So please, everyone use my (and other's) settings as only a guideline since it defintiely depends on your room, ambiant light, etc.
But yes, as you correctly point out, your contrast/brightness setting depends alot on what your own particular environment is.
thanks for the suggestions. I will need to get a calibration disk of my own!

And I can actually see the dependence on environment - which is something a I meant to mention in my previous post. There's a big bank of windows to one side of the tv, and watching it during the day is a completely different experience than at night. During the day I really notice the sensitivity of the picture to the viewing angle. Given the settings that work well for the night, during the day if I stand up and there's a dark scene, I can barely see the image.

that's true... I think I DVE'd at around sunset, as I'm usually at work during the day. :D
I get the morning off tomorrow to go to a MSDN technet afternoon, so I'll see how the DVE settings hold up during the day.

If it doesn't, I guess I'll have to use Movie mode for daytime and Custom for nighttime viewing. :)

jensph, are you running all video and audio through a receiver first? For both cable box and dvd?
The DVD player is hooked up to the receiver using component video cables and digital optical audio, then from receiver to TV using component. No synchronization issues noted.

My cable box is hooked up directly to the TV using component video cables and stereo audio. I just bought a second optical audio cable today, so I'll try hooking the cable box up to my receiver tonight. I have high hopes that the season finale of 24's surround sound will be in synch with the video!

Again, I'd expect video lag to depend on the input format - if I input 720p why would there be any lag? So, I'm concerned that I haven't been able to switch my Scientific Atlanta 8300 box to output 720p - it outputs 1080i on all channels and content. Anyone else have this box?

I will be VERY interested in how your cable box performs running everything through the receiver. I have the same cable box. You should be able to set the cable box to passthru mode, the display format option should be in the setup menu (hit setup twice):


Display Format Summary.

* Fixed - Displays all content at whatever resolution you selected, based on what you selected in the wizard. You force the output to a single output and the box scales to that input. Easily changed in the settings menu of the box.
* Pass Through - Passes the input signal through to the output with no change, unless you disable certain resolutions. For example 480i in to 480i out, 480P in to 480P out, 1080i in to 1080i out, 720P in to 720P out. If you disable 720P, 720P in will go to 1080i out.
* Auto HDMI/DVI - If you are using the HDMI port, you will see this option instead of the Pass Through option. Resolution is automatically formatted to the scan rate supported by the TV.
* UpConvert 1 - All 480i and 480P signals get upconverted to 480P. All 720P and 1080i signals get upconverted to 1080i.
* UpConvert 2 - All 480i and 480P signals get upconverted to 480P. All 720P and 1080i signals get converted to 720P.

Also check out http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=421666 to get to the advanced setup to select what resolutions you want to use. I'm planning on just letting all resolutions through the box. I don't want the cable box to convert anything. I'd rather my tv do it after the gets the signal from my receiver.

RE: TV Guide service

I've had my HLR4667 up and running about four days. Two days ago I did the setup program on the TV Guide service. I've yet to see any listings. The manual says there is a 24 hour delay for the first set of listings and as long as seven days for all listings. That said, after 48 hours I should be seeing something, right?

What are others experiencing with the TV Guide set-up? I'm using a cablecard and connected to Cablevision NY. thanks.

Got some bad news today for new Samsung owners who also subscribe to Cablevision New York. If you have tried to use the TV Guide feature and find that it won't populate with listings, there is a reason. It seems that Cablevision made some technical change to the station that carries the TV guide signal (channel 13) so it no longer works. As a result, our new TVs won't receive the TV Guide data overnight or ever until Gemstar (owns TV Guide) and Cablevision can agree on a solution. I spoke with Samsung level 2 support today. I also had Samsung warranty service at the house to check out the television. hardware is just fine. Samsung is having Gemstar tech support contact me directly with addt details. This really sucks. It seems the cable operators are working overtime to keep new technology out of their markets. don't even get me started about the cablecard installation. (installer kept putting the card in upside down -- he admitted that he had no clue on how to install a cablecard)

what are other New York owners in the cablevision service area experiencing with TV Guide? I understand the only workaround for now is to install an OTA antenna to grab the TVG signal that way.

I will be VERY interested in how your cable box performs running everything through the receiver. I have the same cable box.
I hooked up my STB (SA8300) using digital audio to my receiver, in addition to stereo audio connected directly to the TV. Component video is connected directly to the TV. So, was there video lag? Nothing significant. I listed to the audio from the TV and the receiver at the same time, and heard a slight echo - with the receiver slightly ahead. This made me a bit worried, but I then turned off the TV audio and listened only to the receiver's output. I didn't notice that lips were out of synch. I tried this on the STB's different output formats 1080i, 720p, 480p, and 480i - and everything sounded fine. I'm sticking to my receiver's output.

Oh, and thanks for the SA8300 forum link - I did the set-up to enable all formats. I was really surprised to see the quality of the 480i output. I previously wrote that I was impressed with the SD quality I was seeing, but after switching to the true 480i format the quality appeared to degrade. Letting the SA8300 de-interlace to 480p appears to help - at least for the one channel I was testing, perhaps I should look some more!

what are other New York owners in the cablevision service area experiencing with TV Guide?
I have Cablevision and have not been able to get the TV Guide to work... Thanks for the explanation.

I am incidentally also disappointed with the number of HD channels Cablevision offers.

How much are the bulbs for the new HLR Samsung DLP TV's and where do you buy them from?I'm worried about this TV only lasting a year and then having to replace the bulb.

After living with an HLR4667 and the Motorola 6412 for a couple of weeks, I had been very unhappy with the SD picture quality. I stumbled across a statement in another thread that the 4:3 override setting on the 6412 should be set to 'off' when connected to Samsung televisions. I had set it to 480p, assuming that would provide the best picture. When I set it to 'off' the picture quality on the digital part of the cable improved dramatically! You lose the ability to manipulate the format (zoom, pan etc), but the improvement is worth it. I still use the TV tuner for analog channels, but HBO, Starz and OnDemand movies are almost on a par with HD channels now.

I have Cablevision and have not been able to get the TV Guide to work... Thanks for the explanation.

I am incidentally also disappointed with the number of HD channels Cablevision offers.


The HD offerings on Cablevision are pretty anemic. I don't think we'll see the cable industry wake from its coma until we have more and better choices as consumers. Something to watch are the telcos. They are moving quickly to build infrastructure to sell television programming, etc. Verizon could be a big wake-up call someday but this too is not necessarily a panacea. (e.g. DSL service still hasn't been rolled out to my area. If I want a high speed connection, cable is my only choice other than sat. )

SaintsMan,
I too, would like to know how much Samsung DLP TV bulbs cost and where to buy them for the best price. Especially for the HL-R5067W. Thanks in advance, WolfpackRon.

Try www.samsungparts.com. They list the lamp assembly for $199.99.

Taking a que from others, I called the local Eagle warehouse, TV arrived Friday, They deliver to my area on tuesdays and thursdays, so should have it tomoorow between 12 and 5.

She Said "It was here friday, no one called you to schedule?"

Someone might have called today, But I am glad i checked it out.

Now I Need to get the stand this afternoon!

Did they deliver the TV yet? Mine just arrived locally and I can either have them deliver it Thursday (today is Tuesday) or I can pick it up.. Do you know how big the box is? I've got an s10 pickup and it's raining outside.....

Also if they deliver it then I have to take 4 hrs off from work to sit at home and wait...

I tried to PM you to not piss off the thread guardians- but since we both paid for the sets we are owners :)

The set is due sometine today ( Window was 12-4) I am lucky in that I can work from home.

I just bought and set up the stand yesterday- the Bell'o Glass and Cherrywood- Looks good + very high WAF (Wife approval factor)

I will go today to swap out the cable box, I am not sure of the model number but it is a motorola - it has connections and a card slot in front. (Channel offering here is very weak for HD)

( At least I didn't mention lip sync issues!)

I tried to PM you to not piss off the thread guardians- but since we both paid for the sets we are owners :) :) :p

well keep us informed!!! I might just go to eaglegl at 4pm today with some tarp and tie downs. i dont want to wait !

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=14647&size=big&sort=1&cat=503

Attached is a picture of the 5067 on the new TR46x3 stand

Setup: Comcast HD PVR via component. DVD via component
Tivi via composite...(just temp until I watch all taped shows, then will be removed)

Stand comments: The stand is wll made and matches great. However, the Tv is in no way attached to the stand and I get the feeling my 4 year olds could easily knowk it over. I have decided to put wire from the back crewes of the TV to the stand to form a tether/anchor. No issue with the TV going back as the stand has extra room

MY motorola DVR comes right to the edge of the stand with room in the back for the turn required by the stiff component wires

The HD pictures are great. I have seen very little if any differerence between the Cable box signal and the direct signal.

Qestions that i need ansered and will seach this forum for later: best way to hook up the cable box as it has numerous possible connections. based on the given connection, I need the best setup to the cablebox setup menu

TV comments:

TV Guide is still blank and will probably be useless for me. Sound is good

Richost:
Are the shelves on the TR46X3 wide enough to hold two standard A/V units (17") side-by-side? I have 4 (2 satellite STBs, 1 HT control center and 1 VCR).
Thanks,
Carl

Maybe I am missing something here, but the only way to get a DD 5.1 signal into the HLRxx67 series is through the HDMI port. The only other audio in is L/R audio (no way to make this into DD 5.1). Once you get your audio in through the HDMI port you then have the option of what format you want it to be output in through the optical out port (PCM or Dolby). Once you get DD 5.1 into the set, it would appear that the set will pass it out.

Interesting question. It is my understanding that the audio on an HDMI connector is just L/R (2.0). DD 5.1 is available on the TV's optical port only when the TV is receiving a 5.1 signal via its OTA tuner. Cable, satellite and DVD boxes have optical outputs that can be connected directly to your HT audio system. The TV's audio system and speakers would normally not be used to augment 5.1 from these sources.

Try www.samsungparts.com. They list the lamp assembly for $199.99.

Thanks.

I went to the site and found the 42" Samsung "HLR4266W" lamp for $135.So, I would have to buy that and then pay them $199 to put it in?Maybe I could do that myself?

Oh, and will I always be able to get a lamp... I mean, do they ever stop selling them?I don't want to have the TV for a few years and they stop selling it.

... So, I would have to buy that and then pay them $199 to put it in?Maybe I could do that myself?

The "lamps" are user replaceable items.

BTW, a few days ago there was a discussion and links in a thread about warranties and lamp coverage. I actual spent some time reading through a few. An interesting point is that some of the warranties distinguished between the "lamp" and the "lamp assembly." FWIW.

couldn't wait any longer and picked up my HLR 5067 from EGL... had to run back to work but I opened it quickly and no visiable problems... set looks hot!

I really need to buy one of these tvs NOW! I'm set on the 5067 and I dont need a 1080p set. My only problem is getting a stand that can hold two small 3" wide speakers on the side and also my huge receiver below (yahama 2400). Any suggestions?

Costco Home (in Tempe, AZ at least) had 10+ HLR 61" floating screen tvs. Seemed like a good price and its from Costco so their return policy applies.

I picked one up on Saturday and like it a lot.. but mysteriously I've gotten headaches twice watching it. Not looking for or seeing RBE but this does concern me a bit.

Received my 6167 last Friday. There are smudges on the screen. I thought this problem was fixed in HLR series. I have called in Samsung and they will be here tomorrow. TVA told me they will replace the screen. But Samsung rep was saying that he needs to check if the screen is available.

Finally received my set this afternoon. Worked fine out of the box. Going from a 27" to this 50" is amazing.

I saw someplace that you could change the contrast, brightness, color, etc. I have been unable to find out how to do this - help!

I used S-video (Monster cable) and red white for audio. picture is fine but not sure if this is the best set up or not. Just using my TIVO at this point, will buy DVD Player later. Any suggestions on a good DVD Player to complement this unit?

Will probably go to HD when more programming is in HD - I have DIRECTV now and when the HD TIVO box comes down in price.

Took delivery of my 5067w (From the Am**** deal) Today.

No issues with delivery ( Except the box was dirty).

Out of box, pretty good

I think that after hours of store evaluation I saw me first rainbows. It was during a calibration using the THX optimzer section of THE INCREDIBLES- on the first test- White balance. Some of the white squares had a Moire type pattern that rotated left to right (Orange-ish). I knew I wouldn't see rainbows until I bought it.

Anyway- by adjusting contrat and brightness, the phenom was serious deminished. I have not seen anything like it during actual play back.

There is a lip sync issue when I run the Cable audio out through my Home reciever (RCA PLUGS) I will tey later with optical or coax.

For an awsome DEMO disc, I reccomend the JAMES TAYLOR live at the Beacon Theater- Super Crisp, and with 5.1 sound, an excellent disc to show the clarity on something not animated.

I will play around some more with the audio connections, and report back.

PS- As I mentioned previously, I bought the bell'o cherrywood and glass stand, ther is about 2 inches on each side and room for two standard comp side by side on each of the two shelves.

So far very happy with the set!

Picked it up at EGL and had no problems with that. Box was fine inside and out.

Much lighter then my 27" CRT that it replaces. I'll try to get some better photos up. This TV is awesome! Looks hot on my cheapie TV stand from Walmart. 50" fits well even in a smaller living room.

http://s92687205.onlinehome.us/img/livingroomTV.jpg

I noticed rainbows when looking at the TV then turning my head away real fast. Not an issue when watching it. Sorta like a "what was that" when you turn your head away. It doesnt bother me at all.

I had a HELL of a time getting my TWC set top box working but I think I got it now through component connections. I only get 8 HD channels but boy are they nice. Yankees look good on HDTV.

I do have a audio lag issue when connected to my Onkyo receiver. If I have the audio coming out of the TV and the receiver at the same time there is a delay between the two. It is only connected through RCA. What should I try next? Optical or coax? Will this solve my problem?

Anyway, LOVE the TV. Thanks for the info on the deal and everyone's help!!

Finally pulled the trigger and got an awesome deal at BB, tv+stand+warranty.
Will be getting it this Friday. I hope to share some photos and user experiences.
Looks like some of you may have already tried the DVE and/or AVIA disks. Should we start comparing settings ?
Has anyone needed to go into the service menu ?

thanks

how do you get into service menu?

I just had a 6167 delivered today. Great picture, brilliant colors.

I am getting freeze frames on a couple of the HD channels at a 10 to 15 second rate. This is not occurring on my other HD sets, only the Samsung. Although I did not get a cable card yet, I am picking up most of the local HD channels in the 80 to 100 range.

Is anyone else experiencing this?

There is a lip sync issue when I run the Cable audio out through my Home reciever (RCA PLUGS) I will tey later with optical or coax.


I have optical out from the set top box and the TV; which do i connect to the receiver? (i just ordered the cable otherwise i'd just try it)

I picked one up an HL-R5067W at Rest Ruy yesterday, on sale (sale goes all week) and here are a few comments.

PQ- I'm going from a 36" 510 Sony WEGA, to this...so the extra screen acreage is great. The 16:9 squeeze on the Sony just wasn't doing HD enough justice. I sacrificed HD "wow" for non-stretched 4:3 viewing and I was tired of that. Picture quality is, for the most part, really good. I'm no A/VA expert, I don't own a calibration disc or anything like that, so keep that in mind for the next few comments.

