Tweeters people are on commission...BB and CC are not anymore...Tweeter will at most give 10% if you are lucky...I personally are going with the powerbuy...as I have done before...TVA has been very good to me. :)

I agree. Local stores just don't want to move an inch with their price and there are barely selling the tv to me with how it preforms. Only a few salesmen sounded like they knew where they were talking about. Once I mention the 68 or 78 series they are clueless.

If I can save about $400 or more by getting everything online, so be it. My only concern is when something goes wrong, how will it be when dealing with an online site. My problem with BB and CC, is that they can't give me any reason to buy it locally.

I agree. Local stores just don't want to move an inch with their price... If by local stores you mean the local outlet of a national chain (ie BB, or CC), pricing policy is established by the buyer in the corporate office. With a couple of exceptions, local sales droids & managers have very little authority to discount pricing. At least that was the way things were when I worked retail a number of years ago.

I see frequent references to "B&M" type stores...Sorry, but this on is getting past me...what does it stand for?

Bobcb,
B&M stands for Brick and Mortor which means Best Buy, Circuit City, etc.
WolfpackRon.

I haven't tried any of the online retailers, so I can't compare, but I've gotta say that BB's warrany service seemed pretty good to me. Or maybe I'm just easy...

About 2 1/2 years ago, I bought a Sony 46" CRT projection set (a KP46WT510 if I remember right) from BB, and added their 4-year extended warranty for $300. Sure enough, about a year and a half after I bought the set, the image would flicker and occaisionally turn slightly green. I called BB service, and they were very helpful and very polite. They contacted a local repair shop to send someone out.

To cut to the chase, after a series of repairs, the TV was still having problems (drifting convergence), so BB agreed to replace it. Sony didn't make that set any more, so BB said I could apply the full original purchase price to any set I liked, even on some that they didn't normally stock. I asked if I could think about it, and they said to take my time, do some research, then come back and let them know what I wanted.

After poking around, I decided on the HLR5067W, which they did stock. They arranged to have it delivered and the old set picked up on a Saturday, just two days later, and even gave me a 15% discount on the stand that was supposed to only apply to online purchases. It took an extra few weeks to get the stand, but they still delivered it free of charge.

If there's a failing with BB's service, it's their choice of local shops (or maybe they're just all flakey), because over the course of four months, I had three different shops come out and only one came out when they initially said they would and none of them contacted me as they were supposed to - I always had to call them even though they'd received the info on my repair request.

Anyway, not trying to sound like a BB ad here, but I was pleasantly surprised at the level of service I received in the store.

Thanks Wolfpackron, I have seen that before but just couldn't think of what it was since there were so many references to BB & CC in the same post...I have a HLR5067 from Sears and am extremely happy with it. Using basic Dish with no fancy stereo etc...just enjoy watching a great picture.

I have a question regarding the IR extenders or whatever you call them (not sure what they are called so my searches were not coming back with anything good). Can I use these for anything? If I have a TIVO in a cabinet can I plug this in to the back of the TV and put the other thingie in front of the TIVO? I guess I am wondering if they will just repeat anything that is passed to the TV's IR? I am sort of confused myself or I would have asked the question better. I just got the TV last night (returned a Mits WD52725 that had a tilt issue). I am so glad I ended up getting the HLR5067W in the end!!! I love the looks, picture, and the weight (60 pounds less than the Mits even though it is only 2 inches smaller).

17 days and it died.

Purchashed my HL-R5067W on 7/20/05 from CC....on 8/5/05 it would not turn on.

Lights flashing on front, some clicking sounds, but no picture.

Called CC, they will replace on Monday (8/8/05).

Love the tv, but I hope this is not a sign of things to come.

HLR 4667 Owner 1 month


I am unhappy with my audio issue, happy to death with picture quality. My audio problem happens only when using my High Def Cable Box/DVR.

I have PS2 and DO NOT experience any lag or audio sync issue when playing SOCOM II online. This may be because I have my Input “Conponent2” Named GAME which was just suggested to me by two Samsung CS Reps. I got as far as Tier 2.

For my PS2 if any are wondering, is hooked up via Component, and Fiber Optic Straight to my Stereo to cover the Audio, no problems.

Moving on.

For those wondering or helpful, my CableBox is also hooked via Component and Fiber Optic same way, straight to my Stereo skipping my TV. This makes the audio off sync. Almost not bareable.

If I run both the Audio and Video to my sammie from my cablebox via using component and red/white, then output the sound signal to my stereo all is as sync as ever. However, because the audio out is only analog Left and Right, my Stereo can’t output enough actual volume through my 5.1 Dolby using only incoming L & R signal. This was also verified by the Tier 2 Rep who said, “No that wont work,” in response to my problem. This takes me to running everything digital putting me back at Fiber Optic and Component.

Samsung HLR 67 Series only has 1 Digital Audio Input … HDMI. So that’s it. To me it is either get an HDMI switch box, or a new stereo with multiple Fiber Optic Inputs. Hopefully also equipped with an option for Audio Delay. I’ll run my cable box HDMI achieving digital audio/video, all other audio will be digital straight to my Stereo. This is gonna cost me some.

The Tier 2 rep explained to me that their in nothing from Samsung's side that can rid me of my audio sync issue. It seems that if you don't send the sound into your tv directly as opposed to sending just video > tv and audio > sound system then you will experience audio that is not nearly in sync with what your watching.

The issue is always there, but varies on how bad

My Cable Box is
- Scientific Atlanta 8300 HD /DVR

My 61" HLR has developed a noticeable sagging issue. A Samsung tech came in to look at the set. He said the factory is aware of the issue and is working on a solution.
Meanwhile, I have crafted a pair of shims to support the weight at each corner. Hope the Samsung solution is more attractive than mine.

I see the problem even with my smaller (46") model. Samsungparts.com referred me to Ameriwood, the stand manufacturer. They've called me back a couple of times and want more information on the problem. The ultimate solution will likely be a solid aluminum piece that is the exact footprint of the bottom of each size TV. Their attempt at "one model fits all three" for the 46X3 stand was a colossul failure!

In the meantime, I've put a nice piece of 3/4" plywood under the TV, but it too is beginning to bow.

I have a question regarding the IR extenders or whatever you call them (not sure what they are called so my searches were not coming back with anything good). Can I use these for anything? If I have a TIVO in a cabinet can I plug this in to the back of the TV and put the other thingie in front of the TIVO? I guess I am wondering if they will just repeat anything that is passed to the TV's IR? I am sort of confused myself or I would have asked the question better. I just got the TV last night (returned a Mits WD52725 that had a tilt issue). I am so glad I ended up getting the HLR5067W in the end!!! I love the looks, picture, and the weight (60 pounds less than the Mits even though it is only 2 inches smaller).

Yes, Radio Shack makes a nice pair for about 50 bucks. They convert infra-red light to UHF radio signals. They should work most anywhere in your house. The receiver is placed where it can "see" the unit you are controlling. It converts back to infra-red, and the unit picks up the signal. They work great.

HLR 4667 Owner 1 month
For those wondering or helpful, my CableBox is also hooked via Component and Fiber Optic same way, straight to my Stereo skipping my TV. This makes the audio off sync. Almost not bareable.
<snip>
My Cable Box is
- Scientific Atlanta 8300 HD /DVR

Dave,

Have you set your cable box to always output 720p? That should help if you have not already done so.

Jon

HLR 4667 Owner 1 month


I am unhappy with my audio issue, happy to death with picture quality. My audio problem happens only when using my High Def Cable Box/DVR.

I have PS2 and DO NOT experience any lag or audio sync issue when playing SOCOM II online. This may be because I have my Input “Conponent2” Named GAME which was just suggested to me by two Samsung CS Reps. I got as far as Tier 2.

For my PS2 if any are wondering, is hooked up via Component, and Fiber Optic Straight to my Stereo to cover the Audio, no problems.

Moving on.

For those wondering or helpful, my CableBox is also hooked via Component and Fiber Optic same way, straight to my Stereo skipping my TV. This makes the audio off sync. Almost not bareable.

If I run both the Audio and Video to my sammie from my cablebox via using component and red/white, then output the sound signal to my stereo all is as sync as ever. However, because the audio out is only analog Left and Right, my Stereo can’t output enough actual volume through my 5.1 Dolby using only incoming L & R signal. This was also verified by the Tier 2 Rep who said, “No that wont work,” in response to my problem. This takes me to running everything digital putting me back at Fiber Optic and Component.

Samsung HLR 67 Series only has 1 Digital Audio Input … HDMI. So that’s it. To me it is either get an HDMI switch box, or a new stereo with multiple Fiber Optic Inputs. Hopefully also equipped with an option for Audio Delay. I’ll run my cable box HDMI achieving digital audio/video, all other audio will be digital straight to my Stereo. This is gonna cost me some.

The Tier 2 rep explained to me that their in nothing from Samsung's side that can rid me of my audio sync issue. It seems that if you don't send the sound into your tv directly as opposed to sending just video > tv and audio > sound system then you will experience audio that is not nearly in sync with what your watching.

The issue is always there, but varies on how bad

My Cable Box is
- Scientific Atlanta 8300 HD /DVR

I confirmed with a Samsung rep that nothing can be done to match the audio with video when you route the audio directly to an external HT amplifier. I was looking for a video delay adjustment in the service menu of the TV, but it does not exist.
So if you want 5.1 surround sent to your HT from a cable box or satellite receiver, you'll need to upgrade to an amp with audio delay adjustment capability. The same is true with a DVD player. It needs audio delay capability as well.

I confirmed with a Samsung rep that nothing can be done to match the audio with video when you route the audio directly to an external HT amplifier. I was looking for a video delay adjustment in the service menu of the TV, but it does not exist.
So if you want 5.1 surround sent to your HT from a cable box or satellite receiver, you'll need to upgrade to an amp with audio delay adjustment capability. The same is true with a DVD player. It needs audio delay capability as well.

You can also buy a Felston delay box, which various people have recommended:

http://www.felston.com/dd540/

Rictus,
I have a Yamaha A/V receiver that is approx. 4 yrs. old without a built in delay. Should I consider applying that money toward an upgraded receiver with built in delay? Thanks in advance, WolfpackRon.

I had the HL-R4667, exchanged it twice, and went with the Sony KDF-E50A10. So much better than the HL-R4667.

Problems with the Samsung: humming noise, video lag, text didnt look sharp, horizontal and vertical geometry was off, and sometimes it wouldnt start up. Now remember I went thru two of these.

Now I have the Sony and have none of these problems, PQ is AMAZING especially in HD, text is so much clearer and geometry is straight. If you are having any doubts between the two. Go with the Sony, you wont be disappointed.

I see the lip sync issue is back. I made a long post a while back, complaining about certain braodcasts with problems. I also read about a great idea to make sure that you let the Samsung acknowledge your video input choice by blinking, as opposed to scrolling as fast as possible to the input you want. Or use discrete IR commands to go there directly. Sounds hokey, but I tried it and so far it works. I haven't had any problem with lip sync since. O yeah, I have EVERY possible connection, analog and digital audio; HDMI, component and composite video; AND CableCard and STB, and I've tried them all. I also send my video to the TV and audio to my receiver. I'll keep momitoring, but at this point I think the issue is solved. Never did have any problem with DVD input.

Rictus,
I have a Yamaha A/V receiver that is approx. 4 yrs. old without a built in delay. Should I consider applying that money toward an upgraded receiver with built in delay? Thanks in advance, WolfpackRon.

The Yamaha RXV1500 and 2500 have audio delay. But if you're other wise happy with the A/V receiver you have, perhaps that Felston DD540 is the ticket. Costs a little over 200 bucks.

I just received my Samsung HL-R5667W yesterday and spent the afternoon setting it up. I currently am connected to Time Warner Cable running through a Monster Power HTS 1000 MKII to the Scientific Atlanta cable box (not HD, yet). My Sony Home Theater System is also connected using Monster M1000CV component cables.

When I powered on the Samsung, the first thing that came up on the screen was the TV Guide setup. It was crystal clear - sharp and crisp. Once it was complete, I found myself looking at our NBC affiliate. The picture was somewhat of a disappointment. It is not sharp and crisp (all of the other standard TV's in the house showed a sharp cable picture). I went to the Menu and tried different things - My Color - was interesting as it displays a beautiful picture of a woman with a picturesque golf course in the back ground. It identifies Standard and Custom as a split screen, but that picture is not representative of my channels.

I have ordered the CableCard and a technician will be out in 10 days and then I'll be able to watch the HD channels. My questions are:

1. Prior to my purchase, I read through the forums, and found that by and large most people indicated that the PQ on this set was excellent. Did they mean HD channels or all channels?

2. Any tips suggestions on improving the PQ? While watching several programs last night, the picture appeared "stretched," but checking the menu, it was set on 16x9. The clarity of the picture is not comparable to the 32" regular Magnavox that this Samsung replaced.

3. Should I remove the connection to the Monster Power and run the cable straight to the TV? Should I run the cable straight to the TV bypassing the cable box?

4. Will my picture quality improve once the CableCard is inserted?

Any help or reassurances would greatly be appreciated as I just purchased it the other day.

Thanks.

I can't speak for the CableCard PQ but I can say I noticed a huge difference when removing the cable from my Monster powercenter. I just have a SD TV right now with Comcast Digital. I was missing some digital channels and PQ on SD wasn't all that great with the cable running through the Monster. I checked on the connections, dis- and reconnected everything. Once I plugged the cable straight into the box, the missing channels came back and the picture on standard channels cleared up.

The Yamaha RXV1500 and 2500 have audio delay. But if you're other wise happy with the A/V receiver you have, perhaps that Felston DD540 is the ticket. Costs a little over 200 bucks.

I have last years model, the 2400, and I believe it has audio delay.

When I powered on the Samsung, the first thing that came up on the screen was the TV Guide setup. It was crystal clear - sharp and crisp. Once it was complete, I found myself looking at our NBC affiliate. The picture was somewhat of a disappointment. It is not sharp and crisp (all of the other standard TV's in the house showed a sharp cable picture).

1. Prior to my purchase, I read through the forums, and found that by and large most people indicated that the PQ on this set was excellent. Did they mean HD channels or all channels?

2. Any tips suggestions on improving the PQ? While watching several programs last night, the picture appeared "stretched," but checking the menu, it was set on 16x9. The clarity of the picture is not comparable to the 32" regular Magnavox that this Samsung replaced.

Thanks.

An SD picture will naturally look a little fuzzy, because it is a low-res image being stretched up for display at the Samsung's native resolution. Your 32" set would look pretty much the same if the screen size was the same. The level of fuzz does depend somewhat on the quality of the signal. Some channels will look much better than others. However a true HD picture should look very clear and sharp. You'll know one when you see one.

If the picture looks stretched, the tv is set to the wrong aspect. Most broadcast stations are still at 4:3, so you want the tv set to the same. You'll have vertical black bars on the sides. Some content is sent letterboxed in the 4:3 frame, giving bars all the way around. For that you can use the Zoom mode, though personally I don't like the extra graininess it causes.

You can fake a 4:3 screen into looking 16:9 using Panorama, which stretches the edges outward to fill the whole screen, but I personally find the distortion unacceptable. It's like watching through a fish-eye lense.

I just received my Samsung HL-R5667W yesterday and spent the afternoon setting it up. I currently am connected to Time Warner Cable running through a Monster Power HTS 1000 MKII to the Scientific Atlanta cable box (not HD, yet). My Sony Home Theater System is also connected using Monster M1000CV component cables.
<snip>

I have ordered the CableCard and a technician will be out in 10 days and then I'll be able to watch the HD channels. My questions are:

1. Prior to my purchase, I read through the forums, and found that by and large most people indicated that the PQ on this set was excellent. Did they mean HD channels or all channels?

2. Any tips suggestions on improving the PQ? While watching several programs last night, the picture appeared "stretched," but checking the menu, it was set on 16x9. The clarity of the picture is not comparable to the 32" regular Magnavox that this Samsung replaced.

3. Should I remove the connection to the Monster Power and run the cable straight to the TV? Should I run the cable straight to the TV bypassing the cable box?

4. Will my picture quality improve once the CableCard is inserted?

Any help or reassurances would greatly be appreciated as I just purchased it the other day.

Thanks.

Hi. I have a HLR5067W and may be able to help. It took me a while to get my cable feed producing the best signal.

First off, don't play with the picture settings yet. Wait until you get your incoming signal configuration nailed down. The factory defaults are close enough for what you have to do first.

You didn't make it clear if you have digital service or analog. For starters, ditch the cable box and the Monster Power for the time being. You can try them later, but first things first. Plug the coax straight from the wall into the back of the TV. In my case I had to remove a bunch of unused splitters that degraded my cable signal. Digital service would help greatly to keep the signal from degrading.

Make sure the input is set to Cable, not Air. Even if you have analog service you probably will be getting a few digital SD channels and the big 5 HD channels (ABC, PBS, NBC, etc.) The cablecard is needed only to descramble premium channels (HBO, TMC, etc.). The free stuff will be handled by the internal tuner even without the cablecard. Typically analog SD is kind of fuzzy but very watchable with a good cable signal and not at all as bad as many people say, digital SD is pretty good, and HD is awesome if it's really HD content and pretty good if it's SD content being broadcast in HD.

Like has already been mentioned, you need to be careful about what aspect ratio the TV is set for. Stick with 4:3 for now. It will automatically switch to 16:9 if it receives a HD signal. You only need to set it for 16:9 for some DVDs (and probably for cable STBs, which I don't have).

Once you've figured this part out, reintroduce the other items (STB and Monster Power) and see if they actually do degrade the picture.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

Jon

I have last years model, the 2400, and I believe it has audio delay.

Yours does, but my 1400 does not. Hindsight is 20-20. I almost sprung for the 2400. Oh well.

I'm working with my HLR4667W's discrete (EFC) codes. Does anyone know what discrete on and discrete off are for, what they do and what they are used for?

TIA,
Erock

I'm working with my HLR4667W's discrete (EFC) codes. Does anyone know what discrete on and discrete off are for, what they do and what they are used for?

TIA,
Erock
Discrete on and off are just that. A signal to turn it on and another signal to turn it off. As opposed to your standard "power" command which will turn it on if the tv is currently off or turn it off if the tv is currently on (a toggle).

Discrete commands are useful mostly in macros. e.g. you set up a macro to turn the tv on, turn the dvd player on and set the tv to the correct input. If you use a "power" command in that macro, then you'd have to make certain the tv is off before using the marco or it will actually turn the tv off. Using a discrete on command while the tv is already on would result in the tv staying on and you getting the desired result.

If that's too muddy of an explanation, let me know and I'll try to clarify.

