normal with big projection TVs. My parents' 62" Toshiba has next to zero bend so I think this is a bad design by Sammy for installing the screens. Other than the pincushion, I love this TV. I don't even regret it not being a 1080p. (Wish it had 2 HDMIs though).

happy1tv

03-13-07, 12:38 AM

OK ..This something you can try also to help with the clay faces is to turn off the DNIE in service..IN DNIE menu Turn all values off or to 0 up to and including the SCALE_R but leave all values after the SCALE_R at the current values. This will help a great deal with everything in the picture. This does turn off the dnie which imo does more harm than good to the picture. The light engine model is in the DDP1011 menu. if you have any questions e-mail me as I don't get to this site but maybe once or so in a week. I also got my display professionally calibrated today and looks BEAUTIFUL..Thanks Doug of D6500.. By the way it will take awhile turn off the dnie especially the 12000 to 0..

brettwf

03-13-07, 08:55 AM

OK .... By the way it will take awhile turn off the dnie especially the 12000 to 0..

Hold the button down and the values will start dropping by 100 instead of 1.

Brett

brettwf

03-13-07, 08:59 AM

OK .. This does turn off the dnie which imo does more harm than good to the picture. ..

On my 4266, I was able to see more detail in dark scenes after turning DNIE off. To my wife's and mine eyes, we got a better picture after turning off DNIE.

Brett

ltj

03-13-07, 09:59 AM

XFileGuy:

I think my 5067 have the same problem with yours. Did they replace the screen at your home? Somebody said they need to bring the TV back to their shop. Otherwise, I have already called Samsung.

I've had my hlr6167 for a year. About a month ago I decided to call Samsung about the curved screen causing my pincushion image. Service guy came out and replaced the screen on his 2nd visit (1st visit had a crack in the new dark screen). New screen is only slightly less curved than the first at the top, about the same at the bottom. The service techs were very nice but both said that a bent screen is normal with big projection TVs. My parents' 62" Toshiba has next to zero bend so I think this is a bad design by Sammy for installing the screens. Other than the pincushion, I love this TV. I don't even regret it not being a 1080p. (Wish it had 2 HDMIs though).

bear3351

03-13-07, 06:29 PM

so my light engine was completely replaced recently. my image is really grainy. how can i fix this? which option in the service menu can i change?

jeez my colors were beautiful beforehand. now i can't seem to get colors right. arghhh

Did you ever take care of the grainy picture? What did you do?
I am having that problem besides a few others... I would like to know how did you fix that.

bear3351

03-13-07, 06:35 PM

Does anyone know what the factory setting for LAMP BOOST is? for the HL-R6167W
I forgot to record this setting. :confused:

happy1tv

03-14-07, 04:15 PM

bear3351

03-14-07, 06:18 PM

The lamp boost is set at 20 as for the graininess(mosquito noise) well there is not much you can do for this because if memory serves its from the incoming signal(compression)..Don't quote me on that.Bear3351 you say you have other problems..such as??I had all kinds of problems with my set and really wasn't very happy with it. This is my 3rd sammy dlp and was extremely happy with all but this one. I change models about every 2 or 3 years to keep up on the technology and sell the old to get enough out of the old set to defray the cost of the new. I ended up getting a new light engine for mine and ever since have been really happy. Not only that I had mine calibrated this week and now I'd match mine up to ANT dlp out there on the market...If you want to talk about your issues with yours call me PM for telephone #..

Thanks for the help.

I bought my TV about 15 months ago, it was "perfect", unbelievable picture. Almost at the one year anniversary the TV started going on and off by itself, I called for service and they replaced the light engine and the motherboard. Since then it's been a nightmare, I have tried different things to bring it back to what it was with no luck.

The picture is way too bright, clay faces, out of focus, grainy, it also seems like is not using all the screen, no matter what movie I am watching there is always black bars on top and bottom. I tried the AVIA and the DVE calibration but did not help the situation.

I called the service people again and within 5 minutes of the tech messing with the index he told me I need it another engine, which will be installed this Saturday.

After that, I am NOT touching the TV. I have asked Eliab to please calibrate my TV and I can't wait to be able to watch a movie without wanting to throw the remote at the screen.

Lately I have been wondering, if the tech replaced the engine with a different brand than what my TV is set for. Apparently there is a Zeiss(?) and Samsung engines. Who knows, I'll ask on Saturday and I am sure Eliab will go over all that. I'll let you guys know how it went.

happy1tv

03-14-07, 07:30 PM

bear3351

03-14-07, 08:34 PM

Yea..When they work the Samsung line are #1 in my book but on the other hand when their bad they are terrible. Sounds like my situation is reverse of yours ie started out with the problems then ended up with a beautiful picture. I'm wondering if they don't use remanufactured parts as replacements. So when they replaced yours you got a "b" grade part? It kind of makes you wonder. The light engine is half of the tv. Tell me something did they give you a new bulb when they replaced your light engine or put the old bulb back in. Did they bench it or site replace the engine..Just some things to think about..It seems like from what I've read about the light engine replacement people who had theirs benched and replaced faired well as to those whos engine replaced at site. Mine was benched for a couple of days before the assessment was made to replace the light engine. How reputable is your service guy? Some in my opinion aren't good at all. I went through 2 service outfits before I found one that I thought was intelligent as far as dlp's go. I told samsung about that issue also to be more careful in who they have represent samsung to repair..Just a thought.

