Samsung HLRxx67W Owners Thread --- 720p DLP HDTV [Text View] - Page 3

MatthewR

06-06-05, 07:46 PM

ok... in order to get the cards to work they had to write down the card numbers before they inserted them into the tv.. after the tv gets the channel line up it spits back 2 more numbers at you that you have to write down.. the techs then have to call up dispatch and wait for 20 minutes to add the card # to the account and then hopefully remember to add the right codes. after that the tech has to call the IT department to add the 2 codes that were give by the tv which can take another 20 minutes. now assuming the card actually works that means that its been 40 min to an hour if everything goes smooth.. if all the steps were followed and the card doesn't work (big possiblility it seems) then they would have to try the other one which could take another hour. the big problem here is that the techs are relying on 2 people other then themselves to get everything right.. and we have no way of actually checking if what they are entering is correct.

then again they could just be morons

the main problem is alot of these cards don't work.. the way people in my company talk i don't think we'd even have them if we werent' required to

anyway, after waiting on hold (yes even the techs have ridiculous wait times with our special telephone numbers) and having dispatch and it both mess up my numbers it took me about 2 hours to install one card... which doesn't seem to want to work properly from one day to another. i've had to refresh it 3 times already to get my channels back and had the guide download program data when it wants to. i'm going to be trying a new card later this week but im pretty sure i'm going to end up with an 8300HD box.

does anyone know why i can get program data on the guide but i cannot get the program info to show when i press the info button when i'm watching a channel? i thought that after the second press i'd be able to see the title of the program and info on it but it says not available.

Matt

Ronald K

06-06-05, 09:29 PM

Thanks Matt.

I knew it was going to be an unpleasant experience when the cable guy who brought the cable card asked me what it was. He then said he never installed one before and asked where it went.

When he called in the serial number and the Mac number the person on the other end said that she had never installed a cable card either. After a couple hours trying (with a second cable card) a second guy came to the house who knew less than the first guy.

When they gave up, I asked what was next. One guy said that I should call TWC and get service involved. When I asked who they were, I was told that they were sub contractors of TWC. I asked why they didn't call TWC service and they said that TWC gets irritated when they call. Honest!

I finally got through to the right person and we seemed to get it working a short time ago. When I do a diagnostics, I get 5 "denied" messages however.

I got an 8300 for another TV about a month ago. I love it. I had Dish with a 921 up till about 2 months ago and it never worked.

Thanks again.

MatthewR

06-06-05, 09:38 PM

ahhhh.. ok

sub contracters not so good.. work per job not per hour, i'm sure they weren't happy about spending that much time there... not to mention that they DO NOT INSTALL CABLE CARDS.. never trained.. probably never will be. they dont' even have signal meters.

i haven't tried any diagnostics on my card yet... gotta look into that

Matt

propahac

06-06-05, 10:48 PM

What is everybody's preference on this unit between HDMI and Component??? I just got an HDMI cable and actually think the component might look SLIGHTLY better.. any opinions?

aircasper

06-06-05, 11:02 PM

FWIW, my HLR5067 seems to provide ruler-straight borders when I'm PS2'ing on Component2. I get a black border, IIRC.

OTA, SD material show a gray border that's also ruler-straight.
DishNetwork811, SD material show a black border that I believe is created by the sat-receiver.

now, I just checked my eyesight, so it's not that.

I'm very sensitive to hourglassing (as I call it in the computer monitor side of things) so I would definitely notice.

What's your SD source and via which input?

Do you know if it's possible to have the set adjusted to provide straight (or straighter) borders? I'm not expecting perfectly straight side borders when watching 4:3 material, but the bowing in on my set seems a bit severe, extremely noticeable on 4:3 material, and also easily noticeable on 16:9 material when the image contains a straight vertical edge (e.g., edge of a wall) which displays as bowed in depending on which side of the screen the straight edge appears in the source material. somewhat bothersome.

Also, I've noticed the smudging issue on my screen and am wondering if people suggest that I give Samsung a call to replace the screen? The smudging generally goes away after the tv has been on for a while, but it's more noticeable (with multiple smudges througout the screen) when i have the screen door open with cold air blowing in around the tv.

I guess a service call is in order. :(

mjturner

06-07-05, 12:28 AM

Afergy

06-07-05, 12:42 AM

I tried to attach a photo of my ghosting problem.

I love the picture quality on my HLR5067W for HDTV.

But I see ghosting on DVD text, such as menus and credits.
Is this is normal for 480p input (I'm using component).

When I display the AVIA (or DVE) resolution/sharpness test pattern
I see a two faint copies/ghosts to the left of each vertical
crosshatch. Tried 2 DVD players and 2 sets of component cables.

The Samsung tech used a signal generator to display a similar test
pattern and my set still showed ghosting at 480p.
There is NO ghosting when the signal generator outputs 720p or 1080i (jitters),
or when I play my AVIA test pattern at 1024x768 thru VGA PC input.
This suggests the ghosting is introduced by the scaler.

I find it hard to believe that such a costly TV can't scale 480p
to 720p without adding extra lines. My old Toshiba CRT RPTV had no ghosting
when it scaled to 540p or 1080i. Samsung tech first said it was my DVD player,
but then after using the signal generator, said it was normal behavior.

Has anyone else seen this?
Do I have a defective set?
Is there another brand DLP that does better?
If you've seen and "fixed" this with an upscaling player, what brand?

I'm having the same problem with my new HLR 4667. I don't see ghosting when watching HD programming but do when watching SD TV or DVD on both 480i/480P. Not sure if there's a fix but would hope that this is not an unfixable problem.

u2ae2

06-07-05, 07:54 AM

Proud new owner of a HLR5067w. I am getting my system setup and I am attempting to get everything calibrated and set properly.

I am not going to use the TV Guide function of the TV, has anyone found a way to disable this, or not have it default to the TV Guide page on startup?

-Migedy
The setup menu at the top of the TV guide screen lets you turn off the auto display. It is not in the Samsung menu.

Congratulations on your HLR5067! I love mine. But I see ghosts. My post
#519 above has a photo.

You say you are calibrating. Would you report back if you see ghosts? Thanks.

mshap

06-07-05, 09:44 AM

shanec

06-07-05, 10:06 AM

I am just hoping to hear if any HLP or HLR owners are really, truly, 100% happy with their new tv's? I am interested in buying a HLR5067 and I always seem to read something like, "Great TV except for audio lag" or "best picture out there but I have to switch inputs to watch everything I want". Are there plenty of people out there as happy with the new tvs as they were with their systems before the gear lust set in? Great forum, and thanks for any replies.

I've had my HLR5667 for about a week now. I am convinced lip sync issues are more of a problem from the source material than anything else. I think lip sync issues with DVDs was caused by processing delay in the DVD player which was upconverting the signal to 720p. This issue has been cured by the audio delay setting in my Panasonic S97 player. Be absolutely certain you use a DVD player with an audio delay setting of at least 100ms. I get lip sync issues regularly with OTA HD and I'm confident that's a TV network issue. I haven't tried DirecTV or Xbox yet. But since my TV is primarily for DVD viewing, I'm not very concerned about DirecTV and Xbox.

The only outstanding issue I have with my TV, and its likely a setup issue, is with artifacts seen during DVD watching. I see what looks like a blocky or patchy color distortion in medium tone and dark backgrounds. And its almost always only in backgrounds. A tan wall in the background isn't just tan. Its light and dark tan that sort of shimers. Sometimes, it has light tints of other colors that shimmer with it. I see these artifacts in almost every DVD I watch. Some of them are really awful. But its not like this happens constantly throughout a DVD. Its only in certain scenes where this stuff is apparent or bothersome. And trust me, I'm no snobby videophile. I don't see rainbows or 1-pixel wide ghosting and such that some folks complain about.

I've got the latest firmware upgraqde for my DVD player (which is supposed to cure macroblocking, and that's why I'm calling my problem artifacts instead of macroblocking). My video settings were set according to Avia calibration which I performed. I haven't gotten in the service menu, so I may try that next. Its been said here that accessing the service menu and lowernig the gamma 2 notches helps shadow detail a lot. Hopefully that will clear this up.

I've really done nothing to try to cure this problem. I've been waiting for more suggestions to crop up. Maybe I'll simply try copying someone else's settings that they publish on here.

Am I happy? Yes. Would I be happy if the artifacting never got fixed? Yes. This TV is amazing. My only complaint here is that it isn't perfect. No HDTV currently on the market is without drawbacks that are occasionally noticable to novice viewers. Unfortunately, unlike the CRT world, we aren't at a time yet when you can buy just about any brand and get a virtually flawless (to a novice) TV. I simply didn't want to wait 3-5 more years for pricing to be down and high 'quality' to be virtually universal. I put 'quality' in quotes because even with their flaws, today's HDTVs are head and shoulders above SDTVs.

In short, if I didn't have an HDTV (which I didn't until recently), I would not hesitate to buy one now. But if I already had an HDTV, I would hold off before upgrading. I don't see spending thousands for marginal improvements. I'd prefer to upgrade by leaps and bounds. But that's just me.

Heywood

06-07-05, 10:08 AM

I am 99% happy with my HLR5067W

There was the bad digital board, but it was fixed with only one evening missed.

I have no problem with not being able to turn of the Dnie- I have tried, and I can't get the picture in the demo off side to look better.

I do not see rainbows

I have seen lip sync issues, but they have varied on the same channel from program to program. Not an Issue with almost all of my viewing.

I have set TV guide off ( The cable carrier already has a version through the box.

I love when people who haven't seen Hidef come over and see HDnet and are in awe of the picture.

MikeAlletto

06-07-05, 10:26 AM

The ghosting pictures almost look like sharpness is turned up way too high.

shanec

06-07-05, 10:33 AM

I did see ghosting an a Avia test pattern that was designed to show ghosting. And I ended up turning my sharpness down to 0. But my picture is still as sharp as ever.

FLApilot

06-07-05, 10:35 AM

I've had my HLR5667 for about a week now. I am convinced lip sync issues are more of a problem from the source material than anything else. I think lip sync issues with DVDs was caused by processing delay in the DVD player which was upconverting the signal to 720p. This issue has been cured by the audio delay setting in my Panasonic S97 player. Be absolutely certain you use a DVD player with an audio delay setting of at least 100ms. I get lip sync issues regularly with OTA HD and I'm confident that's a TV network issue.

I have seen lip sync issues with my Proscan CRT...based solely on source material. I suspect this is what folks who have their audio set up correctly are seeing. Enjoy until the source material gets better!

shanec

06-07-05, 10:55 AM

I've really done nothing to try to cure this problem. I've been waiting for more suggestions to crop up. Maybe I'll simply try copying someone else's settings that they publish on here.

OK, I'd really like to do some mining here. What's the best way to go about it? A new thread maybe? I'd like to know what video settings - in the 'regular' menus and the service menu' - have been working out well.

OK owners, what are you using? More specifically, what video problems have you solved and what settings did the job for you?

Please somebody say they fixed DVD artifact problems. :cool:

blacknoi

06-07-05, 11:06 AM

I am 99% happy with my HLR5067W

There was the bad digital board, but it was fixed with only one evening missed.

What was the issue with the digital board?

bhchan

06-07-05, 11:53 AM

0 DVD artifact problems with my cheap*$$ Sony (I think it's the NS595 or NS575... whichever one is cheaper and sells at Target.) in 480P mode via Components.

(yes, I bought a DVD player from Target... so sue me!) :D

Testing blacklevel using DVE, no macroblocking or pixelation or anything.

A new Force phrase for the day:
Check the Source, Luke. The Source.

7ate9

06-07-05, 12:03 PM

does anyone know why i can get program data on the guide but i cannot get the program info to show when i press the info button when i'm watching a channel? i thought that after the second press i'd be able to see the title of the program and info on it but it says not available.
Current generation cable cards are one way devices. When you hit the info button for your STB while watching a channel, it (the STB) sends a request for the data (the program info). This is not possible with today's cable cards. Yet another inevitable cost of being an early adopter.

Like you said, the cable co.s wouldn't even provide these cards if it were up to them. I would imagine there is little incentive to improve the CC experience until we see fully functional (read: two-way) CC technology.

Someone (MathewR?) mentioned the IEEE1394 boxes. This route provides its own guide related problems. As I understand it, when your STB is hooked up this way (via 1394) you will lose ALL cable guide functionality. This is supposedly due to bandwidth constraints with their 1394 implementation, but FWIW any such constraint would almost have to be self imposed by the cable co.s (the 1394 output is another mandated feature).

Can anyone with a capable STB verify whether or not you can use your program guide when connected via IEEE1394?

cjlawson

06-07-05, 01:06 PM

You should use movie mode as it provides better grey scale. You should also change gamma from 2 to 0 in the service menu.

Contrast=90
Brightness=52
Color=60
Sharpness=20

Kreesto

06-07-05, 04:31 PM

Afergy

06-07-05, 05:53 PM

For those of you that have calibrated the HLR properly, any suggetions other than turning down the sharpness to 0? I'm still seeing tremendous ghosting on everything except HD material. Someone mentioned adjusting the service port. Does that have to be done by a technician or is there a procedure I can follow?

UCSB

06-07-05, 06:03 PM

MatthewR

06-07-05, 07:49 PM

Current generation cable cards are one way devices. When you hit the info button for your STB while watching a channel, it (the STB) sends a request for the data (the program info). This is not possible with today's cable cards. Yet another inevitable cost of being an early adopter.

Like you said, the cable co.s wouldn't even provide these cards if it were up to them. I would imagine there is little incentive to improve the CC experience until we see fully functional (read: two-way) CC technology.

Someone (MathewR?) mentioned the IEEE1394 boxes. This route provides its own guide related problems. As I understand it, when your STB is hooked up this way (via 1394) you will lose ALL cable guide functionality. This is supposedly due to bandwidth constraints with their 1394 implementation, but FWIW any such constraint would almost have to be self imposed by the cable co.s (the 1394 output is another mandated feature).

Can anyone with a capable STB verify whether or not you can use your program guide when connected via IEEE1394?

so the info bar doesn't pull the program data from the built in TV guide? that seems like a major oversight. in fact.. if it doesn't i can't see how the info bar would be able to show anything at all.

deffinitly want to hear more info on the firewire STB though.. if not it looks like i'm goign to be the guiena pig

Matt

uiucsb

06-07-05, 09:20 PM

I am going to try to keep a rational approach by not posting some crazy thread in the main board that would attract too much bad attention. I want to know about smudges on the HLR's. Like aircasper wrote yesterday, I too see screen "smudges". This sucks. Let me describe them:
They really pop out when there is a light background (a pure white screen is the easiest to see them). You must be looking almost directly to exactly straight-on to their location on the screen. My smudges are very lateral position dependent. If you are sitting on place on the couch over, you won't see them. They run nearly the entire height of the screen on the right edge (about where the black bar starts for 4:3 SD). I've also seen some in other places on the screen. They look like someone has wiped a dusty rag over a sticky spot on the screen.

I've had the TV 2.5 weeks. I thought I noticed something within a couple of days, but it definitely wasn't as big as what I see now. The original smudge seemed to disappear. I've also noticed that they smudges aren't exactly the same every time.

Like aircasper, i'd like to know if anyone else sees this phenomena? Should this be a call to Samsung or a replacement TV from the seller?

shanec

06-08-05, 01:43 AM

You should use movie mode as it provides better grey scale. You should also change gamma from 2 to 0 in the service menu.

Contrast=90
Brightness=52
Color=60
Sharpness=20

Cool. This worked out pretty well.

What is your Tone set to (ie: cool2, cool1, normal, warm1, warm2). I'd been on warm1, which is the default. After using your settings, I moved the tone to normal and it looked even better. I'd guess that's where your's is also.

Heywood

06-08-05, 09:36 AM

What was the issue with the digital board?

What I thought was a lamp issue (see earlier in thread) was an intermittent problem with the board not translating a signal.

Happened twice, once on day three, then day 4 was fine.

Second time was when the Tech came out. He said based on my call/description, it was either the light engine or the digital board. He brought out both and made the switch one at a time.
He said it wasn't common at all, but is a known issue to check for.
I think he also said if it was bad, it would happen very early on, so if yours has gone a week or more, you should be ok.

7ate9

06-08-05, 09:47 AM

so the info bar doesn't pull the program data from the built in TV guide? that seems like a major oversight. in fact.. if it doesn't i can't see how the info bar would be able to show anything at all.
I was referring to the program guide provided by the Cable Co. It is that guide that requires the two-way communication. For instance with my SA box on TWC, sometimes when I hit the info button it'll say "requesting data" and take some seconds to download before displaying the guide info. I'm not familiar with the built in TV guide functionality, or how it interacts with a cable card.

deffinitly want to hear more info on the firewire STB though.. if not it looks like i'm goign to be the guiena pig
Please let us know how it works. I was really psyched to learn that the cable co.s HAD to provide a firewire capable box if you ask for one. Psyched, that is until I heard of the alleged bare-bones functionality. Hopefully that information is incorrect.

