I had my Sammy HLR5067W for about a month and took it back because I could not deal witht the gaming lag. There is DEFINATELY gaming lag (for any of you that are looking to buy it) and I could find no way to minimize it. I went with the JVC D-ILA and love it. I've only had it for 1 day and am very satisfied. The picture quality isn't quite as good as the Sammy's but there is ZERO PS2/X-box lag. And for those of you waiting for the PS3/X-box 360.....If you have lag with the PS2/Xbox on the Sammy, you will have it on the next generation gaming systems too. It has nothing to do with the up or downscaling and everything to do with the digital processing that goes into outputting the video signal. Just thought I'd give my 2 cents cause I went through it too.

I assume the picture is being scaled (no 1:1 pixel mapping) in your current mode. How does the resolution compare to when it had excessive overscan (but possibly a 1:1 pixel mapping)? I guess the extreme case would be a black and white plaid pattern, eg. in Linux/X11:

xsetroot -mod 2 2

but that's probably unfair. How about with 720p video?

I'll have to try the xsetroot experiment (good idea) when I get home (I'm out of town right now). 720p video is fantastic, though. Pre-rendered, non-filmlike movies (like the incredibles) really show off the resolution. I paused it a couple of times on detailed scenes and there was no fuzziness, jagged edges, etc even at 6 feet away. If it's not a 1-to-1 mapping it's definitely plenty good. BTW, my setup is a linux MythTV HTPC (my PC/video card does all the upconversion/deinterlacing). One caveat: although I shopped around a lot and looked at a bunch of other TVs, I don't consider myself a videophile. So what I really like you might consider substandard. But maybe a quote from my wife puts it in perspective: "Well, I don't like it in the living room, but that's a damn fine TV" (I'm supposed to be finishing a room for the TV in the basement... right now the 56 inches cover a good part of 2 windows in the living room :)

There's definitely scaling going on... to eliminate the overscan the set (according to the manual, anyways) scales the input signal to 92% of it's original size.

I connected via DVI/HDMI when I first got the set and I didn't notice a difference so obvious that it jumped out at me. I supposed I could check both against some of the DVE test patterns when I get a chance but that might be a while. Right now I'm in the "gee, that look REALLY GOOD" on the vga port, so I'm in no rush to play with DVI (which I can now use for my on-its-way HD DVR cable box). I'm sure at some point, once I've got everything setup just right and have nothing left to tweak, I'll start playing with that again :)

--Jack

I'm sure this has been mentioned...but flipping through all these pages to find a response was tedious :(

What resolution are you guys using for your HTPC connected via DVI -> HDMI ?
1280x720 i'm sure, right?

HDTV playback looks GREAT...but there is a small amount of screen size loss...just around the edges. not that bad.

I guess I have to deal with it? (i'm using powersurge by the way.....ATI 9800 pro video card)

What resolution are you guys using for your HTPC connected via DVI -> HDMI ?
1280x720 i'm sure, right?
Right. HLP5063 HTPC-DVI to TV-DVI -- it's the same thing.

HDTV playback looks GREAT...but there is a small amount of screen size loss...just around the edges. not that bad.
That's TV industry over scan. With a HLP set using "Expand" mode you can get it down to ~1.5% with 1x1 bit mapping. The HLR sets don't seem to have that option.

I guess I have to deal with it? (i'm using powersurge by the way.....ATI 9800 pro video card)
Hang out in the Home Theater Computer forum. You may find some HLR tips there.

thanks :)

thanks :)
You're welcome.

Can anybody tell me a little bit more about the "lag" issues on the HLR series. I am not a gamer and don't have an Xbox or PS2.

I am wondering if I would experience the same type of lag, though, if I use my AV Receiver in my setup. I would connect my DVD with Component video directly to the TV and have the audio go via optical to the receiver. Is there a delay/lag with that type of setup?

If so, is there a way to compensate for it?

Would you guys recommend that I set it up differently, somehow?

I don't know if there are any newer receivers out there that also have component video inputs and that would have both the audio and video go through the receiver. My receiver doesn't have it.

thanks
:)

I received my hlr4667w yesterday. I changed the name to HD STB (its faster than GAME). the delay was like 50ms. Pretty much nothing. I was able to play Ninja Gaiden on the hardest level (and if you guys know that game, timing is EVERYTHING). I had excellent reaction time. I also play ghost recon: island thunder, Ghost recon 2, Halo 2. HD STB is the way to go.

I received my hlr4667w yesterday. I changed the name to HD STB (its faster than GAME). the delay was like 50ms. Pretty much nothing. I was able to play Ninja Gaiden on the hardest level (and if you guys know that game, timing is EVERYTHING). I had excellent reaction time. I also play ghost recon: island thunder, Ghost recon 2, Halo 2. HD STB is the way to go.


What is HD STB?

What is HD STB?




It's one of the names you can put to the inputs. It's like three choices below GAME. I'm playing halo2 now. I notice a little bit, but i'm still kickin a55. I'm going to rent enter the matrix (1080i) and sould caliber (720p) later on today, an see if I notice it at all.

It's one of the names you can put to the inputs. It's like three choices below GAME. I'm playing halo2 now. I notice a little bit, but i'm still kickin a55. I'm going to rent enter the matrix (1080i) and sould caliber (720p) later on today, an see if I notice it at all.

If you are asking what do the letters mean:

H...High
D...Definition
S...Set
T...Top
B...Box

I received my hlr4667w yesterday. I changed the name to HD STB (its faster than GAME). the delay was like 50ms. Pretty much nothing. I was able to play Ninja Gaiden on the hardest level (and if you guys know that game, timing is EVERYTHING). I had excellent reaction time. I also play ghost recon: island thunder, Ghost recon 2, Halo 2. HD STB is the way to go.

I will try this when I get home. I hope you are right. I have tried renaming my Component 1 inputs but have not tried HD STB yet. I also have a call into Samsung's support help desk. I have to believe that this is somthing that could be fairly easily fixed by a firmware patch. All you would need to do is allow the user to disable any "extracurricular" video processing for a particular input.

...am I reading this correct that just changing the name ("typing" in something different) changes how it affects the picture??

Pardon my ignorance, but I couldn't find a setting for GAME on my TV. Am I just overlooking it?

...am I reading this correct that just changing the name ("typing" in something different) changes how it affects the picture??

Pardon my ignorance, but I couldn't find a setting for GAME on my TV. Am I just overlooking it?

No. It has to do with the setup for each input. There is a "Name" property for each input (in this case, Component 1 for my Xbox). You can assign it a name from a pick list which gives you options like "DVD", "GAME", "HD STB", "Cable", etc. There is a theory floating around that certain choices add/remove additional display processing that is done to the signal which could add to or subtract from the amount of delay that occurs in displaying the image.

Has anyone tried the 720p games on the xbox? I tried going to blockbuster, but they are all sold out (of EVERYTHING!!!). I trying to see if the 50ms lag, will be eliminated on signals 720p and up. Reply if you have tried it out.

Has anyone tried the 720p games on the xbox? I tried going to blockbuster, but they are all sold out (of EVERYTHING!!!). I trying to see if the 50ms lag, will be eliminated on signals 720p and up. Reply if you have tried it out.

Yeah, the game that I am having the most trouble with as far as lag is MVP 2004 which is 720p. But that is mainly because so much of that game is based on precision meters in which even a 100 ms lag makes it almost unplayable.

Your suggestion to change the input name to HD STB did seem to help though. I just played a game and it didn't seem as bad. I'm not sure if that is really the case or if I am just getting used to the lag. Maybe I'll hook up my CRT real quick and test it out.

I wish Samsung could send out a firmware upgrade that would allow me to bypass any extra video processing for a particular source if I wanted to. I would happily give up a little visual quality to eliminate the lag. This will be an issue with Xbox 360 as well since I am seeing it on 720p games.

TV GUIDE Feature:

I got my HLR5067 last week and very pleased with the PQ. HD OTA channels are
amazing. SD and DVD are really better than what I had with CRT TV. Not tried HDMI and
DVI interfaces yet.
One question I have is TV GUIDE feature. I did follow all the instrcution as
per the screen and still the listing is empty even after a few days. The cable box channel
seem to blink and finally settles at higest channel ( 700 something) and stays there
the next morning. That means IR of GNet and the cable box seem to exchange some
info. Still wondering how to debug this. Has anyone had success with this feature?

Can anybody tell me a little bit more about the "lag" issues on the HLR series. I am not a gamer and don't have an Xbox or PS2.

I am wondering if I would experience the same type of lag, though, if I use my AV Receiver in my setup. I would connect my DVD with Component video directly to the TV and have the audio go via optical to the receiver. Is there a delay/lag with that type of setup?

If so, is there a way to compensate for it?

Would you guys recommend that I set it up differently, somehow?

I don't know if there are any newer receivers out there that also have component video inputs and that would have both the audio and video go through the receiver. My receiver doesn't have it.

thanks
:)

I am still wondering about the first part of my original question, in terms of lag for just regular DVD playback and having the video connect via component out and the audio via the receiver.

Does anybody have any experiences that they would like to share?

I am still wondering about the first part of my original question, in terms of lag for just regular DVD playback and having the video connect via component out and the audio via the receiver.

Does anybody have any experiences that they would like to share?

I'm using that exact setup. I have a progressive scan (but not scaling) dvd player. I have the stereo outputs going directly to the tv, and the optical output going directly to the AVR. There is very minor lag, but it's only noticable if you crank up the tv volume and the receiver volume together. You can then detect they are slightly out of sync, as it sounds a little echo-y. But playing just the AVR it is undetectable.

I think because my dvd player is putting out 480p, the tv doesn't have to do as much processing. If you have a non-progressive dvd player, it might be worse.

TV GUIDE Feature:

I got my HLR5067 last week and very pleased with the PQ. HD OTA channels are
amazing. SD and DVD are really better than what I had with CRT TV. Not tried HDMI and
DVI interfaces yet.
One question I have is TV GUIDE feature. I did follow all the instrcution as
per the screen and still the listing is empty even after a few days. The cable box channel
seem to blink and finally settles at higest channel ( 700 something) and stays there
the next morning. That means IR of GNet and the cable box seem to exchange some
info. Still wondering how to debug this. Has anyone had success with this feature?

Are you by chance on a Cablevision cable system? TV Guide does not currently work on Cablevision systems. It has to do with some dispute between Gemstar and Cablevision on the technology.

Are you by chance on a Cablevision cable system? TV Guide does not currently work on Cablevision systems. It has to do with some dispute between Gemstar and Cablevision on the technology.

I am on Comcast Cable in Bay Area.

I also have standard cable with Comcast in the Seattle area and it's been almost a month and there is just no listing in TV Guide.

Also, on a black screen (channel with no signal) I can see a faint white patch the size of a quarter. Looks like some light is leaking. Is this normal and if not how should I deal with it?

hey guys, regarding PIP. Can you guys put the component inputs in the small PIP window, or do split screen and swap? I know the previous DLPs couldnt do this, but i know on mine i can, and it was mentioned earlier that you couldnt on these. i havent tried both components side by side, but i will tonight, to see what happens.

subwoofer, dont worry, ill still get that pic of my PC for you on the DLP.

also, just a game update, the ONLY lag i am experiencing is when playing the first ESPN NBA game on xbox, and the lag is when shooting freethrows only. when playing NBA 2K5 booting up off the PS2 harddrive, there is no delay at all.

just in case i was tricking myself into not seeing the delay, i had my parents and friends play the TV too, without mentioning any delay to them at all, and none seemed to notice on any games we played (we didnt play ESPN NBA). i have both settings set to GAME, and DNR off on both.

to answer my own question, yes, i can do split screen component PIP.

here is a picture with my PC connected to it, 1024x768 @60Hz. the first pic is an unadjusted picture, the second is after i changed the image size slightly under the Wide PC setting.

im really sorry about the quality of the pics, i just moved in my apartment, the lighting is low, and the camera is bad to begin with, and with a dying battery, i just rushed the pics. but as you can see, set to Wide PC and adjusted, its really not cutting off ANY of the screen. if i let the TV auto adjust, it cut off too much, but when pressing P.Size it allowed me to adjust the image on my own, making it almost perfect, with NO black bars around the image til i set it to Wide TV.

Just ordered my HL-R5667W this afternoon, it is being delivered on Friday!!! :D
With the deal I got through Buyer's Edge, I got a 5yr contract, and delivery for about the price of the 5067 at BB, not including delivery and/or tax :p

I will report back on how setup goes, I only have a 2ch audio setup for now, so I plan to feed the audio into the stereo from the audio out on the TV.

I was reading some other forums, and I'm curious to see if my SD picture is going to be better than "average", Comcast here(Philly suburbs) has gone to digital simulcast on many channels, from what I understand this means it is a pure digital signal, just like Dish Network or DirectTV has. I am wondering if those channels will be better than just plain old analog cable on this tv.

This is going to be the longest 2 days of work ever! :rolleyes:

I have an hlr6167w and have a screen defect. There is a (thin) vertical line on the screen about 3" to the left of the center of the screen. The best way to describe it is if I take a dark grey piece of paper and fold it in 2, then unfold it, there is a "fold line". This is what my tv looks like (only when the screen is off or dark scenes, it's imperceptible when the screen has a bright image on).

I called Samsung Customer Service and asked them to send a repair tech, which theyh're going to do, but the interesting thing is I asked about the TV Guide not working (I've had the tv for a week and a half). They said that there is a documented problem with Comcast and the TV Guide. There is a procedure that must be done, and they're going to schedule another tech to service this. So if you're having problems with Comcast and TV Guide you might want to give Samsung a call.

I was reading some other forums, and I'm curious to see if my SD picture is going to be better than "average", Comcast here(Philly suburbs) has gone to digital simulcast on many channels, from what I understand this means it is a pure digital signal, just like Dish Network or DirectTV has. I am wondering if those channels will be better than just plain old analog cable on this tv.

I have Comcast (Atlanta) and did not order their digital or HD package, but do get the local HD and the digital simulcast through the tuner. There is a huge difference on the pq in relation to the analog (The digital signal is not perfect, but my analog is pure crap). I deleted most of the analog channels (there were 9 that were not simulcast that I was interested in). I think you will be pleased with this (and no cost added, to boot!).

Congratulations on your tv. I got mine in anticipation of the XBOX 360. November can't come soon enough.

I just moved in a couple weeks ago, and am getting away cheap till the end of the year with promotions: Digital+HBO $30/mo plus HSI for $20/mo and free modem, kit, BB card, etc)

I'll be able to try out the HD stations on cable right away, until I get rid of this crap Motorola 6412 box and get one that can handle HD. They might not even charge me since technically I do have "digital silver" which is listed as no addt'l charge for HD box, but since i have a promotion they might. I also will probably just splurge and get the HD-DVR since i'm getting it for so cheap now anyway.

Our analog actually is pretty decent, and i'm doing research and learning a lot about this DS thing and how the signal(s) actually work. This explains both the outages last week, and pixelating when watching TCM a week ago, both due to DS.

No Xbox or PS2 right now, i'm holding out for Xbox 360 or PS3. And HD-DVD, the future is looking brighter for this bad boy to shine.

...until I get rid of this crap Motorola 6412 box and get one that can handle HD.

The Motorola 6412 is a HD DVR ... change your settings, it is very nice.

When I am watching DVD movies, the horizontal lines are not really straight across the tv. they dip alittle in the middle. Now I know like everyone else in this forum, we want everything perfect. Is there a way that I can fix this. Does this have to be done in the service menu, and if so how do I get in there. I will write all my info down first, what do I need to adjust to make my horizontal and vertical lines look straighter. Please help.

The Motorola 6412 is a HD DVR ... change your settings, it is very nice.

Yea i'm an idiot... just because the trick to get to the diag menu works on my box doesn't mean it is a 6412... actually it's not even a motorola it's a GI 2224 or something according to the label on the bottom, but it looks exactly the same as a Motorola box I had last year.

And to be fair the picture looks decent on it, and all the functions it does have work. I just want more!

See this excitement on the tv coming friday is messing with my head :cool:

to answer my own question, yes, i can do split screen component PIP.

here is a picture with my PC connected to it, 1024x768 @60Hz. the first pic is an unadjusted picture, the second is after i changed the image size slightly under the Wide PC setting.

im really sorry about the quality of the pics, i just moved in my apartment, the lighting is low, and the camera is bad to begin with, and with a dying battery, i just rushed the pics. but as you can see, set to Wide PC and adjusted, its really not cutting off ANY of the screen. if i let the TV auto adjust, it cut off too much, but when pressing P.Size it allowed me to adjust the image on my own, making it almost perfect, with NO black bars around the image til i set it to Wide TV.thanks for the pics...