You didn't make it clear if you have digital service or analog.
Make sure the input is set to Cable, not Air. Even if you have analog service you probably will be getting a few digital SD channels and the big 5 HD channels (ABC, PBS, NBC, etc.) The cablecard is needed only to descramble premium channels (HBO, TMC, etc.). The free stuff will be handled by the internal tuner even without the cablecard. Typically analog SD is kind of fuzzy but very watchable with a good cable signal and not at all as bad as many people say, digital SD is pretty good, and HD is awesome if it's really HD content and pretty good if it's SD content being broadcast in HD.

Like has already been mentioned, you need to be careful about what aspect ratio the TV is set for. Stick with 4:3 for now. It will automatically switch to 16:9 if it receives a HD signal. You only need to set it for 16:9 for some DVDs (and probably for cable STBs, which I don't have).

Once you've figured this part out, reintroduce the other items (STB and Monster Power) and see if they actually do degrade the picture.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

Jon

Thanks for your suggestions.
I do subscribe to digital cable; however, it is not introduced until channel 100. All of the local affiliate channels are below channel 11. Yes, it is set to cable. I switched the screen size to 4:3 and it appeared much better. Also, I recieved other posts that described that the picture quality of SD channels remains the same, but by introducing a 56" screen the picture will appear to be degraded a bit.

As to the CableCard, yes, I do have several premium services, including digital tier, movie tiers, sports tiers, etc., but the closest HD antenna is approximately 35 miles from my house and I cannot install an antenna in my neighborhood. I have not tried a small indoor (rabbit ears) antenna to see if I can pick up any OTA HD signals, but I may try this weekend. The CableCard would be another benefit to receiving the HD signals, correct?

I've heard from a few people that the cable card is free. If it is, then I would probably have both that and the STB so that I can get a better picture with the card and On-Demand with the box.

Thanks for your suggestions.
I do subscribe to digital cable; however, it is not introduced until channel 100. All of the local affiliate channels are below channel 11. Yes, it is set to cable. I switched the screen size to 4:3 and it appeared much better. Also, I recieved other posts that described that the picture quality of SD channels remains the same, but by introducing a 56" screen the picture will appear to be degraded a bit.

As to the CableCard, yes, I do have several premium services, including digital tier, movie tiers, sports tiers, etc., but the closest HD antenna is approximately 35 miles from my house and I cannot install an antenna in my neighborhood. I have not tried a small indoor (rabbit ears) antenna to see if I can pick up any OTA HD signals, but I may try this weekend. The CableCard would be another benefit to receiving the HD signals, correct?

I don't subscribe to digital cable so I don't know 100% for sure how it works, plus it's not the same from vendor to vendor and from city to city.

So you temporarily have the cable going straight into your TV (no STB) and you don't see any HD channels? You might have to hunt around for them but most people have reported that they're there. In my case PBS is channel 2 and PBS-HD is 2-1. NBC is 11 and NBC in HD is 11-1. Other people report that the HD channels are up in the hundreds. These are all free and are unscrambled. You'll need the cablecard for scrambled signals, whether HD or SD.

Cablecards are not typically free. They have to provide them in the US but they don't have to do it for free. They're about $2.75 per month in my area. But they're only one-way so on-demand service must be done via a phone call rather than clicking the STB remote.

Jon

I have the HLR4667W and was wondering how I can access the maintenance menu I've been reading about. I'd like to know the hours on the bulb and find out what other useful information is available in this menu. If someone can expand on the menu, what it contains and how to access, that would be great.
TIA,
Erock

I have the HLR4667W and was wondering how I can access the maintenance menu I've been reading about.
New information for HLR owners.

Originally posted by millerwill
BTW, it is not longer necessary to enter the Service menu to find out what firmware version you have. You can go to Function Help (pg 84 of the manual), set it to on and then press Info. Or you can get it and other diagnostic info as follows:

Mute-1-8-4-Exit will display screen 1 of Diagnostic Status
Mute-1-8-5-Exit will display screen 2 of Diagnostic Status
Mute-1-8-6-Exit will display screen 3 of Diagnostic Status

I got this directly from Samsung tech support, and it works.


Originally posted by millerwill
htwaits: Is it possible for you to give a step-by-step 'idiot proof' protocol for going into the SM and making this gamma change? I've never been into the SM and have always been nervous about the idea. But you sound like it's worth it. (Have a 6163.)
Can one idiot protect other idiots? ;)

Here are the "enter-SM" instructions for the HLN sets. They are the same for a HLP set but the contents of the SM and navigation keys are different. I haven't checked all the navigation instructions myself.

Find Samsung Firmware Version:

The firmware version installed on any set is recorded on the first page of the SM. There is a long ID number at the bottom of the page. The last three digits (HLN) or last four digits (HLP) are the firmware version of your set.

Remember that in any dealing with Samsung you are not supposed to know your firmware version.

Record your User Settings for "Picture" before you enter the SM. The HLP sets will revert to factory defaults for the UM when you exit the SM.

Instructions for accessing the Samsung Service Menu:

Anyone using these suggestions should know that the only change I have ever made to the SM is changing GAMMA from the default value to zero. I have never "messed around" in the SM. Remember that there is no reset function. If you see something that looks like one don't use it.

I can recommend, without any reservations, recording all original SM settings before making additional changes.

****** Thanks to LCH. 09/02/2003 ******

Turn Melody off in the user menu (allows entering the Service Menu from power On state without using a lamp cycle).

With the set ON, press Power-Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession.
(If the set is already off, just do Mute-1-8-2-Power )

The service menu should appear for the input you were viewing before keying the above sequence. Be sure to give the set enough time to complete the process(30-60 seconds).

While in the service menu, you can change inputs with the TV/Video button to view the SM for other modes.

Use the CH up, CH down & select keys to navigate the Service Menu. Press MENU to return to the main Service Menu after viewing individual functions.

Later, you will use the VOL(+) & VOL(-) keys to change the SM values.

" ... when you access the SM on the HLPxx63 (probably all HLP models), the directional arrows around the "Enter" button control navigation, not the volume and channel buttons ..." MacGyver1970.

To Exit the SM, power off. Leave it off for several(30) seconds. (until all cooling activity is complete)

Example steps to change GAMMA on a HLP5063 with firmware version 1011 and a build date of May 2004:

The SM main menu looks like this.

1. DDP1011 (The GAMMA setting is here.)
2. GM1601
3. DNIe
4. FLI2310
5. CXA2171
6. Vsp9437
7. Upd 64083
8. CCA
9. SP Actuator
10. OPTION (The tally of hours of lamp operation is in this menu.)

Ver: T_ATLNUS_1011 (this is the firmware version)

First record user menu entries for "picture" and enter SM.

Steps from the main SM.

1. Select DDP1011 using the directional arrow keys -- up and down.
2. Enter DDP1011. I used the right arrow key but maybe the "enter" key will work too.
3. Select GAMMA using the up or down arrow key.
4. I entered GAMMA using the right arrow key, but the "enter" key may also work.
5. I used the right and left arrow keys to change the value of GAMMA.
6. I used the up arrow key to return to the DDP1011 menu. Again, the "enter" key or "menu" key might do the same thing.
7. I returned to the main SM with the "menu" key.
8. Power off and wait for a full shut down to save entries that you have changed in the SM.

9. Power on after about 30 seconds and enter your user menu picture settings.

This change to GAMMA makes "some" owners happy. I feel that after setting GAMMA to zero and setting brightness with the DVE DVD that the details in dark scenes were improved. To really get the most out of our set I am getting an ISF calibration done by SethS.

As of 12/14/2004:
Mode = Cinema
contrast = 90
brightness = 45
sharpness = 0
color = 48
Digital NR = OFF
DNIe = OFF

Enjoy.

When connecting my new 5667, I connected the digital cable box (not HD) using RF cables to the input of the TV. (CableCard installation next week). I then used a Monster Fiber Optic cable and connected the TV to a Sony Home Theater.

My receiver has a blue indicator light that illuminates when Dolby Digital 5.1 is detected. Will I be able to receive Dolby Digital 5.1 sound through the HT with this setup? How about when I remove the digital cable box for the CableCard?

Thanks.

htwaits, Thank you!
The info is GREAT. Hopefully this idiot can make use of it ;)

htwaits, Thank you!
The info is GREAT. Hopefully this idiot can make use of it ;)
Good luck. ;)

Thanks to all who provided input to my previous post. I ordered my HL-R6167W and should be here within two weeks. I also just ordered a Samsung DVD-HD950 and a TR61X2 stand. Should be enjoying this all by end of month.

Question in regards to extended warranties. As I stated before, this 67W cost me nothing, other than a boat load of Marriott Rewards points that took many years to accumulate. But, repairs cost money. I checked Repair Master (at vendor and TVA) and they were hesitating about the zero dollar invoice, which concerned me. I called Sears Warranties and they provided a 5 year master protection agreement, which includes everything (bulb also) and a yearly visit upon request. Cost for this with Sears is about (am I allowed to put this) -- $499.

Let me know your thoughts and recommendations and thanks again for the previous feedback/input.

Ted

Have any TVA customers from the HLR powerbuy received the rebate check from TVA?

I purchased an HLR 4667 and am expecting $200 for the Samsung price reduction and $25 for the powerbuy discount.

I've contacted them three times since late June and get a 'we'll be issuing them soon' response each time.

Have any TVA customers from the HLR powerbuy received the rebate check from TVA?

I've contacted them three times since late June and get a 'we'll be issuing them soon' response each time.

I too have been waiting. I called on Tuesday and got the same canned response. If it's not in the box when I get home today I am calling again.

Have any TVA customers from the HLR powerbuy received the rebate check from TVA?No, and I'm getting a little annoyed now. I traded very polite emails with Kirk about three weeks ago (7/22). Kirk let me know that they were very snowed under with Powerbuy orders, but that the checks would be issued that week, or the following at the latest. Its now been 2 weeks beyond that.

I have an hlr-5067w (love it!!) but just got a DVE (digital video essentials) to tune it.
I like the disc but it seems a little complex-need to spend some more time with it-
1)The color seems off-I tune the blue but then the green it NOT even close and the red is off-any ideas?
2)since its digital and all if someone posts their settings can I just enter these into mine and it will work better-wishful thinking I know but does this work?
3)What is the best thread covering tuning up my fine DLP? I've searched this forum for a while (been on here for months) but was wondering if there was some great post somewhere...what is the best way to go about tuning it up (other than $$ for pros which the wife will never approve!;)

Question in regards to extended warranties. I called Sears Warranties and they provided a 5 year master protection agreement, which includes everything (bulb also) and a yearly visit upon request. Cost for this with Sears is about -- $XXX. Let me know your thoughts and recommendations and thanks again for the previous feedback/input.You would be far better off economically putting the $XXX in the bank. Assuming you registered the set online, you have a 15 month warranty already. That will cover any infant mortality issues with major assemblies. Beyond that, the next likely thing to need replacement is the bulb, and that's less than $200. As to annual visits, we're talk about a TV here, not preventive medicine. Do you bring your car into the dealer for preventative visits?

Went to Best Buy today and tried the 5067w with a PS2 game: Madden 2005. I thought the picture looked somewhat alright but could look better. Mind you that I was sitting about 4 feet from the tv. As for the question of lag, it was definitely there when I was doing kick off and punts due to the kick meter. However, I noticed that you can get your mind adjusted to it. When I came home on my CRT, there was zero lag. A big difference I would say. Although that was the only part of the game I felt you could really notice lag. When playing as the QB or RB, I felt the lag was minor to how you played.

Overall, I can't really decide if this is a reason or not to get a DLP tv. From what I've read and heard from others, is that Xbox games or games that are outputting a progressive scan signal do not show this. So perhaps you can get use to it or basically just wait for the PS3 and Xbox 360 to completely forget about console lag.

Has anyone here tried any PC games to see how perform?

I'm working with my HLR4667W's discrete (EFC) codes. Does anyone know what discrete on and discrete off are for, what they do and what they are used for?

TIA,
Erock


Go to Remotecental dot com. I posted the discretes that work for the HLR series.

Go to Remotecental dot com. I posted the discretes that work for the HLR series.

Could be a little more specific? Which forum? Under which username?

Connectivity question for my soon to arrive HL-R6167W. Will be connecting a Samsung dvd-hd950 via HDMI, with digital audio out from TV to Integra DTR6.5. Our Xbox has the HD pack, with is component video with toslink for digital audio. To avoid lag and to go through the TV with audio, where do I connect the Xbox fiber? Or is there another way to get the audio to the TV, then to the receiver and get 5.1?

Thanks,

Ted

Bad news. There is no way to get DD5.1 into these TVs, even if all you want to do is pass it out to your receiver. (The only way is via coax using the internal tuners.) If you want to get DD5.1 you have to send the audio straight to the receiver . This applies both the DVD and the Xbox. Even with HDMI this is true because the TV and the DVD player will communicate and determine that the TV has only two channel capability, so that's all the DVD player will send it over HDMI.

Jon

When connecting my new 5667, I connected the digital cable box (not HD) using RF cables to the input of the TV. (CableCard installation next week). I then used a Monster Fiber Optic cable and connected the TV to a Sony Home Theater.

My receiver has a blue indicator light that illuminates when Dolby Digital 5.1 is detected. Will I be able to receive Dolby Digital 5.1 sound through the HT with this setup? How about when I remove the digital cable box for the CableCard?

Thanks.

All I know is I've owned two of these sets in the last 2 months. Both has lip-sync problems. The first time, the vendor (Magnolia) offered no solution and looked at me like I was crazy. I decided to return it and try the Mits (WD62725) product out but it had screen "tilt" .... however, using the same amp, same DVD player, and same connections (component), there was no lip-sync issues at all. So, second guessing myself (and being annoyed at the "tilt" issue) I tried a second Samsung (HLR6167) and even bought a new Samsung DVD player with HDMI. Yeah, you guessed it, lip sync issues returned with avengence.

Man, I'm one frustrated individual trying to buy a TV that will work for me. I don't think Magnolia's gonna be sending me a birthday card any time soon ... however, back into the breach, dear friends. Someone will sell me a TV that doesn't have an issue ... I think ... :p

All I know is I've owned two of these sets in the last 2 months. Both has lip-sync problems. The first time, the vendor (Magnolia) offered no solution and looked at me like I was crazy. I decided to return it and try the Mits (WD62725) product out but it had screen "tilt" .... however, using the same amp, same DVD player, and same connections (component), there was no lip-sync issues at all. So, second guessing myself (and being annoyed at the "tilt" issue) I tried a second Samsung (HLR6167) and even bought a new Samsung DVD player with HDMI. Yeah, you guessed it, lip sync issues returned with avengence.

Man, I'm one frustrated individual trying to buy a TV that will work for me. I don't think Magnolia's gonna be sending me a birthday card any time soon ... however, back into the breach, dear friends. Someone will sell me a TV that doesn't have an issue ... I think ... :p

Are you running the sound out of a receiver for a 5.1 sound?

When connecting my new 5667, I connected the digital cable box (not HD) using RF cables to the input of the TV. (CableCard installation next week). I then used a Monster Fiber Optic cable and connected the TV to a Sony Home Theater.

My receiver has a blue indicator light that illuminates when Dolby Digital 5.1 is detected. Will I be able to receive Dolby Digital 5.1 sound through the HT with this setup? How about when I remove the digital cable box for the CableCard?

Thanks.


If you are using your cable card, you will be able to pass 5.1 DD to your receiver.

Has anyone found a way to use the D-Net (aka IEEE-1394, firewire, etc) with a PC? Specifically I would like to use a PC to control the tuner and capture video and audio on the PC from my HL-R5067W.

I found a message on someone who created SW to control set top boxes
(at the greenbutton, message ID 104152, avs forum won't let me post the link until I have five posts). but I haven't been able to find anything to control this set.

I have a HTPC hooked up to the set, but I don't have a tuner in the PC. I'm hoping to somehow use the tuner in the television. I'm running XP media center.

Am I barking up the wrong tree? Is there a better method of controlling the tv with a PC?

I'm completely new to this set (it arrived this morning!), its replacing a very old 19" set with knobs to change the channel!

Jay

i just bought an HLR-5067W, really love the image quality esp on native and upconverted HD - a very impressive display esp at this relatively bargain price point!

however there has been a serious issue that could spoil my love affair with the sammy, so i'm hoping you experienced gurus may be able to help with some advice, or at least point me in the right direction?

in a nutshell, whenever there's any sort of fast motion going on, the moving part of the image has a really blurry, headache-inducing appearance for want of a better description...this effect is most significant when the camera is panning, for example.

it's not so much a ghosting issue as some sort of blurriness and slightly staggered/non-smooth motion artifact, and appears regardless of whether i'm watching a cable channel (more apparent in a widescreen HD broadcast) or a DVD (regardless of player and settings - i've tried different models using low-end composite connections thru s-video and component all the way up to playing a Superbit DVD title thru 720p dvi/hdmi from an Oppo up-converting player).

it's a shame really as the picture is truly stunning when the image's relatively static - crisp, clean, vibrant colours, etc.

is this eyestrain/brain-fatigue inducing phenomena an unavoidable byproduct of the DLP technology, or of this Samsung line of rear projection units (i'm thinking not since i have not come across any complaints of this nature pertaining to these fine displays thus far), or perhaps due to some incorrect setting or setup on my part, or possibly a defect in my particular display or its chip?

thanks in advance for listening...

is this eyestrain/brain-fatigue inducing phenomena an unavoidable byproduct of the DLP technology, or of this Samsung line of rear projection units (i'm thinking not since i have not come across any complaints of this nature pertaining to these fine displays thus far), or perhaps due to some incorrect setting or setup on my part, or possibly a defect in my particular display or its chip?

thanks in advance for listening...

Just a guess, but it sounds like you're just seeing normal compression noise. This is the same blockiness you would see on a jpeg image with very high compression. The larger screen size and scaling up non-HD images to fit the screen cause the effect to more noticable.

I've had my 5067 for a couple months now and have seen similar effects on occasion, but never anything I didn't feel was inherent to the source material.

[QUOTE]BTW, it is not longer necessary to enter the Service menu to find out what firmware version you have. You can go to Function Help (pg 84 of the manual), set it to on and then press Info. Or you can get it and other diagnostic info as follows:

Mute-1-8-4-Exit will display screen 1 of Diagnostic Status
Mute-1-8-5-Exit will display screen 2 of Diagnostic Status
Mute-1-8-6-Exit will display screen 3 of Diagnostic Status

I got this directly from Samsung tech support, and it works.

Instead of displaying diagnostic status, Mute-1-8-6-Exit will erase the channel list of my HLR4667w, pressing Info key will only display channel and time info, no where could I find firmware version, anyone having similar experience?

I just bought an HL-R4667W from B&H Photo yesterday, and they have already called to schedule delivery for this afternoon. Excellent turnaround time!