I'll look through the other threads, but anyone care to comment on the new TV Guide function? Does it provide info for all ATSC and QAM tuned channels, or is the listing based on one's location/provider? Is this another feature like the auto clock set signal sent out via PBS that I have never been able to use in my area (BFE, Minnesota)?

Afergy

06-08-05, 10:39 AM

Can you tell us more about your source equipment?

Have HD Tivo connected through component. HD DVR (Comcast) connected with HDMI to DVI cable. Panaosonic DMR-E80H DVD player via component. Ghosting is becoming more noticeable with almost everything I'm watching. However, not with HD programming.

Once again, I saw in an earlier post you can adjust the service port. Does this have to be done by a technician?

cjlawson

06-08-05, 12:08 PM

Cool. This worked out pretty well.

What is your Tone set to (ie: cool2, cool1, normal, warm1, warm2). I'd been on warm1, which is the default. After using your settings, I moved the tone to normal and it looked even better. I'd guess that's where your's is also.

When in movie mode you can only use warm1, you must have your mode set to standard. I use movie mode for everything as it provides better detail in the dark scenes. Movie mode is setup different in the service menu compared to all other modes. So you if you want better shadow detail then you are stuck with warm1.

UCSB

06-08-05, 12:35 PM

Have HD Tivo connected through component. HD DVR (Comcast) connected with HDMI to DVI cable. Panaosonic DMR-E80H DVD player via component. Ghosting is becoming more noticeable with almost everything I'm watching. However, not with HD programming.

Once again, I saw in an earlier post you can adjust the service port. Does this have to be done by a technician?

Samsung does not want consumers using the service menu and it should not be neccessary. I would call Samsung support.

On the Tivo and Comcast are you sending a 720p signal to the TV, with TV format set to 16:9?

shanec

06-08-05, 02:23 PM

When in movie mode you can only use warm1, you must have your mode set to standard. I use movie mode for everything as it provides better detail in the dark scenes. Movie mode is setup different in the service menu compared to all other modes. So you if you want better shadow detail then you are stuck with warm1.

How do you get to the movie mode part of the service menu? I only saw once place to change the gamma and assumed that was the same gamma for all them modes. I didn't look around much though. The menu is cryptic and I didn't want to break anything.

jlk_250

06-08-05, 02:47 PM

I'll look through the other threads, but anyone care to comment on the new TV Guide function? Does it provide info for all ATSC and QAM tuned channels, or is the listing based on one's location/provider? Is this another feature like the auto clock set signal sent out via PBS that I have never been able to use in my area (BFE, Minnesota)?

I can comment on the HL-R5067W TV Guide On Screen with TWC in the Minneapolis area. Standard analog cable (no set top box or cablecard). In short, I think the TV Guide feature is great! The 67 series tuner is really slow to change channels so I use the TV Guide instead of channel surfing like I used to do. Also when using it to surf (there's a little PIP window as well as the schedule info) it changes channels faster than it does when in normal TV mode. If not for the TV Guide I would be a lot less happy with the TV due to the slow tuner.

Along with the normal cable channels I also am getting PBS-HD, CBS-HD, ABC-HD, and Fox-HD (most of which seem to be standard SD programming broadcast in HD, PBS-HD and some sports being the exceptions). For some reason I'm not getting NBC HD broadcasts. Unfortunately, none of these HD/digital channels appear in the TV Guide listings. I'm not sure if these would show up on the TV Guide if I signed up for TWC digital/HD service and got a cablecard. If anyone can clarify how/why this works with digital cable I'd like to hear it either in this thread, by PM/e-mail, or on a separate thread. I know that with a cablecard I would not get the cable company's equivalent schedule thing (which I think TWC charges for anyway).

My auto clock set worked just fine. It must be keying off the one of the digital channels that I'm getting despite technically having only analog service.

Someone else asked if there are any 100% happy HLRxx67 owners out there. I'm not 100% happy with anything in life, including my HLR. But overall I'm very happy with it and after owning it for a couple of weeks I haven't found any reason to have bought something else instead. Yes, there are audio/video lag issues. Sure, prices are going to come down on these sets. There are some bugs/annoying features that tick me off. If I wanted a bigger one (which I kind of do) I would wait for 1080p models to become commonplace (which they will). But for my needs this set has been a great match and I expect continued happiness for at least 10 years before buying another new TV.

Jon

dunnar

06-08-05, 03:06 PM

Does using a CableCard prohibit one from receiving 5.1 DD?

mshap

06-08-05, 05:25 PM

No. You will get 5.1 DD using a cable card with the digital optical cable running from the TV to your surround sound receiver.

MatthewR

06-08-05, 07:01 PM

i've got a question about DLP's in general... are they affected by magnetic fields like CRTs are? the reason i ask is because i have nothign i can put my set on right now except for 2 huge speakers that i dont' even use... however i don't even want to try because i'd imagine the magnets in the speakers can't be good for the set but i've got to get this thing off the floor.

Matt

MatthewR

06-08-05, 07:41 PM

the speakers will not be on.... purley decritive....

another question.... what are the requirements for hooking up a firewire device to the set... for example if i wanted to try to attatch my laptop to the tv through the firewire port is there software that i could use so i could record from the set... or even better use the set as a display instead of the VGA cable? i've got a widescreen laptop that has a decent video chipset that can display in 720 and 768

man i love messing around with this stuff

please ignore my bad spelling

Matt

SaintsMan

06-08-05, 08:46 PM

How long do the HLR bulbs last and are they going to become cheaper?

I'm thinking about going PLASMA because of the TV life.

MatthewR

06-08-05, 08:50 PM

set is on speakers and looks suprisingly good.... maybe i should mount a piece of cherry to the top and brace the back and leave it on the speakers

Matt

MatthewR

06-08-05, 11:44 PM

i bet i regret not resizing these

<a href='http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/15822441988.jpg&s=x4' target='_blank'><img src='http://x4.putfile.com/6/15822441988-thumb.jpg' alt='Click to enlarge.'></a>

<a href='http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/15822430849.jpg&s=x4' target='_blank'><img src='http://x4.putfile.com/6/15822430849-thumb.jpg' alt='Click to enlarge.'></a>

<a href='http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/15822395453.jpg&s=x4' target='_blank'><img src='http://x4.putfile.com/6/15822395453-thumb.jpg' alt='Click to enlarge.'></a>

Matt

MatthewR

06-08-05, 11:47 PM

ok Y can't i get this right

UCSB

06-09-05, 12:15 AM

MatthewR ... here are working links to your three photos:

PHOTO #1 (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/15822441988.jpg&s=x4)
PHOTO #2 (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/15822430849.jpg&s=x4)
PHOTO #3 (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=6/15822395453.jpg&s=x4)

aircasper

06-09-05, 02:00 AM

There is a whole thread dedicated to Samsung screen smudges. I haven't seen it active for a while so you may need to dig back a few weeks to find it (or do a search). There was much complaining about smudges during the Winter months. They were a problem on the prior HLP and earlier models but were supposedly fixed in the HLRs. However, it is entirely possible that they are still a problem in the HLRs but no-one is noticing them and reporting them due to them not appearing now that we're into Spring and the weather is warmer.

You may be right about the warmer weather. I notice the smudges most when I have the patio door open with cool air blowing across the front of the tv. i'm wondering whether this might eventually go away, or whether it's something that i'll have to worry about on an ongoing basis.

sumsum

06-09-05, 08:00 AM

Ok SAMSUNG fans, i purchased the HLR4667W ( 46 inch one with floating screen ) here's the problem.. my DNIe is OFF by default and there is no way to turn it ON, only feature that exists on it is the DNIE demo, which is completely useless.

http://www.freewebs.com/ipela/HL-R4667W_User_Manual.GIF

Afergy

06-09-05, 09:35 AM

Samsung does not want consumers using the service menu and it should not be neccessary. I would call Samsung support.

On the Tivo and Comcast are you sending a 720p signal to the TV, with TV format set to 16:9?
Yes I have both HD boxes sending a 720P signal. I'll check with Samsung thanks!

MatthewR

06-09-05, 11:08 AM

UCSB thanx! i knew i made those pix too big lol

Matt

conanbarb

06-09-05, 05:16 PM

I've been trolling this site for the past 1.5 years and now I finally get to participate. Here's my first impressions:

DVD Content - Panny DVD-S77 via HDMI to TV with optical audio to Sony STR-DE845 Receiver looks amazing

SD Content - DirecTV/UltimateTV via S-video to TV with composite audio to Sony receiver looks better than expected, but I'm anxious for DirecTV to finally bring HDTV local channels to Phoenix. $11/month for 5 channels that I barely watch is not worth it to me.

PS2 - Haven't tried it yet, but I will tonight.

Issues:

I do have lip sync issues with the DVD Content, but the Panny DVD-S77 does a great job correcting it with it's video delay set at 100ms
I have not noticed lip sync issues with SD Content so far and I hope I never do since I don't feel like dropping another 800 bones for a receiver that handles audio sync.
A totally black screen in 4:3 mode with the black side bars doesn't look too black in comparison, but I don't even notice any black issues when watching content
A little macroblocking with the Panny DVD-S77, but not worth getting worked up about.

These are my impressions out of the box so I imagine it will get even better once I actually calibrate it.

Grogmeister

06-09-05, 08:19 PM

Hello, last night I took possession of my long awaited Samsung DLP HLR5067w. I took it out of the box and plugged it into my Satellite (dish Network). I started receiving a signal and was watching TV in a matter of minutes. The problem is that the picture is terrible. I had a better picture on my 15 year old 19" sony. Am I doing something wrong? The picture was not very crisp, and I seemed to have a delay with parts of the picture, meaning someones head would turn and part of the face would follow a spit second later. Is this "ghosting"? And if so how can i fix it? I am at a loss. any information would be helpful. I do not pretend to know much about electronics, but this tv should be better than this.

agrats84

06-09-05, 08:54 PM

Anyone find any Picture Settings that really capture the TV's purpose?

schaffer970

06-09-05, 09:57 PM

Grogmeister, how are you connecting your dish box to the TV? Make sure you are at least using the S-video connection. No mater what, standard definition (SD) programing will not look like high definition (HD).

Morgreh

06-10-05, 07:36 AM

OK, so I've had my HL-R5067W for a week now.

Here are my impressions:

WOW! This is a BIG upgrade from my 10 year-old Magnavox 27" CRT!

I bought this set from Sears. Over Memorial Day weekend. I had it delivered the following Friday. I'm very happy with the whole thing although, I do wish Sears could have delivered a little quicker, but that's just my impatience. I have seen the price for this identical set for significantly less than I paid at some online dealers, but paying this much for something at an online dealer I've never had any experience with, makes me nervous. Also, for what it's worth, the price I paid was less than $25 more than the TVA Power Buy for this set. It was worth it to me to be able to see/play with the set in person before laying down my cash.

This is my setup:

HL-R5067W
Comcast standard cable
Samsung DVD-HD850 (HDMI)
Sony PS2 (Component)
Philips/Magnavox VCR (Composite)

HD content is VERY nice. Comcast has placed about 6 or 8 of our local channels HD channels on standard cable. My big complaint is, there's not enough HD content out there right now. I'm REALLY regretting allowing the roofers to throw away my outside antenna when they re-roofed the house a couple of years ago. At least it would have given me a few more HD options.

SD content is pretty good too actually. You can obviously tell a difference between HD and SD, but sitting about 15ft back, SD content is definitely acceptable.

DVDs over the HD850 are quite nice. I am using the speakers built into the 5067W with SRS TSXT enabled and while it wouldn't stand up to the scrutiny of a true audiophile, it's working for me. I haven't noticed any significant problems with it. Black levels seem to be nice. I've noticed no blocking. My biggest complaint is the little blue light on the HD850 to tell me it's off. I did make sure to go into the Display Setup menu on the HD850 and set the HDMI resolution to 720p and the Format to RGB-Expand. Reading the HD850 manual would seem to indicate that the defaults Format on this player would not give full color range over HDMI.

PS2 looks VERY good over component. I haven't given this it's FULL test, but I started out with this on composite input and it looked bad and I definitely noticed a lag in keypresses with NBA Live 2002. After putting it on component and playing Madden 2005, I noticed no key lag. I need to go back and try NBA Live 2002 on component and report back. Things that make a big difference. 1) ensure your PS/2 is in 16:9 mode. 2) set texture output to smooth as opposed to its default of standard. As fas as I can tell, you have to reset this setting EVERY time you power on your PS2.

VCR, well, it looks worse than SD input, but I guess I really can't expect much.

Other things: I do see a few rainbows now and then. The TV is quiet. If I stand right next to it and place my head behind it just after I've turned it off, I can hear the color wheel spin down and the fans run for a minute or two, but out in the rest of the room this is inaudible. I have spent some time tweaking my settings, but haven't cracked open the service menu yet.

As of now, my settings look like this:

Contrast: 50
Brightness: 40
Sharpness: 0
Color: 40
Color Tone: Normal

I've made all my changes on the Custom settings and left the others alone for now. I've mostly been trying to get flesh tones to match reality and get colors to look more "natural."

The TV Guide feature is working fine for me. It started picking up info about 48 hours after connecting the TV to the cable. It's actually kind of neat. I don't know how much I'll use it because the channels are not in numeric order, but I have set a couple of reminders for a few programs and they work well. I've also set it up so it can power on my VCR and thus I can schedule recording of TV programs. Looks like it will work pretty well, but I haven't specifically tried that feature yet.

Over all, I'm quite happy with the set. My biggest complaints are that there isn't enough HD content out there and I went a little conservative in size. I'm currently sitting back 15', I have about another 3 feet I can go back. Consequently, I believe I probably could have went with a 56" or maybe even a 61". But the 50" saved me some money and is still quite nice.

All-in-all, the 5067 is a great set. I'm quite pleased.

Thanks for listening.

caswelmo

06-10-05, 08:46 AM

This may be redundant for some, but I thought I would post my CNET review of my TV for anyone who is interested. I've been following the forums for a long time and so I hope my review is an "educated" one, even if it is dumbed down for the CNET crowd.

Here you go:

I purchased the HLR5667w from XXXX on May 24 & received it June 7 (2005, of course). I spent $XXXX for the TV, a 30-day money-back guarantee, and a 5 year warranty. This was a bit pricier than some places, but they were an authorized retailer with excellent service and lots of good referrals.

The television I was using before the Sammy was a cheap 27" CRT that I bought in 1997. I therefore don't have another HDTV set to compare to, but whatever.

My first impression of the Sammy out of the box was that it was HUGE! Given it's size, however, it is amazingly light and easy to move. I got it only the stand all by myself.

My second impression was how crisp & clean the styling was. The screen is surrounded by a black border about 1" wide on all sides. This frames up the screen nicely, especially when watching bright shows with lots of color. The rest of the unit is colored silver and is separated from the screen by a thin gap. It gives the screen a nice floating appearance. The front is uncluttered by buttons or cables, it just looks crisp.

I proceeded to set up the television as follows: 1) DirectTV Tivo box hooked by SVideo directly to tv, R/L RCA for sound; 2) X-Box with HDTV pack hooked directly to TV through component RGB and R/L sound. 3) Terk iHDTV antenna hooked directly to TV through coax. 4) Optical/Digital audio out from TV to my Sony surround sound home theater equipment.

All connections worked the first time and were automatically detected. The Over-The-Air channels were picked up quickly from the Terk antenna and within 10 minutes I had the channels customized to only HDTV channels (I get regular stuff through my DirecTivo).

Before I describe the pictures for each input, I'll digress a moment. I had originally run all audio through the TV before going to my home-theater receiver. The idea was to eliminate any audio lag by allowing the TV to delay the audio if it had to do excessive video processing. This worked, and no lag was present, but I forgot that R/L RCA do not carry the dolby signal through the TV and out the optical output to the receiver. Bummer, but my mistake. So I took optical outs directly from both my XBox & my DirecTivo to my receiver, bypassing the television completely for audio. It worked great and I haven't noticed any lag whatsoever. Whew!

Okay, on to the pictures...

XBox: The xbox outputs a 480p signal for many games and a 480i signal for DVDs. The games (Halo 2) look utterly stunning and is a great improvement over my old setup. The DVD movies are not as crisp as the 480p signal, but that's to be expected. Really, the DVD movies were the "worst" picture I got from any input but they were still quite good. It's most certainly watchable and enjoyable.

DirecTivo: The output is (I think) 480p and looks quite good. I believe the digital nature of the satellite signal makes for very little noise once the TV converts the signal to its native 720p format. I would place the quality of this picture about 75% of the way between the XBox DVD & XBox Game picture, closer to the Game.

