Samsung HLRxx67W Owners Thread --- 720p DLP HDTV [Text View] - Page 7

Flyboy2000

12-14-05, 02:49 PM

UCSB

12-14-05, 03:01 PM

JohnnytheSkin

12-14-05, 05:21 PM

I have been asking about the color temperature settings and have yet to receive a response. Now that two are seeking, maybe we can get an answer.

Hi-Rez!

12-14-05, 09:03 PM

Greetings! This is obviously my first post.

I'm an owner of the HLR5067WX since 8-3-05 and I've read this entire thread. For those interested it took me a total of 5 hours and 22 minutes over several days.

First of all, my sincere thanks to all the informative members for your contributions to the forum. I've seen many excellent posts and have learned much from everyone's experiences.

The 67 is not my first DLP. I owned the P63 for over a year prior to obtaining my current model. As many of you could probably guess, I had my share of service calls with the 63. It was, however, a fabulous display. I've even had my 67 replaced once. The analog input board failed, but they replaced the light engine and DMD board before discovering the real problem. This caused the calibration to be so far off that a replacement was ordered. Some would think I should have learned my lesson and moved on to another brand, but I've read the threads from other brands and they all have their fair share of growing pains. The fact is that when it's set up properly, I haven't seen a better HD display. The detail is exceptional and the colors are spectacular. I think the 720P with an HD signal is unbeatable in the 50 inch size. Sat SD is acceptable from 10 feet even with the heavy compression, which I attribute the occasional macro-blocking to. I have found that the "Index" setting in the SM can correct some if not all of this condition. The much discussed A/V lag is very infrequent in my setup and can be overcome with the right audio equipment for those that are severely annoyed by it.

For anyone interested here is my setup and settings.

In the SM my "Index" is 58 and I left the "Gamma" on 2.
I use the "Standard" mode because I think "Movie" dulls my white level and looks too dark no matter how I adjust contrast or brightness. The "Movie" setting forces the "Warm 1" color tone, which may have better grey scale, but I don't care for it.
Contrast is 85.
Brightness is 45.
Sharpness is 20.
Color is 43.
Color Tone is "Normal".
In the Setup menu and "Color Weakness" my green is on 2 to reduce yellow push.
These settings were derived from a THX program and may not work for you.

I use component video cables from my H10.
I use a DVI to HDMI from my HD841 DVD.
I use optical audio connections from both devices straight to my Onkyo HT.
I have a third optical from the set for DD5.1 from the built-in ATSC tuner.
Yes, I prefer the set's ATSC tuner for off-air ED/HD networks rather than the H10.
I don't like distorted 4:3 formats, so, I keep the format setting on 16:9 Pillar Box.
The H10 is set to pass all resolution formats through for the set to scale.
It's my understanding that mpeg4 will roll out next year. They will swap us to the H20.
If anyone in Detroit is in the pilot test for H20 let us know how you like it.

Overall, I'm extremely pleased with my R67.
I have a spare lamp when the time comes.
I have a five year extended warranty. These are new inventions afterall.
I noticed that the Phillips lamp for the R67 is the vented square front model.
Yea, there's a hole right through the actual glass bulb. Bizarre!
The housing is an open design too. This should provide much better cooling for lamp life.

Best of luck to all.

JohnnytheSkin

12-14-05, 09:54 PM

In the SM my "Index" is 58 and I left the "Gamma" on 2.
I use the "Standard" mode because I think "Movie" dulls my white level and looks too dark no matter how I adjust contrast or brightness. The "Movie" setting forces the "Warm 1" color tone, which may have better grey scale, but I don't care for it.
Contrast is 85.
Brightness is 45.
Sharpness is 20.
Color is 43.
Color Tone is "Normal".
In the Setup menu and "Color Weakness" my green is on 2 to reduce yellow push.
These settings were derived from a THX program and may not work for you.

What exactly do the "Index" and "Gamma" settings do? I only changed my "Gamma" to zero because of earlier recommendations. I haven't changed it back but having just picked up "Sin City", I want the most accurate gray scale and color available...to make the picture "pop" off of the screen.

I really enjoy the set, but am wondering what I should do to get some accurate settings. I have DVE, and have messed with it, but I'm not sure if it's accurate or not (and I don't have a lightmeter or any tools). Are the Warm temperature settings more accurate? Does it matter? Should I change the "Gamma" or any other SM settings? My colors are pretty good, except that when I look through the green filter, I can see the whole color bar, with each block visible (it's not just black and a consistent shade of green). PLEASE HELP!

Hi-Rez!

12-14-05, 11:30 PM

Well...Im no expert!

In video, computer graphics and image processing, gamma represents a numerical
parameter that describes the nonlinearity of intensity reproduction.

Some say the gamma level backed off will increase the definition of dark scenes when other settings like contrast and brightness are properly calibrated. Another person on this forum either didn't see a difference or didn't see an improvement after making the adjustment. It's my feeling that the gamma or intensity was adjusted according to the efficiency characteristics of the light engine. (They are made the same, but they don't operate exactly the same.)

The "Index" will affect the picture and color in the same way a pc video graphics driver does when you switch from some low bit color rate to a higher setting like 32 bit or true color. If you drop the index value too far or raise it up too high you can cause macro-blocking of any input signal. There is a sweet spot. The factory either nailed it or missed it.

There are CCA color and white level values established in the DMD board that must be set to each individual light engine's characteristics. (Again, they are not all the same.) You cannot replace one component or the other without the data sheet with the specific values for the light engine in use unless, of course, you're one of those professional calibraters.

I don't think a novice should mess around in the SM too much beyond checking their lamp hours or resetting the hour meter. It's easy to mess something up that could void your warranty or cost money to correct. I'm inclined to believe that some critical adjustments are best left to the ISF calibration specialists.

JohnnytheSkin

12-15-05, 12:02 AM

Yeah...I'm not looking to dink around in my SM. I have an old 4:3 32" Wega that I think I did a bit too much tinkering with and now I can never be satisfied (tried to correct the bowing of the news tickers and some geometry problems).

I'll probably switch the "Gamma" back to the default of two over the next day or so. I have to calibrate my gaming input again since I'm getting a 360, so I might as well look at everything.

I think I've noticed the "macro blocking" on a few occasions, but I'm not sure. I was watching "Finding Nemo" with my son the other day and late in the movie I got a bit of a pixel blur with some jagged edges for a second or two...but nothing more. I also noticed it when I watched my DVR recording of "My Name Is Earl", especially on some of the flat fabric/wall scenes. I know that NBC is 1080i and I have my Motorola box outputting at 720p, so maybe that had something to do with it. Any help on this issue would be appreciated.

Can I get some help with the color temperature stuff as well? The DVE narrator says that I should go warm, but I feel I don't have crisp whites. I want an accurate picture, but an ISF calibration is currently out of the question since the guys servicing Boise don't work on DLP's (or so I've found up to this point). I probably can't get a guy until I move in six months to either Salt Lake or Cheyenne. Please help! I just want some DVE pointers specific to this model (like what should I set my sharpness to...with it at zero the score ticker is dull and a bit blurry).

Hi-Rez!

12-15-05, 12:53 AM

I don't own DVE, but THX, DVE, and Avia all do about the same basic thing. Maybe someone who has actually used the DVE disk could jump in and lend a comment.

Macro-blocking is very apparent. It looks like one inch squares moving around and turning off and on when the color is supposed to be gradual or constant in the background. It occurs mostly with backgrounds and video processed using mpeg2 compression. I don't see it all the time. It's not just a DLP thing either.

More than half the setup is very subjective, meaning that it's what a person prefers. Since you want "crisp whites" I would stay with "Standard" and "Normal Tone". The "Movie" mode and "Warm 1" setting would muddy it. These Samsungs look best with high contrast. I started at 100 and reduced it some to take the shiney white edge off. I know some people who like it at 100. The brightness has a lot to do with window and lamp light in the room. The more ambient light in the room the more bright level you need to pop the picture. If the bright goes up you will wash out color, so, it must come up with the brightness level, but not to the point of overdriving and bleeding. Those are the two settings that must be balanced. Set the brightness for the ambient room light first. Then, adjust the color for that brightness level. I have a brightness (55) and color (52) balance set for daytime in my "Custom" mode and night viewing (45 & 43) in my "Standard" mode. My contrast stays the same. I adjust color for natural tones of skin color, green grass, and blue sky. The tint will be disabled using component connections, but the "My Color Control" is active and the "Color Weakness" in the setup menu is also active. Play around until scenes look natural to you. Chances are good that you won't stray to far from default settings. The picture already looked amazing with the right HD source straight out of the box. A little tweak to your specific liking is all that's needed. Don't over-think the whole process. Only make adjustments with an HD program.

Hope this helps!

Flyboy2000

12-15-05, 01:02 AM

Thanks for the help guys, especially ucsb. I will try using the settings you recommended.
I really enjoy watching music DVD's like ' Eagles-Hell Freezes Over". And I notice the picture and the music are not properly sync-ed.
My Sony DVPNS90 will not do any syncing unless in HDMI. It seems the TV picture is a bit slower than the audio. Is the Service Menu, the way to fix this?

FB2K

UCSB

12-15-05, 03:10 AM

kris7565

12-15-05, 03:30 PM

Samsung HLR 5067W DLP
Sony DVPNS90H Upconverting DVD player
Cheap HDMI Cable ( until my BlueJeans cable gets here)
Yamaha RXV595a Receiver

I just purchased and have tried Calibrating the Sammy with the AVIA Home Theater DVD. I was very concerned with the "Color" Calibration because my "Finding Nemo" DVD looked less than stellar. Basically the problem I was having with it was , before I calibrated the TV the scenes in Finding Nemo where either Marlin/Nemo ( or any Orange colored fish) was swimming with the blue/water background, I would see a lighter blue " Halo" around the fish. Also in scenes where the fish was swimming in just a blue water/ocean scene, I could see what appears to be like a texture in the blue , different levels of blue.??
Using Avia , when I get to the Color Calibration section, my TV will not let me adjust " Tint". I guess Samsung has their pre-fabbed tints i.e.. Cool1, Cool2 , Normal, Warm1, Warm2 .
Is there any way to be able to adjust color and tint with these TV's?
I originally had a Panasonic S97 hooked up and the picture quality was very poor.i.e.. Jagged edges, and lots of pixelation ( Pre-Calibration).
I've only since Calibrated the tv with the Sony player. The sony seems a bit better match to this Samsung, but I'm still not thrilled with these " Color Issues".
Any suggestions? Especially how to set color/ tint. using AVIA.

Thanks,
FB2K

I have the HLR-5067W DLP set and a Sony DVP-NS3100ES DVD player. I have had nothing but complaints with the set (especially the color). The set never looked right to me out of the box. I had the color linearity issue mentioned earlier that was fixed by adjusting the index delay. But the colors still looked terrible. After calibrating with AVIA I realized how far my colors were off. With blue and green dialed in I had an extreme red deficiency (or blue and green were "hot" depending on how you want to look at it). On the color decoder check screen, I could get green and blue around 0 to +5%, but red would by off by more than -25%! My Hue/Tint was waaay off as well. My whites looked greenish blue, red looked terrible, the blue "Warning" screens at the beginning of some DVD's would just about blind you. Long story short, I found a post here called "HLR Calibration Made Easy" with a table of standard color values for HD and SD colorspace (I can't directly post the link because I don't have 5 posts yet). The post relates to the 1080p DLP's, but the same numbers still apply.

Here is the link to the post that I have made reference to above. Just paste the link into your browser and add the avsforum web address in front of it:

/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=578712&highlight=hlp

DO NOT GO INTO THE SM AND JUST PLUG THESE VALUES IN! I misinterpreted what these values are for, don't do this on your set, the only reason it made mine better, is that it was so far off to begin with. The values with D in front of them in the CCA(ON) menu are "desired" or target values. The others are measured. Only someone with the proper calibration equipment can dial in these colors correctly. It sounds like you won't get them right by simply plugging in the correct values. For more information on what I am talking about see the following two posts (add the avsforum address to the beginning):

/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5703567

/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5049306

The only complaint I still have about the set is that I have a lot of blotchiness/noise in solid colored objects (light or dark) and in the background. It occurs with all three dvd players I have tried on component or HDMI inputs and at every resolution. It doesn't quite look the same as macroblocking (besides I am not "supposed" to see mb with the DVP-NS3100ES, right?). Does anyone know what this is and how to fix it (new DMD Board)? Hopefully I am not breaking any rules by posting this, but it seems others have mentioned service menu fixes as well, so I think I am safe.

EDIT:I only changed the color values in the service menu under the CCA(ON) sub menu. If you alter the values in the Cinema CCA sub menu you will lose the "Movie" picture mode (which is still the best picture I can get). Changing the values in the CCA(ON) menu without changing the Cinema CCA menu still improved movie mode (my hue was off before in movie mode, now it is not). Another note, the CCA(ON) menu is specific to each input. The Cinema CCA menu is global (the same for all inputs).

Hi-Rez!

12-15-05, 07:23 PM

kris7565

12-16-05, 11:46 AM

Excellent post, kris!

Sounds like the "Index" in the SM needs to be revisited. If you can't dial out the blotchiness with that I'd PM one of the calibration guys on this thread. They might know a trick they could share. It's good that you've come along as far as you have.

I wonder how your CCA values got so out of sorts. I'd love to see that CCA standard values table. I'll look for it.

It is a different kind of "blotchiness" than what I saw with the index delay adjustment. It is actually looks like very faint splocthes that are flashing on and off and danicing around (looks like noise)? I see them in clear blue sky. On a bright white object (like the white stone interior castle walls in LOTR ROTK in chapter 25), these splotches actually take on a greenish hue. I must say that after I adjusted the colors (and the whites were improved) I don't notice them as much. Maybe it becomes less prominent with better grayscale? I don't notice them as much in movie mode as I do the other picture modes. Movie mode is the only setting I use.

Another interesting point: I can get the color and tint to be correct (according to AVIA) in any of the picture modes now. However, movie mode is the only one that looks right (improved grayscale?). If I use the custom picture mode set to warm1 I can get everything dialed in just as well, but the colors look A LOT DIFFERENT! Yellows almost look orange and blue is not as vibrant, yet when I use AVIA it tells me that saturation and hue are fine. I guess this goes to show how important grayscale is.

JIMMYJAMMA

12-16-05, 01:01 PM

Hi-Rez!

12-16-05, 01:41 PM

I found the CCA color settings zip file under a thread started by Bearcatmba.
Of course, I had to read the entire thread. Very interesting.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

After changing your values did you have to activate the "wbSpread"? I ask because I saw a technician do this when he swapped a light engine on a previous R67 I had.

UCSB

12-16-05, 04:38 PM

kris7565

12-16-05, 04:56 PM

To anyone who cares, I edited my posts on this thread (#1574 and #1576) due to bad/misinterpreted information on my part.

tee.edwards

12-16-05, 05:00 PM

Hi-Rez ... if you could stop using the yellow highligt, it would make your posts easier to read for people using the AVS white background. If you want to try AVS white, scroll down to the bottom of this page. There is a pull down menu on the left side of the screen and you can select AVS white. At any rate, FYI yellow is not readable.

Agreed, and it's too bad because Hi-Rez is making some really interesting and useful posts. For the time being, you can just select the text and it shows up as blue on white.

Hi-Rez!

12-16-05, 08:24 PM

Thanks guys!

I'll learn my way around, eventually.

UCSB

12-16-05, 08:33 PM

Thanks guys!

I'll learn my way around, eventually.
Thanks, I can read the navy blue just fine in AVS white .... but, I think the AVS dark people can't see it very well. Sometimes it is just better to use the default font colors.

Hi-Rez!

12-16-05, 08:43 PM

Yup!
Noticed that.

Thanks again, Bill.

stumacdo

12-18-05, 10:26 AM

Hi all,

Had my 5067 for @ 6 months and never used the TV Guide function due to my use of Tivo. However, I was playing yesterday with plugging my OTA directly into the set and activated the TV guide. Now my problem is that whenever I turn the TV on, it defaults to the TV Guide filling the screen. I can't seem to find the option where this is off. Could someone please help ?!?!? Thanks in advance.

Hi-Rez!

12-18-05, 06:03 PM

It's in the Guide menu.

Try menu, Guide, Setup, General Defaults and turn the "Auto Guide" to off.

hybris1

12-19-05, 02:14 AM

stumacdo

12-19-05, 08:29 AM

It's in the Guide menu.

Try menu, Guide, Setup, General Defaults and turn the "Auto Guide" to off.

Thanks - did the trick !

tee.edwards

12-19-05, 08:37 AM

I am sure this has been covered but I have been browsing this thread for over an hour. Some of my searches came up with discussion but no answers.

My HTPC is connected via DVI to HDMI and set to 720x1280. First there is the "lag" and second an "overscan" issue. Why am I not getting 1:1 pixel mapping and can I fix it?

Thanks.

You might want to try running it through VGA. My PC is hooked up to my HLR5067W by VGA, and I have no issue with overscan. The PC automatically detected the TV and set its resolution for 1280x720x60Hz. It looks perfect. There is a touch of lag, but it's not a significant problem for me.

carl033

12-19-05, 11:42 AM

Michael Stinson

12-19-05, 03:55 PM

After several days I have finally read this entire thread (up to this point). I purchased my hlr4667 when I was about half way through it and so far have not regretted my purchase. Prior to this DLP I had picked up the Panasonic ED plasma. Silly paranoia of burn in and remorse for HD pushed me into trying out the DLP. One day after trying out both TVs side by side I returned the plasma. To my eyes the HD picture was definitely superior. The SD channels (using DirectTV) are pretty much ok...as others have mentioned they can vary greatly. It is also great to not worry about what is being displayed (Again even if I was just being paranoid it is nice to not have that fear in the back of the mind)...or to not have to go through 200-1000 hours of break-in.

Anyway...to touch base on some of the issues:

No apparent game lag with PS2. Tried GTA3,4,5 with no issue...Tekken 4...Baldurs Gate DA2...Tony Hawks Underground. All of these seemed fine to me. Running the regular PS2 (composite) cable into AV1 with the game label set.

I don't have a DD5.0 receiver so right now I am pretty much running sound through the TV out the RCA cables. Only annoyance is having to go through the menu to turn on/off the internal mute. I did try running my DVD player out to component to the tv and rca cables for sound into the receiver and did not get any audio lag. Not sure if this is only an issue when dealing with digital audio. My DVD is a progressive JVC model...bought about a year or two ago.

I do see occasional blocking...particularly in dark scenes, but this is normally on SD stations. I was watching Flight of the Phoenix and in one scene it was so bad I was seeing actual block trails coming from the people moving across the scene. Thus far that was the worst and it was from a tivo recorded SD Cinemax broadcast (so far cinemax seems to look the worst out of my pay channels).

I also see rainbows pretty easily but they don't really bother me. At first they drove me kind of buggy so don't fret if you see them at first. Give yourself some time to adjust before making a decision. My wife doesn't seem them at all excepting white moving text.

For those of you that want to try out the Omni mount center shelf...if you use the vent holes in the shelf right in front of the main leg holes the shelf fits just fine. I do admit I am a little worried about this shelf after hearing some reports about how weak the casing is...but we will see. I have a very small sony center speaker so I am actually considering cutting the shelf down a little to make it lighter. I really like the way it works...almost invisible.

About the little stoppers to put under the 'floating' edges...you do NOT have to have bought the associated stand for them to send them to you. I called today and asked about them and they took my information w/o even asking me if I actually had the stand. I actually left the little foam blocks in as it seemed a dangerous concept so I was happy to hear that someone made a semi invisible version of this block. I had been considering coloring the white foam blocks black ;)

Anyway...I just wanted to thank everyone for their input to this thread. Although it definitely scared me at times (some of the issues really stink), in the end I feel I have learned a lot about this TV and have made the right choice.

neo_the_seventh

12-20-05, 03:57 PM

First of all, I would like to thank everyone on this forum for a wonderful information collection nowhere else have. I learned a lot from reading this forum which helped me with an informed purchase.

Now to the TV. I have setup my HLR6164 almost two weeks. I was upgrading from a 27" Sony tube. So this is my first HDTV, and my first RPTV.

Components and connections:
SA8300HD DVR -> TV: HDMI cable
SA8300HD DVR -> Receiver: Coaxial digital audio cable
Panasonic DVD -> TV: Component cable
Panasonic DVD -> Receiver: Optical digital audio cable
PC -> TV: DVI or VGA cable (future plan, not done yet :D)

Goodies:
I had done a lot of floor testing with my wife to make sure that both of us have the best experience. Samsung DLP is the clear winner since both of us get the 3D feeling from its HD image, which other brands does not have.

When the TV finally settles down in our family room, wow, it is HUGE. :)

HD programs are so great, we just love them even at the 2000:1 contrast ratio of the 6164 :p .

SD programs are way better than I thought. So the many stories about the Faraudja scaler is indeed true. :)

DVD movies, we feel like we are in the theater. I finally find the feelings I had for LOTR: Returns of the King again. BTW, I was not very picky about the sound, so the sound from 6164's speakers seem enough for me. I am starting to think if I really need the receiver in the picture. :rolleyes:

Checkers:
Lip sync: None. I am not a gamer, no PS or Xbox to worry about.