Funny, I 've been thinking the same. I was not home when the first engine was replaced, it was done on site.
I know what you mean about the tech's, the last one they sent, end up being a "nice guy" but, when I first saw him I was wondering if I should let him in the house, lol. As far as how much he knows, your guess is as good as mine. This time I'll be home and I will ask, if the engine is new or a rebuild, as a matter of fact, I will call tomorrow to find out.
I know I am not going to be happy with the quality of the picture, but I am counting on Eliab to take care of that.

happy1tv

03-14-07, 09:03 PM

XFileGuy

03-16-07, 02:32 AM

XFileGuy:

I think my 5067 have the same problem with yours. Did they replace the screen at your home? Somebody said they need to bring the TV back to their shop. Otherwise, I have already called Samsung.
They replaced the screen in my house. They actually ordered a new screen before even looking at the TV. The screen is really 2 pieces, one's a "clear" layer and one is the dark layer. The first day they came out, the dark layer had a crack so they had to re-order a new one. The tech puts the TV on the floor so he and I could lay the frame on the ground face down and remove the screens from the back. It seems to me like the way the screen fits in the frame it is not tight enough to keep it flat when it is vertical. Just my opinion.

daniel mac

03-17-07, 12:43 PM

I purchased a hlr5667w in oct 05 and after approx 11 mo had issues with the "clay faces" or macros as I have seen on this thread particulary with black and white colors. I called Samsung and they sent out a tech that (after several visits) finally replaced the DMD and LE after having trouble diagnosing the problem. What I found to be odd though was that when this problem started at power up I would hear Beethoven's 5th playing for about 20 sec in addition to the Samsung start up tone. This musical tone appears to come from the back of the set oddly enough. The tech was not able to provide an answer for this musical tune nor was anyone at Samsung. HAS ANYONE HEARD THIS BEFORE??

Now 6mo after having all this work done to my set I am having the same problems with the macros and Beethoven's 5th is back !!! I have called Samsung and they are willing to at least cover parts as I am out of warranty but still no answers for the symphony that plays from the back of the set. I believe it is a warning or indicator of some sort....any comments??

I am at 2700hrs on current lamp

bear3351

03-17-07, 09:28 PM

Well I think thats the best thing you can do for yourself is to have it calibrated by someone who knows whats whatin dlp land. I would be interested in what he comes up with for numbers compared to mine after calibration. What light engine do you have? Mine is the ZEISS and from what I've been told is the better light engine but don't know this first hand if its better or not. Good luck and if you have any questions please ask as I'm not new to dlp tech..

The tech came today and replaced the light engine, and the difference is incredible, I am very happy. I am not touching any settings. I am not sure what engine I have. Do you by any chance have the part number for the Zeiss?

By the way, the new engine uses a different lamp than the original, this is a little bigger and he had to trim the back of the lamp unit cover so that it will close flat.
I can't wait for Eliab to get here, work his magic, and get it even better.

bear3351

03-17-07, 09:31 PM

rocky01

03-17-07, 09:54 PM

Look up Index Delay in the "Search This Thread". It's in the Service Menu of the set, another term you can also search for in here, unless someone wants to update the thread and post tweaking instructions again for those unfamiliar. But yeah, the macroblocking can be dialed out and/or greatly reduced. Some have also found changing Gamma to improve things globally acrosss all sources.

My question: after the light engine is changed, don't all Service Menu tweaked settings get obliterated? I would hate to have dial in everything like it's a new set again.

happy1tv

03-17-07, 11:24 PM

NO>>Not inless the service tech changes them.

Terrax

03-20-07, 03:12 AM

Since I got my HLR5067w 6 weeks ago, I've been bothered by
(1) the obscenely high contrast of the default settings;
(2) obvious "graininess"/"noise"/"texture" of dark areas in low contrast scenes;
(3) extreme green cast to the same dark areas of low contrast scenes.

by fiddling around with various setting in the service menus, I've virtually eliminated all these problems without turning off DeNIE. I blew $30 for the service manual, which was a total waste of money unless you're interested in making board level repairs or understanding the details of the video circuits (I was interested only in calibration tips--there weren't many).

(1) can be fixed by turning down the user menu contrast settings from the default of 90 to about 60--70 (for the "standard" preset). OR:
Except for "my color control", all user menu settings are reset to the factory defaults every time you enter the service menus (how incredibly stupid engineers can be!) so if you're happy with using the default settings on the user menu, you can adjust the "sub-contrast" & "sub-brightness" for good PQ while you're in the service menus. The settings labeled "sub-contrast" provide a baseline contrast (actually white level--it would more accurately be called the "glare control") which controls the affect of a given setting in the corresponding user menu's contrast--i.e. moving sub-contrast down in the DeNIE menu causes the effect of (the default setting of) contrast=90 on the user menu to actually be lower contrast. Likewise, the DeNIE setting of "sub-brightness" provides a baseline for the user menu's brightness (actually black level) settings.
BTW, DeNIE is set up as follows on my set: TV mode and HDMI share settings; all Svideo inputs share settings; Component 1 and 2 each have their own settings; and the VGA PC input has its own settings.

