my house is super dusty does anybody take the back of there dlp and blow it out? Should i or leave it??

sorry double post.

my house is super dusty does anybody take the back of there dlp and blow it out? Should i or leave it??


It couldn't hurt anything....I've read that you shouldn't use compressed air though....someone said that they use a vacuum with a soft attachment to get rid of dust....good luck.

I just hooked my TV up to my computer with NVIDIA 7600GT...

I have tried using VGA and HDMI

Both cut off portions of the screen....

Both say they are at 1280x720 resolution. HDMI (Via DVI to HDMI connector) is fully maximized and cuts off the top, bottom, and sides of the actual desktop (more on top and bottom).

VGA cuts off some of the bottom, but is letterboxed around the top and sides.

I've tried all the options through the NVIDIA panel

Any help would be appreciated. I am trying to use the TV as the primary and only display.

This response is kind of late, but maybe this will help somebody someday. I have my Samsung hooked up to my PC via HDMI-DVI and was having the same problem as you at first. Make sure you have the same nvidia drivers, and then find the option in nVidia control panel (go to advanced in the screen in windows where you set resolution in windows, nvidia tab, nvidia control panel) called resize desktop. It will let you stretch the desktop to roughly fit the screen.

After I did this I realized I still had black bars on the top and right side of the screen, and the left and bottom where lined up perfectly. The service menu allows you to compensate for this. Just move the vertical and horizontal until it is center and use nvidia resize desktop option again and it will work.

I guess it still isnt absolutely perfect, as you are adjusting by sight. It is the closest I have found yet.

Hey folks - my unit's HDMI input stopped working. It actually gave me a message on a blue screen (at first it just showed nothing, then it came on for a few seconds (in HD w/ sound), then just sound) that said that "HD Input Has Been Compromised" and it told me to use the component cables. Am I out of luck, is the HDMI board toast? Can it be "reset"?

Hey folks - my unit's HDMI input stopped working. It actually gave me a message on a blue screen (at first it just showed nothing, then it came on for a few seconds (in HD w/ sound), then just sound) that said that "HD Input Has Been Compromised" and it told me to use the component cables. Am I out of luck, is the HDMI board toast? Can it be "reset"?

That's not the fault of the TV, that is an issue with your cable box... usually it means the HDMI handshake/sync failed. Turn the cable box off and on a couple times, ideally you should turn the TV off then on again(NOT good for it, though). If all else fails just pull the plug of your cable box to reboot it, then it should work again.

Hey All....it's been a while since I've posted here, but I'm really in need of some help. I purchased my HL-R5067 back in January of '06 and it's got 9440 hours on the original bulb according to the service menu. Several months ago, I noticed a "flickering" in the set, usually when there were bright white backgrounds, or very dynamic scenes. This has gradually gotten worse so that not it spends most of the time on a blue screen reading either "Not Supported Mode" or "Not Available" or it fades to black altogether. I don't get the three-light for flashing light indicators on the front of the set, so I'm not SURE that this is the blub or not. Can anyone confirm these symptoms as indications that the bulb is going or is it one of the "boards" I keep reading about? Thanks!

hey everyone I have never used this site before and I tried to read to see if my answers were in this thread however, I didn't really feel like reading all of the nearly 4,000 posts to be honest!'


So I had my dlp since it nearly came out but it has been in storage for nearly 2 years and i have been using it for the last few months and just got a blu ray player for xmas and I currently have my hdmi hook up with my cable box and there is not another outlet for it does anyone know if this is an adaptor so I can plug up two hdmi cable one from cable box and one for the blu ray????

Also when I'm watching cable from the hdmi only hd channels work and the other channels say "not supported" and I have to switch to cable 3, is there a way to avoid this???
ie getting a cable card???is that hd quailty ???

thanks for any help before I have to call cc or bb or timewarner cable.....I hate to do it but I will if need be :)

Bulb replacement question on an hlr4667.

Mine blew out today (christmas) just when we wanted to play with the new PS3.

I checked on line and the proper replacement bulb appears to be bp96-0826a despite the fact that the sticker on the side of the tv says something completely different.

Anyway, I just happened to still have my hln4365 that has a bad dmd or something and was replaced by the 46.

Even though I couldn't find anywhere on line that said I could use the bulb from the 43, I swapped it out of the housing for the 43 into the 46 and it worked (so far).

I can't tell any difference in brightness yet. The bulb in the 43 was a philips 100825881 - which I can't even find anywhere on line. I don't know why it was in the 43 but suspect they must have changed the light engine and all when they were trying to fix its other myriad problems.

Is anyone aware of any potential problems from the swap? Maybe ballast related?

thanks.

hey everyone I have never used this site before and I tried to read to see if my answers were in this thread however, I didn't really feel like reading all of the nearly 4,000 posts to be honest!'


So I had my dlp since it nearly came out but it has been in storage for nearly 2 years and i have been using it for the last few months and just got a blu ray player for xmas and I currently have my hdmi hook up with my cable box and there is not another outlet for it does anyone know if this is an adaptor so I can plug up two hdmi cable one from cable box and one for the blu ray????

Also when I'm watching cable from the hdmi only hd channels work and the other channels say "not supported" and I have to switch to cable 3, is there a way to avoid this???
ie getting a cable card???is that hd quailty ???

thanks for any help before I have to call cc or bb or timewarner cable.....I hate to do it but I will if need be :)

Check here (http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110)for HDMI switches.

Not sure why you're getting the "not supported" message. Search this site for your specific cable box model and there will probably be a thread dedicated to it.

thanks for the website a huge help!!! looking fwrd to getting one also thinking about selling my 720 before they start broadcasting 1080 so I can get money for a 1080

thanks for the website a huge help!!! looking fwrd to getting one also thinking about selling my 720 before they start broadcasting 1080 so I can get money for a 1080

No problem. Remember that quite a few networks (ABC, Fox, ESPN, etc.) broadcast their signal in 720p. Check this list (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=164671) for more info.

I'm trying to set up my Samsung TV so that I can either use it alone or with my AV Receiver. Has anyone found a way to use the internal-mute for using surround sound, but then easily turning it back for regular TV viewing? I know I'll need to create two activities in my 880 remote, but there's no easy way to turn the internal mute on/off. I'm also having trouble finding the list of discrete IR commands available for this TV, anyone know where they can be found? Thanx y'all!

I'm trying to set up my Samsung TV so that I can either use it alone or with my AV Receiver. Has anyone found a way to use the internal-mute for using surround sound, but then easily turning it back for regular TV viewing? I know I'll need to create two activities in my 880 remote, but there's no easy way to turn the internal mute on/off. I'm also having trouble finding the list of discrete IR commands available for this TV, anyone know where they can be found? Thanx y'all!

Have you tried this site?
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-discrete/thread.cgi?keywords=2792&highlight=samsung

I own a HLS6167W and so far so good!

I had read somewhere about possible firmware updates to support 1080p24 and other nicetys. Anyone know of this?
And without a full calibration, what are the "ideal settings" for service menu? Will they stick once powered off? Or should I keep it simple and just set the regular menus?

Thanks!

My understanding of this TV is that its native resolution is 720p, but it can do 1080i via scaling. Based on this, my conclusion is that, when watching a hi-def DVD (HD-DVD or Blu-Ray), I am not really getting the maximum quality that I could be getting. Is this correct?

Sorry for the dumb question -- I think I'm right but want to make sure. If the difference will really not be much, then I will stick with this TV, but if a 1080p TV will give me a very nice benefit (w/ Xbox 360 too?), then I might have to upgrade. I figure, now that I have HD sources like the 360 and DVD player, as well as plenty of HD cable channels, I'd like to get the maximum picture quality -- as long as it would truly make a noticeable difference.

Thanks in advance!

My understanding of this TV is that its native resolution is 720p, but it can do 1080i via scaling. Based on this, my conclusion is that, when watching a hi-def DVD (HD-DVD or Blu-Ray), I am not really getting the maximum quality that I could be getting. Is this correct?
The point has been argued many times in many places. My opinion is that 720p is just as good as 1080i unless your screen is enormous or you like to sit right in front of the screen.

The point has been argued many times in many places. My opinion is that 720p is just as good as 1080i unless your screen is enormous or you like to sit right in front of the screen.
I have heard this too, about 720p vs. 1080i, so I believe that. I don't really understand what 1080i means, other than it's not truly as good as 1080p -- something about alternating lines. What I'm wanting to know is whether or not I will see a big difference in Xbox 360 and Blu-Ray movies, between my 720p set and a 1080p one? I'm thinking about upgrading again, and trying to sell mine (no idea what I could even get for it -- a few hundred bucks maybe -- ouch). Soon after I bought it, I could have kicked myself for not knowing about 1080p being so close on the horizon.