OTA, Terk Antenna: This is where the TV can really shine. I get PBS, CBS, ABC, FOX, WB, & something else (I can't remember) in HDTV. TitanTV has a guide that lists HDTV shows and I've been watching a lot lately. The NBA finals last night looked utterly stunning, the PBS nature shows are friggin' fantastic, and sitcoms/series on the networks are about 5 times more enjoyable in HD. I was watching things I would never watch regularly and enjoying them. The non-HD programming is nothing to write home about, but anything in HDTV (either 720p or 1080i) is incredible. I can't say enough.

I'm sitting 11 feet from the TV and I have the TV sitting on a 22" heigh cabinet. My viewing angle is from about 6" below the center of the screen. This works great and I would consider the 56" screen optimal from this distance. Honestly, however, it doesn't matter where you sit in the room. You get a great picture anywhere.

Glare is greatly reduced in these sets. The ambient light isn't a problem at all. If you really want the colors to pop, you need to darken up the room, but the TV is much better than my old 27" in bright environment.

I don't really have any negatives. I could use another HDMI input in the future perhaps. Some people might see rainbows, but I haven't and neither have the other 10 people that have watched TV with me.

The bottom line: Wow!

Still Thinking

06-10-05, 02:23 PM

I am new to this and may be asking this in the wrong area, but here goes. I am looking at buying the HLR5067 and I have found it for a great price at Digital 1234. Has anyone used their services and if so are they reputable?

GBFreek

06-10-05, 02:41 PM

caswelmo

06-10-05, 06:24 PM

Fantastic review!! Wish we would get more like this. Welcome to the boards!!!

Few questions:

1 - Do you feel you went "too big" with the 56" or do you feel 50" would have been to small?

2 - Do you see a lot of "noise" on the SD picture or digital aritifacts when you get closer than say 10ft??

3 - On a scale from 1 to 10, how would you rate the DirectTivo SD reception? Are most channels equal - or does, say, HGTV look worse than TNT, etc?

4 - Do you see any pincushion effect when you watch 4:3, unstretched? i.e., do you see straight lines where the picture ends or are they bowed?

5 - What made you choose the HLR5667W over the HL5677W??

Thanks and again, welcome to the boards.

Thanks for the welcome! I'll just go right through your questions:

1. I think 56" was the right size, 50" would have been a tad too small. Not that 50" would be bad, it just isn't as... well, big. Any bigger and I think the imperfections in non-HD signals would be annoying. 56" seems to be the sweet spot for my 11 foot viewing distance.

2. This is very dependent on the signal source and even varies from channel to channel from the same source. Right now, as I'm typing this on my couch, I'm watching a Seinfeld episode. The noise is visible from 11 ft, but only if you're looking for it. At 8 to 9 ft it becomes noticable all the time. I would say the picture is annoying at around 5 or 6 feet. But then, I won't be watching Seinfeld from 6 ft, so no biggie. I do have to mention that I play Halo 2 (480p) from 7 or 8 feet and it looks sweet.

Now, using this as my basis, I'd say that the newer the show is the better it looks from my DirecTV system. The latest sitcoms probably buy a couple more feet of "barely noticable" distance. Using my 480i DVD player (It's an XBox, and soon to be replaced) I would say the signal is comparable to the Seinfeld episode. Regardless, I would say the picture certainly looks better on my Sammy than what I've seen on comparable sized SD projection systems.

3. I guess I already answered this somewhat, but let me flip through the channels real quick... Okay, I would say the local channels (except local news), cable news channels, espn, & HBO look the best. Most other channels are similar to my Seinfeld experience, with the older shows looking a tad worse (part of this might just be the older taping methods or something). I pulled up a very old movie on TCM and it looked pretty decent, definitely watchable.

If my old 27" was a 3, then the DirecTivo SD reception is a 6 and my HDTV OTA stuff is a 9. 10 is reserved for real life!

4. I see no pincushion effect. In addition, the blacks are black enough that the sidebars on the 4:3 unstretched setting isn't annoying at all. You forget all about them. It's also kind of funny, I enjoy the way commercials use that extra screen real-estate. They place the pictures with differing amount of black border and then put text & stuff in the extra room. I've been forced to watch commercials now that I'm watching OTA instead of Tivo sometimes.

5. VGA input, newer chip, 25% higher contrast ratio, Cinema Smooth, and in general newer features (it seemed like). Since the 77 was based on the 74 I felt like it was just a stop-gap measure to get to the next round of sets, i.e. the 67 series. Plus, I kind of liked the floating screen design. I didn't wait for the 68 series because there aren't really any 1080p sources right now and I wanted to save the money.

Hope that helps. Ask more questions if you'd like.

Souren

06-11-05, 05:47 PM

Just got the 50in HL-R5067W on Friday and after a day of playing with it I'm very happy with the purchase. I want to thank all the members here for taking the time to repeatedly answer the same questions over and over again. I got the Samsung stand a few days prior to receiving the TV and putting it together wasn't to much of a hassle, took me about an hour, and I only needed the included hex tool for assembly. The entertainment center in my house is built into the wall so I only had an opening for the TV of 50in wide to work with. This unit fit the bill perfectly being 46.5in wide.

After everything was connected I turned it on for the first time and switched to the Svideo input for DTv and was pretty surprised by how good it looked, I wasn't expecting much from standard definition inputs. Switched over the the Xbox connected through component and popped in Madagascar and was extremely impressed with how good it looked, I hadn't gone into any of the settings yet but the default was outstanding. My only mistake was I had the volume up to loud and my 9 year old daughter who'd I bribed away to her bedroom with a new Nintendo DS game before I started hooking up the TV heard the game playing and, well, 3 hours latter I got to get back to playing with the new TV.

Tried out a DVD next, just a basic JVC connected to component and again I was very pleased with the picture without any changes to the defaults. We watched Scooby Do 2 and I played with the different settings and found Standard to be a bit better over Movie because of the lush overstated colors of the characters and settings. I prefered Movie when watching the Haunted Mansion since the lighting is much darker and I could see more detail in that mode than in Standard. The Dynamic mode seemed to be only useful with LOTS of abiant lighting in the room and I think I'd only use it to watch the news from across the dining room while having dinner.

I'll be getting the HD package shortly so I'm really looking forward to seeing what the set is capable of. I probably won't spend to much time DVE since I'm planning on getting a good ISF guy to do a proper calibration. I had a 40in Widescreen Toshiba back in '99 calibrated by a very good ISF qualified person and couldn't believe the difference in picture quality, and that's after I had spent about 5 hours using DVD Video Essentials calibrating it myself. So I'll let the tech guy have all the fun this time, I'd rather spend the time getting my butt handed to me in Super Monkey Ball Deluxe by my little girl :)

Thanks again for everyone's posts, really made the decision easier and I knew what the shortcoming could be so I wouldn't set my expectations too high.

If anyone is interested I've got a few pics of my setup at:

sourenfl textamerica com <<replace the spaces with periods since I haven't posted enough to place an url in the message.

Well it sounds like Tropical Storm Alrene has about blown through, had 40-50mph winds most of the day so I had the TV unpluged just to be safe. Time to plug it back in and start enjoying it somemore.

GBFreek

06-11-05, 11:24 PM

BJG2005

06-13-05, 01:18 PM

I just got my samsung hl-r5667w and am very happy with it.

I've seen some discussions of lamps and such (one where someone went thru several bulbs due to powering on/off their set through their cable box). Which makes me wonder if I would be better served with a UPS instead of a line conditioner. This way, if I lose power while the unit it is on, the lamp will have a chance to cool down (from the fan).

Is anyone else using a ups? If so, what make and model?

Are people using line conditioners, if so, what make and model?

Finally, does anyone have the power requirement for the 5667? I'll need it for whatever I order. I don't have the manual with me, and the samsung site doesn't list it on the tech sheet.

Thank you.

Mike in Virginia

06-13-05, 01:43 PM

Here's a theoretical reply to the question about ups's and power conditioners. It's theoretical because I'm just setting up my HT in a new apartment, where I ran a dedicated 20 amp circuit to the wall behind my rack. Since I've got a presumably clean line, I figured I don't need conditioning.

But since I'm going to have devices that don't like power being removed quickly--like a DVR with a hard disk drive--I'm getting a UPS. But I'm getting a UPS like I use for my PC for $150 rather than the kind available for HT's with 3 or 4 kinds of outlets for different kinds of equipment, for $600 and up. BTW, I believe that I won't run my amp through it because of its occasional heavy draws, but everything else, including my future 1080p Samsung, will be powered through the 1.5 kw UPS.

subwoofer

06-14-05, 10:14 AM

If you purchase a DLP tv, is it worth getting a power strip incase the system abruptly shuts down?

Mike in Virginia

06-14-05, 11:07 AM

If you purchase a DLP tv, is it worth getting a power strip in case the system abruptly shuts down?
A power strip by itself? I'm not sure why that would help anything. A power strip with a built-in surge suppressor might help when the power comes back on by reducing any spikes that sometimes occur when "mains power" is turned back on. But I don't know how a power strip with a surge suppressor would help much at the time the power goes down.

On the other hand, a UPS would keep the TV on until you could shut it down normally. Does anyone know what the "off" button does on a DLP? Does a fan stay on for a while? Are any of the electronics shut down in a particular order?

kjongsma

06-14-05, 01:10 PM

Does anyone know what the "off" button does on a DLP? Does a fan stay on for a while? Are any of the electronics shut down in a particular order? As with a lot of electronics these days, the 'Off' button really just puts the system in a 'Standby' mode. The fan runs until the lamp temp drops below a certain temp threshold. The processor board continues to run as it extracts time and program information from the digital datastream. It also runs a timer function. The only thing that gets really shut off is the lamp assembly.

A UPS might smooth out any surges/gaps if your power is really dirty. It would also allow the lamp to cool down a little faster in a power out situation, but how many times are you going to see those conditions?

varkeast

06-14-05, 01:43 PM

Just received my hlr5067 a week ago. Its fantastic. My frist HDTV and i love it. I have seen the occasional Lip Synch, but it is def due to the source. Only saw it bad last night on a local HD news show, 1-2 words off. All other channels synched fine. I have my hd set top box hooked via dvi-hdmi to TV and optical to receiver.

I do have a question though. How can I get my color/tone settings down. I used AVIA to get brightness and contrast and color, but the tone is still fairly off on the color bars test using the blue filter. Is there any way to adjust this to get it to line up? Using a THX optimizer on a Movie they looked fine, and it gave me totally different color settings. AVIA gave me a setting like 87 and the THX gave me something below 40.

What settings are other people using?
Right now I am using Standard mode with gamma set to 0 in the service menu:
contrast:90
brightness:35
sharpness:10
color:75

SuperActionGuy

06-15-05, 10:31 AM

Hi all,

First time poster, long time reader. I've had my 6167W for about a week now and I'm still deciding on whether or not the PQ is worth the price. I did some initial tweaking yesterday before the NBA game. I've set gamma to 0, currently in Movie mode with sharpness set to 0 and DNR NR to Off. I think the PQ is good but, it seems to lack the "pop" that other DLP sets have. I like the Samsung design and the user interface, the inputs, everything is great but, I'm torn on the PQ. Also, I seem to be susceptible to the RBE that's been mentioned in other posts which is annoying me. I'll give it another week or two before I make my final decision. If there are any other "tweaks" or changes that could be recommened to me to help make the picture "pop" a little more I'd appreciate it! Also, if anyone else has a 6167W and can access the service mode for me and report back the default value for Vertical Alignment I would appreciate it!

Thanks

subwoofer

06-15-05, 09:54 PM

donb1948

06-15-05, 10:58 PM

Has anyone here tested the THX Optimizer screen that has the white circle? I've heard this is the best test for seeing rainbows. I have been thinking about going to Tweeter with my Star Wars DVD and trying it.
I saw a post from someone a couple of days ago who essentially guaranteed that if you've never seen RBE before, you'd see it with this test. Thus, I'd question the pattern's appropriateness and usefulness in regard to RBE. What does it mean (prove) if someone who never sees RBE with "normal" viewing material sees RBE with this test. To me, it means that certain things (particularly, this pattern) should not be viewed on a dlp set. But, what has that got to do with anything else. I think of this as more of a curiosity that a source of useful information.

subwoofer

06-15-05, 11:03 PM

I've heard that watching Black and White movies are bad for DLPs. This true?

kjongsma

06-15-05, 11:17 PM

I saw a post from someone a couple of days ago who essentially guaranteed that if you've never seen RBE before, you'd see it with this test. Thus, I'd question the pattern's appropriateness and usefulness in regard to RBE. What does it mean (prove) if someone who never sees RBE with "normal" viewing material sees RBE with this test. Right. In effect, you are sensitizing yourself to a problem that doesn't exist. Why would you want to do that?

All consumer products are a balance of technology vs cost. It just so happens that a spinning color wheel is the most cost effective way of building large screen high def monitors. While colors wheels do create rainbow edges under certain conditions, the fact is that unless you go looking for it, the majority of consumers will not see RBE. That's not to take anything away from those naturally suseptable to it or profrssionals whos job it is to look for it, but to intentionally look for it when you don't need to?

MatthewR

06-16-05, 09:10 AM

Right. In effect, you are sensitizing yourself to a problem that doesn't exist. Why would you want to do that?

All consumer products are a balance of technology vs cost. It just so happens that a spinning color wheel is the most cost effective way of building large screen high def monitors. While colors wheels do create rainbow edges under certain conditions, the fact is that unless you go looking for it, the majority of consumers will not see RBE. That's not to take anything away from those naturally suseptable to it or profrssionals whos job it is to look for it, but to intentionally look for it when you don't need to?

i wasn't looking for it but i see it all the time. and once i knew what it was i feel like it got worse. ignorance is bliss. Don't go looking for rainbows

Matt

subwoofer

06-16-05, 12:05 PM

I'm not going to seek out rainbows but I would hate to get a 5067 and be watching a movie and see them. I've just heard that black and white movies tend to show rainbows a lot. Not that I would be viewing this type of material but there are always one or two scenes in some movies that are shot in black and white and I would hate for those scenes to be ruined.

I've seen a video online where a guy shows the rainbow effect and it was pretty nasty. He took a scene and moved the camera back and forth. As for being in the store and trying to move my head back and forth, I have not seen any. I asked the sales rep at Tweeter if he sees them and he said yes but not too often.

vspectra

06-16-05, 12:15 PM

How do DLP's get raimbows? Is it a production problem, or do they occur over time?

kjongsma

06-16-05, 12:51 PM

How do DLP's get rainbows? Is it a production problem, or do they occur over time? Neither. Its a side effect of using a color wheel and the way your brain processes the image data. Some people are more sensitive to the effect than others, and it also appears to be possible to be sensitized to the effect. That is, once you are shown the effect, you subconsciously look for it from that point forward.

Bottom line, if this is an issue for you, you shouldn't be buying a DLP set.

cjlawson

06-16-05, 01:01 PM

I have a HLR6167w and I see rainbows on it. I also notice the SDE on LCDs. I see a rainbow maybe once a hour if that often. I see the SDE on LCDs the whole time I am watching them. I love my tv and would not trade for anything else.

The rainbows are nothing like that video.

When I first got my tv I went looking for Rainbows and saw them a lot. However when I sit back and just enjoy the beautiful picture I barley ever see them. It is not a distraction at all.

falsedawn

06-16-05, 01:28 PM

How do DLP's get raimbows? Is it a production problem, or do they occur over time?

As I understand it, the DLP uses a color wheel rotating in the lamp's white light. The color wheel is composed of segments of various colors, so that a complete rotation of the wheel allows an image to be assembled of its constituent hues. If an image is not moving on the screen, the image is assembled normally. But if the image is moving across the screen fast enough (or if you move you eyes side to side), the various hues are not assembled directly on top of one another because the image has moved slightly by the time each segment of the color wheel passes the stream of white light from the lamp. Normally the eye's vision persistence compensates for this effect (images do not fade immediately, an effect you notice most with a bright light at night). But some people are more sensitive and see a smear of color (a rainbow) at the edges of moving images on the screen.

donb1948

06-16-05, 01:35 PM

Sardaan

06-16-05, 02:18 PM

I received my 5667W via Amazon.com roughly 10 days ago. I have been very pleased with the set so far. I have done some minor calibrations but I have not set down with my Avia disc yet to do more in depth calibration. I plan on having someone professionally calibrate the TV at some point in the near future.

Today Brighthouse came and installed a cable card. The installation took roughly 20 minutes. The installer told me that he is one of the only techs for Brighthouse that installs the cable cards and that he had done well over 200 installations. The card has only been in for roughly 3 hours but it is working great! Picture quality on the HD channels is excellent, I have no early complaints surrounding the cards. The service tech told me of all the cable cards installed he has only had 3 come back due the users wanting to get PPV and VOD services again.

subwoofer

06-16-05, 02:25 PM

I know this is the wrong thread for this but what do Screen Door Effects look like exactly? Besides looking like what they are named. Any links for this?

thanks

UCSB

06-16-05, 03:50 PM

I know this is the wrong thread for this but what do Screen Door Effects look like exactly? Besides looking like what they are named. Any links for this?

thanks

Here is a thread on the topic with some great photos of the effect:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=545314&highlight=screen+door+effect

subwoofer

06-16-05, 04:00 PM

UCSB

06-16-05, 04:23 PM

from what I gathered, both effects are so minor that only someone moving around in their seat or someone sitting 6 inches from the screen with see both effects.

