Well, this is probably going to sound like a dramatic reversal. I know I have said that I'm very pleased with the PQ on the 5067. But recently, I began noticing some artifacts even on HD broadcasts. It makes the pixels in the background look they're moving around. It's not terrible, but it's noticeable to me now. I could live with this TV and probably be relatively content. But I think that since this is my first experience with HDTV, over the past 10 days I've gotten past the initial amazement and started to be a little more critical. And while I'm working on a bit of a budget, I want to really be happy with the quality and know that I have a TV that I'll be happy with for at least 3-5+ years. I've spent a lot of time adjusting settings using various images including the AVIA calibration DVD. I've even been in the service menu to tweak Index Delay and Gamma. I've decided that while it does produce a pretty good HD image for a DLP, there were enough things that I felt could be improved upon (including the delay when playing XBOX) to warrant some further research to consider an exchange while I was still within the return timeframe.

So, I did just that. I thought I was going to make the leap to Plasma after discovering that longevity has greatly increased for that technology. But when I went to CC to check things out, I wasn't overly impressed with the plasmas under $3000. After spending some time comparing and discussing options with the sales rep, he suggested taking a peek at the Sony 50" SXRD (rear projection). Wow! Since I never plan to hang my TV, projection was still an option. I wasn't looking at plasma for it's depth (thought that's kind of nice to have a thin set) but more for the PQ. But this SXRD blew everything else in the store away, as far as I could tell. It's a 1080p set and has an abundance of inputs. The image was unbelievable - better than all plasmas I saw, if you can believe it. And it was only $150 more than the 50" Zenith plasma I was strongly considering. It ended up being about $1100 more than the 5067, but like I said, I want to be really happy with such a large purchase. So I got it. Not in the house yet, but will be tomorrow or the next day. If anyone is interested, I'm willing to provide comparisons. I won't unless requested since I think that would be outside the scope of this particular thread.

The 5067 seems like a decent set, but it didn't quite suite all of my requirements (gaming being one of them). I only post all this to share my experience for what it may be worth to anyone. My intention is not to put down the Samsungs. They are certainly a good bargain. But for me, spending $1000 more was an option that I decided was worth it. Good luck to all of you, and thanks for the information you've provided.

Well, this is probably going to sound like a dramatic reversal. I know I have said that I'm very pleased with the PQ on the 5067. But recently, I began noticing some artifacts even on HD broadcasts. It makes the pixels in the background look they're moving around. It's not terrible, but it's noticeable to me now. I could live with this TV and probably be relatively content. But I think that since this is my first experience with HDTV, over the past 10 days I've gotten past the initial amazement and started to be a little more critical.


Thats my feelings as well my friend, I got my TV was like "WOW" but then after watching some HD content on TV and a few movies I saw what you saw.... and experienced what you did, dissapointment that the image is too grainy... and the background has some low level noise that kinda bothers me - and now I just look for it when watching the set.... I too am switching Tvs I think. Im gonna give it some more time.

Help, I need some advise please.

Watching Directv using an H20 box, connected through TV's HDMI input, and I had a picture failure. I got green static, then the picture with green lines in it with a green tint, then nothing, then green static, etc. The problem only occurs on the HDMI input, the component and s-video inputs work fine and the picture is fine. I first assumed it was my H20 box, but I happen to have another one, so I swapped them, and the TV did the same thing. It can't be the sat signal, because my 3 other tvs work fine, and my standard def R15 tivo box works on the TV fine through the S-Video.

Then I thought it was a bad HDMI cable (even though I spent $200 on it). I took it to Best Buy, and they confirmed the cable works. So, must be the TV. Best Buy is replacing the TV for me tomorrow (I was within my 30 day window to exchange). My questions are these:

1. Has anyone had a TV fail but only on one input? How can this be possible?

2. Even though my H20 works fine through component, could it have done something to my TV through the HDMI input, should I replace that box with Directv to be safe?

3. Even though the HDMI cable appears to work, should I replace it anyway, as a precaution?

This has clearly freaked me out. I just don't understand how the TV's HDMI input could fail, while everything else works fine. Any thoughts any of you have would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

i doubt the hdmi cable would effect it... .especially if they said that wasnt defective... i dont see how that could be a factor.... your tv was probably just poorly built for whatever reason and the input failed.

Hey jaberman, read my post. I have the same problem. I'm now finding that the digital board (which takes the HDMI signal) is backordered with no date for when they will be available. I'm going on my second month without my HDMI, and it's pissing me the **** off! Samsung won't do **** since they "claim" they can't take action until the service center says that the set is unrepairable...which it isn't since it's just a simple board problem.

Hopefully someone can address my questions a few posts back!

When I go into the SM its lists the COMP as the input. Can I hit the Source button to change the input in the SM? Or does it default to the input it was on when it was powered down?

I had it on HDMI when I powered down and my HDMI DVD player was on when I went into the SM. However after the Factory Loading went on and then away, the SM never appeared. I waited a while, powered down, and when I turned it back on, no menu functions appeared at all. I could change inputs but they didn't show up either (the picture was fine, just no menus available). I powered down the set, unplugged it and waited a minute, then plugged in and powered on . Fortunately everything was fine. I've been in the SM a few times with no problems so I don't think I did anything different. It's spooked me a bit from going back in.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Has anyone taken advantage of the Samsung "Go for two" offer? (For those unfamiliar, anyone buying several models of Samsung TV's between Nov 1, 05 and Feb 5, 06 can get a Samsung DVDR120 and a Super Bowl highlights DVD for free via mail.)

I was preparing to send in the rebate today and I am not quite sure what they want for the 'Original UPC symbol' from the TV. On the outside of the TV box there is a rather large sticker (9.5"x4.5") that wraps around the corner of the box. This sticker has four barcodes; two on each side of the box. One of the barcode types is a standard UPC symbol, the other appears to be the serial number, with some additional characters. - Now one of the UPC codes actually appears to be a sticker which can be peeled off of the main label.

So I'm a little confused - technically I would think that I could just peel off the UPC symbol itself; but I'd hate for them to reject the rebate if they realy meant the entire label including all 4 barcodes and all other related text.

I searched the AVSforum (and even googled) and couldn't find any discussions about this... (so maybe I'm just over analyzing things.) :-)

Thanks!

- Al

When I go into the SM its lists the COMP as the input. Can I hit the Source button to change the input in the SM? Or does it default to the input it was on when it was powered down?

I had it on HDMI when I powered down and my HDMI DVD player was on when I went into the SM. However after the Factory Loading went on and then away, the SM never appeared. I waited a while, powered down, and when I turned it back on, no menu functions appeared at all. I could change inputs but they didn't show up either (the picture was fine, just no menus available). I powered down the set, unplugged it and waited a minute, then plugged in and powered on . Fortunately everything was fine. I've been in the SM a few times with no problems so I don't think I did anything different. It's spooked me a bit from going back in.

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Yes you can hit "Source" to change inputs. It won't cause a problem.

Now can someone with the service manual please help me? Or anyone with additional knowledge on these sets? Thanks!

If anyone wants to buy a brand new replacement lamp for the 67 series, I have one that I don't need anymore since I returned the TV (I had already bought a backup lamp). Haven't even opened the shipping box. PM me if you're interested. I'll wait a few days before I put it on ebay.

BTW, in the 5 hours I've had my new 50" SXRD, I'm very impressed. I'm sure I'll tweak some more here and there, but the PQ is outstanding.

I went into the service menu and also lowered my index to 42. I then powered off the tv, turned it back on and made some changes to the brightness/contrast/sharpness/color settings and i can honestly say that the wierd "Clay Face" image quality issue reported with these sets is not noticable anymore. Also fixed the color banding that sometimes happenes when watching dark scenes. Im truly happy with the picture quality now! Thanks guys for all your research, and thanks for posting on this site!

If anyone wants to buy a brand new replacement lamp for the 67 series, I have one that I don't need anymore since I returned the TV (I had already bought a backup lamp). Haven't even opened the shipping box. PM me if you're interested. I'll wait a few days before I put it on ebay.

BTW, in the 5 hours I've had my new 50" SXRD, I'm very impressed. I'm sure I'll tweak some more here and there, but the PQ is outstanding.

I am interested in the lamp. How much do you want for it?

I went into the service menu and also lowered my index to 42. I then powered off the tv, turned it back on and made some changes to the brightness/contrast/sharpness/color settings and i can honestly say that the wierd "Clay Face" image quality issue reported with these sets is not noticable anymore. Also fixed the color banding that sometimes happenes when watching dark scenes. Im truly happy with the picture quality now! Thanks guys for all your research, and thanks for posting on this site!


Can you post your settings so I can try them out on my TV and see if they make a difference? Thanks.

Can you post your settings so I can try them out on my TV and see if they make a difference? Thanks.

Sure. Im at work now, but will post as soon as i get home.

I've decided I'm going to continue to fight with Samsung over my TV. Even if the adjustments make a difference I don't think it will look as good as my HLP. The fact that I can't turn off Dnle, there is even worse audio sync, and now i see the pincushion effect with 4:3 material is unacceptable. I've decided to write to the CEO and see if I can get it resolved that way. I have done that one other time and was able to get a full refund on my Gateway computer after a year and a half. I either want a full refund or an upgrade to one of their 1080P sets which supposedly has a better picture (input on the 1080P model is welcome). Hopefully I can get some kind of resolution.

I had my screen replaced for the smudge problem, and now it's worse than ever. The company that took my tv to their shop layed the tv on the screen transporting it. It's got black flecks in the screen layers that you can see with the tv off. It also looks like they didn't clean the cleaner off the screen when they put the two layers together. I have a 3 inch wide streak across the bottom of the screen and also numerous marks all over the screen. I also think my light engine is slightly cockeyed because the picture looks a bit slanted to the right by a hair.They also put some small scratches on the bezel and looks like they may have put a small crack in the speaker bar. I called Samsung and they have been great for customer support.

They sent the info to another servicer in Cincinnati to contact me about fixing it. Well they called this morning and told me they don't come to Dayton. I'm bummed. I have to call Samsung tonight and see what they can do for me. I'm reluctant to have the original service co. out to redo it, and I will not let them transport the tv anywhere again. I'll keep you posted.

Aaron

I went into the service menu and also lowered my index to 42. I then powered off the tv, turned it back on and made some changes to the brightness/contrast/sharpness/color settings and i can honestly say that the wierd "Clay Face" image quality issue reported with these sets is not noticable anymore. Also fixed the color banding that sometimes happenes when watching dark scenes. Im truly happy with the picture quality now! Thanks guys for all your research, and thanks for posting on this site!

I'm glad to hear that someone else was able to get similar, positive results from making an adjustment to the Index setting! I still have to try Bill's suggestion, though, with the red input signal to really dial in the Index setting.

Can you post your settings so I can try them out on my TV and see if they make a difference? Thanks.
Read my post (#2061) on page 69 for my Movie Mode and Standard Mode settings.

Has anyone taken advantage of the Samsung "Go for two" offer? (For those unfamiliar, anyone buying several models of Samsung TV's between Nov 1, 05 and Feb 5, 06 can get a Samsung DVDR120 and a Super Bowl highlights DVD for free via mail.)

I sent it in with 'half' of the sticker that wraps around the corner of the shipping box. I applied at 'checkmyrebate(dot)com' first, then sent it in. I haven't tossed the crate yet. As soon as I get an indication that they received the paperwork and ship the DVD burner I'll trash it. :)

I sent it in with 'half' of the sticker that wraps around the corner of the shipping box. I applied at 'checkmyrebate(dot)com' first, then sent it in. I haven't tossed the crate yet. As soon as I get an indication that they received the paperwork and ship the DVD burner I'll trash it. :)

Thanks, thats what I plan on doing as well. I noticed an 800 number on the rebate form so gave it a call yesterday. The CSR first told me 'all you need is the UPC barcode'. When I told her thanks for clarifying, since I wasn't sure due to the multiple barcodes she then said something to the effect of 'yeah, all we need to see is the UPC barcode along with the text that says the model number'.

Thats when I figured I'd play it safe and just send in one half of the sticker - haha.
I was just a little nervous about sending in both barcodes since the second barcode includes the serial number - but I registered the TV at Samsung's website with the serial number, so I now figure, whats the risk?

Still a little surprised they are offering a $149 DVD-Recorder for free, even if it is last year's model.

I am interested in the lamp. How much do you want for it?

Check your PM.

I've had my HL-R4266W for about a month now and I'd like to go into the SM to make a few adjustments. I've seen bits and pieces of info about using the SM around here, but I just had a few questions before I proceed.

I know that I can cause major problems if I don't know what I'm doing in the service menu and that I should make a record of all of my settings before changing anything. Are these problems related to display and menu functionality or can I cause any sort of physical damage to the set by changing settings in the SM.

Also, for clarification, what is the proper way to navigate the SM to make adjustments but without inadvertently changing things?

Finally, I'm a little leary of powering my set off and back on immediately without letting the lamp cool down for at least 45 minutes or so, but I do recall reading somewhere that powering back on within 30 seconds of powering off is fine. Is the 30 second window for powering on and off ok? Thanks in advance for any advice.

Still a little surprised they are offering a $149 DVD-Recorder for free, even if it is last year's model.

Well I'm looking forward to it. I've heard good things and some bad things about it... more good than bad I think. There's a thread here somewhere about updating the ROM for it once you get it.... download the upgrade to a DVD, put it in and let it run.

If nothing else, it'll tide me over til I get an HD=TIVO and I'll be able to transfer all my old videos to DVD now.

I've had my HL-R4266W for about a month now and I'd like to go into the SM to make a few adjustments. I've seen bits and pieces of info about using the SM around here, but I just had a few questions before I proceed.

I know that I can cause major problems if I don't know what I'm doing in the service menu and that I should make a record of all of my settings before changing anything. Are these problems related to display and menu functionality or can I cause any sort of physical damage to the set by changing settings in the SM.

Also, for clarification, what is the proper way to navigate the SM to make adjustments but without inadvertently changing things?

Finally, I'm a little leary of powering my set off and back on immediately without letting the lamp cool down for at least 45 minutes or so, but I do recall reading somewhere that powering back on within 30 seconds of powering off is fine. Is the 30 second window for powering on and off ok? Thanks in advance for any advice.

You're not going to change anything that you can't change back. No physical damage will result from anything you change. Use up and down arrows to get where you want. Use "Enter" to select. Use left and right arrows to change values. Use "Menu" to return to a previous menu screen. Power off to get out then power back on instantly and the lamp never even dims. It's safe!

Hi everyone.

I thought I would add my personal experiences with the "Smudge" problem some people are seeing with this model TV. Well, I noticed it on my screen soon after getting everything hooked up. I did lots of reading online (here and other places) to try and find more about this problem. I finally decided to give Samsung a call to report it. Well, the next day, a repair tech was out to my house to replace the screen with a new 2-piece screen. An hour later, everything is absolutely perfect. No more smudge marks and the screen image is crystal clear.

I just wanted to make sure that both negative AND positive comments are made here about this problem and Samsung's support.

Steve

Hi everyone.

I thought I would add my personal experiences with the "Smudge" problem some people are seeing with this model TV. Well, I noticed it on my screen soon after getting everything hooked up. I did lots of reading online (here and other places) to try and find more about this problem. I finally decided to give Samsung a call to report it. Well, the next day, a repair tech was out to my house to replace the screen with a new 2-piece screen. An hour later, everything is absolutely perfect. No more smudge marks and the screen image is crystal clear.

I just wanted to make sure that both negative AND positive comments are made here about this problem and Samsung's support.

Steve

I just gor an R4266W on Friday. I did some searching and hoping that the "smudge" problem you describe is happening to me:

I see a small grayish dot about 1.5" from the top of the screen, and centered from the sides. If viewing straight on it's there, and from the side it seems to dissapear.

Is this a "smudge"?


Thanks in advance.


Ken

Hi Everyone,

A few months back I purchased an HLR4667w and I would like to make some remarks about my setup and see if anyone has suggestions. I want to make sure I am maximizing my equipment's abilities:

- Setup:
Samsung HLR4667W
Directv H20 (connected to TV with Belkin HDMI)
OTA Antennae (going through H20)
Yamaha AV Receiver HTR5280 (connected to H20 via Monster optical audio)

- Viewing Distance: 10 feet

- Using *Dynamic* Picture mode
Contrast: 98
Brightness: 60
Sharpness: 60
Color: 53
Color tone: Normal
Color Weakness: Green - 1
Digital NR: Off

It seems like my most constant struggle is with overall brightness. Typically, HBO HD, OTA Primetime HD broadcasts (ie sitcoms), and standard definition broadcasts are on the dark side. On the flip side, live HD sports events seem just about right. It appears that when I attempt to change contrast, brightness, etc for shows that lean to the dark side, small setting changes are quite drastic and there is no happy middle ground. If the brightness appears good (let's say the olympics via OTA) I can manipulate the various settings and there isn't a dramatic swing.

I find myself constantly bumping up the brightness to accommodate the overall picture, but the next thing I know I am washing out the picture. Today I went into the service menu and I changed gamma from 2 to 0. I also changed the index delay from 48 to 42. I am trying to digest the changes and see if it's an improvement. It seems the setting have further darkened the overall picture.

I also feel more and more that Directv's HD signal is quite soft. I've read for hours about compression and so forth and know that this is going to be an ongoing struggle. Sometimes programming really pops and other times it's quite drab. Maybe I am becoming a little desensitized to HD?!?!?

Like many, I notice audio lag ... American Chopper and other Discovery HD programming seems to have the worst problem. Not sure if this tv is the culprit or Directv and/or Discovery are the root of the problem.

Sorry for covering such a spectrum of issues. My main "beef" is just finding a happy medium for my picture settings. I feel like even if I had a professional come in and calibrate my set, I'd still have issues due to the high discrepancy of quality (and brightness) from channel to channel.

Thanks,
Rob

Hi Everyone,

A few months back I purchased an HLR4667w and I would like to make some remarks about my setup and see if anyone has suggestions. I want to make sure I am maximizing my equipment's abilities:

- Setup:
Samsung HLR4667W
Directv H20 (connected to TV with Belkin HDMI)
OTA Antennae (going through H20)
Yamaha AV Receiver HTR5280 (connected to H20 via Monster optical audio)

- Using *Dynamic* Picture mode

It seems like my most constant struggle is with overall brightness.

I find myself constantly bumping up the brightness to accommodate the overall picture, but the next thing I know I am washing out the picture. Today I went into the service menu and I changed gamma from 2 to 0. I also changed the index delay from 48 to 42. I am trying to digest the changes and see if it's an improvement. It seems the setting have further darkened the overall picture.

Sorry for covering such a spectrum of issues. My main "beef" is just finding a happy medium for my picture settings. I feel like even if I had a professional come in and calibrate my set, I'd still have issues due to the high discrepancy of quality (and brightness) from channel to channel.