Fan noise: Nothing at the beginning. Now I can hear it if I stand right beside the TV when the fan is working. Does not seem to bother me when I am sitting in my couch. I will keep an eye on it. Not quite sure if I am going to make it an issue. I have been living with a PC with huge fan noise. :D

Macro block: None.

To summary, both my wife and myself love the TV. I just hope it keeps that way for the next 10 years (only purchased 5-year service package from BB :p).

Finally, special thanks to UCSB (Bill). I would not be enjoying the Samsung DLP TV without your effort on this forum.

neo

wp746911

12-20-05, 09:29 PM

(posted in other thread but only 1 reply so trying again)
well,
I have a samsung hlr-5067W and decided to look at my service menu-didn't even want to change anything just now-just curious. I was in the process of writing down my default values to be safe when somehow (wife distracting me...) I managed to hit set or reset or something in the "autocolor" menu under the "adv7402(M)" menu while in dvd component input...
so now my colors from my dvd component input are washed out (specifically the blues don't show well).

Fortunately, it didn't mess with any other input types other than the components 1 &2 so I can still route my dvd player via s-video or hdmi but...

*Banging head on wall*

Is there anyway to fix this? Should I even mess with trying to call samsung-will they just laugh in my face? Can this even be fixed-professionally or otherwise?? I tried running miscellaneous test patterns (thx, dve) and some will change the color patterns but none will fix it...any ideas??

If someone would, please post your sets setting for the adv7402(M) service menu setting with a component input. Also, are service menu changes "not covered by warranty" or "void the warranty"-big difference.

And please please never ever mess with autocolor!!!!!!

UCSB

12-20-05, 09:40 PM

Finally, special thanks to UCSB (Bill). I would not be enjoying the Samsung DLP TV without your effort on this forum.

neo
Thanks neo ... I'm glad you are enjoying the set.

wp746911

12-20-05, 09:58 PM

hmm,
well 20 minutes after my last post, I had written down some other SM defaults and was preparing to mess with the menu a little more before sucking it up and calling a service man-

wtf I have no idea what happened. Now everything is fine!?

On Sunday/Saturday I had fooled around in the service menu when I accidentally hit the "autocolor" option which made the blues all green using my component dvd inputs and I couldn't do ANYTHING to fix it-messed up on both component inputs-spent hours trying various settings within the setting with the autocolor. So I figured it was messed up and I unplugged the component inputs (from my tv and dvd player) and used my s-video cable for a while for my dvd player.

Today I decide to mess with it once more and then just call samsung. I had my dvd player on S-video, so I swapped my cables (while a veggie tales dvd was playing) and suddenly my blue colors were back to being blue (not green)?????!!!

I have NO idea what I did. Maybe somehow in all the swapping/unplugging of cables my component inputs reset themselves????? NO idea but glad things are o.k. again-

DO NOT EVERY F%^K with the autocolor option...and no more SM for me!

hybris1

12-21-05, 12:06 AM

You might want to try running it through VGA. My PC is hooked up to my HLR5067W by VGA, and I have no issue with overscan. The PC automatically detected the TV and set its resolution for 1280x720x60Hz. It looks perfect. There is a touch of lag, but it's not a significant problem for me.

I tried a VGA cable tonight with my Media Center. It had less overscan but still cut some of the image, mostly on the bottom. I also didn't get pixel to pixel mapping. No good. I want to use the DVI/HDMI cable anyway. There must be a way to get 1:1 pixel mapping with the digital cable. If it is scaling the video, it defeats the point of a digital connection. I was just thinking, is it not scaling but projecting an image that is bigger than the screen? Boy, what a pain. My Infocus projector plugged right in this media center via DVI with no issues. I may have to return this tv if I cant get the HTPC to connect properly. Too bad, my wife likes the built-in HD off air tuner.

Negativecreep0

12-21-05, 06:34 PM

UCSB

12-21-05, 06:51 PM

Going to purchase a Samsung DLP HLR5667w this weekend. Mind you I have never experienced owning a tv greater than 24" so big upgrade for me. I'm excited wooooo. My question is since this model is 720 and i can get it at best buy for 2699 is it worth spending 3999 for the newer HLR5678W 1080 model that just came out at tweeter? or is it a first gen 1080 and I should be careful? This tv will be mostly for my gaming center...

thanks
If this new HDTV is going to be used primarily for gaming, you should read carefully through this owners thread and understand the TV's limitations for gaming. There is a 1080p Owners thread, if you decide to step up to the 1080p model. Both have certain limitations on gaming performance. You might want to shop around for the best price on the 1080p and see if you can get the difference between the 720p and 1080p sets to about 20% or so. The 5678W may be $200 or $300 more than the 5668W ... so do your homework.

dabl

12-22-05, 03:12 PM

I'm trying to understand a behavior I'm seeing with my HL-R6167 and a 1:85 non-anamorphic widescreen 'letterbox' DVD, in this case a music DVD 'Rush In Rio'.

In 16:9 mode on the HL-R, the DVD appears with black bars on *both* the top/bottom as well as the sides of the HL-R6167 display and it seems that *either* of the zoom modes on the HL-R distort the aspect ratio of the picture (which I didn't expect for whatever reason) as well as the overall quality of the picture (which I did expect).

I'm using a Pioneer DV-563a DVD player set to output to a 16x9 TV in progressive scan mode, connected to the HL-R6167 via component cables.

I thought I read something in the Samsung manual indicating that I shouldn't be able to use the zoom or other (panoramic etc) modes while a progressive signal was being sent to the component ins but in this case I *can* choose any of the modes on the HL-R6167. I must be misunderstanding something about this as well......

I've read several educational aspect ratio related write ups including the below* indicating that non-anamorphic widescreen 'letterbox' DVDs will display with black bars on *both* the top/bottom as well as the sides of a 16x9 display as I'm seeing with my Rush in Rio example, however these write ups don't specifically address the *aspect ratio* of such discs, leading me to believe that such behavior will result *regardless* of the aspect ratio, and that *any* zooming will result in a distorted aspect ratio, which is indeed the behavior I'm seem to be seeing on the HL-R.

But something about this doesn't seem right to me. I can't understand why one of the zoom modes on the HL-R wouldn't simply increase the image of *some* particular aspect ratio with such a disc to fill most of the screen albeit decreasing the overall *quality* of the picture, which I understand cannot be made bigger without also decreasing the overall quality.

I had hoped/figured that one of the zooms on the HL-R would expand a 1:85 non-anamorphic disc to fill at least the sides of the screen and the other might possibly do the same for say a 2:35 non-anamorphic widescreen 'letterbox' disc etc, but that doesn't seem to be the case. I'm guessing that's because those zoom modes also need to be able to do something sensible with 4:3 material so that the zoom modes on the HL-R don't correctly stretch any particular aspect ratio? I found the HL-R manual entry on the zoom modes totally useless.

I guess I also don't understand the fundamental reason why a 1:85 widescreen 'letterbox' image doesn't fill the screen in 16:9 mode on my HL-R6171 regardless of whether it's anamorphic or not since the TV is natively pretty close to that aspect ratio (1:78). As I understand it, the anamorphic-ness of any given DVD should simply result in a significantly better *quality* image because of the extra info crammed into the top part of the image, distorting it, but which gets stretched out to normal on a 16:9 TV, but that the anamorphic-ness doesn't have an effect on the displayed aspect ratio. But again I must be misunderstnding something.

I mentioned all this to a friend who has a Hitachi RP-CRT 16x9 TV and he says he has non-anamorphic widescreen discs which display with black bars on *only* the top/bottom but not the sides so I wonder why I 'm not seeing the same on the HL-R etc. Perhaps he is using some zoom mode on either his TV or DVD player....

I haven't looked at the zoom modes on the Pioneer DV-563a player, perhaps one of them will do what I'm looking for (take the 1:85 non anamorphic widescreen 'letterbox' Rush in Rio DVD and make it fill to the sides of the screen but NOT distort the aspect ratio).

Thanks for any help in trying to make sense of any of this.

*
DVD Aspect Ratios
http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/Makeup/4303/dvdratios.html
...
On a Widescreen TV you have 3 options to watch a nonanamorphic letterboxed DVD.

You can watch it with black bars added to the side and a small image in the center of the scren

crop off the top and bottom of the image, giving you a low resolution image that's only 720x273 pixels

Streatched out to fill the screen, giving you an image where the girls at this Halloween party look short and fat.
...

The Bill Zone Editorial - The Big Squeeze: The ABCs of Anamorphic DVD
http://www.thedigitalbits.com/editorial/bz100298.html
...
On the flip side, DVDs that are not presented in anamorphic widescreen, but just regular letterboxed widescreen, will look terrible. That's because in order to have them fill the display on a 16x9 TV without the black bars, the TV will have to electronically magnify the image. Every flaw on the print will be enhanced, and the lack of resolution will become much more visible
...

Jaylucky

12-22-05, 03:20 PM

If this new HDTV is going to be used primarily for gaming, you should read carefully through this owners thread and understand the TV's limitations for gaming. There is a 1080p Owners thread, if you decide to step up to the 1080p model. Both have certain limitations on gaming performance. You might want to shop around for the best price on the 1080p and see if you can get the difference between the 720p and 1080p sets to about 20% or so. The 5678W may be $200 or $300 more than the 5668W ... so do your homework.

Another thing to remember also is that for "next gen" gaming, the Xbox 360 only outputs in 720p over component. There's no DVI/HDMI output option for the 360, nor, according to Microsoft, will there be in the near future. The PS3, however, which is slated for late Q4 of 2006, is supposed to output at 1080p over HDMI. Dual output too.

Basically it really depends on what system you're planning for. =) I bought my HLR5067W almost specifically for my 360 ( as well as DVD movies and HDTV ) and have not been dissapointed with gameplay yet.

dabl

12-23-05, 11:55 AM

I'm trying to understand a behavior I'm seeing with my HL-R6167 and a 1:85 non-anamorphic widescreen 'letterbox' DVD, in this case a music DVD 'Rush In Rio'.
...

As per the below, which if any of the the picture size modes on the HL-Rxx67 series increase the size of the picture by 33% horizontally and 33% vertically?

--Don

==

World's Easiest Explanation of Anamorphic 16:9 Widescreen Enhancement in DVDs
http://gregl.net/videophile/anamorphic.htm

Re: 16:9 set
...
If you watch a letterboxed movie on it, you'll see grey bars on the sides as well as the black bars on top and bottom....

Since this will obviously be a very common problem, widescreen television sets have a control that allows you to stretch the picture 33% horizontally and 33% vertically, enlarging the total picture area by 78%....

klemsaba

12-24-05, 01:47 AM

I just brought home a HLR-5067 and there are 3 blue dots scattered around the screen. If this was an LCD I would say they were stuck pixels. Is this caused by stuck mirrors?

My Panasonic 50LC13 went dark again and Best Buy let me trade it in. I never had any stuck pixels with my LCD.

Any thoughts? I did search through this thread but nothing really jumped out.

Thanks.

Pye in LA

12-24-05, 04:34 PM

And I'm also concerned about the screen bowing as referenced in this thread. :D

No, but serially...I'm loving my new HLR-4667W which is resting solidly on my entertainment center, well-supported for its entire length. Do I need to support the corners of my screen or is that only a concern for the larger sizes?

I'm having trouble finding earlier posts concerning remedies. Guidance?

AndreXboxer

12-24-05, 08:44 PM

raysranga

12-25-05, 03:14 PM

Hi All,

Merry Christmas!

I'm the proud new owner of the 56" 720p 5667W model since the past 2 days. Love the content. But I have this huge annoying problem, I please ask you Samsung HD gurus and owners to help me with. I have learnt to accept the bad quality of SD programming but HD programming is stunning for the most part except when I see a "digital-pixel-blur" which corrects itself quickly within a second and then its alright. I see this blur when there are fast moving scenes in sports and during transition between a "replay" back to "live" action. I have my component ports on the Comcast box connected to the component ports of the TV. Is there any setting I can choose to get rid of this blur or maybe go with the DVI port? It doesn't happen in movies and slow scenes, just in fast scenes like when I was watching the Hockey game in High-Def.. I don't see the "rainbow" effect per se because I don't see the color smudge, just the pixel blur. Any help is greatly appreciated. Otherwise I might just return it since its a bit annoying while watching sports. Thanks in advance.

Ray

midnightman

12-25-05, 08:34 PM

JohnnytheSkin

12-26-05, 08:31 PM

Hello All....I'm new to this site but really like the on hand information that I'm finding here. To everyone Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays. The question I have has to do with gaming on the Samsung Dlp sets. I am about to purchase the HLR5067w and was wondering if anyone has used a video game system on this set and its resulsts. Will the Dnie effet the picture for gaming, dvd, and HD viewing.

Thanks

I don't know about the DNIe setting, since on the 5067W it's always on (I think you can turn it off in the Service Menu).

As for gaming, the only game that I've noticed a problem on is "Dance Dance Revolution" for PS2. Due to the conversion of the 480i PS2 video signal to the TV's native 720p, there is noticeable delay (all of the "Excellent" steps become "Almost"). Since it's a timing game, the delay is very apparent. For all my other games, I've noticed no problem at all. I'm currently enjoying the native 720p Xbox 360 on the set and am loving the picture. I guess if you have a lot of timing games for PS2 then it might be a problem. Since the 360 outputs everything at 720p, there is no lag to speak of, even for the old Xbox games. I imagine that the PS3 will do something similar.

Hope this helps, and enjoy the TV!

*Another thing I forgot to mention is to be sure that the input that you are using for gaming (i.e. Component 1) is named "Game" using the "Edit Name" function in the TV menu. Samsung states that this helps with some of the lag by turning off the extraneous features. I'm not sure how much it helps, but I've had it set this way and the only games that are affected are the timing/rhythm games.*

kingd

12-27-05, 12:00 PM

willbrook

12-27-05, 01:13 PM

I intend to purchase the Samsung DLP despite my concerns about the the 'video lag' issue. It is my understanding that some DVD players have the capability to insert an 'audio lag' to minimize the 'lip synch' problem. I'd appreciate receiving recommendations of players that work best. Thanks - and have a safe and healthy New Year.

midnightman

12-27-05, 04:55 PM

Did you also connect the rca audio to the TV? I've noticed a large delay betweeb the two audio sources when done that way but when i just use my reciever only, it's not a problem. Can your dvd upconvert to 720p via component? The delay caused by converting to 720p by your TV can be offset some by using a dvd player that does the conversion. You could also purchase either an AV reciever with delay or get the felston box which adds delay.

As far as your dvd player, what kind do you have? It's possible your dvd player is not passing black and white properly or some other issue.
I’m using the Panasonic HTIB SC-HT900. This receiver does not allow me to set delay time and I don’t think its DVD player is very good either. As long as the contrast issue is not from the TV itself, I’ll be happy to upgrade the DVD player.

I also use the Philips DVP-642 to play PAL DVDs, for this one I have the delay issue as mentioned when I connect only the optical digital out to the SC-HT900 receiver (No, I do not connect the RCA audio to the TV). I used the same setup with my old CRT TV without problem, however.

kingd

12-27-05, 05:10 PM

Hmm, that's interesting because i happen to have the HL-R5067W and also have the Philips DVP-642 and the audio lag to the reciever is there if i really pay attention to it, otherwise it is fine. Have you set the Phillips to play in progressive mode (480P)? If not, that may help your situation some. I haven't tried PAL dvd's with it however.

As for as your HTIB dvd player, i would suggest checking out the dvd player threads and getting a new dvd player that can upconvert to 720p which is the native resolution of that Samsung. Keep in mind there are precious few players that can upconvert using Component cables and that the vast majority use DVI or HDMI.

kingd

12-27-05, 05:16 PM

willbrook: The Oppo has audio delay settings in it and there are some posts somewhere in pages 48-54 that it's enough to offset the lag. Keep in mind the Oppo is best used with its DVI input so if your not using your HDMI input on the TV then that's a good way to go.

midnightman

12-27-05, 05:33 PM

Yes, I tried both progressive on and off on the DVP-642. When progressive scan is off, it seems to be a little bit better. But I have a second thought about this issue though; it’s more like out-of-sync rather than delay. When I play some music videos (not Ashlee Simpson’s), sometimes the lip movement is correct, sometimes it’s not. So I doubt setting delay on audio would solve the problem.

kingd

12-27-05, 05:47 PM

midnightman: If it's not consistent then is it possible it's the source dvd? Are there any dvd's you have now that did play fine on the old CRT that you can try on the new one? Sometime's people take 1 or 2 situations and then think they have a problem without testing alot of different criteria so it's important to be thorough, not that you haven't been, just trying to help.

carl033

12-27-05, 06:35 PM

I just got the HL-R4667W TV for a week and noticed a few problems

a) I connect a DVD player to the component YPbPr input, but for audio I use digital optical out to the AV receiver. This set up causes a serious delay in video. I read about lag in video game but this, I did not expect at all.

b) The pictures in dark scenes look quite bad and lack of details, while the bright scenes look brilliant.

So, I tried to use the Sound & Vision Home Theater Tune-Up DVD (similar to AVIA tune-up disc) but got this problem:

On the very first test (contrast), even though I set the contrast to the max, the lightest gray box was no where near white, so the test failed right there. What does this mean? That this TV has a very weak contrast?

I’d like to hear your comments about these issues, perhaps solutions and specially your settings in picture controls

Thanks,

The video lag with the HLRs is real and often annoying. The uconversion to 720p process in the TV can take up to 75 ms. If you just use the TV audio system, you won't notice it, because Samsung built in some audio delay to match the video delay (more or less). But if you want the maximum HT experience with true surround sound and connect an A/V receiver to your system, the video lag will rear its ugly head. Any external A/V source such as a cable box, satellite STB or DVD player will produce the problem whenever you hook its audio directly to your amplifier and external speakers. The audio processing time is nil, while the TV takes time to upconvert the video. It doesn't appear to make much difference whether your audio connection is analog (L+R) or digital (coax or optical).

What to do?
1. A Mickey Mouse solution is to pass the external audio source to the TV first, and then feed the TV audio output to your amp. The TV's audio delay is introduced, and more-or-less gets things back in sync. However, if the audio source is surround (DD5.1), you'll lose the extra channels, as the TV's audio circuits can only output 5.1 when connected to a digital OTA signal. Even if you input via the HDMI port, the audio you get is currently just two-channel stereo (DD2.0). As I don't have digital cable (and never will), it is unclear if 5.1 appears on the TV's digital output, when fed RF via a digital cable box. I do know that with satellite or DVDs, you're out of luck.
2. If you don't already have an A/V amp that has audio delay, it's time to upgrade. That feature is now available in middle-of-the-line amps.
3. The external audio delay box mentioned above is also a fix, but its cost rivals the mid-line amps.

Another wrinkle:
Upconverting DVD players add video delay of their own. Choose a model with built-in adjustable audio delay (such as the OPPO 971H). Sure, you can compensate for both TV and DVD video delay with an amp, but when you switch to a source without video lag, you're out of sync in the opposite direction. Finally, you might consider a DVD player with just a progressive output, and let the TV do the upconverting. Not much of any DVD video delay with those. But as good as the Samsung's upconvert chips are, the newer DVDs seem to do a better job (at least my OPPO does).

midnightman

12-27-05, 10:32 PM

I appreciate advices from you all,

I so want to buy a new A/V receiver, but then I have to replace the speaker set too, and that I hesitate to do now. As I said I’m currently using the HTIB, so the current speakers only work with the receiver they came with.

shook2323

12-28-05, 12:17 AM

Just got this TV as an open box deal at Best Buy (42"). Love the picture, but at the very top and very bottom of the screen, there are small finger print sized dull marks (that look like finger prints if they were on a LCD screen).

I've tried wiping with a soft dry cloth as the directions say, and that doesn't do anything. Any suggestions as to what these marks are and how to get them off? Thanks in advance!!!

Hi-Rez!

12-28-05, 01:52 AM

I've seen some references to bowing of the black bars and pc over-scan.
The only geometry adjustment I see in the SM is vertical and horizontal centering.

The bowing is actually a normal pincushion effect. It has something to do with the way the screen fits to the cabinet. Take a knuckle, rather than making a fingerprint, and push the screen at the edge of the black bar. It will have an effect. There isn't an electronic adjustment for it that I'm aware of. Mine is slight and not really too bothersome.

The over-scan that some are experiencing is an odd occurence since 1280 x 720 should fit nicely when using the VGA input. Scanning formats are a product of the video card driver and I've heard of some drivers that can offer nice flexibility when it comes to exact screen matching. You can Google for the free version of the Powerstrip driver that allows for practically any scan rate and that should resolve any over-scan situation. It works with most video cards.

tjpark1111

12-28-05, 02:31 AM

I have a question about the 4266w and the 4667w. I realize the differences between these two tvs, but are there any image quality differences between them(that are actually observable, not bs on paper)? thank you.

shook2323

12-28-05, 08:04 AM

The problem I'm having is much more apparent with lighter backgrounds. The spots can only be noticed viewing the TV straight on, moving to the side at all will cause you to not be able to see them.

However, if you get very close to the TV, and get the reflection of the ceiling light where the spot is, with the TV OFF, you can notice the "dull marks".

I got the service contract since this was an open box unit, but any ideas what this could be?