Have you tried this site?
http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-discrete/thread.cgi?keywords=2792&highlight=samsung

I have. I wanted a single command that would enable/disable the internal mute without stepping thru the TV's menu. I don't think it exist. I've since set it up so internal mute is on and the AVR is always used....makes things simpler. ;)

I have heard this too, about 720p vs. 1080i, so I believe that. I don't really understand what 1080i means, other than it's not truly as good as 1080p -- something about alternating lines. What I'm wanting to know is whether or not I will see a big difference in Xbox 360 and Blu-Ray movies, between my 720p set and a 1080p one? I'm thinking about upgrading again, and trying to sell mine (no idea what I could even get for it -- a few hundred bucks maybe -- ouch). Soon after I bought it, I could have kicked myself for not knowing about 1080p being so close on the horizon.

There are two different specs here...."720" vs "1080" and "i" vs "p". The 720 (or 1080) only refers to the number of horizontal lines of pixels. On a set smaller than 50", you would probably never see a difference between the two...but the 720 would be cheaper. As far as interlaced (i) vs progressive (p), that goes back to how CRT picture tubes work. On an interlaced set, the lines are scanned by the electron beam twice per frame...once on the odd numbered lines then again on the even numbered lines. Progressive scan means each line is scanned in sequence...1, 2, 3, etc. With DLP, LCD and Plasma there are no electron guns and no scan lines, as it displays all the image pixels simultaneously (or nearly so), so it is actually a moot point....at least that's how I understand it. Don't you love the confusing marketing practices. :D

Sorry for the dumb question -- I think I'm right but want to make sure. If the difference will really not be much, then I will stick with this TV, but if a 1080p TV will give me a very nice benefit (w/ Xbox 360 too?), then I might have to upgrade. I figure, now that I have HD sources like the 360 and DVD player, as well as plenty of HD cable channels, I'd like to get the maximum picture quality -- as long as it would truly make a noticeable difference.

Most of the X360 games are 720p, so I would not upgrade just for it. The movies and tv shows they have available for download are also 720p. The HD DVD drive movies are 1080p, but that format is dead.

The PS3 may have more 1080p games available than the 360, but I believe the majority are 720p. Blu Ray movies are 1080p, but they still look very nice at 720p on this tv.

Of course tv prices are cheap, so if you want to upgrade go for it, but don't expect the majority of 360 games to be 1080p natively.

There are two different specs here...."720" vs "1080" and "i" vs "p". The 720 (or 1080) only refers to the number of horizontal lines of pixels. On a set smaller than 50", you would probably never see a difference between the two...but the 720 would be cheaper. As far as interlaced (i) vs progressive (p), that goes back to how CRT picture tubes work. On an interlaced set, the lines are scanned by the electron beam twice per frame...once on the odd numbered lines then again on the even numbered lines. Progressive scan means each line is scanned in sequence...1, 2, 3, etc. With DLP, LCD and Plasma there are no electron guns and no scan lines, as it displays all the image pixels simultaneously (or nearly so), so it is actually a moot point....at least that's how I understand it. Don't you love the confusing marketing practices. :D
Thanks for the explanation... So 1080p is certainly better than 720p, but questionably better than 1080i. Our TV is natively 720p, and uses a scaler to achieve 1080i, so 1080i material on our set will not be as good as it will be on a TV that is natively 1080i.

Most of the X360 games are 720p, so I would not upgrade just for it. The movies and tv shows they have available for download are also 720p. The HD DVD drive movies are 1080p, but that format is dead.

The PS3 may have more 1080p games available than the 360, but I believe the majority are 720p. Blu Ray movies are 1080p, but they still look very nice at 720p on this tv.

Of course tv prices are cheap, so if you want to upgrade go for it, but don't expect the majority of 360 games to be 1080p natively.
Thanks for the info... I didn't realize that most 360 games were 720p, just assumed that all of them for 360 and PS3 would be 1080p. Probably if the games were 1080p also, it would be worth upgrading now... But if that's not the case, then why throw away money. The majority of the movies I watch are SD anyway -- at least at this point.

Also keep in mind that in the next few years we'll have affordable 3d tv's (maybe without glasses). If you upgrade now you may want to upgrade in a few years for that...

Also keep in mind that in the next few years we'll have affordable 3d tv's (maybe without glasses). If you upgrade now you may want to upgrade in a few years for that...
Honestly? But wouldn't we need content specially designed for that? We see how long it took for us to get HD content...

I picked up a HLF5667W on craigslist. The guy I bought it from said he had no issues with the set. I've had it a few weeks now and occasionaly the tv will shut down and the 3 lights on the front will flash - after any amount of time I can turn the tv back on.

It has started to happen more frequently now that we've had it for awhile. The bulb has never been replaced and the service menu is showing almost 9500 hours.

I've read a lot on the board and it sounds like the culprit is most likely the main board - it looks like some people have fixed the flashing light issue just by replacing the bulb.

With almost 9500 hours is it possible that this problem is just from the bulb about to die?

I am having the sporadic loss of "blue" on my HLR 4667.

Most of the colors now show up as reds and greens.

I've tested, an it happens via component from my cable box and also via hdmi from my ps3.

But, when I pull up the menu, it comes up in its normal blue.

Does anyone know the cause of this? Board problem?

Have you tried using different cables?

I need to replace my lamp; hopefully the new one will get here Wednesday or Thursday. I know the code to get to the service menu, but have never used it. How do I go about resetting the hours after I change it? After going into the menu, how hard is it to mess something else up?

Have you tried using different cables?

I think it was a problem with the component cables. Although they felt like they were plugged in when I first checked them - I later discovered that one was a bit loose where it was plugged into the dvr (I can't really SEE those cables).

Obvioulsy, that was the first thing I checked.

The weird thing was that it would happen on some days but not others - AND when it did, I had the same problem on the HDMI input - so I sort of dismissed it as a problem with the component cable.

Very strange how the component cable being partially unplugged could affect the HDMI picture. . . I'm still not sure how that works.

Anyway, I hope that was the solution.

Greetings,
With my Sony XBR Tube, Panasonic PX85U, Sony XBR 4 LCD, I've either been able to find service menu settings to that enhance/calibrate the picture or I've found other optimized picture settings. I've haven't had any luck with my HLR4667W, I guess I can resort to Avia but I'm horrible at that. BTW i got this television for $189 because the component 2 doesn't work, even when something isn't plugged it still detects something is plugged in. It doesn't matter since i'm using an Onkyo TXSR806 which upconverts everything to 720p 1080i/p

I have a HLR5667W, which only has one hdmi cable and it went out about 3 months ago and so i switched to component, but i just got a blu-ray player for my birthday/

What is my course of action? I have tried the player on another TV and it functions well (including using the same hdmi cable) and I want to fix it.

The TV does not even detect that anything is plugged into the hdmi input (it does not say weak or no signal detected) so when you cycle through inputs hdmi is just skipped even if something is plugged in.

Can I open the back of the TV and check the connections? Is this a main board issue? Can it even be repaired?

I replaced the bulb and housing a few weeks ago (the old bulb had over 13,000 hours if you can believe it). Ever since then, the picture flickers pretty constantly. I've seen several posts in this thread with people asking why this happens, but there doesn't seem to be an answer.

I guess I'm just posting to say add me to the list. If anybody has a good idea that we can try, please post.

My bulb is still working. However, I've decided I'm gonna go ahead and change it due to the picture getting too dark. My question is do I need just a bulb or do I need the housing also? Can someone explain to me why a new housing is needed? Thanks

My bulb is still working. However, I've decided I'm gonna go ahead and change it due to the picture getting too dark. My question is do I need just a bulb or do I need the housing also? Can someone explain to me why a new housing is needed? Thanks

It makes the lamp replacement a five minute job instead of half an hour. It (getting housing and llamp) also makes the job "simpler", just a few screws unplug/replug, away ya go.

You can find videos showing how to re-use your old housing, but if you aren't mechanically inclined, I'd pay the extra bucks and get a lamp with housing.

I have the 5067 and I'm having a bit of a problem. I think the phenomena I am witnessing is called dithering? Yeah, how do I reduce it? I set all the DNIE settings to 0 but it is still there. I sit about 6 feet from my TV when I play games so that might be part of the problem. It still seems worse than it should be though.

My bulb is still working. However, I've decided I'm gonna go ahead and change it due to the picture getting too dark. My question is do I need just a bulb or do I need the housing also? Can someone explain to me why a new housing is needed? Thanks

I am thinking the same. I really notice it when I alter my viewing angle. Everything else seems to be working fine. I figure this will get me another 3-4 years before I upgrade this set.