-First...blacks are black, sure. But...it's all black. No detail. If I bump the brightness up enough to see detail in the blacks, everything else looks washed out. After reading thru this marathon thread and seeing some recommended settings, I used them without much difference. Maybe it's just me, maybe it's just set up incorrectly.

-Second...rainbows. Yes, I see them. I see them all the time. I have a hard time understanding how a portion of the population does *not* see them. It's noticeable anytime your eyes go to, or away from the screen when there is brighter white areas on the screen. I go back and forth quite a bit because I surf the web and watch TV at the same time. However, when I'm concentrating on what's on TV, I don't see rainbows nearly as much. So now that I know I see them, it doesn't really bother me. It's a bit distracting just because I'm trying to figure out what circumstances make me see them, but I'll forget about that in time and ignore it.

-Third...whites are white. Too white. So on the one hand, black is murky. On the other hand, whites are so white that I have trouble seeing some objects in a sea of white. For example, the show 'Penn & Teller: Bullshit!' usually has them doing dialogue in front of a mostly white background. They were wearing "lightning rod hats" and I could hardly see the darker-colored lightning rod in front of the white background. If I turned down the brightness, everything else was too dark.

-Audio...here's where things get a bit more serious. Let me explain my setup.

Video: HDTIVO>>display via HDMI.
Audio: HDTIVO>>Onkyo receiver via optical.

When I turn the TV's onboard speakers on, there is an echo between the TV sound and my receiver's sound. It's hard to tell which is behind the other. I'm fairly sure the Tv sound output is the one behind. This doesn't really concern me because I don't use the TV's speakers, but I decided to do some experimenting just for you folks. So, I change the audio setup to:

HDTIVO>>TV via HDMI>>Onkyo receiver via optical.

This syncs the onboard speakers with my receiver's speakers, but it just made them more or less equally out of sync with the video. Audio was less out of sync running straight to the receiver and bypassing the TV. Here's where it gets disturbing. When I run the audio thru the TV in the way I just described, I get NO sound from neither the TV's onboard speakers nor the receiver's speakers if I'm on a channel that is outputting digital sound. If I go to an analog station, sound comes back. The TV's manual does ask that you run component cables from the HDMI source to a pair of inputs on the TV (don't ask me why, I don't know). I hooked those up with no change. Also, the manual states that I should be able to go to the audio section and select Dolby Digital or PCM, but that option is grayed out under both setups. I switched the cables with the power on for everything. Maybe I should have turned everything off, then back on. So...unless I'm doing something wrong this could potentially be a serious problem. However, I see no reason not to use the first setup I described, and it works fine...albeit a little our of sync.

-Overall, I'd say I'm very happy. The unit isn't without it's flaws and shortcomings, but I'm still riveted to HD material...and it keeps me entertained. Isn't that what this is all about?

EDIT...I just tested and even with my standard setup, the TV's onboard speakers put out NO sound on a digital channel. Weird.

Joe Schmoe... You are a LOT more forgiving than I am. I'd be screaming bloody murder!

Maybe I am missing something here, but the only way to get a DD 5.1 signal into the HLRxx67 series is through the HDMI port. The only other audio in is L/R audio (no way to make this into DD 5.1). Once you get your audio in through the HDMI port you then have the option of what format you want it to be output in through the optical out port (PCM or Dolby). Once you get DD 5.1 into the set, it would appear that the set will pass it out.
I was playing around with my HLR4667W setup last night. I believe you cannot get DD 5.1 into the set via HDMI. I have a Samsung HD-850 dvd player and Directv H10 satellite receiver, both with HDMI output. The tv would not play audio when the source (dvd plyr, stb) was set to DD and the content (5.1 dvd, 5.1 broadcast) was 5.1. Only by switching the source to PCM resulted in audio on all channels, thus "down-converting" the digital feed from 5.1.

Others on this board have commented that the set would not pass DD 5.1 via the optical out. The only other input that would have the capability of delivering DD 5.1 to the set is the cable antenna in. Perhaps it is not the set, rather the HDMI technology itself that cannot pass DD 5.1. Since I have satellite I cannot personally test whether or not a direct digital cable feed (w/out stb) would in fact bring DD 5.1 into the set, and have the set pass the audio feed as DD 5.1.

Comments anyone?

Others on this board have commented that the set would not pass DD 5.1 via the optical out. The only other input that would have the capability of delivering DD 5.1 to the set is the cable antenna in. Perhaps it is not the set, rather the HDMI technology itself that cannot pass DD 5.1. Since I have satellite I cannot personally test whether or not a direct digital cable feed (w/out stb) would in fact bring DD 5.1 into the set, and have the set pass the audio feed as DD 5.1.


There is an article somewhere that says just that. The current implementation of HDMI doesn't handle multichannel sound. It supports it in theory but there doesn't seem to be any equipment on the market that actually does it. Its either the sending chip on your source that isn't sending it or the tv that isn't accepting it. Both have to work or else it doesn't work at all. For me HDMI is just a bad marketing buzzword and I'm not taking it seriously. I'm going to use all component connections.

I was playing around with my HLR4667W setup last night. I believe you cannot get DD 5.1 into the set via HDMI. I have a Samsung HD-850 dvd player and Directv H10 satellite receiver, both with HDMI output. The tv would not play audio when the source (dvd plyr, stb) was set to DD and the content (5.1 dvd, 5.1 broadcast) was 5.1. Only by switching the source to PCM resulted in audio on all channels, thus "down-converting" the digital feed from 5.1.

Others on this board have commented that the set would not pass DD 5.1 via the optical out. The only other input that would have the capability of delivering DD 5.1 to the set is the cable antenna in. Perhaps it is not the set, rather the HDMI technology itself that cannot pass DD 5.1. Since I have satellite I cannot personally test whether or not a direct digital cable feed (w/out stb) would in fact bring DD 5.1 into the set, and have the set pass the audio feed as DD 5.1.

Comments anyone?

HDMI is capable of passing 5.1 audio but only if the TV is capable of processing the Dolby Digital signal. TV manufactures that have virtual surround built into the TV should be able to pass a 5.1 audio signal.
Thank you for confirming, that regardless of the source, the HDMI input on the TV can not accept a 5.1 audio signal.
Do you see any lip sink problems if you bypass the TV with the audio signal going directly to your surround sound processor?

HDMI is capable of passing 5.1 audio but only if the TV is capable of processing the Dolby Digital signal. TV manufactures that have virtual surround built into the TV should be able to pass a 5.1 audio signal.
Thank you for confirming, that regardless of the source, the HDMI input on the TV can not accept a 5.1 audio signal.
Do you see any lip sink problems if you bypass the TV with the audio signal going directly to your surround sound processor?

Its not just the tv being able to process it, the source also has to send it. Just because HDMI the standard can carry the signal doesn't mean the sending sources are actually passing that signal. For all we know there are no sources currently available that actually pass 5.1 audio over the hdmi cable.

My hlr5067w is on the way and i want to make sure i get the right cables for when it arrives. Is the VGA connector on the back a male (15 little pins poking out) or female (15 little holes)?

Thanks!

My hlr5067w is on the way and i want to make sure i get the right cables for when it arrives. Is the VGA connector on the back a male (15 little pins poking out) or female (15 little holes)?

Thanks!

holes; you'll need a male-male VGA connector (just ordered one myself from ramelectronics

Greetings Joe Schmoe,
Although I have a newly acquired Samsung 5674, I had similar feelings regarding initial picture quality once I got the unit set up.
I'd suggest you get a copy of Digital Video Essentials or Avia (I use DVE) and follow the instructions on video set up.
Then, you might want to try this "Steaming Rat" thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=261309
I had good results using this these two methods. I will have my unit professionally calibrated at the end of June as well.
b.

Its not just the tv being able to process it, the source also has to send it. Just because HDMI the standard can carry the signal doesn't mean the sending sources are actually passing that signal. For all we know there are no sources currently available that actually pass 5.1 audio over the hdmi cable.

Mike,
The DVR that mshap is using (SFA 8300) to feed the HDMI signal clearly states in their getting started manual that the DVR will pass 5.1 audio but only if the TV has the ability to process a Dolby Digital signal.
When I spoke to a second level technical support person at Samsung, he stated that the HDMI circuit on the HLR67s would not pass a 5.1 signal. He also stated that he didn't think any other manufactures could either. Since doing a little more research I'm farily certain other mannufactures like Toshiba have gotten arround this by installing virtual surround sound, which has to have the circuitry to decode a Dolby Digital signal.

All A* buyers, have you been pleased with their service (delivery, customer service, etc)? They have put up their 5667 and it is much less than other vendors to include the powerbuy. I have to pay shipping now (those of you who didn't...good on ya!) but it is still considerably cheaper. Looking to pull the trigger today or tomorrow based on this new info. I had debated waiting for the PB info on the 68 series, but Kirk hasn't posted those like he said he would. Also, should I put AVIA or DVE in my basket? One last thing, I am considering the Harmony 688 remote. I will be using it with E* DVR and a Harmon Karden system. Thanks for the help in advance.

For me HDMI is just a bad marketing buzzword and I'm not taking it seriously. I'm going to use all component connections.The only reason HDMI exists is to make the MPAA members happy by encrypting the link between the signal source and the display. It does absolutely nothing for consumers and in fact, makes things more difficult.

quick question: If you use the cable card on these tvs, how do you get surround sound from the digital cable? Is there an optical out port on the card that I can send to my receiver or what?

The DVR that mshap is using (SFA 8300) to feed the HDMI signal clearly states in their getting started manual that the DVR will pass 5.1 audio but only if the TV has the ability to process a Dolby Digital signal.
When I spoke to a second level technical support person at Samsung, he stated that the HDMI circuit on the HLR67s would not pass a 5.1 signal. He also stated that he didn't think any other manufactures could either. Since doing a little more research I'm farily certain other mannufactures like Toshiba have gotten arround this by installing virtual surround sound, which has to have the circuitry to decode a Dolby Digital signal.

To me that doesn't make sense though. The tv doesn't have to decode anything. It only has to pass on the digital signal to the optical out. It can do that by pulling the audio signal apart from the video signal in the HDMI feed. Which it has to do anyways. It is decoding something. Dolby Digital does not mean 5.1, it can also mean 2.0 or any other variation. It could be sending a dolby digital 2.0 signal to the tv because the source doesn't support sending a dolby digital 5.1 signal over hdmi. It would only need to decode it if it were to play the sound through the onboard speakers. I don't think its a decode dolby digital thing. I think its an HDMI thing. I believe the tv won't pass on a 5.1 DD signal and won't accept a 5.1 DD signal. But I also believe that the sat and cable boxes out today don't pass on a 5.1 DD signal but only pass a 2.0 DD signal over HDMI because of their HDMI implementation.

There are smudges on the screen.
Stupid newbie question...what are smudges? Can someone please describe what they are and what they look like? How would I know if I have smudges? Odds are, if I have to ask I probably don't have them...I hope.

Any recommendations out there for a DVD Player to go with the HLR5057? I don't have HD yet but plan to get it in a year or so.

To me that doesn't make sense though. The tv doesn't have to decode anything. It only has to pass on the digital signal to the optical out. It can do that by pulling the audio signal apart from the video signal in the HDMI feed. Which it has to do anyways. It is decoding something. Dolby Digital does not mean 5.1, it can also mean 2.0 or any other variation. It could be sending a dolby digital 2.0 signal to the tv because the source doesn't support sending a dolby digital 5.1 signal over hdmi. It would only need to decode it if it were to play the sound through the onboard speakers. I don't think its a decode dolby digital thing. I think its an HDMI thing. I believe the tv won't pass on a 5.1 DD signal and won't accept a 5.1 DD signal. But I also believe that the sat and cable boxes out today don't pass on a 5.1 DD signal but only pass a 2.0 DD signal over HDMI because of their HDMI implementation.

Mike,
Toshiba clearly states that their 62HMX94 passes Dolby Digital 5.1 through their audio out. Look in both the audio out and the HDMI areas of this web page. http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/product.asp?model=62HM94
I think that Samsung has clearly fallen short on this one. I only hope it's corrected in the 68's.

Finally got my 5667 delivered yesterday, WOW! amazing HD picture, really breathtaking... The SD channels are about what I expected which is totally acceptable. Still in the tweaking of menus faze trying to get that perfect picture setup for the Directv HD Tivo and my Harmon Kardon DVD.

Overall extremely happy with the TV it really is amazing how big the 56" TV is compared to my Sony 36"

Do you see any lip sink problems if you bypass the TV with the audio signal going directly to your surround sound processor?
Yes and no.

If I run the source's component video and optical audio into my receiver and then to the tv's component input, I do not see any lag. If I run the source video into the tv via HDMI and the source optical audio to the receiver, then the video is a bit behind the audio, less than 1/2 a second behind but definitely noticable.

I have not tried feeding HDMI into the tv and then looping the tv's audio optical out into the receiver. Not that this would make any difference since if I use the surround system I'd want 5.1, not merely stereo. If I don't want to use the surround system I'm content with only the tv's speakers via HDMI.

I have not tried feeding HDMI into the tv and then looping the tv's audio optical out into the receiver. I think you will find this does not work. IIRC, one of the demands that the content providers made was that digital inputs to the display device could not be propogated beyond that device. The TVI out video & audio will only work with non-HDMI sources.

Toshiba clearly states that their 62HMX94 passes Dolby Digital 5.1 through their audio out. Look in both the audio out and the HDMI areas of this web page. http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televis...sp?model=62HM94

Thats toshiba. It doesn't mean it has anything to do with internal virtual speakers or anything like that. And it doesn't mean that the cable boxes and sat boxes out today even pass a 5.1 signal from their implementation of hdmi. It doesn't say that it passes 5.1 through hdmi. All it says is multichannel sound. 2.0 is multichannel sound as well as 5.1. It does say that

Delivers Dolby Digital® signature 5.1 track digital audio through a simple, one-cable connection to any Dolby Digital receiver. On many models this can also be accessed via a fiber optic TosLink. All Toshiba DVD-Audio models offer onboard Dolby Digital® decoding through six individual analog outputs for use with Dolby Digital® Ready receivers.

Which still doesn't mean multichannel sound over and HDMI connection. It just means you can route 5.1 DD signal through the tv.

I think that Samsung has clearly fallen short on this one. I only hope it's corrected in the 68's.

I agree with that. Which is why I won't be routing anything through the tv until the final component connection from receiver to the tv. When I get mine it will be a monitor only.

Yes and no.

If I run the source's component video and optical audio into my receiver and then to the tv's component input, I do not see any lag. If I run the source video into the tv via HDMI and the source optical audio to the receiver, then the video is a bit behind the audio, less than 1/2 a second behind but definitely noticable.


Have you tried hooking up the source to the component input on your TV directly (as opposed to HDMI)? Does that behave any differently from running it through the receiver?

Although the question has already been asked in this thread - I couldn't find any answers. Do these sets support discrete remote control codes for power on/off, inputs, etc?

Thanks!

Have you tried hooking up the source to the component input on your TV directly (as opposed to HDMI)? Does that behave any differently from running it through the receiver?
No, only fed component into the receiver first. I'm not sure if feeding the tv directly would result in any perceivable change.

I have relegated the HDMI feed for those times I want to watch tv without the surround system on, meaning audio through the tv speakers. Doing so lets the wife/kids play with only some of my toys, not all of them!!