(2) is much smaller then 16x16 pixels and so is, I believe, really MPEG quantization noise, an artifact of the low signal to noise ratio of MPEG encoding in dark areas, especially if the compression is quite high or the image has been encoded/decoded more then once or with a less-the-great encoder. Since I have trouble spelling "quantization" and being a photographer by training, I usually call this "dark-area-graininess". It's not really a "macroblock problem" as is often stated on this forum. Anyway, I found service menu items that fixed this:

(a) changing the "Index Delay". Mine was at 42. Using the test pattern in the index delay service menu, I found that the gray scale test pattern broke up (started changing color from gray) with settings below 28 and above 45. As advised in the service manual, I set mine to 36, the middle of the range.
BTW, the index delay is used to synchronize the electronics with the mechanics of the spinning color wheel--e.g. to make sure that the red signal happens just as the middle of the red segments of the color wheel pass in front of the light beam and not while part of the green filter is in the beam. Hence, it affects all inputs and varies slightly with each color wheel.

(b) changing the Gamma. Mine was at 4 and I wound up setting it to 1. The values run from 1--9; the service manual says it selects a lookup table, and it looks to me like they're arranged in random order because they bounce all over the place; e.g. 2 was almost identical to 4, but 3 was Much lighter and contrastier then either and much like 6--9. I found 1 & 2 were similar to 4 & 5 with 1 & 5 being darker then 2 & 4 and 1 & 2 being slightly darker and producing less dark-area-graininess then the others. All gammas above 5 where useless. Gamma is a system-wide setting.
I also turned down the Lamp Boost setting (also system-wide). Mine was at 15 and I lowered it to 0, which made the overall picture very slightly less bright. My theory is that this affects the voltage applied to the lamp, so a lower value will prolong lamp life. It might also change the color temp slightly, and I did notice (I think) a very slightly bluer color at 0 (although logic says the color temp should go warmer, not cooler). I did notice that if I turned the lamp boost up past 19, the picture turned significantly greener.

(3) can be largely eliminated by lowering the DeNIE setting called "Grn-B-coeff". This, of course, applies to all inputs in a DeNIE settings group. Mine was at 128 (as were all the "x-x-coeff" settings), reducing it to 115 for the HDMI input (which I use for my DVD player) cleaned up DVDs without noticeably affecting the TV input that shares the same DeNIE settings group. Nor does it seem to have a noticeable effect on high contrast images. I also lowered Component 2 (which I use for my SA8300HD STB) grn-B-coeff to 123.
There's also a "Grn-C-coeff" setting; I'm not sure what effect the two different Grn-x-coeff have (green-brightness and green-contrast?? one of these may have the same effect as the user mode "My color control" settings). Anyway, the Grn-B-coeff seems to work better for getting rid of green in dark areas of low contrast scenes, which is what I was after. My theory is that some combination of coeff (and possibly other DeNIE settings) can be used to get the same effect as the user mode Tint control would have if it was not disabled for some inputs.

BTW, the CCA settings are intended to correct for minor variations in the color/density of the filters from color wheel to color wheel. A replacement color wheel should come with a factory calibration label that specifies what the correct settings for that wheel. I think it works like this: the "D" settings in the right-hand column are the desired/target numbers for the desired color gambit space; the electronics manipulate the electronic signal to scale it from the actual value for that filter to match the desired value. Without an expensive colorimeter or paying for a calibration, it's pretty much impossible to calibrate CCA, so trusting the factory setup seems wise. Anyway, I've found that changing the settings quite a bit has virtually no noticeable effect on the image. CCA settings are grouped by inputs as follows: TV & HDMI; all Svideo; all Component; VGA/PC).

I found that Activator gain (mine was at 90; a system wide setting) made relatively little difference and you have to look at the test pattern Very closely to see any changes at all. It seems to affect sharpness/focus/convergence. (of course, there's no convergence per se in a DLP, since the same mirrors are used for all colors, but Activator Gain may effect the rise time of the signal that flips the mirrors, thus changing the timing of the mirrors. :)

Greetings,
I have been trying to find out how to change my "Lamp Boost" setting of my HLS5087w to no avail, yet I keep seeing references made to being able to change the value. I understand that your set is a different model than mine, but mine does have the setting within the DDP3021 area of the SM on mine, but it is greyed out and I can't seem to find a way to un-gry it so I can change the value.

Was yours greyed out or were you able to change it from the get go? If it was greyed out, how did you get it to where you could change the value?

Thanks in advance.

gpcollen1

03-21-07, 03:45 PM

happy1tv

03-21-07, 07:41 PM

iS THIS problem on all channels and or just on one or more inputs?

gpcollen1

03-22-07, 10:21 AM

Every channel and every input - it is definitely the TV.

happy1tv

03-22-07, 05:26 PM

Well its definitely the colorwheel..MAYBE you can correct this by changing the index delay..if this doesn't fix the situation you need a new light engine..

daniel mac

03-22-07, 06:13 PM

anyone heard of my crazy music coming from my set....Beethovens 5th every time I turn it on!!!!

rocky01

03-22-07, 07:36 PM

NO>>Not inless the service tech changes them.
Well, finally got it done after a little requisite wrangling with CS and regional under-contract people. Well worth it. But needing the job done in first place is a little unnerving. Not that all these companies don't have their share of issues, especially with new advances. Nice results but I found I had to reassess my settings, for instance my Index Delay went down to 35 (from 43) with the new engine and my Gamma went to 1, Lamp Boost to 20. Then with color temperature in the regular menu set to Warm 2, both SD and HD look good. No other futzing necessary.

cardaway

03-23-07, 02:47 PM

I'm hoping somebody can help me find a replacement lamp for an Akai PT50DL14. The replacment part number labeled on the TV is BP96-01394A (0120W).