I've heard the best "natural" way to see rainbows on a DLP is to sit on a couch and look down at a laptop and then to quickly look up at the tv again. I believe someone on this thread had this problem with the xx67 series. Anyone else verify this? I know I will be using a laptop with my new DLP. Thank you wireless internet

The HLRxx67W models do NOT have SDE because of the DLP chip / pixel pattern.

Rapid head or eye movements while watching a DLP set may allow you to see RBE. But, some advice ... don't. Training yourself to see RBE if you are planning on buying a DLP is probably not a good thing to do.

Mark Oliver

06-16-05, 09:37 PM

Any thread concerning the changes from the HLP to HLR's?

donb1948

06-16-05, 10:05 PM

Any thread concerning the changes from the HLP to HLR's?
The definitive source of info for comparing HLP's & HLR's is Post #1 of the "Samsung 2005 DLP HDTV Discussion --- HLRxxxxW Models" thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=4954868&&#post4954868

dbwhite

06-17-05, 12:03 AM

As I understand it, the DLP uses a color wheel rotating in the lamp's white light. The color wheel is composed of segments of various colors, so that a complete rotation of the wheel allows an image to be assembled of its constituent hues. If an image is not moving on the screen, the image is assembled normally. But if the image is moving across the screen fast enough (or if you move you eyes side to side), the various hues are not assembled directly on top of one another because the image has moved slightly by the time each segment of the color wheel passes the stream of white light from the lamp. Normally the eye's vision persistence compensates for this effect (images do not fade immediately, an effect you notice most with a bright light at night). But some people are more sensitive and see a smear of color (a rainbow) at the edges of moving images on the screen.

Like in Zeno's paradoxes concerning motion, while a DLP displays moving images, within any frame of the moving image there is no motion. Each frame is a still image which the TV takes 16ms to display. During this 16 ms, even a 9000 rpm color wheel will rotate 2.5 times. If the wheel has six colors (2 each RGB), each color will be in front of the mirrors five times. I don't know the speed of the mirror movement, but the mirrors move fast enough to probably produce 256 intensities of any primary color in the color wheel. As you say, the eye and brain reassemble this intermixed stream of varying colors and intensities into a pixel of a single color.

If rapidly moving images on the screen induce rainbows, it is because the eye is moving rapidly to follow an object within the image. The cause is always the same, the different color pulses for an image strike different areas of the retina due to retina movement.

Don

subwoofer

06-17-05, 12:18 AM

It depends on the source material (bright objects on dark background) but looking down at a laptop or remote and back at the screen can induce rainbows. So can looking up or off to the side and back again. Based on what I've read, its all about quickly moving your eyes relative to the screen which causes your less sensitive peripheral vision to see the image and be unable to reconcile the sequential color components as quickly and as well as your primary vision. Btw, this same subject comes up over and over again every few days in new and existing threads with much the same explanations provided each time.

Oh I know there's plenty of threads on this but this is a suitable place to discuss this since I plan on getting a 5067 soon (possibly next month after a vacation). I tried seeing rainbows a natural way and it didn't happen so I am happy. I've asked other people who are just normal tv watchers and they didn't see him. Sounds like you have to be a pro with HDTVs to see them but sometimes it seems that anyone can notice them.

Tough call getting an HDTV. Help me! :)

shrikedoa

06-17-05, 11:07 AM

I was never able to see rainbows while viewing the dlps in the store, but once my HLR5067 arrived, I saw them almost immediately. Now I see them constantly. I suspect I have very "fast" vision, as I was also very sensitive to frame-rate distance in 3D pc games like Quake. But I think they are preventable with a little self-training.

The trigger to make them appear is a large eye movement, especially if you look away from the screen. Just wiggling your eyes back and forth doesn't seem to cause it. It seems like your eye is snapshotting that last instance, and since the image is build progressively as the wheel speens, you're seeing just a few of the colors uncombined.

I found you can get the same effect looking at a spinning ceiling fan. Looking with regular eye movement just shows a blur. But if you look and then quickly jerk your eyes away, you will actually see the blades frozen in place.

The solution, at least for me, is to avoid fast eye movements away from the screen. Just relax and watch the movie. Backlighting the tv or low ambient room lighting seems to help as well.

SuperActionGuy

06-17-05, 06:05 PM

SuperActionGuy

06-17-05, 06:17 PM

My other question for users of the xx67W series is, are there any recommended settings for these DLP's yet? I.e., sharpness = 20, contrast = ? Mode = Movie

Just curious...

UCSB

06-17-05, 06:22 PM

Is there someone here who could help me figure out the default SM values for a 6167W? I may have accidentally changed one or two of them whilst trying to navigate through the SM to reduce gamma from 2 to 0.

Thanks

There is a thread in the RPTV forum that lists every 67 series service menu setting for the HDMI input. It might take a littel searching to find it.

prg

06-17-05, 06:25 PM

Samsung replaced my problematic HLN507w with a HLR5667w today. I have been trying to access the service menu by the method for the 507 (melody off, power-mute-1-8-2) with no success. Has something changed? Appreciate any help.

kjongsma

06-17-05, 06:26 PM

prg

06-17-05, 06:29 PM

Sorry, I left the final power off the sequence, but have been trying that.

kjongsma

06-17-05, 06:51 PM

Sorry, I left the final power off the sequence, but have been trying that.Works on my HLR4667W... :(

SuperActionGuy

06-17-05, 06:54 PM

I found it, unfortunately it doesn't have the default values for the 6167W...

SuperActionGuy

06-17-05, 06:55 PM

There is a thread in the RPTV forum that lists every 67 series service menu setting for the HDMI input. It might take a littel searching to find it.

I found it, unfortunately, it doesn't have the default values for the 6167W model...

UCSB

06-17-05, 07:12 PM

I found it, unfortunately, it doesn't have the default values for the 6167W model...

You may need to take them from the Samsung service manual. Perhaps one of the ISF calibrators can point you in the right direction.

htwaits

06-17-05, 07:14 PM

You may need to take them from the Samsung service manual. Perhaps one of the ISF calibrators can point you in the right direction.
I don't think they are the same from set to set.

UCSB

06-17-05, 07:21 PM

I don't think they are the same from set to set.

Interesting ... are you saying that the service menu defaults are unique to an individual set? That is, the set is calibrated at the factory and shipped with it's own settings? I never realized that.

htwaits

06-17-05, 07:56 PM

Interesting ... are you saying that the service menu defaults are unique to an individual set? That is, the set is calibrated at the factory and shipped with it's own settings? I never realized that.
That's the impression I've gotten from reading messages from HLM, HLN, and HLP owners. Most of the settings are probably the same.

vlat89

06-17-05, 11:12 PM

Hey, I've been reading for a few days and haven't seen much of this problem.

I have been the happy (for the most part) owner of Sammy's HLR5067W 50" for about 14 days now. It's my first DLP and it is spectacular. The picture is incredible and HD TV is awesome.

BUT...
When I hook up my xbox(component) I see a bit of a delay from when I push a button, till when the screen acts. It is very small but I can notice it cause I play MVP baseball and the pitching meters are sensitive. Seriously, it's like only 0.5 seconds, but it is there. I think some people are reporting this set as lag free but they are just not looking close enough. Please give me feedback and let me know if I'm the only one. I would hate to have to take the set back but I will if I can't find a solution.

shrktank

06-18-05, 03:50 AM

CJ: When I go to the menu to change the digital out to Dolby Digital, the seletion on the menu is greyed out and I am not able to access this option. Am I doing something wrong or could this be a problem. Just got the set today and still tinkering

UCSB

06-18-05, 01:47 PM

I'm curious about how screen size is affecting the brightness setting that people are using. If it is convenient for you, please post your model number, screen size, input, and brightness setting. For example, HLR5067W, 50", HDMI, 60 setting. I'm trying to investigate how screen size and rated brightness affect the settings that people are using.

htwaits

06-18-05, 03:08 PM

I'm trying to investigate how screen size and rated brightness affect the settings that people are using.
HLP5063 (firmware 1035) callibrated mid afternoon with bambo curtains closed. The room was dim but not dark.

Standard, Warm1, Expand, DigitalNR ON, DNIe OFF, Sharpness 0.

DVI (HTPC TheaterTek):

Contrast: 50
Brightness: 54
Color: 36

HDMI (Comcast 6200)

Contrast: 75
Brightness: 45
Color: 50

Component (Sony non-progressive DVD):

Contrast: 90
Brightness: 45
Color: 50

ringo64

06-19-05, 02:41 AM

I finally bought this (BB - with Rewards, free delivery and free Cox HD for a year - made it very competitive). I've had it for three days and here's what I think:

The good:
- PQ is awesome. DVD's looks great , even in Svideo.
- SD/analog. I had low expectations but I'm pleasantly surprised with the PQ. HD will be installed in a few days; it will be great but I hope the SD is as good as it is with my current box.

The not so good:
- Xbox lag. My son plays MVP Baseball 2005 and noticed it right away. I was aware this would a problem ahead of time through other posts. It was connected via Svideo so I got the Component cables. Enabling both 480p and 720p did help things but he still sees the lag but it's not too big of a deal. Haven't tried many other games and the lag is limited to this one so far.
- Scan lines. Grayish bars move from the bottom to the top , even on DVD's. My DVD player is hooked up only to SVideo so hopefully the HDMI connection will help. However no one else sees them and they don't really bother me.
- The green seems to be strong at times and the few color settings I've changed haven't helped. Hopefully Avia will.
- More component and/or HDMI inputs would be good. Once you look at content with the higher resolutions, you want everything set up that way.

The bad:
- Not much. I wish there was a picture mode button instead of going into the menu.
- Doing away with DNIE being an option to turn off was a dumb thing to take away, but with the PQ I'm getting I'm pretty happy so I guess it's not a big deal.

I highly recommend this set. I read many many postings and decided to take the plunge once the HLR was available (and when our new media furniture arrived).

Any help with the Xbox lag problem is appreciated. Thanks to all for sharing their experiences...it's been a huge help in making a such a big purchase.

Amphiaraus

06-19-05, 07:36 PM

Hi everyone; I've been lurking here for a couple months, and decided to register because someone on an Xbox forum, who just got an HLR 4667 (my own is on its way to me right now), said he had a productive conversation with someone at Samsung, who told him to connect his Xbox to Component 1 and to use the preset "GAME" for that input, which (according to the person at Samsung) disables some of the processing (DNIe, maybe?!). The guy posting this said it had almost fixed the problem, and certainly made it much, much better.

I hope this helps! I'm hoping it will help me, too, when mine comes!

ringo64

06-20-05, 01:11 AM

That's what helped in my case. After using the Xbox on SVideo, I went to Component (2, not 1) and chose GAME. I also made sure to select 480p and 720p in the Xbox setup menu (that seemed to make a difference...I initially forgot to do that after hooking up the Component inputs). Still some lag but my son doesn't even mention the lag anymore so it seems to be a minor issue.

Does anyone know if there is actually any processing differences between the input selections (STB, TV, DVD, etc.)? I hadn't considered that before but perhaps there is.

MatthewR

06-20-05, 06:53 AM

jlk_250

06-20-05, 07:35 AM

Does anyone know if there is actually any processing differences between the input selections (STB, TV, DVD, etc.)? I hadn't considered that before but perhaps there is.

Are you talking about the "mode" button on the top of the remote? I have assumed that all that did was allow the remote to control other devices. No change to the TV at all. I'd be surprised if the remote even sent out a signal to the TV when changing modes.

Jon

Sardaan

06-20-05, 07:47 AM

does anyone have their set on a stand that is around 23"? i found a bush stand at best buy that is pretty nice looking and fairly inexpensive that has all the cubby's i want but it is 23" high and i'm worried that from my recliner that will be too high up

Matt

I have a HLR5667W on a 22" stand and I do not feel that it is to high. My primary viewing area is 11'-12' away. It is not the ideal viewing height, but more than acceptable. If you are hardcore it could be to high.

bhchan

06-20-05, 12:48 PM

Ferdinand, i suggest you read the forum rules before posting.

scherer326

06-20-05, 01:36 PM

vandu

06-20-05, 02:11 PM

I just got this tv and was wondering how come when I go into the settings menu on my STB (SA 8300HD) it has 1080i, 480p, and 480i checked and not 720. Shoudn't 720 be checked because it is the native for this tv. Am I doing something wrong. I am using an HDMI cable running from the STB to the tv. Please help.

Also, anyone who HAS this tv please provide me with good settings. Thanks.

scherer326, If 720p is not offered in the 8300HD menue you will need to go into the the setup wizzard (advanced settings) for the 8300HD. If you don't know how to do it you can download the user guide from the SFA web site (see page 5 in the user guide).

CoolDog

06-20-05, 03:51 PM

UCSB

06-20-05, 03:58 PM

I apologize if this was asked earlier but after reading the first 10-12 pages I just scanned through the rest.

I was looking at the 5667 (possibly going to purchase a 5067) the other day at a local retailer when I noticed a poor picture during their demo. Knowing how they do their demo feeds, I asked a salesman if they had a DVD player that they could hook up to the TV. After hooking up the DVD and starting National Treasure, I noticed something that was very discouraging. During the shot of the Washington Monument I could see what I can only describe as ghosting. It was not the rainbow effect as it seemed to be greyscale. It was like there was a translucent mirror image of the monument to the left side of the original. It was faded but definately noticeable. After seeing this, I also noticed it a few other places that were showing objects (capitol building, parts of the actors depending on the background).

Have any of the owners noticed something like this? Could it have been the DVD itself (they hooked up two different DVD players and it was evident on both)? I realize it could be a problem just because it is a display unit, but that wouldn't bode well for the longevity of the TV either. I was thinking about waiting for the 68 series but unfortunately I think the 56" may be too large for my living room.

Any help would be appreciated.

Ghosting has been reported by some owners and earlier in the thread there were some excellent pictures posted of the problem. If you buy the 5067, buy a DVD upconverting DVD player with a HDMI output and you will not see any ghosting.

CoolDog

06-20-05, 04:02 PM

Ghosting has been reported by some owners and earlier in the thread there were some excellent pictures posted of the problem. If you buy the 5067, buy a DVD upconverting DVD player with a HDMI output and you will not see any ghosting.

Thank you for the quick reply. I will search around for the threads you spoke of.

scherer326

06-20-05, 04:27 PM

can someone please post settings to get the best possible HD quality. I just got the HL-R4667 today.

contrast?
brightness?
color?
sharpness?
temp?

ringo64

06-20-05, 04:47 PM

Jon, I'm talking about where you select the input in the menu on the remote, not telling your remote what device to control (the buttons on the top).

It gives you options such as STB, DVD, GAME, etc. For example, you can assign input Svideo 1 to display what it is, such as DVD or GAME. It looks like they're just names, but I suppose it's possible that it optimizes some settings based on what device you've told it was connected to.

Amphiaraus

06-20-05, 04:50 PM

That's what the Samsung person seemed to be saying to the source on the Xbox forum. And the source seems to have found the results to be good. Makes one wonder whether selecting GAME for everything might clear up lip-synch problems, too. . .

kjongsma

06-20-05, 05:05 PM

can someone please post settings to get the best possible HD quality? Since the settings are likely personal preference, set and room specific, asking someone to post the "best" settings is not going to generate very useful answers. If there were magic numbers, wouldn't Samsung use them for the default?

scherer326

06-20-05, 05:17 PM

just wondering if there was an average setting area that people use.

kjongsma

06-20-05, 05:34 PM

just wondering if there was an average setting area that people use.The default vaues are pretty good for me. Play with the different modes ("standard", "movie", etc) and see what looks good to you. "Dynamic" overdrives the lamp for showroom use and reduces the bulb life, so unless you are a very bright room, you probably don't want to use that. You can also play with the differenct color temperatures.

SaintsMan

06-21-05, 02:15 AM

Anyone NOT have any lag on videogames???

thegoldenhand

06-21-05, 02:53 AM

Amphiaraus

06-21-05, 07:00 AM

Anyone NOT have any lag on videogames???

Again, I don't have my R4667 yet, but there seems to be reliable information that running 480p games through the component connection and choosing the preset GAME pretty much (but perhaps not completely) eliminates lag. I haven't heard any reports about this solution with respect to 480i games.

shrikedoa

06-21-05, 08:19 AM

I'm seeing some lag with a PS2 connected via component to an HLR 5067. We have a DDR pad and my wife is a wiz at the game. But the first time she played in the new tv she could tell immediately there was a delay. As DDR is insanely sensitive to timing, I'm not surprised she picked up on it.