Thanks,
Rob
Rob,

It sounds to me that your preference is to have a very bright picture (which the Dynamic mode will definitely give you compared to the others). I believe I have read somewhere on this thread that you will reduce the life of your bulb if you use the Dynamic picture mode as your normal, everyday viewing mode (can anyone comment as to whether or not this is a valid statement?). FWIW, if you try doing a calibration on your own using a calibration disc like DVE, they suggest you set your picture mode to Movie (or something similar).

As for your SM tweaks, I'm not sure what else the Gamma affects, but a lower setting definitely darkens the picture. You might want to put Gamma back to 2 if you're looking for a brighter picture. I don't think Index has much effect on brightness.

Before I go out and buy one, will I notice a difference in picture if I pick up an upconverting dvd player for less than $150 or so? Will it be much better than a regular progressive scan player?

Thanks much for the responses (keep them coming!). It's not that I prefer a very bright picture, it's that when the picture is darker it looses its "pop" and it becomes very difficult in terms of viewing. I've thought from day 1 that this tv leans to the dark side .... we'll just name it Vader for future reference. :-)

Thanks, thats what I plan on doing as well.


My 'checkmyrebate (dot) com' entry now says they have received my paperwork and it would be 6-8 weeks for delivery. Hope its faster than that. :)

Anyway, the one half of the lable with the S/N on it apparently was good enough.

Can't wait til it gets here.

I have a 3 week old HL-R5067W.
Lots of tvgos problems (in another thread).
I have had 2 cable cards installed and both have the same problem.
I get lots of HD channels OK, but ESPN HD has a problem.
Audio is fine, video is a blank black screen.
Samsung is blaming Comcast & the Cable card.
Comcast is blaming the TV.
Anyone else seen this?

I think I am going to exchange the TV anyway because when in 4x3 mode, the black bars on the side make the picture bow in the middle. Like an hour glass. About 5/16 of an inch differenc from bottom to middle and a noticable bow in the glass when viewed from the side.

Are dark scenes very greenish on your TV? It seems this TV has error in decoding green color. :(

I have been reading this thread for months, as I save up for my first Big screen TV. At times I feel very confident about my choice to purchase this TV next month, but other times I am quite worried that it may be a bad decision.

This thread is riddled with horror stories about black splotches, audio lag, etc. As owners, do you feel that these are isolated incidences that are concentrated in this thread and thus appear to be common problems? I will be purchasing a TV very soon, but $1800 is a lot to me, and just want make sure that it is unlikely that I will have these problems.

The audio lag is not a big issue as I will just purchace a felston.

Any reassurance or warnings would be appreciated.

I have been reading this thread for months, as I save up for my first Big screen TV. At times I feel very confident about my choice to purchase this TV next month, but other times I am quite worried that it may be a bad decision.

This thread is riddled with horror stories about black splotches, audio lag, etc. As owners, do you feel that these are isolated incidences that are concentrated in this thread and thus appear to be common problems? I will be purchasing a TV very soon, but $1800 is a lot to me, and just want make sure that it is unlikely that I will have these problems.

The audio lag is not a big issue as I will just purchace a felston.

Any reassurance or warnings would be appreciated.

Sometimes getting addicted to this forum can be a bad thing! Go to the store...look at the tv...buy it if you like it. I had two of the LG DLP's and one of the Toshiba DLP's before getting a set that didn't have any problems. The set I got was the HLR5067W and I have been in love with it ever since. Go buy the TV already! Not only that, but if you buy from a good retailer you have no worries anyway!

I have been reading this thread for months, as I save up for my first Big screen TV. At times I feel very confident about my choice to purchase this TV next month, but other times I am quite worried that it may be a bad decision.

This thread is riddled with horror stories about black splotches, audio lag, etc. As owners, do you feel that these are isolated incidences that are concentrated in this thread and thus appear to be common problems? I will be purchasing a TV very soon, but $1800 is a lot to me, and just want make sure that it is unlikely that I will have these problems.

The audio lag is not a big issue as I will just purchace a felston.

Any reassurance or warnings would be appreciated.

Well I exchanged my Samsung DLP.... lots of people had complaints.... lots of people liked it too.... like most HDTVs. Although this one does seem to have many more complaints in its topic on here than some others. I exchanged mine because I wasnt happy with the picture quality, at all. From the night I got it home and unpacked it, with a upconversion DVD player, HDMI cables, High Defenition cable box.... with the most expensive component cables runnint to the TV.... still it didnt look nearly as good as I thought it would have (I know now its not a good idea to get your hopes up about TVs haha) - in the end I exchanged it because even on HD channels over the cable box it had a grainy image and it just bothered me way too much, HD channels werent nearly as stunning as they should be and it was kind of a smoother look to it instead of a nice crisp sharp image, it was a smooth grainy image, which I totally didnt want from my TV - I wanted the sharp clear non-grainy image.... .frustrating as it was I packed it all up less than a week later and exchanged it for something different.

Youll see lots of people are happy with theirs, but like I said there are also a lot of problems with this set too from what I read after exchanging it. Should have reada more before actually making the 1st choice. Oh well, no harm done. Its subjective too - you have to understand some people like the Cinematic smooth look..... grainy or not, I however do not. I could notice the graininess on everything I watched, it just bothered me way too much. I never saw the Rainbow effect (even when I looked for it specifically), and I had no lag issues which others have had problems with, like with games and audio... so I dont know, really take the time to read through the topics, find TVs in similar price range and look through those topics.... do as much research as possible, there are other choices out there, but hey maybe your like some people and youd love this TV. I however did not. I wanted to.... hahah but it bothered me. Just shop somewhere that has a return/exchange policy so if you dont like it for whatever reason you can switch!

Not to offend anyone, but I think "HD" over cable sucks. I have looked at both and OTA (if you can get it) is far superior to any "HD" that I have seen from the satellite people or the cable folks. I also forgot to mention I have had none of the problems mentioned above. I also do not experience the lag with the video games that some people mention or the audio lag. This is a great set for some folks and not so great for others. Lately, I have just found myself over analyzing some of my purchases (bought a Panasonic AE900 last week that I almost didn't buy because of posts on this forum) and they turn out to be great products. This forum is the best in the world for AV stuff, but really it all comes down to seeing something or hearing something in your own environment with your own eyes and ears. Sorry people - I am done being lame now. :)

MANNAXMAN said:
I believe I have read somewhere on this thread that you will reduce the life of your bulb if you use the Dynamic picture mode as your normal, everyday viewing mode (can anyone comment as to whether or not this is a valid statement?).I have a Sammy HLN507W which I leave set in Dynamic mode all the time. I polled my family using various programs and found everyone likes that mode the best — as do I. (For example, the exaggerated hues on CSI: Miami can really knock your socks off.)

The lamp burns just as brightly in any mode — even when the Sammy's trying to display a totally black screen. That comment you read somewhere surely applies to CRT-based projectors, and may also apply to LCDs (I dunno); but it certainly does not apply to DLPs. Plasmas have a million or more tiny bulbs, which may burn out faster if made to burn brighter; again, I dunno.

I have a Sammy HLN507W which I leave set in Dynamic mode all the time. I polled my family using various programs and found everyone likes that mode the best — as do I. (For example, the exaggerated hues on CSI: Miami can really knock your socks off.)

The lamp burns just as brightly in any mode — even when the Sammy's trying to display a totally black screen. That comment you read somewhere surely applies to CRT-based projectors, and may also apply to LCDs (I dunno); but it certainly does not apply to DLPs. Plasmas have a million or more tiny bulbs, which may burn out faster if made to burn brighter; again, I dunno.

What MANNAXMAN said is totally true. And that's Samsung's answer in FAQ about DLP TV on their website. Here it is if you couldn't find it

"Note: If using the dynamic setting in the picture mode of the menu, this can affect the life of the bulb. When using the dynamic setting the 100 watt bulb operates at 120 watts causing the picture to look brighter. This will shorten the life of the bulb by about 2,000 hours."

I have been reading this thread for months, as I save up for my first Big screen TV. At times I feel very confident about my choice to purchase this TV next month, but other times I am quite worried that it may be a bad decision.

This thread is riddled with horror stories about black splotches, audio lag, etc. As owners, do you feel that these are isolated incidences that are concentrated in this thread and thus appear to be common problems? I will be purchasing a TV very soon, but $1800 is a lot to me, and just want make sure that it is unlikely that I will have these problems.

The audio lag is not a big issue as I will just purchace a felston.

Any reassurance or warnings would be appreciated.

Had my 5667W for about 8 months now. I have not had smudges, I don't really notice much of a bowing when watching 4:3, I finally got TVGOS working, I have been extremely pleased with my set. I did get an extended warrenty from where I got it(it was half off) though, after reading all the stuff that CAN happen on these things.

I see rainbows, but just don't think about them, and I never notice them anymore.


I don't have a cable card, I just use a 6412 DVR box. That does make things a little less complicated. Watching just the networks in HD when recording 2 HD shows on the DVR is good enough for me.

There is a big TVGOS thread which explained a lot to me on how it gets the data and everything, and I fixed mine w/ the info from that thread.

PM me if there is anything more you need to know, but I for one have had a very positive experience w/ my 5667.

I have been reading this thread for months, as I save up for my first Big screen TV. At times I feel very confident about my choice to purchase this TV next month, but other times I am quite worried that it may be a bad decision.

This thread is riddled with horror stories about black splotches, audio lag, etc. As owners, do you feel that these are isolated incidences that are concentrated in this thread and thus appear to be common problems? I will be purchasing a TV very soon, but $1800 is a lot to me, and just want make sure that it is unlikely that I will have these problems.

The audio lag is not a big issue as I will just purchace a felston.

Any reassurance or warnings would be appreciated.

As you can see, experiences range widely! I have had my 5067 for 6 weeks and I love it. I combed the net obsessively for 6 months prior to my purchase and I haven't regretted it a bit. For the money (I spent in the same neighborhood you mentioned) I can't imagine getting anything better. I have seen no rainbows, the viewing angles are very reasonable given DLP technology and audio lag has happened twice. I have no reservations whatsoever in recommending this TV based on my experience. Good Luck ;)

I've had my HL-R5067W for 4 weeks now and I promised earlier I'd report back on my settings and experience.

I'm viewing using a Samsung HD950 upconverting DVD player via HDMI and a Brighthouse Networks PACE DC551PF HD digital cable box via component connections. I haven't yet tried reversing these two but may in the future. Audio is sent directly to a Sony STR-DE885 receiver through optical (DVD) and digital coax (Cable) connections. My speakers are Paradigm Monitor 5s (L + R), a Cambridge Soundworks CenterStage, Cambridge Soundworks dipolar rear speakers, and an SVS 20-39 PCi subwoofer. I don't do games or PC connections.

Regular viewing is in a semi-darkened room with some ambient lighting. We typically sit about 11' from the screen, and the set is on a 20" high stand which places the center of the screen just a couple inches above eye level.

After setting up the set manually first, and then with two set up discs, the AVIA and one from Discwasher (I relied more heavily on the AVIA) I've determined these picture settings provide the most accurate and watchable image from both DVDs and cable signals in my environment:

Picture Mode: Standard
Contrast: 65
Brightness: 55
Sharpness: 40
Color: 40
Colortone: Normal

The Color setting should actually be closer to 35-36 but I prefer a little extra saturation as long as there's no blooming. No other picture adjustments are set on the 5067W.

The Samsung HD950 is set for 720P and also has PQ settings which I've set as follows:

Brightness 4
Sharpness 4
Color 3

DVD images tend to be less "defined" than HD broadcasts so they benefit from the moderate boost in brightness and sharpness.

The AVIA disc indicates a minute amount of pincushion distortion at the top and right side but it’s not evident on normal video content. SD broadcasts show greater evidence of this but that is typical of RP displays.

Neither my wife or I have yet to see “rainbows”, the single biggest complaint some people have about DLP technology. Maybe we’re either blessed or cursed with “slow eyes”, but this has not been a problem for either of us. And there’s no “screen door effect” which was very pronounced with the Sony KDF-E50A10 I was also considering.

I’ve detected an occasional audio/video lag but only rarely and only on certain programs. A couple local news broadcasts seem to be the worst for this, and I've yet to experience it with any DVDs I've watched. If it gets too noticeable I'll check into getting the Felston DD540 Audio Delay since my current receiver has no adjustable delay settings.

With this HD set, and no doubt with any other, the quality of the source really determines how good the picture quality will be. All in all, I see vivid but very neutral colors, great contrast range with good shadow detail, and excellent sharpness, especially on good HD signals. And everything I've watched looks better after doing the tweaking using the setup discs. I have to say this set's picture looks much better than that of any manufacturer's HD set I've viewed in any store. I'm blown away every time I walk into the room if one of several HD channels is on.

I'm very pleased with my purchase decision, the price ($1850 delivered) and after living with it for awhile, the outstanding picture quality. I hope the Samsung's HL-R5067W’s reliability proves to be as excellent as its image quality.


Roger

Thanks for the information, but how are your eyes? 11" is pretty close!

I need glasses at 8 or 9 feet, but I love getting as close as 5' from my HLN507W so that I can take off those damn hazy plastic lenses. ;)

Hi, I just received my 56 not too long ago. Still in the process of setting it up and calibrating it. This site and thread is very helpful. My question is, when I turn on the tv there is a buzzing sound coming from the set and goes away after a few seconds. The buzzing happens again when I turn off the tv, it's kinda loud. I just want to make sure that the buzzing is normal. Still new to the set so I can't elaborate more. Great site. Thanks, Steve

As you can see, experiences range widely! I have had my 5067 for 6 weeks and I love it. I combed the net obsessively for 6 months prior to my purchase and I haven't regretted it a bit. For the money (I spent in the same neighborhood you mentioned) I can't imagine getting anything better. I have seen no rainbows, the viewing angles are very reasonable given DLP technology and audio lag has happened twice. I have no reservations whatsoever in recommending this TV based on my experience. Good Luck ;)

I own a 4667W and read about every post in this thread prior to buying it. I am not expert but here is my take on things for what its worth. FYI - audio is thru a ONKYO 7.1 receiver, viewing distance is about 10-12 feet, and the set was calibrated with a DVE (?) disc. I have a JVC progressive scan, but not upconverting DVD. I tweaked the gamma to 1 and index to 46 in the SM. Please take or leave these observations, just my opinion.

For the money, this is a great set. After about 50 hours of use and a calibration everything seemed to come together. Dark scenes are not perfect, sometimes it is a little green. This is a +/- $2,000 set, it is more quality then I expected for the price, but is NOT perfect. If it was a $5,000 set I would expect more, but....

I have bad Adelphia cable service. Your picture will only be as good as the signal. If it is a bad signal, esp. in SD, it will look worse blown up to these sizes. Its not the Sammy's fault. With a good signal you should get a nice picture. The return rate on HD tv's is very high, people expect miracles but if your cable or satellite signal is lame, your pictures will be too.

HD is totally awesome. Watch ESPN or some other HD content and this set will blow you away.

Using the SM tweaks seemed to help. Turning the "sharpness" up adds stuff to the pic that is not there. Most professional calibrations I have seen turn it down near 0. It is totally a matter of personal preference.

Remember people, esp. on the net, with problems tend to post A LOT more then satisfied folks. This forum also tends to seem to have much more educated and technical folks who expect more then the average person. They probably notice stuff I never would.

All in all, I am very satisfied. I think the average person should be blown away by this set, esp if you consider the price and spend a few minutes to tweak the factory settings a bit. Its not cheap, but the "value" in my mind is really high.

Thanks for the information, but how are your eyes? 11" is pretty close!


Good catch! 11" has been changed to 11'. Wow... the picture looks much less blurry now! <grin>


Roger

Hello, I've been reading this thread for some time now and it's been very helpful - hoping now someone can bail me out.

Is there anywhere I can find a listing of the original factory settings that would have been contained in my 5076 service menu?

Like a fool I decided to at least take a look at the service menu and now I want to try and confirm I didn't change anything because the picture now looks a little different (I understand my color settings were re-set and I have changed them back). Is there anywhere to find this info?

Thanks!
Aaron

Not to offend anyone, but I think "HD" over cable sucks. I have looked at both and OTA (if you can get it) is far superior to any "HD" that I have seen from the satellite people or the cable folks.

I'm sorry, maybe its the engineer in me, I don't mean to offend you in anyway, but I read this statement and kinda shook my head and chuckled.

HD-TV signals are a digital signal, its a stream of 1's and 0's; whether you get it over the air via an antenna, a satellite dish, or a coax cable its still the same datastream. Its not like a digital signal can suffer from signal degredation - either its there or its not.

The only problem you could get - and this could occur with any transport medium, is losing the signal and getting breakup of the picture/sound. But if you get the signal, its not like the picture quality will be effected by the transport medium.

- Al

I think he means his cable company sucks.... probably compressed to death....

Don

Before I go out and buy one, will I notice a difference in picture if I pick up an upconverting dvd player for less than $150 or so? Will it be much better than a regular progressive scan player?


Surely someone with this TV must have compared dvds over an upconverting player and a normal progressive player? Anyone?

Don1959 nailed it - the COMPRESSION does not make all HD equal.

Surely someone with this TV must have compared dvds over an upconverting player and a normal progressive player? Anyone?

I use a Samsung HD-950 connected via HDMI and honestly, I don't notice a huge difference over my old progressive scan.

HD-TV signals are a digital signal, its a stream of 1's and 0's; whether you get it over the air via an antenna, a satellite dish, or a coax cable its still the same datastream. Its not like a digital signal can suffer from signal degredation - either its there or its not.

But what you get over satellite or cable is most usually NOT the same datastream that you get over the air.

Just look at the bitrates on DirecTV compared to over the air channels in Dallas...

http://www.widemovies.com/dfwbitrate.html

agwalters, thanks for the reply

To those people that are still on the fence in purchasing this set... I was in your shoes about a month ago and took the plunge on a 5667. No regrets what-so-ever. The tv is absolutely magnificent. SD quality isnt that great but HD is super clear. I purchased the set @ Bestbuy and had them pricematch Amazon's price. Im still in that 'playing with the settings' stage... so there is still room for improvement.

To those people that are still on the fence in purchasing this set... I was in your shoes about a month ago and took the plunge on a 5667. No regrets what-so-ever. The tv is absolutely magnificent. SD quality isnt that great but HD is super clear. I purchased the set @ Bestbuy and had them pricematch Amazon's price. Im still in that 'playing with the settings' stage... so there is still room for improvement.

Bestbuy agrees to pricematch Amazon's price? Did they make an exception for you under a special circumstance? :confused:

Bestbuy agrees to pricematch Amazon's price? Did they make an exception for you under a special circumstance? :confused:

Well I also took the plunge ! Ordered the hlr5667 should be here Tuesday between 2-6 . I do have to admit , I was concerned after reading allot about bulb failures, lag times and others. I HOPE , no problems !

I try to keep a open mind regarding warranty failures. In my line of service work I also repiar equipment under factory warranty and start to wonder if some brand or part is junk, what I over look is all the units not having problems ,which of Course I don't see , because I don't repair the good ones!

This will be my first and last large screen HDTV set for a long time.

I do not have HDTV at the house yet, Need to pick up box later this week. Will the unit look worse then a regular tv set or about the same until I get the equipment? Ordered the HDMI cables today! Now I need a stand !
Best Buys would not Price Match Amazon for me.