Tonight my old Sony 27" will be retired to the guest bedroom, and I will be enjoying my first night of HDTV viewing at home. Tomorrow Comcast comes with the new HDTV/DVR set-top box.

I can't wait!

[QUOTE=SawyerC]Mute-1-8-6-Exit will erase the channel list of my HLR4667w

Ditto for my HLR6167.

I have been stalking the Samsung HL-R5667W for some time and have made a similar post earlier. I took my wife to Best Buy and Circuit City for the second time to look at this Samsung DLP HDTV. At CC, it was displayed beside a Panasonic PT-61LCX65 LCD which had a much sharper and brighter picture. At BB, the Samsung DLP was displayed beside the new Sony KDF-E55A20 which also had a much sharper and brighter picture. The last time I took her to BB a few months ago, the Samsung was displayed beside a Sony KDF-55WF655 which was also much sharper and brighter. Can someone tell me again why I should purchase the Samsung DLP over these LCD TV's listed above. I am sure there will be people on both sides of this issue. The Samsung HL-R5667W looked darker and a lot less focused at both stores, especially on the white writing and emblems/icons such as the yellow Best Buy emblem,etc.

Do any of the LCD supporters have an opinion/preference comparing the older Sony KDF-55WF655 vs the newer Sony KDF-E55A20? It appears the older model has the PIP and not the newer model. Also, comparing the Sony LCD's vs the Panasonic LCD's, that is the PT-61LCX65? Thanks in advance, WolfpackRon.

Can someone tell me again why I should purchase the Samsung DLP over these LCD TV's listed above.
You might want to also check out the Sony A10. It's supposed to have better black levels than previous LCD TV sets.

This is a Samsung DLP thread so there may not be many LCD owners who read it.

BB and CC are not known for showing their TVs in the best light. LCDs seem to be OK with analog connections. DLP sets do best with digital connections. Component and composite connections are analog and I've seen both at CC and BB stores.

In general LCD technology has some problems keeping up with fast action. Many professional reviewers think LCD does a better job with colors, but blacks are really dark gray. Depending on how far away you sit, the LCD sets may have a screen door effect problem.

DLP sets are fast enough to be good for sports, and generally are thought to be very bright. They have very good black levels and good details in dark scenes. Some people may see rainbows.

If customers have access to the remote controls there is no way to be sure if the set has been badly configured by the last guy who looked at it.

Sharpness is a matter of personal preference when watching movies many people like a softer image. Others who watch mostly HDTV like lots of sharpness to the point of exaggerating it.

Samsung TV models differ in their sharpness depending on which chip they have.

Bottom line is that you should just buy the set you like best.

Went to Best Buy today and tried the 5067w with a PS2 game: Madden 2005. I thought the picture looked somewhat alright but could look better. Mind you that I was sitting about 4 feet from the tv. As for the question of lag, it was definitely there when I was doing kick off and punts due to the kick meter. However, I noticed that you can get your mind adjusted to it. When I came home on my CRT, there was zero lag. A big difference I would say. Although that was the only part of the game I felt you could really notice lag. When playing as the QB or RB, I felt the lag was minor to how you played.

Overall, I can't really decide if this is a reason or not to get a DLP tv. From what I've read and heard from others, is that Xbox games or games that are outputting a progressive scan signal do not show this. So perhaps you can get use to it or basically just wait for the PS3 and Xbox 360 to completely forget about console lag.

Has anyone here tried any PC games to see how perform?

Yeah. I took my XBox to SoundTrack and hooked up Halo2. I did not notice lag, but it could've been that I was just teary eyed and drooling over the set. I too am very concerned about lag... Any others with similar/dissimilar experiences?

^Interesting. I noticed some lag when playing the PS2 version of Madden 2005 during the kicks and punts. It was noticeable but after a few minutes, you mind adjusted. So I'm not sure if this matters or not.

My last two tests are a PC (not sure how I can do this) and I guess higher end systems (not sure how I can do this since xbox 360 is too far away and PS3 is even further).

The general consensus is that anyone with an XBOX has had nearly zero problems which is probably due to their games being at 480p or 720p.

I am on my second 5667w. I returned the first one to CC when the Samsung technician could not fix the problem. I notice the same problem on this second set and would rather not have the technician back. On dark movie scenes I often see large ( half inch ) pixels rather than a smooth picture. Even on HD channels, (Comcast HD DVR to HLR via HDMI) I see noticibly large pixels, rather than gradual color changes, say, on a sky that changes from one hue of blue to another. Can anyone tell me what is going on with this?

Got any pictures of this occurance?

On dark movie scenes I often see large ( half inch ) pixels rather than a smooth picture. Even on HD channels, (Comcast HD DVR to HLR via HDMI) I see noticibly large pixels, rather than gradual color changes, say, on a sky that changes from one hue of blue to another. Can anyone tell me what is going on with this?That sounds like an MPEG compression artifact and not a problem with the set. I've not watched enough Comcast HD to see if I see that on my HLR, but I have seen similar effects on cheap DVDs and highly compressed stuff I've downloaded off the net.

My 5667W arrives on Monday. Why would you want to turn DNIe off; I thought it was supposed to make the screen sharper?

I am on my second 5667w. I returned the first one to CC when the Samsung technician could not fix the problem. I notice the same problem on this second set and would rather not have the technician back. On dark movie scenes I often see large ( half inch ) pixels rather than a smooth picture. Even on HD channels, (Comcast HD DVR to HLR via HDMI) I see noticibly large pixels, rather than gradual color changes, say, on a sky that changes from one hue of blue to another. Can anyone tell me what is going on with this?

What DVD player are you using?

I took delivery on a Sammy 5067 from Sears today. (They packed the wrong manual, but that's a story for another day. :mad: )

When I flip through channels on my Comcast STB, the box will suddenly go dark, stay that way 15 seconds or so, then when it comes back up, all its program data are gone. :( This has happened at least three times today. (It never happened with my dead-pixellated Hitachi 50V500, but that's another story for another day.)

This sounds like some interactive failure between my new TV and the Comcast box (Moto DCT6200). Any ideas? I called Comcast, they pushed a signal through and said to wait and see if the problem continues.

Does anyone know why the Dolby 5.1 option is grayed out on my TV (HL-R4667W )? I have the optical out connected to a receiver that supports DTS and DD 5.1 but I am locked into PCM without ability to change it on my TV. Please Help!

I took delivery on a Sammy 5067 from Sears today. (They packed the wrong manual, but that's a story for another day. :mad: )

When I flip through channels on my Comcast STB, the box will suddenly go dark, stay that way 15 seconds or so, then when it comes back up, all its program data are gone. :( This has happened at least three times today. (It never happened with my dead-pixellated Hitachi 50V500, but that's another story for another day.)

This sounds like some interactive failure between my new TV and the Comcast box (Moto DCT6200). Any ideas? I called Comcast, they pushed a signal through and said to wait and see if the problem continues.

Turn your cable box off, then hit the menu button on your STB remote right away. Try changing the component resolution output to 720p and make sure the 4:3 drop down is at 480i or 480p. See if that works better for you.

I checked some web pages and it appears the 5667W doesn't have a QAM tuner for local stations. If not, where can I get one? Locally?

[QUOTE=SawyerC]


Instead of displaying diagnostic status, Mute-1-8-6-Exit will erase the channel list of my HLR4667w, pressing Info key will only display channel and time info, no where could I find firmware version, anyone having similar experience?


Well, I'm at a loss to explain this. When the Samsung tech told me about it I tried both of these things and they worked (although screen 3 of diagnostics was basically empty). When I tried Mute-1-8-6-Exit today, it didn't erase the channel list, just updated it. And the Function Help ON + Info doesn't work to get you the firmware version either. You can still get the firmware version by Mute-1-8-4-exit, however.

The only difference is I now have a CableCard installed, whereas when I first tried the above "features" I had only a STB. Maybe that's the reason.

I have a hlr-5067w-
will this "Yamaha 700W 6.1-Ch. Home Theater System
Model: YHT-450" work o.k. with this t.v.?
Will I face lipsynching issues?

Does anyone know why the Dolby 5.1 option is grayed out on my TV (HL-R4667W )? I have the optical out connected to a receiver that supports DTS and DD 5.1 but I am locked into PCM without ability to change it on my TV. Please Help!

You're using the internal tuner, not a STB, right? Assuming you are, tune it to a digital channel first, then you can change the sound option.

Jon

Got any pictures of this occurance?

I will see if I can get any good pictures of this problem with my digital camera.

That sounds like an MPEG compression artifact and not a problem with the set. I've not watched enough Comcast HD to see if I see that on my HLR, but I have seen similar effects on cheap DVDs and highly compressed stuff I've downloaded off the net.

Yes, it looks very, very similar to compression artificats. However, being on the second hlr5667w and seeing the occurance on comcast hd box connected via hdmi, and also seeing the same occurance on new dvd's played on my samsung 941 hd upconverting dvd player, it really leaves me wondering what is going on. I also use a monster power cleaner. Some movies are so bad, such as "Gothika", they are almost unwatchable, especially when you have the pixelation problem going on concurrently. Other times, on hd broadcasts, it's just a distaction as color changes across the screen become pixelated gradations with jagged edges. I've seen one or two other posts regarding this matter and look forward to figuring out what is going on and sharing it with everyone.

samsung 941 hd.
via hdmi.

I looked through the postings gor the hlr thread and found several people experiencing the same problem. Large pixels on what should be smooth, gradual color changes. Also, a greater occurence of this problem during dark scenes. However, even bright HD scenes sometimes give me compression looking video. I've swapped comcast HD boxes, and cables. I'm even on my second 5667. I've seen it through my sammy upconverting dvd player too. I have compiled some of the posts regarding this problem into this posting hoping it may assist someone in seeing a connection between cases. I will try to post a good photo of the problem soon. I appologize in advance for the large post duplicating previous posts, but thought it might help.

crazipper New Member Join Date: Feb 2004Posts: 14 I took receipt of an HLR5067W this afternoon and have thus far been fairly disappointed in the set. To begin, it makes a very loud buzzing noise, almost like the high-pitched buzz of a large bumblebee. It periodically gets louder and softer, but is always there. It's clearly coming from the back of the cabinet and switches off about 20 seconds after the TV is powered down.I don't purport to be a videophile by any means, but I've also played with the set's settings in addition to my Philips 963SA DVD player and while I had a respectable picture this afternoon, the past few hours have looked like terrible MPEG compression with blotchy colors, almost like switching from 32-bit color in Windows down to 8-bit. I've tried multiple movies, multiple settings, and can't get rid of the noise or the poor color. I guess tomorrow we'll see how responsive Samsung's customer service is. Of course, I am also more than willing to follow up if the resolution is a positive one.


shanec Member Join Date: Jul 2004Posts: 159 Well, I didn't see a first impressions thread, so.....Its day 3 for my HLR-5667. This is my 1st HDTV. I'm still stunned. Let me just say you have not seen Finding Nemo until you have seen it upscaled on a good big HDTV. If somebody had told me I was watching Finding Nemo on HD DVD, I would have believed it. There is a ton of detail there that I had never seen before - not detail only noticeable by a videosnob/phile, but stuff that would be obvious to anybody. It is simply stunning.And that's the bad news too. Other DVDs - Fight Club, Monster, The Matrix all have moments where artifacts and film grain/dirt/etc are visible. These are all things that are mentioned on most online DVD reviews. I'd seldom ever seen them before. But now the stuff appears regularly. I suppose the artifacts (maybe its macroblocking...but my 97S player is upgraded to the latest firmware which should have fixed that...) are typically worst on dark, but not black, solid background colors (ie: the shadowy green background in The Oracle's kitchen in Matrix Revolutions). But the rest of the image is so stunning, I'm still very pleased with it and I'd never look back for a second.


06-07-05, 09:06 AM #550 (Print)
shanec Member Join Date: Jul 2004Posts: 159 Quote:Originally Posted by mjturnerI am just hoping to hear if any HLP or HLR owners are really, truly, 100% happy with their new tv's? I am interested in buying a HLR5067 and I always seem to read something like, "Great TV except for audio lag" or "best picture out there but I have to switch inputs to watch everything I want". Are there plenty of people out there as happy with the new tvs as they were with their systems before the gear lust set in? Great forum, and thanks for any replies.
I've had my HLR5667 for about a week now. I am convinced lip sync issues are more of a problem from the source material than anything else. I think lip sync issues with DVDs was caused by processing delay in the DVD player which was upconverting the signal to 720p. This issue has been cured by the audio delay setting in my Panasonic S97 player. Be absolutely certain you use a DVD player with an audio delay setting of at least 100ms. I get lip sync issues regularly with OTA HD and I'm confident that's a TV network issue. I haven't tried DirecTV or Xbox yet. But since my TV is primarily for DVD viewing, I'm not very concerned about DirecTV and Xbox.The only outstanding issue I have with my TV, and its likely a setup issue, is with artifacts seen during DVD watching. I see what looks like a blocky or patchy color distortion in medium tone and dark backgrounds. And its almost always only in backgrounds. A tan wall in the background isn't just tan. Its light and dark tan that sort of shimers. Sometimes, it has light tints of other colors that shimmer with it. I see these artifacts in almost every DVD I watch. Some of them are really awful. But its not like this happens constantly throughout a DVD. Its only in certain scenes where this stuff is apparent or bothersome. And trust me, I'm no snobby videophile. I don't see rainbows or 1-pixel wide ghosting and such that some folks complain about.I've got the latest firmware upgraqde for my DVD player (which is supposed to cure macroblocking, and that's why I'm calling my problem artifacts instead of macroblocking). My video settings were set according to Avia calibration which I performed. I haven't gotten in the service menu, so I may try that next. Its been said here that accessing the service menu and lowernig the gamma 2 notches helps shadow detail a lot. Hopefully that will clear this up. I've really done nothing to try to cure this problem. I've been waiting for more suggestions to crop up. Maybe I'll simply try copying someone else's settings that they publish on here.Am I happy? Yes. Would I be happy if the artifacting never got fixed? Yes. This TV is amazing. My only complaint here is that it isn't perfect. No HDTV currently on the market is without drawbacks that are occasionally noticable to novice viewers. Unfortunately, unlike the CRT world, we aren't at a time yet when you can buy just about any brand and get a virtually flawless (to a novice) TV. I simply didn't want to wait 3-5 more years for pricing to be down and high 'quality' to be virtually universal. I put 'quality' in quotes because even with their flaws, today's HDTVs are head and shoulders above SDTVs.In short, if I didn't have an HDTV (which I didn't until recently), I would not hesitate to buy one now. But if I already had an HDTV, I would hold off before upgrading. I don't see spending



07-08-05, 06:27 PM #832 (Print)
catshannon New Member Join Date: May 2005Posts: 5 Help Caliberating my hlr-4667 Hi fellow owners,I am having issues with my DVD picture qualities on my 4667. Here is the setup I have- Sitting 12 ft. from the TV, eye-level is mid-point of TV- Floor lamp (100W) 3 feet away on my left- Trying 2 different DVD setups....first one was a regular panasonic 480p progressive scan connected via component. second one is samsung hd850 connected via HDMII am having issues with skin tones in the dark look HORRIBLE. ...particular example is Frodo/Sam in Mordor...I have attached a picture and you can see how the skin doesnt look right. I have tried the THX optimizer that I have on one of my DVDs. I thought that it might have been the 480p so I got the upconverting player. the picture is using the hd850....the picture seems to be pretty much the same even with the 720p/1080i output from the DVD player. I am at odds on how to fix this...shots in the sun look fine. So does HDTV movies...matrix reloaded on HBO HD looked fantastic (even the dark scenes)Any help/suggestions that you guys might have will be appreciated. SI this something I can fix by getting a DVD caliberation disk. Thanks,Cat Attached Images IMG_09131.jpg (163.8 KB, 143 views)





07-11-05, 03:11 PM #859 (Print)
MJDore Member Join Date: Jan 2004Location: Mt. Juliet, TNPosts: 31 Red faces and red and green shadows everywhere Wanted to post this in the owner's thread as well....thanks for the help--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Hi, guys and gals. I've been reading this board for several months now and I finally jumped in the DLP game and bought a Samsung HLR5667W. I was extremely impressed with the settings straight out of the box until watching "Joy Ride" in HD on Fox last Friday night. First of all, before I get into specifics here is my setup.Comcast (Motorola 6412) - DVI to HDMI...set to 720p outputSony progressive DVD (can't remember the model #) - ComponentDuring the movie, in the dark scenes inside hotel rooms, etc. the walls in the background would give off this awful red and green discoloration that almost looked like the sun reflecting off water. It only appeared in really dark scenes. I also saw the red discolorations in faces that many on here have discussed.Then, the same thing happened on 'Into the West' on TNTHD last night. The scenes inside tents would be almost unwatchable because of this red and green glowing.I tried basically everything. At first, I just had gamma set to the default of 2 and screwed around in the user menu. I used movie mode and turned the contrast down to around 60 or 70, cut the brightness down a bit, and turned DNR off. This didn't help. So, I turned gamma to 0 and used the above UM settings but still the problem was there.Now, I'm at a loss and just changing things left and right in the UM. (Note: the only thing I've touched in the SM is the gamma setting which is now back to the default of 2)I need help but I'm only going to be able to fix the easiest things if I have to go into the SM. I'm not skilled enough to 'tinker.' I don't have a desire to have the most perfect picture out there but I do want to be able to watch dark scenes. What I saw in the two shows mentioned above was unwatchable.


07-18-05, 09:27 PM #896 (Print)
Ed Dixon AVS Special Member Join Date: Feb 2001Location: Abingdon, VA, USAPosts: 1,038 I have had a HL-R4667W set now for a few weeks. One thing I have noticed lately is what I would call a splotchiness in the picture for mostly solid color objects. It is mostly seen on SD DirecTV channels when solid color objects are in somewhat low light. However the effect is still there for DVD source and to a much lesser extent HDTV DTV channels.It looks like the pixels are quite large and somewhat visible. Almost as if shades of colors for a solid color object are limited on a small scale. As the brightness for a solid object changes across the surface, clear breaks are seen rather than a smooth color scale.I have two other HD sets in the house and they do not show this effect. One is an older Mits set and the other a new JVC.Any ideas?Ed



shanec Member Join Date: Jul 2004Posts: 159 Quote:Originally Posted by shanecOK, I'd really like to do some mining here. What's the best way to go about it? A new thread maybe? I'd like to know what video settings - in the 'regular' menus and the service menu' - have been working out well. OK owners, what are you using? More specifically, what video problems have you solved and what settings did the job for you?Please somebody say they fixed DVD artifact problems.
Still no solution. Pretty much anywhere a light colored background is shown in low lighting, it looks all artifacted. I'm sure 'artifact' isn't exactly the right word, because it doesn't look all blocky (like streaming low bandwidth video on the internet). Maybe false color is a better word. It just doesn't happen all the time. Its like the gray scale is and tint is thrown way off in splotches. This is really obvious stuff, as I'm no video snob. I don't see rainbows or other mundane things most folks don't notice.I bought a different DVD player to see if that helps. If not, I'm calling this in.

amajor, I gave up on ever getting my issues fixed as you quoted above. I called Samsung and I have a tech scheduled to come out in a few days. My hope is that he will tell me he can't fix it and I'll move on to either another Sammy or an alternative. Dark scenes are absolutely unwatchable on ALL inputs right now, Comcast Motorola HD and Sammy 950 upconverting DVD.