Have you tried hooking up the source to the component input on your TV directly (as opposed to HDMI)? Does that behave any differently from running it through the receiver?
As I posted above, this is what I do - I connect from the STB directly to the TV using component video - and from the STB directly to the receiver using optical audio. The lip-synch issue is minimal. If I compare audio hooked up directly from the STB to the TV with the receiver's audio, I do hear a slight echo, so this shows that there is a bit of video lag when using the receiver's audio - but it's not enough to really notice.

Do you need a set to box with the 6167 to get HD content?

Do you need a set to box with the 6167 to get HD content?
No - you can plug your cable directly into the TV to get some unscrambled HD channels - the HD channels offered by the networks will be unscrambled. I was watching these before I had the chance to upgrade to an HD-DVR cable box (though it took me a while to find the right channels!). Of course, the network channels are usually not showing HD content on their HD channels, so it is nice to have some additional channels when you crave HD...

The other option is to use an antenna to get those same unscrambled network HD channels.

Of course, the network channels are usually not showing HD content on their HD channels... Isn't that the truth? The local ABC affiliate broadcasts SD during most of the day and on the local newscasts. They only go HD for the ABC network feed at night. The annoying thing is that they lock the aspect ratio when they broadcast in SD so you can't stretch it. You get to look at grey bars of either side of the screen.

Although the question has already been asked in this thread - I couldn't find any answers. Do these sets support discrete remote control codes for power on/off, inputs, etc?

Thanks!

Yes, they should. I say that based on the setup that's offered for my Harmony 680 remote control through the harmony website, where they offer discrete (and toggle) commands for the individual video inputs, power, etc. In fact, the Harmony site has 87 possible button commands that can be programmed into the remote for the HLR5067w.

I just got my HLR5067W and love it. Got mine at Sears and their 48" stand. Good combo. First time with HDTV. Using Dishnetwork. Can you plug the cable directly into the set without going thru the Dish box like you can with cable?

In fact the Spec Sheet on the Samsung site lists "yes" for Descrete Code for all of the HLRxx67s including the 66 model.

I just got my HLR5067W and love it. Got mine at Sears and their 48" stand. Good combo. First time with HDTV. Using Dishnetwork. Can you plug the cable directly into the set without going thru the Dish box like you can with cable?

satellite reception requires the satellite receiver, so with Dishnetwork, you'll still need your 811 or whathaveyou.

if you had cable, you can connect that to Air1

for direct OTA reception, you can connect a regular aerial antenna to Air2

I currently have my dn811 connected to Component1 via my receiver (yam5790)

satellite reception requires the satellite receiver, so with Dishnetwork, you'll still need your 811 or whathaveyou.

if you had cable, you can connect that to Air1

for direct OTA reception, you can connect a regular aerial antenna to Air2

I currently have my dn811 connected to Component1 via my receiver (yam5790)

thanks...I believe my box is a 500 series. I need to upgrade to an HD receiver or I may change to Cox cable. Trying to see who offers the most HD channels.

(Before we totally hijack the thread)
FWIW, I was somewhat disappointed with Cox cable in California. But that was before I got the TV, so the disappointment was mainly on price and SD content.

I switched to Dishnetwork for their cheaper DVR offerings, free HD for 6 months, and free equipment. :D (I didn't pony up the $250-odd for their HD-DVR though, which may or maynot be a problem in the near future)

dishnetwork Pros: if you have good off air reception, I'd stick with Dish network and, since you're in Florida, you might be able to get 61.5 reception and subscribe to Voom content.

dishnetwork Cons: if you don't have good off air reception like me, you may not get all the big broadcasters in HD (I'm missing NBC and UPN, for instance) until Dish gets their act together.

I'm going to stick with dishnetwork for now because I'm hoping they'll get the HD rights to NBC etc. soon...

Just received my 6167 today. Got it all set up, turned on the power and waited, and waited, and waited, and got a sinking feeling in my gut, but still waited....anyway, you get the picture.

The lamp lights up, the chimes play when I start it, so it has power. However, when I push the source, menu (or any) buttons on the side (not even using the remote) I get nothing. Also, when I push a button on the remote, any button, the green 'Timer' word flashes on the front and nothing happens.

Am I DOA? Searched this thread and didn't find anything. Anyone seen the problem?

Just received my 6167 today. Got it all set up, turned on the power and waited, and waited, and waited, and got a sinking feeling in my gut, but still waited....anyway, you get the picture.

The lamp lights up, the chimes play when I start it, so it has power. However, when I push the source, menu (or any) buttons on the side (not even using the remote) I get nothing. Also, when I push a button on the remote, any button, the green 'Timer' word flashes on the front and nothing happens.

Am I DOA? Searched this thread and didn't find anything. Anyone seen the problem?
Bummer. That sounds slightly worse than the white stripey line problem a couple of people (including myself) had on delivery. Correct powerup behavior defaults to going to the TVGuide setup screen, so you shouldn't have to press the source button.

You probably call your dealer first (was it TVA?) and ask them to help.

Alternatively...

First step would be to see if you see the lamp lighting up through the lamp vent in the rear. If that isn't happening, you can follow the lamp replacement procedure to make sure your lamp is fully installed.

If that doesn't work and depending on how much electronics experience you have, you might consider unscrewing the service panel in the back and make sure all the cables/cards are seated properly.

Then call Samsung for a warranty call.

Isn't that the truth? The local ABC affiliate broadcasts SD during most of the day and on the local newscasts. They only go HD for the ABC network feed at night. The annoying thing is that they lock the aspect ratio when they broadcast in SD so you can't stretch it. You get to look at grey bars of either side of the screen.

Actually, the station is not "locking" anything. What they are doing is upconverting SD material, and sending it out in a HD bitstream. Even with these SD shows, your TV will indicate that it is receiving 720p or 1080i.

The problem is, these TVs will not scale a digital bitstream, only analogue ones.

This is a common problem. Very few current HDTVs will allowing scaling/zooming of a digital signal.

John

Actually, the station is not "locking" anything. What they are doing is upconverting SD material, and sending it out in a HD bitstream. Even with these SD shows, your TV will indicate that it is receiving 720p or 1080i. The problem is, these TVs will not scale a digital bitstream, only analogue ones. This is a common problem. Very few current HDTVs will allowing scaling/zooming of a digital signal. Learn something new every day! Thank you...

Just received my 6167 today. Got it all set up, turned on the power and waited, and waited, and waited, and got a sinking feeling in my gut, but still waited....anyway, you get the picture.

The lamp lights up, the chimes play when I start it, so it has power. However, when I push the source, menu (or any) buttons on the side (not even using the remote) I get nothing. Also, when I push a button on the remote, any button, the green 'Timer' word flashes on the front and nothing happens.

Am I DOA? Searched this thread and didn't find anything. Anyone seen the problem?

Time to call Samsung tech support!!! Good luck.

Mike,
Toshiba clearly states that their 62HMX94 passes Dolby Digital 5.1 through their audio out. Look in both the audio out and the HDMI areas of this web page. http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/televisions/product.asp?model=62HM94
I think that Samsung has clearly fallen short on this one. I only hope it's corrected in the 68's.

If you look in the manual it lists the HDMI input with only 2 channel PCM audio. It also says the Virtual Surround is only used with the digital antenna/cable and the IEEE-1394 connection.

Just received my 6167 today. Got it all set up, turned on the power and waited, and waited, and waited, and got a sinking feeling in my gut, but still waited....anyway, you get the picture.

The lamp lights up, the chimes play when I start it, so it has power. However, when I push the source, menu (or any) buttons on the side (not even using the remote) I get nothing. Also, when I push a button on the remote, any button, the green 'Timer' word flashes on the front and nothing happens.

Am I DOA? Searched this thread and didn't find anything. Anyone seen the problem?


My 5067 took longer first time to turn on; maybe 20-30 seconds.... how long did you wait?

Bummer. That sounds slightly worse than the white stripey line problem a couple of people (including myself) had on delivery. Correct powerup behavior defaults to going to the TVGuide setup screen, so you shouldn't have to press the source button.

You probably call your dealer first (was it TVA?) and ask them to help.

Alternatively...

First step would be to see if you see the lamp lighting up through the lamp vent in the rear. If that isn't happening, you can follow the lamp replacement procedure to make sure your lamp is fully installed.

If that doesn't work and depending on how much electronics experience you have, you might consider unscrewing the service panel in the back and make sure all the cables/cards are seated properly.

Then call Samsung for a warranty call.

Yeah, I pulled the vent cover of and verified the lamp is lighting. I can see light out the back when it's on, so I knew it was lighting. Seems to me there's something more wrong, which really blows :(

I noticed an interesting phenomenon last night on my HLR5067w. My wife needed to watch a VHS taped program last night, so I set everything up for her. The VCR is hooked up to my Onkyo receiver via composite video/audio cables, which the receiver then upconverts (don't know if that's the right word here) to S-video and sends to the tv's S-video input. Using this setup, i could clearly see the HLR5067's diamond pixel pattern on the entire image while sitting 9 feet away. Everything on the screen had a diamond pixel pattern texture on it. It was fine and watchable, but a bit bizarre. I'm not worried about it since we almost never turn on the VCR and I don't see the same phenomenon watching other SD programming. I just thought it was a bit curious. Also, I'd be surprised if it was the VCR that was causing this issue since the VCR played fine on a Toshiba 46hm84 in the past, albeit with a different VHS tape. I wonder if it could've been the way in which the program was recorded on the tape?

I would also know about the cablecard audio output. How would I connect a home theater syustem to get 5.1 digital output? Does the cablecard have an output on the card?

Is a cablecard the best choice for picture and features? I do know I would not be able to use the cable company guide - anything else?

It is $50 to have the card installed (crap I know) and $1.50 a month to have it. Currently, they are brining me a 3250HD receiver but I need to know if I should change the order.
Thanks!

I posted this over in the 2005 Samsung DLP thread, but also wanted to post it here:

Is anyone that is having sync problems on HDMI on the HLRxx67W using a DVD player? Are all HDMI sync problems coming from broadcast (cable, satellite)?

If you look in the manual it lists the HDMI input with only 2 channel PCM audio. It also says the Virtual Surround is only used with the digital antenna/cable and the IEEE-1394 connection.

Thank you aaronwt. I stand corrected. The Toshiba appears no better than the Samsung at passing 5.1 audio through the HDMI connection.

I noticed an interesting phenomenon last night on my HLR5067w. My wife needed to watch a VHS taped program last night, so I set everything up for her. The VCR is hooked up to my Onkyo receiver via composite video/audio cables, which the receiver then upconverts (don't know if that's the right word here) to S-video and sends to the tv's S-video input. Using this setup, i could clearly see the HLR5067's diamond pixel pattern on the entire image while sitting 9 feet away. Everything on the screen had a diamond pixel pattern texture on it.

I think this is due to S-Video, not your TV. I see the same diamond pattern on my CRT TV in certain cases with components connected through S-Video, while I don't see it with composite components. I noticed it most when I had a box that converted composite to S-Video from my VCR, similar to your setup. But I also noticed it just today in some large text at the top of the FBI warning for a DVD.

Is a cablecard the best choice for picture and features? I do know I would not be able to use the cable company guide - anything else?
I would have liked to use a CableCard - I'm all for less remotes and boxes and wires...
But, as you mentioned, you won't have the guide - you also won't have on-demand programming - and the HD on-demand movies is a nice feature. Most importantly for me, was the fact that the easiest way to have a DVR that supports HD content was by using a DVR cable box. I could never go back to a DVR-less existence.

Just received my 6167 today. Got it all set up, turned on the power and waited, and waited, and waited, and got a sinking feeling in my gut, but still waited....anyway, you get the picture.

The lamp lights up, the chimes play when I start it, so it has power. However, when I push the source, menu (or any) buttons on the side (not even using the remote) I get nothing. Also, when I push a button on the remote, any button, the green 'Timer' word flashes on the front and nothing happens.

Am I DOA? Searched this thread and didn't find anything. Anyone seen the problem?

I just encountered the exact same issue. I am on day 2 of my 5067. Everything has been working fine for 2 days. I came in the living room 20 minutes ago to check some wiring & tried to turn the TV on. I get the startup chimes & the screen comes on with a black background, but beyond that, nothing. The lamp is on. All the connections are solid (I have an S-Video signal from my Onkyo Receiver, an HDMI direct form my DVD, and cable straight from the wall running as inputs). But I am getting no response from the remote or the buttons on the side of the TV itself.

The last menu option I changed was to set the clock & set the TV Guide menu to NOT come up when I start the TV. Other than that, no changes have been made.

I am physically shaking right now at the thought that my brand new TV could be DOA. Is there something I am doing wrong? Is there anything I can do???

HELP ME PLEASE! :eek:

Well, all I can say is treat this TV like a Windows OS computer. I shut down & rebooted the TV several times. I left it off for about 5 minutes & then tried rebooting it again & voila...my picture is back.

Is this something that is a known bug with this TV, or should I call Best Buy & tell them to bring me a new TV?

Wouldn't you know it. Just a couple days after purchasing, I just got a coupon in the mail from Rest Ruy for 10% off regular price. The sale price I paid worked out to about 5% off regular price. It equates to about a $140 difference. I doubt I would have any success bringing in the coupon and asking for the difference. I'd probably have to return and repurchase it. The store's about 40 minutes away - I don't think that's worth $140.

Well, all I can say is treat this TV like a Windows OS computer. I shut down & rebooted the TV several times. I left it off for about 5 minutes & then tried rebooting it again & voila...my picture is back.

Is this something that is a known bug with this TV, or should I call Best Buy & tell them to bring me a new TV?


AARGH! I "rebooted" several times, including physically removing power cord from the wall. Each time I restarted, I waited about 5 mins before shutting down again. Never did see anything.

LSUMBA, did your green "Timer" light flash on the front when you used your remote? Mine does.


Anyway, it's loaded back on the truck and going to service today, hopefully I'll have a new one soon!

>:(

AARGH! I "rebooted" several times, including physically removing power cord from the wall. Each time I restarted, I waited about 5 mins before shutting down again. Never did see anything.

LSUMBA, did your green "Timer" light flash on the front when you used your remote? Mine does.


Anyway, it's loaded back on the truck and going to service today, hopefully I'll have a new one soon!

>:(

Where did you get the TV? Is Samsung helping you on the replacement/repair?

Good luck!

My HLR5067 arrived from TVA yesterday and I'm giggling with pleasure. My first HD, so I'm probably not as picky as some, but so far I love it. Cable is just basic wire into the back of the tv. SD channels are fine, HD channels are gorgeous. Composite DVD (from a cheapie $50 philips player) are gorgeous. PS2 through SVHS looks fine, if a little jaggy (as expected - I plan to pick up the composite connectors asap). HTPC through the VGA port is crisp and clear (far easier to read than my old 27" crt).

I'm still making decisions on speakers for surround, so I can't offer any lip sync feedback.

One question, though. I have the HTPC attached at the VGA input. Set to 800x600 the display fits perfectly on the screen in 4:3 mode. Any higher settings "overflow" the display, like I'm still seeing an 800x600 window but the rest is off the screen. I tried various settings up to 1280x720x60hz (which I would expect to fill the display perfectly, and the manual does report is supported). Anyone know how to get a 1-1 pixel mapping here?

One other thought...there was a minor mixup on shipping and Ryan at TVA jumped all over it getting it fixed. Great customer service.

Zach

LSUMBA, did your green "Timer" light flash on the front when you used your remote? Mine does.

Anyway, it's loaded back on the truck and going to service today, hopefully I'll have a new one soon!

