well my warranty on my hlr4667 is ending next month and I got a thing in the mail to extend my warranty for three years it will cost me over 600 dollars. I think I will pass.

I had my light engine and bulb replaced under warranty in the last year, so hopefully the tv should last for a while now.

well my warranty on my hlr4667 is ending next month and I got a thing in the mail to extend my warranty for three years it will cost me over 600 dollars. I think I will pass.

I had my light engine and bulb replaced under warranty in the last year, so hopefully the tv should last for a while now.
Yeah, it's insane, how much they want for it! Yikes though -- I've not had to have anything replaced on mine yet, and I have almost 2000 hours racked up. I'm wondering if this is a ticking timebomb -- are these TVs really that crappy that they have things go bad that often? Heck, TVs always used to last decades, but now things go bad in a year or less?

I've had my HL-R5067 for over a year and a half. I haven't been in the SM in a while, so I have no idea how many hours I have on the original bulb. I would estimate that there are at least 2500 hours on it. So far, I've had nothing go wrong with this set. *knock on wood* When I bought the TV, I also purchased a 2-year extended warranty. If anything does go wrong, hopefully it will happen within the extended warranty period. If it breaks down afterward, it's probably time for a new set anyway! :-)

I've had my HL-R5067 for over a year and a half. I haven't been in the SM in a while, so I have no idea how many hours I have on the original bulb. I would estimate that there are at least 2500 hours on it. So far, I've had nothing go wrong with this set. *knock on wood* When I bought the TV, I also purchased a 2-year extended warranty. If anything does go wrong, hopefully it will happen within the extended warranty period. If it breaks down afterward, it's probably time for a new set anyway! :-)
But do you know what I mean though? In years past, we'd spend maybe $500 on a set, and it would last, usually problem-free, for at least 10 years. Now it seems that we're spending between $1000-$2000 on one, and it's accepted that expensive repairs will be needed within a couple of years, or that we will completely replace the set. How did we get so tolerant? :)

Hey guys, Just started having a problem with my HLR4266 last week. After 10-15 minutes of use the picture will go black and I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking every second or so. This will happen for about 5 minutes, then the picture will come back.

It seems to happen quicker when watching an HD signal or playing 360. Light engine possibly? I called Samsung on Monday and they got me taken care of quickly, have a tech coming on Thursday to look at the tv all covered under warranty. I must say that to this point working with Samsung has been the best customer service experience I have had with a consumer electronics company.

We're not tolerant, however we're essentially early adopters of new technology(ies), so intriguing that rather than wait to see how HDTV manages past it's growing pains, as soon as new development hits mass market folks are snapping it up. Other home entertainment advances took longer to gain widespread appeal. The advance in HDTV picture quality is something that average joe can see with his own eyes, so bring it to a nice price point and everyone wants it for the playoff games or to see even their existing video library in whole new light. Besides, a large number of say even high-end big tubes began maxing out lifespan at five years, just after any extended warranties ran out. So folks had to buy in. I'm willing to endure a somewhat potentially shorter life span before more coins go into the slot in order to get that huge quality increase right now at reasonable price. As shown in these pages with people getting satisfaction, I see Samsung standing by the product. I'm sure these companies are onboard for boosting long term reliability through LED and such or suffer the wrath of marketplace forces at work. IMO as enough of us also demand longer lasting, more trouble free products they'll develop quite naturally in the pipeline. And I'm certainly still not blase about seeing HD!

But do you know what I mean though? In years past, we'd spend maybe $500 on a set, and it would last, usually problem-free, for at least 10 years. Now it seems that we're spending between $1000-$2000 on one, and it's accepted that expensive repairs will be needed within a couple of years, or that we will completely replace the set. How did we get so tolerant? :)
I do know what you mean. I still have a 19" CRT TV that's almost 20 years old. It doesn't get watched very often anymore, as it was moved out to the garage about a year or so ago, but it still works. One big difference between a CRT TV and a rear projection TV like the Samsung HL-R's is moving parts. Any time you have a moving part like a color wheel, the higher the chances of something breaking down.

The tech was out today to look at the tv. It seems that my initial thought of a power supply issue was spot on. he check to see if it was the door switch and the temperature sensor relay, and they both checked out. Of course I couldn't get it to duplicate the problem while he was there, and as soon as he left it happened again.

Acording to him even 1-2 degree difference in the ambient temp can be enough to cause the problem. He is ordering the new power supply, as well as several other new parts, and they should be here in about a week, when they will come back out to do the repair work.

I have to reiterate how pleasantly suprised I have been with how well Samsung has addressed the issues w/ the tv. Not to mention the local video service was exceptional.

I'm still waiting for the techs to come repair mine. The problems are annoying. They should have the parts in this week....I hope.

I haven't been on this forum for a long and figured I'd get up to date. For the most part our HL-R5067W has been trouble free since new. I just checked the service manual tonight and the original bulb has 8086 hours on it and it still is bright! That's what I was hoping for despite all the gloom and doom about 2000 hour bulb life. Over the years we've had to pull the plug on it a few times to get its electronics sorted out and sometimes video lag has pissed me off. But for the most part this TV has been a great purchase. Even the Samsung techs have been helpful when I've called them about problems that turned out to be due to our cable company.

Sorry to hear about the problems some of you are having. Luck of the draw. Happens with all TVs out there from what I can tell.

Jon

I have just under 2000 hrs. on my HLR5667 and it is getting very dim. New bulb should be here in the next couple of days. I hope that brings it back. 2000 hrs. seems pretty like pretty short life. prg

All this bulb talk has reminded me...

...I changed mine a week ago or so as I ...sensed, I guess, more than noticed...that it was dimming. Sorry, I don't recall the accumulated hours.

After living with the new bulb I went into the SM to make a few tweaks and realized the bulb "counter" had not reset. I wound up resetting via a menu selection but shouldn't that have been automatic?

After living with the new bulb I went into the SM to make a few tweaks and realized the bulb "counter" had not reset. I wound up resetting via a menu selection but shouldn't that have been automatic?
Nope. It can't tell if you replaced the bulb or just re-inserted the original one. It has to be manually reset.

Anyone experiencing a loud but functional color wheel? My hl-r4266w that I bought about 6 or 8 months ago has made a loud whirring sound since day one which I thought was a loud fan, but I finally figured out it's the color wheel. When I turn off the set I hear it wind down but the fan is quiet and stays on for about a minute.

I'm not talking a little loud, I mean making a noise that's as loud as volume 1 and can be heard in the next room! I'm pretty sure samsung will take care of it as it's still under warranty.

Edit- follow-up: I read on the samsung ste about fan/color wheel noise, and it cleary states that the color wheel should not be audible except for when it initially spins up or when turning off the set.

I'm still waiting for the techs to come repair mine. The problems are annoying. They should have the parts in this week....I hope.
The repair tech finally came by Friday. He got to see the intermittent problems for himself, and verified it was the main board and not the light engine. He swapped it out and so far it's 100%. I'm so happy to have my TV back to normal! Luckily I was still within warranty (just barely) because I asked and he said the repair would have cost about $800-$900 if it came out of my own pocket. I hope this TV holds out for a very long time now.

Anyone experiencing a loud but functional color wheel? My hl-r4266w that I bought about 6 or 8 months ago has made a loud whirring sound since day one which I thought was a loud fan, but I finally figured out it's the color wheel. When I turn off the set I hear it wind down but the fan is quiet and stays on for about a minute.

I'm not talking a little loud, I mean making a noise that's as loud as volume 1 and can be heard in the next room! I'm pretty sure samsung will take care of it as it's still under warranty.

Edit- follow-up: I read on the samsung ste about fan/color wheel noise, and it cleary states that the color wheel should not be audible except for when it initially spins up or when turning off the set.

Got it replaced today. MUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCH quieter! Yeeeeeeehah.

It's been such a long time since I had the need to visit service menu. Does anyone remember changing index delay is per input (TV, component, HDMI...) or global?

Hi guys,

It has been a while since I posted in this thread. Recently, I've been getting an error message displayed on the screen right after startup. It reads "Check the Fan No. 3."

When I first noticed it, it would seldomly appear here and there. I would simply turn the TV off, wait for it to completely power down, then turn it back on and the message would not re-appear. The TV would function normally (and I must say beautifully) after that.

However, it has began to happen more regularly recently. I have the 4-year service plan through Best Buy and I have already scheduled a repair visit...but my questions are these:

Is this going to be a major repair?

What exactly is happening to my TV?

I realize that it is a fan issue, but what would cause the fan to malfunction like that?

Is this a normal wear and tear issue or could it be something I am doing that would cause the fan to malfunction?

The TV is only a little more than a year old (purchased NEW in March '06). Has this issue happened to anyone else?

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hi guys,
It has been a while since I posted in this thread. Recently, I've been getting an error message displayed on the screen right after startup. It reads "Check the Fan No. 3."
When I first noticed it, it would seldomly appear here and there. I would simply turn the TV off, wait for it to completely power down, then turn it back on and the message would not re-appear. The TV would function normally (and I must say beautifully) after that.
However, it has began to happen more regularly recently. I have the 4-year service plan through Best Buy and I have already scheduled a repair visit...but my questions are these:
Is this going to be a major repair?
What exactly is happening to my TV?
I realize that it is a fan issue, but what would cause the fan to malfunction like that?
Is this a normal wear and tear issue or could it be something I am doing that would cause the fan to malfunction?
The TV is only a little more than a year old (purchased NEW in March '06). Has this issue happened to anyone else?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I recently had my tv serviced and watched the tech do it. When your tv is turned on can you hear the fan at the rear of the tv? There is one fan directly at the rear of the tv, and another large one under the main engine or whatever you call it. The rear one would be cake to replace, but you'd need to find out from a tech which one is Fan no 3. I would guess that you've just got a bad fan or debris in it, since the fan apparently sucks air up from the dusty bottom of the tv. The techs can pull out the guts on these things and put them back together with no ill effects, so don't worry :).

Thanks for the response, JonDotCom.

To answer your question, when I turn the tv on, I can hear something spinning up...not sure if it's the fan or just the color wheel.

However, it doesn't sound any different than how it sounded before I was getting the error message. I'm hoping that it is only some dust or debris that has got caught in the fan.

Just and FYI....the only thing that is a teeny-tiny hassle about the Best Buy warranty (and it isn't even a huge issue at all) is that after you call them they send a referral to a local service shop. Here in Syracuse, NY it is United Radio. United Radio is great and their techs are very professional and knowledgable, it just takes about 24 hours for the referral to download into their computer system. And they can't schedule an appointment until they recieve the referral. :(

Unfortunately, I called the Best Buy service number and reported my issue last night at around 7:00pm, so when I called to schedule the tech appointment when I was at work today, they still had not recieved the referral. And now, unfortunately, they are closed for the day. Oh well. It really isn't all that big of a deal, I just want my baby fixed. I'm having HDTV and Xbox 360 withdrawal. LOL.

Got it replaced today. MUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCH quieter! Yeeeeeeehah.

You mean the TV isn't supposed to have audible fan noise while on?!?! HOLY CRAP! I am calling my repair guy.

I have a question regarding the VGA input. It seems many have complained about it being blurry or fuzzy. I have my HTPC hooked up via VGA and I agree, the Ubuntu deskop looks a little blurry and oversaturated. Tweaking the picture settings menu helps a bit, but not much. Is it possible that the blurriness is a calibration issue that is fixable from the service menu? It would be great if I could get the VGA looking nicely, otherwise I might be puying a DVI graphics card!

Quick update:

The tech came yesterday and looked at my TV with the "Check Fan No.3" issue.

Turns out, on the HLR5067W model, fan no. 3 is the fan that intakes air to cool off the cable card. It isn't one of the fans that helps cool the light engine. The tech also said that since I use a set-top cable box (meaning that the TV's cable card isn't used) the fan really has no function.

So...basically I was getting an error message for a fan that really wasn't cooling anything and was locked up because of dust. Basically, the tech took out the fan and cleaned it with some canned air. That simple.

Good stuff.

The wife has been getting on me about the tv eating different channels. We have a 4667 w/cable card insert. when we first go it, we got all the channels we were supposed to. all the hd channels, except TNT HD( video,no audio). But about 3 months ago we started to loose some of our encore channels and now we lost discoveryhd ! one of my favorites! Comcast guy here for 2 hrs last month and couldnt get it to work.... said we'd be better off with set top converter box. Does anyone
A. Have this same problem?
B. Can tweak the cable card using the sm?
C. Is there something I can use/ie laptop to run the service port....like an os update.

any help would be great..

dave

I would recommend going with a converter box also. I tried using a cablecard when I first got my TV, and it had so many problems that I was ready to kill something. Seems that the software in the cablecard and the TV are simply too buggy to be of any use. I'm not sure if anyone offers a software upgrade for this problem, but from what I understand, the manufacturers didn't want cablecards to work bad enough to get the compatability problems resolved. They just paid lip-service to the Feds because they were required to. I went with an external converter box and haven't had any trouble since.

I've got a 4667 and have run into a small problem. Out of the blue the other day I noticed that TV Guide no longer works. The light on the front of the TV still lights up when the button is pressed, but nothing happens. In addition, getting to it from the menu does not work either. Any suggestions?

We had this happen a few months ago, but the circuit boards had to replaced. We have a Monster surge protector connected, so a surge wouldn't be a problem.

Thanks in advance!

Well, being new here and after perusing various boards and sites, thought I'd share my findings. Picked up a used HLR5067W for a very reasonable price. Soon after the warranty expired (of course) things started to go wrong. Having the repair records from the previous owner helped. Warranty TECH replaced light engine and main board about 6 months ago. Developed green pixels in the black and purple in the white. This was an intermittent problem and would not always happen. Today I took the back off and bypassed the interlock (don't try this at home kids!) to see if I could isolate the problem. All was fine and could not get the problem to occur. An hour later....BINGO....the green guys showed up. Using an INSULATED (plastic) probe I poked around the mainboard etc......
Long story short.... The screws on the connection (looks similar to a VGA cable) to the light engine were loose and if I moved the cable the GREEN / Purple showed up and dissappeared depending how I moved the cable. 4 Hours now and no gremlins.

Will advise of change.

How doe you find the # of hours on your bulb so far? Is it via the menu somehow?

I have a HL-R4266W, original bulb. Since 11/205.

How doe you find the # of hours on your bulb so far? Is it via the menu somehow?

I have a HL-R4266W, original bulb. Since 11/205.
I found it elsewhere in this thread (post #3476, 5/5/07).

Is there a post somewhere with an item by item description of everything in that menu?

I'm at 3971 hours, since 11/2005. Never had any problems.

Once it cools, I'm going to crack it open, get the exact lamp # and order it from (probably) Discount Merchant. Are they the best/cheapest source?

I need to clean the screen. A few spots of unknown goop, hopefully water does that. Then the dry microfiber. Right?

Anyone have a coupon code? Or is there a way to refer this forum or someone here?

It's been such a long time since I had the need to visit service menu. Does anyone remember changing index delay is per input (TV, component, HDMI...) or global?

it is not global - you must set for each input

I had to order a new dlp lamp for my daughter's HLR-4667. The bulb has been replaced by a new design. Had a very frustrating time trying to get the lamp housing to go in all the way. Called Samsung and J&J about the problem, and all they would say was to push very hard on the new lamp housing. Finally was able to get it inserted correctly. Anybody else experience the same problem?

test

test - it's saying there's a URL in my post and there isn't

I had to order a new dlp lamp for my daughter's HLR-4667. The bulb has been replaced by a new design. Had a very frustrating time trying to get the lamp housing to go in all the way. Called Samsung and J&J about the problem, and all they would say was to push very hard on the new lamp housing. Finally was able to get it inserted correctly. Anybody else experience the same problem?
What "housing" do you mean? The big plastic cube the bulb goes in? Or something between the lamp and that cube?

The bulb I just ordered for mine from discount-merchant dot com came as just a bulb, I'll re-use the same housing (black plastic cube).

What "housing" do you mean? The big plastic cube the bulb goes in? Or something between the lamp and that cube?

The bulb I just ordered for mine from discount-merchant dot com came as just a bulb, I'll re-use the same housing (black plastic cube).

I bought the bulb in the plastic housing from the Samsung web site. Is there a cheaper place to replace just the bulb?