I have a hlr-5067w-
will this "Yamaha 700W 6.1-Ch. Home Theater System
Model: YHT-450" work o.k. with this t.v.?
Will I face lipsynching issues?

Unless the audio specs say it has variable audio delay (0-160 ms), go with the HTR-5840 or models above that.
Carl

amajor, I gave up on ever getting my issues fixed as you quoted above. I called Samsung and I have a tech scheduled to come out in a few days. My hope is that he will tell me he can't fix it and I'll move on to either another Sammy or an alternative. Dark scenes are absolutely unwatchable on ALL inputs right now, Comcast Motorola HD and Sammy 950 upconverting DVD.

Problem solved! The repairman started by replacing the light engine but the issue was still there. He then replaced the digital board and, voila, problem solved! I can't tell you how nice it is to watch a dark movie (I popped in LOTR to test it) without seeing these red and green "glowings" where shadows should be.

Kudos to Samsung and to their service reps for a job well done. FWIW, the repairman said Samsung was FAR AND AWAY the easiest to deal with for warranty work. He said the sets are also the easiest to work on.

Just thought I'd pass this along.

Problem solved! The repairman started by replacing the light engine but the issue was still there. He then replaced the digital board and, voila, problem solved! Explains why the problem isn't seen by everyone. Good news...

Explains why the problem isn't seen by everyone. Good news...

I've had my HL-R4667W since early July, and didn't notice the blocking originally.
But I sure see it now. I'll wait a bit longer to see if it gets worse, and then call Samsung.

Problem solved!
Good news!

Love my HLR5067 so far, but can't watch it for more than
No PIP Swap button....argghhh.

Hello,

I am very close to pulling the trigger on this set. However after playing with it for a half hour, I found now way to swap the PIP via remote. I had to go through the menu system.

Is this in fact true- no one button swap? If so, that would appear to be a serious design flaw. Is there some other way of accomplishing a PIP swap more easily?

Thanks,
Glenn

Kind of confusing but does the HL-R5067W have a built in HD Tuner?

Kind of confusing but does the HL-R5067W have a built in HD Tuner?Yes. You can tune OTA HD, OTA SD, OTA Analog, Cable SD Analog, Cable SD Digital and Cable HD channels with the HLR internal tuner.

Yes. You can tune OTA HD, OTA SD, OTA Analog, Cable SD Analog, Cable SD Digital and Cable HD channels with the HLR internal tuner.
Thanks. Samsung website says "digital ready" so that is why I was confused.

Hello,

I am very close to pulling the trigger on this set. However after playing with it for a half hour, I found now way to swap the PIP via remote. I had to go through the menu system.

Is this in fact true- no one button swap? If so, that would appear to be a serious design flaw. Is there some other way of accomplishing a PIP swap more easily?

Thanks,
Glenn


So far, you are correct. I e-mailed Samsung tech support about it, enclosing the very lame 14 macro step process I'm stuck with on my Pronto remote to automate it. I tried the HLP discrete IR code for swap, but it doesn't work. We can only hope they fix this (at least the discrete IR part - they won't give you a new remote with a swap button) in the next firmware upgrade.

I just tried my new (30 min old) Samsung 5667w using autoprogram off the air with Cox Expanded cable connected but it found no channels. I tried CABLE. It gives me a choice of STANDARD, HRC or IRC . I tried off the air, off the cable, and off the choice of both Cable and Air but it can't find any channels. The analog I moved worked fine. I just discovered the Source button. It says "No imput devices are plugged in". But they are, I can see them and touch them. Appreciate any ideas?

SD directv and the Samsung HLR 67w sets? Could someone let me know if you have SD directv hooked up with S-video or component cables how is the pq is on these sets? I am looking at either a Samsung DLP or Sony LCD's?
Thanks
jdmac29

SD directv and the Samsung HLR 67w sets? Could someone let me know if you have SD directv hooked up with S-video or component cables how is the pq is on these sets? I am looking at either a Samsung DLP or Sony LCD's?
Thanks
jdmac29

I have the HL-R4667W, hooked to DirecTV via a DVI/HDMI connection. HD PQ is excellent! SD PQ depends heavily on how much compression D* is running on that particular channel. Often times, there is macro-blocking (square or rectangular blotches that flip back-and-forth rapidly to a slightly different color or intensity) in the darker areas of the picture.
I'm going to switch to S-Video and component to see if the blocking is the same or different, and will report back here. Another owner had a serious macro-blocking issue on most channels and DVDs, and had a technician come out. He replaced the digital video board and the problem disappeared. It is quite possible that the Sony will handle compressed SD better with little or no macro-blocking. I suggest you go to a TV store and when you find a Sony and Samsung nearby each other, try to get the salesman to put some SD programming on so you can see for yourself.
In summary, it's not that annoying to me, and doesn't occur on most of the channels. I bought the Samsung for HDTV, and SD PQ was not much of a consideration. In a few years, the shift to HD will be in full-swing, so SD PQ will not be a big factor.

I finally called Samsung and they think it's a bad tuner. They will send someone out to look at it (first part of September). This is an area of over one and a half million people!! I can't believe it takes so long.

so did you guys ever figure out how to turn off dnie

I am a Newbie on this Forum and want to start out with the most important question for me right now regarding my new HLR5067W delivered today.

Here is my situation. I have the Yamaha YSP1 self powered sound system with a Polk 8 inch self powered sub, a Samsung HDMI equipped DVD player/recorder VHS unit and a DTV TIVO HD DVR with HDMI output. I also purchased a Gefen HDMI 2:1 switcher. That’s it. I have already figured out that inputting the DVD and DTV unit into the switcher and then outputting them into the TV’s one HDMI input works to see EITHER the DVD or the DTV signal by switching between them. But how to connect the DVD and the DTV DVR unit so that I can copy from the DVR unit to the DVD unit?

Any suggestions would be deeply appreciated by this wiring challenged HD TV owner.
:confused:

I am a Newbie on this Forum and want to start out with the most important question for me right now regarding my new HLR5067W delivered today.

Here is my situation. I have the Yamaha YSP1 self powered sound system with a Polk 8 inch self powered sub, a Samsung HDMI equipped DVD player/recorder VHS unit and a DTV TIVO HD DVR with HDMI output. I also purchased a Gefen HDMI 2:1 switcher. That’s it. I have already figured out that inputting the DVD and DTV unit into the switcher and then outputting them into the TV’s one HDMI input works to see EITHER the DVD or the DTV signal by switching between them. But how to connect the DVD and the DTV DVR unit so that I can copy from the DVR unit to the DVD unit?

Any suggestions would be deeply appreciated by this wiring challenged HD TV owner.
:confused:

Opps! Almost forgot to include a further concern. After reading several comments here about 5.1 ouput, I wonder if I should send the audio optical outputs from the TIVO and the DVD unit directly to the YSP1 instead of allowing them to go into the switcher and up to the TV. I had planned on using just the TV optical out to the YSP1 to curtail wire clutter but it sounds as if all I would be getting would be two channel sound and not 5.1. Am I wrong?
Why does wiring require a doctorate in engineering? It makes my head hurt. :mad:

After hooking up my new Samsung 5667W, I am unable to find what channel to set it at to play DVD"s. It was channel 90 on the analog set. How do you determine what channel it's set at?

After hooking up my new Samsung 5667W, I am unable to find what channel to set it at to play DVD"s. It was channel 90 on the analog set. How do you determine what channel it's set at? The receiver is at Video 2 correctly. The only way I can play a DVD is thru S-Video and then it's B&W.

Opps! Almost forgot to include a further concern. After reading several comments here about 5.1 ouput, I wonder if I should send the audio optical outputs from the TIVO and the DVD unit directly to the YSP1 instead of allowing them to go into the switcher and up to the TV. I had planned on using just the TV optical out to the YSP1 to curtail wire clutter but it sounds as if all I would be getting would be two channel sound and not 5.1. Am I wrong?
Why does wiring require a doctorate in engineering? It makes my head hurt. :mad:

Reporting back to describe my hookup experience.

Had a private tech come over and attempt to set me up. Very interesting $185 experience. Turns out that to get 5.1 sound from my DVD and DTV, needed to connect optical outs from both units to the YSP1's inputs otherwise all you get is analog stereo from any audio output on the TV using the HDMI connections. Not what one would have expected and not cool when I wanted to take advantage of the HDMI simplicity of connections. So effectively I have lost the HDMI audio utility. (Unless someone here has found a solution to this problem.) Also, to make copies of DVR stuff from the DTV unit, he had to connect purely analog A/V cables from the DTV unit to the DVD. No other combination would work. What a bummer.

One very interesting and frustration problem also cropped up. Using an HDMI switcher has created some real problems for the system. The tech can't explain it and it seems sort like the problems all of us have encountered with Microsoft software. (Sometimes you just have to shut down your computer because it gets confused and hope that it starts up properly later.) Well, occassionally when you switch from the DTV unit to the DVD unit the system gets confused and and won't show video unless you shut off one or the other unit and start over trying to switch between the two sources. I can't explain it any better. It is really hit or miss and does not happen every time. Anyone out there got an idea how this happens and what to do about it?

Lastly, I am thinking that I might scrape the whole HDMI thing and just go with Component connections and optical audio as above. Any thoughts?

SD directv and the Samsung HLR 67w sets? Could someone let me know if you have SD directv hooked up with S-video or component cables how is the pq is on these sets? I am looking at either a Samsung DLP or Sony LCD's?
Thanks
jdmac29
I have sd directv through the rf in. Picture looks great. No issues.

Reporting back to describe my hookup experience.

Had a private tech come over and attempt to set me up. Very interesting $185 experience. Turns out that to get 5.1 sound from my DVD and DTV, needed to connect optical outs from both units to the YSP1's inputs otherwise all you get is analog stereo from any audio output on the TV using the HDMI connections. Not what one would have expected and not cool when I wanted to take advantage of the HDMI simplicity of connections. So effectively I have lost the HDMI audio utility. (Unless someone here has found a solution to this problem.) Also, to make copies of DVR stuff from the DTV unit, he had to connect purely analog A/V cables from the DTV unit to the DVD. No other combination would work. What a bummer.

One very interesting and frustration problem also cropped up. Using an HDMI switcher has created some real problems for the system. The tech can't explain it and it seems sort like the problems all of us have encountered with Microsoft software. (Sometimes you just have to shut down your computer because it gets confused and hope that it starts up properly later.) Well, occassionally when you switch from the DTV unit to the DVD unit the system gets confused and and won't show video unless you shut off one or the other unit and start over trying to switch between the two sources. I can't explain it any better. It is really hit or miss and does not happen every time. Anyone out there got an idea how this happens and what to do about it?

Lastly, I am thinking that I might scrape the whole HDMI thing and just go with Component connections and optical audio as above. Any thoughts?
If I recall, I've seen mention that the copy protection built into hdmi interfaces requires a specific handshake. Something to the effect of the signal must be present on the hdmi input when the tv is turned on or it won't recognize the input signal. I may be wrong about the details, but I know it was something along those lines. Do a search on the forums and you should find something to help you out.

If I recall, I've seen mention that the copy protection built into hdmi interfaces requires a specific handshake. Something to the effect of the signal must be present on the hdmi input when the tv is turned on or it won't recognize the input signal. I may be wrong about the details, but I know it was something along those lines. Do a search on the forums and you should find something to help you out.

Also, there have been many posts as to the audio capability through the HDMI connection. The consensus is that although the HDMI port can ultimately handle 5.1 or higher audio, it doesn't at this time. All you can get is 2.0 stereo.

Thus, to get surround, you need to route the audio from your DVD player, satellite STB or cable box directly to your home theater A/V receiver via the coax or optical connections. For your receiver OTA channels,take the optical audio output of the TV and route it to the HT also. Use the internal audio speakers only if you don't have HT available.

A word of warning: using the direct connections I've described will introduce some amount of lip sync delay, depending on how quickly your TV processes the video. Be prepared to delay the audio with a DVD and/or HT receiver that has audio delay adjustment.

Good luck.

Hi-
I'm a newbie just about to pull the trigger on an HLR4667w. I started out my purchase journey with an intent to go DLP then backed off because of the potential video lag problem when trying for Dolby 5.1- looked to go Sony LCD but have now seen the new Sonys next to the xx67 and the Samsung has better PQ.
PLease advise if my thinking is flawed as follows-
The added processing from the Faroudja chip which gives a better picture also induces video lag when coupled with a HT where the audio comes in via optical.
If I also buy the Samsung HT-P50 I should be able to delay audio by as much as 300 ms.
Will my problem be solved? i.e. get 5.1 Dolby without video lag?
Appreciate benefitting from your comments/expertise.

Thanks

Received HLR4667 this week worked for one day then 3 lights flashing indicating problem with lamp. Samsung rep out today says a Toshiba engine is in this unit and he will need to order Samsung engine to replace it. Was I sold a gray market unit or does Sammy use Toshiba engine?

Ok, these new TVs seem to be as complicated as PCs were when they ran on DOS, LOL!

That said I'm pretty certain the HLR6167W has an HDMI input, but I'm not very clear as to whether is has a DVI input. I wondering because I am interested in getting this TV plus an Oppo DVD player. The Oppo is DVI out but you can order a cable that will allow you to plug into an HDMI input on your TV. So I'm not clear if when ordering the Oppo I need a DVI/DVI connector or a DVI/HDMI connector. I even looked up the Samsung manual for this TV online and it mentioned an HDMI/DVI connector and then went on into "techspeak". So that didn't clarify anything.

Can anyone help me here? Thanks - much appreciated from a long time lurker who's deciding to take the plunge.

If you order the OPPO player from the OPPO site you can specify what cable you want. You need a DVI to HDMI cable for it.

Ok, these new TVs seem to be as complicated as PCs were when they ran on DOS, LOL!

That said I'm pretty certain the HLR6167W has an HDMI input, but I'm not very clear as to whether is has a DVI input. I wondering because I am interested in getting this TV plus an Oppo DVD player. The Oppo is DVI out but you can order a cable that will allow you to plug into an HDMI input on your TV. So I'm not clear if when ordering the Oppo I need a DVI/DVI connector or a DVI/HDMI connector. I even looked up the Samsung manual for this TV online and it mentioned an HDMI/DVI connector and then went on into "techspeak". So that didn't clarify anything.

Can anyone help me here? Thanks - much appreciated from a long time lurker who's deciding to take the plunge.

AkStp is correct. The TV has just the HDMI connector. I got my OPPO DV971H yesterday for my HL-R4667W. The OPPO comes with a free DVI to DVI cable. When ordering the player on the OPPO website, it asks you what kind of input your display device has. I answered HDMI. I thought they would supply the correct cable, but didn't.
You can get the correct cable from PacifiCable or a DVI-to-HDMI adaptor. Either one sells for about 28 bucks.

Thanks for answers, everyone.

Received HLR4667 this week worked for one day then 3 lights flashing indicating problem with lamp. Samsung rep out today says a Toshiba engine is in this unit and he will need to order Samsung engine to replace it.I've never heard of such a thing.

Was I sold a gray market unit or does Sammy use Toshiba engine?Who did you buy it from?

A reputable dealer?

Why did you call for service after one day instead of contacting your dealer?

I've never heard of such a thing.

Who did you buy it from?

A reputable dealer?

Why did you call for service after one day instead of contacting your dealer?


Purchased new thru online dealer linked by samsung web site, Electronics Expo.

Elect Expo policy is to contact manufacture if there is a problem. Will see what happens when they return next week to service with new part. Samsung service rep did not know why Toshiba engine was there and only had parts to repair Samsung engine.

Purchased new thru online dealer linked by samsung web site, Electronics Expo.

Elect Expo policy is to contact manufacture if there is a problem. Will see what happens when they return next week to service with new part. Samsung service rep did not know why Toshiba engine was there and only had parts to repair Samsung engine.

Electronics Expo is extremely reputable and an authorized Samsung dealer. They buy Samsung directly from Samsung, not a jobber or wholesaler like most etailers do. They have a well thought of B&M chain of BigBox stores and showrooms in NY/NJ. Very strange, to say the least. I would certainly contact them and make them aware of this. You will have no problem with them correcting this situation.

Elect Expo policy is to contact manufacture if there is a problem.It sounds like your dealer is legit.

Samsung service rep did not know why Toshiba engine was there and only had parts to repair Samsung engine.I've never heard of a field repair to a light engine itself. Maybe it's just terminology as AkaStp suggested.

I suspect that he meant a Toshiba lamp rather than light engine. My HLM uses a Toshiba lamp but I think the newer models use Philips lamps.


I agree. It must be terminology, just a blown lamp, but i don't think Toshiba lamps are in any new sets being shipped now. Thought they all shipped with Philips lamps? Maybe i'm wrong or maybe the Service Rep just made a mistake?

OK maybe I missed it. I have followed the discussion about lag-time when having HT or external speakers. I am expecting delivery on a Samsung hlr 5667 any day. I will have an amp (Yamaha DSP-A1), dvd and some nice Klipsch KSP400 speakers (with KSP-C center speaker).
After reading all of the trouble about connecting the 5667 to a simple set-up, I've almost decided it wouldn't be worth the effort (although I would really like to). Has anyone had success connecting external speakers? What specifically is the best wiring route? I'm sure there are many others who have been left with this question.

Has anyone had success connecting external speakers?Vast uncounted numbers have and they are enjoying surround sound at this moment. :cool:

What specifically is the best wiring route? I'm sure there are many others who have been left with this question.First you have to pick which input source you will use with your only digital (HDMI) port.

If you have a STB then I would use component for that, and route sound using the digital output on the STB directly to your A/V Receiver.

I would connect an "upscaling" DVD player outputting 720p to the HDMI port, and again, run the digital audio from the DVD players digital audio out to your A/V Receiver.

Some people would reverse the HDMI/component use that I like. It's a matter of personal choice.

I would also put the TV into Cinema mode (or it's equivalent), and wide mode.

You can read an extensive review of the current upscaling DVD players here.