I've had no luck finding a place that lists it for sale.

BTex68

03-23-07, 04:34 PM

moved from another thread.

Hey all,
I've owned the set since oct05 and it's been great. about 5 days ago I turned it on and got a horrible loud noise. A whir/buzz noise that went on and off continually. It would actually vibrate the set it was so loud.

The picture looked black and white and flickers a bit.
Silly me looks in the manual and it says if you have 3 blinking lights (i do) then your bulb is blown. So I bought a bulb.
Didn't work.
I figured color wheel but gave Samsung a call, they referred me to someone.

Talked to a Samsung authorized service person and he doesn't think it's ONLY the colorwheel. He said I would have some color. And when the wheel completely stops spinning there is absolutely no picture. So he thinks it could be the light engine.

Does that sound right? or could it still just be a colorwheel? I'd rather just replace it myself but he scared me when he said i wouldn't have a black and white picture from a broken colorwheel.

I have a colorwheel ordered but now I'm thinking I should drop it off to this guy so if it's the light engine I can get Samsung to do something about it.

Should I take a chance with the colorwheel?

Bill

Denbo_33

03-24-07, 10:29 AM

cardaway

03-24-07, 01:21 PM

Any places other than the Samsung site? I was hoping there are places online that sell them cheaper than Samsung.

gpcollen1

03-26-07, 08:56 AM

Well its definitely the colorwheel..MAYBE you can correct this by changing the index delay..if this doesn't fix the situation you need a new light engine..

Initial assesment indicates it is the DMS but the Tech has to come back.

bear3351

03-30-07, 06:45 PM

The tech came today and replaced the light engine, and the difference is incredible, I am very happy. I am not touching any settings. I am not sure what engine I have. Do you by any chance have the part number for the Zeiss?

By the way, the new engine uses a different lamp than the original, this is a little bigger and he had to trim the back of the lamp unit cover so that it will close flat.
I can't wait for Eliab to get here, work his magic, and get it even better.

Well, Eliab (from: www.Avical.com) worked on my TV today and needless to say, what he did is magic, I watched the movies that showed my complaints the most and guess what... They are all gone. I can't believe the difference. THANK YOU Eliab.

dewar1234

03-30-07, 06:58 PM

I have searched and searched and only found one person who posted their service menu settings after having their set professionally calibrated.I know that each set is different...yada, yada, yada.....but when I searched this forum for my dad's hdtv, it only took a matter of minutes to find people who have posted their settings for their sony sets after having them professionally calibrated. After making these changes to my dads tv it looks great. I am beginning to wonder if the line of "every set is different" is a hoax. I know I am asking a lot but would someone please post or pm me their service menu settings after having their set professionally calibrated.

DireWolf08

04-02-07, 01:35 PM

I am also interested to find out how people solved/lessened the grainy/noisy image in low contrast/dark images. It sounds like the index delay and gamma need to be tweaked within the service menu . . .

jayfore

04-02-07, 04:31 PM

How do I tell which light engine I have? ThanksI don't see any reply to this one -- does anybody know?

I am also interested to find out how people solved/lessened the grainy/noisy image in low contrast/dark images. It sounds like the index delay and gamma need to be tweaked within the service menu . . .
I don't believe there is any way to fix this when your source is not of HD quality... I think the fixes are actually just ways to somewhat conceal the problem.

johnny15

04-04-07, 09:31 AM

Alright guys, I'm a bit concerned and I'm wondering if anyone has any info for me.

Last night after only owning the TV for 19 months and using it maybe 15 months (built a house so TV was not in use) my Samsung HLR5067W's bulb shattered!!! Is this normal??? Also, after the bulb shattered, I heard what sounded like a bit of a grinding noise. It would happen every 10 or 15 seconds since the TV power would not turn off until I unplugged the TV. I'm wondering if any of the glass shards from the bulb took out my color wheel or did something to my mirrors. Is this a possibility?

Please help!!!

happy1tv

04-05-07, 12:53 AM

johnny15

04-05-07, 06:28 PM

First of all could you be a little more specific about the timeframe of the grinding noise?About the bulb shattering is not common but does happen as I know of one personally happening. As far as the grinding noise it sounds like the colorwheel starting up after a power interruption. Kind of like the colorwheel "winding" down after power interruption and trying to start back up before it completely stopped. That sound like it? The bulb is ALMOST fully incased so I doubt that it "shattered" around the light engine but thats not to say it didn't..

OK, I replaced the bulb today and started the TV back up. No noise!!! :D

You must have been right with the color wheel winding down and starting back up before it completely stopped.

So far so good. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed!!

happy1tv

04-05-07, 07:49 PM

ONE more thing..NEVER NEVER UNPLUG your tv after it has been on just to turn it off. You run a great risk to frying the colorwheel. Always wait for it to finish the shut down process and the fan to stop as it stays on for a few after the tv powers down. I understand your concern in your situation but you really could have really hurt things. Your really lucky..

kenhartsell

04-08-07, 10:28 PM

Originally Posted by tacos
How do I tell which light engine I have? Thanks

I don't see any reply to this one -- does anybody know?

I do not know how to tell the manufacturer of the engine, but the tech who examined my HLR5067 last week said that the letter "P" in the lamp code number is the light engine which is known to have problems. He said my set is the "R" model series and that the current series is "S".

