I think i've read that the the Samsungs will not pass 5.1 audio from the HDMI to the optical output but i'm not sure. Can anyone confirm this?

Correct. The Samsungs sets only pass stereo through the optical out, when the source is anything other than the built-in tuner (which, oddly, does pass 5.1 surround through the optical out).

ewww my vga or hdmi will be used up by my pc and i run my xbox360 and regular xbox through component and my cable box through s-video..

i hope there is no lag on the xbox 360 via component or i shall be pizzed i play doa4 online so any delay could cause you a fight.. guess i'll find out today.. :eek:

I am in the process of hooking up a new DVR from comcast, and it has HDMI output. My plan was to run that to the TV for video and run an optical out to my receiver. Unfortunately, it seems as though the optical out on my DVR is disabled when HDMI is connected. OK, well, I am getting audio through the TVs speakers from the HDMI cable.

I'm wondering if the optical out on the back of the TV will passthrough the dolby digital signal so I can send it to the receiver to be decoded into 5.1. I would test it out but at the moment nothing on the channels I'm getting is more than 2 channels (I have another DVR of the same model in another room which I have verified this on).

I had to disconnect the new DVR because I'm going to exchange it tomorrow because of an audio dropout problem I'm getting via the HDMI, both at the TV and from the TVs optical to the receiver. I think it's an HDMI issue.

Assuming the optical out on the box I get tomorrow is also disabled when HDMI is connected, can I expect to be able to use the TV to pass that signal along to the receiver keeping the multichannel intact?

Thanks,
Sean

PS - the TV is a HLR5067W

I think the best you will get out from the TV is Stereo. My STB is DVI so my optical coax out of the STB works and I have that right into my receiver. It sounds pretty good and appears to be 5.1 or at least better than stereo. Can you work around the box or get a different STB?? Maybe the new box will not cut off the optical out of the box?? I guess I got a break in Adelphia using less then up to date outputs (HDMI v DVI)?? Good luck!

dadude1, please let me know your findings as I am looking at purchasing one of these sets next week. Hopefully either through component or the vga there is no lag on one of those imputs

Midnightman --

Thank you, that did the trick...didn't even have to reset the clock.

Does anyone know how to solve the issue with "red push" with the 5067W? My picture is definitely experiencing this problem as I'm getting a rosy look to peoples faces on screen, everyone looks as though they have a sunburn. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

dadude1, please let me know your findings as I am looking at purchasing one of these sets next week. Hopefully either through component or the vga there is no lag on one of those imputs


right now i can't test the vga port. because my evga 6800 ultra only has dual dvi so i need an adapter. i only have dvi->hdmi adapter.

i played doa4 against the computer and it looked to have no lag to me. so then i fired up the xbox with ninja gaiden black and still saw no delay and i was playing with a wireless controller on the xbox1/ng:black. (both hooked up via component)

so far for some reason no matter what setting i try the colors on certain stuff doesn't seem to pop out at me like it did on the sony grand wga but.. so far i feel that my low reso stuff comes out more looking like it did on my 4:3 kp61hs30 sony model. doa4 still pops out though and other high things depending on the setting i have i guess it has to do with the lcd technology. I also haven't had as much time to tweak this one and fool with it. i miss the "wide" button on the grand wega to stretch stuff but it was pretty much useless.

with all that said 720p or higher stuff looks good to me but i feel this samsung to my eye to emulate more of the crt/my sony than the lcd. this is just my first impressions and are personal. so far im indifferent to which one i like better.

As i type this i'm installin jedi knight jedi academy which is a semi-old FPS i shall see how it runs via the hdmi.

the matrix reloaded letterbox dvd i have so far looks pretty much the same as the wega to me. So like i said i'm still indifferent.. i just keep feeling like those colors aren't popping out at me hopefully i can tweak this.


i will post some pics of both and decent reso videos 640x soon. I don't know since my grandwega had a defective splotch hardly noticable but still i sent it back. the text had a rainbow effect going off on them but there is a downside so far i hope has to do with the advanced timing on the samsung because the text is not rainbowing but the screen keeps popping when it refreshes or whatever but it looks like an erratic heartbeat lines and text jump badly other than that it looks great and i can't wait to try out the vga port.. anyways enough babbling and back to jedi academy install.

I think overall it's gonna come down to personal preference and you eye perception. because the wega was growing on me... only time will tell which one i get.. also the wega doesn't have the vga-port/wxga =(

I have a question about the color temperature and grayscale on a calibrated set. Here is my dilemma:

Two weeks ago had my set calibrated. One thing I forgot to ask though, was what color temperature to set the picture mode to in the user menu.

After exiting the service menu, the set defaults to the "Standard" picture mode with a color temperature of "Warm 1". I don't know if this is the color temperature in effect though, while IN the service menu (I would assume that there would be no color temperature and that when adjusting gray scale in the SM, that no enhancements are turned on).

My question is does a color temperature exist while doing work in the SM? I have a 6500k backlight, and when comparing the gray scale ramp pattern on DVE with my backlight, it looks like I should leave the color temperature on "Normal", since it provides the closest color. Any help?

dadude1, the Viewsonic box I listed above does have VGA passthrough. So you can still hook up a computer to it. It's what I did with this spare laptop I have laying around here.

Hi thetrool76,

I purchased the matching stand for the HLR 5067. I read a thread on the forum somewhere on the bowing issue. After looking at the assembly book to find the manufacture (Ameriwood ), I went to website and e-mailed a customer service rep. She was great, she had three new top pieces sent. Upon receipt, one was damaged. She immediately sent a replacement. The new top extends further to the front, providing better support for the set. I wish all customer service reps I have dealt with were this responsive.

Regards,

Marktonk



Thank You to everyone who helped me with the SM questions. Now for another issue I need advice on, I purchased the matching stand with my TV and I recently noticed that it's bowed in the middle of the stand. After reading throught this thread I found that I'm not the only one who has experienced this problem. I contacted the manufacturer and am awaiting their response. My question is this; will the bowing effect harm my TV in any way? Because I looked at it and the feet of the TV are not resting on anything, only the outside edges of the TV are being supported. Thank You in advance for any and all responses.

I just got my HLR 5067 today and I hooked up the optical out to my audio receiver, tuned in a local HD channel and but there's no sound from the reciever. The TV speakers work great, but the sound is not transferring to my home theater setup.

Looking at the fiber link I do see a red light coming out of the cable. I tested the receiver with an xbox optical link and it works fine. Is there something I'm missing? I tried the internal speaker mute and both the Dolby and the PCM settings, no luck. I'd sure hate to have to haul the darn back the Best Buy.

With that in mind, I picked up a Viewsonic N5 video to VGA converter as a test at my local Fry's store. The box supports multiple inputs (composite, component, VGA and S-Video), and comes with a little remote. Plugged the PS2 into it via component cables, and it into the VGA port. Wallah! The lag was gone! I also tried the PS2 using composite cables into the box, and there was still no lag, though the picture wasn't as good. Songs that I couldn't get 10% complete before due to the lag I was now fully finishing with high scores. And using the component cables, it looks beautiful!


Great! I've been frustrated that my DDR on PS2 has been ever so slightly lagging me enough to ruin my playing. I'm definately going to check out that box.

But I currently have a computer connected to the VGA port, the computer has DVI out but I've been wary of trying a DVI to HDMI converter. Anyone have experience with this, does the DVI -> HDMI display in full resolution so I can free up the VGA?

Great! I've been frustrated that my DDR on PS2 has been ever so slightly lagging me enough to ruin my playing. I'm definately going to check out that box.

But I currently have a computer connected to the VGA port, the computer has DVI out but I've been wary of trying a DVI to HDMI converter. Anyone have experience with this, does the DVI -> HDMI display in full resolution so I can free up the VGA?

good luck with help on this one lol.. I asked about dvi-hdmi and i have a monster adapter dvi-hdmi and although there is still overscan ut2k3 looks pretty darn decent at just a few feet away and i see no ghosting. I see more ghosting when looking at the sky in DM-antalus pink sky on my alienware laptop wuxga 1600x1200 native reso lcd.

I don't know if we can post links here.. if I can I will make a video of ut2k3 running on it. Or can I post up.

I would also post a video of the heartbeat action the wega did not do this via dvi-hdmi but.. it also had off colored text. Both overscanned and i'm running an evga 6800 ultra with latest tweaksrus drivers. so.. it might be a advanced timing issue on both.. i havent tried powerstrip.

I'll be doing a gallery soon but someone let me know about videos. If so i'll make some. *shrug* :eek:

lines and certain text jump everytime it looks like the screen refreshes but.. it doesn't do it in game or when the pc boots up. it will do it at the ut2k3 hud boxes when not in game but isn't as bad as when in windows. I'm also sitting just a few feet away 4 or less.

Great! I've been frustrated that my DDR on PS2 has been ever so slightly lagging me enough to ruin my playing. I'm definately going to check out that box.

But I currently have a computer connected to the VGA port, the computer has DVI out but I've been wary of trying a DVI to HDMI converter. Anyone have experience with this, does the DVI -> HDMI display in full resolution so I can free up the VGA?

It seems that there is overscan built into the tv. I ended up using the new nvidia drivers and it allows me to "fit to HDTV" and scale the desktop to fit. It ended up with something like 699x1150 or something. The upside is that I should be getting 1:1 pixel mapping but I am not taking advantage or the entire 720 chip in there. My current theory is that the optics were set up to project a larger image than the screen.

It seems that there is overscan built into the tv. I ended up using the new nvidia drivers and it allows me to "fit to HDTV" and scale the desktop to fit. It ended up with something like 699x1150 or something. The upside is that I should be getting 1:1 pixel mapping but I am not taking advantage or the entire 720 chip in there. My current theory is that the optics were set up to project a larger image than the screen.


I'm running 1808x like 940 something(think it was 948) and also right now i'm running 1784x1004 on the 61inch hlr. the still don't fit the screen exactly and yes I got the screen almost perfect on the wega 60a20.

Still refreshes like poo at any setting though. If someone finds a way to stop the "erratic heartbeat" my tv screen has, let me know.

If you want to see videos then i will up them to my isp/ftp in about an hour pm me and i will pm you back the link, PEACE.

good luck with help on this one lol.. I asked about dvi-hdmi and i have a monster adapter dvi-hdmi and although there is still overscan ut2k3 looks pretty darn decent at just a few feet away and i see no ghosting. I see more ghosting when looking at the sky in DM-antalus pink sky on my alienware laptop wuxga 1600x1200 native reso lcd.

I'm only using the computer as a media center, so if it'll do 2d videos and DVD I'd be happy. As long as the DVI-HDMI isn't as worse than VGA, then no problems using a converter. My Geforce4 does Windows MCE just fine, although it does project a bigger picture than the screen, I don't mind missing the few pixels on the outside of videos playing

I am a complete novice, and I have a question regarding picture quality. I seem to be getting a "screen door" effect when any object is in motion. When the object moves, there appears to be tiny black dots between the pixels in the moving object, and then the tv seems to catch up, and the object looked filled in again. Like if you were watching a basketball game, the players jerseys would look like they have tiny black spots on them, between the colored pixels, when they move. The demos at best buy don't seen to do this.

Could this be a problem with the processor, or color wheel, or something that generates the picture? This is my second 6167 (the other one was exchanged due to screen smudges). I don't know whether this is something that can be fixed. Is anyone familiar with this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Quick autoprogram question. I've already autoprogramed my TV but there are a few channels it didn't pick up. If I try to manually go to those channels via typing them in on the remote it still skips right over it. How do I add these particular channels into memory? Thanks

I'm only using the computer as a media center, so if it'll do 2d videos and DVD I'd be happy. As long as the DVI-HDMI isn't as worse than VGA, then no problems using a converter. My Geforce4 does Windows MCE just fine, although it does project a bigger picture than the screen, I don't mind missing the few pixels on the outside of videos playing


havent tried a movie in my pc dvd but i did try ut2k3 via hdmi and it played fine.

"except for the certain text and lines" let me rephrase that qouted part, I meant to say -- except forthe certain text and lines in XP not in ut2k3." -- but im sure it will do fine some text and lines may still be jumpy. i can still type and read anything im tryping this now in '2D' on the hlr. from less than 4 feet away.

i will try it out if i can find my powercinema disc and try out matrix reloaded and i plan to do my gallery in an hour. so ill put alot of screenshots up.


no one still answered me or maybe i'll go back and read all the forums rules but im not sure if we're allowed to post links to videos or pictures of the tv here. because i make 66meg hi-res 640x clips and up them to my isp/ftp account. cableone.

Hi everyone. Just picked up a brand new HLR4264w last week (the Canadian equiv of the HLR4267w). I popped in DVE and noticed that I have some overscan problems. First and foremost, the image is shifted down too much leaving behind a overscan of around 1% on the top and 6% on the bottom. It's quite evident in 2.45:1 anamorphic widescreen movies like Star Wars III where the black bars on the top are much larger than on the bottom. The discrepency is not that bad on the sides, with about 3% on the left side and 1-2% on the right.

I figured out how to enter the service menu and was able to fix this problem. However I just bought an upconverting DVD player (LG LDA-531) and notice that if I make the adjustments in the service menu when viewing at one resolution (e.g. 720p), the settings for the other resolutions are wiped out. I noticed this because first I made all my service menu adjustments for 1080i. Then I switched to 720p and had to make the service menu adjustments again. When I went back to 1080i, the changes I had previously made were set back to factory default! I have the DVD player hooked up using HDMI. I have a suspicion that if I were to go into the service menu again for changing the component signal for my cable box, that all my adjustments for HDMI will also be wiped out.

Does anyone know how to make these service menu adjustments stick? Or should I simply complain to the store I bought it from (Future Shop) since the unit is only a week old and get a new one without these overscan errors?

Hi everyone. Just picked up a brand new HLR4264w last week (the Canadian equiv of the HLR4267w). I popped in DVE and noticed that I have some overscan problems. First and foremost, the image is shifted down too much leaving behind a overscan of around 1% on the top and 6% on the bottom. It's quite evident in 2.45:1 anamorphic widescreen movies like Star Wars III where the black bars on the top are much larger than on the bottom. The discrepency is not that bad on the sides, with about 3% on the left side and 1-2% on the right.

I figured out how to enter the service menu and was able to fix this problem. However I just bought an upconverting DVD player (LG LDA-531) and notice that if I make the adjustments in the service menu when viewing at one resolution (e.g. 720p), the settings for the other resolutions are wiped out. I noticed this because first I made all my service menu adjustments for 1080i. Then I switched to 720p and had to make the service menu adjustments again. When I went back to 1080i, the changes I had previously made were set back to factory default! I have the DVD player hooked up using HDMI. I have a suspicion that if I were to go into the service menu again for changing the component signal for my cable box, that all my adjustments for HDMI will also be wiped out.

Does anyone know how to make these service menu adjustments stick? Or should I simply complain to the store I bought it from (Future Shop) since the unit is only a week old and get a new one without these overscan errors?
I'm not familiar with the 64 series TV's, but you should be aware that overscan issues are often (usually) caused by the DVD player. I would check this out before returning the TV. Check the Secrets of Home Theater DVD review section to see how much overscan your LP player normally exhibits.

Some service menu setting can not be permanently changed and will revert back to factory defaults ... especially setting related to DNIe.

I'm not familiar with the 64 series TV's, but you should be aware that overscan issues are often (usually) caused by the DVD player.

Well from what I've read in this forum the 64 series is the Canadian equivalent of the 67 series, with only minor differences (I think our model doesn't come with a cable card or something like that, and the ability to turn off DNIe). So whatever knowledge you americans have on the 67 should apply to us.

Anyway, I noticed the same overscan problems with my previous DVD player, a Toshiba D-R4 DVD recorder which was hooked up using component. So I really suspect it's the television's fault.

I'm seriously considering getting it replaced by the store unless I can figure out a way to get some of these service menu options to stick. The only one that seems to is the gamma setting which I have changed from 2 to 0.

On another topic, I seem to find 1080i looks better than 720p with this upconverting DVD player. But from what I gather this model has a 720p native resolution. The 1080i image looks sharper IMHO, but I'm wondering if I'm sacrificiing anything since it's not outputting a progressive image. Anybody else with upconverting players have any opinions on the matter?

No, that's not the problem. The audio and video are in sync. The problem is the delay of the TV of outputting the signals is about 500ms behind what the PS2 thinks should be on the screen. Basically, the TV is lagging behind the code, and in tight timing games like Guitar Hero, it's a killer. What I am saying is this solves the game console lag problem, not the video-audio sync problem.

It is a problem for some sets - IF YOU have the sound running direct to a home theater system rather than through the television's built in speakers.

If the television circuitry has to convert the native signal to 720p, I get some lag. The VGA input does not have this issue like the component and HDMI input do.

I am writing what happens with my setup - not what every setup has - so if CM is experiencing something else - I cannot comment on that. I have never gotten any lag gaming on my xbox360 while using the VGA input.

Just got the HLR5067W delivered 3 hours ago. Can pull HD OTA and PQ looks great. Have it on football right now and on commercials it resizes to 4:3 like it's supposed to. When it drops to 4:3 in OTA or run 4:3 SD through my D* DVR (getting HD-DVR Wed) the image on the sides has a pincushion effect. Two ways of looking at it. Black bars slightly bows in or image is bowing out. I have no distortion in 16:9 OTA HD. It's not severe, just annoying as I have adjusted pincushion in CRT PC monitors for years to make the sides as straight as possible.

Just wondering if this is normal. I plan to go to a store to see as well in the next day or two. It's annoying and I just need to know if this normal or not.

Edit: Samsung tech support claims they never heard of this.

Thanks in advance!

When it drops to 4:3 in OTA or run 4:3 SD through my D* DVR (getting HD-DVR Wed) the image on the sides has a pincushion effect. Two ways of looking at it. Black bars slightly bows in or image is bowing out. I have no distortion in 16:9 OTA HD. It's not severe, just annoying as I have adjusted pincushion in CRT PC monitors for years to make the sides as straight as possible.




My 5067W should be delivered in the next day or two so I can't speak from experience yet. Just curious, have you tried placing a straight edge (yard stick, etc.) next to the black bar to verify the distortion? Sometimes your eyes just play tricks on you with these kind of things.

Roger

Some Pincushioning is normal when the width of the picture is reduced. That's a side-effect of the optics, as they are tuned for fullsize screen projection. If I remember correctly, Samsung says it should be 4mm or less curved in at the center compared to the top and bottom. Anything over, and they are willing to fix it.

Doing some planning for my Samsung 5067 installation. I have a Cambridge SoundWorks CenterStage speaker that used to be on a shelf above and behind my Sony 32" CRT. The CenterStage weighs in at 21 lbs. Will this be too heavy to place on a shelf directly on top of the Samsung's cabinet? I don't want to risk damaging the cabinet or the viewing screen. I can relocate the shelf on the wall but not without some effort.


Roger

Thanks, I'll have to look into it further. I was just surprised that it would have pincushion. Called Samsung tech support and they claimed they never heard of it. How strange.

Otherwise, it looks great. I'm not a sportsfan but nothing else was being broadcast in HD and I was mesmerized with the football game. ;)


Some Pincushioning is normal when the width of the picture is reduced. That's a side-effect of the optics, as they are tuned for fullsize screen projection. If I remember correctly, Samsung says it should be 4mm or less curved in at the center compared to the top and bottom. Anything over, and they are willing to fix it.

Will this be too heavy to place on a shelf directly on top of the Samsung's cabinet?

Roger

It's not really a cabinet as such. What you'll be dealing with here is actually more of a "top edge." I suppose you could somehow brace a shelf on top of the bezel (as the frame around the screen seems to be commonly called) but I'm thinking it's time to relocate that shelf on the wall....

I just received my replacement set for my 5067W (had a probelm w/ the lamp working properly) and I think I might be going insane because the set itself seems totally different. The screen on the new one seems very glossy and I'm getting a noticable glare in all types of lighting. The old set definitely didn't seem this way as I specifically remember commenting as to how dull and flat the screen looked when not powered on as opposed to my old CRT RPT set. Is it possible that there are two different versions of this set available, maybe a newer version and an older version, and if so which one do I have? Has anyone else noticed their screen being overly glossy? Also the options in the service menu were basically the same except for an additional menu that I didn't notice with my original set. In this sub menu there are options for Dynamic Contrast, Saturation, Sharpness, and a setting called Picture Sharpness. Now I definitely did not notice this sub menu before so is this maybe a newer model that I have now or an older one. Please help me before my wife has me committed because I'm thinking about calling BB and having them bring another one! Thank You.

Hello,

I have had the Samsung DLP HLR4667W for a few months now and the audio delay is really ticking me off. I have all audio going directly to my receiver and all video going to the tv. When I turn up the volume on the tv along with my surround speakers, there is a clear echo effect and the receiver audio is ahead of the video. If I put all the audio through the tv first, and use the optical audio output from the tv to the receiver everything is perfectly in sync, but I lose dolby digital 5.1 because the tv only has analog L/R inputs.

To fix this, I have been thinking about getting the Denon AVR1706 or AVR686S receiver. This has 3 component video inputs (which I think may help) and an audio delay setting for each digital audio input, up to 200ms.

My question is if anyone else has used a reciever with up to a 200ms delay, and if that was enough of a delay to resync the audio and video with a samsung DLP.. or any DLP for that matter. Does anyone know of other receivers that have more than 200ms delay?

My sync delay seems to be pretty constant on HD content and DVD's. I've already talked to samsung customer service several times and had a tech look at the tv. I finally got them to say that this is "normal behavior", and is "a trade off for a better quality picture". I have also never noticed any video delay problems with my xbox.

Also, I got a great tech on the phone with one of my calls and he sounded very sure that HDMI would definitly pass DD 5.1 to the optical out.

Thanks a lot.

When it drops to 4:3 in OTA or run 4:3 SD through my D* DVR (getting HD-DVR Wed) the image on the sides has a pincushion effect.

Just wondering if this is normal.

See the Samsung faq:

It's normal for the pictures on DLP TVs to be slightly bowed when displaying in the 4:3 or other non-widescreen formats. All DLPs do this to some extent. However, if the bowing exceeds 1/4 inch, that is, the middle of the picture is bowed in more than 1/4 inch from perfectly straight, it is out of spec and you should probably get the TV serviced.

My sync delay seems to be pretty constant on HD content and DVD's. I've already talked to samsung customer service several times and had a tech look at the tv. I finally got them to say that this is "normal behavior", and is "a trade off for a better quality picture". I have also never noticed any video delay problems with my xbox.

Also, I got a great tech on the phone with one of my calls and he sounded very sure that HDMI would definitly pass DD 5.1 to the optical out.

Thanks a lot.

This may not help you but according to the Samsung faq under Why Do My X Box And PS2 Games Have A Time Lag On My DLP TV?:

Samsung HLR series DLPs built after June, 2005 have a Game Mode function that decreases lag.