I bought the bulb in the plastic housing from the Samsung web site. Is there a cheaper place to replace just the bulb?

Try here.....http://www.discount-merchant.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=BP96-01394A&Search.x=15&Search.y=16

So, when the lamp goes out all I have to do is buy a new bulb and just replace that or what exactly does one do? I thought you had to replace the entire lamp. Thanks

Does anyone have a refurbished unit? I'm considering purchasing one due to the low price. But after seeing these horror stories about color wheels failing and short bulb lives i'm getting a little scared.

BTW i've purchased a 56" HLP pedestal for my dad 3 years ago, and it's still in great shape and on the original bulb.

I've got a 4667 and have run into a small problem. Out of the blue the other day I noticed that TV Guide no longer works. The light on the front of the TV still lights up when the button is pressed, but nothing happens. In addition, getting to it from the menu does not work either. Any suggestions?

We had this happen a few months ago, but the circuit boards had to replaced. We have a Monster surge protector connected, so a surge wouldn't be a problem.

Thanks in advance!
Mines does this from time to time. Just unplug the TV for about 10 minutes then plug back in and turn it on most of the time the guild will work again after doing this. You may also need to pull the Cable card out while it is unpluged and reinsert the card after plugging the tv back up and truning it back on.

Does anyone have a refurbished unit? I'm considering purchasing one due to the low price. But after seeing these horror stories about color wheels failing and short bulb lives i'm getting a little scared.

BTW i've purchased a 56" HLP pedestal for my dad 3 years ago, and it's still in great shape and on the original bulb.

I'm not sure I would go with a refurb(or even a new DLP) at this point in time. Prices on LCDs/Plasmas have come down so much since I bought this TV in 05... back in 2005 DLP was without a doubt the best "bang for your buck" in terms of screen size. There are just too many mechanical parts to a DLP, things that break more than non-mechanical devices.

Knock on wood, my 5667 has been great through, and survived one move/transport in a van(with me sitting in the back holding it, all 5 miles, haha).

I need your help guys.

I have a HL-R6167WX/XAA. Since about a week ago, red bands started to appear on top of the TV screen, and sometimes the pictures would freeze. Now when I turn the TV on, some fussy pictures show up with some sound at first and both picture and sound shut off, leaving me dark screen with no sound. At that point I cannot control the TV neither with the remote nor the buttons on the TV. It would not even turn off. I have to pull the power cord out to get it to turn off. When I turn it back on, only the LAMP light is flashing. :(

What is wrong with my TV? Does it require a new LAMP? I thought I read somewhere that all three LED lights need to be flashing for it to indicate Lamp replacement. :confused:

Could anyone please help me??

I searched this thread regarding problems with using the HLRXX67W as a PC monitor and did ont quite find the answer I am looking for, so here is my problem:

I am using my Samsung HLR5067W DLP TV as the display for my computer. The problem is that the only resolution setting I can achieve with this setup is 800 X 600. In the Windows XP display settings, when I try to move the resolution slide bar, it will not move so 800 X 600 is the only resolution available. With this resolution the picture fills the dsiplay but appears unnatural in that the picture is stretched out horizontally. I can live with it but would prefer to correct it if I can without too much difficulty. According to the TV manual, I think I should be able to set it at 1024 X 768, but 1024 X 768 does not appear available to me in the Windows XP display settings. Anyway, I don't know if 1024 X 768 would correct the stretched display because when you boil it down, the aspect ratio of both above resolutions is 1.33:1.

My computer is pretty old. It is a 2000 vintage Pentium III 1GHZ. The video card is an ATI All in Wonder 128 Pro 2X/4X AGP. The slot in my motherboard is 2X AGP. I think this video card was made before wide screens came into being and this may be the cause of the problem. I did download Power Strip and played around with it a little without success but if anyone has any specific things to try on Power Strip I would be glad to give it a try.

Here are my questions:

1. Is the stretched display issue due to a lack of capability of my video card?

2. If #1 is true, is there a 2X AGP video card that I might be able to find used somewhere that would work in my computer to solve this issue?

Before too long I will need to build up a new computer but I think that if I can solve this display problem without too much difficulty I would like to go ahead with that for now.

I need your help guys.
...
Could anyone please help me??

Nobody?? :(

I searched this thread regarding problems with using the HLRXX67W as a PC monitor and did ont quite find the answer I am looking for, so here is my problem:

I am using my Samsung HLR5067W DLP TV as the display for my computer. The problem is that the only resolution setting I can achieve with this setup is 800 X 600. In the Windows XP display settings, when I try to move the resolution slide bar, it will not move so 800 X 600 is the only resolution available. With this resolution the picture fills the dsiplay but appears unnatural in that the picture is stretched out horizontally. I can live with it but would prefer to correct it if I can without too much difficulty. According to the TV manual, I think I should be able to set it at 1024 X 768, but 1024 X 768 does not appear available to me in the Windows XP display settings. Anyway, I don't know if 1024 X 768 would correct the stretched display because when you boil it down, the aspect ratio of both above resolutions is 1.33:1.

My computer is pretty old. It is a 2000 vintage Pentium III 1GHZ. The video card is an ATI All in Wonder 128 Pro 2X/4X AGP. The slot in my motherboard is 2X AGP. I think this video card was made before wide screens came into being and this may be the cause of the problem. I did download Power Strip and played around with it a little without success but if anyone has any specific things to try on Power Strip I would be glad to give it a try.

Here are my questions:

1. Is the stretched display issue due to a lack of capability of my video card?

2. If #1 is true, is there a 2X AGP video card that I might be able to find used somewhere that would work in my computer to solve this issue?

Before too long I will need to build up a new computer but I think that if I can solve this display problem without too much difficulty I would like to go ahead with that for now.

Indeed, the problem is with your video card not being able to display any higher resolutions on the DLP display. It's probably time to look into upgrading your system.

Thanks for your reply carsan07. At least now I have a good excuse to build a new computer!

I have a HLP5663WX and have an issue wherein the unit will shut itself off repeatedly. We have replaced the lamp twice now, which takes care of the problem for about 10 - 14 months or so, and then it starts to happen again.

Has anyone encountered this problem (or something similar)?

I looked through these forums for a discussion about this but found nothing; however, I apologize in advanced if this was discussed elsewhere.

Thank you.

Well, I've had an HLR5067W since 4/2005, and a couple days ago, heard a loud "pop", and eventually lost the picture. From what I read, it was the color wheel, but I had a Samsung tech come and confirm, and that, he did. What I'm worried about is, where is the busted part of the wheel (probably a 2 X 1.5" sliver of cd-like material)? Is it shattered all about inside the box? Or did it fly off and mangle some circuit boards before it came to a halt?
So, the visit to my apt cost $90 (can be used against labor charge if they fix it). The color wheel is about $97, but it's backordered about a week (crap). If they fix it... $280 labor (!). And, I'm on my first bulb, which he figured I should probably replace, 'cause it's going to need to be done soon, anyway. That is about $160, I think, but I'm gonna pass on that.
Even though I've had no problems until this one, I don't ever see myself buying a tv with moving parts inside (well, high RPM parts anyway). The pic looked great (better than the Samsung plasma it replaced), but c'mon, after 28 months, I need a major overhaul? Hell, I could practically buy my model tv (refurb'd) for a couple hundred bucks more. I'd probably buy a new LCD before I did that, though.
For people that have had similar problems, or for the ones who may (will?) have this problem, I'll post more when I know more.
My big question is... what caused the color wheel to break? (What's to prevent it from happening again?)

Sounds like something digital since it freezes. There is a way to reset the tv by holding down certain buttons... samsung walked me through it on the phone one time. You might find a how-to online. I'd try that first.


I need your help guys.

I have a HL-R6167WX/XAA. Since about a week ago, red bands started to appear on top of the TV screen, and sometimes the pictures would freeze. Now when I turn the TV on, some fussy pictures show up with some sound at first and both picture and sound shut off, leaving me dark screen with no sound. At that point I cannot control the TV neither with the remote nor the buttons on the TV. It would not even turn off. I have to pull the power cord out to get it to turn off. When I turn it back on, only the LAMP light is flashing. :(

What is wrong with my TV? Does it require a new LAMP? I thought I read somewhere that all three LED lights need to be flashing for it to indicate Lamp replacement. :confused:

Could anyone please help me??

Even though I've had no problems until this one, I don't ever see myself buying a tv with moving parts inside (well, high RPM parts anyway). The pic looked great (better than the Samsung plasma it replaced), but c'mon, after 28 months, I need a major overhaul? Hell, I could practically buy my model tv (refurb'd) for a couple hundred bucks more. I'd probably buy a new LCD before I did that, though.
I agree with you 100%, though I've been fortunate enough to not have encountered any serious issues thus far. I've also had my TV about a year less than you have (4/2006), so maybe this is what I have to look forward to also (hope not).

What many will tell you is that this is the price of being on the edge with technology -- seems that when you have something that is relatively new, you're not allowed to complain or expect something that is both reliable and works as advertised... Though I disagree. TVs that I have bought in the past have never needed any repair whatsoever, and I spent probably 1/4 the price for those -- it's just not natural to spend so much on something, and be OK with a costly overhaul like this, after less than at least 5-10 years. I guess, like our grandparents/parents/(us to our kids) always said, they just don't make 'em like they used to. With everything coming from China nowadays, I think that's more right than ever. If you find any pieces of your color wheel, be sure to NOT eat any of them -- they may be riddled w/ lead! :)

Anyway, despite the problem of this TV (being known for) pushing too much green since the day it arrived (and I don't want to have to pay for a calibration), I love it. I really have no complaints other than that one... So far, anyway. Fingers crossed... But man, I hear ya! That BLOWS!

Thank you, JonDotCom.

Well, not wanting to sink more $ into a warranty-less tv (which was gonna need a new bulb soon, I figure)... I sold it last night on Craigslist for $200. I'm going to "downgrade" my next tv purchase (basically, buy older [cheaper] technology), but I'm definitely getting an extended warranty. I figure that most tv's aren't built to last more than 4 or 5 years anyway.

Well, not wanting to sink more $ into a warranty-less tv (which was gonna need a new bulb soon, I figure)... I sold it last night on Craigslist for $200. I'm going to "downgrade" my next tv purchase (basically, buy older [cheaper] technology), but I'm definitely getting an extended warranty. I figure that most tv's aren't built to last more than 4 or 5 years anyway.
So you canceled your order for the new color wheel then? Ohh, sad to see this TV go, but I feel your pain.

Well, not wanting to sink more $ into a warranty-less tv (which was gonna need a new bulb soon, I figure)... I sold it last night on Craigslist for $200. I'm going to "downgrade" my next tv purchase (basically, buy older [cheaper] technology), but I'm definitely getting an extended warranty. I figure that most tv's aren't built to last more than 4 or 5 years anyway.

Dang, man... the dcr tuner, pip, and other premium features in the hlr means somebody scored an awesome deal!

You'd cry if you saw how easy (and relatively cheap) it is to change parts on these things.

Dang, man... the dcr tuner, pip, and other premium features in the hlr means somebody scored an awesome deal!

I always felt like the tuner and pip could be a lot better. My HLR4266W can barely tune in anything (Winegard PR7032 antenna on the roof) but my DirecTV HR20 has no trouble, even though its OTA tuner has a bad reputation.

I always feed digital signals from the HR20 into the Sammy using HDMI, so I can never use pip.

Luckily, I didn't buy the Sammy for these things (I would like pip, though). What do you like about these features?

I liked my HLR, but didn't want to have to deal with any problems I may have caused with a bad install of the wheel. Plus, a big chunk broke off (inside the tv), so who knows what it may have damaged? I also didn't want to replace the wheel and find out there were more problems, seeing as how I have no warranty.
I'm actually considering another Samsung (HLT5075S)... but, I'm getting the warranty. Have to get something soon, but not sure what.

I always felt like the tuner and pip could be a lot better. My HLR4266W can barely tune in anything (Winegard PR7032 antenna on the roof) but my DirecTV HR20 has no trouble, even though its OTA tuner has a bad reputation.
I always feed digital signals from the HR20 into the Sammy using HDMI, so I can never use pip.
Luckily, I didn't buy the Sammy for these things (I would like pip, though). What do you like about these features?

I rely on the DCR to get many channels and HD content over basic cable, and rarely use the pip...but do use it. I also like the TV guide.

It's funny that you mention the HL-R4266w tuner being weak because mine can sometimes not pick up the same channel I CAN get on my HL-R4667w.... wonder why?

I have searched and searched and only found one person who posted their service menu settings after having their set professionally calibrated.I know that each set is different...yada, yada, yada.....but when I searched this forum for my dad's hdtv, it only took a matter of minutes to find people who have posted their settings for their sony sets after having them professionally calibrated. After making these changes to my dads tv it looks great. I am beginning to wonder if the line of "every set is different" is a hoax. I know I am asking a lot but would someone please post or pm me their service menu settings after having their set professionally calibrated.

dewar / anyone else ever get these settings?

So my friends and I want to buy one of these for our dorm room. The unit that we are looking at is a 50" and it about 1.5 years old. We are mainly concerned about the reliability. We dont dont want to color wheel breaking or the lamp burning out. (could we replace these ourselves???) Anyways, should we gamble and get the tv or is it going to crap out on us?

also is gaming a problem on this unit?

So my friends and I want to buy one of these for our dorm room. The unit that we are looking at is a 50" and it about 1.5 years old. We are mainly concerned about the reliability. We dont dont want to color wheel breaking or the lamp burning out. (could we replace these ourselves???) Anyways, should we gamble and get the tv or is it going to crap out on us?

also is gaming a problem on this unit?

Color wheel and bulb are doable if you have the nerve... easier than changing spark plugs on a car :).

Gaming is good if you get a model made in '06 that has game mode. You can look game mode up on samsung.com.

On my two HL-R sets which were made in March, game mode is enabled by renaming the input to "game." Also, if you use vga or hdmi, there's no apparent lag in my experience.

does anyone know how much samsung dlp tv's cost
in 2005

does anyone know how much samsung dlp tv's cost
in 2005

I bought a 42" in November, 2005, at Circuit City for $1700 on sale.

does anyone know how much samsung dlp tv's cost
in 2005

Both of my sets were near $2k in '05, but they dropped significantly in '06.

Nowhere near as bad as buying an LCD or Plasma at that time. DLPs were the cheap alternative!

Thanks for the answers

PS how long are the lamps supposed to last. I bought my 4664 (cdn) in July 2005 and I'm still on the same lamp... the counter says 5490.

I'm actually beyond you - bought mine in August of 05 and I'm up over 6000 hours at last check. It's time to replace it though - I'm up to about 65 brightness and have to lower the contrast down to about 70 to prevent blooming and the whites are going gray on me... overall image is getting dim.... but the blacks have never been better! hehe...

I guarantee if you replace it you'll see a dramatic difference at this point. You may have to switch over to dynamic mode if your whites get too dingy... but that will burn the remainder of the bulb out even faster. Start lining up your replacement now.

Well, I've had an HLR5067W since 4/2005, and a couple days ago, heard a loud "pop", and eventually lost the picture. From what I read, it was the color wheel, but I had a Samsung tech come and confirm, and that, he did. What I'm worried about is, where is the busted part of the wheel (probably a 2 X 1.5" sliver of cd-like material)? Is it shattered all about inside the box? Or did it fly off and mangle some circuit boards before it came to a halt?
So, the visit to my apt cost $90 (can be used against labor charge if they fix it). The color wheel is about $97, but it's backordered about a week (crap). If they fix it... $280 labor (!). And, I'm on my first bulb, which he figured I should probably replace, 'cause it's going to need to be done soon, anyway. That is about $160, I think, but I'm gonna pass on that.
Even though I've had no problems until this one, I don't ever see myself buying a tv with moving parts inside- (well, high RPM parts anyway). The pic looked great (better than the Samsu-ng plasma it replaced), but c'mon, after 28 months, I need a major overhaul? Hell, I could practically buy my model tv (refurb'd) for a couple hundred bucks more. I'd probably buy a new LCD before I did that, though.
For people that have had similar problems, or for the ones who may (will?) have this problem, I'll post more when I know more.
My big question is... what caused the color wheel to break? (What's to prevent it from happening again?)


WOW!!