My set has been turning itself off by itself, sometimes with green lamp flashes, sometimes not. The Tech said this is a known problem with the "P" series. He is supposed to return with a new light engine for my set. My bulb hours are just under 2000.

Update; 4/9/07, my set is definitely the "P" series light engine, not the R. Got desperate this morning after the second time the set shut down within 15 minutes and pulled it out to make sure nothing was blocking the ventilation openings. While it was out I took a digital picture of the lamp code label. This label is on the left side of my set near the bottom.

fog80

04-10-07, 09:06 PM

I do not know how to tell the manufacturer of the engine, but the tech who examined my HLR5067 last week said that the letter "P" in the lamp code number is the light engine which is known to have problems. He said my set is the "R" model series and that the current series is "S".

My set has been turning itself off by itself, sometimes with green lamp flashes, sometimes not. The Tech said this is a known problem with the "P" series. He is supposed to return with a new light engine for my set. My bulb hours are just under 2000.

Update; 4/9/07, my set is definitely the "P" series light engine, not the R. Got desperate this morning after the second time the set shut down within 15 minutes and pulled it out to make sure nothing was blocking the ventilation openings. While it was out I took a digital picture of the lamp code label. This label is on the left side of my set near the bottom.

uh oh. my tv had this problem a while back and i had my bulb replaced under warranty. i hope that there wasnt an underlying light engine problem.

fog80

04-11-07, 02:29 PM

uh oh. my tv had this problem a while back and i had my bulb replaced under warranty. i hope that there wasnt an underlying light engine problem.

speak of the devil!!

my tv started turning itself off and on this morning! I just called samsung who referred me to a local service center. The tech on the phone says that it sounds like a bulb, but I told him that the bulb was just replaced two months ago.

He is going to research the issue and call me back. Should I tell him that the light engine is going bad?

Milmanias

04-12-07, 07:29 AM

I bought a used DVR10 and it arrived yesterday. I have a Samsung HLR6167W DLP and I knew I could not do timed recordings with this tv, but I want it so I can still record HD manually. I hooked it up and the IEEE1394 (DNET) reports is as "uncontrollable". It knows it's a RCA-brand device, and it recognizes and can control the Motorola DVR box that's connected to the DVR10. If anyone with gotten a DVR10, 2080 or 2160 to read on a HLR, can you tell me anything I might do to get mine to work? I'm downgrading my cable service and will lose my Moto box, so this is probably the only inexpensive way to record HD.

Thanks

kenhartsell

04-13-07, 10:07 PM

speak of the devil!!

my tv started turning itself off and on this morning! I just called samsung who referred me to a local service center. The tech on the phone says that it sounds like a bulb, but I told him that the bulb was just replaced two months ago.

He is going to research the issue and call me back. Should I tell him that the light engine is going bad?

My replacement light engine is on back order. My set was doing the same thing as you described above. Does your bulb code end in a P? My set's bulb code label is located on the left side of the set.

srstakey

04-13-07, 10:25 PM

Hi All,

I've been lurking around here for a little while, but now I seem to be having some trouble with my HLR4667W.

I went to turn it on today and saw the bulb warm up, and while the picture was still dim, after a few seconds, the picture disappeared. You could see that the bulb was still on after the screen went blank, and the sound continued playing from the channel that was on. At that point, all of the buttons on the TV (including power) became unfunctionable, and when a remote button was pressed, the timer light would light up and nothing else would happen. This is reproducable every time I turn on the TV.

After unplugging (the only way to shut off the tv now) and trying again, the same thing happened, though before the picture went blank, I accidentally hit antenna on the remote...and that led me to the background of the TV Guide screen (that blue/purple background), with snow (expected) in the upper left hand corner. After that, the TV became unresponsive, still showing the moving snow from the air tuner which is not connected.

I tried calling 1-800-SAMSUNG and they said to hold down the power button for 10 seconds with the set unplugged and that didn't work. Of course, then they referred me to a service center, but I wanted to wait for a little while (to search the Web).

So now, it seems to me that this would be a software issue--TV Guide comes up after we start the TV, but it looks like something is wrong with the TV Guide...so instead of getting the listings, we get only the black screen (or for that one time, the blue background with the image in the top corner without any listings).

Then again, I know quite a bit about computers and not much about the innards of these TVs (though enough about the connections, etc.), so is there something I'm missing? My hope is that we can get a tech out here to stick a programmer into the USB port on the back and it will be fixed...

Can anyone offer any assistance? Thanks!!!

PS: I normally use a CableCARD, but the issue happens regardless whether the card is in the slot of not.

kiddstyle

04-14-07, 09:38 PM

I am looking for a replacement bulb for a HLR6164 Samsung in Canada.
Does anyone know the price?
What about the part number?
Does anyone know where to get this in Canada?

thanks

JohnP1732

04-16-07, 12:36 PM

HL-R6167w (since 5-05)
Sony DG-800, receiver (since christmas 06)
Sony DVP-NC615, dvd player (no idea when I got it)

HDMI connection option doesn't show up on TV when the wire is connected from the reciever.

DVD to receiver is component video
receiver to TV is both component and HDMI. (Yes both, because I haven't had the time to troubleshoot the hdmi problem, so the wire is connected but I get nothing through it.)
TV does have the optical cable to the receiver. (For the cm4228 in the attic for OTA HD).

Now, the 6167w does have that nifty little caveat about using the the hdmi in that you have to have the red/white audio connected at the same time.