>:(

Yeah, everything was working except the picture. I have the audio going into the TV & then back out to the receiver. I turned my stereo on & I could hear the audio. I hit the source to switch from DirecTV to cable, and I could hear the audio. Switch to the DVD, I could hear the audio. But no picture.

Like I said, it seems to be working now, but I am seriously reconsidering calling BB back & getting the 5 year extended warranty for $400 (as truly sad as that sounds)!

Doh...anywhere i said "composite" i meant "component"...

Like I said, it seems to be working now, but I am seriously reconsidering calling BB back & getting the 5 year extended warranty for $400 (as truly sad as that sounds)!
It's not a Windows computer. :)

I would ask for an exchange in your situation.

Best Buy has a 10% off sale this weekend. Very tempting but I feel like I need to do some more tests for this tv at Tweeter and see more reviews. Not to mention buy a stand.

set the TV Guide menu to NOT come up when I start the TV. Other than that, no changes have been made.

I wonder if that might be a problem. I usually get a 5 to 10 second delay between turning the tv on and getting an image. It then takes another 20 seconds or so for the lightbulb to fully energize and give me its normal brightness.

granted, I haven't combed through the manual yet, but is the "no tv guide" setting obvious or am I just overseeing it?

I wonder if that might be a problem. I usually get a 5 to 10 second delay between turning the tv on and getting an image. It then takes another 20 seconds or so for the lightbulb to fully energize and give me its normal brightness.

granted, I haven't combed through the manual yet, but is the "no tv guide" setting obvious or am I just overseeing it?

With the TV Guide menu on screen, you go into the settings & set it to "NO" on the option where it automatically comes up when the TV is switched on. It is not in the regular manual, you have to find it in the seperate TV Guide manual.

And I doubt that it is in any way related. The TV was on for a good 5 minutes with no picture. Then when I tried turning it off, letting it sit, and turning it back on after 5-10 minutes, it worked fine & came up within seconds.

I just called the BB support line & they told me if I want it exchanged, I have to go to the store manager & request a replacement. That will be an interesting endeavor since the manager does not like me already because I had them price match the TV for me. Oh well, I may wait till after the holiday weekend since I have 30 days to exchange it.

Best Buy has a 10% off sale this weekend. Very tempting...BB would have to discount far more than 10% for me to have to go through the "No, I do not want the extended warranty. No, I do not want to buy over priced cables. No, I do not want your DVD movie package. No, I do not want Netflix. No, I do not want a Sports Illustrated subscription. No, I do not want AOL. No, I do not want your broadband subscription. No, I do not want to subscribe to your points card. No, you may not be on commission but you still get points for each 'extra' you talk people into." routine.

fwiw, you can usually get them to throw in the point card for free.
save $200 by talking for 10 minutes is probably the best $/hour I give myself. Usually you can find a B&Mdroid that's reasonable and just skip through those questions quickly with no pressure.

Is anyone using a cable card? I'm interested in your experiences. How are you getting 5.1 surround sound? Thanks.

fwiw, you can usually get them to throw in the point card for free.
save $200 by talking for 10 minutes is probably the best $/hour I give myself. Usually you can find a B&Mdroid that's reasonable and just skip through those questions quickly with no pressure.

I was shocked that they woudl even charge for the points card. My sales guy did not even ask me if I wanted it, he just gave it to me & voided out the price.

The way I see it, is the same as you bhchan, it is free money. For the money I spent at BB, I will likely get over $100 back in BB gift cards. That will offset the cost of my DTV HD Tivo box!

Wouldn't you know it. Just a couple days after purchasing, I just got a coupon in the mail from Rest Ruy for 10% off regular price. The sale price I paid worked out to about 5% off regular price. It equates to about a $140 difference. I doubt I would have any success bringing in the coupon and asking for the difference. I'd probably have to return and repurchase it. The store's about 40 minutes away - I don't think that's worth $140.

When I bought my Toshiba att BB about two years ago I walked back in a week later because I needed some cables (had nothing at the time) and they were handing out 10% discount coupons. I drove straight home and got my receipts and went to the counter - got the money back in 2 minutes - no problem. If you made a deal the 10% may still be from your total price not the difference - you paid something and they are offering 10% off - I would try it - especially if you are going to be anywhere close within the next week or so

Where did you get the TV? Is Samsung helping you on the replacement/repair?

Good luck!

I bought it in the TVA powerbuy. i called them first and was asked to call Samsung. Hugh at TVA was helpful as he could be, just not much he can do with a DOA unless I've already spoken to Samsung.

So, called Samsung, and again got a very helpful CS rep. The problem is...well...mapquest my Location and you'll see! I'm about 80 miles from the nearest "city", which is ~30,000 people. Samsung won't allow a repair tech to travel that far w/o special authorization. I tried to educate them that 80 miles out here is nothing, but the CS rep was honest and said to get the special auth would take 2 weeks, so I loaded in my truck and took it down there myself this A.M.

If the repair doesn't go well, I'm pretty confident TVA will do me right and get me a replacement ASAP.

If I were in a populous area, I'd be a lot more miffed about having to hump the set out of my basement and down to "the big city". But that's one of the things a guy has to deal with living out here in "God's country".

I sent Samsung an email about turning off DNIe and that in some situations, it looks better OFF. Here is their response:

"DNIE is always on. You cannot turn it off. In the menu, it has DNIE demo on and off. This feature is just a demo. You can only view the demo screen to compare. This feature is used in stores to show what DNIE does."


This sounds like an obvious disconnect from customer's usage and engineering.

BB would have to discount far more than 10% for me to have to go through the "No, I do not want the extended warranty. No, I do not want to buy over priced cables. No, I do not want your DVD movie package. No, I do not want Netflix. No, I do not want a Sports Illustrated subscription. No, I do not want AOL. No, I do not want your broadband subscription. No, I do not want to subscribe to your points card. No, you may not be on commission but you still get points for each 'extra' you talk people into." routine.

Points for each extra? I don't know what that's all about, I've worked at BB for a long time now and I've never gotten a single "point" for anything I've ever sold... interesting.

Also, the 10% ESE coupons are taken off the normal price... no sale prices or anything are involved... with all the bad stuff I've heard lately about people buying from the web and getting a broken or DOA product, buying from a retail store seems more and more attractive in that you can take the physical product home that day, and you know what you're buying...

~Lance

My only question about buying a DLP tv from Best Buy or Circuit City as apposed to getting it from TVA or another online site is the returning policy and also the ease of getting things fixed. Lets say for instance that I get a DLP and its dead on arrival or a few months later I get the smudges problem or something else. Who will be easier to fix the problem, a local store or an online one? Or am I totally wrong and that it would be Samsungs problem because I would definitely get a warrenty with a tv if I get it from a local or online store.

I rather get a DLP from a website because they offer lower prices and I get free shipping and no taxes. I'd say I can save about $300 from buying this tv online as compared to BB or CC. But I like being able to see someone that I'm buying it from. I also feel better if I had any problems, it wouldn't be hard for BB or CC to come to my house to fix it. I drive a Honda Civic so there's no way I can pick this tv up or take it back in that.

Any suggestions?

My only question about buying a DLP tv from Best Buy or Circuit City as apposed to getting it from TVA or another online site is the returning policy and also the ease of getting things fixed. Lets say for instance that I get a DLP and its dead on arrival or a few months later I get the smudges problem or something else. Who will be easier to fix the problem, a local store or an online one? Or am I totally wrong and that it would be Samsungs problem because I would definitely get a warrenty with a tv if I get it from a local or online store.

I rather get a DLP from a website because they offer lower prices and I get free shipping and no taxes. I'd say I can save about $300 from buying this tv online as compared to BB or CC. But I like being able to see someone that I'm buying it from. I also feel better if I had any problems, it wouldn't be hard for BB or CC to come to my house to fix it. I drive a Honda Civic so there's no way I can pick this tv up or take it back in that.

Any suggestions?

As one of the aforementioned DOA recipients, let me chime in. I went the TVA route, and even though I was unfortunate enough to get a DOA, the people at TVA & Samsung have been very helpful thus far. The B&M stores indeed do give you someone to "see", but that doesn't guarantee you any better customer service, which is the whole point right?

Might be my own experiences that have driven me from CC & BB, but I've had terrible customer service from both places! Trying to return a product can be a nightmare, and was in my cases.

I'd rather be part of the middle tier of a man-pyramid at Abu Grahb. :eek: ....ok, maybe not....but it's close! :D

Points for each extra? I don't know what that's all about, I've worked at BB for a long time now and I've never gotten a single "point" for anything I've ever sold.
Please don't misunderstand - I have no beef with anyone that works at BB or CC. I understand you are doing exactly what you are being asked to do and that you wouldn't work there long if you didn't ask those questions.

None the less, I find "suggestion selling" very annoying. Don't like it at McDonalds or anywhere else. One of the business mags reported that all of BB or CC's profits comes from extras like extended warranties, so there's an amazing amount of pressure on store managers to push those things.

My use of the word points was generic. You could substitute SPIF, bonus, prize, award, incentive payment, or any one of a hundred eupheisms that management uses to avoid using the word commission. While floor people at BB may not get a dollar commission on an individual sale, they almost certainly get rated on the extras they sell. Are you saying that you've never received anything of value from BB other than your hourly paycheck?

A few months ago, I went to BB to buy a printer. Knew exactly where it was on the shelf. Managed to grab the box and make it 1/2 way to the register before I had 2 or 3 floor people come up to me to try to sell cables and warranties. Feh!

As one of the aforementioned DOA recipients, let me chime in. I went the TVA route, and even though I was unfortunate enough to get a DOA, the people at TVA & Samsung have been very helpful thus far. The B&M stores indeed do give you someone to "see", but that doesn't guarantee you any better customer service, which is the whole point right?
Same experience here. 'twas far happier with TVA's support than I have been with local dealers.

The Amazon deal for the HL-R5667W is dead. I guess that made up my mind about getting it!

If you don't like it then just say "No Thank you!" and proceed on your merry way!I understand some people feel that way. To me, its similar to the argument that says I shouldn't complain about spam because if I don't like it I can just click on delete.

The Amazon deal for the HL-R5667W is dead. I guess that made up my mind about getting it!
Not dead just sold out. I had it in my basket and it still has it at the low price.

Stupid newbie question...what are smudges? Can someone please describe what they are and what they look like? How would I know if I have smudges? Odds are, if I have to ask I probably don't have them...I hope.

What I thought was smudges was really just some light reflections per Samsung rep. These went away when we rotated the TV around.

I took matters into to my own hands to day with a download from Universal Remote to my handy-dandy MX-800 of the Samsung Discrete Codes along with codes from the old HLP series. I then made a visit to a local BB store hoping to find a HLR-5067W but couldn't find one and settled for an HLR-4667W.

The discrete power on and off functions both worked.
The DNIE discrete code only activated the DNIE demo - sorry - it won't turn off DNIE.
The aspect mode 16:9 and 4:3 codes worked.

As far as video input modes, I cannot be 100% certain but it seems as though the proper codes work for each source. The TV I tested only had Component 1 hooked up. When I entered the discrete code for other sources, I got a message similar to "Input not connected". I went through Vid, S-Vid, Comp, HDMI, PC and IEE 1394 with the same messages.

It appears that the old HLP codes are compatible with the new HLR models.

I called Samsung Tech support to verify - but the support engineer said that if it is not explained in the manual - it is not supported by Samsung. He further stated that if the discrete codes worked on the HLP that they will work on the HLR. I asked for an escalation to a senior engineer to confirm with no luck. I mentioned the Samsung TV Discreet Key guide posted on their web site but he still insisted discrete codes are not supported. Now how's that for customer support!

Here is the "official" Samsung position from the tech support section on their site:

"The remote control that came with your system cannot transmit discreet IR codes. Consequently, to get the discreet code functions to work, you must purchase a third party programmable/learning remote control that generates IR codes. This remote control must be able to accept the discreet codes published by Samsung.
You should be able to find information about remotes and remote dealers at websites such as http://www.remotecentral.com.

If you would like to see a list of discreet codes for some Samsung TVs, please click Discrete IR Codes Revised.pdf in the Attached File field above. "

What I thought was smudges was really just some light reflections per Samsung rep. These went away when we rotated the TV around.
Glad to hear it was only reflections.

Can someone please explain what smudges are? I also have reflections but I am not sure I would know if what I think are reflections are really smudges. And how can smudges develop months after you have the set? Is this moisture in the screen?

Anyone have any dealings with third party sellers on Amazon? I found the 5667 for a ridiculously low price that was advertised as new and covered by Amazon's A-Z guarantee. I am somewhat concerned of gray market goods. Anyone have a good way to tell from the box and what does the box look like for the TV? I have the UPC of the box from Samsung's website. They were listed as a reputable dealer on their site.

Anyone have any dealings with third party sellers on Amazon? I found the 5667 for a ridiculously low price that was advertised as new and covered by Amazon's A-Z guarantee. I have both bought and sold a number of items through Amazon Marketplace, but I would think long & hard about buying something as expensive as a large DLP through that channel.

The Amazon AtoZ guarantee only applies to non-delivery or misrepresentation of condition. And even then, it only covers up to $2500 including shipping. If the seller is not a Samsung authorized dealer (ie grey market), you may have difficultly getting any warranty coverage.

The old adage "if it sounds to good to be true..." probably applies here.

Not dead just sold out. I had it in my basket and it still has it at the low price.


Wow that was fast. I ordered it yesterday morning and it is already in Baltimore. According to the tracking bill I should have it by Tuesday. I'll let you all know. What a deal! The 56 was cheaper than the 50.

Anyone have any dealings with third party sellers on Amazon? I found the 5667 for a ridiculously low price that was advertised as new and covered by Amazon's A-Z guarantee. I am somewhat concerned of gray market goods. Anyone have a good way to tell from the box and what does the box look like for the TV? I have the UPC of the box from Samsung's website. They were listed as a reputable dealer on their site.

I bought a computer from a 3rd party seller on Amazon and it was a rip off. I never received the computer and had to file a claim with my credit card company to get my money back. If it's to good to be true, forget it. Also, shipping, handling and support are critical. Go with a quality vendor for an item like a HDTV.

Please don't misunderstand - I have no beef with anyone that works at BB or CC. I understand you are doing exactly what you are being asked to do and that you wouldn't work there long if you didn't ask those questions.

None the less, I find "suggestion selling" very annoying. Don't like it at McDonalds or anywhere else. One of the business mags reported that all of BB or CC's profits comes from extras like extended warranties, so there's an amazing amount of pressure on store managers to push those things.

My use of the word points was generic. You could substitute SPIF, bonus, prize, award, incentive payment, or any one of a hundred eupheisms that management uses to avoid using the word commission. While floor people at BB may not get a dollar commission on an individual sale, they almost certainly get rated on the extras they sell. Are you saying that you've never received anything of value from BB other than your hourly paycheck?

A few months ago, I went to BB to buy a printer. Knew exactly where it was on the shelf. Managed to grab the box and make it 1/2 way to the register before I had 2 or 3 floor people come up to me to try to sell cables and warranties. Feh!

I totally see what you're saying dude. I've never really reacieved any extra stuff besides company-wide contests and most of that was usually based on margin dollars... I'm a supervisor now so it's a little different, but most of the sups and area managers run contests so I can see what you're saying, but there really aren't points or spifs or anything like that anymore. Most of the time the stuff they ask you is to determine whether or not you'd benefit from the accessories, unless you had a really bad salesperson that should have been pretty evident... if not come to my store and we'll show you how it's supposed to be done.