EDIT: Ok, I've done much searching, and come to the conclusion that I have the "smudge" problem. But for the life of me, I can't find the official smudge HLR thread as referrenced a few times in other searches that I did... Does anyone have it bookmarked? Thanks.

carsan07

12-28-05, 10:57 AM

How does one access the service menu on the Samsung HLR-5067w?

snooby

12-28-05, 09:24 PM

I saw on the forum somewhere that turning the TV on is equivalent to 12 hours of continuous operation for the bulb. That sounds a little extreme. I can see how turning the TV off and on frequently can shorten the bulb life, but 12 hours seems high. That means that every day I watch TV for 4 hours, that is 16 hours of bulb life?

Are there any other estimates out there for the impact of switching the bulb off and on?

Any responses to this? How damaging is turning the TV on and off (i.e. to watch a short program)? Is there anything else to avoid? I saw in a Gateway DLP thread recommendations for waiting at least 1/2 hour between powering off and on the TV and not using it for more than 10 to 12 continuous hours. Do these recommendations also apply to the HLRs too?

MANNAXMAN

12-29-05, 12:21 AM

I just got the HL-R4667W TV for a week and noticed a few problems

b) The pictures in dark scenes look quite bad and lack of details, while the bright scenes look brilliant.

I’d like to hear your comments about these issues, perhaps solutions and specially your settings in picture controls

Thanks,

This is my first post, but I have been reading this thread for a few months now. I would like to thank all of the knowledgeable posters for the valuable information they have supplied to HD/DLP novices like me.

I purchased the HL-R5067 about 6½ weeks ago. Initially, I was VERY pleased with the PQ right out of the box. However, just a few days afer setting it up, I noticed that the PQ of dark scenes and shadows was significantly less than stellar compared to the PQ of bright scenes. I tried adjust everything I could from the User Menu, with no success. About a week ago, after reading a few more posts (specifically ones regarding the Gamma setting), I timidly entered the Service Menu (Comast Cable Motorola HD STB turned off). I tried adjusting the Gamma setting from the default setting of 2 to 1, which seemed to have no positive effect. I then tried adjusting it down to 0, which also seemed to have no effect. Then, tonight, I entered the SM again, but happened to have my HD STB turned on. I don't know why, but I was surprised to see a picture displayed along with the SM. I started to increase the Index setting, based on another post that I read, but the PQ got worse. I immediately turned the Index down and, VOILA, the PQ of dark senes was improving right before my eyes (I had the STB on HBO HD at the time). I left the Index at 45 and exited the SM. I purchased DVE off of ebay and I'll be making more adjustments as soon as I have time.

I hope this info helps!

midnightman

12-29-05, 10:15 AM

This is my first post, but I have been reading this thread for a few months now. I would like to thank all of the knowledgeable posters for the valuable information they have supplied to HD/DLP novices like me.

I purchased the HL-R5067 about 6½ weeks ago. Initially, I was VERY pleased with the PQ right out of the box. However, just a few days afer setting it up, I noticed that the PQ of dark scenes and shadows was significantly less than stellar compared to the PQ of bright scenes. I tried adjust everything I could from the User Menu, with no success. About a week ago, after reading a few more posts (specifically ones regarding the Gamma setting), I timidly entered the Service Menu (Comast Cable Motorola HD STB turned off). I tried adjusting the Gamma setting from the default setting of 2 to 1, which seemed to have no positive effect. I then tried adjusting it down to 0, which also seemed to have no effect. Then, tonight, I entered the SM again, but happened to have my HD STB turned on. I don't know why, but I was surprised to see a picture displayed along with the SM. I started to increase the Index setting, based on another post that I read, but the PQ got worse. I immediately turned the Index down and, VOILA, the PQ of dark senes was improving right before my eyes (I had the STB on HBO HD at the time). I left the Index at 45 and exited the SM. I purchased DVE off of ebay and I'll be making more adjustments as soon as I have time.

I hope this info helps!
I’m glad to hear that we actually have a solution for this after all. I have a few questions for you:

You turned the Index down from ? to 45? (If you still remember the default value)
You still have Gamma at 0?
Does this solution really have anything to do with the HD STB you mentioned?
Did you do similar things to improve PQ in DVD playback?
I thought tweaking SM would help the PQ a little bit, but “VOILA” seems to be more than what we wish for?

Thanks,

MANNAXMAN

12-29-05, 10:51 AM

I’m glad to hear that we actually have a solution for this after all. I have a few questions for you:

You turned the Index down from ? to 45? (If you still remember the default value)
You still have Gamma at 0?
Does this solution really have anything to do with the HD STB you mentioned?
Did you do similar things to improve PQ in DVD playback?
I thought tweaking SM would help the PQ a little bit, but “VOILA” seems to be more than what we wish for?

Thanks,

midnightman,
The default Index setting on my HLR was at 50. I left the Gamma at the default setting of 2. I don't believe the Index adjustment I made is exclusively an improvement to the PQ while viewing through the HD STB. The main reason I mentioned the HD STB is so that you and others will know (if you didn't already know) that you can view a picture while making adjustments in the SM. I guess common sense would tell you that that was possible, but, for whatever reason, I assumed that no picture would be displayed while in the SM. So I never turned on the HD STB before when entering the SM. I have not yet viewed a DVD since making the adjustment to the Index, but I will do so tonight and let you know if the DVD PQ is also better.

rockjeep44

12-29-05, 12:23 PM

Quick question. I have the 5067W and live in Chattanooga TN so I have Comcast standard Cable coming straight into the TV via coax. It's been over a week and so far my TV Guide only have about 4 channels populated. Also, I left town so my TV was off for about 2 days straight. Any ideas on the problem here? Thanks
-Andrew

Hi-Rez!

12-29-05, 01:48 PM

To shook2323,

I don't think you have the "smudge" problem. That was a different screen used with the xx63 and xx74 series. They were large not small like you describe. Anyway, have it replaced by factory service at 1-800 SAMSUNG if it's less than a year old. They will extend the factory warranty by 90-180 days if you ask them. Open box or not, it's their responsibility during the first year. Otherwise, resort to your service contract.

To carsan07,

Be careful in there! Left and right arrows change values in the SM. Take some notes before you try to navigate. Never activate the "User Reset". It doesn't restore to default settings. That said:

With power off, using the remote it's Mute, 1, 8, 2, Power. It will say "Factory Loading".
Arrow up and down to selection. Use Enter to select. Left and right arrows change values. "Menu" returns you to the last menu screen. "Option" takes you to another menu screen where "Lamp Hours" and "Lamp Reset" can be viewed. Power off to exit the SM. Power back on within 3 seconds and you won't cause the lamp to re-strike. It's safe and easier on the lamp.

To snooby,

Lamp strikes require 5000 volts (5kv) from the ballast. After that a pulsing 65 volts will keep the arc lit in the highly compressed mercury gas atmosphere. Obviously, each high voltage strike takes a toll on the two electrodes. A re-strike within seconds from a hot-on state is fine as the lamp will fire almost instantly from the hot gas. Beyond 60 seconds from a hot-on state the electrodes will still be hot, but the gas won't be and the ballast will hammer them with 5kv until the arc egnites through the gas again. This is the state where a re-strike can cause the electrodes to burn back slightly increasing the 1mm gap. That might be the "12 hours" you heard about. It's not good. After 60 seconds from hot-on it's best to let the lamp cool off completely. (30 minutes or more) Cold electrodes take the 5kv better than hot ones. As for not running the set continuously beyond 10 hours, that recommendation is not in the manual and retail stores along with myself exceed that daily. Some stores run them 24/7 and a few "open box" owners have found over 10,000 hours on their lamps. I'm beginning to think that constant on is better than off and on.

My information comes from researching Phillips UHP Mercury Lamps R & D pdf white papers.

JohnnytheSkin

12-29-05, 11:53 PM

rainby

12-30-05, 01:11 AM

I am a new user both to the forum and the HLR**67w DLP TV.
Sorry if this question is off-topic. Thanking you for your suggestion.

i recently failed to hook up my sungale 8500 DVD player with HLR 5667w through component cable, which i feel all i need to do is to connect the cable and then press the button Source on the remote control;

the TV automatically found out the one which I hooked up with cable but failed to pick up any signals with an error message --something like "no signal or week signal"

I could use composite cable to see my DVD on 5667w, but just can not make it via component.

i figure out several possibilities but I do not know how to do trouble shooting if I do nothave another DVD player or another 5667w....

1) my dvd player component output broke,
2)component input on 5667w broke
3)wrong settings,

apprecaite your comments and suggestions.

rainby

hybris1

12-30-05, 01:56 AM

tjpark1111

12-30-05, 03:37 AM

Please help me with this question! I am very close to going with an ISF calibration from HTC/Dan Hammond in Boise and am wondering about the lamp in the DLP. I only have 400 hours, so I'm a long way from replacement, but I'm wondering if it will alter my calibration when I eventually have to replace it. My wife and I are probably moving to a place where there is no close ISF calibrator in the near future, so this will eventually be a problem. What should I expect and plan on?

Also, has anyone here had there HL-R5067W calibrated professionally (or similar Sammy DLP)? If so, what should I expect? Is it really worth it? Thank you!
I personally think that professional calibrations are ripoffs and that a calibration DVD such as AVIA or Digital Video Essentials is enough. Going into the service menu and asking for values on this forum should work well too. That should be your solution after you move to your new location.

midnightman

12-30-05, 10:14 AM

rainby

12-30-05, 11:12 AM

Your DVD player may have a switch on the back for component video or maybe an option in your DVD player settings menu.

Thanks , I will give my DVD player a careful check ...

JohnnytheSkin

12-30-05, 11:52 AM

I personally think that professional calibrations are ripoffs and that a calibration DVD such as AVIA or Digital Video Essentials is enough. Going into the service menu and asking for values on this forum should work well too. That should be your solution after you move to your new location.

I've used DVE, and while I've improved the contrast and brightness, my color is still off. On the "Standard" picture mode I can get blue pretty good (only some light white on one of the squares) and red blends well, but green is terribly off. I can see all the squares, even those that are supposed to be black. When I choose the "Movie" picture mode and calibrate, all of the colors are off and the only one that looks decent is blue (the red squares are darker than the surrounding red and green is still out of whack).

I would be interested in the SM settings, but on my old 32" 4:3 Sony Wega, I can't be satisfied with anything after messing around in the SM (I changed some settings for bowing and convergence). I guess the problem in the SM is that I don't really know what I'm looking for. Even if someone posts settings, how will I know that they work for me? Are there test patterns I should have on the screen while altering the SM values?

If someone could please give me the SM settings that I should change to get a near-calibrated picture, please tell me. Any help and advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks!

MrDeville

12-30-05, 01:13 PM

I picked up my 5067 yesterday. Thank you all so much as the information I have read on this forum was essential in helping me set up this beast.

Since we watch as much SD as HD programming, I did not use the DVI>HDMI connection between my Motorola 6412 STB but chose to use the component connection instead. I have a digital coax going between the STB and my Denon S-101 DVD/Audio system. I have component out from the Denon to the 5067 as well. I have also used the Digital Aduio Out from the TV to the Denon for times when I want to use my Cable Card.

So far so good. I had to have Comcast reset my STB remotely since I was getting poor reception on ESPN and CBS HD channels. I am also using a cable signal booster out of the wall which has adjustable gain which I haven't fiddled with yet.

My two litmus test DVD's for color and motion performance on this TV is Finding Nemo and the newest release of Pink Floyd's "The Wall" re-mastered in HD and DD5.1

Finding Nemo looked great last night. I saw some of the "ghosting" around the fish characters mentioned earlier on this thread, but it wasn't really an issue. I can see how DNIe can be a problem on some SD programming, but so far it hasn't really bothered me.

Finally, I haven't seen a rainbow at all...even when I have tried to do so using some of the methods mentioned here. I haven't even discussed the matter with the wife figuring "nothing mentioned, nothing seen"!

I'm going to leave the TV alone and not mess with anything in the SM for at least a couple of weeks assuming nothing changes. I think I need some time to adjust from going to a 32" Sony XBR (circa 1997) to this unit.

Thanks again to all of you have been so kind in sharing your experiences...good and bad...with us here.

rainby

12-30-05, 01:55 PM

Do we know if the TV's own speakers can be used as a center channel in 5.1 surround sound?

i have not read all the threads in this post, but I did try to use the TV speaker for my central channel (kind of ugly, chhoose composite 3 as input), of course it works, and you could also adjust the central channel volume by using the remoter (besides from your AV), IS that good? that depends on your personal taste, it does not hurt my ear.

my concern is that will this hurt the TV speaker?

kingd

12-30-05, 02:00 PM

rainby: Double check the 3 cables for Component as it's very easy to cross the blue and green, especially when connecting something in a cabinet with low lighting and whatnot.

rainby

12-30-05, 02:12 PM

rainby: Double check the 3 cables for Component as it's very easy to cross the blue and green, especially when connecting something in a cabinet with low lighting and whatnot.

thanks, kingd. I love this forum.

MANNAXMAN

12-30-05, 03:49 PM

Speaking of calibration, how do we use the DVE disc to calibrate given that the tint control is disabled? Is there a way to turn it on in SM?

midnightman,

The Tint control is disabled when you connect via Component (I presume the same would be true for an HDMI connection).

To answer your earlier question regarding the DVD PQ on my 5067 after making the Index setting adjustment, I quickly popped in a DVD last night and I did notice some improvement to dark scenes on DVD as well. So, it appears to me that the Index adjustment affected all of the inputs, not just my Component 1 input (HD STB). I'll do one other check in the SM with the TV set to the Component 2 source (my DVD connection) to see if the Index setting is at the default (50) or at the setting I adjusted it to when the TV was on the Component 1 source.

midnightman

12-30-05, 04:44 PM

Thanks MANNAXMAN, your information is very helpful. I still feel nervous about entering the SM though. Hopefully it's not like walking through mine fields.

About Tint control being disabled in component mode, it's very strange Samsung designs the TV that way. They expect us to give up using the component input or what.

JohnnytheSkin

12-30-05, 06:21 PM

Any help with my questions? Has anyone else had a ISF calibration with this DLP?

njfoses

12-30-05, 07:40 PM

Im sure this has been covered but i searched and couldnt find the answer. If using passthrough on comcast sa 8300hd will i be able to let the tv stretch 4:3 over hdmi?? I know i dont have to stretch the picture but my wife actually likes the stretched picture better than black bars on the side of sd programming. Im replacing a sony 42a10 which allows this. Thanks.

Mike

rainby

12-30-05, 10:58 PM

rainby: Double check the 3 cables for Component as it's very easy to cross the blue and green, especially when connecting something in a cabinet with low lighting and whatnot.

Kingd, i really plugged wrong , thanks a lot.

rockjeep44

12-30-05, 11:26 PM

midnightman

12-30-05, 11:39 PM

Any ideas? Thanks
No, but keep in mind that the TV Guide service itself is very buggy, this is unlikely a TV's problem

You could try to unplug the power of the TV for about 30 sec, (you will lose time setting), plug it back in and wait until the next day to see if the TV Guide works.

airchip

12-31-05, 03:49 AM

First time posting. Have an HLR5067W. Been running it on straight cable and am just getting ready to connect HD/digital. I have noticed some artifacts on the screen and seeing the term 'smudge' tossed about in this forum, i was wondering if that might be what I have. A few days after setting up, i saw 4 marks on the screen, in the lower left and right, and the upper left and right. They are a dark grayish color, approx. 4 inches long by 1 inch high made up of multiple vertical streaks. The bottom marks are mirror images of each other and the tops are the same. They almost look as if someone wiped something on the screen itself. They are relatively dark and show up better when lighter images are on the screen. After first seeing them, they would come and go on different days. But now, they are present all the time.

Is this the 'smudge' being refered to or is this another animal altogether? Any ideas would be appreciated. Hopefully something i can deal with but I'm afraid I may be looking at warranty issues here.

Thanks,

Chip

njfoses

12-31-05, 08:28 AM

Lincoln Sternn

01-01-06, 06:25 PM

Hey, just my Sammy HLR5067W, was wondering if anyone could reccomend a good calibration disc for this set?

Also, in the meantime, does anyone have any good settings that they could share?

I would like to second this, and also request a PM with service menu information for the HLR5067W.

Thanks in advance.

kiddstyle

01-01-06, 11:08 PM

Hello,

I have the HLR6164W
http://www.samsung.com/ca/products/tv/dlptv/hlr6164wxxac.asp

I was wondering if anyone knew why this model is only offered in Canada?
Is there an equivalent model offered in the US?

blacknoi

01-02-06, 12:43 PM

Here is a picture of the problem. You can see on the left side green bars more clearly, but their through the entire picture. The black horizontal letterbox bars don't have them, so the problem is only limited to the incoming picture. Don't know whats wrong though.

my hl-r5667w does the same thing only in the following scenario:

original xbox using HD cables (RGB analog) watching a DVD.

The original xbox only outputs dvds in 480i.

When i use my Xbox for ANYTHING else, I don't get those green bars. I'm glad I'm not the only one with this issue.

...but lets say I use XBox Media Center to play a dvd (XBMC can output dvd's at 480p, or upconverted 1080i or 720p) ...when XBMC plays them, the green bars are NOT there, so this seems to be an issue with using a dvd player that only does 480i output.

I'm still wishing for a miracle for the video lag for video gaming though... as my (at the time) 2200 purchase is quite worthless for serious competitive online xbox game play.

wayne picard

01-02-06, 02:20 PM

kiddstyle,

I believe the Canadian HLRxx64w series is basically the same as the HLRxx66w series in the US. Comparing the spec sheets for these two series the only difference is the Canadian unit is not described as being digital cable ready, which means there is no slot for the cable card, and the firewire connection is missing. Other then that the specs are identical.

I just purchased the 42" model (having a FP in the same room I did not need a larger size) and find it is excellent on HD, but it can be blotchy on SD via my BEV 9200(Dish 942). The World juniors on Sports Net HD in particular are fantastic.

tahutchinson

01-02-06, 04:25 PM

Hi,

I have some questions about recording from firewire output on the HL-R4xx7W series. I came across a review of the HL-R5668W in the magazine "The Perfect Vision". Quoting from the article:

"I attempted to make a recording on an RCA DVR, .... The HL-R5668 had no problem recognizing the RCA DVR, and the set was able to play and fast-scan any of the recordings I had previously stored on it. However, the Samsung would not allow me to record any new cable content on the DVR. Instead, it displayed an on-screen notice that the content was copy-protected. This occurred with my local digital-broadcast channels (terrestrial channels that are rebroadcast on digital cable) as well as premium content such as HBO. Copy restrictions are prohibited on rebroadcast channels, so that couldn't have been the problem.
"I finally learned from Samsung that the HL-R5668 does not have a PID (Program Identifier) filter. This filter is essential for recording digital-cable signals, which carry two complete HD channels in the same 6MHz bandwidth as single-channel over-the-air broadcasts. A program ID filter allows only one channel to pass through the FireWire cable to the recorder, which can't record two channels at once. ... The Samsung rep I spoke with assured me that digital recordings of terrestrial broadcasts can be performed, but I didn't try it."

So, my questions come down to:
1. Does the problem of not being able to record digital cable channels also occur with the HL-R4XX7W series?
2. If I use an antenna to recieve channels OTA, will I have the same problem?
3. Ultimately, I'd like to use mythtv to record from the FireWire output of the TV. Is there any hope of doing that with this TV?
4. Has anyone on this list actually recorded from the FireWire output--what are your experiences?

Thanks,

Todd

sunrain

01-02-06, 11:57 PM

dgt2n

01-03-06, 09:04 AM

A big thanks to everyone in this thread. After having read this and (many) other threads, I just ordered an HLR-5067W from Amazon today. I should be receiving the set early next week and I'll definitely share my impressions. I have an Xbox 360, so I'll make a point of voicing comments specific to that.

These forums are fantastic. Thanks again.

Congrats - I just pulled the trigger yesterday too, although I got Onecall to pricematch Amazon because i've heard better things about the extended warranty from there. I'm excited to finally have something to add to this forum after a year of browsing....

7-10 days!!

rockjeep44

01-03-06, 09:44 AM

A big thanks to everyone in this thread. After having read this and (many) other threads, I just ordered an HLR-5067W from Amazon today. I should be receiving the set early next week and I'll definitely share my impressions. I have an Xbox 360, so I'll make a point of voicing comments specific to that.

These forums are fantastic. Thanks again.

I too have an Xbox 360 and 5067W and I can say it looks absolutely fantastic! It will honestly blow you away.

rockjeep44

01-03-06, 09:46 AM

I'm still wishing for a miracle for the video lag for video gaming though... as my (at the time) 2200 purchase is quite worthless for serious competitive online xbox game play.

Get an Xbox 360. Problem solved :D

SniperKilla

01-03-06, 10:36 AM

i just bought a HLR5067W...

im seeing an effect on the screen that looks like its dirty or something.. especially on bright white images.. dont know if this is normal or not with dlp..

MANNAXMAN

01-03-06, 01:25 PM

I've used DVE, and while I've improved the contrast and brightness, my color is still off. On the "Standard" picture mode I can get blue pretty good (only some light white on one of the squares) and red blends well, but green is terribly off. I can see all the squares, even those that are supposed to be black. When I choose the "Movie" picture mode and calibrate, all of the colors are off and the only one that looks decent is blue (the red squares are darker than the surrounding red and green is still out of whack).