This just happened to me on Friday 9-21. I took it apart (and as others posted it was a piece of cake...but I understand your response also) and confirmed color wheel also. I'm having a heck of a time finding this part in stock. I like the question you posed also....Why would this thing spontaniously explode??

Well, being new here and after perusing various boards and sites, thought I'd share my findings. Picked up a used HLR5067W for a very reasonable price. Soon after the warranty expired (of course) things started to go wrong. Having the repair records from the previous owner helped. Warranty TECH replaced light engine and main board about 6 months ago. Developed green pixels in the black and purple in the white. This was an intermittent problem and would not always happen. Today I took the back off and bypassed the interlock (don't try this at home kids!) to see if I could isolate the problem. All was fine and could not get the problem to occur. An hour later....BINGO....the green guys showed up. Using an INSULATED (plastic) probe I poked around the mainboard etc......
Long story short.... The screws on the connection (looks similar to a VGA cable) to the light engine were loose and if I moved the cable the GREEN / Purple showed up and dissappeared depending how I moved the cable. 4 Hours now and no gremlins.

Will advise of change.
Did the issue ever return or did you fix the problem. I am having the same problem and if this is the fix, that would be great.

I'm actually beyond you - bought mine in August of 05 and I'm up over 6000 hours at last check. It's time to replace it though - I'm up to about 65 brightness and have to lower the contrast down to about 70 to prevent blooming and the whites are going gray on me... overall image is getting dim.... but the blacks have never been better! hehe...

I guarantee if you replace it you'll see a dramatic difference at this point. You may have to switch over to dynamic mode if your whites get too dingy... but that will burn the remainder of the bulb out even faster. Start lining up your replacement now.

Any idea on where to get these online, and in Canada is a plus? Thanks.

Hey guys,

Haven't been on this forum for awhile, the new design looks great. Can anyone tell me the procedure to make the tech info appear on the screen? I want to find out how many hours are on my light lamp. The picture is getting a little dark, so I think its time to replace.

So basically:
1) What to I press to make the bulb info appear on the screen? **EDIT** I found this, thanks!
2) After how many hours should I replace the bulb? I currently have 2800hrs.
3) After how many hours should I replace the color wheel?
4) Where's a good and affordable place to order a replacement bulb and wheel
5) Can someone tell me the stock "V-Position" setting in the service menu? I think I might have accidentally modified it. I set it to 22. I have the 46" model, if that makes a difference.

Thank you guys very much.

Hey guys,

Haven't been on this forum for awhile, the new design looks great. Can anyone tell me the procedure to make the tech info appear on the screen? I want to find out how many hours are on my light lamp. The picture is getting a little dark, so I think its time to replace.

So basically:
1) What to I press to make the bulb info appear on the screen? **EDIT** I found this, thanks!
2) After how many hours should I replace the bulb? I currently have 2800hrs.
3) After how many hours should I replace the color wheel?
4) Where's a good and affordable place to order a replacement bulb and wheel
5) Can someone tell me the stock "V-Position" setting in the service menu? I think I might have accidentally modified it. I set it to 22. I have the 46" model, if that makes a difference.

Thank you guys very much.

The stock "V-Position" on my 46" Tv is 23.

Hey guys,

Haven't been on this forum for awhile, the new design looks great. Can anyone tell me the procedure to make the tech info appear on the screen? I want to find out how many hours are on my light lamp. The picture is getting a little dark, so I think its time to replace.

So basically:
1) What to I press to make the bulb info appear on the screen? **EDIT** I found this, thanks!
2) After how many hours should I replace the bulb? I currently have 2800hrs.
3) After how many hours should I replace the color wheel?
4) Where's a good and affordable place to order a replacement bulb and wheel
5) Can someone tell me the stock "V-Position" setting in the service menu? I think I might have accidentally modified it. I set it to 22. I have the 46" model, if that makes a difference.

Thank you guys very much.

I find samsung parts direct are not much more, if not cheaper than most places.

Hi. I have a HLR4667W. Got it late April 2006. Started getting pretty dark, had 5100 hours on bulb (avg 10 hours a day yikes), so I replaced it today. Talk about an improvement!! I forgot I had a nice quality HD television. Beautiful images now. Love my TV again.

I'm a bit concerned about all the trouble people have with the color wheels? Does anyone have an old TV, and the color wheel is still going strong?

Can a determined normal human replace the color wheel, or recommend against it? It's such a cheap part, if I could. I don't do too too techy stuff, besides adding memory to computers, adding hard drives, installing satellite dish on roof, etc.

Is this on a major tough level to do yourself?

Or is there hope I can go a few years without the color wheel even breaking?

Hi. I have a HLR4667W. Got it late April 2006. Started getting pretty dark, had 5100 hours on bulb (avg 10 hours a day yikes), so I replaced it today. Talk about an improvement!! I forgot I had a nice quality HD television. Beautiful images now. Love my TV again.

I'm a bit concerned about all the trouble people have with the color wheels? Does anyone have an old TV, and the color wheel is still going strong?


My HLR5067W is older than yours (bought it in Oct. '05) and the color wheel seems to be going strong still. But I'm guesstimating that there are only about ~3000 hours on it. Since you've used your HLR more, this probably doesn't help you much.

I just noticed something wrong with my screen. On the far left edge of the screen, there is a small vertical strip, maybe 1/2" thick, that is darker than the rest of the screen. The rest of the picture seems fine, it's just a small strip along the edge where it is significantly darker than the rest. It's not totally black, I can still see the picture. Any idea what could cause this or what I can do to fix it? I could try to take a picture and post it if you guys think that would help. Thanks.

I just noticed something wrong with my screen. On the far left edge of the screen, there is a small vertical strip, maybe 1/2" thick, that is darker than the rest of the screen. The rest of the picture seems fine, it's just a small strip along the edge where it is significantly darker than the rest. It's not totally black, I can still see the picture. Any idea what could cause this or what I can do to fix it? I could try to take a picture and post it if you guys think that would help. Thanks.

RU serious? It's the light tunnel (see other threads)

I'm actually beyond you - bought mine in August of 05 and I'm up over 6000 hours at last check. It's time to replace it though - I'm up to about 65 brightness and have to lower the contrast down to about 70 to prevent blooming and the whites are going gray on me... overall image is getting dim.... but the blacks have never been better! hehe...

I guarantee if you replace it you'll see a dramatic difference at this point. You may have to switch over to dynamic mode if your whites get too dingy... but that will burn the remainder of the bulb out even faster. Start lining up your replacement now.


Hi,
I'm about exactly where you described....Thats crazy...I'm at 6400 hrs, I have my brightness at around 62 and contrast around 74. Cant brighten anymore without grays, and contrast blooms if higher. Just cant get the right level of brightness, everything is darker and to make matters worse, the room we are using is very bright at times. So I ordered a new lamp today. Had my set (HL-R4266W) for 1 year 11 months. Really hard to explain to the wife that we need a 180 dollar lamp every 2 years.

Just thought I would share.

Greetings! I'm a newbie, and just started having an issue with my HLR5667W - not sure if its a bulb, or colorwheel, or what. first thing to mention is that I've had to press the on and off switch a few times in order for the tv to turn on/off. this started a few days ago, and the pic will usually be fine when i turn on the tv (i was watching the MNF game for about 10 minutes), then pic will go green, with several horizontal two inch bars of a bright green and the rest a snowy green and red. audio comes through fine. I'd appreciate any and all insight - i'm not the most technical of people. I have a pic that i can email to someone if they drop their email. Thanks in advance!

Greetings! I'm a newbie, and just started having an issue with my HLR5667W - not sure if its a bulb, or colorwheel, or what. first thing to mention is that I've had to press the on and off switch a few times in order for the tv to turn on/off. this started a few days ago, and the pic will usually be fine when i turn on the tv (i was watching the MNF game for about 10 minutes), then pic will go green, with several horizontal two inch bars of a bright green and the rest a snowy green and red. audio comes through fine. I'd appreciate any and all insight - i'm not the most technical of people. I have a pic that i can email to someone if they drop their email. Thanks in advance!

If you're using the HDMI connection, make sure it's tight and stays tight. I had similar problems and opening and closing the curtain behind the set brushed the cable enough to cause it.

I used a small strip of metal and a couple tacks to hold the HDMI cable against the entertainment center and haven't had trouble since.

If you're not using HDMI, sorry, I don't know.

not a hdmi connection. but thanks.

I hope someone can help me with this.
A little background:
Samsung HLR5067
Direct hr20 dvr
Sony PS3
None of these devices will show up on my HDMI input. I have tried replacing the HDMI cable with no luck. PS3 did work and then one day didnt DVR has never worked since I just recently installed it. HDMI does not even show up as input when I scroll sources. Went into service menu and found HDMI under CCA, When I chose HDMI, cycled power HDMI appeared with message saying to check cable. Lamp only has 2800hrs.
Previous post's have said to rename source to game or other input and this still has not helped. I would like to try to avoid service call if possible because local service is not very good.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I just noticed something wrong with my screen. On the far left edge of the screen, there is a small vertical strip, maybe 1/2" thick, that is darker than the rest of the screen. The rest of the picture seems fine, it's just a small strip along the edge where it is significantly darker than the rest. It's not totally black, I can still see the picture. Any idea what could cause this or what I can do to fix it? I could try to take a picture and post it if you guys think that would help. Thanks.


iporcinis, I noticed you were posting about a high pitched whine coming from your set in August of last year. You posted that you had your color wheel replaced (bad bearing?). Did that do the trick?

iporcinis, I noticed you were posting about a high pitched whine coming from your set in August of last year. You posted that you had your color wheel replaced (bad bearing?). Did that do the trick?

If it wasn't his wife then it has to be the fan or color wheel.:)

I hope someone can help me with this.
A little background:
Samsung HLR5067
Direct hr20 dvr
Sony PS3
None of these devices will show up on my HDMI input. I have tried replacing the HDMI cable with no luck. PS3 did work and then one day didnt DVR has never worked since I just recently installed it. HDMI does not even show up as input when I scroll sources. Went into service menu and found HDMI under CCA, When I chose HDMI, cycled power HDMI appeared with message saying to check cable. Lamp only has 2800hrs.
Previous post's have said to rename source to game or other input and this still has not helped. I would like to try to avoid service call if possible because local service is not very good.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Did you turn and plug in the device before you try to configure the input?

If it wasn't his wife then it has to be the fan or color wheel.:)

:)

Just received one of these (50") two days ago. It was a warranty replacement for a 3.5 year old Hitachi RP CRT. Sept 06 manufacture date, 106 hours on the lamp. Seems to be a nice set. I think I've read all 2 million pages of posts. Turned DNIE off and am tweaking other settings now.

It's my first DLP and apparently, I'm one of those who can see the magical rainbows :mad: Oh well, if I don't move my head whilst watching, everything looks fine. The whine is the only issue I have and it's barely perceptible.

Yes, it works through componet. I will leave the DVR on componet but I would like the PS3 on HDMI for the upconversion. I do not have another tv to try the HDMI of the PS3 but the screen does go black when it is selected, the tv just will not bring it up just says no signal check cable. I have tried 4 different ones with the latest being a certified cat3.

does anyone know how much samsung dlp tv's cost
in 2005
My 61" HL-R6167W was $3495.00 -10% + $300.00 gift card + a $110.00 reward zone credit along with zero % finacing for 18 months at BB back in 9/05

Sorry if this has been covered but I am pressed for time.

I bought an A2 and DVE. I'm using the provided filter to adjust the color on my Sammy HL-R4667W. I can get it where the blue and red are the same intensity, but not the green. Any ideas how to do this, or do I need to call BB and have them send a tech?( I have a PSP)

My Dad owns a HL-R4667W hooked up to Directv HR20-700 via HDMI & Component...QAM cable HD Locals via coax...He also has a non-upconverting DVD player. He had a service guy replace what my Dad called "the whole back unit...color wheel and bulb and stuff" :rolleyes: After a day or 2 he started noticing very bad muddy darks with macro-blocking. It's very bad SD channels, but it's noticeable on HD channels, DVDs, & QAM locals. He swears it didn't exist before the tech came. The tech is coming in a few weeks, but I like any advice you all have.

Edit: After hours of research here & note taking, I guess I should change DNie off and Index Delay in the SM. Any other tips?

Well, the local TV repair store has told me that this TV has problems with the main board and will be around $500 for parts and $200 for labor. TV is 4 mo out of warranty and Samsung appears to be no help. Anyone have any suggestions? Anyway to actually prove this before paying?

I have the HLR5067 and I always thought it was 1080i. I know realize that it accepts 1080i, but displays 720p. I have an HD DVD, a HD DVD player, and a Blu Ray player. My question is how noticable would the difference be in going to one of the new Samsung LCD DLP's that display 1080p?

I have the HLR5067 and I always thought it was 1080i. I know realize that it accepts 1080i, but displays 720p. I have an HD DVD, a HD DVD player, and a Blu Ray player. My question is how noticable would the difference be in going to one of the new Samsung LCD DLP's that display 1080p?

Depends on screen size and distance from screen, but 1080 content should looks better displayed at 1080. You could always buy & try.

Hi all, I've had this TV for about a year and a half and until now, having only 1 HDMI port has not been an issue, because I've used that for my DVD player and have had nothing but basic cable, with no HD, cable box/DVR, etc. Well I got a great deal and as of today will now have all the HD programming w/ HD DVR. What's my best option for getting everything properly connected, to where I'm reaping the full rewards of my HD content? An HDMI switch of some kind? I think I've seen that those exist, just not sure which one would be the best value or if that is my optimal solution here.

My receiver is an Onkyo that has no HDMI switching capability.

Thanks in advance!

Check MonoPrice.com and eBay for inexpensive HDMI switchers. I use a cheap remote controlled three port HDMI switcher myself and it works great.

Check MonoPrice.com and eBay for inexpensive HDMI switchers. I use a cheap remote controlled three port HDMI switcher myself and it works great.
I see this one on Monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011301&p_id=3655&seq=1&format=2)... 4 ports for $113, and then most on Ebay seem to go for about $40 shipped (this ugly beast [site won't let me link to it], item 170162797514, is the primary one available on Ebay w/ remote). Are they created pretty much equal? Are there any certain ones that everyone uses and thinks are best? Does it matter if it's "ATC Certified" or not? I assume not, and that this is just a marketing gimmick.

I see this one on Monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10113&cs_id=1011301&p_id=3655&seq=1&format=2)... 4 ports for $113, and then most on Ebay seem to go for about $40 shipped. Are they created pretty much equal? Are there any certain ones that everyone uses and thinks are best? Does it matter if it's "ATC Certified" or not? I assume not, and that this is just a marketing gimmick.

Here's (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=3047&seq=1&format=2) a 2x a monoprice for $32.50. Here's (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=2721&seq=1&format=2) a 4x for $43.50. Both have remotes (whose IR codes can be programmed into universals) and both get good reviews.

If you need cables, get some while you're there.

Here's (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=3047&seq=1&format=2) a 2x a monoprice for $32.50. Here's (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=2721&seq=1&format=2) a 4x for $43.50. Both have remotes (whose IR codes can be programmed into universals) and both get good reviews.

If you need cables, get some while you're there.
Hey, thanks! I will grab this one instead of those junkers on Ebay. I really appreciate the help, and yes, the remote is an important feature for me too, as I will need to get it added to my Harmony.

I see the 3x1 also, though that one is not expected to be in stock until at least 11/7. I could wait, as I only need 2 ports (but would like to have an extra for the future), but the 4x1 is only about a buck more. I wonder about the box's dimensions though -- I'm guessing that both the 3x1 and 4x1 use the same box/case -- can anyone confirm?

Hey, thanks! I will grab this one instead of those junkers on Ebay. I really appreciate the help, and yes, the remote is an important feature for me too, as I will need to get it added to my Harmony.

I see the 3x1 also, though that one is not expected to be in stock until at least 11/7. I could wait, as I only need 2 ports (but would like to have an extra for the future), but the 4x1 is only about a buck more. I wonder about the box's dimensions though -- I'm guessing that both the 3x1 and 4x1 use the same box/case -- can anyone confirm?

Good question. If someone doesn't answer, might give monoprice a call (Email at tech@monoprice.com or Call 1-909-989-6887)

Here's (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=3047&seq=1&format=2) a 2x a monoprice for $32.50. Here's (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011002&p_id=2721&seq=1&format=2) a 4x for $43.50. Both have remotes (whose IR codes can be programmed into universals) and both get good reviews.