Look up "How does Game mode Work" in the faq. Basically, you name one of the inputs, preferably componenet, to game.

I have successfully passed through 5.1 to the optical out via firewire and from digital cable.

This may not help you but according to the Samsung faq under Why Do My X Box And PS2 Games Have A Time Lag On My DLP TV?:

Samsung HLR series DLPs built after June, 2005 have a Game Mode function that decreases lag.

Look up "How does Game mode Work" in the faq. Basically, you name one of the inputs, preferably componenet, to game.

I have successfully passed through 5.1 to the optical out via firewire and from digital cable.

I have never noticed any problems with my xbox, and I bought my set at the end of september 05, so I am quite sure that mine was built after june. I think there's a sticker somemplace (or maybe the manual?) where it says the manufacture date.

Also, that's good to know that somebody sucessfully passed 5.1 out from the tv.

Hello,

I have had the Samsung DLP HLR4667W for a few months now and the audio delay is really ticking me off. I have all audio going directly to my receiver and all video going to the tv. When I turn up the volume on the tv along with my surround speakers, there is a clear echo effect and the receiver audio is ahead of the video. If I put all the audio through the tv first, and use the optical audio output from the tv to the receiver everything is perfectly in sync, but I lose dolby digital 5.1 because the tv only has analog L/R inputs.

To fix this, I have been thinking about getting the Denon AVR1706 or AVR686S receiver. This has 3 component video inputs (which I think may help) and an audio delay setting for each digital audio input, up to 200ms.

My question is if anyone else has used a reciever with up to a 200ms delay, and if that was enough of a delay to resync the audio and video with a samsung DLP.. or any DLP for that matter. Does anyone know of other receivers that have more than 200ms delay?

My sync delay seems to be pretty constant on HD content and DVD's. I've already talked to samsung customer service several times and had a tech look at the tv. I finally got them to say that this is "normal behavior", and is "a trade off for a better quality picture". I have also never noticed any video delay problems with my xbox.

Also, I got a great tech on the phone with one of my calls and he sounded very sure that HDMI would definitly pass DD 5.1 to the optical out.

Thanks a lot.


The maximum leading audio time I have encountered is 130 msec. 200 will be more than enough to compensate for what I have seen. I currently have mine set to 95 and it seems perfect.

The maximum leading audio time I have encountered is 130 msec. 200 will be more than enough to compensate for what I have seen. I currently have mine set to 95 and it seems perfect.

Excellent, that gives me the confidence I was looking for. Thanks!

Quick autoprogram question. I've already autoprogramed my TV but there are a few channels it didn't pick up. If I try to manually go to those channels via typing them in on the remote it still skips right over it. How do I add these particular channels into memory? Thanks

Any ideas on this? ^^ I really want to get a few channels I know are coming in but didn't get caught on the autoprogram. Thanks

Any ideas on this? ^^ I really want to get a few channels I know are coming in but didn't get caught on the autoprogram. Thanks

Try going to the channel setup in the menu, then add/delete channels. This allows you to use ch+/- keys to go up and down channels, and it will stop on channels that arent' usually in memory.

Example, if 77-1 and 77-3 are in the memory, if you just normally hit ch+ while on 77-1, it will go right to 77-3. When you are in this mode, it should go to 77-2. If it doesn't, then it didn't find anything on that channel.

With my cable, the autoscan got like 250 channels, however several were just blank, b/c they are the QAM channels for digital cable that are scrambled(ie G4, discovery home, discovery wings, espnews, etc and HD cable channels). There is a difference between those channels(which show up in add/delete channel mode, it's getting a signal, but it's just encrypted) and channels where there is no signal at all(which don't show up on add/delete channel mode)

Hopefully that makes some sense.

Is there an advantage or disadvantage to routing the video signals through my Sony receiver? Each input, DVD, VCR, etc. has video in/out connectors, but I thought it might be best just to send the video to the 5067 and the audio to the receiver. And this is how the Samsung connector guide recommended I do it.

Your thoughts?


Roger

Is there an advantage or disadvantage to routing the video signals through my Sony receiver? Each input, DVD, VCR, etc. has video in/out connectors, but I thought it might be best just to send the video to the 5067 and the audio to the receiver. And this is how the Samsung connector guide recommended I do it.

Your thoughts?


Roger

Try it with both, if you are using component. With the video going to the TV, and audio going to the receiver, you might get video lag. Generally I would say stick with audio to the reciever, video to the display.

As long as you aren't using HDMI, some people have reported problems with handshaking protocols and reported the displays won't display the picture if you route HDMI through the reciever, but they work if you rout the HDMI directly to the display.

Hi - I posted this on the parallel thread, but had no response yet - trying this thread instead.

I have young kids, so I was wondering if there is any way to attach this TV to the stand so that it does not fall down in case one of the kids accidentally gets behind the TV and pushes it slightly. I have a 32'' Toshiba CRT, which is heavy enough where I can barely move it, so there is no way kids could tip of over, but these new DLP TVs do not seem to be very sturdy. I have tried it in the store and it takes very little effort for the TV to get off-balance.

Any ideas out there from the other buyers with young kids?
Is there any way to "tip-over-proof" it

Thanks!

-DK

Hi - I posted this on the parallel thread, but had no response yet - trying this thread instead.

I have young kids, so I was wondering if there is any way to attach this TV to the stand so that it does not fall down in case one of the kids accidentally gets behind the TV and pushes it slightly. I have a 32'' Toshiba CRT, which is heavy enough where I can barely move it, so there is no way kids could tip of over, but these new DLP TVs do not seem to be very sturdy. I have tried it in the store and it takes very little effort for the TV to get off-balance.

Any ideas out there from the other buyers with young kids?
Is there any way to "tip-over-proof" it

Thanks!

-DK
Yes, it would be easy to attach the TV to the stand. There are several approaches. Probably the easiest would be to use one (or more) of the chassis screws to anchor a rope or wire to the stand. But, then how are you going to anchor the stand to the floor .... :D :D :D .

A friend has the same issue, so I will post what he did.

He didn't anchor the TV to the stand, he anchored the TV to the wall. I don't remember the exact screws or position he used on the back of the TV, but he explained to me all he did was use some plastic strapping on the screws, and then used wood screws to anchor the strapping to studs in the walls.

Hi - I posted this on the parallel thread, but had no response yet - trying this thread instead.

I have young kids, so I was wondering if there is any way to attach this TV to the stand so that it does not fall down in case one of the kids accidentally gets behind the TV and pushes it slightly. I have a 32'' Toshiba CRT, which is heavy enough where I can barely move it, so there is no way kids could tip of over, but these new DLP TVs do not seem to be very sturdy. I have tried it in the store and it takes very little effort for the TV to get off-balance.

Any ideas out there from the other buyers with young kids?
Is there any way to "tip-over-proof" it

Thanks!

-DK

Google "earthquake straps." Easy to install and inexpensive. Here...I'll get you started: http://www.emprep.com/earthquake%20fasteners.html

First off I realize that this is a thread about the HL***67w, but I am curious to hear from owners who have the 66w (42 inch) model since there are differences between the two...and if I should direct this to the other thread please let me know.

Background:
I am new to the whole HDTV, being that I currently have a 14 y/o JVC.

Basically I am thinking of spending around $2,000 total on a new TV and I have been starting to do my research and I really like this particular DLP, however I would like to hear first hand what some of you think. Pros, Cons...things I should consider.

Also any other suggestions you have as far as things to look for in a new TV please let me know.

Thanks

First off I realize that this is a thread about the HL***67w, but I am curious to hear from owners who have the 66w (42 inch) model since there are differences between the two...and if I should direct this to the other thread please let me know.

Background:
I am new to the whole HDTV, being that I currently have a 14 y/o JVC.

Basically I am thinking of spending around $2,000 total on a new TV and I have been starting to do my research and I really like this particular DLP, however I would like to hear first hand what some of you think. Pros, Cons...things I should consider.

Also any other suggestions you have as far as things to look for in a new TV please let me know.

Thanks
The main differences between the 66 series and the 67 series sets are described in this POST: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?postid=4954868#post4954868

I am familiar with both the HLR4667W and the HLR4266W. The 4667 has a better screen and I would recommend stepping up to that unit if you can. The new models will be out in April or May ... that mean there will be discounting on the current sets starting in March.

I've been reading this thread for about a month now but until now I haven't been an "owner." My HL-R5067W was delivered this morning and I thought I would give my initial impressions after 5 hours of use. So far I have been pretty happy, though I haven't had the chance to watch primetime HD yet. Below are my experiences with some of the things that interested/concerned me.

Audio lag: Since I just bought my first 5.1 setup (although a cheap one), I was concerned that this would be a problem when watching DVDs. For reference, I have a Sony non-progressive scan DVD player hooked up to a Sony 5.1 system via digital coaxial (connected to the TV via component). Audio lag is not an issue. If I turn up the TV speakers at the same time as the audio system, I can hear an echo, but with the TV audio turned all the way down voices do not appear to be out of synch. My audio receiver does have an optional 65ms delay but I see no need to use it.

Game Lag: I tried an Xbox (via component), GameCube (via component), and Super Nintendo (via composite) on my new TV. On Xbox and GameCube I had no noticable problems in either progressive or interlaced mode, though I don't have any games with meters that require precise timing. The Super Nintendo had noticable lag and, though playable, just didn't "feel" right. I wasn't really expecting to play a lot of Super Nintendo anyway, but I wanted to try it out. Overall, I'm satisfied with the current-gen gaming experience.

HD via Cable: Similar to several others, I receive HD local stations through my regular cable, in addition to some random digital cable channels (3 channels of Fox College Sports?), and, apparently, whatever people have ordered on Pay-Per View (Mr. and Mrs. Smith was on earlier today).

Analog Channels: Vary, but most aren't too bad. I was expecting worse, so I'm pretty happy with them.

SSE: I saw some SSE on The Lord of the Rings. It wasn't too bad but it would be better if there was none at all. I'm not sure how much it should be attributed to the 480i source and how much it should be attributed to the TV. I can live with it, though.

Overall, I'm happy so far, which is good considering that the TV cost a lot of money.

What is going to be the difference between the '05 models and the '06 models?

Do you typically know what kind of price break we are talking on th e'05's when the new ones come out

I Have To Say This! Amazon.com! Hl-r5067w, $1799 Delivered!

I Know I'm In Violation. If You Must Boot Me. But People Need To Know!

Yeah, I ordered it a week ago for that price...$1799 is a great deal.

I ordered mine last week at Amazon when it was $90 cheaper than that.

I Have To Say This! Amazon.com! Hl-r5067w, $1799 Delivered!

I Know I'm In Violation. If You Must Boot Me. But People Need To Know!


Check out vanns.com if you're shopping for this line of DLP's... I got mine there over 6 months ago cheaper delivered with 3 year warranty including bulb replacement than what you can get it for now at Best Buy even after the 1080p sets came out.

Their shipping was first rate too...

Q: Do you have your Sammy sitting flush with the legs of the TR46X3 stand?

I bought the TR46X3 stand and the Hl-R5667 in December. the legs stick out and dangle in the air, leaving me with two choices: (1) set the TV back so that it is not flush with/resting (which means the legs dangle but the entire underside of the TV is supported), or (2) push the TV forward so that the front of the tv is flush with the legs which means part of the underside of the TV underneath the bezel is not supports (and in fact if you look underneath, some of the rubber feet things are expose now) but the legs dont dangle out their and it's a smooth line from floor of the stand's legs all the way up to the top of the tv.

Q: Do you have your Sammy sitting flush with the legs of the TR46X3 stand?

I bought the TR46X3 stand and the Hl-R5667 in December. the legs stick out and dangle in the air, leaving me with two choices: (1) set the TV back so that it is not flush with/resting (which means the legs dangle but the entire underside of the TV is supported), or (2) push the TV forward so that the front of the tv is flush with the legs which means part of the underside of the TV underneath the bezel is not supports (and in fact if you look underneath, some of the rubber feet things are expose now) but the legs dont dangle out their and it's a smooth line from floor of the stand's legs all the way up to the top of the tv.

The TR46X3 stand has a basic design defect in that it does not support the front of the TV. If you look back in this thread, you'll see many references to this issue.

Ameriwood Industries is the stand manufacturer, has admitted to the problem, and has already designed a proper top piece. They will replace it at no charge. I got mine a few weeks ago, and am satisfied.

Contact information at Ameriwood can be found above a month or so back. Do a search on Ameriwood Industries within this thread.

Did I do something wrong or piss everyone off in any way? The reason I ask this is because my last couple posts, which were questions, have gone unanswered. I've noticed that almost everyother post that is asking a question or for an opinion has been answered so the only thing I can think of is that I must have done something wrong.

I just received my replacement set for my 5067W (had a probelm w/ the lamp working properly) and I think I might be going insane because the set itself seems totally different. The screen on the new one seems very glossy and I'm getting a noticable glare in all types of lighting. The old set definitely didn't seem this way as I specifically remember commenting as to how dull and flat the screen looked when not powered on as opposed to my old CRT RPT set. Is it possible that there are two different versions of this set available, maybe a newer version and an older version, and if so which one do I have? Has anyone else noticed their screen being overly glossy? Also the options in the service menu were basically the same except for an additional menu that I didn't notice with my original set. In this sub menu there are options for Dynamic Contrast, Saturation, Sharpness, and a setting called Picture Sharpness. Now I definitely did not notice this sub menu before so is this maybe a newer model that I have now or an older one. Please help me before my wife has me committed because I'm thinking about calling BB and having them bring another one! Thank You.
My new 5067W (delivered yesterday) does not have a glossy screen. I have not accessed the service menu, so I can't answer your question about that. I'm not aware of two versions, so I'm not sure what happened with yours. Mine looks like all of the pictures I have seen and all of the units I have seen in store displays.

The TR46X3 stand has a basic design defect in that it does not support the front of the TV. If you look back in this thread, you'll see many references to this issue.

Ameriwood Industries is the stand manufacturer, has admitted to the problem, and has already designed a proper top piece. They will replace it at no charge. I got mine a few weeks ago, and am satisfied.

Contact information at Ameriwood can be found above a month or so back. Do a search on Ameriwood Industries within this thread.

Thanks Carl, I couldn't tell if the new stand I had bought "is" the fix for what people were complaining of in the past or not. I'll find the Ameriwood contact information. Thanks for the quick turn around, I appreciate it!

Did I do something wrong or piss everyone off in any way? The reason I ask this is because my last couple posts, which were questions, have gone unanswered. I've noticed that almost everyother post that is asking a question or for an opinion has been answered so the only thing I can think of is that I must have done something wrong.

I don't think so. I re-read your original post, and your situation seems strange indeed. I got my 4667 in June of '05, and it has a soft screen that doesn't reflect much of any ambient light. What you're describing looks like my older RCA 6061, with an almst mirror-like front surface. Very annoying when there is any kind of light in the room.

I suggest you go up the Samsung service chain of command until you find someone who understands what you are talking about.

Carl

I Have To Say This! Amazon.com! Hl-r5067w, $1799 Delivered!

I Know I'm In Violation. If You Must Boot Me. But People Need To Know!


I have read references to discussions about pricing being restricted on this forum and, although I can't find it in the "Forum Rules" can somebody tell me why this is a bad thing? I mean, isn't the prices paid for the items we are discussing here germane to topic?

Carl,

Thank you for responding to my post. I went back into BB the other night to look at the display model again to compare aand wouldn't you know it but they had an "open box item" unit of the 5067W on the showroom wall. After looking at it closely I realized that this unit was in fact the TV I had returned, I knew this was mine because as I was painting my new wall shelf for my center speaker I must have had some paint on my hand because there was a white fingerprint left on the back of the TV near the inputs and I happened to be using white paint. So, so much for BB's so called "as good as new open box items", because I know that TV had a defective lamp, but anyways the whole point I was trying to make is that their display model (manufacturers date of Sept. 2005) has the same glossy screen as my new one and the "open box" (my old one, manufacturers date of April 2005) had the flat matte screen. I pointed this out to the salesman, much to his surprise because he said he's pretty familiar w/ these TV's and had never noticed that before. My new one one has a manufacturers date of November 2005 so I my only guess is that the more recent versions of this model are coming equipped with these high gloss screens. Now, after viewing this TV for a couple days I'm not too sure which one I prefer, although the glossy screen does produce a slight glare effect I think the picture appears to "pop out" more than the matte finish. If you don't mind, please check your screens and post what you find, I'd be interested to see how many of each there are out there. Thanks.

Carl,

Thank you for responding to my post. I went back into BB the other night to look at the display model again to compare aand wouldn't you know it but they had an "open box item" unit of the 5067W on the showroom wall. After looking at it closely I realized that this unit was in fact the TV I had returned, I knew this was mine because as I was painting my new wall shelf for my center speaker I must have had some paint on my hand because there was a white fingerprint left on the back of the TV near the inputs and I happened to be using white paint. So, so much for BB's so called "as good as new open box items", because I know that TV had a defective lamp, but anyways the whole point I was trying to make is that their display model (manufacturers date of Sept. 2005) has the same glossy screen as my new one and the "open box" (my old one, manufacturers date of April 2005) had the flat matte screen. I pointed this out to the salesman, much to his surprise because he said he's pretty familiar w/ these TV's and had never noticed that before. My new one one has a manufacturers date of November 2005 so I my only guess is that the more recent versions of this model are coming equipped with these high gloss screens. Now, after viewing this TV for a couple days I'm not too sure which one I prefer, although the glossy screen does produce a slight glare effect I think the picture appears to "pop out" more than the matte finish. If you don't mind, please check your screens and post what you find, I'd be interested to see how many of each there are out there. Thanks.

I have a 4667W manufactured in August 2005, and it appears to be pretty matte to me. I like it, and think that it reduces glare, especially in dark scenes.

Hello~
This is my first post :)

I bought new crt Philips TV about 6months ago and it broke after 3 months.
Tried to fix with warranty but it never worked out. The repair center screwed appointment twice and I lost my 2 day off (w/o payment), so I had to give up that TV.

I was so sad and angry about their service. So no more Philips and go with Samsung :P
Then now I got a new HDTV! he he
Just bought 5067W. I spent a month on this web to read all the informations.
THX guys~~

I am so impressed with HD channels and SD is also good look. I worried about rainbow effects but I can stand for it. Now it just connected with PC and PS2.
I tested DVD and Dvix movies thru PC, and it looks Good.
Also somehow I got some free HD channels :P
I am so satisfied with this TV. ^^;

The one thing bothers me little is pincushion on both left and right side on PC mode and 4:3 TV channel. Seems like it is one of the disadvantage on RP TV...

Now I need DVD player and speakers. I am thinking of Oppo and YHT 360(or Onkyo 580) or refurbished HK CP15(if i can win on ebay) as a newbi on these things.
Anyone can give me recommendation?

This forum really helped me to get information and purchasing TV. Thanks again~~

>Google "earthquake straps." Easy to install and inexpensive. Here...I'll get you
>started: <snip>cannot post urls</snip>

Thanks everybody for the suggestions ! I thought there might be an easy solution :)

Interestingly local higher-end electronics store sales rep had no ideas on the possible solution options ...

I will post an update when I get a TV and figure out how to secure it.

-DK

I have a 4667W manufactured in August 2005, and it appears to be pretty matte to me. I like it, and think that it reduces glare, especially in dark scenes.
I have a 5067W manufactured in December 2005 and the screen is matte, not glossy.

Just purchased the 5067 a couple weeks ago and it's great. The only thing I am having a problem with is displaying my PC over the TV. I connected my laptop via VGA cable (25 foot - is that too long??) and then turned the source to PC and I get nothing. Additionally, when I am on the PC source and go into the menu when I try to select PC (to change some of the settings) it's grayed out so it doesn't appear to recognizing anything.

I then called Samsung and told them of my setup and the problem and the guy thought it may have something to do with the fact that I have a cable box hooked up to the tv (even though I told him I had satelitte but he said it didn't make a difference) and it wasn't detecting the pc so he told unhook the connections, unplug the tv for 10 minutes and try again. I did but no change. Anyone else have a similar problem or know how I might go about fixing it?

Thanks.

Just purchased the 5067 a couple weeks ago and it's great. The only thing I am having a problem with is displaying my PC over the TV. I connected my laptop via VGA cable (25 foot - is that too long??) and then turned the source to PC and I get nothing. Additionally, when I am on the PC source and go into the menu when I try to select PC (to change some of the settings) it's grayed out so it doesn't appear to recognizing anything.

I then called Samsung and told them of my setup and the problem and the guy thought it may have something to do with the fact that I have a cable box hooked up to the tv (even though I told him I had satelitte but he said it didn't make a difference) and it wasn't detecting the pc so he told unhook the connections, unplug the tv for 10 minutes and try again. I did but no change. Anyone else have a similar problem or know how I might go about fixing it?

Thanks.

If i'm understanding you, you may need to change some settings on the pc. How are you connecting the pc to the tv? Does your video card have multiple heads.. like a vga and dvi connector? Or are you just going straight from the vga on the video card to the vga in on the tv... Maybe a problem with the resolution that the video card is outputting and what the tv can accept? I'm not sure what would happen if you tried to feed the tv a 1280x1024 or 1600x1200 resolution signal.

If i'm understanding you, you may need to change some settings on the pc. How are you connecting the pc to the tv? Does your video card have multiple heads.. like a vga and dvi connector? Or are you just going straight from the vga on the video card to the vga in on the tv... Maybe a problem with the resolution that the video card is outputting and what the tv can accept? I'm not sure what would happen if you tried to feed the tv a 1280x1024 or 1600x1200 resolution signal.

thx for the quick response. I connected the VGA cable from the back of the laptop (don't have DVI connection) directly to the TV.

Re: the resolution I followed the manual and adjusted the PC display resolution 1020x720 @ 60 htz (I believe off the top of my head) but I was able to adjust it on the PC to what the manual requested.

thx for the quick response. I connected the VGA cable from the back of the laptop (don't have DVI connection) directly to the TV.

Re: the resolution I followed the manual and adjusted the PC display resolution 1020x720 @ 60 htz (I believe off the top of my head) but I was able to adjust it on the PC to what the manual requested.

Oh, if it's a laptop you usually have to hold down a function key and hit another one to change the display from the laptop lcd to the tv, or to both. There may be a setting within the display properties window but i'm sure it varies from brand to brand.

Oh, if it's a laptop you usually have to hold down a function key and hit another one to change the display from the laptop lcd to the tv, or to both. There may be a setting within the display properties window but i'm sure it varies from brand to brand.

I'll try that. Thx.

I recently purchased a HL-R5067W (about a month ago). I have been having issues with it locking up. I have the following connected:

XBOX 360 connected via component, with audio running to a receiver.
Scientific Atlanta DVR8300HD connected via HDMI
PC connected via VGA
Gamecube connected via composite

The optical out on the TV is running back to the receiver (for the audio coming in over HDMI).