I tried calibrating my 5067 with DVE yesterday and got very similar results - green is nowhere close to being where it's supposed to be. I, too, can see all of the squares. Has anyone had any luck calibrating green using DVE? The only thing I have changed in the SM is the Index (decreased to 42 from 50). I'd appreciate any suggestions or hearing any success stories.

Thanks in advance.

SniperKilla

01-03-06, 04:27 PM

Silk screen effect (SSE). Its (unfortunately) normal on DLPs.

ok as long as its normal.. i can get used it it ;)

also im sure its normal for a pure black screen to be kinda light.. due to the projection tech... other than those 2 things tv is awesome

johngraz

01-04-06, 09:15 AM

SniperKilla

01-04-06, 11:02 AM

is black supousted to look terrible on these sets.. watching lord of war dvd.. and in dark scenes.. the blacks are so light and washed out.. its almost unwatchable

MrDeville

01-04-06, 01:39 PM

I am the mostly proud new owner of a 4667W and am very happy with it. Really nice TV with a few minor issues. I have a few dumb questions I hope you will help with. It is running thru an SA STB, Adelphia cable, and audio thru a Onkyo 503 receiver with 5 speakers awaiting purchase of a subwoofer. My connections are STB dvi to hdmi TV and the digital coax to the Onkyo for sound. DVD is component into TV and optical into receiver for sound. HD and DVD's are amazing on this TV. Here are my questions:

What is the expected bulb life and cost ($250?)
Is a dry cloth or windex or something else best to clean the screen?
Set seems to be a bit green and dark scenes a little dark?? Do I really need to mess with the service menu to deal with it? It sounds a bit scary, but would love to get that last bit out of an awesome TV.
I have the STB set up at 720p even though it has a 1080i setting, is this best? No need to down convert??
HD is awesome but SD is sometimes awful. What resolution and screen size do you prefer (480??) for SD. I don't mind the black bars if it doesn't distort as much.
Finally, and maybe for a different forum but if you don't mind... Adelphia does HD in the 700 channels section in my area. Will network HD just appear there as available, I don't really get OTA in my rural location. Last night and this am ABC appeared at 701 but no other broadcast HD channels. Was it just no other HD broadcasts at that time or something I need to do to crank them in? Adelphia is no help, not a surprise in my area. I see some local stations listed as 13.3 but is that a Sammy setting or STB? If its a Sammy setting how to a do it?

A huge thanks to everyone for all the great info on this site and for helping out a newbie.

Congrats! I just set up my 5067 last week after many months of research and I couldn't be happier. I have a Motorola HD-DVR STB (#6214) which I have running into Component 1. My Denon S-101 DVD/Receiver is running into component 2. I have my STB set to 480p for SD TV and most of the time it looks best in 4:3. Some broadcasts look ok in 16:9 too. You'll have to experiment.

I used an AVIA calibration DVD and I DID NOT enter the SM. I simply adjusted the settings (contrast, brightness, color etc.) in the various picture modes (standard, movie, cust., dynamic). Tint is not adjustable using component or HDMI connections for reasons I do not know.

As for cleaning the screen, the manual is vague on the matter. But I wouldn't get windex or any other chemical anywhere near the screen until I knew what I was doing.

Good luck and enjoy!

Michael Stinson

01-04-06, 01:44 PM

I posted a few pages back about my new 4667. At the time I was not using a surround sound receiver so I couldn't comment about audio lag. I am happy to report that I just purchased a new Onkyo 7.0 receiver and have not found any audio lag at all as of yet. This is from my DTV HDTivo (component), my PS2 over standard composite cables (if there is game lag I havent noticed it at all on any games so far), and my JVC progressive DVD (component). I am actually running everything into the receiver and using that for video switching with the exception of the PS2 (using the GAME setting for that input). The Onkyo has plenty of A/V sync delay built in if I ever need it, but so far so good!

PS I guess to say that I haven't noticed any audio lag is not true. If I leave the TV internal speaker on it is very slightly out of sync with the receiver sound. However if I do not have the TV speaker on I personally have not been able to detect any lip sync. Maybe I am just not sensitive enough....and happy not to be! Great TV and very happy with my purchase. Thanks again to everyone for sharing their experiences and hope mine helps someone else!

LtCarter47

01-04-06, 02:39 PM

SniperKilla

01-04-06, 03:15 PM

MANNAXMAN

01-04-06, 04:09 PM

Hi,

I'm helping my parents get into the HDTV scene, and we went shopping last weekend. It looks like we're going to go with a 50" Samsung DLP (HLR5067), and the only thing left is a stand. Everything they had on display was either too big or too ugly (according to my mom ;) ).

When I bought my Sony 60" LCD (60WE610), I was fortunate enough to have picked a model that had a Techcraft stand designed specifically for it. I can't seem to find a good matching stand as easily this time.

Can anyone suggest a stand or a good site to look for one? My mom would like something black, not silver, and hopefully no wider than the TV itself.

Thank you so much!
-Sean

Sean,

Tech Craft makes two very similar stands that I have seen that are slightly wider than the HLR5067 (stand width on both is 48", I believe). The model numbers are PTV48 and DLP48X. The stands are very similar in design. The main design difference - the PTV48 has all glass shelves whereas the DLP48X has a MDF(?) top shelf. There is also a considerable difference in price, from what I've seen on the internet (PTV48 is higher). The PTV48 is definitely available in black, I'm not sure about the DLP48X. If you go to the Tech Craft web site, both stands are in the Monaco collection, if I remember correctly. Otherwise, just visit a site like RacksandStands.

Hope this helps!

LtCarter47

01-04-06, 04:26 PM

Sean,

Tech Craft makes two very similar stands that I have seen that are slightly wider than the HLR5067 (stand width on both is 48", I believe). The model numbers are PTV48 and DLP48X. The stands are very similar in design. The main design difference - the PTV48 has all glass shelves whereas the DLP48X has a MDF(?) top shelf. There is also a considerable difference in price, from what I've seen on the internet (PTV48 is higher). The PTV48 is definitely available in black, I'm not sure about the DLP48X. If you go to the Tech Craft web site, both stands are in the Monaco collection, if I remember correctly. Otherwise, just visit a site like RacksandStands.

Hope this helps!

Thank you very much, I'll definitely take a look at those!

kingd

01-04-06, 11:40 PM

Whttkrasst

01-05-06, 12:45 AM

Hi - I have a features question. The manual describes auto-volume as modulating the volume when the channel is changed. Is this the same as, or similar to, the kind of volume control that manages commercials that are too loud? Does it work, is it effective? Thanks

biggeley

01-05-06, 09:04 AM

I tried calibrating my 5067 with DVE yesterday and got very similar results - green is nowhere close to being where it's supposed to be. I, too, can see all of the squares. Has anyone had any luck calibrating green using DVE? The only thing I have changed in the SM is the Index (decreased to 42 from 50). I'd appreciate any suggestions or hearing any success stories.

Thanks in advance.

I have a 5067 as well.. Using an Oppo DVD player and calibrating with DVE as well. I can get blue and red pretty close, but green is off in every mode I have tried. My current settings after DVE are movie mode, 75 contrast, 60 brightness, 52 color, 0 sharpness. This is using HDMI.

Movie mode seems to screw up the green slightly less than the other modes. The picture isn't as bright, but it really seems to bring out the colors more than other modes. Also, it seems to reduce the shimmering effect on static objects I commony see in various scenes.

The DVE says that when the color is off it's usually a decoder error. They say that usually the red that is hardest to get right, because manufacturers push the red to give the screen more pop. They say you just have to compromise on the color adjustment to keep the red from being too saturated, even if it makes the blue off.

Of course we have problems with the green. Blue and red in this case are really close. I figure it's a decoder issue relating to green. Maybe it's decoding that way to make the greens "pop." That way they will sell more Samsung DLP tvs to sports fans... ;-) I'll keep digging around through the DVE to see if they have any more information about tweaking the green. At this point, I'm thinking we're pretty much screwed, though....

SniperKilla

01-05-06, 09:27 AM

SniperKilla: The samsung stands for the 50" do not have support in the front for the middle portion of the screen. This causes bowing at the ends which effects the screen. You can call ameriwood and ask for clear inserts which go into the space between the speaker and screen at the ends which should stop the bowing.

actually i contacted ameriwood,

"Thank you for your email. Yes we did have an issue on those. If you are having a problem I can send you the tops out as we no longer use the spacers due to having the issue resolved. Does your unit have the problem, as not all of them did. If it does I will need you to reply to this email along with the size you have 50" or 56" I will look forward to your reply email."

they are sending out new tops, not spacers anymore

kingd

01-05-06, 12:18 PM

spockware

01-05-06, 12:31 PM

Porn Loader

01-05-06, 02:36 PM

SniperKilla: Thanks for the clarification! I called a few weeks ago and at the time they didn't mention new tops. I haven't gotten them yet so i wonder if they were waiting to get the new tops in before shipping.

I was also wondering if the "new" tops now ship w/ the current stands, or do you still have to contact ameriwood for the top?

Carl033, did you ever get your new top?

LtCarter47, if you look on sammy site, they now list the tr46x3 and a tr46x3sb. it comes with black and silver front legs, supposedly, but haven't seen them locally yet.

carsan07

01-05-06, 03:47 PM

Xbox 360 + Samsung HLR-5067W question:

I think that im getting some lag when playing with my Xbox 360 when connected to my tv using the Component cables. I currently have a pc connected via the VGA port in the back, and i have noticed that there is no lag on any games i play on the pc. So my question is twofold:

1. Would connecting my Xbox 360 using the vga port on the back of the TV eliminate the lag im noticing?
2. If so, are there any "VGA switching" type things, where i can plug in my pc and Xbox 360 to the switcher and have one connection to the TV so i can specify which item to display on the screen?

carsan07

01-05-06, 03:48 PM

And i guess:
3. Where could i get a cheap vga switcher, if one exists?

Thanks guys! Any help would be greatly appreciated!

SniperKilla

01-06-06, 12:04 AM

I was also wondering if the "new" tops now ship w/ the current stands, or do you still have to contact ameriwood for the top?

Carl033, did you ever get your new top?

LtCarter47, if you look on sammy site, they now list the tr46x3 and a tr46x3sb. it comes with black and silver front legs, supposedly, but haven't seen them locally yet.

i just bought my HLR5067w and stand on the 29th of december.. and the stand has no front support from what i can tell.. havent put my tv on it yet, just built it.. was too exicted when i got it, that i threw it on an old ugly table i had my old tv on ;)

waiting on the new top before i even bother putting the tv on it..

puckster02

01-06-06, 04:04 AM

Actually, I have received the "new" top for my HLR5667 stand and I would have to say it is still a defective design. Look under the front of your set and notice that the front "feet" of the set are located almost flush with the front of the set. The new stand top, while definitely covering more of the top area, does not extend out to the very front of stand, thus leaving the set "feet" still dangling in open air. They should have designed the stand so it covers the entire top, all the way to the front.

So having said the above, I am still using the wood insets that were originally provided. And for the record, the inserts are black in colour, not clear.

I have contacted Ameriwood and let them know about this design flaw, and was told I would be contacted after the holiday season, but obviously that is not happening.

carsan07

01-06-06, 09:26 AM

Reposting Question:

Xbox 360 + Samsung HLR-5067W question:

I think that im getting some lag when playing with my Xbox 360 when connected to my tv using the Component cables. I currently have a pc connected via the VGA port in the back, and i have noticed that there is no lag on any games i play on the pc. So my question is threefold:

1. Would connecting my Xbox 360 using the vga port on the back of the TV eliminate the lag im noticing?
2. If so, are there any "VGA switching" type things, where i can plug in my pc and Xbox 360 to the switcher and have one connection to the TV so i can specify which item to display on the screen?
3. Where can i get a cheap vga switcher, if one exists?

mrconos

01-06-06, 11:56 AM

Hey all,

Could some one here give me some more information about a fix for the stand tops that come with the HL-R5067W. I read a couple of the recent posts and saw some people talking about it. I noticed that the stand not supporting the center of the screen causes a little bit of bowing myself, but didn't really think much of it.

Does this cause any damage to the TV? Effect picture quality?

Anyway, I was wondering if anyone here could give me a number/e-mail address/website of who I can contact to get a new top or spacer like some previously people mentioned to fix this.
Also, is there a charge for these new tops/spacers or is it free since it is a design defect?

Thanks for any help.

rockjeep44

01-06-06, 12:06 PM

mdfuller

01-06-06, 12:18 PM

carsan07

01-06-06, 01:04 PM

I notice lag on most games, even when I tap the d pad to switch between blades, it lags a little. I was playing the fight night demo yesterday and the punches just werent happening when i tapped the controller. Also in Kameo.

AU Chevy

01-06-06, 01:33 PM

I am going to purchase a 5667W and will build a stand for it. Can someone give me the measurement from the bottom of the TV to the middle of the display?

mdfuller

01-06-06, 01:46 PM

I also have seen no lag whatsoever on my HLR5067W and my XBOX 360. I am using component and renamed the input to GAME like rockjeep44 mentioned.

MrDeville

01-06-06, 02:37 PM

It seems there are so many people frustrated with the cheesy Samsung stand...so I thought I would share my experiences. After getting the Samsung stand home and realizing it was designed by a person with an IQ of -2 I decided to buy the Bush VS74377-03 stand. I got it for $250 and it is the greatest stand I have ever seen for the money. I know this is not going to help the guy looking for the rest of the parts for his stand (that should be included or I would sue if I were you), but I thought it might help if someone is considering an alternative to the Sammy stand. I do love my HLR5067W though, but the stand is a joke in my opinion.

Thanks to reading this thread I passed on the stock stand for my 5067 from the begining. I really didn't like the look all that much anyway.

I got a great TV console from Ikea. They have several styles and they are all very affordable. I got the "Magiker" series and in my package I got the TV stand (with a center compartment that was seemingly tailor made for my Denon Subwoofer) two pier units (single glass door) a two shelf bridge unit (for my center channel) and two halogen lights which screw into the top of the peir units. The entire package cost $479! It took some time to assemble, but it was well work it and we are very happy. :)

MrDeville

01-06-06, 04:10 PM

I haven't purchased one yet, but does any one know if I can connect my 5067 to and Xbox 360 console via HDMI and/or PC interface? I can't seem to find the connection spec.'s anywhere!

Thanks

JohnnytheSkin

01-06-06, 04:17 PM

You can't hook the 360 up via HDMI, but you can use the VGA port. I have my 360 set up with the VGA cable and the picture is great!

carsan07

01-06-06, 04:24 PM

You can't hook the 360 up via HDMI, but you can use the VGA port. I have my 360 set up with the VGA cable and the picture is great!

Which model of the samsung hlr series do you have? Is there any part of the edges of the screen cut off for you using the Xbox 360 vga cable? Im debating purchasing the VGA Cable, because i have my computer hooked up to the vga port and i would need some type of switcher. Does anyone know of a cheap vga switcher, if there exists one?

LtCarter47

01-06-06, 04:41 PM

I just did a search on google for VGA switchers, and I went to the first result. Found a couple KVMs with VGA for 49.99. I'm not sure if that's in the range of "cheap" though...

Bailie

01-06-06, 07:14 PM

AU Chevy,

I built a stand for my 5667. It turned out great. I built it from oak.

http://product.samsung.com/pdf/hlr5667_dimensions.pdf

Mr. Old School

01-06-06, 10:50 PM

I've got a few questions about the Samsung HLR5067W for you guys that have had it awhile. I currently have a 36" Toshiba where this tv is going to go. I have a Pioneer surround receiver, cable box, VCR, Tivo, DVD player, and a center channel speaker in the entertainment center, not to mention a Gamecube and an Xbox on the bottom shelf. What all do you guys have hooked up and where did you put it considering the Samsung stand looks like it might hold 2 components at the most?

Also, I am very attached to my Tivo and don't want to give it up, so what happens if I go with a Cable Card? Obviously, there's no box for the Tivo to control so should I just get a HD cable box and keep the Tivo? I already have a Scientific Atlanta 8300 HD/DVR on my 32" HDTV in my gameroom and while the cable DVRs do their job, they can't compare to Tivo. So how do I keep my Tivo in my setup with this tv?

Finally, I'm going to be buying this tv from Sears and the guy told me that they would match competitor's prices. When I asked him did I need to bring in Best Buy's or Circuit City's ad, he said no that he could match prices on the internet. So does that mean they will match the lowest price on Pricegrabber or does it have to be a MAJOR retailer? Right now Sears has the tv on sale for $2374. Plasma House is the lowest on Pricegrabber with a price of $1889 shipped. Best Buy has it for $2189 as well. Here's the kicker. On Pricegrabber, Ritz Camera has the tv listed for $1941 with no tax and free shipping. We just happen to have a Ritz Camera in our mall where Sears is, but they don't sell tvs at that location that I know of. Maybe they would order them for you, but I have never been in to ask them. So am I going to have a problem with Sears matching the lowest price or will they pretty much match anything you bring in to get the sale?

Thanks and I look forward to being a member of the Samsung DLP family by tomorrow.

midnightman

01-07-06, 12:25 AM

Don't expect Sears to match prices on the internet! They don't. The Sears guy simply means he could verify prices on the internet of BestBuy, CircuitCity,...

I bought one at Sears using pricematch to Target price. I got 440 off. But they clearly told me they would not match prices from internet-base stores.

Mr. Old School

01-07-06, 12:57 AM

What about Ritz Camera? They are in the same mall as Sears and they have the tv on Pricegrabber for $1941. Trouble is, I have never seen a tv of any kind in that store so it must be larger Ritz Cameras that sell tvs. Now technically even though this particular Ritz Camera doesn't sell tvs, wouldn't they still have to price match because their company does?

This is from Sears' price matching policy on their website:

If you find a lower price (including shipping, handling and delivery) on an identical branded item with the same features currently available for sale and delivery in your area from a local retail store's online site, Sears will match that total price Plus, give you 10% of the difference. Just print the ordering page, including shipping, handling and delivery, and bring it to your Sears store at the time of, or within 30 days after, your purchase. If you are purchasing the item from sears.com, email the information to order@customerservice.sears.com

Ritz Camera's site would qualify as a local retailer's online site, would it not?

LtCarter47

01-07-06, 08:49 AM

Sean,

Tech Craft makes two very similar stands that I have seen that are slightly wider than the HLR5067 (stand width on both is 48", I believe). The model numbers are PTV48 and DLP48X. The stands are very similar in design. The main design difference - the PTV48 has all glass shelves whereas the DLP48X has a MDF(?) top shelf. There is also a considerable difference in price, from what I've seen on the internet (PTV48 is higher). The PTV48 is definitely available in black, I'm not sure about the DLP48X. If you go to the Tech Craft web site, both stands are in the Monaco collection, if I remember correctly. Otherwise, just visit a site like RacksandStands.

Hope this helps!

We went down to Magnolia last night and made the purchase. They just to happened to have one of the samsung stands in house without a TV on it, so I got a good look at the design, and how it could cause the "bowing". We went for the PTV48 in black in the end. Thanks again for the recommendation!

-Sean

njfoses

01-07-06, 11:20 AM

Im at wits end here. I received my hlr4667w yesterday after trying 3 sony kdf42a10's that all had horrible blue color uniformity issues in the corners of the screen. What do you know the sammy has a blue blotch very noticeable in dark scenes about midway down the screen on the left side about the size of my hand. I havent found anybody that has had this type of problem on this model?? Could it be dust?? I dont want to go through exchanging another set i just want a screen with no blue blotches is that to much to ask.

Mike

JohnnytheSkin

01-07-06, 11:45 AM

Which model of the samsung hlr series do you have? Is there any part of the edges of the screen cut off for you using the Xbox 360 vga cable? Im debating purchasing the VGA Cable, because i have my computer hooked up to the vga port and i would need some type of switcher. Does anyone know of a cheap vga switcher, if there exists one?

I don't have any problems. The problem is if you name the PC input "PC" in the edit name section. This will allow you to pick "Wide TV" or "Wide PC" and that is what creates the problem. I have my PC input named "GAME" and once I set the 360 resolution to 1280x720, it fills the screen fine. Good luck!

SniperKilla

01-07-06, 03:26 PM

kingd

01-07-06, 04:25 PM

njfoses: Could be something in your setup. I've seen blue or red splotches on a regular 27in i had that was in an enclosure and heat would build up in it and the splotches would appear near the outer edge. How do you have the TV set up? Is it in a place where alot of heat could be building up behind or around it? The only other thing i can think of offhand is maybe one of your components is interfering with your set somehow like a speaker or some other device? Just grasping at straws but it would have to be crazy coincidence for so many TV's to exhibit similar behavior on their own. The only common denominator i suppose is the environment it was set up in.

matt_garman

01-07-06, 08:01 PM

For those of you driving your HL-Rxx67W with Linux/Xorg, what modeline are you using?

I just received the HLR5067W, but can't seem to find a modeline that is the "silver bullet", i.e. looks perfect. From my searching/googling, I've found a few modelines that work, but none work perfectly.

For what it's worth, I'm trying to run 1280x720 via the VGA (since my video card doesn't have DVI out).