I also have the image slightly cut off using 1024x760....so what did you change the resolution to that improved it? (and btw...are you using powersurge? I have an ATI card and i'm thinknig of using the catalyst program instead of powersurge)

Can anyone tell me if they see the Halo effect on these sets? I have a deposit down on the 46 and the store says that I can't return it if it's not broken and they don't consider halo broken. I don't see any in the store, but I have heard of people getting them home and then having headaches for days.

Anyone?

I would purchase it from another store. Most stores have a 30day, no questions, return policy. If the store doesn't let you return it, I wouldn't shop there.

thanks for the pics...

I also have the image slightly cut off using 1024x760....so what did you change the resolution to that improved it? (and btw...are you using powersurge? I have an ATI card and i'm thinknig of using the catalyst program instead of powersurge)

i didnt actually change my resolution to anything. when in the PC mode, you can press the P.Size button and it will tell you 'Wide PC'. i changed mine to Wide TV and there was little icons at the bottom of the picture that you can select, to move the picture up and down, one to sorta zoom in on the picture, and another one. i used the 'zoom in' one to get rid of the black bars on the side and top and bottom from the Wide TV setting. doing this actually made it fit better than the auto adjustment. i left all my PC settings alone. im also not using powersurge or anything else, just connecting to my laptop (HP ZE 4300) and hitting F5.

So I'm just about ready to pick up the HLR4667W sometime this weekend. I had a few quick questions (this thread has been really helpful but I haven't seen solid answers for these)

I have just extended (not digital) cable at my house (TW Columbus,OH). Will I be able to receive any HD channels without calling up TW or buying an extra antenna? I am semi confused if the built in tuner counts as an antenna, or if I do need to purchase something extra in order to get OTA HD?

Also, a lot of people have been talking about the PiP, I'm just curious what are your options as far as using the split screen PiP. This is an awesome feature to me and I'm just wondering what inputs I'll be able to use this with.

Thanks.

So I'm just about ready to pick up the HLR4667W sometime this weekend. I had a few quick questions (this thread has been really helpful but I haven't seen solid answers for these)

I have just extended (not digital) cable at my house (TW Columbus,OH). Will I be able to receive any HD channels without calling up TW or buying an extra antenna? I am semi confused if the built in tuner counts as an antenna, or if I do need to purchase something extra in order to get OTA HD?

The HLR4667W has two coax inputs. One can be used for an OTA antenna and one can be used for cable. Both can be hooked up at the same time and used independently.

IIRC correctly, federal law requires that cable companies provide locals in HD if they are available. At least with Comcast and my "lifeline" basic TV subscription, I get low channel analogs (locals, shopping & TV guide), a couple of local HD channels, plus a bunch of SD digital stuff that appears to be secondary channels associated with the local digital broadcasts.

thanks for the quick response.

Just to clear this up. Lets say I had no cable what so ever. If was to just buy the TV I would not be able to receive an OTA reception would I? I need to buy some sort of antenna to hook up correct? There is no built in antenna, just a tuner?

Also, a lot of people have been talking about the PiP, I'm just curious what are your options as far as using the split screen PiP. This is an awesome feature to me and I'm just wondering what inputs I'll be able to use this with.

Thanks.

i can do split screen on all my inputs, which currenty consists of RF, S video, Comp1 and Comp2. the only thing i cant do split screen on is the PC input, which forces me to use the small or large PIP window. i cant comment on HDMI though because i dont have a source for that.

BTW, mine is a 5667W.

thanks for the quick response.

Just to clear this up. Lets say I had no cable what so ever. If was to just buy the TV I would not be able to receive an OTA reception would I? I need to buy some sort of antenna to hook up correct? There is no built in antenna, just a tuner?


if you have no cable service at all, you CAN get OTA broadcasts if you put up an antenna. the TV has a built in NTSC/ATSC receiver to get standard broadcasts OTA and HD OTA, but no built in antenna, you are correct. so to get the OTA standard and HD broadcasts, use either an indoor or outdoor antenna, depending on your area, and connect it to the AIR connection on the back of the TV.

Just to clear this up. Lets say I had no cable what so ever. If was to just buy the TV I would not be able to receive an OTA reception would I? I need to buy some sort of antenna to hook up correct? There is no built in antenna, just a tuner?Well, yes. All you need is a standard OTA antenna.

That's one of the nice things about the HLR series that the older sets didn't have - integrated OTA and cable tuners.

Just wanted a clarification.. The HLR5067 has been lagging on everything? I was just about ready to place an order for one, but this issue has caused me to stop and wait... I don't mind laggy audio, as that can be fixed by an Audio Delay, but laggy XBOX isn't going to work for me. Has anyone confirmed that this is not an issue with the DILAs?

Hi fellow owners,

I am having issues with my DVD picture qualities on my 4667. Here is the setup I have

- Sitting 12 ft. from the TV, eye-level is mid-point of TV
- Floor lamp (100W) 3 feet away on my left
- Trying 2 different DVD setups....first one was a regular panasonic 480p progressive scan connected via component. second one is samsung hd850 connected via HDMI

I am having issues with skin tones in the dark look HORRIBLE. ...particular example is Frodo/Sam in Mordor...I have attached a picture and you can see how the skin doesnt look right. I have tried the THX optimizer that I have on one of my DVDs. I thought that it might have been the 480p so I got the upconverting player. the picture is using the hd850....the picture seems to be pretty much the same even with the 720p/1080i output from the DVD player.

I am at odds on how to fix this...shots in the sun look fine. So does HDTV movies...matrix reloaded on HBO HD looked fantastic (even the dark scenes)

Any help/suggestions that you guys might have will be appreciated. SI this something I can fix by getting a DVD caliberation disk.

Thanks,
Cat

Well it came today, in the pouring rain of course, but it came. Delivery men knew what they were doing. I got a little worried when they set it down in the standing water in the parking lot to get a hand truck under it, but they said it had some kind of mini-pallet on it in the box. Then before my door, they just took the box right off, leaving nothing but the thin plastic bag protecting the tv from the pouring rain! By the time i got the bag w/ the remote/manuals and ripped off the upc on the cardboard, they already had it upstairs and through the door I spent 15 minutes measuring and wondering if it would fit(turns out they didn't even have to rotate it!)

Didn't power it on till after work, but came home and turned it on, started with plain cable feed, works great, no DOA, no dead bulb, everything so far works.

I've had a chance to play with it for a couple hours, and here are some things I'm noticing:

Rainbows: Didn't see them at first, but when flipping through channels, I can definetly see them. I do not know if it will drive me insane yet or not. We'll see, but I definetly can see them. If I just dont' think about it and just "watch" then it's not bad at all. If I just sit and watch TV or a movie, I don't really notice them. If I think about it I find I notice them more.

Audio lag: None on just the tv speakers(duh), slight lag on my reciever, but definetly watchable. I am just in 2ch for now though.

Channels: I have Comcast Digital, so I plugged in right to the wall, not using the box, and it found some 300 channels! Going through, i can get all the Music Choice channels, preview channels(comcast should really kill some of these, to free up bandwidth!) a couple scattered digital cable channels(G4, couple others), and i seemed to stumble on ESPN Classic, WHICH WE DON"T EVEN GET HERE!?!?! That floored me. Also found a slew of movie channels, I am not really sure what they are, the movies that were on I could not find listed on starz,max,hbo etc.

HD: Getting worried I wouldn't find the HD's, but I found them :D All the major networks, CBS,ABC,FOX,NBC,UPN,PBS,WB I got the HD feeds. They almost all had something in HD on tonight, i was impressed and I haven't even touched any settings! Pbs had something on about food and places to go in Paris I think, it was pretty neat, who cares what it is it's HD! All of them were a full 16:9 and clearly optimized for HD.

DVD: I have a Sony 480p player hooked up w/ componant. Looks pretty good for not upconverting I guess, I was happy with it.

Tomorrow I will go to Comcast and upgrade to an HD-DVR box, and connect with component for now until I get the HDMI-DVI cable in the mail that I ordered last night.


But so far so good(except the rainbows) I am definetly happy so far.

I am having issues with my DVD picture qualities on my 4667.
You left out some important information.

Is your Samsung upscaling DVD player set up for a 16x9 display? It probably came out of the box set for a 4x3 display.

Do you have the Samsung DVD player set to output 720p?

What Picture settings are you using on the TV to view DVDs?

You might want to get a copy of "Digital Video Essentials" to calibrate the user settings. I was able to get outstanding skin tones using that DVD on our October build HLP5063 and Cinema mode.

You left out some important information.

Is your Samsung upscaling DVD player set up for a 16x9 display? It probably came out of the box set for a 4x3 display.

Do you have the Samsung DVD player set to output 720p?

What Picture settings are you using on the TV to view DVDs?

You might want to get a copy of "Digital Video Essentials" to calibrate the user settings. I was able to get outstanding skin tones using that DVD on our October build HLP5063 and Cinema mode.

It is 16x9 and 720p

Have tried all settings (Dynamic, Standard, Movie)

I am planning on getting a calibration disc, more likely AVIA than DVE since I am very new to this and dont have the expertise probably needed to navigate DVE

I am planning on getting a calibration disc, more likely AVIA than DVE since I am very new to this and dont have the expertise probably needed to navigate DVE
Why do you think it's more difficult?

DVE was developed after digital TVs were available. Avia is from purely CRT times. People have used both and gotten good results. I used DVE for my first attempt and I thought the results were good.

If you calibrate with either one, and still don't care for the detail you are getting in dark scenes, try calibrating again after setting gamma to zero in the service menu. That has worked for a lot of people who own earlier models.

Have had a HLR4667W unit now for a few weeks and all is going well. Was a replacement for a JVC 52 model that had excessive fan noise.

One question. Is there a way to adjust the panarama mode on how the strecth is done? The center looks very good but the sides are streched quite a lot. We also have a Mits set and it streches the sides less, and looks better. Perhaps a system service menu option...

Ed

Hey guys. I have a hlr6167w and I've noticed alot of video noise in white/light color backgrounds. Is this a downside to dlp's or do you think a service call is in order? Any help much appreciated.

Thanks

Hey guys. I have a hlr6167w and I've noticed alot of video noise in white/light color backgrounds. Is this a downside to dlp's or do you think a service call is in order? Any help much appreciated.

Thanks


Question Number 1 from me would be : Are you using clean power? I know some people think these power filter/conditioner things are hooey but 9 time out of ten this type of static is coming in right through your AC power.

QB

Quickbeam, I don't have it on a line conditioner, just a tripp lite surge protector.

Thanks for replying

Is there a way to adjust the panarama mode on how the strecth is done?
No.

The center looks very good but the sides are streched quite a lot.
Why are you using panorama mode?

Anyone here have the 4667w with a good stand? I need some suggestions because I want a stand that is thin but has to be at least 51" wide for my speakers to fit onto.

Anyone here have the 4667w with a good stand? I need some suggestions because I want a stand that is thin but has to be at least 51" wide for my speakers to fit onto.

I have the Samsung 46X3 stand under my 4667W. It is intended to hold 46, 50 and 56-inch models. It's done by adding metal spacers - 46" no spacer, 50" a 3 3/4-inch spacer and 56" a 9 1/2-inch spacer. You should be good-to-go with the large spacer. That makes the stand 52 1/2 inches wide.
I bought mine for $198 from TV Authority. A perfect match to the TV with its floating screen design.

Anyone here have the 4667w with a good stand? I need some suggestions because I want a stand that is thin but has to be at least 51" wide for my speakers to fit onto.

You might find some ideas here: http://www.racksandstands.com/. I've purchased a couple of items from them.

Do these TVs have a function that turns the set on at a certain time and off at another? Not the sleep timer but something that works like this:

turn on at 8:00am - turn off at 9:00pm.

My cable provider (Time Warner Cable) uses a Pioneer cable box with Passport software. I understand that the Samsungs DLPs have cable card but would I be able of using the TWC information guide without the box?

Do these TVs have a function that turns the set on at a certain time and off at another? Not the sleep timer but something that works like this:

turn on at 8:00am - turn off at 9:00pm.

My cable provider (Time Warner Cable) uses a Pioneer cable box with Passport software. I understand that the Samsungs DLPs have cable card but would I be able of using the TWC information guide without the box?

Yes, the HLRs have an on/off timer function in addition to the usual sleep timer.
They have a cable card slot. You'd get the card from your cable provider.

Quick question, just nitpicking after I've had the weekend to play with the set

Is there a way to make the Motorola 6413 box display menus, information bar, and the guide in widescreen? Right now it only does in 4:3, so of course it leaves bars on each side. I have the output of it set to 720p, and it's connected with componant cables(until the HDMI-DVI cable comes in the mail later this week)

I've had the weekend to play with it like I said, I just love it! The only thing that kinda stinks is that I can definetly see rainbows on it. Don't seem to be as bad during the day, they are more noticable when it's totally dark in the room. The 6413 is a great box, I haven't really had any problems with it. SD looks about the same using that, as using the TV's tuner for the digital feed of channels.

I love how the TV's tuner picks up ESPN Classic, and we do not get that channel here :) There are several movie channels that sometimes are detected, I'm not sure if they are ondemand movies or ppv or what. Once it froze the picture, and the tuner had to reset in like 20 seconds, making me think I shouldn't be getting those channels...

I only have 2ch for now, the built in speakers aren't bad. The floating screen above the speaker centered in the middle is great. The virtual surrond mode sounds half decent. Can't use the mini system stereo now anyway, since the TV won't output audio from the audio out when it's on componant mode. I could go from the box to the stereo, but then lag will probably come into play.

http://www.racksandstands.com/prods/Bello/AVS-522T/0PBB0079.htm
This one is nearly perfect for me. Actually it is perfect (a bit expensive but hey, what the heck).

Anyone here own this stand?

http://www.racksandstands.com/prods/Bello/AVS-522T/0PBB0079.htm
This one is nearly perfect for me. Actually it is perfect (a bit expensive but hey, what the heck).

Anyone here own this stand?

They are always sending me 10% off coupons. I bet if you called them on the phone and asked them about getting 10% off they would probably give you the discount.

Can't use the mini system stereo now anyway, since the TV won't output audio from the audio out when it's on componant mode. I could go from the box to the stereo, but then lag will probably come into play.

It should output audio from the audio out when on component mode. If yours doesn't it's either not connected right, not set up right, or you have a defective TV. You've got an HL-Rxx67, right?

Jon

Quick question. If you get all your HD over the air (no stb), can you output the dd 5.1 to your tuner? If so do you just use an optical out? or what? -thanks

Quick question, just nitpicking after I've had the weekend to play with the set

Is there a way to make the Motorola 6413 box display menus, information bar, and the guide in widescreen? Right now it only does in 4:3, so of course it leaves bars on each side. I have the output of it set to 720p, and it's connected with componant cables(until the HDMI-DVI cable comes in the mail later this week)

I've had the weekend to play with it like I said, I just love it! The only thing that kinda stinks is that I can definetly see rainbows on it. Don't seem to be as bad during the day, they are more noticable when it's totally dark in the room. The 6413 is a great box, I haven't really had any problems with it. SD looks about the same using that, as using the TV's tuner for the digital feed of channels.

I love how the TV's tuner picks up ESPN Classic, and we do not get that channel here :) There are several movie channels that sometimes are detected, I'm not sure if they are ondemand movies or ppv or what. Once it froze the picture, and the tuner had to reset in like 20 seconds, making me think I shouldn't be getting those channels...

I only have 2ch for now, the built in speakers aren't bad. The floating screen above the speaker centered in the middle is great. The virtual surrond mode sounds half decent. Can't use the mini system stereo now anyway, since the TV won't output audio from the audio out when it's on componant mode. I could go from the box to the stereo, but then lag will probably come into play.

Yeah, the audio lip sync is a problem with this set, at least the way I have mine hooked up. When I feed the TV's analog audio inputs and my stereo from the STB's audio outputs, the stereo audio comes out AHEAD of the TV's audio. Apparently, there is a fixed delay by the TV to account for processing time of the various video modes it is likely to encounter. So it delays the audio to match. To workaround this, I feed the TV audio output (delayed) to the stereo instead, and that puts them in sync.
My stereo is a low-end HT in a box, and doesn't have digital audio inputs. So perhaps others can comment on whether this delay problem also exists in the digital domain.
Carl

To workaround this, I feed the TV audio output (delayed) to the stereo instead, and that puts them in sync.
My stereo is a low-end HT in a box, and doesn't have digital audio inputs. Carl

I believe the problem with this solution is the tv doesn't output a 5.1 signal, so you lose surround.