Since I'm a cheapskate I just replaced the bulb and reused the casing. The main thing is tht there are 2 types of bulb/casings, so you need to make sure the bulb you order is the correct one. If you buy the bulb with casing it doesn't matter which one you get. I bought the bulb from an ebay retailer and they had pictures of the 2 different bulbs and casings, plus they had a video of the bulb replacement (just taking screws and a nut out, pretty easy and all you need is a screwdriver and needlenose pliers). The retailer even sent one latex glove to replace the bulb with.

I recently noticed that when playing games I can't adjust the brightness to a level that is high enough to see the image they want me to. I went into the service menu and I have over 7500 hours on the original bulb. I just ordered a replacement bulb from samsungparts.com.

This might be like getting a new TV after replacement. I am pretty excited because since realizing how bad the bulb is it has driven me crazy.

The only thing I didn't like was having to pull the old bulb out before ordering the new one to make sure I ordered the correct bulb.

I have had my TV for about 3 years now and I have had to replace the color wheel once and the bulb once. My bulb had over 12000 hours on it when it finally died.

FYI, the color wheel makes an absolutely horrible noise when it shatters and the colors look horrible but it should not turn your TV off. Mine still worked fine but we didn't watch it because of the racket and the poor colors. The color wheel replacement took about 45 minutes and very detailed instructions are available on the internet.

The lamp will give you signs that it is going out. The TV will seem to be far too dark and you will find yourself raising the brightness setting to compensate for it. The other thing that you may notice is the set will dim, but not flicker, noticeably while watching it. It may also increase in brightness after dimming. This may be a sign of another problem but my TV stopped doing it when I replaced the lamp.

As far as lamp replacement if you can take the screw out to remove the housing you can just as easily take out the other seven screws to replace the lamp in the housing. I took the longer route because of the many lamps used in the production of these televisions. They used at least three different manufacturers to produce their lamps and by replacing just the lamp you can use the exact numbers on your lamp itself to find a replacement to get the proper lamp instead of using the housing number which may contain a Phillips or an Osram lamp as was the case with my TV. This repair will take between 5 and 15 minutes depending on which route you choose. If you choose to replace only the lamp wear gloves when handling it. YOU DO NOT WANT TO GET OIL FROM YOUR HANDS ON THE LAMP!!!!! THIS CAN, AND VERY LIKELY WILL, SHORTEN THE LIFE OF YOUR LAMP

This TV has worked flawlessly since I purchased it. When you put a new lamp in it your TV will look like it did the day that you took it out of the box.

I hope that this post helps allay some of your fears and apprehensions. Just be aware that a burnt out lamp does not make your TV junk. Lamps will never work forever and their life cycle can be greatly lengthened by not cycling your TV on and off. If you need to run to the store and will be back in less than a couple of hours it REALLY is better for the lamp to just leave your TV on. These are very high output lamps and the current needed to fire them up can be up to five times the current to keep them lit. Turning it on and off is far worse than leaving it on. It is even more damaging to fire them up when they are still hot from their last run cycle.

Happy watching guys, you really do have a great set!

^^^It's great to read a post like this. I've owned my HL-R5067W for almost 3½ years. It's still on the original bulb (don't know how many hours are on it, as I haven't checked in over a year). So far it's still going strong - knock on wood. Hopefully the only problem I'll have to deal with in the near future is replacing the bulb!

I agree, the bulb has been great on these TVs. 5700 hours and still going strong.

...I wish I could say the same about the rest of the TV (HL-R5667W), which is now sitting in the garage until I can find a new home for it. :( 2 days ago the sole HDMI input fried, all other inputs still work fine. I didn't really feel like putting money into getting this fixed considering the other problems I've had during my 3 years of ownership. New light engine after 1yr (Stuck mirrors), light tunnel issue that fixed itself, intermittent noise coming from the color wheel or one of the fans, and now dead HDMI.

I'm probably in the minority when it comes to problems, it just seems like so much has gone wrong with something that should last for more than 3 years, especially considering how much it cost back in '05.

Oh well. Moving on... :)

I have a HL-R4667W. Beginning today, the display continuously shows two dialog boxes on all inputs that I can't turn off. The first is the input banner in the upper left hand corner ("AV2-Game"). The second is smack dab in the middle of the screen and has the green "information" icon along with a message that states "No signal or weak signal".

I have a directv box, dvd and wii hooked up to the set. All provide a strong signal on their respective inputs. The above two messages are displayed on all inputs while the sources are either on or off.

The TV's standard menu won't come up. Neither will the service menu that I tried to access using "mute, 1, 8, 2".

I unplugged for at least five minutes without success.

Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated. I imagine that I'll need a tech to come out to the house but wanted some idea of what I can expect.

Thanks in advance.

I have a HL-R4667W. Beginning today, the display continuously shows two dialog boxes on all inputs that I can't turn off. The first is the input banner in the upper left hand corner ("AV2-Game"). The second is smack dab in the middle of the screen and has the green "information" icon along with a message that states "No signal or weak signal".


Unfortunately this is almost the same situation I had with my HL-R5667W 2 days ago only it was the HDMI input. The bugger is that the unit knew an HDMI cable was plugged in, if I unplugged it the message would change to "Check Signal Cable" I think it was, basically telling me the cable wasn't plugged in. I plugged in multiple HDMI cables and each one produced the same results; "No signal or weak signal."

The digital input module for my TV runs ~$400 which isn't a whole lot less than the TV itself it worth. :( The analog input module should be a bit cheaper I think and replacing these parts is actually quite simple, at least on my 56" set. The guts are quite modular and all come out the back with minimal disassembly.

Good luck!

My problem has been solved by unplugging and rebooting the TV. I thought I tried that on Friday evening but, turns out, I was unplugging my hdmi cable and not the power.

Best not to troubleshoot electronics problems after happy hour.

I have a HL-R5067W and recently I have a weird picture problem. The picture used to be the entire screen but now I have a transparent area on the left side of the tv. It is in the area of where the black bars would be. I have also noticed that text at the bottom of the screen is now cut in half (only the top portion of letters visible) when it used to be fully visible. This is on all inputs including output from the DVD player and the Wii. Any ideas as to the problem and a solution? I have pictures that show this problem.

Hey I just got an hlr5067 that has the exact same problem. if anyone can look at these pictures (post 3724 on this thread, page 125) and give us an idea of what to do that would be great.

Hey I just got an hlr5067 that has the exact same problem. if anyone can look at these pictures (post 3724 on this thread, page 125) and give us an idea of what to do that would be great.

Same here. Just popped up a few days ago. I have an HL-R6167W built in 2005. My transparent bar is only 1" wide, but annoys me just the same as I paid over $2000 for this set.

Anyone with any ideas about this, it will be much appreciated to get some advice. I have a service request in with Samsung, chatted live with one of their CS flunkies who didn't know a thing about it. As repair estimates come in, I'll post.

OK, it is a light engine issue, known manufacturer's defect. Call 1-800-SAMSUNG to file a service request. They will pay for the entire repair even if the TV is out of warranty.

Apparently 1000s of Samsung DLPs have had this problem.

Google Samsung HL-R6167W light engine

Hi,

I have a Samsung HLRxx67W which is close to 3 yrs old I believe. Not sure how many hours are on it though it gets daily use. Never have changed the bulb or had to fix anything.

Recently I have started to see blotches / grainy spots on the screen that move around depending on the picture and lighting effects. They are increasingly getting more noticeable and bigger the more I use the TV. Again, they could be anywhere on the the TV, not one particular spot. Does anyone have any idea what could cause this? Is it something that can be fixed relatively cheap?

I will try to take a pic and post here if shows on the image.

Any information would be much appreciated...Thanks.

I've had the 5667 since 2005 and this is my 1st issue, reading some posts above, I think I might have missed one step in my troubleshooting (unplugging the tv), so I'll try that tonight, but just in case...here's the situation.

I'm using a hdmi switch with a sony dvd player, a sony blu-ray player, and a directv hd-dvr box.
On saturday, my son went to play a dvd - unfortunately I don't know the state of the tv or the hdmi switch, but the end-result was that hdmi is not working for either the dvd or the blu-ray. but the directv player continued to work fine.

I took the switch out of the equation and plugged the dvd player straight into the tv via hdmi - still no input (handshake) - same with the bluray.
tried different cables - same non-result.
unplugged/plugged-in dvd and bluray-same non-result.


i plugged my appletv into the hdmi switch and I can switch between directv and appletv with no problems.

dvd and blu-ray work fine via component video

other than hard power-cycling the tv - any other suggestions?

what setting in both the dvd and the blu-ray could have been messed with that would cause this suddenly and to both machines at the same time?

[QUOTE=ccmd00d;16016240]Hi,

I have a Samsung HLRxx67W which is close to 3 yrs old I believe. Not sure how many hours are on it though it gets daily use. Never have changed the bulb or had to fix anything.