UCSB's Upscaling DVD Review (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5892463&&#post5892463)

htwaits,
Thank you very much,
We will be getting the signal from DISH. We have a 5 year old SONY DVP-S7000 DVD/CD player to use. I hate to trash it (about $800) for a new DVD, but that will be a personal decision. I'll try it and then perhaps use your suggestions if not satisfied. It does have component outputs.

A question I haven't found addressed, is there a chance of damage to the 5667 from the vibration of the 15" powered subwoofers?

I'll comment when I get everything in place.

A question I haven't found addressed, is there a chance of damage to the 5667 from the vibration of the 15" powered subwoofers?Sure, but it depends on where they are. I sure wouldn't have them in contact with the TV. The heavy vibration could be a killer over time.

I have an older non-progressive Sony DVD player connected with component for video. It's OK but not nearly as good as our HTPC, or a good upscaling DVD player outputting 720p to HDMI. The upscaling players start at around $200 and the Sony that so many are using isn't a lot more.

Enjoy.

Hi everybody. Hoping to get some suggestions for an extreme newbie who's just hooked up his new HL-R5067. Even though I saw the occasional bad review, I purchased this model because it was highly rated overall and in all the stores I looked at it in, it was better than the others.

I use the set strictly as a monitor. I have it connected to SD DirecTV via S-video into S-Video1. I have DVD connected via S-Video2, and my VCR via component into AV1.

Here's my problem. The picture from the DVD seems good, with no pixelation, etc. The picture from the VCR through the component input actually looks pretty good too, but of course with limitations from the video source. However, the SD Sat picture is not very good at all. There is quite a bit of diversity among channels, and none are what I would call good.

We've got "free HBO weekend" now, and the HBO and Cinemax are by far the best. However, the picture on other channels can be somewhat "ghosty", in some cases there is pretty obvious patches of pixelation, on some channels there is kind of a screen door effect, and in all cases, graphics are blurry (such as scores that are listed at the bottom of ESPN).

Are bad channels common with SD Sat? Could it be something as simple as bad cables? I'm pretty much planning on getting DirecTV HD set up soon. Should I just get that installed and then see what's up? Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.

Regards, Tim in Illinois

Hi everybody. Hoping to get some suggestions for an extreme newbie who's just hooked up his new HL-R5067. Even though I saw the occasional bad review, I purchased this model because it was highly rated overall and in all the stores I looked at it in, it was better than the others.

I use the set strictly as a monitor. I have it connected to SD DirecTV via S-video into S-Video1. I have DVD connected via S-Video2, and my VCR via component into AV1.

Here's my problem. The picture from the DVD seems good, with no pixelation, etc. The picture from the VCR through the component input actually looks pretty good too, but of course with limitations from the video source. However, the SD Sat picture is not very good at all. There is quite a bit of diversity among channels, and none are what I would call good.

We've got "free HBO weekend" now, and the HBO and Cinemax are by far the best. However, the picture on other channels can be somewhat "ghosty", in some cases there is pretty obvious patches of pixelation, on some channels there is kind of a screen door effect, and in all cases, graphics are blurry (such as scores that are listed at the bottom of ESPN).

Are bad channels common with SD Sat? Could it be something as simple as bad cables? I'm pretty much planning on getting DirecTV HD set up soon. Should I just get that installed and then see what's up? Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.

Regards, Tim in Illinois

The quality of your picture is dependent on a number of factors, but a good place to start is the connections to the TV. You will get the best results by using the highest quality inputs. So, in order of quality: HDMI, component, s-video, composite. Since you are using the two worse methods of connecting things to the TV you are just going to get medicore results. Get a HD cable or sat box with HDMI or component (not composite, like you are currently using from your VCR) and a DVD player (upconverting) that supports HDMI or component. Good choices for the DVD player would be an OPPO 971, Sony DVP-NS975V, or Panasonic S97.

for the suggestions. You are correct, it is composite and not component that I have hooked into the VCR.
Just out of curiosity, where does plain old coaxial cable into the RF outputs rank vs. the other connections? I saw a post several pages back where someone claimed to have SD Sat connected via regular coax with no issues? Just wondering. Thanks again.

Did anyone watch Prision Break last night? I was really disappointed in the OTA reception. I had coax coming straight from the antenna, split off to a 5667w and an old 36" RCA analog. I was 13' from the 5667w and 9' from the analog. I found myself watching the analog more often except for well lit sceens outside in bright sunlight. Indoor scenes were mostly poor lighting and "clay faces". I guess HD has to grow on you. My girlfriend says don't sell it because it is "impressive" sitting there in the living room even when it's off.

Did anyone watch Prision Break last night? I was really disappointed in the OTA reception. I had coax coming straight from the antenna, split off to a 5667w and an old 36" RCA analog. I was 13' from the 5667w and 9' from the analog. I found myself watching the analog more often except for well lit sceens outside in bright sunlight. Indoor scenes were mostly poor lighting and "clay faces". I guess HD has to grow on you. My girlfriend says don't sell it because it is "impressive" sitting there in the living room even when it's off.
Marry her!

Now!

Hi everybody. Hoping to get some suggestions for an extreme newbie who's just hooked up his new HL-R5067. Even though I saw the occasional bad review, I purchased this model because it was highly rated overall and in all the stores I looked at it in, it was better than the others.

I use the set strictly as a monitor. I have it connected to SD DirecTV via S-video into S-Video1. I have DVD connected via S-Video2, and my VCR via component into AV1.

Here's my problem. The picture from the DVD seems good, with no pixelation, etc. The picture from the VCR through the component input actually looks pretty good too, but of course with limitations from the video source. However, the SD Sat picture is not very good at all. There is quite a bit of diversity among channels, and none are what I would call good.

We've got "free HBO weekend" now, and the HBO and Cinemax are by far the best. However, the picture on other channels can be somewhat "ghosty", in some cases there is pretty obvious patches of pixelation, on some channels there is kind of a screen door effect, and in all cases, graphics are blurry (such as scores that are listed at the bottom of ESPN).

Are bad channels common with SD Sat? Could it be something as simple as bad cables? I'm pretty much planning on getting DirecTV HD set up soon. Should I just get that installed and then see what's up? Any comments or suggestions are appreciated.

Regards, Tim in Illinois

Hi Tim:
I am the other newbie who asked for some assistance in settng up my 5067W on page 39. I, too, have been enormously disappointed in the SD PQ. What I have now is HDMI out from my Sammy 325 DVD player to the set and component from the DTV sat unit to the set with digital audio out from both to my YSP1. This is the best connection I can construct with the assistance of a tech and here is what I get. GREAT PQ from the DVD player to the set in all resolutions including upscaling to 720p. The image is usually letterboxed but uses most of the landscape of the screen. Great PQ from any HD cable output that either takes up the whole screen or is letterboxed as above. Really lousy SD PQ from all other DTV cable stations with HBO and SHO being the best of a poor selection. I get large 4:3 images that are blocky fuzzy and squiggly at the edges on most stations with mostly unreadable graphics. (My Toshiba 36" big tube gets much better PQ than this set with SD. I would compare the SD PQ of the Sammy to that of rabbit ear reception) I get a better picture by downscaling to 480i and panel aspect ratio on the DTV unit and using the film mode and 480i on the set.

What I wonder is, is this common for this set and other DLP sets in SD? If so I can only hope that the move to HD moves fast or that nothing worth watching is on SD for the next several years as we make the transition to universal HD. Any comments on the SD PQ would be greatly appreciated. And any recommendations on how to improve the SD PQ would also be appreciated.

I think some people may have hinted at this, but my HLR5067W appears to have a color
transition issue. It reminds me of running a computer at 16bit color depth. The first example
is a little of an extreme side by side comparison but this is what im talking about:

http://www.m87-blackhole.org/~mcarlson/color_issue.jpg

And this is what it realistically looks like:

http://www.m87-blackhole.org/~mcarlson/color_issue2.jpg

I don't seem to notice it when its a bright and colorful scene, but I do notice it a lot on faces, and darker scenes in a movie.

Is this common? Are there any settings that can help reduce this? Is my tv just not calibrated correctly or is this something I have to live with?

Thanks,
Mike C

Hi Tim:
I am the other newbie who asked for some assistance in settng up my 5067W on page 39. I, too, have been enormously disappointed in the SD PQ. <snip>
What I wonder is, is this common for this set and other DLP sets in SD? If so I can only hope that the move to HD moves fast or that nothing worth watching is on SD for the next several years as we make the transition to universal HD. Any comments on the SD PQ would be greatly appreciated. And any recommendations on how to improve the SD PQ would also be appreciated.

It sounds like a marginal DTV box or bad signal or something. SD is certainly crap by comparison to HD but not as bad as your describing. How about a pic? I've heard that the sat companies have compressed their SD signals to save on bandwidth. That makes SD even worse than it otherwise would be. Remember, DVDs are SD content too.

Jon

Althought it took significantly longer than I had anticipated, I'm pleased to report that I did receive my PB check from TVA. Good 'nuf. (Oh - am very pleased with the HLR4667W!)

I think some people may have hinted at this, but my HLR5067W appears to have a color
transition issue. It reminds me of running a computer at 16bit color depth. The first example
is a little of an extreme side by side comparison but this is what im talking about:...

I noticed that same effect a few weeks ago in a Smallville episode. The effect was on the faces on s people in front of a fireplace. It's the only time I noticed the effect, but if there's a way to fix it or minimize it I'd also like to know.

Saturation: 50
Sharpness: 30
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 30

Color Weakness: Red 1, Blue 1, Green 1

This gets rid of the "clay face"" effect on my screen.

Saturation: 50
Sharpness: 30
Contrast: 90
Brightness: 30

Color Weakness: Red 1, Blue 1, Green 1

This gets rid of the "clay face"" effect on my screen.
Which one of the picture settings were youusing with these calibrations? Warm 1, Warm 2, Dynamic or did you use the Custom? And where did you see the calibration for Saturation?

T-Minus 40 hours until Samsung HLR-6167W is delivered. TR61X2 stand is all setup and ready to go.

It is coming via a white-glove delivery service. It will be unboxed and set into place for inspection. Question, how far do you all inspect prior to signing off of delivery? Just power on with cable, or go a bit further and if so how far?

Also, once they leave, any initial things to do to maximize PQ?

I will be hooking the following up to the DLP:

Integra DTR 6.4 AVR (has component pass through to TV)
Samsung HD-950 DVD Player (HDMI or component)
Scientific Atlanta 8300HD (delivered several hours after TV) (HDMI or Component)
Xbox via MS HD pack Component

I have nothing to handle lip synch or lag. Will deal with if I get it.

Would you utilize the pass-through switching on the Integra to go component to the DLP, with all else going to AVR via component? I only have one HDMI-HDMI cable... Should I use that on the HD-950 or 8300HD to go direct to DLP with digital out going to AVR?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Ted

Any input from anyone?

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.Unless you value switching convenience highly I would route all video directly to the TV. I would route digital audio to the AV Receiver. If you want to use the TV's speakers use two wire RCA for that.

My main interest is in movies on DVD so I would use the HDMI and set the DVD player to output 720p. I don't think the "950" has outstanding component processing.

You can always test both ways and use the HDMI port for what you think is best.

I got my hl-r 5667 yesterday. It is all connected. Picture is great! Thank you for the help. I have decided not to run sound through my amplifier. We had a projection system at our last house with 120" screen and the whole works for sound. I got tired of too much sound/pollution. Going to try it quieter with this setup.
Thank you

A repair tech. told me one customer was able to fix it by turning the power off without exiting the menu. Just configure guide and turn power off. But no one I know of has been able to confirm.

I have tried turning off when it asks if I want to configure a VCR and I have turned it off after selecting no VCR. I have tried about a dozen times. They are coming out Tuesday and may replace some boards, but didn't give me much hope for a working guide over the phone.

I have also heard an OTA antenna might do the job. Has anyone tried an OTA antenna?

I heard you can hook the firewire port into a computer and record shows in HD. I have tried but need a driver for the tv. Anyone have any help in this area?

Received HLR4667 this week worked for one day then 3 lights flashing indicating problem with lamp. Samsung rep out today says a Toshiba engine is in this unit and he will need to order Samsung engine to replace it. Was I sold a gray market unit or does Sammy use Toshiba engine?


Samsung repair out today. According to rep Samsung does sometimes use Toshiba light engines (but rarely) in their units. I asked how does he know it is Toshiba engine as it has Samsung lables on it. Phillips lamp used in both. Part # on lamp ends with O, OsRAM (Sp.), only used on Toshiba not Samsung. Replaced entire optical engine/lamp assembly and working now.

The quality of your picture is dependent on a number of factors, but a good place to start is the connections to the TV. You will get the best results by using the highest quality inputs. So, in order of quality: HDMI, component, s-video, composite. Since you are using the two worse methods of connecting things to the TV you are just going to get medicore results. Get a HD cable or sat box with HDMI or component (not composite, like you are currently using from your VCR) and a DVD player (upconverting) that supports HDMI or component. Good choices for the DVD player would be an OPPO 971, Sony DVP-NS975V, or Panasonic S97.

The above is great info to have, and suggests some other questions.
(1) When purchasing HDMI or component cables, how important is it to go for the "big money" items? Monster HDMI cables at a place like Best Buy can be $150. Is there a certain brand that anyone recommends?
(2) With the 5067 TV, there is one HDMI input, so when hooking a STB and an upconverting DVD player do you have to go with one interface for each? Or, is there a simple switching box out there to allow for two HDMI units to be connected to the 5067?
(3) This may be a dumb question, but if someone hooks DirecTV HD up, is there any option for the STB other than the DirecTV H10 model? I haven't heard very good things about that one in what I've read.

Thanks, Tim

(1) When purchasing HDMI or component cables, how important is it to go for the "big money" items? Monster HDMI cables at a place like Best Buy can be $150.You can get well built HDMI or HDMI/DVI cables for around #30. BlueJeans is one internet source.

(2) With the 5067 TV, there is one HDMI input, so when hooking a STB and an upconverting DVD player do you have to go with one interface for each?You can get a 2/1 or 4/1 switch box or just connect your upscaling DVD player to the HDMI port and the STB to component. I would set the output on both of them to 720p.

Or, is there a simple switching box out there to allow for two HDMI units to be connected to the 5067?Yes if you don't mind the cost.

One word sums it up -- SWEET!

Hooked up all components:

HD-950 via HDMI and fiber to AVR (hdcp free fix)
SA 8300HD DVR via component and coax to AVR
XBOX via MS HD Pack (component to tv, fiber to avr)

SD, HD, DVD and Xbox all look stunning. No lag on the xbox and no lip synch on two movies I have watched so far.

Much more to play with and remotes to learn.

Thanks for all the information on these threads.

A repair tech. told me one customer was able to fix it by turning the power off without exiting the menu. Just configure guide and turn power off. But no one I know of has been able to confirm.

I have tried turning off when it asks if I want to configure a VCR and I have turned it off after selecting no VCR. I have tried about a dozen times. They are coming out Tuesday and may replace some boards, but didn't give me much hope for a working guide over the phone.

I have also heard an OTA antenna might do the job. Has anyone tried an OTA antenna?

Here is my experience with the TVGuide. I configured it a bunch of times when I first got my TV thinking I must have been doing something wrong because it never downloaded any information. To no avail, so I got sick of it popping up every time I turned on the TV so I turned off it's auto start feature. This was after about 2 weeks of trying to get it to work. I even tried an OTA antenna and that didn't work either.

After about a month of owning the TV I decided to check the TV guide feature and "presto"... it came up with a screen I had never seen before asking my to select my local cable. It gave me a bunch of choices and I wasn't sure which to choose so i just guessed. This was on a Monday. I guess I picked the right one because the channel numbers jived with my cable systems but no information yet. After turning off the set for about 15 hours I turned it on and noticed it started to populate listings but not until Friday and Saturdays shows, even though it was Tuesday, it seemed it wasn't even trying to download info for any shows before Friday.

Now when I go into the TV guide only about 1 out of every 15 shows is listed. The rest all show no listing information. So I have regarded the feature as useless garbage and have just gone back to using the guide available over the the set top box.

I do know you will not get any information until it asks you for your cable provider information, however I am unsure why I couldn't get it to ask me that earlier and why it just popped up one day. there are definately big problems with this feature and Samsung doesn't seem to be much help.

Just picked up 50" model from CC.

Each time I turn it on, the picture does this crazy bouncing and color bleeding. Perhaps looks like rainbows the whole screen over. Upon initial setup the screen did this for 20+ minutes. Now it only does it after initial startup for about 45 seconds or so. Anyone else seen this issue.

On a side note I have yet to notice lag. Have Xbox hooked up Component, and GameCube hooked up Component as well. Plus the game I am playing on GC is 480i. Just a side note about lag.

However, any ideas of my my screen dances for 45 seconds, then turns perfect?

Just picked up 50" model from CC.

Each time I turn it on, the picture does this crazy bouncing and color bleeding. Perhaps looks like rainbows the whole screen over. Upon initial setup the screen did this for 20+ minutes. Now it only does it after initial startup for about 45 seconds or so. Anyone else seen this issue.

On a side note I have yet to notice lag. Have Xbox hooked up Component, and GameCube hooked up Component as well. Plus the game I am playing on GC is 480i. Just a side note about lag.

However, any ideas of my my screen dances for 45 seconds, then turns perfect?

That doesn't sound right. I would definately call a tech out to look at it. At least you aren't totally dead in the water. Maybe your color wheel isn't getting up to speed right away?

That is exactly what it looks like. (Color wheel not spinning fast enough) It sure is weird looking.

If I am having no lag with the 67 would the 1080p treat me the same way? I would like the 1080p but heard a lot about lag. Is the 67 getting the same "game lag" feedback or is the conversion greater in the 1080p to produce more audio lag?

I wouldn't mind upgrading to 1080p desktop for pc.

Hey,

First time posting here, great forum.

Been lurking on this thread for a while, waiting for my 5067 to come in. Finally arrived this past Friday, and the first thing I did was connect my old Sony DVD player via component. Looked pretty good, but I wasn't completely blown away. Saturday, Comcast came by and installed the Motorola HD box. On Sunday, watched some football followed by HBO's HD presentations of Rome and A Shark Tale. Rome looked absolutely amazing, but Shark Tale was just breathtaking. The colors were bright and looked spot on, dark scenes remained incredibly detailed.

So far incredibly satisfied with the set.

One question, is it worth buying one of the upconverting DVD players for an HD set like this?

One question, is it worth buying one of the upconverting DVD players for an HD set like this?Many people think that it's very worthwhile. Check these reviews by UCSB.

Upscaling DVD Players (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5892463&&#post5892463)

The fact that your TV has a native resolution of 720p just means that you would set an upscaling DVD player to output 720p instead of 1080i.