Bestbuy agrees to pricematch Amazon's price? Did they make an exception for you under a special circumstance? :confused:

Bought a 5067 from BB the weekend before the superbowl.. they had that huge sale on all tv's that weekend. 2 weeks later, I noticed that Amazon had a sale for the 5667 for the below the price I purchased my 5067... yes, Amazon's shipped price was below my 5067 from BB.

That weekend I walked into BB and explained the situation and I was ready to return my 5067.. after the rep spoke to her 'manager', they were able to switch my 5067 for the 5667. They also matched Amazon's price. Essentially, I got a bigger TV for the same price I had originally paid. My only gripe was that I had to pay MA tax of 5%. So I paid $100 more than Amazon's price but it gave me a piece of mind of getting the TV locally.

Surely someone with this TV must have compared dvds over an upconverting player and a normal progressive player? Anyone?

i had the sumsung hd850 upconverting dvd player, and i didn't see any true HD type quality sharpness or detail, so i sold it on ebay and used my sony progressive scan dvd player instead. I do now notice more pixelization of my dvd's but not more than watching standard def digital cable... so the long answer is I barely noticed the HD output of DVD's -probably more due to the upconverting to 720p at the source rather than having the tv do it.

worth $100-$150 more than the standard DVD player??? I don't think so.... best using that money towards the soon to be true HD DVD players coming.

Hi everyone. I recently purchased the HL-R4667W and hooked it up via HDMI to a SA 8300HD DVR. With this connection none of the standard definition channels come in unless I choose the Fixed picture format. All other picture formats (Auto HDMI/DVI, Upconvert-1, Upconvert-2) do not allow me get the SD channels. Has anyone else experienced this? Is this a problem with the HDMI port on the 8300HD box? Thanks.

Hi everyone. I recently purchased the HL-R4667W and hooked it up via HDMI to a SA 8300HD DVR. With this connection none of the standard definition channels come in unless I choose the Fixed picture format. All other picture formats (Auto HDMI/DVI, Upconvert-1, Upconvert-2) do not allow me get the SD channels. Has anyone else experienced this? Is this a problem with the HDMI port on the 8300HD box? Thanks.

It could be an SA 8300HD box problem. Did you run through the setup wizard to select the proper resolutions accepted by the TV? I think 480i is the only one that didn't work (weird, since that's SD resolution, but whatever...). In my case, the 8300HD would upconvert that to 480p and send it to my HL-R5067W. It doesn't seem to matter much whether I use Auto DVI/HDMI, Fixed, or whatever. I've settled on forcing the box to upconvert to 720p instead of letting the TV do it. No reason other than if all else is equal (I can't see a difference in PQ), I'd rather let the box do the work and minimize switching on the TV.

I love my 61".

It rocks!

Yes, I went through the setup, and like yours 480i was the only one that didn't work, which I also thought was weird. I don't think it will be a problem leaving it on the Fixed picture format, but I guess I'll put a call into Cox and see what they say. Thanks.

I'm currently in a battle with Samsung over getting a replacement HL-R5067, since my digital board is broken and they have no idea when they will get the part (it's been over a month). I'm going to try and get an upgrade to the HL-R5078 but that's neither here nor there.

My question is this...since I will most likely be getting a new set, what color preset is the best for grayscale? My current set has been calibrated, but now it's looking like a waste of $300 if the set is going to be swapped out. Since it will be a new set, an I want to break it in before I think of getting another calibration (and of course the wife will have to consent), what setting should I use out of the box? I will do the SM gamma tweak from two to zero, since that is an ISF supported tweak (at least the data my calibrator had mentioned that).

Should I use "Movie" mode and adjust from there, as the DVE disc states? Should I leave it on Standard/Custom and adjust the color temperature? My setting on my current set pre-ISF were Custom and "Warm 1", and my grayscale was burning at around 11000K.

Any help would be VERY much appreciated. I will be disappointed knowing that color and grayscale are off on my new set, but at least I will have use of the HDMI input again. Thanks!


*Any additional out-of-box tweaks to the HL-R5067W would be appreciated as well...SM or not (I am very comfortable in there). Thanks again and hopefully I can get some help here.*

Two days ago I received my Samsung HL-P5067W which i have been saving for since December. I currently have it connect to a Motorola cable box from Bresnan communications through coax. I also have an xbox and a Samsung upconversion DVD player all hooked up through a Sony STR-DE598 Reciever. Right now i am just using an AV cable for video out to the tv but i have a componenet cable coming for that and an hdmi cable for the DVD player.

I am currently looking into getting an antenna for HDTV but of course purchasing the tv i am a little light in the wallet until the next paycheck. so i was wondering does it matter what antenna i get. can i save a little and still get an antenna that going to work well or should i just wait a little bit and spend a little more to get a bit of a better one. i dont want to go buy one and end up having it make a huge difference if i just would have spent like $20 more.

If anybody has any suggestions on how to make everything look or sound better and just be an all around awsome experiance let me know.

Hi Guys,
I'm not sure if this is the correct place to post this question. But I am looking for a box that will convert composite or S-video (Y/C) to S-VGA.

I would like to interface my Canopus ADVC-100 IEEE Digital Video Converter to one of my CRT or LCD computer monitors.
Thank you,
Kevin

I am currently looking into getting an antenna for HDTV but of course purchasing the tv i am a little light in the wallet until the next paycheck. so i was wondering does it matter what antenna i get. can i save a little and still get an antenna that going to work well or should i just wait a little bit and spend a little more to get a bit of a better one. i dont want to go buy one and end up having it make a huge difference if i just would have spent like $20 more.

If anybody has any suggestions on how to make everything look or sound better and just be an all around awsome experiance let me know.

The model/cost of the OTA antenna doesnt matter, it's a matter of the signal strength you'll need, which is a function of how far away you are from where the HD is being broadcast. This is a great website to find out what's being transmitted in your area.

http://antennaweb.org/aw/Address.aspx

And you're on the right track as far as improving your audio/video. Use component/hdmi wherever possible. Route all video straight to the tv, and all audio straight to the receiver.

how good is with the Xbox360, I've been hearing lots of complaints with lag


is this true?

Surely someone with this TV must have compared dvds over an upconverting player and a normal progressive player? Anyone?

I have a 5067W, and I had a Sony 480p DVD player (I actually don't remember the model now), and found issues more with audio lag than with picture quality.

I upgraded to a Panasonic S97S and the upconvert, combined with the S97's audio timing adjustments, fixed the audio lip sync issue. The picture is good, too, but I can't say it's significantly, or even noticeably, better than the 480p picture.

Okay, i know this has been covered at length and with much debate, but i would like to pose a few questions mainly because i am considering (and probably will) purchase this TV. Now any replies, get as technical as you like. I am an audio engineer by trade, so you really can't scare me when it comes to all things audible.

Here is the list for those of you with audio problems:

How is the video from your xbox/ps2/etc. connected to the tv? Is it directly connected? Is it via component, composite or s-video?
How is your audio connected? Is it directly to the tv or through a reciever? Analog or digital?
Are you using MS brand cables or somthing else? If digital audio, have you tried more than one optical audio cable?
What resolution are you running your games at? If the game supports 720p, do you have 720p selected in the settings on the console? Do you notice the lag more with 480p games? Have you tested more than one game at all the availble resolutions?


I'd be interested if sombody who has one of the sammy HLR's to run these gamuts of tests, especially if you own an X-Box (considering that is what i'll be using to play games and watch dvd's at least initially).

Also i have a Cox DVR 6414 series III box with HDMI out. Anybody else have this box with cox or any other provider? How's the quality? Any suggestions for a first time rear projection owner? I'm looking at getting the HLR5067W and main viewing distance is 9' or so away. Should i go with somthing smaller? I'm mainly going with the 50" for the PC input because i'm building a media center box and that would be perfect instaid of having to go through all the rigamarole of either DVI out to HDMI and a switch or DVI to component video which my vid card supports. Anyway.... any input from anybody would be appriciated.

Howdy gang.

Brand new owner of the HLR4667w.

I was on the fence after reading all the caveats regarding game lag,
and external audio lag, and have yet to experience or test out any theories.

But I do have a question.

If the "Game" setting for the inputs seems to reduce picture processing,
and turning off "DNR" seems to be additional help, are there any other
helpful hidden settings in any of the other named settings for the inputs?

Could the holy grail of being able to turn off "DNIe" exist by selecting one of the other settings?

I will say, that after simply attaching an OTA antenna ($29 radio shack),
and watching American Idol last night in HD, I have won my wife over and
she sees just how great the picture looks. I can also tell that I might have to
be brave and tweak the gamma in the service menu, because the blacks are
almost too black. But overall? totally worth what I paid (I highly reccomend checking
the current price at electronics-expo.com) I won't post the price because I know thats a no-no.

Thanks for all the great advice so far.

I have a HLR 5667W that i bought last May 05.....

Does this mean that there is currently no GAME option on my set?


I am trying to hook up an old 8-Bit Nintendo, and a Sega Genesis, and am experiencing horrible lag when hooking in thru coaxial.


Has anybody figured out how to get these older game systems to work? There's no way to hook either up thru component (that i know of), so i'm stuck!! I want 56" Mario!!!!!!!

Hi,

I recently purchased a Samsung HL-R5667w television set and I'd like some advice regarding the audio setup on a 5.1 audio system. I tried hooking up the television's Optical out to my audio receiver and I am getting audio from only the center channel. I tried to enable the Digital Audio out option in the TV's audio setting, but for me, that option is grayed out (it appears to be on the default PCM option, and there is no way for me to select/change it to the Dolby out option).
Could someone kindly explain to me a way to get around this problem?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the clarification and reminder. I had forgotten all about that offer! I printed out the form so I won't forget again.

Thanks, thats what I plan on doing as well. I noticed an 800 number on the rebate form so gave it a call yesterday. The CSR first told me 'all you need is the UPC barcode'. When I told her thanks for clarifying, since I wasn't sure due to the multiple barcodes she then said something to the effect of 'yeah, all we need to see is the UPC barcode along with the text that says the model number'.

Thats when I figured I'd play it safe and just send in one half of the sticker - haha.
I was just a little nervous about sending in both barcodes since the second barcode includes the serial number - but I registered the TV at Samsung's website with the serial number, so I now figure, whats the risk?

Still a little surprised they are offering a $149 DVD-Recorder for free, even if it is last year's model.

Hi,

I recently purchased a Samsung HL-R5667w television set and I'd like some advice regarding the audio setup on a 5.1 audio system. I tried hooking up the television's Optical out to my audio receiver and I am getting audio from only the center channel. I tried to enable the Digital Audio out option in the TV's audio setting, but for me, that option is grayed out (it appears to be on the default PCM option, and there is no way for me to select/change it to the Dolby out option).
Could someone kindly explain to me a way to get around this problem?

Your help is greatly appreciated.


How is your audio going in to the TV?? Have you tried tweaking your receiver settings? If you have an analog connection in to the TV I don't think you can really get digital out of the TV optical as it will only be an analog signal anyway. I have the digital out of my STB going right into my receiver and don't use the audio out of the TV. Also my receiver has about 4-5 setting plus a stereo setting which all alter the way the audio bounces between speakers. I would try a direct connection to the receiver and also look at how you are feeding the audio signal to the TV. Good luck

i've had a samsung hlr5067 for about 11 months, had the screen replaced twice due to moisture between the two layers, and the digital board replaced because HDMI stopped working.

Now my HDMI is not working again. I have a Time Warner SA-8300. It was working fine but a few days ago i cut everything on, and now i get a message with something like:

" Your TV does not support HDCP..."

I called Timewarner, they sent a guy out but he didnt do anything, said i need a firmware upgrade for the set. Anyone ever heard of this? Wanted to see if anyone else had this problem before i try to get samsung to do anything else.

Thanks

Now my HDMI is not working again. I have a Time Warner SA-8300. It was working fine but a few days ago i cut everything on, and now i get a message with something like:

" Your TV does not support HDCP..."

I called Timewarner, they sent a guy out but he didnt do anything, said i need a firmware upgrade for the set. Anyone ever heard of this? Wanted to see if anyone else had this problem before i try to get samsung to do anything else.

Thanks
Wow... you've certainly had your share of problems with the Sammy! I hope those were issues resolved before the more recently manufactured ones hit the market.

Not sure about the new error message, but if it refers to "DHCP" that is a configuration issue for the STB possibly indicating your cable box has lost its IP address, a TW problem not the Samsung. Try unplugging it completely (AC and cable) wait a couple minutes and reconnect.

Roger

I think he means his cable company sucks.... probably compressed to death....

Don

Ah, OK - I didn't consider the fact that some cable companies recompress the signals they receive from the networks. (I knew the satelite companies did.)

Biggest problem I've got currently with my cable company is a poor S/N ratio. From reading on the SA-8300HD threads, sounds like I should be looking for a FDC S/N ratio over 32, currently i'm getting 26 and experiencing some breakup in the HD signals. Time to replace my RG-59 with RG-6 I guess and then give the cable company a call.

I finally pulled the trigger and bought a 5067.

It looks awesome, however.......It keeps turning off on its own. Every 3 or 4 minutes.

I am little annoyed. Does anybody have any experience with this. The TV is in an armoire. Could it be overheating? It has no room on the sides, and about 10 inches in the back. There are holes in the shelf above it and in the back of the armoire for cords. If that is the problem, would cutting a big whole in the back of the armoire fix the problem. I remember someone on this forum had this exact setup before.

HELP!!!

UPDATE:

Okay, the TV wen about 3 and a half minutes before turning off. The next time (right after) it went 7 minutes. After that I pulled the tv out (diagonally) of the armoire and turned it on (about 1 or 2 minutes after it turned off). That time it turned off after <1minute. The air behind the tv (inside armoire does not feel warm, after it turns off. And the last time, there should have been enough ventilation with it halfway out of the armoire. Any ideas as to what is causing this?

NEW UPDATE:

Okay, it is oficcially NOT a heat problem. I took the TV out of the armoire, placed it on a table (which is right under a ceiling fan), and it only lasted 3 and a half minutes! WTF!

So now, should I wait for the service guy to come out, or take it back to Sears?

Dnatester, I recently had the same type of problems with my 8 month old hlr4667w Samsung DLP . The Sears tech came out, put the serial number in his hand held computer found out there wasn't any service bulletins issued on the set, he then dialed into Samsungs tech support line and was told to replace the ballast and the lamp. I was glad I had the additional warranty from Sears otherwise I would have been out about 170 dollars for the labor ,the parts would have been covered under the Samsung 12 month warranty. The work was done two weeks ago , so far its back working fine. I am keeping a close watch on this set, If more problems would start to pop up and the set is less than a year old , I will press Sears to replace this TV. I went through a lot of BS with a Hitachi 43" 43uwx10b,multible service visits ,they never could straighten out a red convergence problem. I hope I am not starting the saga all over again,because I relly like the PQ on this Samsung. Frank

I just bought the 50 inch version of this tv and I am having some problems with picture quality. Even on HD channels, the picture is grainy and can be pixulated. In HD this doesnt usually happen with graphics, or things that are static, but when things are moving. The same is true in standard def. I may be paranoid, but I was wondering if others had similiar troubles? I tried to look through old posts for some answers, but didnt make it through all 2100, so i apologize if this issue has been disussed before, but any hlpe is much appreciated! thanks

i've had a samsung hlr5067 for about 11 months, had the screen replaced twice due to moisture between the two layers, and the digital board replaced because HDMI stopped working.

Now my HDMI is not working again. I have a Time Warner SA-8300. It was working fine but a few days ago i cut everything on, and now i get a message with something like:

" Your TV does not support HDCP..."

I called Timewarner, they sent a guy out but he didnt do anything, said i need a firmware upgrade for the set. Anyone ever heard of this? Wanted to see if anyone else had this problem before i try to get samsung to do anything else.

Thanks

This was a common problem on the 8300 until about 2 months ago, when the did a firmware upgrade. Try unplugging your 8300 for a few minutes, then plug back in, during the reboot it should update the firmware. If not, you need a replacement one is all. This message would come on all the time when turning on the cable box, then the TV.

Sometimes if you turn on the TV, then the cable box, the message wouldn't come up, but that was prior to the update. Now, I don't even have to turn on the cable box... the HDMI connection triggers the box to come on as soon as I power up the Sammy.... cool huh. I think they finally got the two components to 'handshake' properly.

Okay, i know this has been covered at length and with much debate, but i would like to pose a few questions mainly because i am considering (and probably will) purchase this TV. Now any replies, get as technical as you like. I am an audio engineer by trade, so you really can't scare me when it comes to all things audible.

Here is the list for those of you with audio problems:

How is the video from your xbox/ps2/etc. connected to the tv? Is it directly connected? Is it via component, composite or s-video?
How is your audio connected? Is it directly to the tv or through a reciever? Analog or digital?
Are you using MS brand cables or somthing else? If digital audio, have you tried more than one optical audio cable?
What resolution are you running your games at? If the game supports 720p, do you have 720p selected in the settings on the console? Do you notice the lag more with 480p games? Have you tested more than one game at all the availble resolutions?


I'd be interested if sombody who has one of the sammy HLR's to run these gamuts of tests, especially if you own an X-Box (considering that is what i'll be using to play games and watch dvd's at least initially).

Also i have a Cox DVR 6414 series III box with HDMI out. Anybody else have this box with cox or any other provider? How's the quality? Any suggestions for a first time rear projection owner? I'm looking at getting the HLR5067W and main viewing distance is 9' or so away. Should i go with somthing smaller? I'm mainly going with the 50" for the PC input because i'm building a media center box and that would be perfect instaid of having to go through all the rigamarole of either DVI out to HDMI and a switch or DVI to component video which my vid card supports. Anyway.... any input from anybody would be appriciated.


Yes all of this has been covered before... if you simply search for audio lag - your answers await you... including an intriguing comment about the quality of the video on the pc input vs. the other inputs.

Hi,

I recently purchased a Samsung HL-R5667w television set and I'd like some advice regarding the audio setup on a 5.1 audio system. I tried hooking up the television's Optical out to my audio receiver and I am getting audio from only the center channel. I tried to enable the Digital Audio out option in the TV's audio setting, but for me, that option is grayed out (it appears to be on the default PCM option, and there is no way for me to select/change it to the Dolby out option).
Could someone kindly explain to me a way to get around this problem?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

The optical out on the samsung does not pass 5.1 sound in most cases. I believe if you are watching via OTA antenna then it can but otherwise it will not pass through 5.1. Check your receiver settings and make sure it's set to dolby pro logic II which can matrix out 2.1 sound to a 5.1 speaker system.

I just got my hdmi cable this saturday and tried to hook it up to my hd845 hd upconversion samsung dvd player. at first i didnt get a picture just some scanning static. so i hooked it up with the component and checked the settings to make sure it was set to hdmi out. then i changed it back to hdmi and it was working for a little bit. then i messed with my receiver a tad bit and the signal went out and back to the scanning static. so as of now i just have it hooked up through component. does any one have any ideas on how i can make this work.