I have the same TV. Do you use Cablecard? Do you get TVGOS?

Thanks Gregg

Hello everyone, I've had my HLR4266 for about 3 years and have been pretty happy with the set thusfar. I just recently switched over to purchasing blu ray movies and currently look pretty good to me. Recently I've been thinking about getting a new 1080p (Samsung 61" led dlp or panasonic 50" plasma) set but I'm unsure if there will be a significant increase in pq over my current HLR4266. ( Watching distance of 8-9')

I'm wondering if anyone as any first hand experience with any of these three sets?

Will the $$ spent on a newer set over my current HLR4266 be worth it?

Also any suggestions as far as to which route you would choose would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for taking the time to read this.

unplugging/waiting/plugging the TV back in did the trick and fixed the problem...



I've had the 5667 since 2005 and this is my 1st issue, reading some posts above, I think I might have missed one step in my troubleshooting (unplugging the tv), so I'll try that tonight, but just in case...here's the situation.

I'm using a hdmi switch with a sony dvd player, a sony blu-ray player, and a directv hd-dvr box.
On saturday, my son went to play a dvd - unfortunately I don't know the state of the tv or the hdmi switch, but the end-result was that hdmi is not working for either the dvd or the blu-ray. but the directv player continued to work fine.

I took the switch out of the equation and plugged the dvd player straight into the tv via hdmi - still no input (handshake) - same with the bluray.
tried different cables - same non-result.
unplugged/plugged-in dvd and bluray-same non-result.


i plugged my appletv into the hdmi switch and I can switch between directv and appletv with no problems.

dvd and blu-ray work fine via component video

other than hard power-cycling the tv - any other suggestions?

what setting in both the dvd and the blu-ray could have been messed with that would cause this suddenly and to both machines at the same time?

Well it's now 3 weeks hence from my initial complaint to Samsung. Just to refresh, the set is experiencing the classic "light tunnel" issue of a transparent vertical bar running the entire height of the left side, approximately 3" wide now.

A service tech came to my home and changed out a part (sorry, not sure which one), the repair did not alleviate the problem. He told me it was the DMD board. The research I have done on DMD board problems indicates that the most common symptom is the bright light pixels or star effect. My set does not exhibit this symptom, just the vertical bar common to the light tunnel defect.

I was informed by the service tech that this repair was not covered under factory recall by Samsung. This was confirmed by calling Samsung service. My case has now been kicked upstairs to some executive level of customer service. We'll see. The light engine will cost $815 to repair on a $2600 set that is just about 3 years old.

If I am not satisfied by their response, I pledge to make it my life's mission to cost Samsung as many sales as possible.

Anyone with any knowledge of DMD board problems or ongoing class-action lawsuits as a result of Samsung's seeming unwillingness to take responsibility for crappy manufacturing, please respond to this post. Thanks.

I'm new to the thread, so bear with me, I've tried to find a message and answer for my specific issue but could not. I have the buzzing sound like is well documented here in these forums, but my problem is somewhat unique (I think).

I know the issue is the color wheel rubbing on the color wheel housing. And I've purchased
and replaced the color wheel (just the wheel). After putting the set back together and turning it on, the sound did not go away, the buzzing was quieter but still there. I took the set apart again and cut out 5 nickle sized discs of tin foil and put them between the wheel base and the color wheel housing mount. After putting the set back together and turning it on there was no buzzing sound. The 5 pieces of tin foil pushed the wheel away just enough so it wouldn't rub (I'm pretty sure the old color wheel was fine, but have already given it to the kids). 3 weeks later, the buzzing is back. My only option I can think of is adding more "shims" in between the wheel motor and the wheel housing mount to push it further away from the spot where it is rubbing.

Has anyone experienced this problem, is there another solution? I don't have a lot of cash, so I'd prefer to avoid buying a new color wheel, "with the housing this time"...

MM

Apparently I'm in the wrong place, no one is posting here.... Can someone at least point me to a more active Samsung HLRxx67W Thread? Or site?

I believe I have the digital board problem. TV turns on for 3 minutes then shuts off with the light flashing on the front. I have had the TV for a couple of years and the warranty is up. What do I do to get it replaced and any idea what it is going to cost?

Thanks

Apparently I'm in the wrong place, no one is posting here.... Can someone at least point me to a more active Samsung HLRxx67W Thread? Or site?

You & I are it. What's your location, I'm in Northern CA, Chico Comcast Cable.
"Sometime the magic work, sometime it don't" Little Big Man.

Gregg

I believe I have the digital board problem. TV turns on for 3 minutes then shuts off with the light flashing on the front. I have had the TV for a couple of years and the warranty is up. What do I do to get it replaced and any idea what it is going to cost?

Thanks

My TV has been switching off. Maybe once every 2 hours or so, sometimes a few times an hour. On Friday, out of frustration, I took a can of compressed air and sprayed through the air vents in the back. It has not switched off once this weekend. It may be a coincidence, try it, what do you have to lose?

My digital board went bad a couple years back. The TV was still under factory warrenty though, so all it took was a call to Samsung and they sent someone out(on a Saturday!) and he swapped it out in about 10 minutes.

Symptons were the same as you guys described, it would just turn off, with a light or two(can't remember which ones) flashing. I'd turn it on again, and it would go off within a few minutes.

I would think a new light board/engine would cost at least a couple hundred bucks, if they still make them.

I kinda wish that would happen to mine since I have a 5 year extended warrenty on it, and they tell me they cannot order the part anymore so I have to get a replacement model, or even better a credit towards the purchase of an new Samsung LCD:) At the time I bought my 5667, the comparably sized plasmas costed a lot more $. And LCDs had yet to be made above 32''

I hope they still make the part that would be frustrating to have my $1,500 now a giant paper weight.

How long was the stock warranty?

Stock warrenty was 12 months, but I believe you got an extra 3 months by registering the product with Samsung. I got a 5yr(starts after my orig warrenty) for 250, which seemed like a decent deal at the time. That these DLPs have many mechanical parts and bulbs, that just a part can be replaced was why I went for it. Flat panel TVs don't have a few big parts like DLPs do.

I cringe at what I paid for my 5667 back in the summer of 2005, I think it was around 2300, LOL. I could probably get a 50'' 1080P LCD for half of that.

Knock on wood though, I've been pretty happy with mine and still use it and see no reason to get rid of it. Although it doesn't help that the 32'' 720P Panasonic LCD I got for the bedroom looks better/sharper, and only costed $499...

I looked mine up paid $1,700 Feb of 06 so warranty is not an option. Anyone have any idea how to get this fixed or where to buy parts?

I got my 5667W in July '05 from Circuit City with their Advantage Plan warranty for 4 years, which included one free bulb replacement. We all know that CC is no more, and I discovered my bulb has 9,036 hours on it. Anyone else in this situation, or know how I can figure out who will honor my plan since it isn't expired until July of this year? Thanks!

Well, I got the bulb replacement taken care of. My question is will the tv notify me that I need to change it or will it just go out or what? I have noticed that some channels do appear darker than I think they normally should. Maybe this is a sign it's going to die soon? Since there is over 9,000 hours, that does seem plausible, but I just wondered when I should swap it out since I want to get all the usage from my original bulb.

Well, I got the bulb replacement taken care of. My question is will the tv notify me that I need to change it or will it just go out or what? I have noticed that some channels do appear darker than I think they normally should. Maybe this is a sign it's going to die soon? Since there is over 9,000 hours, that does seem plausible, but I just wondered when I should swap it out since I want to get all the usage from my original bulb.

It won't "notify" you persay, when things just get too dark and enough unlike the original brightness, it's probably time to change the bulb. Of course if the bulb were to quit working or have a problem, then the corresponding lights blink on the front panel.

Wait to change it till you can't stand it anymore, if you want to milk everything out of the old bulb.

I haven't ventured into the service menu to check my bulb life, but I haven't noticed it really being any dimmer, this bulb is a little over 3 yrs old...

This is the problem I just started having with my set. Has anybody else had this problem? If so, do you know what the root of the problem was? is it just a lamp that needs to be replaced or something bigger, more costly?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2HOIKmWOW3I

If it's gonna cost >$500, i think i'm better off just buying a new tv

Thanks for your help.

here's my situation...Just replaced the color wheel in my Sammy, pit it back together and the screen is shifted evenly across an inch or two high...i just need to know what adjustments need to be made where and how..if you could that would be most awesome..look forward to hearing back from ya'..thanks Kurt

here's my situation...Just replaced the color wheel in my Sammy, pit it back together and the screen is shifted evenly across an inch or two high...i just need to know what adjustments need to be made where and how..if you could that would be most awesome..look forward to hearing back from ya'..thanks Kurt

Hopefully you will get some additional, more authoritative replies, however here are some notes I saved on this in case I ever needed/wanted to try it.

