You can do like you said and put NEW lamp in but leave it in.Just keep old one till NEW one FAILS!

I am trying to chronicle the issue, but I didn't think that tracking every call was needed until recently... If you feel that any details are lacking, please give me a bump. If you have ideas for me when I talk to Samsung, please PM me.

Also, I am interested to find any others who have had similar issues with the Samsung DLP TVs. I didn't want to post this into the owners thread, but I did check there and I didn't find anything useful...

This is the DLP TV for which I have issues:
HLR5667W

56" Widscreen HDTV with Digital Cable ReadyTuner

Again, although I am still working with both Samsung and Wolf I would like your opinion on me and my proposed resolution. At this point I feel that the only appropriate course of action is to rush ship me a new TV from a local distributor and haul the old one away. If Samsung still wishes to pursue the repair of the TV they would be able to do so at their own leisure, without impacting me.

See below for details…


Basically, my HDTV started to shut itself off around 08/08/05. I called Samsung and they said a repair facility would be in contact with me Monday to arrange in-home service.

After an initial field visit the tech determined that they needed to take the TV into the shop so that they could reproduce the error. Although I did not want to give up my TV I agreed and they returned it about 1.5 weeks later. A few boards (one digital and one analog) were replaced in the unit.

After watching the TV for approximately an hour I began to notice that the colors were ‘off’ and called Wolf and Samsung. They scheduled another appointment for the next week. When the tech arrived he looked at the TV and agreed that the picture was terrible but did not know what to do to fix the issue.

Per Samsung’s suggestion, the next week another tech came out to attempt to recover some picture settings from the ‘optical block’ to program into the TV. This was another unsuccessful attempt to repair the new problem after the initial fix was attempted.

Between the time that the TV was returned and the second tech came to pull numbers from the ‘optical block’, the original problem began to re-appear. I called both Samsung and Wolf service center to tell them that the original problem was back and that the fix attempted did not solve the problem.

The next visit by Wolf brought with it a new ‘Optical Block’ (which contained all the settings needed to fix the second issue caused by the attempted repair of the first issue). The new part and settings resolved the issue with the colors, but the original problem of the TV turning itself off remained.

I am completely unsatisfied with the service that Samsung and Wolf have provided me. Due to the failed repair attempt, I began to ask for a new unit when the TV was returned and the colors were ‘wrong’ (again, this due to the attempted fix of the original issue). Samsung has repeatedly told me that they have a ‘policy’ not to exchange a unit when there is a possibility of repairing the unit. Wolf seems unwilling (through the course of their actions) to admit ‘defeat’ and appears to be perfectly satisfied to continue ‘throwing parts’ and the issue until a miracle happens and they happen to find the problem.

One thing of note here is that Wolf is obtaining all of the possible solutions from Samsung, and are not really ‘diagnosing’ the issue. To me this means that the repair cycle could continue indefinitely, with no possible issue resolution for me!

In the mean time the originally problem has progressed to the point that my $xxxx TV is useless. I am no longer able to watch TV for more than a few minutes before the TV decides to turn itself off. It has now been almost 2 months since my initial complaint about the TV. That is almost a sixth of the manufacturer’s warranty period.

Not only am I frustrated with the repeated and failed repair attempts, but I am also frustrated with Wolf’s repair schedule which only allows for Monday and Wednesday ‘routes’ to the Beaverton area.

ESDWYER:

In my humble opinion, you'll have to move up the Samsung food chain to get anything more done at this point. Those you're now dealing with will probably continue to follow "company policy" instead of common sense, which means that if "company policy" states no replacement, they won't replace it.

I suggest contacting the highest Samsung customer service contact you can reach by email or letter. Outline the problems as you've done here, and maybe you'll find someone who is actually interested in customer service. Meanwhile, the more they try to "fix" this particular set, the more your chances of future problems become.

Let us know how you do with this..

I just got my hlr5667w and am loving it. I have Comcast, and using a cable card. It's been 3 or 4 days, and I can't get the TV guide channel to show listings. I read a post here that said there was something about Comcast that didn't play nice with the TV guide thing, so I called Samsung. First time, they told me to wait a while longer, or to try to reset and reload the TV guide listings. I tried both of this, but still nothing.
I called them again, and a guy told me that it probably won't work with a cable card. He said the only way it might work is if my PBS channel is analog (it's not for me).
So, is anybody else getting TV guide to work with Comcast and a cable card ?

I just got my hlr5667w and am loving it. I have Comcast, and using a cable card. It's been 3 or 4 days, and I can't get the TV guide channel to show listings. I read a post here that said there was something about Comcast that didn't play nice with the TV guide thing, so I called Samsung. First time, they told me to wait a while longer, or to try to reset and reload the TV guide listings. I tried both of this, but still nothing.
I called them again, and a guy told me that it probably won't work with a cable card. He said the only way it might work is if my PBS channel is analog (it's not for me).
So, is anybody else getting TV guide to work with Comcast and a cable card ?

You do not get the guide and On Demand with the Comcast cable card. You need the cable box if you want these features. I have the HD box with DVR. It's pretty cool.

I saw on the forum somewhere that turning the TV on is equivalent to 12 hours of continuous operation for the bulb. That sounds a little extreme. I can see how turning the TV off and on frequently can shorten the bulb life, but 12 hours seems high. That means that every day I watch TV for 4 hours, that is 16 hours of bulb life?

Are there any other estimates out there for the impact of switching the bulb off and on?

I've posted a few times regarding the screen on my HL-R5667W not filling out in component with a PS2 as well as some ghosting. Well today I was bored so I decided to capture the problems with my camera. I did a little bit of editing to one of the pictures, which I'm sure you will all find interesting. Take a look at the link as well as the picture I've attached. I'm going to call Samsung about this soon, unfortunately I'll be out of town for 2 weeks so nothing will get resolved until November, but still this is pretty good evidence there is something wrong w/ some of these TV's.

http://community.webshots.com/album/469261514olbLfB

~Lance

You do not get the guide and On Demand with the Comcast cable card. You need the cable box if you want these features. I have the HD box with DVR. It's pretty cool.

You know what ? This morning, the TV GUIDE thing is WORKING ! So much for needing analog PBS, or needing a cable box. I think you just gotta be patient and wait a few days ! Or maybe you gotta complain in a public forum.

i live in san diego and notice that thet upgraded their hdtv...this past week from theor 3.1 pasport to 4.2 and the results are better quality picture.... i have a samsung.... 5067 hlr.... butt amny of the hd channesl have lost thier audio to a point of being very low... i normally hear things at a setting of 10....but with the abc and nbc 708 and 710 (hd)as well as the inhd channels and hbo... i have to put it at 30 to hear it..... i am connected with a pioneer voyager converter... checked with time warner, have re booted and even checked all the setting in the convertor as well as the audio output which is at 100 and the front of the box which is at max. any clues? thanks al anaolog and most of the other hdtv channel s i get the audio well

Hey everyone.

Hopefully, somebody will be able to provide me with some insight/advice...

I recently received my new HLR5067 Samsung SLP TV. I tried to insert the cable card (from the box) into the cable card slot on back of the tv as per the instructions. Well it fell in...

When I tried to retrieve it, it fell back even further. I have called a technican to retrieve the card (Because cablevision will charge me for a new box).

From the looks of it, it seems as though the cablecard is in an enclosed metal box. My fear is that they won't be able to retireve it and have to break it open and get a new part(not fam. with tv tech)...

So:

A) Does anyone know if a technician should be able to retrieve the card.

B) Does anyone know of an easy way to retrieve the card.

BTW, I am aware of the fact that the card must go into a female adapter and then into the slot;they explained that to me after the fact.

T

I've had my 4667 for a month now and it's great! I do however, have a problem. The left side of the screens seems to be out of focus. This is only noticible when connected to my PC. Text is out of focus on that side.

Can this be adjusted by tweaking or by accessing the system via the service port?
If so, how can I do it - I read all the threads about tweaking different parameters but how do you access them?

Thanks

If this has been answered already, sorry I can't find it.

Just got a HLR6167W and I live in Cablevison IO area - Great picture with no cable box, direct wire the cable to the set. Channel numbers are all mixed up and HD channels are difficult to find.

I have read that with the Cablecard SD will have a better picture. Does it resolve the channel number problem? Will the TV Guide still work? Compare it to the 4200HD. I do not use any interactive features in this room, we have a Plasma in our Den where we have a 4200HD.

Please let me know the good and bad.

Hey all,

Just sharing my experiences with my new HLR4667W.

Overall rating (1-10) where perfect for me would be:
1. no audio lag
2. better SD upconversion capabilities
3. Ability to scale the viewing area by % to properly remove black-sidebars and no screen loss on all Source inputs.

I give it a 7.

Here is my setup for those thinking about the same thing...
- No HD. Only DVD and SD through HTPC.
- SageTV 2.2.8 with 200 ms audio delay
- PC - PC input w/ VGA out from an NVIDIA GeForce 5200 videocard
- AVI 2 - GAME input w/ PS2


Good:
- PRICE: The 46' 720p is cheap compared to 50" 1080p. Got great deal and service at TVAuthority.com, so kudos to them.
- LOOKS: Gorgeous 'floating screen' display is huge for WAF and she is an interior designer and truly picky about what is in her living room! :)
- PQ DVD: PQ impressive on DVD and not even using upconverting software filters (FFDShow) yet.
- PQ SD: Can be great. (but, it can suck). Depends on type of show and source I guess.
- INPUTS: Lots of inputs. HDMI, Component, PC, and Firewire.
- AUDIO LAG: Audio lag corrected with one-time setup in SageTV to do audio delay. My advice is no to buy a high-end receiver to do this delay if you already have PVR software to do it for you.
- GAME LAG: PS2 - no game lag noticeable on Battlefront so far. PQ isn't best, but it is composite afterall.

Bad:
- BLACKBARS: Don't like black bars on top, left, right, and bottom when in PC mode. Which for me is ALWAYS! Tried Wide TV mode and I lost the view on the edges of the screen. So, either I miss part of the show or watch inside a black box, I guess. Don't like how TV puts black sidebars when playing PS2 (just like TV in PC mode). Would like to have it fill whole screen and not zoom too far, so I lose part of the view on the edges.
- REMOTE: remote is goofy, but I don't really use it much because I use a remote for my HTPC instead.
- DOCUMENTATION: Lack of clarity in documentation on IEEE1394 connection capabilities of the TV. I'm interested in taking advantage of this feature, but hard to understand just "how" to do this.

Hello All,
I am new to the site and new to whole dlp thing so any advice anyone has about the unit would be great. Now, I am going from a samsung 27" tube that I've had for about 16 years to the mammoth hlr6167 that will be here next week :D I will be using it for dvd,gaming,and digi cable w/time warner (Will get hd later if wife lets) It will also have 1st gen tivo, a old pioneer dvd player dv-505, and a pioneer dsx-d2s avr. As you can see this tv is the first major ht upgrade for me so I'm super excited about :D

So if anyone has any advice on cables or settings they would like to share with me to get the best picture that would be great. Also my tv will be about 10' away from couch.

P.S. Does anyone know anything about the free samsung dvd player rebate I got w/purchase,It is a samsung HD-755

This is a noob question, but when I get HDTV, do I need a cable box if I get the HLR4667W? If so, won't the cable box connect to the TV via HDMI? The HDMI port is the only port to recieve HD picture, correct?

You do not need a cable box to receive HD programming on the xx67W sets. You will be able to receive local HD programming over the air with an antenna, and from your cable company using a Cable Card (which they have to give you). As to your latter question, you can get an HD signal through the TV's HDMI or component inputs. I believe VGA can also receive HD signals.

So, when recieving HDTV from my local cable company, I will not by using my HDMI input, correct? For other TV's, where a cable box is needed, they connect to the HDMI input, right?

Which connnection to use depends on what the cable box can supply. If it has HDMI outputs it'll also have component outputs so you could choose either one.

You do not need a cablecard to receive HD signals over the cable coax input. The internal tuner can receive HD signals just fine. The cablecard is only needed to descramble premium channels, whether they're in HD or not. They do not have to give you one. They have to provide one, but it is often for a fee.

Jon

So, when recieving HDTV from my local cable company, I will not by using my HDMI input, correct? For other TV's, where a cable box is needed, they connect to the HDMI input, right?

Your best bet on receiving HD from your cable company is to get a HD DVR and connect it to your HDTV via HDMI or component video. If you have have an up converting DVD player with HDMI, you can experiment with both the DVR and DVD player to see which has the most improvement on HMDI and allocate your HDMI input to that unit and then use component video on the other unit. You probably can get some HD channels from your cable company by directly connecting the cable to the TV, but usually some of the best HD channels will be scambled.

I want to hook a computer up to my hlr-5067w...
My computer has an ati radeon 9800pro with a regular vga output and one dvi output...
Should I use a vga cable or a dvi to hdmi cable? Which one will look better?

I am trying to chronicle the issue, but I didn't think that tracking every call was needed until recently... If you feel that any details are lacking, please give me a bump. If you have ideas for me when I talk to Samsung, please PM me.

Also, I am interested to find any others who have had similar issues with the Samsung DLP TVs. I didn't want to post this into the owners thread, but I did check there and I didn't find anything useful...

This is the DLP TV for which I have issues:
HLR5667W

56" Widscreen HDTV with Digital Cable ReadyTuner

Again, although I am still working with both Samsung and Wolf I would like your opinion on me and my proposed resolution. At this point I feel that the only appropriate course of action is to rush ship me a new TV from a local distributor and haul the old one away. If Samsung still wishes to pursue the repair of the TV they would be able to do so at their own leisure, without impacting me.

See below for details…


Basically, my HDTV started to shut itself off around 08/08/05. I called Samsung and they said a repair facility would be in contact with me Monday to arrange in-home service.

After an initial field visit the tech determined that they needed to take the TV into the shop so that they could reproduce the error. Although I did not want to give up my TV I agreed and they returned it about 1.5 weeks later. A few boards (one digital and one analog) were replaced in the unit.

After watching the TV for approximately an hour I began to notice that the colors were ‘off’ and called Wolf and Samsung. They scheduled another appointment for the next week. When the tech arrived he looked at the TV and agreed that the picture was terrible but did not know what to do to fix the issue.

Per Samsung’s suggestion, the next week another tech came out to attempt to recover some picture settings from the ‘optical block’ to program into the TV. This was another unsuccessful attempt to repair the new problem after the initial fix was attempted.

Between the time that the TV was returned and the second tech came to pull numbers from the ‘optical block’, the original problem began to re-appear. I called both Samsung and Wolf service center to tell them that the original problem was back and that the fix attempted did not solve the problem.

The next visit by Wolf brought with it a new ‘Optical Block’ (which contained all the settings needed to fix the second issue caused by the attempted repair of the first issue). The new part and settings resolved the issue with the colors, but the original problem of the TV turning itself off remained.

I am completely unsatisfied with the service that Samsung and Wolf have provided me. Due to the failed repair attempt, I began to ask for a new unit when the TV was returned and the colors were ‘wrong’ (again, this due to the attempted fix of the original issue). Samsung has repeatedly told me that they have a ‘policy’ not to exchange a unit when there is a possibility of repairing the unit. Wolf seems unwilling (through the course of their actions) to admit ‘defeat’ and appears to be perfectly satisfied to continue ‘throwing parts’ and the issue until a miracle happens and they happen to find the problem.

One thing of note here is that Wolf is obtaining all of the possible solutions from Samsung, and are not really ‘diagnosing’ the issue. To me this means that the repair cycle could continue indefinitely, with no possible issue resolution for me!

In the mean time the originally problem has progressed to the point that my $xxxx TV is useless. I am no longer able to watch TV for more than a few minutes before the TV decides to turn itself off. It has now been almost 2 months since my initial complaint about the TV. That is almost a sixth of the manufacturer’s warranty period.

Not only am I frustrated with the repeated and failed repair attempts, but I am also frustrated with Wolf’s repair schedule which only allows for Monday and Wednesday ‘routes’ to the Beaverton area.



I have 3 mth old HLR4667 and I have a similar issue. The samsung tech rep came twice now, replaced a blub in the first visit and did;t show the pictiure. In the second visit
replaced the enrite DMD board, ligh engine part and still the same, the tv does not
switch on, so he then replaced the video processor card which has the
cable/cable card slot, the picture started comming up but a new provlem is seen:
the TV shuts itself off 5 minutes.

Am I entitled to a new TV if the samsung tech rep cannot fix it in the third visit?
What does the lemon law states? Obviosuly we cannot wait too long like 2 mths
without having to watch the tv, is the consumer entitled to a refund or a new
TV in case they cannot make it work aftera few visits?

Thanks

Impressions from first day of using my new HLR-5667W.

Setup:

*Toshiba Up-Converting DVD to TV HDMI input, Optical Output to Denon 3805 Receiver
* Charter Digital HD Cable Box with DVR via Component to TV Component 1 and S-Video to TV S-video input, Optical Output to Denon 3805 Receiver
* Powered OTA HD Rabbit Ears into TV Coax input

Impressions:

DVD's - So far I have thrown in Star Wars Episode II and House of Flying Daggers. Star Wars was incredible...thought I noticed some audio lag issues, but was able to adjust receiver audio lag to fix. House of Flying Daggers was good, but I noticed that it was upconverted material a little more. Source material most likely.