Also i tried to hook up my cable box video to my receiver via A/V cable and then connect my receiver to my television through component. but i didnt receive a signal. does any one have any ideas on this as well. i am using a sony strde598 audio/video receiver. and my cable box only has a/v, coax, and s-video connections on the back of it.

any help would be great.

HD Hockey Guy,
Thanks for the reply. I have tried rebooting the cable box by holding in the power button for 8 seconds until it boots, but that didnt help. I will try to disconnect the power for a few minutes after i leave work today to see if that helps.

The cable guy that came out when i called refused to give me a new cable box. I think i already have the updated firmware, my cable box turns automatically on with the tv when connected with hdmi.

Has anyone heard of any firmware upgrades to the samsung related?


rhw199,

thanks also, but its not an IP problem, but an HDCP (high def content protection) hand shake type of problem.

I've browsed through the HLRxx67W thread. Considering HLR4667 purchase.

1. Has anyone found a way to turn off DNIe?

2. Can you point to instructions for accessing Service menu? (I may reset Gamma if straightforward)

3. Can ISF Calibration succeed in turning off DNIe?

4. Is there new firmware?

5. If new firmware is not made available, do ppl think it would be worthwhile to petition their tech support for new firmware that allows users to turn off DNIe, along with some other issues mentioned in this thread?

Thanks for speedy replies; anyone's comments welcome!

how good is with the Xbox360, I've been hearing lots of complaints with lag


is this true?

Completely false. I have my X360 hooked up via component obviously with the component input set to "GAME" and there is absolutely no lag whatsoever. Just set the 360 to 720p and game on. It's a beautiful thing.

I've not had my Sammy professionally calibrated so I've been looking forward to the HD-Net test patterns that are finally available to me tonight.

Has anyone been down this road? Was it worthwhile?

Also i tried to hook up my cable box video to my receiver via A/V cable and then connect my receiver to my television through component. but i didnt receive a signal. does any one have any ideas on this as well. i am using a sony strde598 audio/video receiver. and my cable box only has a/v, coax, and s-video connections on the back of it. any help would be great.

Your best bet is to send the video to your TV and the audio to your receiver via a digital (coax or optical) connection. If your cable box lacks separate audio and video outputs you need to get an updated box.


Roger

Hi,

I recently purchased a Samsung HL-R5667w television set and I'd like some advice regarding the audio setup on a 5.1 audio system. I tried hooking up the television's Optical out to my audio receiver and I am getting audio from only the center channel. I tried to enable the Digital Audio out option in the TV's audio setting, but for me, that option is grayed out (it appears to be on the default PCM option, and there is no way for me to select/change it to the Dolby out option).
Could someone kindly explain to me a way to get around this problem?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

Can't help you with your center channel problem. Sounds like a setup issue with your receiver. Regarding the grayed-out options, the TV will only let you set options if they are applicable at the moment. So if the input is dolby digital 5.1, it will give you the option to set your audio. If you're watching simple stereo, it doesn't let you change the DD5.1 options. So tune to a HD channel that's playing a movie or something like that. That's assuming you are using the internal tuner, not a cable or satellite box.

Jon
HLR5067

Samsung repair out today. According to rep Samsung does sometimes use Toshiba light engines (but rarely) in their units. I asked how does he know it is Toshiba engine as it has Samsung lables on it. Phillips lamp used in both. Part # on lamp ends with O, OsRAM (Sp.), only used on Toshiba not Samsung. Replaced entire optical engine/lamp assembly and working now.
Thats odd, I just purchased the hlr4667 and it also has the osram lamp which is made for zeiss light engine. Checking the parts list for this model on partstore (dot)com the cost for the ziess light engine is about 500 less than the Philips light engine? WTF does the ziess have a 7 segment color wheel and the hd5 TI chip or what?
Build date on this hlr4667w is Sept. 2005. Have I just been had?

HD Hockey Guy,
Thanks for the reply. I have tried rebooting the cable box by holding in the power button for 8 seconds until it boots, but that didnt help. I will try to disconnect the power for a few minutes after i leave work today to see if that helps.

The cable guy that came out when i called refused to give me a new cable box. I think i already have the updated firmware, my cable box turns automatically on with the tv when connected with hdmi.

Has anyone heard of any firmware upgrades to the samsung related?


rhw199,

thanks also, but its not an IP problem, but an HDCP (high def content protection) hand shake type of problem.

well if your cable box is turning on by itself, then you have the updated firmware from waht i've read around these forums... i'm at a loss beyond that. (bad unit?). I had to get a 2nd unit after mine kept freezing during recordings and then randomly jumping to the live portion of a game that was currently in progress when I tried to start viewing the recorded portion... that sucked... knowing the score 2 hours into the game, when you want to start at teh beginning : (

best of luck though... post your solution in case this crops up for me! lol.

New firmware available.
I have an HL-R5067W.
After several times of Samsung blaming the cable card and saying there was no TV firmware update, they are now telling me there is a firmware updated just coming out now.
I have signed up for scheduling the update.
I have an SA cablecard and they indicated it must have firmware version 149 or later.
The CC diag screen indicates 2.3.149
The problem I was having was on a single HD channel. I had good audio and blank video. All other HD channels were fine.
They indicated that the firmware was for many types of cablecard problems, and I think other things as well.

I've browsed through the HLRxx67W thread. Considering HLR4667 purchase.

1. Has anyone found a way to turn off DNIe?

2. Can you point to instructions for accessing Service menu? (I may reset Gamma if straightforward)

3. Can ISF Calibration succeed in turning off DNIe?

4. Is there new firmware?

5. If new firmware is not made available, do ppl think it would be worthwhile to petition their tech support for new firmware that allows users to turn off DNIe, along with some other issues mentioned in this thread?

Thanks for speedy replies; anyone's comments welcome!


Yea...do a search in this thread for DNIE and you will find where someone has modified their SM to kill it. Same for gamma and index instructions. Varied results there. I don't think folks know that the DNIE is dynamic. It doesn't function at one level all the time. On a clean clear HD channel it doesn't function at all. It was designed to clean up SD as needed. Why disable that? I left mine at default.

If the ISF tech knows the sequence he can shut it off.

I don't think a firmware upgrade is going to enable some sort of DNIE control.

I think people were complaining that because DNIe is dynamic its impossible to get consistant black levels, etc since it changes these values from source to source and even from scene to scene on some material. I personally do not notice this.
I recently upgraded from a Toshiba 52HM84 (thank god it's gone) to the HLR5067W. I had read articles stating how DNIe ruins the picture causing jaggies, artifacting, etc.
I can definately see an improvement in the SD picture quality on the samsung over the Toshiba, even though the ammoung of SD I watch is minimal. Not sure if DNIe what is causing it to look better but I have deciced to keep it enabled.
I did turn off the Digital Noise Reduction, as well as setting the sharpness levels to 0 on all inputs.

Does anybody care to share what picture settings thet have their 5067W at? I have my contrast down to 35, and my brightness to 45 with the color set to 55. I feel like a lot of posts have contrast\brightness settings up past 60 which seem way to "hot" to me.

IMPALER

Does anybody care to share what picture settings thet have their 5067W at? I have my contrast down to 35, and my brightness to 45 with the color set to 55. I feel like a lot of posts have contrast\brightness settings up past 60 which seem way to "hot" to me.

IMPALER

After 6 weeks with the 5067W and using two setup discs these are my picture settings:

Picture Mode: Standard
Contrast: 65
Brightness: 55
Sharpness: 40
Color: 40
Colortone: Normal

The Color setting should actually be a little lower but I prefer a little extra saturation as long as there's no blooming. No other picture or SM adjustments are set on the 5067W.

This combination seems to work well for both HD cable channels and DVD playback. YMMV...


Roger

Newbie here (dlp owner and forum posting). I've been lurking for some time and finally purchased the HRL5067. Love it so far. I have seen posts discussing attaching the set to a PC via firewire to record SD/HD content but using different sets. Is anybody aware of a driver for the integrated tuner that will work with Windows XP pro? Does anybody have experience getting a PC based HD DVR working with this model?

Any threads here showing some entertainment centers or stands that people are using for this tv? Thanks

Newbie here (dlp owner and forum posting). I've been lurking for some time and finally purchased the HRL5067. Love it so far. I have seen posts discussing attaching the set to a PC via firewire to record SD/HD content but using different sets. Is anybody aware of a driver for the integrated tuner that will work with Windows XP pro? Does anybody have experience getting a PC based HD DVR working with this model? Welcome! You may want to take a look at this, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=403695 if you haven't already seen it. Never have tried anything myself yet.

Question for the 67 series owners: If you had to pay $400 more for the new 720p 86 series that's coming out for a 50" tv, would you? I'm wrestling with picking up a 5067 or waiting for a 5086 to come in a few weeks. I don't know if the 86 will be worth the extra $400+ it costs over the 67.

I went to CC today in hopes of liking these tvs after seeing the amazon prices. Oh well. I don't know what it is but not only was I let down by the picture. They look small for a 56 inch tv. I don't know. I saved up for a big tv. Now I can't decide on which way to go. Seems like there is something wrong with everything. Check every thread in this forum. There is something wrong with everything. lol

What are the diffferences between the 5067 and 5086? Is there anything under the hood that is better, IE a new DLP Chip or faster color wheel, etc? If all is the same and there are just some minor cosmetic tweaks, etc then it may not pay.
I am also very weary of newly released product. Internal QA cycles can only catch so many problems before a product is released to the public. Then its up to the customers to identify and reprort back isssues. It would probably be a safer proposition to go with the 5067w which has been out for some time and seems to be "proven" in the field.

I went to CC today in hopes of liking these tvs after seeing the amazon prices. Oh well. I don't know what it is but not only was I let down by the picture. They look small for a 56 inch tv. I don't know. I saved up for a big tv. Now I can't decide on which way to go. Seems like there is something wrong with everything. Check every thread in this forum. There is something wrong with everything. lol
1. You cannot go by the picture quality of ANY tv when its in the showroom. The settings are probably way off and the quality of their picture feed is probably not up to par with what you will be feeding it in your home.
2. These TVs get absolutely dwarfed inside these cavernous showrooms. I promise you when you put a 56 incher into your tv room, if anything you will question if the set you purchased is too large.

Once of the BIGGEST mistakes people make when purchasing HDTVs is overscreening for the size room they have. Bigger is not always better. If the screen is too big and you are sitting too close it will be too bright and you will also notice more defects in the picture.

Determine the viewing distance you plan to sit from the screen before settling on a size. I sit 10 feet away from a 50 inch samsung DLP and its perfect.

IMPALER

I have a question about the digital audio out (toslink) on my new samsung tv. Would it be better to have the toslink cable come from the tv to my receiver, or should i have it come from the cable box. I also have a DVD player which is connected to the receiver with a optical cable too. I was just wondering if the tv does any decoding or transcoding, or if it just passes the signal directly. Thanks.

~Velore

Your best solution is to run a toslink cable from both the TV and Cable box to your amplifier. When you are watching SD/HD channels from the integrated tuner you need the TV toslink to get surround sound. The same is true if you are watching digital cable. If you only have 1 input, you will have to choose or find some type of adapter. You could also use a digital coax cable instead, if you have one available on your DVD player. I'm not totally clear on what you are trying to do but there is no real advantage to running a digital signal into the TV (if that's even possible?).
One feature I really liked about the Samsung toslink is that it will stream the audio from whichever source you are viewing to your amplifier. So if you only have analog signals from a game console, you hook them to AV(x) on the samsung, leave the toslink connected to the amp, and you automatically have Pro Logic (or whatever you want) for your games without additional cables and switchers. The wife and kids don't even have to turn the stereo on if they don't want "deluxe audio".


I have a question about the digital audio out (toslink) on my new samsung tv. Would it be better to have the toslink cable come from the tv to my receiver, or should i have it come from the cable box. I also have a DVD player which is connected to the receiver with a optical cable too. I was just wondering if the tv does any decoding or transcoding, or if it just passes the signal directly. Thanks.

~Velore

Welcome! You may want to take a look at this, <missing link> if you haven't already seen it. Never have tried anything myself yet.
Thanks for the response. That is the post I have been reading. My question is specific to Windows XP pro since I don't have MCE.

thanks for the help.

~velore

I think people were complaining that because DNIe is dynamic its impossible to get consistant black levels, etc since it changes these values from source to source and even from scene to scene on some material. I personally do not notice this.
I recently upgraded from a Toshiba 52HM84 (thank god it's gone) to the HLR5067W. I had read articles stating how DNIe ruins the picture causing jaggies, artifacting, etc.
I can definately see an improvement in the SD picture quality on the samsung over the Toshiba, even though the ammoung of SD I watch is minimal. Not sure if DNIe what is causing it to look better but I have deciced to keep it enabled.
I did turn off the Digital Noise Reduction, as well as setting the sharpness levels to 0 on all inputs.

Does anybody care to share what picture settings thet have their 5067W at? I have my contrast down to 35, and my brightness to 45 with the color set to 55. I feel like a lot of posts have contrast\brightness settings up past 60 which seem way to "hot" to me.

IMPALER

I've also had a very (scarry) similar situation with Impaler, both having the same TV's 52HM95 and now a HLR5067W.
The installers that came in to remove the Toshiba and placed the Samsung on my generic TV stand double checked the box and said " I think we may have gotten you the wrong TV, because this one is smaller", and they are right, the Tosh was very long because of the speakers, the screen size nobody can tell a differernce. I also have had similar impressions.
Cable - 6412 V 3 box through Armstrong -
- Samsung does have better SD picture.
- Once I got done calibrating the color, I honestly can't tell the picture clarity difference between the Samsung and the Toshiba (when the toshiba actually worked)
- I did like how you could go between inputs better on the Toshiba
- I also liked how the Toshiba would report to you the resoultion when it switched components
- I do like the menu functions better on the samsung
-1 HDMI vs 2 (toshiba has 2)
- You can use the Samsung as a computer monitor. Toshiba threatens you not to.
Overall I am happy with the switch and thanks everyone for the info!

Any threads here showing some entertainment centers or stands that people are using for this tv? Thanks

I purchased the Tech Craft Bernini Series HK52B from Stands & Mounts. It's perfect for my HL-R5067W. You can view it here (remove the spaces):

http:// tiny url . com / amm32


Roger

I think people were complaining that because DNIe is dynamic its impossible to get consistant black levels, etc since it changes these values from source to source and even from scene to scene on some material. I personally do not notice this.
I recently upgraded from a Toshiba 52HM84 (thank god it's gone) to the HLR5067W. I had read articles stating how DNIe ruins the picture causing jaggies, artifacting, etc.
I can definately see an improvement in the SD picture quality on the samsung over the Toshiba, even though the ammoung of SD I watch is minimal. Not sure if DNIe what is causing it to look better but I have deciced to keep it enabled.
I did turn off the Digital Noise Reduction, as well as setting the sharpness levels to 0 on all inputs.

Does anybody care to share what picture settings thet have their 5067W at? I have my contrast down to 35, and my brightness to 45 with the color set to 55. I feel like a lot of posts have contrast\brightness settings up past 60 which seem way to "hot" to me.

IMPALER


I have to think the master calibration from teh factory must vary greatly, as if I turn my settings down that far, everything would be so dark - it would make whites look grey.

I run standard HD programs at 90 contrast, 55 brightness, 54 color on warm1. this looks perfect to me. SD programs tend to be darker from my cable provider, so I bump the brightness up to 60, and contrast to 95.

I get no blooming, no washout, at all.... dunno why some people say settings under 80 on contrast, and 50 on brightness unless it's just a random starting point from the factory relative to ea. set???

to each their own i guess... : /

Anyone know if amazons shipping would deliver to an upstairs apartment? I know they have free shipping and all. I'm just curious if they would bring it to the second level of an apartment complex? Thanks

Yes. They (2 people) brought into my house. carried it to the second floor, took it out of the box and put it on the stand.

Yes. They (2 people) brought into my house. carried it to the second floor, took it out of the box and put it on the stand.

Thanks

Anyone own this tech craft stand? Or if not, do you think it would be a good fit with the 56 inch model. I've made my mind up on this combination and now I just need some positive feedback and I'll probably pull the trigger next week.
http://www.standsandmounts.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4785

Ok, I've had the TV for two weeks. Like it very much, and after making some adjustments a couple of days ago that didn't improve anything, now I'm making progress. I'll post my settings from the service menu when I'm finished.

Here's my question. The darks are looking better and better, but what I still see occasionally, is when there is like various dark background material, and say maybe a face in the foreground, the darks start looking like animation to a small degree and it almost seems like the TV doesn't know how to properly display that particular scene, so it varies back and forth from black to gray. I'm thinking there must be some sort of automatic density/contrast adjustment that is taking place. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for any advice. I think if i can resolve this I'll be pretty close to having it where i'm satisfied.

This has been a GREAT source of information, hopefully I can start contributing shortly.

Regards,
Bill Warren

Wondering if anyone else has seen this problem:

For the second time now, my 5667 has shut itself off, after me having not very hard contact with the floor. I was kneeling down doing something on the front panel of the cable box, and leaned back, and kinda landed on my butt first before my hands, just sending a small vibration through the floor.

This kicked off the TV, with the "Lamp" and "Standby/Power" lights flashing. According to the manual, this indicates check the lamp cover. It is fine, I have never touched it, the screws are tightened. I'm wondering if this means something is loose inside, so a small bump on the floor is making it kick in the safety cutoff? When it kicks itself off, it's like you just pulled the plug, the fans do NOT stay on.

First time this happened, I tried powering it back on immediatly. Kicks off after about 40 seconds, my guess is b/c it wasn't cooled off or something. I waited an hour after the first time, and it worked fine up until now. Still have to wait another 40 minutes right now.

ALso the first time this happened, my cable box shut off. I think this was b/c the first time I pulled the plug from the tv, to attempt to reset it. Tonight while trying to get output from my 6412 onto a D-VHS deck, when I plugged in a firewire cable to the cable box, it killed the cable box! So I think that's why, something in the firewire sends a signal to kill the cable box or something weird.

Has anybody had this problem though, with the TV kicking off after a small vibration sent through the floor?


TV is about 8-9 months old.

I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem - I've got an HLR5067w, and I'm unable to adjust the color temperature on either my cable box or dvd player when they are plugged into either component input. (i.e., the "warm1" or "cool1" settings are greyed out, whether it is on Standard, Movie, Dynamic, or Custom modes)

This seems especially strange because when I hook up my cable box with an HDMI cable, I can adjust the color temperature, but when I use component cables, I can't. Similarly, I can adjust the color temp when using composite cables on my dvd player.

The same thing happens with my dvd player, on both component inputs. My dad has the HLR4266w and the same dvd player as me (a Philips DVP642), and I'm able to adjust the color temperature on his television without any problem.

Anyone have any thoughts as to whether I inadvertantly set something up wrong? Is it possible for the component inputs to be messed up??

Thanks!