There is a "Digital Out" port on the back of the tv, its a optical out port. This should output 5.1 audio from the tv set. Correct me if I am wrong, but if everything is connected to the TV via component cables, and then using an optical cable for the audio, connet the audio output from the tv to a home theatre system, wouldn't this solve the audio video lag issue? I havent tried it yet, but was wondering if someone had. :confused:

There is a "Digital Out" port on the back of the tv, its a optical out port. This should output 5.1 audio from the tv set. Correct me if I am wrong, but if everything is connected to the TV via component cables, and then using an optical cable for the audio, connet the audio output from the tv to a home theatre system, wouldn't this solve the audio video lag issue? I havent tried it yet, but was wondering if someone had. :confused:

That's the way I have mine set up and you are right. That fixes the audio/video synch issue for me.

There is a "Digital Out" port on the back of the tv, its a optical out port. This should output 5.1 audio from the tv set. Correct me if I am wrong, but if everything is connected to the TV via component cables, and then using an optical cable for the audio, connet the audio output from the tv to a home theatre system, wouldn't this solve the audio video lag issue? I havent tried it yet, but was wondering if someone had.

If you are using component for video how are you routing audio to the tv? There is no optical in. The only way is OTA HD, cable card, or HDMI. I think HDMI has already been shown to not pass the 5.1 audio out of the tv's optical out. I think someone used a cable card and that lets you send 5.1 out of the tv's optical out. Don't know about OTA HD, but it is probably just like the cable card.

There is a "Digital Out" port on the back of the tv, its a optical out port. This should output 5.1 audio from the tv set. Correct me if I am wrong, but if everything is connected to the TV via component cables, and then using an optical cable for the audio, connet the audio output from the tv to a home theatre system, wouldn't this solve the audio video lag issue? I havent tried it yet, but was wondering if someone had. :confused:

you could theoretically do this, of course, but that means you are inputting 2 channel analog audio into the TV, and then only outputting 2 channel analog audio back through the optical connection to your HTS. yes it might eliminate lag, but it would also eliminate surround sound, where as you would obviously get the surround sound connecting your source unit optically to a HTS receiver.

you could theoretically do this, of course, but that means you are inputting 2 channel analog audio into the TV, and then only outputting 2 channel analog audio back through the optical connection to your HTS. yes it might eliminate lag, but it would also eliminate surround sound, where as you would obviously get the surround sound connecting your source unit optically to a HTS receiver.

Exactly. I should have been more clear. While the TV does have an optical out, you have to get full 5.1 in first, and the tv doesn't offer optical in.

The easiest solution is to have the AVR add the delay if needed, assuming yours has that feature. If buying a new one, that's something to consider.

Wanted to post this in the owner's thread as well....thanks for the help

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi, guys and gals. I've been reading this board for several months now and I finally jumped in the DLP game and bought a Samsung HLR5667W. I was extremely impressed with the settings straight out of the box until watching "Joy Ride" in HD on Fox last Friday night. First of all, before I get into specifics here is my setup.

Comcast (Motorola 6412) - DVI to HDMI...set to 720p output
Sony progressive DVD (can't remember the model #) - Component

During the movie, in the dark scenes inside hotel rooms, etc. the walls in the background would give off this awful red and green discoloration that almost looked like the sun reflecting off water. It only appeared in really dark scenes. I also saw the red discolorations in faces that many on here have discussed.

Then, the same thing happened on 'Into the West' on TNTHD last night. The scenes inside tents would be almost unwatchable because of this red and green glowing.

I tried basically everything. At first, I just had gamma set to the default of 2 and screwed around in the user menu. I used movie mode and turned the contrast down to around 60 or 70, cut the brightness down a bit, and turned DNR off. This didn't help. So, I turned gamma to 0 and used the above UM settings but still the problem was there.

Now, I'm at a loss and just changing things left and right in the UM. (Note: the only thing I've touched in the SM is the gamma setting which is now back to the default of 2)

I need help but I'm only going to be able to fix the easiest things if I have to go into the SM. I'm not skilled enough to 'tinker.' I don't have a desire to have the most perfect picture out there but I do want to be able to watch dark scenes. What I saw in the two shows mentioned above was unwatchable.

(Another note: I don't seem to have this issue on INHD or INHD2....could I have a source issue?)

Thanks for the opportunity...

Where can I find the HLRx67w in Canada? All I see is the 64 series.

(Another note: I don't seem to have this issue on INHD or INHD2....could I have a source issue?)

Thanks for the opportunity...

i would say it definitley sounds like a source issue. you might want to try splitting your cable from the wall, connecting directly to the TV, and seeing what channels you pick up there in HD, from the QAM tuner, and see if you still have the problem. or check DVDs and games as well, if applicable. i was watching family guy and a couple of other random things in HD last night (QAM tuner, i dont have a box) and didnt notice anything like what you describe, nor do i on any other sources.

i havent seen rainbows...is that what this is?

Where can I find the HLRx67w in Canada? All I see is the 64 series.


aydn, i saw you post this model in another thread, asking about the HLR5064W. What is this model? I am aware of the 67 series, which is obviously this thread, and the 77 series of HLR TVs, and even the rare HLP 74 series of last year, but I have never heard of this 64 series you are referring to.

i would say it definitley sounds like a source issue. you might want to try splitting your cable from the wall, connecting directly to the TV, and seeing what channels you pick up there in HD, from the QAM tuner, and see if you still have the problem. or check DVDs and games as well, if applicable. i was watching family guy and a couple of other random things in HD last night (QAM tuner, i dont have a box) and didnt notice anything like what you describe, nor do i on any other sources.

i havent seen rainbows...is that what this is?

Thanks for the response. Now that I think about it, I think I can rule out a source issue. I probably should've mentioned before that I've noticed the same result when using an antenna and just getting HD OTA.

And so far I'm only noticing it on HD programs.....(though, I haven't been watching a lot of SD since I got this set!)

Quick question,

Getting a HLR5667W delivered tomorrow.
My old HLN set that is being replaced used to have a DVI connection.
On the new set the connection is an HDMI.
I already bought a HDMI/DVI adaptor to go on the back of the TV in the HDMI input.
I am going to connect via DVI to my DVD player.
How do you recommend connecting the audio?
I know that HDMI carries audio but I am converting from DVI to HDMI.

Thanks.

I know that HDMI carries audio but I am converting from DVI to HDMI.
Not when it's going through a DVI port. Use a separate SP/DIF connection.

htwaits and AkaStp - Thanks for the replys.

I have the Samsung 46X3 stand under my 4667W. It is intended to hold 46, 50 and 56-inch models. It's done by adding metal spacers - 46" no spacer, 50" a 3 3/4-inch spacer and 56" a 9 1/2-inch spacer. You should be good-to-go with the large spacer. That makes the stand 52 1/2 inches wide.
I bought mine for $198 from TV Authority. A perfect match to the TV with its floating screen design.


Yup, I just got the Bello PVS-4207T

It looks PERFECT. It is 48" wide (but the tv fits perfectly because of the curved edge - 1/5 inch clearance on both sides). the stand is expensive though. But, you can't be the "AW" factor!!!

Why are you using panorama mode?

Most DirecTV programs are still 4x3. In normal 16x9 mode, the picture appears wrong. Panarama mode makes most of the picture look normal and stretches the edges more.

Our MITS set does a better job with less stretching at the edges and a slightly wider image in the center portions. Overall, a more pleasing image. Either image is still generally better than the standard 16x9 for normal 4x3 broadcasts.

Ed

No.

Does this also include using the system service menus? Many sets offer advanced adjustments in these areas.

Ed

Most DirecTV programs are still 4x3. In normal 16x9 mode, the picture appears wrong.
How does it appear wrong?

If 4x3 source material is displayed without any form of distortion (panorama or zoom) then you should see the unmodified 4x3 image with black bars on each side.

I have the Samsung 46X3 stand under my 4667W. It is intended to hold 46, 50 and 56-inch models. It's done by adding metal spacers - 46" no spacer, 50" a 3 3/4-inch spacer and 56" a 9 1/2-inch spacer. You should be good-to-go with the large spacer. That makes the stand 52 1/2 inches wide.
I bought mine for $198 from TV Authority. A perfect match to the TV with its floating screen design.

Would it be possible to have the spacers in there to make it a 52.5" wide stand and still be able to have the 4667w on top of it? I was curious about that setup because I want a stand that is wider than the tv.

Would it be possible to have the spacers in there to make it a 52.5" wide stand and still be able to have the 4667w on top of it? I was curious about that setup because I want a stand that is wider than the tv.

Yes, that's what I suggested to the fellow who wanted to put speakers on each side of his TV. Using the larger spacer, you'll end up with a stand that's over 52" wide.
The glass shelves will still be 35 or 36" wide, but they will handle two standard width (17") A/V components or satellite STBs side-by-side,

I was 100% going to but this tv, but have been slightly worried by some of the posts here. simply put, are there major reasons that i should not purchase this tv?

Is there anyway to get surround sound through a home theater system without this lag that people are speaking of? any way at all?

and if i should not buy this tv, what is acomparable 50inch in the same price range that does not present the same lag issues?

i will be using the tv mainly for basic viewing of sports, movies, and a little playstation 2.

How does it appear wrong?

If 4x3 source material is displayed without any form of distortion (panorama or zoom) then you should see the unmodified 4x3 image with black bars on each side.

I never display with side black bars.

Ed

I never display with side black bars.

Ed
In that case some distortion or excessive enlargement comes with the territory.
:)

just put the audio thru a sound system and you wont get any lag. I have my stb, xbox, and dvd player digital audio going through a sound system. No lag at all. People here should not flip out all the time and find faults with everything. The tv is amazing. Some people love this tv like me, and some people dont. But this will be with any tv. Try it out, you wont be disappointed.

I was 100% going to but this tv, but have been slightly worried by some of the posts here. simply put, are there major reasons that i should not purchase this tv?

Is there anyway to get surround sound through a home theater system without this lag that people are speaking of? any way at all?

and if i should not buy this tv, what is acomparable 50inch in the same price range that does not present the same lag issues?

i will be using the tv mainly for basic viewing of sports, movies, and a little playstation 2.

Ways that will definetly work include getting a reciever than has a sound delay fcn that actually delays the sound output for a time set by the user. Also there are devices that the audio passes through and it introduces a delay. I believe they are discussed in some of the prior pages of this thread.

I was set to get this TV hands down, then I read this thread, and did stop and think about it a little more, but I still decided to go with it, mainly because the specific problems weren't going to apply to me(at least not now), no xbox or HT audio system... yet :)

Bottom line, I am extremely pleased with the TV, I have the 5667W. Picture quality is outstanding, and the settings out of the box work fine for casual viewing, and with some tweaking and/or calibration dvd I know they can get even better. HD really shines with this unit, get a HD-DVR box like the Motorola 6413, and you are set!

I never display with side black bars.

Ed

Eww, how can you stand that? You either get the painful distortion of panorama, or the pan/scan cramped flaw-magnifying effect of zoom mode.

*shudder*

Eww, how can you stand that? You either get the painful distortion of panorama, or the pan/scan cramped flaw-magnifying effect of zoom mode.

*shudder*

It boils down to how well the TV stretch mode works. On our Mits set, it works quite well. On the Samsung it works less well. I was hoping that some system service menu might allow some tailoring of the Samsung.

Ed

Eww, how can you stand that? You either get the painful distortion of panorama, or the pan/scan cramped flaw-magnifying effect of zoom mode.

*shudder*

i never use panorama, cuz the weird edge stretching annoys me. but i have the TV set to wide all the time, meaning no black bars ever, and i can barely notice any stretching. in fact, it annoys me MORE to have the black bars on the side. i paid for a 56", i might as well watch a 56". but seriously, the stretching, fattening, widening, whatever of people, i barely notice it.

I just got the TV delivered last night. This set is replacing my HLN-507W that went out after about 2 years. Both my wife and I like the picture better on the new HLR than he old HLN. I was not expecting this as the HLN had a HD2 chip with no wobbulation and the new HLR has the HD4 chip with wobbulation. From my observation the HLR does have better contrast in dark scenes and also has a better picture quality with both standard and HD TV. We started watching the series Firefly on DVD last night and the picture was beautiful, very defined and with rich colors. I have a Bravo D1 that is connected via DVI/HDMI to the TV. I set the TV to the simulated surround sound and like it. This TV is up in our master bedroom and we do not have a surround system in place. Over all I am very happy with the TV.

i never use panorama, cuz the weird edge stretching annoys me. but i have the TV set to wide all the time, meaning no black bars ever, and i can barely notice any stretching. in fact, it annoys me MORE to have the black bars on the side. i paid for a 56", i might as well watch a 56". but seriously, the stretching, fattening, widening, whatever of people, i barely notice it.

I must be sensitive to it. I walk in to people houses all the time and immediately see their tv picture is distorted, and I'm always amazed they don't notice themselves.

I have the HLR5067w and love it. I see many references to changing the Gamma in the service menu to "0". Is that being done on the 5067 and if so, what does that do for me? BTW, I do see rainbows all the time, but my wife doesn't. What other adjustments from the factory set up have been made that make sense such as decreasing the brightness level etc??? Also, when using DVE or one of the other set up dvd's, are the adjustments that need to be made in the service menu?

i have the HLR5067 as well. Love it! Haven't noticed the rainbows. My only complaint is that i feel the HD picture could be better. Not that it's bad, in fact it's almost great, but it's not as crisp as i hoped it would be. I'm connected via component and may try and change to DVI, but i've heard mixed responsed regarding which is better so im not sure it's worth it.

What does setting the gamma to "0" do and how do you access the service menu?

yeah, i would really like to know what setting the gamma down to 0 does. i will search later, but i think i remember that it made it easier to see the detail in dark colors, but im not sure.

yeah, i would really like to know what setting the gamma down to 0 does. i will search later, but i think i remember that it made it easier to see the detail in dark colors, but im not sure.
That's right. :)

I've had the 5067 for 4 weeks now and I'm generally impressed. This is my first HDTV so I'm no expert but here are a few observations:

* Nice design/weight/dimensions.
* Colors are lifelike
* The screen is a mixed blessing. The anti-glare coating works great (don't have to close the curtains when I watch TV around 5 PM) but at the expense of clarity for light/white objects. On the whole, I prefer the screen the way it is, though.
* Remote control could be nicer with a Picture control button (to switch among Standard/Movie/etc.). I mean, who needs a button to switch DNIe demo on and off???
* Did notice a couple of smudges but it only happened when I had the AC blasting right behind the TV. Haven't seen it since that one day.

dwhitstanek: To get into service menu: (With TV off) Mute-1-8-2-Power. Picture quality is also heavily dependent on the STB or DVR you have. People have reported much better picture quality through the TV's own tuner.

Got my 5667 5 days ago, and the picture is the most beautiful I've ever seen on a TV. It's like looking out the window.....

I had a HD 46" ($;3) Hitachi before, and I miss 2 important (to me) features I used to have on the Hitachi and don't have (or don't know how to set) on the 67:

1. Device sensitive - When I turned on any of the peripherals connected to the Hitachi (e.g. DirecTV, DVD, VCR, etc.), the TV turned ON automatically, set to the device. Now it seems I need to turn the TV on separately, and then select the corresponding "source".

2. In the Hitachi I could disable the internal speakers, YET, the TV's volume controled the HT system. In the 67, if I tunr the MUTE ON, the TV's volume control is disabled, and only HTS remote controls the volume. This means that instead of using a single remote (the DirecTV's), I'm now bound to use multiple, 2 at least.

Has anyone encountered a solution to it?

Thanks for any input.

The 67 service code is a follwing:

1. Turn the TV OFF
2. On the remote, press "MUTE" button
3. On the remote, click "182" on the numbers pad
4. On the remote (make sure you're in TV mode), press the "POWER" button

The TV will turn ON in the service mode.

MAKE SURE YOU CHANGE NOTHING YOU'RE NOT ABSOLUTELY 100% SURE OF!!!!!!!!

At the end, turn the TV OFF. When you turn it ON again, it'll be back in "normal" mode.

Questions:
1. Has anyone on the forum accessed this menu before?
2. Are there any settings worth changing?
3. Is there a default/reset to factory settings, in case you/I do something wrong?

Thanks for any help.

1. Has anyone on the forum accessed this menu before?
Large numbers of people have accessed the service menu starting with the HLM models in 2002.

2. Are there any settings worth changing?
Changing gamma to 0 is the most common.

3. Is there a default/reset to factory settings, in case you/I do something wrong?
No. To be safe record all settings before you change anything.

Well, Samsung has finally agreed to exchange my defective HLR5667W tv for a new one (as I reported here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=547157 ).

Now I wait and hopefully get a GOOD one this time. Only will have taken 6 weeks.

i set my gamma down to 0 this weekend, and i really wasnt pleased with it. im trying it at 1 now, to see if i like that better. i guess i should say i havent used DVE to set up the TV yet, i should be doing that tonight, and maybe then the gamma at 0 will look better.

i set my gamma down to 0 this weekend, and i really wasnt pleased with it. im trying it at 1 now, to see if i like that better. i guess i should say i havent used DVE to set up the TV yet, i should be doing that tonight, and maybe then the gamma at 0 will look better.
Changing gamma isn't going to do any good if you don't combine it with DVE calibration.