HD Channels on Charter - These looked very nice.. I watched a bit of the Fox baseball game and Without a Trace on CBS and they both quite good.

SD Cable Channels on Charter - I was a bit disappointed with the quality of the picture for standard definition channels. Most channels looked like inferior to my old Sony 36" with the same feed. The picture was obviously much larger, but it didn't look as sharp. I tried both the S-video and Component input and there wasn't much difference. I may hook up the cable directly into the TV and bypass cable box to see the difference. I hate to do that though as the cable box has built in DVR capabilities. It may be that I have to live with the fact that SD channels just don't look all that great on a 56" TV.

Powered OTA HD Rabbit Ears - This was just plain horrible. No matter how I fussed with the antenna I could not get a very good signal. I haven't heard much in the way of good reports on these indoor antennas and may have to put something on the roof for picking up OTA signal. Kind of a disappointment as Charter only currently delivers FOX, CBS, NBC and not ABC or WB for HD channels.

Smudge - Looked like there was a smudge in the upper left corner of the screen. I took a clean dry cloth and attempted to wipe the area and it only seemed to make the smudge worse. My guess here is that it's not on the screen itself but behind and the pressure I applied increased the issue. This was with the TV off so I'll probably let the TV run for a few hours and see if it disappears. If not?

Summary:

Overall I'm very pleased with HD and DVD content, not as much with SD content. I bought at Best Buy and have 30 days to return, I'll likely watch for a week or two and decide if I've worked out my SD issues or need to see other tv's in SD mode.

I have 3 mth old HLR4667 and I have a similar issue. The samsung tech rep came twice now, replaced a blub in the first visit and did;t show the pictiure. In the second visit
replaced the enrite DMD board, ligh engine part and still the same, the tv does not
switch on, so he then replaced the video processor card which has the
cable/cable card slot, the picture started comming up but a new provlem is seen:
the TV shuts itself off 5 minutes.

Am I entitled to a new TV if the samsung tech rep cannot fix it in the third visit?
What does the lemon law states? Obviosuly we cannot wait too long like 2 mths
without having to watch the tv, is the consumer entitled to a refund or a new
TV in case they cannot make it work aftera few visits?

Thanks

Samsung has good customer service. They are giving me a full refund on my HLR-6167w because of the video game delay and the bending of the floating screen. I would call them and just demand you a refund from them and they should take care of you.

Samsung has good customer service. They are giving me a full refund on my HLR-6167w because of the video game delay and the bending of the floating screen. I would call them and just demand you a refund from them and they should take care of you.

There is a fix for the bending problem. Contact Ameriwood Industries, the stand manufacturer, for the parts necessary.

Hello All,
I am new to the site and new to whole dlp thing so any advice anyone has about the unit would be great. Now, I am going from a samsung 27" tube that I've had for about 16 years to the mammoth hlr6167 that will be here next week :D I will be using it for dvd,gaming,and digi cable w/time warner (Will get hd later if wife lets) It will also have 1st gen tivo, a old pioneer dvd player dv-505, and a pioneer dsx-d2s avr. As you can see this tv is the first major ht upgrade for me so I'm super excited about :D

So if anyone has any advice on cables or settings they would like to share with me to get the best picture that would be great. Also my tv will be about 10' away from couch.

P.S. Does anyone know anything about the free samsung dvd player rebate I got w/purchase,It is a samsung HD-755

Anybody?

Anybody?

10' is awful close for a TV that size... but you be the judge of that. I was sitting 7' from a 52" and it was killing me... you'd think bigger is better, but it actually causes eye strain when the tv is over-sized for the room.

Make sure all of your components are using the best connection (hdmi/dvi if you have it, or component cables at a minimum). I've found that the $6 component cables on ebay (or $16 6' ones at Home Depot) are just as good as the $99 Monster brand ones (and up) as long as your cable distances are short (under 12'). Again, much of it is opinion and what your eyes tell you.

Also, I believe your Samsung has a digital tuner and HD tuner, so you'll be amazed how many you'll get even if you only subscribe to basic cable... I have $12 basic cable and I now get approximately 30 more channels, and about 5 in HD.

Enjoy

There is a fix for the bending problem. Contact Ameriwood Industries, the stand manufacturer, for the parts necessary.

I do not have the Samsung stand. The bend I am talking about is the gap in the floating screen. It is almost touching at the ends now.

I do not have the Samsung stand. The bend I am talking about is the gap in the floating screen. It is almost touching at the ends now.

Almost touching?!?! Wow. Mine has bent a little bit, I've had it for almost 4 months, but it's nowhere near touching.

Did you try calling Samsung? Is it still in your year warrenty?

I do not have the Samsung stand. The bend I am talking about is the gap in the floating screen. It is almost touching at the ends now.

The parts I was referring to from Ameriwood Industries are nearly invisible inserts, placed in the gap between the floating screen and the silvery bottom section of the TV. They work! And they can be used regardless of what brand of stand you own.

Just got my HLR5067W and wanted to share my initial feedback. Overall I am very happy with the unit. It looks very cool and everyone who has seen it has been very impressed. Connecting to it from Comcast HD/DVR box and the HD looks very good. On occasion I've noticed some HD channels as being "jumpy" but I think thats more the source than anything else. DVDs haven't looked so good but I think thats because I'm connecting it with a pretty lame DVD player over S-Video.

The one thing that has jumped out at me is that the recommended viewing distances people provide are insane. Maybe its because its new but I cannot imagine being any closer than 10 feet and watching the TV. Watching it from 15 feet is perfectly fine for me. But in terms of movie theaters I like to sit about 2/3 up from the screen so I guess its user preference. When I first hooked up the TV and looked at it from about 7 feet with an HD feed I was getting a headache.

Anyway, loving the set.

--The Dan

Does anyone know if these can be "kid-proofed"?

I've got an HLR4667 and I'd love to be able to disable the on/off functionality of the front button. As many of you know, these sets don't take to being cycled on and off quickly like a crt can handle.

Does anyone know if these can be "kid-proofed"?

I've got an HLR4667 and I'd love to be able to disable the on/off functionality of the front button. As many of you know, these sets don't take to being cycled on and off quickly like a crt can handle.
Sure, just tape a piece of plastic in front of the button.

Sure, just tape a piece of plastic in front of the button.

It probably doesn't help that turning the TV on and off makes that video game noise. Thats something that could keep a small child entertained for hours.

You can turn off the power on/off sound in the setup menu.

I just replaced my old HD Panasonic with a new 61" DLP 720p version. All works great except XBOX is like now all green on component input. All connections double checked and swapped with DVD to check both component inputs on TV - TV inputs appear fine. I was told in an XBOX forum there is a green push tweak to correct this. Do not want the fix to mess up another viewing thing but this is messed up...

Any help? I am assuming the TV is fine.

I just replaced my old HD Panasonic with a new 61" DLP 720p version. All works great except XBOX is like now all green on component input. All connections double checked and swapped with DVD to check both component inputs on TV - TV inputs appear fine. I was told in an XBOX forum there is a green push tweak to correct this. Do not want the fix to mess up another viewing thing but this is messed up...

Any help? I am assuming the TV is fine.

You mean the dashboard and startup, or during gameplay?
Did you change the settings on your xbox?

The severe green push seems there all the time but especially during play. We have tried all the video settings on the XBOX thinking 480p should be the correct one.

FLASH UPDATE - just spoke to Samsung and they informed me component 1 input ONLY supports 480p and component 2 input supports 720p. Well my XBOX is plugged into component 2 so they say it will not work there on any setting. Guess I will test it tonight on component 1 at 480p on widescreen, all other video settings 'off' for now (e.g. 720p and 1080i modes), fingers crossed. Nothing in my Sammy manual re. this. We will see.

FLASH UPDATE - just spoke to Samsung and they informed me component 1 input ONLY supports 480p and component 2 input supports 720p. Well my XBOX is plugged into component 2 so they say it will not work there on any setting. Guess I will test it tonight on component 1 at 480p on widescreen, all other video settings 'off' for now (e.g. 720p and 1080i modes), fingers crossed. Nothing in my Sammy manual re. this. We will see.

Hmmm..ok, I'll try that too. I also noticed that it seemed more green than before, but just assumed the CRT gun in my old tv was dim or something ;).

Do you know how to turn of Dnle or whatever they call it? I only see the demo thing.

I have looked fairly extensively through this site and have not found too much reference to this question. What is the maximum viewing angle of this TV before it starts to get dim and unpleasant to view?

One of the reasons I liked this set was that it appeared to be less prone to light reflected on the screen. This display is going into a room with a lot of light coming in from the sides and behind. Has anyone got this set in a very light environment and will it handle it?

Rushers

AtlantaONE,

I have the HLR-6167W and components used as follows:

Component 1 - SA8300HDDVR
Component 2 - Xbox via MS HD component cables

No green, no problems, all looks great. Are we sure the Level 1 Samsung support person knows what they are talking about?

Ted

Someone is looking at HLN specs. On that model, component 1 was 480i/480p only and only Component 2 supported 720p/1080i. But that was then...

so whats the bottom line on the 5067W? is everybody happy with it? i am trying to find a reason to NOT buy a samsung plasma instead.

Add me to the list of HLR6167W owners. Had mine delivered last Sat 10/15. The mfg date on the back was Sept 05. Been watching it pretty much "out of the box". It's connected to a Mediacom HD cablebox. Wish KGAN/Sinclair would get their act together with Mediacom....

What is the Ameriwood part number for the 5067W tv stand? Ameriwood was clueless as to what i was talking about.

Thanks,
Brian

I just bought a HL-R4266W yesterday and was watching "batman begins" and I noticed a lip sync issue. I am only playing it on two channel from my yamaha c750 dvd player through my yamaha rx-777 reciver.

After the movie i did notice I did not have the dvd player set to the correct screen geometry and was wondering if that could have caused it. Or could it be the lack of a center channel? I am new to this video thing and any insight would be great!!

Thanks

Latest update - an earlier posting by someone is correct: the first Samsung level one person supplied INCORRECT information regarding component 1 and component 2 being different. The latest model like mine (HLR6167), per better level 2 support and my favorite Sammy repair technician, have exact comp 1 and 2 set ups (they both support 480 to 1080i). So my comp 2 has now been confirmed bad out of the box since everything works ok on comp 1. Called Brandsmart to do a pickup and exchange.

Wow, this is TV #2 bad in 2 weeks!!! First one dead out of box because the tuner was stuck on air and would not auto program cable - confirmed by Samsung warranty visit that time. Gajeez, 3rd time charm? Never had bad stuff out of box before.

My HD air is perfect after I switched from some rabbit ears and began using an old 8 ft plus antenna left in my attic as a pre-cable relic from YEARS ago. It needed a $30 25DB amplifier from Home Depot to avoid some occasional channel loss breakup - picture like DVD, awesome.

Point a larger antenna the correct direction to the transmitters. I am 18 miles out from like 15 channels and growing, used the antenna... web site to tell me compass headings, distance and antenna type needed.

What is the Ameriwood part number for the 5067W tv stand? Ameriwood was clueless as to what i was talking about.

The stand part number is TR46X3

Hi all. new to this board, and purchased R5067W model 2 weeks ago. Now for some questions (sorry to ask if, maybe they already been answerd..but dont have time to read all 46 pages):

1: I have a VCR and DVD players i'm trying to program for Samsung remote, but not having any luck. My Philips DVP642/37 DVD player. Tried what manual told me...entered 3 digit code for Philips DVD player...but nothing. As for my VCR, Samsung TV manual doesnt have ANY codes for JVC VCRs. Model number HR-J433U. When I had my Sony TV, i was able to program it w/out problems, same was for Zenith TV. But not samsung. Please let me know if you know the 3 digit codes for these models.

2: DNIe option - I personally played around w/this option and came to the conclusion that DNIe option is off. Reason being - first tried the demo option to see the difference, and then turn it off. No matter what picture it was, it always looked the same as DNIe OFF then ON part of screen. I read the first page and everyone states its always ON, but maybe something changed in the next 45 pages. Is there a way to turn it ON and OFF or just Demo?

3: Probably off topic, but when first connected cable wire to TV (no cable box or DVR), and did Auto Setup for channels, it showed me DiscoveryHD, INHD (1,2) and even saw part of ROME (which I believe only playes on HBO). "HBO" disapeard the next day, but other 3 channels stayed on for a week and only then desapeard. I'm still getting local HD and normal channels...but not others.

4: I tried connecting my laptop to the TV via VGA cable, but it can only go up to 1024x768 resolution or 800x600. Is it because my laptop can't handle better resolutions or something w/TV settings.

Thanks for any help :)

I want to hook a computer up to my hlr-5067w...
My computer has an ati radeon 9800pro with a regular vga output and one dvi output...
Should I use a vga cable or a dvi to hdmi cable? Which one will look better?

DVI should be better than VGA as it will keep the picture digital the whole way through whereas VGA is an analog connection which forces the PC to convert video from digital to analog and the TV will bring it from analog to digital (for the DLP chip), giving you two conversions and two potential quality losses versus none with DVI.

On DNIE: Someone on this board mentioned that in DNIE demo mode the TV adjust the contrast on the "on" side. When you turn DNIE demo off it look like the "off" side matches the non-demo image. He said he he confirmed this was because of the contrast adjustment during the demo mode, and not because DNIE is actually off.

On monitor resolution: The TV only has 720 veritical lines. So it can't display higher resolution than this. This same thing happens when I connect my laptop to DLP projectors. My laptop has a graphics card capable of much higher resolution, but windows won't let me go higher than the display is capable of.

Tommy

PS. I just got a HLN5067 last week.

Hi all. new to this board, and purchased R5067W model 2 weeks ago. Now for some questions (sorry to ask if, maybe they already been answerd..but dont have time to read all 46 pages):

1: I have a VCR and DVD players i'm trying to program for Samsung remote, but not having any luck. My Philips DVP642/37 DVD player. Tried what manual told me...entered 3 digit code for Philips DVD player...but nothing. As for my VCR, Samsung TV manual doesnt have ANY codes for JVC VCRs. Model number HR-J433U. When I had my Sony TV, i was able to program it w/out problems, same was for Zenith TV. But not samsung. Please let me know if you know the 3 digit codes for these models.

2: DNIe option - I personally played around w/this option and came to the conclusion that DNIe option is off. Reason being - first tried the demo option to see the difference, and then turn it off. No matter what picture it was, it always looked the same as DNIe OFF then ON part of screen. I read the first page and everyone states its always ON, but maybe something changed in the next 45 pages. Is there a way to turn it ON and OFF or just Demo?

3: Probably off topic, but when first connected cable wire to TV (no cable box or DVR), and did Auto Setup for channels, it showed me DiscoveryHD, INHD (1,2) and even saw part of ROME (which I believe only playes on HBO). "HBO" disapeard the next day, but other 3 channels stayed on for a week and only then desapeard. I'm still getting local HD and normal channels...but not others.

4: I tried connecting my laptop to the TV via VGA cable, but it can only go up to 1024x768 resolution or 800x600. Is it because my laptop can't handle better resolutions or something w/TV settings.

Thanks for any help :)

The question is which video input you are using? The delay is associated with upconverting images, so if you use component (green, red, blue) inputs or the hdmi input, you shouldn't see any delay.

I just watched it on my 4266 on Tuesday night and didn't see any delay.

I just bought a HL-R4266W yesterday and was watching "batman begins" and I noticed a lip sync issue. I am only playing it on two channel from my yamaha c750 dvd player through my yamaha rx-777 reciver.

After the movie i did notice I did not have the dvd player set to the correct screen geometry and was wondering if that could have caused it. Or could it be the lack of a center channel? I am new to this video thing and any insight would be great!!

Thanks

Almost touching?!?! Wow. Mine has bent a little bit, I've had it for almost 4 months, but it's nowhere near touching.

Did you try calling Samsung? Is it still in your year warrenty?

Yes Samsung is giving me a full refund because of it.

What is the Ameriwood part number for the 5067W tv stand? Ameriwood was clueless as to what i was talking about.

Thanks,
Brian

It's the Samsung TR46X3 adjustable stand that Ameriwood private-labels for them. Their "fix" consists of two flat black spacers that slide into the gap between the floating screen and silvery bottom front section of the TV. When the bottom section bows due to its being non-supported by the stand in the middle-front section, there is a corresponding "pinch" of the gap. The spacers prevent this from happening. It is unclear if these spacers are just temporary or all that Ameriwood is prepared to do about the bowing problem.

I will attempt to get a contact name and phone number at Ameriwood, and pass it on here.

Carl

Hi all. new to this board, and purchased R5067W model 2 weeks ago. Now for some questions (sorry to ask if, maybe they already been answerd..but dont have time to read all 46 pages):

1: I have a VCR and DVD players i'm trying to program for Samsung remote, but not having any luck. My Philips DVP642/37 DVD player. Tried what manual told me...entered 3 digit code for Philips DVD player...but nothing. As for my VCR, Samsung TV manual doesnt have ANY codes for JVC VCRs. Model number HR-J433U. When I had my Sony TV, i was able to program it w/out problems, same was for Zenith TV. But not samsung. Please let me know if you know the 3 digit codes for these models.