I have not tried this so proceed with caution.

Vertical / Horizontal Position Adjustment
1. Turn off the power to put the unit into the STAND-BY mode.
2. In order to enter the Service Mode, Press "Mute" ? "1" ? "8" ? "2" ? "POWER" button on the Remote Control.
3. Select "Service" on the first display of the Service mode menu.
4. Select the V-position for vertical positioning and H-position for horizontal positioning by using the ? ? (up, down) buttons.
? Do not set the V-position value to 34 or 35. (Setting to these values will cause horizontal lines on the right side of the screen.)

All,
Just had the digitial board(main) replaced on my HLR5667 under extended warranty; picture would lock up periodically and tuner input was green in color. This is fixed now, but the color reproduction is really muddy; shadows have alot of switching green, alot of shadow type backgrounds are unsteady.

With the original board I don't recall doing alot of calibration to get good color; certainly not the service menu or anything. Is this something I can adjust out, or should I just get the Best Buy tech to come back and fix? Anything they should have done after replacing the board, that I can do now?

Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks.

I'm new to the thread, so bear with me, I've tried to find a message and answer for my specific issue but could not. I have the buzzing sound like is well documented here in these forums, but my problem is somewhat unique (I think).

I know the issue is the color wheel rubbing on the color wheel housing. And I've purchased
and replaced the color wheel (just the wheel). After putting the set back together and turning it on, the sound did not go away, the buzzing was quieter but still there. I took the set apart again and cut out 5 nickle sized discs of tin foil and put them between the wheel base and the color wheel housing mount. After putting the set back together and turning it on there was no buzzing sound. The 5 pieces of tin foil pushed the wheel away just enough so it wouldn't rub (I'm pretty sure the old color wheel was fine, but have already given it to the kids). 3 weeks later, the buzzing is back. My only option I can think of is adding more "shims" in between the wheel motor and the wheel housing mount to push it further away from the spot where it is rubbing.

Has anyone experienced this problem, is there another solution? I don't have a lot of cash, so I'd prefer to avoid buying a new color wheel, "with the housing this time"...

MM

A couple months later....

I added more shims (2 thin sheets of tin now) and the sound, again went away for a while. But it's now coming back! I'm pretty sure after a few more weeks the sound will be drowning out the TV speakers again and I'll have to take it apart and try something new!

Does anyone know if there is a way to buy the entire color wheel housing? I don't want just the wheel, or just the housing. I want the whole package as one piece. That way there's no chance the pieces will not fit together properly like they are now.

Has ANYONE experienced this problem? What do the TV repair guys do in these cases?

All,
I have a 61" Samsung 720p DLP model HL-R6167W.

I have had it for a few years now, I think I bought it in 05 or 06 when it came out new.

I have used the PIP for working on the computer and watching cable component input signal before, but I for some reason forgot that I have a split screen option in the menu. But it is always greyed out and I can't select either of the bottom two PIP size options for split screen.

I searched but couldn't find the exact answer. Can someone please tell me what combination of inputs need to be used to be able to run split screen side by side PIP? Ideally, I would like to run computer VGA input on one half and HDMI cable input on the other half, but I'm not sure how the resolution would work with that.

thanks,
Teague

Check out page 132 of the user manual (http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200509/20050902121438187_BP68-00469A-02Eng_0902.pdf).

Check out page 132 of the user manual (http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200509/20050902121438187_BP68-00469A-02Eng_0902.pdf).

That page doesn't mention split screen, so I'm not sure if that is different.

Based on that page I should be able to operate the PC on the main channel and component2 on the PIP or secondary. Only QAM and ATSC don't work with PC in PIP mode.

BUT, I try that (Running PC on the selected input, then going to PIP in the "Picture" menu and select component1 or 2) and the 2 split screen options are still grayed out.

Thanks,
Teague

That page doesn't mention split screen, so I'm not sure if that is different.

Based on that page I should be able to operate the PC on the main channel and component2 on the PIP or secondary. Only QAM and ATSC don't work with PC in PIP mode.

BUT, I try that (Running PC on the selected input, then going to PIP in the "Picture" menu and select component1 or 2) and the 2 split screen options are still grayed out.

Thanks,
Teague

Any Ideas?

so, i seem to have posted about this tv back in 2005, when I first got it.

4 years later, and i's finally dying. I -think- it's the analog side of things, but can't be sure, since I'm getting a decent signal from the old VGA cable.

Lamp life is at 6666h

component in's have started to 'flicker' and jitter, and lose sync once in a while, especially when the TV thinks it's not getting a full signal (such as during scene changes/fade-to-blacks coming from the HD-DVR cable box, or my Xbox360)

We've also heard what might've been the fan dying (grinding sound, reminiscent of a PC fan getting stuck)

colors are all there, so I think the colorwheel is still intact.

We got the 'all 3 words on' going yesterday. After a while, the tv decided it'd let us watch the redbox rental, and stayed on for another 6 hours.

AV1 (composite) is also fine, no jitters or anything. (well, other than the image looks horrible comparatively... composite and 480i looks quite depressing on this tv)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Any known firmware updates for this unit?

I just had a local repair shop take my 56" HLR-5667W today, I have a warranty from Circuit City and they're the ones that are taking care of it. My HDMI port suddenly stopped working a little over a year ago and I finally decided to get it fixed, I had tried different HDMI cords and devices and nothing worked, and it just suddenly stopped working while playing a game one night, just flickered for a second and died.

Anyway, the shop told me a couple days ago they're going to have to replace the digital board cause that's what the HDMI port is a part of. Does anybody have any experience with this? I'm extremely nervous and anxious about all of this, especially the part about them taking it for what I was told will be a week. I'm scared it's going to get messed up in the truck to or from there, or that the replacement of such a large part is going to cause a series of long, drawn-out problems in the future.

I just had a local repair shop take my 56" HLR-5667W today, I have a warranty from Circuit City and they're the ones that are taking care of it. My HDMI port suddenly stopped working a little over a year ago and I finally decided to get it fixed, I had tried different HDMI cords and devices and nothing worked, and it just suddenly stopped working while playing a game one night, just flickered for a second and died.

Anyway, the shop told me a couple days ago they're going to have to replace the digital board cause that's what the HDMI port is a part of. Does anybody have any experience with this? I'm extremely nervous and anxious about all of this, especially the part about them taking it for what I was told will be a week. I'm scared it's going to get messed up in the truck to or from there, or that the replacement of such a large part is going to cause a series of long, drawn-out problems in the future.

Digital board is essentially the guts of the TV I think. I believe that is what was replaced with mine, not a year after I got it. I had issues with the TV just turning off at random times and lights flashing. Tech came to my place and just replaced the digital board(in about 10 minutes, he was very fast and knew exactly what he was doing). This was under factory warrenty.

Also I think the bulb/lamp attaches to or is a part of the digital board, so you might get a new bulb/lamp out of the deal as well. I can't remember thought, it has been over 3 years since that happened. I still have another year on my extended warrenty, I am hoping that if something goes wrong with it, they do not carry the part(s) anymore and are forced to give me something comparable that is new:)

Why the heck did they have to take my TV for over a week when it sounded like they could do it here at my house, and then once they found out I was a warranty through circuit city, it changed to this huge ordeal where they have to take it away. This is ridiculous, and I'm going to go crazy if anything happens to it in the truck or at their shop because of all this crap.

Under extended warranties, mine at least, you only get one new bulb and you're done (You get one under the 1 year factory warranty, and then one under the E.W.) so they better not replace my bulb yet.

It's now Tuesday and they've had my TV since Thursday afternoon. I called there Friday and just asked some general questions and said I was nervous about this whole thing and she made me feel a little better but said they wouldn't know much until they looked at it and had an estimation/assessment on what they would be doing with it. They're now three hours from closing for the day, so I'm going to call there in a few minutes. She said it's possible they could repair the HDMI port without replacing the digital board as well.

I've had my HL-R5667W since 2005, and the bulb now has over 10,000 hours on it. I have a replacement bulb, but the original is still working just fine but may be slightly dimmer than normal. Should I replace the bulb or just wait for this one to totally go out? Is there a risk leaving the older one in it?

...I just wondered when I should swap it out since I want to get all the usage from my original bulb.

Consider swapping the bulb ASAP in order to have a working emergency back-up.

There's no risk to leaving it in, it just won't work someday, that's it. You could do what the other guy says and use it as a back-up when your second bulb goes.

Also, I still don't have my TV, it's been 12 days now. They called me 6 days ago and told me they are replacing the digital module and it would take 4-5 business days to recieve. I was called again on Friday and told the same stuff (it was weird) amd then I asked if I'd have it this week and she said yes. I'm about to call there now and see what is happening.