If you need cables, get some while you're there.
Well they just came and set up the box (Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HDC)... I didn't realize it would have component outputs too... So I guess I don't even need to worry about HDMI (for my TV viewing) and the HDMI switch, since my understanding is that there is no quality improvement w/ HDMI vs. component? Or is there a compelling reason to go for HDMI?

Another question... Is it a good idea to NOT send the component cables thru my receiver, and just connect them directly to the TV? I had heard that I should do this (direct to TV) in the past, and the cable installers said this too.

Thanks again!

Well they just came and set up the box (Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HDC)... I didn't realize it would have component outputs too... So I guess I don't even need to worry about HDMI (for my TV viewing) and the HDMI switch, since my understanding is that there is no quality improvement w/ HDMI vs. component? Or is there a compelling reason to go for HDMI?

An HDMI connection from your DVR to TV would prevent the digital-analog conversion (some people see a difference in the PQ, some don't). It also requires only 1 cable for video & sound instead of the 5 you'd need using component.

BUT

This set doesn't allow 480i over HDMI. So if you like to have all video passed to your set in its native format, then you'll have to use component. Looks like your DVR can do this (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=471859). If you use HDMI, you'll need to setup your DVR to convert 480i to 480p. Some DVRs do this well; some don't. Play around with the different video setups on your DVR and find the one that looks best to you.

Another question... Is it a good idea to NOT send the component cables thru my receiver, and just connect them directly to the TV? I had heard that I should do this (direct to TV) in the past, and the cable installers said this too.

Thanks again!

Correct. If you're going to use component, I would suggest connecting the 3 component cables + 2 audio cables from your DVR to your TV directly (so you can just turn the set on and watch it with sound). Then connect your DVR to your receiver via optical (for those shows where you want to hear the surround sound).

You're welcome!

After reading and reading this this thread I have two questions:

1. Where do I go to tell how many hours are on the tv?

2. Is there anywhere to see the recommends setting for this tv? i.e. contrast, brightness, etc.?

After reading and reading this this thread I have two questions:
1. Where do I go to tell how many hours are on the tv?
2. Is there anywhere to see the recommends setting for this tv? i.e. contrast, brightness, etc.?
You can find the hours in the service menu... Mute-1-8-2-Power
Recommendations for the settings vary, as you probably saw. A lot depends on personal preference.

Mods, if this post is inappropriate, please delete it.

Are there other codes like that? Do you have a link?

Just encountered a problem: I apologize if there has been any mention of this in the past but if there has been please kindly direct me to it as I don't have a lot of time to read through this entire thready (I really wish I did). Today I was watching satellite via component (HDMI is used by DVD player on my 6167W) and I lost the picture. The screen went black but I could hear sound through my receiver. I changed the channel and I had a picture. Okay, not the STB. A while later while at my laptop I looked back at the TV and had the message that there was no signal or signal was weak (like when you change between inputs but nothing is being sent to it). I took both my DVD player and my PS2 and hooked them up to both of the component inputs and had no results. S-Video, HDMI, RCA work fine...just not component. From the time I have searched I haven't seen anyone talk about any problem like this. Has anyone experienced something similar and found a solution? Also, what is the method to accessing the service menu? I know the code is Mute-1-8-2-Power but how do I use it? TV is on or off? Buttons pressed simultaneously or in sequence?

I know the code is Mute-1-8-2-Power but how do I use it? TV is on or off? Buttons pressed simultaneously or in sequence?
Unfortunately I can't help you with your problem, but I can answer your question about the service menu. Start with the TV off and press the buttons in sequence. When the TV turns on, it will come on in the service menu.

Thanks jayfore. I ended up finding that on another forum after I was able to put my son to bed. I believe I have created another problem. Worse than the previous really because I could always buy a DVI to HDMI cable and HDMI splitter to create a workaround for the previous problem. I entered the SM and started to browse as it was the first time ever seeing a SM. After checking some things such as the Index Delay and others that I had seen posted here (mine is defaulted to 43) I saw the Engine selection under the service tab. Out of curiousity I decided to see what options there were.... hehem... Mistake. Curiousity killed the cat as they say. On my 6167W when I hit the left arrow on the remote the screen flipped upside down and it appeared to say Zeiss as opposed to Samsung. I hit back right and got it back to 'normal'. Hitting right continually does 'nothing' except a flicker resulting in the same 'image' of the Engine: SAMSUNG in the top left. The issue is now the light blue input info (i.e. Component, HDMI, etc. when you were to hit the Source button for example) along with my image is big time screen door. I can clearly see the pixels from 6 feet away. It was immediately evident when I saw the input info. What have I done and is there any way to do a complete factory reset to resolve it and/or another method that would not disturb other things (i.e. lamp life which is at 4747 hrs BTW) MAN, WHAT A JACKASS!!!!!!

I noticed in another forum that there were some directions to adjusting the Index Delay. After changing the Index Delay value, say from 43 to 42 as that seems to be a magic number for everyone, one should then hit the User Reset 'key'/function. From the there the TV will turn off (and then on again I think) automatically. Do you think this could solve my issue if I were to 'change' the Engine from one back to the other and then do a User Reset? I don't know what really happens if you just exit out of the menu without doing a User Reset say for Index Delay. I am a total newbie to the SM so if someone wrote a walkthru for this series of TV and the SM please guide me to it as I will read with enthusiasm. If I can get my TV back to the non screen door effect then I will quietly go by a couple of rather inexpensive components and solve my issue by going strictly HDMI (although this won't solve my issue for my PS2 unless I buy another cable for that...)

I saw a few posts on this, but haven't really found an answer, so please don't hate me for posting this.......

I have a strange problem with my Samsung HL-R4266W:

I just upgraded all of my video devices to HDMI (Toshiba A2, Playstation 3, Onkyo SR705 receiver), and I have a problem: the screen kept flashing in weird colors, or I get the no signal or weak signal box. I found that if I wiggled the HDMI cable that is plugged into the TV it would work for a bit, then start flashing colors again. I can get the cable to work if I hold it a certain way, but I can prop it so I don't have to hold it.

So it works, but the big problem is that after doing this 2 weeks ago, I will be watching TV (my cable box is connected to the component input on the TV, NOT the receiver's HDMI) the TV will just turn off, like someone hit the power button. It has happened 3 times in the past few weeks. It happened last night, and I could not turn the TV back on, so I unplugged the HDMI cable from the TV and was able to turn it on.

I have even swapped out the HDMI cable to the TV 2 times with different brands, and it still seems to happen. I fear that there is an issue with the HDMI input on the TV and it is, of course, out of warranty.

Has anyone experienced this before??????

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!


Ken

Ken, it sounds like you need a repair.

Normally a flashing colors problem points to cheaply made cables - moving them doesn't change anything. Besides, I would expect you already know to use Monoprice quality or equivalent cables. Jiggling the connection is the tipoff.

So it may be time to belly up to the bar or just write off HDMI as an option.

Ken, it sounds like you need a repair.

Normally a flashing colors problem points to cheaply made cables - moving them doesn't change anything. Besides, I would expect you already know to use Monoprice quality or equivalent cables. Jiggling the connection is the tipoff.

So it may be time to belly up to the bar or just write off HDMI as an option.

I had gotten some cables from a local electronics store, and no luck, but I just ordered a 6ft. HDMI cale from Monoprice now, so we will see.

Thanks for the reply!!

Ken

Need some help if possible. My brother has the rf667w since 7/06. Just recently all connections stopped working. Wasn't using HDMI but did have component, s-video hooked up. basically the tv is running through a cycle on its own. The picture is distorted, can't get any menus to pull up. Tried the service menu combination on the remote and the tv did not respond. Just goes through its cycle then turns off and back on. As soon as you plug the power cord in, the cycle begins.


TV is of course out of warranty and no samsung said to call a repair shop. Think it is the main board?

I am a lurker who finally registered because of my new issues.

About 3 days ago, there was a loud pop and my screen went black on my Samsung HL-R5067. When I would turn it on, the lamp would flicker with a scratching sound. I looked at in the back and it seemed to be the lamp for sure. I ordered a new one from Samsung and installed it in minutes. When I turn it on now, the picture looks great. Except that it only stays on for 15-20 seconds and then the TV resets itself, the good picture comes back up, and then it shuts itself off again. Any ideas about how to get the TV to stay on. I tried holding the power button on and it sort of reset the cycling, but then it started all over again.

I called Samsung and all they could offer was to set up a technician. I did that, but want to know what I might be in store for. Is it the light engine? Is that really a $900 repair? I'd rather just get a new, smaller 1080p TV for that cost. There are no sounds coming from the TV, so I don't think it is a color wheel issue, but I am open to anything.

Hi, I apologize in advance if this topic has already been covered.

I currently have an Xbox 360 Elite hooked up to my HL-R4667W via HDMI cable. The Xbox Elite will only allow you to use HDMI as your output source if you choose to do so (the connector for all other means of output become blocked when you plug in the HDMI cable into the Xbox). This means that when I plug the HDMI cable into the HL-R4667W, I need to use the Optical Out from the TV to my Receiver to get DD5.1 sound. When I tried this I was only getting Stereo sound. I checked the digital output settings on the HL-R4667W and it was greyed out and fixed on "PCM." This has been pretty frustrating since I cannot watch HD DVDs or play games in 1080i without having to sacrifice the sound.

I know the HL-R4667W is capable of outputting DD5.1 because it does it just fine when I am watching HDTV over the air. Is there something up with the HL-R4667W where it cannot decode DD sources through the HDMI input? Also, the Xbox 360 Elite only supports HDMI 1.2 (if this matters at all).

Thanks for the help.

Just out of curiousity, why wouldn't you just run the audio directly to the receiver as opposed to through the TV since you have to use an optical from the TV to the receiver anyway?

vic, this is directly from the Samsung website:

Can The HDMI Input On Samsung TVs Pass Digital 5.1 Surround Sound To The Digital Optical Output?


The HDMI input on Samsung TVs can not pass digital 5.1 Surround Sound to the Digital Optical output jack.

If you want digital video and digital 5.1 sound, you must connect the video output of your source to your TV using DVI or HDMI, and connect the digital audio output from your source directly to the digital audio input of your Home Theater System or Stereo.

Thanks for the reply localmotion00. As I mentioned in my original post due to the XBox 360's design, it blocks all other means of output when you use HDMI.

Thank you Microsoft for that bit of genius. So unless you have a receiver with HDMI or a TV that can output the digital audio signal sent from the HDMI the HDMI is virtually useless on the XBOX if you want to have DD.

My apologies for the inaccuracy. The Xbox 360 Elite actually comes with a smaller audio adapter so you can use HDMI and RCA/Optical audio output. However, when using the HDMI + Optical setup, there is a very slight amount of lip synch.

The optical port is only for OTA.

For xbox 360, HDMI will feed the stereo speakers on the tv, but you will need the optical dongle OR hack the original component cables (remove everything but the optical jack) and bend upwards- there are threads about this in the xbox forum with pictures. I did the component cable mod so I can use the tv for stereo sound when I want to be quiet, or use 5.1 to rock the house.

I find the tv (hl-r4667w) has no noticeable lag using hdmi.

OK here is my problem:

I received a Samsung HL-R5667W from a friend who gave up on it. He said that for awhile it would work and then shut off and after he let it cool down it would turn back on and work again. Well he replaced the lamp in it now when you turn it on the green lamp light flashes on the front power button for about 20 seconds and you can see the bulb come on but no picture. Well after about 2 minutes the standby/temp light comes on. I'm thinking its a cooling fan and i even tried calling the only 2 places i could find that works on these tvs within 30 miles of me and 1 is going out of business and the other one is all booked up through jan.. It's out of warranty so they don't really care. If anyone else could let me know what they think is wrong I'd appriciate it. I build computers and work on arcade games and pinballs so I'm thinking of just replacing whatever i not working myself if i can find a good guide. So any advice is appriciated.

if you need a service manual i have it in .pdf format. I can send it to you via email if you'd like. The parts are ridiculously expensive if you need anything important however.

Wow thanks! Thanks to bastards at Envision and UPS I was without a TV regardless that I was under warranty and had insurance (someone broke the TV). So I bidded on ebay for the Samsung HLS4266W. I had read the reviews and was conflicted on the purchase but since I as drunk win I won the bid I was stuck. The default setting of dynamic are awful but thanks to elaibs and others I was able to get an almost perfect pic. I went into the service menu and changed my index relay from 53 to 42, turned off DNIE (looks like ass) but kept DNR on. I slighty tweaked elaib setting since I prefer a brighter more cooler tone but all the grain is gone. Transformers on HD-DVD rocks. I haven't notice black grass so maybe I lucked out. But I'm quite happy with my TV. One question I checked out my bulb life and it was 489hrs, but I accidentally resetted everthing to the factory settings and now the bulb life shows 0. Not cool what if Samsung could do the same???

I've had this set since nov of 05. Still on the same bulb although I think the time is coming for a replacement bulb. I have also had the light engine and the color wheel replaced.

Recently i've had a new problem. I have my Xbox 360 connected via VGA. I noticed awhile ago when playing Bioshock(on the loading screen) that the edges of the picture were being cut off on "wide tv" mode. So, I switched to "wide PC" and adjusted accordingly. It was much better as I could view the full loading screen with a small border around the picture.

Recently, It seems my whole picture shifts up after a day or so. And I will have to go back and re-adjust the screen with the wide pc options. The next day it will be shifted again. Annoying to say the least!

Anyone else ever experiance anything like this? And if so a way to resolve it? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

i'm having a small issue if anyone is still monitoring this thread... while i'm watching tv my info box will pop up out of no where, and it will happen like 3 times in a row. its only annoying but i was wondering if anyone else knew what i was talking about. also i was curious if any firmware updates were ever released for this set

thanks
matt

i'm having a small issue if anyone is still monitoring this thread... while i'm watching tv my info box will pop up out of no where, and it will happen like 3 times in a row. its only annoying but i was wondering if anyone else knew what i was talking about. also i was curious if any firmware updates were ever released for this set
thanks
matt
My HLR does that too, when watching the tuner input. Up pops the station info in the upper left hand corner of the screen. Seems to do it near the hour and half hour but sometimes it's very random.

i have nothing plugged into any of the other inputs so i can't check it... maybe its something as simple as the info being sent from the station? If it doesn't happen on the component or HDMI inputs i won't really worry about it.. but i can't check till i get a new cable hook up or the PS3 i was planning on

I have a question that I can not find an answer to, and the sad thing is, it is so simple and I am so stupid. I have the hlr5567 that I bought about 19 months ago. I always thought I had bought a 1080i TV. In fact, when I press info on the remote, it say it is broadcasting in 1920x1080i resolution. Messing around at work, I find this forums saying it is a 720p DLP TV. When I check Samsung, it says it is a 720p TV. Now for the questions.

1. Why when I press info does it say 1920x1080i?

2. Should I set my xbox360 to broadcast at 720p or 1080i? (It is currently set at 1080i at looks fine)

3. Why did the jerkoff at BB tell me I was buying a 1080i tv?

Please help because I am just learning about all this, (yes after 19 months) and it is fascinating to me. I JUST learned what calibrating your TV was! I will never get any work done now.

bump!!

The samsung HL-R series is built with a 720p light engine and that is the only resolution that can be displayed. However, any broadcast resolution can be received and decoded. The HL-R will convert any non-720p signal into 720p for display by the light engine.

I would set the xbox to 720p since that's how it will end up anyway.

The salesman was partially right because you can receive a 1080i signal, just not display it. In other words, he lied.

I've had this set since nov of 05. Still on the same bulb although I think the time is coming for a replacement bulb. I have also had the light engine and the color wheel replaced.

Recently i've had a new problem. I have my Xbox 360 connected via VGA. I noticed awhile ago when playing Bioshock(on the loading screen) that the edges of the picture were being cut off on "wide tv" mode. So, I switched to "wide PC" and adjusted accordingly. It was much better as I could view the full loading screen with a small border around the picture.

Recently, It seems my whole picture shifts up after a day or so. And I will have to go back and re-adjust the screen with the wide pc options. The next day it will be shifted again. Annoying to say the least!

Anyone else ever experiance anything like this? And if so a way to resolve it? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


I have experienced the same thing. I often have to readjust the image on the screen. I am not sure if it always moves up, but it does move. I haven't found a fix though. I am just living with it. Anybody else?