2: DNIe option - I personally played around w/this option and came to the conclusion that DNIe option is off. Reason being - first tried the demo option to see the difference, and then turn it off. No matter what picture it was, it always looked the same as DNIe OFF then ON part of screen. I read the first page and everyone states its always ON, but maybe something changed in the next 45 pages. Is there a way to turn it ON and OFF or just Demo?

3: Probably off topic, but when first connected cable wire to TV (no cable box or DVR), and did Auto Setup for channels, it showed me DiscoveryHD, INHD (1,2) and even saw part of ROME (which I believe only playes on HBO). "HBO" disapeard the next day, but other 3 channels stayed on for a week and only then desapeard. I'm still getting local HD and normal channels...but not others.

4: I tried connecting my laptop to the TV via VGA cable, but it can only go up to 1024x768 resolution or 800x600. Is it because my laptop can't handle better resolutions or something w/TV settings.

Thanks for any help :)

I'll try to answer your question #2, based on other posts I've read.
Unlike its HLP predessesor, the HLR's DNIe feature cannot be turned off. The demo mode merely simulates the"enhancement", as compared to no DNIe. So with the DNIe on, the other half of the screen in the demo mode "fudges" the picture to show you what having it off would look like. The demo is supposed to convince you that "on" is better than "off". However, many here do not agree.

Hi all. new to this board, and purchased R5067W model 2 weeks ago. Now for some questions (sorry to ask if, maybe they already been answerd..but dont have time to read all 46 pages):

1: I have a VCR and DVD players i'm trying to program for Samsung remote, but not having any luck. My Philips DVP642/37 DVD player. Tried what manual told me...entered 3 digit code for Philips DVD player...but nothing. As for my VCR, Samsung TV manual doesnt have ANY codes for JVC VCRs. Model number HR-J433U. When I had my Sony TV, i was able to program it w/out problems, same was for Zenith TV. But not samsung. Please let me know if you know the 3 digit codes for these models.

2: DNIe option - I personally played around w/this option and came to the conclusion that DNIe option is off. Reason being - first tried the demo option to see the difference, and then turn it off. No matter what picture it was, it always looked the same as DNIe OFF then ON part of screen. I read the first page and everyone states its always ON, but maybe something changed in the next 45 pages. Is there a way to turn it ON and OFF or just Demo?

3: Probably off topic, but when first connected cable wire to TV (no cable box or DVR), and did Auto Setup for channels, it showed me DiscoveryHD, INHD (1,2) and even saw part of ROME (which I believe only playes on HBO). "HBO" disapeard the next day, but other 3 channels stayed on for a week and only then desapeard. I'm still getting local HD and normal channels...but not others.

4: I tried connecting my laptop to the TV via VGA cable, but it can only go up to 1024x768 resolution or 800x600. Is it because my laptop can't handle better resolutions or something w/TV settings.

Thanks for any help :)


Let's see

#1 I also had problems programming the remote for the TV, couldn't get it to work w/ my new Sony DVD player, or my JVC VCR. The remote sucks anyway and is poorly designed, so i'm not too upset

#2 DNie can't be turned off, as mentioned a couple posts up. The most useless button on the remote, a button for the stinkin' demo. And there is no PIP swap button, I hope the person who designed that POS remote was fired.

#3 Can't explain why you saw some channels that should be encrypted, but the tuners on these HLR's pick up a crapload of channels. Initial programming of mine found like 320. About 80 were the basic analog channels, then the corresponding 80 in digital format(Comcast has DS'ed all my channels), All the music choice channels, and many "blank" channels which are all the other digital channels that are encrypted(ESPNHD,INHD,Ngeo,ESPNEWS, etc) However some fun things I get:
-Couple channels that should be encryped, Disc health, G4, couple others I think
-ESPN Classic, and some Anime network, Comcast DOESN"T EVEN OFFER ESPN Classic in my area! And my tuner picks it up.
-Several movie channels, that come and go. I'm not sure if these are ondemand movies, or what. I've checked listings and they don't seem to be starz or showtime. They come and go, and i had one 'freeze' up the tv image, and the tv rebooted itself and I heard the tuner clicking, trying to retune or something. Info picks up the rating on them, so I dont know what they are.

#4 I've played with the VGA input, it can show more resolutions that using a DVI out to the HDMI input. Nothing amazing, and I couldn't get the DVI to work in anythign other than 1024X768, and since game resolutions change when you first start them up, I can't play like unreal or something on the TV.

You just bought a two-year old TV?

I bought a HLR5067W, sorry for the confusion. The model numbers make no sense so they are hard to remember.

Whats the best stand to get for the HLR4667W?

Your best bet on receiving HD from your cable company is to get a HD DVR and connect it to your HDTV via HDMI or component video. If you have have an up converting DVD player with HDMI, you can experiment with both the DVR and DVD player to see which has the most improvement on HMDI and allocate your HDMI input to that unit and then use component video on the other unit. You probably can get some HD channels from your cable company by directly connecting the cable to the TV, but usually some of the best HD channels will be scambled.

Should I get one of those 2x1 HDMI converters for $250? Is it worth it?


QUESTION FOR EVERYONE: What do you guys have connected to your HDMI and to your Component inputs?

Thanks!!

Should I get one of those 2x1 HDMI converters for $250? Is it worth it?


QUESTION FOR EVERYONE: What do you guys have connected to your HDMI and to your Component inputs?

Thanks!!

You really need to compare component video to HDMI on the HD DVR/STB to see if there is enough difference to justify getting a HDMI switch. On some cable systems the answer would be yes, but on others the HDMI connection is pretty close to the component video PQ.

UCSB, what are you setting for the tv? Contrast, Sharpness, etc.

Also, what stand are you using?

Should I get one of those 2x1 HDMI converters for $250? Is it worth it?


QUESTION FOR EVERYONE: What do you guys have connected to your HDMI and to your Component inputs?

Thanks!!

I have my D* and *C satellite boxes connected via the component outputs and my Oppo upconverting DVD player connected with a DVI/HDMI cable.

UCSB, what are you setting for the tv? Contrast, Sharpness, etc.

Also, what stand are you using?

I can't give you the settings for a HLRxx67W Samsung 720p set because I have a 1080p HLR5668W and a 720p HLR467W. But, the default setting on my 1080p seemed to be set pretty well as a starting point. A DVD like Digital Video Essentials can help you set your TV for your home environment. If you are a Netflix customer, you can rent it and try it out without purchasing it. But, at $20 it is a nice tool to have.

1) What is this "rainbow" effect that is a problem with samsung dlp's?

2) How come "over cable" hd signal only come in 4:3 format. I get those black vertical bars on the sides. I can't seem to stretch out the image. Btw, these HD channels don't really look like they are hd-quality. They are still a little fuzzy. My old CRT is just as sharp.

3) There is no adjustment for treble and bass for the sound?

Thanks guys.

Has anyone used AVIA or DVE to setup a HLR5067W? If so are you willing to share your settings?

If several people could post their settings that would give the rest of us a good start point.

Thanks,
Tommy

Bioman,
It probably isn't HD. You can go to your menu to stretch it out to 16:9 We get very few Dish HD stations.

Guys,

I knew PC input would create black bars around the edges of my TV (I brought my HTPC and PS2 to the store and hooked it up before purchasing ;-). Anyway, I get approx. a 44" TV instead of a 46". Oh well.

However, it also happens on my PS2 when connected to AV2-GAME input. Never noticed it at the store, but I was mostly looking for game lag instead. So, my questions are:

1. Does anyone have a HTPC hooked up to a XX67 via HDMI or Component and if so, do you get black edges on L, R, and Top like with PC input? What is your video card and res set to?

2. Does anyone have Tivo or DirectTV DVR hooked up to their XX67? Do they make black edges as well? I'd could be tempted away from my HTPC if they do not have black bars like my PC input.

3. Can I get rid of the black bars on PS2 using the PS2 Component cables instead of the Composite?

thanks

1) What is this "rainbow" effect that is a problem with samsung dlp's?

2) How come "over cable" hd signal only come in 4:3 format. I get those black vertical bars on the sides. I can't seem to stretch out the image. Btw, these HD channels don't really look like they are hd-quality. They are still a little fuzzy. My old CRT is just as sharp.

3) There is no adjustment for treble and bass for the sound?

Thanks guys.

1) The rainbow effect is with all DLPs, not just Samsung. There is a color wheel spinning in your set at many thousands of rpm. Light passes through it, and red, green and blue images are sequentially displayed on your screen. Under normal conditions, the eye blends them together over time and you see a beautiful multi-color image. But if you scan the screen back-and-forth or up-and-down rapidly with your eyes, you'll sometimes see a flash of the primary colors. You are sort of freezing the image in time, and the thin bands of colors remind people of a rainbow.
Many do not see them at all or aren't bothered by them. Those that don't see them don't WANT to see them, for fear that they'll see them constantly. Not so. Normal viewing will not cause them to appear. But is you REALLY want to see the effect, look at a black-and-white picture (black background with bold white print) such as credits after a show. Freeze the picture with your remote. Now scan the words quickly with your eyes or look away from the screen quickly. You'll likely see bright bands of colors that are not obviously there when you don't do rapid eye motion.

2) The cable company is either not telecasting in HD or the program is not in HD as broadcast to the cable company by the local station. Many network stations in smaller markets are not yet broadcasting in HD, even though they're getting it from the network that way. They had to go on the air with the HD channel the FCC gave them or lose access to it. But there were no rules about HAVING to broadcast HD, at least not for the next several years.

3) Go to the Sound Menu. Assuming that you want to adjust the sound from the internal audio, be sure the Internal Mute is set to "Off". The Mode is the top option, and has several pre-programmed tone settings. Select one, and then go down to Equalizer to view how it has set the volume controls for the various tone bands. You can either adjust them there to suit your preferences or go to the Custom mode option. When you go to equalizer, all tone band settings there are flat (no cut or boost). Adjust those as you see fit.
External audio from your TV's analog or digital outputs is flat. Adjust with your HT A/V receiver.

carl - thanks a lot, really helpful.

About the sound, I remember in my old sony, when I go to the menu, there was a specific setting for bass and treble and balance. I have to play with the equalizer to adjust those now? I don't really know what each bar of the equalizer does?

And about the fuzzy HD. I only have basic cable right now, so these channels are the local channels such as NBC or ABC. ABC is channel 10 for me, so say I was at ch 11 and then I scroll down to 10. The first ch 10 that comes out will say "D-ABC" and then says HDTV on the bottom of the info box and it will show up in 4:3 format. Then I scroll down the channel one more time and the regular "ABC" channel comes out in 16:9 format. Now, the channel in 4:3 is a sharper than the 16:9 channel, but not really HDTV quality. The "D-ABC" channel, I am assuming, is the free hd-tv channel the broadcast company is sending. So this channel is not really HDTV? And I can't stretch the image out?

[QUOTE=rushers]I have looked fairly extensively through this site and have not found too much reference to this question. What is the maximum viewing angle of this TV before it starts to get dim and unpleasant to view?

One of the reasons I liked this set was that it appeared to be less prone to light reflected on the screen. This display is going into a room with a lot of light coming in from the sides and behind. Has anyone got this set in a very light environment and will it handle it?

Rushers[/QUOTE

Anyone have an answer for me or is this a dumb question?

[QUOTE=rushers]I have looked fairly extensively through this site and have not found too much reference to this question. What is the maximum viewing angle of this TV before it starts to get dim and unpleasant to view?

One of the reasons I liked this set was that it appeared to be less prone to light reflected on the screen. This display is going into a room with a lot of light coming in from the sides and behind. Has anyone got this set in a very light environment and will it handle it?

Rushers[/QUOTE

Anyone have an answer for me or is this a dumb question?

160 degree viewing angle ... for more specs check this thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4954868#post4954868

I got the spacers from ameriwood for my hlr5667. I read about them here and figured I should get them just in case. They seem to be too thick for my tv. Has anyone used them successfully ?

I just bought a HL-R4266W yesterday and was watching "batman begins" and I noticed a lip sync issue. I am only playing it on two channel from my yamaha c750 dvd player through my yamaha rx-777 reciver.

After the movie i did notice I did not have the dvd player set to the correct screen geometry and was wondering if that could have caused it. Or could it be the lack of a center channel? I am new to this video thing and any insight would be great!!

Thanks

Yes, try and set your DVD player to the TV's native of 720p. If you can only do 480p then try that. It will at least bypass the de-interlacer. It is not because you are lacking a center channel. Samsungs have this problem depending on how you have your TV setup and what your content feed is.

If you do not use 5.1 surround, you can get rid of the lip sync problem by running optical out from your TV. This set is terrible for passing audio however and will not pass dolby digital.

Hi all. new to this board, and purchased R5067W model 2 weeks ago. Now for some questions (sorry to ask if, maybe they already been answerd..but dont have time to read all 46 pages):

1: I have a VCR and DVD players i'm trying to program for Samsung remote, but not having any luck. My Philips DVP642/37 DVD player. Tried what manual told me...entered 3 digit code for Philips DVD player...but nothing. As for my VCR, Samsung TV manual doesnt have ANY codes for JVC VCRs. Model number HR-J433U. When I had my Sony TV, i was able to program it w/out problems, same was for Zenith TV. But not samsung. Please let me know if you know the 3 digit codes for these models.

2: DNIe option - I personally played around w/this option and came to the conclusion that DNIe option is off. Reason being - first tried the demo option to see the difference, and then turn it off. No matter what picture it was, it always looked the same as DNIe OFF then ON part of screen. I read the first page and everyone states its always ON, but maybe something changed in the next 45 pages. Is there a way to turn it ON and OFF or just Demo?

3: Probably off topic, but when first connected cable wire to TV (no cable box or DVR), and did Auto Setup for channels, it showed me DiscoveryHD, INHD (1,2) and even saw part of ROME (which I believe only playes on HBO). "HBO" disapeard the next day, but other 3 channels stayed on for a week and only then desapeard. I'm still getting local HD and normal channels...but not others.

4: I tried connecting my laptop to the TV via VGA cable, but it can only go up to 1024x768 resolution or 800x600. Is it because my laptop can't handle better resolutions or something w/TV settings.

Thanks for any help :)

1. I gave up on trying to figure out a code to program it for use with my JVC VCR's. Strange, it has great support for JVC D-VHS through D-Net.

2. DNie is always on. I beleive it can be turned off accessing the service menu (which voids your TV's warranty) but DNie doesn't bother measmuch as some people.

3. The TV is wierd like that. I was going through the digital range one day and saw "The Ring II" in high definition. I started thinking, wait... That movie just came out on DVD. I checked Comcast lineup and it was an HD In-Demand Pay-Per-View offering so go figure. I didn't order it, it wasn't billed, but there it was, in glorious high definition without a cable box.

Crazy huh?

Should I get one of those 2x1 HDMI converters for $250? Is it worth it?


QUESTION FOR EVERYONE: What do you guys have connected to your HDMI and to your Component inputs?

Thanks!!

I read in one of the other forums here that these HDMI splitters cause loss and sometimes they do not initialize correctly when you change inputs. I have no personal experience with them but search around. I apologize i do not recall which forum I saw this discussion and it was about 2 months ago.

Has anyone used AVIA or DVE to setup a HLR5067W? If so are you willing to share your settings?

If several people could post their settings that would give the rest of us a good start point.

Thanks,
Tommy

Tommy, each set is different. There will be no universal settings that will look good on each set. A low cost and easy start for calibrating your TV is to use a DVD with THX. (I beleive all Star Wars and Disney Pixar DVD's have this) It should have a THX video setup program on it. The Avia or Digital Video Essentials disks are also available and are much more thorough.

You can get some basic ideas and starting points for calibrating your TV by reading a lot of the earlier posts in this very thread.

carl - thanks a lot, really helpful.

About the sound, I remember in my old sony, when I go to the menu, there was a specific setting for bass and treble and balance. I have to play with the equalizer to adjust those now? I don't really know what each bar of the equalizer does?



Each bar on the equalizer adjusts levels at each frequency range in Hz. To simplify for you, the higher frequencies are treble, and the lower ar bass. Turning the bars on the left higher will increase bass, turning the bars on the right higher will increase treble. Tune by ear for best results.

Is a slight humming (high pitched) noise from the rear of the television normal?

I got the spacers from ameriwood for my hlr5667. I read about them here and figured I should get them just in case. They seem to be too thick for my tv. Has anyone used them successfully ?

Yes, I have. The reason yours might appear thick is that the bottom part of your TV might already be bowing. Place them in the floating screen gap from behind as close to the middle part of the TV as possible.

Is a slight humming (high pitched) noise from the rear of the television normal?

Yes, it's the fan.

Where can I get these spacers? And where can I get one of those calibrating DVD's locally?

Where can I get these spacers? And where can I get one of those calibrating DVD's locally?

The TR46X3 stand is made for Samsung by Ameriwood Industries. Check with either Veronica or Christine in their service department. Or write them at:

Ameriwood Industries
305 East South First Street
Wright City, MO 63390

Google Digital Video Essentials for where to get their calibration DVD.

^ Are you talking about the stand or these spacers you put in the gap? I wanted to buy the spacers you put in the gap.