I have had this problem for most of the time I've had it (I think I noticed it about a week and a half or two weeks after I purchased the set). I have had the problem when watching TV via the DVR8300HD and while playing the XBOX 360. The 360 was a recent purchase and this problem was occuring prior to that.

I _think_ it seems to happen more when I have multiple inputs actually up and running/powered on (DVR and PC, DVR and 360). It happens the most when I'm playing the 360 but it has happened numerous times prior to picking up the 360.

The TV seems to "freeze", the image is still there, and I know the 360 is still going because I can hear the audio. When I am watching TV the audio and video freeze since they're both going through the TV. It will sit there like that for maybe half a minute to a minute, then reset itself.

Any suggestions at all? I have the extended warranty and it's new, so I have no problems calling someone out, but I'd like to know if anyone has encountered this before.

Thanks for your time!

Hello~
This is my first post :)


Now I need DVD player and speakers. I am thinking of Oppo and YHT 360(or Onkyo 580) or refurbished HK CP15(if i can win on ebay) as a newbi on these things.
Anyone can give me recommendation?


Just be careful with the Oppo. I know people have raved about it, and I also purchased one, but had horrible macroblocking with it. No matter how much I calibrated (with Avia/DVE), it still never really went away. Switched over to the Samsung 950 and hacked the component to upscale at 720P. Have to say that the picture is at least comparable to the Oppo and much less macroblocking. Plus, I'm able to get 720P via Component rather than sacrificing my HDMI port, which is needed by the Oppo.

I know some others on the thread have been greatly impressed with their Oppo, but I'm not as big of a fan.

stumacdo :
Thanks for the info.
Actually I was hesitating to order Oppo because of macroblocking problem. Wondered how bad macroblocking was on Samsung DLP. Hmmm... seems like Oppo doesn't go with this TV well??

Flyer_70 :
I also connected my laptop with TV. In my case, I went to video menu on laptop and chose the option-cloning display or something.

I recently purchased a HL-R5067W (about a month ago). I have been having issues with it locking up. I have the following connected:

XBOX 360 connected via component, with audio running to a receiver.
Scientific Atlanta DVR8300HD connected via HDMI
PC connected via VGA
Gamecube connected via composite

The optical out on the TV is running back to the receiver (for the audio coming in over HDMI).

I have had this problem for most of the time I've had it (I think I noticed it about a week and a half or two weeks after I purchased the set). I have had the problem when watching TV via the DVR8300HD and while playing the XBOX 360. The 360 was a recent purchase and this problem was occuring prior to that.

I _think_ it seems to happen more when I have multiple inputs actually up and running/powered on (DVR and PC, DVR and 360). It happens the most when I'm playing the 360 but it has happened numerous times prior to picking up the 360.

The TV seems to "freeze", the image is still there, and I know the 360 is still going because I can hear the audio. When I am watching TV the audio and video freeze since they're both going through the TV. It will sit there like that for maybe half a minute to a minute, then reset itself.

Any suggestions at all? I have the extended warranty and it's new, so I have no problems calling someone out, but I'd like to know if anyone has encountered this before.

Thanks for your time!

This may be a long shot, but there is a "Still" button on the TV remote, which freezes the picture. Maybe that button is sticking?!? Either check that button (underneath the sliding cover at the bottom), or take the batteries out of the remote and see if you still have a "freezing/locking up" problem. Like I said, it's a long shot, but it might be worth a try.

Okay so I bought a SAMSUNG DLP HDTV Model HLR4266W on 01.16.2006. Before doing this I had done a whole bunch of research because not only did I want a quality television but also a complete home theater setup. After reading the manual for this television online, I decided this television fit my plan perfectly. My plan was to run all devices through a hdmi switch such as Gefen's EXT-HDMI-441 and then to the television. If my television got a Dolby Digital 5.1 input fire up the reciever and listen to it in surround sound style. My DVD player I would run directly to the receiver to support DTS. Perfect setup right. Wrong!!! As many of you have pointed out Samsung's HLR line does not support optical passthrough from an HDMI input. All I have to say is WHAT THE FUDGE!!! HDMI has supported Dolby Digital since version 1.1 I believe. How come Samsung's television does not support a simple passthrough? I did not find out about this issue until I checked Samsung troubleshooting online to find out why I could not do this. I wrote them an email asking why this was not written out in the manual and if there was a possible upgrade to fix the problem (I am guessing there is not one). I also asked what television(s) in their DLP line does support optical out passthrough. I am waiting for a response.

My question to forum members (and yes I have searched but I am going to ask anyway) is there a way around this short of plugging in every device directly into the reciever. I only have two optical ins on my receiver so that is going be a pain in you know where to do as I am going to have more optical ins than my receiver supports, STB, DVD player, XBox and/or XBox360, PS2, and HD-DVD player (when they come out).

If this is not possible, can anyone suggest a television in Samsung or another manufacturer's line that supports Dolby Digital 5.1 passthrough? I love the television but find this to be extremely frustrating.

Jeremy

First off let me say that thanks to this site.

All the research here led me to pickup the HLR5067W also led me to contact the maker of the stand. Love the look of the stand but can see how it could bow.

Was delivered Tuesday and I love it. Now I have been searching these forums and can not find the answer I'm looking for.

I have comcast with an Scientific Atlantic box (i think 8000).

I went through the wizard and have all the options selected and have the box set to passthrough so the TV receives the signal how it is sent. And I have the box set to normal screen.

Here is my problem, on the TV there is no option for me to select view image as it is sent. I either have to select 16:9, Panaramic, Zoom1, Zoom2, 4:3.

So basically how can I have the TV recognize the signal and display it that way.

If it's 480 display in 4:3, if it's 720, 1080 display in WideScreen.

Thanks in advance for any help.

Here is a picture of my new HLR5067W.
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d60/adilettante/SamsungHLR5067W.jpg
The stand is by Bush (model VS39536) that I built without the rotating top and center storage door.

Here is my problem, on the TV there is no option for me to select view image as it is sent. I either have to select 16:9, Panaramic, Zoom1, Zoom2, 4:3.

So basically how can I have the TV recognize the signal and display it that way.

If it's 480 display in 4:3, if it's 720, 1080 display in WideScreen.

Thanks in advance for any help.
I'm not positive, but I think you might need to set your cable box to pass the signal through as it is received. The TV seems to remember the picture setting based on signal type. For example, if I set my image to 4:3 on an SD channel and switch to an HD channel, the TV displays it in 16:9. My cable runs directly into my TV, though, so your setup might be different.

Hey dilettante, where did you get those sleek silver spacers that fit under the floating screen? I've been looking for something similar but can't find ANYTHING at the local hardware stores. If anyone else has spacers and can tell me where to get them, I would VERY much appreciate it!

I recently purchased a HL-R5067W (about a month ago). I have been having issues with it locking up. I have the following connected:

XBOX 360 connected via component, with audio running to a receiver.
Scientific Atlanta DVR8300HD connected via HDMI
PC connected via VGA
Gamecube connected via composite

The optical out on the TV is running back to the receiver (for the audio coming in over HDMI).

I have had this problem for most of the time I've had it (I think I noticed it about a week and a half or two weeks after I purchased the set). I have had the problem when watching TV via the DVR8300HD and while playing the XBOX 360. The 360 was a recent purchase and this problem was occuring prior to that.

I _think_ it seems to happen more when I have multiple inputs actually up and running/powered on (DVR and PC, DVR and 360). It happens the most when I'm playing the 360 but it has happened numerous times prior to picking up the 360.

The TV seems to "freeze", the image is still there, and I know the 360 is still going because I can hear the audio. When I am watching TV the audio and video freeze since they're both going through the TV. It will sit there like that for maybe half a minute to a minute, then reset itself.

Any suggestions at all? I have the extended warranty and it's new, so I have no problems calling someone out, but I'd like to know if anyone has encountered this before.

Thanks for your time!


I have had this problem you describe, although only two times. This only occurs when I am using the TV tuner. My tv gets some channels which are feeds of ppl in my building watching ondemand shows. These channels are weird, and I have had 2 of them freeze the picture, can't change channels, none of the remote buttons work, etc. After about 30 seconds, the picture goes blank, and the tuner "resets" itself, you can hear a quiet "click" again in the back, like the first time you switch to the tuner mode from HDMI(my DVR box).

You aren't the only one who has seen it, but I'm not sure I can help you any more. :(

Hey dilettante, where did you get those sleek silver spacers that fit under the floating screen? I've been looking for something similar but can't find ANYTHING at the local hardware stores. If anyone else has spacers and can tell me where to get them, I would VERY much appreciate it!
Your question made me laugh. The "sleek silver spacers" are just the foam pieces that came inserted there to protect the TV in the box. Given the potential for problems with the plastic bending I figured I would just play it safe and leave them in. My girlfriend thought they were supposed to be there until I pointed them out to her. I wish there was some way to make them less visible since I like the look of the floating screen, but they don't look too bad for foam packing materials.

Just purchased the 5067 a couple weeks ago and it's great. The only thing I am having a problem with is displaying my PC over the TV. I connected my laptop via VGA cable (25 foot - is that too long??) and then turned the source to PC and I get nothing. Additionally, when I am on the PC source and go into the menu when I try to select PC (to change some of the settings) it's grayed out so it doesn't appear to recognizing anything.

I then called Samsung and told them of my setup and the problem and the guy thought it may have something to do with the fact that I have a cable box hooked up to the tv (even though I told him I had satelitte but he said it didn't make a difference) and it wasn't detecting the pc so he told unhook the connections, unplug the tv for 10 minutes and try again. I did but no change. Anyone else have a similar problem or know how I might go about fixing it?

Thanks.

you did press the alt+f5 or f7 key to activate the output right???? check your manual for which key it is on your particular laptop.

Damn...I'll take them off of your hand if you don't like them :)

I'm looking for a solution since I had regular styrofoam in my box, and now have the black spacers that Ameriwood was sending out (though I don't have an Ameriwood stand). The bending isn't a factor, but there is some VERY slight bowing if I run the length of the floating screen with my knuckle.

Does anyone have spacers for the TV or know where to get them? Thanks!

I'm not positive, but I think you might need to set your cable box to pass the signal through as it is received. The TV seems to remember the picture setting based on signal type. For example, if I set my image to 4:3 on an SD channel and switch to an HD channel, the TV displays it in 16:9. My cable runs directly into my TV, though, so your setup might be different.

hmm I have my cable box set to pass trhough. So if I set my TV to display 4:3 on 480i it'll stay that way on all 480i.

I swore it switched maybe I'm mistaken. I'll look again, thanks.

stumacdo, I looked at BestBuy's site and see the Samsung 845 and 850 but no 950. Where is it available?

stumacdo, I looked at BestBuy's site and see the Samsung 845 and 850 but no 950. Where is it available?

I just purchased mine through Amazon and it was shipped from J&R. Beautiful picture but I dislike the overly bright display. At least it can be turned off...

Roger

Uh-Oh, I thought I was going to be okay since I don't have the matching stand. I guess I'll call around and try to get the styrofoam from another delivery held for me. Guess I misread all the posts about the plastic bowing as I skimmed them since I don't have that stand.

My HL-R5067W was delivered on Sunday. Should I be concerned about bowing?

Thanks in advance!

Your question made me laugh. The "sleek silver spacers" are just the foam pieces that came inserted there to protect the TV in the box. Given the potential for problems with the plastic bending I figured I would just play it safe and leave them in. My girlfriend thought they were supposed to be there until I pointed them out to her. I wish there was some way to make them less visible since I like the look of the floating screen, but they don't look too bad for foam packing materials.

Hello everyone. I've read up on this line of Samsun DLPs, and think that overall it sounds like an excellent TV. But the Sony 34" XBR960 is also a nice television. Which one of these two would you pick? I know they are both different sizes and technologies, but that's one of the problems I'm having in deciding which one to get.

Thanks.

Hi all. I’m new on this board so I’m not sure this post belongs here. I just purchased an HL-R5067W and I set it up last night. Didn’t have too much time to play around but I found that my DVD player doesn’t fill the entire screen.

The DVD is labeled as Widescreen (Polar Express) and I had the size on 16:9. When the DVD played it had horizontal bars on the top and bottom of the screen. I thought a widescreen DVD would fill the entire DLP screen when in the DLP is in 16:9 mode. I had to use Zoom2 to fill the screen but lost some of the content on both sides.

I know someone out here has the answer to save me from reading!

Thanks and TGIF!

Steve

I thought a widescreen DVD would fill the entire DLP screen when in the DLP is in 16:9 mode.

No, movies come in many different aspect ratios. 16:9 is 1.77:1, most movies come in 1.85:1 so any widescreen DVD you get will have some black bars because the ratios aren't the same. Some movies go all the way up to 2.35:1 like Batman Begins and LOTR are you get huge black bars. This will happen on any HDTV, not just the Samsung you have, and the black bars are smaller than they would be on a similarly sized 4:3 television.

stumacdo, I looked at BestBuy's site and see the Samsung 845 and 850 but no 950. Where is it available?

I actually got the model # wrong - the model # I have is the HD941. I actually ordered it online from walmart.com - but they don't seem to have it in stock now. A quick search online showed it (refurbished) for a pretty decent price.

You'd just want to make sure (if you're connecting your DVD via Component) that the player can upconvert to 720P. I'm not sure about the other Samsung DVD players, but I know that the 941 can up-convert via component by applying a easy remote control hack. Being that it looks like the 941 isn't being manufactured anymore, I wonder if the 950 (newer model) has the same capability ?

No, movies come in many different aspect ratios. 16:9 is 1.77:1, most movies come in 1.85:1 so any widescreen DVD you get will have some black bars because the ratios aren't the same. Some movies go all the way up to 2.35:1 like Batman Begins and LOTR are you get huge black bars. This will happen on any HDTV, not just the Samsung you have, and the black bars are smaller than they would be on a similarly sized 4:3 television.

:) That explains it. I thought i was missing something simple in the set up :rolleyes:

hmm I have my cable box set to pass trhough. So if I set my TV to display 4:3 on 480i it'll stay that way on all 480i.

I swore it switched maybe I'm mistaken. I'll look again, thanks.

I was mistaken it does set it based on the the incoming signal. So if I set 480i/p to be 4:3 all the signals come in 4:3.

Although the only down fall is that when I play DVD's through the 360 it stays as a 480 even it if's a widscreen movie so I have to change it, but not a big deal.

One thing I notice on my tv, I have the matching stand and it is set properly on the stand, but the little black feet under the tv in the middle are actually supported by the front of the stand, just barely but the center of the feet are on the stand. Not sure if this was a change or not in the stand.

Thanks again.

I actually got the model # wrong - the model # I have is the HD941. I actually ordered it online from walmart.com - but they don't seem to have it in stock now. A quick search online showed it (refurbished) for a pretty decent price.

You'd just want to make sure (if you're connecting your DVD via Component) that the player can upconvert to 720P. I'm not sure about the other Samsung DVD players, but I know that the 941 can up-convert via component by applying a easy remote control hack. Being that it looks like the 941 isn't being manufactured anymore, I wonder if the 950 (newer model) has the same capability ?


I just purchased the HD950 and it upconverts to 720 and 1080. This really does improve the image quality on your Samsung HLR! I'm using HDMI (cable included with the HD950) and the picture is excellent, though not as specatacular as OTA HD broadcasts, but, of course, it depends on the quality of the origianal source. I haven't tested the component output for quality since I assumed the digital data transfer would be better.

You should be able to get the HD950 delivered in 2-3 days from Amazon for well under $200. I really like the simple appearance of this player, but the overly-bright readout is an annoyance. But it's possible to turn it off via the menu when playing discs.

I get my digital cable installed tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing how the 5067W performs when fed a stronger signal. I'll also play with the optical out from the set to the receiver to see if I can get 5.1 audio rather than just 3/2.1.


Roger

I purchased the Tech Craft Bernini Series 52" TV Stand HK52B from StandsandMounts.

I like it much better than the Samsung stands or anything else I found in either BB or CC stores.

Delivery was fast and flawless and there's plenty of room for all my audio/video gear (except for my Dual turntable).


Roger

Uh-Oh, I thought I was going to be okay since I don't have the matching stand. I guess I'll call around and try to get the styrofoam from another delivery held for me. Guess I misread all the posts about the plastic bowing as I skimmed them since I don't have that stand.

My HL-R5067W was delivered on Sunday. Should I be concerned about bowing?

Thanks in advance!
I don't think that it is as much of a problem as it is with the Ameriwood stand, but I remember reading a few posts about the edges of the black bezel around the screen drooping. It may be mostly on the larger sizes (like the 61 inch) that have a larger unsupported area. I just figured I'd rather be safe than sorry.

I was mistaken it does set it based on the the incoming signal. So if I set 480i/p to be 4:3 all the signals come in 4:3.

Although the only down fall is that when I play DVD's through the 360 it stays as a 480 even it if's a widscreen movie so I have to change it, but not a big deal.

One thing I notice on my tv, I have the matching stand and it is set properly on the stand, but the little black feet under the tv in the middle are actually supported by the front of the stand, just barely but the center of the feet are on the stand. Not sure if this was a change or not in the stand.

Thanks again.



I read your original question, which was "how can I have the TV recognize the signal and display it that way?". There seems to be some confusion about the difference between aspect ratio and resolution. Let me clarify. An aspect ratio is either 4:3 with black bars or 16:9 widescreen and has almost nothing to do with resolution, in which the formats are 480i/p, 720P, and 1080i. First of all your cable box being set to pass through the "resolution format" is the correct way to have it set. That way only the set does the scaling. Next is to set your set on 16:9 and leave it there. Here's what will happen. If a standard def 480i signal is detected the set will display it in 4:3 and give you options to P Size it if you want. (first button under the remote slide door) If a digital network broadcast is detected you will loose the P Size options of Panorama and the two Zooms. The digital broadcast will be an aspect ratio of 4:3 most of the time until a primetime HD show comes on. The set will detect a true HD broadcast with a 16:9 aspect ratio and display it.

Remember, all signals coming into your set are converted to 720P for display no mater what the input resolution format or aspect ratio is. If you leave the set on 16:9 it will automatically detect what to display. That's the right setting for DVD as well. Only a standard def 480i broadcast can be zoomed or stretched, which I don't really like to do. It's too un-natural a look for me. I got used to the black bars. Hope this helps.

Best regards!

My question to forum members (and yes I have searched but I am going to ask anyway) is there a way around this short of plugging in every device directly into the reciever. I only have two optical ins on my receiver so that is going be a pain in you know where to do as I am going to have more optical ins than my receiver supports, STB, DVD player, XBox and/or XBox360, PS2, and HD-DVD player (when they come out).

If this is not possible, can anyone suggest a television in Samsung or another manufacturer's line that supports Dolby Digital 5.1 passthrough? I love the television but find this to be extremely frustrating.

Jeremy

You may not want to here this, but the only reason to have any audio connection from the set is if you intend to use the internal tuners. Then, the best audio connection is the optical out for the Dolby capability. It's never a good idea to use the set as some sort of audio combiner. Audio should route straight to a surround sound receiver, period. Mine has 3 optical inputs and 2 digital coax inputs, which are just as good in my opinion. If you only have 2 Dolby capable connections you may need an external digital audio selector box. Some have remote control so you can program the code into your universal remote. It may be time to upgrade to a receiver that has more inputs and a digital delay too.

I'm not a fan of HDMI for audio or even video. Still lots of bugs, quirks, flashing lines, color or contrast issues, and numerous equipment mismatches. It's not yet a better technology just because it's digital. Not by a long shot!

Hello everyone. I've read up on this line of Samsung DLPs, and think that overall it sounds like an excellent TV. But the Sony 34" XBR960 is also a nice television. Which one of these two would you pick? I know they are both different sizes and technologies, but that's one of the problems I'm having in deciding which one to get.

Thanks.


Uhhhh.....the Samsung, of course!

Why, you ask? Fewer display failures and the longevity of the superior Phillips UHP Mercury lamp.

Oh.....the Samsung does look better and the DMD chip has R & D that predicts it's life expectancy beyond 30 years. A new lamp restores the display to like-new condition.

Well.....those are the reasons I chose it anyway.

I have been trying to talk to a human being at Samsung regarding screen smudges on my HL-R6167W ,bought June 05. I had Sears come out to look at it, & they want to replace my light engine. Has anyone had a light engine replaced for screen smudges? I think this tech is clueless. Any input appreciated.

Thanks

I have been trying to talk to a human being at Samsung regarding screen smudges on my HL-R6167W ,bought June 05. I had Sears come out to look at it, & they want to replace my light engine. Has anyone had a light engine replaced for screen smudges? I think this tech is clueless. Any input appreciated.

Thanks

Well as far as I have been able to find out the smudges are from a defective screen not a bad light engine or some other problem.

Do the smudges go away after a while... when the set warms up? If so then it is the screen not the light engine.... If the smudges do not go away then maybe you have a bad light engine or some other problem.....

Hope this helps....

Don

I recently purchased a HL-R5067W (about a month ago). I have been having issues with it locking up. I have the following connected:

XBOX 360 connected via component, with audio running to a receiver.
Scientific Atlanta DVR8300HD connected via HDMI
PC connected via VGA
Gamecube connected via composite

The optical out on the TV is running back to the receiver (for the audio coming in over HDMI).

I have had this problem for most of the time I've had it (I think I noticed it about a week and a half or two weeks after I purchased the set). I have had the problem when watching TV via the DVR8300HD and while playing the XBOX 360. The 360 was a recent purchase and this problem was occuring prior to that.

I _think_ it seems to happen more when I have multiple inputs actually up and running/powered on (DVR and PC, DVR and 360). It happens the most when I'm playing the 360 but it has happened numerous times prior to picking up the 360.

The TV seems to "freeze", the image is still there, and I know the 360 is still going because I can hear the audio. When I am watching TV the audio and video freeze since they're both going through the TV. It will sit there like that for maybe half a minute to a minute, then reset itself.

Any suggestions at all? I have the extended warranty and it's new, so I have no problems calling someone out, but I'd like to know if anyone has encountered this before.

Thanks for your time!

You shouldn't be running the audio back from the tv.

The 8300hd has an optical out on the back. To pass the audio to your receiver from the 8300hd, eliminating the audio through HDMI, Press "settings" twice on the 8300hd remote and scroll down until you find the digital audio setting. Choose "optical" or however it's named. After, of course, you have run the optical cable from the box to the receiver.

Any help with my query about spacers between the floating screen and the speakers? I would really like a solution to this. Thanks!

Don, Thanks for your reply. The smudges do go away after the set warms up. I also have some black flecks I think are also embedded in the screen. I'll just have to keep trying and get through to someone at Samsung.