I may have found a fix. It seems to happen when I turn on my X-box before the TV and maybe turning off the TV before the box. I'm 80% sure this is the problem but I need more trial and error. I do know it does not happen nearly as much now that I'm making sure to do this.

Caffeine: do you use the VGA input too? Test this out some and see if this works for you and report back. Thanks!

Wow, thanks for your reply. That is sobering. So now time to change all of my settings. Well, I just received my dve disk for calibrating and am waiting for my new hdmi cables from monoprice. I have a HK 247 receiver, a scientific atlanta 8300 hd pvr, oppo 971 dvd player, and a 7.1 polk audio sytem. If I go full hdmi through the receiver, audio and video, (I currently use optical or coaxial depending on the component, and I don't know why because I am currently using cheap hdmi cables from amazon and just decided to go through monoprice after reading on this forum), switch everything to 720p, the way it was supposed to be, and then calibrate everything as close as I can, can I expect some improvement? I thought I had everything dialed in pretty good as it was and it turns out I was way off.

Hello all, this is only my second post on this forum and I would like some information. If possible please help! I have a Samsung 50" DLP HLT5075S. I also have a Toshiba HD-A30 1080P Dvd player. My question is does anyone who owns this same tv have a problem with the picture looking like it has "snow" in the background. The picture does not seem "crystal clear" by any means. My HD player is hooked up via HDMI and I am not very impressed. I have read several reviews on how great the picture is for both the TV and Dvd player but have not been able to achieve the same results. Could it be my TV?

I just had my light engine for my HLR4266 replaced. The morons did nothing in the service menu to calibrate the display. I had to get another service tech out here and he got into the service menu and used his eye to set the picture to a reasonable state. I also had him show me how to get into the service menu. I would have found here of course.

Now, I need some advice. I want to start getting my tv display back to beautiful again so, is there any place I can that can tell me what these hundred so called setting I'm seeing in the service are? So far, I've only adjusted the gamma from 2 to 0 and that really made an improvement. I wont touch the other adjustable items until I know what they are, and what to look for when setting them. So, can someone direct me to a site that has all of these items in the service menu explained?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jerry

You guys remember that with high def sources it's arguable whether there's ample justification for purchasing 1080p over 720p since the qualitative differences for the most part only present themselves in extremely close up viewing or very large screen diameters. Only the advances made in video scalers (for watching sd) is reason enough to buy something new. Enjoy the ride! :)

Try these settings:
Contrast 100
Brightness 45
Sharpness 0
Color 60
DNIE Off
Digital NR Off

Service Mode :

GAMMA 0
INDEX DELAY 37

RED_C_COEFF 128
GRN_C_COEFF 108
BLU_C_COEFF 93
RED_B_COEFF 128
GRN_B_COEFF 127
BLU_B_COEFF 128

Sub_Contrast 112
Sub_Brightness 246

Red-x 646
Red-y 332
Red-Y 52
Green-x 285
Green-y 666
Green-Y 152
Blue-x 151
Blue-y 57
Blue-Y 16
White-x 313
White-y 329
White-Y 216

DRedX 643
DRedY 332
DGreenX 318
DGreenY 601
DBlueX 151
DBlueY 57
DCyanX 235
DCyanY 335
DMagentaX 310
DMagentaY 154
DYellowX 420
DYellowY 512
D-White-X 313
D-White-Y 329

NR_MAX Y/C..........48 >> 0
NR_MIN Y/C...........16 >> 0
Core........................4 >> 0
B_RATIO..........12000 >> 0
BLACK_TILT.........120 >> 0
W_RATIO.........12000 >> 0
WHITE_TILT.........200 >> 0
GAIN 1X.................16 >> 0
GAIN 1Y.................12 >> 0
GAIN 2X...................8 >> 0
GAIN 2Y...................4 >> 0
GAIN 3X...................1 >> 0
NDON....................ON >> OFF
CORING_ON..........ON >> OFF
SCALE_R................92 >> 0
WTE_CSC.........YCCRGB >> no change
DITHER_MOD...........0 >> no change

You may need to the adjust the brightness and contrast. Also I never realized how great my picture could be until I did the manual focus ring adjustment. Also try adjusting your sp actuator,and your index delay. You want to turn off the noise reduction and disable all the DNIe Service Menu Items. Also get a calibration DVD, I like GetGrey. Do all of these adjustments at your own risk....write down or take pictures of your default service menu settings before you start doing anything.

My HLR does that too, when watching the tuner input. Up pops the station info in the upper left hand corner of the screen. Seems to do it near the hour and half hour but sometimes it's very random.

Happens to mine too...:confused:

... Also I never realized how great my picture could be until I did the manual focus ring adjustment. Sounds like a projector operation. Could you eleborate?

check out the attachments on post 20
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=674513

check out the attachments on post 20
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=674513A little light reading I see? Some thread that is. My gearhead days are mostly behind me, but I have been known to be curious in pursuit of A/V excellence. My set's bulb is getting up there so I may (very gingerly) tinker and futz some along with changing it in near future. I've changed my index delay sometime ago but did not try adjusting sp actuator, I take it that's discussed in the thread also? If it's simple I will consider it. Thanks for posting and the picture links!

For the SP Actuator adjust "Actu Gain" both up and down until the sawtooth texture just becomes visible inside the strokes of the cross patterns. Average the upper and lower values for the final entry. Mine is currently 108.

I have a 5067 that's a little over a year and a half old. About 2 weeks ago I started getting some strange colors showing up on my screen. Almost like a neon green, blue, red in place of normal colors. It doesn't show up on the entire screen and comes in horizontal bars that vary in size. This problem doesn't show up when the screen displays black or white though.

At first I thought this was an issue with my Onkyo 875 so I plugged my cable box directly to the tv and same result. Then I tried swapping the HDMI cable 3 times and same result. Same when I try component.

Does anyone have any experience with this? Could this be a bulb issue, color wheel, digital board, etc?

Thanks in advance.

I have a 5067 that's a little over a year and a half old. About 2 weeks ago I started getting some strange colors showing up on my screen. Almost like a neon green, blue, red in place of normal colors. It doesn't show up on the entire screen and comes in horizontal bars that vary in size. This problem doesn't show up when the screen displays black or white though.

At first I thought this was an issue with my Onkyo 875 so I plugged my cable box directly to the tv and same result. Then I tried swapping the HDMI cable 3 times and same result. Same when I try component.

Does anyone have any experience with this? Could this be a bulb issue, color wheel, digital board, etc?

Thanks in advance.

Where do you have your surround sound speakers? Are they too close to your tv?

I have a 5.1 system with the center underneath the TV and 2 floor standing fronts that are about a foot away from the TV. I've had this setup since I've gotten the TV and have never had a problem in the past.

A few weeks ago our set started turning itself off about 5-10 minutes after it was turned on. You could turn it right back on and then about 3-5 minutes later it would do it again. Turn it back on and it would run just fine for as long as you wanted.

I called to have a service tech come out and he ended up replacing the bulb. For the first day there were some strange things that happened -- screen flickering, etc.

Now about a week-and-a-half later the TV set has just turned itself off about 10 times in a row.

Any clues?

FWIW, the rep said that the set had plenty of ventilation space behind it so that shouldn't be an issue.

I've already got a call in for them to come back out. This is kind of frustrating but makes me glad I got an extended service plan.

*Update* I unplugged the TV for about 30 minutes and then plugged it back in. Now the picture keeps going away but the TV does not turn off. When the pic comes back, there is green horizontal lines going across it, then the picture freezes, when it comes back it looks like it is in slow-mo. Now it just got yellow and green diagonal lines across it and turned off. Nice.

Light engine?

I am having the same problem as dkny75... Any insight would be greatly appreciated here... I have an HLR5067, and I recently had the light engine assembly and digital main board replaced (due to the t.v. shutting itself off and constantly cycling). However, a month after having this work done, my t.v. is now showing horizontal lines across the screen with shades of green, blue, and red/pink/purple (especially bad in white areas). Is my problem with the color wheel, or do I potentially have a bad light engine or digital board? Thanks!!

this just started and the best way to describe it is to show the picture i uploaded to flickr.com

h t t p://www.flickr.com/photos/23760603@N07/2262584891/

cant link it since this is my first post. it almost seems like the picture goes back to normal if i gently shake the set...not sure if its coinsedence or not. Also i am stationed in the Azores, there is an authorized Samsung repair guy on the island, but i have to pay for it since its out of the country...i might have to take it there if i can't get any answers here.

sorry if this has been posted before, but 100+ pages of posts is a bit much to skim through lol

I recently purchased Spyder2 to calibrate my LCD monitors and liked the results. Now I would like to see if I can use it with my 3 year old HL-R5067W, which I only used DVE for some simple settings in the past. Did some research here and learning the basics. I tried dewar1234's settings but had to change most parameters back, kept white-x, white-y, D-white-x and D-white-y, the ones that turn off DNIE, gamma, and index delay. I found this guide avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11301427&&#post11301427. The service menu settings seams to be similar. Do you guys think that I can follow the same steps? Another thought: if I connect the TV to a laptop/HTPC and get a .icm profile, is it possible to read the .icm file and tweak the service menu settings accordingly to make things earsier?

Try these settings:
...


what's your firmware version please?

dont know

One night, there was a loud pop and my screen was light green and flashing. I turned it off. 10 minutes later, I turned on the TV, the screen went black on my Samsung HL-R5067W. When I would turn it on, the switch would flicker and a scratching sound can be heard (I guess the color wheel), and then went smoothly.
I ordered a new bulb from Samsung and installed it. When I turn it on, the screen is still dark. The only "Lamp" LED on the power button keeps flashing for 20 seconds, then the "Stanby" LED flashes on about a coulpe of seconds, and then the "Lamp" LED flashes on. The cycle will continues unless I unplug the power. (Pressing the power button on TV or remote does not work)
Any ideas about my TV acting like that? Can it be ballast, board, engine light??? Anyone experienced the same problem?

Try these settings:
.
.
.
You may need to the adjust the brightness and contrast. Also I never realized how great my picture could be until I did the manual focus ring adjustment. Also try adjusting your sp actuator,and your index delay. You want to turn off the noise reduction and disable all the DNIe Service Menu Items. Also get a calibration DVD, I like GetGrey. Do all of these adjustments at your own risk....write down or take pictures of your default service menu settings before you start doing anything.

I was playing around with these setting and my Tv looks horrible when I did all of that. the images are blotchy. What did I miss?

i think it the index delay setting...try 46

I searched through the posts but didn't notice anything about weird bulb hours in the service menu.

I have started to have problems with my HLR5667W the past few weeks. Every once in a while, happening more often now, the screen goes black and the Timer and Standby lights blink. Normally turning it off for a few minutes and then back on resolves the problem. Once or twice it was all three lights blinking.

Last couple of times the power button had no effect and I had to unplug the TV. Again after a few minutes plugging it in brings the picture back with no apparent problems.

I decided to go in and take a look at the hours on the current lamp as I figured it was getting close to replacing it. I have an extended warranty with Circuit City (no - not looking forward to dealing with them on this) and am planning on calling then on Monday.

When I looked at the option screen the lamp life is listed as 179315938h! I am assuming that it is supposed to be displaying the number of hours and I am also assuming that 179 million hours is a little unrealistic!

Anyone else ever see something like this? Am I misreading the display and making the wrong assumption on the value?

I don't want to even think about bulb replacement, but what I can gather the ballast has to be replaced too sometimes. Maybe a tech can weigh in on this. It may well be worth having it done professionally -- and twisting CC's arm if need be. Knock on wood, my bulb is just NEAR getting older. Ack!

Anyone ever experienced a display problem like this on their Samsung DLP?

http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/5802/imgp2780xh8.jpg

This is a HLR-5067W. This happens every few days on the satellite input (s-video, coaxial, regular AV cables--doesn't matter), and when using an antenna.

HDMI DVD player and Nintendo Wii are crystal clear. If I unplug the TV, the picture is clear for a few days. No, it's not the satellite box--other TVs work just fine when plugged in, plus there's no improvement in the 5067's picture when switching between cable types.

If I don't unplug the TV, the problem will get even worse--with this awful green flickering. Yet the TV menus (volume, display, etc. are clear).

This problem seemed to start around the same time we got the Wii, about a month ago, but unplugging everything and moving it away from the TV doesn't seem to change the problem. The repair guy sent by Samsung (we're way out of warranty) wants to replace the digital board, but I don't want to shell out that kind of cash without knowing the problem will be fixed for sure.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

-justin

HL-R6167 had color wheel (exploded wheel pieces everywhere) replaced by BB Contract Tech. I have complained that it has lost HD look of picture, not crisp, focus looks off and pastel looking colors; kinda like VHS looking. Had them back out twice, says no more he can do, and there is no focus adjustment, done at factory only. No instruments used to set up TV, Tech stood in front and going through Service menu played with settings. He did set numbers up from new color wheel tag.
Is there a focus adjustment?
Now I am left to throw myself to the mercy of BB for another Tech to come out and maybe say replacement is in order.
Below are my settings.

Contrast 100
Brightness 45
Sharpness 0
Color 60
DNIE Off
Digital NR Off

(IN DDP1011(L6))
GAMMA 0 2
INDEX DELAY 60

RED_C_COEFF 128
GRN_C_COEFF 128
BLU_C_COEFF 128
RED_B_COEFF 128
GRN_B_COEFF 128
BLU_B_COEFF 128

Sub_Contrast 105
Sub_Brightness 235

(IN CCA IN SM)
Red-x 647
Red-y 344
Red-Y 127
Green-x 283
Green-y 629
Green-Y 504
Blue-x 146
Blue-y 62
Blue-Y 63
White-x 286
White-y 317
White-Y 701

DRedX 640
DRedY 340
DGreenX 300
DGreenY 620
DBlueX 150
DBlueY 60
DCyanX 205
DCyanY 270
DMagentaX 290
DMagentaY 140
DYellowX 425
DYellowY 515
D-White-X 291
D-White-Y 300



NR_MAX Y/C 48
NR_MIN Y/C 16
Core 4
B_RATIO 12000
BLACK_TILT 120
W_RATIO 12000
WHITE_TILT 200
GAIN 1X 16
GAIN 1Y 12
GAIN 2X 8
GAIN 2Y 4
GAIN 3X 1
NDON ON
CORING_ON ON
SCALE_R 92
WTE_CSC YCCRGB
DITHER_MOD 0


M=MAIN : SERVICE, MODE : DTV1, RES : 1080I

V-POSITION 29
H-POSITION 55
LAMP SYNC PULSE
ACCTUATOR GAIN 115
INDEX DELAY 60
CCA
LAMP CLEAR
USER RESET


MAIN : DDP1011(L6), MODE : DTV1, RES 108I

V-POSITION 29
H-POSITION 55
LAMP SYNC PULSE
INDEX DELAY 60
SEQ SELECT 0x5
V-FLIP NORMAL
H-FLIP NORMAL
GAMMA 2
SLR OFF
DMD BIAS
LAMP BOOST 20
LAMP SYNC DELAY 0
TEST PATTERN 0

check out the attachments on post 20. I have done this, it not too hard. It really helps.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7608050&&#post7608050

your index delay is very high, it should be in the mid 40's. check out this link I found. it has come in handy for me many times.

http://www.mikeyp.com/weblog/entertainment/samsunghlr4667wservicemenu.html

dewar 1234,

Thanks for the info. BB is sending a different repairman out on Tuesday.
I will see what happens. I am sure this set can be aligned. I will do it myself after all remedies have failed and I am stuck. I am a retired Civil Service Electronics Tech. and am dying to jump in, but I bought an extended warranty that is good till July 09.

Thanks Again
Phil

I've gone through this board, but haven't seem anything quite like the problem I'm having. I have an HLR5067W. It went into screen black/sound on mode, and the remote and side buttons have no effect. To power it off, I have to unplug it. When I plug it back in, the power comes on, the picture and sound come on, and I can control it for ~30 seconds - then the picture goes to black, the sound is on, and no control. When I press a control button on the remote, the "Timer" light flashes in the power button. Any ideas??

Thanks....

New BB repair tech came out today.
He set up Pat Gen and made adjustments including lowering the index delay.
In his checks he found the problem is actually convergence;
no adjustments for that. He is putting in for a light engine replacement.
I will know what BB wants to do in 2-3 days. $1200 repair.