Yes, it's the fan.


I'm not sure its the fan. I hear the fan, but this noise is in addition to that. It's sometimes there and sometimes not. It like a high pitched electric current sound. Anyone else get this?

^ Are you talking about the stand or these spacers you put in the gap? I wanted to buy the spacers you put in the gap.

Yes, I was referring to the spacers. Ameriwood may not charge, but of course you'll have to ask.

Yesterday, I got a call from Ameriwood. They said they had a permanent fix for the TR46X3 stand. The spacers were a temporary measure. They will supply a new top section for the stand at no cost to current owners. It is coming from their manufacturer (in China I think), so it might be awhile before we see it. I may get the first one, as I was the first to complain about their current design.

They did ask which size set I had. This may indicate that the fix is specific, and does not use those inserts that widen the stand for the 50" and 56" models. No matter.

As I stated earlier, contact Veronica or Christine at ameriwood to order your new top section for the TR46X3.

I'm not sure its the fan. I hear the fan, but this noise is in addition to that. It's sometimes there and sometimes not. It like a high pitched electric current sound. Anyone else get this?

I hear the motor driving the color wheel as it starts. But as its pitch increases, the sound disappears (for me). Assuming the sound you hear is somehow tied to the speed of the wheel, it's no surprise I can no longer hear it at over 10,000 rpm. I'm getting old!

Guys,

I knew PC input would create black bars around the edges of my TV (I brought my HTPC and PS2 to the store and hooked it up before purchasing ;-). Anyway, I get approx. a 44" TV instead of a 46". Oh well.

However, it also happens on my PS2 when connected to AV2-GAME input. Never noticed it at the store, but I was mostly looking for game lag instead. So, my questions are:

1. Does anyone have a HTPC hooked up to a XX67 via HDMI or Component and if so, do you get black edges on L, R, and Top like with PC input? What is your video card and res set to?

2. Does anyone have Tivo or DirectTV DVR hooked up to their XX67? Do they make black edges as well? I'd could be tempted away from my HTPC if they do not have black bars like my PC input.

3. Can I get rid of the black bars on PS2 using the PS2 Component cables instead of the Composite?

thanks
bump

Could be, but the older you get the wiser you are. The TV is set up in a corner, so it could be that the walls are just ampliflying the color wheel sound and boucing it back to me. It's not bad.

Question: I'm getting my HD DVR and Digital Cable through TWC tomorrow. Should I hook it up through HDMI or through component and get a 720p or higher DVD player and hook it up to HDMI. If I get a 720p or higher DVD player, it won't work to its full potential unless connected via HDMI, correct?

How do i go about upgrading the firmware? Where do i find the firmware and how do i upload it? How do i find out what the latest firmware is? I am having problems with Comcast cable card and the signal is not the issue. I am thinking a firmware upgrade might help. Any one else have problems with stuttering picture quality with cable card? Everything works great through the set top box

Where did you get the cable card?

Where did you get the cable card?
i got it from Comcast Cable

You really need to compare component video to HDMI on the HD DVR/STB to see if there is enough difference to justify getting a HDMI switch. On some cable systems the answer would be yes, but on others the HDMI connection is pretty close to the component video PQ.

But, in terms of PQ, what has the edge? Component or HDMI?

i have comcast cable card. had problems for a while with it. card wouldnt tune in some channels, but box was fine.
comcast came to my house many times to get it right. gotta give them credit, they tried. it seems to be working now. they ended up replacing amp and cable outside the house

But, in terms of PQ, what has the edge? Component or HDMI?

It depends on which cable system you are using, which DVR/STB, and how well they implemented HDMI. On Comcast here in the Bay Area, HDMI is sharper.

Could be, but the older you get the wiser you are. The TV is set up in a corner, so it could be that the walls are just ampliflying the color wheel sound and boucing it back to me. It's not bad.

Question: I'm getting my HD DVR and Digital Cable through TWC tomorrow. Should I hook it up through HDMI or through component and get a 720p or higher DVD player and hook it up to HDMI. If I get a 720p or higher DVD player, it won't work to its full potential unless connected via HDMI, correct?

Hi Bioman... I have my HD-DVR Moto 6412 running component and my upconvert dvd running HDMI. This is just my personal choice however. The best advice anyone can give you is this:

Hook them both up both ways and see if you can tell a difference and use that as the basis for your decision.

Also, I have my Moto 6412 connected to my TV via firewire which also is a pure digital connection without analog conversion. If your box has an IEEE 1394 out I would get a cable to hook it up to your TV and use the D-Net option the TV has.

Hi Bioman... I have my HD-DVR Moto 6412 running component and my upconvert dvd running HDMI. This is just my personal choice however. The best advice anyone can give you is this:

Hook them both up both ways and see if you can tell a difference and use that as the basis for your decision.

Also, I have my Moto 6412 connected to my TV via firewire which also is a pure digital connection without analog conversion. If your box has an IEEE 1394 out I would get a cable to hook it up to your TV and use the D-Net option the TV has.

Posi, Cool! Do you get a full screen using the D-Net option or do you get black bars on the edges of the display? Using the TV's PC input, my HTPC has these annoying edges, so I am thinking about using a different input if it will solve the problem. Any beta would be appreciated.

After reading the post about the Moto 64xx hooked up through 1394 I decided to give it a try w/ my 6400 and 5667W. I have the older Moto, the 80gig drive and single tuner so I didn't think it would work... low and behold I plugged in my 6pin to 4pin 1394 cable and there was picture... and audio. There was a couple milisecond delay between the TV speakers and my surround system, but it just produced a weird echo effect. That was the first time I've heard the TV speakers actually, they're not half bad for a TV.

Picture quality wise the 1394 seemed a little better than compared to my component signal, I am using Monster THX 1000 cables though, only the best (love the retail discount). There was a little less noise, most likely because there was no need to use the DAC in the cable box.

The D-Net menu is pretty slick, and interface is rather refined. I'm anxious to hook my MiniDV camcorder up to see if the TV can pass my video through to my cable box, that would be pretty neat, we'll see what happens.

Pretty cool technology though, neat feature to have on the TV.

~Lance

Posi, Cool! Do you get a full screen using the D-Net option or do you get black bars on the edges of the display? Using the TV's PC input, my HTPC has these annoying edges, so I am thinking about using a different input if it will solve the problem. Any beta would be appreciated.

I get full screen but I am not sure how it would react using an HTPC as I haven't tried one before.

After reading the post about the Moto 64xx hooked up through 1394 I decided to give it a try w/ my 6400 and 5667W. I have the older Moto, the 80gig drive and single tuner so I didn't think it would work... low and behold I plugged in my 6pin to 4pin 1394 cable and there was picture... and audio. There was a couple milisecond delay between the TV speakers and my surround system, but it just produced a weird echo effect. That was the first time I've heard the TV speakers actually, they're not half bad for a TV.

Picture quality wise the 1394 seemed a little better than compared to my component signal, I am using Monster THX 1000 cables though, only the best (love the retail discount). There was a little less noise, most likely because there was no need to use the DAC in the cable box.

The D-Net menu is pretty slick, and interface is rather refined. I'm anxious to hook my MiniDV camcorder up to see if the TV can pass my video through to my cable box, that would be pretty neat, we'll see what happens.

Pretty cool technology though, neat feature to have on the TV.

~Lance

Awesome Lance. I am glad my post prompted you into trying it out. Samsungs IEEE 1394 interface is great. It should also detect your mini dv. If you use D-Net and use the optical out from your TV instead of from the Moto it should clear up that audio delay to your receiver. Also, using D-net the TV will pass dolby digital 5.1 whereas using component the TV will only pass PCM.

The only problem with D-Net and the IEEE1394 output is it will not show the on-screen display from your cable box.

I did notice there is no on screen display, that is very odd. All it gives me the ability to do is record or channel up/down. It would be nice if D-Net could interface w/ the guide feature on the box, thus allowing the TV Guide on the the Samsung to function. Still haven't tried the camera yet, gotta find my AC adapter for it.

~Lance

I just bought a HL-R4266W yesterday and was watching "batman begins" and I noticed a lip sync issue. I am only playing it on two channel from my yamaha c750 dvd player through my yamaha rx-777 reciver.

After the movie i did notice I did not have the dvd player set to the correct screen geometry and was wondering if that could have caused it. Or could it be the lack of a center channel? I am new to this video thing and any insight would be great!!

Thanks

The Samsung HL-R series TVs have something in the order of 75 ms of processing delay of the video portion of the signal. It may vary, depending on what type of input signal it is processing to get to its native 720p. I've never gotten anyone at Samsung to put an actual number on it. My estimate was the result of experimentation.

There is a "Mickey Mouse" work-around, if you are not looking for surround sound. Run the analog L & R sound from your source (cable box, DVD player or satellite STB) to the TV's analog audio inputs. Then connect the TV's analog (or digital) audio outputs to your audio system. Apparently, Samsung's internal audio processing circuits put in a fixed delay to try and match the video delay. Most of the time, it comes out close enough. Except some upconverting DVD players will contribute even more video delay, and the above technique will still produce out-of-sync audio. My OPPO 971H player does this, but has an internal audio delay feature of its own. It helps, but its max amount is only 50 ms. That is enough for its delay contribution, but not enough for the TV's.

If you're going for perfectly matched 5.1 surround, you're in luck with your RX-777 audio system. I believe it has an adjustable audio delay feature in its Sound Menu. The RX-V1400 and 2400 have a 0-250 ms range and the HTR series Yamahas have a 0-160 ms range. Forget about looping the audio through the TV, and connect the optical or coax digital output of your source directly to your amp. Then, with any source but an upconverting DVD player, temporaily activate the TV's internal audio speakers. If you haven't yet messed with the amplifier audio delay, you'll get a horrendous echo when both internal and amplifier audios are turned up! Gradually increase the amplifier audio delay until the echo disappears. Voila!

If your DVD player contributes video delay and doesn't have its own audio delay, you'll likely need more than 75 ms of amplifier delay to match things up. But then of course you'll be overcompensated when you switch to other (non-delayed video) sources. For a happy medium, you might want to choose an amplifier delay setting that is somewhere between the perfect settings. Good luck and have fun.

how much vertical bending do most people see on these sets? I just received a 5067w from a warrently excange on a 5063w. I notice a veritcal bend on the tv. THe most noticable is when i am wathching in 4:3, the title bars are not straight. I do not remember seeing this on the 63w, but maybe i am just a little more anal now. Is there something i can do adjust this, or did i get a bad tv? Any help would be great!

-i haveb been reading and it seems like this is most likey do to the screen not laying flat. It simple fix is to take off the fron and losen the screws that are holding the scrren in, that way it can relax. Now i am wonding how to get the last couple of screws out to release the front. They are the ones that are not visible because of the island on the bottom.

Thanks,
-Brian

Ok then, I know I've read this here a ton of times, but surround sound works on my TV (46") HLR.

I have DVI from my Comcast Motorola coming into the TV (via HDMI input) for video, for audio I have component out from the Comcast box into the TV. From the TV I have optical audio out to my receiver (Panasonic). I get 5.1 output for TV shows via this setup.

Ok then, I know I've read this here a ton of times, but surround sound works on my TV (46") HLR.

I have DVI from my Comcast Motorola coming into the TV (via HDMI input) for video, for audio I have component out from the Comcast box into the TV. From the TV I have optical audio out to my receiver (Panasonic). I get 5.1 output for TV shows via this setup.
I think you meant that you have connected RCA cables from the Motorola to the DVI audio inputs on the TV, but that is only two channel. Your receiver is generating surround sound from the two channel audio being sent from the TV. It can sound pretty good, but will generally lack the impact of the original 5.1 sound track.

Ok then, I know I've read this here a ton of times, but surround sound works on my TV (46") HLR.

I have DVI from my Comcast Motorola coming into the TV (via HDMI input) for video, for audio I have component out from the Comcast box into the TV. From the TV I have optical audio out to my receiver (Panasonic). I get 5.1 output for TV shows via this setup.

I'm not sure which Comcast Motorola box you have. But if it's the DCT2000 series, it has only analog (L & R) stereo outputs. That's DD 2.0, not DD 5.1. The TV will NOT accept digital coax or optical inputs from cable or satellite STBs. Note that the DCT2000 doesn't have either a digital coax or optical output. However, you WILL get audio out of the HLR's optical output when connected to your Panasonic receiver, as you've described; but it will be 2-channel, not 5.1. It'll sound nice, but it's not surround.

The TV's digital audio output WILL give you 5.1 surround sound if the antenna-delivered over-the-air signal it is tuned to is broadcasting it. With just a cable connection, it is unlikely the box is delivering 5.1 sound from the cable company. But perhaps you have the next generation of Comcast Motorola boxes which do. If so, you MUST connect the audio directly to your HT receiver to get 5.1.

Hello all, I picked up my 5067 yesterday. So far I am pleased with the TV, I made the move from a regular RPT set to the DLP. I have a general question about my new set though. When I power down the TV the red standby/temp light comes on and stays on. Is it normal for this temp/stand by to stay on? Is this the off setting on the TV? I realize the fan comes on the cool the lamp, but I assumed the light would go off with time when the bulb cools, however it stays on.

Thanks!

Hello all, I picked up my 5067 yesterday. So far I am pleased with the TV, I made the move from a regular RPT set to the DLP. I have a general question about my new set though. When I power down the TV the red standby/temp light comes on and stays on. Is it normal for this temp/stand by to stay on? Is this the off setting on the TV? I realize the fan comes on the cool the lamp, but I assumed the light would go off with time when the bulb cools, however it stays on.

Thanks!

That's normal.

Found a good deal on the HLR5067W for the family room but I need advice!

This set will fit VERY snugly into my 46.75" (width) opening in my entertainment niche. There is plenty of room behind and above for ventilation but less than .25" on each side.

Is this going to be okay for ventilation?

I thought I read somewhere that it draws in air from the front and vents to the back (which would be okay for me if true).

Help, please.

Found a good deal on the HLR5067W for the family room but I need advice!

This set will fit VERY snugly into my 46.75" (width) opening in my entertainment niche. There is plenty of room behind and above for ventilation but less than .25" on each side.

Is this going to be okay for ventilation?

I thought I read somewhere that it draws in air from the front and vents to the back (which would be okay for me if true).

Help, please.

You will be fine. The only thing you may sacrifice with your space restriction is the volume/channel control and AV composite/s-video input #3 (both on the right side). Neither one of those I have ever used on my TV.

I also have vertical bending problem. As mentioned a few messages above, I can really notice when a 4:3 picture is displayed on the set. The side bars are not straight and it is pretty annoying.

Can this be fixed by going into the service menu to adjust geometry or should it be fixed by loosening screws?

I also have vertical bending problem. As mentioned a few messages above, I can really notice when a 4:3 picture is displayed on the set. The side bars are not straight and it is pretty annoying.

Can this be fixed by going into the service menu to adjust geometry or should it be fixed by loosening screws?

If you put a straightedge along the sidebars, the middle typically bows in. On my HL-R4667, the vertical screen height is 22 1/2 inches. The bow is less than 1/8 of an inch (approx 1%). If you find that annoying or have more of a bow, I'd suggest you contact Samsung service to see if anything can be done. Let us know what they say.
Carl

Has anyone messed with the geometry and overscan of these sets (specifically the HLR5067w). I just got mine last Saturday and when I did the calibrations from AVIA and DVE, both showed that the image is moved to the right of the screen by about an inch or two (more like two) and I'd like to get that centered better. I also looked and it appears the TVs overscan is close to about 10%, I'd like to shrink that down towards 2 - 4% if possible....

I'm guessing this can be done in the service menu since there's no features in the setup as to how to adjust the picture. I wish they would make these features easily accessable so people can adjust the image to how they want it (sort of like how all PC monitors you can work on it)... That would make life sooooo much easier.

As of right now, the TV (otherwise) is phenominal. Just watched MNF and it was amazing (though for me ESPNHD is the best HD channel I get, that picture is just utterly scary looking it's soo good). The rest of the HD channels all seem to have (at one degree or another) a crystallized effect (like watching MPEG compressions that just doesn't smooth things out -- maybe AA...I don't know, but it's different and not the TV when you turn on ESPNHD. They need to all get up to ESPNHD standards...as this was the best channel on my old 42" TV.

I haven't had any noticeable lip-synch issues to date going through Comcast HD box, nor through my PS2/DVD player. So I'm not sure if this next set they fixed something... or what?!?! But my PS2 plays fine on the TV... ??? At least I can adjust the audio if I need to, to compensate for any delay (thank goodness for Rotel in that respect).

Just thought you all might have ideas where/what in the service menu would allow for changing the picture... I'm hesitant to go into the service menu for fear of messing things up....but I know to write everything down before I change anything....aka digital camera pictures are a wonderful tool. :)

Thanks for your help!

Has anyone messed with the geometry and overscan of these sets (specifically the HLR5067w). I just got mine last Saturday and when I did the calibrations from AVIA and DVE, both showed that the image is moved to the right of the screen by about an inch or two (more like two) and I'd like to get that centered better. I also looked and it appears the TVs overscan is close to about 10%, I'd like to shrink that down towards 2 - 4% if possible....