Thanks

Any help with my query about spacers between the floating screen and the speakers? I would really like a solution to this. Thanks!


What is the purpose or need for spacers? My screen floats fine.

Don, Thanks for your reply. The smudges do go away after the set warms up. I also have some black flecks I think are also embedded in the screen. I'll just have to keep trying and get through to someone at Samsung.

Thanks


I saw you were having trouble getting through to Samsung.
Are you Calling 1-800 SAMSUNG prompts 2, 1, 3, 1?
I've never had a problem.

If you don't like the screen for any reason they will replace it.

What is the purpose or need for spacers? My screen floats fine.

I'm a bit obsessive compulsive, and after reading about the bowing of the floating screen, found that if I run my knuckle in the gap, that the outermost edges get a bit "snug". The bowing isn't visible to my wife or friends but I can see it, so I called Ameriwood and got the little black blocks that fit in the gap. I am hoping to find a more aesthetically pleasing set of spacers (see dilettante's picture). If someone has the silver foam inserts from his picture, or some other solution (more Ameriwood blocks)...I would gladly take them off of your hand. It's a problem that I pretty much made in my mind I'm sure (again, it's such a slight bow...not to the extent of an earlier poster in this thread where the screen was almost touching the speakers). Hope this clarifies.

Thanks, that's a relief. I'm still going to look into getting the foam spacers back from another delivery.

I don't think that it is as much of a problem as it is with the Ameriwood stand, but I remember reading a few posts about the edges of the black bezel around the screen drooping. It may be mostly on the larger sizes (like the 61 inch) that have a larger unsupported area. I just figured I'd rather be safe than sorry.

hi-rez, I always got through to be on hold, but never waited past 15-20 minutes to talk to someone. I work 70 hrs. a week so my time to call during working hours is very hard to acomplish. I did get through today and only had to wait for 5 min. They wasted no time to schedule an appointment with the local authorized repair service to contact me and get this fixed. Impressive service so far.

Thanks

Hi All,

Well today I pulled the trigger and placed an order for a HLR6167W. Ordered from Onecall due to what I thought was a phenomenal price, especially compared to the B&M stores near me.

I got a call from OneCall about 30 minutes after I placed the order, sounds like they will be able to have the TV delivered this wednesday (pretty impressive I think.)

I was curious what type of TV stands some of you might recommend. My wife and I don't like the looks of the Samsung branded stand with the floating shelves. Would like to find something wooden, either an oak or pine coloring - and preferable something with some glass doors on the front to keep the dust off of the electronics equipment.

edit: One stand we have found in our searching is the Bush Napa Collection Console Video Base (VS05250-03) (I'd post a link to the Bush site, but I guess I can't post links until I hit 5 posts...)

My concern is that it might be too high for the TV (it is listed as 20" tall)

Any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated, thanks!

- Al

I just recently got he X-BOX 360 Premium console and have it hooked up w/ the component cables that came in the box. Although I do think the picture is outsatnding I was wondering if the picture would be even better through the VGA input on my TV (5067W), also does the VGA support optical DD 5.1? I'm a little reluctant to fork over any more money considering that it cost me around $600 for the console and the games, but if the picture will be that much better I'm all for it. Also does the picture fill the whole screen through the VGA? Please help me out soon because my wife is out of town until tommorrow night so my window to buy anything else for my 360 is very limited. Thank You in advance.

I just recently got he X-BOX 360 Premium console and have it hooked up w/ the component cables that came in the box. Although I do think the picture is outsatnding I was wondering if the picture would be even better through the VGA input on my TV (5067W), also does the VGA support optical DD 5.1? I'm a little reluctant to fork over any more money considering that it cost me around $600 for the console and the games, but if the picture will be that much better I'm all for it. Also does the picture fill the whole screen through the VGA? Please help me out soon because my wife is out of town until tommorrow night so my window to buy anything else for my 360 is very limited. Thank You in advance.

Having tried both cables for a while now, I would suggest you stick with your component. I purchased the VGA cable when I received my system since both my component inputs were occupied and I didn't want to run them through a switch box. Since then I found a 2-1 HDMI switch for my upconverting DVD and cable box, so I decided to try the component cables with a free input.

The VGA cable delivers a sharper picture, but the colors are washed out. It will also fill your screen as well. I have had my set ISF calibrated with every input to 720p (including VGA). The only thing the calibrator could not do was the color decoder, but he will be following up with that.

With the component cables, and a decent contrast/brightness calibration using "Project Gotham Racing 3", I find the picture to be near perfect. Colors are accurate and deep (using the filters my blue and red are perfect, with only green causing problems). I also found that with VGA there is a "gray fog" effect that also dulls the picture.

The VGA cable is a good option if you are in the position I was, and your inputs are full (I have yet to find a good component switch box though the new Pelican one for $100 is supposed to have very minimal if not zero signal loss). Otherwise stick to component and save your money. The colors are better, and the sharpness loss isn't that much of a problem. I've also read that DVD playback over VGA is not very good, but I never tried it.

Hope this helps in your decision.

Hi All,
I was curious what type of TV stands some of you might recommend. My wife and I don't like the looks of the Samsung branded stand with the floating shelves. Would like to find something wooden, either an oak or pine coloring - and preferable something with some glass doors on the front to keep the dust off of the electronics equipment.

edit: One stand we have found in our searching is the Bush Napa Collection Console Video Base (VS05250-03) (I'd post a link to the Bush site, but I guess I can't post links until I hit 5 posts...)

My concern is that it might be too high for the TV (it is listed as 20" tall)

Any suggestions or thoughts would be appreciated, thanks!

- Al

Al,

Take a look at Stands and Mounts . com to see several good choices. I ended up purchasing the Tech Craft Benini Collection HK52B as seen here:
http:// tiny url .com/c9k99
They have a 60" version as well. The black/silver/glass design really complements the Samsung's appearance. I ordered on Wednesday AM and had it delivered by Friday afternoon. All prices include shipping.

20" is about the max height you'll want in order to keep the center of your screen close to eye-level when seated. 18" or lower might be even better so you don't have to look up to view the screen. And I'd suggest you consider not keeping your components behind doors to prevent heat & humidity build-up. My Sony receiver used to generate a lot of heat when in a closed cabinet even with the doors open. I like the open cabinet design much better for the ventilation.


Roger

I have the HLR 5667 DLP and am enjoying it a great deal. I've subscribed to this thread for a while now - reading on and off - lots of interesting things for a newbie.

I've seen recommendations for the Samsung HD950 DVD player and would like to get opinions on pros and cons and alternatives.

I'm stritchly OTA, so no competition from cable for the HDMI slot. No game boxes either.

If I go with the 950, would you recommend the HDMI into the set and then run digital optical to the receiver for the audio?

I would appreciate opinions from anyone who has tried this (or other DVD players).

Thank you, in advance.

PS Other equipment includes: Panny XR55 receiver and a panny dvd recorder/HDD(DMR-EH50S). I've read that one shouldn't use their recording DVD as their main player. Comments on this are also welcome. Will it be much of an upgrade?

BJG2005: I've tried the Samsung 841 and 941 upconverting to 720P via component and I was getting better picture quality then when i used my progressive scan phillips and let the TV upconvert to it's native 720p. Usually the upscaler used on an upconverting dvd player is better then the one provided by the tv so it's a good way to go. If your going to use HDMI however, you might want to check out the dvd player threads and check out some of the comments there because you can probably do better then the 950 via hdmi. Cost however may become a factor so the 950 is probably just fine. I am thinking of trying a 950 now because it can upconvert via component (HDMI used by sat box) and my refurb 941 seems to be acting up a bit.

I'm a bit obsessive compulsive, and after reading about the bowing of the floating screen, found that if I run my knuckle in the gap, that the outermost edges get a bit "snug". The bowing isn't visible to my wife or friends but I can see it, so I called Ameriwood and got the little black blocks that fit in the gap. I am hoping to find a more aesthetically pleasing set of spacers (see dilettante's picture). If someone has the silver foam inserts from his picture, or some other solution (more Ameriwood blocks)...I would gladly take them off of your hand. It's a problem that I pretty much made in my mind I'm sure (again, it's such a slight bow...not to the extent of an earlier poster in this thread where the screen was almost touching the speakers). Hope this clarifies.

You must have missed dilettante's post, the silver spacers where actually the white foam spacers that ships with the TV. The pic just made it looks silver. I suppose you could take any piece of foam and cut it out so it will fit and get a silver marker and color them or something.

I think someone posted not too long ago that Ameriwood was now sending out a new top for that samsung stand which had a bit more surface area on the top of the stand for the TV to be supported on which alleviates the issue.

I have the HLR 5667 DLP and am enjoying it a great deal. I've subscribed to this thread for a while now - reading on and off - lots of interesting things for a newbie.

I've seen recommendations for the Samsung HD950 DVD player and would like to get opinions on pros and cons and alternatives.

I'm stritchly OTA, so no competition from cable for the HDMI slot. No game boxes either.

If I go with the 950, would you recommend the HDMI into the set and then run digital optical to the receiver for the audio?

I would appreciate opinions from anyone who has tried this (or other DVD players).

Thank you, in advance.

PS Other equipment includes: Panny XR55 receiver and a panny dvd recorder/HDD(DMR-EH50S). I've read that one shouldn't use their recording DVD as their main player. Comments on this are also welcome. Will it be much of an upgrade?


I'm using the 950 via HDMI with my 5067 and am very satisfied with the PQ. It's little more film-like (smoother, less defined) than OTA HD, but pleasing to watch. I didn't see any difference between the 720 or 1080i settings. I haven't played with using the component output yet - may give that a try, though. The audio is routed to the receiver using digital coax.


Roger

You must have missed dilettante's post, the silver spacers where actually the white foam spacers that ships with the TV. The pic just made it looks silver. I suppose you could take any piece of foam and cut it out so it will fit and get a silver marker and color them or something.

I think someone posted not too long ago that Ameriwood was now sending out a new top for that samsung stand which had a bit more surface area on the top of the stand for the TV to be supported on which alleviates the issue.

I read his post, I just assumed they were silver. I also don't have the Ameriwood stand, but did call when they were sending out the black wooden spacers. I'm just looking for a back-up solution for when I move, in case they get lost in translation. Any help?

I am thinking of purchasing the 66w model, but want some help on testing something.

I am afraid that I am going to see the rainbow effect and wonder if there is a way to test this at the store. For people who see it do they just see it when moving there eye across the screen?

I am thinking of purchasing the 66w model, but want some help on testing something.

I am afraid that I am going to see the rainbow effect and wonder if there is a way to test this at the store. For people who see it do they just see it when moving there eye across the screen?

To test for this - I would make them turn off the TV's next to the one you want to check, turn to a channel with dark scenes and only a few bright points of stationary light. Then rapidly move your eyes from one side of the screen to the other. The light points will get a blue/red/green silhouette if you are seeing the 'rainbows'. You will only see them while darting your eyes - not if the light is moving during the broadcast...

Even if you do see them - they go away as you become accustomed to watching a large screen versus a small one. I used to see the rainbows alot at first and I was regretting getting the set, but after a month or so, I no longer see them (probably because I don't TRY to see them). I don't notice them, and they don't distract me anymore.

I think the reason for this is simple - if you're switching from SD to HD, you are amazed at the details and want to look all over the screen, in the background, etc.. to see what you were missing. On top of that, if you're jumping from a 32" tv to a 56" like me - then you also want to just look around more at first and not pay so much attention to the frame's main subject.

As you watch more and more, you learn to take in the entire scene without physically scanning the screen with your eyes like a book.

Good luck!

I read your original question, which was "how can I have the TV recognize the signal and display it that way?". There seems to be some confusion about the difference between aspect ratio and resolution. Let me clarify. An aspect ratio is either 4:3 with black bars or 16:9 widescreen and has almost nothing to do with resolution, in which the formats are 480i/p, 720P, and 1080i. First of all your cable box being set to pass through the "resolution format" is the correct way to have it set. That way only the set does the scaling. Next is to set your set on 16:9 and leave it there. Here's what will happen. If a standard def 480i signal is detected the set will display it in 4:3 and give you options to P Size it if you want. (first button under the remote slide door) If a digital network broadcast is detected you will loose the P Size options of Panorama and the two Zooms. The digital broadcast will be an aspect ratio of 4:3 most of the time until a primetime HD show comes on. The set will detect a true HD broadcast with a 16:9 aspect ratio and display it.

Remember, all signals coming into your set are converted to 720P for display no mater what the input resolution format or aspect ratio is. If you leave the set on 16:9 it will automatically detect what to display. That's the right setting for DVD as well. Only a standard def 480i broadcast can be zoomed or stretched, which I don't really like to do. It's too un-natural a look for me. I got used to the black bars. Hope this helps.

Best regards!

Althought my post did not seem like it I do know the difference between resolution and aspect ratio, I do :). However if you leave the ratio at 16:9 and watch a non hd broadcast on a non hd channel. It displays on 16:9 so the picture is stretched. I was hoping that the tv would also recognize that a 480i 4:3 signal would display in 4:3 automatically. Which it does not. Yes only 16:9 and 4:3 are available via the tv on one of these broadcast, however the cable remote also allows a stretch to 1080i. My HD channels are set default to 16:9 and it does them correctly because even if it is a 4:3 ratio the channel sends a signal with the bars already on it, ever notice fox has their logo in the black bar for a 4:3 ratio show.

I was hoping that when I switched to say TBS, it would know non HD, 480i which it does, however it doesn't set it to 4:3 ratio automatically. However I can set it to that pictue size using the remote and now the tv will remember that for 480 i show 4:3 and the others show 16:9. But it doesn't do it by default, now I just need to switch it on a dvd. I guess the problem is technically every thing coming from the box is considered a digital signal.

Anyway I have/had it figured out but thanks for your help.

One question however, I have comcast without DVR, I set my cable box to recognize all signals, 480i, 480p, 480i wide, 480p wide, 720p, 1080i. This allows the pass through to work, has anyone just set the 720p and 1080i and had their 480 signals convert. I know by default the cable box was set to just 480p and 1080i so any program was being converted by the box to 1080i.

Sorry for the long post

I'm having some picture geometry issues that I'd like other people to chime in on.

I have an HLR 5067.

I had asked previously about the apparent pin-cushion effect seen on the side black bars when viewing 4:3 material. This was explained to me to be a result of the way the image is projected on the screen. This seems reasonable, and really doesn't bother me as I didn't buy this TV to watch 4:3 material. For the sake of completeness, the middle of the black bars is about 5/16" further inward than the top or bottom.

But I've also noticed geometry errors when watching a widescreen movie. The horizontal black bars on the top and bottom of the picture are also off (are these back bars letterboxing? if not, what is the correct term?). The middle of the top black bar is about 7/16" lower than the edges. This seems a little excessive. It's not that distracting, but noticeable if you're not engrossed in the film.

Anyone else have these problems of this magnatude? Is there anything that can be done about it?

thanks,

Chris

Althought my post did not seem like it I do know the difference between resolution and aspect ratio, I do :). However if you leave the ratio at 16:9 and watch a non hd broadcast on a non hd channel. It displays on 16:9 so the picture is stretched. I was hoping that the tv would also recognize that a 480i 4:3 signal would display in 4:3 automatically. Which it does not. Yes only 16:9 and 4:3 are available via the tv on one of these broadcast, however the cable remote also allows a stretch to 1080i. My HD channels are set default to 16:9 and it does them correctly because even if it is a 4:3 ratio the channel sends a signal with the bars already on it, ever notice fox has their logo in the black bar for a 4:3 ratio show.

I was hoping that when I switched to say TBS, it would know non HD, 480i which it does, however it doesn't set it to 4:3 ratio automatically. However I can set it to that pictue size using the remote and now the tv will remember that for 480 i show 4:3 and the others show 16:9. But it doesn't do it by default, now I just need to switch it on a dvd. I guess the problem is technically every thing coming from the box is considered a digital signal.

Anyway I have/had it figured out but thanks for your help.

One question however, I have comcast without DVR, I set my cable box to recognize all signals, 480i, 480p, 480i wide, 480p wide, 720p, 1080i. This allows the pass through to work, has anyone just set the 720p and 1080i and had their 480 signals convert. I know by default the cable box was set to just 480p and 1080i so any program was being converted by the box to 1080i.

Sorry for the long post

I have a cablebox (Scientific America 8300) that lets you choose how to display 4:3 material - sidebar, stretched, zoomed. Perhaps your cable box has this option somewhere? Other than that, the tv has no ability to do what you're asking as far as I know, but when I want to switch, I just use the top left hand button on the hidden controls on the remote (bottom slide section). It's very quick and easy to get to.

Can anyone who has the HLR4266W or other HLR and uses an upconverting DVD player share which player they have or which is supposed to be the best for this TV (player under $200 or so please)? I am thinking of buying one because the only player I have that has component out is my Panasonic DVD recorder. I hear a lot about macroblocking issues with some TVs. Is this TV affected by macroblocking?

Althought my post did not seem like it I do know the difference between resolution and aspect ratio, I do :). However if you leave the ratio at 16:9 and watch a non hd broadcast on a non hd channel. It displays on 16:9 so the picture is stretched. I was hoping that the tv would also recognize that a 480i 4:3 signal would display in 4:3 automatically. Which it does not. Yes only 16:9 and 4:3 are available via the tv on one of these broadcast, however the cable remote also allows a stretch to 1080i. My HD channels are set default to 16:9 and it does them correctly because even if it is a 4:3 ratio the channel sends a signal with the bars already on it, ever notice fox has their logo in the black bar for a 4:3 ratio show.

I was hoping that when I switched to say TBS, it would know non HD, 480i which it does, however it doesn't set it to 4:3 ratio automatically. However I can set it to that pictue size using the remote and now the tv will remember that for 480 i show 4:3 and the others show 16:9. But it doesn't do it by default, now I just need to switch it on a dvd. I guess the problem is technically every thing coming from the box is considered a digital signal.

Anyway I have/had it figured out but thanks for your help.

One question however, I have comcast without DVR, I set my cable box to recognize all signals, 480i, 480p, 480i wide, 480p wide, 720p, 1080i. This allows the pass through to work, has anyone just set the 720p and 1080i and had their 480 signals convert. I know by default the cable box was set to just 480p and 1080i so any program was being converted by the box to 1080i.

Sorry for the long post

I didn't think about your cable box vs. my sat box before making my comment about auto aspect ratios. My sincere apologies. My sat box has sizing options too. One of the options is Aspect Ratio, which I have set to 16:9. Another setting is Screen Format, which gives me a choice of Zoom, Pillar Box, and Full. Mine is on Pillar Box. This means that if a broadcast is not 16:9 it will default to a 4:3 Pillar Box. That's why I can leave my set on 16:9 and not stretch a 4:3 broadcast. If I change the Screen Format to "Full" I get your situation. Your cable box may or may not have the same format options.

When you say things like "allows a stretch to 1080i" it appears confusing since "stretch" pertains to aspect ratio and "1080i" pertains to resolution. I realize you meant to say "allows a stretch to 16:9".

As to your question, I would look through all the available cable box menu options and see if there is a "Pillar Box" setting. That will solve your sizing problem. What you propose will only cause the resolution to be scaled by the cable box instead of letting your set do the scaling to 720P.

I'm having some picture geometry issues that I'd like other people to chime in on.

I have an HLR 5067.

I had asked previously about the apparent pin-cushion effect seen on the side black bars when viewing 4:3 material. This was explained to me to be a result of the way the image is projected on the screen. This seems reasonable, and really doesn't bother me as I didn't buy this TV to watch 4:3 material. For the sake of completeness, the middle of the black bars is about 5/16" further inward than the top or bottom.

But I've also noticed geometry errors when watching a widescreen movie. The horizontal black bars on the top and bottom of the picture are also off (are these back bars letterboxing? if not, what is the correct term?). The middle of the top black bar is about 7/16" lower than the edges. This seems a little excessive. It's not that distracting, but noticeable if you're not engrossed in the film.

Anyone else have these problems of this magnatude? Is there anything that can be done about it?

thanks,

Chris


It has everything to do with the way the screen fits to the set housing. You can push on the screen and change the black bar geometry. If it's that noticeable you should have the screen either adjusted or replaced. I'm not sure they will act on a quarter inch, but I would call Samsung and schedule a tech to take a look. Mine bows a little, but not that much.

Black bars on top and bottom of a movie indicates that the movie was shot in a 2:35.1 aspect ratio. Letter box is worse. It means that a 2:35.1 movie is shown in 4:3 format putting black bars all the way around it. Oh boy!

I have a question about an earlier post regarding the height of the stand. My stand is 24" from bottom to top, is that too high? It doesn't seem that much higher than the Ameriwood stand ( which I returned after 3 days because of the bowing and the fact that it was junk ). If it is higher than ideal is it affecting the PQ in any way? All opinions would be much appreciated.

On a side note, does anyone have any idea why I can't change my color temp on Component 1 or 2? I can change it on HDMI and ANT but not the others and I don't think that's normal.

I have a question about an earlier post regarding the height of the stand. My stand is 24" from bottom to top, is that too high? It doesn't seem that much higher than the Ameriwood stand ( which I returned after 3 days because of the bowing and the fact that it was junk ). If it is higher than ideal is it affecting the PQ in any way? All opinions would be much appreciated.

On a side note, does anyone have any idea why I can't change my color temp on Component 1 or 2? I can change it on HDMI and ANT but not the others and I don't think that's normal.

you should be able to change color temp on any of the inputs and settings except MOVIE mode - which it is disabled. Set it to standard or custom and try changing it from there.

Is there anywhere on this thread or on this board where people have posted there display settings?

I didn't think about your cable box vs. my sat box before making my comment about auto aspect ratios. My sincere apologies. My sat box has sizing options too. One of the options is Aspect Ratio, which I have set to 16:9. Another setting is Screen Format, which gives me a choice of Zoom, Pillar Box, and Full. Mine is on Pillar Box. This means that if a broadcast is not 16:9 it will default to a 4:3 Pillar Box. That's why I can leave my set on 16:9 and not stretch a 4:3 broadcast. If I change the Screen Format to "Full" I get your situation. Your cable box may or may not have the same format options.

When you say things like "allows a stretch to 1080i" it appears confusing since "stretch" pertains to aspect ratio and "1080i" pertains to resolution. I realize you meant to say "allows a stretch to 16:9".

As to your question, I would look through all the available cable box menu options and see if there is a "Pillar Box" setting. That will solve your sizing problem. What you propose will only cause the resolution to be scaled by the cable box instead of letting your set do the scaling to 720P.

Sorry the way the cable box remote is setup up, if i hit the zoom button it does change it to 16:9 but also then converts the signal to 1080i being sent from the box. The resolution displays as you cycle through the cable box options.

I've looked at all my options and pass through is the only option that allows. Not a big deal really, all my HD channels I have set to 16:9 and all the non hd channels set to 4:3, the only thing I have to do is when playing a dvd is change it to 16:9, not a big deal.