Anyone ever experienced a display problem like this on their Samsung DLP?

http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/5802/imgp2780xh8.jpg

This is a HLR-5067W. This happens every few days on the satellite input (s-video, coaxial, regular AV cables--doesn't matter), and when using an antenna.

HDMI DVD player and Nintendo Wii are crystal clear. If I unplug the TV, the picture is clear for a few days. No, it's not the satellite box--other TVs work just fine when plugged in, plus there's no improvement in the 5067's picture when switching between cable types.

If I don't unplug the TV, the problem will get even worse--with this awful green flickering. Yet the TV menus (volume, display, etc. are clear).

This problem seemed to start around the same time we got the Wii, about a month ago, but unplugging everything and moving it away from the TV doesn't seem to change the problem. The repair guy sent by Samsung (we're way out of warranty) wants to replace the digital board, but I don't want to shell out that kind of cash without knowing the problem will be fixed for sure.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

-justin

Bump. No one has any ideas? Guess I'll keep switching off the power strip when it messes up. Not ready to spend $650 on this--at least until it gets worse.

If anyone has any thoughts, please post them. I'll check back periodically. Thanks.
-justin

I have a spider living inside my HLR5067w. When it's walking on the back of the screen, it's tiny, about the size of a puck when watching hockey. When it's hanging closer to the light bulb, its shadow gets pretty big.

Should I be worried? What if it dies on the back of the screen? What if it crawls into the color wheel while it's spinning?

I assume spraying bug spray into the tv isn't a good idea, but what options do I have?:confused:

I've gone through this board, but haven't seem anything quite like the problem I'm having. I have an HLR5067W. It went into screen black/sound on mode, and the remote and side buttons have no effect. To power it off, I have to unplug it. When I plug it back in, the power comes on, the picture and sound come on, and I can control it for ~30 seconds - then the picture goes to black, the sound is on, and no control. When I press a control button on the remote, the "Timer" light flashes in the power button. Any ideas??

Thanks....

Sounds like the logic board is faulty. Is it under warranty?

I have a spider living inside my HLR5067w. When it's walking on the back of the screen, it's tiny, about the size of a puck when watching hockey. When it's hanging closer to the light bulb, its shadow gets pretty big.

Should I be worried? What if it dies on the back of the screen? What if it crawls into the color wheel while it's spinning?

I assume spraying bug spray into the tv isn't a good idea, but what options do I have?:confused:

open the sucker up and see if you can take it out with one of those air dusters. Don't be too afraid to open up the casing. I've done it a few times and everything is pretty much straight forward. Just remember how it was put together.

My TV is almost 3 yrs old. For several days it had been making a grinding noise at shutdown. It sounded like a fan problem. Then it wouldn't turn on at all and the front lights flashed indicating a bad bulb. I took out the buld and the filament looked fine. I assumed the buld had its own fan, and when I saw that it didn't I knew I had another problem. I blew some dust out , particularly near the fan near the bulb, put it back together and it worked fine! I figured the problem was solved, but after a few power cycles the griding noise has returned. Does anyone have any ideas ? Thanks.

here's a link to some instructions with pics of when I opened mine up to replace the color wheel. You should be able to use them to get into the projection case.

http://mistermarbles.blogspot.com/2008/04/replacing-color-wheel-for-samsung-hl.html

I don't mean to sound like a noob, but i need some help fixing a friend's samsung dlp. i helped them replace the color wheel last week and theday after i did so, they called to let me know that the picture was not up to par. the bast way that i can describe it is if you have a high definition screen and a low definition picture, 32 bit vs. 256 colors for windows, and you get a funky looking picture. the image quality has been greatly reduced and the effect i am noticing on their screen is only in low-light scenes. anything that is black in the movie or on tv that is a shadow, has like a 256 color effect, but the bright colors are fine. i do not have the original manual or the model number, but i can get the model if needed. i beleive it is the 46" version.

cservice, thanks for the link. I shut it down tonight and watched the fan at the right rear in the input area; it spun fine until shutdown so thats not it. I don't think it's the large fan near the lamp as it sounded ok. So I'm thinking its the fan in the approx. center of the TV as shown in your first pic (above the DVI cable) . I don't know much about the color wheel, but my picture is fine so I'm hoping it's just the fan. I'll have to take it off the shelf to get a better look from behind and hear what's happening at shutdown. Perhaps a wire fell onto it and thus the noise, or the bearings behave fine when cold but get noisy after warmup then a shutdown. I don't get a fan error though(from the front lights). We'll see...

Thanks again.

Well I'm new here (have read the forums from time to time before)

I'm sorry to say I seem to be another victim of the 3 blinking lights fiasco. I have an HLR4667W, which had been great up until this point. Replaced the bulb, same thing. Of course I get the runaround from Samsung, when they can't possibly be unaware of the situation. I still haven't decided if I'm going to have it serviced, I know I can fix it myself but no one seems to be able to find a consistant diagnosis. Pretty disappointed right now.

So anyways here I am, I don't know whether to ask you all to welcome me or tell me you're sorry:D:rolleyes: So until I figure out what the deal is I'll be around here reading.

I don't mean to sound like a noob, but i need some help fixing a friend's samsung dlp. i helped them replace the color wheel last week and theday after i did so, they called to let me know that the picture was not up to par. the bast way that i can describe it is if you have a high definition screen and a low definition picture, 32 bit vs. 256 colors for windows, and you get a funky looking picture. the image quality has been greatly reduced and the effect i am noticing on their screen is only in low-light scenes. anything that is black in the movie or on tv that is a shadow, has like a 256 color effect, but the bright colors are fine. i do not have the original manual or the model number, but i can get the model if needed. i beleive it is the 46" version.
It sounds like the Index Delay setting is too high. Go into the Service Menu (at your own risk), and lower the Index Delay. I would recommend having the cable/satellite box or the DVD player turned on whle adjusting this to help you find a good setting. DVD works better, as you can freeze the picture on a dark scene that looks "funky". You'll be able to see the change to the PQ as you adjust the Index Delay up or down.

Hello all,

I've had my HL-R5667 since Feb 06 and it has been working great so far until recently. I noticed that my Component 2 input no longer works. Wierd thing is that it doesn't skip that input when scrolling through all the sources. The TV should skip over the input if there is nothing connected. So basically:

1. Connect a device to Component 2 and TV says "no signal"
2. Disconnect device from Component 2 and TV will still think there is something pluged in.

I've tried multiple devices and none of them work on Component 2, but work fine on Component 1. Tried doing the basic stuff like power cycling and unplugging for a while, but the issue persists. I'm still under warranty and CC sent out a local repair shop to look at it, but he didn't seem very confident in it being an easy fix. Anyone here experience similar issues and is it fixable?

Also... since my warranty is almost out, how do you go about getting a replacement lamp for the set? I'm still on my original bulb and CC said the warranty covered the bulb, but I want to try and get one as a backup even though the one I've got works fine for now. Have about 4500 hours on the set. Thanks guys!

Well my time with this set is coming to an end (purchased set in nov 05). I was having a bad flickering across all inputs. Thought it was the bulb and had it replaced. Flickering still continued. Called GE(my warranty folks) and had a tech come out. Turns out the LE and DMD boards are no longer available for this set or so they said.
So, I am getting my set replaced hopefully with a newer model. I have had one LE replaced, the bulb and the color wheel and now the set. I can't stress the importance of an extended warrany anymore! Also, just purchased a Samsung LN52650 :). Time to go with a different technology, I think.

Bump. No one has any ideas? Guess I'll keep switching off the power strip when it messes up. Not ready to spend $650 on this--at least until it gets worse.

If anyone has any thoughts, please post them. I'll check back periodically. Thanks.
-justin

I'm experiencing the same problem. My dvd player on the component input has the broken bars across it, but my satelite on the hdmi is good. What is odd is that my satelite on the same component inputs and cables displays fine. I have checked multiple dvd players and my receiver though, and all display the same condition. It does go away temporarily when the tv is unplugged, but returns shortly. I also tried my satelite on the component inputs and reduced the resolution output to 480p and it still worked. I was beginning to suspect that there was an issue with the upconversion in the tv, but this seems to rule it out?

Justin - Have you tried an upconverting dvd player through component inputs?

Jeff
HLR6167W

To everyone with the 3 flickering lights when the TV just turns itself off randomly(and won't stay on very long after you unplug/replug it and turn it back on):

This happened to me back before the TV(HLR5667) was a year old. Still under factory warrenty, repair guy came out and replaced the entire digital board, light engine/bulb, everything in one big part. I don't if technically it was called the "light engine" or the "digital board", it was a couple feet long and included the bulb/ballast and everything, so I think it was the "digital board" that was replaced.

Never had a problem since. I got an extended warrenty for this thing, I'll have to look it up I think it expires this summer, 3 years after purchase.

One thing is for sure, I won't buy another DLP even though I have had resonably good luck(knock on wood!) with this one. Too many mechanical parts, and LCDs/Plasmas have plummeted in price. Back in 2005 DLP sets were an amazing bang for your buck in terms of size and were so much lighter/smaller than still popular large heavy rear projection sets. Not anymore.

I don't read this thread much anymore because it scares me all the problems people are having, haha

I've got an HLR4667W that has these purple bands in the top 1/3 of the screen. After I turn it on about 5 minutes later it will start with sparkles. At that point if I PIP it will display the full bands. I don't change to the PIP image. If I switch the PIP off it goes back to good picture with no sparkles. After some time it will start getting the small sparkles again. If I leave it the bands will eventually appear. If I just enable PIP and disable it goes back to a flawless picture.

http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd87/sroison/100_4675-1.jpg

I have an hlr6167w and have a screen defect. There is a (thin) vertical line on the screen about 3" to the left of the center of the screen. The best way to describe it is if I take a dark grey piece of paper and fold it in 2, then unfold it, there is a "fold line". This is what my tv looks like (only when the screen is off or dark scenes, it's imperceptible when the screen has a bright image on).

I called Samsung Customer Service and asked them to send a repair tech, which theyh're going to do, but the interesting thing is I asked about the TV Guide not working (I've had the tv for a week and a half). They said that there is a documented problem with Comcast and the TV Guide. There is a procedure that must be done, and they're going to schedule another tech to service this. So if you're having problems with Comcast and TV Guide you might want to give Samsung a call.

Hello, I just started noticing the same thing on my HLR-5067W (left side of the screen has a darker 6-8 inch bar running down the screen). I noticed it the other night while watching the movie Doom on my HD-DVD player (most of the movie scenes are quite dark).

I did some testing and shut the lights off in my living room and just turned my HD cable box off so the screen would show a completely black image. The bar is definately there.

Anyway, I never noticed it before and was wondering if this is normal or something I should get looked at by a Samsung Tech... I bought the TV less than a year ago. Did Samsung tell you anything about your issue?

I have attached an that I made to illustrate what this kind of looks like on my Samsung.



Weird problem similar problem to the above issues already posted. But I didn't see anyone have a fix for the problem.

Both my father and I have the HL-R5662W Costco version DLP. We are both seeing a grey/white fuzzy vertical line/bar runing approx. 6-7" down from the left hand side of the screen. The grey line/bar can only be seen during dark sequences in movies/games or when the tv has no input (Since it just displays a blank screen but the bulb is still lit I guess). Its almost like a halo or something. I wonder if it's related at all to this problem, or if someone can point me in the right direction to help both my father and myself. I believe the Light Engine was replaced on my fathers TV but didn't fix the problem at all. Any suggestions?

The funny thing is the problem happened first on my fathers TV, which prompted my brother to get support and they replaced the light engine. But the problem remained. The tech tried a ton of other things but didn't fix the TV. Since we bought from Costco, they returned it and got a brand new one with no such problem. 6 months later this TV now has the same problem. Then 6 months later my TV also started exhibiting the same problem exactly in the same place.

Other people have to be seeing this. It's hard to notice, but we watch alot of dark movies and it can really distract you once you see it. Please help.

Here is what it sort of looks like. This is from another poster. Please help.

http://www.forming.com/images/personal/screen_example.jpg

That looks like my TV when it is off which is normal. I don't get the effect you see when it is on though.

Fortunately, my tv is going strong at 3 years and 2900 hours. Probably due for a bulb soon.

One night, there was a loud pop and my screen was light green and flashing. I turned it off. 10 minutes later, I turned on the TV, the screen went black on my Samsung HL-R5067W. When I would turn it on, the switch would flicker and a scratching sound can be heard (I guess the color wheel), and then went smoothly.
I ordered a new bulb from Samsung and installed it. When I turn it on, the screen is still dark. The only "Lamp" LED on the power button keeps flashing for 20 seconds, then the "Stanby" LED flashes on about a coulpe of seconds, and then the "Lamp" LED flashes on. The cycle will continues unless I unplug the power. (Pressing the power button on TV or remote does not work)
Any ideas about my TV acting like that? Can it be ballast, board, engine light??? Anyone experienced the same problem?

New to forums... Crazy to hear all these issues with the DLP.

EXACT Same thing happened to me this weekend!!

Ordered new bulb, and still same issue. TV vibrates when I turn it on, and still no pix...

New to forums... Crazy to hear all these issues with the DLP.

EXACT Same thing happened to me this weekend!!

Ordered new bulb, and still same issue. TV vibrates when I turn it on, and still no pix...
Sorry I can't help you out. I was just wondering how long you've had your DLP and approximately how many hours did you have on it/the bulb?

Interesting to read all the responses...

The picture on my HLR5667 still looks great, however a couple times last night while using the tuner, the picture froze up and the TV had to 'reset' itself, takes about 20 seconds and you hear some clicking in the back, same noise when you switch tuners over to the antenna input or cable input. It's never done that, but did it twice last night within an hour. It also makes the same clicking sound occasionally when it's off, I think that is because the TVGOS is switching inputs to look for guide data OTA, then over cable.

Since i turned in my DVR/cable box for the summer, the TVGOS works great for an interim guide(till I get a DVR later in the fall again once football/hoops start up). I have it configured for both OTA and cable, so I think that's why it is switching antenna inputs when the TV is off.

But I did dig out the paperwork for it, and feel at ease when I found that I did get the 5yr warrenty on it from date of purchase(for a good deal), I've had it for almost 3 now. If it breaks, hopefully parts aren't availible anymore and I'm stuck with a new 1080p DLP(this year's line of Samsung DLP has NO 720p sets). Even better wish they could give a big big credit towards an LCD set or something, I won't get another DLP again because there are too many mechanical parts and flat panel prices have dropped so much in the last 3 years.

Sorry I can't help you out. I was just wondering how long you've had your DLP and approximately how many hours did you have on it/the bulb?

I've owned my DLP for 3yr 1month. The bulb... I dunno. 3k hours? But the picture has gotten slightly dimmer compared to new, but it "was" still great picture quality. I ordered a new bulb... and still no workie (going to return it!). I hear a loud noise & buzz that I've never heard before... and on top of that, if you touch the TV, it vibrates.

I'm waaaaaaay outta warranty period, and decided not to even attempt to fix it. I've read several hundred $$ from various postings, and even then... it doesn't ensure how much longer it'll last. :confused:

NO WAY will I EVER, EVER, EVER buy/recommend a DLP to anyone. I paid close to $2600 3 years ago, and it was a terrible investment. :mad:

To top it off, my co-worker came in today and said his DLP went out last night.... Just can't count on the reliability of DLP I guess. Too many moving parts in DLP.

I sucked it up, and bought a Samsung 52" LCD last night. :) HL52A550... saw it in the store, loved it, and ordered online. Also saw the 750, but couldn't justify $500 more for 120Hz...

I will have had my HL-R5067W for three years I think in October. Still running the original bulb, I'm guessing in the neighborhood of 3000 hours (haven't checked in a long time). I haven't had any problems with it thus far (knock on wood), but I think the settings need to be tweaked. I've noticed the PQ in dark scenes seems to be worse than before, so I'll probably adjust the Index Delay and do a calibration with DVE. But overall, the PQ is still quite good.