I'm guessing this can be done in the service menu since there's no features in the setup as to how to adjust the picture. I wish they would make these features easily accessable so people can adjust the image to how they want it (sort of like how all PC monitors you can work on it)... That would make life sooooo much easier.

As of right now, the TV (otherwise) is phenominal. Just watched MNF and it was amazing (though for me ESPNHD is the best HD channel I get, that picture is just utterly scary looking it's soo good). The rest of the HD channels all seem to have (at one degree or another) a crystallized effect (like watching MPEG compressions that just doesn't smooth things out -- maybe AA...I don't know, but it's different and not the TV when you turn on ESPNHD. They need to all get up to ESPNHD standards...as this was the best channel on my old 42" TV.

I haven't had any noticeable lip-synch issues to date going through Comcast HD box, nor through my PS2/DVD player. So I'm not sure if this next set they fixed something... or what?!?! But my PS2 plays fine on the TV... ??? At least I can adjust the audio if I need to, to compensate for any delay (thank goodness for Rotel in that respect).

Just thought you all might have ideas where/what in the service menu would allow for changing the picture... I'm hesitant to go into the service menu for fear of messing things up....but I know to write everything down before I change anything....aka digital camera pictures are a wonderful tool. :)

Thanks for your help!

ESPN, ABC, and Fox all broadcast in 720p which is the native resolution of your set. This is most likely why ESPN looks best.

I haven't messed with the service menu on this set because my set was calibrated pretty well from the factory, but my Samsung CRT had all the geometry settings adjustable in the service menu. Like you said, write it down first just in case.

Is your cable box set to output 1080i or 720p? I changed my cable box (motorola dct6208) to 720p since the HLR****W does 720p, or do you people think letting the box output 1080i and the let the HLR****W convert to 720p is better?

If you put a straightedge along the sidebars, the middle typically bows in. On my HL-R4667, the vertical screen height is 22 1/2 inches. The bow is less than 1/8 of an inch (approx 1%). If you find that annoying or have more of a bow, I'd suggest you contact Samsung service to see if anything can be done. Let us know what they say.
Carl

Samsung's support site says if bowing is 1/4" or more, call for service.

Is your cable box set to output 1080i or 720p? I changed my cable box (motorola dct6208) to 720p since the HLR****W does 720p, or do you people think letting the box output 1080i and the let the HLR****W convert to 720p is better?

The problem with that is for the native 720 broadcasts such as ESPN, ABC, and Fox. If you set the cable box to do 1080i then it will upconvert the 720p broadcast to 1080i on your cable box. Then your TV will downconvert the 1080i back to 720p. That's 2 needless conversions which are bound to cause a loss in fidelity. I have the 3rd generation Motorola DVR and have it set to 720p. I'm sure the best thing would be to let the TV do all the converting but unfortunately there is no "pass-through" choice in the cable box menu.

On the other hand, you could change your cable box settings from 1080i to 720p based on which channel you're gonna be watching. This would be a big pain in the ass though. However, if you were having a Super Bowl party and the game was being shown on CBS (1080i) and you have a 720p native resolution set then it might make sense to go ahead and change your cable box setting to 1080i and let your TV do the converting because you're only going to be watching one specific thing.

--The Dan

Is your cable box set to output 1080i or 720p? I changed my cable box (motorola dct6208) to 720p since the HLR****W does 720p, or do you people think letting the box output 1080i and the let the HLR****W convert to 720p is better?

How do you change this on the motorolla boxes?

How do you change this on the motorolla boxes?

I personally have mine set to 720p since outputting at 1080i and letting the TV do the scaling creates audio delay. To change the settings on the moto boxes:

Turn the box off.
Then hit menu.

Note: have a DVR cable box you cannot access the menu while recording or watching a DVR recording.

Haven't seen anyone with this problem but it is happening to me over and over. I have sent it in to Samsung support and have not heard back from them. Has anyone else had this problem and if so do you know a way to fix it?

PROBLEM: :mad:
When watching the picture will freeze up and the sound will continue for about 30-40 seconds and then it will go black(with sound sometimes) and then it will go completely out (no sound) and then picture and sound comes back and it is fine again for and the it repeats. This happens more frequently the longer the TV is on. It happens on all inputs I am using including OTA HD, SD Satellite into S-video 1, and a progressive DVD player into Component Video 1. After a few hours of watching it becomes unbearable to watch it happens so frequently. Thanks for your assitance

I personally have mine set to 720p since outputting at 1080i and letting the TV do the scaling creates audio delay. To change the settings on the moto boxes:

Turn the box off.
Then hit menu.

Note: have a DVR cable box you cannot access the menu while recording or watching a DVR recording.

I set my S8300 box to ouput 720P only, then I realized that non-HD content would be letterboxed. I can't seem to figure out a way to stretch non-content while outputting 720P.
......any ideas or something I might be missing?

Haven't seen anyone with this problem but it is happening to me over and over. I have sent it in to Samsung support and have not heard back from them. Has anyone else had this problem and if so do you know a way to fix it?

PROBLEM: :mad:
When watching the picture will freeze up and the sound will continue for about 30-40 seconds and then it will go black(with sound sometimes) and then it will go completely out (no sound) and then picture and sound comes back and it is fine again for and the it repeats. This happens more frequently the longer the TV is on. It happens on all inputs I am using including OTA HD, SD Satellite into S-video 1, and a progressive DVD player into Component Video 1. After a few hours of watching it becomes unbearable to watch it happens so frequently. Thanks for your assitance

I had this happen once to me, when the sound cut out I heard a quiet 'click' from the tuner, just like the first time I switch to the tuner from the HDMI input, it was almost like the tuner reset itself. However this has only happened to me once when I was watching a digital channel which is somehow an OnDemand program that someone else in my building is watching. Those channels are quirky to begin with, sometimes they dont' tune in when going up, but they do coming down to them. This is the only time this ever happened to me though, sorry I can't be of more help.

Also could it be an overheating protection that is kicking in and turning off the lamp? Does the 'TEMP' light flash, or any of the other lights on the front power button?


I set my S8300 box to ouput 720P only, then I realized that non-HD content would be letterboxed. I can't seem to figure out a way to stretch non-content while outputting 720P.
......any ideas or something I might be missing?


How about setting the 4:3 override to 'stretch'? At least I think that is what the setting is, i never go into that menu since my setup works. This basically takes non-HD(4:3) content and stretches it to 16:9. This does cause some distortion, but I've gotten used to it. All the network feeds I can just go to the HD feed if I want unstretched 4:3 anyway.

Also could it be an overheating protection that is kicking in and turning off the lamp? Does the 'TEMP' light flash, or any of the other lights on the front power button?

The 'TEMP' light flashes while the TV turns on, but stops as soon as a picture shows up. Samsung is sending a Tech out tomorrow so we'll see what they say. Unfortunately that means I'm going to have to go out to watch the Pats on MNF in HD.

I have had my HLR-5067 and have experienced problems with rainbowing or artifacting or whatever its called that are exactley like the pictures MCARLSON shows in post #1176. I have tried using a AVIA disc and setting the mode to MOVIE to set the GAMMA to zero. I am at my wits end. Ihave the problem with DVD's using a SAMSUNG HD850 through a HDMI connection. I also experience the problem with any cable programing with the exception of the HD material.

How about setting the 4:3 override to 'stretch'? At least I think that is what the setting is, i never go into that menu since my setup works. This basically takes non-HD(4:3) content and stretches it to 16:9. This does cause some distortion, but I've gotten used to it. All the network feeds I can just go to the HD feed if I want unstretched 4:3 anyway.

Well, I can't seem to find this over ride setting. Any tips as to where I might find it?

It's on the Moto 6412 boxes, i don't have any experience with the SA boxes. Check in the HDTV hardware section, there is a big thread on the SA 8300.

Samsung has good customer service. They are giving me a full refund on my HLR-6167w because of the video game delay and the bending of the floating screen. I would call them and just demand you a refund from them and they should take care of you.

Finally after replacing the DMD board, its working good. Colors and picture seem to be better on this new one compared to the old one.

I'm thinking of heading to Best Buy to pick one of these up today, but I don't know if it will fit through the hatch back of my car. Could someone measure the box these things come in for me and report back on the dimensions?

I have a HLR5067 and also have a Samsung VCR/DVD player combo and can not get the TV remote to work the VCR/DVD player modle V3500. Any ideas ? the remotes look the same and i have tryed all of the codes listed in the TV's manual

Finally after replacing the DMD board, its working good. Colors and picture seem to be better on this new one compared to the old one.
I also had the DMD board replaced.

I purchased the HLR4667W in October and it had a Sept. '05 build date. The set powered on fine the first time, but subsequently would display either vertical black & white bars without sound or a blank screen with sound. Unplugging/replugging the power cord reset it, but it was a real pain to unplug/replug every time I turned the set on. I called Samsung and a local tech came out the same day. The DMD board needed to be ordered, and he was back in 2 days to replace it. The 4667 has been working great ever since (3 weeks now) and I'm very happy with the purchase.

I'd like to send a very big thank you to all that post here. I've been reading through this thread little by little over the past week or two and the information is just fantastic! Youse guys are the best!

I'm thinking of heading to Best Buy to pick one of these up today, but I don't know if it will fit through the hatch back of my car. Could someone measure the box these things come in for me and report back on the dimensions?
I still have the box for the 4667. It's 47W x 37H x 18D.

Perhaps someone can help me. I am thinking about buying the 5067. Can anyone tell me a really good reason why I should wait for the 1080P capable models to come down in price or the 720P 5067 is "good enough"? Thanks for the help and be gentle this is my first post. Thanks!

For all you Samsung owners you might want to take a look here;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=602499

I have a 5067 myself. bought it the first week it came out.
it is a good set and more than capable of anything you care to throw at it for the next year or so, mainly until 1080p HDMI is readily available. The 1080p sets are nice, but you can only do so much with the source material. at 50" 1080 and 720 aren't going to be too different unless you put them side by side. (maybe 'even if you put them side by side', depending on viewing distance and acuity)

Is it worth the premium? that's really up to you.
Am I glad I got a 5067 instead of the 1080p sets? yeah, because I can do more with the $1000 odd I saved now. :)

Perhaps someone can help me. I am thinking about buying the 5067. Can anyone tell me a really good reason why I should wait for the 1080P capable models to come down in price or the 720P 5067 is "good enough"? Thanks for the help and be gentle this is my first post. Thanks! Wouldn't see any reason to wait. 720p would look awsum on a 50" screen...it looks wounderful on my HL-R6167W with a cable tv HD feed. The 50" screen would pack the pixels closer together than on the 61" screen for an even sharper image.

Well my wife and I pulled the trigger and finally got the wide screen we'd been talking about for the past year. With GG closing we decided to take a look and see what they had and at what price. We were looking at the 5067 for quite some time, but I had my heart set on the 5078, but I could never find one to see how it looked. Beisdes the extra grand that it was going for made it a hard pill to swallow.

Gg had one left, the store demo and we decided to get it since the price was lower than we had see it anywhere else by a good margin.

We also picked up a Sammy progressive scan DVD recorder to go along with it. There was a woman who I guess had been there earlier looking at the 5067, but I actually bought it first. She cam back as I was checking out. Her loss. Though if she had really complained I would have gone fopr a 52" Mitsubiushi that looked nice as well.

Anyway, here are a couple of shots I took of the TV in it's new ome. We had to get a new ent. system to house it. The top speaker enclosures on the sides house a set of Energy e:Xl-15 speakers. Not pictured are the e:Xl-R rear speakers.

For the people that are looking for a shelf for the center speaker, I just got a link from my friends at APERION. I hope it helps. I am buying one tomorrow.

link (http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/productDetail.do?oid=121849&catOid=-12927&com.broadvision.session.new=Yes&BV_UseBVCookie=No)

Has anyone used AVIA or DVE to setup a HLR5067W? If so are you willing to share your settings?

If several people could post their settings that would give the rest of us a good start point.

Thanks,
Tommy

Ijust had Greg from LION AV do my HL-R5067W. Turned out setting were:

contrast 90
brightness 50
sharpness 50
color 45
temp warm 1

For the people that are looking for a shelf for the center speaker, I just got a link from my friends at APERION. I hope it helps. I am buying one tomorrow.

link (http://www.circuitcity.com/ccd/productDetail.do?oid=121849&catOid=-12927&com.broadvision.session.new=Yes&BV_UseBVCookie=No)

I would only use this if you have a very light center speaker. The plastic back of the 5067 is very thin and can't support much.

I would only use this if you have a very light center speaker. The plastic back of the 5067 is very thin and can't support much.

I agree. I have a Cambridge Sound Works MC-150 center channel speaker (6.5 lbs.) attached to the top of my HL-R4667 with Velcro, and it's quite sturdy. But for anything heavier, it would be a problem.

On a side issue, for those looking for a permanent fix for the bowing produced by the TR46X3 stand, there is one. Check out my Post #1393 above.

Originally Posted by bioman35
Where can I get these spacers? And where can I get one of those calibrating DVD's locally?



The TR46X3 stand is made for Samsung by Ameriwood Industries. Check with either Veronica or Christine in their service department. Or write them at:

Ameriwood Industries
305 East South First Street
Wright City, MO 63390

These blocks are free to those who have bought the TR46x3 stand all you have to do is contact Ameriwood at the above address they will send them out for you. They will also discuss any questions you may have about the stand.

I have the Samsung HLR 5067W and added the RCA high def. hard drive recorder 160GB for OTA recording. It appears to work well with the TV. I dont' have it all figured out yet. For more info. see the post in the High Def recorder thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=603953)

UCSB, what are you setting for the tv? Contrast, Sharpness, etc.

Also, what stand are you using?
I just had my HL-R5067W calibrated by Greg at LION AV. The setting were:

CONTRAST 90
BRIGHTNESS 50
SHARPNESS 50
COLOR 45
HUE 50

TEMP WARM 1

JIM

Could be, but the older you get the wiser you are. The TV is set up in a corner, so it could be that the walls are just ampliflying the color wheel sound and boucing it back to me. It's not bad.

Question: I'm getting my HD DVR and Digital Cable through TWC tomorrow. Should I hook it up through HDMI or through component and get a 720p or higher DVD player and hook it up to HDMI. If I get a 720p or higher DVD player, it won't work to its full potential unless connected via HDMI, correct?
I Have TWC with an 8300HD box. HDMI is way better for TV. I have a Samsung HD-950 DVD upconverting unit. There is a hack that allows 720P/1080i via component. I use it. It works the best.

Jim

Hello all, I picked up my 5067 yesterday. So far I am pleased with the TV, I made the move from a regular RPT set to the DLP. I have a general question about my new set though. When I power down the TV the red standby/temp light comes on and stays on. Is it normal for this temp/stand by to stay on? Is this the off setting on the TV? I realize the fan comes on the cool the lamp, but I assumed the light would go off with time when the bulb cools, however it stays on.

Thanks!
is normal :-)

hello all
Justed added digital cable to my tv using card slot. Any ideas how to hook up my VCR so I can record again

I would only use this if you have a very light center speaker. The plastic back of the 5067 is very thin and can't support much.


Oh boy, I just threw the box in the garbage. I guess a 20 lb. speaker is too much. I'll be going to Home Depot tomorrow to buy a shelf to install on the wall and place the speaker on the shelf.
Does the speaker have to be flush with the screen or can it be on top but behind it about 6 inches?

Hey I'm trying to decide between the 46inch Samsung 4667w DLP, the 42inch Samsung HLR4266W, or the 46inch Toshiba 46HM95 dlp.

The reason I'd like to compare the 42inch and 46inch is it seems the 42 inch doesnt have the fine pitch screen like the 46inch+ ones do. Does this make a big difference to PQ? I can't find any definate information anywhere (not even Samsungs website) as to what exactly this means and if its really a huge deal or not.

I would get the 46inch, but it seems bestbuy is not going to sell them anymore and I get an employee discount if i buy from there. There are some in stock at some stores but they are far away. Also itd be nice to save some money, plus I'm going away to college soon and in the meantine its just going in my bedroom. Would be nice to have the VGA input of the bigger models though =/

Last Q, if anyone knows how does the PQ of the Samsungs stack up against the Toshibas, specifically the 46hm95?

Thanks.

And those are probably the default settings. A calibrator (like Gregg or myself) do most of our work in the service mode so that the user controls can be left at their defaults whenever possible. Those settings are meaningless for people with sets other than your own (or one that has been similarly calibrated).