I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem - I've got an HLR5067w, and I'm unable to adjust the color temperature on either my cable box or dvd player when they are plugged into either component input. (i.e., the "warm1" or "cool1" settings are greyed out, whether it is on Standard, Movie, Dynamic, or Custom modes)

This seems especially strange because when I hook up my cable box with an HDMI cable, I can adjust the color temperature, but when I use component cables, I can't. Similarly, I can adjust the color temp when using composite cables on my dvd player.

The same thing happens with my dvd player, on both component inputs. My dad has the HLR4266w and the same dvd player as me (a Philips DVP642), and I'm able to adjust the color temperature on his television without any problem.

Anyone have any thoughts as to whether I inadvertantly set something up wrong? Is it possible for the component inputs to be messed up??

Thanks!
You didn't do anything wrong. The color temperature adjustment is disabled when hooking up devices via the component inputs.

You didn't do anything wrong. The color temperature adjustment is disabled when hooking up devices via the component inputs.
Thanks for your reply - I suspected as much, but I'm also 99.99% sure that when I was over at my dad's yesterday, I was able to adjust the color temperature when using his dvd player attached via the component inputs. Is the HLR4266w different in this regard from the HLR5067w??

The warm1 setting drives me nuts - on my tv, I can definitely notice the red push. Does anyone know how to work around this when using a progressive scan dvd player??

Thanks for your reply - I suspected as much, but I'm also 99.99% sure that when I was over at my dad's yesterday, I was able to adjust the color temperature when using his dvd player attached via the component inputs. Is the HLR4266w different in this regard from the HLR5067w??

The warm1 setting drives me nuts - on my tv, I can definitely notice the red push. Does anyone know how to work around this when using a progressive scan dvd player??
My bad, it is the Tint Control that is disabled when connected via the component inputs. On my HL-R5067W, the Color Temp control is only disabled when in Movie mode. Unfortunately, I don't know why it's disabled on yours in the other modes.

Which dvd player do you guys own and do you recommend it? I'm getting the 56 inch set in a week or 2 and was curious what dvd player to get. I was thinking of picking up the new toshiba hddvd player in a few weeks but I'm not sure that I'm ready to go that route until some reviews are up. Thanks

For the second time now, my 5667 has shut itself off, after me having not very hard contact with the floor. I was kneeling down doing something on the front panel of the cable box, and leaned back, and kinda landed on my butt first before my hands, just sending a small vibration through the floor.

This kicked off the TV, with the "Lamp" and "Standby/Power" lights flashing. According to the manual, this indicates check the lamp cover. It is fine, I have never touched it, the screws are tightened. I'm wondering if this means something is loose inside, so a small bump on the floor is making it kick in the safety cutoff? When it kicks itself off, it's like you just pulled the plug, the fans do NOT stay on.
My TV is about a month and a half old but I don't have any problems of this sort. I would suggest checking the power cord to make sure it isn't loose and then calling Samsung to have somebody come make sure everything is tight internally.

Ok, I've had the TV for two weeks. Like it very much, and after making some adjustments a couple of days ago that didn't improve anything, now I'm making progress. I'll post my settings from the service menu when I'm finished.

Here's my question. The darks are looking better and better, but what I still see occasionally, is when there is like various dark background material, and say maybe a face in the foreground, the darks start looking like animation to a small degree and it almost seems like the TV doesn't know how to properly display that particular scene, so it varies back and forth from black to gray. I'm thinking there must be some sort of automatic density/contrast adjustment that is taking place. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for any advice. I think if i can resolve this I'll be pretty close to having it where i'm satisfied.

This has been a GREAT source of information, hopefully I can start contributing shortly.

Regards,
Bill Warren
Bill - any more luck with your settings? I think I have similar issues to what you describe. Thanks.

Wondering if anyone else has seen this problem:

For the second time now, my 5667 has shut itself off, after me having not very hard contact with the floor. I was kneeling down doing something on the front panel of the cable box, and leaned back, and kinda landed on my butt first before my hands, just sending a small vibration through the floor.

This kicked off the TV, with the "Lamp" and "Standby/Power" lights flashing. According to the manual, this indicates check the lamp cover. It is fine, I have never touched it, the screws are tightened. I'm wondering if this means something is loose inside, so a small bump on the floor is making it kick in the safety cutoff? When it kicks itself off, it's like you just pulled the plug, the fans do NOT stay on.

First time this happened, I tried powering it back on immediatly. Kicks off after about 40 seconds, my guess is b/c it wasn't cooled off or something. I waited an hour after the first time, and it worked fine up until now. Still have to wait another 40 minutes right now.

ALso the first time this happened, my cable box shut off. I think this was b/c the first time I pulled the plug from the tv, to attempt to reset it. Tonight while trying to get output from my 6412 onto a D-VHS deck, when I plugged in a firewire cable to the cable box, it killed the cable box! So I think that's why, something in the firewire sends a signal to kill the cable box or something weird.

Has anybody had this problem though, with the TV kicking off after a small vibration sent through the floor?


TV is about 8-9 months old.

I've only had mine for a few days, but I will say when Dora the Explorer comes on and my 3 year old is watching it, I can guarantee a vibration table couldn't simulate the floor vibrations that I put into that TV and I have never had it shut off(knock on wood!)

Being a new user for the HLR5067W, my initial hookup from my motorolla 6412V3 was with the cable companies supplied component cables. I thought possibly that the HDMI cable would deliver a better picture, but I must admit that it doesn't. In standard definition picture reception, both digital and analog the component cable picture is far better. With the HDMI you can distintly see digital artifacts on the screen. I also made sure that the picture settings for both were exactly the same. For the HD picture, I cannot tell the difference between HDMI and component cables, so I have shelfed the HDMI cable for now.

One thing that I must say with this box is the picture using factory settings is marginally acceptable for HD and deplorable for SD pictures. Once you adjust the picture - Constrast 65, Brightness 55, Sharpness 40, Normal, the picture looks great. I have also changed in the service menu Index. My TV it started at 44 and changed it to 42 and did see a change in clarity and also color seems more accurate now. I don't know why Samsung would ship this TV with the color settings so far out. If I was an inexperience HD user, I would of returned the TV saying it had too much noise and artifacts. My last HDTV, a Toshiba DLP, required very little "tweeking" to make a great picture and the picture out of the box was very good.

It seems that i am not the only one with this gripe. So as long as it continues to work good and doesn't pop the bulb right away like my Toshiba, it seems we have a winner!

I own a samsung 30 inch widescreen hdtv that I currently have in my living room. Just curious is someone here would know if the lighting will effect the 56 inch dlp any worse than what I have going on with the 30 inch now. Its not awful but I do get a glare during the day. I'm going to get some darker shades or curtains. But that will be after I get the DLP. Thanks

I calibrated my DVD input a while back with the DVE disc. I kept the same settings for the other inputs. FWIW, I did the gamma and index tweaks then calibrated, ended up with 90 contrast, 65 brightness, 53 color and 2 sharpness. All was well, picture looked great and I was really happy, especially after about the first 100 hours of on time. This morning I was up early and HDNET was running a calibration test so I ran thru it to tweak my TV/HDMI input. My settings were pretty much right on for this input too EXCEPT the last test for "overscan." Where I should have been seeing a 3-4 on the pattern, it was ok on the top and bottom but only made it to 8 on the sides, leading me to beleive that the overscan was cutting off the edges/sides of the actual broadcast picture. What is overscan? Is this what is happening? Is there a further tweak for this? Is the HDNET test a little off too? Thanks!

Ok, I've had the TV for two weeks. Like it very much, and after making some adjustments a couple of days ago that didn't improve anything, now I'm making progress. I'll post my settings from the service menu when I'm finished.

Here's my question. The darks are looking better and better, but what I still see occasionally, is when there is like various dark background material, and say maybe a face in the foreground, the darks start looking like animation to a small degree and it almost seems like the TV doesn't know how to properly display that particular scene, so it varies back and forth from black to gray. I'm thinking there must be some sort of automatic density/contrast adjustment that is taking place. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for any advice. I think if i can resolve this I'll be pretty close to having it where i'm satisfied.

This has been a GREAT source of information, hopefully I can start contributing shortly.

Regards,
Bill Warren
I'm not sure if the problem you're describing is the same issue I had when I first purchased my 5067 (I had very poor PQ during dark scenes and with shadows), but you might want to try adjusting the Index setting in the SM and see if that makes any improvements. I currently have mine set at 42 (came from the factory set at 50). You can search this thread for "Index" for additional info.

I noticed the poor PQ in dark scenes before buying my DLP. It was so bad that I almost didn't buy it! In the end, I decided that I could probably tune it. There seems to be a consensus that the gamma needs to be raised from 0 to 2 and the index from 50 to 42? I haven't run DVE yet but want to resolve the Service Menu settings first. Do the SM settings fix artifacts in night shots? LOTR ROTK looked terrible during the invasion of Osgiliath with the clouds agains a dark sky.

Update: Looked at the SM last night and found that those values were already different from what has been reported earlier. In fact, they were 4 and 44 if I remember right.

Does anybody have a new set and can confirm these values are better now?

Seems like the DNIE has more to do with the artifacts from my DVD accross component than those values. It seems to enhance picture detail in most cases but doesn't handle black very well...lots more artifacts. Can anybody confirm this??

Would you guys consider this an exceptionally good deal?
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Samsung-56-DLP-HDTV-HL-R5667W-/sem/rpsm/oid/123075/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

Hi there, I apologize if this has been brought up but I tried a search and couldn't really find anything specific: Just got the HLR-4266W and had it hooked up via component and it looks good. Picked up an HDMI cable and hooked it up to my D* H20 and the TV doesn't recognize it being hooked up. Has this been a problem that's been identified with this model? (HDMI not working right out of the box) I really don't want to deal with returning it--is there anything that I can try, or does it just sound like the HDMI input on my TV is dead? Thanks in advance.

Not really. Check out TVauthority. Their main sales guy posts on this forum often and knows his stuff. Their prices are consistently a lot lower than the big chains (even with shipping). Their tech and sales support is top notch (in my opinion). You might find it cheaper from a grey-market dealer online but why chance it to save a few bucks. I don't want to sound like an ad but its hard to find good service and when I find a place that has it, I tell everybody.

Can anyone tell me where the 56'' version of this TV actually touches what its sitting on (i.e. where the feet are as far as width)? I'm trying to figure out if my stand at home is long enough because its a little shorter than the TV but depending on where the feet of the TV are it may work. Thanks for the help!

Hi there, I apologize if this has been brought up but I tried a search and couldn't really find anything specific: Just got the HLR-4266W and had it hooked up via component and it looks good. Picked up an HDMI cable and hooked it up to my D* H20 and the TV doesn't recognize it being hooked up. Has this been a problem that's been identified with this model? (HDMI not working right out of the box) I really don't want to deal with returning it--is there anything that I can try, or does it just sound like the HDMI input on my TV is dead? Thanks in advance.
Actually - I just had my HLR5067W serviced a few days ago - the guy put in a new analog board - and since he had an extra digital board with him - he put that in also. Wouldn't you know - no HDMI recoginzed on the brand new digital board - so he had to tear it back apart and put in my old digital board again. So it appears it can happen - just FYI.

edit: just to ease your mind - swapping out the digital and analog boards on the HLR appeared to me to be amazingly simple - much like doing a normal old motherboard swap on a PC (not even that complicated really) - so even if they need to give you a new digital board - I wouldn't sweat it.

Can anyone tell me where the 56'' version of this TV actually touches what its sitting on (i.e. where the feet are as far as width)? I'm trying to figure out if my stand at home is long enough because its a little shorter than the TV but depending on where the feet of the TV are it may work. Thanks for the help!
Just for reference sake, I have the HL-R5067 sitting on a TV stand that is not as wide as the TV. The TV hangs over the edges of the stand by about 4-5" on either side. I believe all of the feet are on the stand. I'll verify this when I get home tonight.

Can anyone tell me where the 56'' version of this TV actually touches what its sitting on (i.e. where the feet are as far as width)? I'm trying to figure out if my stand at home is long enough because its a little shorter than the TV but depending on where the feet of the TV are it may work. Thanks for the help! I think if you use the 28.82" wide in the drawing...Also that lower speaker bar will be about 3/4" above/off the stand beyond the 28.82" width on both sides.
http://product.samsung.com/pdf/hlr5667_dimensions.pdf

Would you guys consider this an exceptionally good deal?
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Samsung-56-DLP-HDTV-HL-R5667W-/sem/rpsm/oid/123075/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do
It was yesterday..... they raised the price back up. I screwed up and did not pull the trigger.

I have a quick question.
when i was looking in my SM - i noticed the top said 1080i
this is the hl-r4667w made in December 05 -

should it read like that?? i thought this was the 720p

thanks - just a little :confused:

I think if you use the 28.82" wide in the drawing...Also that lower speaker bar will be about 3/4" above/off the stand beyond the 28.82" width on both sides.
http://product.samsung.com/pdf/hlr5667_dimensions.pdf


Oh so it has a little silver stand on it? Awesome then I should definitely be good to go. Thanks!

Hi

my apologies if this has already been answered. I have a HLR6167w. I have my directv h20 reciever connected with the hdmi cable to the tv, and the optical audio out connected to my pioneer receiver for Dolby 5.1. Now for some reason i cannot get the tv to send the 5.1 audio to the reciever, the option in sound is greyd out. Now if I connect optical strait from the h20 to reciever I get 5.1 audio but its a little off sync. if i connect optical out from tv to receiver while using over the air antenna I get 5.1 audio. I dont have the sync issue using the optical audio out from tv to receiver but like i said im giving up the 5.1. Anyone know what im doing wrong that i cant get the dolby digital 5.1 activated when using the h20 hdmi - tv / tv optical out to receiver?

Would you guys consider this an exceptionally good deal?
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Samsung-56-DLP-HDTV-HL-R5667W-/sem/rpsm/oid/123075/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

I pulled the trigger on the HL-R5067W on Sunday when the price was really low at CC via web. That was an exceptionally good price for a local pick-up and interest free for 12 months. I had been waiting for months for a deal like that.

Now if I can only get my Avia disk back from my brother so I can tweak it out. I have this feeling that I will probably have to buy another one.

That (short-lived) CC deal was hard to pass up, but I went and looked at the 5067W and 5667W and couldn't get past the silk screen effect. I see sparklies everywhere dammit! I really wish I somehow didn't see them because that was a heck of a deal.

I think I'm resigned to the fact that rear projection is just not for me. :(

Hi

my apologies if this has already been answered. I have a HLR6167w. I have my directv h20 reciever connected with the hdmi cable to the tv, and the optical audio out connected to my pioneer receiver for Dolby 5.1. Now for some reason i cannot get the tv to send the 5.1 audio to the reciever, the option in sound is greyd out. Now if I connect optical strait from the h20 to reciever I get 5.1 audio but its a little off sync. if i connect optical out from tv to receiver while using over the air antenna I get 5.1 audio. I dont have the sync issue using the optical audio out from tv to receiver but like i said im giving up the 5.1. Anyone know what im doing wrong that i cant get the dolby digital 5.1 activated when using the h20 hdmi - tv / tv optical out to receiver?

There's nothing wrong with your setup. Unfortunately these Samsung TV's only pass 5.1 sound from OTA HD antenna's and nothing else.

I have a quick question.
when i was looking in my SM - i noticed the top said 1080i
this is the hl-r4667w made in December 05 -

should it read like that?? i thought this was the 720p

thanks - just a little :confused:

The set can display 1080i signals but it will scale it down to it's native 720P format.

I have a quick question.
when i was looking in my SM - i noticed the top said 1080i
this is the hl-r4667w made in December 05 -

should it read like that?? i thought this was the 720p

thanks - just a little :confused:

It is a 720P display! The 1080i designation you saw was an input signal designation. The set will only describe input signals. The output or display resolution is always 720P. Even when in the SM you are still receiving a signal.

Thank you...

:)

.....

They did ask which size set I had. This may indicate that the fix is specific, and does not use those inserts that widen the stand for the 50" and 56" models. No matter.

As I stated earlier, contact Veronica or Christine at ameriwood to order your new top section for the TR46X3.

Carl,

From later posts I know you have received your replacement top section. Is it still in three pieces but with more supporting area than your old one? I bought an HLR5067 last month together with a TR46X3 stand. The top seciton is in three pieces and may be the revised design. However, I still suspect this will resolve the sagging problem 100%. AFAIK, a three-piece design top support has far less bending rigidity than a one-piece top. Over time, the bottom part of the TV will still bend more or less. I just own this TV for <1 month but already noticed the bottom is slightly bending. I will wait and see if it will get worse.

I pulled the trigger on the HL-R5067W on Sunday when the price was really low at CC via web. That was an exceptionally good price for a local pick-up and interest free for 12 months. I had been waiting for months for a deal like that.

Now if I can only get my Avia disk back from my brother so I can tweak it out. I have this feeling that I will probably have to buy another one.

The 56" was only $50 more. Did you have space constraints?

The 56" was only $50 more. Did you have space constraints?

Yes. It had to fit within a 140 year old walnut armoire that has been converted into an entertainment center. My wife loves the piece and it works well within the room. The 50" model was as big as I could go.

For a few months now, I have dreamed of getting a Samsung DLP HDTV. After weeks, and many hours of research I found DLP to be the best technology for me, as it has zero chance of burn-in (which is common on rear-projection TVs, and is irrepairable..I have some on my current 52" GE HDTV (which is an ok TV))

So, it was my birthday on Tuesday, and just by chance my Mom was asking what my plan for the TV was, and I said that I'm just going to keep trying to save, but was having trouble (my cat was in the hospital for like 3 days a couple weeks ago, etc.) and was kinda depressed, plus I didn't get anything for my birthday really, which I didn't mind (I turned 19 by the way). Well, just to show her the TV, I went to Circuit City's website and looked at the TV, which I usually do like every week, and I checked the price just to see, and it was $1849 for the 56 inch! The 50 inch was $1799 and I'm not sure how low the other two were (the 42" and 46") Like 5 hours after I bought my TV they moved the price up $700 back up to $2564.

Anyways, my local store didn't have any, so they had to order it from distribution or whatever. They said it'll take a week, and then they'll call me to schedule a delivery. When do you think I should expect it? Is the week estimate accurate, or is it usually shorter or longer? I bought it on Tuesday evening by the way.

Would you guys consider this an exceptionally good deal?
http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Samsung-56-DLP-HDTV-HL-R5667W-/sem/rpsm/oid/123075/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do


I got my 61" for less than that from NICE ELECTRONICS 2 months ago. Its only 1890 now!

They have the 5667W for $1540 now. :) I think shipping on mine was like $270 or something. Beats CC

http://www.niceelectronics.com/Electronics/discr100558.htm

I recommend them. Bought it from Herb in sales.

Thanks, thats what I plan on doing as well. I noticed an 800 number on the rebate form so gave it a call yesterday. The CSR first told me 'all you need is the UPC barcode'. When I told her thanks for clarifying, since I wasn't sure due to the multiple barcodes she then said something to the effect of 'yeah, all we need to see is the UPC barcode along with the text that says the model number'.