I have had a HL-R4667W set now for a few weeks. One thing I have noticed lately is what I would call a splotchiness in the picture for mostly solid color objects. It is mostly seen on SD DirecTV channels when solid color objects are in somewhat low light. However the effect is still there for DVD source and to a much lesser extent HDTV DTV channels.

It looks like the pixels are quite large and somewhat visible. Almost as if shades of colors for a solid color object are limited on a small scale. As the brightness for a solid object changes across the surface, clear breaks are seen rather than a smooth color scale.

I have two other HD sets in the house and they do not show this effect. One is an older Mits set and the other a new JVC.

Any ideas?

Ed

I have had a HL-R4667W set now for a few weeks. One thing I have noticed lately is what I would call a splotchiness in the picture for mostly solid color objects. It is mostly seen on SD DirecTV channels when solid color objects are in somewhat low light. However the effect is still there for DVD source and to a much lesser extent HDTV DTV channels.

It looks like the pixels are quite large and somewhat visible. Almost as if shades of colors for a solid color object are limited on a small scale. As the brightness for a solid object changes across the surface, clear breaks are seen rather than a smooth color scale.

I have two other HD sets in the house and they do not show this effect. One is an older Mits set and the other a new JVC.

Any ideas?

Ed

Can you evaluate an HD OTA signal? Using DirecTV for evaluation is problematical. They downrez most of their HD broadcasts, and their SD data rate is typically only 2 Mb. It's a wonder it's as good as it looks.
Your other sets may do a better job with compressed and downrezzed video. But the true test of the HLR is what it will do with a 16-18 Mb HD broadcast. You should be most impressed - I am with mine.
Carl

Can you evaluate an HD OTA signal? Using DirecTV for evaluation is problematical. They downrez most of their HD broadcasts, and their SD data rate is typically only 2 Mb. It's a wonder it's as good as it looks.

DVDs can also be a problem, depending on the source material used and the quality specified during mastering. Even at best or minimal compression, they are only 480 lines of resolution.

DVDs can also be a problem, depending on the source material used and the quality specified during mastering. Even at best or minimal compression, they are only 480 lines of resolution.

Agreed. And if you're wanting to make a backup copy of a dual-layer (8.5 Mb) DVD, don't try to put it on a sinlge-layer (4.7 Mb) disk. 480p is bad enough - the 2-to-1 compression makes it nearly unwatchable! Go with two disks, and stretch your legs every two hours changing disks.

aydn, i saw you post this model in another thread, asking about the HLR5064W. What is this model? I am aware of the 67 series, which is obviously this thread, and the 77 series of HLR TVs, and even the rare HLP 74 series of last year, but I have never heard of this 64 series you are referring to.
Here is the Canadian product listing including the 64 series (720P). Samsung Canada (http://www.samsung.ca/cgi-bin/nasecabc/en/b2c/product/product_subtype.jsp?LoginFlag=NO&prod_path=%2fConsumer+Products%2fTV,+Video+%26+Audio%2fTV%2f DLP+TV) :) shesh, posting on AVS on a DLP from 13 feet back is fun.

Can you evaluate an HD OTA signal? Using DirecTV for evaluation is problematical. They downrez most of their HD broadcasts, and their SD data rate is typically only 2 Mb. It's a wonder it's as good as it looks.
Your other sets may do a better job with compressed and downrezzed video. But the true test of the HLR is what it will do with a 16-18 Mb HD broadcast. You should be most impressed - I am with mine.
Carl
Do not yet have OTA signal connected. Will try that later this week and see what it shows.

One good recent example was this past Sunday's 4400 episode. There is a scene were the Joel Gresch character enters a room with a body in the center. He enteres and very bright light is coming from behind him. You see his outline and lots of while light. On the Samsung the light spreads out in clear bands as the brightness falls from near him. On the Mits sets the light spreads out without bands and just fades as it should. Boith recorded on DTV Hughes DVRs.

Ed

I have had a HL-R4667W set now for a few weeks. One thing I have noticed lately is what I would call a splotchiness in the picture for mostly solid color objects. It is mostly seen on SD DirecTV channels when solid color objects are in somewhat low light. However the effect is still there for DVD source and to a much lesser extent HDTV DTV channels.

It looks like the pixels are quite large and somewhat visible. Almost as if shades of colors for a solid color object are limited on a small scale. As the brightness for a solid object changes across the surface, clear breaks are seen rather than a smooth color scale.

I have two other HD sets in the house and they do not show this effect. One is an older Mits set and the other a new JVC.

Any ideas?

Ed

I have the same problems with my 4667 on Insight cable in Columbus, OH. I also have a Sony GWII (50") in my basement and it looks considerably better than the Samsung using the same STB. I did several of the service menu tweaks suggested by UMR on the sony forums, which have resulted in an extremely smooth picture on the sony even on highly compressed video. I an unaware of any such tweaks for the Samsung. I talked to a local calibration guy and he suggested that he could calibrate the set to get rid of most of the artifacts that we are experiencing. I have tried running DVE and calibrating the set; however it does not seem to help with the artifacts.

I have the Samsung on an extended 60-day return policy from Circuit City. I will either try to calibrate it myself or return it for a Sony KDF-E50A10 when they become available. I am not comfortable paying for calibration if it does not work and I have to return the set.

I am having a new Motorola 6412 STB installed today, which is rumored to have better picture quality for analog and digital sources. I hope that this improves the Samsung.

I would also welcome any suggestions for improving the digital artifacts that we are experiencing.


Andy

TV Guide

I've had my 5067 for more than a month now and nothing coming through the TV Guide. My cable company is Comcast and the technician I talked to doesn't know much of this built-in TV Guide stuff. So no help there.

I'm in the Seattle area with zip 98012. Is there any trick you need to do to get it to work? Thanks.

Ron

TV Guide

I've had my 5067 for more than a month now and nothing coming through the TV Guide. My cable company is Comcast and the technician I talked to doesn't know much of this built-in TV Guide stuff. So no help there.

I'm in the Seattle area with zip 98012. Is there any trick you need to do to get it to work? Thanks.

Ron

I'm in the Atlanta area with Comcast and it also doesn't work for me. I called Samsung and they said many Comcast users are experiencing problems. They took my information but I haven't heard from them on this issue since. Try giving them a call and see what they say.

For HDTV cable information you might want to check this forum.

HDTV Hardware (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=25)

TV Guide

I've had my 5067 for more than a month now and nothing coming through the TV Guide. My cable company is Comcast and the technician I talked to doesn't know much of this built-in TV Guide stuff. So no help there.

I'm in the Seattle area with zip 98012. Is there any trick you need to do to get it to work? Thanks.

Ron

It's mainly intended for OTA signals. Both cable and satellite services have their own guides.

It's mainly intended for OTA signals. Both cable and satellite services have their own guides.I would respectfully disagree. I think its designed to be used with cablecards, so that you can bypass the cable company guides (and more importantly, replace the ads in those guides) and still preserve a guidelike experience using the TV set tuner.

I would respectfully disagree. I think its designed to be used with cablecards, so that you can bypass the cable company guides (and more importantly, replace the ads in those guides) and still preserve a guidelike experience using the TV set tuner.

I stand corrected. After reading through the user manual (40 pages), it is a VERY comprehensive guide, and IS intended for those with cable and/or OTA. I haven't had cable for over ten years, but vaguely remember their anemic attempt at on-screen guides.
Mine worked after I did an OTA scan, but is not intended to replace my two satellite TV service guides.

I need a few opinions here: I went to Tweeter tonight and was checking out their 5067 and a few other models. I already have a nice stand setup (its dimensions are the most important, its 52" wide). I would like to get either a 46 or 52 inch DLP and place the speakers on the stand with it. I was talking to a guy at Tweeter tonight and asked if it would cause sound problems by placing the left and right speakers on the stand and he said that I won't get as much of a stereo sound since they would be too close. Is this totally true? because right now I have my 32" CRT with the Left and Right speakers about 1 foot off of each side. And does anyone else here have a DLP tv with speakers fairly close to the tv?

thanks

After browsing for a long time and reading through this entire thread, I'm still a bit confused about the whole lip-syncing issue.

When people say they notice it, is it just very briefly or for the duration of the program/movie? I noticed a few people say they corrected it by using their DVD player's delay, so based on this I'm assuming it's during the entire movie. I'm asking because this issue sounds like it would be unwatchable.

It also appears alot of people have this problem with while watching HD and/or SD programming as well or if they're using purely digital connections. Is this because everyone's setup is different or is it an inherent problem in the Samsung HLRxx67w dlp sets?? Will I increase my chances of not having this problem if I used optical for sound and hdmi/dvi/component for video?

I'll be using Cox Cable (Orange County, Ca) for HD if that helps and a Sony progressive scan dvd player connected via component cables.

I'm asking this because I just bought a townhouse and I'm on the verge of purchasing my first HDtv and home theater system. More specifically, I'm looking at the 5067w and Yamaha RX-V1500 or 2500 receiver (with the 2500 having an audio delay). Ideally I'd like to save some money and get the 1500 but if the sound delay is going to be a huge issue, I'm hoping the 2500 will fix any and all potential lip-syncing issues. Would this be a correct assumption? If there is a way for me to wire things up so I don't have lip-synching issues to begin with that would be even better.

Thanks for your patience...

- Jon

After browsing for a long time and reading through this entire thread, I'm still a bit confused about the whole lip-syncing issue.

When people say they notice it, is it just very briefly or for the duration of the program/movie? I noticed a few people say they corrected it by using their DVD player's delay, so based on this I'm assuming it's during the entire movie. I'm asking because this issue sounds like it would be unwatchable.- Jon

My understanding is the lag should be consistent as opposed to coming and going. The time the tv spends processing a given signal should be constant.

From what I've read, how bad the delay is depends on a number of factors. My current setup is a progressive-scan dvd player connected with component cables. Optical audio is connected from the dvd player to my receiver. Standard stereo output is connected from the dvd directly to the tv. I have DNR turned off.

I do have a small amount of lag, but it is only noticable if I have both the tv and receiver turned up. This produces a minor echo effect since the receiver sound arrives slightly ahead of the tv sound. If I turn down the tv sound and use the receiver only I can't actually sense the delay, even when watching for it. My receiver does have a delay function but I haven't had to use it.

It does seem to be a your-mileage-may-vary kind of thing. But if your receiver has a delay function, you should be covered.

Three months in I have zero regrets about my HLR-5067. It's a great tv (and I'm a picky technosnob :)).

... he said that I won't get as much of a stereo sound since they would be too close. Is this totally true?

It's a typical YMMV issue. Basically, the sales person is correct... the better the separation of the speakers, the better the overall sound field image (stereo effect). According to Dolby Laboratories, you would typically need a 45 degree separation of the front speakers measured at the listener's head position to duplicate the perspective of the sound mixer. Most folks have not experienced this breathe of sound field because they usually do not have the space in a typical family room for that much separation (I sure don't!) . So, with the speakers on the stand you will have a stereo effect but it could be improved with more separation of the speakers. It's all up to what's needed to satisfy you.

I could not find the Dolby reference, but here's are some simple speaker placement recommendations from Radio Shack (which references the dolby reference): Home TV Layout Recommendations (http://support.radioshack.com/support_tutorials/audio_video/hometh-6.htm)

It's a typical YMMV issue. Basically, the sales person is correct... the better the separation of the speakers, the better the overall sound field image (stereo effect). According to Dolby Laboratories, you would typically need a 45 degree separation of the front speakers measured at the listener's head position to duplicate the perspective of the sound mixer. Most folks have not experienced this breathe of sound field because they usually do not have the space in a typical family room for that much separation (I sure don't!) . So, with the speakers on the stand you will have a stereo effect but it could be improved with more separation of the speakers. It's all up to what's needed to satisfy you.

I could not find the Dolby reference, but here's are some simple speaker placement recommendations from Radio Shack (which references the dolby reference): Home TV Layout Recommendations (http://support.radioshack.com/support_tutorials/audio_video/hometh-6.htm)

Nice link, I've seen some other websites similar to that one about recommendations. Also looks like I would be ok having my left and right speakers on a stand and with the center below. I never knew that you should have all front speakers at the same height. Right now my left and right are at the middle of the tv with the center sitting on top. Sounds good to me.

As for getting a HLR4667 or HLR5067 with a stand wider than the tv to place my satellite speakers on, I think I may be alright with this setup. My logic is that it would probably sound even better if I could get more space between them but if I get a wider tv than my 32" CRT, the speakers will be further apart anyway or the same that I have now. I have a 32" CRT and the side speakers (Left and Right) are about 10 or so inches from the side of the tv. The total distance from the left and the right is about 50 or so inches. So if I get 52" stand and a 4667w with speakers on the sides, then I should still get the same sound effect. Right?

... , then I should still get the same sound effect. Right?
Yes, Id agree. If you like your current sound field, the new one should be just as enjoyable because there will not be a significant difference (maybe even a small improvement) in speaker placement.

I have had my HLR5067W for 5 days now. I posted my initial impressions in
a different thread, before I noticed this "Owners Thread". Here is my story.

Beautiful TV and picture. We are getting 4 local HD feeds OTA using a
HD christmas-tree looking indoor antenna. All locals are perfect. Also, we
currently feed it DISH via S-video. Soon I will have an upconverting DVD
player - come on Big Brown Truck.

We find ourselves watching whatever crap comes OTA, as long as it is HD.
I'm sure that will wear off soon.

Minor complaints:
- In 5 days TV guide still is empty. It said it may take days to download though.
- Panorama - sucks big time. Annoying, almost funny picture. We don't use it.
- PIP seems much more complicated than it needs to be. You have to slide the
remote drawer open, or go through the Set-Up menu to change the PIP pic
or channel.
- Remote code for controlling the DISH PVR 510 using the Samsung remote
were not provided, and I haven't been able to find them. Anyone?

Overall. We are all delighted with the purchase, and glad we spent the extra
to get the HD tuner. There is no going back now.

Dan

ETA: The Big Brown Truck came today, with the Samsung 850
upconverting DVD player with HDMI cable included. Yet another
delight. Works perfectly. I played with the upconversion settings
and the native setting of the TV (720p) was the clearest at fine
detail. But all settings were pretty impressive.

I need a few opinions here: I went to Tweeter tonight and was checking out their 5067 and a few other models. I already have a nice stand setup (its dimensions are the most important, its 52" wide). I would like to get either a 46 or 52 inch DLP and place the speakers on the stand with it. I was talking to a guy at Tweeter tonight and asked if it would cause sound problems by placing the left and right speakers on the stand and he said that I won't get as much of a stereo sound since they would be too close. Is this totally true? because right now I have my 32" CRT with the Left and Right speakers about 1 foot off of each side. And does anyone else here have a DLP tv with speakers fairly close to the tv?

thanks

I have a pair of Sanus stands a few inches to the left and right of my 4667. Great stereo sound. However, these stands are designed to support only light-weight speakers. For my center channel speaker, I use Velcro, and simply place it on top of the screen. Again, the center channel speaker must be less than 7 lbs. for this to work.

For my center channel speaker, I use Velcro, and simply place it on top of the screen. Again, the center channel speaker must be less than 7 lbs. for this to work.
Another option for center channel speaker on top of tv is the OmniMount Center Channel Speaker Shelf. MSRP of $35 at most consumer electronics stores.
The specs say it can hold up to 30 pounds.

^Since I plan to have my left and right speakers on the stand with the DLP tv, I will most likely place the center speakers on the first shelf within the stand.

Now I need to go around to some stores and see who has the best deal on a 4667 or 5067. I called Comcast and they can get out to my place within 4 days, so thats part is taken care of and getting the stand is 3 day shipping. I also need to do some more testing on these Samsungs, such as viewing more SD material and DVDs. The only DVD I've seen on the 5067 is a cartoon dvd that looked amazing. I'd also like to try out my PS2 on it but I feel weird about asking to bring my console to Best Buy or Tweeter. Anyone here ever do this? Sometimes I feel that the saleman doesn't take me serious that I plan on getting an HDTV, so its hard to get some tests run on the systems.

Also, if someone could PM me or even write it here about how to get the best price at local stores. I've asked at Tweeter if they will match internet prices and they said they will not. I'm sure Best Buy is the same way. Any ideas or methods?

Another comment: I think I'm going to stick with the xx67w series since they seem the best right now for DLP. I should be able to confirm this with some more testing. Although the idea of having a 1080p set might be better....and it might not. When I was looking at a 1080p and 720p sets at Tweeter the other day, I could barely notice that much of a difference and the MSRC price difference for a 5067 and 5078 is about $1000. Also my theory with technology is to never buy the fastest or the latest product. Usually overpriced and bugged.