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks,
Matt

njfoses

01-07-06, 10:51 PM

MANNAXMAN

01-08-06, 08:07 PM

We went down to Magnolia last night and made the purchase. They just to happened to have one of the samsung stands in house without a TV on it, so I got a good look at the design, and how it could cause the "bowing". We went for the PTV48 in black in the end. Thanks again for the recommendation!

-Sean

Anytime, Sean! Let me know how you like it. It's at the top of my list of possible stands.

JohnnytheSkin

01-09-06, 04:03 PM

I had my HL-R5067W Samsung DLP calibrated by Dan Hammond of Home Theater Calibrations in Boise on Saturday and figured I would post my impressions.

The goal I wanted was a good grayscale across all of my used inputs (HDMI, two component, and VGA), at 720p which is the native resolution of my set. He found that all my inputs were burning very high, around 11000 - 13000K, a very far cry from 6500K. After some real simple tweaks, he got my display to hover on every input around 6400 - 6500K, almost flat lining (something he was very surprised about). After tweaking the user settings, the green was still out of whack...something common on Sammy DLP's. He didn't know how to fix the green, and would ask about it. If a SM solution is found, he will come back and fix it for a nominal fee (and if ANYONE has any solutions, please send me a PM...which I can then forward on to him, though I do have DVE and my own set of color filters). The best part was that he finished up just in time for the Bucs/Skins game.

I must say that I was stunned by the picture. Once I got over the fact that the picture was a bit dimmer and that the whites were softer then what I was used to, I was amazed at how much more detail I could see. There was considerably more detail in the dark scenes (I could see the colors of the costumes in LOTR in Moria...something that never jumped out at me before). I also saw a lot more detail in my wife and me's guilty pleasure, "Desperate Housewives". The skin tones were a lot more natural and the colors "popped" when they should, yet held clarity in the night scenes. Even my cruded eyed wife could see the difference. The only problem was that my Sony HDMI upconverting player crapped out on me that night, right when I settled down to watch "The Godfather Part II". The player would no longer recognize the HDMI cable, and after switching cables and testing, I had to drop it off this afternoon at a repair shop...very disappointing. I will definately be enjoying "Lost" with my accurate settings though!

The only problem was that the green wasn't fixed. Since this was the newest DLP he worked on, and the Sencore reference sheets didn't have the coordinates for the color settings, he wasn't able to fix it. Hopefully someone here can point me in the right direction in the SM. The price was very good, only the base ISF fee and he only charged me for one additional input, though he did three additional (no composite or S-Video inputs were done on my request). I think that the ISF calibration was worth it, if nothing else, for peace of mind. The picture quality is improved, and looks great with my 6500K backlight. I just hope my DVD player is fixed in a timely manner. I was so pissed!

Thanks, and feel free to post additional comments and if ANYONE can help me, please do...I would appreciate it

MrDeville

01-09-06, 04:53 PM

Johnny - If you don't mind telling, how much did it cost to have your 5067 calibrated? How did you find the guy?

I used AVIA DVD on my 2 week old 5067 and brought down White levels significatly.

JohnnytheSkin

01-09-06, 05:24 PM

Johnny - If you don't mind telling, how much did it cost to have your 5067 calibrated? How did you find the guy?

I used AVIA DVD on my 2 week old 5067 and brought down White levels significatly.

He charged me a flat $300 (that is $250 which is his base charge for single input calibration plus one extra input...though he normally charges $75 for an additional input). I used the ISF website and someone referenced Seth Schnaible (spelling) from I think LionAV, who mentioned that he had spoken with the calibrator I went with. I didn't really have a choice though, since one of the three Boise ISF'ers listed no longer does calibrations and the other doesn't do DLP's.

As for the white levels, Dan thinks they are still too high. Since it's a DLP,which is very bright anyway, the contrast pattern he had (an above white box with just below white inside) only worked with contrast all the way up...which creates an extremely bright picture. I have my contrast at 60 for HD and DVD, with it at 70 for gaming. My brightness remains at 56, which is the perfect black level for the set.

Hope this helps, and hopefully I was allowed to list pricing info. Just know that from the ISF site, it seems that $275 is the standard calibration cost. Good luck!

mrconos

01-09-06, 06:24 PM

bumbumind

01-09-06, 06:59 PM

I recently bought a Samsung HL-R6167W and got the TR61X2 stand.

Has anybody here had any problems putting together the stand.

I am having a problem with the last step. I am supposed to attach a steel pipe to the stand and it is just too long. It seems like it would fit perfectly if I was putting together a stand for 67"

Anybody had any expereience like this.

Thanks.

-Zee

JohnnytheSkin

01-09-06, 09:08 PM

Hey can anyone on here who has there TV calibrated at good settings (either professionally, by disc, or just by their own eyes) share some of their settings?

I spent about a half hour trying to adjust settings while watching a NFL game yesterday and had a hard time finding a picture that looked just right.

Thanks

My settings after calibration are (using "Custom"):

Contrast 60 (for HD and DVD, I have it at 70 for games)
Brightness 56 (perfect for all the test patterns...generated or via DVE)
Sharpness 10 (just to sharpen the news scrolls, it's at zero for DVD)
Color 54 (gives me near perfect blues and reds, green is off as referenced above)
Color Temp: Normal (after gray scale calibration)

My calibrator thought that contrast should be lower, but he prefers a darker picture. With the 720p generated contrast pattern, the only way to make the white box on an above white background "just barely" be visible required the contrast to be at around 90, which makes everything washed out. Not quite sure if I should have it up that high though, since the DLP's are very bright (in foot-lamberts) anyway. Know that every display is slightly different, and that calibration is what ultimately matters (MUST have grayscale correct before anything else can be right).

Maybe someone can help me with the contrast question on a calibrated set. Thanks!

thetroll76

01-11-06, 03:47 AM

Well after a few weeks of shopping around and reading stuff online I decided to purchase the HL-R5067W to replace my 50 inch Toshiba rear projection big screen. I was on the fence between this model and the Sony 50 inch LCD and I hope I made the right choice, but now I'm second guessing myself after reading all these posts. My biggest concern is the number of posts regarding screen lag while playing the original X-Box, seeing as I'm an AVID gamer (my wife would say AVID is putting it lightly) this is obviously a major reason to worry. My set won't be delivered until Friday afternoon so I'm just going by what I've read. The salesman at Best Buy assured me that screen lag would not be an issue AT ALL (his words) so I'm quite perplexed on this issue, any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Secondly, and this is where I'm sure I'll sound stupid; I was always under the impression that 1080i is the best resolution for a High Def picture, yet this TV's native mode is 720p (whatever that means). Does this mean that this TV will not do 1080i or am I just an idiot?

Lastly, seeing as there is only one HDMI slot I have to make a choice between my cable box (Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD) or my HD-UpConversion DVD Player (LG LDA-511) that I just bought today from Best Buy for $150. I'm running Monster Cable ( 800 series) for both my component and HDMI hookups. Now since this particular DVD player upconverts through component I think I might be best served with running my HD cable box with the HDMI, any thoughts?

mrconos

01-11-06, 09:52 AM

Don't listen to sales people at Best Buy, haha. But no seriously, I notice slight lag with my x-box on this TV (unfortunately). It is most noticeable in sports games to me (i.e. baseball where you have to time the pitch meter, or basketball in shooting free throws). However, after a little playing time I learned to compensate for it and don't even think about it anymore. I guess it comes down to how anal you are with stuff like that.

Also, as far as the HD resolution, I believe 1080i is the best resolution/detail, but 720P is better for motion (sports, lots of fast action on the screen). The 720P HDTVs down convert the 1080i signal to 720P. It still looks good, but obviously not as good as if you had a true 1080 display (which cost $1k or more). So for the price range, the set is fine. If you want top notch you should have spent the extra $1K. As far as channels go, ABC, FOX and ESPN broadcast in 720 (which is good because they cover a lot of sports). NBC, CBS, the rest broadcast in 1080i.

Hope this helps.

HD Hockey Guy

01-11-06, 10:01 AM

I too have an Xbox 360 and 5067W and I can say it looks absolutely fantastic! It will honestly blow you away.

I 2nd that... I spent the holidays playing PGR3, Tiger Woods golf, and Madden on my 5667 via VGA input and it looks incredible!

One thing I noticed though - if you set the input to pc widescreen mode versus standard 16:9 mode, you get less noticeable dithering of colors (easily seen on dvd menus via 360).

I like seeing the full screen rather than the small clipping on the right from the vga input so it doesn't bother me much - but just an FYI for some of you who might be using the xbox 360 via vga like me...

(now on with the searching on calibration topics in this thread) :o

murray32

01-11-06, 10:29 AM

HD Hockey Guy

01-11-06, 12:00 PM

My settings after calibration are (using "Custom"):

Contrast 60 (for HD and DVD, I have it at 70 for games)
Brightness 56 (perfect for all the test patterns...generated or via DVE)
Sharpness 10 (just to sharpen the news scrolls, it's at zero for DVD)
Color 54 (gives me near perfect blues and reds, green is off as referenced above)
Color Temp: Normal (after gray scale calibration)

My calibrator thought that contrast should be lower, but he prefers a darker picture. With the 720p generated contrast pattern, the only way to make the white box on an above white background "just barely" be visible required the contrast to be at around 90, which makes everything washed out. Not quite sure if I should have it up that high though, since the DLP's are very bright (in foot-lamberts) anyway. Know that every display is slightly different, and that calibration is what ultimately matters (MUST have grayscale correct before anything else can be right).

Maybe someone can help me with the contrast question on a calibrated set. Thanks!

Well after 5 months of viewing DVDs, playing games and watching HD cable feeds, I have decided I need those custom settings depending on what program type/ channel/source and time of day it is.

I play with the settings on this TV more than I care to admit, but it usually comes down to a tradeoff on brightness and contrast.

I watch ALOT of hockey games, which is why I wanted DLP + 720p native mode... for this I crank up the brightness to nearly 70 sometimes to get the whites really bright (ice) and let me see the contrast in the shadows. This is on SD broadcasts, when i go to HD feed, I'm in HD, 55-57 is perfect, with contrast around 80.

I leave sharpness around 60 overall and really don't notice alot of difference overall with it. I also watch in a very dark room with minimal light usually.

So to summarize:

Input - Program - Settings (Brightness/Contrast) (color mode)

HDMI-Movies - 55/80 (warm 1)
HDMI-Sports - 65/90 (standard)
Component-Movies- 60/80 (warm 1)
VGA-Games- 60/90 (standard)
VGA-Movies-60/95 (standard)

VGA movies you ask? Xbox 360 DVD player rather than my Sony DVD player via component. The picture is much cleaner on the Xbox, but the overall brightness (especially the whites) just isn't there for some reason... quirky.

I see alot of people saying the Movie Mode is the most accurate for color depth, but I honestly cannot stand the yellowish tint of the whites... and it is overall a darker picture, but as you can see from my settings - I like high contrast settings (from looking at my lcd monitor i guess).

Also - the best test program I've found for settings - HBO ROME. There are so many dark scenes lit by candles/torches you can really set your blacks correctly and detect the artifacts easily. There are usually plenty of bright panoramic outdoor shots to also ensure overall balance with your settings.

I am considering a professional calibration to take care of some really annoying items (hopefully) like the aforementioned dark scenes and black/gray artifacts, the mysterious ability for my screen to have ghosting (usually on DVD's and I think it's just the mastering process showing through), and some problems with white/yellow dithering during SD hockey broadcasts where the ice will have streaks that aren't there in HD.

One final thought - anyone irritated at the SD quality using component inputs... switch to HDMI - it makes the SD channels (especially the non-digital on TW here in Ohio) look 10x better. It eliminates those artifacts and allows the detail to come through mucho better.

Cheers all! Great forum.

MANNAXMAN

01-11-06, 03:24 PM

Lastly, seeing as there is only one HDMI slot I have to make a choice between my cable box (Scientific Atlanta Explorer 8300HD) or my HD-UpConversion DVD Player (LG LDA-511) that I just bought today from Best Buy for $150. I'm running Monster Cable ( 800 series) for both my component and HDMI hookups. Now since this particular DVD player upconverts through component I think I might be best served with running my HD cable box with the HDMI, any thoughts?

From what I have read on this thread, the HL-R5067W can do the upconversion, so you don't need your DVD player to upconvert to 720p. Try hooking up your DVD player each way and see which one provides better PQ. If the difference is negligible, that should make your decision all the easier to make. But, if your DVD player can upconvert through either HDMI or component, it shouldn't really matter how you connect it. For more information on the TV's ability to upconvert, just do a search on this thread for 'upconvert' or 'upconversion'.

mucker

01-11-06, 10:31 PM

Well after many days browsing this thread, I took the plunge and purchased my 5067W from Best Buy today. No interest 'til January 2008! Can't beat that. Circuit City's price is $118 less however and I will have to have them do the price matching and credit me back the difference when I go pick up the TV. I've installed a few of the older HLP and HLN models for customers at my old job and I can honestly say they are a solid display. Personally I'm stepping up from a 27" Sony Trinitron CRT so this is quite an upgrade for me. It's funny how the Samsung weighs about 20lbs LESS than the Sony; all that glass makes a big difference!

I noticed the viewing angle of this TV was not the best in the store, I don't know if this is because of the anti glare treatment or just the design. I also noticed the JVC ILA units had a much much wider viewing angle (they were also more expensive) so I might go back and compare/contrast.

thetroll76

01-11-06, 11:02 PM

[QUOTE=mucker]Well after many days browsing this thread, I took the plunge and purchased my 5067W from Best Buy today. No interest 'til January 2008! Can't beat that. Circuit City's price is $118 less however and I will have to have them do the price matching and credit me back the difference when I go pick up the TV.

Mucker, I just purchased my HL-R5067W from Best Buy on monday and saw the ad on Circuit City's website for $118 less. I printed out the advertised price and brought it into Best Buy the next morning and they refunded me the difference plus 10% which came out to $140. I must say, people can say what they want about large chains and normally I would agree but this is not the case with Best Buy. I purchased a CRT based rear projection TV (Toshiba 50H81) from Best Buy in march of '02 along with the optional 4 year service plan. After numerous problems with the digital convergance drifting on me and after 4 service calls I demanded a replacement as stated in my service plan. Last friday a customer service rep from Best Buy called me informing me that I had been approved for a replacement. I was told that after the weekend the store would receive my authorization and that on Monday I could go pick out my new TV. I went in on Monday expecting to receive the newer Toshiba model of my TV, but to my surprise the girl at the customer service counter handed me a Best Buy gift card after proccessing my replacement claim. What surprised me even more was when she told me the amount on the card, $1,971.00, the FULL AMOUNT that I had paid nearly 4 years ago!!! Now things changed when I realized I could choose any TV and pay the difference. Since it was so soon after christmas money is tight so I narrowed it down to the Samsung DLP, Sony LCD, and the JVC HD-ILA.
Initially I was most impressed with the Samsung but was leaning towards the Sony because of the extra component input. After talking extensively with the salesman, who was surprisingly extremely knowledgable, told me to go with my initial instinct and get the Samsung. It also didn't hurt that with the sale price and price match the Samsung was over $400 cheaper. Now I am anxiously awaiting my delivery, not 'till Friday afternoon. Hopefully I made the right choice! In the end I must say that my experience with Best Buy has been the best experience I've ever had with a store, chain or otherwise, and would highly recommend them to anyone!

mucker

01-11-06, 11:50 PM

I can't say my chain store experience has been that great. It took a full 10 minutes of me standing there before any of the sales staff even acknowledged my presence. They were all standing in the corner BS-ing about god knows what. The kid who ended up finalizing the sale with me was pretty good though.

rick bie

01-12-06, 11:43 AM

tanzbodeli

01-12-06, 11:47 AM

Well, after 1.5 years of researching and dithering and waffling, I finally bit the bullet and bought a HLR 5067 this past weekend. Took delivery yesterday.

By nature, I'm a bit of a skeptic, so I have been taking all the reports of these TVs as being "awesome" (etc) with a large grain of salt.

This is my first HDTV experience, and I was even reluctant to plug the TV in, until I got my upscaling DVD player (Oppo), and ordered HD service (still haven't decided on cable or satellite).

Well, my wife convinced me to fire the TV up with my old Sony DVD player, which isn't even progressive scan. I was reluctant because I didn't want the first experience with the TV to be marred by poor content.

After the TV and DVD player were setup correctly (to all those upgrading from 4:3 TV, you might need to change the video output setting in your DVD player like I did, otherwise the output picture might only take up 25% of your screen :) ).... I was completely blown away.

I watched Fellowship of the Ring and was utterly amazed at how beautiful the picture was. The only setting I changed was to put the picture into "Movie" mode (rather than Dynamic, Standard, etc.).

I can now breathe a huge sigh of relief. I was dreading buyer's remorse, but I can say now that I've definitely banished those demons.

I do have some questions for anyone who knows... do DLPs have a "break-in" period, in which I shouldn't mess too much with the picture settings? Is there a proper way to "use" the TV... meaning, if I turn it on, should I leave it on at least an hour... or if I turn it off, don't turn it back on until lamp has time to cool (which is recommended for many DLP front projectors), etc... basic operations stuff I may not have picked up along the way.

Oh, also, I noticed a little bit of geometry errors, sort of a pincushion effect. Is this due to a slight (inevitable I assume) bowing of the glass outward, or is it an actual mistake by the light engine? (all vert and horizontal bars are slightly bowed inward... so slightly that my wife couldn't tell).

thanks,

Chris

Hi-Rez!

01-12-06, 11:49 AM

Secondly, and this is where I'm sure I'll sound stupid; I was always under the impression that 1080i is the best resolution for a High Def picture, yet this TV's native mode is 720p (whatever that means). Does this mean that this TV will not do 1080i or am I just an idiot?

A "native display resolution" means that the set was made to scale and display any input signal to the display format it was designed for. Micro-displays have single display formats. Only a few early HD CRTs had multiple format capability.

It's my understanding that the 1080i format has no advantage over the 720P format. It can only be seen on HD CRT televisions. Those sets scale 720P HD broadcasted signals to the sets native 1080i display resolution. With micro-displays it's just the opposite. Most are 720P displays that scale 1080i HD broadcasted signals to the set's native 720P display resolution. The new 1080P sets are scaling everything.

I have seen no convincing evidence that 1080i somehow looks sharper or clearer than 720P. In fact, I think just the opposte is true. I firmly believe that HD micro-displays have a clear crisp edge over HD CRT displays. If you want to attribute that to progressive scanning or display technology advances the answer is probably yes or both.

Those of us who own the HL-R5067W are not really missing any HD resolution with regard to available content today. You may notice that with stations broadcasting a 720P HD program the picture is quite exceptional as it matches our sets native display resolution exactly. With stations broadcasting a 1080i program you will strain to see a substantial difference as a result of scaling. That's because these sets have an excellent scaler chip.

I think we are all in a good spot in the HD evolution.

Personally, I don't think the new 1080P sets have a tremendous jump in resolution at the 50 inch size, especially given the same HD signals available today. The big advantage to 1080P is it's ability to look just as good on larger displays at greater viewing distances. I'm not saying the PQ is not better with 1080P on a 50 size. It's just not worth a grand to me, given the HD content today.

The big jump is yet to come with Samsung's 2006 Generation 7 true 1080P non-wobulated DMD sets. With the 3 DMD chip design found only in expensive high end front projection systems until now, the color wheel goes away. All gaming issues have been addressed with a new "Game Mode" and 1080P inputs. Lamp life issues will be a thing of the past with the new 20,000+ hour backlit L.E.D. illumination design. I'm saving up for one of those when the price drops in 07.

Hi-Rez!

01-12-06, 12:07 PM

I do have some questions for anyone who knows... do DLPs have a "break-in" period, in which I shouldn't mess too much with the picture settings? Is there a proper way to "use" the TV... meaning, if I turn it on, should I leave it on at least an hour... or if I turn it off, don't turn it back on until lamp has time to cool (which is recommended for many DLP front projectors), etc... basic operations stuff I may not have picked up along the way.

Oh, also, I noticed a little bit of geometry errors, sort of a pincushion effect. Is this due to a slight (inevitable I assume) bowing of the glass outward, or is it an actual mistake by the light engine? (all vert and horizontal bars are slightly bowed inward... so slightly that my wife couldn't tell).

thanks,

Chris

Here is a segment from my post on page 55 regarding lamp care. There is no break-in period.

Lamp strikes require 5000 volts (5kv) from the ballast. After that a pulsing 65 volts will keep the arc lit in the highly compressed mercury gas atmosphere. Obviously, each high voltage strike takes a toll on the two electrodes. A re-strike within seconds from a hot-on state is fine as the lamp will fire almost instantly from the hot gas. Beyond 60 seconds from a hot-on state the electrodes will still be hot, but the gas won't be and the ballast will hammer them with 5kv until the arc egnites through the gas again. This is the state where a re-strike can cause the electrodes to burn back slightly increasing the 1mm gap. That might be the "12 hours" you heard about. It's not good. After 60 seconds from hot-on it's best to let the lamp cool off completely. (30 minutes or more) Cold electrodes take the 5kv better than hot ones. As for not running the set continuously beyond 10 hours, that recommendation is not in the manual and retail stores along with myself exceed that daily. Some stores run them 24/7 and a few "open box" owners have found over 10,000 hours on their lamps. I'm beginning to think that constant on is better than off and on.