~Lance

Is 6 feet too close to sit infront of the Samsung 46" DLP?That's all the space I'll have

Is 6 feet too close to sit infront of the Samsung 46" DLP?That's all the space I'll have
Not for some. What about you? :)

You are the only one who can answer your question.

If using the Cable Card option, is it possible to get 5.1 sound out of the television. I understand that passing 5.1 sound through the hdmi connection isn't possible, but was wondering if 5.1 sound from hd cable material is possible if going the cable card route. I know this has been asked before, i'm just hoping that repeating it will annoy someone enough to answer, haha.

Mostly, i'm just asking how people have their audio set up if they are using the cable card.
Thanks

Oh, and i ordered a 56" today with the matching stand. I'll hopefully have the set soon, so now i'm looking into audio related stuff.

I finally recieved my Bush Edgewood stand and got the HLR5067W perched on it. Still some tweaking required, as well as some wire cleanup, but here's the room:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/14855/size/big

I left off the 3" pedestal/baseboard from the Bush stand so that it wouldn't be too high. It is very close to perfect; about 1-2" higher than optimal, but no noticeable drop in brightness when seated at my couch.

With a little playing around, I think I can get a couple good shots of HD content, preserving the quality. If anyone is interested, I'll post em up. If not, I won't waste the time :)

Enjoy,

Breddy

Anyone have any thoughts on whether there is an advantage of waiting 3-4 months before buying the x5067? I know that prices tend to go down, but I have read previously that high demand for this series of TVs may make the price actually increase. Also, any thoughts on how the release of the '1080' resolution Samsungs will affect the '67' series?

Is 6 feet too close to sit infront of the Samsung 46" DLP?That's all the space I'll have
You'll need to go to a store and try it out yourself....

I finally recieved my Bush Edgewood stand and got the HLR5067W perched on it. Still some tweaking required, as well as some wire cleanup, but here's the room:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/14855/size/big

I left off the 3" pedestal/baseboard from the Bush stand so that it wouldn't be too high. It is very close to perfect; about 1-2" higher than optimal, but no noticeable drop in brightness when seated at my couch.

With a little playing around, I think I can get a couple good shots of HD content, preserving the quality. If anyone is interested, I'll post em up. If not, I won't waste the time :)

Enjoy,

Breddy

POST POST POST........please :)

Thats a very good looking stand and I almost want that but its a bit deep for what I want. 25" deep is too much for a tv that is only 14". I only need something that is about 18" cause of my Yamaha AV receiver. Any suggestions? Most stands also seem to be about 58 or 59" wide. I was hoping for something around 55" (I'm kinda tight on space but not). Just want to be able to put this tv on a stand with two 3" wide speakers.

Is 6 feet too close to sit infront of the Samsung 46" DLP?That's all the space I'll have


Not at all, I have around 6-7 feet and a 5067 fits perfect.

Is this normal for HD Tunners?

I don't know.

But one thing I like is that for OTA reception, is seems to group analog and digital broadcasts for the same network together. For example, channel 16 is my local ABC SD station. Their HD signal is, well I don't know, probably channel 100-something. But my HLR-5667 calls it "16-1" since it is associated with channel 16. And the TV puts it right next to channel 16 in the channel list.

MSHAP did you notice the lip sync issue on analog coming from the stereo (receiver) speakers or the tv speakers or both???

anyone else ? i have dish HD dvr box 942. anyone else with dish and a 67 series notice lip synce problems????

So far I've only tried DVD, OTA SD, and OTA HD. Here are the results:

DVD: no lip sync issues (audio fed straight from DVD player to AV receiver)
OTA SD: no lip sync issues (TV speaker audio only)
OTA HD: lip sync varies by channel - some channels are are pefect, some have light lip sync, and some have majory lip sync issues (TV speaker audio only). BTW, I have not checked to compare 480i/p HD content to 720p content.

Actually, I've got no idea how to tell what kind of signal is on an HD channel. Isn't there a button somewhere on the TV that should tell me if its receiving 480p, 720p, etc.?

If using the Cable Card option, is it possible to get 5.1 sound out of the television. I understand that passing 5.1 sound through the hdmi connection isn't possible, but was wondering if 5.1 sound from hd cable material is possible if going the cable card route. I know this has been asked before, i'm just hoping that repeating it will annoy someone enough to answer, haha.


If you have a cable card and run the optical out from the TV to your receiver, you will get DD 5.1 surround sound. As an added bonus, audio will be in sync with the video. :-)

I had a chance to take a good look at the 61" HLR today. I noticed that it was very very dark. Even after tweaking the settings quickly, the set was still very dark. It was only the second day on the floor, but the TV still had very poor brightness, anyone else noticed this w/ the larger sets?

My 56" seems fine, but I guess now that I've seen the 61" it seem damn near bright.

~Lance

I was in CC yesterday (on other business) and saw a HLR 6167; I thought it looked like the brightest big screen set out there. ??? It is always amazing how different these things can look in different settings (particularly in the 'mass market' B&M's).

So far I've only tried DVD, OTA SD, and OTA HD. Here are the results:

DVD: no lip sync issues (audio fed straight from DVD player to AV receiver)
OTA SD: no lip sync issues (TV speaker audio only)
OTA HD: lip sync varies by channel - some channels are are pefect, some have light lip sync, and some have majory lip sync issues (TV speaker audio only). BTW, I have not checked to compare 480i/p HD content to 720p content.

Actually, I've got no idea how to tell what kind of signal is on an HD channel. Isn't there a button somewhere on the TV that should tell me if its receiving 480p, 720p, etc.?

How is your DVD player connected to the TV (HDMI, component, etc.)? How is your DVD player connected to your receiver?

So far 3/4 of this ~14 page thread has been off topic. Please remember this is an HLR owners thread. The thread is not about where to buy an HLR. The thread is not about shipping. And to a lesser extent, the thread isn't about TV stands either.

Let's please restrict this thread to things new HLR owners, people with HLRs already setup and running in their homes, would be interested in. Otherwise, there's just too much noise in here. Keep in mind there are other threads about first imperssions, shipping, tv stands, retailers, etc.

I finally recieved my Bush Edgewood stand and got the HLR5067W perched on it. Still some tweaking required, as well as some wire cleanup, but here's the room:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/14855/size/big

I left off the 3" pedestal/baseboard from the Bush stand so that it wouldn't be too high. It is very close to perfect; about 1-2" higher than optimal, but no noticeable drop in brightness when seated at my couch.

With a little playing around, I think I can get a couple good shots of HD content, preserving the quality. If anyone is interested, I'll post em up. If not, I won't waste the time :)

Enjoy,

Breddy
Very nice stand, looks great, wow...that's nice.

Can ya tell, I've got the same stand for my 5067 :D I installed the base and was concerned about height, but so far I'm pretty happy with it. I watch TV from the couch, chair, even the floor and have no problems enjoying the picture.

FWIW, we went with this stand because of the glass doors to help hide/protect the AV equipment (little rug rat running around) and for the drawers...momma wants the remotes and guides out of sight when not in use. Oh...and assembly was fun, some complain it's too complicated or takes too long, but I kind of enjoy putting stuff together so for me it was a joy ;)

How is your DVD player connected to the TV (HDMI, component, etc.)? How is your DVD player connected to your receiver?

Video is DVD player > HDMI > HLR5667

Audio is DVD player > toslink > AV receiver

For OTA, audio is OTA antenna > HLR5667 (tv speakers only, haven't tried using AV receiver for that yet)

Doesn't SD material look like crap to you at only 6-7 feet from a 50" set? It does for me.

It's OK, doesnt bother me. I like to switch between HDTV equivelants and see a difference. But it is alright.

Actually, I've got no idea how to tell what kind of signal is on an HD channel. Isn't there a button somewhere on the TV that should tell me if its receiving 480p, 720p, etc.?
On the TV's remote there's a nice button labeled 'Info'. That should tell you the input format, among other things.

On the TV's remote there's a nice button labeled 'Info'. That should tell you the input format, among other things. Unfortunately, on the Samsung HLR series it doesn't. It says the video mode, channel, program title and that's about it. Can't find anywhere to get source resolution.

You're causing me to doubt my sanity! I'm quite sure that when I push the 'Info' button I get the format - I've seen it say 720, 1080, etc. - and I haven't owned an HDTV previous to this HLR5067.

Is it input specific? I am thinking now that before I had an HD capable STB, I put the cable feed directly into the TV and found unscrambled HD channels - and I vaguely recall not seeing the input format then - the info I got then was simply whether it was SD or HD.

I am now using an SA8300 with Cablevision.

I received my HLR5067 from that crazy Amazon deal about an hour ago. Don't have HD yet (our Comcast friends are not inclined to hurry up when you need them), but I couldn't believe SD could look that great from my viewing distance (10'-11') ! So far so good...

Need some help guys. A 5067 will definitely fit on this stand but do you think a Yamaha 2400 receiver will fit on the first (bottom) shelf? My AVR is 17" deep plus cables. This is really the deciding factor.

http://www.circuitcity.com/rpsm/oid/110765/rpem/ccd/productDetailSpecification.do#tabs

On the TV's remote there's a nice button labeled 'Info'. That should tell you the input format, among other things.

It doesn't give the input format. It distinguishes which port is currently being viewed, but nothing about resolution, interlace, or progressive.

With all of the talk about audio sync, makes you wonder why no one has made a box that can adjust the delay on audio. Optical and RCA in and out with a digital display controlled by remote.

With all of the talk about audio sync, makes you wonder why no one has made a box that can adjust the delay on audio. Optical and RCA in and out with a digital display controlled by remote.

I have a box that can adjust audio delay. It is also called a Preamp/Processor.

With all of the talk about audio sync, makes you wonder why no one has made a box that can adjust the delay on audio. Optical and RCA in and out with a digital display controlled by remote.

Do a google search for audio delay device.

Thanks.

OK, I have a question - in the 4:3 mode the vertical borderline between a picture and black side bars is not perfectly straight (slightly curved inside). Is it normal. Any ways to fight it?

Thanks,
Dmitry.

Band aids, band aids....The season finale of LOST had the video ahead of the audio. Audio delay boxen, eat your heart out.

OK, I have a question - in the 4:3 mode the vertical borderline between a picture and black side bars is not perfectly straight (slightly curved inside). Is it normal. Any ways to fight it?

Thanks,
Dmitry.

It is normal and there is no way to fix it.

Short and informative as a gunshot :) . Thanks!

shanec
I think it depends on what source you have showing. I know if i have it on component 1 (Cable box) it shows what rez is coming in and if i have it on cable 3(RF Cable) it shows the program name.
Yes I have the cable box hooked up to both component 1 and to the RF input.

It doesn't give the input format. It distinguishes which port is currently being viewed, but nothing about resolution, interlace, or progressive.

it does for some things.

from my yamaha5790 routed component video, it tells me that my dishnetwork 811 feeds it 1080i/60hz, while my DVD player feeds it 480p/60hz.

I don't remember if it tells me what my PS2 is feeding it only because I don't think I've checked.

For OTA, unfortunately, it doesn't give any indication of 1080i vs 720p.

OK, I have a question - in the 4:3 mode the vertical borderline between a picture and black side bars is not perfectly straight (slightly curved inside). Is it normal. Any ways to fight it?

Thanks,
Dmitry.

FWIW, my HLR5067 seems to provide ruler-straight borders when I'm PS2'ing on Component2. I get a black border, IIRC.

OTA, SD material show a gray border that's also ruler-straight.
DishNetwork811, SD material show a black border that I believe is created by the sat-receiver.

now, I just checked my eyesight, so it's not that.

I'm very sensitive to hourglassing (as I call it in the computer monitor side of things) so I would definitely notice.

What's your SD source and via which input?

It's some Motorola box connected via coax - I'm getting a CableCard next week.

Anyone know anyway to adjust the size, input and position of the picture in picture without going through the video menus?

~Lance

(Before we totally hijack the thread)
FWIW, I was somewhat disappointed with Cox cable in California. But that was before I got the TV, so the disappointment was mainly on price and SD content.

I switched to Dishnetwork for their cheaper DVR offerings, free HD for 6 months, and free equipment. :D (I didn't pony up the $250-odd for their HD-DVR though, which may or maynot be a problem in the near future)

dishnetwork Pros: if you have good off air reception, I'd stick with Dish network and, since you're in Florida, you might be able to get 61.5 reception and subscribe to Voom content.

dishnetwork Cons: if you don't have good off air reception like me, you may not get all the big broadcasters in HD (I'm missing NBC and UPN, for instance) until Dish gets their act together.

I'm going to stick with dishnetwork for now because I'm hoping they'll get the HD rights to NBC etc. soon...

Move the Dish vs DirecTV HD discussion off this thread, PLEEEAASSE.

OK, I have a question - in the 4:3 mode the vertical borderline between a picture and black side bars is not perfectly straight (slightly curved inside). Is it normal. Any ways to fight it?

Thanks,
Dmitry.

That's normal. Its tough to project light in such a small enclosure without some distortion. Its actually less curved than it looks. Hold a straightedge up to your set. You'll be surprised at how slight the curve is. Mine is off less than 1/8 inch at the center.

- Collin

Thanks a lot guys!

So far I've only tried DVD, OTA SD, and OTA HD. Here are the results:

DVD: no lip sync issues (audio fed straight from DVD player to AV receiver)
OTA SD: no lip sync issues (TV speaker audio only)
OTA HD: lip sync varies by channel - some channels are are pefect, some have light lip sync, and some have majory lip sync issues (TV speaker audio only). BTW, I have not checked to compare 480i/p HD content to 720p content.

Actually, I've got no idea how to tell what kind of signal is on an HD channel. Isn't there a button somewhere on the TV that should tell me if its receiving 480p, 720p, etc.?


Well, crap. I played O' Brother Where Art Thou today and had lip sync issues. Fairly signifigant too. The audio was off by about half of a word - whatever that amounts too.

My S97 DVD player has a delay setting, but its in the video menu. I'm not sure how delaying the video would help any when the video is already behind the audio. Maybe its a misnomer? So I turned that setting up as far as it would go to 100ms. This helped, but didn't completely fix, the problem. I'd say it made the problem tolerable.

Are there any really smart delay boxes out there? Something that merely keeps audio and video in sync regardless of which one needs to be delayed?

Move the Dish vs DirecTV HD discussion off this thread, PLEEEAASSE.

response removed... I decided a response was unnecessary.

Well, crap. I played O' Brother Where Art Thou today and had lip sync issues. Fairly signifigant too. The audio was off by about half of a word - whatever that amounts too.

doublecheck your DNR settings and make sure it's off, at least that'll save you one potential process. The manual (or something somewhere) stated that it's only really useful for cleaning up messy input (snow from OTA analog, I believe) which probably doesn't apply anymore. :D

then, check that disk on another TV and see if the transfer is especially dirty... if it is, then maybe the stupid DNIe is working too hard to clean it up. *sigh*

I should also mention there are complaints in the S97 brain dump thread about lip sync. So it could be my player. And my player has the latest firmware upgrade.

I'll check the DNR.

Update: DNR on my HLR-5667 was already off. BUT I noticed somehow my DVD player had been set for 480p, leaving the upconverting job to the TV. I switched the DVD player back to 720p and the problem was slightly improved - enough so that setting the delay parm to 100ms completely fixed the problem.