Thats when I figured I'd play it safe and just send in one half of the sticker - haha.
I was just a little nervous about sending in both barcodes since the second barcode includes the serial number - but I registered the TV at Samsung's website with the serial number, so I now figure, whats the risk?

Still a little surprised they are offering a $149 DVD-Recorder for free, even if it is last year's model.

My DVD-RW showed up yesterday. Brand new in the box.. everything included.. including the Superbowl DVD.

Thanks Samsung!

I guess i'll just need to live with the slight lipsync delay. It doesnt seem all that bad. My receiver is older and doesnt have and delay function. Odd they would have an Optical audio out that only works from OTA.

Hi, I just received my 56 not too long ago. Still in the process of setting it up and calibrating it. This site and thread is very helpful. My question is, when I turn on the tv there is a buzzing sound coming from the set and goes away after a few seconds. The buzzing happens again when I turn off the tv, it's kinda loud. I just want to make sure that the buzzing is normal. Still new to the set so I can't elaborate more. Great site. Thanks, Steve

Hi, I just received my 56 not too long ago. Still in the process of setting it up and calibrating it. This site and thread is very helpful. My question is, when I turn on the tv there is a buzzing sound coming from the set and goes away after a few seconds. The buzzing happens again when I turn off the tv, it's kinda loud. I just want to make sure that the buzzing is normal. Still new to the set so I can't elaborate more. Great site. Thanks, Steve

Did your Circuit City have the TV in-stock, or did you have to wait for them to get it from distribution? How long to either way take?

My DVD-RW showed up yesterday. Brand new in the box.. everything included.. including the Superbowl DVD.

Thanks Samsung!

Great! - how long ago did you send your rebate in?

This is my first post of any real substance. I’ve been lurking in this thread for a few weeks and have been doing internet research for months. I saw the deal at Circuit City and decided to pull the trigger on the 5067. I know the 5667 was only $50 more, but a) my local CC did not have it in stock and b) I’m glad I didn’t get the 56, because the 50 is more than enough TV to fill my room which I view from about 9 feet. I could have gotten better deals than $1799 on the 5067 from CC. I know I could have had it delivered for about $1675. In the end, the peace of mind of being able to return the TV if I wanted to and the immediate satisfaction of buying the TV and setting it up quick was worth the $150 extra I paid for the TV.

So far, I’d rate my overall satisfaction of the TV as a 7 to 7.5. For the most part the HD channels are probably rated as an 8-8.5. However, I believe this has to do more with programming than the TV. I’m not very pleased with channels like ESPN, and specifically sportscenter. The newscast portion of SC is great, but whenever they show highlights from a college game or the world baseball classic I get a terrible fuzzy picture. On channels like Discovery HD or INHD, I’d say the PQ is a solid and impressive 10. I suppose it all depends on your signal and quality.

I am however very unpleased with SD PQ. I get a very fuzzy, grainy picture. On SD, my PQ was much better on my old 27” Magnavox. I just think if you pay $2000 for a HDTV it should be able to not only produce stellar HD signals, but also at least provide marginal SD channels. Does anyone know if there is a way to improve SD PQ? I am presently using component cables from the cable box to the TV. I am going to buy a DVI-HDMI cable and XBOX component cable today so that I can have DVI-HDMI for my cable, component for the DVD and XBOX.

I have noticed some minor lip sync issues, but unless I’m looking for it I don’t notice it. No RBE or SSE.

I have an older Philips DVD player which I probably won’t replace until the holiday season when Blu-Ray/HDVD comes out. It’s not a progressive scan and doesn’t upconvert, but I am very impressed with the PQ from the DVD player to the TV. I haven’t sat down to watch a movie in great length, but I put in Finding Nemo and the PQ and colors just popped. It looked really great and was very pleased. An easy 10 rating that will only improve with a better DVD player.

I haven’t had a chance to set up the XBOX yet and see if I have any issues, but will report back when I do.

One question for those with the TV. When I turn my TV on and off it makes this awful beeping video game noise to alert me the TV is turning on or shutting down. Anyway to turn this awful noise off in the menu?

I ordered my set from Am$zon. The first on was damaged so I got another one. Great price on Am$zon. Steve

So far, I’d rate my overall satisfaction of the TV as a 7 to 7.5. For the most part the HD channels are probably rated as an 8-8.5. However, I believe this has to do more with programming than the TV. On channels like Discovery HD or INHD, I’d say the PQ is a solid and impressive 10. I suppose it all depends on your signal and quality.

I am however very unpleased with SD PQ. I get a very fuzzy, grainy picture. On SD, my PQ was much better on my old 27” Magnavox. I just think if you pay $2000 for a HDTV it should be able to not only produce stellar HD signals, but also at least provide marginal SD channels. Does anyone know if there is a way to improve SD PQ? I am presently using component cables from the cable box to the TV. I am going to buy a DVI-HDMI cable and XBOX component cable today so that I can have DVI-HDMI for my cable, component for the DVD and XBOX.

I have noticed some minor lip sync issues, but unless I’m looking for it I don’t notice it. No RBE or SSE.

One question for those with the TV. When I turn my TV on and off it makes this awful beeping video game noise to alert me the TV is turning on or shutting down. Anyway to turn this awful noise off in the menu?


It's unfortunate that so many of the cable channels are still in SD mode but the good news is that situation will continue to improve. The PQ is all a matter of source - feed a lousy signal and you get a lousy picture. An HD set really shows how poor SD signals really are. Some brands may do a better job displaying SD programming than others, but it's really the HD quality that matters.

There is a menu option to disable sounds... can't remember exactly where it is, though.


Roger

In response to JoshHeines post above:

The reason for the switch you were seeing on sportcenter is that the clips they were showing were originated in SD or rebroadcast in SD, even though you were watching a HD broadcast. You will see that a lot depending on what types of things you are watching.

The problem with trying to upconvert SD video is there just isn't enough data in the picture to create a HD equivalent picture. Even with all the DSP processing SD can never be made to look as good as HD while converting in real-time. As it is, will all the processing there is enough delay induced with current technology that you start seeing things like lip-sync problems.

About the only suggestion I could give you is make sure you watch SD broadcasts in 4:3 mode, and don't use the TV's other modes to push the picture to 16x9 or zoom - that will just make the SD picture look even worse.

The good news is, after you have had the TV for a few weeks the SD picture quality won't seem quite as bad, I guess you just get used to it. I know that happened for me atleast.

- Al

Great! - how long ago did you send your rebate in?

I sent it in around and it was received around 2/16

I emailed them once about it and they replied quickly.

www.checkmyrebate.com

i was just wondering what calibration cd everyone uses and whats the best. i dont know much about them and i want to calibrate my new 56inch samsung. any info. would be appreciated. thanks.

~velore

I also have a calibration related question about the HL-R5067W.

If you use DVE or Avia to calibrate over the component connections - will those settings be universal for all of the inputs?

Since my cable box runs through the HDMI jack - I was wondering if I need to go get a HDMI DVD player in order to properly calibrate - or - if just calibrating with my existing Harman Kardon DVD 22 through the component connections would work.

Thanks in advance.

I also have a calibration related question about the HL-R5067W.

If you use DVE or Avia to calibrate over the component connections - will those settings be universal for all of the inputs?

Since my cable box runs through the HDMI jack - I was wondering if I need to go get a HDMI DVD player in order to properly calibrate - or - if just calibrating with my existing Harman Kardon DVD 22 through the component connections would work.

Thanks in advance.

No need for an HDMI connection. Component works fine for using a cal disc in the player. You have to transfer the setting values to each input. Don't be too upset if you find that they have jumped back to default. It's happened to me several times. The settings should work well for all inputs. That doesn't mean you won't want to tweak a little from one show to another. After all, that's what the adjustments are for. Content recording is never consistant.

One question for those with the TV. When I turn my TV on and off it makes this awful beeping video game noise to alert me the TV is turning on or shutting down. Anyway to turn this awful noise off in the menu?

Push Menu, go to Sound, More, Melody, Off

I sent it in around and it was received around 2/16
I emailed them once about it and they replied quickly.
www.checkmyrebate.com

Mine was received 2/20 and is currently 'pending final audit'

The funny thing is, I sumbitted the rebate online as well, but they generated a second tracking number for what I mailed in. Not sure what the point is of doing the online submission. :) From what I can tell the only difference is that I put in my 5-digit zip online, but they put in a 5+4 digit zip when they received it.

Hey guys,
been reading this thread since just before I made my purchase of an HLR4664W (HLR4667W in US). I have been tweaking my set and i am pretty happy with it so far, DVD's even with a non-progressive scan dvd player look good. I have had a bit of trouble getting a good setup for the picture settings. At first when I did it the picture for my PS2 (component) was way too dark and when i would walk towards an area that was suppose to be "shaded" or "slightly dark" it would go pitch black. So after tweaking a little bit and raising the brightness a couple steps and putting contrast way above what i thought was right I think I have a decent setting but would like any input.

Here are how I have my stuff setup now, I went into the Service Menu and my Gamma was at 2 and my Index was 43 (changed it to 42).

Ps2 (component cable), VCR (RCA)
Contrast: 65
Brightness:48
Sharpness:45
Color:55
Tint:50

Tv(Co-ax), DVD (RCA)
Contrast: 65
Brightness:41
Sharpness:45
Color:55
Tint:50

Stealth, or someone else with the HLR4664W that hasn't changed their DNIe settings in the service menu, can you check to see what your resolution_R setting is? I inadvertantly changed mine! Sorry Bill, I know that's what you cautioned us about :)

My index delay was 46 and I changed that to 43 and now both standard definition and high definition look better. I'm having ISF done soon, looking forward to even less macroblocking in dark scenes. I think DNIe helps SD so I am not changing anything, except if the ISF guy does.

The standard HDMI-DVI cables (like ones that come with the OPPO OPDV971H) are often full of sparklies and anyone interested should upgrade. All the reviewers seemed to love the BetterCables brand and sure enough, it got rid of those sparklies instantly, obviously a quality thing, so well worth it.

Default values of Index delay and Gamma are different b/w models (4267, 4667, 5067, ...) right? I remember someone said it was 50, but mine is 46 (for Index delay)

Are there different Index delay & Gamma settings in each mode (TV, Component, AV, ...) or just one?

Here’s an update on my recent purchase. I’ve had the TV for about 5 days now and a lot has changed. My primary sources of dissatifaction are with the SD and DVD PQ, but after watching Grey’s Anatomy last night in HD, it did not look up to par.

First off, the DVD. My DVD player is not a progressive scan or upconverting DVD player, but it does allow the use of component cables. We watched the widescreen version of the new Harry Potter film and it looked absolutely terrible. The most similar picture I could compare it too is a VHS tape that you’ve used to tape 100 things and are now watching the VHS tape. The dark scenes were absolutely unwatchable. There was pixelization all over the place and I could see horizontal lines at about 1” intervals. It was a miserable experience watching the movie and I really just didn’t want to watch towards the end.

How much will a progressive scan upconverting DVD player help this issue? The whole movie was pretty dark and a lot of good movies are dark, ie Matrix or Star Wars.

Next, SD PQ. I understand that SD won’t ordinarily look as good as a CRT RPTV because of the analog v. digital factors and that digital tvs will show more noise. The question is how can I reduce noise to get the best SD PQ possible? Will one of those Monster or other name brand noise reducers help the PQ? What can I do to get a better SD PQ? I currently have component cables from the cable box to the TV, will a DVI to HDMI help? Will a “better” cable coaxial from the wall to the box help? Anything??

Also, as I said earlier, Grey’s Anatomy didn’t look that good. I noticed a fair amount of pixelization in some of the darker areas or in areas that had similar color schemes.

Finally, it’s not all bad. I watched Equator on Discovery HD. It was an absolutely stunning picture. Discovery does HD the way it’s meant to be. Luckily, Discovery is one of my favorite channels. I don’t think the big 4 locals do HD properly, the picture is usually good, but nothing like Discovery. I can’t wait to watch Lost on HD. If there’s one show on basic that should look jaw-dropping it’s Lost.

But, in sum, my questions are:

1) Will a progressive scan/upconverting DVD player provide better dark pictures with less pixelizaiton, and generally a better PQ overall?
2) What can I do to improve my SD PQ?

Default values of Index delay and Gamma are different b/w models (4267, 4667, 5067, ...) right? I remember someone said it was 50, but mine is 46 (for Index delay)

Are there different Index delay & Gamma settings in each mode (TV, Component, AV, ...) or just one?

The SM values are not just different from model to model. They are different from light engine to light engine in the same model. Not all light engines perform exactly the same. In fact, Samsung uses two different light engines and two different lamps in our same model. Some guy on here might tell you his gamma and index settings for an Osram lamp in a Zeuss light engine and you might have a Samsung light engine with a Phillips lamp. I guess I'm saying default is not universal for a model. Don't go by someone elses values. Make adjustments until it looks good for you.

But, in sum, my questions are:

1) Will a progressive scan/upconverting DVD player provide better dark pictures with less pixelizaiton, and generally a better PQ overall?
2) What can I do to improve my SD PQ?
Search this thread for "Index". An adjustment to the Index Delay in the SM should help with the PQ of dark scenes. It did for me.

joshheines, have you used avia/dve disks for calibration (try it using your custom user setting menu page) and also made the suggested index delay setting change in the service menu? you may find you are happier with a little tweaking. you should get a good progressive scan player for dvd and one that upconverts to native resolution of the display, 720p, for pixel to pixel matching. i had a philips 963sa and while the pq was o.k. it is clearly not as good as the oppo for that reason. do read about it and the difference a highly rated up-converting player can make on http://www.hometheaterhifi.com. and yes, using component rather than digital cable is a mistake imo, even though it IS better than s-video or composite. you're still thinking in 2003/2004 terms. why use anything analog after having gone through trouble of having upgraded to digital monitor? btw, monoprice makes excellent (really low) price cable, comes recommended by experts here, and are one of avs sponsors. check it out. hope this helps.

i cant find the thread which explains how to get in the service menu. can someone tell me how? thanks. i also was wondering if the index delay is different based on the screen size, i have heard suggestions that 42 is where most are putting it. i have the 56 inch and am thinking of making the same adjustment, is this a good idea?

~velore

Has anyone had any problems with a 5067 locking up? I have had it happen to me twice in about a month of ownership. The TV simply stops responding to any input from the remote and even the power button on the unit will not shut it down. My only recourse has been to recycle the power by pulling the plug. Weird Huh? Other than this the TV has been flawless.

joshheines, have you used avia/dvd disks for calibration (try it using your custom user setting menu page) and also made the suggested index delay setting change in the service menu? you may find you are happier with a little tweaking. you should get a good progressive scan player for DVD and one that upconverts to native resolution of the display, 720p, for pixel to pixel matching. i had a Philips 963sa and while the pq was o.k. it is clearly not as good as the opp for that reason. do read about it and the difference a highly rated up-converting player can make on http://www.hometheaterhifi.com. and yes, using component rather than digital cable is a mistake IMO, even though it IS better than s-video or composite. you're still thinking in 2003/2004 terms. why use anything analog after having gone through trouble of having upgraded to digital monitor? BTW, monoprice makes excellent (really low) price cable, comes recommended by experts here, and are one of avs sponsors. check it out. hope this helps.

If HDMI works for you, Rocky01, that's great.

Saying component cabling is a mistake is not an accurate statement.
Some cable and sat boxes simply don't do digital very well. The same can be said for some DVD players. The idea that digital is superior is completely false. These methods are new and full of bugs. Case in point is that the H10 sat receiver has gone through three firmware upgrades in less than a year for HDMI compatibility upgrades to correct darkness, frame errors, and artifacts. Cable boxes are no different. Only up-converting DVD players have DVI/HDMI outputs. There are lots of folks like myself that find no significant picture improvement with these up-converting digital players over a standard player. Our set will scale the 480i signal just as good if not better.

Analog isn't old hat when it comes to HD. It's more often the preferred method.

Here is a quote from an article addressing the issue.

"The argument often made for the DVI or HDMI signal formats is the "pure digital" argument--that by taking a digital recording, such as a DVD or a digital satellite signal, and rendering it straight into digital form as a DVI or HDMI signal, and then delivering that digital signal straight to the display, there is a sort of a perfect no-loss-and-no-alteration-of-information signal chain. If the display itself is a native digital display (e.g. an LCD or Plasma display), the argument goes, the signal never has to undergo digital-to-analog conversion and therefore is less altered along the way.

That might be true, were it not for the fact that digital signals are encoded in different ways and have to be converted, and that these signals have to be scaled and processed to be displayed. Consequently, there are always conversions going on, and these conversions aren't always easy going. "Digital to digital" conversion is no more a guarantee of signal quality than "digital to analog," and in practice may be substantially worse. Whether it's better or worse will depend upon the circuitry involved--and that is something which isn't usually practical to figure out. As a general rule, with consumer equipment, one simply doesn't know how signals are processed, and one doesn't know how that processing varies by input. Analog and digital inputs must either be scaled through separate circuits, or one must be converted to the other to use the same scaler. How is that done? In general, you won't find an answer to that anywhere in your instruction manual, and even if you did, it would be hard to judge which is the better scaler without viewing the actual video output. It's fair to say, in general, that even in very high-end consumer gear, the quality of circuits for signal processing and scaling is quite variable."

My advise to everyone is to try both connection methods with your specific equipment and judge the image quality yourself. Never take one person's experience for fact. Digital processing is not an exact science and is not practiced the same universally. Some digital equipment match-ups simply don't work well.

i cant find the thread which explains how to get in the service menu. can someone tell me how? thanks. i also was wondering if the index delay is different based on the screen size, i have heard suggestions that 42 is where most are putting it. i have the 56 inch and am thinking of making the same adjustment, is this a good idea?

~velore

Page 30, post 891

Hope you read my post 2237 on this page!

Has anyone had any problems with a 5067 locking up? I have had it happen to me twice in about a month of ownership. The TV simply stops responding to any input from the remote and even the power button on the unit will not shut it down. My only recourse has been to recycle the power by pulling the plug. Weird Huh? Other than this the TV has been flawless.

You need a service call!

That's a sign of a firmware problem. If you must unplug the set be sure to plug it back in and power up quickly. Otherwise, your lamp will overheat and fail.

Crazy question time.

I have the hlr4667w, and so far, love it.

My only point of grief is that the table I bought for it, from IKEA's Liatorp line, is too high.
When sitting on the couch, our eyeline is just slightly above the "Samsung" logo,
which leads to a minor dimming at the top of the screen.

Now my wife is not going to notice, but it is going to bug me over time.

Would it be insanely bad if I tilted the unit forward? Maybe just raising the back end just an inch or so?

Unfortunately there is only one base height offered, so my options are limited.

thanks for any input.

exparrot - I have the exact same issue. I personally have empty DVD movie cases under my HLR4667W (in the very back corners), which is just enough to give the tv a small tilt to the front.

I entered into the SM last night and changed my Index to 42 and Gamma to 2. I watched mostly HD programming last night and it looked much better, but the real improvement was in watching Harry Potter. My wife and I watched the maze scene that is very dark and the camera tends to move a lot. When we first watched it, the scene was filled with artifacts and pixelization. This time it looked pretty good considering I have an older DVD player. Maybe I’ll test out LOTR or Star Wars tonight.