I have a Samsung HL-R5667W. A friend came by this weekend and ran the DVE disk in it's entirety, over three hrs. On outdoor scenes things look OK but indoors like on Law and Order, the shadows are all blocked up. You can't see the lapels on dark suits or where the jacket ends and the slacks start. other dark objects in the room are also blocked. I reallize my DVD player impacts these settings and other DVE changes may affect also but my new custom settings are identical to the default "Standard" settings of

90
50
65
50 Warm 1

Anyone else ever run the DVE disk and what were your experiences?

I've got a HLR5067W and I occaisonally see darker spots on the screen in what looks almost like some liquid spilled down the front. I saw them once, and thought that some dust or something had gotten on the screen as I walked past. I used a towel and wiped the screen down and they disappeared, only to return a few weeks later. They're most visible with a white background.

After seeing this happen three or four times, and in pretty much the same spot on the screen, I paid closer attention and found that the streaks seemed to change as I wiped the screen, but from the plastic cover's movement rather than the towel itself.

That leads me to believe that the spots are from the screen inside sticking to the outer plastic cover. Has anyone else seen this, and if so, does anyone know if it something worth calling service about?

Thanks!

Ken

That leads me to believe that the spots are from the screen inside sticking to the outer plastic cover. Has anyone else seen this, and if so, does anyone know if it something worth calling service about?You're right. It was a common problem for one batch of HLP sets.

Samsung's screens are provided by sub-contactors and one of them had a problem last year. The "splotches" you are seeing haven't happened frequently with this year's HLR models.

Samsung will replace your screen.

waits, thanks for the link... I'm probably going to get the Oppo, seems like the best value.

Another thing, I bought Hitchhiker's Guide on DVD last night and threw it in. Looked pretty good except for one thing... no matter how much I changed picture settings, I kept noticing the actor's faces had more of a rust-colored tint to them instead of looking natural. Is this a fault of the TV or the DVD player? or am I just going crazy?

You're right. It was a common problem for one batch of HLP sets.

Samsung's screens are provided by sub-contactors and one of them had a problem last year. The "splotches" you are seeing haven't happened frequently with this year's HLR models.

Samsung will replace your screen.

Thanks for the info! I'll contact service to get this resolved.

Another thing, I bought Hitchhiker's Guide on DVD last night and threw it in. Looked pretty good except for one thing... no matter how much I changed picture settings, I kept noticing the actor's faces had more of a rust-colored tint to them instead of looking natural. Is this a fault of the TV or the DVD player? or am I just going crazy?First check Hitchhiker's Guide in this forum to see if the transfer has any known problems.

DVD Movie, Concerts, and Music Discussion and Reviews (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?f=44)

The next step would be to use the Digital Video Essentials DVD to set contrast, brightness, and color. We have a HLP5063 which is last years version of your set. After I used DVE I found a scene with good skin tones that I thought needed adjusting. I froze that scene on the screen and did some careful color changes.

A few months after that I had SethS do a professional calibration. Here is a report on the results.

SethS Calibrated Our HLP5063 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=548133)

Starting at this link there is contact Information for Eliab, Cheezmo, and David Abrams (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5822218&&#post5822218) in three messages.

Cheezmo is in Plano Texas so he might be close enough for you.

You can also contact SethS in this forum for recommendations.

Seth Schnaible
(831)459-9704
seth@avconsulting.us
http://www.avconsulting.us/

Good luck

Hello, long time reader, first time poster.

Got a HLR4667W on Monday. Looks FANTASTIC! Have component from my xbox, OTA HDTV, 480p from my dvd recorder, and DVI/HDMI from my Mac Mini going into this. Running 40 on all my video settings, havent adjusted service menu yet. One little problem. On 4:3 material I notice a pincushion effect on the lower righthand corner. It bulges out that corner gradually about 1/2 inch. Tiny Tiny unoticeable amount on the left, but the lower right is noticeable. In 16:9 mode, you cannot really notice the pincushion distortion. Is this a common issue on these sets and should I return/exchange it or are they all like that?

Quick question? We have a new Samsung 5667w. What are your feelings about the extended warranties? $299 for 2 years. The other question, how many hours should I expect to get out of the bulb? Would this make the warranty worth getting just for the bulb?
Thanks

Quick question? We have a new Samsung 5667w. What are your feelings about the extended warranties? $299 for 2 years. The other question, how many hours should I expect to get out of the bulb? Would this make the warranty worth getting just for the bulb?
Thanks

I skip the warranty. The mere fact that it is a big money maker for the retailers that sell the warranties should signal that they aren't needed. My philosophy has been to stick with the manufacturers warranty, and if the item fails me before i think it should I will never buy from that manufacturer again.

This is the whole reason I do not buy Sony products anymore. That and their two faced copy protection policy(but that's another story). About 10 years ago Sony was synonymous with quality. Now it is overpriced junk in my opinion.

If all consumers followed my philosophy of lifelong boycott on products manufactured that didn't last and companies that don't support them the quality of all products would go up.

As far as the bulb, it seems the majority of people are seeing bulb failure after about 2000 hours.

You can use that as a benchmark to justify the extended warranty if it covers the bulb. If you watch TV 5 hours a day every day then you may need toreplace the bulb before 2 years is up and a bulb costs about $300. Sounds like you got your TV at CC from that extended warranty price which is much higher than I have heard from other places but CC does cover the bulb.

Did you know you can get an 3 month extension on your manufacturers warranty if you register your product online?

Good luck with your new TV.

Hello, long time reader, first time poster.

Got a HLR4667W on Monday. Looks FANTASTIC! Have component from my xbox, OTA HDTV, 480p from my dvd recorder, and DVI/HDMI from my Mac Mini going into this. Running 40 on all my video settings, havent adjusted service menu yet. One little problem. On 4:3 material I notice a pincushion effect on the lower righthand corner. It bulges out that corner gradually about 1/2 inch. Tiny Tiny unoticeable amount on the left, but the lower right is noticeable. In 16:9 mode, you cannot really notice the pincushion distortion. Is this a common issue on these sets and should I return/exchange it or are they all like that?

Someone posted seeing the same exact effect in this post (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=579901) somewhere when watching Monday Night Football around the abc logo in the lower right. I have the same TV you do and have no such problem. The only issue I had with my TV was when I first got it there was a thin white line at the very top of the screen when using component input from my Comcast 6200 series STB. I had Comcast come out and upgraded that box to a 6412 and I havent seen that problem since. Otherwise, the picture is beautiful and colors are awesome.

I would have it checked out. See if you can isolate the problem to a type of input first. Either the source input or input type. If it is the source input... like my situation with my STB have it replaced. If it is an input type or happens regardless of input type or input source I would call Samsung and have them send a tech out to check it out while it is still under warranty. That is not normal and you should not have to live with it. Good luck with your problem.

Posi,
Thank you. The warranty is from CC. You are right, it is a judgement call about the bulb life, I guess. I thought I read about the bulb life being 9,000 hours, however (not sure). I did get the three month extension on the warranty, thanks.

I checked the 5067 store model and it had more pincushion than mine, also samsung's website states that 1/2" and below is considered normal so I will measure and probably keep it if it is actually the 1/4" it appears to be, no sense in exchanging for something that could have it even worse. Otherwise this tv is fantastic. I have partially corrected the settings, still working on getting a DVE or Avia disc though.

Hi,

I am thinking of buying the HLR5667W and wondering if there are any known problems.. like the three blinking lights problems, color wheel issues discussed on the 2004 models and if any one are seeing any other new problems. I would also appreciate if someone can shed some light on its equivalent Sony/Pannasonic LCD models.

Looking forward for your expert guidence,

ca_market.

One of these forums recommended a Viewing Distance Calculator to determine ones viewing distance.

http://www.myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html#anchor_13194

It seems to be assuming 1080p, and not 720p output. The answer will determine whether I get a 5667 or 6167. I was all set to go with the 6167 when an authority of very high reputation suggested a 6167, based on my viewing distance range, may be too large. He said when considering only DVD and HD cable sources, it would probably be OK. But he left room for doubt. Has anyone come across a reference source for the optimum viewing distance for 720p, relative to diagonal screensize (i.e., 1.5x diagonal)? Thank you.

In my opinion those viewing distance calculators are useful if you're trying to convince someone else what to buy. You can find a calculator that supports whatever position you're pushing.

If you want to know what will be best for you, the only way is to spend time in front of one. If in doubt, I would suggest going a little bigger since most people eventually get over the "it's too big" feeling.

Jon

After trying a Sony KDFE42A10 and a Toshiba 46HM95, my HLR5067W was delivered today.

The picture is stunning and the cableCARD works perfectly. The picture quality blows the 46HM95 out of the water and the blacks are far better than anything that the 42A10 could offer. The cooling fan is virtually silent. On the 42A10, I could hear a slight wine and on the 46HM95 the fan was VERY loud (sounded like a wind tunnel) and could be heard from 12 feet back.

The picture quality from my LG LDA-511 Upconverting DVD player over HDMI is great.

I am so happy right now with this TV. Simply amazing.

One of these forums recommended a Viewing Distance Calculator to determine ones viewing distance.

http://www.myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html#anchor_13194

It seems to be assuming 1080p, and not 720p output. The answer will determine whether I get a 5667 or 6167. I was all set to go with the 6167 when an authority of very high reputation suggested a 6167, based on my viewing distance range, may be too large. He said when considering only DVD and HD cable sources, it would probably be OK. But he left room for doubt. Has anyone come across a reference source for the optimum viewing distance for 720p, relative to diagonal screensize (i.e., 1.5x diagonal)? Thank you.

I use 5-6 feet for a 46", 6-8 feet for a 50", 8-10 feet for a 56" and 10-15 feet for a 61". The DLP manuals warn (and I agree) not to sit too much closer than these guidelines. They don't elaborate why, but I suspect the eyestrain they refer to has to do with the rapid sequencing of red, green and blue images through the color wheel, and the brain's attempt at blending or averaging them.

Does anyone know if samsung makes an Anti-glare screen for these?

Does anyone know if samsung makes an Anti-glare screen for these?All Samsung DLP sets (HLM, HLN, HLP, and HLR) have anti glare screens. Haven't you ever seen one?

Ummm, I went to Best Buy, at Lunch time.
they had a 4667w, and a 5067w, on display. Neither of them had an Antiglare screen. By Anti-glare screen, I mean a removeable piece of Glass\plastic that rest on the outside of the screen...

I have seen the glass on the 5085W and the 5087W (the Captain Kirks) but not on the 67w's

I don't get a lot of Glare, and that is with 3 Ceiling fans being in my TV room.
What I do get is alot reflections, but you have to look for those.

The 85 and 87 series has them...but the others do not.
some of the Hitachi RP LCD's have them also...

I researched this forum ad nauseum and struggled with the 1080p vs 720p decision. In the end I opted for the 720p, since my screen size of 50" is on the small side. Having had my 5067w for 6 weeks now, I am extremely happy with the set. I use it only for normal broadcast and DVD viewing.

I do not notice rainbows.
I do not hear the fan.
I do not experience lip-sync isssues.

I find the black levels, color rendition, sharpness exceed my expectations. HD content is stunning and SD more than acceptable. High def football is better than being in the owners box. AND the piece de resistance - Wife Acceptance Factor is over the top (from a highly skeptical starting position.)

hi...new to the forum....i have a couple of problems with my setup...i have the hlr5067w with a samsung hd dvd player (hd850) also harmon kardon digital avr....i'm trying to connect the hdmi cord to the tv and dvd ...when i set the audio to bitstream in dvd player setup i will not get any sound out of the tv....if i turn the sound setting to pcm then my avr will not get digital signal...tried going hdmi to tv and optical out through tv to avr but avr does not recieve any signal..??? also what are the optimal settings for the tv ..ie color my color control...etc..thanks

My friends are always accusing me of being on the bleeding edge of technology when I buy some component for my computers or electronics at home. Perhaps I am paying once again for this tendency of mine.

My 2 week old 5067W seems to have a problem. When I switch to a blue screen for an unused input (like AV2) I see quite clearly what appears to be a rolling scan line/bar rolling up the screen. On normal inputs from my HD DVR DTV STB (don't you love all the initials we use!) I see the scan line/bar very clearly on SD and considerably less on HD resolutions of 720p and 1080i. It also show up on DVD play from my Samsung VR325, also brand new.

So any suggestions or comments? Is this a set malfunction or inherent in the set? Might it be something else? Is this a service call issue?

In other words: Help! :confused: :confused:

hi...new to the forum....i have a couple of problems with my setup...i have the hlr5067w with a samsung hd dvd player (hd850) also harmon kardon digital avr....i'm trying to connect the hdmi cord to the tv and dvd ...when i set the audio to bitstream in dvd player setup i will not get any sound out of the tv....if i turn the sound setting to pcm then my avr will not get digital signal...tried going hdmi to tv and optical out through tv to avr but avr does not recieve any signal..??? also what are the optimal settings for the tv ..ie color my color control...etc..thanks

Hi Tim,
Remember, the audio connection that is part of the HDMI interface is currently only DD2.0 (L + R). The interface will handle DD5.1 eventually, but not at the present time. So you need to connect either the optical or coax output of the DVD player to the corresponding input of your avr. The TV audio input associated with the HDMI is just L and R (2.0). I don't recommend using it along with audio from your avr. There is usually some delay in the TV circuits, and you might get an annoying echo. Mute the sound output from the TV and just use the 5.1 from your avr.

As far as color or other video settings go, it's a matter of personal taste. Use the custom setting, and play around with various things. Many on this forum recommend changing the Gamma setting in the Service Menu from 2 to zero. This has the effect of minimizing macroblocking (blotches of slightly different color on what is supposed to be an area of uniform color). If you're uncomfortable with messing around in the Service Menu, choose the Movie setting. It already has a Gamma setting of zero.

Good luck and enjoy your new TV!

Carl

My friends are always accusing me of being on the bleeding edge of technology when I buy some component for my computers or electronics at home. Perhaps I am paying once again for this tendency of mine.

My 2 week old 5067W seems to have a problem. When I switch to a blue screen for an unused input (like AV2) I see quite clearly what appears to be a rolling scan line/bar rolling up the screen. On normal inputs from my HD DVR DTV STB (don't you love all the initials we use!) I see the scan line/bar very clearly on SD and considerably less on HD resolutions of 720p and 1080i. It also show up on DVD play from my Samsung VR325, also brand new.

So any suggestions or comments? Is this a set malfunction or inherent in the set? Might it be something else? Is this a service call issue?

In other words: Help! :confused: :confused:
Do you have any power conditioning on your system?

Do you have any power conditioning on your system?
Yes, I have a pretty good 6 plug surge protector and power conditioner.

Yes, I have a pretty good 6 plug surge protector and power conditioner.
It just sounded like you were possibly getting a little interference from your refrig, air conditioner or similar appliance.

thanks carlo.... when i connect the hdmi cord to the tv and set the dvd to bitstream , there is not any sound played on the tv..the tv displays hdmi audio not supported..what is the factory default for the custom color control???/ i changed some of the settings and cannot get it back to default....the color on the faces of caucasian seem to red and the faces on african americans have a green tint to them..how do i get into the service menu to change the gamma setting?

Greetings Everyone, I am finally ready to buy the HLR5667 set with the TR46x3 stand and I have a question regarding the stands dimensions.
Does the stand match the profile of the TV looking at it from the top? IOW, does the stand follow the receding front and rear of the TV?
I am sorry for my poor description, but this set will be fitting inside of a recess that is about 50inches wide and I would like for only the 2inches of the screen to stick out.

Thanks,
new poster and soon to be owner,
Allen

I am considering the Oppo OPDV971H DV DV Player for my Samsung HL-R5667W HDTV. The TV has a slot for HDMI/DVI connections. What kind of cable do I need - an HDMI female to TV male, or a DVI female to TV?

I am considering the Oppo OPDV971H DV DV Player for my Samsung HL-R5667W HDTV. The TV has a slot for HDMI/DVI connections. What kind of cable do I need - an HDMI female to TV male, or a DVI female to TV?The OPPO comes with a choice of one cable. You can get a HDMI to HDMI cable or a HDMI to DVI cable. Your TV has a HDMI female connector.

If the OPPO has a DVI output then you need the HDMI to DVI cable. If the OPPO has a HDMI output then the HDMI to HDMI cable is what you need.

In any case the cable should be male/male.

Alfurst,
Have you looked at the technical drawings?
http://product.samsung.com/pdf/hlr5667_dimensions.pdf

I'm having a problem that is just driving me nuts!

My ATI x700 (Sapphire) video card is connected to a Samsung HL-R4667W DLP HDTV via a DVI to HDMI cable. Normally, everything looks fine and the picture is excellent. The problem occurs sometime after I've turned off the TV and there is no user activity on the computer. After a while, could be an hour, perhaps more (hard to tell), the video card turns off and no output is sent to the TV. The computer is still operational at this time. Even thou I can't see the screen I can still access it remotely and via my Media Center Extender so I know that the PC did not lock-up. The only way to recover is to reboot the machine. When I do this I see the POST screen and everything is back to normal.

Has anyone else ever had this problem?
Any ideas on how to fix it?

Note:
The Event Viewer does not show any error messages.

Another note:
The TV displays "Weak Signal or No Signal" when the picture is lost. When I reboot it displays "Not Connected" briefly before the signal comes back. What this means is that the TV still sees the video card but the video card is not sending a signal.

Thanks in advance!



Driver
------
ATI Catalyst 5.8

System
------
Video: Sapphire Hybrid X700 256MB PCIE
Motherboard: Giga-byte GA-8I915G Pro (Rev 1)
Processor: Intel Pentium 4 3.0GHZ
Memory: 1GB (512x2, Banks 0&2)
Audio: C-Media 9880 (onboard)
Network: Marvell Yukon 8001 Gigabit (onboard)
Power Supply: 450W
TV: nVidia eVga SD Tuner PCI
MPEG-2 Decoder: nVidia
OS: Microsoft Windows Media Center 2005
Drivers: All the latest version

I looked at the drawing, and I called Samsung, but I was unable to gat an answer. If anyone can look at their stand I would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Allen

I've had an HLR-5067 for a couple months now and totally love it. However in the past week I've noticed what appears to be splashes of light on the screen, only visible when the display is on but dark. There's one long line about 6", and a couple coins sized dots in various places. It looks as if something inside the case is catching light and reflecting it up to the screen. They're faint, and only visible on a dark screen...but annoying now that I see them. I'm pretty sure they're a recent development.

Has anyone seen this? Is there anything I can do about it, or should I just call Samsung?