It scares me that there are so many problems with this tv. I bought mine back at Christmas 2005. Runs great still. From what I can see, all the moving parts in a DLP aren't that reliable. I hope mine works for years longer. It seems it's like playing craps though! :rolleyes:

Whats even more scary is that I've read at least 5 posts so far from people that are thoroughly pissed with Samsung and their broken down DLP TV's, and what are they all saying. "I'm going out to buy a new SAMSUNG LCD". If your so pissed at Samsung, why on earth would you give them more of your hard earned money????:confused:

Bought a new Pioneer recently. Can't say enough about the build quality.

I will have had my HL-R5067W for three years I think in October. Still running the original bulb, I'm guessing in the neighborhood of 3000 hours (haven't checked in a long time). I haven't had any problems with it thus far (knock on wood), but I think the settings need to be tweaked. I've noticed the PQ in dark scenes seems to be worse than before, so I'll probably adjust the Index Delay and do a calibration with DVE. But overall, the PQ is still quite good.
When I replaced the color wheel a few weeks ago I checked the bulb and had almost 10k hours on it. [We left the tv on a lot to extend the bulb life - fewer on/off cycles is supposedly good for it - and boy did it work. Of course the energy costs probably outweighed and savings in bulb life]. I bought a new bulb and everyone thinks it's a brighter and more vibrant picture so it was well worth it, and now I have a spare just in case.

It scares me that there are so many problems with this tv.

That is your perception because you are reading about everyone's problems. Forums, in general, seek advice for issues. Rarely does anyone care about reading how great something is unless you are at the beginning of a thread looking for buying advice. Plus you have the law of averages working here. Samsung is the market share leader in DLP technology so it stands to reason that they will have the market share in problems. Hopefully not at the same rate as competitors but in sheer volume that is understandable.

I have this set going on three years. I just checked my lamp and I am on 4250 hours. The tv is still going strong. I just did a few of the service menu tweaks and my picture is outstanding. Nothing lasts forever. Just sit back and enjoy your set because there is no epidemic to worry about.

When I replaced the color wheel a few weeks ago I checked the bulb and had almost 10k hours on it. [We left the tv on a lot to extend the bulb life - fewer on/off cycles is supposedly good for it - and boy did it work. Of course the energy costs probably outweighed and savings in bulb life]. I bought a new bulb and everyone thinks it's a brighter and more vibrant picture so it was well worth it, and now I have a spare just in case.
I leave my set on when I leave the house for short periods of time to minimize on/off cycles as well. But, if I think I'm going to be gone or not watching for more than an hour, I turn it off to save on energy. As I said in my previous post, I haven't checked the lamp hours in quite some time, so there could be considerably more than 3k hours on it.

Does anyone notice that their set "clicks" a lot after you turn it off?

Lately when I turn it off at night before I go to bed, and while I wrap up a few things on the computer and shut it off, i hear a clicking noise about every 30 seconds for several minutes. This is after the last of the fans has spun down cooling it off after you hit the power button.

It's the same noise that is made when you change inputs from cable to antenna. I wonder if it is the TVGOS searching for data, on both the antenna and cable inputs. I think I had it set up for both antenna and cable, but i hate resetting it cause then it takes 30 minutes to resort the listings the way I want it, and rearrange the hundreds and hundreds of channels.

Then after being out of town all weekend, and turning it on Sunday night, the TVGOS wouldn't come up at all, not by pressing the remote or going into it via the menu. After a few minutes it finally froze the image and did it's little self reboot, then it worked fine.

I guess if it decided to go poof I wouldn't be too concerned(still on extended warrenty) and would hope that the parts aren't in stock anymore and I'd get a new one. What I would LOVE is a credit from Samsung and then replace it with a 1080p LCD... :D

Best place to buy a lamp? I'm at 3K but not wanting to push luck -- and then need a new ballast since old bulb blew like I've heard about. Picture still great.

well my setup is with a dish network hd box samsung hlr5067w tv connected with an hdmi cable so everything was working upuntil about an hour ago it stopped working I took the hdmi cable out and plugged it back in and the picture came but no sound so I tried checking all my audio connection to my samsung surround sound reciever xbox worked fine but hdmi wouldn't consistantly show picture only when I wiggled the cable it would go on and off I tried a new monster hdmi cable same result what could be wrong sorry for the runon but I'm using my phone to type if anyone has a solution or answer it would be much appreciated

This happened to anyone? Out of nowhere heard a loud pop and an intermittent crackling noise (strange)every 20 seconds or so. Sound still works. Inspected the lamp and sure enough it was shattered. Waiting for a replacement, but I thought it was supposed to just eventually burn out. I've had the set almost 3 years. I'm concerned there might be an additional problem.

My 4667W is about 3 years old. In the last month, it's turned itself off at least 4 times.
I made sure that the on/off or sleep timers are not set.

Anyone else have this problem or know what the solution may be?

Thanks.:(

My 4667W is about 3 years old. In the last month, it's turned itself off at least 4 times.
I made sure that the on/off or sleep timers are not set.

Anyone else have this problem or know what the solution may be?

Thanks.:(

My set did the same thing until the light engine was replaced about a year and a half ago. See http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10247672#post10247672 for my light engine number. If you search for light engine in this forum you may find more info.

Well, after 3.25 years ( http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5670500&highlight=#post5670500 ) and 9391 bulbs hours (is that a lot?) I've run into a problem that might be a deal breaker for this set. About 5 minutes after turning the set on, the screen dims by about 20%. If I turn it off and quickly back on - no change. If I turn it off and back on after waiting a minute or two...the brightness comes back to where it should be...only to be cut by 20% again 5 minutes later. Is there a cut and dry cause of such a problem? I don't really have the cash to throw parts at it.

It's worth noting that a few months ago I had the often-described problem of having the picture go to black at random. We lived with it for a while and out of desperation, I swapped in a new power strip and it went away. Maybe that was just dumb luck. Maybe that problem was tied to this new one. Anyone have any advice?


EDIT: the bulb hours must be wrong...that works out to 7.9 hours per day every day since I've owned the TV. We watch TV...but we do leave the house most days :)

Well, after 3.25 years ( http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5670500&highlight=#post5670500 ) and 9391 bulbs hours (is that a lot?) I've run into a problem that might be a deal breaker for this set. About 5 minutes after turning the set on, the screen dims by about 20%. If I turn it off and quickly back on - no change. If I turn it off and back on after waiting a minute or two...the brightness comes back to where it should be...only to be cut by 20% again 5 minutes later. Is there a cut and dry cause of such a problem? I don't really have the cash to throw parts at it.

It's worth noting that a few months ago I had the often-described problem of having the picture go to black at random. We lived with it for a while and out of desperation, I swapped in a new power strip and it went away. Maybe that was just dumb luck. Maybe that problem was tied to this new one. Anyone have any advice?


EDIT: the bulb hours must be wrong...that works out to 7.9 hours per day every day since I've owned the TV. We watch TV...but we do leave the house most days :)

Interesting, I've been seeing this too and assumed it was my bulb (which had 4000+ hours last time I checked maybe a year ago) My set was purchased right around thanksgiving 2005 and I only average 3 hours a night on weekdays and 8 on weekends (use it as a pc monitor and do a lot of surfing + regular night watching).

Very weird about the hours if they're wrong. It's easy to reset them but to have them increase beyond the actual hours used would be bizarre.

If you do replace the bulb and it fixes this condition I'd be very interested to know.

I've been thinking of going for one of the new 750 dlp led series and if so would try not to invest another $150 in mine.....

Disregard. If I'm not mistaken, somehow, my color presets seem like they have reset themselves. Not 100% sure, and if true, not sure how it happened. But after some tweaking everything's back to normal. I *swear* I've seen the picture dim! Oh well.

Can anyone confirm/deny they are able to get perfect 1:1 pixel mapping using a pc with hdmi input on this set?

I know it's possible using the vga input in Wide TV mode.

I have found many posts about this topic but no definitive answers regarding the hdmi input on an HL-Rxx67W set.

If you can confirm you're able to achieve perfect 1:1 pixel mapping from a pc using the hdmi input on an HL-Rxx67W set, please include the OS (vista 32 bit etc) videocard you're using and whether any special adjustments were needed (powerstrip etc).

Mark Rejhon's DILA Test Pattern
http://www.marky.com/files/hometheater/testpatterns/tracking-and-phase.gif

Instructions on Using Test Pattern
http://archive.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90884

Interesting, I've been seeing this too and assumed it was my bulb (which had 4000+ hours last time I checked maybe a year ago) My set was purchased right around thanksgiving 2005 and I only average 3 hours a night on weekdays and 8 on weekends (use it as a pc monitor and do a lot of surfing + regular night watching).

Very weird about the hours if they're wrong. It's easy to reset them but to have them increase beyond the actual hours used would be bizarre.

If you do replace the bulb and it fixes this condition I'd be very interested to know.

I've been thinking of going for one of the new 750 dlp led series and if so would try not to invest another $150 in mine.....

One of the nicest features of buying a DLP in the first place (at least of this vintage), was being able to replace the bulb for 129 to 179 bucks every two years or so and have what essentially looks like a brand new TV. I find it passing strange that someone would dump their DLP TV because the lamp finally failed...which is exactly what it is supposed to do. Maybe I misread something, but ...really?

I've had my HL-R5667W since 4/20/2006 and I just replaced the bulb yesterday. (bulb and housing). I had 9865 hours on it! I planned for about 3500 hours max. I purchased a new bulb within a few weeks of getting the set, so I would have a spare ready to go. It took less than 10 minutes to replace the bulb/housing (they came together). 4 screws to the bulb panel, one screw to pop out the lamp/housing module and slide the new one in.

This has been a wonderful TV since day one, and the idea of throwing it away because the bulb needs to be replaced makes one wonder.:)

I'm ordering another bulb/housing this week. My first one cost $179 from Samsung parts...this one (also fully OEM) will be $129. I'm very seriously considering ordering two bulbs. Putting 130 bucks into a $1400 TV in 10 minutes is hardly much effort, either financially or physically.

I don't get how one could buy a DLP in the first place and consider it a disposable when a light bulb eventually burns out (which is a planned replacement in the first place....why do you think they made it so easy?)

I hope I misread the thread, because as I see it, the idea of "disposing" of an otherwise perfectly performing DLP because a user replaceable bulb finally failed is....well....silly.

This happened to anyone? Out of nowhere heard a loud pop and an intermittent crackling noise (strange)every 20 seconds or so. Sound still works. Inspected the lamp and sure enough it was shattered. Waiting for a replacement, but I thought it was supposed to just eventually burn out. I've had the set almost 3 years. I'm concerned there might be an additional problem.

I wouldn't worry much about a "new" problem beyond the bulb finally failing. Buy a new lamp with housing (they come either way, make sure you are getting the bulb with the housing) and you can replace it in less than 10 minutes. I just did mine yesterday (HL-R5667W) and it was a piece of cake. The PQ returned to the fantastic level it had been when brand new. I had 9865 hours on the bulb (which is way more than typical.) I expected about 3500 hours max. When I calculated the hours used per day, it came out to 11 some hours ...which is correct given how I use the TV (as a radio much of the time)

I believe I got this kind of longevity from the bulb for the following reasons:

1. I never turn the TV off if it is not going to remain off for at least 4 hours.

2. The TV has always been on a UPS (large), and therefore has never been exposed to rapid on/off cycling due to power interruptions, nor has the lamp cool down period been skipped due to a power failure as the UPS runs the fan during a power failure for the required time to cool the lamp down.

3. Luck.:)

The picture finally got dim enough, even after the final 3 months of running in Dynamic (torch) mode, that I decided to replace it. The lamp still works.

Based on this and my usage pattern, I can plan to replace the bulb every two years, which makes my bulb replacement cost about 5 bucks a month. Well worth it to get what looks like a brand new tv!

One of the nicest features of buying a DLP in the first place (at least of this vintage), was being able to replace the bulb for 129 to 179 bucks every two years or so and have what essentially looks like a brand new TV.

Sure, I agree.

My comment was sort of an offhand to my situation and not germane to the original poster's question, so I should have left it out probably.

What I meant was, for me, there are several reasons why I'm interested in the 7 series led dlp model and that if replacing the bulb on the HLRxx did NOT solve the 'sudden dimming' problem the original poster saw (or thought he saw) I would especially not want to invest the money in a new bulb to try and fix that problem (which I am definitely seeing) on my current set. That would put me over the edge towards buying a new set.

IE, (for my situation) who knows what's causing the (frequent) 'sudden dimming' after being on for 30 seconds or so? If it's *definitely* the bulb great, if *not* I don't want to bother spending the money to find that out.

Sure, I agree.

My comment was sort of an offhand to my situation and not germane to the original poster's question, so I should have left it out probably.

What I meant was, for me, there are several reasons why I'm interested in the 7 series led dlp model and that if replacing the bulb on the HLRxx did NOT solve the 'sudden dimming' problem the original poster saw (or thought he saw) I would especially not want to invest the money in a new bulb to try and fix that problem (which I am definitely seeing) on my current set. That would put me over the edge towards buying a new set.

IE, (for my situation) who knows what's causing the (frequent) 'sudden dimming' after being on for 30 seconds or so? If it's *definitely* the bulb great, if *not* I don't want to bother spending the money to find that out.

That certainly makes good sense (additional repairs over and above a simple lamp replacement), and I think the 2008 version of the LED Samsung looks very inviting. I would look very hard at the 1600 price tag for that TV (amazon, I think). My next TV will be a 61" Samsung and the LED version is my leading candidate. I doubt I'll be in the market for at least another two years, as I just did my first lamp replacement yesterday:)

When it comes time, I really like what I've been reading from actual owners of the 2008 61" model. I wish you good luck...although I don't know what to wish for (that new 61" is a beauty and you may hope for a more significant problem so you feel good about getting it.:)

Hello all,
On my HL-R4667W (Made date: April 06), Regarding the color detail adjustment, I can slide the pink and greens and see the effects of them but the blue up/down to either end-- makes no picture difference, although it does show it making some difference to the sky in the still photo in the adjustment pane, but even that photo never looks normal to me. Too green and not good fleshtone. I have to turn my green about all the way down to approach proper color balance, ie, green bushes in sunlight scenes are exaggerated and bright, sometimes yellowish. Other than that the balance seems close to about right in most scenes, even the blues (stuck as they are) seem ok, but the green is annoying and true fleshtones are hard to get. I also notice that in setup mode, for color weakness adjust I can only adjust one slider and it's setting wont "stick" if I attempt to then adjust another. I Can't combine its setting with any others. Touching any other one, resets the previously moved one and I wonder if that is a normal shortcoming of that adjustment or not.
In sm, I see the lamp listed as Osram and at 1860 hrs.
Does any of this sound familiar or symptomatic of a certain problem?

Thanks,
Rick.

My HLR5667W is about 9,000 hours old (of use) and I'm starting to get pretty nervous about the bulb... when should I replace it, and where should I buy a new one?

I searched "HLR5667W bulb" but most of the results I got had a huge range of lamp life (anywhere from 2,000 to 10,000 hours) and a very wide price range (from $100 to $250). Please advise.

My 4667 is about 3 YO now and it has started shutting off at random. I took off the door and blew all the dirt off with some Duster and it was good for a while, but now it's doing it again, just less frequent.

Is anybody familiar with how to reduce the overscan on this model? I searched the thread for the word "overscan" but got no answer that way. I could also improve the picture by raising the picture vertically a bit, since the bottom of the picture gets cut off more than the top or sides.

This would be for the HDMI input.

I know how to get into the service menu, but have not yet changed any values there.

I have a 5067w for 2-3 years that started to shut down alot during the summer. I noticed that it would do this on particularly warm/hot days. I do have AC but noticed the back of the set by the entry door was still very hot to the touch. Now one night, it shut off a few times right after i turned it back on so i threw in a small fan blowing sideways and it didn't shut off and hasn't shut off in a few months since then. We had some hot days recently without issues.

Vacuum inside especially two fans inside with hepa filter and then afterwards normally run a hepa filter in the room the TV is housed.

Vacuum inside especially two fans inside with hepa filter and then afterwards normally run a hepa filter in the room the TV is housed.

hepa filter? What the heck is that? Where are the fans at in there, I couldn't even see them.