Anyone have any idea how I determine which color wheel I am supposed to used to replace the broken one in my HLR4667w?

I see two on samsung parts (let's not mention the fact that both are on national backorder):

1. BP96-00674A - which says it is "COLOR WHEEL (PHILLIPS) FOR CHASSIS (L3)"

http://www.samsungparts.com/part_detail.asp?catalog%5Fname=Parts+and+Accessories&product%5Fid=BP96-00674A&search%5Fmodel=HLR4667W

2. BP96-01103A
Description: COLOR WHEEL / FOR CHASSIS (L6)


http://www.samsungparts.com/part_detail.asp?catalog%5Fname=Parts+and+Accessories&product%5Fid=BP96-01103A&search%5Fmodel=HLR4667W

How do you determine the Lamp hours used? Is it in the menu? I looked but could not find it.

Hello all, I have the HL-R5067W model and all of a sudden it won't turn on. Well, that isn't necessarily correct. What's happening is, when I turn the tv on, the screen starts to come on, the lamp light flashes for about 10 seconds, and then the tv automatically shuts off. I can see from behind that the lamp is on, and the screen does appear to get lighter like it's trying to come on. However, nothing ever shows up on the screen, not even the video mode it's in.

Any thoughts on what could be the problem? Thanks in advance for any help!!!

My 46" is doing the same thing. I took it to a repair shop Friday and they diagnosed it as a circuit board mailfunction. They have ordered the part and the cost of the repair and part is $350. If this fixes everything I'll be so happy to no longer have to watch our 27" Sammy CRT from our bedroom in our living room.

How do you determine the Lamp hours used? Is it in the menu? I looked but could not find it.
It's in the Service Menu, but enter at your own risk.

I'm also trying to determine which color wheel I need for my HLR6167W since it's buzzing a lot. Sometimes it would buzz, sometimes not. But it looks like now we've blown the lamp since we had to unplug the tv repeatedly to stop the buzzing. It was an old lamp so no biggie. The back of the tv says I have an L64B chassis and when I went to partstore I figured this would be easy enough since they label which parts for which chassis.

So just to be safe I went ahead and opened up the back of the tv and the lamp housing actually has a lamp part number on it. BUT.... It's printed with the lamp part number for an L3 chassis. Aaarggh. So I went ahead and dismantled everything and according to samsung parts, my color wheel and housing match the picture for the L3 chassis color wheel. So at this point, should I ignore the "L6" printed on the back of the TV?

At least now I know it's definitely the color wheel since spinning it by hand, it's not spinning freely and smoothly and it's making bad noises.

I bought this tv when it first came out. Which chassis came out first? I assume L3 came out before L6?

It's in the Service Menu, but enter at your own risk.

How do I get to the service menu and why "enter at your own risk?"

Search this thread for the terms "service menu". Here's just one of the results of that search - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=14935133&highlight=service+menu#post14935133

Enter at your own risk because you could accidentally change settings.

The color wheel broke on my TV. Ordered the part and am waiting for it to arrive, but I think I unplugged one too many wires in the tv. Does someone have a service manual or some pictures of the the wires conected to the right places in the section behind the connection ports? Most of them seem to match up by size, but I would really like to make sure before I plug it back in with the part fixed.

Thanks.

Went to watch a DVD tonight, and the TV is jacked up. Green bars will flash on the screen every now and then, the image would freeze, but the sound would continue thru my receiver. I ejected the disc from the player, and the image was still frozen on the screen. Problem happens w/ TV also (different input), so I know it's not the source that's the problem. I unplugged everything for a few minutes and tried again... The problem was worse -- this time the TV just acted funny for a while, and eventually turned itself off, a few mins after I had pushed the power button to turn it off. Not sure if it just took a long time to respond or if it never received the signal from the remote and just decided to shut down of its own volition.

Now the question... Light engine or digital board? I guess I will call my local repair shop and see what they say. I think I have had the TV since about April 2006, so about 3.5 years. I feel a $1500 investment should give a lot more service than that, but this is the world we live in today.

I had a reputable repair man tell me that a particular IC on the digital board is not operating properly. This was causing my picture to freeze, inputs to go in and out, occasional green and garbled screen, etc. Quoted me $700+ to replace the whole light engine.

Well, some clever folks at the following forum have identified the DNIe chip as the possible culprit. Turns out this BGA chip is not adhering to the board properly (corner BGA balls maybe loose or cracked due to poor solder / numerous thermal cycles perhaps?). Here's the first post with the initial fix and pictures of the chip on the board:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/samsung/20551-i-think-i-found-way-fix-digital-board-hlr5067w.html

Here's the latest post with a more reliable "clamp" to put pressure on the DNIe chip, allowing for all BGA connections to get proper connection to the digital board. Hopefully this is a solution to those of us who gave up on this set long ago...!
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/samsung/20791-hlr6167wax-xaa-digital-board-problems.html

Thanks to Jason1976/Icaillo/tito for their detective work.

Thanks to Justin1976/Icaillo/tito for their detective work.

I belong to this one too. I joined here but never posted anything until now. I forgot my password and had to wait for a password reset email. I was going to start a new topic with this fix but it wont let me post url's until i have so many post. it thinks i am trying to spam. I was going to name it "hlr4667w hlr5067w hlr5667w hlr6067w digital board fix." and list the issues that this fix seams to take care of. tv lamp light flashing but doesn't come on then goes to standby mode. green screen, green plaid, scrambled screen, restarting, pic going out and coming back over and over, and remote control not responding. it takes care of a lot of issues.

What is a good HDMI switcher that people have successfully used with this tv?

Here's the latest post with a more reliable "clamp" to put pressure on the DNIe chip, allowing for all BGA connections to get proper connection to the digital board. Hopefully this is a solution to those of us who gave up on this set long ago...!
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/samsung/20791-hlr6167wax-xaa-digital-board-problems.html
The symptoms described in your link are exactly what I have been seeing w/ my 5067. The shop that I called today quoted me about $800 for the digital board, and $300 more to install it -- having paid ~1300 for the set, this is obviously not an option. Even if I could get the part myself though, for ~300, it sounds like I'd have to wait forever to get it, and be without our TV for who knows how long. I'm not OK with that either.

Seems like my best bet is to try this fix, in hopes that it will buy me a bit of time while I try to figure out what is the best set to buy this next time (horrible, after having this set for only 3.5 years). I really have no clue about where to look for ratings, etc. Does anyone have any ideas there?

Enter at your own risk because you could accidentally change settings.

I've stayed out of the service menu on my HL-R4667W ever since I discovered that just by entering it, you reset all of the user menu picture settings back to the factory defaults. So if you've spent a lot of time tweaking the various brightness/contrast/color/sharpness settings for each of your inputs, they go bye-bye every time you just enter the service menu.

I just replaced my first ever burned out lamp after almost four years of heavy use, and even then I resisted the urge to go in to see how many hours I had racked up or to reset it back to zero. I just did some math and figure with my set's daily on/off schedule, it had to be just under 12,000 hours on the original lamp. Amazing.

My lamp had noticeably dimmed over the last several months, and last Tuesday about two minutes after I powered it up for the first time of the day after work, there was a dull "poof" and the picture went dark and I had mucho flashing LEDs on the front. When I checked the bulb, the glass tube inside the overall glass enclosure of the lamp housing was totally shattered so I had a pretty good clue it was time to replace the lamp.

Got the new color wheel. It helps if you don't pull out both trays, since you only need the light portion. It also helps that the connections on the logic side are not one size fits all.

I found multiple instructions on the 'net for getting into and replacing the wheel.
The most difficult parts were this:

1. The screws holding the old wheel in place were not phillips, they were torx 6. I now have a nice screw kit from radio shack that has 20 small heads for those tiny screws that I will encounter in life.

2. take pictures. Lots. as in every step of the way. especially when you have to route that brown flat cable through the silver piece for the color wheel.

3. Before inserting the new color wheel, unscrew the heat shield that blocks most of the light from the lamp bulb. Pull that out slightly, but don't remove it entirely. Insert the new color wheel, then put the heat shield back in place.
If you don't, the new wheel won't fit nicely and you'll hear small scratching noises.


The tv works nice now, although I had a scare on Monday when the hdmi port caused a green flashing screen. After more research, entering the service menu, testing out the colors, it worked fine.
(Also surprising that I have a little over 5100 hours on the original lamp.)

