If at all possible, you'd be better off with MDF instead of OSB on the riser.

If at all possible, you'd be better off with MDF instead of OSB on the riser.
Hi Brian,

Could you elaborate more on this? MDF in my opinion is not meant for subfloor. Maybe you're coming from an acoustical viewpoint?

Hi Jerrod,

What is your total height of your riser when you're done? about 13" with carpetting? How high is your ceiling?

If at all possible, you'd be better off with MDF instead of OSB on the riser.

I already bought all the OSB so that's what I'll use. With 2 layers screwed and glued, it shouldn't be that bad right?

Hi Jerrod,

What is your total height of your riser when you're done? about 13" with carpetting? How high is your ceiling?

Right now it's 11" so once the 2 layers of OSB, pad and carpet are on, it should be around 13" high. My ceiling is 8 1/2 feet (102") from floor, so from the riser it will be 89"..... I didn't want the riser quite that high, but the riser calculator said I needed to be around 15 1/2" so I compromised a little bit.

Got quite a bit done today. Finished up the riser and a good bit of the stage. First, pics of the riser....

Laid down plastic inside to keep the insulation isolated from the concrete floor.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0541.jpg

Bought the "blow in" insulation and what a mess! It just created a cloud of dust/dirt and just wasn't fun. I broke it up so it filled more space.... I'm about half done with it in this pic.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0543.jpg

I also put down a thin bead of adhesive before putting down the first layer of OSB. Obviously, by looking at the picture I wasn't too worried about a good even bead of it.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0544.jpg

First layer done.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0545.jpg

Added roofing felt and started the second layer
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0546.jpg

I will add a step to each side of the riser. I have 12/2 located for a step light, but I'm not sure if I'll use it right away or not. At least it's wired if I want to use it.

Also started on the stage. My wife and I decided on a curve going from 1 wall to the other. You'll see what I mean from the pics. The stage will be the same height as the riser (about 12") with a step on both sides.

I know others have done this. I made separate subwoofer bases on the sides and will not connect them to the main part of the stage. I doubt it does much, but it doesn't hurt I guess. Both of these will be filled with sand.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0548.jpg

Here you can see the curve of the stage. I just progressively shortened each joist in the stage.... pretty easy.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0555.jpg

Add braces
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0553.jpg

Here's a closeup of the sub and main stage sections separated. I'm not sure how I'm going to put wood on the front. I'll probably stain it and thought about a 1/8" piece of oak or birch.... but that would be thin. I might just notch some wood along the back so it bends easier.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0554.jpg

I measured out the screen. The right side fell on a seam that the mud was still wet, so I just leaned a 2x4 up against the wall. Right now, I'm planning on a 120" diagonal 2.35 screen. This will give me around a 96-98" HDTV screen which is originally what I was going to get. My HVAC contractor left a whole roll of the aluminum duct tape, so that's what I used to mark out the screen.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0558.jpg

The Green Glue showed up today. I've never seen a tube of caulk with a removable nozzle before. Interesting... and a good idea. I bought 16 tubes of USG acoustical caulk and 4 of them were just thrown in a box and shipped. When I opened them, all of the nozzles were broken so I had the hold it while applying it. What a PITA!
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0560.jpg

MDF isn't used as sub-floor because it's more expensive - not because it won't work as well. The idea with the MDF is to make things as massive and inert as possible. There is still a possibility that we may use this riser as a Helmholz (if Jerrod remembered to seal and caulk everything down tight...).

MDF is not rated for floor use, this is why I put down 3/4" plywood then 3/4" MDF over the plywood. The MDF may work, but subfloor is not its intended use and it has not be tested in this manner. Using one layer of Span Rated OSB and one layer of MDF may be the cheapest solution.

It is also easier to cut the radius of the stage with the MDF, it does split up like plywood will.

MDF isn't used as sub-floor because it's more expensive - not because it won't work as well. The idea with the MDF is to make things as massive and inert as possible. There is still a possibility that we may use this riser as a Helmholz (if Jerrod remembered to seal and caulk everything down tight...).

I didn't do anything out of the ordinary. I did use construction adhesive on the joists before I put down the first layer. Then roofing felt and then the 2nd layer. Both layers screwed down with a ton of screws. Post it here or email me if there's something else I should have done.

MDF is not rated for floor use, this is why I put down 3/4" plywood then 3/4" MDF over the plywood. The MDF may work, but subfloor is not its intended use and it has not be tested in this manner. Using one layer of Span Rated OSB and one layer of MDF may be the cheapest solution.

It is also easier to cut the radius of the stage with the MDF, it does split up like plywood will.

I'm just using 2 layers of OSB and leaving it at that. I don't think it's going to be a huge deal...

Worked more on the stage today. Bought a sheet of plywood so I could bend it along the front of the stage. Also picked up sand and more insulation for the stage.