Tonight I plan to try the GAME preset mentioned above and report back any results.

WilliamPC

06-21-05, 09:31 AM

I have had my HLR5667 for about 2 weeks. I got it straight from samsung because of the notorious smudge problem.

A few comments and a question.

1) Whats up with the TV Guide feature? I use DirecTV so it has no use for me and I have stupid TV Guide logo on my remote.

2) Seems to me that I can turn on/off the DNR feature. Will double check later.

3) I didn't notice any slider panel on my remote. I was ticked off that some controls were missing. Im going to have to check that out to see if I was a total dunce head and missed it. I never use that remote since I use my Harmony/Logitec remote now.

4) Why still no ability to PIP two digital components? I cant get me TV to PIP DirecTV and Xbox. DTV is through HDMI and XBOX is component switched through my HK AVR230.

Question: Right now I have all my component video devices ran through my HK AVR230. Is this bad? Would I get better picture quality, say with my DVD, if I ran it directly into the TV? I thought I read somewhere in this forum about the TV upconverting the signal with DVD. If it does upconvert, does it do it through a component switching device like my A/V receiver? I have my SIR-TS160 DirecTV receiver ran through HDMI since I watch 75% DTV. Should I switch this around and use DVI-HDMI from my Panasonic DVD and use component for the SIR-TS160?? Would I notice any differences?

Thanks

Bill

EDIT- I just checked out the Digital NR and its selectible on my TV. I can turn it on and off on both HDMI and Component. But why do they call one Digital NR and the other DNIe Demo? I checked the remote too. Duh, never noticed the slide panel. Guess I should have read the manual. Oh, and I like the My Control Control too.

shrikedoa

06-21-05, 09:44 AM

You can turn off DNR. You can't turn off DNie.

WilliamPC

06-21-05, 09:48 AM

What is the difference. They sound like the same thing to me. Im going to research this one over at Samsung.com. I think they are the same thing.

EDIT- My bad, they are two different things apparently. So that puts me in the camp of why having it not selectible and why waste a remote button on just the demo?

I hope someone can address my questions though. Dont want to start a new thread and then get yelled at for not posting it here.....when I did. :)

You can turn off DNR. You can't turn off DNie.

carl033

06-21-05, 12:49 PM

does anyone have their set on a stand that is around 23"? i found a bush stand at best buy that is pretty nice looking and fairly inexpensive that has all the cubby's i want but it is 23" high and i'm worried that from my recliner that will be too high up

Matt

I went with the Samsung 46X3 at 19" high. It puts the HLR4667W at perfect height for my lounge chairs. Going price for the stand is about $200. It also will accomodate 50" and 56" DLPs, as it has inserts that widen the stand.

Amphiaraus

06-21-05, 12:59 PM

Call me stubborn, or even slow, but do I have any chance at a good viewing experience from a Panasonic 480p DVD player through component input on the R4667? I really want to run all my video through my Onkyo 602 Receiver, and I don't want to have to deal with HDMI except maybe for my cable STB.

Am I fooling myself? It seems like some people in this thread have reported good PQ from 480p DVD through component. . .

Zack Allen

06-21-05, 01:38 PM

unikorn wrote, in part, regarding the rainbow effect: "To see the effect, just pop in a DVD that has a stationery white line or white circle...."

If you have the X-Men 2 DVD, rainbows can be seen (at least I saw them) embedded in the light grey walls of the White House just prior to the scene within the oval office.

Try that if you are anxious to see rainbows.

jwr

06-21-05, 02:00 PM

I had the same porblem with the service menue with mine. I had to turn it off, and let it shut completely down, then hit mute 1-8-2 power, and it worked just fine

jwr

06-21-05, 02:07 PM

I have the 5067 with a cable card and a Denon 3910 connected by HDMI and Denon 3805 connected by IR. I had the lip sync problem when watching DVD's. No problem with the cable card. If I switch the sound mode to speech or standard it seems to go away. It also seems to help a little bit if you turn off the SRS.

WilliamPC

06-21-05, 02:12 PM

I run my Panasonic S87 DVD's component video through my HK AVR230 and I get an outstanding picture IMO. Better than the HL-N507W that I used to have. I had to tweak the out of box settings quite a bit but I am happy. Friend and family are blown away when I put on a HDTV channel like ESPN or DiscoveryHD or a reference DVD like Lord of the Rings. Im always looking for ways to make it better.

Im just wondering if it would be better to go straight from the DVD to the TV via component cables. Does the built in upscaler care that its gone through the AVR230? Does the Receiver do anything to the signal to prevent upscaling to 720p?

I also wonder if getting a Samsung DVD-HD850 Hi Def upscaling DVD would make a difference. Would it just be redundant redundant?

Call me stubborn, or even slow, but do I have any chance at a good viewing experience from a Panasonic 480p DVD player through component input on the R4667? I really want to run all my video through my Onkyo 602 Receiver, and I don't want to have to deal with HDMI except maybe for my cable STB.

Am I fooling myself? It seems like some people in this thread have reported good PQ from 480p DVD through component. . .

Amphiaraus

06-21-05, 02:28 PM

That's basically my question as well--I would get an upscaling DVD player, since it seems that the conventional wisdom is that the players in general do a better job upscaling than the TV's, but, as far as I can tell, without hacking the DVD player there's no way to get the 720p video out except for HDMI, and I don't want to have to worry about the audio issues associated with that. . .

Thanks for the reassurance, William--I've got the S87 myself, and the 4667 is on its way! I think I'm right in saying that the receiver doesn't do anything to the signal, and the TV must upscale it to 720p, since that's it's native resolution.

SaintsMan

06-21-05, 03:27 PM

Again, I don't have my R4667 yet, but there seems to be reliable information that running 480p games through the component connection and choosing the preset GAME pretty much (but perhaps not completely) eliminates lag. I haven't heard any reports about this solution with respect to 480i games.

Thanks, and what about 720p and 1080i?Any reports on lag in those?

rlb3778

06-21-05, 03:55 PM

I previously purchased an Onkyo home theater about 2 years ago, which absolutely rocks...it came with a DVD player that I just hooked up to my new HLR4667W via Monster component cables.

I popped in The Incredibles to check out the picture and I have a few questions. The default format the DVD sends the picture in is the interlaced I believe they call it...which is pretty crisp but I notice on the text of the DVD menu and certain scenes, there seems to be distortion. I don't know what better way to say it aside from posting a picture of this...it seems like the movie itself also hasm in some scenes, a lot of horizontal lines going through it...subtle horizontal lines but there nonetheless.

When I switch into progressive scan mode the movie takes on a blurry look...the horizontal lines are gone and the distortion of the text is gone but now everything looks blurry...I don't have another DVD player to swap in and test this out but could this be an effect of the DVD player?

I'm really new to this whole HD thing and I'm really happy with the TV as a whole but I really want to get the most from the TV and I'm glad I found this forum, so thanks for any help in advance!

rlb

ringo64

06-22-05, 02:14 AM

How is the HLR4667W's performance when watching standard cable feed? I thought people claimed that Sony GW4 have very good PQ even on just standard cable feeds. Does anybody have a head to head comparison of the different feeds (cable, HDTV, PS2 or Xbox game, SD, DVD standard and upconverted) between a GW4 and an HLR? I am actually down to 2 choices, the HLR4667W (which the wife loves BTW because of the aestethics) and the 42A10 or 50A10 that will come out by early August. Thanks!!!
Regarding PQ over standard cable, the picture in SD is very good in my area (Cox - Orange County, CA). My non-HD box was also very good, but analog channels in the HD box are pretty bad. I ended up splitting the cable - one to the box then component to TV, the other straight to the TV. The analog channels are very good with the internal tuner. Interestingly, the HD network channels are better this way than through the cable box (the HD content is shown in a subchannel: analog is channel 4 and HD is channel 4-1).

scherer326

06-22-05, 09:18 PM

Okay so here is my problem , I want to watch something from my computer also on my HL-R4667, but want both the computer monitor and tv to be able to be displaying at the same time. Will this work. I want to do it this way so I dont have to use an s-video cable from cpu to tv anymore to watch stuff.

Right now I have the VGA cable going from cpu to desktop monitor(this is normal to use my computer for everyday use). My cpu also has a dvi slot. Can I run a dvi to vga cable from cpu to TV. J&R sells this cable. Or should I just get a dvi to vga adapter and get another vga to vga cable to run between the adapter and tv. Will both of these work. Please help.

u2ae2

06-22-05, 11:50 PM

I apologize if this was asked earlier but after reading the first 10-12 pages I just scanned through the rest.

I was looking at the 5667 (possibly going to purchase a 5067) the other day at a local retailer when I noticed a poor picture during their demo. Knowing how they do their demo feeds, I asked a salesman if they had a DVD player that they could hook up to the TV. After hooking up the DVD and starting National Treasure, I noticed something that was very discouraging. During the shot of the Washington Monument I could see what I can only describe as ghosting. It was not the rainbow effect as it seemed to be greyscale. It was like there was a translucent mirror image of the monument to the left side of the original. It was faded but definately noticeable. After seeing this, I also noticed it a few other places that were showing objects (capitol building, parts of the actors depending on the background).

Have any of the owners noticed something like this? Could it have been the DVD itself (they hooked up two different DVD players and it was evident on both)? I realize it could be a problem just because it is a display unit, but that wouldn't bode well for the longevity of the TV either. I was thinking about waiting for the 68 series but unfortunately I think the 56" may be too large for my living room.

Any help would be appreciated.

I bought a hlr5067w which I have now returned.
The set displayed a ghost, actually a double ghost offset left, for any vertical edge when using the analog inputs, such as 480p/i DVD.
The picture was stunning and photographically perfect with the digital HDMI input from a scaling DVD player at 480p, 720p, and 1080i.
I was very sorry to return this set, because the picture was so good.
But I plan to use all the inputs, so all the inputs should work.
I took my test disk (AVIA) to the store and the demo model also showed ghosting.
For that reason, I got my money back and did not exchange for another set.
SD cable also showed ghosting.
Samsung did a great job on the digital side, but not on the analog inputs.
I really loved this set.
I dont want to seem like too much of a geek, but I'm grieving the loss like a break-up. Why oh why couldn't it just resolve a vertical line without messing it all up?

htwaits

06-23-05, 12:31 AM

I dont want to seem like too much of a geek, but I'm grieving the loss like a break-up.
Geeks don't do analog. ;)

lswaidz

06-23-05, 02:01 AM

Anyone NOT have any lag on videogames???

Nothing on my 5667 yet... I'm using a wireless controller so maybe I'm just used to it from that... I can still kill at MVP '05 on PS2 w/ component... the underscan is annoying but i'm pretty much used to it... i'll swap this out for a 1080p set in a year anyway... until then it works just perfectly.

~Lance

thegoldenhand

06-23-05, 02:25 AM

Does using a CableCard prohibit one from receiving 5.1 DD?

Hello! I plan on using this TV mostly watching digital cable, HD local broadcasts, via cable card.

1. Will I have PIP capability via the cable card?
2. Will I be able to do a PIP on an SD and an HD signal side by side just like how Sony does via twinview?
3. What is the best upconverting DVD player that you guys have used on these Sammy DLPs?

I am waiting for the new grand wegas to come out by my choice is actually now down to a HLR4667W and the upcoming KDF-E50A10 (or if it comes out to be way over my budget, I'll go with a KDF42WE655). Please help in convincing me that the Sammy HLR4667W would turn out to be the better choice.

I watch digital cable about 75% of the time, and then the rest is tossed up between HD local broadcasts and DVD movies. I am not into games. Help me decide. Thanks!!! BTW, I've seen at stores and like pretty much both of them.

MatthewR

06-23-05, 09:37 AM

1: yes
2: no... not without a STB on one of the video connetions. the PIP can only be an analog signal
3: dont' have an answer for you sorry

i'm on my 3rd cable card in a week... right now i'm tryign to get to level 2 tech support with samsung to figure out if its my set that's not workign right or the cable cards, but i keep gettign disconnected when they transfer me

Matt

ElwoodBlues

06-23-05, 10:08 AM

Ok, I finally gave in last week and brought home a HLR5067W. For what its worth, here are my first impressions to add to everyone elses:

Digital TV over antenna is excellent, with the content that is actually HD being really incredible (yes, my first HD set). Standard def Dish Network via S-video is good too, actually better than I expected. Will probably upgrade the some flavor of HD sat at some point.

X-box via component with audio run through the TV speakers seems fine. No delay that I can detect, but I'm not really a hard-core gamer. X-men in 720P looks really good. Project Gotham Racing 2 (480P?) looks so-so when running 4 players, but having a 50 inch screen makes thing kinda fun for multiplayer.

Haven't had time to run too many DVDs yet. (I also need to decide on a new DVD player.) Watched the 5th Element on my current player (not progressive scan) and everything looked pretty good, with no audio delay issues. However, when the kids watch Shrek, there is a perceptible lip sync problem. Not sure why this would differ based on what title we're watching. Audio was DD fiber to "old" Denon AVR2700, video was S-video connection passed through same Denon. I should change this to a direct component connection soon or a new player altogether with prograssive scan.

Remote control is so-so, but with me everything gets rolled into a universal remote usually anyhow.

Rainbow effect is noticable to me under certain circumstances, but not annoying. Overall, I'm very happy so far.

ill_take_one

06-23-05, 11:20 AM

Just brought home my 5067 HLR yesterday as well. Was actually comparing the Sammy, the Mitsu 52" and the Sony LCD's over a long period of time.

First impressions:

I tried some DVD's with my nonprogressive scan sony dvd player (via component cables) and was actually suprised. Most of the dvd's looked pretty good, although when there were moving scenes it really didn't look that great. Lots of distortion/noise/etc. I'm hoping i'll see a major improvement when i receive my Samsung HD950 DVD player (will be connected via HDMI). Any advice/suggestions/tips?

Watching HD on CBS and ABC last night was a treat even though the shows were re-runs. It was MUCH more clear and vibrant than watching my dvd's earlier. I couldn't believe the difference actually. Seeing that last night made 100% sure that this was the right tv for me.

The only downside i noticed last night after viewing about 4 hours of dvd's and tv, was that i started to notice the dreaded rainbows. My thinking why i saw them, is because my eyes were very fatigued (big tv, small room). I didn't notice a single rainbow the first couple hours, then when my eyes were tired i started noticing them frequently, although its not really that distracting. I'm going to see if i can proove my theory correct tonight when i get home from work, and see if i can catch any rainbows right away when i turn on the tv.

Finally, thanks for all the great posts on the forum. I'm glad i found this place a year or two ago. Helped me finalize my decision. :)

cjlawson

06-23-05, 11:52 AM

Turn your contrast down a little and that should help with seeing some of the rainbows.

Alichai

06-23-05, 12:25 PM

Hi everyone, I just got my HLR4667W last night and I have a few questions.

I have cox digital cable+dvr service in Fairfax, VA (non-HD service). I need to run the coax directly into the TV to get my HD local channels, and also run it into the cable/dvr and then pop it over to the TV on another input to get all the channels and to use my DVR. How much money do I need to spend on a cable splitter? Is digital cable all-or-nothing, or should I invest in a $50 gold-plated splitter/amp?

Also, is this the best way to run things? My HD looks amazing straight into the TV's tuner. My local newscast in HDTV was so stunning, I don't even know what the news was about, but I watched it for half an hour! But through the auto-channel-scan on the TV, it only came up with ABC, NBC, FOX, CBS and 3 WETA channels? All the rest are blank. Does this mean those are all the unscrambled channels in my local cable? I guess I just put the cable box on another input andswitch over it to watch non-HD content on all the other channels.

Oh also, I HAD a progressive scan DVD that I bought years ago in anticipation of getting an HDTV, but it broke :( Last night I hooked up a normal, non-prog-scan Sony DvD player through component cables and the picture was suprisingly excellent. Colors were just amazing - the remastered version of Akira and Star Wars Ep4 were WAY better looking than I expected. I can't wait to get a real progressive scan DvD player.

My gamecube on composite video looks really trashy. I ordered the proprietary Component cables and they are in the mail. I hear it is like night and day, especially on those games that support 480p. I did not notice any video lag when playing, but I didn't get to try any games where it would be really easy to notice it, like the poster who played DDR. I don't have an audio system though, so everything goes right into the TV. Maybe this helps?