Being new to HD and all when you say the picture is scaled to 720P, why does the signal from the box say 480i? Is the signal from the box 480i and the TV is "converting" to 720 for the display? I don't let the box convert I am letting the TV convert? So in theory if I take 2 TV's side by side, my HDTV and a regular old 32 in TV and display 2 non hd channels, the HDTV should "look better" because of the 720 display?

Also one thing I noticed last night, owned it for a week now still can't stop messing, anyway. If you take the movie preset and then your custom preset and set everything identical, the picture/colors is still a little different, I'm guessing that has to do with the internal calibration, it's not a huge difference but it is noticeable, it's almost like you need to set the custom color temp on warm2 to match movie on warm1.

Thanks to this site, I emailed Ameriwood and am receiving a new top for my TV stand, sent out yesterday.

Thanks for the info guys. I love this TV!!!

Being new to HD and all when you say the picture is scaled to 720P, why does the signal from the box say 480i? Is the signal from the box 480i and the TV is "converting" to 720 for the display? I don't let the box convert I am letting the TV convert? So in theory if I take 2 TV's side by side, my HDTV and a regular old 32 in TV and display 2 non hd channels, the HDTV should "look better" because of the 720 display?

Also one thing I noticed last night, owned it for a week now still can't stop messing, anyway. If you take the movie preset and then your custom preset and set everything identical, the picture/colors is still a little different, I'm guessing that has to do with the internal calibration, it's not a huge difference but it is noticeable, it's almost like you need to set the custom color temp on warm2 to match movie on warm1.

Thanks to this site, I emailed Ameriwood and am receiving a new top for my TV stand, sent out yesterday.

Thanks for the info guys. I love this TV!!!

That is correct that your set converts any signal to 720P for the display.

That is incorrect that in theory a 720P tv makes standard def 480i look better. It will make it look bigger, not better. That usually results in standard def looking worse on an HDTV. Scaling does not improve something recorded in 480i/p.

That's an accurate observation about the differences in picture modes. The grey scales and other settings are set up differently in the service menu.

Is there anywhere on this thread or on this board where people have posted there display settings?


Answered on page 60 post 1779.

I'm looking for a worthy replacement to my old 32 inch Panasonic CRT TV and I have narrowed the choice to the Samsung SAMSUNG HL-R5667W DLP TV. Here is the equipment that I have that I would like to hook to it:

Pioneer AV Receiver VSX-D711
JVC VHS
Direct TV Satellite Recevier (I'm planning to upgrade iit to an HD receiver).
Toshiba DVD Player
XBOX (First Generation).

The only thing that has me concerned is the reported LAG when playing xbox games. I checked on the Samsung website that there is a "game" video mode that helps on the lag. The bad thign about it is that it only supports 480p. does anybody know if, if I enable all modes (480p, 480i, 720p and 1080i) on the xbox, and I hook it directly to the TV (not through the AV recevier) will the lag issue go away?

Also, about the recevier, I have questions regarding the hook-up:

Should I connect both Audio and video to the recevier first and then send the video to the TV?
Should I connect the video directly to the tV and keep the audio sources on the receviver?
Should I connect al relevant AV sources (XBOX, DVD, VHS, Satellite Receiver) to the TV and just send the audio signals from the TV to the AV receiver?


One last question... about the bulb warranties, should I get one? According to the specs the bulbs should last for 8000 hours (thats abotu 2.7 years based on 8 hours of TV a day)?

Thanks in advance for your help.

I have positioned my 5667 on my stand behind the 2 front legs. It looks like it is suppose to be that way & also the whole TV is supported.

I'm looking for a worthy replacement to my old 32 inch Panasonic CRT TV and I have narrowed the choice to the Samsung SAMSUNG HL-R5667W DLP TV. Here is the equipment that I have that I would like to hook to it:

Pioneer AV Receiver VSX-D711
JVC VHS
Direct TV Satellite Recevier (I'm planning to upgrade iit to an HD receiver).
Toshiba DVD Player
XBOX (First Generation).

The only thing that has me concerned is the reported LAG when playing xbox games. I checked on the Samsung website that there is a "game" video mode that helps on the lag. The bad thign about it is that it only supports 480p. does anybody know if, if I enable all modes (480p, 480i, 720p and 1080i) on the xbox, and I hook it directly to the TV (not through the AV recevier) will the lag issue go away?

Also, about the recevier, I have questions regarding the hook-up:

Should I connect both Audio and video to the recevier first and then send the video to the TV?
Should I connect the video directly to the tV and keep the audio sources on the receviver?
Should I connect al relevant AV sources (XBOX, DVD, VHS, Satellite Receiver) to the TV and just send the audio signals from the TV to the AV receiver?


One last question... about the bulb warranties, should I get one? According to the specs the bulbs should last for 8000 hours (thats abotu 2.7 years based on 8 hours of TV a day)?

Thanks in advance for your help.
Being new to HD I'll try to answer some of your questions.

I personally have my cable box and xbox360 go to my recevier via component cables and then the receiver to the TV. Those are my only inputs to the TV so I obviously don't have as much as you. The audio I have directly to the Recevier.

I have not noticed any Lag with the Audio except for last night. Discovery HD was way off, almost like a full second, it was bad. That is the only time that I have noticed any lag. I cannot speak for the regular xbox.

Planning on getting a 4667 very soon. We've currently got another HD set (in a different room) with a HD cable box (from Comcast).

Noticed that the 4667 has a cablecard slot. What would I be missing or what would be the downside of using the cablecard?

Anyone using the sammy with Comcast CableCARD? Any difference in the PQ any notable features missing?

The major difference would be Video on demand. With a cable card, you would not be able to see any On Demand content. This would include pay-per view movies.

Also, you might be interested in the Comcast DVR. It records in HD.

Planning on getting a 4667 very soon. We've currently got another HD set (in a different room) with a HD cable box (from Comcast).

Noticed that the 4667 has a cablecard slot. What would I be missing or what would be the downside of using the cablecard?

Anyone using the sammy with Comcast CableCARD? Any difference in the PQ any notable features missing?
I initially got the cablecard for my HLR5067w, and was very happy with the picture quality for HD broadcasts.

Unfortunately, I still had to return it and switch to a box for a variety of reasons :

The cablecard seemed to reset every other day, and while it could have been an incorrect setting on the television, I suspect that the reason was more related to Comcast. It just took too long to reset the card each time this happened.

You've also heard that Video On Demand and the On-Screen Guide are not available with the card. I found that I missed the onscreen guide, especially given the clunky design of the TVGuide menu that comes with the tv.

Once I got the box, I noticed that non-HD broadcasts look noticeably better than with the cablecard. However, I've also noticed that there is a *very* slight decrease in HD picture quality. If I switch back and forth between Cable and OTA, I notice that OTA looks slightly sharper. Right now, I'm using component cables for the box- I'm supposed to have an HDMI cable delivered by the end of the week, though, so if picture quality increases I'll report back.

Hope that this helps - in the end, I'm glad I made the decision to switch back to the box.

Being new to HD I'll try to answer some of your questions.

I personally have my cable box and xbox360 go to my recevier via component cables and then the receiver to the TV. Those are my only inputs to the TV so I obviously don't have as much as you. The audio I have directly to the Recevier.

I have not noticed any Lag with the Audio except for last night. Discovery HD was way off, almost like a full second, it was bad. That is the only time that I have noticed any lag. I cannot speak for the regular xbox.


Thanks for your answer eab. I'm also new to all this and I just want to make sure that I get the best "bang" for the buck here. Any othe recommendations? are you overall happy with your TV? can I ask where you got it? I'm thinking of getting it from an online retailer...

I was searching this thread trying to find out how much replacement bulbs cost for the 66w model.

I was directed to the samsung replacement parts site and entered the model and saw the following:

LAMP-BALLAST and
LAMP ASSY

Do you need both of these things?

I was searching this thread trying to find out how much replacement bulbs cost for the 66w model.

I was directed to the samsung replacement parts site and entered the model and saw the following:

LAMP-BALLAST and
LAMP ASSY

Do you need both of these things?
You will only need the lamp. The ballast can fail, but is not part of a standard lamp replacement.

I had an Hlp4663 before and was just upgraded by Samsung to the hlr5067w. But on this model I can't turn Dnle of and I would like to. How do I get to the service menu to turn it off? Honestly the hlp4663w looked better than this tv. I very dissapointed with the upgrade. Now the lip sync issue that this tv was supposed to fix is even worse.

Don, Thanks for your reply. The smudges do go away after the set warms up. I also have some black flecks I think are also embedded in the screen. I'll just have to keep trying and get through to someone at Samsung.

Thanks

Careful osu fan! I have a similar issue with smudges on the screen, especially when the ambient temperature is cooler. The smudges go away after 30-45 minutes of viewing tv. I was convinced that the problem was a defective screen (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6932342&&#post6932342) and so Samsung sent someone come out today to replace the screen. At first it seemed as if the replacement screen fixed the problem with the smudges, but then I noticed there were lots of black flecks and other dust particles between the screen layers!!! (Note the screen comes as two separate layers, that are assembled together by the service rep). The service rep claimed it was a problem with the replacement part or the shipping/handling, but I'm thinking it may have been installation error as it's way too easy for dust to get trapped between the screens when assembling the two layers together. So now they have to order another screen to replace the replacement!

BUT HERE'S THE REAL KICKER. I turned on the tv tonight, and the SMUDGES ARE STILL THERE!!! So apparently my smudges aren't due to a problem with the screen, but something else. Only now I definitely have a screen problem too because of the dust/debris between the two screen layers. ARGH! looks like i'll have to call samsung tomorrow and see what my options are. i'm not very hopeful though. :( things have only gotten worse.

That is incorrect that in theory a 720P tv makes standard def 480i look better. It will make it look bigger, not better. That usually results in standard def looking worse on an HDTV. Scaling does not improve something recorded in 480i/p.



All of this is so wrong. I reread it several times trying to see if I was misinterpreting what you were trying to say, but no you are just plain wrong.

If you are looking at the same size display, 720p upconverted will look better than 480i.

If you go from a smaller display to a larger display alot of people will say that something originally recorded in 480i/p will look worse on the bigger display whether it is left alone or scaled to HD resolution.

While scaling might not "improve" something recorded in 480i/p, i.e. add information that was never there, it most certainly can improve the viewing experience by providing a higher resolution that large displays thrive on. What the heck do you think scalers were created for in the first place!

I purchased a HL-P5063W last May. The picture was incredible...dare I say perfect. About two months ago, I started experiencing an issue with the screen developing bright green outlines around everthing moving that would eventually turn the entire screen green. I called Samsung and they came right out and replaced the DLP engine. After about a week, the same phenomenon started happening so they came back out and replaced the DLP engine yet again. Low and behold, had the same issue. They finally agreed to replce the set. Since the HL-P5063W was no longer in production, they gave me a HL-R5067W. I was connecting to my Comcast HD DVR using DVI with the old set and had to go out and buy a DVI to HDMI cable to connect to the new set. There is a HUGE difference in picture quality. The picture on the HL-R5067W is grainy and pixilated while the HL-P5063W was incredibly sharp. Does anyone have any settings suggestions that I could try to improve my picture quality? Is this a result of using an HDMI to DVI cable? I'm losing faith in Samsung very quickly at this point.

All of this is so wrong. I reread it several times trying to see if I was misinterpreting what you were trying to say, but no you are just plain wrong.

If you are looking at the same size display, 720p upconverted will look better than 480i.

If you go from a smaller display to a larger display alot of people will say that something originally recorded in 480i/p will look worse on the bigger display whether it is left alone or scaled to HD resolution.

While scaling might not "improve" something recorded in 480i/p, i.e. add information that was never there, it most certainly can improve the viewing experience by providing a higher resolution that large displays thrive on. What the heck do you think scalers were created for in the first place!



Sorry to disappoint you, Bill, but I'm not wrong.
Look at what you're saying. ("might not "improve" something recorded in 480i/p") vs ("providing a higher resolution") That's a contradiction in terms.

While content recorded in (720P or 1080i) is a true HD resolution a 720P display is not an HD resolution in and of itself. Linear scaling is bigger, but not better. If you want to spend the money on a 10 bit non-linear Realta chip or Faroudja chip scaler starting at around $2000 to $5500 you can get some major scaling improvement. If you have ever seen what a DVDO iScan VP30 can do to a 480i signal you would know what I mean. If you think Samsung has that quality of scaling capability you are just plain wrong. Their set's would cost double or more and the external scaler market would be out of business.

The biggest complaint by far, on any forum, about purchasing an HD RPTV is the worsening of standard def programming. Why? It's the linear enlargement. Most complaints come from cable customers with varying degrees of poor signal quality. Sat watchers complain about the exagerrated effects of mpeg2 video compression. My advice is to sit back from it and watch less of it.

I think it's great that you like your standard def. You must have a really clean SD source. That's very rare.

Jim

Hi all:

My 2 1/2 year old HLN-5065 is giving me problems and no one seems to be able to fix it.... the extended warranty company is trying to decide to replace it or continue to try and repair it....

So I have several questions.... If anyone can help....

1) My HLN-5065 is flashing and flickering on all inputs... even when on a blue screen (no signal)... has anyone had this problem? what was done to fix it...

2)If they do decide to replace it, it would have to be with a current model.. the closest match (being Canadian) would be the HL-R5064... I do not see much information on the 5064... the American model that best matches is the HL-R5067..Can anyone tell me what (if any) are the differences between the 5067 and the 5064?

3) I will be moving from a HD2 chip to HD3 wobulated (sp?)... any opinion on this move... better/worse/different?

4) Last but not least... to the current owners of a HL-R5067/5064.. are you happy with this set? Would you, given the chance, buy this set again....?

Really, really would appreciate any information and or comments on the above!

Thanks,

Don

The biggest complaint by far, on any forum, about purchasing an HD RPTV is the worsening of standard def programming. Why? It's the linear enlargement.


I had trouble swallowing this argument for a while, until I happend to see my TV with an SD channel displaying, from 20+ feet away. I was walking down the hallway and noticed the picture on the TV from the SD TiVO actually looked good for once... until I got up to normal viewing distance, and realized it was just that I was so far away when I first glanced at it.

20+ feet on my HLR 5067 with SD, is like 8 feet away on my 27" tube TV with SD.

Chris

Can anyone confirm that this will work for my HL-R5067W? It works for the 1080p sets but i really want to turn Dnle off if possible. Thanks.

WARNING, I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE CAUSED BY ENTERING THE SERVICE MENU! USE EXTREME CAUTION AND WRITE DOWN ANY SETTINGS BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES!

1. Enter the service menu by pressing "mute, 1, 8, 2, power" within a second of one another while the TV is turned off.
2. Once in the service menu, use the arrow keys to go to the "DNIe" page and right click.
3. Once in the DNIe page, turn each of the following parameters in the first column to the "OFF" position.

SNI_PROC_CEA
SNI_PROC_CEP
SNI_PROC_DEP
SNI_PROC_DCE
SNI_PROC_CCS
SNI_PROC_BWS
SNI_PROC_PCC
SNI_PROC_WTE
SNI_PROC_CTE

That's it! No more DNIe!

Thanks for your answer eab. I'm also new to all this and I just want to make sure that I get the best "bang" for the buck here. Any othe recommendations? are you overall happy with your TV? can I ask where you got it? I'm thinking of getting it from an online retailer...

I've had the TV for 2 weeks and I love it.

The only SD complaint I have is it's a little darker than the HD channels so I need to up the Brightness, newer stuff on SD looks pretty good.

I finally hooked up the PIP last night using coaxial to the TV- no digital, best part is now I can leave the speaker volume on the TV up and if I swap to straight coax the sound comes out of the TV since my box goes straight to the receiver.

My biggest complaint is the swap is done through the menu, how DUMB is that.

I purchased mine from Circuit City it was on sale for like 600 off or something. (not sure if I can say that)

I did change the inputs from the cable box and xbox360 to go straight to the TV last night as a test, and it is better, not a ton, but notcieable to me.

Now if I could just figure out how to mount my Bose VCS-10 center under the TV, I tried an omnimount stand that attaches to the top of the TV and thought it looked ridiculous.

ive been going back and forth on the 5078w with the pedestal. Does anyone have any problems with the pedestal itself? After hearing the problems with the stands for the 5067 im leaning towards the 78. Also is the pedestal adjustable? can i alter the height if i want?

Not much talk about this model. Is it because it looks like it belongs in Star Trek? I have a limited budget so getting a stand included is a plus. Also can you remove the TV from the pedastal for transportation or is the thing permantley attached?

I picked up my cable box today, an SA-8300HD, and was curious what output settings those of you with cable boxes are using.

When I first installed the box it was configured to output everything in 1080i (which makes no sense for the *67 TVs - atleast to me.) I got into the SA-8300HD's setup wizard and renabled all of the possible outputs, and currently have the box setup to do pass-through.

I guess my question is, from everyone else's experience, is it better for the box to only output 720p - or let the TV do the processing?

ive been going back and forth on the 5078w with the pedestal. Does anyone have any problems with the pedestal itself? After hearing the problems with the stands for the 5067 im leaning towards the 78. Also is the pedestal adjustable? can i alter the height if i want?

Not much talk about this model. Is it because it looks like it belongs in Star Trek? I have a limited budget so getting a stand included is a plus. Also can you remove the TV from the pedastal for transportation or is the thing permantley attached?

There are much better stands than the one recommended for the 67.

The 78's pedestal is not adjustable or removable. Another problem with this model is where to put your other devices and still hide the wiring. Some like'em, but it's not for me. I say, keep it on the bridge, Scottie!

I guess my question is, from everyone else's experience, is it better for the box to only output 720p - or let the TV do the processing?


I have had mixed results with pass thru vs native 720p from my 8000hd cable box......but over all I find that sending 720p to the TV works well with all the various formats...

Also I think that sending 720p eliminates most if not all audio sync problems... the TV does not have to do any processing that may delay the video...

Don

shosky.. I've noticed the same problem with my HLR-5067W set.
I had a nice HLR-5087W and the components went out.. Samsung replaced it with a HLR-5067W and the picture is grainy & pixelated even after calibration. :( I'm talking with Samsung to have them replace my set.

I just purchased the Samsung HLR4266W and looking for the best picture settings? I have a SA Explorer 3250 HD box via component cables. All input is appreciated.

I have had mixed results with pass thru vs native 720p from my 8000hd cable box......but over all I find that sending 720p to the TV works well with all the various formats...

Also I think that sending 720p eliminates most if not all audio sync problems... the TV does not have to do any processing that may delay the video...

Don

I was playing around a bit with various settings. On poor quality signals on standard channels, it seemed like the TV did a better job of converting 480i to 720p, having the cable box convert 480i to 480p and then having the TV convert that to 720p seemed to result in more blockiness of the picture.

One thing I haven't tried yet, but want to try, is to have the cable box down convert the 1080i signals to 720p. It seems that it takes the TV a second or two to swap formats when the channel is changed. I figure if the cable box does the conversion channel changing might be smoother.

I have had mixed results with pass thru vs native 720p from my 8000hd cable box......but over all I find that sending 720p to the TV works well with all the various formats...

Also I think that sending 720p eliminates most if not all audio sync problems... the TV does not have to do any processing that may delay the video...

Don


it does not eliminate the problems, but does help some. If the program is being broadcast in 720p, and there is not much lag at all, but if the cable box converts it, there is still some lag on top of the regular lag just from the circuitry of processing the image.

You will get variations in lag from nearly none to alot regardless of what settings you come up with. Just the facts of broadcasting and dvd mastering.

it does not eliminate the problems, but does help some. If the program is being broadcast in 720p, and there is not much lag at all, but if the cable box converts it, there is still some lag on top of the regular lag just from the circuitry of processing the image.

You will get variations in lag from nearly none to alot regardless of what settings you come up with. Just the facts of broadcasting and dvd mastering.

I guess there will always be SOME lag... the TV will always do some processing (DINe), but when sending 720p there will be no scaling or de-interlacing done to the signal, greatly reducing the time to process the image, thus greatly reducing any noticable lag.

Also, I think, that the set top box (SA 8000HD) syncs (delays?) the audio to the video so all that is left is the processing by the TV, which will be minimal if sent a 720p signal...

Then again if there are audio sync problems with the original signal...

As far as DVDs go, once again I use an up-converting DVD player (Denon 3910) and send 720p to the TV.. I get no NOTICABLE lip sync problems...


Don

Just helped my parents pick out a new TV and went with the 5067W...rented a truck from Lowe's today just in time for the big game and what a gorgeous picture. I'll fool around with calibrating and whatnot this coming week, but I have one concern/question:

With 4:3 pictures, are the left and right edges slightly curved? I haven't measured it, so it might be my eyes playing tricks on me, but they looked fairly curved and I'm wondering if that's natural or not. Everything else about the set looked great, with very minimal fiddling of the settings.

edit: Not the best deal ever, but I did manage to get it from Best Buy after they took 10% off of their sale price...I was pretty happy with myself :)

With 4:3 pictures, are the left and right edges slightly curved?

This is not uncommon. It's referred to as the "pincushion effect" and is more pronounced with some sets than others.

Search this forum using the term "pincushion"... lots of info.

I got my 6167 a few months ago to replace a Sony 53HS30 and unable to admit it to my wife the picture on the new set is awful. I tell her that she is tired.

Connected to the Samsung is a Pioneer Elite DVD via component, XBOX via Component, DirecTV DVR40 TIVO via S-Video, Yamaha receiver (just for the menus) via RCA and Cable Box with coaxial.

1- The DirecTV receiver (normal signal not HDTV) signal looks very very bad, I am not even able to recognize faces sometimes, if I am playing something back from the TIVO it is even worse. It is like the Receiver is not sending enough pixels to the TV and is not able to fill the 61 inches and the TV is making up for it. I tried setting the DTV to wide screen or 4:3 and the result is the same. The blacks sometimes look like big stains on the set.
Changes cable and tried RCAs or S-Video.

2- The DVDs look fine the only problem is 16:9 view that still show the black lines on top and bottom, the DVD is set to Auto Progressive and 16:9 screen and also the TV. For example the only way I can cover the whole screen on " A Bugs Life" is to tell tell on the DVD Menu to do 4:3 and then it fills the whole screen. The picture looks great. I do not know if I have anything set up wrong here or if you need more info to solve this.

I was expecting the bad picture from my cable but sometimes it looks even better that the DTV. If I use the DTV on my other TV (old Sony) it look fine.

All cables are monster cable. Used Avia to setup the TV.

Where I live there is no HDTV and the Samsung Tech is far far away. So I have to deal with this on my own.

Thks

J

Hi everyone!