Do you notice dust? If so, I was suggesting you might choose to use a vacuum cleaner equipped with a hepa filter to clean vents and also components inside. Use one with hepa since it will not let the dust escape or other particles more that micron size or so back into your set or the room. Some suggest using compressed air but guess where the dust you blow off goes? The vents and fans DO clog up if you do not have hepa air filter cleaning machine in your house, depending on how dusty your interior spaces are. With dust buildup the TV will overheat and cause lamp and/or component failure since it piles up in thick layers if not removed. But do this only if you're comfortable with say, changing your lamp assembly and/or if your set is no longer in warranty. Consider filtering air in your media room to keep this from happening. This is a good idea not just for your TV but also for your indoor air quality. Dust mite accumulation that goes along with dust adversely affects your health.

http://blogs.ebay.com/dlptvlamps

Thanks Rocky. I did have a lot of dust in there. Next time I'll vac it out. It still is shutting off intermittently though. I still don't know what hepa means.

Hepa is a type of filter that is very efficient at cleaning out very small particles in the air.

For some reason my hdmi input has stopped working. every other input works. I've unplugged the set and tried multiple sources for the input so it's the tv for sure. It say weak signal with the device on and no signal check cable with it off..I guess I should just call samsung and have them look at it. For now I'm running component in.

There's a possibility it's the HDMI cable, and not the input. Have you tried a different cable? If not, buy a new cable from monoprice.com. They're inexpensive, quality cables, and they ship pretty quickly.

I have been reading on here for awhile but I can;t seem to find a straight answer about my flicker issue.

I replaced original bulb 9 months ago, new bulb was brighter but always seemed to have a "flicker" to it. The flicker is similar to everyone else on here.


Is it the Bulb? Or light engine?

I have been reading on here for awhile but I can;t seem to find a straight answer about my flicker issue.

I replaced original bulb 9 months ago, new bulb was brighter but always seemed to have a "flicker" to it. The flicker is similar to everyone else on here.


Is it the Bulb? Or light engine?

Interesting. I can't really comment with any authority but I would be interested in answers and/or discussion/comments.

I'm experiencing two issues with my original bulb in my a set purchased in november of 2005.

1. occaisional flickering
2. frequent sudden dimming after first turning on the set

I was hoping both would be fixed by replacing the bulb (which probably has closer to 8000 hours than 4000 by now).

I just hooked my TV up to my computer with NVIDIA 7600GT...

I have tried using VGA and HDMI

Both cut off portions of the screen....

Both say they are at 1280x720 resolution. HDMI (Via DVI to HDMI connector) is fully maximized and cuts off the top, bottom, and sides of the actual desktop (more on top and bottom).

VGA cuts off some of the bottom, but is letterboxed around the top and sides.

I've tried all the options through the NVIDIA panel

Any help would be appreciated. I am trying to use the TV as the primary and only display.

I have been reading on here for awhile but I can;t seem to find a straight answer about my flicker issue.

I replaced original bulb 9 months ago, new bulb was brighter but always seemed to have a "flicker" to it. The flicker is similar to everyone else on here.


Is it the Bulb? Or light engine?

I just talked to the company that sold me the bulb about warranty and this is what they said

"The bulb either works, or it doesn't, it sounds like the flicker issue is caused by a bad DMD Board"

Does this make sense to anyone? It looks like DMD board is about $500 to buy and obvisouly not worth it.

Has anyone found a way to unlock the greyed out tint control yet? I find it a major pain using the custom color and setup weakness controls, they don't even work correctly. Even more of a pain is going into setup menu. I'd rather put a jumper across a diode on a board, or whatever it takes.., and be done with it, because fleshtones can vary from one channel to the next. anyone??
HLR4667W model.

Is anybody familiar with how to reduce the overscan on this model? I searched the thread for the word "overscan" but got no answer that way. I could also improve the picture by raising the picture vertically a bit, since the bottom of the picture gets cut off more than the top or sides.

This would be for the HDMI input.

I know how to get into the service menu, but have not yet changed any values there.

I'm having the same problem. I have had people tell me to put the TV size setting to "Just Scan," but I don't even see that option. The only two options on the HDMI are 16x9 and 4x3. Everything else is grayed out and Just Scan isn't even a grayed out option.

Anyone know of any possible solutions?

Hello all, I have the HL-R5067W model and all of a sudden it won't turn on. Well, that isn't necessarily correct. What's happening is, when I turn the tv on, the screen starts to come on, the lamp light flashes for about 10 seconds, and then the tv automatically shuts off. I can see from behind that the lamp is on, and the screen does appear to get lighter like it's trying to come on. However, nothing ever shows up on the screen, not even the video mode it's in.

Any thoughts on what could be the problem? Thanks in advance for any help!!!

Hello all, I have the HL-R5067W model and all of a sudden it won't turn on. Well, that isn't necessarily correct. What's happening is, when I turn the tv on, the screen starts to come on, the lamp light flashes for about 10 seconds, and then the tv automatically shuts off. I can see from behind that the lamp is on, and the screen does appear to get lighter like it's trying to come on. However, nothing ever shows up on the screen, not even the video mode it's in.

Any thoughts on what could be the problem? Thanks in advance for any help!!!

Maybe the light assembly? Check this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=10614571#post10614571).

My 5067 went out. I'm thinking it's the bulb but i'm not sure what it suppose to look like after the bulb goes out. I didn't hear any type of pop or anything. It has 5400 hours on it and now the screen is just a purple fuzz. I hear volume just fine and can change the channels.

Anyone familiar with what purple fuzz could mean?

I have a HL-R5067W and recently I have a weird picture problem. The picture used to be the entire screen but now I have a transparent area on the left side of the tv. It is in the area of where the black bars would be. I have also noticed that text at the bottom of the screen is now cut in half (only the top portion of letters visible) when it used to be fully visible. This is on all inputs including output from the DVD player and the Wii. Any ideas as to the problem and a solution? I have pictures that show this problem.

Hello fellow HLRxxxxW owners. I've had my 6167 for 3 years now and have been loving it ever since. I've recently constructed a HTPC for use with it and for the life of me cannot get the screen (Windows Vista) to 'shift' over to the left and up just about an inch. I've tried Powerstrip and several other programs but it seems like it's hard coded not to allow it. Any suggestions? I found the optimum resolution is 1280x720x60hz which I believe is 720p. 1900x1080x30 flickers quite a bit and doesn't show the whole screen.

Cheers!

(apologies if this has been covered, I tried searching the thread but any keywords I used came up with nothing.)

You can enter the service menu (Mute 1-8-2 on the remote when the power is off) and change the values for horizontal and vertical placement. I want to say VPosition and HPosition, but it may be under a different heading.

Hello fellow HLRxxxxW owners. I've had my 6167 for 3 years now and have been loving it ever since. I've recently constructed a HTPC for use with it and for the life of me cannot get the screen (Windows Vista) to 'shift' over to the left and up just about an inch. I've tried Powerstrip and several other programs but it seems like it's hard coded not to allow it. Any suggestions? I found the optimum resolution is 1280x720x60hz which I believe is 720p. 1900x1080x30 flickers quite a bit and doesn't show the whole screen.

Cheers!

(apologies if this has been covered, I tried searching the thread but any keywords I used came up with nothing.)

Which input are you using on the TV? I know for the PC (vga) input you can adjust the picture size, position etc. from within the TV display menu too. Have you already done that?

Where are the fans at in there, I couldn't even see them.I couldn't find the parts diagram earlier, however I did find it later while looking for something else. Natch.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=71294&d=1167409857

Hope this helpful to someone

Which input are you using on the TV? I know for the PC (vga) input you can adjust the picture size, position etc. from within the TV display menu too. Have you already done that?

I am using HDMI. I was able to move it around in the service menu but it doesn't fill the whole screen. I can live with that though as long as it's centered. Thanks for all the help.

I have a 2005 HL-R5067W and a quick question. Why when I have the tuner set to cable, tuning channels through the TV and all other components off or not hooked up the picture quality is really poor, color bad, screen twitch ect.(comcast cable),, but when I tune channels through the DVD player they are all just fine. It makes no difference if I hook the cable into the tv alone, or when I hook the cable into the dvd then to the tv. I get very bad quality on the cable setting, set it to the dvd and it all clears up....

I have a 2005 HL-R5067W and a quick question. Why when I have the tuner set to cable, tuning channels through the TV and all other components off or not hooked up the picture quality is really poor, color bad, screen twitch ect.(comcast cable),, but when I tune channels through the DVD player they are all just fine. It makes no difference if I hook the cable into the tv alone, or when I hook the cable into the dvd then to the tv. I get very bad quality on the cable setting, set it to the dvd and it all clears up....

I'm not understanding the part about tuning channels through a DVD player? Clarify. Also, does the cable box have an option for component or composite or HDMI out?, any of them would yield better results than the cable output and perhaps solve the problem.

I guess this unit has a built in tuner,

I have a Sanyo model DVW 7100 DVD/VCR combo, I can not get the codes listed in the manual for my 5067W and BP59-00071B remote to work this unit, it only lists two codes for a sanyo vcr ,011 and 021 and they don't work. I have been looking online for hours and am about to go nuts anyone have any lists?

I have a Samsung DLP TV about 3yrs old HLR-5667W. It was making a high pitch sound so I went and replaces the color wheel which I found had been shattered. After replacing the color wheel and putting everything back again. The TV powers ON but the lamp keeps on blinking and TV shuts itself OFF with the lamp, standby, timer light all blinking periodically. I tried replacing the lamp but no difference.

Maybe someone can help. My HLR5667 is all but dead it seems. I can't control the TV with the remote nor the buttons. It turns on and off by itself. Everytime I hit the power button on the remote, the "Timer" light comes on. But no control. The picture from the TV signal and component connections is greenish and bad. Only the HDMI would work when I was still able to control the TV. Any thoughts before I shoot the darn thing? The bulb only had 2000+ hrs, no clicking sound from the color wheel...help.

Hello,

I just replaced my color wheel in my HL-R4667W with the new "air bearing" type - and removed the jumper. TV is working fine now. However, I need to adjust the settings per the new values that came with the color wheel. Through the service menu, I can find and set the x and y values, but not the Lv. Can someone point me in the right direction on where to find and set Lv?

Any info would be greatly appreciated.:)

Thanks.

Where are all the anwers to these problems?

All -- recently bought a PS3 back in May. Hooked it up through my component 1. Happily enjoyed blu ray movies.

A few months ago, we started seeing 'jumping' video, almost like watching an old reel to reel filmstrip projector. Or the video would just drop out for a few seconds. Or you would see outside the 'frame' at the top or bottom of the screen -- hard to describe, but I am thinking if you have this problem, you know exactly what I am talking about. Seemed to happen on animated movies or scenes with a LOT of fast action going on.

Anyways -- it wasn't the PS3, it definitely is my inputs (1 and 2). I am currently running the cable box through the components and I still see the occasional problem -- usually FFing through a DVR show or just at random times.

Has anyone else had this problem? Solutions?

Where are all the anwers to these problems?

It seems most if not all the knowledgeable people originally participating in this thread have moved on (to bigger and better sets?).

Tis a shame to be sure.

All -- recently bought a PS3 back in May. Hooked it up through my component 1. Happily enjoyed blu ray movies.

A few months ago, we started seeing 'jumping' video, almost like watching an old reel to reel filmstrip projector. Or the video would just drop out for a few seconds. Or you would see outside the 'frame' at the top or bottom of the screen -- hard to describe, but I am thinking if you have this problem, you know exactly what I am talking about. Seemed to happen on animated movies or scenes with a LOT of fast action going on.

Anyways -- it wasn't the PS3, it definitely is my inputs (1 and 2). I am currently running the cable box through the components and I still see the occasional problem -- usually FFing through a DVR show or just at random times.

Has anyone else had this problem? Solutions?
I have not seen this problem you're describing. I have the HL-R5067W. Cable box and PS3 are both hooked up to the HDMI input via a Monoprice HDMI switch. DVD is the only thing hooked up via component. If it truly is your inputs, the cheapest fix might be to change your set-up similar to mine.

Does anyone know why the channel info box in the top corner is frozen on on channel and will not go away. Even when I change channels it stays there. Also, I cannot enter the menu either.

Does anyone know why the channel info box in the top corner is frozen on on channel and will not go away. Even when I change channels it stays there. Also, I cannot enter the menu either.

Nevermind. i went into the service menu and it seems to have freed it up. Strange.

My 4667 is now turning off all the time. When I first turn it on it turns off within 2 mins. I have a big fan in the back of it to dissipate heat. How much will this repair cost?

Anyone, anyone at all?

My 4667 is now turning off all the time. When I first turn it on it turns off within 2 mins. I have a big fan in the back of it to dissipate heat. How much will this repair cost?

Anyone, anyone at all?

My tv has started turning off occasionally. Reading through these threads I got the impression that it was the light engine that was causing it. I looked online and the engine cost somewhere in the region of $700 to $800 for just the part. At that price, I'd be very hesitant to fix it and may replace it with another 46". Those are now selling at almost the same price as the part.

If you fix it, please let me know what you did.

I have a Samsung DLP TV about 3yrs old HLR-5667W. It was making a high pitch sound so I went and replaces the color wheel which I found had been shattered. After replacing the color wheel and putting everything back again. The TV powers ON but the lamp keeps on blinking and TV shuts itself OFF with the lamp, standby, timer light all blinking periodically. I tried replacing the lamp but no difference.

My 2005 HL-R4226 is doing the same thing. I haven't looked to see if it's the color wheel yet, I just assumed it was the lamp since it's trying to come on (blinking like a struggling light bulb).

My lights blink peridocally as well....I was thinking it was just the lamp, I don't know.....HELP PLEASE..I really don;t want to blindly start replacing things only to have the same problem in the end....


Where are all the anwers to these problems?

It seems most if not all the knowledgeable people originally participating in this thread have moved on (to bigger and better sets?).

Tis a shame to be sure.

ANYBODY WANT TO HELP US POOR HLR BASTARDS OUT? THANKS IN ADVANCE:)

I am a lurker who finally registered because of my new issues.

About 3 days ago, there was a loud pop and my screen went black on my Samsung HL-R5067. When I would turn it on, the lamp would flicker with a scratching sound. I looked at in the back and it seemed to be the lamp for sure. I ordered a new one from Samsung and installed it in minutes. When I turn it on now, the picture looks great. Except that it only stays on for 15-20 seconds and then the TV resets itself, the good picture comes back up, and then it shuts itself off again. Any ideas about how to get the TV to stay on. I tried holding the power button on and it sort of reset the cycling, but then it started all over again.

I called Samsung and all they could offer was to set up a technician. I did that, but want to know what I might be in store for. Is it the light engine? Is that really a $900 repair? I'd rather just get a new, smaller 1080p TV for that cost. There are no sounds coming from the TV, so I don't think it is a color wheel issue, but I am open to anything.

I'm in the same boat as this dude. Anyone have any solutions? I haven't replaced the bulb yet, but I don't want to unless I know this is really the problem. Thanks.

Sorry, I don't know much. The only issue I ever had was an issue with my TV turning off suddenly from time to time. Since it was still under warrenty I called Samsung and they sent a tech who replaced the digital board/light engine.

Although I will say I'm glad I got the 5yr warrenty for this thing. When my bulb gets dim I'll call and see if I can't get a new bulb out of them. I would love it if they just would give me like $500 towards a new LCD or plasma. These DLPs just have too many mechanical parts for me to bother with another one.

My 5667 will "reboot" every now and then. The picture freezes up for like 20 seconds, then I hear some click sounds, and it goes blank, the HDMI resyncs up, and the picture comes back in about 10 more seconds.

Eh, thanks for posting anyway...I don't want to replace the bulb and color wheel if that isn't the real problem...I bought this thing for $450, so replacing the light engine wouldn't make sense, I'd just buy a smaller LCD.

How do I know if that's the problem? The bulb flickers when I turn it on, do bulbs do that when they go bad or is that a sign of a bigger problem?...I guess I'll open it up and look at the color wheel too, just so I know for sure.

Any help is appreciated greatly.

If anyone is interested in 2 colorwheels for a hlr5067w, send a PM.

Eh, thanks for posting anyway...I don't want to replace the bulb and color wheel if that isn't the real problem...I bought this thing for $450, so replacing the light engine wouldn't make sense, I'd just buy a smaller LCD.

How do I know if that's the problem? The bulb flickers when I turn it on, do bulbs do that when they go bad or is that a sign of a bigger problem?...I guess I'll open it up and look at the color wheel too, just so I know for sure.

Any help is appreciated greatly.

Anyone?