My information comes from researching Phillips UHP Mercury Lamps R & D pdf white papers.

Here is a segment of my post on page 54 regarding the pincushion effect.

I've seen some references to bowing of the black bars and pc over-scan.
The only geometry adjustment I see in the SM is vertical and horizontal centering.

The bowing is actually a normal pincushion effect. It has something to do with the way the screen fits to the cabinet. Take a knuckle, rather than making a fingerprint, and push the screen at the edge of the black bar. It will have an effect. There isn't an electronic adjustment for it that I'm aware of. Mine is slight and not really too bothersome.

Hi-Rez!

01-12-06, 12:31 PM

I have gone to different HT websites and so far this appears to be the only thread concerning the HCR4755W. Is it due to newness or is Samsung considered low grade? I just purchased this set in Nov. and its my first rear projection set(previous was Zenith 36" direct view CRT), so I am still going thru the adjustment(mentally and physically). I am just puzzled at the lack of info on it anywhere, I tried to get a service manual and was told it is n't available to the public.

RickB

Well...Rick...you're in a Samsung DLP micro-display thread.
If I'm not mistaking, your set is an older rear projection CRT set. I believe Samsung made them in 2001-02 time frame. I did find an archived reference to the HRC4355W on their website. It's the same set with the same manual.

Here's your manual!

http://downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200506/20050618150909828_BP68-00334B-01Eng_0531.pdf

If that link doesn't work maybe this one will.

http://www.samsung.com/support/productsupport/download/FileView.aspx?cttfileid=430798&type=TV&typecode=&subtype=Rear+Projection+TV&subtypecode=&cmssubtypecode=&model=HC-R4355W&filetype=UM&language=&LSSI=/include/SSI/us_left/LMenu_TV_RearProjectionTV.sec&RSSI=/include/SSI/us_right/RMenu_TV.sec

I don't think Samsung is low grade!

sunrain

01-12-06, 02:34 PM

Hi-Rez!

01-12-06, 05:50 PM

Just a short and somewhat odd question.

What kind of feet are on the bottom of the HLRxx67W series? Are they rubber or hard plastic? I'm wondering if I should put down any kind of protective covering on my furniture. I suppose I'll find out tomorrow when my set is delivered, but I thought I'd ask anyway. Thanks.

Mine isn't exactly convenient to look under, but it sits so completely flat that I doubt it has any feet whatsoever. It appears that the entire bottom of the plastic cabinet sits flush to a flat surface.

jkircos

01-12-06, 06:49 PM

kcartwr2

01-12-06, 07:50 PM

I just purchased the Samsung HLR4266W from Best Buy. Do you think that I should purchase the 4 year service plan just in case? Also should I invest in an HDMI or DVI cord to connect the TV to my Comcast HD digital cable box? Would it be a vast improvement over the component video wires?

The short answers, in my opinion, are probably, and probably not

The longer answer on question one is that large TVs seem to have more problems than smaller CRTs. My story is remarkably similar to thetroll76's - I bought a Sony 46" CRT projection set from Best Buy, along with the 4-year warranty, and 2 1/2 years into owning the set it developed convergence issues and I was able to apply the full purchase price towards any set I wanted (I chose the HLR-5067W).

If I didn't have the warranty, I would have had to pay for all the repair attempts, and just keep living with it or eat the cost. I can't say that the Samsung DLPs will be as troublesome (I hope not), but I've heard that one lamp replacement frequently covers the cost of the warranty.

On number two, I think it depends on what else is/will be connected to your set. I'm running a cable box to it through component, and the cable box puts out 720p so it works fine for me at that. I was getting lip sync issues at other resolutions, and through my 480p DVD player, so I bought an upconverting DVD player (Panasonic S97), and it only upconverts via HDMI, so my HDMI connection is used there.

If you don't have anything else that needs the HDMI, you might try it, but otherwise I'd leave it open for some other device that would benifit from it more.

I'm not a pro, so take this for what it's worth, just my opinion based on a little experience.

midnightman

01-12-06, 11:05 PM

HD Hockey Guy

01-13-06, 09:19 AM

I just purchased the Samsung HLR4266W from Best Buy. Do you think that I should purchase the 4 year service plan just in case? Also should I invest in an HDMI or DVI cord to connect the TV to my Comcast HD digital cable box? Would it be a vast improvement over the component video wires?

YES YES YES YES YES - Definately yes.... I started watching programming with component cables until my HDMI DVD player came in and I connected it - then got curious what component looked like on the upconversion, so I swapped the 2 - cable box to HDMI, DVD to component. I saw NO difference in the DVD quality, but saw a HUGE difference in the HD cablebox quality - especially the non-HD programming - and the most quality improvement came on the non-digital standard def channels.

with component, I got tons of artifacts and distortions on SD non-digital channels, but with the HDMI, it cleans it all up and you just get this sorta fuzzy noise like line noise or something that isn't distracting at all - just you notice it's not HD quality but for me it's much less distracting than those annoying artifacts and big blothes around the edges of details. Also text is much cleaner to read via HDMI imo.

I turned around and sold the HD-upconversion dvd player on ebay without the HDMI cable because I saw almost NO improvement over my standard progressive scan DVD player. We all know the Sammy upconverts to 720p anyhow - and I thought if the DVD player output 720p it would increase the detail even more, but not so - at least not to be noticeable enough to warrant another $130 for a special player... but the HDMI cable for my cablebox was worth it!

Go get and HDMI cable and try it out - you'll love it - and if not - just return the cable and get your $$$ back.

Marty D.

01-13-06, 11:33 AM

Is there anyway to get the built in TV guide to update the scheduleing for digital and HD content using a cable card. Now that I have the cable card instead of the original cable box i do't have any tv listing for these channels. To me it kind of defeats the benefit of a cable card slot. Am I missing something?

Also, I was thinking about getting a recorder to use with the tv. But again, will I be limited in scheduleing recording because I have a cable card. What device works well with this tv other than getting DVR service from the cable company.

I downloaded this thread to read later but wanted to know if anyone was willing to shed some light.

videobruce

01-13-06, 11:46 AM

All you veteran Microdisplay owners, please vote on lamp life here;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=629175

rick bie

01-13-06, 01:00 PM

Sorry, I posted to the wrong thread. Actually the set is a HC-R4755W, thanks for the info Hi-Rez.

JohnnytheSkin

01-13-06, 05:11 PM

YES YES YES YES YES - Definately yes.... I started watching programming with component cables until my HDMI DVD player came in and I connected it - then got curious what component looked like on the upconversion, so I swapped the 2 - cable box to HDMI, DVD to component. I saw NO difference in the DVD quality, but saw a HUGE difference in the HD cablebox quality - especially the non-HD programming - and the most quality improvement came on the non-digital standard def channels.

with component, I got tons of artifacts and distortions on SD non-digital channels, but with the HDMI, it cleans it all up and you just get this sorta fuzzy noise like line noise or something that isn't distracting at all - just you notice it's not HD quality but for me it's much less distracting than those annoying artifacts and big blothes around the edges of details. Also text is much cleaner to read via HDMI imo.

I turned around and sold the HD-upconversion dvd player on ebay without the HDMI cable because I saw almost NO improvement over my standard progressive scan DVD player. We all know the Sammy upconverts to 720p anyhow - and I thought if the DVD player output 720p it would increase the detail even more, but not so - at least not to be noticeable enough to warrant another $130 for a special player... but the HDMI cable for my cablebox was worth it!

Go get and HDMI cable and try it out - you'll love it - and if not - just return the cable and get your $$$ back.

I would like some more info about this. I have my HDMI input on the HL-R5067W tied up currently with my Sony upconverting DVD player, ISF calibrated for 720p. I have my Motorola HD DVR hooked up to component, calibrated for 720p. Anyway, if I switch the inputs, will I have to have my Component that will then hold the DVD calibrated to 480p (my DVD does NOT upconvert over Component)? Should I leave the calibration as is, since the TV upconverts to 720p? Is the TV's upconversion different from the conversion done by a DVD player? Lastly, will I notice any signal degradation using a DVI-HDMI cable, since my box only has a DVI output?

Sorry for the questions, but hopefully someone can make sense of it and answer my queries. Thanks!

Davion

01-13-06, 05:39 PM

JohnnytheSkin

01-13-06, 08:39 PM

Okay, first time poster. I am totally new to owning a decent TV. I want to get DVE to calibrate the set. Which version do I need? I am going to buy from deep discount, but I need to know if I need the NTCS or PAL version. I have the HLR5067W. Is there an HDTV version?

Thanks

If you are in North America, then you want NTSC. PAL is for Europe. And there isn't an HD version (yet) since no players output HD video (only upconverted 480i). This probably will change within a couple years though, when one of the next gen HD DVD formats takes hold.

You should still be able to get a good calibration, if nothing else, better than the out-of-box settings, whether you use a progressive scan DVD or an upcoverting player. Good luck!

Hi-Rez!

01-13-06, 11:32 PM

I would like some more info about this. I have my HDMI input on the HL-R5067W tied up currently with my Sony upconverting DVD player, ISF calibrated for 720p. I have my Motorola HD DVR hooked up to component, calibrated for 720p. Anyway, if I switch the inputs, will I have to have my Component that will then hold the DVD calibrated to 480p (my DVD does NOT upconvert over Component)? Should I leave the calibration as is, since the TV upconverts to 720p? Is the TV's upconversion different from the conversion done by a DVD player? Lastly, will I notice any signal degradation using a DVI-HDMI cable, since my box only has a DVI output?

Sorry for the questions, but hopefully someone can make sense of it and answer my queries. Thanks!

Personally, I think you have the perfect arrangement. I wouldn't swap a thing. You are already calibrated for the devices on their present inputs. There's no harm if you want to experiment, but I'm sure you will find no significant difference. I can't think of any reason why that fellow saw any big difference on HDMI, especially with standard def unless something was funky with his cable, connectors or the box. Makes no sense whatsoever. Component cables will carry analog better than any HDMI connection. Standard def is HDMI's usual weak point.

Folks who have used HDMI from cable boxes have reported varied results from excellent to no difference to darkening to flashy lines to poor standard def to etc.
DVI to HDMI will not introduce anything new. It's just a pin-out change.

If it looks good I wouldn't touch it.

thetroll76

01-14-06, 12:45 AM

Well my new set is finally up and running (after 2+ hours to set up the stand and then another 6 for me to reinstall my entire Theatre room). Overall I'm pretty impressed with the HL-R5067W's performance but I do have some issues that maybe someone can help me solve. First of all, I'm having a hard time noticing a huge jump in PQ over my Toshiba 50H81 HD RPCRT, I find that odd because everyone I talked to said that this TV would be a major upgrade. Secondly I've noticed that my X-Box (original not 360, hooked up thru component w/ Monster Cable) looks considerably worse, in fact I might go as far to say that it's downright horrible. This I also find surprising since the salesman, also a gamer who owns the same TV and X-Box, assured me that I was going to be blown away by the picture. Not only am I not blown away but I think the picture on my 20 inch 10 yr. old tube TV w/ regular a/v hookups looks better. Could it possibly me settings? If someone else owns this TV and the X-Box and is not experiencing the same problem as me maybe you could let me know what your settings are or what the problem could be. Thanks.

Eace

01-14-06, 06:32 AM

I just got my SamSung DLP HLR4667W today.

It is the single biggest dissapointment in my entire life.
I thought I did enough research (2wks) by going to stores, checking online reviews, talking to people. Somehow through all of that NO ONE mentioned to me how bad regular TV looks.

Ontop of that a 46" is entirely too big for my apartment, but that's my own fault. I guess I got carried away. I've been in the Army overseas for 4 years and being back in the states with the kind of consumerism availble I guess it kind of went to my head.

I was REALLY excited about this TV.

I went out and purchased an upconvert DVD player (cheap toshiba) and a HDMI cable and tested a bunch of movies.

The picture quality with the DVD is pretty good, but I'm not convinced it's amazing.....though I am very impressed with some movies like the Good, the bad, the ugly, Star Wars, etc. But I'm sure this is largely due to the fact that it's on a huge screen.
The really bad thing is that at 16:9 movies don't use the whole screen. ALLLLLL that wasted space! What did I need a 46" T.V. for?

When I saw regualr cable on that TV I nearly went nuts. I thought for SURE it would look at least as good as my CRT, but man what a drop in quality.
And HDTV? what, a whole whopping 20 channels most of which I don't watch anyway? And at $16.00 more a month? But I knew I wasn't getting HDTV.

PS2.....
ANOTHER huge dissapointment. I even bought component cables and sadly, I am not happy with the picture. It is not crystal clear, it's just...BIG. I haven't tried it with normal cables, but if it looks worse than now, I'll probably just put the PS2 away.

The REALLY sad thing is that I bought it online and have no way of returning or exchanging it.

I should have forgot all about this new DLP craze and went ahead and bought a regular high quality widescreen TV that was smaller in size.
I would have been very happy I think especially since regular TV and PS2 games would've looked fantastic compared to this overpriced SamSung paperweight.

Tomorrow is Saturday and I plan on doing a WHOLE bunch of testing. I'm going to fine tune pictures on channels, swap out VCRs and DVD players as well as their cables, swap out cables for PS2, read every bit of the manual, call Amazon and see about an exchange perhaps (though I doubt very seriously this will work). I might even set up HDTV JUST to get SOMETHING out of this Frankenstein.

Man, the whole experience pains me deeply. It's not the money by any means and I even saved about $700.00 - $1,000.00 (depending on where you buy), it's the fact that I thought I was ushering in a new era of entertainment and I feel hoaxed, lied to, cheated and most of all....foolish.

If there's anything anyone can do for me, advice, links, possible options, please find it in your goodness to help me. If nothing else help out a fellow American who served his country with distinction, bravery and honor.

e-mails are totally welcome

Sincerely,
Eddy

Hi-Rez!

01-14-06, 10:42 AM

Wow Eace,

That's a lot of disappointment.

Let's start out with what works. You say DVD's are "pretty good" from a Toshiba DVD on HDMI. You will not be amazed because either the DVD player or the set is scaling the 480i signal to the set's only display resolution, which is 720P. While very good it's not Enhanced definition or High definition. However, it tells us that the set is working properly at least on the HDMI connection.

Size is an adjustment for most people. While the 46 inch is a very good size for small rooms it still scales standard definition trashy cable signal to a 720P size. The scaling doesn't clean up a trashy signal. You see cable for what it really is. A tube tv will compensate such signals and somewhat hide the defects in low resolution and smaller size. You didn't by your Samsung to hide defective signal in low resolution. I'm not sure just how close you have to sit to the set, but if it's closer than 8 feet it's too close for standard definition. The set was designed to blow you away with digital high def signals and I don't think you have seen that yet. When you do your outlook will change completely.

Better signal is the answer. Getting away from standard def trashy analog cable is the best solution. Subscribe to digital cable if you can. I don't recommend the CableCard approach, but a digital converter box will bring digital (ED) Enhanced Definition local network channels (abc, nbc, cbs, fox, pbs, and others) to your set. These channels are much different from standard analog VHF. They are sharp and clear. While most daytime programs are still in 4:3 format at night many primetime shows are in true HD and 16:9 format. You do not have to subscribe to an HD channel package to get these ED networks. A basic digital cable package will include them. They are free using an off air UHF antenna if you are close enough to the transmitters. Enter your zip code only into this website to see what digital channels are available in your area for free. www.antennaweb.org It will tell you the compass direction and the distance you are from the tower. You should be able to connect an indoor UHF antenna to the "Air" input and allow the digital tuner Auto Setup to find your local digital channels. The digital difference is night and day from analog. You can try to connect your cable straight to the "Cable" input and run the digital Auto Setup to see if you get them or if they are scrambled in your area. They might just be there. They will have offset channel locations and may read something like channel 4.1 or 625.2

If you feel you must watch any analog standard def signal remember that standard cable boxes are notorious for adding their own trash to an already trashy standard def signal. Bypass the box. Call the cable company and stay on them to clean up the analog signal in your building. They can make it better if you push the issue up the ladder. The whole idea of stepping up to an HD set is to get away from analog signal, but it can be made to look better.

Your PS2 was made for a tube tv. Don't expect it to look great at 720P. Until you upgrade to PS3 when available or switch to xBox 360 you can look for progressive scan versions of games in 480P that will look much better. Your set has outdated your present game box, though.

Hope this helps!
Best regards and thank you for your service to our country!

midnightman

01-15-06, 10:35 AM

Anyone is using CableCARD with this TV set? The manual says ‘If the CableCARD is inserted into the “CableCARD” slot on the rear panel, “Cable” and “Air+Cable” are not available.’

Does that mean I have to connect the cable to “Air” connection if using CableCARD?

jaberman

01-15-06, 12:14 PM

This is my first post, maybe someone out there can give me some insight. Please bear with me.

I got my first HL-R6167 in December. Everything was great, except for excessive screen smudging, which I read about in this forum. I decided to exchange the tv for a new one (I was still in my 30 day return period).

I just got my second set yesterday, and I am bothered by a couple of items.

1. I think this set emits much more noise than the last one I had. It has a subtle whirring noice, I don't know if that is the color wheel, but I am wondering if this is is a red flag or problem, and I should return the tv on that basis alone. Do some of these sets make more noise than others?

2. There are a few marks on the inside of the screen, not sure if they are on the screen itself or on the mirror or whatever. One is about a 1/2 inch long black line in the middle of the screen, which is clearly noticable. Probably debris or something, is there an easy fix, or should I just exchange this one for another tv and not bother?

3. For some reason, I think I see increased pixelization with this set versus the last one I had, even in HD broadcasts. I remember when I first got my dlp, I thought that I was seeing lots of pixelization, but I got used to it and thought that my set's picture did not differ that much from the store. This one might be different, or it might be in my head. Has anyone dealt with the pixelization issue? I don't know if this is the same as the "screen door" effect, and I just don't know if this is something that is wrong, or just me being too picky.

I would appreciate any responses you might have. Thanks.

UCSB

01-15-06, 12:50 PM

stumacdo

01-16-06, 11:44 AM

HD Hockey Guy

01-16-06, 12:27 PM

Based on advice in this thread (and others), I went into the SM of my HLR5067W this weekend and tweaked the gamma level from 2 down to 0. It seemed to remove some of the macroblocking I'd been saying, but wow did it definitely make the picture seem substantially darker. Even trying to crank up some of the other settings (outside of the SM) couldn't brighten the picture up at all. I know that picture is a highly personal choice, but has anybody else felt that by moving the gamma down to zero it substantially darkened the picture ? I'm thinking about setting it to 1 (maybe a compromise) and see what happens. As an aside, lot's of interesting sub-menu's within the SM, just didn't have the heart to really start messing with them.

How to you access the service menu to look at these things? Is it simply a matter of openeing the panel on the back? I'm very hesitant to do anything that could void my warranty.

mucker

01-16-06, 12:56 PM

Well I finally got my 5067W up and running Saturday night. So far I am in love but I have one minor problem: there is an smudge on the inside of the screen in the lower right hand corner. It's only noticeable when the screen is black but since I know it's there it's annoying me to no end. I read another post about opening up the side and reaching in there and wiping it off with a microfiber cloth? Sounds tricky.

Also: The blacks just don't seem to be black - I've tried turning the brightness all the way down and the contrast up to 60-70 and turning the gamma down to 1 in the service menu. It just seems like there's no way around that. Even when there is no source material it seems like it's a really dark grey. I guess this is just par for the course. DVDs look fantastic anyway. This is the first time I've had a component video cable hooked up to my DVD player. I'm wondering if it's best to leave progressive scan "off" on the DVD player and let the TV do the upconversion?

crbierman

01-16-06, 01:48 PM

aircasper

01-16-06, 01:58 PM

Those do sound like the smudges that afflicted earlier model Samsung TVs and typically fall within about 3" of the sides of the screen and go away within about an hour. The problem is described on the Samsung web site and you can get probably get Samsung out to replace the screen with one using a different design. Samsung claimed that a new screen design was used in this year's HLR models that fixed this problem. If not, then I suspect that now we're into Winter we'll hear a lot more complaints about screen smudges just like occurred last winter.

AkaStp, your prediction was correct. It's gotten cooler out here in Northern Cal and so my smudges have reappeared. I posted a message last year about how I was experiencing these same smudges, but ultimately decided to see if they would go away with time. They went away during the summer/fall months, but now that it's cooler, they've reappeared. I saw the info on Samsung's website regarding this problem and gave a call to Samsung's customer service this morning. After explaining the problem, the customer service rep put me on hold for a few minutes, and then came back and said that there can be problems with the tv goes from cold to hot temperatures quickly and said i should try moving the tv to another room or try to maintain a more steady temperature around the tv. Needless to say, I thought the suggestion was a little crazy. I'm not talking about big temperature swings here. My house is usually in the low 60's during the winter months, which is when the smudges appear. What do i have to do, jack up the furnace until it's a constant 75 degrees in the house? Or better yet, lug around the 50" tv to find a warmer spot in the house? (sorry for my mini-rant :) I pointed out how the Samsung website even points out this problem and how Samsung instructs consumers to contact Customer Service to set up a service appointment, but the customer rep said that's only for tv's manufactured before February '05, and mine was manufactured in April according to the sticker on the back of the tv. Long story short, the customer rep said I need to call back tomorrow and ask for a Field Engineer.