So, here's my questions :

1. anyone else have a problem with HDMI on this model specifically? how did you get it to work? with what?

2. am I being dumb to have both the component and hdmi connected at the same time?

3. think I need to upgrade the dvd player, do an hdmi connection to the receiver, and see what happens there? (or just upgrade the dvd player in general.)

Thanks.

gpcollen1

04-16-07, 03:54 PM

After two service centers not wanting to service the unit b/c too far to travel, samsung is replacing my unit with the HL-T5075S.

I am having this exact same problem. Began back when the TV was 2 months old. It stopped doing it by the time the service tech got out to check it out. It only occurred a few times since. All of a sudden a few days back, it is doing this so much that I cannot even watch the set. I am out of warrantly but trying to get Samsung to step up and cover this and get someone out here as they never fixed this problem since last year.

Any clues?

fog80

04-18-07, 10:50 AM

Ok, I just had my light engine replaced a few minutes ago.

my tv was turning itself off and on over and over again. One day last week it wouldnt turn on at all, and I had all three lights flashing. I unplugged the tv and left it alone and it turned on the next morning but it took a whole minute for it to reach its full brightness.

Also, one time it turned on and i saw the lamp light and could hear the wheel spinning, but there was no picture.

The tech changed out the light engine this morning and said that it was a brand new light engine. I noticed that he took my existing bulb and put it in the new light engine he installed. I asked him if my old bulb was still good and he said yes (they changed it out two months ago). He said that he took the bulb out of the new light engine because it was older than mine. I dont know if that made sense since the light engine was supposedly "new".

Anyways, I just have to say that my experience with Samsung and Virginia Electronics has been a good one. They are prompt and curteous.

XFileGuy

04-19-07, 05:14 PM

to JohnP1732:
My DirecTV receiver via HDMI is not recognized when the output resolution is 480i/p, but when it is 720p or 1080i then it works. Sometimes the receiver will switch mid-show by itself and I have to manually switch it back using the output button on the front of the box.

JonDotCom

04-19-07, 10:00 PM

HL-R6167w (since 5-05)
Sony DG-800, receiver (since christmas 06)
Sony DVP-NC615, dvd player (no idea when I got it)
HDMI connection option doesn't show up on TV when the wire is connected from the reciever.
So, here's my questions :
1. anyone else have a problem with HDMI on this model specifically? how did you get it to work? with what?
Thanks.

Try renaming the HDMI input and make sure it is on.

JonDotCom

04-19-07, 10:02 PM

Ok, I just had my light engine replaced a few minutes ago.
-snip-Anyways, I just have to say that my experience with Samsung and Virginia Electronics has been a good one. They are prompt and curteous.

I have also had a very positive experience with samsung so far. I hope I never have to call them again though :)

jdastas

04-23-07, 02:41 PM

fog80

04-24-07, 03:48 PM

jdastas

04-24-07, 11:21 PM

wow, i feel like an idiot. to answer your question I dont why it just never occured to me. lol

bstaley

04-25-07, 10:55 AM

Newbie here, have had my HL-R4667w for more than a year now, but have always had trouble with the picture being displayed to low. To explain better, when I watch say ESPN, the bottom score ticker is cut in half, so you can only see the top part of the letters. Is there a way to adjust the screen to be able just simply move the picture about a few notches. thx

When this happens, is there a corresponding blank bar across the top of the screen? You don't say where your signal is coming from. Many Cable/Satellite have a setup menu that allows you to move the picture around to center it on your screen. Also be sure you are not in one of the TV's ZOOM modes. That would cause the top and bottom to be cut off of some signals.

daniel mac

04-25-07, 11:03 AM

daniel mac

04-25-07, 11:06 AM

P.S. The HLT5675 apparently has a 5 segment color wheel vs the 7 segment on the HLR series...Good/Bad/or indifferent

jdastas

04-26-07, 04:43 PM

bstaley,
I have cox cable, but no its not in zoom mode. I've tried to pull up the box's menu, but found nothing on adjusting the center of the picture. the only thing there was is to change the format, which i have set up as "pass-through" so that my tv would be doing the scalling. No, the tv screen is entirely fill, there are no black bars when I watch HD programing, I just notice that the picture is a little to low so if a channel has a bottom ticker like espnhd does, it will be cut off by a third or quarter of it. I have a friend with a Toshiba, and the same channel appears to be a little higher, as the bottom ticker on espn is in full view and more.

XFileGuy

04-27-07, 04:55 PM

P.S. The HLT5675 apparently has a 5 segment color wheel vs the 7 segment on the HLR series...Good/Bad/or indifferent

I just bought a HLT4675. It has more settings to play with in the menu for adjusting the image. Color is very vivid. I do notice that the screen seems different. It is like the diffuser layer of the screen is more diffuse, giving the image a little softer look. I know I'm comparing a 46 inch to my 61 inch (HLR6167) so you wouldn't expect the same. Other than the image, the big difference for me is that the inputs are near the right in the back instead of the center and the light that exits the vent from the lamp is bright and shines out the left rear of the TV. All-in-all, I like the TV.

HDtigerN.O.

05-02-07, 10:42 AM

modimplant

05-03-07, 07:20 PM

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brego

05-04-07, 03:09 PM

Anyone having success with the PS3 on the HLR series in terms of lag time? I stopped using my PS2 because the lag time made most games that require an precision unenjoyable. I don't want to buy a PS3 if the same problem exist. If you have had success please let me know the input you use, and any setting changes you made to reduce the impact of the TV's desire to over process good signals. In that regard, I guess success with an XBox 360 would also be appreciated.