Anyone else in the same boat as I am?

Another comment: I think I'm going to stick with the xx67w series since they seem the best right now for DLP. I should be able to confirm this with some more testing. Although the idea of having a 1080p set might be better....and it might not. When I was looking at a 1080p and 720p sets at Tweeter the other day, I could barely notice that much of a difference and the MSRC price difference for a 5067 and 5078 is about $1000. Also my theory with technology is to never buy the fastest or the latest product. Usually overpriced and bugged.

Anyone else in the same boat as I am?

My 5067 should be delivered at this moment. Although I want a 1080p set, the $1000 difference and never see it in person really keep me off. Most importantly, my daughter really can't wait. Our TV just went off for a week. She is unstable now. :-)

Now that the 1080p sets are out, I have noticed that the prices of the 720p sets have dropped. Anybody else notice this? I am going to go look at the 1080p sets this weekend but I have to agree that it better look a hell of lot better to justify the extra $1000.

You can buy a VGA splitter as electronics outfits, such as Fry's. THey come with a built-in amplifier to make up for line losses. I bought one with a 250MHz bandwidth. SO I now go graphics card to splitter in. Splitter out (you can split up to 8 fold, but I only bought the 1:2 box) 1 goes to my PC monitor and splitter out 2 goes to my DLP PC in. Works like a CHAMP. My linre to my DLP is 25 ft long and I don't notice any degration at all. You may have to play with the graphics card resolution and frequency. I am now using 1024 x 768 at 75Hz 32 bit colr and it works.

^all the same here. But they should be dropping a little bit. I think the audience for a 1080p set is small.

My 5067 should be delivered at this moment. Although I want a 1080p set, the $1000 difference and never see it in person really keep me off. Most importantly, my daughter really can't wait. Our TV just went off for a week. She is unstable now. :-)

Another reason not to waste $1000 or more on a 1080p set at this time is that the manufacturers admit there is little or no resolution advantage on sets that are 50" or less, compared to the 720p models. That is why the smallest Samsung 1080p set is 56". This is the same rationale that HD is wasted on a 20" TV.
But if you're looking at the larger sizes, a side-by-side comparison using currently available program sources is definitely in order.

That is why the smallest Samsung 1080p set is 56".
The smallest 1080p Samsung is the 50" HLR5078 and there is a PQ difference between it and the HLR5067 due to factors other than resolution.

It's still an "Is it worth the extra dollars?" question.

The smallest 1080p Samsung is the 50" HLR5078 and there is a PQ difference between it and the HLR5067 due to factors other than resolution.

It's still an "Is it worth the extra dollars?" question.

Agreed.

The smallest 1080p Samsung is the 50" HLR5078 and there is a PQ difference between it and the HLR5067 due to factors other than resolution.

It's still an "Is it worth the extra dollars?" question.

Without trying to be provocative, how do we know there's a PQ difference? I haven't seen any reviews or published side-by-side comparisons. AFAIK the 5078 hasn't been delivered anywhere yet (although I don't keep up so closely that I have much confidence in that). I'd really like to see any comparisons of the two for PQ.

Just a note, prices on the 4667w and 5067w have dropped at BB and CC.

Without trying to be provocative, how do we know there's a PQ difference?
You don't, and in fact "you" can't until you see them for your self.

That being said, I've seen them side by side and the contrast, blacks and colors seem to me to be better. None of those factors have anything to do with the difference in resolution between 1080p and 720p. From my normal viewing distance the HLR5078 image seemed to have more depth and vividness with out a "torch mode" look.

If you move up to half the distance that we use with our HLP5063 then even with my eyes the image has a lot more detail.

I haven't seen any reviews or published side-by-side comparisons.

AFAIK the 5078 hasn't been delivered anywhere yet (although I don't keep up so closely that I have much confidence in that). I'd really like to see any comparisons of the two for PQ.
There have been deliveries in Northern California. It's very rare for someone to have the HLR5067 and HLR5078 in the same home. You might have to wait a long time for anything other than showroom comparisons.

I just feel that the 1080p technology is too new and with anything new there are always problems. I also feel that most people are only getting it because they say its the best right now. Next summer the standard for highest definition could be 1420p (made that up) and everyone would jump on that. Ive seen a 1080 signal going to a 1080p and 720p set and there was barely a difference. Also the 1080p set was about 10" larger so that brings its quality down for me if you were to compare to same size models of different PQ. As for more depth and contrast and less of a bright mode to the new sets, I didn't notice.

... I didn't notice.
That's a good reason to buy 720p. It's cheaper too. It's what we have. :)

I just checked Circuit City's Website for the HLR4667 and the price is the same as is has been for at least a week or two. maybe instore only?

I know because I've been shopping tv's for a 2 months. from the Sammie 5668 to Hitachi 51S715 to the HLR4667.

I too checked the price for the 4667 on one of those online pricers and the cheapest it came for was sub 1900. same as a week ago.

I just checked Circuit City's Website for the HLR4667 and the price is the same as is has been for at least a week or two. maybe instore only?

I know because I've been shopping tv's for a 2 months. from the Sammie 5668 to Hitachi 51S715 to the HLR4667.

I too checked the price for the 4667 on one of those online pricers and the cheapest it came for was sub 1900. same as a week ago.

The online price for the 5067 is now $200 less than what I paid 2 months ago for a 4667 (also online). Prices ARE coming down.

The price hasn't changed at the online retailer I ordered it from, but I can find it about $80 cheaper at a different merchant (hlr6167w). I've had the tv one month now. I'd love a 1080p, but the price diff is too much for me.

I own an HLR 5667 and I'm trying to find a good universal remote to control it and the rest of my system. I have been using a Harmony remote and it worked great with my old mits tv but it sucks with this tv. Many of the buttons on the Sammy's remote don't appear on it and on startup it rarely goes to the right input. Just wondering if anyone else is having this problem or if they have a good recommendation for another remote

The difference in the 1080P sets is not just the 720 vs. 1080. The other major factors are the Horizontal pixel count and Contrast.

The 1080P sets display 1920 x 1080. The 720P sets are 1280 x 720. The benefit is able to be seen with the proper picture source.

Others have noted that the contrast difference is also noticeable .

Is is worth the price difference? That is in the eye of the beholder.

Others have noted that the contrast difference is also noticeable .

Is is worth the price difference? That is in the eye of the beholder.
My wife and I looked at the new 1080p sets and I have to tell you that we did notice hardly any difference. In fact my wife turned and asked me what is different in them because they looked identicall to the 720p models. I noticed just a little bit of difference, but nothing that would say it is worth the extra premium. But I am sure others will say differently, but I would really go take a look at them and see for yourself.

I own an HLR 5667 and I'm trying to find a good universal remote to control it and the rest of my system. I have been using a Harmony remote and it worked great with my old mits tv but it sucks with this tv. Many of the buttons on the Sammy's remote don't appear on it and on startup it rarely goes to the right input. Just wondering if anyone else is having this problem or if they have a good recommendation for another remote

Check out the "Remote Control Forum" on AVS. There is much info there. I finally got my Harmony 659 working correctly after incorrectly setting one option. The Harmony database for the HLRs is pretty bad IMO so it took a lot of work to set the remote up the way I wanted it and I had to teach it a few things that were missing. If it's not hitting the right input you probably need to double check the active inputs list via the "Adjust Inputs" option.

Jon

Has anyone noticed a slight bowing on the bottom silver part of the HLR series? The gap between the black screen bezel and the silver speaker horizonal 'panel' on my HLR5067W seems to be tapering quite visibly... The distance between the two pieces tapers in as one traverses to the edge of the TV. The distance of the black and silver pieces is 12/16" at the point were the recessed gray pedestal, and 9/16" at the edge of the TV.

I think the problem my be because the TV is on the Samsung stand, where the front of the TV rests mainly on the outer edges of the silver panel: TR46X3 (http://product.samsung.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=TR46X3X%2fXAA)

Has anybody else seen this effect?

My wife and I looked at the new 1080p sets and I have to tell you that we did notice hardly any difference. In fact my wife turned and asked me what is different in them because they looked identicall to the 720p models. I noticed just a little bit of difference, but nothing that would say it is worth the extra premium. But I am sure others will say differently, but I would really go take a look at them and see for yourself.

I have become a sceptic viewing these various sets in stores. The signal sources, and setup/calibration are seemingly random. In one particular store, I looked at Samsung HL-Rxx67s and Sony LCD models, side-by-side, with apparently identical source input. At about the 50" size, the Sony looked natural and smooth, while the Samsung had highly visible pixels and a brittle appearance. Ten feet away, on the 56" models, exactly the opposite was true.

I looked at the Samsung HL-R6167W in at least 5 different stores; it varied from very nice to absolutely unwatchable. (It didn't seem to matter how "high-end" the store was, either.)

I finally decided to pre-order a HL-R6168W from TVA, based on seeing some very nice samples of the 6167, and comments from a friend who had seen the 68 series at CES and was simply blown away there. With the 30-day trial period, I should have plenty of time to adjust sources, and do some calibration, to find out just how well this set performs.

So, definitely go view for yourself, but don't presume that what you see in a store is a good indication of what a set can do.

Alan

I own an HLR 5667 and I'm trying to find a good universal remote to control it and the rest of my system. I have been using a Harmony remote and it worked great with my old mits tv but it sucks with this tv. Many of the buttons on the Sammy's remote don't appear on it and on startup it rarely goes to the right input. Just wondering if anyone else is having this problem or if they have a good recommendation for another remote

I just ordered the Harmony 880 because it got good reviews and there has been reported excellent customer support.

In trying to tackle you problem with the input selection I read somewhere (AVSForum remote section or at remote central) that if your turn on Macro cycles through a set number of inputs (toggles vs discrete) then you must turn off the Tv on the same input each time so it can toggle to the correct input. Does this make sense? Logitech has taken over Harmony and is offering very good customer support, give them a call and see what they can do.
Good Luck.

Has anyone noticed a slight bowing on the bottom silver part of the HLR series? The gap between the black screen bezel and the silver speaker horizonal 'panel' on my HLR5067W seems to be tapering quite visibly... The distance between the two pieces tapers in as one traverses to the edge of the TV. The distance of the black and silver pieces is 12/16" at the point were the recessed gray pedestal, and 9/16" at the edge of the TV.

I think the problem my be because the TV is on the Samsung stand, where the front of the TV rests mainly on the outer edges of the silver panel: TR46X3 (http://product.samsung.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=TR46X3X%2fXAA)

Has anybody else seen this effect?

I have noticed the same effect on my 5667W. When it came packaged it had strophone type blocks between the speaker bar and screen bezel, of course I removed them. I still have them, and I'm sure that would hold it up, but then whats the point of the "floating" screen aside from it looking like crap with 2 white blocks.

Mine dips only a couple mm I would guess, but I can notice it. Anyone else confirm?

Just got a 5076. A newbie question. What exactly does "floating screen" mean? I really don't feel the screen is floating. :-)

Does anyone know of any AVS threads other than this one which discuss
specific tweaks and/or setup issues for the HLRxx67 sets?

Do the tweaks in the 'HLP5674W/HLP4674W Owners Thread/Problems/Tweaks/Service Menu/Discretes etc' apply to the HLRxx67 series sets?

I have done a search and didn't see anything obvious.

thanks for any help,

--Don

Do the tweaks in the 'HLP5674W/HLP4674W Owners Thread/Problems/Tweaks/Service Menu/Discretes etc' apply to the HLRxx67 series sets?
Some might but you shouldn't do anything rash to a HLR based on what has worked on HLP sets.

Just got a 5076. A newbie question. What exactly does "floating screen" mean? I really don't feel the screen is floating. :-)

It's a cosmetic thing. The silver speaker bar at the bottom of the set is constructed so that it looks disconnected from the screen, as if the screen is floating above it.

I own an HLR 5667 and I'm trying to find a good universal remote to control it and the rest of my system. I have been using a Harmony remote and it worked great with my old mits tv but it sucks with this tv. Many of the buttons on the Sammy's remote don't appear on it and on startup it rarely goes to the right input. Just wondering if anyone else is having this problem or if they have a good recommendation for another remote
Take a look at the jp1 capable remotes. Basically, some guys figured out how to hack the programming of One-for-all (and RadioShack) remotes to make better use of them. I was looking for a simple, wife-friendly remote that I could adjust the programming, do some macros and keep things fairly simple without spending a ton of money. The software is free from the group, the serial cable cost me $10 or $15 and the Radio Shack 15-2116 remote is $30. I spent about 4 or 5 hours the first time I jumped in and had a 95% perfect setup on two remotes. After a few questions to the group it took another half hour and it was perfect for what I wanted. When I bought my 4667 I opened up a new remote, reused the sat box setup from my other remote and added the new tv and a new Sony DVD changer and had a perfect setup in 20 mins. The first two remotes haven't been tweaked in 2 years. The new one has been set since the day I got the tv. If I want to play around, all programs are saved on the computer and VERY easily swapped in and out.

Check them out at www(dot)hifi-remote(dot)com/forums/
This is not a promo. They do all the software for free (you need Excel for some of it) and even tell you how to make your own serial cable. I don't recall ever seeing any ads, but when they moved from yahoo forums to the new site things may have changed.

e-mail or message me if you have any questions

Hi,

I bought HL-R4266 Samsung DLP recently. I noticed a small (1 inch) triangular area at the right lower corner where the picture does not show up. It is always black. Similarly on the left lower corner there is a small strip that always shows black. Has anyone seen this problem? Wondering if I should return the TV or call the store service center to fix the problem.

Thanks.

I've seen a few messages indicating that with the HLRxx67 sets some folks feel that a regular 480i dvd player signal via component input to the tv is (or can be) noticeably inferior to using a dvd player which can upscal/upsample to 720p or 1080i via the hdmi input to the tv.

Can anyone who's directly compared players like this on the HLRxx67 series sets comment? I saw a recent post in the 1080p models thread indicating the user saw no significant difference between these aforementioned setups.

I'm planning to buy a 6167 and have a Pioneer 563a dvd player with component out, ie nothing fancy (expensive). I was thinking of trying a Samsung HD950 dvd player via hdmi to the 6167 and was wondering if I'll see a significant improvement. The HD950 is also not a fancy (expensive) player.

The HD950s are pretty new so I'm not seeing them locally at any places where I might be able to return it easily and/or without a restocking fee etc.

Understanding that any given person may or may not see certain signal quality differences and that 'significant' to one may not be to another etc, I'd be interested in any comments from people who've compared these described setups.

I noticed a small (1 inch) triangular area at the right lower corner where the picture does not show up. It is always black. Similarly on the left lower corner there is a small strip that always shows black.
It could be as minor a fix as removing some "junk" from the light path. I would still use AkaStp's approach if it's available to you.

Jon

The Yamaha RX-V1500 has a 240ms delay too. They don't advertise it on the website but it's in the setup menu. Download the user's manual if you want to see for yourself, use the pdf search function to find "delay", I think it's on page 56.

I have the 1500 and I absolutely love it. The delay is coming in handy also since my DVD player (DVD C950) does way too much video processing.

Has anyone noticed a slight bowing on the bottom silver part of the HLR series?

Has anybody else seen this effect?
I've had my HLR 5067 and stand for about a month and have also noticed the bowing. The stand is LAME. The shelves aren't really deep enough for my reciever, although I should have checked that out more thoroughly, and won't support the weight load (34 lbs) without dropping about 2cm.

If anyone else out there is considering this stand, I'd advise against it.

Jon

The Yamaha RX-V1500 has a 240ms delay too. They don't advertise it on the website but it's in the setup menu. Download the user's manual if you want to see for yourself, use the pdf search function to find "delay", I think it's on page 56.

I have the 1500 and I absolutely love it. The delay is coming in handy also since my DVD player (DVD C950) does way too much video processing.

Alas, my RX-V1400 (last year's model) has no delay, or I can't find it in the setup menus. Hopefully, there will be add-on delay boxes on the market as this problem gains notoriety. Those I've seen so far are pricey.

Has anyone noticed a slight bowing on the bottom silver part of the HLR series? The gap between the black screen bezel and the silver speaker horizonal 'panel' on my HLR5067W seems to be tapering quite visibly... The distance between the two pieces tapers in as one traverses to the edge of the TV. The distance of the black and silver pieces is 12/16" at the point were the recessed gray pedestal, and 9/16" at the edge of the TV.

I think the problem my be because the TV is on the Samsung stand, where the front of the TV rests mainly on the outer edges of the silver panel: TR46X3 (http://product.samsung.com/cgi-bin/nabc/product/b2c_product_detail.jsp?eUser=&prod_id=TR46X3X%2fXAA)

Has anybody else seen this effect?

Yes, I see it ever-so-slightly with my HL-R4667W. The 46X3 stand does not support three of the front foot pads on the TV. A very poor design for a product carrying the same brand name and intended to "mate" with the TV.