The SM settings also appeared to help out the SD a little bit too.

One last question for everyone: I notice little “sparklies” on the screen. I think it tends to be on the lighter colors. Anyone know what this is and if there is a way to erase it?

Thanks for comment Hi-Rez! As you know I was speaking from my experience. And I'm no videophile, more of an audiophile backing into video. I just read reviews of the Oppo and found it absolutely did look better than the Philips 963SA. All I know is I like the upconverting, at least on this player and I'm watching all my DVDs all over again and feeling smart for buying another DVD player in just couple years time. I was ready to send it back unless it knocked my socks off. I have a sat box not a cable box and HDMI and DVI connectors stood head and shoulders over component. And of course I found I had to change all my settings on DLP projector, for example, after moving to the DVI connector, so it's important to compare apples with apples. Component isn't awful on the DLP projector but it's second rate to good DVI cable. Both cables should be excellent quality before you can make a sound determination. I've heard that some cable settop boxes and cable stations are really bad. On satellite, there are some severely compressed signals as well, with lots of artifacts but even those look better on the Samsung using DVI/HDMI. Component video cables do seem to soften some really out-of-whack channels (PAX) and makes for a more pleasing picture in those instances but they are few and far between at least where I am. Note that I've yet to have Samsung set calibrated, I've just used the Avia disc like I have for some years now. I'm genuinely excited to see what professional tuning (correct grey scale, etc) can do. Looking forward to getting rid of clay faces and being able to watch SD and HD without cringing. Trying not to think about how good top of line 34" Sony XBR tube looked (before BestBuy sold out of them) until then. :)

I am the type that likes to watch SD tv in 4:3 with the bars on the side. My question to you experts is--is that going to cause problems in the future? I know that DLP doesn't suffer from burn-in, right?

Crazy question time.

I have the hlr4667w, and so far, love it.

My only point of grief is that the table I bought for it, from IKEA's Liatorp line, is too high.
When sitting on the couch, our eyeline is just slightly above the "Samsung" logo,
which leads to a minor dimming at the top of the screen.

Now my wife is not going to notice, but it is going to bug me over time.

Would it be insanely bad if I tilted the unit forward? Maybe just raising the back end just an inch or so?

Unfortunately there is only one base height offered, so my options are limited.

thanks for any input.

How close are you sitting? I've got mine in an armoir that puts the base just above eye level. Sitting about 9-10' away there is no noticable light fall off at all. If I lay down on the floor half way between the couch and tv it is noticable. You must be sitting pretty close.

Here’s an update on my recent purchase. I’ve had the TV for about 5 days now and a lot has changed. My primary sources of dissatifaction are with the SD and DVD PQ, but after watching Grey’s Anatomy last night in HD, it did not look up to par.

First off, the DVD. My DVD player is not a progressive scan or upconverting DVD player, but it does allow the use of component cables. We watched the widescreen version of the new Harry Potter film and it looked absolutely terrible. The most similar picture I could compare it too is a VHS tape that you’ve used to tape 100 things and are now watching the VHS tape. The dark scenes were absolutely unwatchable. There was pixelization all over the place and I could see horizontal lines at about 1” intervals. It was a miserable experience watching the movie and I really just didn’t want to watch towards the end.

How much will a progressive scan upconverting DVD player help this issue? The whole movie was pretty dark and a lot of good movies are dark, ie Matrix or Star Wars.

Also, as I said earlier, Grey’s Anatomy didn’t look that good. I noticed a fair amount of pixelization in some of the darker areas or in areas that had similar color schemes.

But, in sum, my questions are:

1) Will a progressive scan/upconverting DVD player provide better dark pictures with less pixelizaiton, and generally a better PQ overall?
2) What can I do to improve my SD PQ?

It sounds like your harry potter issue is mostly a DVD player or setup problem. Granted, it's not HD but it should look pretty good. A progressive scan player in theory offers better quality. As far as upconversion, remember that your tv does 720p conversion for almost everything in the end. As has been discussed, your player, connection, and settings will be unique so you need to find what works for you. You can get an *good* upconverting DVD player that uses HDMI and see some improvement if it's better than the conversion in your set. I am waiting for HD-DVD before I buy anything better than a regular pro scan player using component. It will obviously have HDMI and output 1080p but since the set is 720p, why not match it from the start. I guess 1080i might have some advantages but, from what I hear, 1080p is out of the question for this model. A new player wont do much for the dark issue. I saw that problem in the store and am working on getting it fixed throught the SM and DVE disk.
Spend some time bonding with the owners manual on your DVD player. I've seen setup problems too lik not outputing the right signal accross the component or a loose component cable totally destroy your picture. The gamma fix sould fix your DVD dark issues. From what I know, each input has its own settings only change it on the DVD input. What is good for one source will not be good for all. There is a huge difference between OTA and DVD settings. Hope that helps.

I know that DLP doesn't suffer from burn-in, right?

I'm positive that is doesn't .... I think.

Kidding... no - no burn in at all - enjoy your 4:3 all you want. I watch all my 4:3 in stretch mode, and it doesn't bother me at all really.

If HDMI works for you, Rocky01, that's great.

Saying component cabling is a mistake is not an accurate statement.
Some cable and sat boxes simply don't do digital very well. The same can be said for some DVD players. The idea that digital is superior is completely false. These methods are new and full of bugs. Case in point is that the H10 sat receiver has gone through three firmware upgrades in less than a year for HDMI compatibility upgrades to correct darkness, frame errors, and artifacts. Cable boxes are no different. Only up-converting DVD players have DVI/HDMI outputs. There are lots of folks like myself that find no significant picture improvement with these up-converting digital players over a standard player. Our set will scale the 480i signal just as good if not better.

My advise to everyone is to try both connection methods with your specific equipment and judge the image quality yourself. Never take one person's experience for fact. Digital processing is not an exact science and is not practiced the same universally. Some digital equipment match-ups simply don't work well.

Right on Rez,

I see posts in here that are directly contradictory to what I've seen on my setup and I shake my head. I don't know how or why - but people claim component is better than HDMI for them -- fine, but for me HDMI looks WAY better on the SD cable programming, and component looks about the same on DVD as HDMI. As for the HD content - can't really tell a difference one way or the other.

For those up-conversion DVD players, I couldn't tell a major difference either, so I advise my friends to just hang on until HD DVD arrives.

I've come to believe that the slight improvements of component vs. HDMI (whichever way you fall) is far less noticeable than the quality of the mastering of the broadcast whether it be a DVD or cable feed or source mastering of HD content. Some channels look better than others, some programs look better than others, and many DVD's look better than others (thanks SUPERBIT).

Trial and error will = better results than relying on any 'ABSOLUTE' information presented here IMO.

And why did Time Warner take off the Universal HD channel??? They were showing Battlestar Galactica in HD! now I'm back to SD on Sci - Fi.... : ( boooo hoooo!

Happy Viewing!

I am the type that likes to watch SD tv in 4:3 with the bars on the side. My question to you experts is--is that going to cause problems in the future? I know that DLP doesn't suffer from burn-in, right?

Right! Won't hurt a thing!

I don't like a distorted 4:3 image, either.

Right on Rez,

I ...and component looks about the same on DVD as HDMI. As for the HD content - can't really tell a difference one way or the other.

For those up-conversion DVD players, I couldn't tell a major difference either, so I advise my friends to just hang on until HD DVD arrives.

I've come to believe that the slight improvements of component vs. HDMI (whichever way you fall) is far less noticeable than the quality of the mastering of the broadcast whether it be a DVD or cable feed or source mastering of HD content. Some channels look better than others, some programs look better than others, and many DVD's look better than others (thanks SUPERBIT).

Trial and error will = better results than relying on any 'ABSOLUTE' information presented here IMO.
...
Happy Viewing!
exactley!

Must be me today ... of course YMMV! Absolutes? Give it a rest. That's what IMO means, good grief. This is supposed to be an information exchange.

Definitely must be me today, since I'm usually way more interested in what others think, than what I have to say: I already know what I think. Not that everyone you meet on these things is trying to be constructive. Allright, that settles it, I must be cranky.

I decided to take the plunge and have my set professionally calibrated and it looks terrific. I got my set on 1/20 and before the 30 days to swap it came I paid a little more to have the calibrator look at it to make sure it was a keeper. Found out my picture was shifted slightly right (overscan), grayscale was waaaay off, was overly green (even my untrained eye saw this) and color temperatures skewed to blue especially in the whites (didn't notice that) and lots of noise and edge enhancement. Got the picture centered and once grayscale was set correctly black, white and everything in between looks much, much better. Turned off DNIe in the service menu combined with other adjustments and changed the gamma. Turning off DNIe and gamma were not done like flipping a switch it was combined with other adjustments. He did many more adjustments and it improved substantially. I'm sure I am forgetting what all he did (the calibration report is 4 pages long). My DVD player was also calibrated and that input was included.

I was surprised at how much better everything looked. I immediately noticed the noise and edge enhancement being gone. Grayscale affects the PQ in everyway and better blacks, better everything was also apparent. The color wheel was fine tuned and the color temperature being set correctly further enhanced the overall effect.

I'm glad I decided to have it done professionally. I thought it looked good before but now it looks great. For me it was worth the money since even though I got a great deal on the set, I wanted it to look the best it could. Hope this helps anyone who may be on the fence about getting a ISF calibration.

FWIW, I am using the HDMI cable to my HD DVR and component to my DVD player.

Must be me today ... of course YMMV! Absolutes? Give it a rest. That's what IMO means, good grief. This is supposed to be an information exchange.

Definitely must be me today, since I'm usually way more interested in what others think, than what I have to say: I already know what I think. Not that everyone you meet on these things is trying to be constructive. Allright, that settles it, I must be cranky.

rocky you must be cranky! that post was not aimed at you or anybody else - only that if you read this entire thread and others - people swear by one thing and site facts, specs and all sorts of 'data' when what I'm saying is - some of it works and some of it don't.... that's all. Try, test, change, experiement and be assured that the exact same settings for my tv won't look the same to you - only possibly help tweak them towards something better at best.

no worries dude - go out in the kitchen and pour a double of whatever cures your ills and go watch a good movie. I just watched the interpreter and was surprised how much I liked it... and even more shocked at how good Nicole looked.

Hey folks.. I've been lurking on this forum for the past month since I got my 50" Sammy. I have what might be a silly question. I ordered the Avia home theater disc per recommendation to calibrate my tv. Everything seems honky dorry till I get to color calibration and it tells me to use a blue filter. How do I do that?

Chapel,

It's pretty simple really. Avia will show you what the test pattern is suppose to look like when viewed through the blue filter. That's just a little strip of blue plastic that came with the disc. Run the test pattern, look through the blue"filter" and adjust your color and tint controls to get it to match up to the demo.

i'm looking to get the 46'' version of this. i know there is the audio video sync issue.

what ms delays are you guys having your receivers do? 70 ms? 200 ms?

i don't know if i should find another brand that doesn't have this issue (i haven't researched other models extensively), has audio/vidoe delay option (if they do have that) ot suck it up and just buy a new receiver with audio delay?

thanks

even if i did buy a new receiver, i need to know how many ms delays i should be looking for.

i'm looking to get the 46'' version of this. i know there is the audio video sync issue.

what ms delays are you guys having your receivers do? 70 ms? 200 ms?

i don't know if i should find another brand that doesn't have this issue (i haven't researched other models extensively), has audio/vidoe delay option (if they do have that) ot suck it up and just buy a new receiver with audio delay?

thanks

even if i did buy a new receiver, i need to know how many ms delays i should be looking for.

I get the impression that you think it's some major constant problem. It's not! My receiver has no delay. Lip/sync is such a rare occurrence that I'm not inclined to seek any remedies. I'm talking maybe a time or two per month. Seems very content specific to me.

That said, If I were seeking a remedy I would look for 200ms or more just to have it available.

Yes, I decided it was me yesterday. No harm intended. Blaming it conveniently on having two Starbucks red eyes in one day, a first. :)

I haven't noticed lip sync issues with that model and I have noticed lip sync issues with Dish HD receiver though, long before I got the Samsung and it's not present most of the time, just on occassion. I wouldn't expect it to be an issue .

i'm looking to get the 46'' version of this. i know there is the audio video sync issue.

what ms delays are you guys having your receivers do? 70 ms? 200 ms?

i don't know if i should find another brand that doesn't have this issue (i haven't researched other models extensively), has audio/vidoe delay option (if they do have that) ot suck it up and just buy a new receiver with audio delay?

thanks

even if i did buy a new receiver, i need to know how many ms delays i should be looking for.

I do have consistent lip sync issues, and they vary by source - DVD vs. Cablebox vs. over the air HD....

My most frequent settings are 95 ms and 130 ms for the DVD and cablebox inputs. This bring it nearly spot on. I've never seen anything over 150 ms so the 200 ms 'window' seems adequate for all situations I've seen.

FYI - lip sync issues are a 'floating' phenomena - as every channel has different sync settings. I'm nearly positive this is a combination of both the source resolution of video (480i, 720p, 1080i) having to be converted to the 720p native of the tv, as well as the mastering of the source - they get them off sometimes too. You'll chase your tail crazy trying to find a setting that fits 'all' situations in my opinion, so just try and not focus on it.

Much like the rainbow effect people mention - lip sync issues are something you notice if you try, but if you just plop down after a week of not thinking about it - you shouldn't notice it until it's about 75-100 ms off.

And if you already have a nice reciever - consider the Felston DD540 Digital Delay... it works flawlessly (with remote!). A bit pricey - but perfect for the discerning anal rententive videophile. www.felston.com It is available in the US through these guys (great tech-heads who know their stuff too - you can get caught up in a tech conversation for an hour if you don't watch out). http://lipfix.com/

Cheers!

Yes, I decided it was me yesterday. No harm intended. Blaming it conveniently on having two Starbucks red eyes in one day, a first. :)

I haven't noticed lip sync issues with that model and I have noticed lip sync issues with Dish HD receiver though, long before I got the Samsung and it's not present most of the time, just on occassion. I wouldn't expect it to be an issue .

hmmm I'm a coffee addict with high blood pressure so I'm afraid to ask... what is a red eye? Sounds like an expresso spiked with red bull.... should be called a jumper cable if so...

Red-eye is your favorite roast (dark if you're manly :)) with a shot of expresso. Black-eye is with a double shot. Do not have have relatives' kids over after you drink either, LOL. Ah, their marketing genius. Let me know right before you go try it, so I can buy some of their stock first :D

i noticed it has an optical out....if i use optical out of tv to receiver optical in, will the lip sync issue dissapear?

i'm gonna buy it anways. i'll get a new receiver if i need to.

i noticed it has an optical out....if i use optical out of tv to receiver optical in, will the lip sync issue dissapear?

i'm gonna buy it anways. i'll get a new receiver if i need to.
Optical won't make a difference. I've only seen lip-sync issues a few times so I just live with it for now. The only way to fix it is to get a receiver with a delay setting. When you get it, just pick a setting and adjust it over time...some shows/sources may have different lag time anyway.

Red-eye is your favorite roast (dark if you're manly :)) with a shot of expresso. Black-eye is with a double shot. Do not have have relatives' kids over after you drink either, LOL. Ah, their marketing genius. Let me know right before you go try it, so I can buy some of their stock first :D

Hehe - well, that sounds harmless enough... nothing like the kids in college who are using the caffeinated water to make their coffee for finals... hehe.

relative's kids are aggravating enough without caffeine... i can imagine what you went through!

I get the impression that you think it's some major constant problem. It's not! My receiver has no delay. Lip/sync is such a rare occurrence that I'm not inclined to seek any remedies. I'm talking maybe a time or two per month. Seems very content specific to me.

That said, If I were seeking a remedy I would look for 200ms or more just to have it available.

I've had the 466w 42" for about 3 weeks now, and I've had NO sync issues whatsoever, except those that occur due to my cable company... I had Law And Order on TNT HD last week nd the sound was way off, so I turned on one of my regular TVs and went to the normal TNT channel, and it was doing it there too. It seems that TNT has problems with that a lot, but that test tells me it's not my TV.


Ken

i gave in and just ordered the tv. 1539 shipped from amazon (i just called b/c my a9 credit didnt show up so hopefully i get 23 bucks back). i saw it at frys and best buy and they were both 2100+tax so i ended up saving ~730 dollars.

ok i'm crossing my fingers i don't have sync issues. hope it comes in time for march madness! does anyone know if you can schedule delivery past 5 pm?

[QUOTE=MoInSTL]I decided to take the plunge and have my set professionally calibrated and it looks terrific. ...
I was surprised at how much better everything looked. I immediately noticed the noise and edge enhancement being gone. Grayscale affects the PQ in everyway and better blacks, better everything was also apparent. The color wheel was fine tuned and the color temperature being set correctly further enhanced the overall effect.

I'm glad I decided to have it done professionally. I thought it looked good before but now it looks great. For me it was worth the money since even though I got a great deal on the set, I wanted it to look the best it could. Hope this helps anyone who may be on the fence about getting a ISF calibration.

[\QUOTE]

Out of curiosity, about how much did the calibration cost you, how did you select your vendor, and how long did the process take?


Roger

i noticed it has an optical out....if i use optical out of tv to receiver optical in, will the lip sync issue dissapear?

i'm gonna buy it anways. i'll get a new receiver if i need to.

I have the Motorola DCT6412. I have it connected to the HLR5067 by DVI, component, and IEEE 1394. Audio for the first two is via digital outputs from the cable box to a receiver, from the third is via optical from the tv to the receiver. Once I noticed a lip-sync problem on both DVI and component. When I switched to firewire it went away.

Thanks for the feedback.

Now I must be retarded but I've searched and cannot find a thread for tweaks/adjustments for the HLR 720p service menu. All I see are threads (tweaks, calibration etc) for the HLR 1080p model. Can someone point me to it??

Thanks for the feedback.

Now I must be retarded but I've searched and cannot find a thread for tweaks/adjustments for the HLR 720p service menu. All I see are threads (tweaks, calibration etc) for the HLR 1080p model. Can someone point me to it??

it wasn't that far back - look around pages 60-65 or thereabouts...

Got my HLR5667 last week--first time Samsung and widescreen TV owner. The picture was fantastic--until it died on Day 2. The service tech replaced the bulb--no go. Finally replaced the DMD and core and the picture was great again. Thank goodness for the warranty. Anyways, for most widescreen movies, the picture ratio comes out correct (I have a Denon 1920 DVD player set on 16:9, 720p, HDMI); however, on some WS movies (e.g. Armageddon and Feet of Flames), the picture appears squashed vertically with too much black bars on top/bottom of the screen (the TV is set on 16:9). If I change either the DVD player, or the TV to 4:3, the picture ratio appears correct but then I only use the middle portion of the screen. Any ideas?

For those of you guys with Tivos and HD cable boxes.....

I have Series 1 hacked to 130 hours. I just picked up the HD cable box from time warner (Scientific Atlanta 3250 HD). How do you guys hook up the Tivo/cable box to the tv?