First time poster here and brand new owner of my first hdtv, the Samsung hlr5667W. I got the tv home yesterday and so far I am really impressed! I've got a few questions about my new tv and also I want to say thanks for all the info I've been able to gather off these forums so far.

First, while the picture quality looks awesome, is there any settings I should play with to get the picture just right in my house? I played around a little bit with changing the contrast etc. but I ended up putting it back to the factory defaults. Is there some settings that can prolong the life of the light projector?

Second, I bought a new dvd player, the Samsung DVDHD850, and I bought this without doing any research because I wanted to be able to watch dvds on my new tv right away. How does this dvd player rate? It was only $110 which is one of the reasons I bought it. Another question about the dvd player is I currently have it hooked up thru hdmi, but when I get my receiver and surround sound moved over to this new tv what is the correct way to set it up? I assume that I'm going to have the sound go directly from the dvd to receiver, via optical cable, but how do I set up the video and keep the video quality high?

Third, the million dollar question, will I have game lag with my xbox 360? I know this one I'll have to just try and see so hopefully I can pick up an x360 this week and try it out.

Also, any general advice you can offer (maybe cleaning, maintenance, etc.) would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much!

Hi everyone!

First time poster here and brand new owner of my first hdtv, the Samsung hlr5667W. I got the tv home yesterday and so far I am really impressed! I've got a few questions about my new tv and also I want to say thanks for all the info I've been able to gather off these forums so far.

Thanks so much!

I've had mine for ~3 weeks now.

1) The factory settings are generally way off. Pick up Digital Video Essentials to properly set up your picture. Unfortunately I'm at work and don't have access to my settings as a starting point. A quick search would give you some numbers though.

2) I don't have any experience with the Sammy DVD player (I got the Oppo), but HDMI is the best way to set up an up-converting player, rather than converting the signal from digital to analog and back again (as component cables would). Keep this connection for video, even when you send the audio to your receiver.

3) The 360 supposedly reduces the lag from the original xbox, but I'm not an owner (yet).

And as a general comment, video delay, regardless of source, will be shortest by feeding the tv 720p signals, so make this change whereever you can (DVD player, HD Cable Box, etc).

2- The DVDs look fine the only problem is 16:9 view that still show the black lines on top and bottom, the DVD is set to Auto Progressive and 16:9 screen and also the TV. For example the only way I can cover the whole screen on " A Bugs Life" is to tell tell on the DVD Menu to do 4:3 and then it fills the whole screen. The picture looks great. I do not know if I have anything set up wrong here or if you need more info to solve this.
J

This is normal behavior. Not all DvD's are 16:9 widescreen. Many are 2:35:1 and thus will have black bars on top and bottom even on a widescreen set.

I got my 6167 a few months ago to replace a Sony 53HS30 and unable to admit it to my wife the picture on the new set is awful. I tell her that she is tired.

Connected to the Samsung is a Pioneer Elite DVD via component, XBOX via Component, DirecTV DVR40 TIVO via S-Video, Yamaha receiver (just for the menus) via RCA and Cable Box with coaxial.

1- The DirecTV receiver (normal signal not HDTV) signal looks very very bad, I am not even able to recognize faces sometimes, if I am playing something back from the TIVO it is even worse. It is like the Receiver is not sending enough pixels to the TV and is not able to fill the 61 inches and the TV is making up for it. I tried setting the DTV to wide screen or 4:3 and the result is the same. The blacks sometimes look like big stains on the set.
Changes cable and tried RCAs or S-Video.

2- The DVDs look fine the only problem is 16:9 view that still show the black lines on top and bottom, the DVD is set to Auto Progressive and 16:9 screen and also the TV. For example the only way I can cover the whole screen on " A Bugs Life" is to tell tell on the DVD Menu to do 4:3 and then it fills the whole screen. The picture looks great. I do not know if I have anything set up wrong here or if you need more info to solve this.

I was expecting the bad picture from my cable but sometimes it looks even better that the DTV. If I use the DTV on my other TV (old Sony) it look fine.

All cables are monster cable. Used Avia to setup the TV.

Where I live there is no HDTV and the Samsung Tech is far far away. So I have to deal with this on my own.

Thks

J

I'm no pro on this subject, but in order to really appreciate your TV, you will need to view an HD signal. There may be no HD channels available with your Cable/Satellite provider, but you should be able to receive HD via OTA with an appropriate antenna. Try this web site for more info: http://www.antennaweb.org

Hope this helps!

Can anyone confirm that this will work for my HL-R5067W? It works for the 1080p sets but i really want to turn Dnle off if possible. Thanks.

WARNING, I ASSUME NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE CAUSED BY ENTERING THE SERVICE MENU! USE EXTREME CAUTION AND WRITE DOWN ANY SETTINGS BEFORE MAKING ANY CHANGES!

1. Enter the service menu by pressing "mute, 1, 8, 2, power" within a second of one another while the TV is turned off.
2. Once in the service menu, use the arrow keys to go to the "DNIe" page and right click.
3. Once in the DNIe page, turn each of the following parameters in the first column to the "OFF" position.

SNI_PROC_CEA
SNI_PROC_CEP
SNI_PROC_DEP
SNI_PROC_DCE
SNI_PROC_CCS
SNI_PROC_BWS
SNI_PROC_PCC
SNI_PROC_WTE
SNI_PROC_CTE

That's it! No more DNIe!

I couldn't get into the service menu using this sequence. I made sure I was pressing the keys fast enough, and tried several times to no avail. There must be a different key sequence to get into the service menu on the 67 series. Anyone know what it is?

EDIT: Realized that I was using my universal remote on which Mute is set to control my AV receiver. About to try it with TV remote, but because this will reset most/all custom settings to factory defaults, I want to take a minute and write down all my settings first so I can get them back. I'll update this later.

I couldn't get into the service menu using this sequence. I made sure I was pressing the keys fast enough, and tried several times to no avail. There must be a different key sequence to get into the service menu on the 67 series. Anyone know what it is?

Make sure you are pressing mute and that the TV is off. I finally got around to checking this out but these settings don't exist under the Dnle menu. I'm back to hoping that someone here knows how to disable Dnle and will be forthcoming with the information. The Super Bowl didn't look bad but there is still a considerable amount of pixelation with HD content. Any adjustments through the Service menu or not to help this problem are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Make sure you are pressing mute and that the TV is off. I finally got around to checking this out but these settings don't exist under the Dnle menu. I'm back to hoping that someone here knows how to disable Dnle and will be forthcoming with the information. The Super Bowl didn't look bad but there is still a considerable amount of pixelation with HD content. Any adjustments through the Service menu or not to help this problem are greatly appreciated. Thanks.


Ah, see my post edit about why I couldn't get in.

So you got in but these settings didn't exist? What did you see in there? I don't really want to just go in to poke around since it's supposed to reset all your custom user setting to the factory defaults.

Hi all.... a straight forward question or 2 for all you xx67 owners....

How do you like your set....

If you had to do it again would this TV be your choice?

I may find myself in a warranty exchange/refund situation and the HLR5067 is the match for the older HLN5065 I have had for the past 2 1/2 years.....

Any comments would be great....

Don

newbie question. I'm considering purchasing a Samsung 4667 used (from a private party). My question is: Can I transport it laying down? Or does it need to be kept vertical at all times? (I can lay it down in the jeep, but, would have to borrow a pickup if it need to be transported vertically).

The owner's manual says you should never lay the tv down on its side as dust or debris could enter the optics area and cause problems.

Of course if your only other option is to transfer it in an open pickup truck... I'd probably be more concerned about that, unless it was boxed up.

So after hooking some stuff up and showing my parents how to use the new set, I find out that the TV isn't detecting/showing the Fox HD channel. ie, when I hit "2" and then "enter", it goes to the SD channel and when I channel up, it goes straight to 4. I haven't tried detecting channels again yet, but I couldn't find it when trying to manually add either.

Any suggestions?

So after hooking some stuff up and showing my parents how to use the new set, I find out that the TV isn't detecting/showing the Fox HD channel. ie, when I hit "2" and then "enter", it goes to the SD channel and when I channel up, it goes straight to 4. I haven't tried detecting channels again yet, but I couldn't find it when trying to manually add either.

Any suggestions?

I don't quite know what you're anticipating. Are you expecting to find FoxHD at 2B and (if NBC is at channel x) NBC-HD at xB, etc? Do you have reason to expect this sort of arrangement or is it an assumption you made.

My Fox-HD is something like 101-2. Fox(SD) is at channel 11. CBS (SD) is 2, CBS-HD is 94-1. These are with the samsung's internal tuner (no set-top box) and after letting the TV Guide feature scan and populate the grid.

Through my STB, Fox is 11, Fox-HD is 911. CBS =2, CBS-HD=902, etc.

Hi all.... a straight forward question or 2 for all you xx67 owners....

How do you like your set....

If you had to do it again would this TV be your choice?

I may find myself in a warranty exchange/refund situation and the HLR5067 is the match for the older HLN5065 I have had for the past 2 1/2 years.....

Any comments would be great....

Don

I just got my 5067 a few weeks ago from CC (after MONTHS of research and shopping) and I'm happy with my choice. The PQ is great on HD and DVD but, like lots of other HD sets, looks just OK with SD. My old Sony CRT RP had a much better picture on SD but lacked the vibrant colors and brightness of the DLP and it didn't do HD.

I wish it didn't have the pincusion effect on the SD 4:3 and the audio lag can be an issue if the sound from the STB is not run through the TV before heading over to the receiver (I don't have an audio delay function in my rec.).

I haven't watched a lot of DVD on this set yet but I did pick up a Samsung HD-950 player and got it to upconvert to 720p over component using the "angle hack". The picture is really sharp and film-like using the "movie" mode on the TV and tweaking some of the pitcure settings.

I don't see rainbows and viewing angle isn't an issue for me. I went with this set because I can see the screendoor effect on LCD's and didn't want plasma.

halfshell

Halfshell:

Thanks for the reply.... good to hear that you like this set... so the only issues you have with this set are audio sync and pincushion on 4:3 material...

Are there always audio sync problems if you don't run the audio thru the TV?

How bad is the pincushion on your set... does it detract from the image that you see or is it easily ignored..... I watch a lot of 4:3 stuff....

I too see the SDE on most LCDs and I am worried about burn in with 4:3 material on plasmas... and, of course a a good 50" plasma will cost alot more....

Once again, thx for the replay...

Anyone else care to comment?

Don

Originally Posted by EvilYoda
So after hooking some stuff up and showing my parents how to use the new set, I find out that the TV isn't detecting/showing the Fox HD channel. ie, when I hit "2" and then "enter", it goes to the SD channel and when I channel up, it goes straight to 4. I haven't tried detecting channels again yet, but I couldn't find it when trying to manually add either.
Any suggestions?



I think that you will find that your cable or satellite company moves the HD channel to an entirely new channel, usually grouped together with other HD offerings. For instance, my pathetic Adelphia service and STB groups all HD channels in the 700's so my local ABC is channel 10 in SD, but my HD ABC is at 701. Not sure the answer to your question if you are getting HD over the air.
I bet your cable or satellite company can easily tell you where to find your HD channels. Hope you have more locals in HD than me- only ABC local so far.

Halfshell:

Thanks for the reply.... good to hear that you like this set... so the only issues you have with this set are audio sync and pincushion on 4:3 material...

Are there always audio sync problems if you don't run the audio thru the TV?

How bad is the pincushion on your set... does it detract from the image that you see or is it easily ignored..... I watch a lot of 4:3 stuff....

I too see the SDE on most LCDs and I am worried about burn in with 4:3 material on plasmas... and, of course a a good 50" plasma will cost alot more....

Once again, thx for the replay...

Anyone else care to comment?

Don

Audio sync was a problem when I watched certain shows and certain channels off my Motorola HD DVR STB. I had my stereo RCAs running directly from the STB to my receiver. Once I put the TV in the middle, the sync issue was gone. I just purchased a coax digital cable to run the digital out from the STB to my receiver (since they're about 40 ft apart) and I'm hoping my sync issues don't return but they probably will.

I don't have any audio sync issue with DVD that I've noticed so far even though I'm connected directly to the receiver for audio and directly to the TV for video. Now that I'm sending a 720P signal from the DVD, I doubt I'll have any problems.

Since I'm starting to watch more HDTV, the vertical pincushioning on the edges of the SD 4:3 window is not a major distraction but it's definitely noticeable. Honestly, the lousy PQ on SD is more of an issue (for me anyway). I read that Samsung has some "acceptable" pincushioning measurements but I don't know what they are. Mine bows in by more than 1/4" at the middle versus the top. I also see a little PCing on the horizontal bars when watching a 2.35:1 movie but not nearly as much.

If I were you, I'd try to check out a few sets with 4:3 in the stores to see if it's a deal breaker.

The lack of burn-in (especially when using a HTPC) and convergence issues was a also a major selling point for me.

HS

Well the cable company hasn't dropped off the new box yet, the set's only been tuning ATSC thus far. I know where the channel should be since I had it on Sunday but after some screwing around with the non-HD cable box, Fox 2-1 HD isn't showing up anymore.

I'll figure it out, somehow...either way, box'll be here soon.

Mine bows in by more than 1/4" at the middle versus the top. I also see a little PCing on the horizontal bars when watching a 2.35:1 movie but not nearly as much.

If I were you, I'd try to check out a few sets with 4:3 in the stores to see if it's a deal breaker.

The lack of burn-in (especially when using a HTPC) and convergence issues was a also a major selling point for me.

HS

Halfshell - Thanks for the reply - I shall check out the pincushion on some sets at the B&M stores, although I think it varies from set to set.

SO you don't get any audio sync with the DVD @ 720p... what do you send from your cable box? Have you tried 720p?

Once again thanks for the info... it helps....

Don

I have a HLR5067W and I just got a DVD-HD850 to play DVD's in 720p. I already own a Panasonic 5-disc DVD changer (SD P-scan). So last night I was comparing the two and I see no difference. I tried both the HDMI and the Component on the HD850 (using the "angle hack" to enable 720p over Component) and set the resolution to 720p (actually, I tried all the resolutions) and could not distinguish between the two or between either of those and the 480p Component output from the Panny when comparing the same scenes from the same DVD. I had always questioned what kind of up-conversion these so-called HD DVD players could do on standard DVD's that the TV couldn't do, but with a good deal going at CC I figured I'd give it a try to see for myself. I have a fairly discerning eye and care a great deal about the fine-tuning of my video signal, yet I see no reason to keep the HD850. It appears that the Sammy TV is capable of the same level of up-conversion that the HD850 is. I don't even notice any audio sync issues when using the Panny, even the though the TV is doing a little extra work to up-convert from 480p to 720p (I can adjust the timing on my AV receiver anyway to compensate for any issues that may arise). So unless someone can offer a suggestion for some setting that you think I've missed, I'm returning the HD850 tonight. Anyone?

So after hooking some stuff up and showing my parents how to use the new set, I find out that the TV isn't detecting/showing the Fox HD channel. ie, when I hit "2" and then "enter", it goes to the SD channel and when I channel up, it goes straight to 4. I haven't tried detecting channels again yet, but I couldn't find it when trying to manually add either.

Any suggestions?

I ran the TV through the auto process where it 'finds' all active channels.. its in SETUP somewhere. Then the HD '-1;-2' channels showed up and I could channel up and down to them.

I have a fairly discerning eye and care a great deal about the fine-tuning of my video signal, yet I see no reason to keep the HD850. It appears that the Sammy TV is capable of the same level of up-conversion that the HD850 is.

The HD850 is not that great of an upscaling DVD player... I have a Denon 3910 and I see a great improvement with DVI vs component... The picture is almost HD.

The Sammy does a good job of upscaling... so you need a DVD player that does a better job... and that is not the HD850.

Just my observations.....

Don

The HD850 is not that great of an upscaling DVD player... I have a Denon 3910 and I see a great improvement with DVI vs component... The picture is almost HD.

The Sammy does a good job of upscaling... so you need a DVD player that does a better job... and that is not the HD850.

Just my observations.....

Don

Good observations, and well received. Since the Sammy does a nice job upscaling and I'm content with the image quality as it is (even though it's clearly not HD), I think I'll save my money and wait to buy a true HD-DVD player with upscaling capabilities when they hit the market and become affordable.

I read that Samsung has some "acceptable" pincushioning measurements but I don't know what they are. Mine bows in by more than 1/4" at the middle versus the top. I also see a little PCing on the horizontal bars when watching a 2.35:1 movie but not nearly as much.
HS

Halfshell:

Just to let you know... Samsungs "acceptable" pincushioning is 1/4" if yours is more than that... you have an issue that you CAN go to Samsung about....

on that note....a quick question for everyone... Has anyone had service on their xx67 to fix a pincushion problem.... what did they do to fix the problem..... did it work?

Thx

Don

Hello,

I need some help.... anything will help, I have the Canadian equivelent to the HLR5067W the HLR604W (I came here because there is nothing on the net about this TV, especially not forums) and Iam happy with it but I have problems....


The picture looks great when things are up close.... but then there are the 2 main problems the TV has right now:

1. Darker colors look bad, like lets say the scene in a movie is mainly dark green or black (like when the character is in a room or something) its moving?? It actually fluctuates a bit and is grainy.

2. Over all the picture is good especially when things are really up close and big, but over all the picture is grainy..... whats up with this?



Im using a new Panasonic Up Conversion DVD player, watching newer DVDS like Batman Begins and Spiderman and stuff and I see these problems throughout... its kind of annoying since I just bought the TV yesterday. The DVD player is hooked up using an HDMI cable, its set to output 720p just like the native resolution of the TV, etc etc.... whats going on?

Is this a problem for people? Iam sitting a good distance from the set as well, its just the picture looking grainy.. it bothers me because it doesnt scream "HIDEF" at all.... it looks like garbage mostly. Its hard to not notice.

Ugh.... overall id say im half impressed and half unimpressed..... I can take it back and exchange it but then im worried ill run into the same problem with another set. ARGH! Graininess!.... I cant stand it.

Help.

Is this a problem for people? Iam sitting a good distance from the set as well, its just the picture looking grainy.. it bothers me because it doesnt scream "HIDEF" at all.... it looks like garbage mostly. Its hard to not notice.

Ugh.... overall id say im half impressed and half unimpressed..... I can take it back and exchange it but then im worried ill run into the same problem with another set. ARGH! Graininess!.... I cant stand it.

Help.

Reflex:

Sorry to hear about your problems with this set.... I am in Canada too, and have been looking at this set and it is very hard to find information on it as it seems to be a Canada only model.

Have you calibrated your set yet? most people find that a calibration solves many of the problems that you are seeing.

You can either get it done by a pro for about $300... or you can get digital essentials or avia(sp) calibration disk and do it yourself... you can even use the THX optimizer that comes on many DVD to at least do a basic calibration...

I think that, once calibrated, you will find the PQ better... maybe not perfect, but better.

A quick question for you... Do you notice any pincushion on 4:3 material... seems to be a problem on the xx67 sets ... is it a problem on xx64 sets?

Thx

Don

I have a HLR5067W and I just got a DVD-HD850 to play DVD's in 720p. I already own a Panasonic 5-disc DVD changer (SD P-scan). So last night I was comparing the two and I see no difference. I tried both the HDMI and the Component on the HD850 (using the "angle hack" to enable 720p over Component) and set the resolution to 720p (actually, I tried all the resolutions) and could not distinguish between the two or between either of those and the 480p Component output from the Panny when comparing the same scenes from the same DVD. I had always questioned what kind of up-conversion these so-called HD DVD players could do on standard DVD's that the TV couldn't do, but with a good deal going at CC I figured I'd give it a try to see for myself. I have a fairly discerning eye and care a great deal about the fine-tuning of my video signal, yet I see no reason to keep the HD850. It appears that the Sammy TV is capable of the same level of up-conversion that the HD850 is. I don't even notice any audio sync issues when using the Panny, even the though the TV is doing a little extra work to up-convert from 480p to 720p (I can adjust the timing on my AV receiver anyway to compensate for any issues that may arise). So unless someone can offer a suggestion for some setting that you think I've missed, I'm returning the HD850 tonight. Anyone?

Thanks for the info. I have a 3yr old Sony 400disc 480p that I'll finally be able to hook up tonight. I was curious if I should get an upscaling dvd player for when I really want to watch something as good as it can be. I don't have the cash to spend on a really good single unit so it's nice to know that a sub$200 upscaling dvd player is probably not worth it.

Reflex:

Sorry to hear about your problems with this set.... I am in Canada too, and have been looking at this set and it is very hard to find information on it as it seems to be a Canada only model.

Have you calibrated your set yet? most people find that a calibration solves many of the problems that you are seeing.

You can either get it done by a pro for about $300... or you can get digital essentials or avia(sp) calibration disk and do it yourself... you can even use the THX optimizer that comes on many DVD to at least do a basic calibration...

I think that, once calibrated, you will find the PQ better... maybe not perfect, but better.

A quick question for you... Do you notice any pincushion on 4:3 material... seems to be a problem on the xx67 sets ... is it a problem on xx64 sets?

Thx

Don



4:3 material seemed fine to me on my hlr5064 set... HDTV its self looks fine too, but watching movies on this thing for me is a total let down, I popped in BATMAN BEGINS and other than their faces (which was still kind of grainy and not too sharp) it looked pretty crappy to me, and im not videophile or expert and im not trying to over analyze the TV, its plain as day to me that it looks pretty bad, really grainy on some parts and the background fluctuates all the time, its really hard to enjoy a film when this is going on the whole time.

It is hard to find anything about this set, like we have both stated because its the Canadian version..... I havent calibrated it, I tweaked some of the settings and found no really big difference at all.... I have 30 days to return it and im looking into a different TV altogether to be honest.... I enjoy my video games a lot but I love watching HDTV and goddamn DVDs! And the DVD just looks plain BAD in my opinion, I dont know how anyone could enjoy a film with a grainy look to it, especially on a supposed HD set like this.... its just really frustrating, so please forgive my language and attitude at this moment haha... really really frustrating.

I dont know how anyone could enjoy a film with a grainy look to it, especially on a supposed HD set like this.... its just really frustrating, so please forgive my language and attitude at this moment haha... really really frustrating.

Reflex:

Greatly suggest that you get a calibration disk and calibrate the HDMI input with your DVD player... it can make a huge difference.

or.......

Try hooking up a different DVD player (if you have access to one) and try hooking up your panny thru the components... just to get an idea of where the problem is... iF SD tv looks ok and HD tv looks great... maybe there is a problem with the HDMI input on this set or maybe pannys and sammys don't like each other :)

If you don't mind telling me... where did you buy this set.. and what other brands/models are you thinking of if this can't be fixed.

My old HLN-5065 is being replaced under extended warranty..... I can get cash if I want....so I am looking at everything around before I jump.....