Here’s my experience with my new HLR4667W, bought and installed a week ago – it’s my first foray into HDTV. First I had Comcast install both a DVR set-top box (Motorola DCT6412) and a cable card so that I could watch most channels in PIP. (I didn’t figure out until later that PIP won’t play HDTV on both channels.) I have an older, but good A/V processor that won’t handle either component or DVI video, so I made all the video connections directly between the TV , STB and DVD player. I ran both DVI and component connections from the STB to the TV as a test. My DVD player is older - 480i out only, no DVI. Warning - I also found I had to run composite video from my A/V processor, otherwise I can’t see the on-screen menu to make changes to the processor.

The audio connections do go through my A/V processor though, and I routed SPDIF from my DVD and STB, and optical from the TV as well as RCA stereo (for those times/channels when Dolby Digital is not being sent).

Initial video impression was a big WOW factor! I adjusted contrast, brightness, sharpness, color and temp to values I found on this forum (60, 55, 0, 52, Normal) as an interim until AVIA and DVE arrived. The manual didn’t mention that these values can be set separately for EACH video input, so my initial impression was that component video was much better than DVI from the STB. It took the DVE DVD tutorial to educate me. Now after adjusting every input, I find the DVI input to be slight sharper. I have no measuring equipment, so relying on eyesight judgment alone from AVIA and DVE, I decided on Contrast 60, Brightness 60, Sharpness 0, Color 54, Temp Normal. Of course that’s from DVD input; having no other guidance, I set all inputs to these same values.

I’m very impressed with the “3-dimensionality” of the HDTV broadcasts. Regular analog and digital channels look better than they did on my old Mitsu 35” CRT. Haven’t seen any rainbows. Occasionally see digital noise, but I’m sure it’s the service, not the TV. I have seen lip sych problems occasionally, especially on the Discovery channel. Because it’s not all the time, I am beginning to think it’s a broadcast issue. At first I theorized it happens when the broadcast uses Digital Dolby sound, but that hasn’t always been true, either. I’m not a gamer, so I have no feedback to give about lip synch issues there. Magnolia Audio/Video said timing can be changed in the service menu, but unless it can be adjusted easily I wouldn’t do it, as I doubt a global change will help given the spotty appearance of lip synch in programs I’ve watched. No problem with this on DVDs.

I checked into replacing my DVD player with an upscaling one e.g., Samsung HD950, but the quality improvement doesn’t appear to justify doing anything but waiting for HD-DVD. If anyone out there has an opinion on this I’d like to hear about it.

BTW, it is not longer necessary to enter the Service menu to find out what firmware version you have. You can go to Function Help (pg 84 of the manual), set it to on and then press Info. Or you can get it and other diagnostic info as follows:

Mute-1-8-4-Exit will display screen 1 of Diagnostic Status
Mute-1-8-5-Exit will display screen 2 of Diagnostic Status
Mute-1-8-6-Exit will display screen 3 of Diagnostic Status

I got this directly from Samsung tech support, and it works.

I’m now updating my Pronto TSU6000, and when I’m done I’ll put my revised ccf file up on the Remote Central site.

Many thanks to all the contributors to this forum. I’ve been following this technology for a couple of years through AVS forums, and the comments certainly shortened my learning time a lot.

^I don't get why audio lag occurs? What would make this happen and for only a few seconds? I've read that its due to people using composite cables rather than digital ones.

^I don't get why audio lag occurs? What would make this happen and for only a few seconds?
Audio lag doesn't occur. The video lags behind the audio when extra video processing is required like converting 480i to either 720p, 1080i, or 1080p.

Afternoon all. I just wanted to sign on, say hello and send a thank you to everyone in this forum. I've been reading all the posts since sammy came out with their DLP. Reading and waiting, reading and waiting and have finally made the leap. I just purchased an HLR4667 from CC. last week. A great big thank you again because I learned from AVS that CC will negotiate price.
The set is simply GREAT. I needed something that the entire family would be happy with without me going crazy with burn-in or image retention worries. Something that would excell with HD and DVD content but also play SD content well too. I'm happy to say that this sammy does it all. This set replaced a 10 yr old 32" Mit CRT that produced an excellent picture from SD, digital and DVD content. I purchased a 22" Panny LCD s few months back for my small den and comparing the sammy to the LCD, I think they are both great. Matter of fact, I think the sammy gives better detail in blacks than the LCD. The LCD just literally outshines (brightness) the sammy but I find the sammy to have a better viewing field than the LCD.
Here is the how I've got the sammy hooked up. I have a moto digital HD receiver from Comcast with video output to the sammy via DVI/HDMI. The audio from the STB to the TV is composite. I have the sammy optical audio out to my panny HT receiver so I can choose depending on the broadcast if the sound is from the TV or receiver. I also have a JVC progressive DVD player with video out to the sammy via component and audio from the DVD to my receiver via optical too. All my speakers are Polk. The fronts are R50s, center is CSi3, surrounds are RM101s with a PSW10 sub.
BTW: I haven't noticed any audio lag in SD, HD or DVD.
Thanks again to all!

Audio lag doesn't occur. The video lags behind the audio when extra video processing is required like converting 480i to either 720p, 1080i, or 1080p.

So then the only video that shouldn't lag is HDTV, right? Doesn't seem that there is many people complaining about video lag with DVDs though.

So then the only video that shouldn't lag is HDTV, right?

Nope. Some HD progamming has video lag that you see as a lip sync problem right from the source. The one complained about the most is the Discovery Channel provided by DirecTV.

Doesn't seem that there is many people complaining about video lag with DVDs though.
DVD's may be more consistent and have fewer built in video lag problems. If the DVD player is outputting 480i to a RPTV micro display then the chances of video lag are probably the highest.

If the DVD player outputs 480p there is less chance that you will notice a lip sync problem.

When the DVD player outputs the native resolution of the display device then the chances of a noticeable lip sync problem are smallest. For instance, a good upscaling DVD player outputting a digital 720hp signal to either HDMI or DVI shouldn't have any lip sync problems unless the delay is in the material on the disk.

I use my computer as a DVD player and output 720p to the DVI input of a HLP5063. The sound is coax cable from the sound card to the Receiver. My HK 630 A/V Receiver has the capability to delay audio for each input but I've never needed to use it.

I don't think composite cables used for audio can be a problem. Composite video is the worst case because it's restricted to 480i analog which needs the most video processing to be displayed as either 720p or 1080p.

For good information on this topic read this:

Audio Lip Sync - The Next Big Feature? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5944757&&#post5944757)

I've been enjoying my HLR5067 for the past couple of months now (screen smudges seemed to have disappeared), but i'm increasingly bothered by the pincushion effect on the tv and was wondering if this can be adjusted somehow. the screen "bows" inwards so that when watching either 4:3 or even 16:9 content, vertical lines on the left half of the screen will bow inwards to the right, and vertical lines on the right half of the screen will bow inwards to the left. it's fairly noticeable.

i don't think it's simply a matter of the angle at which the light engine projects the image because then i would expect a trapezoidal type of shape. on my set, the top and bottom portion of the screen have the same screen width (when viewing 4:3 content), it's just that the middle area of the screen has a slightly narrower width (maybe 1/4 inch?). i'm wondering whether samsung might be able to adjust this a bit with a service call. any thoughts? also, are any of you guys experiencing the same issue?

i don't think it's simply a matter of the angle at which the light engine projects the image because then i would expect a trapezoidal type of shape.
It's the short throw. All narrow RPTV sets have the same problem unless they have a very expensive lens setup. The amount can vary from set to set. There is no way to correct it in the set itself.

Most people don't notice it with widescreen material. It's much easier to see with 4x3 SD material. Of course it's easy to see if you use the set as a computer monitor.

Check out some display models. If your's is worse than what you see in showrooms maybe you can exchange it. Front projectors, Plasma, LCD flat panel, and direct view CRT sets don't have this problem.

I live about 60 miles from a authorized Samsung service provider. Samsung's customer service said repair could take up to two weeks and requirers special authorization. Anyone have any experience in a similar situation? I am in middle TN. I expect I'll have the same service situation no mater what brand large DLP I buy (even from the only local Tosiba and RCA dealers).

BTW, it is not longer necessary to enter the Service menu to find out what firmware version you have. You can go to Function Help (pg 84 of the manual), set it to on and then press Info.
This could start an interesting thread! Who has firmware later than March 25th? Will Samsung release the process for updating using the firewire or USB ports?

I have a smudge on my screen near the bottom right corner that does not go away after extended viewing. I called Samsung last night who gave me a reference number - I now need to schedule an appointment with the tech. Hopefully all goes smooth! I really enjoy this set so far!

I was wondering why I only get 2 ch, pro logic sound from my receiver. This is how I have the setup: Moto STB dvi out to my sammy 4667's hdmi in. I'm using the moto's analog audio( (from the dvi) out to the sammy's hdmi analog in. I am then running an optical audio out from the sammy to the optical audio in on my 5.1 receiver. When I have my receiver set to for the TV audio and the STB is broadcasting an HD program in 5.1, my receiver's display indicates 2 ch stereo, using pro logic. The receiver's digital output light is on too.
Any ideas?

(Thanks to htwaits post I have edited the above and changed composite audio to reflect analog audio. 10Q HT!)

I was wondering why I only get 2 ch, pro logic sound from my receiver. This is how I have the setup: Moto STB dvi out to my sammy 4667's hdmi in. I'm using the moto's composite audio (from the dvi) out to the sammy's hdmi composite in. I am then running an optical audio out from the sammy to the optical audio in on my 5.1 receiver. When I have my receiver set to for the TV audio and the STB is broadcasting an HD program in 5.1, my receiver's display indicates 2 ch stereo, using pro logic. The receiver's digital output light is on too.
Any ideas?
Somebody can correct me if I am wrong, but the HDMI does not pass the 5.1 audio into the tv. So what you have to do is connect the optical output on your Moto STB to the receiver and the HDMI to the tv.

And somebody can correct me if I am wrong, but "composite" audio doesn't pass DD5.1, right? IIRC, it (DD5.1) can only be passed thru a digital (optical or coax) or HDMI, right?
I don't know what you mean by "composite audio". A composite cable can be used as a coax cable. The red/white connectors for audio are analog stereo if that's what you're referring to. Sorry if I'm confusing things.

So far no one has been able to pass 5.1 digital sound through a HDMI connection. I don't pretend to know why. :o

Somebody can correct me if I am wrong, but the HDMI does not pass the 5.1 audio into the tv. So what you have to do is connect the optical output on your Moto STB to the receiver and the HDMI to the tv.

Big Worms & AKAStp,
Thank you both. I want to be able to have the choice between true 5.1 audio from the receiver and also be able to only use the TV's audio when I want. So if I understand correctly, (please excuse my being green) I can run the optical out from my stb to the optical in on my receiver for the 5.1 instead of what I have now which is, the optical out from the TV into the receiver's optical in. I still keep the analog audio from the stb's DVI out to the TVs analog audio in on the hdmi. Sound right? I wonder if this will cause the audio sync issue I seem to have luckily not run into :(

If you are using the TV's ATSC tuner (for OTA or Cable for unencrypted local and other available HD channels) you'll need to use the TV's optical output to pass digital audio to your receiver for digital programming from those sources and be able to listen to HD programs that have DD5.1 audio.

I'm only using my comcast STB to receive digital HD. I'm not using the TV's air or cable coax inputs at all.

The service technician came out to the house and looked at the tv. He initially thought it was dust and cleaned the entire tv including the mirror, screen, etc...

He said I need a new light engine! ouch! He placed the order and I should receive it next week.

Big Worms & AKAStp,
Thank you both. I want to be able to have the choice between true 5.1 audio from the receiver and also be able to only use the TV's audio when I want. So if I understand correctly, (please excuse my being green) I can run the optical out from my stb to the optical in on my receiver for the 5.1 instead of what I have now which is, the optical out from the TV into the receiver's optical in. I still keep the composite audio from the stb's DVI out to the TVs compopsite audio in on the hdmi. Sound right? I wonder if this will cause the audio sync issue I seem to have luckily not run into :(

I get a big-time audio sync problem between the audio coming out of the TV speakers (already delayed by the TV to match its video processing delay time) and analog (red and white) audio from my satellite STB, routed directly to my HT receiver. I haven't yet tried comparing this to using an optical or coax connection to my audio system, as I don't have the proper inputs on my low-end Panasonic (HT-in-a-box).

I get a big-time audio sync problem between the audio coming out of the TV speakers (already delayed by the TV to match its video processing delay time) and analog (red and white) audio from my satellite STB, routed directly to my HT receiver. I haven't yet tried comparing this to using an optical or coax connection to my audio system, as I don't have the proper inputs on my low-end Panasonic (HT-in-a-box).

What connection are you using from your satellite STB to your TV? I'm using my STB's DVI audio out (analog cables) to my TV's HDMI audio in and do not have a sync problem.

The service technician came out to the house and looked at the tv. He initially thought it was dust and cleaned the entire tv including the mirror, screen, etc...

He said I need a new light engine! ouch! He placed the order and I should receive it next week.

God speed for the replacement! EEBuckeye, how long have you had the set for?

so this is an issue that you should contact Samsung about and not the company you bought the tv from or who you have the warrenty with?

What connection are you using from your satellite STB to your TV? I'm using my STB's DVI audio out (2 composite cables) to my TV's HDMI audio in and do not have a sync problem.

I have two different STBs and they both behave the same. I use the DVI HD output and DVI audio outputs (the analog red and white connections) from my Hughes HTL-HD DirecTV satellite receiver to the TV's HDMI (using an adapter) input and HDMI audio input connectors. I also run a second set of audio outputs from the STB directly to my home theater audio system. For comparison, I run the TV analog audio ouputs to another input of the HT. Switching back-and-forth, the TV audio output is sync'd to the video, but the direct connection from the STB to the HT produces audio ahead of the video. Reason? I think it is because there is a finite video processing delay for its circuits to analyze the input format and match or convert it to the HLR's 720p display mode. Knowing this, the designers built in a several millisecond delay in the audio to its own speakers and the TV audio outputs, so both come out in sync.
My other STB (a Motorola DSR500 Star Choice receiver) has only component video outputs for HD. I run them and the analog audios to one of my two TV component video inuts. Same issue - in sync using the TV audio output signal and audio ahead of the video with the direct STB-to-HT audio connection.

I have two different STBs and they both behave the same. I use the DVI HD output and DVI audio outputs (the analog red and white connections) from my Hughes HTL-HD DirecTV satellite receiver to the TV's HDMI (using an adapter) input and HDMI audio input connectors. I also run a second set of audio outputs from the STB directly to my home theater audio system. For comparison, I run the TV analog audio ouputs to another input of the HT. Switching back-and-forth, the TV audio output is sync'd to the video, but the direct connection from the STB to the HT produces audio ahead of the video.

This is an easy one. Don't run the audio straight from the STB to the AVR. Go through the TV. You're only using 2 channel RCA jacks anyway so you're not giving anything up. It's the people trying to get DD 5.1 into their home theater systems who are screwed. You've got no problem at all until you upgrade to a better home theater system.

Okay, that's my answer but if it was that easy you'd already be doing that. What am I missing?

Jon

This is an easy one. Don't run the audio straight from the STB to the AVR. Go through the TV. You're only using 2 channel RCA jacks anyway so you're not giving anything up. It's the people trying to get DD 5.1 into their home theater systems who are screwed. You've got no problem at all until you upgrade to a better home theater system.

Okay, that's my answer but if it was that easy you'd already be doing that. What am I missing?

Jon

Thanks for the reply. I AM doing that, and only use the direct connections when running audio services and radio stations from my STBs without the TV on. DD 5.1 is a problem when playing DVDs, as the player is an integral part of my low-end HT system. Oh well, time to upgrade the DVD player to one that upconverts to 720p and has audio delay adjustment.

I have had the tv for three months so that is why I called Samsung for service. Everything has gone smooth so far...

Thanks for the reply. I AM doing that, and only use the direct connections when running audio services and radio stations from my STBs without the TV on. DD 5.1 is a problem when playing DVDs, as the player is an integral part of my low-end HT system. Oh well, time to upgrade the DVD player to one that upconverts to 720p and has audio delay adjustment.

Sorry, I thought from your description that you were using only 2 channel L/R audio everywhere. But your DVD player is built in so you have the same problem that everybody else is having. I knew if it was that easy you'd already be doing it.