But I've still got OTA HD lip sync issues. Grrr...

In case there's any remaining doubt that the 'Info' button does show the resolution - at least for some formats, here are a couple examples.

Thanks for the Info :-) I confirmed I could get resolution by pushing Info with the HDMI feed running. But on my OTA input, there's no so much Info :-)

Using info button for OTA feeds (or DVD) does not show resolution....

Well, so much for breakfast!

I am the proud owner of a HLR5067W. Just wondering how you all clean your screen? I don't want to wreck mine when I have to clean it.

I am the proud owner of a HLR5067W. Just wondering how you all clean your screen? I don't want to wreck mine when I have to clean it.
I use a micro fiber cloth. I use it dry if possible or damp not wet for more serious cleaning.

Micro fiber is the cloth that comes with new glasses and it won't scratch. You can wash it but be sure to stay away from anything that would leave a residue in the fabric.

I did a slow search of the RPTV forum and got 58 hits on microfiber so you can probably find some testimonials in that group.

It's available in auto supply stores in sizes more appropriate for wide screen TVs, but be sure to get only the cloth. Some of them come with cleaning or polishing compounds imbedded in the cloth.

Here are some links.

http://www.neatitems.com/micro.htm
http://www.microfiber.org/

They had microfiber cloth at Walmart a couple of weeks ago. Eight pack (14"x14") for ~$5. They work great for lots of stuff where you want to get the dust and leave no lint (car dash, glasses etc.).

Well, I didn't see a first impressions thread, so.....

Its day 3 for my HLR-5667. This is my 1st HDTV. I'm still stunned. Let me just say you have not seen Finding Nemo until you have seen it upscaled on a good big HDTV. If somebody had told me I was watching Finding Nemo on HD DVD, I would have believed it. There is a ton of detail there that I had never seen before - not detail only noticeable by a videosnob/phile, but stuff that would be obvious to anybody. It is simply stunning.

And that's the bad news too. Other DVDs - Fight Club, Monster, The Matrix all have moments where artifacts and film grain/dirt/etc are visible. These are all things that are mentioned on most online DVD reviews. I'd seldom ever seen them before. But now the stuff appears regularly. I suppose the artifacts (maybe its macroblocking...but my 97S player is upgraded to the latest firmware which should have fixed that...) are typically worst on dark, but not black, solid background colors (ie: the shadowy green background in The Oracle's kitchen in Matrix Revolutions). But the rest of the image is so stunning, I'm still very pleased with it and I'd never look back for a second.

DOes the TV guide feature only work when using coax? It says not supported when I have only HDMI connected

I've been using the thx opitmizer (that comes on some dvds) to fine tune the picture since I don't have the DVE or AVIA dvds.

I noticed on one of the video tests that the picture if offset in the vertical by around 10 mm ! Is this due to the DVD or the TV ? Anybody else notice this ?

Can anyone tell me the depth form the front of the TV to the point where it starts to narrow towards the back on the HLR 50?

Thx in advance...

I finally recieved my Bush Edgewood stand and got the HLR5067W perched on it. Still some tweaking required, as well as some wire cleanup, but here's the room:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/14855/size/big

I left off the 3" pedestal/baseboard from the Bush stand so that it wouldn't be too high. It is very close to perfect; about 1-2" higher than optimal, but no noticeable drop in brightness when seated at my couch.

With a little playing around, I think I can get a couple good shots of HD content, preserving the quality. If anyone is interested, I'll post em up. If not, I won't waste the time :)

Enjoy,

Breddy



Looks like you got some real estate on that stand for a 56" ;) ;)

Overall, looks great.

nice speaker stands; where u get them?

Awesome stand! I just got my hlr5067 on Wed May 25, I love it. I think you sold me on the stand. Nice setup!!! Post more Pics!!!

I am very new to the HD tv experience. Just got an hlr5067 when I put in the Empire strikes back dvd there are still small black bars on top and bottom of screen. I thought with the wide tv screen this would be eliminated. Any advice or suggestions?

I am very new to the HD tv experience. Just got an hlr5067 when I put in the Empire strikes back dvd there are still small black bars on top and bottom of screen. I thought with the wide tv screen this would be eliminated. Any advice or suggestions?Use the "zoom" feature if it bothers you.

There are several differenct widescreen ratios used for movies. Your new TV is 16x9, which is approximately 1.77 to 1. Most movies today are shot at 1.85 to 1, near enough the same. A few movies are shot in what used to be called Cinemascope, which is 2.35 to 1. To show those movies on your TV, you can either crop the sides ("zoom") or have black bands on the top & bottom.

New HLR5067w on 5/24

This morning, turn on TV, Lamp light blinks....and blinks....and blinks, then goes off and standby comes on (Sometimes)

When I push a remote button, the TIMER light comes on.

I tried a cold boot (Unplug set for 15 min) Still no lamp. I can hear the fan running.

Any suggetions? When I did a search on lamps, it was mostly about warrenty replacement.

Noe TV was on Last night (Baby sitter) for about 5 hours straight.

Set is 6 inches from back wall, no enclosure.

I noticed that if you turn off the TV, then immediatly turn it back on that it will sit there blinking lights longer then usual. Eventually it'll turn back on tho...

I am very new to the HD tv experience. Just got an hlr5067 when I put in the Empire strikes back dvd there are still small black bars on top and bottom of screen. I thought with the wide tv screen this would be eliminated. Any advice or suggestions?
The link at the bottom of my message describes black bars from the point of view of the HLM, HLN, HLP series Samsung DLP sets. Your HLR set may have some differences but if it does they shouldn't be too significant.

If you still have questions after you read the first message in the thread about aspect ratios, ask away. :)

Talked to Samsung customer care- they said it sounds like a bad bulb, and set up a service tag and gave me a place to call.

-I spoke to guy who answered phone, he said "it's sunday, call back tuesday".

Sounds like a guy who works out of his house.

I Can't even talk to local serice rep to set up service until tuesday-, will probably take longer to get him out.

This BITES. :( :mad:

Talked to Samsung customer care- they said it sounds like a bad bulbYou might try opening the lamp door, removing & reseating the lamp assembly and closing the door. Its a long shot, but you never know. Instructions are in your owners manual.

I asked about if there was anything I could try- he said he didn't think so. The lamp lights a little ( I can see it through the back)

I am hooked, and can't go with out hidef for 3+ days!

Also have poeple coming over to whom I have been boasting about the PQ

I am tempted to try to find a new bulb and keep it as a back up when this one is replaced. ( Although prices may drop between no and the time I'd need one.

Anybody know of places you can pick up a bulb ( No via mail order)?

are they going to replace the bulb:? I thougt bulbs are not under warranty?

I believe bulbs are under the first year warranty

And then extended life warrantys may or may not cover them.

They indicated the service call is to replace the bulb, he said this was the first bulb issue on an HLR he has seen.

Any chance you can exchange it where you bought it?

BTW, we just got the 4667W in where I work. I'm pretty disappointed in the picture quality so far. Just a general lack of detail and not very good black level.

I was one of the people who got the Amazon deal-

right now, I think it is a coincidence that it is having an issue ( More my bad luck than anything 'wrong' with the Amazon sets)

I am very new to the HD tv experience. Just got an hlr5067 when I put in the Empire strikes back dvd there are still small black bars on top and bottom of screen. I thought with the wide tv screen this would be eliminated. Any advice or suggestions?

Empire was filmed in 2.35:1 which will still give you fairly small back bars. The other popular format is 1.85:1 (Saving Private Ryan) and that will you will have tiny black bars or none at all due to overscan.

Does anybody know if the screen on HLR-5067 can be replaced? I found a couple of large grayish spots and a couple of small dark ones on the screen. To be honest they don't affect the PQ but I still feel that $2000 product should be perfect...

Does anybody know if the screen on HLR-5067 can be replaced?
Yes it can.

I found a couple of large grayish spots and a couple of small dark ones on the screen. To be honest they don't affect the PQ but I still feel that $2000 product should be perfect...
There may also be some dirt in the light path. In any case, it can be fixed or cleaned.

Quick question - is the manual correct in that the analogue sound output on the HLR XX67 goes via the volume control of the TV?

I was planning to use a stereo amp and not a receiver and was hoping for a simple line level output.

Thanks.
Nicholas.

I've been using the thx opitmizer (that comes on some dvds) to fine tune the picture since I don't have the DVE or AVIA dvds.

I noticed on one of the video tests that the picture if offset in the vertical by around 10 mm ! Is this due to the DVD or the TV ? Anybody else notice this ?

This could be the TV or the DVD player. Only way to know is to try a DVD player that's known to have a well centered image. This is correctable via the service menu of the TV, even if it is the DVD player that's off. I don't know if the service menu information for the HLR has been posted yet, but it is definitely correctable. You could also try switching your DVD players connection to s-video, component, or HDMI (just something different) and see if it changes, which might give you an idea if it's the DVD player or TV. Let us know what DVD player you're using as well. DVE or Avia would give you an estimated percentage of screen space that is lost, as well as a lot more bars to work with.

The main point to get across here is that it's all part of the usual geometry/overscan tweaking that us AVS supergeeks get obsessed with :) And that it should be correctable and is not something I would consider a "flaw." You could potentially have a tech come out and do this for you, although I make no promises.

This could be the TV or the DVD player. Only way to know is to try a DVD player that's known to have a well centered image. This is correctable via the service menu of the TV, even if it is the DVD player that's off. I don't know if the service menu information for the HLR has been posted yet, but it is definitely correctable. You could also try switching your DVD players connection to s-video, component, or HDMI (just something different) and see if it changes, which might give you an idea if it's the DVD player or TV. Let us know what DVD player you're using as well. DVE or Avia would give you an estimated percentage of screen space that is lost, as well as a lot more bars to work with.

The main point to get across here is that it's all part of the usual geometry/overscan tweaking that us AVS supergeeks get obsessed with :) And that it should be correctable and is not something I would consider a "flaw." You could potentially have a tech come out and do this for you, although I make no promises.


SONY DVP-NS325

Switching between SVideo and Component shows a difference. Svideo is alittle more centered (~3-4mm) than component.

I'm also dissapointed with lipsync. I thought the lipsync was only inherent to HDMI and/or DVI but I also started to notice it with the DVD (audio straight to Sony STR-D615 receiver using RCA cables).

SONY DVP-NS325

Switching between SVideo and Component shows a difference. Svideo is alittle more centered (~3-4mm) than component.

I'm also dissapointed with lipsync. I thought the lipsync was only inherent to HDMI and/or DVI but I also started to notice it with the DVD (audio straight to Sony STR-D615 receiver using RCA cables).
I don't know much about that particular DVD player, but I think that only outputs 480i if I remember correctly. On the HLN/HLP series, the lipsync/lag issues were exacerbated by 480i signals since the TV had to deinterlace and scale the image, which resulted in audio lagging behind video. Running the audio directly to the receiver also potentially unmasks the problem since the TV can normally compensate for the time to deinterlace/scale by incorporating a delay on the audio as well, at least when the audio is actually run to the TV. This of course is an acceptable solution most of the time if you run your audio through the TV in some fashion (even as a pass through), but doesn't work well for gaming where timing is critical.

Along the same lines, 480p (as opposed to 720p) was more likely to have an issue because a scaling step was necessary. Is this what you've observed?

I don't think that DVI/HDMI vs component made any difference if the resolution was the same. The A?D conversion should take virtually no time at all. I'm a little surprised that you're getting synch issues with HD since even the old models didn't do that. Is there any chance it's actually the result of the output of your cable/satellite box?

...only outputs 480i...I'm a little surprised that you're getting synch issues with HD since even the old models didn't do that. Is there any chance it's actually the result of the output of your cable/satellite box?

Thanks for the help Mikea28.
I think the sony dvd player will get relegated to the guest bedroom and I'm gonna have to pick up a new one. Any suggestions ?
I don't think I said I had synch issues with HD (ota by the way).

Thanks for the help Mikea28.
I think the sony dvd player will get relegated to the guest bedroom and I'm gonna have to pick up a new one. Any suggestions ?
I don't think I said I had synch issues with HD (ota by the way).
My mistake - must have been someone else that mentioned the HD synch issues. That's also disappointing that 480i might still have these issues. I was really hoping that'd be one of the big fixes with the HLR series and the new ATI-based scaler.

The debate of what DVD player to get could go on for quite some time. I think the Panasonic S77/S97 or the Sony 975 are both excellent choices that run around $250. They both upconvert DVD's to 720p or 1080i via HDMI, thus providing an all digital connection from disc to display. There are lots of other options out there. Check out the DVD forum for way more information that you ever wanted ;)

I've got a 97S with my HLR5667. I've watched several DVDs now and more often or not there is a lip sync problem. Actually the problem can be corrected with audio delay (in the video settings menu, oddly enough) set to its maximum value of 100ms. So that player is effectively at the end of its rope on lip sync. This is over HDMI.

I haven't tried component much because the 97S doesn't upscale over component. And I find the HDMI (upscaled by the 97S) looks better than component (upscaled by the TV).

Update on my 5067w and the bulb issue.

Last night When it was darker) I noticed that the set had a light blue glow, like the bulb was dimly illuminated, and ther was about the same amount of light coming out of the back vents.

This morning hit power on, and fired up like nothing was ever wrong.

Bizarre- not sure If I should have them send a tech out to tell me nothing is wrong.

I think I need to review the warrenty info.

BTW I tried fooling around with the picture controls, and I could not get the Dnie "off" side to look better than the "on" side. This was done on the HDNET cable signal going through component cables,

Is the Dnie argument more on how it makes SD and DVDs look?

Update on my dead video problem (see post linked)....

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5675650#post5675650

On day 2 of my HLR5067W being in my house the screen went dead. Audio was working, but no picture. The problem seemed to fix itself, but there is no way I was going to chalk it up to a "hiccup" when the TV was only 2 days old. So I planned on going back to BB to get a replacement.

Determined that I was going to face an unnecessary fight, I walked into my BB yesterday and walked up to the salesman who sold me the TV. He was very apologetic & walked me over to the customer service manager. I told her my plight and right away she said "I have been wanting this TV for about 6 months too! Tell me what is going on." I figure I am in like Flynn since she has an interest in the TV herself. I tell her about the issues I am having & she asks if I had a BB tech rep come out. I told her no because I want a new TV, not a repair rep to come out & look at it. She smiles & says, "I would do the same thing!" She then proceeds to schedule them to come out & deliver a brand new TV to me (and pick up my current one) on Saturday free of charge.

Overall, I am very happy with the way BB has handled this so far. Hopefully my issue was a one-off problem and the new unit will not have similar issues.

Update on my 5067w and the bulb issue.

Last night When it was darker) I noticed that the set had a light blue glow, like the bulb was dimly illuminated, and ther was about the same amount of light coming out of the back vents.

This morning hit power on, and fired up like nothing was ever wrong.

Bizarre- not sure If I should have them send a tech out to tell me nothing is wrong.

I think I need to review the warrenty info.

BTW I tried fooling around with the picture controls, and I could not get the Dnie "off" side to look better than the "on" side. This was done on the HDNET cable signal going through component cables,

Is the Dnie argument more on how it makes SD and DVDs look?

GOOD, just in time for Miss Universe =)

I'd still have the tech come, he'll have a new bulb and maybe he can give you more info??

Yes- I just spoke to samsung and the customer service rep still recommended the visit. CS was Very helpful, and reminded me to register on line for the 3 month warranty extension.