Do you:
1. use component/DVI or what?
2. more importantly my Tivo only has S-video inputs. Do you hook up the cable box to the TV using component/DVI etc and digital out to the receiver to watch HDTV. And ALSO use the s-video out and analog LR audio from the cable box to the Tivo and from the tivo use tivo s-video out and analog LR audio out for watching non HDTV? I know this is a little hard to explain, but when I want to watch HDTV I want to watch it in its full glory with 5.1 and not have my tivo loose the sound. When I'm not watching HDTV, I want to use my Tivo and all its functions. I figure I could change input source on TV when I want to watch HDTV and change input source when I just want to watch standard TV. Does anyone understand what I am saying? Thanks

For those of you guys with Tivos and HD cable boxes.....

I have Series 1 hacked to 130 hours. I just picked up the HD cable box from time warner (Scientific Atlanta 3250 HD). How do you guys hook up the Tivo/cable box to the tv?

Do you:
1. use component/DVI or what?
2. more importantly my Tivo only has S-video inputs. Do you hook up the cable box to the TV using component/DVI etc and digital out to the receiver to watch HDTV. And ALSO use the s-video out and analog LR audio from the cable box to the Tivo and from the tivo use tivo s-video out and analog LR audio out for watching non HDTV? I know this is a little hard to explain, but when I want to watch HDTV I want to watch it in its full glory with 5.1 and not have my tivo loose the sound. When I'm not watching HDTV, I want to use my Tivo and all its functions. I figure I could change input source on TV when I want to watch HDTV and change input source when I just want to watch standard TV. Does anyone understand what I am saying? Thanks

Go back to Time Warner and get the SA 8300 HD DVR and use your tivo for a SD set. Pay the $5 extra per month and don't sweat the hookups... it's all in one and does a great job and has HDMI output. http://www.sciatl.com/consumers_new/CableBoxes/8300hd.htm

Out of curiosity, about how much did the calibration cost you, how did you select your vendor, and how long did the process take?

Roger

I am in St. Louis and frequent the local AVS board. An ISF calibrator posts regularly in the same forum. I visited his web site and asked a lot of questions before I purchased my set. He also offered some buying advice in regards to a DLP. (I had already decided on DLP). I then sent private messages to a couple of forum members asking for their opinion on his work. I got glowing recommendations.

He was here from 4 until 11. But we hung out a lot and I made pizza and chocolate chip cookies. :) It was very informal but he was all business in terms of the actual calibration. He probably would have only taken 2 hours or so to actually calibrate both components. Perhaps more, but because we talked a lot and ate it's hard to say.

He charges $400 and that includes up to 3 inputs but I only had the 2. The rate is determined by a number of things I suppose. The region, type of set, etc. He has a lot of experience, training and equipment. So some may charge the same or less. I received a detailed four page report and learned quite a bit. He offered to come back to adjust it if for any reason I think it's needed. I am very pleased with the results. If you are interested I suggest visiting your local area forum, asking around there and the calibration forum. Read a lot and ask alot of questions like you are doing here.

For those of you guys with Tivos and HD cable boxes.....



We're not all guys. :) Women, at least this woman, have home theater systems too. I'm sure you meant guys in the generic sense right?

of course!

i asked on the tivo forums and FYI for those with the same issue you either have 2 choices:

1. the way i originally planned is to both output to the TV via HD inputs and analog to the Tivo and switch input sources from the TV b/w the two when you need to.
2. split the signal and rent another cable box or card but this costs more money and according to the Time Warner CSR, the cable card does not receive TNT nor Discovery HD. plus i can't believe that Time Warner was going to charge 34 dollars for installation of a cable card!

Posted a couple pages back that my 5667 was just turning off on me w/o warning, and flashing the lights indicating the rear lamp cover was open. Placed a service call Tuesday, they just came this morning.

The guy got here, listened to me for 15 seconds, and said "I'll just replace the digital board" I was surprised, but definety not complaining to get a brand new one. Lamp and everything was replaced, so I got a brand new lamp out of the deal!

I could have made this symptom up, it could not be produced on demand. But I got a new lamp/board out of the deal!

Also, after he had it in and turned back on, he went into a service menu, but I was not sure if this was the mute 1-8-2 one. The TV was already on, and he pressed some buttons on the remote, and checked a couple things. The menu was similar in layout and transparency to the regular on screen menu. Was this the service menu that you get in to when the TV is off, and hitting mute 1 8 2 then power, or whatever it is?

Or is this another menu?

Welcome me to the club guys! I just purchased my 2nd HDTV in 7yrs. The HL-R5667W for a super price from Amazon! I'm so excited I just can't stop using exclamation points!!!!!:)

Aside from reading through this thread (and what a thread it is!), is there anything I should know? I probably won't have the stand by the time they deliver it, so I'll probably have to keep it in another room until then.

Also, I need a stand. I was looking at a few at Walmart. The one I noticed in particular was "Ashton Lane Collection" TV Stand. It's dimensions were 20"Hx21"Dx47.75"W. Is that big enough to hold the unit? I don't know how much of the base the display sits on to tell how wide/deep of a stand I need.

IE: Would the TechCraft Monaco DLP48X (http://techcraft.net/htm/products/monaco/dlp48x.htm) be wide enough, or would I need the TechCraft Monaco DLP58X (http://techcraft.net/htm/products/monaco/dlp58x.htm)? The 48X should be wide enough, correct? The 58X only costs a few dollars more, but I don't want to purchase any larger than I have to.

Also, the 48X is 22 1/4"H and the 58X is only 15 3/4"H. Higher is OK, correct? I think higher would be better in my case as I have two cats who I am concerned with climbing anyways.

I found both those stands for <$130 shipped.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also, the 48X is 22 1/4"H and the 58X is only 15 3/4"H. Higher is OK, correct? I think higher would be better in my case as I have two cats who I am concerned with climbing anyways.


Higher may not be better. I saw posts in this thread mentioned if the TV is positioned higher than necessary the picture near the top of the screen may look dark when you watch sitting on sofa. In that case you may need to lean it forward a little bit.

Higher may not be better. I saw posts in this thread mentioned if the TV is positioned higher than necessary the picture near the top of the screen may look dark when you watch sitting on sofa. In that case you may need to lean it forward a little bit.22" isn't that high. The Samsung stand is only 19" high, so 15 1/2" is pretty low.

How about the CAB50 (http://techcraft.net/htm/products/cab/cab50.htm)? 17 1/2"h* 50"w*21 1/2"d? Think it would fit that?

here is my current tv stand (http://www.crateandbarrel.com/family.aspx?c=991&f=10305&q=latitude+media&fromLocation=Search&DIMID=400001&SearchPage=1)

it's 22'' high and the center shelf is easily adjustable; i have receiver, dvd player and tivo there. i like the cabinets with drawers and hide my xbox and cable box in it (i have tivo in center with IR blasters to the cable box). the only bad thing is the cabinets do not have a pass through in the back so i had to take a drill with the circular drill bit and drill a hole to run cabling through. also it is not solid wood and was a major hassle to install.

Need some help w/ my HL-R5067W...wife hates the 4:3 bars on the side w/ SD and I don't know how to get rid of them (i know, i know...it's the correct aspect, but i'm getting the "why'd we get a widescreen if we can't use it, blah, blah, blah") ...i'm only seeing 16:9 and 4:3 options in the picture size menu...all other options are greyed out. I have a Comcast 6412 hooked up to the TV via component 1 input...any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

Well, I need to make a decision on a stand now because Amazon is getting ready to ship my TV.

So, which of those 3 Tech Craft that I listed would be best? They are all about the same price.

Need some help w/ my HL-R5067W...wife hates the 4:3 bars on the side w/ SD and I don't know how to get rid of them (i know, i know...it's the correct aspect, but i'm getting the "why'd we get a widescreen if we can't use it, blah, blah, blah") ...i'm only seeing 16:9 and 4:3 options in the picture size menu...all other options are greyed out. I have a Comcast 6412 hooked up to the TV via component 1 input...any help would be GREATLY appreciated!

I don't know that cablebox, but most have a selection similar to the TV's menu where you can stretch, zoom the 4:3 image to fit the 16:9 format of the tv. I'm not sure why your tv's picture options for panorama, zoom1, zoom2, are greyed out....??? via component shouldn't automatically turn these off. Odd.

Ooh. OK, I think I figured my optimal watching height from Samsung's tech dimensions drawings.

I added the height of the center of the display to the height of the stand, then subtracted my average viewing level. The one closest to the center (ie:0) is the better stand. The 58X stand (15.75"h) was 5.12" from the center, and the 48x (22.50"h) was 9.62", so clearly the Monaco 58X is the better stand for this TV.

Thanks for all your help guys! I'm glad I found the dimension .pdf. It makes a huge difference.

Hi,

I am looking at the 5667 and the 61" version, both are available via Amazon for what seems a ridiculous price.

Are they all that and a bag of chips at that price point (that is about 2kish)?

And, if they are, does anyone offer an aftermarket warranty that is worth anything?

Or, do take my savings and buy some service/bulbs?

Is the 56 the better unit? Is the 61 a good one as well?

Sorry for all the questions, but I am limited on $$ and frankly have a lot of information overload.

Appreciate any input.
Thanks

Hi,

I am looking at the 5667 and the 61" version, both are available via Amazon for what seems a ridiculous price.

Are they all that and a bag of chips at that price point (that is about 2kish)?

And, if they are, does anyone offer an aftermarket warranty that is worth anything?

Or, do take my savings and buy some service/bulbs?

Is the 56 the better unit? Is the 61 a good one as well?

Sorry for all the questions, but I am limited on $$ and frankly have a lot of information overload.

Appreciate any input.
Thanks
Prices are dropping because the 2006 models will be out soon (next few weeks). Prices are lower on the 2006 models, so I would check those prices before buying a 2005. The 2006 models have two HDMI inputs if that is of value to you. Both the 56 and 61 are good units. The prices on the 2005 1080p units will start dropping soon ... so if you can put a little more into the purchase and can wait a couple more weeks, you might be able to pull an upgrade off.

From what I gathered, the newer versions of the Samsungs will come in two iterations: All will have 2 HDMI, but you will have to pay a premium for Firewire and some extras the 5667 already have.

I wanted Firewire because I have a DVHS, so I thought it would be worth it to save the $500+. It only cost me ~$1800 for the 5667 from Amazon, shipped.

uwdawg95:

On the TV tune to your cable box. On the cable box itself - press Power Off - then MENU (within 2 seconds) the menu should pop up on your TV screen (this will not show up if you are using the HDMI or DVI connectors to the TV - only component - which you are).
Use the arrow keys to scroll down to 4:3 OVERRIDE and turn it ON. That will solve your problem.
PS these forums have a few full threads on the 6412 called " New moto 6412 with HDMI and SATA" and "Official Comcast 6412 w/ iGuide Discussion"

Hello group. A friend turned me on to this forum. I just purchased a Samsung HLR6167W. I have to honestly say that I love it!!! Picture is great. I do have one issue though. May seem some what picky but I noticed some one else touched on it briefly earlier in this thread. I am very disappointed with the PIP feature. I have a xbox 360 hooked up to this TV (no lag expereienced) so I use the PIP feature a lot to see if anyone might be on while I'm watching TV. I noticed that you can not Swap if the picture your watching is digital!? Is this normal through out all brands or special to this model? Is there a fix? By they way I'm using a HD DVR from Brighthouse (used to be Time Warner). Thanks in advance for the input.

Well, I need to make a decision on a stand now because Amazon is getting ready to ship my TV.

So, which of those 3 Tech Craft that I listed would be best? They are all about the same price.


Dave,

You'll find a great selection of size-appropriate stands at www.standsandmounts.com. I purchased the Techcraft Bernini Series as seen here:
http://www.standsandmounts.com/index.asp?pageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4788

Prices include shipping and no sales tax. I ordered on Wednesday and it was delivered on Friday.

Happy shopping!


Roger

Hi,

I am looking at the 5667 and the 61" version, both are available via Amazon for what seems a ridiculous price.

Are they all that and a bag of chips at that price point (that is about 2kish)?

And, if they are, does anyone offer an aftermarket warranty that is worth anything?

Or, do take my savings and buy some service/bulbs?

Is the 56 the better unit? Is the 61 a good one as well?

Sorry for all the questions, but I am limited on $$ and frankly have a lot of information overload.

Appreciate any input.
Thanks

If you're looking for a good price and great support/service - try vanns.com Their warranty is very reasonable and includes lamp replacement.

if i want to connect my cable box with DVI out, should i buy a DVI cable with DVI connectors on both ends or buy a DVI out with HDMI connector for the TV?

Dave,

You'll find a great selection of size-appropriate stands at www.standsandmounts.com. I purchased the Techcraft Bernini Series as seen here:
http://www.standsandmounts.com/index.asp?pageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4788

Prices include shipping and no sales tax. I ordered on Wednesday and it was delivered on Friday.

Happy shopping!


RogerRoger, thx. I already checked out that site before I placed my order.

I decided to go with the Tech Craft DLP58X for ~$130. Looks like a nice stand (at least from the pics).

Gents, Thanks.

I was able to find the 61" version delivered for a few bucks over 2k, about 60.

So, I am happy.

Presently I have dishnetwork - for 3 tvs.

Is there enough on HD to warrent the purchase of hd service? Or, shall I just purchase a antenna for local hd?

The tv is in the basement, and all walls are sealed - I'd have to make it as professional as possible - as I am not gonna ruin all that drywall!

In case anyone eles is out there - I am in Burke VA about 15 mi from DC any special thoughts on the outdoor 'hidden' type antenna?

Could anyone tell me when the HLR4667W's started to receive the HD4 chips or do they all have em?

I just purchased a HLR 5067 after tons of research viewing, etc. I'm wondering what people think of their SD picture on this model. My wife absolutely hates the SD picture because it looks like there is too much pixelization and ghosting. I don't want to admit it because I had a hard enough time convincing her to agree to the TV but I'd have to agree that the SD picture looks pretty bad, it's almost hard to watch.

HD pic and DVDs look awesome but there are plently of shows we still like to watch in SD. I'm just shocked that it looks this bad. My friend has an older Samsung 46 (not sure which model) and I don't recall his SD pic looking so "pixelly" I'm wondering if there are some settings I could modify or if the TV is too close to us, something is defective, this is just the way it looks, or what. I have a DirectTV HR10-250 hooked up through component. DVD through HDMI.

Let me know if anyone has any suggestions. Every time my wife looks at the TV she says "Our old 27" CRT looked better then this" and really it's hard to disagree.

Your wife is right - if you don't make the index delay and gamma adjustments in the service menu. They are discussed earlier in the thread. SD is much improved much to my relief, even though I'm having an ISF calibration soon. If I hadn't found information that allowed me to make the changes, chances are I would have given the Samsung the heave ho already.

Gents, Thanks.


In case anyone eles is out there - I am in Burke VA about 15 mi from DC any special thoughts on the outdoor 'hidden' type antenna?

J,

Try an antenna and see how you like the local OTA HD. Mosy people that want a hidden antenna put it in the attic. Or better yet, get an HD DVR from Cox for a month or so. Then take a look at what DISH has and see if you want to go for it.

Go to the Local HD forum and go to the Washington, DC / Baltimore thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=517400&page=1&pp=30) for more specific advice.

I just purchased a HLR 5067 after tons of research viewing, etc. I'm wondering what people think of their SD picture on this model. My wife absolutely hates the SD picture because it looks like there is too much pixelization and ghosting. I don't want to admit it because I had a hard enough time convincing her to agree to the TV but I'd have to agree that the SD picture looks pretty bad, it's almost hard to watch.

You are talking about SD and not an analog signal? SD is about DVD quality (depending on the source). RF or Cable analog signals look terrible at that size and resolution. As for any other problems with SD and HD picture, I've heard that the the index, gamma, and DNIE tweaks can fix a lot but have not had similar success yet.

Gents, Thanks.

I was able to find the 61" version delivered for a few bucks over 2k, about 60.

So, I am happy.

Presently I have dishnetwork - for 3 tvs.

Is there enough on HD to warrent the purchase of hd service? Or, shall I just purchase a antenna for local hd?

The tv is in the basement, and all walls are sealed - I'd have to make it as professional as possible - as I am not gonna ruin all that drywall!

In case anyone eles is out there - I am in Burke VA about 15 mi from DC any special thoughts on the outdoor 'hidden' type antenna?

HD content is the only reason to get this other than the largest XBOX display... I wouldn't get this set without HD - as SD content is less viewable than standard televisions IMO.

I was just wondering what the price of the 2006 model that would be replacing the HL-R5067w would be. So far the cheapest HL-R5067w that I have found is around $1800 with shipping. I was wonderign how much more you guys think the 2006 model of that would cost.

So if this set is not good with the xbox 360 what rear projection tv is best for the xbox 360?

So if this set is not good with the xbox 360 what rear projection tv is best for the xbox 360?

This set is AWESOME with x360! I'm on nightly playing PGR3, Fight Night3, GRAW, and Tiger Woods (the sky in tiger is phenomenal - looks like real life). :D

Your wife is right - if you don't make the index delay and gamma adjustments in the service menu. They are discussed earlier in the thread. SD is much improved much to my relief, even though I'm having an ISF calibration soon. If I hadn't found information that allowed me to make the changes, chances are I would have given the Samsung the heave ho already.

I have been trying to find the post addressing the index delay and gamma corrections..

Can anyone point me to it or maybe tell me approx which page of the thread it is?

I just had my 5067 delivered at lunch, I only had about 30 min to play with it before coming back to work.

The sd didnt look very good, hd and x360 looked fantastic for what its worth.

Thanks

Hello. I bought the 56 inch model from Amazon last week via direct deposit from them. Well they shipped the tv and the guys are suppose to be here in the morning to deliver it. However, my account hasn't been charged. What is going on? Anyone have experience with this? thanks

I was looking on samsungparts.com for replacement lamp for a 5667 and there are two listed: BP96-00826A and BP96-01073A. How does one find out which is the right one? Also, after changing the lamp are the lamp hours reset automatically in the service menu or does this have to be done manually?

Further to my previous post. These lamp part numbers that I see on the samsungparts.com website are for assemblies. Is is not possible to just change the bulb? Would it be cheaper and where would I find the bulb? Thanks.

Hello. I bought the 56 inch model from Amazon last week via direct deposit from them. Well they shipped the tv and the guys are suppose to be here in the morning to deliver it. However, my account hasn't been charged. What is going on? Anyone have experience with this? thanksYes, I am waiting for mine to make it to me. They ship via Eagle, and they'll have to contact you to set up a time. You should have a tracking # with your order.

I was already charged btw.

I have been trying to find the post addressing the index delay and gamma corrections..

Can anyone point me to it or maybe tell me approx which page of the thread it is?

I just had my 5067 delivered at lunch, I only had about 30 min to play with it before coming back to work.

The sd didnt look very good, hd and x360 looked fantastic for what its worth.

Thanks
Use the "Search This Thread" tool just above the first post on each page. Type in "Index" and you should get several search results.