Jon

I have two different STBs and they both behave the same. I use the DVI HD output and DVI audio outputs (the analog red and white connections) from my Hughes HTL-HD DirecTV satellite receiver to the TV's HDMI (using an adapter) input and HDMI audio input connectors. I also run a second set of audio outputs from the STB directly to my home theater audio system. For comparison, I run the TV analog audio ouputs to another input of the HT. Switching back-and-forth, the TV audio output is sync'd to the video, but the direct connection from the STB to the HT produces audio ahead of the video. Reason? I think it is because there is a finite video processing delay for its circuits to analyze the input format and match or convert it to the HLR's 720p display mode. Knowing this, the designers built in a several millisecond delay in the audio to its own speakers and the TV audio outputs, so both come out in sync.
My other STB (a Motorola DSR500 Star Choice receiver) has only component video outputs for HD. I run them and the analog audios to one of my two TV component video inuts. Same issue - in sync using the TV audio output signal and audio ahead of the video with the direct STB-to-HT audio connection.

If you look at my earlier posts of how I had my TV setup, I indicated that I (greatfully) wasn't experiencing any audio sync issues when viewing SD or HD content via my moto STB (DVI w/ anaolg audio) to the TV's HDMI input, or DVD content (DVD's component video out to TV w/ optical audio from DVD to HT receiver). I also had an audio optical out from the TV to my HT receiver for when I wanted TV audio to go to my external speakers. Problem with this was I wasn't getting real DD5.1 audio.

Last night I took the suggestions of Big Worms & AkaStp who advised me to remove the optical audio out from my TV and use the optical adudio out from my STB instead. I made this very simple switch and it worked! When my STB is receiving DD5.1 audio and I have my HT receiver on TV audio is now DD5.1. I did extensive testing last night with SD & HD programs from my STB and also with a number of DVDs and I am not experiencing any audio sync issues.

From what I've gathered, the audio sync issues can be fixed 100%. And if there are still some issues with it, its usually from the source being bad.

I want to get this TV except, I am really worried about game lag time with this model. Wish I could start a poll. Maybe I can, just couldn't figure it out. I'm a newbie to the forum, I say!

Anyway, looking for input from owners about their feelings on game lag time.
So, which is it for you? (Maybe somebody with 'poll power' could start a real poll, I guess...)

:D - lov'n all games

:) - good for most games

:rolleyes: - 50% work fine

:( - crummy

:mad: - outright want to return TV

My thing with gamelag is that it won't affect me that much since the PS3 will be out within a year.

My question about lag is: Has anyone tried running old school Nintendo or Genesis games on a DLP tv and noticed any problems?

My thing with gamelag is that it won't affect me that much since the PS3 will be out within a year.

I too will be upgrading to either PS3 or XBox360, but I'm not sure I want to 'throw' away all my games because the XX67 gamelag sucks on them. Rather get a TV that works for both.

BTW: Why would PS3 not have lag? Do XBOX 720p HD games have no lag? I swear I saw something about these games also exhibiting gamelag. So, unless PS3 processes the video-out perfectly for the Sammy so it has no processing to do, what is the benefit of PS3?

thanks!

OK, I'd really like to do some mining here. What's the best way to go about it? A new thread maybe? I'd like to know what video settings - in the 'regular' menus and the service menu' - have been working out well.

OK owners, what are you using? More specifically, what video problems have you solved and what settings did the job for you?

Please somebody say they fixed DVD artifact problems. :cool:

Still no solution. Pretty much anywhere a light colored background is shown in low lighting, it looks all artifacted. I'm sure 'artifact' isn't exactly the right word, because it doesn't look all blocky (like streaming low bandwidth video on the internet). Maybe false color is a better word. It just doesn't happen all the time. Its like the gray scale is and tint is thrown way off in splotches. This is really obvious stuff, as I'm no video snob. I don't see rainbows or other mundane things most folks don't notice.

I bought a different DVD player to see if that helps. If not, I'm calling this in.

I have had a HL-R4667W set now for a few weeks. One thing I have noticed lately is what I would call a splotchiness in the picture for mostly solid color objects. It is mostly seen on SD DirecTV channels when solid color objects are in somewhat low light. However the effect is still there for DVD source and to a much lesser extent HDTV DTV channels.

It looks like the pixels are quite large and somewhat visible. Almost as if shades of colors for a solid color object are limited on a small scale. As the brightness for a solid object changes across the surface, clear breaks are seen rather than a smooth color scale.

I have two other HD sets in the house and they do not show this effect. One is an older Mits set and the other a new JVC.

Any ideas?

Ed

Finally, somebody else has my problem. Is there a solution to this?

BTW, I have this problem with DVD using a Panasonic S97 (with and without latest firmware upgrade) with both component and HDMI connections. I've never seen the problem on OTA HD and I've not tried DirectTV yet.

More input from my testing of my new 4667. I had read that there's a lot of complaints about how SD looks on this set. I had both a DVR STB (Motorola 6412) and a CableCard installed by Comcast. Now that I'm on my second card it's working properly. What I have found is that the CableCard does a much better job of rendering analog channels. As good as my old CRT. Analog channels are soft out of the STB into either Comp or HDMI. The difference is less for digital channels, but I think the CableCard is still slightly better. For the HDTV channels (which is really why I bought this set) I can't see any difference between the CableCard and STB.

So I guess I'm going to make the CableCard my standard and only use the STB as a DVR. Sure would like to know if others have had the same experience. I wish it were otherwise, as I HATE the TVGuide.

I love the cablecard idea but I'm addicted to On-Demand too much to give it up. Wonder when they will have two way connection on those cards.

I sent samsungparts.com an email complaining about the bowing that happens, especially on the 50" and 56" HLRs when placed on the stand. Here's my email and the reply I got:

To: help@samsungparts.com
Subject: RE: Problem with TR46X3 stand - it does not support the front middle part of the TV

I bought the HL-R4667W with a TR46X3 stand. At first, it seemed to be the perfect mate to the TV. After a few weeks, I noticed a slight bowing of the front silvery part of the TV (where the speakers, IR sensor and status indicators are). Upon closer inspection, I found that due to the design of the stand, it does not support 3 of the front pads on the bottom of the TV! Therefore, the unsupported weight of the middle of the TV was causing a sag in the front section.

I checked the AVS Forum on the Web, and, sure enough, others were reporting the same problem. I then went to a store that displayed your sets, and saw the same thing - only worse. It was with your 56" model on the expanded 46X3 stand. Because of the increased weight and wider unsupported section, the bowing was about an inch, and was quite visible from several feet away. I mentioned it to the salesman. He was shocked and surprised.

Then I noticed a 61" model nearby. It had a nice thin pedestal under the middle 2/3 of the TV, and was supporting the entire weight of the TV just fine. Putting that pedestal on my smaller model and placing it on the 46X3 stand would appear to be a fix. The salesman suggested I contact you for help.

If you understand and agree with all of this, is it possible to furnish me with the pedestal piece that comes with your HL-R6167W? If yes, what is the part number and cost?

Thanks

Reply:
Thank you for your inquiry. I feel you will receive better assistance if you contact J&J International at 1-800-627-4368 and one our sales rep will assist you.

Thank you,

J&J International, Inc.
http://www.samsungparts.com
1-800-627-4368

I sent samsungparts.com an email complaining about the bowing that happens, especially on the 50" and 56" HLRs when placed on the stand. Here's my email and the reply I got:

Why didn't you take the "defective TV/defective stand" route? Your set is under warranty and it's not supposed to sag.

subwoofer,

Our local Comcast is maxed out in bandwidth and doesn't offer On-Demand yet. Maybe I don't know what I'm missing? In any case why would you suffer with poor picture quality when you can do better? Comcast has to give you a CableCard free, so you have nothing to lose by trying it.

I doubt the picture is that much worse and I can't imagine why it would be.

subwoofer,

Our local Comcast is maxed out in bandwidth and doesn't offer On-Demand yet. Maybe I don't know what I'm missing? In any case why would you suffer with poor picture quality when you can do better? Comcast has to give you a CableCard free, so you have nothing to lose by trying it.


A free cable card? When I called Cox they said there was a fee.

Is there a way to resize the "Zoom 1" function? Some shows I watch (Battlestar Galactica, the Justice League cartoons" show in 4:3 mode in widescreen, but have black bars on all the sides. Shifting to Zoom 1, it covers the whole screen, but I end up losing a little bit on all sides. I looked at the manual but couldn't find any way to resize it.

toastyfries,
It's my understanding that it's a Federal law that the cable providers have to supply you with a free CableCard. You pay for a box, but not a card. Check your Action Line or BBB if Cox gives you the runaround.

subwoofer,

OK, we're not dealing with HDTV here, but... Yesterday I tried to watch a tennis match on ESPN2 thru my STB and it was terrible! I couldn't even see the ball. On the CableCard it was as good as or better than I was used to on my old CRT. Don't know how to convince you if you don't try it for yourself.

Interesting. I went to Circuit City today and was checking out the 5067w with HD and analog/digital channels through Comcast. The HD was very nice, a bit grainy here and there. The digital channels looked almost as good as DVDs and analog was horrible. They had the connection split from a STB. Still not sure if this tv is right for me because of the times I will be watching a channel that is from 2-99 and I get a bad feed. I also want to get On-Demand so using only a cable card isn't an option. I wonder when Comcast will offer the cable card that has two way communication and when all of their channels will be digital.

Worst part about my visit to CC was that they wouldn't budge with the price of a 4667w. I was able to chat with TVA and I could get it for about $300 less. Could someone PM me about their experience with TVA?

I want to get this TV except, I am really worried about game lag time with this model. Wish I could start a poll. Maybe I can, just couldn't figure it out. I'm a newbie to the forum, I say!

Anyway, looking for input from owners about their feelings on game lag time.
So, which is it for you? (Maybe somebody with 'poll power' could start a real poll, I guess...)

:D - lov'n all games

:) - good for most games

:rolleyes: - 50% work fine

:( - crummy

:mad: - outright want to return TV

I need to know this before I order as well. Can anyone who has received their TV and has played some games on it comment on this?

Worst part about my visit to CC was that they wouldn't budge with the price of a 4667w. I was able to chat with TVA and I could get it for about $300 less. Could someone PM me about their experience with TVA?

That's strange, because I had the exact opposite experience at CC today. I took my KDF42655 back that I'd bought on 7/3 because I just wasn't happy with it for various reasons. I'd planned on getting the new A10 series, but they aren't on display in my area yet. I'd already researched the heck outta DLP so we sat and watched the Sammy's for about a half hour or so. After some back and forth with my wife, we decided on the 50". Went home to pack up the Sony and realized the 50" was pushing the limits on the space we had. Got back to CC and went straight to the electronics manager whom I've been working with for the past week and just flat out asked him his best price on the 46" Sammy. He came off the sale price another $200...I hesitated and he took another $50 off and I bought it. So I got the 46" for about $20 more than what I could have ordered it for off the Internet while at the same time putting money into the pockets of the guys that helped me decide and are local to me.

Here's the best part: as we were leaving, we saw them bring out the Sony that we'd just brought back and load up into another customers truck! They didn't have it fifteen minutes and had already sold it! I know, because the box had paint on it from where we've been painting our house!

I need to know this before I order as well. Can anyone who has received their TV and has played some games on it comment on this?

Take your gaming system down to the store and try our a few of your favorite games. It is not big deal and you will have a solid answer to your question.

That's strange, because I had the exact opposite experience at CC today. I took my KDF42655 back that I'd bought on 7/3 because I just wasn't happy with it for various reasons. I'd planned on getting the new A10 series, but they aren't on display in my area yet. I'd already researched the heck outta DLP so we sat and watched the Sammy's for about a half hour or so. After some back and forth with my wife, we decided on the 50". Went home to pack up the Sony and realized the 50" was pushing the limits on the space we had. Got back to CC and went straight to the electronics manager whom I've been working with for the past week and just flat out asked him his best price on the 46" Sammy. He came off the sale price another $200...I hesitated and he took another $50 off and I bought it. So I got the 46" for about $20 more than what I could have ordered it for off the Internet while at the same time putting money into the pockets of the guys that helped me decide and are local to me.

Here's the best part: as we were leaving, we saw them bring out the Sony that we'd just brought back and load up into another customers truck! They didn't have it fifteen minutes and had already sold it! I know, because the box had paint on it from where we've been painting our house!

Keep in mind that I'm only 24. It was hard enough to buy a condo let alone a DLP tv. So I was talking to TVA today and I think I might go with them on the 4667w. My only problem is the analog signals being fuzzy. Wonder if this can be fixed or if Comcast will change all of their stations to digital.

Keep in mind that I'm only 24. It was hard enough to buy a condo let alone a DLP tv. So I was talking to TVA today and I think I might go with them on the 4667w. My only problem is the analog signals being fuzzy. Wonder if this can be fixed or if Comcast will change all of their stations to digital.

I don't really see what age has to do with anything, but rather your negotiation skills. I bought my first car when I was 21 and got it for $74 under invoice, so it's all a matter of wheeling and dealing.

Granted, I had an advantage here because I was returning a TV and wanted a more expensive one. I also listen more than talk and knew they only had one 46" left and it wasn't even on display...when they punch up stuff on the computer...look over their shoulder. Heck, I usually find the guys are more than willing to show me their stock, warehouse supply's, etc.

One time I had a really snooty manager that was just being an ass...I sat in my car until I saw him leave for lunch, then went back in and bought the stereo receiver I wanted for the price I was willing to pay. Just a matter of patience really. :D

Edit to add:

Just checked TVA's price...not too bad. I got mine for about $150 more. Don't forget to get a warranty with it!

have a sony vaio desktop 3.2ghz , ati 700xl video card, dvi out to hdmi to the sammy hlr5067w, installed microsoft flight simulator 2004- flight of century (latest ) with all updates. if i play the game to a traditional computer monitor, the game is flawless, however when i put it to the samsung tv, i can display a perfect picture of the desktop, and the game even starts, but when you go to fly now missiongs, (the essence of the game), it crashes to the desktop, ive followed all install tips from microsoft, updated drivers, software, tweaked registry, no virus (its brand new machine), disabled all kinds of services, no spy ware, nothing i can think of.. the game works great with monitor, but not on the TV, it will crash to desktop

any tips?

resolution is 1280x 760..

updated drivers, ... the game works great with monitor, but not on the TV, it will crash to desktop - any tips?Games stress out video drivers more than anything else and laptop video drivers are tweaked by the manufacturer of the laptop, so you can't use a reference driver from the graphics chip company. I would doublecheck with Sony as it takes a while for drivers to show up at Microsoft, if they do at all.

would sony have some driver that works with the ati card to solve this?
its odd.

would sony have some driver that works with the ati card to solve this? its odd. As I said, laptops rarely use reference drivers, so you can't go to the ATI web site - you need to check at the Sony support web site for your specific laptop model. No promises that Sony does, or that it will fix the problem, but that is step one.

ahhh . i gotcha now, i think what threw me off was the fact that you though i was using a laptop .. i am not using a laptop, it is a Desktop Vaio.

thanks

ahhh . i gotcha now, i think what threw me off was the fact that you though i was using a laptop .. i am not using a laptop, it is a Desktop Vaio.

thanks

You might check on the Home Theater PC forum. But, I would download the latest ATI drivers. They just released a new set that is target toward HTPC's. Second, I would get it running on VGA first. Then if all is well. I would move to HDMI.

subwoofer,

As I mentioned, I have both a STB and a CableCard from Comcast. So I have the best of both worlds, in my opinion. I am now reprogramming my Pronto Pro. I can easily imagine you could customize a remote to give you the CableCard input after you make your channel selection as Analog, and STB for anything else. That way you can look at On Demand first.

subwoofer,

As I mentioned, I have both a STB and a CableCard from Comcast. So I have the best of both worlds, in my opinion. I am now reprogramming my Pronto Pro. I can easily imagine you could customize a remote to give you the CableCard input after you make your channel selection as Analog, and STB for anything else. That way you can look at On Demand first.

And you said that Comcast doesn't charge you for the Cablecard? Because if they don't, I see no reason why not to have both. I wonder why the cablecard provides a better analog picture. I also wonder when they will have a 2-way communication card because I'd hate to give up on-demand tv. I think the analog channels are really the only thing stopping me from getting this televison (also the fact that CC or BB won't bring their price down at all so I might have to go with TVA).

I don't really see what age has to do with anything, but rather your negotiation skills. I bought my first car when I was 21 and got it for $74 under invoice, so it's all a matter of wheeling and dealing.

Granted, I had an advantage here because I was returning a TV and wanted a more expensive one. I also listen more than talk and knew they only had one 46" left and it wasn't even on display...when they punch up stuff on the computer...look over their shoulder. Heck, I usually find the guys are more than willing to show me their stock, warehouse supply's, etc.

One time I had a really snooty manager that was just being an ass...I sat in my car until I saw him leave for lunch, then went back in and bought the stereo receiver I wanted for the price I was willing to pay. Just a matter of patience really. :D

Edit to add:

Just checked TVA's price...not too bad. I got mine for about $150 more. Don't forget to get a warranty with it!