I just had my HL-R5067W calibrated by Greg at LION AV. The setting were:

CONTRAST 90
BRIGHTNESS 50
SHARPNESS 50
COLOR 45
HUE 50

TEMP WARM 1

JIM

I have a hlr4667w and I've noticed that the picture got a little dimmer over time. The set is only 2 months old and the TV is probably on about 8 hours a day for 5-6 days a week. When I turned it on the other day, I noticed that the pictures on the channels were not as bright as before. I can always tell, because when the TVGuide came on the screen, the colors are always vivid. They are dull at first, but then the screen warms up, and it gets bright. Now, they are dimmer(a little brighter than start-up, but not much), like your looking at it through a pair of light sun glasses. I don't know why. I haven't changed any of the settings or components. Is this normal? Could it be that the bulb needs to be replaced soon? Help! Thanks.

bump for my problem.

have a question re: 1394 port.

i have dell 700m laptop and r5067 tv, both of them have 1394 ports. Can I connect my dell to TV using it? Will the cable transfer picture and sound over one cable? I have tried connecting dell using VGA cable, but it always started off 800x600 resolution and could not get sound working.

thanks for any help :)

I have a hlr4667w and I've noticed that the picture got a little dimmer over time. The set is only 2 months old and the TV is probably on about 8 hours a day for 5-6 days a week. When I turned it on the other day, I noticed that the pictures on the channels were not as bright as before. I can always tell, because when the TVGuide came on the screen, the colors are always vivid. They are dull at first, but then the screen warms up, and it gets bright. Now, they are dimmer(a little brighter than start-up, but not much), like your looking at it through a pair of light sun glasses. I don't know why. I haven't changed any of the settings or components. Is this normal? Could it be that the bulb needs to be replaced soon? Help! Thanks.
Call Samsung at 1-800-Samsung ... they will fix the set for you.

Yes, bioman35, you need to make a service call. Mine did the same thing after 5 months, and 2 days after making the service call there was a loud snap! and the screen went black -- the lamp had exploded!

And now, my plea for help: I recently swapped out my cablebox for a cablecard on my HLR5067W. I can handle dealing with the awful TV Guide. However, what is really frustrating is that I haven't been able to label the analog channels. When I go into "menu" then "channel" the option to name the channel is greyed out. Any ideas why?

ilyacg,
I have hooked my hlr-5067W up, via firewire, to my computer. I was able to stream video (in high definition;) to my computer-can't remember if it streamed sound but I don't think so. I could not send info the other way (computer to tv). If you want to connect your computer to the tv and use the tv as a monitor you need to either hook the compter up using a VGA cable or hook it up using an HDMI cable (guessing your laptop won't have both but it likely has a vga cable).

Its not normal for the bulbs to dim until theyve been used for 6000+ hours right?

all -- we are about to pull the trigger on a hlr5667w.

here would be a list of its new friends (who are very much older than it)!

Samsung dvd-v5500 combo dvd/vcr
Pioneer VSX-451 AV Receiver (no surround -- just two main speakers)
SA8300 DVR -- Time Warner -- will upgrade to the HD version asap.