I've stayed out of the service menu on my HL-R4667W ever since I discovered that just by entering it, you reset all of the user menu picture settings back to the factory defaults. So if you've spent a lot of time tweaking the various brightness/contrast/color/sharpness settings for each of your inputs, they go bye-bye every time you just enter the service menu.
Just write down your settings and keep them in a safe place. I keep my list of settings for each input with my DVE DVD. I rarely go into the Service Menu though. I probably haven't been in there in 2-3 years and I've had the TV since Oct. '05.

I'll be kissing mine goodbye, as it seems to have the known defect with the digital board. The only Samsung certified shop in my state wants $800 for the part and $300 to install it. Of course that's not an option, but even if the price were to be lower, another of the known issues with this TV could surface (light tunnel, color wheel explosion, or just the bulb failing), and I wouldn't want to invest anything more into this obsolete set. It really burns me up to have to re-spend all this money again, after only 3.5 years, but all I can do is take it as a learning experience. The main thing is that TVs no longer last for years and years, so always buy the extended warranty. Of course, the warranty I got on the new one (Sharp 52" LCD) is 4yrs, so if something happens outside of that I'll be in the same boat again. I might have to just abandon TV at that point, as it's not worth $400 a year to me. :mad:

Yea, the reason I bought the warrenty on this was really because it did have mechanical parts to it, and a bulb. I got a decent deal, I think it was $150 for 5 years from date of purchase and at the time, I paid over 2k for the TV in Aug 2005(HLR-5667)

Of course it's held up pretty well, save a few little quirks. Still on the original bulb, brightness looks fine to me. I did have the digital board replaced under factory warrenty about 8 months after I got it, because it was shutting off on it's own.

I do like that flat panels don't really have any "mechanical" parts to them, and if something goes in them, it's not likely it's a simple cheap part, like many things in a car, for example. I'd be much less likely to buy a warrenty for an LCD or plasma with how "cheap" they have gotten. I won't buy another DLP again, despite the fact that mine has been pretty reliable.

The little things in this set like TVGOS(which I still use and it works), firewire inputs and CableCARD are IMPOSSIBLE to find in a modern HDTV. Impossible. That is what will make it hard to give up when the time comes.

My HLR 6768 just lost the color wheel. I placed an order at an online parts store only to find out it was on back order. I found another place online that said they had stock only to find out the same thing, they can't get them for like 3 weeks.

I looked on ebay with no luck. The Samsung part number is BP96-01103A, pretty common as it fits many sets.

Does anyone know what gives, and is there a reason why this part is hard to find. I would think somebody would have one of these sitting in a warehouse somewhere.

:confused:

I just had a thought, could I simply get a different color wheel for a similar TV and replace just the motor and wheel in my housing instead of replacing the whole unit housing and everything?

If you don't mind removing the back, you can forestall or eliminate the need to replace colorwheels and bulbs by vaccuuming out the dust that accumulates inside the projection TV in a normal dusty environment. That includes the two fans inside that can clog up with this normal room dust. Once inside, the heat and debris can take out the set's components as it blankets them. You end up with mounting heat retention and physical obstruction that reduces components lifespan. Another tip: in addition to apower line conditioner that protects sensitive electronics, a smart addition to your media center room(s) is a hepa filter equipped air cleaner machine -- it nips the problem in the bud as an ounce of prevention for all your gear.

My HL-R6167W's digital board started flaking out pretty heavily the past week (exactly as described above, with the picture freezing, going black, flashing with green stripes, even a couple of full screen green 'plaid-like' effects.)

I had forgot I had purchased a 5 year extended warranty for it, had to check with the company I purchased the set through, and luckily its only been about 44 months.

Called NSI (the warranty company) up this past Wednesday, and they forwarded the repair request to a local shop. Apparently the local place has to get authorization from the warranty company before they can order the replacement parts.

Everywhere I've checked online lists a minimum 4-week back order for the digital board - so I have no idea how long it will take to to get this resolved.

Been tempted to just go get another TV, but somewhat limited finances at the moment and the current state of TV's in the 61"+ range has kept me patient. (Well, plus the fact that I found out if I unplug the TV and let it sit for 5-10 minutes, I can get about 2-3 hrs of TV viewing in before it flakes out again.)

Out of curiosity - have any of you guys that have had warranty work done deal with NSI (or Warrantech, guess they merged?) - wondering how easy/difficult they will make all this.

I tried searching for this topic but found nothing. Has anyone had experience with weird color issues when hooking a computer up to the VGA input?

It almost seems like it's forcing the computer to change to some sort of weird display driver.

When I hook the computer to a normal monitor, it looks great. When I unplug it and plug it into the HLR, it looks great until I reboot the computer. As soon as I reboot it, it looks all washed out and overly bright. No amount of messing with display settings will get it right.

Then, when I switch it back to the computer monitor (without turning off the computer) it looks horrible on that as well, until I reboot the computer, then it looks great again.

I can't figure out how to make it stop doing this.

thanks

My HL-R6167W's digital board started flaking out pretty heavily the past week (exactly as described above, with the picture freezing, going black, flashing with green stripes, even a couple of full screen green 'plaid-like' effects.)

I had forgot I had purchased a 5 year extended warranty for it, had to check with the company I purchased the set through, and luckily its only been about 44 months.

Called NSI (the warranty company) up this past Wednesday, and they forwarded the repair request to a local shop. Apparently the local place has to get authorization from the warranty company before they can order the replacement parts.

Everywhere I've checked online lists a minimum 4-week back order for the digital board - so I have no idea how long it will take to to get this resolved.

Been tempted to just go get another TV, but somewhat limited finances at the moment and the current state of TV's in the 61"+ range has kept me patient. (Well, plus the fact that I found out if I unplug the TV and let it sit for 5-10 minutes, I can get about 2-3 hrs of TV viewing in before it flakes out again.)

Out of curiosity - have any of you guys that have had warranty work done deal with NSI (or Warrantech, guess they merged?) - wondering how easy/difficult they will make all this.

Where did they send you to get the warrenty repairs done? Just curious(I am originally from Owego/Apalachin) I have a 5yr on my 5667 through PC Richard, which is a chain downstate, but I'm not sure who they do their service work through. I got another 9 months left or so, mine has held up pretty well so far knock on wood... I had to get the digital board swapped out when it was about 8 months old but that was under factory warrenty so a Samsung tech came to my apt to repair it.

If something major happened to mine I would probably take a few hundred bucks credit towards buying a replacement model Samsung HDTV:)

Where did they send you to get the warrenty repairs done? Just curious(I am originally from Owego/Apalachin) <snip>
If something major happened to mine I would probably take a few hundred bucks credit towards buying a replacement model Samsung HDTV:)

Hyles Audio in Johnson City, NY was the closest repair shop, next nearest location was in East Syracuse (didn't ask the name)

Hyles got the go ahead from the warranty company to proceed with the repair and ordered the part last week. Unfortunately I got a call from them today saying that Samsung had no replacement part in stock.

Need to call them back tomorrow and see if I can get any more information. I'm kinda curious what happens if a part can't be located, or not located within a 'reasonable' amount of time...

For now, I've found that pulling the plug, waiting a minute or two, and plugging it back in seems to reset the TV for an hour or so.

Part of me would love to upgrade to a 1080p TV - but the 63" plasmas and 65" LCDs are still pretty pricey.

Hoping someone can help.

HLR-5067w
I entered the SM to reset bulb life and make a gamma change. I've done this before and know not to play with things I don't understand...but in this instance I unwittingly changed something...in the CCA menu I think..a misstep navigating with the remote -argh!!!

I now cannot access the color tones in the user menu (warm1,normal,cool,etc) they are greyed out. I searched for hours here and found an old thread of the exact same problem..a fellow named Eliab seemd to be able to help..but the solution was not made public. (sorry can't post urls yet)

Does anyone now which settings control the color tones or how I might correct this???

Thanks in advance!

Model number HLR 5067 WX/XAA. Back of TV lists Chassis as L64B. Inside of TV shows Chassis L3. Samsung seems to verify my model uses Bulb BP96-00826A and Chassis L3.

I need to order a new color wheel and would love to order the correct part the first time (ie. BP96-01103A for L6 chassis or BP96-00674A for L3 chassis).

Why do they list chassis as L64B if the TV has an L3 chassis? After reading through lots of posts I think Samsung is out to deliberately confuse and confound us.

I've got the "check the fan no.2" error on my TV. I've read about it in a few places, and I've ordered the lamp cooling fan. Once this is replaced, how does the TV know that the fan is working properly? I assume something in the wiring tells the board when there is an issue?

Will this replacement definitely fix my issue?

Thanks much.

http://www.mikeyp.com/weblog/entertainment/samsunghlr4667wservicemenu.html

try this link

Hoping someone can help.

HLR-5067w
I entered the SM to reset bulb life and make a gamma change. I've done this before and know not to play with things I don't understand...but in this instance I unwittingly changed something...in the CCA menu I think..a misstep navigating with the remote -argh!!!