Age has alot to do with it. Plus with a car, I was able to get a great price when I was 20 and thats cause everyone needs a car. Not so much with an HDTV, so they are pretty strict with the pricing. Basically like I said, TVA has their price about $300 dollars less than Circuit City. But CC adds on shipping ($40) and taxes, so thats about another $150. They wouldn't even knock off those prices to come more my way.

I was looking at some warrentys at TVA. Any suggestions?

Also the guy at CC was mentioning that their warrenty covers a power surge on any card in the tv (power cable, coaxial cable, etc). Any heard of this happening?

ahhh . i gotcha now, i think what threw me off was the fact that you though i was using a laptop .. i am not using a laptop, it is a Desktop Vaio.

thanksMy mistake - I saw Vaio and assumed laptop!

It's the short throw. All narrow RPTV sets have the same problem unless they have a very expensive lens setup. The amount can vary from set to set. There is no way to correct it in the set itself.

Most people don't notice it with widescreen material. It's much easier to see with 4x3 SD material. Of course it's easy to see if you use the set as a computer monitor.

Check out some display models. If your's is worse than what you see in showrooms maybe you can exchange it. Front projectors, Plasma, LCD flat panel, and direct view CRT sets don't have this problem.


thanks htwaits. i'll take a look at some display models to see how my pincushion issue compares to other sets. i noticed the screen smudges reappear last night (will disappear after about 30 minutes or so) so maybe i'll have samsung come out to take care of the screen smudges and see what possibilities there are with exchanging the set if the display models don't exhibit the same amount of bowing.

what are "screen smudges"

what are "screen smudges"

best way to describe them are smudges that look like they come from someone who touched the screen with oily fingers in certain spots, but the smudges are actually behind the screen so you can't clean them from the outside. they only tend to show up when the ambient temperature is cooler (i.e., when i have the patio door open and cool air is blowing onto the tv), and will eventually disappear after viewing tv for an hour or so. they're not readily noticeable except when the screen is showing a bright image (e.g., white background).

new owner for a few days now. the tv hlr4667 looks great, especially watching INHD.

the only problem i am having is that my current sound system, dinky as it is, i am happy with the combo samsung dvd player/5.1 dolby sound system. however, because my sound system lacks enough inputs, i've decided to use the tv as my input hub, then send a Digital Audio Cable outputed to my sound.

at first i used simple RCA red/white to get by, but reading the Samsung HLRxx67 Manuel, it states that outputing sound from the TV --> Stereo System via RCA, you must first run the audio into an amplifier. Apparently my system doesn't qualify, so my HDCable Feed and PS2's sound would only output directly from the TV. Instead the manual stated to connect via Digital Audio Cable. So I ran out and found the cheapest D.A.C. I could find, it turned out to be Monster Cable FiberOpticAudioCable, 20$ at Target.

Hooking it up, I twisty tied the nightmare of cords, and whalla. My dvd/stereo was outputting the sound EXCEPT. For some unknown reason, which I will be calling Samsung this afternoon for, the sound coming out of my stereo versus my tv's speakers was much lower in gain. Confused, i popped in "The Fifth Element" DVD and listened as the stereo system really kicked in and boomed like its supposed to. But why the lower volume out when i switch the stereo source back to Digital In. It is truely like my stereo can now only reach half its intended volume.

Current Possibilities, I guess.

- the 4ft Optic cable is too long ( i dont think so but this is the first I've owned one of these)

- Maybe by twisty tieing the Optic Cable, I've somehow damaged it, not allowing the full/true signal to reach the stereo.

- Maybe the signal converting ELECETRIC --> LIGHT --> ELECTRIC it loses some form of output power diminishing the signal. ( this would be mightly wierd though)

I will be back on later in the afternoon. I work nights and this is when i sleep. I'll let you know what Samsung says about the issue.

OH PS. - I have also attempted, more than once accessing the HLR's menu/sound and even after reading the manual I can't figure out WHY the option for DIGITAL AUDIO OUT is faded gray and unselectable. I can tell you though that the only thing you can change is choosing between PSM or DOLBY. Currently it is faded out with PSM as the current choice. I have disconnected and reconneced both sides of the Digital Audio Cable thinking that maybe it wasn't in all the way, therefore the TV isn't recognizing it. I'll Try Again.

Thanks

OH PS. - I have also attempted, more than once accessing the HLR's menu/sound and even after reading the manual I can't figure out WHY the option for DIGITAL AUDIO OUT is faded gray and unselectable. I can tell you though that the only thing you can change is choosing between PSM or DOLBY.

Thanks

The Samsung grays out the parameters that are not valid at that particular time. So if it doesn't apply right now, it's gray. You need to be on a digital channel before being able to change the sound output format. On analog channels only PCM applies so it doesn't allow you to change it if you're on an analog channel. I'm assuming you're using the internal tuner.

Regarding your audio problem, I suspect that you are noticing the difference between normal 2 channel audio and Dolby Digital 5.1. If you pipe the sound through the TV you will minimize lip sync problems but you're stuck with standard L/R stereo. (I.e., no subwoofer, no surround sound, no LFE.) If you play audio directly through your system and send only video to the TV, you'll get DD5.1 or whatever the disc is encoded with. Possibly you'll get lip sync problems if you're fussy/unlucky, but probably not. The short answer is not to send the DVD audio through the TV.

Jon

I currently have my 67W set to Dynamic mode for all TV (HD & SD) and my DVD set to Standard. I think the picture is excellent (IMHO anyway). I do have the Avia DVD. I notice that in Dynamic mode the contrast is pushed all the way up but all other adjustments are about the same for Standard & Cinema modes. Can the high contrast level be detrimental in some way? Also has anyone used the Avia disc for setup?
TIAS,
Erock

I currently have my 67W set to Dynamic mode for all TV (HD & SD) and my DVD set to Standard. I think the picture is excellent (IMHO anyway). I do have the Avia DVD. I notice that in Dynamic mode the contrast is pushed all the way up but all other adjustments are about the same for Standard & Cinema modes. Can the high contrast level be detrimental in some way? Also has anyone used the Avia disc for setup?The contrast settings have no effect on the set other than your viewing experience. Using dynamic however will - it drives the lamp at a higher wattage and cuts the expected lamp life in half. Dynamic is really intended for high ambient lighting situations like a showroom. Unless you have a glass house in the White Sands monument :cool: , you shouldn't need to be using it.

I currently have my 67W set to Dynamic mode for all TV (HD & SD) and my DVD set to Standard. I think the picture is excellent (IMHO anyway). I do have the Avia DVD. I notice that in Dynamic mode the contrast is pushed all the way up but all other adjustments are about the same for Standard & Cinema modes. Can the high contrast level be detrimental in some way? Also has anyone used the Avia disc for setup?
TIAS,
Erock

It will not hurt the TV, but your EYES.... that's another matter! :D

The contrast settings have no effect on the set other than your viewing experience. Using dynamic however will - it drives the lamp at a higher wattage and cuts the expected lamp life in half. Dynamic is really intended for high ambient lighting situations like a showroom. Unless you have a glass house in the White Sands monument :cool: , you shouldn't need to be using it.

Thanks kjongsma & videoguy,
WOW, I had no idea about the Dynamic mode setting pushing the lamp wattage. Is there and print material on this?

I've had my HLR 5067 for about 1.5 weeks now. After about 1 hour of use, it quit working. No screen, but the light was still on and the screen would show some light too. Had Samsung service come out. He first replaced the whole light engine, didn't fix it. then he replaced the main digital board and that fixed it. Just figured I'd pass that info on in case anyone else runs into problems.

The piture is great, and I don't even have my HD box from Time Warner yet.

Have people seen huge improvements with calibration or anything like that? Once my HT is done I'll buy some setup DVD's, but I'm not sure if it's entirely worth it for my new set.

Well tonight I did alot more testing of the Samsung 5067w at three different stores: Circuit City, Best Buy and Tweeter.

Tweeter - Got to watch some nice HD signals that looked very good. Can barely notice a difference between 1080p Sony and the 720p Mits. They didn't have a Samsung on the floor showing tv signals. Also got to see digital channels such as CNN that looked fine. They didn't have Comcast cable so I didn't get to see what analog looked like. Went back into one of the rooms and got to watch a DVD on the 5067w and it was very very nice. Really no complaints.

Best Buy - Oh boy, where do I start with this place. Well the fact that they only had HD signals going to every single tv there made it hard to see what the HDTVs can really do. The good news was that they had a PS2 hooked up to their only Samsung 5067w but didn't have a game in it. The salesman wasn't also willing to try a game on it of theirs nor was he willing to let me bring one of mine. Very lame. They weren't really selling this tv to me at all.

Circuit City - Didn't spend too much time on the 5067w there but just wanted to view analog stations again since they use Comcast (please read my last big post here). Channels looked alright. I was standing about 10 feet away from the tv and it was the closest you'd wanna be in analog mode. Picture also looked better in normal mode than stretched. Also, I felt that the HD channels looked just as good as the other two stores. Just as I left I checked out some digital movies they had on Encore channel and it looked nearly as good as a DVD. It'll be nice whenever Comcast upgrades all of their stations to digital.

Still cant decide on getting a HDTV. On one hand they are really really cool for HD and DVD sources and some digital programming. But maybe its best to wait another year or two until all channels are digital and when everyone figures out if 1080p or 720p is the standard. Sure one of better but will tv stations use it capability. I can wait on an HDTV but it would also be fun to own one now. Any recommendations?

my recommenation is:
you could die tomorrow so buy today;)

seriously though I think that at some point with electronics you have to just suck it up and buy. There will ALWAYS be some new standard or some excuse to wait "just one more year". In my experience the deadlines people create for new standards of market turning points can be rather innacurate. Sure maybe in 1 year we will have some great wonderful new standard and those who bought the wrong type of tv will hate ourselves and those who waited just 1 year will be so happy but more likely than not in 1 year I will be just as happy with my hlr-5067 and if you haven't bought a new t.v., you will be saying "in 1 more year...":)

oh and I just have regular boring analog cable. Looks great to me and we get all the basic networks (and a few more) in OTA HD broadcast for free-I freaking can't wait for football season! My in-laws have an older projection t.v. and when my mother in law watched the new t.v. for an hour or so and returned home she turned to her husband and asked him "how come our t.v. is in black and white"-she was serious...pretty funny

Another question for what the guy at Best Buy mentioned about video game lag on the PS2:

He stated that only the older models of PS2 that don't have progressive scan show lag. This true?

Another question for what the guy at Best Buy mentioned about video game lag on the PS2:

He stated that only the older models of PS2 that don't have progressive scan show lag. This true?


I'm not claiming to be a definitive source but from the research I did on the subject, here's what I believe to be true. The older PS2 (not slimline) has the ability to play games in progressive mode if the game supports it, but will not play DVDs in progressive. This is true for even the first PS2 shipped. The newer slimline PS2 can both play progressive mode games and will play DVDs in progressive.

The lag issue is going to be worse when playing 480i games. For PS2 this is the vast majority of them, unfortunately. Far more Xbox games are 480p or better.


Jon

I got my PS2 in January 2004 and I believe it will play progressive scan dvds. I did some tests with my old DVD player that I know for a fact doesn't support 480p and you could tell the difference between that and the PS2. Especially with the background in scenes because the 480i would look very blocky.

So if I take a 480i game and play it in the newer PS2 systems, will it upconvert it to 480p and eliminate the lag? Sounds like it.

Also, the DVD player they had at BB was a slimline. Very nice looking.

So if I take a 480i game and play it in the newer PS2 systems, will it upconvert it to 480p and eliminate the lag? Sounds like it.

Only certain games support progressive scan on the PS2. I believe the majority don't. I'm looking forward to trying out God of War, though, which I think does support it.

I was annoyed to discover that my GameCube doesn't have a component-out port. Apparently the older models do, but they removed the port when they dropped the price last year...

I'm no expert but I think bending an optical cable interferes with the light/LED signal that carries the sound. It's probably not damaged but I would try using as few turns and bends as possible.

I was annoyed to discover that my GameCube doesn't have a component-out port. Apparently the older models do, but they removed the port when they dropped the price last year...

You can call Nintendo and they will replace your GC with a refurbished one with the component input. I don't know why they even removed it to begin with, as I imagine it can't cost much. I bought the component cables, but frankly I'm not much impressed with their 480p games. Most of them seem "grainier" somehow, though the picture is sharper. Zelda: Windwaker is pretty bad, it shows a screen door effect on my 6167w (only time I've seen sde on a dlp, and it's not perfect squares, either, but more like rectangles, weird).

I bought the component cables, but frankly I'm not much impressed with their 480p games. Most of them seem "grainier" somehow, though the picture is sharper. Zelda: Windwaker is pretty bad, it shows a screen door effect on my 6167w (only time I've seen sde on a dlp, and it's not perfect squares, either, but more like rectangles, weird).

Interesting--I probably won't bother then. (I'm actually going to be hooking it up to a 6168, but presumably that would be no better, and possibly worse.)

Thanks for the info.

The repair person came out yesterday and installed the new light engine which pretty much looked like a complete PC.

Smudge gone - hopefully that is the last one! He said the light engine was around $1000! I'm thinking the extended warrenty sounds like a good idea!

The repair person came out yesterday and installed the new light engine which pretty much looked like a complete PC.

Smudge gone - hopefully that is the last one! He said the light engine was around $1000! I'm thinking the extended warrenty sounds like a good idea!

Who did you get the extended warrenty from?

I have not bought one yet - I'll probably get it from tvauthority. I have a year and three months from Samsung.

I have not bought one yet - I'll probably get it from tvauthority. I have a year and three months from Samsung.

I've heard that TV Authority is not a Samsung dealer or something. So they don't have any of their parts meaning that if something breaks, you have to go through somewhere else to get it fixed even if you have a warrenty. Is that true?

And I've heard that OneCall, http://www.onecall.com/, is a Samsung dealer. I think I got the wrong wording but you understand. Any luck with this company?

I just don't wanna get my TV from Circuit City or Best Buy. Too expensive when its basically the same as getting it online somewhere else.

^ok good. I was nervous that going through TVA would be bad.

As for the price difference, I would say CC had their 4667 for about $300 more, plus taxes and $40 to ship it. No where near what TVA was offering. I could probably get them to knock off the taxes and shipping and maybe another 100 but TVA is still cheaper. The only thing that CC has is getting it to me sooner. But I believe that Onecall has a 3-day delivery where TVA was about 10 days.

Anyone here have a review on buying from TVA or another online site?

I was told by Samsungs Steve P from Corp Office on Monday that TVA is Not a Authorized Samsung dealer...he said they must have a arrangement with someone that is....I ask him if the warranty was still good and he said yes it is still good and Samsung would honor it...I could care less if they are or not...they have the best prices and their service is great for a e-tailer....I called him about the 67" delays which by the way should be shipping between 8-5 and 8-9 and he said they should be able to fulfil 80% of all orders in the USA with this shipment. The delay was because of the light engines...no other info. Note!!! B&M will get these sets first!

Interesting.

So what is the difference with an online store or local retailer that is an Authorized Samsung dealer compared to one that isn't? If you get a warrenty with them, how does it matter as to where you purchase the tv from?

This is my biggest argument with the guys from Circuit City and Best Buy but they refuse to compare their prices to online sites because they said you dont know what your getting or how good it will be. I figure since they work off commission, it would be in their best interest to sell me this tv at a reasonable price. Which local stores have their workers on commission?

Interesting.

So what is the difference with an online store or local retailer that is an Authorized Samsung dealer compared to one that isn't? If you get a warrenty with them, how does it matter as to where you purchase the tv from?

This is my biggest argument with the guys from Circuit City and Best Buy but they refuse to compare their prices to online sites because they said you dont know what your getting or how good it will be. I figure since they work off commission, it would be in their best interest to sell me this tv at a reasonable price. Which local stores have their workers on commission?Tweeters people are on commission...BB and CC are not anymore...Tweeter will at most give 10% if you are lucky...I personally are going with the powerbuy...as I have done before...TVA has been very good to me. :)

Has anyone noticed a slight bowing on the bottom silver part of the HLR series? The gap between the black screen bezel and the silver speaker horizonal 'panel' on my HLR5067W seems to be tapering quite visibly... The distance between the two pieces tapers in as one traverses to the edge of the TV. The distance of the black and silver pieces is 12/16" at the point were the recessed gray pedestal, and 9/16" at the edge of the TV.

I think the problem my be because the TV is on the Samsung stand, where the front of the TV rests mainly on the outer edges of the silver panel:
Has anybody else seen this effect?

My 61" HLR has developed a noticeable sagging issue. A Samsung tech came in to look at the set. He said the factory is aware of the issue and is working on a solution.
Meanwhile, I have crafted a pair of shims to support the weight at each corner. Hope the Samsung solution is more attractive than mine.