Thx

Don

Eight months ago I purchased a Samsung HLR 4667w Dlp,through my local Sears Store. I also bought the extended warranty .I went the warranty route because of all the problems,I had with a previous Hitachi. Here we go again , last week I began hearing a popping sound coming from the left rear side of the set,then the unit shut itself off with the 3 front LED indicators flashing. Sears service tech calls Samsungs technical service, they tell him to replace the ballast and the projector lamp.He ordered the parts and I am awaiting them to ship to my house next week and then have them installed. My question for any of the techs that frequent this site. Is this unusual to have the lamp and Ballast go in a relatively new set and should I begin to think about trading out of this TV. Up till last week I enjoyed the PQ of this set ,a big improvement over the 43 Hitachi rear projection that I had last. Thanks in advance for your replys. Frank

Hiyaz

I have a 5067 and cant seem to get a decent picture out of it.
I checked and changed th aspect ratio to 16:9 in both the tv and the Philips Dircect TV box but most of the time everything looks fuzzy and all the people look like there heads are too big and they look squaty? LOL

This is not a HD box but it is only a couple years old.

I can put in a dvd in the Panasinc player and the picture looks fabulous.

All my connections as far as coax is the Monster gold cables so I dont think it's the connections.

any help would be apreciated..

thnx

Reflex:

Greatly suggest that you get a calibration disk and calibrate the HDMI input with your DVD player... it can make a huge difference.

or.......

Try hooking up a different DVD player (if you have access to one) and try hooking up your panny thru the components... just to get an idea of where the problem is... iF SD tv looks ok and HD tv looks great... maybe there is a problem with the HDMI input on this set or maybe pannys and sammys don't like each other :)

If you don't mind telling me... where did you buy this set.. and what other brands/models are you thinking of if this can't be fixed.

My old HLN-5065 is being replaced under extended warranty..... I can get cash if I want....so I am looking at everything around before I jump.....

Thx

Don


I bought the TV at Best Buy..... mostly because they have cheaper prices, and they have the 30 day return policy. I really dont think its the DVD player, but Im sure I need to calibrate the TV.... can I buy a calibration disc at Best Buy? Ive been there so many times already this month, but im determined to make myself happy with getting the TV thats for me.

The other model im thinking of getting is the SONY KDFE50A10, I hear that it is quite a bit clearer and crisper than the HLR5064W DLP by Samsung. I guess ill try calibrating it.... can this make the image sharper and less fuzzy/grainy? Because thats my main concern. Ill give this TV up in a second, because the graininess is just way too much for me, it makes me too frustrated to be able to sit back and enjoy a grainy movie.

I bought the TV at Best Buy..... mostly because they have cheaper prices, and they have the 30 day return policy. I really dont think its the DVD player, but Im sure I need to calibrate the TV.... can I buy a calibration disc at Best Buy? Ive been there so many times already this month, but im determined to make myself happy with getting the TV thats for me.

The other model im thinking of getting is the SONY KDFE50A10, I hear that it is quite a bit clearer and crisper than the HLR5064W DLP by Samsung. I guess ill try calibrating it.... can this make the image sharper and less fuzzy/grainy? Because thats my main concern. Ill give this TV up in a second, because the graininess is just way too much for me, it makes me too frustrated to be able to sit back and enjoy a grainy movie.

Reflex:

Calibration CAN make a vast difference... my set also had a grainy sort of crawly picture when I first got it... after calibrating and tweaking it was fantastic... too bad nobody can repair this set... I was very happy with the PQ and don't really want a new one......

If you are still not happy with this set... take it back... for the cost of these things you have a right to expect a great picture.

Thx

Don

yeah im going back to the store tonight to ask about calibration discs and someone told me that it could be the type of dvd player you have.

yeah im going back to the store tonight to ask about calibration discs and someone told me that it could be the type of dvd player you have.

Reflex:

I have a denon 3910.. it is a excelent DVD player (excelent audio too), but it is expensive.. I paid about 1600.00 for it.. but it plays DVDs, DVD Audio and SACDs...has HDMI, DVI, ilink, Denon link, component, svideo, composite, digital optical and coax, and 5.1 anlog outs....loaded as they say...

It also uses the same chip set as the sammys do... the Genisis FLI2300... it works very well with 720p DLPs

And it weighs about 20 lbs... built like a tank.

Don

Hiyaz

I have a 5067 and cant seem to get a decent picture out of it.
I checked and changed th aspect ratio to 16:9 in both the tv and the Philips Dircect TV box but most of the time everything looks fuzzy and all the people look like there heads are too big and they look squaty? LOL

This is not a HD box but it is only a couple years old.

I can put in a dvd in the Panasinc player and the picture looks fabulous.

All my connections as far as coax is the Monster gold cables so I dont think it's the connections.

any help would be apreciated..

thnx


I just watched Lost. It was greenish grainy almost unwatchable.
The screen almost looks like it's magnified?
For the heck of it I turned pip and the small screen was crystl clear.
This is getten frustrating....

I dont know how good you can tell by this pic but you can see how big his head looks and the grainyness..

http://webpages.charter.net/sgp9/Lost.jpg

I just watched Lost. It was greenish grainy almost unwatchable.
The screen almost looks like it's magnified?
For the heck of it I turned pip and the small screen was crystl clear.
This is getten frustrating....

I dont know how good you can tell by this pic but you can see how big his head looks and the grainyness..

http://webpages.charter.net/sgp9/Lost.jpg




hmmmm I have the same problem with my Sammy.... it looks grainy on my set through high quality cables and good dvd player.. i get a grainy image... which i totally dont like.... sigh..... me thinks ill exchange it.

I'm thinking of getting Digital Video Essentials to see if I can't get a better picture out of my HLR5067W. Will it matter if I'm using S-Video to connect my DVD player to my TV or will it only work using HDMI? Also, Frys only had the PAL version. I'm assuming I need to hunt down the NTSC version?

I just watched Lost. It was greenish grainy almost unwatchable.
The screen almost looks like it's magnified?
For the heck of it I turned pip and the small screen was crystl clear.
This is getten frustrating....

I think what you are seeing is just poor SD signal quality. When I first got my DLP I was really upset with the crappy picture I was getting for cable TV.

The picture was way better on my 27" CRT. I played around with settings and calibration... new cables etc.... got it better, but still my 27" looked way better... until I sat about 1 foot away from the 27" set... and there it was... the same blocky grainy crappy picture... just at 7 or 8 feet you can't see them...

Now take that crappy picture and scale (magnify) to 720p at 50" and WOW do those blocky grainy things get big and stand right out... unless you stand 15 feet aways or so...when it would look ok at least.... :)

Calibration and tweaking will help with the greeny part...

Sending the TV a good clean signal will help the most....

Your picture seems to look stretched or zoomed.. I like to call it FAT head... it is a 4:3 Standard def picture is it not? Zoomed or stretched to fill the screen?

Hope this helps a bit...

Don

Here it goes on Friday im going to be making my first HD purchase. I happen to work at BB and my discount is very nice on these sets. Im in between the HLR5067w and the 42a10 or the 50a10. I say the 42 because its nearly the same price as the 50 sammy. I would pay the extra money for the 50a10 but im thinking the 42 would be perfect for my space. Id be viewing movies and such from about 8 feet and most of my tv viewing from about 5 feet at my computer. :D Now ive seen both these sets alot as I work there I have compared and read and compared again. The Sammy dont look half bad nor does the Sony. I do like the DLP but it im worried about moving parts and audio sync. The sony does have the SDE and I do see it but im basically right on top of it we just recently set up two 42a10 with a 360 and a ps2 I must say these things like really good on this set. Im so on the fence about this purchase I dont want to wait for the new models I want a TV now. :p Id like to know your guys opinion on this purchase. If you had it to do all over would it be Sony or another model? Let me know what you think.

AVS Greatest HT Forum.

I think what you are seeing is just poor SD signal quality. When I first got my DLP I was really upset with the crappy picture I was getting for cable TV.


I would agree with that as well. I watched season 1 on DVD and the picture was great, and I've watched plenty of other SD material via satellite that doesn't look too bad, but I've noticed all kinds of problems with the Lost broadcasts. That rules out the TV as the problem in my mind (at least in my case).

I would agree with that as well. I watched season 1 on DVD and the picture was great, and I've watched plenty of other SD material via satellite that doesn't look too bad, but I've noticed all kinds of problems with the Lost broadcasts. That rules out the TV as the problem in my mind (at least in my case).

Watching the Super Bowl on ABC, it was crystal clear on HD but when I flipped it over to SD it looked horrible. For some reason, ABC seems to be one of the worst SD channels I have.

The picture looks great when things are up close.... but then there are the 2 main problems the TV has right now:

1. Darker colors look bad, like lets say the scene in a movie is mainly dark green or black (like when the character is in a room or something) its moving?? It actually fluctuates a bit and is grainy.

Help.

REFLEX,

Are you having problems with dark scenes just through DVD or on every input? When I first got my 5067 (Nov. 2005), I had poor PQ of dark scenes on my inputs for my Comcast HD STB and DVD player (480p). Tweaking the settings in the User Menu did not really improve anything (regarding poor PQ of dark scenes). Needless to say, I was very disappointed with my purchase. After reading through this forum, I came across a few posts that mentioned the Index setting in the Service Menu. Since I wasn't ready just yet to give up on the TV and return it, I thought I'd try entering the SM and make a few adjustments. I adjusted the Index setting in the SM and I'm very happy with the PQ now. If you're willing to enter the SM, that just might fix your problem. Just to give you an idea how much you might have to tweak your setting, I adjusted my Index from the default of 50 down to 42. If you decide to enter the SM, I recommend you do it with one of your inputs turned on and the TV set to that input. Your DVD player might be a better choice, as you can freeze the picture on something that shows the problems your having. As you adjust the Index setting, you will be able to see if the adjustment you're making is improving the PQ or not. If you do the adjustment with no input signal, you'll be playing a guessing game.

Good luck!

Hiyaz

I have a 5067 and cant seem to get a decent picture out of it.
I checked and changed th aspect ratio to 16:9 in both the tv and the Philips Dircect TV box but most of the time everything looks fuzzy and all the people look like there heads are too big and they look squaty? LOL


It sounds like you're stretching a 4:3 SD image to 16:9. Only HD broadcasts are in 16:9, which is why I have all non-HD (that includes digital broadcasts that are not HD) images set to 4:3 on my 5067. That preserves the proper ratio and does not have the distortion that you're seeing. The fuzziness is simply from watching a SD broadcast on a large TV. That's just the way it is (though SD quality can vary greatly based on the source and the TV). This TV is for viewing HD content. If you're not going to have HD content on it, I can't see any reason to have an HDTV. That being said, you can minimize the SD problem by switching to 4:3 aspect and calibrating the video settings.

Here it goes on Friday im going to be making my first HD purchase. I happen to work at BB and my discount is very nice on these sets. Im in between the HLR5067w and the 42a10 or the 50a10. I say the 42 because its nearly the same price as the 50 sammy. I would pay the extra money for the 50a10 but im thinking the 42 would be perfect for my space. Id be viewing movies and such from about 8 feet and most of my tv viewing from about 5 feet at my computer. :D Now ive seen both these sets alot as I work there I have compared and read and compared again. The Sammy dont look half bad nor does the Sony. I do like the DLP but it im worried about moving parts and audio sync. The sony does have the SDE and I do see it but im basically right on top of it we just recently set up two 42a10 with a 360 and a ps2 I must say these things like really good on this set. Im so on the fence about this purchase I dont want to wait for the new models I want a TV now. :p Id like to know your guys opinion on this purchase. If you had it to do all over would it be Sony or another model? Let me know what you think.
I've got the HLR5067w, and am VERY happy with it. That being said, I won't comment on Sony vs. Samsung, but just on screen size. I normally sit about 13 - 15 feet away from my 50", and think that is perfect. If I'm reading your post correctly, you've indicated that you'll be sitting 5-8 feet away, with the majority of your time being spent at 5 feet. To be honest, if I tried watching my tv at 5 feet, I'd not only get a massive headache, but also be extremely disappointed in PQ, even on HD broadcasts. If it were my choice, I wouldn't get anything larger than 42", and maybe even think about 40", since that would put some of the really nice plasmas in a similar price bracket with the 50" DLP's. (I assume I've just commited some act of heresy in a DLP thread, though, so I'll stop there :p )

It sounds like you're stretching a 4:3 SD image to 16:9. Only HD broadcasts are in 16:9, which is why I have all non-HD (that includes digital broadcasts that are not HD) images set to 4:3 on my 5067. That preserves the proper ratio and does not have the distortion that you're seeing. The fuzziness is simply from watching a SD broadcast on a large TV. That's just the way it is (though SD quality can vary greatly based on the source and the TV). This TV is for viewing HD content. If you're not going to have HD content on it, I can't see any reason to have an HDTV. That being said, you can minimize the SD problem by switching to 4:3 aspect and calibrating the video settings.
Couldn't agree more - whenever I watch SDTV (which is as rarely as humanly possible) I switch the aspect ratio to 4:3. When not at home, my fiance always switches it back to 16:9 - her priority is having it big, even though she recognizes that it looks better in the correct aspect ratio.

Even if you don't want to upgrade to a newer HD cable box (which, in my area, is only $8 more per month) or a CABLEcard (which, in my area, is actually only $17 to install with no monthly fee), why not watch the networks over the air in HDTV? In most areas, you can just attach a $7 Walmart antenna to the tv and get most of them. If you're not watching any HD on this tv, you're missing out on the best part of it. It's like ordering a pizza and just eating the crust :D

I just watched Lost. It was greenish grainy almost unwatchable.
The screen almost looks like it's magnified?
For the heck of it I turned pip and the small screen was crystl clear.
This is getten frustrating....

I dont know how good you can tell by this pic but you can see how big his head looks and the grainyness..



I totally agree with eengert. This is an HDTV. If your not gonna watch Hi-Def or Movies on an Upscaling dvd player then this TV is not for you. This TV does not play well with standard definition broadcasts.

Watching Lost this past week, I was really struck by how good and how poor the picture can look. I was watching the HD OTA signal, by the way.

In the bright, clear scenes, and closeups, the picture is awesome. But in the really dark scenes (which there were alot of this past week), everything is just black, and with very little detail.

I haven't yet calibrated my 5067, so maybe that will help, but it would be great if I could pickup just a bit more detail in the predominantly dark scenes of Lost.

Just my 2 cents

Watching Lost this past week, I was really struck by how good and how poor the picture can look. I was watching the HD OTA signal, by the way.

In the bright, clear scenes, and closeups, the picture is awesome. But in the really dark scenes (which there were alot of this past week), everything is just black, and with very little detail.

I haven't yet calibrated my 5067, so maybe that will help, but it would be great if I could pickup just a bit more detail in the predominantly dark scenes of Lost.

Just my 2 cents

Read my post from earlier today regarding the Index setting. Or search this thread for "Index". This might help your situation. It worked for me.

Thnx fr all the help.
I do have both the Direct tv box and the tv set to 16:9 ratio but your sayn the signal is in 4:3 ,correct?
I do plan on getting a HD box but will probobly change from Direct TV to Charter cable.

The HD box for Direct TV my wife wanted to get was $399.oo with a 250 mb tvo in it.
It would be cheaper and better quality I think to switch to Charter cable. I already have charter fr my internet.

I see some talking about calibrating the television. How is that done ?

Thnx again....

I have seen quite a few of this seasons Losts and last nights was perrty bad , My wife didn't notice but i sure did . Every know and then i would get a green effect on a little less than quarter of the upper left screen , I thought maybe it was my screen but i changed the channel to a few others and it was fine just a bad episode
I was also wondering how much in time wise there is lag on my screen when playing X box 360 . I have noticed that off line i don't notice as much just because they are computer players on DOA 4 , but in online it may make all the difference . online i only seem to win about 20% of the time . and some of my other friends tell me i don't play like an E grade player . I just don't win as much as they do and feel like i should be at least B grade.

Read my post from earlier today regarding the Index setting. Or search this thread for "Index". This might help your situation. It worked for me.

What is this Index and what exactly is it affecting? Also, once in the SM, how do you navigate to the Index property?

Do you have any other SM settings that you would recommend? I haven't yet gone into the SM. Partly because I've read that when you do, you lose all your custom settings and it reverts to the factory defaults. But also because I wasn't sure what I would modify. Any suggestions and clarification on the process of entering the SM would be appreciated.

I have seen quite a few of this seasons Losts and last nights was perrty bad , My wife didn't notice but i sure did . Every know and then i would get a green effect on a little less than quarter of the upper left screen , I thought maybe it was my screen but i changed the channel to a few others and it was fine just a bad episode
I was also wondering how much in time wise there is lag on my screen when playing X box 360 . I have noticed that off line i don't notice as much just because they are computer players on DOA 4 , but in online it may make all the difference . online i only seem to win about 20% of the time . and some of my other friends tell me i don't play like an E grade player . I just don't win as much as they do and feel like i should be at least B grade.

I have a standard XBOX and do have a noticeable delay, but all my games are 480p and the TV has to upscale to 720p, which takes time on the slow chipset Samsung uses. I wouldn't expect the delay on 720p games since that's the native resolution of the TV and it doesn't have to do any processing (other than the stupid DNIe). But there are a few things that you can do to make sure you're getting the best possible response...

1) Make sure you're using at least component cables (I'm not sure if DVI/HDMI is available for 360...if it is, use it) and you might even want to try Monster cables - I've heard that makes a bit of difference. Also make sure you're going directly from the 360 into your TV and not through some other component.

2) Set the input name on your TV to "GAME" ... there is some chatter that this supposedly turns off some of the processing that the TV otherwise does on signals

3) Make sure DNR is turned off for that input ... you don't want any unneccesary processing going on inside the TV

4) Go into the 360 dashboard and navigate to the Video settings and make sure you've enabled the 720p output resolution. This will make sure the 360 is feeding the signal in 720p so that the TV won't have to do any conversion.

If you didn't have some of those things setup already, setting them should make some difference. You should also test with a game where you can measure any lag, such as football kicking or golf swinging where you can see how well the meter responds to your button press. Hope that helps.

I have a standard XBOX and do have a noticeable delay, but all my games are 480p and the TV has to upscale to 720p, which takes time on the slow chipset Samsung uses. I wouldn't expect the delay on 720p games since that's the native resolution of the TV and it doesn't have to do any processing (other than the stupid DNIe). But there are a few things that you can do to make sure you're getting the best possible response...

1) Make sure you're using at least component cables (I'm not sure if DVI/HDMI is available for 360...if it is, use it) and you might even want to try Monster cables - I've heard that makes a bit of difference. Also make sure you're going directly from the 360 into your TV and not through some other component.

2) Set the input name on your TV to "GAME" ... there is some chatter that this supposedly turns off some of the processing that the TV otherwise does on signals

3) Make sure DNR is turned off for that input ... you don't want any unneccesary processing going on inside the TV

4) Go into the 360 dashboard and navigate to the Video settings and make sure you've enabled the 720p output resolution. This will make sure the 360 is feeding the signal in 720p so that the TV won't have to do any conversion.

If you didn't have some of those things setup already, setting them should make some difference. You should also test with a game where you can measure any lag, such as football kicking or golf swinging where you can see how well the meter responds to your button press. Hope that helps.
ya i have tried all that with the exception of monster cable component cable , or a game that has a response . the only reason i notice is because the echo i get when i run the aptical audio out from x box to receiver and the tv valume up, but if i run the optical from my tv its gone with the tv valume up as well, i just want to know how much it is to see how big of an advantage other online players are getting on me . i may play with the Smenu later tonite in the DNIe settings .360 dose not have an hdmi cable out yet .By the way my tv is the HLR 4667

I am serious about buying a Samsung HDTV. Could you please help me with information on the following quesions?

1. How good is the following Amazon deal and is it a standard offer? I am still working on a basement refinish job and do not need a TV for another month.

56" = $2000
61" = $2400

2. The TV viewing distance will be 11 to 12 feet Using a digital cable card mostly without High Definition (9 channels available). What size would you reccomend? I have seen all kinds of advice regarding this on the Web.

3. I read one report of poor perfromance when using this TV with Xbox is there a similiar concern with Xbox 360. The report said there was a delay between button presses and action.

4. Are there any known problems with this TV.

5. Would you buy it again or consider other options.

Thanks
John

eengert,

I've had my set ISF calibrated (purchased in October '05) and have done some additional SM tweaks. One major one, if you aren't daring enough to turn off the DNIe setting (which I am not) is to adjust the "Actuator Gain" setting. This lowers the sharpness a bit, and as long as you've calibrated sharpness via DVE (usually near zero in the user menu) and have turned off the Digital NR setting in the menu, adjusting the actuator gain will help just enough. I can explain further if anyone would like.

As for the green tint to HD feeds (like "Lost"), that can usually be fixed via grayscale. In having my set calibrated, I was very high on green and had absolutly no blue...but I also didn't have a tint problem (black was still black, just burning hot). I have noticed that the green decoder is very high, and if you have a set of color filters you can see this. Now using red and blue filters I can get the color perfect, but green is still a problem. I can get the right "tint", but there is just too much from the decoder. This is easily seen using DVE, where instead of being pure green and pure black while looking through the green filter, I can plainly see all the color boxes...correspondingly lighter and darker.

I would suggest grayscale calibration at the least, which will give you better detail in the dark scenes. I'm not sure about the index setting, but hopefully MANNA can give some more detail.

Good luck!

I am serious about buying a Samsung HDTV. Could you please help me with information on the following quesions?

1. How good is the following Amazon deal and is it a standard offer? I am still working on a basement refinish job and do not need a TV for another month.

56" = $2000
61" = $2400

I think it's a very good deal. I payed more for my 50" than they are offering the 56" at.

2. The TV viewing distance will be 11 to 12 feet Using a digital cable card mostly without High Definition (9 channels available). What size would you reccomend? I have seen all kinds of advice regarding this on the Web.

My wife and I are at about 12' for our 50" and have no detail loss (as far as we can tell). This should be fine for the sizes you are looking at, but I might shy away from the 61".

3. I read one report of poor perfromance when using this TV with Xbox is there a similiar concern with Xbox 360. The report said there was a delay between button presses and action.

The major problem is that the TV upscales all inputs to 720p. With 360, the output can be set to 720p which should have no lag. I never noticed any problem with either Xbox, 360, or PS2, with the exception being Dance Dance Revolution (a timing game) on the PS2. Other then that, I've had no visible problems.

4. Are there any known problems with this TV.

Unlike some TV's, this set has green push (too much green). You also should check in-store if you can see the rainbow effect. One thing that occurred with mine is that I fried my HDMI input and it's currently in the LONG repair process, but that's because I did the no-no hot swtiching, which is plugging/unplugging cables while one source is on and the other is not. Another issue would be audio lag, which is caused by the internal scaling. The best option is to feed the TV 720p signals only.