Is it possible for something behind the tv to catch the light that leaks out the heat vents and reflect it back inside? I've tried moving wires and stuff but no luck causing the spots to move or change.

thanks carlo.... when i connect the hdmi cord to the tv and set the dvd to bitstream , there is not any sound played on the tv..the tv displays hdmi audio not supported..what is the factory default for the custom color control???/ i changed some of the settings and cannot get it back to default....the color on the faces of caucasian seem to red and the faces on african americans have a green tint to them..how do i get into the service menu to change the gamma setting?

Tim,
Do not connect audio from the DVD player to the TV. It cannot accept DD5.1 at this time. Set the DVD player to whatever gives you 5.1 out of your avr, and use that audio exclusively.
If you notice lip-sync issues (audio ahead of the video), most of the newer avrs have an audio delay capability. It may be buried deep in one of the audio setup menus.
Regarding getting into the Service Menu to change the Gamma, here is someone's post on that subject:

"The 67 service code is a follwing:

1. Turn the TV OFF
2. On the remote, press "MUTE" button
3. On the remote, click "182" on the numbers pad
4. On the remote (make sure you're in TV mode), press the "POWER" button

The TV will turn ON in the service mode.

MAKE SURE YOU CHANGE NOTHING YOU'RE NOT ABSOLUTELY 100% SURE OF!!!!!!!!

At the end, turn the TV OFF. When you turn it ON again, it'll be back in "normal" mode".

Or if you wish, choose "Movie" from the Video Menu on the TV, and adjust the brightness, contrast and color settings to suit your taste.

Good luck,
Carl

Greetings Everyone, I am finally ready to buy the HLR5667 set with the TR46x3 stand and I have a question regarding the stands dimensions.
Does the stand match the profile of the TV looking at it from the top? IOW, does the stand follow the receding front and rear of the TV?
I am sorry for my poor description, but this set will be fitting inside of a recess that is about 50inches wide and I would like for only the 2inches of the screen to stick out.

Thanks,
new poster and soon to be owner,
Allen

To answer your question, the front part of the stand exactly matches the TV and slopes inward to the back, somewhat matching the TV's base dimensions. BUT be careful with the choice of a TR46X3 stand! In spite of the fact that it carries the Samsung name and is sold as a custom stand for the HL-R4667, 5067 and 5667, it does NOT support the front-middle of the TV! I've seen several 5667s in stores on this stand. They all have a visible bow in the bottom-front silver panel of the TV (which has the speakers, indicator lamps and the IR sensor).

I called Samsung to complain, and they referred me to Ameriwood Industries, the stand manufacturer. I talked to a very nice CS lady, and she was most willing to help solve the problem. She and I have had several phone converstations, and I've mailed her a couple of sketches that show that my TV's front foot pads are unsupported by their stand. She called again to acknowledge they'd received my drawings, and were working on a solution. It may be awhile in coming, as it appears they'll have to re-design the entire top of the stand. There was obviously a big disconnect between their designers and Samsung.

My 4667 does not have as much unsupported area as your intended 5667. In the meantime, I've put a 3/4" piece of plywood under the TV and on top of the stand to pick up the TV's front foot pads. If and when I hear from Ameriwood on their solution, I'll post it here.

Carl

I am looking for a center speaker stand to fit on top of my 5667W to hold a front - center speaker. CC has a nice one with adj legs but it still slopes backward on the 5667W. Has anyone found a speaker stand that can be mounted on top of the TV to hold the center speaker?

Hey guys, I posted this a while ago but still haven't recieved much info on it. I have a PS2 hooked up to my 5667W via the component cables (Sony). No matter what game, 480i/480p or 1080i on GT4 I am noticing the picture does not fill out the screen. The 4x3, 16x9 and other settings do not affect the way the game fills the screen, just the aspect ratio w/in the picture. I have about an inch of black on the left and right sides and a half inch to inch on the top and bottom. No matter what I do I can not change this.

Is anyone else experiencing these problems?
Any sort of a rememdy?
Time to contact BB for service...?

~Lance

ronjon:

I've found most center channels are too heavy for those MDF stands. Also, the legs have a tough time reaching the back of the TV due to the sharp angle of the rear of the case. I would recommend building a shelf on the wall behind the TV is possible as you can customize it to your speaker. Also, do not try to suspend the speaker above the TV. I knew a guy that did that and his 20 lb. speaker fell on his set shattering the case. No warranty covers that. Good news was the Klipsch C3 was fine.

~Lance

It's only a 2 lb Onkyo speaker. Thought about some heavy Velcro tape but may reconsider now. Thanks.

I am looking for a center speaker stand to fit on top of my 5667W to hold a front - center speaker. CC has a nice one with adj legs but it still slopes backward on the 5667W. Has anyone found a speaker stand that can be mounted on top of the TV to hold the center speaker?

Earlier in this thread someone mentioned they had fabricated a stand or shelf rather that had notches that fit into the large square holes on the top rear of the set. I was thinking about doing this as well. Might be worth trying since it doesn't appear anyone makes one that will work for this application at this time.

I checked the 5667W and I can't see a way to do this. If that person that made one is listening, please respond. Thanks.

So,

Have the JVC HD567BP6, but regular viewing channels outside of HD are less than par in the first few days of ownership. DVD input also seems to be lacking, as well as XBOX. For any of you that own Samsung HLR5667W that were comparing these two TV's, any advice? Have JVC hooked up with components, but just seems sub par compared to the picture I saw in BB for the JVC.

How is the Samsung HLR5667W? Worth taking the JVC back, or am I gonna get the same picture basically, great HD, but fair regular channels and DVD?

Thanks

So,

Have the JVC HD567BP6, but regular viewing channels outside of HD are less than par in the first few days of ownership. DVD input also seems to be lacking, as well as XBOX. For any of you that own Samsung HLR5667W that were comparing these two TV's, any advice? Have JVC hooked up with components, but just seems sub par compared to the picture I saw in BB for the JVC.

How is the Samsung HLR5667W? Worth taking the JVC back, or am I gonna get the same picture basically, great HD, but fair regular channels and DVD?

Thanks

Sounds pretty common. Digital sets all show poorly when displaying SD content. I am a fan of Samsung but i cannot put your JVC down and recommend you return it without experience with your JVC set. I will say that the Samsung Faroudja scaler is very good and DVD's on the Samsung set also look great. If I had to analyze it from a technical standpoint it sounds as if the component inputs or the analog to digital converter on the JVC is poor. Are you able to hook your DVD player up without using component inputs (HDMI or DVI?) that would isolate if your problem was from the A/D converter or not.

Tim,
Do not connect audio from the DVD player to the TV. It cannot accept DD5.1 at this time. Set the DVD player to whatever gives you 5.1 out of your avr, and use that audio exclusively.
If you notice lip-sync issues (audio ahead of the video), most of the newer avrs have an audio delay capability. It may be buried deep in one of the audio setup menus.
Regarding getting into the Service Menu to change the Gamma, here is someone's post on that subject:

"The 67 service code is a follwing:

1. Turn the TV OFF
2. On the remote, press "MUTE" button
3. On the remote, click "182" on the numbers pad
4. On the remote (make sure you're in TV mode), press the "POWER" button

The TV will turn ON in the service mode.

MAKE SURE YOU CHANGE NOTHING YOU'RE NOT ABSOLUTELY 100% SURE OF!!!!!!!!

At the end, turn the TV OFF. When you turn it ON again, it'll be back in "normal" mode".

Or if you wish, choose "Movie" from the Video Menu on the TV, and adjust the brightness, contrast and color settings to suit your taste.

Good luck,
Carl

Carl... are you sure it was such a good idea to give Tim entry to the service menu?
Egads... I can see him disabling his set for good.

Hey guys, I posted this a while ago but still haven't recieved much info on it. I have a PS2 hooked up to my 5667W via the component cables (Sony). No matter what game, 480i/480p or 1080i on GT4 I am noticing the picture does not fill out the screen. The 4x3, 16x9 and other settings do not affect the way the game fills the screen, just the aspect ratio w/in the picture. I have about an inch of black on the left and right sides and a half inch to inch on the top and bottom. No matter what I do I can not change this.

Is anyone else experiencing these problems?
Any sort of a rememdy?
Time to contact BB for service...?

~Lance

Lance,

I have a similar setup except a 5067 and do not have that problem. It sounds like you have not tried the aspect ratio options on the Samsung. Or maybe you did but didn't set the aspect ratio to widescreen on the PS2. Using "zoom 1" or "zoom 2" on the Samsung would certainly cause the black bars to go away or at least change dramatically. Do the zoom options work when watching regular TV programming?

Jon

RonJon2 and others looking for a center channel stand:

I have an HLR-6167w and a TR61X2 stand. No room for center channel. Reviewed options and decided to mount above TV. I found these mounts and orderd from Vanns:

http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/item/features/750059078

The come in pairs and I used both for mounting my Paradigm CC350, which is approximately 25lbs. Used Tapcon's to go into my concrete wall to mount and they are rock solid and look pretty nice also.

Hope that helps.

By the way, the HLR-6167w rocks!

Ted

Thanks, but mine is in a Cherry wall unit with a large drop down back that moves with the shelving. I can't mount anything to it.

Maybe I'm not looking in the right place, but what is the DVI Audio input for on a 5067? When I think of DVI, I think of video only, with no audio signal being carried.
I'm assuming that this is not a port that a DVI cable can be used with to connect a DVD, etc.
I saw on another forum a person ask the same question but there was never a response.
Thanks, Tim

Maybe I'm not looking in the right place, but what is the DVI Audio input for on a 5067? When I think of DVI, I think of video only, with no audio signal being carried.
I'm assuming that this is not a port that a DVI cable can be used with to connect a DVD, etc.
I saw on another forum a person ask the same question but there was never a response.
Thanks, Tim

DVI audio is available to input audio into the TV if you are using a external component with DVI output. For example, if you are using the OPPO DVD player. It has DVI output. You would use a DVI to HDMI cable to connect the video signal to the TV's HDMI input. If you also wanted to route audio to the TV, you would plug two RCA jacks into OPPO and Samsung and send two channel audio to the TV on the DVI audio input jacks.

Previously, I've identified a problem with using this stand with the 46", 50" and 56" HL-Rs. Even though the stand carries a Samsung part number and is recommended for their TVs, it does NOT support the front middle part of the TV. Many have reported that, over time, the bottom part of the TV begins to bow. This is especially true with the 56-inch model, as it has the largest unsupported area.

I've been working with Ameriwood Industries (www.ameriwood.com) to come up with a solution. They recognized the problem immediately, and were eager to help. Today, I received a couple of spacer/inserts to place in the gap between the silvery bottom of the TV and the screen area. They fit snugly, and will prevent the gap from getting smaller (which happens when bowing occurs). This may reduce or prevent bowing of the bottom of the TV. Time will tell if this is an acceptable solution. Perhaps it is only an interim measure while they redesign the top part of their stand.

The spacer/inserts should be free. Stand owners can check with Ameriwood Customer Service at the above web address to obtain them.

for the information regarding the DVI Audio input. Good information as usual.

As I continue to learn more about the 5067 set I have, it's becoming apparent to me what most all of you probably know.............that the original source DVD has LOTS to do with the quality of the picture.

I still just have the DVD player (a Panasonic RV30 from a few years ago!) connected to the TV with S-Video. So I'm definitely not upscaling the signal. I like live concert DVD's, and these are all over the place in terms of quality on my set viewed in 4:3 format
Widespread Panic - Live At The Brickyard.........Awful!!!
Stevie Ray Vaughan at Montreaux..........So So
Blue Oyster Cult (A Long Days Night)............Very nice!

Hollywood movies or TV can be variable too
Glengarry Glen Ross..............VG
Lord Of The Rings............Way Good!
Arrested Development - Season One..........Excellent!

When it comes to upscaling players, connected via HDMI to the 5067, UCSB/Bill has mentioned that "Good choices for the DVD player would be an OPPO 971, Sony DVP-NS975V, or Panasonic S97". How do the Samsung players (850 or 950) match with the HL-R5067W? I've seen complaints about the Samsung players' compatability with some other sets.
Regards, Tim

RonJon2 and others looking for a center channel stand:

I have an HLR-6167w and a TR61X2 stand. No room for center channel. Reviewed options and decided to mount above TV. I found these mounts and orderd from Vanns:

http://www.vanns.com/shop/servlet/item/features/750059078

The come in pairs and I used both for mounting my Paradigm CC350, which is approximately 25lbs. Used Tapcon's to go into my concrete wall to mount and they are rock solid and look pretty nice also.

Hope that helps.

By the way, the HLR-6167w rocks!

Ted

For those who have small center channel speakers or plan to purchase them, there is no need to go with a big heavy center speaker. Something that weighs 5-7 lbs. such as the Cambridge Sound Works MC150 is just the ticket. With any 5.1, 6.1 or 7.1 HT system, the thundering bass comes from the subwoofer and/or the L/R speakers. The clarity and mid/high range response of the MC150 is amazing. All for less than 100 bucks. Simply attach it to the top center of your HLR with Velcro.

Ronjon2: For awhile, I used a similar (if not the same stand) from CC. The legs could only extend so far but I found that a regular sized door jam works PERFECTLY to station the legs. Since you only have a 2lb center, I would recommend that you try this workaround. However, if you have anything heavier than 5lbs, I would recommend you return that stand since it would flex the cheap plastic on the tv (both the top of the tv and the back will bow). I have a 15-20lb center and for a good month or two, I used the tv stand from CC and noticed that the top and back of my 5067w showed some signs of bending. Ultimately, I had to fabricate a homemade tv stand for the heavy sucker. Now, I can sleep better at night knowing that my tv does not have any pressure from my center speaker!

-Dookie

It's only a 2 lb Onkyo speaker. Thought about some heavy Velcro tape but may reconsider now. Thanks.

Could one use the internal speakers as the center channel?
I expect it wouldn't be as good as a Onkyo speaker, but could it work and would it be good enough?

thanks

I just got a Samsung 50" HLR5067 dlp and have it hooked up via HDMI from my 8300HD. The sammy only gets a signal when being sent 720p, 1080i, or 480p widescreen....i have to use my svideo input for all the sd channels. Is this correct? i would rather not have to switch from hdmi to svideo all the time...the sammy does a much better job upconverting the 480i to 720p then the 8300HD. Any suggestions?

Donald :)

hello to all i purchase a 50 hl r series 5067 and have been havng a grainy pic on many of my hd channel, live in san diego and have time warner,... have the cable company even replaced the convertor with a pioneer voyager... and even had the run check and it a homerun from the source, i even had it monitore and my signal is as great as u can expect..... the espn channel is outstanding.... ! foc ,abc, cbc...are very good, but you can see that it looks , it almost has to just be adjustedm almost like "fine tuned" to a -1 to -2.... but with a convertor that optoon is not available with the menu...... has anyone had this problem? would a cable card allow me to have more freedom? or should i just return it,thank

Hi all,

I have been a Plasma user for 2 years now. I am now seriously looking at the 50" model to replace my current Plasma and hope users here can advice me on these matters.

1. Does this model support both 50hz and 60hz? I watch both PAL and NTSC. Also does it support 72hz or 75hz input at 720P?

2. Anyone running this a scaler? Is there any improvement esp in sharpness?

3. Comparing it to a Plasma of the same size, it seems that there just is a slight lack of sharpness. I believe this is due to the anti glare treatment. It eliminates glare almost totally but it does seem to reduce sharpness somewhat. Is this correct?

4. How is the black level? Is the green issue solved? I remember there was a lot of talk on the green tint or green noise in dark areas.

5. Can all the processing such as DNIE, Motion optimizer etc be switched off? I intend to use my Lumagen Scaler to scale my DVD and SDTV to 720p.

Thanks all!

Oliver

I just got a Samsung 50" HLR5067 dlp and have it hooked up via HDMI from my 8300HD. The sammy only gets a signal when being sent 720p, 1080i, or 480p widescreen....i have to use my svideo input for all the sd channels. Is this correct? i would rather not have to switch from hdmi to svideo all the time...the sammy does a much better job upconverting the 480i to 720p then the 8300HD. Any suggestions?

Donald :)

I'm assuming the 8300HD is a cable box. It may have variable format options like the satellite boxes. Most have a native setting, where whatever is being received goes to the TV as-is. Other settings will output 720p or 1080i regardless of whether the input is one or the other. At the same time, any SD input will come out 480i.
I find it hard to believe the 8300HD cannot be set to do this.

I use a tv stand mounted on the wall for mt 25lbs center channel. This works out awesome b/c the stand has a built in 7 degree tilt, and i can position it exactly flush with the front of the TV. I use this stand B-Tech BT525 (http://www.pinpoint-mktg.com/bt525.htm) for 50 bucks it isnt bad. They also have cheaper ones, but i needed the ability to bend it in the middle due to wall config

After a while, could be an hour, perhaps more (hard to tell), the video card turns off and no output is sent to the TV. The computer is still operational at this time.

SdeGonge,

You might want to check your power scheme and make sure it isnt cutting the video off. Right click on the desktop, go to properties, screensaver. Click power at the bottom and make sure turn off monitor is set to never. If it is set to something like 1 hour that could explain the issue

IEEE to DVR with no cableTV or sat.?
Tried searching but I can't find anything on this. Does anyone know of a standalone DVR Hardrive recorder that receives it's input as IEEE1394 and outputs to HDMI that is compatible with the Samsung HRR5067W? I don't want cable or satellite. OTA works perfect here. If it had it's own ATSC tuner(s), that would be great. I don't need backup tapes, I don't want to keep anything...I just want to time shift.

Thanks to this forum, I love my new HLR6167W. The picture is simply great even with my regular DVD player using component outputs. I want to further improve the picture and sound quality.

I'm planning to buy a upconverting DVD player with HDMI out and a new home theatre in a box. As I was researching I came across this new HTiB from samsung, HT-HDP40. This comes with a DVD player with HDMI out upconversion with DCDi by Faroudja. I was wondering if anyone already bought this or have any information on this. I'm hoping samsung has done a good job with this player.

Also, does HLR6167W already have an upconversion chip or use DCDi, I know one of the previous DLP models used DCDi by Faroudja. If so, any player with HDMI out should be good enough?

Thanks for any advice.

I read somewhere (although I cannot find anything in the HL-R4667W user manual) that Samsung recommends a sequence for starting a xx67 TV when connected to a PC. I want to use my TV as a monitor almost exclusively by using a HTPC for TV, DVD, and surfing, etc. So, this concerned me when I first read it...

Does anyone know what actions might be damaging to these DLPs when connected to a PC?

thanks

CARL033,

Last year when I purchased my recent audio portion of my system, I listened to many different brands/sizes of center channel speakers. The last two smaller I recall were Boston Acoustics, Polk (crap nowdays) and Bose (cough).. None of them could hold a candle to the Paradigm CC-370 (mistake original post).