I do not foresee any more major upgrades to the setup until the kids are much older and our bank account is much larger.

~~~
Big question that I have gotten confused over the many posts on the issue.

Is there audio-sync problems?

Specifically, should I expect lag from the dvd/vcr? Let me tell you -- if there is, I will not need to see/hear it from the tv since my wife will most definitely point it out. Every day.

Thanks for your help!

Dr. Shrinker - What did they do when you called? What was wrong? Did they just replace the lamp?

Dr. Shrinker - What did they do when you called? What was wrong? Did they just replace the lamp?

It took a couple of days to get the technician to call back, but yes, they just replaced the lamp. He said that some lamps are just defective from the factory, although (unknown to him) we had had a major power fluctuation the day before things started to go bad -- the problem seemed to come immediately after that.

But your description -- "Like looking through sunglasses" was exactly right. And just to clarify, the lamp blew up after I called Samsung but before the tech came out. Took him just a couple of minutes, but then for some reason he had to reset the Cablecard, which took a while longer.

The picture is so bright now we actually have to turn down the brightness at night. Definitely call if you're still under warranty!

Also, does anyone have an answer for my question above? Why won't my HLR5067W let me label the analog channels?

It took a couple of days to get the technician to call back, but yes, they just replaced the lamp. He said that some lamps are just defective from the factory, although (unknown to him) we had had a major power fluctuation the day before things started to go bad -- the problem seemed to come immediately after that.

But your description -- "Like looking through sunglasses" was exactly right. And just to clarify, the lamp blew up after I called Samsung but before the tech came out. Took him just a couple of minutes, but then for some reason he had to reset the Cablecard, which took a while longer.

The picture is so bright now we actually have to turn down the brightness at night. Definitely call if you're still under warranty!

Also, does anyone have an answer for my question above? Why won't my HLR5067W let me label the analog channels?

My understanding is that unless you have an active antenna connected to either the air or cable TV connectors, the menu will gray out the channels category. It will also skip over any of the A/V input ports that are not in use.

I have my OTA antenna connected to my D* HD STB, as it is more sensitive to the weak signals I get at my location.

All - Following is an e-mail I sent to customer service on this stand and their response. Others may want to follow suit.....not sure how the fix will work...will have to see....Good to see at least they are trying:

"Good afternoon!!! I have a Samsung 5067W 50" DLP TV and the matching
stand (TR46X3), which I understand is made by you for Samsung. I have
heard that there are bowing issues with the TV due to the stand being
improperly built and that you provide "spacers" to remedy the issue.
What information do you need from me to get the spacers sent out?? If
you do not know what I am talking about, I have heard that either a
Veronica or Christine in the service dept. there have heard of this
issue. Please let me know if you need any further information from me
to send the spacers. Thank you."

Their reply:

"Good Morning Gary,
Thank you for your email. I have placed an order for you for a new top
that comes in three different sections. As they have just now come up
with a solution we are having to wait for the parts to be shipped to us
from over seas.
In the mean time I have put in the mail for you two blocks to help the
TV stand. You should receive the other parts sometime at the end of Dec.
or the beginning of Jan. If you have any questions please feel free to
email me."

GaryJ

All - Following is an e-mail I sent to customer service on this stand and their response. Others may want to follow suit.....not sure how the fix will work...will have to see....Good to see at least they are trying:

"Good afternoon!!! I have a Samsung 5067W 50" DLP TV and the matching
stand (TR46X3), which I understand is made by you for Samsung. I have
heard that there are bowing issues with the TV due to the stand being
improperly built and that you provide "spacers" to remedy the issue.
What information do you need from me to get the spacers sent out?? If
you do not know what I am talking about, I have heard that either a
Veronica or Christine in the service dept. there have heard of this
issue. Please let me know if you need any further information from me
to send the spacers. Thank you."

Their reply:

"Good Morning Gary,
Thank you for your email. I have placed an order for you for a new top
that comes in three different sections. As they have just now come up
with a solution we are having to wait for the parts to be shipped to us
from over seas.
In the mean time I have put in the mail for you two blocks to help the
TV stand. You should receive the other parts sometime at the end of Dec.
or the beginning of Jan. If you have any questions please feel free to
email me."

GaryJ

Great news. As I posted earlier, I got the same answer, and so it appears that everyone with the current design stand can request a replacement.
Carl

Carl:

Sorry, I should have searched....I was slightly taken aback that they would actually provide a new top....good work Ameriwood!!!

GaryJ

My understanding is that unless you have an active antenna connected to either the air or cable TV connectors, the menu will gray out the channels category. It will also skip over any of the A/V input ports that are not in use.

I have my OTA antenna connected to my D* HD STB, as it is more sensitive to the weak signals I get at my location.

I HAVE cable going into the connector, with a cablecard to descramble the digital channels. Is this just another way the cablecard makes life more difficult?

I took delivery on Saturday of my HL-R5067W, and so far I couldn't be (much) happier with it! It looks great with HD content, and not bad on SD IMO, as long as it's a digital signal. I have been very pleased with XBox gaming - the lag, such is it is, is so slight as to be unnoticeable to me, and it looks great.

I love the clean design.

The few bad points IMO:

- The remote is a little insubstantial (though not TOO bad).

- The built-in speakers are lame (though I am not using them anyway, so who cares?).

- The built-in ATSC tuner seems to lack sensitivity - my mother's Sony gets OTA digital signals much more easily (though this is probably largely a geographical issue).

I took delivery on Saturday of my HL-R5067W, and so far I couldn't be (much) happier with it! It looks great with HD content, and not bad on SD IMO, as long as it's a digital signal. I have been very pleased with XBox gaming - the lag, such is it is, is so slight as to be unnoticeable to me, and it looks great.

I love the clean design.

The few bad points IMO:

- The remote is a little insubstantial (though not TOO bad).

- The built-in speakers are lame (though I am not using them anyway, so who cares?).

- The built-in ATSC tuner seems to lack sensitivity - my mother's Sony gets OTA digital signals much more easily (though this is probably largely a geographical issue).

I agree with your comment about the OTA tuner. Although it is supposed to be the latest generation, the tuners in my Zenith SAT-HD520 and my Hughes HTL-HD blow it away when it comes to weak signal performance.

I just got a hlr4667w this past weekend and have noticed the very high pitched buzzing noise described a few pages back by bioman. It sounds more like an electric surging, if I get up close I can here the low pitched hum of the fan so I know it's not the fan. Right now I'm only noticing it when there is not other sound going on like right when I turn on the tv or during a very quiet point in a movie. I don't have my full surround sound installed yet so that will probably hide the noise a little bit, but if I was doing something on a computer or had a slide show going I can see how it would be noticeable. I consider myself to have fairly sensitve hearing and it is bugging me a bit right now.

bioman - Did this problem go away for you? Did you adjust to it and stop noticing it?

It has lessened. It definitely hasn't got worse. Sometimes when I turn on the television I can't even here it. Somedays, I can here a slight buzzing noise when I mute the volume. I think its the way the TV is positioned. It may be a augmented echo of the electricity running through the TV itself that I am hearing. Maybe everyone has the same issue, but don't hear or notice it. Just wait and see if it goes away in a couple weeks.

Well...GREAT NEWS for me. I was watching my dim screen today and I heard a loud pop and then my screen went blank. This TV is 2 months old!! I guess this means my bulb went out? I can't get a picture out of it at all. Not even sound. When I try to turn it on, it just makes the "on" sound and then turns back off. What do you guys think?

Well...GREAT NEWS for me. I was watching my dim screen today and I heard a loud pop and then my screen went blank. This TV is 2 months old!! I guess this means my bulb went out? I can't get a picture out of it at all. Not even sound. When I try to turn it on, it just makes the "on" sound and then turns back off. What do you guys think?

See my post above -- your lamp just blew.

I played the 360 on my 6167w for several hours yesterday. Simply awesome.

Thanks Dr. Shrinker. I totally missed your second response to my question. Was the TV hooked up through a surge protector of some sort? Mine isn't, its just connected to the wall jack. Should I be worried about this happening again or is it just a defective bulb?


Also, Can I get the spacers, if I don't have the Samsung stand?

According to the tech, some bulbs are defective and have an unnaturally short life. He didn't seem surprised at all. However, I've gotta believe our power surge was part of it (and yes, NOW we have it plugged into a surge protector).

On my issue, I finally received a response from Samsung that you CANT label the channels if you're using a cablecard. So there it is.

I too have been in a quandry as to whether to go with the 42"er or 46"er. I have seen a number of posts advising to go to the 46"er as it "has a finer screen." But I could never find the spec for this on the smaller set description. Today, I spoke with a service rep at Samsung and the young woman advised that yes, the dot pitch is "larger" on the 42: .175mm vs. 155mm on the 46. She told me as the screens get larger, the dot pitch becomes smaller.

I too have been in a quandry as to whether to go with the 42"er or 46"er. I have seen a number of posts advising to go to the 46"er as it "has a finer screen." But I could never find the spec for this on the smaller set description. Today, I spoke with a service rep at Samsung and the young woman advised that yes, the dot pitch is "larger" on the 42: .175mm vs. 155mm on the 46. She told me as the screens get larger, the dot pitch becomes smaller.

How is that possible? If they each have 1280 x 720 pixels, how can the pixels be smaller on a larger screen?

I'm not an engineer, but I don't think dot pitch = the number of pixels. I think it has to do with the intensity/density & clarity per pixel. But, I'll yield the floor to those who are more in the know. Thanks!

I too have been in a quandry as to whether to go with the 42"er or 46"er. I have seen a number of posts advising to go to the 46"er as it "has a finer screen." But I could never find the spec for this on the smaller set description. Today, I spoke with a service rep at Samsung and the young woman advised that yes, the dot pitch is "larger" on the 42: .175mm vs. 155mm on the 46. She told me as the screens get larger, the dot pitch becomes smaller.
I've seen both the 42" and 46" side-by-side a number of times ... if both sizes will work for you, just go with the 46". It looks noticably better (not to mention the other features it has that the 42" lacks). The larger pixel size creates a rough look on the 42", with uneven light distribution ... think gains of sand on a beach reflecting light in slightly different ways.

If you are unsure about what else is missing on the 42", the spec's are here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4954868#post4954868

How is that possible? If they each have 1280 x 720 pixels, how can the pixels be smaller on a larger screen?

It is possible, the 42" just looks rougher. I'm not sure the dot pitch in the screen equates to pixel density ... it is more like the finish on the screen rather than something mapped to each pixel.

I have an interesting situation and was wondering if anyone else experienced the same. I have a SA8300 connected my HLR4667W via HDMI. Sometimes when I turn the TV on I don't get picture or sound. If I disconnect/connect the HDMI cable from the SA8300 the picture & sound comes on.

I do need to note that I had an issue when I first purchased the HLR4667W (end of October) where the picture wouldn't appear or I'd see vertical black & white bars no matter which input was used. Unplugging/replugging the TV would temporarily fix the issue. I called Samsung tech support and the DMD board was replaced.

I don't know if my current HDMI issue is with the 4667W, the SA8300 or the HDMI cable itself. The issue doesn't seem to appear when using component, air or direct cable connection. Has anyone else experienced something like this? What was your solution?

I cannot get my HL-R5067W to work as a pc display. I have had the set for a week and have had best buy and circuit city try to use my laptop(new sony vaio w/NVIDIA 6400) with in store HLR5067w and have had no luck. Anybody else having problems?
Thanks in advance
Nate

bonanza - I've been using my HLR4667W as a PC display without issue (self-built HTPC). I have it connected via the VGA port. Are you connecting via VGA or S-Video? Can you connect the laptop to a regular PC monitor (CRT or LCD) and get it to work? Since you went to the stores did you try the laptop on other models and get it to work?

Hello all,

As you can tell by my post count I'm new to the forum and HD TV's for that matter. This past Friday I purchased a HL-R5667W Samsung DLP television for my Xbox 360 and my phillips DVD player :D . Yesterday while playing the game I notice flicker with the tv. It seems as if the game was playing at a faster frame rate than what the TV could handle. I figured that it just might be those composite cables that come with the Xbox that might be causing the lag in the game. Well later on that day I decided to watch Stealth on DVD using the Phillips player and again durning the middle of the movie the tv acted as if the it couldn't keep up with the DVD player :mad: . Now I'm starting to get worried because I'm really digging this TV and don't want to take it back, but I can't stand playing the game on it. My primary reason for buying this TV was for the game. So if anyone out there know of any settings I need to change or anything I need to buy in order to get this tv to work please let me know. I have my DVD player hooked up to component 1 and the Xbox on component 2. I also have DNR turned off, however with it on or off the tv still has this flickering issue. It set at 16:9 on both DVD and Xbox360. Please Please HELP!!!!! :o

bump.......

cause I need some serious help with this??????????

I cannot get my HL-R5067W to work as a pc display. I have had the set for a week and have had best buy and circuit city try to use my laptop(new sony vaio w/NVIDIA 6400) with in store HLR5067w and have had no luck. Anybody else having problems?
Thanks in advance
Nate

I just today set up my 5067w as a monitor. I have a homebuilt Athlon 64 machine with a crusty old ATI Radeon 9700. It is running Windows XP Pro SP2 It not only worked perfectly the first time, the computer recognized the TV and automatically set the display to 1280 x 720 @ 60Hz. All I had to do was have the TV automatically reset the display position (it was off slightly when I first configured it).

It sounds to me like you're either experiencing a driver problem or the computer requires you to take some affirmative step to configure it for an external display and/or widescreen out. The display is frankly a little blurry for all-around desktop use, but it's amazing for gaming (my 9700 can still run HL2 at 1280 x 720).

Has anyone had their HDMI input mysteriously stop working? When I first bought my 5067, I had my Moto6412 hooked up via HDMI, which worked fine... then after a CC rep upgraded my service, it mysteriously stopped working. I thought it was the tuner, so I switched it to component inputs until I could go get it replaced. Well, I never got it replaced but I bought a Sony NSP70H DVD player yesterday and tried to hook it up to the HDMI input. All I get is a "No Signal or Weak Signal" message.

Anyone have any ideas? I've tried different boot methods thinking it might be a HDCP handshake issue, but no matter what order I turn them on, I still get that message. At a loss here, so any help is greatly appreciated!

Has anyone had their HDMI input mysteriously stop working? When I first bought my 5067, I had my Moto6412 hooked up via HDMI, which worked fine... then after a CC rep upgraded my service, it mysteriously stopped working. I thought it was the tuner, so I switched it to component inputs until I could go get it replaced. Well, I never got it replaced but I bought a Sony NSP70H DVD player yesterday and tried to hook it up to the HDMI input. All I get is a "No Signal or Weak Signal" message.

Anyone have any ideas? I've tried different boot methods thinking it might be a HDCP handshake issue, but no matter what order I turn them on, I still get that message. At a loss here, so any help is greatly appreciated!

Ironically I'm having a somewhat similar problem...

I have the slightly older model (HLP5063W), but they are similar enough that I can post here. What happened was this... I had a Sony KDF60XS955 hooked up from my STB via an HDMI cable. Worked fine. Decided I didn't like the Sony, so returned it today and moved the Sammy back into the room. Hooked it up to the STB via the same HDMI cable... and all I can watch is HD broadcasts. Whenever I change the channel to an analog or digital cable channel, I get "No Signal" displayed. Thought maybe I screwed something up... so I just unplugged the HDMI, and plugged in components... and it works fine. So that eliminates the STB. So basically, something is screwey with the Sammy, but I can't figure it out... and the Sammy service reps were no help... so I'm not sure what to do. I didn't do anything fancy but switch out the TVs... so it makes no sense that this would be happening....

I think 46" will be the way to go for me. Went to BB today to take another look. They had a 50" (no 46"s) near to a Sony Grand Wega 42" KDFA10, and I got a little bit seduced by it (the Sony.) Am I cursed?

I have an interesting situation and was wondering if anyone else experienced the same. I have a SA8300 connected my HLR4667W via HDMI. Sometimes when I turn the TV on I don't get picture or sound. If I disconnect/connect the HDMI cable from the SA8300 the picture & sound comes on.

I do need to note that I had an issue when I first purchased the HLR4667W (end of October) where the picture wouldn't appear or I'd see vertical black & white bars no matter which input was used. Unplugging/replugging the TV would temporarily fix the issue. I called Samsung tech support and the DMD board was replaced.

I don't know if my current HDMI issue is with the 4667W, the SA8300 or the HDMI cable itself. The issue doesn't seem to appear when using component, air or direct cable connection. Has anyone else experienced something like this? What was your solution?

I have the same problem. Bought HLR 5667 in Aug 2005 and have the SA8300 cable box. Problem has been with me since day one. Cablevision (NYC) replaced box once. Samsung came out twice and replaced a "board" once. Still have problem with HDMI input. I does happen intermittantly. About once every 10 times we turn on the T.V. If you try later the HDMI input works. Or you have to unplugg/replugg the HDMI Cable. I haven't called Samsung support in a few months, I'm waiting for other users to experience. Now if we all call to complain hopefully Samsung and Scientific America will resolve this issue.

I don;t have any solutions, sorry

Let's start calling.

This is my first post, but I have been using the site for a while now. Great information, very informative.

My question:

I am leaning toward buying a Samsung HLR5067W. I have a Denon 2910 DVD player and a Yamaha RXV1500 receiver. I want to run the audio through the receiver.

Is there any disadvantage to running the DVD player (video) from the DVI out to the TV's HDMI/DVI in using an adapter and running the audio from the DVD player to the receiver via an optical cable.

Thank you for any help or advice. (and for all the previous time many of you have logged at the site - its a big help!)

I too have been in a quandry as to whether to go with the 42"er or 46"er. I have seen a number of posts advising to go to the 46"er as it "has a finer screen." But I could never find the spec for this on the smaller set description. Today, I spoke with a service rep at Samsung and the young woman advised that yes, the dot pitch is "larger" on the 42: .175mm vs. 155mm on the 46. She told me as the screens get larger, the dot pitch becomes smaller.

The 42" is technically not part of the HLRXX67 line as it is an HLR4266
In addition to the HD Ultra Fine Pitch, the 42" model is also missing the following features:

3D Y/C Digital Comb Filter
TV Guide
Firewire IEEE1394 (D-Link)
G-Link
PC D-Sub 15 Pin VGA Port
PC Audio In
Fully independent dual tuners.

This is my first post, but I have been using the site for a while now. Great information, very informative.

My question:

I am leaning toward buying a Samsung HLR5067W. I have a Denon 2910 DVD player and a Yamaha RXV1500 receiver. I want to run the audio through the receiver.

Is there any disadvantage to running the DVD player (video) from the DVI out to the TV's HDMI/DVI in using an adapter and running the audio from the DVD player to the receiver via an optical cable.

Thank you for any help or advice. (and for all the previous time many of you have logged at the site - its a big help!)

You might get a lip sync issue. Make sure your reciever is capable of delay.

If you read through all of the post, you will see that some people have come across this issue on their gaming systems. This is also evident in plasma TV's as well. I don't remember how they remedied the situation, but I am thinking one way would be hooking it through a a/v reciever.

1) Does anyone know if the HLR4667W is capable of upconversion?
2) What's the best DVD player to get for these DLP's? I was interested in the Samsung HD950.

I have the same problem. Bought HLR 5667 in Aug 2005 and have the SA8300 cable box. Problem has been with me since day one. Cablevision (NYC) replaced box once. Samsung came out twice and replaced a "board" once. Still have problem with HDMI input. I does happen intermittantly. About once every 10 times we turn on the T.V. If you try later the HDMI input works. Or you have to unplugg/replugg the HDMI Cable. I haven't called Samsung support in a few months, I'm waiting for other users to experience. Now if we all call to complain hopefully Samsung and Scientific America will resolve this issue.

I don;t have any solutions, sorry

Let's start calling.


I have a HLN model DLP with the 8300 hooked up to the HDMI. Never had a problem and going on 10 months now. Maybe it is somthing to do with the HLR's.

I have the same problem. Bought HLR 5667 in Aug 2005 and have the SA8300 cable box. Problem has been with me since day one. Cablevision (NYC) replaced box once. Samsung came out twice and replaced a "board" once. Still have problem with HDMI input. I does happen intermittantly. About once every 10 times we turn on the T.V. If you try later the HDMI input works. Or you have to unplugg/replugg the HDMI Cable. I haven't called Samsung support in a few months, I'm waiting for other users to experience. Now if we all call to complain hopefully Samsung and Scientific America will resolve this issue.

I don;t have any solutions, sorry

Let's start calling.
I plan on making a call to Samsung tech support about this issue. In the meantime I switched back to component and all is well in Samsung TV land. I don't notice any difference in picture quality between HDMI & component. HD is fantastic and SD looks like crap with either input. The HDMI issue still bothers me though, but it's kind of expected with a new technology that's not in wide use.

I just ordered the 5667 from TVA. I hope I made the right decision in picking this over the D-ILA.

I will find out in 3-5 business days! :)

1) Does anyone know if the HLR4667W is capable of upconversion?
2) What's the best DVD player to get for these DLP's? I was interested in the Samsung HD950.

I have read nothing but great things about the Panasonic DVD-S97-S. This is the model that I am going to pick up.

I have read nothing but great things about the Panasonic DVD-S97-S. This is the model that I am going to pick up.
Does the Panasonic D97S do up conversion over Component? I will most likely be using component cables.

I think it is only over HDMI, but I am not certain.

Does anyone know if the hlr5667w vga input uses dnie? I have heard that on the hlrxxx8w series (1080p), dnie is disabled for the vga input. I want to try the vga input with the xbox 360 to see if it eliminates the slight lag we are still getting with halo 2 (running it at 720p with the updates from xbox live). Thanks.

Robert

I see a lot of posts about lag from their xbox via component video. I, too, have lag issues on my xbox which seems to irritate visitors who aren't used to the lag. I saw a xbox360 accessory that would probably nullify the lag problem - a vga connector. As I understand it, the reason why there is lag is because the tv is converting signals through component video. If I were to connect the xbox straight to the pc connector on the TV, then there shouldn't be any lag. Is this correct thinking?

Anyway, I looked online for a vga connector that works with x-box and found one site (google x2vga - restrictions prevent me from posting urls for now) that makes vga boxes. Has anyone tried this? I would like to know if this works properly on the samsung DLPs before purchasing.

1) Does anyone know if the HLR4667W is capable of upconversion?
2) What's the best DVD player to get for these DLP's? I was interested in the Samsung HD950.

The TV already does upconversion. The scaler upconverts or downconverts all input to the native resolution of the television which is 720p. It has a Faroudja scaler which is one of the best scalers made. The HD950 uses a Zoran scaler which is inferior. You would be better off using your television's scaler. The only benefit of the HD950 would be the HDMI interface, however this TV does not support audio over HDMI so you would still have to run audio seperately which could cause sync issues.

If you really feel the need to get an upconverting DVD player, I would not suggest Samsung(and I have one). Check out the Oppo DV971H. I have read nothing but great things about it in the DVD forums here. It has the much better Faroudja scaler and many other features missing from the Samsung. I beleive they are priced about the same. The Oppo only has DVI output, but it comes with a DVI to HDMI cable. Since the TV wont pass audio through HDMI the whole benefit of HDMI is thown out the window anyway.

Your question is really a DVD player question so I will refer you to those forums so you can research on your own. Good Luck!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=423609

Thanks, I did a search there, but I just thought Samsung owners would know whats best for their sets. So, this HLRxx67W series cannot pass audio through HDMI?

I am using a SA8300HD STB and only an HDMI connection and I am getting sound from it. Maybe I am interpreting your question wrong.

I recently talked to a Samsung tech and he suggested setting all my players, STB, etc to output 720p, so the TV will take less time to convert and thus minimize any lip sycning issues, true?

Maybe I don't really need to get a upconverting player, since the TV already does this. Do upcoverting players provide a better picture on these DLP sets as opposed to regular dvd player?

Lastly, how does the Panny S97S compare to Sammy HD950 or Oppo DV971H?

Thanks guys, I learn something new everyday here.

Thanks, I did a search there, but I just thought Samsung owners would know whats best for their sets. So, this HLRxx67W series cannot pass audio through HDMI?

I am using a SA8300HD STB and only an HDMI connection and I am getting sound from it. Maybe I am interpreting your question wrong.

I recently talked to a Samsung tech and he suggested setting all my players, STB, etc to output 720p, so the TV will take less time to convert and thus minimize any lip sycning issues, true?

Maybe I don't really need to get a upconverting player, since the TV already does this. Do upcoverting players provide a better picture on these DLP sets as opposed to regular dvd player?

Thanks guys, I learn something new everyday here.