**Edit - forgot to say that I LOVE THIS TV. It is beautiful and I think my roomate was nearly ready to make sexual advances toward it =D

MatthewR

06-23-05, 02:42 PM

don't even buy gold plated anything... its all junk. find yourself a 2 way, 5mhz-1000ghz , 120db RFI rated splitter. you can probably find one at home depot. i'd stay away from radio shack stuff. 2 way splitters only take 3.5 db off of the signal, so unless your signal is low (around -5 db or lower on the higher, uhf frequencies) you'll be fine

Amphiaraus

06-23-05, 09:11 PM

I got my 4667 today, and I just wanted to report my impressions of the lag and lip synch issues (the picture is as wonderful IMHO as the yea-sayers say). Expecting to have problems right off the bat, I did not get my hopes up, but hooked everything up as I'd planned before hearing about the lag problem--that is, DVD player (480p) and Xbox through component input into my Onkyo 602 and from there to Component 1 on the TV. I chose the preset DVD in the "Input" menu of the TV.

I experienced no lag whatsoever playing Halo 2 and Super Monkey Ball (ahem, with my daughter!). I'll try more games, and report back on whether I have a problem with any, but I'm thinking that it must be certain games, like MVP 2K5, that have the problems.

I experienced no lip-synch problems whatsoever with something like 5 different DVD's.

Your Mileage May Vary, of course--and it seems pretty certain that it will, given how many different reports there are on this!

ElwoodBlues

06-23-05, 09:34 PM

I'm hoping i'll see a major improvement when i receive my Samsung HD950 DVD player (will be connected via HDMI). Any advice/suggestions/tips?

Not to get to far off topic, but any particular reason for the HD950? Is that the "preferred" player to go with these DLPs? That will probably be my next purchase (to replace my current interlaced DVD player) but I've barely begun researching.

wp746911

06-24-05, 12:02 AM

Well,
swung by best buy-got an open boxed hlr-5067W (marked down well below the new units on sale) plus I had a 15%off coupon-long story short I got it well below even cheap-o mail order places (added a 4 year warranty so it is a little more).

Setting it up (the previous owner has already screwed with the setting) was a little confusing (he had it set for a cable box) I have a few questions:
1)I'm getting HD tv i think?? I only pay for the basic analog TV-am I getting some HD channels accidentally for free? I'm in houston and use entouch. I thought the built in hd tuner would only tune in OTA HD signals and couldn't decode satellite or cable broadcast HD?? The signal says "HD" in the right hand, it looks really really sharp, and from menu->channel I can see my digital signal strenth is like 5-6 bars?? Confused?
2)any way to reset the tv? The guy has changed lots of settings and its bugging me to change them back again...

Milmanias

06-24-05, 12:16 AM

1)I'm getting HD tv i think?? I only pay for the basic analog TV-am I getting some HD channels accidentally for free? I'm in houston and use entouch. I thought the built in hd tuner would only tune in OTA HD signals and couldn't decode satellite or cable broadcast HD?? The signal says "HD" in the right hand, it looks really really sharp, and from menu->channel I can see my digital signal strenth is like 5-6 bars?? Confused?

The tv has an ATSC/QAM tuner, and you can get unscrambled HDTV signals from the cable company for free (legal, they can't scramble the local channels). Just a secret the cable companies don't want us to know. That was one of the things that convinced me to get a new hlr, HDTV without paying cable or installing a new antenna.

wp746911

06-24-05, 12:32 AM

so is it some FCC mandate that they have to offer free hdtv programming over cable then or something? Just sounds too good to be true? I was getting all ready to go messing around in my attic but was VERY suprised to be getting hdtv!

MatthewR

06-24-05, 01:10 AM

in new york you also get discovery HD for free.. not sure Y they didnt' scramble it but they don't

catshannon

06-24-05, 02:11 AM

UCSB

06-24-05, 03:15 AM

Hi Everyone,

Been a lurker for the past few months and received my HLR 4667 on Tuesday...I dont want to review it much since this is my first hdtv and I am pretty much blown away by it...especially the HDTV

I think I have set my system up well, but I know that there is some serious expertise in these forums, so if someone can comment on my setup/questions, that would be great...

1. Motorola DCT6200 (from RCN Boston): DVI out -> HDMI of TV
2. Motorola DCT6200: optical digital out -> Opt digital in of HTIB (Panasonic SC-HT15) receiver
3. DVD Progressive Scan -> Component out to Component 1 of TV
4. DVD coax digital out to coax digital in of HTIB receiver

Comments/Improvement on above setup would be appreciated.

Questions:
Q1. The Samsung setup also suggests taking connecting the cable box co-ax out to ANT 1. Is there any reason to do this? The only reason I can think of is the TV Guide, but I get that through my cable box and it seems more than enough for the moment.

Q2. I received a TIVO series 2 80 hr recorder for my wedding registry and need to figure out if I should insert it into the above setup or just upgrade the cable box to the Motorola 6208 DVR for an extra $4/month. I am concerned about the quality of the TIVO recordings since it does not record HDTV. I am not a current TIVO user but I know that its interface will probably beat the 6208 hands down, but how does a downconverted HD feed look when replayed back on TIVO?

Thanks in advance for your responses,
Cat

Q1. If you connect your cable feed to the TV, the tuner in the TV may do a better job on some channels. Especially, the analog SD channels. Try it and see what you think. I think there is a good chance that many of the channels will look much better. Also, you have more options in PIP.
Q2. Skip Tivo ... go directly to Motorola 6412 (hopefully they have this upgrade to the 6408 in your area). The ability to record HD is critical, at least to me. I have a ReplayTV DVR and the Motorola 6412. I had both connected, but after a few days with the 6412, I just turned my ReplayTV recorder off. There are some custom codes for the Motorola to skip back 15 seconds, forward 30 seconds, and others that you can program into your remote. Chase them down and use them. My Motorola DVR is one of my favorite, most used components.

unr1

06-24-05, 03:53 AM

Glad to join the HLR XX67W club...TV getting shipped in next week.

One question though:

For video, I am connecting my computer to the TV via DVI to HDMI connection. (I have a ATI 9800 Pro 128mb video card).
The current resolution on my computer video card is, 1280x1024. Because this samsung TV is native 720p, should I change my resolution to 1280x720 and THEN play my movie? (Play movie through VLC player or windows media player, etc)

Or does it matter?

:confused:

aaronwt

06-24-05, 08:48 AM

You want to match the TVs native resolution.

Liquidous

06-24-05, 10:27 AM

greetings.

i just picked up a hlr5076w.. connected it to my pc, dvi out to hdmi into the tv. it boots up. into windows, video is excellent, however i can not change my resolution at all. i have windows media center edition 2005..... was hoping someone was NOT going to tell me i have to use the pc vga input, because the hdmi input is working fine, but i just can not change the resolution on the pc to get better picture on the tv.

also - there is an odd effect on the tv.. in the middle portion of the screen, all pictures are excellent quality and excellent proportion, however as you get to the outside (sides, right and left) of the screen, it gets distorted, almost like the screen is a curvature.. for instance, if you see a head in the middle, it looks great, but if you see a head near the side of the screen, its fat, and stretched out... same with shoulder width, normal in the middle, but un natural and huge if its on the side.. almost as if the screen was convex.

any suggestions please let me know.
i did purchase warranty.

shrikedoa

06-24-05, 11:22 AM

The PC won't let you change resolution? Is it seeing the monitor as the 5067? I know when I look at my Monitor setting it knows it's attached to a 5067 DLP, and lists the appropriate resolutions and frequencies (ie 1280x720x60hz)

Sounds like the tv is in panorama mode. I know when you use the PC input, one of the "mode" options (in addition to the usual 4:3, 16:9 etc.) is Wide PC. Using this setting with my resolution set to 1280x720 gives me a perfect display.

Also, I'm attaching to the VGA input. I'm not sure what additional benefit there would be in going through HDMI. I'm getting full resolution already. Can anyone explain an advantage?

htwaits

06-24-05, 11:45 AM

Also, I'm attaching to the VGA input. I'm not sure what additional benefit there would be in going through HDMI. I'm getting full resolution already. Can anyone explain an advantage?
VGA is analog so digital information has to be converted to analalog in the PC. The TV has to convert back to digital before the image is displayed. If you use DVI(PC) to HDMI or DVI (TV) the signal remains digital all the time.

The HLP models provide Expand mode with a 720p digital connection (HDMI or DVI). Expand mode is a 1 for 1 pixel mapping with about 1.5% over-scan.

subwoofer

06-24-05, 12:30 PM

Does anyone have pictures of their computer on a DLP?

blackdiamond

06-24-05, 12:45 PM

I've hooked up my PC to my HLR via HDMI but haven't taken pictures of the results yet. I'll post up pics of what I got when tiling my desktop with a 1 pixel checkboard pattern. I get blotchy pattern of circles appearing in regular pattern. This set is definitely doing scaling and I'm not getting 1:1 pixel mapping. I hope someone else will try this to confirm it's not something wrong with my display settings on my PC(I hope it is). Otherwise, looks like there is no way to get 1:1 mapping through the HDMI input.

carl033

06-24-05, 01:55 PM

I've had my HL-R4667W for a couple of weeks now. When I first hooked my HT audio to it, there were lip sync problems with the analog feeds from my two satellite STBs. Sound from the TV and picture were in sync, but audio through the HT sound system was ahead and caused a bad echo when both TV and HT speakers are on. I believe this is due to a fixed delay the Samsung puts in to allow for processing of the various picture modes. It then delays the sound to match.
Yes, you can mute the TV speakers or just turn the volume down, but the HT audio and video are then out of sync. I solved that by taking the (delayed) audio output from the TV and using it to feed the HT audio system. I also checked the DVD audio and video. They were OK.
Eventually, this issue will go away when I upgrade the HT audio package to digital. Most middle to high-end units have a variable audio delay feature.

htwaits

06-24-05, 02:46 PM

Does anyone have pictures of their computer on a DLP?
I haven't taken pictures but here is the thread about calibration results. We have our PC connected for movies using DVI.

I'll take some pictures later and post them. I'm not sure how good scaled digital pictures will reflect the image on the screen.

SethS Calibrated Our HLP5063 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=548133)

scherer326

06-24-05, 05:58 PM

my horizontal (when watching a movie or show that is sometimes in widecreen mode) and verticals lines (when watching something in 4:3) are not straight. Is there any way to adjust these to make them straighter. I am a tv freak and want everything close to perfect. I have the HL-R4667

Sgt_Strider

06-25-05, 05:29 AM

So no information on whether this TV is capable of 1:1 pixel placement?

SSpiro

06-25-05, 11:00 PM

catshannon

06-26-05, 09:54 PM

Q1. If you connect your cable feed to the TV, the tuner in the TV may do a better job on some channels. Especially, the analog SD channels. Try it and see what you think. I think there is a good chance that many of the channels will look much better. Also, you have more options in PIP.
Q2. Skip Tivo ... go directly to Motorola 6412 (hopefully they have this upgrade to the 6408 in your area). The ability to record HD is critical, at least to me. I have a ReplayTV DVR and the Motorola 6412. I had both connected, but after a few days with the 6412, I just turned my ReplayTV recorder off. There are some custom codes for the Motorola to skip back 15 seconds, forward 30 seconds, and others that you can program into your remote. Chase them down and use them. My Motorola DVR is one of my favorite, most used components.

Bill thanks for your suggestion...I did attach the cable feed to the TV and yeah the analog SD channels do look ever so better...now the issue is explaining it to my wife :)

I should also be getting the 6412 sometime this coming week. I do have another question...what resolution should I have my STB send over DVI....720p or 1080i. Default in 720p but I was just wondering.

Thanks

Cheezmo

06-26-05, 10:48 PM

So no information on whether this TV is capable of 1:1 pixel placement?

On the HLP series the only way to get it was with 720p input over HDMI or DVI with the picture size set to "Expand". I haven't seen an HLR yet to comment but if it has that as a P.Size option with digital 720p input, that would be the place to start.

BlackAdder72

06-27-05, 12:04 AM

Hi All,

This is a great TV... but I have encountered a strange problem. Any thoughts from my fellow enthusiasts would be very welcome.

I am using it for a HTPC. I started out using at with the VGA-in connection, and had very little problems with overscan at standard 1280x720p timings that I could not correct by switching between the different TV modes (wide, expand, normal, etc.)

I tried switching to a DVI connection (a.k.a. "got greedy"), and encountered lots of overscan problems. Now the TV itself will not seem to let me adjust between the different modes, even when I switch back to the VGA input.

It seems I have two options: (1) try to figure out how to get the TV modes back available and use the closest one, or (2) try to correct the problem in Powerstrip.

I can't seem to correct the overscan in Powerstrip. I can lock the scan rate and correct the horizontal overscan, but there's a lot of vertical overscan, and if I try to adjust the vertical size of the screen, the refresh rate falls too far below 60 and I lose the image. I am using a Radeon x850 XT and the latest v.5.6 drivers.

Many thanks if anyone has some advice.

Regards,
Barnaby

UCSB

06-27-05, 12:47 AM

Bill thanks for your suggestion...I did attach the cable feed to the TV and yeah the analog SD channels do look ever so better...now the issue is explaining it to my wife :)

I should also be getting the 6412 sometime this coming week. I do have another question...what resolution should I have my STB send over DVI....720p or 1080i. Default in 720p but I was just wondering.

Thanks

I have mine set to 720p. Others on the forum have experiemented with 1080i and letting the TV scale back to 720p. But, 720p looks nice to me. REMEMBER: when you get your 6412 make sure you get the custom codes to do things like jump ahead 30 seconds. They are discussed in the Motorola 6412 thread.

htwaits

06-27-05, 01:51 AM

I haven't seen an HLR yet to comment but if it has that as a P.Size option with digital 720p input, that would be the place to start.
New HLR owners haven't reported finding Expand or it's equivalent. :confused:

N2Advnture

06-27-05, 06:15 AM

Yay.. Finally bit the bullet and picked up my set today. Got the HLR5667W and LOVE it..

I will have some questions, but doing my research first. :)

First question though - For some reason my HD cable isn't really playing the HD content.. and the upper SD cable channels are snow'y... What would be a good fix? Signal booster? Cable goes to STB, STB to Surround Sond via Component, then out to Comp1 on TV.. Thoughts?

I got the HLR5667W last Monday and it took me a lot of messing with the attic antenna to get the HD channels to come in. Go to antennaweb and get your compass coordinates as to where to point your antenna. Unlike analog, you have to be right on with HD signals. I turned it 2" and BAM...HD!

I am currently using the attic antenna that the previous owner had but am getting the Zenith Silver Senor this afternoon so I can adjust it in the room where the tv is located. (I live in a 3 story townhouse and it sucks going into the attic to adjust it).

A couple of setup notes:
Once you get your HD in, you can view the signal strength under the channel setup.

Don't forget that you have to calibrate (Avia disk) for each "source" (ie DVD, component1, etc...) to get the best picture.

4:3 gives you the best picture quality

The TV Guide feature is kinda cool too

shrikedoa

06-27-05, 08:53 AM

Update on PS2 gaming lag and the HLR5067...I followed the instructions mentioned previously and set the input mode to the GAME preset. It didn't seem to make any difference. Playing DDR still produces a noticable delay. We tried a game that will let you insert a delay and the max setting of 100ms did help, but there was still a noticable disconnect between the screen display and dancepad.

Of course DDR has very tight timings, so it may be playable for other games. But my wife is depressed about this.

Alichai

06-27-05, 12:27 PM

Cable question...

I have the 4667, and I have our Digital Cable feed plugged directly into the cable tuner in the TV.I am picking up my local channels in HD, but they are "skippy" for lack of a better word. Sometimes the signal goes out entirely, sometimes the skips are only sound and not picture. One channel never does that however - WETA. The signal strength always reads almost full, I tried an amplifier and it did not improve the problem at all. The skips are 5-30 seconds apart, but still very hard to deal with for an entire show. Watching tennis was impossible.

So is this a problem with my cable company? What do I tell them? Will they understand that I am supposed to get the local channels for free or will this be a huge fight with Cox?

BJG2005

06-27-05, 06:09 PM

Any recommendations on DVD player and receiver to go with the HLR-5667W set that I just got.

I'm replacing everything (loss due to fire).

Suggestions on brands, models, and/or features are much appreciated. I've seen questions on which input is best for DVD players to run into the set, but few responses. Comments on this area would be appreciated as well.

I'm watching OTA HD now and am very pleased with the picture. I have no plans for cable. Maybe satellite (big maybe). The room is about 15' by 22'.

Budget is undefined at this point because I don't know the trade-offs. Speakers will be next, btw. I'd like to keep the speakers (including sub woofer), receiver, and dvd player in the $3k-3.5k range. So, whatever I spend on the receiver and dvd player will need to come out of the speaker budget.

What are people connecting to their HLR sets?

Thanks.

dumbaboo

06-27-05, 06:29 PM

wp746911

06-27-05, 06:35 PM

kjongsma

06-27-05, 06:40 PM

Quick question. I have the 4667 and I can't find anywhere on the remote to swap to my PIP channel. The "Swap" function exists in the Menu, but isn't on the remote. Does anyone know how to swap channels using the remote?