Why larger for me? This is both an audio system and a home theater system. Music drove me back to towers (Paradigm Monitor 7's). For a nice 5 channel stereo, I decided to go a bit larger with my rears as well with Monitor 3's.

So, for a properly matched system, the CC-370 was the ticket for me. PS-1200 fills the room with low end.

Dedicated home theater - Maybe smaller is better. Dual function, at least in my eyes, the matched larger center was the right choice.

Now with my HL-R6167W I can see the video and with my Paradigm surround, feel it with intensity... At least with what can be had with my budget.

The hell with those $8 movie tickets.

Just my .02

Ted

Samsung HL-R6167W DLP
Integra Home Theater DTR-6.5 AVR
Samsung DVD-HD950
Paradigm Monitor 7's, 3's, CC-370, PS-1200

Hi,

My 3.5 months old HLR4667's stopped working suddenly today evening. When i switch on the tv
I can hear the soun but cannot see the picture. I see the knob light in the bopttom middle portion has a ligh on the" lamp" letters and the light blinks for a few times
and then stops.. I changed the source to DVD, and others and I can hear only
the sound from the source and no picture can be seen.

Did the inside lamp on my 3.5 mths (which i used occationally may be only 3
hrs each day on the average) old died suddenly? Has anyone seen this
problem? Time to call the Best buy support I think.

Any tips suggestions are welcome.

Thanks

Hi,

My 3.5 months old HLR4667's stopped working suddenly today evening. When i switch on the tv
I can hear the soun but cannot see the picture. I see the knob light in the bopttom middle portion has a ligh on the" lamp" letters and the light blinks for a few times
and then stops.. I changed the source to DVD, and others and I can hear only
the sound from the source and no picture can be seen.

Did the inside lamp on my 3.5 mths (which i used occationally may be only 3
hrs each day on the average) old died suddenly? Has anyone seen this
problem? Time to call the Best buy support I think.

Any tips suggestions are welcome.

Thanks

Best to call Samsung at 1-800-Samsung ... they will help you get if fixed.

How do the service plans work at places like tweeter? I've had an HLP for a little over a year, and the smudging I've heard about has started to happen. I have a 5 year service plan from tweeter(used to be NOW!). Do they just replace when something like that happens? I assume they would replace with the HLR...am I correct?

Has anybody figured out a "fix" for the dark colors on low lighting shows? I keep getting blotches or lare pixels when a program is showing a scene in low lighting and the dark background looks distorted

Any info would be appreciated...

Best to call Samsung at 1-800-Samsung ... they will help you get if fixed.


Called samsung and they asked me to give the serial no and someone will be
scheduled to come and fix it.

Mine is the first set of the batch of samsung HLR4667's that was released
to the market on first week of june 05, does any one else experience
the same problem or any other problems with HLR4667's?

Our Samsung hlr 5667 in place. Great picture, great sound. System: Dish 811,Yamaha DSP-A1, Sony DVP-S7000,Klipsch KSP 400,KSP-C6

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v234/curb1/000_0190.jpg

IEEE to DVR with no cableTV or sat.?
Tried searching but I can't find anything on this. Does anyone know of a standalone DVR Hardrive recorder that receives it's input as IEEE1394 and outputs to HDMI that is compatible with the Samsung HRR5067W? I don't want cable or satellite. OTA works perfect here. If it had it's own ATSC tuner(s), that would be great. I don't need backup tapes, I don't want to keep anything...I just want to time shift.


I don't know about DVR's but D-VHS can handle what you are asking.

JVC HM-DH5U (HDMI)

JVC HM-DT100U (HDMI)(also has ATSC tuner)

How do the service plans work at places like tweeter? I've had an HLP for a little over a year, and the smudging I've heard about has started to happen. I have a 5 year service plan from tweeter(used to be NOW!). Do they just replace when something like that happens? I assume they would replace with the HLR...am I correct?

From what I heard the smudging is caused by the plastic bowing or sagging and being pushed up against the screen. They will probably have Samsung repair out to replace the plastic overlay or seperate it from the glass. I highly doubt you will get a new TV, especially one that is much better as far as inputs and options.

Has anybody figured out a "fix" for the dark colors on low lighting shows? I keep getting blotches or lare pixels when a program is showing a scene in low lighting and the dark background looks distorted

Any info would be appreciated...

From what I read on this forum, the blotches are a function of Samsung's upconverting process to 720p from 480i. The Gamma setting from the factory is 2 on all picture modes except "Movie". Many have reported that setting the Gamma to zero greatly reduces the blotching.
Getting into the service menu to change the Gamma setting may not be advisable to many. So to see what the effect is, go to Movie mode. The Gamma setting there is zero. Compare blotchy scenes by going back-and-forth to one of the other modes. If you are pleased with the Movie setting but want to make contrast, brightness or color changes, you can do so without affecting the Gamma setting.
Good luck.

*sigh*
My 5067 showed up today, and I was like a little puppy with a toy. I think the picture is phenomenal, after some tweaking, even more so. Long story short, my wife sees the rainbow effect and it's pretty dang severe. So it's not looking good for the future of this set in my living room, anyone have any psychological tricks to trick her into believing this isn't really there? Thinking about selling on the cheap or sending it back...i don't know what else to do. :(

*sigh*
My 5067 showed up today, and I was like a little puppy with a toy. I think the picture is phenomenal, after some tweaking, even more so. Long story short, my wife sees the rainbow effect and it's pretty dang severe. So it's not looking good for the future of this set in my living room, anyone have any psychological tricks to trick her into believing this isn't really there? Thinking about selling on the cheap or sending it back...i don't know what else to do. :(
What material? There are a few movies/shows that bring out rainbows. Also, give it a week or two ... many see a huge reduction in rainbows in that period.

I saw craploads of rainbows when I first got my HLR-5067. But a few months later I see hardly any at all. Not sure if I adjusted how I watch, or the tv itself gets better once it's run awhile. I suspect it's the former, as I can still see them if I twitch my eyes intentionally. But I guess I've learned to not do that while watching.

Thanks for sharing some rainbow experiences, i'm gonna give it a bit and see if she kind of changes the way she looks at things. I can see them but it's only if i go out of my way to dart my eyes back and forth. She said the effect isn't AS bad when she takes off her glasses so maybe i need to just get her contacts ;) .
She said the effect isn't as bad with HD content, it's just pretty severe with 480i content.
Gonna be a wild ride regardless tho.

Thanks

I saw a lot when I first got my hl-r6167w, but I also hardly see them now. There are some things I've never seen them in, like Ice Age, but stuff with dark scenes like The Incredibles and Mask of Zorro I still notice them occasionally. I would keep the set, as it the effect really gets minimized over time, though it probably will never be eliminated completely.

Do all the samsungs lag with a xbox in 480p? I was looking at these foremost before the sonys, but everything i have read points to all the samsungs lag bad on 480p and the work around fix plays it in 480i. I am getting a xbox 360 when they come out but i still need to be able to play my old xbox.

Thanks

Thanks for sharing some rainbow experiences, i'm gonna give it a bit and see if she kind of changes the way she looks at things. I can see them but it's only if i go out of my way to dart my eyes back and forth. She said the effect isn't AS bad when she takes off her glasses so maybe i need to just get her contacts ;) .
She said the effect isn't as bad with HD content, it's just pretty severe with 480i content.
Gonna be a wild ride regardless tho.

Thanks

Also ... it is not a good idea to watch the set in a dark room this will magnify the effect.

^really? I was unaware that rainbows are easier to see in dark rooms. This is interesting and somewhat disappointing because I love to watch movies in the dark and most people do too.

^really? I was unaware that rainbows are easier to see in dark rooms. This is interesting and somewhat disappointing because I love to watch movies in the dark and most people do too.

Most people set their sets up so they can watch them during the day. If they stick with those settings at night and turn all of the lights off, it can get really intense and fatiguing on a DLP set. The high contrast, high impact situation developed will enhance your ability to see rainbows.

But, if you want to watch in the dark, just have a picture mode setup for those conditions and you can do it. For example, the Samsung's have a picture mode call MOVIE that is darker and more appropriate for dark viewing. When setting your system up, use DVE or AVIA to create a picture mode for each of your favorite viewing situations.

I've found that I can only see rainbows on my 4667 from some sources but not all, and only when I move my eyes quickly, especially side to side. It's natural for your eyes to dart around at first when checking out a new tv, and the colors etc. You may want to have your wife try watching the overall picture without a lot of eye movement, and see if that helps.

Did anyone see INFO boxes shows all the time while you watch one of over-the-air broadcast? I'm talking about the box you see when you press INFO button on your remote. It displays Channel number/name/rating/language in one box in upper left corner and also displays another box showing "DOLBY DIGITAL" in the lower center.

The boxes disappear temporarily if I press EXIT button, but immediately re-appears after half second or so when I watch ABC (actual station is KOMO-DT, ATSC digital channel 4-1 in my area).

I am thingking this has something to do with TV-rating info carried from signal since TV rating information keeps blinking on this channel only. For example, "TV-14(v)" blinks while I watch "Lost". Now I truly know "Lost" is for 14 year old or later. :(

I am almost out of patience to figure out how I can disable those boxes and even thinking to return the TV set although I really like this TV set for all other use. I know this could be a problem in the local station, but I don't know either if this is a problem of Samsung.

Any experience like this?

Do all the samsungs lag with a xbox in 480p? I was looking at these foremost before the sonys, but everything i have read points to all the samsungs lag bad on 480p and the work around fix plays it in 480i. I am getting a xbox 360 when they come out but i still need to be able to play my old xbox.

Thanks

Anyone please?

Well, finally settled with the Samsung '56 over the JVC. I actually returned the JVC, because I thought it was sub par. And I must say that the two aren't even close. Especially after checking out HD and DVD using component connections.

However, has anyone had any problems with any component inputs connections or other connections? It seems that my component 2 connection has a short or not connected properly. Found out when hooking up DVD, then tried HD Cable box, and nothing. Says pretty much no or weak signal. I'm sure BB will fix it, but how can I test out all the rest since I don't have some of those connections for any of my audio/video equipment? Any advice would be great!

Thanks - Brad

I was watching the series "Renunion" tonight and noticed a lot of noise in the background. I watched another show, same channel, and only saw a little. Then watched CBS local news and saw a lot or noise in all solid color backgrounds. Looks like fine grain sand. This is new for me with the 5667W. Is this a common problem or anyone have any ideas? The set is about 1 month old. Thanks.

Do all the samsungs lag with a xbox in 480p? I was looking at these foremost before the sonys, but everything i have read points to all the samsungs lag bad on 480p and the work around fix plays it in 480i. I am getting a xbox 360 when they come out but i still need to be able to play my old xbox.

Thanks

I haven't experienced lag on 480p games, but I don't play sports games. For the games I play, I haven't seen any difference in terms of having any detrimental effects. I suck at most games anyway, but I've played the only game I'm halfway decent at, Crimson Skies, and didn't notice any difference. You should try them out for yourself at a store if possible with the games you think you might have a problem with.

I have noticed it in 480i games, though. I installed the n64 to my 6167w to see if I noticed lag, and it was hard to do Mario's triple jump unless I hit the button before Mario hit the ground the second time.

Has anyone here experienced problems attempting to enable the optical out from the Samsung? When I go into the TV's menu and select sound the Digital Output option is grayed out and I can't figure out how to enable it. Anyone know how to resolve this issue?


Thanks

New Samsung 56 inch is running great outside of a short in one of the component inputs. Any suggestions on the best set of cables/company to use with this TV? Noticed Monster stuff seems to fit enitrely too tight to where the plastic on the back of the TV bends when trying to connect the cable? Acoustic research seems to get so/so ratings. Any suggestions?

*sigh*
My 5067 showed up today, and I was like a little puppy with a toy. I think the picture is phenomenal, after some tweaking, even more so. Long story short, my wife sees the rainbow effect and it's pretty dang severe. So it's not looking good for the future of this set in my living room, anyone have any psychological tricks to trick her into believing this isn't really there? Thinking about selling on the cheap or sending it back...i don't know what else to do. :(


I too saw rainbows when I first got my HLR5067, but after a while no longer see them. My theory is that when upgrading to a significantly larger set (I went from a 32" to a 50") you have a tendency to wacth only a portion of the larger screen and your eyes dart from section to section to see the entire picture. It is due to this eye movement that the rainbows become apparent. However, after a period of time, usually a couple weeks, your eyes get used to relaxing and watching the enitre picture. No more darting around, and thus no more rainbows. Good Luck. I can't imagine having to get rid of this set. Absolutely freaking awesome. :)

*sigh*
My 5067 showed up today, and I was like a little puppy with a toy. I think the picture is phenomenal, after some tweaking, even more so. Long story short, my wife sees the rainbow effect and it's pretty dang severe. So it's not looking good for the future of this set in my living room, anyone have any psychological tricks to trick her into believing this isn't really there? Thinking about selling on the cheap or sending it back...i don't know what else to do. :(

Hang in there with your 5067! The rainbows will either go away or cease to be annoying. Switch to Movie mode. It's designed for low-light conditions, which lessen the rainbow effect. It also has an added bonus of reducing macroblocking, due to its Gamma setting of zero.
If you're upgrading from a much smaller TV, it is natural for your eyes to dart around to various parts of the screen. This is when rainbows show up. In time, you won't be doing as much of this. Keep the faith!

Lance,

I have a similar setup except a 5067 and do not have that problem. It sounds like you have not tried the aspect ratio options on the Samsung. Or maybe you did but didn't set the aspect ratio to widescreen on the PS2. Using "zoom 1" or "zoom 2" on the Samsung would certainly cause the black bars to go away or at least change dramatically. Do the zoom options work when watching regular TV programming?

Jon

Jon:

All of the Zooms cut off about 2 inches of the screen, plus it distorts the picture significantly. It just so happens I took a decent picture of the effect before I left for the weekend. This is the same picture I sent Samsung a week ago. (they still haven't gotten back to me yet) The image is too large to upload, but I'll stick it on my web server asap and post a link.

~Lance

http://home.insightbb.com/~l.waidzunas/DSCN0981_1.JPG

What are some reputable bulb suppliers for these sets? I'm gauging if I should get a bulb warranty with the set. Also, does this set have a "game" mode like hlr xxx8 sets?

What are some reputable bulb suppliers for these sets? I'm gauging if I should get a bulb warranty with the set. Also, does this set have a "game" mode like hlr xxx8 sets?

You can find your lamp on www.samsungparts.com. I haven't looked up the HLRxx67W lamps, but my new HLRxx68W lamp was $372 + shipping + tax. I think the 67 series lamps are not as expensive.

The 67 series has the same GAME mode as the xxx8 sets.

You can find your lamp on samsungparts. I haven't looked up the HLRxx67W lamps, but my new HLRxx68W lamp was $372 + shipping + tax. I think the 67 series lamps are not as expensive.

Thanks. Wow thats expensive. I work from home so my TV gets lots of wear (I like background noise / images). Is there anything that makes these particularly expensive or is it just the newness of the sets?

Has anyone here experienced problems attempting to enable the optical out from the Samsung? When I go into the TV's menu and select sound the Digital Output option is grayed out and I can't figure out how to enable it. Anyone know how to resolve this issue?


Thanks

The digital optical out is always enabled as far as I know. What you're unable to do is change the options for it. It will only allow you to change the options when you're watching a digital channel using the internal tuner. If you're watching an analog channel or are using RCA jack L/R audio inputs there aren't any options to change. It is what it is, which is PCM bit stream in those cases. I'm not using HDMI but I believe the same thing exists there, too. PCM bit stream is the only option.

Jon

Thanks. Wow thats expensive. I work from home so my TV gets lots of wear (I like background noise / images). Is there anything that makes these particularly expensive or is it just the newness of the sets?

Checked on Samsungparts.com, and the lamp is listed at $199 for the 5667W. Not sure what shipping is, or if it's the exact part number on the lamp code sticker on mine at home, but I think it is.


In regards to rainbows, I definetly see them, but I just don't think about it and just let my eyes relax and watch the tv. Not sure if i notice them less, I've had mine about 3 months now. I don't get headaches or anything, so who cares. If that's the only big drawback with the whole DLP thing, I'm a happy camper. I still smile when I see the DLP commercials on TV or hear them on the radio. I want that little melody on the commercials to be the startup melody for the TV!

I LOVE this TV, I seem to have gotten a good one and have had no problems with it.

Quick question? We have the hlr5667 and DISH. When viewing we get a window when changing HD stations. The window says: HD Normal and SD Normal. The SD Normal is always circled. What is the significance of this information?
Thank you

Checked on Samsungparts, and the lamp is listed at $199 for the 5667W. Not sure what shipping is, or if it's the exact part number on the lamp code sticker on mine at home, but I think it is.

Thanks! Can I buy a bulb in advance or do they go bad like batteries (I don't know how the arc style bulbs last (or go out for that matter)? I'd hate for the bulb to go out at an inopportune time and have no replacement.

Quick question? We have the hlr5667 and DISH. When viewing we get a window when changing HD stations. The window says: HD Normal and SD Normal. The SD Normal is always circled. What is the significance of this information?
Thank you

I had the same problem with my Bell Expressvu sat (they use the same equip as dish)

My girlfriend hit something and now its much worse.. the tv doesn't switch from 4:3 to 16:9 auto when switching from sd to hd channels... so very annoying. Any ideas on how to reset the tv or something to try and get that back.

(although now the sat says hd normal or hd stretch.. but still always has sd normal selected)

Thanks! Can I buy a bulb in advance or do they go bad like batteries (I don't know how the arc style bulbs last (or go out for that matter)? I'd hate for the bulb to go out at an inopportune time and have no replacement.

Under normal use, your lamp should last 3 to 5 years. If you want to buy a spare, two things to consider. First, the lamp will probably be out of warranty by the time you use it. So if it fails immediately, you will not be able to get it replaced. Also, make absolutely sure you have the right part. If you get the wrong lamp, you won't realize it until it is to late to return it.

I feel that I will be using my TV for a while (or at least someone in my family will have it), so I picked up an extra lamp.

trueimage,
Our TV doesn't switch from 4:3 to 16:9 automatically. Should it? Hopefully someone can help us out here.

Under normal use, your lamp should last 3 to 5 years. If you want to buy a spare, two things to consider. First, the lamp will probably be out of warranty by the time you use it. So if it fails immediately, you will not be able to get it replaced. Also, make absolutely sure you have the right part. If you get the wrong lamp, you won't realize it until it is to late to return it.

I feel that I will be using my TV for a while (or at least someone in my family will have it), so I picked up an extra lamp.

Thanks! I guess I can test it and put the original back in unless they're specifically designed to be used once which I doubt, no?