The service should be out Thursday, I'll update then.

(and Yes I did catch a little of Miss Universe :) )

whats the " 3 month warranty extension"... i must have missed that somewhere

whats the " 3 month warranty extension"... i must have missed that somewhereIf you look at your warranty card, it says that you get a 3 month warranty extention (15 vs 12 months) if you fill out the web form.

If you look at your warranty card, it says that you get a 3 month warranty extention (15 vs 12 months) if you fill out the web form.

Looks like I gots me a little "to do" when I get home! :cool:

I finally recieved my Bush Edgewood stand and got the HLR5067W perched on it. Still some tweaking required, as well as some wire cleanup, but here's the room:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/14855/size/big

I left off the 3" pedestal/baseboard from the Bush stand so that it wouldn't be too high. It is very close to perfect; about 1-2" higher than optimal, but no noticeable drop in brightness when seated at my couch.

With a little playing around, I think I can get a couple good shots of HD content, preserving the quality. If anyone is interested, I'll post em up. If not, I won't waste the time :)

Enjoy,

Breddy

Looks great. I'm debating the same stand. From other online posts it seams to be well built, but a pain to put together (3 hours). My one holdup is the center speaker. Could you post the dimensions of the center shelves?

Thanks!

I posted this on the Basic Widescreen Thread as well.

Owners of the HLR sets should be aware that viewing in 4:3 Aspect Ratio should be limited to no more than 15% of our total viewing per week. Found this in the paperwork that came with my set and confirmed it with Samsung.

Thought the Plasmas were the ones with burn in issues - not so.

I don't see that in my HLR paperwork. In fact, it explicity says there are no burn-in problems. And if 4:3 was a problem, then 2.35:1 ought to be a problem too.

Looks great. I'm debating the same stand. From other online posts it seams to be well built, but a pain to put together (3 hours). My one holdup is the center speaker. Could you post the dimensions of the center shelves?

Thanks!

I have the same HLR5067 and stand. I also had concerns and problems with the center shelf and my center channel speaker, as it turns out I had to buy a new speaker.

Going off memory, I believe the center shelf is approx 17.5" wide...my old center speaker is around 19" and my new on is 16.5", nice tight fit, looks great.

And the fact that there is nothing to burn. Its all basically light. Unless they are saying the light is so focused that it will burn a hole in the screen and shoot out killing all those in the room?

I posted this on the Basic Widescreen Thread as well.

Owners of the HLR sets should be aware that viewing in 4:3 Aspect Ratio should be limited to no more than 15% of our total viewing per week. Found this in the paperwork that came with my set and confirmed it with Samsung.

Thought the Plasmas were the ones with burn in issues - not so.
Even if the information came from Samsung it is not correct, and it might be better if you weren't so active in spreading it around the forum.

It can be confusing to people who haven't followed DLP for years, and who have not also dealt with misplaced boiler-plat text in manuals.

... and confirmed it with Samsung.

Even though the "facts" indicate that this bit of info is incorrect, out of curiosity, with whom or in what capacity was the person at Samsung who provided "confirmation."

Can you imagine how this would negatively impact the sales of Samsung DLP's if they really had an issue with burn in!?!?

Burn-in is not an issue on DLP sets. The concept makes absolutely no sense. Here is a link to Samsung's current DLP brochure. On page #2 it states there is NEVER any risk of burn-in

http://product.samsung.com/SamsungUSA/PRODUCT/20050408/HLR4266W4667W5067W5667W6167W.PDF

Can you imagine how this would negatively impact the sales of Samsung DLP's if they really had an issue with burn in!?!?
It comes up every time that paragraph winds up in a new model's User Guide.

I thought Samsung's documentation people have gotten rid of it but like Jack Nicholson's .... Jack Torrance in the Shining. "I'm back .....!"

I've been using the thx opitmizer (that comes on some dvds) to fine tune the picture since I don't have the DVE or AVIA dvds.

I noticed on one of the video tests that the picture if offset in the vertical by around 10 mm ! Is this due to the DVD or the TV ? Anybody else notice this ?
This quote peaked my curiosity. So I popped in a THX dvd, ran the test and saw the same display offset as cpb_mille. Could be the factory default settings. Everyone else seeing the same scenario? Anyone tweak things through the service menu yet??

I've had the HLR 4667 for about 2 weeks now and the overall picture quality looks great while watching HD. I have however noticed tremendous ghosting while watching movies on SD and DVD. Anyone else experiencing the same problem?

I've gone through a calibration DVD and was wondering if there's anything else I can do to eliminate this issue?

Anyone know if the HLR-5667W can handle PAL format?

I've had the HLR 4667 for about 2 weeks now and the overall picture quality looks great while watching HD. I have however noticed tremendous ghosting while watching movies on SD and DVD. Anyone else experiencing the same problem?

I've gone through a calibration DVD and was wondering if there's anything else I can do to eliminate this issue?

What DVD player are you using, what signal are you sending to the TV (480i, 480p, 720p), what input on the TV are you using, and what cable are you using?

Anyone know if the HLR-5667W can handle PAL format? Can you be a bit more specific regarding the source? I play PAL video using the VGA interface on my HLR4667W with no problem. I have loads of PAL DVDs, but my DVD player converts to NTSC. Haven't tried seeing if I could output in PAL from the player, but I can look at it tonight.

This quote peaked my curiosity. So I popped in a THX dvd, ran the test and saw the same display offset as cpb_mille. Could be the factory default settings. Everyone else seeing the same scenario? Anyone tweak things through the service menu yet??


Might want to read posts 467-470, or somewhere in there.
The DVD player and connection type may have something to do with it.
And yet, I would also like hear if anyone has gone into the service menu to tweak things.

In any case, I've had my tv for about a week but I've just returned it. WorstBuy is going to pick it up no questions asked, no additional charges. I'm going to try and jump in on the 1080P powerbuy :D

UCSB: I do not have the DLP Brochure - I have the HLR5067 AND the Owners Manual. P. 2 of my manual refers to Tradmark and lic. Notice Info.

HTWAITS: I did not realize I was all THAT active. Just trying to pass on information I found by reading the information that came with my set.

I have a single sheet of paper with all the rest which states "IMPORTANT WARRANTY INFORMATION REGARDING TELEVISION FORMAT VIEWING"

This paper says to limit viewing of less than full screen to 15% per week. I called the Samsung customer service number and talked to a tech. rep. Told him I had the DLP HLR50-67 and he confirmed the burn in issue.

If the information I received with my HLR5067 and from the Samsung Rep. is in error, how so? Where in the Owners Manual does it say DLP has no burn in issues?


BTW: The burn in issue doesn't seem to have affected PLASMA sales.

HTWAITS: I did not realize I was all THAT active. Just trying to pass on information I found by reading the information that came with my set.
One question may be worth a thousand (or two) premature announcements. :)

This link will take you to Samsung's web page for your set.

http://product.samsung.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=HLR5067WX%2fXAA

Samsung is a very big organization and it's almost never perfect in the information that it communicates. It's especially hard to find, train and retain qualified low lever costumer support people. And I can guarantee that those putting that burn-in flyer into your TV's box were not engineers from the DLP area. :o

You have to understand that the DLP addicts in this forum have been at it since 2002. There is no basis for burn-in when DLP technology is used. That characteristic has been a big selling point from DLP's inception. Light and mirrors is how its done. No stimulated phosphors are used at any point. :)

If the information I received with my HLR5067 and from the Samsung Rep. is in error, how so? Burn-in is caused by one of two things: An electron gun that is exciting certain specific phospher pixels to the same intensity for a continuous period of time (ie a CRT)

-or-

Plasma pixels that are being lit continuously by electrical charge.

A DLP works by shining a single light source continuously against a mirror array, which reflects that light onto a translucent screen.

There's nothing to "burn in" in a DLP projector. You can shine the light full bright white with a black pattern for 8000 hours, replace the bulb when it fails and you won't see so much as a shadow. The mirror does not get impressed with a pattern nor does the screen.

Manufacturers use standard language that has been vetted by their lawyers. Changing that legalese is very difficult, especially as they use similar language in all their TVs, some of which burn in warnings do apply. Since telling you not to watch more than 15% SD pictures on a Wide screen does no harm, they probably aren't in a big hurry to take the warning away.

Joined while looking for information on my new set.

I purchased the HL-R4667W model yesterday and I am in shock and awe (in a good way).

Have it running with Comcast digital cable (getting an HD PVR today from them) a Sony progressive scan DVD player via component, a Pelican System Selector Pro (I hate Pelican but this thing is quite good) Xbox, PS2 and GameCube all via component. Audio is fed to a set of Logitech Z5500 via optical.



I did have to tweak the image a bit to get it to look better. I read all my documentation and couldn't find the paper saying that 4:3 causes burn-in. In any case, it's impossible.

This is my first HD set and I'm in heaven.

Might want to read posts 467-470, or somewhere in there.
The DVD player and connection type may have something to do with it.
And yet, I would also like hear if anyone has gone into the service menu to tweak things.

In any case, I've had my tv for about a week but I've just returned it. WorstBuy is going to pick it up no questions asked, no additional charges. I'm going to try and jump in on the 1080P powerbuy :D

This sucks. I'm getting my 56 delivered tomorrow via the A* deal. I hope I have better luck. I'll let you know.

....another HLR5667W annoyance I've come across with OTA programmed channels.
I programmed x number of channels into memory on day1 (after an autochannel setup). I've noticed 2 or 3 times now that new channels mysteriously appeared in my channel lineup. And these are channels not in reception. I've had to go back into the menu and manually delete the unwanted channels.

EDIT:
By the way, my returning the TV was not due the vertical misalignment (which you cannot notice when watching DVDs or OTA channels).

HD picture quality is absolutely phenomenal but I think I jumped the gun and now I want to upgrade to 1080P. :p

Can you be a bit more specific regarding the source? I play PAL video using the VGA interface on my HLR4667W with no problem. I have loads of PAL DVDs, but my DVD player converts to NTSC. Haven't tried seeing if I could output in PAL from the player, but I can look at it tonight.

My DVD player (S97S) plays PAL but it does not convert it to NTSC. My TV (HLR-5667W) says that it does not recognize the signal or something similar to that.

I was an owner of an HLR6167 for all of an hour. I unboxed the shoddy packaging, and the screen was cracked :( . Samsung really needs to package these better. There is no protection for the screen at all. Sears will try another delivery Friday. I hope the second is a charm.

What DVD player are you using, what signal are you sending to the TV (480i, 480p, 720p), what input on the TV are you using, and what cable are you using?

DVD is Panasonic DMR-E80H, signal being sent at 480P. Using component input with cable company issued component cables. Also connected: *D HD Tivo through component cables and a cable HD DVR connected through DVI. The ghosting doesn't happen all the time; just during movies that have dark scenes.

I can't imagine I'm the only one experiencing the ghosting. If anyone else is having the same issues and has a fix (if any) please let me know.

Anyone know if the HLR-5667W can handle PAL format?

Can you be a bit more specific regarding the source? I play PAL video using the VGA interface on my HLR4667W with no problem. I have loads of PAL DVDs, but my DVD player converts to NTSC. Haven't tried seeing if I could output in PAL from the player, but I can look at it tonight.

Whether the signal source is NTSC or PAL is only an issue over component or svideo connections. VGA, DVI and HDMI handle color differently and whether the source is NTSC or PAL is moot. I believe the same is true for component, but I'm not certain.

Assuming were talking DVD here: Some DVD players will output the color system the disk is encoded with, some will convert. If your TV cannot handle PAL as well as NTSC (I dont think it does) then your DVD player should be set to only ever output NTSC. If it cant then you wont be able to play that DVD. Sorry.

My DVD player (S97S) plays PAL but it does not convert it to NTSC. My TV (HLR-5667W) says that it does not recognize the signal or something similar to that.

Seems to confirm the TV cannot handle a PAL signal. You need to convert the signal to NTSC. I don't have the DVD player, but maybe it can be set to output NTSC. If not then your only option is a format converter....and good ones aren't cheap.

How do you access the service menu? Is it dangerous to mess with that stuff? Is there a guide to what is in there?

How do you access the service menu?
See below for more than you might want to know. Remember it's based on HLN/HLP sets. I know nothing about any changes that may be in the HLR SM.

Is it dangerous to mess with that stuff?
It can be.

Is there a guide to what is in there?
Not that I know about.

Originally posted by millerwill
htwaits: Is it possible for you to give a step-by-step 'idiot proof' protocol for going into the SM and making this gamma change? I've never been into the SM and have always been nervous about the idea. But you sound like it's worth it. (Have a 6163.)
Can one idiot protect other idiots? ;)

Here are the "enter-SM" instructions for the HLN sets. They are the same for a HLP set but the contents of the SM and navigation keys are different. I haven't checked all the navigation instructions myself.

Find Samsung Firmware Version:

The firmware version installed on any set is recorded on the first page of the SM. There is a long ID number at the bottom of the page. The last three digits (HLN) or last four digits (HLP) are the firmware version of your set.

Remember that in any dealing with Samsung you are not supposed to know your firmware version.

Record your User Settings for "Picture" before you enter the SM. The HLP sets will revert to factory defaults for the UM when you exit the SM.

Instructions for accessing the Samsung Service Menu:

Anyone using these suggestions should know that the only change I have ever made to the SM is changing GAMMA from the default value to zero. I have never "messed around" in the SM. Remember that there is no reset function. If you see something that looks like one don't use it.

I can recommend, without any reservations, recording all original SM settings before making additional changes.

****** Thanks to LCH. 09/02/2003 ******

Turn Melody off in the user menu (allows entering the Service Menu from power On state without using a lamp cycle).

With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.
(If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )

The service menu should appear for the input you were viewing before keying the above sequence. Be sure to give the set enough time to complete the process(30-60 seconds).

While in the service menu, you can change inputs with the TV/Video button to view the SM for other modes.

Use the CH up, CH down & select keys to navigate the Service Menu. Press MENU to return to the main Service Menu after viewing individual functions.

Later, you will use the VOL(+) & VOL(-) keys to change the SM values.

" ... when you access the SM on the HLPxx63 (probably all HLP models), the directional arrows around the "Enter" button control navigation, not the volume and channel buttons ..." MacGyver1970.

To Exit the SM, power off. Leave it off for several(30) seconds. (until all cooling activity is complete)

Example steps to change GAMMA on a HLP5063 with firmware version 1011 and a build date of May 2004:

The SM main menu looks like this.

1. DDP1011 (The GAMMA setting is here.)
2. GM1601
3. DNIe
4. FLI2310
5. CXA2171
6. Vsp9437
7. Upd 64083
8. CCA
9. SP Actuator
10. OPTION (The tally of hours of lamp operation is in this menu.)

Ver: T_ATLNUS_1011 (this is the firmware version)

First record user menu entries for "picture" and enter SM.

Steps from the main SM.

1. Select DDP1011 using the directional arrow keys -- up and down.
2. Enter DDP1011. I used the right arrow key but maybe the "enter" key will work too.
3. Select GAMMA using the up or down arrow key.
4. I entered GAMMA using the right arrow key, but the "enter" key may also work.
5. I used the right and left arrow keys to change the value of GAMMA.
6. I used the up arrow key to return to the DDP1011 menu. Again, the "enter" key or "menu" key might do the same thing.
7. I returned to the main SM with the "menu" key.
8. Power off and wait for a full shut down to save entries that you have changed in the SM.