I'm not at home right now, but there is a PIP button on the remote. I think its on right side of the "arc" of buttons just above the round enter button, but it might be under the slide cover.

kjongsma

06-27-05, 06:40 PM

Any recommendations on DVD player and receiver to go with the HLR-5667W set that I just got. I would strongly suggest you look at a DVD recorder. I have an older SD Liteon that works very well, but they have just released an HD combi HDD recorder that looks very good. Think Tivo without the fees and the ability to burn stuff you want to keep. Around $300 IIRC.

dumbaboo

06-27-05, 08:44 PM

I'm not at home right now, but there is a PIP button on the remote. I think its on right side of the "arc" of buttons just above the round enter button, but it might be under the slide cover.

Yes I know about the PIP button, and I did check out all the buttons under the slide cover. Yet I still couldn't figure out how to swap the channels using the remote. I had a 4663 model before and I could swap it, but now with the 4667 I can't. Isn't that weird.

subwoofer

06-27-05, 08:50 PM

^this makes me wonder how PS3 will handle on these tvs since Samsung really doesn't have an answer to this lag issue. Or do they?

dumbaboo

06-27-05, 08:51 PM

Milmanias

06-27-05, 09:30 PM

I got my 6167w on Friday and love it except when I notice the rainbows. I really hope I can get used to them because the set is a keeper. There is also a weird dark vertical line about 3" left of the center of the screen. It's only noticeable when the tv is off or the scene is very dark, but no trace when the screen is bright. Kind of weird, but it's hardly noticeable.

What extended warranty option should I invest in? Approximately how long is the lamp life on these sets?

nk123

06-27-05, 10:39 PM

DIGITAL HAZE

06-27-05, 10:58 PM

Now to share my impression on the 4667, I love every single aspect of it, the graphics, the sound, and the sleek design. I've also had the Panasonic PT-44LCX65 for about a week and I can honestly say that the Samsung simply blows away the Panasonic in terms of picture qualities. However I do notice lag while playing PS2 games through either component 1 or 2. The delay is much better than the older 4663, but games like Hot Shots Golf or DDR are still not playable unless you can get used to the delay and be able to press buttons slightly ahead. Other than that, it's simply a great TV and definitely one of the best at its price range.
Thank you for the insight on your game lag. (I can still return my JVC, as it has a bad spot on it and about 3 weeks left on the return policy.)

I had that model of Panny for about 3 days myself before sending it back. I went a different route with the JVC. It doesn't have any lag in games at all, and the picture is probably.....if the Panny were rated a 0 and the Sammy a 100, I think the JVC would be about ~75. It lacks the features the Sammy has as well.......but I just can't stand lag in games because I play online alot, and don't need ADDITIONAL lag above and beyond what I normally get! (50-100ms on average pings) If only the Sammy had no lag, I wouldn't have had any shopping to do. I just would have gotten a 50" DLP and had been done with it. :(

UCSB

06-27-05, 11:35 PM

First post in avsforum. Not sure of it is the right place to post this request.
I ordered my HLR 5063. I am wondering how the center speaker of the
Hometheater is placed. The top looks too narrow to mount any thing.
Is it generally placed under the TV on ths stand? That would require
a TV stand which can take components + speaker. ANy suggestions?
(speaker is Enery 5+1 set)

NK ... welcome to AVS. HLR5063 is not a model. HLP5063W is one of last year's (2004) 50" 720p sets and HLR5067W is the new 2005 model released in May. You might want to scan this thread (CLICK HERE (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4954868#post4954868)) to check out the Samsung models. People have mounted the speakers in the stand under the TV, on little center channel stands designed to attach to the top of the TV, and wall mounted speakers behind the TV.

mikeb123

06-28-05, 08:40 AM

got my hlr-5067 going now...DVE is on order...

I have a regular panasonic progressive scan dvd player-

is it worth getting an upconverting dvd player?

honestly hdtv is so awesome now that dvds look a little lackluster..

what will work the best with this?
I just got a HLR5667w and also purchased an upconverting Panasonic S77. The quality improvement with the upconvert turned on is significant. You can get an upconverting DVD for $150 to $300 depending on where you look. It is a good investment but keep in mind that new technology is 9-12 months away for HD DVD.

jasonr114

06-28-05, 08:49 AM

I have a read a majority of this thread with regards to the lyp sync issues on DVD/Video Games. The general consensus seems to be that 420i/p video signals will result in lag.

EDIT: removed false info.

My concern is Dish Network TV. I match about 3-4 hours of SD Dish Network TV programming a day. The signal will be 420i (i assume).

Will I have any lypc sync issues?

N2Advnture

06-28-05, 09:19 AM

I just got a HLR5667w and also purchased an upconverting Panasonic S77. The quality improvement with the upconvert turned on is significant. You can get an upconverting DVD for $150 to $300 depending on where you look. It is a good investment but keep in mind that new technology is 9-12 months away for HD DVD.

Mike,
Thanks!!! I am considering getting a DVD recorder and the Toshiba XS52 does upconverting but wondered if it was worth it.

Also - regarding HD DVD....

The two formats fighting for supremacy as the next-generation videodisc format are HD-DVD (developed by Toshiba and NEC) and Blu-Ray (developed by Sony). The DVD Forum supports HD-DVD, but this does not mean that HD-DVD has won. It all comes down to one thing--studio support.

Blu-Ray has Sony-owned Columbia Tri-Star, and Sony just bought MGM. Recently, Disney said that it would release titles on Blu-Ray discs. HD-DVD is backed by Time Warner (Warner Bros. and New Line), Universal, and Paramount. 20th Century Fox has yet to decide but is on the advisory boards for both formats.

At this year's Consumer Electronics Show in Las Vegas, the supporters behind HD-DVD put action behind their words, announcing more than 85 titles that will be released on HD-DVD before year's end, including "Batman Begins", "Braveheart", and the Harry Potter series. With that kind of line-up, it looks like HD-DVD may have taken the lead, leaving Blu-Ray with only titles from one other studio other than the ones owned by Sony and no announced movies.

However, a DVD format war may be avoided in the last minute. Sony execs are reaching out. "From the point of view to provide the best service to the consumer one format is better than two. We're open to discussions," Yukinori Kawauchi, general manager in charge of Blu-Ray at Sony, said in an interview. Toshiba (Behind HD-DVD) has said that they are now in talks with Sony and also prefers one format. This does not mean that one format is a reality just yet. HD-DVD still plans to launch in Q4 2005. However, if a unified format is decided upon it may delay the launch because of the time that the companies need to make it ready for mass production. The unified format will likely be a mix of the two formats. Taking the best from both worlds.

Nate Thompson

06-28-05, 10:10 AM

I just received my HLR-4667W yesterday and my initial impression is that this is a very good set. Excellent picture and design, no lag issues yet with gaming (of course, I've only tried GT4 at 1080i so I can't comment if it's apparent on 480i/p signals). I do have a question in regards to hooking a PC to the monitor via a VGA cable. When I set the computer to the native resolution of the set (1280x720), I lose the ability to select the wide PC mode, which I think would resolve the overscan issues I have. If I send it any other resolutions, the wide PC mode appears. Looking through the manual, specifically the section on using the TV as a PC monitor, it looks like the set is entering into 1280x720 DTV mode, and not 1280x720 PC mode. The difference seems to be that in DTV mode, the only aspect choices are 16:9 and 4:3, whereas in PC mode Wide PC is also given.

To sum this all up, has anyone here had any issues with sending a 1280x720p signal to this set from a HTPC connected via VGA port and loosing the ability to use the wide PC mode?

shrikedoa

06-28-05, 10:24 AM

For video games this can be resolved with a tuner intentionally slows the video down to meet the sound.

The above isn't true. The problem with video games isn't lip-sync, it's controller lag. There's an image processing delay as the tv converts the incoming image for display on the tv. So you see the image a certain amount of time after it's been generated by the console. When you press a button on the controller in response to seeing something on screen, the on-screen event actually happened a fraction of a second ago. Thus the controller input is late.

For example, consider DDR. The console draws an arrow crossing the "trigger" point. The tv displays this 200ms later (after doing it's processing). You step on that arrow just as the tv displays it crossing the target. But as far as the console is concerned, you were 200ms late.

The only way around this is to reduce the tv's image processing time to as close to zero as possible, which means producing an image the tv doesn't need to process. So either the console itself has to produce a 720p/1080i image, which next gen consoles will do out of the box, or you need to somehow upconvert the console output.

Lip-sync lag, on the other hand, can be fixed simply by delaying the audio a bit.

SSpiro

06-28-05, 10:31 AM

Time for new impressions now that its a few days later and I've had chances to get things setup better...

Set is absolutely brilliant. HD and SD cable are now where they should be, and quality is amazing (even the SD can be brilliant).. I need to get an upconverting DVD player (buying the DVD-HD850 today) and I need a HDMI switch...

No complaints except lip sync. Getting it from everything - DVD and cable (both SD and HD). Seems to be when the more "active" stuff is going on (explosions, tons of color, etc). I have no ideas to fix yet but its driving me NUTS. My wife doesn't notice, so maybe my OCD is kicking in and I'm over paranoid. Hopeing that when I upgrade the DVD player this will get fixed (since it'll go HDMI instead of component); and then when I get an HDMI switch it'll fix the cable (also component currently) - hopefully.

I have also hooked up my xbox and PS2. I played xbox yesterday (played one game - Destroy all Humans; what a great game!) and it seems to be OK (composite currently). I know it could be better, but its definitely good enough. Haven't played PS2 yet.

Otherwise I'm in love. I see no rainbows, I see now color issues. Every color is absolutely brilliant and I wish I could quit my job and sit in front of it all day long...but then I could never pay for it. :D

jasonr114

06-28-05, 12:01 PM

scherer326

06-28-05, 12:52 PM

Nate Thompson

06-28-05, 01:52 PM

I am in the same boat as you, not an expert here, but when mine is connect from computer to tv via vga. I believe the resolution should be the same as pc. 1024 x 768. Is this correct. That is how mine is at and picture is great.I did notice in the manual it stated that 1024x768 was reccomended to maximize the readability of fonts, but I think you would want to use the native resolution (1280x720p) when watching video content. I think I'm going to take another stab at making a custom resolution that eliminates as much of the overscan as possible.

-Casey-

06-28-05, 03:46 PM

ive been readin this thread for a while before i got my HLR5667 (my first non CRT, big TV purchase, a nice apartment warming present to myself!), but i still have to catch up on the last few pages. anyway, ill put in my gaming and HTS experiences for people.

I have xbox and PS2 both hooked up thru component, and with both optical connections going to a Sammy HTS (i know, but at least i got Klipsch speakers), which is connected thru Svideo.

anyway, virtually all xbox games i play, consisting mainly of FPS, sports, and racing, have no button delay that i can see, EXCEPT the first ESPN NBA game on xbox. there is a very noticable delay doing the free throw shotting. everything else is fine, and the video syncs up perfectly with the audio from the HTS.

as far as PS2 goes, same type of games are played, with of course GTA throw into the mix as well. there is no delay evident there either, AND interestingly enough, with NBA 2K5 set to 480P, there is NO delay even when free throw shooting. that game is booting off the PS2 hard drive using HD Advance, so im not sure what that means.

the HTS, hooked up thru S video, has no delay a/v wise. DNIE, as you all know, cant be turned off on these units, but digital NR is off on all my inputs, and film mode is off on s-video. the HTS is also hooked up with Anynet, but i seriously doubt that contributes in any way for or against a delay.

what i DO have, however, is both component inputs labeled GAME. this apparently turns off 2 processors in the TV, allowing the video to come thru to the screen with less processing than without it labeled this (i did this in the source list menu). I havent tried it without it turned on, but its something i have to check on. ill go back thru the thread and see if this has been mentioned before.

also, i briefly hooked up my HP ZE4300 laptop to the TV, set to 1024x768, and it was flawless, with i think small black bars on the sides, but i didnt do it for long, the laptop battery was virtually dead. either way, i really LOVE this TV, it was well worth it, and it certainly makes my friends with 32" CRTs jealous, haha.

bheaney262

06-28-05, 04:37 PM

I have the Samsung HL-R5667W it has been running non stop in my home for about 3 weeks now and it never ceases to blow me away. I bought the samsung upconvert dvd player w/hdmi output and it blows my panasonic prgssive scan out of the atmosphere. I have the panasonic hdd dvd-r player hooked up to the cable box and I try to record the hd programming in which i succed but its just not hd quality, it only gets upto 480, i have to go s-vid from the cable box to the record than component to the tv. Anyone have any sugg on how to get these great hd programs total quality to my dvd collection? I have a home media center is ther anything I can buy to set that up to catch these hd prgms

bheaney262

06-28-05, 04:39 PM

Does anyone have any suggestions on the component settings ie color settings as well as settings for my hdmi? for my Samsung HL-R5667W

kjongsma

06-28-05, 04:49 PM

Anyone have any sugg on how to get these great hd programs total quality to my dvd collection? You don't*. Welcome to the wonderful world of Digital Rights Management (DRM). The MPAA & friends are really pissed that they weren't able to sell the same product to you over and over. As HD became a reality, they made sure that the electronics manufacturers put in several different mechanisms to prevent recording and copying of HD programs. Nirvana to them is selling you everything on a PPV basis, with variable pricing each time.

*Actually, you should be able to record the HDMI stream once from the cable box. Unless your cable company is doing something funny with the copy flag, they are supposed to let you record one time.

UCSB

06-28-05, 05:04 PM

shrikedoa

06-29-05, 07:00 AM

shrikedoa: Thanks for your response. Based on your comments, any video feed into the TV that is NOT 720p/1080i will have these problems? So, feeding the TV SD Dish Network, VHS, Cable, etc will have these problems, unless my recevier can convert the signal to 720p?

Not necessarily. If the audio is fed into the tv as well, the tv itself will delay it to keep it in sync. However if you feed the video from a dvd player into the tv, but feed the audio directly to a receiver, delay will happen.

-Casey-

06-29-05, 09:28 AM

Not necessarily. If the audio is fed into the tv as well, the tv itself will delay it to keep it in sync. However if you feed the video from a dvd player into the tv, but feed the audio directly to a receiver, delay will happen.

i dont know about will happen, but its definitley more likely. my setup has a DVD HTS going to the TV with S video, and there is no a/v delay. and i know my HTS does not have any kind of delaying feature in it.

im being lazy, and havent gotten around to it, but im going to connect analog audio outputs from my TV to my HTS for watching regular cable (SD, no box) and see if there is an echo with the TV speakers on, or a video delay with them off

subwoofer

06-29-05, 01:38 PM

shrikedoa

06-29-05, 02:42 PM

i dont know about will happen, but its definitley more likely. my setup has a DVD HTS going to the TV with S video, and there is no a/v delay. and i know my HTS does not have any kind of delaying feature in it.

That's second reference to no delay using s-vhs for input (a gamer above reported the same). Tonight I plan to move my ps2 to the svhs input and see if that helps the issue.

jasonr114

06-29-05, 08:20 PM

shrikedoa: Thanks for your input.

It truly is amazing that amount of information (right or wrong) that can be found on the internet and this thread with regards to the audio delay.

I bodly went to Samsungs website and found a lot of information with regard to this issue:

Date 2004-11-12 12:21:00

Question: The Sound On My DLP TV Is Delayed And Not In Sync With The Picture.

Answer:
If the sound on your DLP TV is out of sync with your picture and the TV is not connected to a home theater system, a Samsung technician can adjust the sound sync function on the TV so that the sound and picture are in sync.

To arrange a service call to adjust the sound sync function, call Samsung Customer Care at 1-800-SAMSUNG (1-800-726-7864).

If the sound on your DLP TV is out of sync with your picture and you are using a home theater system (HTS), things become more difficult. In many setups, the television signal comes into a set top box. The set top box audio output is connected directly to the HTS and the set top box video output is connected directly to the TV. Consequently, the audio portion of the signal is sent directly to the HTS without passing through the TV, and the video portion of the signal is sent directly to the TV without passing through the HTS. The two signals are separated and cannot be synced by adjusting the sound sync function in the TV.

If your system is set up as described above, you still may be able to resolve the sound sync problem. Check your HTS user's manual to see if your HTS has a Sound Delay function. If it does, you may be able to adjust the Sound Delay so that the sound and picture are in sync.

If your HTS does not have a Sound Delay function, you may be able to purchase an audio delay device that you can put into your system between the set top box and the HTS. You should be able to adjust the audio delay device so that the sound and picture are in sync.

2004-12-29 06:10:00

Question: Why Do My X Box And PS2 Games Have A Time Lag On My DLP TV?

Answer:
The time lag you experience when you play games on your DLP TV is caused by the electronic circuitry used to produce High Definition quality pictures. Picture data is momentarily stored in memory and processed to produce high quality video. When you are watching TV programs, the time lag is not an issue, but when you play games, the lag becomes noticeable.