Is anyone else seeing these smudges on a set that was manufactured after February '05? Have you been able to get Samsung to fix the problem? TIA!

stumacdo

01-16-06, 02:33 PM

Is anyone else seeing these smudges on a set that was manufactured after February '05? Have you been able to get Samsung to fix the problem? TIA!

I got mine in August of 2005 and immediately called Samsung when I noticed the same smudging problem. They stated it was a known problem and they would replace the screen. Got a call from a tech a few days later, they ordered a replacement screen and showed up within 1 month to replace it free of charge. Believe mine was manufactured in May, 2005. Haven't had a problem since.

aircasper

01-16-06, 02:49 PM

I got mine in August of 2005 and immediately called Samsung when I noticed the same smudging problem. They stated it was a known problem and they would replace the screen. Got a call from a tech a few days later, they ordered a replacement screen and showed up within 1 month to replace it free of charge. Believe mine was manufactured in May, 2005. Haven't had a problem since.

Thanks stumacdo! Now I can tell Samsung that others who have post-feb '05 tvs are having this same problem and are getting it fixed by Samsung in case they give me the runaround tomorrow when I speak with the Field Engineer.

Pye in LA

01-16-06, 02:56 PM

My set lives in a media center standing on a raised platform of my living room. It's really the only configuration that makes sense with my geography but the platform adds 5 1/2" to the picture height.

I can live with this but in the best of all worlds, I'd shim the back edge of the set and tilt it forward, say, 4 or 5 degrees, thereby improving the picture quality.

My concern is that:

a) this may throw the color wheel out of alignment and/or cause it to become unbalanced.

and

b) I may place too much stress on the speaker portion of the set.

Any thoughts?

scwt47

01-16-06, 03:47 PM

I just got an HLR 4266W and I can't figure out the PIP function and didn't find a HLRxx66w thread. Isn't the 66 almost identical to the 67 with the exception of the comb filter?

If the 66W and 67W are close, can someone explain how I can view PIP for TV programs.
I've read that you can't view a digital signal with PIP, so what can you hook up to make it work?
Here is my current set up:
I split the Comcast cable out of the wall, one going to the Motorola 6412 dual tuner DVR cable box and one directly to the TV.
I have a DVI - HDMI hook up from the box to the TV. The box does not have a cable output (coaxial?), but does have S-video, Component and composite out puts.
What should I hook up?
Thanks

Hi:
I also have the HLR4266W, about 2 months old now. The -66 differs from the -67 in the following ways
- the PIP tuner is "semi" dual...that is there is no second digital tuner so the TV can display only analog channels; see bottom of p.62 in the manual
- there is no TV Guide feature built in
- there is no 3D Y/C comb filter, as you noted, just a 3 line comb filter
- fewer input jacks....no IEEE 1394, no D-sub PC, no PC audio

But you get everything else the larger sets (46inch on up) have....same resolution, tuner, audio power, chipset. AND you get the highest brightness per unit area of the entire line. The HLR4667W matches our output of 1000cd/m2, but the bigger HLRs go down from there as these all use the same lamp and light engine....the larger the screen the fewer photons per unit of screen area. The HLR6167W puts out 40% lower brightness at just 600cd/m2. Total amount of light is the similar, but it is spread out over a larger display.

So don't worry about the PIP setup too much, it is working just as advertised....see the Samsung online brochure. Hope your picture looks just as good as mine (off-air antenna gets excellent HD here).

Good luck!

MANNAXMAN

01-16-06, 04:51 PM

Based on advice in this thread (and others), I went into the SM of my HLR5067W this weekend and tweaked the gamma level from 2 down to 0. It seemed to remove some of the macroblocking I'd been saying, but wow did it definitely make the picture seem substantially darker. Even trying to crank up some of the other settings (outside of the SM) couldn't brighten the picture up at all. I know that picture is a highly personal choice, but has anybody else felt that by moving the gamma down to zero it substantially darkened the picture ? I'm thinking about setting it to 1 (maybe a compromise) and see what happens. As an aside, lot's of interesting sub-menu's within the SM, just didn't have the heart to really start messing with them.

I tried making the same adjustment before and got the same results, so I set the Gamma at 1. I didn't really notice too much difference between a Gamma setting of 2 or 1, so I put it back to 2. The only other adjustment I did make was to the Index setting. I had to make this adjustment because of poor PQ during dark scenes. I reduced my Index setting from 50 (default) to 42.

Marty D.

01-16-06, 05:38 PM

When you say smudges you aren't referring to the light spot in the center of the screen when to TV is off are you? In the manual it says that this is normal. On my tv it is in the center and speads out slightly as it goes up. Looks like the screen is still hot from the light but it is not. More like a reflection.

On another note, I commented on the cable card being seemingly pointless if I can't get any channel guide either from my cable company or the built in one for Digital and HD channels. Is this correct. If so, what is the value of the cable card?

baron293

01-16-06, 07:01 PM

On another note, I commented on the cable card being seemingly pointless if I can't get any channel guide either from my cable company or the built in one for Digital and HD channels. Is this correct. If so, what is the value of the cable card?

This doesnt keep you from enjoying your digital cable, without a settop box does it? You just have to go through and figure out what chanels are what, right? Doesnt make it useless, just doesnt tell you that chanel 12 is "Fox" etc...

Buck Shot

01-16-06, 09:03 PM

Hi everyone,

I'm new to the forum but I wanted to post for a couple of reasons. First, I'd like to thank everyone on here for sharing their knowledge and experience. I first considered purchasing the HL-R4667W when I saw it on sale for a terrific price and during the course of researching the set, I came across this forum and found it to be the single best source for unbiased information about the XX67 series. When I found the 5067 for less than $200 more than the 4667 and confirmed it would fit in my media niche, I jumped on it.

Secondly, I'd like to give my observations about the set. Now, I'm no professional so please bear with any naive comments I may make! First, some background: To be honest, I'm never very impressed with HDTV displays when I'm at a big box retailer. The image always appears grainy to me, with a lot of artifacts and picture degradation like you would see in a .jpg file that's been compressed a bunch of times. Sometimes I wonder if they're even using an HD signal to demo the sets. Part of it, I know, is standing five or six feet from a set that should be seen from 10-15 feet away but in any case I've always found myself mumbling, "I don't know what the big deal about HDTV is." Add to that the limited selection of HD broadcasts available after hearing how it'll be the next big thing for at least 5 years and I've always been left thinking HD is some type of scam to get us all to pay thousands of $$$ for new sets, fancy cables, new state-of-the-art DVD players, etc. HOWEVER, I'm getting older and I have to say, my old workhorse 32" tube TV seems to be getting smaller to my aging eyes. It was time to upgrade.

Enter the 5067. Even demo'ing it at the store, I was marginally impressed. Honestly, my thoughts were along the lines of, "Well, it's not terrible" instead of, "Wow! That's great!" But the price was right, and the eyes (and the wife!) were all for it. So I brought it home and placed it in the niche. I have to say, it looks fabulous in the niche, like the niche was custom built. The "home theater expert" salesman promised I wouldn't have any overheating problems, which was my main concern about the exactness of the fit, but I defer to all of you. I have about a 1/4" along the top and about an inch on either side of the set. Behind the set is a good 20 inches, give or take, and a small, 2" diameter hole cut through to allow access to another open-air niche below. Do any of you foresee overheating issues?

And now to the meat of the post. I turned the set on and was instantly impressed with the brightness and clarity of the picture, sitting approx. 12 feet from the set. After enjoying the set for an hour or so, I figured I'd throw in my copy of Video Essentials (which I received free from Toshiba after buying a first-gen DVD player for $400 what seems like ten years ago!) and tune it up as best I could. What a difference. I really can't say enough about the importance of tuning the picture, and again, I'm not a professional and probably didn't do the greatest job. But yikes! I'm now enormously impressed with the picture quality. Even, standard definition football, which I've always found to be one of the worst-looking broadcasts on HD sets, looks very sharp. I'm amazed that something as simple as the Brightness level can make such a large impact on the picture. For example, I just happened to be watching the old western "Johnny Guitar". There is a scene where a ranch is burning in the night. With the Brightness too high, the black of the night looked HORRIBLE, super grainy, changing shades constantly and seemingly affecting the color portions of the picture with distortion. After tweaking the Brightness via Video Essentials, the quality was DRAMATICALLY better. The black was BLACK, with no graininess, nothing affecting the overall picture. Amazing.

Overall, I'd have to rate my satisfaction at the moment as very high. I purchased the set for a terrific price expecting middling quality but have been very pleasantly surprised. As a matter of fact, I'm going to wrap this up and go watch some TV!!

midnightman

01-16-06, 10:50 PM

thetroll76

01-17-06, 12:12 AM

Hi-Rez!

01-17-06, 10:27 AM

I finally saw the dreaded "rainbow effect" and now it seems like I can't stop seeing it. My question to anyone else that sees it is this, will I ever stop seeing it? I know that is a general question and that everybody is different but I absolutely love this TV otherwise and would hate to return it. If I do return it I'll probably get the 50 inch Sony LCD, but I hear about the screen door effect with the LCD's so that's why I got the HL-R5067W instead. Any and all opinions on the "rainbow and screen door effects" would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.

The color triplet you have "finally" seen is a result of white on dark contrast, rapid eye movement or darting eyes, and ambient room light. You have figured out how to see them and you can teach yourself not to look for them. Very few people have uncontrollable rapid eye movement, but it is a characteristic that a few folks have. They won't ever stop seeing them. You can increase the light in the room and control your eye movement. It's best if you can increase the light behind the set.

The alternative set you mention has a percentage with issues more severe than SDE. Some displays are having "Mother Glass" fractures that look like an etch a sketch maze or a road map effect. It occurs sometime after the first year. (just out of factory warranty) Only those with extended warranties are getting the displays replaced at no cost. Others are having to pay labor and/or part costs. Another alternative might be the 50XBR1 LCOS technology.

mucker

01-17-06, 10:29 AM

BUCK SHOT- I've installed a few of these TVs (with my previous employer) in a niche before and in a custom cabinet WITHOUT ventilation and have not had any overheating issues. I suppose it would also depend on how long the TV is on and the ambient room temp.

So far I love the TV but my two main issues are the black level being not so black and the tiny smudge that appears to be on the inside of the screen. I have thought about purchasing AVIA or something similar but do I really need to? I guess I am used to my Sony Trinitron CRT. It seems no matter what adjustments are made on the Samsung that the very nature of rear projection causes the blacks to appear "brighter" and no amount of adjustments can change that. I suppose I can live with it since the screen really is "film-like"

MANNAXMAN

01-17-06, 10:39 AM

I’m glad you enjoy your TV. I can’t say the same with mine. The more I play with it, the more disappointment I get. In my opinion, black is NOT black. I watch DVD a lot, the DVD PQ doesn’t satisfy me, dark scenes look horrible. I remember feeling so disappointed when watching “The Skeleton Key”, but when I watched “The Wedding Crashers” (with only bright scenes), the TV really looked awesome.

DVE does not help me much, it just makes the picture darker – away from my taste. It only helps me to set the colors right

midnightman,

Prior to making adjustments on my 5067 in the SM to the Index setting, I also watched Skeleton Key on DVD and was very disappointed with the picture quality of the dark scenes. I haven't watched Skeleton Key again since then, but I've watched other DVDs with plenty of dark scenes and definitely don't have the same poor PQ I once had. Have you tried adjusting your Index setting? If not, you might want to try lowering it. My Index setting is currently at 42 (lowered from 50).

Hi-Rez!

01-17-06, 10:40 AM

I’m glad you enjoy your TV. I can’t say the same with mine. The more I play with it, the more disappointment I get. In my opinion, black is NOT black. I watch DVD a lot, the DVD PQ doesn’t satisfy me, dark scenes look horrible. I remember feeling so disappointed when watching “The Skeleton Key”, but when I watched “The Wedding Crashers” (with only bright scenes), the TV really looked awesome.

DVE does not help me much, it just makes the picture darker – away from my taste. It only helps me to set the colors right

Your brightness must be cranked up. My blacks are inky black. What you are describing sounds more like an LCD. Perhaps your contrast setting is too low as well. My contrast is on 90 and my brightness is on 45. My color tone is normal, but I here "warm 1" has a better grey scale. I don't like it because it makes my whites not as white.

Another possibility is that your gamma setting in the SD is too high for your particular light engine. Some folks on this forum have seen improvement by adjusting the gamma from 2 to either 1 or 0. There are posts back on page 52 to 54 about how to do this.

midnightman

01-17-06, 12:03 PM

Your brightness must be cranked up. My blacks are inky black. What you are describing sounds more like an LCD. Perhaps your contrast setting is too low as well. My contrast is on 90 and my brightness is on 45. My color tone is normal, but I here "warm 1" has a better grey scale. I don't like it because it makes my whites not as white.

Another possibility is that your gamma setting in the SD is too high for your particular light engine. Some folks on this forum have seen improvement by adjusting the gamma from 2 to either 1 or 0. There are posts back on page 52 to 54 about how to do this.
My brightness is on 54 (calibrated with DVE).

Yes, I read about setting gamma to 0, but since I use Movie mode, the gamma is 0 by default

I guess I expected too much from this TV. By buying a much more expensive TV than the one I used to have (Toshiba CRT 32”), I kind of expected the new TV would be better in every way. But it certainly does not have a relatively good black level, and dark scenes usually look greenish.

stumacdo

01-17-06, 01:09 PM

midnightman,

Prior to making adjustments on my 5067 in the SM to the Index setting, I also watched Skeleton Key on DVD and was very disappointed with the picture quality of the dark scenes. I haven't watched Skeleton Key again since then, but I've watched other DVDs with plenty of dark scenes and definitely don't have the same poor PQ I once had. Have you tried adjusting your Index setting? If not, you might want to try lowering it. My Index setting is currently at 42 (lowered from 50).

Is the Index value in the SM on the Main Menu, or does it exist within one of the various sub-menu's. Also, although I've only tweaked the Gamma value in the SM, how do I return to the main SM screen ? Seems like no matter which key I press on the remote, I can only get back to the 2nd sub-menu on the SM where the Gamma value is indicated ? Also, without getting too techie, by decreasing the Index from 50 to 42, what are you really diminishing - i.e., what does the "Index" value stand for ?

stumacdo

01-17-06, 01:11 PM

When I went into the SM this weekend to tweak the Gamma control for my Component1 setting (used for DTV HR10-250 HD DVR), I noticed that on the first page of the SM, it showed that I was at 480P. Does anyone know if that's just a limitation of the display via component, or if this value can be tweaked. I can select on the HR10-250 to 480I/P, 720P and 1080I. I've always set it at 720P as that's the native resolution of the display, but now I'm a little puzzled. Any ideas ?

ak3883

01-17-06, 01:21 PM

You may or may not stop seeing rainbows. Once I started to see them on my Samsung DLP I always saw them, though they could be reduced as previously mentioned. You should not be able to SDE on the 50" A10 at normal viewing distances of more than a few feet back. However, you may find that SSE on the Sony 50" A10 is a little more noticeable than on the HL-R5067W. So be sure to spend plaenty of time viewing and comparing before deciding.

I can't stop seeing them, if i consciously think about it, I can definetly see them. But I just don't think about it, and just watch tv, and they don't bother me. Never had any headaches or anything from watching.

They are worse in a dark scene, of course. The absolute WORST time they come up is during LOST when the word LOST comes across a pure black screen, for like 10 seconds(about 3 minutes after the show starts). That drives my eyes crazy, and I have to turn away cause I see them really really bad. But if that's the worst of it, big deal.

Benihana2

01-17-06, 01:55 PM

Hi all,

I'm having my HLR5067w delivered on Saturday, and can't wait! I'll definitely be sure to post my impressions once I've put it through its paces.

One question (so far!) - I've read from a few on this forum that premature bulb breakage can be attributed to not having the television plugged into the proper power supply. Can anyone either suggest some (economical) choices, or point me in the right direction of a link on this forum that already addresses my issue? (my searches so far have been unsuccessful on suggesting specific models...)

What is the minimum "specs" that I should be looking for when making my choice?

Thanks!!

thetroll76

01-17-06, 03:07 PM

First off, I know that SSE is "silk screen effect" but I'm not too sure what that means exactly, if it means that the picture looks washed out or not very crisp then that is definitely not what I want. Like I said, I love the 5067W, I think it has the most beautifully crisp picture I've ever seen. I think I'll just deal with the occasional "rainbows". Although, I do have the same problem as many people in here and that is that the PQ during dark scenes is horribly pixelated. I would like to access the SM so I can adjust the gamma and index to the levels referenced throughout this thread. The only problem is I have no idea how to access it. If someone could PLEASE let me know how I would be extremely grateful.
I searched this thread for an answer but so far I have found none and other posts asking for the same thing have gone unanswered, although I have noticed many posts aking for a private message concerning service menu codes, if this is the proper protocol for obtaining these codes then again can someone PLEASE help me! Thank You in advance to any and all responses.

midnightman

01-17-06, 03:24 PM

thetroll76

01-17-06, 04:25 PM

MANNAXMAN

01-17-06, 04:26 PM

Is the Index value in the SM on the Main Menu, or does it exist within one of the various sub-menu's. Also, although I've only tweaked the Gamma value in the SM, how do I return to the main SM screen ? Seems like no matter which key I press on the remote, I can only get back to the 2nd sub-menu on the SM where the Gamma value is indicated ? Also, without getting too techie, by decreasing the Index from 50 to 42, what are you really diminishing - i.e., what does the "Index" value stand for ?

stumacdo,

The Index is in a sub-menu of the SM. I believe it is in the same sub-menu as the Gamma setting.

Here is a quote from a previous post as posted by Hi-Rez! on 12/14/05 regarding what Index is:
"The "Index" will affect the picture and color in the same way a pc video graphics driver does when you switch from some low bit color rate to a higher setting like 32 bit or true color. If you drop the index value too far or raise it up too high you can cause macro-blocking of any input signal. There is a sweet spot. The factory either nailed it or missed it."

HD Hockey Guy

01-17-06, 05:13 PM

I can't stop seeing them, if i consciously think about it, I can definetly see them. But I just don't think about it, and just watch tv, and they don't bother me. Never had any headaches or anything from watching.

They are worse in a dark scene, of course. The absolute WORST time they come up is during LOST when the word LOST comes across a pure black screen, for like 10 seconds(about 3 minutes after the show starts). That drives my eyes crazy, and I have to turn away cause I see them really really bad. But if that's the worst of it, big deal.

I saw them at first, and they bothered the heck out of me to the point where I was thinking "oh no, I'm ALWAYS going to see these" but after about 2 months of viewing, you stop 'testing' yourself to see them and actually only rarely see them in the dark scenes.

I have noticed they seem to be more noticeable on SD programming, and especially on TIVO'd content - not live so much. Not sure if that's coincidence or if there's a real reason... but I know I watched alot of HBO's ROME and those dark scenes would bring the rainbow gremlins out like nothing else, but when I watched the HD feed live, it wasn't as bad.... imagination? probably.... but I like to think there's a solution there somewhere.

Now I almost never see them - I think you train your eyes not to bounce all over after a while.

Stoney Jackson

01-17-06, 06:09 PM

Hi-Rez!

01-17-06, 06:24 PM

You're scaring me now about this whole service menu thing. I'm pretty familiar with HT eqquipment so I was confident that I could change the gamma and index without screwing anything up but now I'm not sure. All I want to do is fix my PQ on dark scenes (regular video menu doesn't seem to help no matter how much I tweak) and fix the redness of faces and especially lips ( all people on screen look like they're wearing lipstick). Please advise me on this.

Go to page 37 and read post # 1082 for a step by step (how to) on changing the gamma setting.

Just remember that up and down arrows navigate the various items. Enter selects an item for alteration. Left and right arrows change the value of a selection. The menu button on the remote will exit back to a previous menu screen. Good luck!

Hi-Rez!

01-17-06, 06:35 PM

Hi guys, I just got an HLR4266W last week. I used my old Video Essentials dvd (the first one, which was actually made for laserdisc I believe) to set it up, but was curious to other peoples settings. Can any of you who have this set share your custom settings? I know there are factors involved like how much outside light comes in through windows etc. Just curious.

Also, my HD cable box (Scientific Atlanta) has a setting for resolution. Originally I was setting it at 1080i and comparing it with 720p and the 1080i setting looked better to me. Then I saw another setting for "Pass through" and used that. Now the box I guess senses what signal is being sent (720p for ABC, FOX and ESPN) and the picture looks better to me now then manually switching it. DOes that make sense?

At the top right of this page is a "Search this Thread" pull down. Just put "settings" in the box and you will see a list of posts about settings. Many of them will contain settings that may or may not work for you.

Having your cable box on "pass through" is the best setting. That way your tv will do all the scaling of any input signal to the set's native display resolution, which is 720P. Any other setting would cause more than one scaling process.

Stoney Jackson

01-17-06, 06:46 PM

Thanks Hi-Rez!