9. Power on after about 30 seconds and enter your user menu picture settings.

This change to GAMMA makes "some" owners happy. I feel that after setting GAMMA to zero and setting brightness with the DVE DVD that the details in dark scenes were improved. To really get the most out of our set I am getting an ISF calibration done by SethS.

As of 12/14/2004:
Mode = Cinema
contrast = 90
brightness = 45
sharpness = 0
color = 48
Digital NR = OFF
DNIe = OFF

Enjoy.

....another HLR5667W annoyance I've come across with OTA programmed channels.
I programmed x number of channels into memory on day1 (after an autochannel setup). I've noticed 2 or 3 times now that new channels mysteriously appeared in my channel lineup. And these are channels not in reception. I've had to go back into the menu and manually delete the unwanted channels.

FWIW, there's a second menu (at least in my 5067w) where you get a grid of all the OTA signals available. I then select ones I want to show and ones I want to skip there.

Intermittant LAMP issue update. I am glad I still had the Factory tech come out.

The set worked fine with the tech here, but then it failed agin.

He said they have had a few issues with the digital board.

He first tried a new light engine- same issue. He then replaced the digital board.

The lamp was working the whole time (Even before) but the board wasn't sending a signal to the screen.

So a new board is installed. He also gave me an extra brand new bulb for my inconvience.

Very happy with the service and support.

I've had the HLR 4667 for about 2 weeks now and the overall picture quality looks great while watching HD. I have however noticed tremendous ghosting while watching movies on SD and DVD. Anyone else experiencing the same problem?

I've gone through a calibration DVD and was wondering if there's anything else I can do to eliminate this issue?

I notice with my Avia calibration DVD that having the sharpness turned up to high can create a ghosting effect. I ended up turning the shaprness all the way down to zero.

I ended up turning the shaprness all the way down to zero.
A lot of people do that anyway. The sharpness control is not going to improve the image, and as you found out, it might make it worse.

He also gave me an extra brand new bulb for my inconvience.


ohh sweeeet


i hope my digital board goes too :)

Joined while looking for information on my new set.

I purchased the HL-R4667W model yesterday and I am in shock and awe (in a good way).

Have it running with Comcast digital cable (getting an HD PVR today from them) a Sony progressive scan DVD player via component, a Pelican System Selector Pro (I hate Pelican but this thing is quite good) Xbox, PS2 and GameCube all via component. Audio is fed to a set of Logitech Z5500 via optical.


I did have to tweak the image a bit to get it to look better. I read all my documentation and couldn't find the paper saying that 4:3 causes burn-in. In any case, it's impossible.

This is my first HD set and I'm in heaven.


Interesting, I got an HLR5067W on Memorial Day; including the stand as well. The entire stand took about an hour to assemble; it really wasn't that difficult. I'm currently working on figuring out whether to go Comcast or OTA for my HD reception. Right now on Limited Basic I get two digital channels, and they look pretty good. My equipment is all old and outdated, including an Sony DVD player that's gotta be over 5 years old. I'm looking forward to reporting on my experience with the set.

As a random little tangent, why does the appendix in the manual have a reference to QAM, even though I haven't found any evidence that this model even has QAM?

As a random little tangent, why does the appendix in the manual have a reference to QAM, even though I haven't found any evidence that this model even has QAM?Sure it does. QAM is the modulation scheme that cable comapnies use for SD and HD digital signals. ATSC is the OTA modulation scheme. Your set will decode both...

FWIW, there's a second menu (at least in my 5067w) where you get a grid of all the OTA signals available. I then select ones I want to show and ones I want to skip there.

Yes. That's just an alternate way of selecting (or deleting) channels for memory.

I'm currently working on figuring out whether to go Comcast or OTA for my HD reception.

Comcast has a nice HD DVR they offer down here in the San Francisco area for $9.95/mo. Great way to get started with HD.

DO NOT READ THIS if you dont want to know what the rainbow effect is... (makes it more tempting to read, huh?)

So, i havent noticed any rainbow effect with my HLR 67 and was wondering what it was all about. I didnt go out of my way to find this and even after finding this, it hasnt affected me at all.

To see the effect, just pop in a DVD that has a stationery white line or white circle (I used the Video test in THX Optimizer) and if you scroll your eyes across or in any direction across the TV or even physically move your head across, you can notice what the rainbow effect is. It is quite irritating and I am fortunate that i dont notice it during regular TV watching.

DO NOT READ THIS if you dont want to know what the rainbow effect is... (makes it more tempting to read, huh?)
So who are you trying to help. :confused:

4667 user 2 days old TWC in nyc (i'm an employee) - cable card, 8300 dvr (SD) on svideo1 , toshiba sd2109 dvd on component 1, PS2 on component 2

as a time warner employee i'm goign to be trying out different configurations on my set... what i want to do is have the 8300HD on component1 and the cable card, with the HDMI being used for a dvd upconvertor later on. here's the probem i'm having though.... First of all setting up a cable card is its own special kind of hell... it took me hours yesterday to do it even with all my special phone numbers. be glad that whoever on here has it done has the technician to go through all this. the cable card was installed the day after i got the box. the next morning woke up to the TV guide (couldn't get it to come in without the card for some reason) and no picture on anythign but basic channels... i had to reset the card to get my channels back but they did come back.... this has happened twice so far today. dont' know if it is a problem inherrant to cable cards or i just have a bad one. here's my main beef though.... WHY DOESN"T THE TV GUIDE DISPLAY THE CHANNELS IN NUMERICAL ORDER?!?!?!?!?! i see no option for this... it seems like everything is displayed in alphabetical order.. and i am not about to set up the channels manually. another problem i am having is even though i have a discription of the program in the tv guide... when i press the info button twice there is no program title or description in the info box... and if anyone was wondering you do not get the display resolution with the cable card either. Does anyone know of a fix for the way the guide is set up?

a page or 2 back someone mentioned the way to get into the service menu to turn the gamma down (which i did) however he also mentioned that he had turned his DMIe off... is this an older set you did it too? can't find that option in the service menu

lastly.. does anyone have a good explination for what film mode is? is it another optical trick that samsung uses? i've been leaving it off for now

thanx

Matt

PS i thought the contrast was supposed to be 2500:1 however the display card attatched to the tv says 2000:1 which is correct?

I tried to attach a photo of my ghosting problem.

I love the picture quality on my HLR5067W for HDTV.

But I see ghosting on DVD text, such as menus and credits.
Is this is normal for 480p input (I'm using component).

When I display the AVIA (or DVE) resolution/sharpness test pattern
I see a two faint copies/ghosts to the left of each vertical
crosshatch. Tried 2 DVD players and 2 sets of component cables.

The Samsung tech used a signal generator to display a similar test
pattern and my set still showed ghosting at 480p.
There is NO ghosting when the signal generator outputs 720p or 1080i (jitters),
or when I play my AVIA test pattern at 1024x768 thru VGA PC input.
This suggests the ghosting is introduced by the scaler.

I find it hard to believe that such a costly TV can't scale 480p
to 720p without adding extra lines. My old Toshiba CRT RPTV had no ghosting
when it scaled to 540p or 1080i. Samsung tech first said it was my DVD player,
but then after using the signal generator, said it was normal behavior.

Has anyone else seen this?
Do I have a defective set?
Is there another brand DLP that does better?
If you've seen and "fixed" this with an upscaling player, what brand?

I tried to attach a photo of my ghosting problem.

I love the picture quality on my HLR5067W for HDTV.

But I see ghosting on DVD text, such as menus and credits.
Is this is normal for 480p input (I'm using component).

When I display the AVIA (or DVE) resolution/sharpness test pattern
I see a two faint copies/ghosts to the left of each vertical
crosshatch. Tried 2 DVD players and 2 sets of component cables.

The Samsung tech used a signal generator to display a similar test
pattern and my set still showed ghosting at 480p.
There is NO ghosting when the signal generator outputs 720p or 1080i (jitters),
or when I play my AVIA test pattern at 1024x768 thru VGA PC input.
This suggests the ghosting is introduced by the scaler.

I find it hard to believe that such a costly TV can't scale 480p
to 720p without adding extra lines. My old Toshiba CRT RPTV had no ghosting
when it scaled to 540p or 1080i. Samsung tech first said it was my DVD player,
but then after using the signal generator, said it was normal behavior.

Has anyone else seen this?
Do I have a defective set?
Is there another brand DLP that does better?
If you've seen and "fixed" this with an upscaling player, what brand?

I don't have a 67 series unit, so I can't test to see if this is normal. Hopefully, another owner will be able to let you know if this is normal or if your HDTV is defective. But, if it is inherent in the TV and everything is great at 720p, why not just pick up a 720p upconverting DVD player? TVauthority said in the powerbuy thread that they have 25 Samsung DVD-HD950 in stock for a price less than MSRP of $199. The DVD-HD950 is just released and so there is not a lot of info on it yet. There is a thread dedicated to all up converting DVD players in the DVD player area.

Why not feed it 480i and let the TV set do the deinterlacing instead of the dvd player. I run 480i into my iScanHD with the SDI out from my dvd player with excellent results scaling to 1080i. I can't wait until I get my 6168 and feed it 1080P in the vga input.

Why not feed it 480i and let the TV set do the deinterlacing instead of the dvd player. I run 480i into my iScanHD with the SDI out from my dvd player with excellent results scaling to 1080i. I can't wait until I get my 6168 and feed it 1080P in the vga input.
Thanks, but I tried 480i again and I get the same level of ghosting for both 480i and 480p.
Other aspects of movies looked better with 480p, so I want to get that working.
The component ghost is "two on the left".
The s-video ghost is "two on the left, one on the right."
The composite input ghost is "one on either side"

So who are you trying to help. :confused:

Others who are curious like I was...

4667 user 2 days old TWC in nyc (i'm an employee) - cable card, 8300 dvr (SD) on svideo1 , toshiba sd2109 dvd on component 1, PS2 on component 2

as a time warner employee i'm goign to be trying out different configurations on my set... what i want to do is have the 8300HD on component1 and the cable card, with the HDMI being used for a dvd upconvertor later on. here's the probem i'm having though.... First of all setting up a cable card is its own special kind of hell... it took me hours yesterday to do it even with all my special phone numbers. be glad that whoever on here has it done has the technician to go through all this. the cable card was installed the day after i got the box. the next morning woke up to the TV guide (couldn't get it to come in without the card for some reason) and no picture on anythign but basic channels... i had to reset the card to get my channels back but they did come back.... this has happened twice so far today. dont' know if it is a problem inherrant to cable cards or i just have a bad one. here's my main beef though.... WHY DOESN"T THE TV GUIDE DISPLAY THE CHANNELS IN NUMERICAL ORDER?!?!?!?!?! i see no option for this... it seems like everything is displayed in alphabetical order.. and i am not about to set up the channels manually. another problem i am having is even though i have a discription of the program in the tv guide... when i press the info button twice there is no program title or description in the info box... and if anyone was wondering you do not get the display resolution with the cable card either. Does anyone know of a fix for the way the guide is set up?

a page or 2 back someone mentioned the way to get into the service menu to turn the gamma down (which i did) however he also mentioned that he had turned his DMIe off... is this an older set you did it too? can't find that option in the service menu

lastly.. does anyone have a good explination for what film mode is? is it another optical trick that samsung uses? i've been leaving it off for now

thanx

Matt

PS i thought the contrast was supposed to be 2500:1 however the display card attatched to the tv says 2000:1 which is correct?

I've given up on trying to keep the TV Guide channels in order. When I first got my Toshiba 57HX94 I manually set them up in order but often after I had to reset my TV my channels were back in random order. I called TW and was told this is how they are transmitted by Gemstar, however, speaking with Gemstar, the technician said the channels are displayed in the order that is requested by the cable companies for their different lineups...

I've given up on trying to keep the TV Guide channels in order. When I first got my Toshiba 57HX94 I manually set them up in order but often after I had to reset my TV my channels were back in random order. I called TW and was told this is how they are transmitted by Gemstar, however, speaking with Gemstar, the technician said the channels are displayed in the order that is requested by the cable companies for their different lineups...


most retarded thing i've ever seen..... well as a time warner employee i guess i shoudl know better... you'd really thing someone would have writen an option into the software for perfered sorting.....

anyway today i have no program info at all, and 1/2 the channels are grey with no channel tags. i'd say that the cable card experiment was a bust... has anyone tried a Time Warner firewire box on these sets yet?


Matt

(This is a compilation of my previous posts in other threads. I will now try and only post here on the new offical thread)

MY TV arrived about 3 hours ago. As this is my first DLP, HDTV or even larger than 27inch TV, I will not try and make too many comments

As requested here is a picture

HLR5067w on coffee table (http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=14490&size=big&sort=1&cat=503 )

My setup for now:
Digital cable via Tivo via coax on antenna input
Direct cable via coax via tuner input
Progressive scan cheap DVD via component inputs
I don't own a PS2 or any other console, so I can’t test for you
HD Cable DVR arrives this week. TR46x3 stand arrives this week. Getting new composite cables for DVD this week. However, see below for HD comments

1) TV Guide setup comes on as soon as you turn the TV on. For me it makes little sense to use as I watch everything through a standalone Tivo, which controls my cable box changing. However I did set it up. You can setup the guide via a direct connection without a box as per the instructions. The directions say it D/L data when the TV is off...which it hasn't been yet. (Update; nothing came down last night, I have to see what I did wrong)

2) The 50 sits flush...no pedastal or extra feet

3) I currently have it on my Coffee table. Samsung TR46x3 is due to arrive Tuesday. Note: As I said in a previous post, that stand is only 17.8 inches deep and works with the 46,50 & 56.
Review:

The Good:
I have not seen any rainbow effect at all. However, I didn't see them on the HLN model either at a friends house

I now have the PC display working perfectly at 1280x720. I played a few games OK, although Act Of War did not want to play. i will try additional setting for AOW tomorrow

I do not hear the fan at all

When pressing the source button on the remote, only connected sources are selected. Any source that is not used, is skipped

The Bad:

You can not turn DNIe off. There is a DNIe demo setting, that just splits the picture in half to show you what DNIe does for you. Half the screen has it off and half on with labels on each side. however, this setting is more of a setting to sell the box and has no use at home. They even have a DNIe demo button on the remote, again of no use for home use. These type of things really bug me. Some have asked if DNIe only works on certain inputs. As, there is nowhere to change it in setup, I will never know which setup it works on. Please note: DNR can be turned on and off.

.

On page 57 of the manual, it says you CAN turn the DNIe on and off. Going to Menu, the Picture, then DNIe, there are three choices: on, off and demo. Can any owners confirm this, or was this a feature that was removed in the production units?
Carl

On page 57 of the manual, it says you CAN turn the DNIe on and off. Going to Menu, the Picture, then DNIe, there are three choices: on, off and demo. Can any owners confirm this, or was this a feature that was removed in the production units?
Carl

What manual are you looking at? I have my HLRxx67W manual (P/N BP68-00469A) in front of me. Page 57 is entirely dedicated to changing the picture size. Page 59 describes how to turn the demo mode on and off. No mention of turning DNIe itself off. Maybe you have a HLP manual or a non-67 series HLR.

After turning the demo on and off, it would take some miraculous tuning results before I would want to turn DNIe off. 90% of the time I like what it does better. I'd much rather have that choice, of course, and have no idea why they put such emphasis on the demo mode.

Jon