The time lag is most apparent if you have your game console attached to the Composite or S-video inputs on your TV because the TV must do more processing to create high quality video from signals coming through these inputs. To reduce the time lag, attach your game console's video out to your TV's Component video inputs (Component 1 or Component 2). Also, if you attach your game to the Component video inputs, make sure you attach the audio cables from the game console to the audio inputs associated with the Component video input you are using.

Note: You may need extra cables or an adapter to connect your game console to the Component video input on your TV. See the owner's manual of your game console for additional information.

An example of a DLP TV's Component video and audio inputs is below:

SSpiro

06-29-05, 09:36 PM

catshannon

06-29-05, 09:46 PM

I have mine set to 720p. Others on the forum have experiemented with 1080i and letting the TV scale back to 720p. But, 720p looks nice to me. REMEMBER: when you get your 6412 make sure you get the custom codes to do things like jump ahead 30 seconds. They are discussed in the Motorola 6412 thread.

Hi Bill,

Got my 6412 yesterday but I am unable to program the 30 second skip code...the remote (SYNERGY V) I got from RCN does not have the setup button on it...the threads I found all refer to the 6412 with relation to Comcast. Which remote did you get with the box?

Thanks,
cat

UCSB

06-29-05, 11:00 PM

Hi Bill,

Got my 6412 yesterday but I am unable to program the 30 second skip code...the remote (SYNERGY V) I got from RCN does not have the setup button on it...the threads I found all refer to the 6412 with relation to Comcast. Which remote did you get with the box?

Thanks,
cat

Comcast gave me a ICX Global remote with the 6412. I think it has limited programmability. But, when the Comcast tech was here he told me to just keep the Comcast Silver remote that I had with the Motorola 5100. I just used the Silver remote to setup the 30 second skip and then programmed my Philips Pronto TSU3000. I keep the two Comcast remotes in my cabinet, but use the Pronto 3000 to control my system. If you have a universal remote, perhaps you can pickup the codes you need at remotecentral.com. Your cable company might be able to give you another remote. I know here in the Bay Area Comcast is giving some customers the upgraded version of their Motorola 5100 Silver Comcast remote, which I think is programmable. If you don't have a universal remote, I know people have also been very successful with the Harmony line and it might be a good time to step up to a high quality remote.

DanPackMan

06-30-05, 07:56 AM

Love my HLR5067 so far, but can't watch it for more than 15 minutes because my upstair AC is broke...too hot!!

Anyway, It appears that when using PIP, the small picture tuner only tunes in analog channels, not DTV (or HD) channels....Anyone notice that? (I admit to not reading 26 pages of the thread first). (I have cable hooked to Ant1 and cable box on AV2)

No PIP Swap button....argghhh.

jlk_250

06-30-05, 08:06 AM

Here is a question regarding the lag (which may have been answered already; not sure)..

I have my setup very similiar to everyone elses.. video directly into the set (HLR5667) and audio into my HTS. Is there anyway to send everything (video AND sound) into the set,and output ALL sound back to the HTS?

I.e. any sound that would come out of the speakers on the set would be able to come out the receiver as well...

Sure, you can do this with the audio input on the AV and Composite inputs. The problem is that you can send it only 2 channels (L/R) via RCA jacks. If you have a dolby surround sound DVD player, you would lose the surround sound. So you're forced to send the audio straight from the DVD player to the AV receiver to get surround. Then you get audio/video lag (at least some, whether it's a problem or not).

Samsung really needs to come up with an optical input so it can add the delay in to the digital sound signal even if it isn't going to decode and use it.

Samsung also really needs to come up with modes that do less video processing so video games can be played with insignificant lag even if it costs in PQ.

Jon

wanker

06-30-05, 12:22 PM

I need some advise on setting the picture up, any suggestions? I have dish network.

-Casey-

06-30-05, 01:00 PM

Casey, got any pictures of your laptop being displayed on your new DLP tv? I'd love to see how it looks.

So curious why some people notice lag and others don't. I think I might take my PS2 to Tweeter and try it out. I have Madden so I'm sure the kickoff meter would be a great test.
sure, i can get a few shots. i have a really crummy digital camera (Samsung, haha) but i will see if i can use another one to get you a better representation. give me a few days to track down a decent camera.

i still also have to try and turn off the GAME feature, which apparently turns off processing in the TV. i want to see if that makes the games lag any less, or if its just a placebo.

kjongsma

06-30-05, 04:31 PM

I need some advise on setting the picture up, any suggestions? I have dish network.Depends on what Dish receiver youhave. I have a 508 plugged into an HLR4667W using the component video connection. Works very well.

pervtab

06-30-05, 05:11 PM

I did notice in the manual it stated that 1024x768 was reccomended to maximize the readability of fonts, but I think you would want to use the native resolution (1280x720p) when watching video content. I think I'm going to take another stab at making a custom resolution that eliminates as much of the overscan as possible.

I figured this one out by experimentation.

To put my HLR5667W into "PC Mode" (to get the wide-pc option, the "signal lock" options, etc) I had to go into the "name input" menu and select "PC" (so that when you hit the input button afterwards it says "PC PC" on the vga input. That did the trick... woo hoo!

By the way, neither Samsung level 1 nor level 2 tech support knew this. I was supposed to get a mail from engineering with a fix/explanation, but that was more than a week ago and I got tired of waiting.

So "PC" puts the vga input into "PC" mode (only a problem with 1280x720, which defaults to DTV mode even on the vga input), and GAME puts the set into a reduced-lag mode. Samsung REALLY ought to document what these "names" do... figuring this out was really trying my patience on an otherwise great set.

--Jack

Nate Thompson

06-30-05, 06:02 PM

wanker

06-30-05, 09:37 PM

how do you turn on the DNle. I can run only the demo.

htwaits

06-30-05, 09:46 PM

how do you turn on the DNle. I can run only the demo.
If you have a HLR model it seems that DNIe is always on.

MatthewR

06-30-05, 11:34 PM

ak3883

06-30-05, 11:56 PM

Hello everyone, first post

I've actually read the entire thread(took me hours!) and there is a lot of great information on here. It's been a great help passing some time along while at work.

I am planning on ordering the HLR-5667W in a week or so. Because of a deal I can get through something that my company has, I get a decent discount, I was going to go with the 5067, but I got such a great deal I can step up to the 5667 :p Very happy about that

The major issues that stand out with this TV that i have picked up reading all 26 pages:

1) Can't turn DNle off, nothing we can do about that, just live with it.
2) PS2/Xbox issues... not a problem for me because i'm holding off till PS3, besides my gaming is done on the PC
3) Audio lag... won't be a problem for now, I'll have to wait a little before doing the audio part and getting some decent speakers and a reciever. I plan to use the TV speakers for now, or use my existing small 2ch Aiwa Mini system(60WX2), it's not too terrible, beats most tv speakers.

I know to buy a reciever that can insert an audio delay(I hope there are some under 1k?)

My only real question for now is this, a fairly simple one. I have to transport the TV up one straight flight of stairs with a door at a 90 degree angle(thank god it opens in) The only way it will be able to fit is if we bring the box up the stairs while carrying it on it's side. Will this do any damage to the TV? I know you should not lay it down on its screen.

I look forward to getting this thing, I already cannot stop thinking about it, and will be sure to report once I get it up and running.

pervtab

07-01-05, 11:50 AM

Thanks for the info... I also received that information from someone on the MythTV mailing list... I had been pulling my hair out trying to figure out how to get it into PC mode. Anyways, the screen fits for the most part, although I still have a 1/4" black bar on the top and left side of my screen even after adjusting. I'm not sure if maybe my modeline is a little bit off or what, but it is hardly noticable when you're watching something.

The picture looks fantastic... the LOTR DVD never looked better with my MythTV HTPC upconverting to 720p!

Ha! I thought your name looked familiar. Yeah, that was me mailing you on the mythtv-users list. And here I thought I was helping 2 different people :)

Once I got everything configured correctly I still had that 1/4" black bar all around my picture. As black as the blacks get on the HLRs it blends right into the bezel, though, so I don't really mind.

pervtab

07-01-05, 11:52 AM

i didnt' have to set anything at all for pc mode... i set the resolution to 1280X720 on the pc and plugged in the vga cable... as soon as i switched inputs it came up PC PC. all that was left to do was go to the menu and settings and have the TV self align the screen because a little was getting cut off ont he right side.

Matt

It worked this way for me too under MS Windows (well, I didn't notice if it came up PC PC, but it was certainly in PC mode), but it seems linux/Xwindows confused the TV somehow. Manually setting the name to PC helped it figure it out.

Nate Thompson

07-01-05, 11:57 AM

Once I got everything configured correctly I still had that 1/4" black bar all around my picture. As black as the blacks get on the HLRs it blends right into the bezel, though, so I don't really mind.

Too funny, but thanks again for your help. I think I might try and use Powerstrip to tweak my 1280x720 mode just a little bit... on my screen, I only have black borders on 2 of the 4 sides (top and left). I'm going to see if I can either eliminate them, or atleast center the picture on the screen properly (creating 1/8" borders all the way around). I don't find it too distracting, but once I notice it I keep looking at it.

papayne

07-01-05, 12:42 PM

And I need your thoughts on how to best set it up...

I had originally planned to buy a "Kirk" 5085, but then I went to BB and saw the 5067 and gave in to temptation. It will be delivered on Wednesday and I'd like to know how other owners, or just those in the HDTV know, would wire it.

I have DirecTV with the TIVO- but I did not opt for the HDTV package or new HD TIVO. So the video out options available are just coax and S-Video. I'm concerned that with these connections, I'm not going to get the best possible signal to the TV, but don't know what else to do other than shelling out the money ($350) to get 5 HD channels- and I'm not likely to do that.

I plan to run S-Video out from the TIVO to the TV; Run HDMI from my Samsung HD850 (upconverting) DVD to the HDMI in on the TV; convert my X-BOX out to composite input for Component 1 in on the TV; and then output the audio from the TV's digital audio out to my Harmon Kardon AVR75- that powers my Paradigm speaker system (fronts, surrounds, center and sub). I will also be connecting my laptop on occasion to the PC in and my laptop is connected wirelessly to a gateway for Internet access. I'll run cat-5 from the X-box to the gateway too.

When it comes to wiring, I'm an idiot- and happily admit it. So I'm looking for some assurances that this is the best route to go.

I should add, that thanks to living in the third-world county in Va., I am currently receiving both DirecTV (for my TV programming) and Cable (from GMP) for Internet access- but I had to pay for Cable programming in order to get it. So, in effect, I could have two programming sources going into the TV. I guess I could just connect a Cable coax to the TV?

Any suggestions? Also, any tips on setting up the HLP5067 in general?

Thanks

bobcb

07-01-05, 12:52 PM

kjongsma

07-01-05, 12:57 PM

I have the HLR5067W and I hauled the set home in my minivan on its side. Assuming the carton is in good shape, the tv was well protected and I don't think you should have a problem as long as you don't bang it around...take your time...and plan your moves before heading up the stairs and measure...(used to deliver furniture for Levitz)The only thing I would add is for the time the box is flat, make sure the screen side is facing up. This allows the mirror to be supported by the cabinet and not be hanging.

cjlawson

07-01-05, 01:34 PM

I cannot tell if there in any lag on video games on my Xbox running at 480p. If there is it is not noticeable. I do have a gamecube that I do not use that runs some games at 480i. So I suspect that if there is a slight lag at 480p then there must be one at 480i. I called Samsung yesterday to discuss this with them. They said someone would call me back tomorrow which is today. I received a call from David who works in Level 2 support at Samsung.
He told me that if you label the input game it turns off two process that eliminate video game lag. I already have mine set to game which is Probably why I do not notice any lag.

I asked if one of the processes was DNIE and he said no.

spear

07-01-05, 02:19 PM

Too funny, but thanks again for your help. I think I might try and use Powerstrip to tweak my 1280x720 mode just a little bit... on my screen, I only have black borders on 2 of the 4 sides (top and left). I'm going to see if I can either eliminate them, or atleast center the picture on the screen properly (creating 1/8" borders all the way around). I don't find it too distracting, but once I notice it I keep looking at it.

I assume the picture is being scaled (no 1:1 pixel mapping) in your current mode. How does the resolution compare to when it had excessive overscan (but possibly a 1:1 pixel mapping)? I guess the extreme case would be a black and white plaid pattern, eg. in Linux/X11:

xsetroot -mod 2 2

but that's probably unfair. How about with 720p video?

MatthewR

07-01-05, 02:33 PM

ok i have a few questions and a statement.

the statement is that the manual says that there will be a black border around the screen when hooking up a PC but it seems like people assume this is not normal.

first question... isn't 1280x720 the same as 720p? i always thought that the PC output was progressive

second question... does the pc automatically upconvert a dvd when it plays it? or is there a special player that i woudl need?

Matt

auburn34

07-01-05, 07:20 PM

I just received my new HLR5667W yesterday. I love everything about this set except for the Xbox lag. I have read almost every posting on this topic and have tried all of the suggestions people have made. My Xbox is connected to Component 2 using the Xbox HDef cables. I have my Xbox set to output 480p and 720p. I have set my Component 2 input to GAME. I have turned off as much internal signal processing as I know how to do. But there is still a very noticable lag in my gaming. I don't understand how people are not seeing this. I can even notice it when I am simply in the Xbox dashboard tweaking the settings. When I press up on the controller, the response is not nearly what it was on my CRT TV that I'm been using the past several years. For a lot of games, it won't be too bad. But for MVP 2004, and anything where there is some kind of power meter, it is almost unplayable (probably a 100-200 ms lag which is huge when precision is a key element in being successful). Does anyone have any other tested solutions to this problem?

aaronwt

07-01-05, 07:48 PM

Is there a game setting for the input? That is supposed to eliminate some processing.

auburn34

07-01-05, 11:56 PM

Yeah...here is a sentence from my original post I have set my Component 2 input to GAME. Since I posted that, I played a few games including Winning Eleven Soccer, NHL 2K5, Brothers in Arms and MLB 2004. The lag is not too severe (probably around 100-200ms) so it didn't have too much impact on every game except MLB 2005. But trying to time the pitching meter and swinging at a pitch with even a 100 ms delay is pretty tough. Another side note is that MLB 2004 is the only game I have that outputs 720p. I would think that would eliminate some processing overhead also since that is the native resolution of the TV. Oh well, it's not enough of a problem to make we want to return the set, but it is dissappointing. Any other ideas that anyone has on this subject would be appreciated.

htwaits

07-02-05, 12:40 AM

Another side note is that MLB 2004 is the only game I have that outputs 720p. I would think that would eliminate some processing overhead also since that is the native resolution of the TV.
Using component input the TV has to convert the 720p analog to digital. I don't know how much time that takes.

TimothyB

07-02-05, 01:31 AM

Using component input the TV has to convert the 720p analog to digital. I don't know how much time that takes.

Can you set the tv to display 480 with no converting to 720? This seems like stupid problem for a set to have, the hardware converting should be instant. Otherwise wouldn't the same lag happen to a dvd player connected with component and audio direct to the receiver, which I would think would be a comment setup.

A problem that is really preventing me from ordering. But I play to use it for the next gen consoles that will be 720 all the time and problem then have a way of connecting through dvi or vga of some sort.

TimothyB

07-02-05, 01:50 AM

If the tv's converting of the xbox resolution through component to 720p is what's causing the delay, maybe an external box can do it quicker and connect to the set through vga or dvi so the tv doesn't have to do anything.

Here's a product like that, but might have more features than needed:
Darn 5 post limit, go to NEWEGG and search for this product:
ViewSonic NextVision 6 (N6) TV Tuner Box - Retail, They have plent of photos and specs.

It's a device to turn a plain pc mointor into a tv and for connecting gaming consoles too. There are cheaper ones, I just showed this expensive one since it has component. There might be boxes like this without a tv tuner.

So.. Do you think a device like this might stop lag from consoles when connecting to dvi or vga (dvi with an adapter)?

htwaits

07-02-05, 03:16 AM

Can you set the tv to display 480 with no converting to 720?
720p DLP TV sets use a chip with micro mirrors to create 1280 x 720 pixels on the screen. All input has to be converted to 720p before it can be displayed on a 720p TV.

The same is true for 1080p DLP sets except that all inputs have to be converted to 1920 x 1080 before they can be displayed.

If the TV is a LCD or LCoS front or rear projection display device it's also true. All input has to be converted to the "native" resolution of the chip used to display the image.

If a game box or DVD player creates a digital 720p signal internally and syncs the sound and/or controls with that signal then there shouldn't be any delay. That's only true if the path to the display step in the TV is pure digital. Samsung's DVI and HDMI ports do have a pure digital path to display. Any other design or set up will delay the video image some amount.

Previous models from Mitsubishi and RCA use an analog step for all inputs. All inputs other than DVI and HDMI will only accept analog inputs. Like I said, I don't know how much time it takes to convert a digital signal to analog and then convert it back to digital.