First question first. When I say the TV will not "pass" HDMI, it will not pass the audio through the digital optical output of the TV.

Second, if you are getting sync issues, yes, outputting to 720p will be the best way to fix that since the device will sync the audio to the output and ther delay used due to the TV's scaler will be bypassed. There is still question as to if DNie is causing the sync problems however and there is no way to bypass that.

Third, I don't really think you need an upconvert DVD. This TV line has an excellent scaler. I also read above that you plan to use component. Upconvert DVD players do not upconvert through component without hacking them. If you hack them they will but you are losing the benefit of true digital because the component outs will have to convert from digital to analog and then your TV will have to convert it back to digital which is where most loss occurs. If I were you, I would probably get a good 480 progressive scan player and see how that works for you. This would have component out and use your TV's scaler to upconvert and bypass the interlacer processes since it is receiving progressive.

Try a good 480p dvd player (use the money you save towards HDDVD or Blu-Ray when they come out) if you don't have sync issues I would go with that. You seriously wont see a better picture with an upconvert, however if you have sync issues, an upconvert would solve most of that.

Thanks Posi, I guess I read through your response too quickly.
1) Could you suggest a good 480p DVD player?
2) And a good 720p player, in case I come across the sync issues(other than the Oppo you suggested earlier)? You stated the Samsungs players suck, how are the Pannys?
3) If I understand this correctly, if the signal going to the TV is already 720p, then it will not internally convert again as opposed to any other type of signal going in? So the DVD scaler should be as good if not better than the TV's for the best PQ?
4) Does that mean my HD DVR STB(SA 8300HD), if connected via component, will not be true digital? It's currently connected via HDMI and I don't want to lose PQ if switching to Component.

Btw, if I was to use a upcoverting dvd player via component, yes, I would be hacking it. But the only dvd player I know that can do this is the Samsungs.

I'll chime in here, I have a 4667W with Oppo 971H. I am running the Oppo 971H through a Denon AVR-3806 via DVI/HDMI with optical (needed for DTS) into the AV unit and one HDMI to 4667W.

There is no doubt that 4667 has good scaling capabilities, however, the Oppo PQ conpaired to my 480P player is certainly noticeable. I put on one of the Load of the rings DVD last night and with the 971H set to 720P out, It looks as close to HD as I am going to get (without blue-ray). I do not have any lip-sync issues at all.

PQ and audio are is stunning, for $$ I don't think you will find a better value for a DVD player with these features. There's always the little tweaks in settings etc. but thats part of the fun. IMO, you first need to start with solid components and then adjust to way you like it.

bnw

I have an HD-950 with an HL-R5067W. Works fine. You can either use the HDMI connection, or there is a hack to upconvert the HD-950 via component. I can email it if you need it.

I have a 5067W and had audio sync issues with my old Sony 480p DVD player, so I upgraded to the Panasonic S97S.

I put the output on 720p and used the DVD player's audio delay and that got rid of the sync problem, and the picture looks great.

The player has different settings for different types of sets, but DLP isn't one of them, in my version at least. I think I set it to CRT projection to get what I thought was the best image, but I'd be interested to hear if anyone has other suggestions.

Does anyone know if the hlr5667w vga input uses dnie? I have heard that on the hlrxxx8w series (1080p), dnie is disabled for the vga input. I want to try the vga input with the xbox 360 to see if it eliminates the slight lag we are still getting with halo 2 (running it at 720p with the updates from xbox live). Thanks.

Robert

Yes, the vga has dnie on. You can turn dnr on and off but dnie is on.

I see a lot of posts about lag from their xbox via component video. I, too, have lag issues on my xbox which seems to irritate visitors who aren't used to the lag. I saw a xbox360 accessory that would probably nullify the lag problem - a vga connector. As I understand it, the reason why there is lag is because the tv is converting signals through component video. If I were to connect the xbox straight to the pc connector on the TV, then there shouldn't be any lag. Is this correct thinking?

Anyway, I looked online for a vga connector that works with x-box and found one site (google x2vga - restrictions prevent me from posting urls for now) that makes vga boxes. Has anyone tried this? I would like to know if this works properly on the samsung DLPs before purchasing.

Well I've found out that certian 360 games came without vsync support so your going to see image tearing from those games(i.e PDZ and Madden 06 for sure). I've tried the 360's vga on my 5667w last night and it slightly helped with the tearing. I don't know of any vga connectors for the original xbox.

If this was asked and answered, please forgive me. Very simply, does the HLR Service Menu have adjustments for overscan/underscan (picture size) and/or geometry adjustments to square up the display?

I think 46" will be the way to go for me. Went to BB today to take another look. They had a 50" (no 46"s) near to a Sony Grand Wega 42" KDFA10, and I got a little bit seduced by it (the Sony.) Am I cursed?


I am looking at the 46" samsung or the 42" sony i have not seen the two side by side...tell em the difference....thnx

I have an HD-950 with an HL-R5067W. Works fine. You can either use the HDMI connection, or there is a hack to upconvert the HD-950 via component. I can email it if you need it.
Does the HD950 have audio delay?

Hi -

Just picked up a HLR-4667W, and (mostly) love it. We're seeing some unnatural texturing in some scenes, both from HDTV and DVD (both connected to the set with decent component cables). In bright scenes, everything looks fantastic. However, in darker scenes, or with dark clothing (especially with texture), it looks 'smeared' - overly 'digital,' or as if someone applied the 'oil painting' filter in Photoshop.

I've played with a number of settings, and can't quite seem to get it.

Does anyone else have optimal sets of picture settings for a HLR-4667W that they could post, so I could try them?

Regards,
Branden

Hmm...I'm getting some problems with dark scenes as well that I just noticed. When I am playing dvd's, though my xbox connected via monster components, and an all black or pretty dark scene comes up...I see these dark green vertical bars. Is this normal? Normal TV is ok. It's just on dvd's through my xbox.

Here is a picture of the problem. You can see on the left side green bars more clearly, but their through the entire picture. The black horizontal letterbox bars don't have them, so the problem is only limited to the incoming picture. Don't know whats wrong though.

Anyone know what version of the DLP chip is used in the 6167W?

Does the HD950 have audio delay?

No, but the Oppo 971 does.

Anyone know what version of the DLP chip is used in the 6167W?
All of the spec's can be found here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4954868#post4954868

If this was asked and answered, please forgive me. Very simply, does the HLR Service Menu have adjustments for overscan/underscan (picture size) and/or geometry adjustments to square up the display?

Also, any way to 'pan' the picture on the screen (per input). Looking at the Sony NS70 :rolleyes:

1) Is there a green push associated with these tv's?
2) Is the red "standby/temp" light on the front of the TV always on?

Overall is the Samsung 67W series worth investing in?

I found a good price for a 50" Samsung HL-R5067W, want to take the plunge on my first HDTV. Personally I like the Toshiba 52" slightly better but it's side speaker set up makes it too big for my space. I also like the JVC 52" HD-ILA but was reccomended DLP over LCoS until the latter becomes more established.

Should I go for the 50" sammy?

Thanks

Overall is the Samsung 67W series worth investing in?

I found a good price for a 50" Samsung HL-R5067W, want to take the plunge on my first HDTV. Personally I like the Toshiba 52" slightly better but it's side speaker set up makes it too big for my space. I also like the JVC 52" HD-ILA but was reccomended DLP over LCoS until the latter becomes more established.

Should I go for the 50" sammy?

Thanks

Hi mrconos, i just recently chose the HL-R5067W last week and recieved it over the weekend! So far i am very happy with the purchase (knock on wood!) haha. I looked at the JVC's and the one thing that concerned me was the black not being black problem. I also was alarmed at some of the problem reports in the owners thread so that scared me as well. Ofcourse the Samsungs have had their share of problems as well but I was also able to check them out at best buy and i thought the samsung was a bit cleaner with dvd material that they were piping into them. The major concerns i had with the samsung were the audio sync on external recievers and an issue with the stand that is recomended for the unit. I decided in the end that i liked the Samsung too much to pass on it. Like i said, so far i am thrilled with it and will be getting it calibrated in January.

1) Is there a green push associated with these tv's?
2) Is the red "standby/temp" light on the front of the TV always on?

(1) I haven't seen anything about green push with these TV's. I did plug in a dvd with component and got a green tinge on the screen but that was because the dvd was set to use its composite out. When i switched it to component, it was fine. Is there some kind of similar setting on your xbox?

(2) I just checked the samsung site, here is what it says:

"The standby LED lights when the power is turned off. It was designed this way to let you know the TV has in fact been powered off.

Here is a good example of why it was designed this way. If you're through watching a DVD and turn the power off for the DVD Player, the TV screen will appear blank while it is still in VIDEO MODE. Seeing the blank screen will make it appear as though you've turned the power off for the TV as well. However, the standby light will not be lit. This is the only indication that the power is still on. Hence, when you turn the power off, the standby light comes on, ensuring the power has been shut down.

Note: The standby LED can not be adjusted or turned off or on independently. It will always light when the TV is turned off and its brightness can not be changed."

Thanks kingd.

Does everyone have problems with the audio sync issues?

also, is there sync problems with x-boxes (the original, not 360) with this DLP series?

Ok I hope I can explain this right. I am watching a standard cable singal at 4:3. When I switch aspect ratios (4:3, Wide, Zoom1/2, Panoramic) I only get the option to switch between 4:3 and wide.

Theres more. I know a progressive signal is only supposed to give you these two options. The thing is this signal isnt progressive. Plus, when I am watching a 4:3 channel and I switch from 4:3 to Wide its on Wide when it looks normal, when I switch to 4:3 on the tv is squishes the pictures so the black bars on the right and left are almost double as thick. So a 4:3 signal works in Wide and not in 4:3? The 4:3 image in thsi state looks normal except that it looks like the black bars are slightly curved on the edges of the picture, and there is a line of fragmentation on the right side of the picture.

FINAL NOTE::

My friend has the same cable/amp/tv as me. He gets all the proper choices with his aspect ratios on the same station that I get only the two.

Please.. anyone with some insight? I think that somehow my tv is taking my cable signal and thinking it is all progressive?

mrconos: Based on what i've read, the sync issues only occur on external recievers. Samsung accounts for the video delay in the set so the TV's sound is usually fine. Also some people have found that when the dvd does the upconvert to 720p that the sync issues are not a problem. It's usually when the TV does the upconvert that the delay is introduced. Many people have recievers which can delay the audio enough to sync up with the TV but those that do not have had to either get an external delay component or not use an external reciever.

So far i've had no problem with audio sync while using the tv speakers. My reciever however did have the audio sync problem and is a bit older so doesn't have enough delay built into it to fix the problem. I actually haven't minded because the TV sounds pretty good in it's own right and i just use the subwoofer to get the low end and that seemed to work nicely. I do plan on getting an upconverting dvd player but if that don't help then I may end up getting either a new reciever or the felston audio delay box at some point.

I'm not familiar with the original x-box but some people report that playing games in progressive mode has helped reduce the lag to near unnoticable levels or at the very least to the point where it's manageable. I encourage you to check out the owners thread and skim through like 10 pages starting from the end to get the latest info about the set. I know i've seen plenty of posts about XBox's so just spend some time and skim through threads.

Thanks kingd.

Does everyone have problems with the audio sync issues?

also, is there sync problems with x-boxes (the original, not 360) with this DLP series?


I think I'm well-situated to answer your questions. I have an HL-R5067W, plugged into a HT receiver (in my case, a Kenwood VR-4090, which is too old to have delay built in), and play a lot of XBox games (at 480p).

I don't find the delay noticeable in gaming, DVDs, or watching shows on my cable STB. I don't doubt there may be some very slight delay present, but it isn't detectable even when I'm looking for it. I don't think this is wishful thinking - I'm still in the return period for my set, and could send it back if I felt this was an issue. I simply can't see it at all.

I think I'm well-situated to answer your questions. I have an HL-R5067W, plugged into a HT receiver (in my case, a Kenwood VR-4090, which is too old to have delay built in), and play a lot of XBox games (at 480p).

I don't find the delay noticeable in gaming, DVDs, or watching shows on my cable STB. I don't doubt there may be some very slight delay present, but it isn't detectable even when I'm looking for it. I don't think this is wishful thinking - I'm still in the return period for my set, and could send it back if I felt this was an issue. I simply can't see it at all.

Thanks for your thoughts Tee. I'm just curious about how you run your audio out to the reciever? I'm just asking because there are myriad of ways to connect to recievers and sometimes it's unclear how someone may have set up compared to another and that can make a difference.

Thanks for your thoughts Tee. I'm just curious about how you run your audio out to the reciever? I'm just asking because there are myriad of ways to connect to recievers and sometimes it's unclear how someone may have set up compared to another and that can make a difference.

I have a cable STB and XBox plugged into my two component slots, my upconverting Sony DVD player into the HDMI port, and my HTPC into the VGA port. All my sources output optical audio, and are plugged into my receiver. At some point I'll probably get a newer, HDMI-capable receiver, which will spare me having to switch the audio and video sources separately.

Thanks for the info Tee. I think the key is having an upconverting dvd player. From what i've heard from perusing this site and others is that if the dvd does the conversion, then you eliminate the lag that occurs when TV has to upconvert the signal. In my case, i have just a regular progressive player so the TV does the upconvert and thus the delay in video is introduced compared to the audio. I am planning on purchasing an upconverting dvd player by the end of the month and i will report on whether or not that helps the lag problem with my reciever. I'm not familiar with the Xbox too much which is why i've focused on the audio lag in my posts.

Could someone please PM me with the service codes menu information for HLR466w

TIA
bnw

Could someone please PM me with the service codes menu information for HLR466w

TIA
bnw


me too!

Thanks for the info Tee. I think the key is having an upconverting dvd player. From what i've heard from perusing this site and others is that if the dvd does the conversion, then you eliminate the lag that occurs when TV has to upconvert the signal. In my case, i have just a regular progressive player so the TV does the upconvert and thus the delay in video is introduced compared to the audio. I am planning on purchasing an upconverting dvd player by the end of the month and i will report on whether or not that helps the lag problem with my reciever. I'm not familiar with the Xbox too much which is why i've focused on the audio lag in my posts.

Just a note, (4266W here) I picked up a Sony NS70H player, and running 720p over the HDMI, I still do get a _slight_ audio lag. Only reason I even noticed was because the TV speakers were still up (HDMI had the audio signal, I'm running the coax digital to my Yamaha). It's not noticable at all in casual viewing.. I haven't said anything to the wife about it, and she never noticed after 3 movies.

Oddly, on the xbox, running component cables and using the 'GAME' input setting, I really don't see any noticable lag in Halo2/Rallisport/Splinter Cell. I did see it on s-vid though.

_JK_ : Thanks for the info! My reciever can do some delay, but not enough to make up the difference right now. I think i plan to get an Oppo so hopefully the delay will minimize enough so my reciever can sync up with it's built in delay.

_JK_ : Thanks for the info! My reciever can do some delay, but not enough to make up the difference right now. I think i plan to get an Oppo so hopefully the delay will minimize enough so my reciever can sync up with it's built in delay.

Let me know how you like the Oppo/HLR combo. I'd heard some rumbling about macroblocking with them, so that's why I went with the Sony. Which _does_ have "AV Sync", but only on the HDMI sound, not the coax/optical (?????). Of course, running the digital out from the TV doesn't get you DTS or even DD5.1. :mad:

I saw very noticeable audio lag when using a 480p DVD player, and through the cable box.

I was able to set the cable box to output only 720p, and that worked pretty well. As _JK_ said, if I have the volume up on both the TV and receiver, I can tell that the sync is a bit off as I can hear an echo.

I bought a Panasonic S-97S and set it to 720p, and also used its audio delay feature, set to maximum delay, and again it is close enough that I can only tell it's not perfectly sync'd if I turn the volume up on the set and hear the echo.

I am new to this forum but I really appreciate all of the info I have received so far.

I have pretty much decided to go with the Samsung HLR5667W over the JVC G886 (LCoS) based on more than a few factors.

Here is my dellima.

Cosco Home sold an HRL5667W 10 days ago to a customer who returned it to get the 61" model. They are putting out the returned one for sale at $1609.00!

This is a very tempting price especially enlight of Cosco's liberal return policy. It is not a "Final Sale".

Should I go for it? Or should I get a new one from my local wholesaler/dealer for $1955.00

Any thoughts?

I'll chime in here, I have a 4667W with Oppo 971H. I am running the Oppo 971H through a Denon AVR-3806 via DVI/HDMI with optical (needed for DTS) into the AV unit and one HDMI to 4667W.

There is no doubt that 4667 has good scaling capabilities, however, the Oppo PQ conpaired to my 480P player is certainly noticeable. I put on one of the Load of the rings DVD last night and with the 971H set to 720P out, It looks as close to HD as I am going to get (without blue-ray). I do not have any lip-sync issues at all.

PQ and audio are is stunning, for $$ I don't think you will find a better value for a DVD player with these features. There's always the little tweaks in settings etc. but thats part of the fun. IMO, you first need to start with solid components and then adjust to way you like it.

bnw

I too have an OPPO 971 playing into a 4667. There are lip sync issues, and when I questioned OPPO tech support about it, they said the 50 ms adjustable audio delay in the OPPO more than compensates for the time it takes to upconvert to either 720p or 1080i. However, my measurements on the 4667 by itself indicate that it delays the video on average 75 ms upconverting to its native 720p. It's internal audio circuits compensate for that, but if you want to use an external audio amp, it'll need to have some adjustable audio delay of its own. My Yamaha RX-V1400 has up to 260 ms available, so I'm good to go.
I also asked the OPPO service rep whether it was better to let the TV do the upconverting or set the OPPO to 720p. Predictably, he said the OPPO's upconverter was superior to the 4667's. I can't really see much of any difference,but maybe someone out there can comment.

I just got my HLR5067. I've read that watching 4:3 with the black bars can cause burn-in and that changing the colors of the black bars to grey can reduce the likelihood of burn in. Is that right? If so, how can I change the colors of the black bars? I can't seem to find an option for it.

my HL-R5067W comes Sunday, can't wait.

Need to call cox for HD serivce.. any one else have Cox on here? how is the digi cable on this set? how about the HD?

Also, do you have to use on of their HD boxes to get HD channels? or could use the cable card slot? I don't get what the benefit of having a built in HD tuner is if you have to use their box anyway (besides if you want to use antenna, but come on, it's the 21st century!)

finally, what kind of cables do you use to hook up your cable and dvd player? I am thinking hdmi for dig cable/hd and components for the xbox and dvd player. does anyone have reccomendations for certain brands/models of cables??

Thanks!

Okay, so I've read a little more and it sounds like DLPs are not susceptible to burn-in, is this correct? So I don't have to worry about watching things in 4:3?

I am new to this forum but I really appreciate all of the info I have received so far.

I have pretty much decided to go with the Samsung HLR5667W over the JVC G886 (LCoS) based on more than a few factors.

Here is my dellima.

Cosco Home sold an HRL5667W 10 days ago to a customer who returned it to get the 61" model. They are putting out the returned one for sale at $1609.00!

This is a very tempting price especially enlight of Cosco's liberal return policy. It is not a "Final Sale".

Should I go for it? Or should I get a new one from my local wholesaler/dealer for $1955.00

Any thoughts?



Well, that $1609 ship sailed! I spent a little too much time on the bubble I guess. No matter, I think I really want a BNIB unit anyway.

I have read in earlier postings on this thread about units arriving "dead" or with significant problems. I wonder if anyone has experienced anything like this recently or if it was just a bad batch.

Finally, I am still a little confused about the connection process. I'll wait to ask those questions when I take delivery of my 5667. Looking at the market I might be better off if I wait until just before or maybe even after Christmas.

Okay, so I've read a little more and it sounds like DLPs are not susceptible to burn-in, is this correct? So I don't have to worry about watching things in 4:3?

This is correct. No burn-in with DLP.

I have another newbie question. When I turn on my TV, it takes about 20 seconds for the picture to come on. I am using a motorola STB from comcast (I believe it's a 6412). Is this normal? Any ideas on how to fix it if not?

I thought I remembered seeing someone report the same problem on here, but I can't seem to find the thread again.

Any help would be appreciated.

I have another newbie question. When I turn on my TV, it takes about 20 seconds for the picture to come on. I am using a motorola STB from comcast (I believe it's a 6412). Is this normal? Any ideas on how to fix it if not?

I thought I remembered seeing someone report the same problem on here, but I can't seem to find the thread again.

Any help would be appreciated.

This isn't a problem. The set slowly powers up the bulb to extend its life. The set should come on but look dark, then slowly achieve full brightness within about 15-20 seconds.

Do NOT plug the TV's AC cord into a cable box or other switched source (I can't tell if your post implies that you are doing this), then use that switch to turn the TV off. Only use the TV's power button, which leaves the fan on for a minute or so after the set is turned off, to let the bulb slowly cool.

This isn't a problem. The set slowly powers up the bulb to extend its life. The set should come on but look dark, then slowly achieve full brightness within about 15-20 seconds.

Do NOT plug the TV's AC cord into a cable box or other switched source (I can't tell if your post implies that you are doing this), then use that switch to turn the TV off. Only use the TV's power button, which leaves the fan on for a minute or so after the set is turned off, to let the bulb slowly cool.

I'm not doing that, I have the TV's AC cord going directly to a surge protector and am connecting the TV to the STB using component cables. Good to hear that what I described is normal, I was a little worried that I had a problem with the set. Thanks for the input.

Just got a new HLR-5067W at Circuit City. Found and purchased a Panasonic S97 DVD player hooked up using supplied HDMI cable.

I put in Finding Nemo and I believe I see " macroblocking". Is anyone else here running this combo. Or is this something I can calibrate/ tune out. I have not done any calibration yet. My friend is going to let me borrow his AVIA calibration disc.

I might have to go the Sony upconverting 90 route. I really had high hopes for the Panasonic.

I see blocks of pixels here and there sometimes, and some of the lines appear a bit jagged.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks
FB2K

Long time lurker, first time poster.

I have had this model for about two months, and over the last couple weeks I've been trying to calibrate to the best of my ability with DVE. After reading through the thread, I've turned the gamma to zero in the service menu, which is from what I gathered, a popular tweak. I can change it back if the consensus is against it.

Anyway, I just can't find a happy medium with the DVE settings...primarily because I don't know where to begin. I'm getting very good red and blue with the filters, but green is way off. My major concern is how to set the color temperature. From what I read, you want "Warm 1" or "Warm 2", with the latter being preferred (at least off of CNET). When I shift to "Warm 2", everything looks too red!

I'm wondering what you guys have as your color temperature, which will at least give me the accuracy I THINK I want. Do you guys have the same color temperature for all your inputs (DVD, HD Cable, game systems)? Please help!

I also have a question about brightness and contrast. Do I calibrate for the below black bars on DVE no matter what, and then adjust contrast for the best gray ramp display? Or is there some other trick. Please help! Thanks!

Just got a new HLR-5067W at Circuit City. Found and purchased a Panasonic S97 DVD player hooked up using supplied HDMI cable.

I put in Finding Nemo and I believe I see " macroblocking". Is anyone else here running this combo. Or is this something I can calibrate/ tune out. I have not done any calibration yet. My friend is going to let me borrow his AVIA calibration disc.

I might have to go the Sony upconverting 90 route. I really had high hopes for the Panasonic.

I see blocks of pixels here and there sometimes, and some of the lines appear a bit jagged.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks
FB2K
You will see macroblocking on the S97 because of the video processing chip it uses ... unfortunately, it can not be calibrated out. I reviewed four upshifting DVD players in POST #4 of the Samsung 1080p thread. If you would like to get rid of the macroblocking by picking up a differerent player it is worth reading.

I got a Sony DVPNS70H specifically because I had heard macroblocking could be a problem with the Oppo and S77/S97. It's been good to me so far.

That said, the Samsung sets have a Faroudja upconverting chip, and it's not clear to me whether there's even any benefit to an upconverting DVD player, versus one that outputs 480p. Has anyone here experimented with both on an HLRxx67w?

Ditto here. I did notice a marked improvement over my prog-scan Samsung player, but the easiest test would be to just turn the Sony down to 480p and compare.

I got a Sony DVPNS70H specifically because I had heard macroblocking could be a problem with the Oppo and S77/S97. It's been good to me so far.

That said, the Samsung sets have a Faroudja upconverting chip, and it's not clear to me whether there's even any benefit to an upconverting DVD player, versus one that outputs 480p. Has anyone here experimented with both on an HLRxx67w?