Thanks.

I own a Xbox 360 and a HL-R5667W. Initially I had some pre-purchase concerns about the tv because of the reports of video games lagging on this set. The more I read about the issues, the more I noted that the original xbox/ps2 coupled with this tv was the least common denominator of the reported issues. I play 4-5 nights a week for over a year on my Xbox 360 on this HDTV and have no lag issues, period. I have the Xbox 360 console set to output a 720p signal to the HDTV via component cables through my receiver. Hope this helps.

fungstar

05-04-07, 03:19 PM

ive owned a HLR5067wx/xaa ( hope this is the right forums) for a little under a year now. i purchased it open item from best buy for a great price... anyways, one day i come home to a loud rumbling and grinding noise coming from the tv. after diagnosing the problem with tehse forums i order a color wheel and swap it out. noise is gone and picture is back. soon after though, i start to notice the clay faces thing that people keep talking about here ( looks like super high contrast to me ) and there is also a green tint whenever the screen is blank or "black" what do you think this problem is? i called samsung and spoke to the repair tech in my area, they couldnt give me a quote or any hint at what it could be so i was also wondering if anyone of you have had this repaired and how much it would cost? is this something you can do by yourself? please let me know, i had to watch my HEAT lose on a crappy pitcture

James90401

05-05-07, 12:41 AM

Denbo_33

05-05-07, 11:15 AM

Can someone tell me the code to get into the service menu using my remote? I want to see if there is a Picture Shift settings in it. My TV is about displayed about 1" lower then center, therefore cutting off tickers on some channels. I have Dish service, which I used to have a 921 receiver which had the picture shifter built-in the receiver. Now that I have a 211, I don't have the picture shifter built-in. All my inputs are slightly lower then center and I was told that in the service menu there probably is a picture shifter. Any help would be appreciated!
Vertical / Horizontal Position Adjustment
1. Turn off the power to put the unit into the STAND-BY mode.
2. In order to enter the Service Mode, Press "Mute" → "1" → "8" → "2" → "POWER" button on the Remote Control.
3. Select "Service" on the first display of the Service mode menu.
4. Select the V-position for vertical positioning and H-position for horizontal positioning by using the ▲ ▼ (up, down) buttons.
※ Do not set the V-position value to 34 or 35. (Setting to these values will cause horizontal lines on the right side of the screen.)

HDtigerN.O.

05-07-07, 04:23 PM

I own a Xbox 360 and a HL-R5667W. Initially I had some pre-purchase concerns about the tv because of the reports of video games lagging on this set. The more I read about the issues, the more I noted that the original xbox/ps2 coupled with this tv was the least common denominator of the reported issues. I play 4-5 nights a week for over a year on my Xbox 360 on this HDTV and have no lag issues, period. I have the Xbox 360 console set to output a 720p signal to the HDTV via component cables through my receiver. Hope this helps.
Great. I was hoping a 720p signal would reduce lag time, but I really did not want to experiment with a $600 purchase. Thanks for the info, I will give it a try.

SSpiro

05-07-07, 10:52 PM

Vertical / Horizontal Position Adjustment
1. Turn off the power to put the unit into the STAND-BY mode.
2. In order to enter the Service Mode, Press "Mute" → "1" → "8" → "2" → "POWER" button on the Remote Control.
3. Select "Service" on the first display of the Service mode menu.
4. Select the V-position for vertical positioning and H-position for horizontal positioning by using the ▲ ▼ (up, down) buttons.
※ Do not set the V-position value to 34 or 35. (Setting to these values will cause horizontal lines on the right side of the screen.)

I need to fix this too - what is the optimal v-position?

fungstar

05-09-07, 01:30 AM

gpcollen1

05-09-07, 10:00 AM

Samsung has given up trying to repair my HLR5667w and are offing a replacement set. Has anyone here had any experience with the HLT5675?
I need to know if there are any issues before setting the wheels in motion to replace. Thanks for your help guys.

Just got my replacement for my 5067 and it is a new 5075. Picture is much brighter - probably due to my bulb in my old set getting a bit old. Like someone else posted here, inputs are on the back right of the set. Very inconvenient if you have limited slack in your existing wiring. There is a tremendous amount of light exiting the left rear of the set. It appears to be very open to expel heat. I may put some screen over it or something to assist in reducing the light effect.

Sorry, but I have not gone through all the settings and menus to play around yet.

daniel mac

05-10-07, 10:47 AM

I just received my replacement HLT5675....Good job Samsung!!! Does anyone know how to adjust out the digital noise though. My HLR5667 did not have this issue. I have tried to adjust the DNR with little results although it seems to be less apparent when DNR is off. Also you now have the option to adjust the Gamma in the user menu. Does anyone have any additional suggestions on adjustments without having a professional calibration done?

HDtigerN.O.

05-10-07, 12:14 PM

I own a Xbox 360 and a HL-R5667W. Initially I had some pre-purchase concerns about the tv because of the reports of video games lagging on this set. The more I read about the issues, the more I noted that the original xbox/ps2 coupled with this tv was the least common denominator of the reported issues. I play 4-5 nights a week for over a year on my Xbox 360 on this HDTV and have no lag issues, period. I have the Xbox 360 console set to output a 720p signal to the HDTV via component cables through my receiver. Hope this helps.