5. Would you buy it again or consider other options.

I would definately buy this TV again, since I could see the "screen door effect" on the LCD RP's and plasma was never an option since I'm a heavy gamer. My wife loves the TV (a big plus) and while I can see rainbows when I make an effort to look for them, they aren't a constant problem. The colors are great, the HD picture is stunning (as is 360), and DVD has never looked better. If I was buying again, I would probably pick up the 1080p model, which was a bit expensive when I made my purchase.

Thanks
John

See above...

I totally agree with eengert. This is an HDTV. If your not gonna watch Hi-Def or Movies on an Upscaling dvd player then this TV is not for you. This TV does not play well with standard definition broadcasts.

I agree with the statement about watching hi-def signals - but I don't get the comment about the upscaling dvd player. Why buy a dvd player with a scalar when the tv will do the scaling for you? :confused:

eengert,

I've had my set ISF calibrated (purchased in October '05) and have done some additional SM tweaks. One major one, if you aren't daring enough to turn off the DNIe setting (which I am not) is to adjust the "Actuator Gain" setting. This lowers the sharpness a bit, and as long as you've calibrated sharpness via DVE (usually near zero in the user menu) and have turned off the Digital NR setting in the menu, adjusting the actuator gain will help just enough. I can explain further if anyone would like.

As for the green tint to HD feeds (like "Lost"), that can usually be fixed via grayscale. In having my set calibrated, I was very high on green and had absolutly no blue...but I also didn't have a tint problem (black was still black, just burning hot). I have noticed that the green decoder is very high, and if you have a set of color filters you can see this. Now using red and blue filters I can get the color perfect, but green is still a problem. I can get the right "tint", but there is just too much from the decoder. This is easily seen using DVE, where instead of being pure green and pure black while looking through the green filter, I can plainly see all the color boxes...correspondingly lighter and darker.

I would suggest grayscale calibration at the least, which will give you better detail in the dark scenes. I'm not sure about the index setting, but hopefully MANNA can give some more detail.

Good luck!


Thanks. I'm just getting ready to go in. Two final questions if anyone would care to answer before I do, it would be helpful.

1) Does simply entering the SM reset custom user picture setting to the defaults?

2) Are the changes made in the SM effective across all inputs, or do you have the make SM changes separately for each input?

I agree with the statement about watching hi-def signals - but I don't get the comment about the upscaling dvd player. Why buy a dvd player with a scalar when the tv will do the scaling for you? :confused:

I tried an HD850 DVD player that upscales and noticed no difference. I think if you spring for a high-end upscaling DVD player like the $1500 Denon, it will do a better job than the builtin. Other than that, you're right...just let the TV do the upscaling.

awdorrin: Sorry to be so harsh, just a bit of frustration showing through. You can use a regular progressive dvd player and the tv will upconvert it to 720p and it will look pretty good. I do it with my phillips dvp642 player and it looks surprisingly good. A good upconverting player will look better (uses a better scalar) but it can be a subtle difference that is not picked up on so much when the set is not calibrated or the eye is not too discerning. I should have just restricted my negative comments to SD.

eengert: I think it depends on which dvd player ofcourse and also on how carefully you want to compare various players. It can also vary depending upon whether you use HDMI or Component. I use component and most differences i've seen can be subtle to pick up especially for someone who has not seen alot of top end displays or don't know what to look for. Subtle differences like more detail in black areas or color issues or what have you can stand out during calibration tests that would not normally be noticed without doing side by side viewing. I'm not too familiar with the 850 but i have had the 841 and 941 and they had a bit sharper pictures (via component) when they upconverted to 720p compared to when they put out 480p and let the TV do the upconversion. That doesn't mean that they are better then the 850 because plenty of people have the 850 or 950 and love it. My feeling is if your happy with the picture then stay with it. It's all personal preference and everybody has their own opinion so use your own and decide whats best for you :).

1. How good is the following Amazon deal and is it a standard offer? I am still working on a basement refinish job and do not need a TV for another month.

56" = $2000
61" = $2400


John, I just bought my 6167W (61" DLP) from NiceElectronics (dot) com... I paid $2127 two weeks ago. This week they're selling it for $2069.

I think I paid $269 delivery... right into my livingroom. Ordered it Tuesday and got it the following Wednesday.

niceelectronics (dot) com/Electronics/discr100559.htm

Ask for Herb in sales.

Thanks. I'm just getting ready to go in. Two final questions if anyone would care to answer before I do, it would be helpful.

1) Does simply entering the SM reset custom user picture setting to the defaults?

2) Are the changes made in the SM effective across all inputs, or do you have the make SM changes separately for each input?

1)Going into the SM will reset your user menu settings to "Standard" (Warm 1 color temp, 90 contrast, 50 brightness, 65 sharpness, 50 color). I'm not sure if adjustments IN the service menu are done at "Warm 1" though. Be sure to write your brightness/contrast settings down ahead of time.

2)You will need to adjust EVERY input and resolution (I think). For my set, both component inputs were calibrated at the same time for 720p, HDMI for 720p, and VGA for something close to 720p (1280x720...but the ISF calibrators machine wouldn't do that resolution over VGA). I didn't check any other resolutions since I run all SD content on "stretch", outputting at 720p.

Im not ready to enter the service menu yet at all, and im still debating over switching to the Sony A10 (even though ive heard some negative things about their red problem) ..... I switched DVD players with my Sammy DLP and the fluctuating **** is gone, but its still grainy...... can anyone confirm this with their Sammy DLPs? I mean the image can look really sharp but it overall has this kind of grainy look if you look hard enough, sometimes you dont have to look hard at all to see it.



Id be the happiest if I didnt have to return my Sammy DLP............ I dont see the rainbow effect (will I see this over time?? I cant see it now even If I try to look for it), is there ANY DAMN way to get rid of this grainy look a bit?? The new DVD player helped a lot, but even on some HD content from cable it looks a bit grainy.


Can anyone post any settings or anything theyve done that help with the picture quality?


EDIT>> Im almost at the point of just keeping this set..... but I really have two major issues:

1. the grainy look, low level noise, the new dvd player helped take the fluctuating parts out of the background, now its just a bit grainy.

2. I noticed especially in much lighter scenes the almost crackly bits of white show up.. like a small dot here a small dot there for a split second.. what is this? i dunno its all so frustrating.

Srry for all my stupid questions.

So I'm under the impression that even though my Direct tv box is set to 16:9 I'm still gettn a 4:3 signal ? And this is why everything looks stretched and peoples heads look too big?
And when I get a HD box , I'll still get the stretch effect when I'm watching chanels that are'nt HD yet?

I see people talking about getten there set calibrated. Is this done by a technisian . And If the set needs calibration ,should'nt this be done fr nothen ?

thnx

I finally went into the service menu. Sure enough it did reset my custom picture settings. No big deal there, I had recorded them. It appeared that changing the settings effected all inputs, or at least all inputs. I know someone posted otherwise, but after I made the changes I switched inputs and even to a different resolution and the changes were still there.

I looked through all the menus, but only tweaked Gamma and Index Delay. Took Gamma down from 2 to 1 (this seems to darken the picture) and took Index Delay down from the default of 46 to 42. Both changes were nearly impereptible, but did serve to slightly darken the image (making the blacks blacker). When calibrating the Index Delay, it shows a test pattern at the bottom of the screen so you can see how your changes are effecting the picture. It's a gradient of each of the 5 colors (white, black, red, green, blue). I thought my change might have slightly improved the uniformity of the gradient. Raising it up to 55 or above started to distort the gradient. After making those changes and exiting, I then reset my picture settings (contrast, brightness, etc) in the normal user menus and ended up taking contrast way up to 82. I'm not sure the changes in the SM made too much difference, but the end result is that I'm still quite happy with the images.

Now I'm just waiting for my ADS HDUP1500 upconverter to arrive so I can see what effect it has on my DVD, XBOX, and maybe even DirecTV non-HD 480i/p signals. My hope is that it's a better upscaler than the one builtin to the TV. For the XBOX, I'm hoping the HDUP1500 does a faster conversion from 480p to 720p so that there will be no lag in the video. We'll find out next wednesday. If anyone's interested, I'll report back on my findings. I found a nice deal on it for only $199 after rebate. If anyone wants the link, PM me.

Here it goes on Friday im going to be making my first HD purchase. I happen to work at BB and my discount is very nice on these sets. Im in between the HLR5067w and the 42a10 or the 50a10. I say the 42 because its nearly the same price as the 50 sammy. I would pay the extra money for the 50a10 but im thinking the 42 would be perfect for my space. Id be viewing movies and such from about 8 feet and most of my tv viewing from about 5 feet at my computer. :D Now ive seen both these sets alot as I work there I have compared and read and compared again. The Sammy dont look half bad nor does the Sony. I do like the DLP but it im worried about moving parts and audio sync. The sony does have the SDE and I do see it but im basically right on top of it we just recently set up two 42a10 with a 360 and a ps2 I must say these things like really good on this set. Im so on the fence about this purchase I dont want to wait for the new models I want a TV now. :p Id like to know your guys opinion on this purchase. If you had it to do all over would it be Sony or another model? Let me know what you think.
AVS Greatest HT Forum.

I recently went through a similar puchase decision, comparing the Samsung HLR5067W and the Sony 50A10. After doing several in-store demos I opted for the Samsung. I have no regrets, but now my wife thinks we should have purchased the 56" Samsung <grin>. The picture is absolutely gorgeous when fed a good, clean HD signal. I have the say, the Discovery HD channel is an outstanding demo of what this set can do. And the upscaled DVD signal from my Samsung HD950 looks nearly as good. SD broadcasts are only marginal, as would be expected on nearly every HD set.

After doing some tweaking using the AVIA and another setup DVD, my colors are clean, the detail in the blacks is excellent, and the sharpness blows me away. I'll post my picture settings in a few days. The Samsung image definitely looks better in my home than any I've seen in a store.

Yes, I experience an occasional audo sync problem, usually on local news broadcasts, not yet on DVDs or any of the HD signals. But this is common on nearly all HD sets regardless of manufacturer. I'm considering the Felston unit to overcome this but can't say it's a major aggravation yet.

The Sony A10 forum here indicates the Sonys tend to suffer from major red push and a "green blob" issue. Also, the SDE on the Sony was objectionable to my eyes out to about 10 feet. I do perfer the Sony's cabinet styling, though, and our past 4 TVs have all been Sonys that have lasted 10 years or more.

My recommendation: the Samsung HLR5067W and a good 60 minutes with the Avia optimization disc. I think you'll be happy!


Roger

Ive had my set for a few month now, very happy with it. Can someone help me out with something though.

i have calibrated with I think it was DVE.

In the real dark areas, or solid colors, I don't get a solid image. There appears to be what looks like dot crawl, only the pixels are much bigger. If anyone knows graphic design, its like when you have a very slight gradient, and the display can show the difference in hues in enough detail, so you actually see a chunk of pixels at one hue, then a chunk in another hue. Any idea how to correct this.

Lost is a great example. There are so many shadows throughout lost. None of them are ever very detailed, and appear pixelatted (not a smooth gradient). Then take office for example, when they have cut scenes of the one on ones, the greenish walls are never a solid green. They are always a pixellated gradient of different shades of green.

Any help is really appreciated.

Has anyone tried calibrating the 5067W using the HDNet Test Pattern (usually shows weekly on HDNet ?). I wanted to try it as it's my best method of calibrating the HDMI Input from the DTV Hr10-250. The one thing I noticed is that in order to calibrate the brightness correctly, I had to set it almost 80 which is wayyyyyyy to high compared to some of the other calibration work (Avia) I've done on other inputs. Anybody have any feedback on this ?

What is this Index and what exactly is it affecting? Also, once in the SM, how do you navigate to the Index property?

Do you have any other SM settings that you would recommend? I haven't yet gone into the SM. Partly because I've read that when you do, you lose all your custom settings and it reverts to the factory defaults. But also because I wasn't sure what I would modify. Any suggestions and clarification on the process of entering the SM would be appreciated.

I don't really understand what the Index setting is or what it affects. All I know is that changing it improved my PQ of dark scenes. The best way to see how it affects your PQ is to adjust it while you have a picture displayed on your TV. For more info on Index, read post #1569 (posted by Hi-Rez!) on page 53 of this thread. I don't recall exactly how to navigate to the Index setting off of the top of my head. I'd have to go into the SM again to tell you. Also, I haven't changed any other settings in the SM, so I can't make any other recommendations.

I don't really understand what the Index setting is or what it affects. All I know is that changing it improved my PQ of dark scenes. The best way to see how it affects your PQ is to adjust it while you have a picture displayed on your TV. For more info on Index, read post #1569 (posted by Hi-Rez!) on page 53 of this thread. I don't recall exactly how to navigate to the Index setting off of the top of my head. I'd have to go into the SM again to tell you. Also, I haven't changed any other settings in the SM, so I can't make any other recommendations.
The index setting is your color wheel timing/sync setting. It is set at the factory (but, may not be set correctly). To adjust it put a pure red (and I mean pure red) signal on the screen and adjust until you are in the middle of a range of colors that looks like pure red. As you change the setting either up or down the red will begin to become less pure. Set index right in the middle. Setting index by looking at a normal scene is probably going to just distort your colors.

The index setting is your color wheel timing/sync setting. It is set at the factory (but, may not be set correctly). To adjust it put a pure red (and I mean pure red) signal on the screen and adjust until you are in the middle of a range of colors that looks like pure red. As you change the setting either up or down the red will begin to become less pure. Set index right in the middle. Setting index by looking at a normal scene is probably going to just distort your colors.

Well, I'm pretty darn happy with the picture I'm getting. But I'm always interested in improving if possible. I could use my AVIA DVD to display a red image, but how do I judge when I have reach "pure red"? Maybe I can use the red lens in some way? Also, how does the Color setting in the user menu affect this and does it matter what I have Color (saturation) set at when I enter the SM? Thanks.

I need to get a calibration dvd.... best buy doesnt carry one... and i live in canada.... where the hell can i get one... argh

none of you have a slightly grainy image.. (im using expensive component cables and hdmi)... through dvd and even Hd signals?

I need to get a calibration dvd.... best buy doesnt carry one... and i live in canada.... where the hell can i get one... argh

none of you have a slightly grainy image.. (im using expensive component cables and hdmi)... through dvd and even Hd signals?

Image quality can be pretty subjective. It's hard to compare what I think is good vs. what you think is good. DVD's are not HD quality (yet) so you can't expect them to be. And your HD signal could vary depending on what your source is. I'm just pointing out that it's possible that your problems are the source and not the TV.

That being said, I ordered my AVIA calibration DVD through Amazon. I'm quite pleased with the quality of HD signals and even my DVD's (though they certainly don't compare to HD content). You should definitely make calibrations in the user menus, and you might even want to enter the service menu and adjust Gamma and Index Delay in the first sub-menu. Those both have a direct effect on the PQ. In case you haven't been following, to enter the SM: with TV off, press Mute-1-8-2-Power in quick succession. You may play any image you like from any input behind the SM to use during your calibration. If after calibration you're still not content, return the TV and try something different. If you're going to spend that much money, you better be very pleased with the PQ. I'm happy with mine, but it certainly isn't the only TV out there. Good luck.

thanks i want to find a place that has a calibration disc.... then ill see

The index setting is your color wheel timing/sync setting. It is set at the factory (but, may not be set correctly). To adjust it put a pure red (and I mean pure red) signal on the screen and adjust until you are in the middle of a range of colors that looks like pure red. As you change the setting either up or down the red will begin to become less pure. Set index right in the middle. Setting index by looking at a normal scene is probably going to just distort your colors.

Bless you Bill for continuing to post your knowledge here it's very kind of you and greatly appreciated, I thought you might be gone for good from the 720p forum.

Suffice it to say that posts here in recent days from anyone with even close to what you know are very few and far between.

The best advice I could give to newbies here would be to read EVERY post in this thread by UCSB, he truly knows what he's talking about.

--Don

:D Well after months and months of trying to figure it out, I did it fellas and ladies. I got the 42A10 and for my room size its the most perfect match. I must say im very happy I didnt get the Samsung. Black levels seem very good better than I expected. Now for a few recent asked questions of recent buyers. No stickers and no residue of a sticker ever being there. Made in Mexico and it was made in Jan of 06' thats sweet to me. Some minor adjusments out of box and it seems perfect but im sure to tweak it for optimal viewing. I got a 360 to go with this bad boy and boy oh boy could I be any happier. Well I want to thank you all for your knowledge and suggestions. Now im off to tweak and enjoy thanks all! :)

I have the 5067W and I have a couple questions regarding my new xbox 360 (which is absolutely amazing). My first question is this; Does anyone have the psyclone component cables for the 360 as opposed to the microsoft component cables that come with the system? If so, is the picture quality worth spending another $75, can it be that much better? My second question is, should I set my 360, my cable box (explorer 8300HD) and my uponvert DVD player ( LG LDA-511) to 720p or 1080i? I've heard differing opinions on this and thought maybe someone who has the same TV as me can give me some insight. Thanks in advance for any and all responses.

Sorry about two posts in a row but I had one more question to ask. How can I get rid of "macroblocking" ( I think that's what you call it, when backgrounds on DVD's look like they're painted watercolors that are constantly moving). I watched "Just Like Heaven" with my wife last night ( her choice of movie by the way) and there were a couple of scenes when they're on a roof and it's nighttime and the sky behind them looked abosutely horrible, the "macroblocking ( I really hope that's what it's called) made those scenes unbearable to watch. Even my wife, who doesn't complain about anything commented on how bad the picture was. Can someone please help me.

The index setting is your color wheel timing/sync setting. It is set at the factory (but, may not be set correctly). To adjust it put a pure red (and I mean pure red) signal on the screen and adjust until you are in the middle of a range of colors that looks like pure red. As you change the setting either up or down the red will begin to become less pure. Set index right in the middle. Setting index by looking at a normal scene is probably going to just distort your colors.

Thanks for that information, Bill. Any recommendations where I can find a pure red signal to send to the TV? I have DVE and I don't believe there is a pure red test pattern on that disc. By the way, I calibrated with DVE after changing my Index setting. My red and blue look good, but green is way off (from what I've read on this thread, this is a common problem).

Thanks in advance!

Sorry about two posts in a row but I had one more question to ask. How can I get rid of "macroblocking" ( I think that's what you call it, when backgrounds on DVD's look like they're painted watercolors that are constantly moving). I watched "Just Like Heaven" with my wife last night ( her choice of movie by the way) and there were a couple of scenes when they're on a roof and it's nighttime and the sky behind them looked abosutely horrible, the "macroblocking ( I really hope that's what it's called) made those scenes unbearable to watch. Even my wife, who doesn't complain about anything commented on how bad the picture was. Can someone please help me.



I had the same problem, Im debating about switching to the SONY A10, I still have my Samsung DLP and like I said I had the same problem, I dont know if thats actually macroblocking but I had the problem of some background imagery moving around a bit, exactly what you described, someone mentioned it might be the kind of DVD player you have, I switched DVD players and while the image is still a bit grainy (which im told is what you get when you get a Samsung DLP) there is only a very slight occurance of the old "movement" that we both have annoyance with... so look into that a bit. I myself dont know too much about these matters, but I did switch DVD players and it made a big difference.

Theres something in some of the newer HDupconversion DVD players that doesnt jive well with the Samsung DLPs... so I switched to a different brand name DVD player that doesnt have this type of technology in it, so the two pieces (the TV and the DVD player) now interact with eachother a lot better and I hardly get any "movement" like I did before.

Im still waiting to see someone post some settings for their DLP.... without service menu tweaks.. just regular settings?

Hi:
...But you get everything else the larger sets (46inch on up) have....same resolution, ...

Good luck!

I just bought the 66w. One of the differences that I read btw it and the 67 is that the 67w and higher models have super fine resolution whereas the 66 only has fine resolution. Super bowl never looked better on mine!!

Brett

I have a question about the 4266w and the 4667w. I realize the differences between these two tvs, but are there any image quality differences between them(that are actually observable, not bs on paper)? thank you.

TJ, we went with the 66w due to size of room and have been pleased w/ the image quality. We looked at various TVs at various stores and did not think that the image quality suffered from lower resolution. Paraphrasing from another post," If you can't see the difference, then save your money and buy the cheaper unit".

Brett

Im still waiting to see someone post some settings for their DLP.... without service menu tweaks.. just regular settings?

Movie Mode
Contrast=85
Brightness=50
Sharpness=40
Color=50

Standard Mode
Contrast=75
Brightness=54
Sharpness=45
Color=54

FYI - My Index setting in the SM was changed from 50 to 42 prior to calibrating with DVE.

Thanks... ill check those out with the next movie I watch. ;)

Thanks for that information, Bill. Any recommendations where I can find a pure red signal to send to the TV? I have DVE and I don't believe there is a pure red test pattern on that disc. By the way, I calibrated with DVE after changing my Index setting. My red and blue look good, but green is way off (from what I've read on this thread, this is a common problem).

Thanks in advance!
Your DVD player will probably display photos. Just create a 100% red image on your computer and write it to a DVD. Display it and try readjusting. Then check your green performance.

A couple questions. About a month ago my HDMI input stopped working. Turns out that it's the digital board, which will need to be replaced. Here are my questions though:

1)Does anyone know why the digital boards aren't available for this set? Both repair shops have said that the part is on indeterminate backorder, meaning I could be w/o HDMI for a lot longer. I've been told it's a common problem, so why the hell isn't the part available? It's a reasonably new model TV?

2)How could this have happened? My HDMI was fine for two months, and then 17 minutes into "The Godfather Part II" the picture starts blinking and then gone. I proceed to get the "No Signal or Weak Signal" message.

3)Can someone with a service manual please tell me what the "DMD ->-> Digital" or "Digital ->-> DMD" settings do in the bottom SM option? It looks like it might swap the digital board input, which I'd be willing to try, but want to make sure exactly what the setting will do.

Hopefully I can get this damn input fixed, since I picked up a 2-1 HDMI switch so that I can run my upconverting DVD and HD cable through HDMI. The lag on 480p is unbearable so I haven't been watching my DVD collection, which really blows since I've picked up several new movies. I also prefer the sharper picture that HDMI provides.

Please HL-R5067W gurus...help me out!

Best Buy has the Bush TV Stand - Black Oak Model: VS42936-02 on sale. The only thing that makes me a tad nervous is this: Black oak veneer on fiberboard. However, it says it can support flat-panel TVs up to 60", weighing up to 154 lbs. My Sammy HL-R5067W manual says it weighs 72 pounds so am I overreacting to the veneer over fiberboard?

Does anyone have this stand?

http://heh.pl/&2Hj

I bought a glass shelf from CC and much prefer the one at BB for wire manangement (not seeing the mess ;) ) and the glass doors. CC will pick it up the other one for free.

Edit: Searching the forums turned up little and my chief concern is developing an issue similar to the Ameriwood stand issues.