MANNAXMAN

01-17-06, 07:27 PM

You're scaring me now about this whole service menu thing. I'm pretty familiar with HT eqquipment so I was confident that I could change the gamma and index without screwing anything up but now I'm not sure. All I want to do is fix my PQ on dark scenes (regular video menu doesn't seem to help no matter how much I tweak) and fix the redness of faces and especially lips ( all people on screen look like they're wearing lipstick). Please advise me on this.

I'm pretty new to DLP's and HDTV's in general. I ventured into the SM timidly, tried making different adjustments to both the Gamma and the Index, and managed to get out of there without screwing anything up. As long as you don't mess with anything you're not sure about, I'm sure you'll be OK. BTW, changes to the Gamma didn't help with PQ of dark scenes in my case. A change to the Index did WONDERS!

mucker

01-17-06, 07:38 PM

Played around in the SM today. I set the gamma from the default of "2" to "0" and the index delay to "45" from a default of "48". My DVD player has more tweaks for sharpness, fineness, chroma delay, contrast etc. Tweaking the chroma delay setting seemed to help the most. I also tried turning progressive on but I got some blockiness... so I set it back to off. So far I am seeing a decent improvement in picture quality as I am watching Star Wars Ep. III. - this is pretty much my reference disc for now.

thetroll76

01-17-06, 07:49 PM

Thank You to everyone who helped me with the SM questions. Now for another issue I need advice on, I purchased the matching stand with my TV and I recently noticed that it's bowed in the middle of the stand. After reading throught this thread I found that I'm not the only one who has experienced this problem. I contacted the manufacturer and am awaiting their response. My question is this; will the bowing effect harm my TV in any way? Because I looked at it and the feet of the TV are not resting on anything, only the outside edges of the TV are being supported. Thank You in advance for any and all responses.

ringo64

01-18-06, 02:19 AM

I saw rainbows too in the beginning and also got headaches. I went out and bought a Panasonic 44" LCD for comparison purposes. FIrst of all, the 2" of screen (I have the 46" Samsung) was very noticeable. But mainly, the Screen door effect was awful and I found it much worse than the rainbows. The picture didn't seem as nice either. So I boxed up the Panny, put the Samsung back to work, and prayed that the rainbows would go away. Almost like magic, they did. Right before the 30 day return period too so I was confident I made the right decision.

Give it some time. I don't think I just got used to them, they really did seem to go away. I see them on occasion but its rare and not a bother. Good luck!

r0dr0ddy

01-18-06, 12:45 PM

Hi, newbie here. I got my 5067w last week from the "beast" (can't beat 24 months no interest financing!) and have a few opening comments/questions...

I know there's no way to turn the DNIe off (it's presumed to be in the always on state), but when I put it into the worthless DNIe demo mode, there is a marked difference in the "DNIe ON" half of the screen. If DNIe is always on, why is there a difference in the demo screen quality?

I tried my PS2 via S-Video, and I have to say on the one game I tested (Gran Turismo 3) in 16:9 mode looks amazing. Not bad for a 480i game and connection! And there was no lag between the audio (I had hooked directly into my receiver via optical) and the picture.

For kicks, I hooked in my trusty old N64 and played some James Bond: Goldeneye. Obviously the graphics didn't look that great, but I can't wait to test out the 50" screen in 4-player mode.

I picked up the Oppo DVD player and am quite pleased with the picture. Again, no audio delay problems.

The cable guy is coming out to install the HD cable box on Friday. I intend on running the DVD via HDMI and the cable box via component. I'm no audio/videophile but I do appreciate quality.

A final note... I did spring for the 4 year service plan. I figure if I'm gonna be needing a new lamp in a couple of years it would probably be close to paying for itself, and who knows what else might break in that time.

All in all, for my first HD experience (holy cow do David Letterman's hands look awful in high def), I am very happy! I can't wait for the Superbowl- too bad my local ABC affiliate doesn't broadcast in DD5.1. And I can't wait to see the Daytona 500 in 720P.

JohnnytheSkin

01-18-06, 02:15 PM

stumacdo,

The Index is in a sub-menu of the SM. I believe it is in the same sub-menu as the Gamma setting.

Here is a quote from a previous post as posted by Hi-Rez! on 12/14/05 regarding what Index is:
"The "Index" will affect the picture and color in the same way a pc video graphics driver does when you switch from some low bit color rate to a higher setting like 32 bit or true color. If you drop the index value too far or raise it up too high you can cause macro-blocking of any input signal. There is a sweet spot. The factory either nailed it or missed it."

I'm still not understanding the "Index" value. I am thinking of changing it, if it will help the color (my green is way off), but I just don't understand what is being said here. What improvements will I see, in layman terms. Thanks!

johngraz

01-18-06, 02:48 PM

Well I ventured in to the SM taking digital pics of the settings. Not too bad, just pay attention and you should be ok. I tweaked the gamma to 1 from 2 and the Index to 44 from 48. Not a huge difference, but I will test drive it this weekend and see. I hope to have my DVE DVD in time to calibrate it and see how it shakes out. I have had too much green and problems with dark scenes and details up to now.

I do get some crackling on the audio intermittently and only on some channels. Is that a cable issue or a TV/cable issue? Anyone else get it??

Thanks to everyone for all the great info on this site.

MANNAXMAN

01-18-06, 03:23 PM

I'm still not understanding the "Index" value. I am thinking of changing it, if it will help the color (my green is way off), but I just don't understand what is being said here. What improvements will I see, in layman terms. Thanks!

I honestly don't understand the Index value either. I don't know if it will help fix your Green (I really doubt it). I calibrated my 5067W with DVE, and Red and Blue are close to dead on (to my uncalibrated eye). But my Green is nowhere close to being calibrated. I don't think there's anything that can be done about the Green without calling in a professional to calibrate the TV.

The easiest way to see what kind of improvements you will achieve by making an adjustment to the Index value is to enter the SM with your Cable STB or Satellite Box turned on so that you have a picture to view while making adjustments. I initially made adjustments with my STB off and didn't know how far I should adjust it or which way to adjust it (up or down). In addition, I didn't know what I was looking for, so I couldn't really tell if the adjustments made any difference. But, with the STB, I was able to see the changes right before my eyes, rather than having to remember what the picture looked like before the change and comparing it to after the change.

Hope this helps.

HD Hockey Guy

01-18-06, 06:32 PM

The cable guy is coming out to install the HD cable box on Friday. I intend on running the DVD via HDMI and the cable box via component. I'm no audio/videophile but I do appreciate quality.

Consider the opposite - cable box HDMI, DVD component. You're giving a 480p signal the best connection and sacrificing your 720p and 1080i HD cablebox with component. Try it and you might discover what I did - the HDMI cable looks better than component - especially those non-digital, non-HD channels.

Congrats on your purchase - and go buy an xbox 360! You'll be amazed....

baron293

01-18-06, 07:55 PM

Hello, lurker here. Considering getting the 5067w. I have xbox 360, and from what ive read here there are some issues with lag on this tv, but its not clear if thats for the old xbox, the 360, or both. Can anyone tell me if that is a real problem, a wiring issue, or not a problem? Anyone have a 360 with this set and experience zero lag all the time, or all the time? Thanks. Im still trying to decide between this tv and the sony a10.

johngraz

01-19-06, 08:09 AM

Consider the opposite - cable box HDMI, DVD component. You're giving a 480p signal the best connection and sacrificing your 720p and 1080i HD cablebox with component. Try it and you might discover what I did - the HDMI cable looks better than component - especially those non-digital, non-HD channels.

Congrats on your purchase - and go buy an xbox 360! You'll be amazed....

I'm with HG, use the HDMI from the cable box and component for DVD. I tried both ways and this was better for me and my Sammy and my terrible Adelphia STB.

As for audio I am assuming that if a use the audio out optical from the Sammy into my receiver (after running the regular audio in to the Sammy from the STB), that what I would get out from it is WORSE then running the digitial coax right from the STB into my receiver as I have it set up now? Is this correct?

r0dr0ddy

01-19-06, 09:02 AM

Thanks for the tip, guys. I'll try switching around the HDMI with component and determine which one looks best. I am bummed that the 5067w only has one HDMI input. An HDMI switchbox at Best Buy cost a ridiculous $130, but it might be a necessary purchase.

Flyer_70

01-19-06, 10:30 AM

First time poster and I'd like to thank all that have posted in the thread as it helped immensely in my purchase decision.

I got the TV (50" 5067) on Monday and it's a fantastic tv but there's one problem that I was hoping that someone may have encountered and figured out. I have SD directv hooked up as video 1 and last night I purchased an amplified OTA to get local high def channels (works amazingly well - picture is incredible) which is hooked up as video 3 and I get probably 20 channels most of them perfectly. My problem is when I hit PIP while on video 1 (directv) and video 3 is in the PIP box (OTA reception) there is an option to change to channel of the PIP window (OTA reception) but only 3 channels show up as available. If I swap the tuners and make the OTA the "primary" on the left side of the screen and flip through the channels I can get all 20 channels.

Has anyone else encountered anything like this or know how I can get the PIP OTA tuner to recognize more than the 3 channels it currently has available?

Thanks a lot.

kingd

01-19-06, 01:20 PM

I'm with HG, use the HDMI from the cable box and component for DVD. I tried both ways and this was better for me and my Sammy and my terrible Adelphia STB.

As for audio I am assuming that if a use the audio out optical from the Sammy into my receiver (after running the regular audio in to the Sammy from the STB), that what I would get out from it is WORSE then running the digitial coax right from the STB into my receiver as I have it set up now? Is this correct?

I think I read that dvd audio (5.1) to the TV and then out to the receiver will only output in 2.0 stereo and not 5.1 digital. If that's the case, then i assume set top box audio would do that same.

hoots711

01-19-06, 01:26 PM

baron293

01-19-06, 02:40 PM

dadude1

01-19-06, 03:07 PM

thinking about returning my sony lcd 60a20 i just got yesterday to try out the samsung hlr 61inch it also states it couples as the ultimate wxga pc monitor has anyone pc gamed on this yet? I couldn't get a 1:1pixel mapped on my sony lcd.. plus im still not quite sure i like the lcd rpt technology coming from an old sony kp61hs30 rpt crt.

what do you guys think? plus it's an inch bigger.. i know about lcds and there native reso so my divxs in low quality im constantly stetching to watch my fav episodes.. would the dlp cut out the lcds native reso problem? i still see some jaggies and tearing on my set.. is it due to the lcd technology?

input please i gotta call CC soon. Also has anyone fooled with the a20 series versus the new samsung dlps? I also need something that will nicely replace my 19inch benq monitors.. 1280x1024 native reso... I DO like the colors and the image pops out on the grand wega 60a20 but has anyone got to side compare them.. ?? would there be less jaggies with the DLP technology or does it still fall under that native reso like lcd technology?

someone, anyone, please! :confused:

rhw199

01-19-06, 03:49 PM

Well, I jumped in and ordered my Samsung HLR5067W, the Samsung HD950 DVD player, and a Tech Craft Bernini Series 52" TV Stand HK52B. All are on the way!
I have the Avia DVD so will use that to do my initial calibrations. My digital cable gets installed in about 10 days and then I'll begin playing with the entire system and will report back.

After doing extensive online reading here and elsewhere, and viewing too many sets in the stores, I'm sure this'll be good set for the next few years. But my major concern is the audio/video sync issue several of you have reported. I don't do gaming so that's not an problem, but since I have an older Sony HT Receiver I am concerned that it may not allow me to compensate for the video delay.

For those of you who deal with the sync issue: does it only occur when running into an external audio amp and bypassing the 5067's audio system?
And if it occurs with DVD, do you get the same results with your cable and OTA signals?

Roger

johngraz

01-19-06, 04:01 PM

I think I read that dvd audio (5.1) to the TV and then out to the receiver will only output in 2.0 stereo and not 5.1 digital. If that's the case, then i assume set top box audio would do that same.

The STB has a digital coax that I have feeding into my receiver. I was thinking that if I ran the TV optical out to the receiver that I would only get stereo out of the TV in the receiver as you explain, but if I went right from the STB into the receiver via the optical coax that would be better?? Thanks.

Flyer_70

01-19-06, 04:09 PM

I have a question about antenna's...How do I find out how far away a tower is? How close do I need to be for a hdtv antenna to work, or be worth while?

The website antennaweb is great and will tell you based on your address the distance from the various channels as well as the type of dish. I am between 18-25 miles from most broadcast stations and a $30 Radio shack amplified antenna picked up about 90% of the stations (about 1/2 flawlessly). I am going to get a little better OTA and hopefully it will get the stations the cheaper one didn't. Either way though it was definitely worth the $30, the picture is amazing.

dadude1

01-19-06, 04:27 PM

geeez no one had hooked this up to there pc yet and it says its a wxga... someone? no one has got to demo both the a20's and the DLP texas instruments technology... you can't get a feel for them at the store.. if you get my drift...

hopefully the DLP looks smoother to me... too bad i can't afford an SXRD lol..

anyone, anyone?

MANNAXMAN

01-19-06, 07:18 PM

But my major concern is the audio/video sync issue several of you have reported. I don't do gaming so that's not an problem, but since I have an older Sony HT Receiver I am concerned that it may not allow me to compensate for the video delay.

For those of you who deal with the sync issue: does it only occur when running into an external audio amp and bypassing the 5067's audio system?
And if it occurs with DVD, do you get the same results with your cable and OTA signals?

Roger

Roger,
I'm using an older Sony HT receiver as well, along with an older Panny DVD player. Neither allows for any audio delay. So, if I'm watching a DVD and have both the TV speaker and the surround sound system running, I get an echo effect because of the sync issue. However, the delay is so slight that if I turn the TV volume to zero I don't notice any lip sync issues. When watching TV and running audio through the amp, I don't have the echo problem. My 5067 is connected via the optical output to the receiver.

MrDeville

01-19-06, 07:35 PM

I have been looking at 50" tvs for a while

best buy's 36 month no apr may be the best deal I have seen for a while.

Any reason I should not go with the samsung 50 dlp (5067).

I will use 30% video games (ps2, xbox NOT 360) 20% dvd, 40% reg tv, 10%hd

My biggest concerns are video gaming having a delay and non hd chanels looking good (since I have only about 15 hd's)

Can I get some advice?

Is this the set for me?

Thanks all!

Hoots:

I have had my 5067 since just after Christmas and I love it. :p I have Comcast Cable running through a Moto DVR HD STB via component. I also have my Denon S-101 DVD player running through component. I am very satisfied with SD reception and absolutly blowen away with the HD programming! I haven't tried gaming yet as I am waiting for X-Box 360 to come down in price. But others on this thread have had good experiences. Good Luck!

rhw199

01-19-06, 08:11 PM

Roger,
I'm using an older Sony HT receiver as well, along with an older Panny DVD player. Neither allows for any audio delay. So, if I'm watching a DVD and have both the TV speaker and the surround sound system running, I get an echo effect because of the sync issue. However, the delay is so slight that if I turn the TV volume to zero I don't notice any lip sync issues. When watching TV and running audio through the amp, I don't have the echo problem. My 5067 is connected via the optical output to the receiver.

I won't be using the TV speakers at all, just the 5.1 system via my Sony receiver. I'll keep my fingers crossed...

Roger

rhw199

01-19-06, 09:04 PM

LtCarter47

01-19-06, 10:28 PM

I am in the process of hooking up a new DVR from comcast, and it has HDMI output. My plan was to run that to the TV for video and run an optical out to my receiver. Unfortunately, it seems as though the optical out on my DVR is disabled when HDMI is connected. OK, well, I am getting audio through the TVs speakers from the HDMI cable.

I'm wondering if the optical out on the back of the TV will passthrough the dolby digital signal so I can send it to the receiver to be decoded into 5.1. I would test it out but at the moment nothing on the channels I'm getting is more than 2 channels (I have another DVR of the same model in another room which I have verified this on).

I had to disconnect the new DVR because I'm going to exchange it tomorrow because of an audio dropout problem I'm getting via the HDMI, both at the TV and from the TVs optical to the receiver. I think it's an HDMI issue.

Assuming the optical out on the box I get tomorrow is also disabled when HDMI is connected, can I expect to be able to use the TV to pass that signal along to the receiver keeping the multichannel intact?

Thanks,
Sean

PS - the TV is a HLR5067W

CounterMeasure

01-19-06, 11:00 PM

I have lurked in the forums for awhile, but now finally have something credible to post. :)

I recently purchased a HL-R6167W. I am happy with it except for the video lag with playing non-progressive scan games. Guitar Hero is a PS2 great game, but sadly not playable on this Samsung.

After trying component cables, setting GAME mode, and having a tech out to look a the TV, nothing helped. But after some reading and experimentation, I noticed the 15pin VGA has zero lag via my laptop connected to it.

With that in mind, I picked up a Viewsonic N5 video to VGA converter as a test at my local Fry's store. The box supports multiple inputs (composite, component, VGA and S-Video), and comes with a little remote. Plugged the PS2 into it via component cables, and it into the VGA port. Wallah! The lag was gone! I also tried the PS2 using composite cables into the box, and there was still no lag, though the picture wasn't as good. Songs that I couldn't get 10% complete before due to the lag I was now fully finishing with high scores. And using the component cables, it looks beautiful!

The box runs about $130, and Fry's had a $35 rebate on it, so for abut $100, there is a fix for those that want to go that route. It's too bad Samsung can't make a $3K TV do what a $100 box can.

dadude1

01-19-06, 11:11 PM

cc rules my hlr6167w is coming tomorrow and they coming to pick up the wega when they do since it had a defect and i wanted to take the plunge since i can test it out for 30 days i opted to check out the dlp it was more too.. i'm hoping it has a superior PQ to my eye...

with that said it also said it coupled as pc compatible ultimate pc monitor wxga so hopefully it rules..

and i can pass on my old sony kp61hs30.. still kinda sad no one here has reported back about hooking there pc upto it and how it looks.. so i'm not to worried about taking pictures to contribute.. but maybe i shall for the ones in this thread to help out..

and the darn dlp 61" better look better it costed a few hundred more than the grand wega! :eek:

HD Hockey Guy

01-19-06, 11:46 PM

Pye in LA

01-20-06, 12:56 AM

I lost my TV Guide!

I rarely refer to the onscreen TV Guide as I view mostly through my Adelphia STB w/ Moxi but I have a cable feed going straight to the tv as an alternate input source. The TV Guide WAS populated and I'd even customized it a bit.

Tonight when I went to the MENU and selected TV GUIDE ONSCREEN DISPLAY, the menu cleared from the tv screen but no TV GUIDE appeared; no "unavailable" message, no blank grid...just a return to the video image. Anyone else experienced this?

hoots711

01-20-06, 08:16 AM

You can also google the Felston Digital Delay box... I bought it for it's adjustability as my DVD's have a different leading audio length than my cable box... and it's got a remote with full 5.1 DD/DTS pass through and no degredation.

I had severe leading audio issues with my original cable box and dvd player, but have no lag using the xbox 360 through my vga input- and the new HD cable box I have has far less lag than previous - -- went from about 130 milliseconds down to 60-70.

Highly suggest it to anyone facing this annoying issue.

HD Hockey Guy, and Counter Measure.

I have been holding off buying the 5067 dlp for the single reason that I play alot of online sports and shooting games (any lag makes these games near unplayable)

Do either of you feel that if I buy the 50" dlp and do have ps2/xbox lag (from what I read its hit or miss, some have zero problems, some same games are unplayable) that this 100$ plug in will make online games playable?

Thanks

CounterMeasure

01-20-06, 08:55 AM

You can also google the Felston Digital Delay box... I bought it for it's adjustability as my DVD's have a different leading audio length than my cable box... and it's got a remote with full 5.1 DD/DTS pass through and no degredation.

I had severe leading audio issues with my original cable box and dvd player, but have no lag using the xbox 360 through my vga input- and the new HD cable box I have has far less lag than previous - -- went from about 130 milliseconds down to 60-70.

Highly suggest it to anyone facing this annoying issue.

No, that's not the problem. The audio and video are in sync. The problem is the delay of the TV of outputting the signals is about 500ms behind what the PS2 thinks should be on the screen. Basically, the TV is lagging behind the code, and in tight timing games like Guitar Hero, it's a killer. What I am saying is this solves the game console lag problem, not the video-audio sync problem.

CounterMeasure

01-20-06, 09:00 AM

HD Hockey Guy, and Counter Measure.

I have been holding off buying the 5067 dlp for the single reason that I play alot of online sports and shooting games (any lag makes these games near unplayable)

Do either of you feel that if I buy the 50" dlp and do have ps2/xbox lag (from what I read its hit or miss, some have zero problems, some same games are unplayable) that this 100$ plug in will make online games playable?

Thanks

That's exactly what the box solved for me. Any of my non-progressive games were lagged by about 500ms from what was displayed to what the console that was being displayed. It was very noticeable on Guitar Hero because it's a timing game, to the point where it was unplayable. Using the box, the lag is now minimal to none. After talking to Samsung about it last night, what we concluded is the box can convert an interlaced signal to progessive faster than the TV can, which reduces most of the lag. On top of that, the VGA input doesn't have any of the picture enhancement circuity besides the conversion to 720p, so there is no lag associated to "picture prettiness".

midnightman

01-20-06, 10:40 AM

kingd

01-20-06, 10:51 AM