I pulled the trigger and got the PS3. For anyone interested, the PS3 does not exhibit any noticable lag over HDMI, when set to 720p output.

JZac103

05-15-07, 05:20 PM

I pulled the trigger and got the PS3. For anyone interested, the PS3 does not exhibit any noticable lag over HDMI, when set to 720p output.

Thanks. I've had my set for a year... actually I think today is it's first birthday! I've been thinking of picking up an XBox360 to try this out, particularly because they are now selling the Elite models with HDMI outputs. Good to know the lag issues I've seen on my gamecube and such should not be an issue over a 720p connection. I figured as much, but I don't think it was ever really confirmed earlier in the thread.

Clutch414

05-15-07, 08:59 PM

Thanks. I've had my set for a year... actually I think today is it's first birthday! I've been thinking of picking up an XBox360 to try this out, particularly because they are now selling the Elite models with HDMI outputs. Good to know the lag issues I've seen on my gamecube and such should not be an issue over a 720p connection. I figured as much, but I don't think it was ever really confirmed earlier in the thread.

Just an FYI,

I have a HL-R5067 and have my Xbox 360 (Premium) hooked up using the component cables and haven't had single lag issue. I figured I would've noticed it by now, especially on games like Guitar Hero II.

I've had this setup for over a year now and I haven't had a single problem with it.

I think the lag issue was with previous generation consles, i.e. Xbox, PS2, Gamecube. But with the current generation consoles this isn't a problem.

epic528

05-19-07, 10:04 PM

Hello all,

I've had my H-LR5067W for about 16 months now and according to the Service Menu, I've got about 1200 hours on the bulb. As of late, I've been having two issues with the TV which may or may not be related. I could use some advice as to what I should do.

The first issue is that the set will not power-up at times. I hear relays clicking a few times, and the unit-on chime, but no lamp or fans. This happens from time to time when the room temperature is approximately 70F. With one press of the power button, the TV attempts to turn on about 5 times (as told the by number of relay clicks) before the three lights on the button on the front of the TV blink in unison. I have pressed the power button upwards of 10 times in a row (after the 5 retries have finished) without luck. Then I'll come back hours later or the next day and the TV powers up fine with a single press of the button.

The second issue happens consistently now when the TV does power up. A second or two after the unit-on the chime, but there is a terrible vibration noise which lasts about 5 seconds and goes away before the screen illuminates. I suspect the vibration noise is caused by the bearings in the color wheel going bad and not the cooling fan. Does this sound accurate?

When the TV is on, I have little issues with the color, brightness or audio. From time to time I've had the entire screen, or large areas (full left to right, but not top to bottom) flash "green" for a split second, but that hasn't happened in a while.

I am apt to replace the color wheel myself with instructions on the internet and a part from samsungparts in order to remedy the noise issue.

What do you make of the unit not power up at all? Is this a bad circuit board, or does the circuitry detect bad components (such as a color wheel) and prevent the unit from starting up?

I have not tried disconnecting the TV from the AC outlet and plugging it back in again. Does this reset some fault codes?

Thank you.

nitz369

05-19-07, 11:26 PM

I have been messing around in the Service Menu tweaking some settings and just noticed something strange. My lamp hours say 179,309,586 hours. I know this is wrong just wondering if there is a bug or what?

Also I have used this as my main TV since September 2005, when does the bulb need to be replaced? just when it goes out completely?

Rockford Punch

05-20-07, 10:30 AM

Oops, got my answer on the previous page of the thread..

kenhartsell

05-23-07, 09:38 PM

Try unplugging your set for 10 minutes. The serviceman who replaced the light engine in my 5067 told me that. My light engine was replaced because my set kept shutting off by itself. The light engine code on the label on the left side of my set ended in a "P".

The color wheel is a component of the light engine.

Good luck,

Hello all,

I've had my H-LR5067W for about 16 months now and according to the Service Menu, I've got about 1200 hours on the bulb. As of late, I've been having two issues with the TV which may or may not be related. I could use some advice as to what I should do.

The first issue is that the set will not power-up at times. I hear relays clicking a few times, and the unit-on chime, but no lamp or fans. This happens from time to time when the room temperature is approximately 70F. With one press of the power button, the TV attempts to turn on about 5 times (as told the by number of relay clicks) before the three lights on the button on the front of the TV blink in unison. I have pressed the power button upwards of 10 times in a row (after the 5 retries have finished) without luck. Then I'll come back hours later or the next day and the TV powers up fine with a single press of the button.

The second issue happens consistently now when the TV does power up. A second or two after the unit-on the chime, but there is a terrible vibration noise which lasts about 5 seconds and goes away before the screen illuminates. I suspect the vibration noise is caused by the bearings in the color wheel going bad and not the cooling fan. Does this sound accurate?

When the TV is on, I have little issues with the color, brightness or audio. From time to time I've had the entire screen, or large areas (full left to right, but not top to bottom) flash "green" for a split second, but that hasn't happened in a while.

I am apt to replace the color wheel myself with instructions on the internet and a part from samsungparts in order to remedy the noise issue.

What do you make of the unit not power up at all? Is this a bad circuit board, or does the circuitry detect bad components (such as a color wheel) and prevent the unit from starting up?

I have not tried disconnecting the TV from the AC outlet and plugging it back in again. Does this reset some fault codes?

Thank you.