I now cannot access the color tones in the user menu (warm1,normal,cool,etc) they are greyed out. I searched for hours here and found an old thread of the exact same problem..a fellow named Eliab seemd to be able to help..but the solution was not made public. (sorry can't post urls yet)

Does anyone now which settings control the color tones or how I might correct this???

Thanks in advance!

http://www.mikeyp.com/weblog/entertainment/samsunghlr4667wservicemenu.html

try this link

My 5067 is shutting off on its own. No certain amount of time needs to pass. It is usually on over an hour before it turns itself off. There are no other symptoms at all. The only light that turns on is the same one that turns on when the TV is off. Colors are all fine.

Is this how the board goes? Will other problems start soon?

I hope someone knows. Thanks!

I am going through the same thing with my TV. I own a HL-R5067W and my TV went out just around the 4 year mark. My screen went plaid. My screen was full of 1in x 1in green squares. Half of the squares are striped and the other half are solid. I have sound, but no picture. My TV kept cycling off and on every 30 seconds. Anyway, the 2nd authorized service tech came to my house to replace the 1st set of analog and digital boards last night and he said the 1st tech put the wrong boards in my TV. I have been rescheduled for next Tuesday. Sigh! The tech said that the software that controls the memory has a glitch in the programming. The software is causing a buffer overflow in memory and the TV does not know what to do with the data stream. This glitch only affects the early digital boards, not the new replacement boards. Samsung has fixed the problem in the software for the new digital boards, so I will not have this issue again. No problem, Samsung is paying for my TV. Samsung extended my warranty for my TV and contacted a local service company. Yea!

Hi dewar.......
Thank you for the link...I'll do some comparisons and maybe find out why my color tone controls have greyed out...
thanks again.

My 5067 is shutting off on its own. No certain amount of time needs to pass. It is usually on over an hour before it turns itself off. There are no other symptoms at all. The only light that turns on is the same one that turns on when the TV is off. Colors are all fine.

Is this how the board goes? Will other problems start soon?

I hope someone knows. Thanks!

Mine did this within the first year. Since it was still under factory warrenty, Samsung tech came to my place and swapped the digital board(which included replacing the bulb as well). Never had a problem since. But it would turn off at random, no warning.

So I guess I am screwed. I had the TV on this morning and after 40 minutes it shut off. Turned it back on and 10 minutes later it turned off again. I am leaving it off for an hour or so and will see what happens later. Figures, the Phillies are in the World Series and my TV goes on the fritz.

I am not paying several hundred $ to fix what is now an antique. I was thinking of opening up the TV and cleaning off the boards. Maybe built up dust is causing something but that doesn't seem to be the case. This really sucks as I have taken such good care of my TV.

I have an HLR 4667. It is four years old. I recently had the light engine replaced by Samsung due to the infamous light tunnel collapse. Lately, I have been getting strange distortion in backgrounds of scenes in film based programs. Not at all in Live sports or commercials. This looks like Magenta circles on the walls and also colors faces a blotchy red in some scenes. Noitice it the most on close ups. Any Ideas? Easy fix? Please Help!

So I guess I am screwed. I had the TV on this morning and after 40 minutes it shut off. Turned it back on and 10 minutes later it turned off again. I am leaving it off for an hour or so and will see what happens later. Figures, the Phillies are in the World Series and my TV goes on the fritz.

I am not paying several hundred $ to fix what is now an antique. I was thinking of opening up the TV and cleaning off the boards. Maybe built up dust is causing something but that doesn't seem to be the case. This really sucks as I have taken such good care of my TV.

Figured I would update everyone. The TV kept turning itself off, all the time (this just started happening a few weeks ago). Today it was terrible so the wife said lets go get a new TV (I almost crapped my pants she wanted to). I ended up getting a 50" Panasonic Plasma (S1). Samsung Plasmas I was interested in before this happened, but no way now. Not even 4 years with the 5067.

I now will open up the old DLP and see what I can find in there. If I manage to fix it I will give it to my sister or sell for a few bills. I may still try to sell as it can be used for parts. The bulb was changed less than a year ago and should have a lot of life left. I changed the first bulb at 7500 hours and it was still going (saved as a backup).

I really hope this doesn't happen to the majority of owners. I loved my TV and really didn't want to upgrade this soon. The new TV is a huge jump in PQ so the money can be justified. Good luck to everyone. I'll update if I manage to fix the old HLR-5067W to let others know.

Figured I would update everyone. The TV kept turning itself off, all the time (this just started happening a few weeks ago). Today it was terrible so the wife said lets go get a new TV (I almost crapped my pants she wanted to). I ended up getting a 50" Panasonic Plasma (S1). Samsung Plasmas I was interested in before this happened, but no way now. Not even 4 years with the 5067.

I now will open up the old DLP and see what I can find in there. If I manage to fix it I will give it to my sister or sell for a few bills. I may still try to sell as it can be used for parts. The bulb was changed less than a year ago and should have a lot of life left. I changed the first bulb at 7500 hours and it was still going (saved as a backup).

I really hope this doesn't happen to the majority of owners. I loved my TV and really didn't want to upgrade this soon. The new TV is a huge jump in PQ so the money can be justified. Good luck to everyone. I'll update if I manage to fix the old HLR-5067W to let others know.
Sorry to hear about your situation, mbyrnes. Unfortunately, with today's technology, it can be a crap shoot. As of this coming Nov. 13th or so, my HL-R5067W will be four years old. Other than needing to adjust the Index Delay setting shortly after buying it, I have had no problems with the TV. ::knock on wood:: On the other hand, my 80GB PS3, which is about 14½ months old, died about two weeks ago.

HLR6167

Just replaced lamp and color wheel ONE month ago. Now you turn the tv on, and it sounds like something is spinning up really really fast, then it winds down, and this just repeats over and over again.

Last problem was the color wheel was making a grinding noise. There's no grinding this time. But something is spinning up really really fast, then spinning down, over and over again. I can't shut the tv off while this is happening.

Any ideas?

I'm so regretting buying samsung. For what I paid for this tv, don't know if I'll ever be able to buy samsung again.

I took the tv apart. The color wheel is in one piece,spins freely and is quiet. With the back open and holding that lamp door switch, the lamp does not even flicker on when I plug it in. Neither of the two visible fans are spinning up either. So the color wheel is definitely spinning up to some crazy speed then winding down again.

The last time my lamp blew, I don't remember it doing this so I don't think I have a blown lamp even though it's not even flickering on.

Thank god I didn't throw the old parts away. I tinkered with the old color wheel and based on different symptoms, I replaced my new color wheel's spin sensor with the spin sensor from the old one and the tv is working again!!!!! It spins up, is quiet, and short while later the lamp finally turns on. I've got picture!!

My Jan 2006-vintage HLR5067W has started displaying stripes on the screen from time to time (see attached) and it also exhibits a strange "freezing" phenomenon. Basically, the display frame rate slows down to something like stop-motion for 30 seconds to 1 minute, the frame freezes for 10 seconds or so, then the picture goes black for 10 seconds, and then the picture comes back.

Both things happen randomly, and they seem to be completely unrelated to the video source. Turning the TV on and off or switching sources doesn't make the screen artifacts go away, and the TV is completely unresponsive to remote commands while it's doing the "freeze" thing.

It's also failed to turn on a couple of times, which I fixed by unplugging the set and plugging it back in. This is pretty rare, though.

Is this a "replace the TV" repair, or is there a possibility that's easily fixed? I haven't changed any of the innards of the TV so far - not even the lamp.

Thanks!
Rob

My Jan 2006-vintage HLR5067W has started displaying stripes on the screen from time to time (see attached) and it also exhibits a strange "freezing" phenomenon. Basically, the display frame rate slows down to something like stop-motion for 30 seconds to 1 minute, the frame freezes for 10 seconds or so, then the picture goes black for 10 seconds, and then the picture comes back.

Both things happen randomly, and they seem to be completely unrelated to the video source. Turning the TV on and off or switching sources doesn't make the screen artifacts go away, and the TV is completely unresponsive to remote commands while it's doing the "freeze" thing.

It's also failed to turn on a couple of times, which I fixed by unplugging the set and plugging it back in. This is pretty rare, though.

Is this a "replace the TV" repair, or is there a possibility that's easily fixed? I haven't changed any of the innards of the TV so far - not even the lamp.

Thanks!
Rob

I've gotten the "freezes" you mention. I've seen it when watching via HDMI, or using the TV's tuner. Something chokes it up so the TV does some kind of "reboot", you'll hear a couple clicks in the back as well. I've never been able to fix it, nor would I come close to knowing how to replicate it to document for a warrently claim/repair(my 5yr warrenty on it expires next summer).