First, a finished shot of the riser.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0561.jpg

Here's the front of the stage with the plywood on the front.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0562.jpg

Both of the side pieces of filled with sand. I lugged 550 pounds of it into the basement. I also mixed in some large rocks to take up space and save sand. Glad I did because I bought 11 bags and I needed them all. A house is being built next to mine, so there were plenty to choose from.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0563.jpg

Had my neighbor come over and help with the ceiling. What a pain in the butt! We used Green Glue on all the pieces and there was just 2 of us. So the pieces kind of wanted to slide around before I could some screws in them. Trying to hold the drywall secure against the ceiling, hold my drill, screws and get a few screws in without the drywall dropping was a killer. Get a lift or more than 1 person to help! With that, it seemed like most of my screws missed the hat channel or stripped and it just took forever. A very unejoyable experience! :mad:

I specifically bought the Grabber brand screw because of someones recommendation. They didn't work worth a crap. Coarse thread Grip-Tite screws were equally worthless. The fine thread Grip-Tite's worked pretty well. You'll see in the pics that I used a tons of screws. I just don't want to run the risk of this ceiling ever deciding to come back to earth and fall.

I was surprised at how liquidy the GG was. It was viscous enough to not run while we had the drywall vertical and moved it around, but it certainly didn't take much effort to squeeze it out of the tubes.

HEre's a few pics.....
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0564.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0565.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0566.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0567.jpg

I'll try and finish the last 2 1/2 pieces tomorrow, if I'm lucky enough to get my neighbor in the basement again. I'm going to help him do all his basement wiring when he gets to that point....

No help from the neighbor, so I worked on other things. Laid the plywood (used it instead of OSB since they were the same price) down on the stage. I took 2 sheets, screwed them together and laid them on the stage to trace them. I cut both pieces at the same time, then removed the screws and put the first layer down. Then, used some liquid nails in between sheets and put down the second layer.... all screwed.

Here's the finished stage. I really like the rounded look.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0577.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0580.jpg

One thing I forgot about was the height of the outlets on the screen wall. No big deal, but they're only a few inched above the stage. My mistake might work out nicely thought since I'll be able to access the front middle ones and they won't be so high that they're blocked by the screen.

Worked yesterday on the right side soffit. I ripped a 2x6 for the ceiling piece and the rest are ripped 2x4s.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0581.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0593.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0594.jpg

For the wall pieces, I had a lot of 3-4 foot scraps, so instead of running long pieces I just used them. I used Liquid Nails between the wood and ceiling drywall and the wood and wall drywall, just for some extra strength.

The 2" conduit you see is for speaker wires. This will be hidden in the right side surround speaker column. The equipment rack is on the other side of the wall.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0595.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0596.jpg

Here's a view from the equipment area. I still have to put a coupling and a short piece of pipe on this side, then drywall it.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0598.jpg

I might put a "T" in between the 90's so I can run the rear surround cables... or I'll just drill some small holes. This area will be accessible since a speaker is going to be in the column.

I also mounted the HVAC return on the front wall. I just put a couple 2x4's between the drywall and box to keep it spaced away from the wall. That should give me enough room to get a grill and filter on it.

HI Jerrod,

I see you're taking advantage of the holiday weekend to get a good HT workout ;)

I see you're using flex duct work for your HT. JUst curious as to how many supplies you're using in your HT? and what size?
what about return size?

thanks

HI Jerrod,

I see you're taking advantage of the holiday weekend to get a good HT workout ;)

I see you're using flex duct work for your HT. JUst curious as to how many supplies you're using in your HT? and what size?
what about return size?

thanks

Yeah.... just came up to check on the dimensions of my sub so I can mark it out of the stage.

I have 2 - 8" supplies and I think the return is 12" (or 14"). I'll check it when I head back to the basement.

I got sunburned today out on a boat and let me tell ya, that makes working a bit tougher! :eek:


EDIT - the return is 10"

Tonight I finished up the ceiling drywall and mudded the rest of it. I also built the soffits for the left side of the room. I plan on spending tomorrow working on the rear soffit, and trying to get the stage area framed. I spent a lot of time just staring at it tonight trying to figure out the way I want to do it.....

Some pics....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0609.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0610.jpg

Jerrod,
Looks like it's coming along nicely.
Sorry you made it so hard on yourself by not using a drywall lift.
I can't imagine.
BTW, they make drywall screws specifically for metal studs and hat channel applications. They have a self-tapping tip like a sheet metal screw.

Jerrod,
Looks like it's coming along nicely.
Sorry you made it so hard on yourself by not using a drywall lift.
I can't imagine.
BTW, they make drywall screws specifically for metal studs and hat channel applications. They have a self-tapping tip like a sheet metal screw.

Thanks!

Well, I only did the HT room. Paid someone else to do the rest, and I even had them put the first layer up on the ceiling in the HT. I only did the 2nd layer ceiling and all the walls. Glad that's all I did! :D

I saw those self tapping screws, but also saw a recommendation on the Grabber brand.... the ones I got are made for drywall to metal. In the end, the Grip-Tite fine thread worked fairly decent. I used a lot more screws that I probably need to, but I can assure you the drywall isn't going anywhere!

Worked more on soffits and the stage today. Finished up the left side ans most of the rear soffit.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0611.jpg

In this pic, you'll see I propped the rear soffit up against the ceiling with a piece of wood. I used liquid nails between the top plate and the drywall and I just couldn't press the 2 together. I'll finish up the soffit later.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0612.jpg

Here's some more of the stage. I plan on matching the side soffit height with the stage soffit, and also rounding it like the stage below. I am going to hang the screen right on the front wall. That's what the horizontal pieces are for....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0615.jpg

I used a 2x8 across the top. It is touching the ceiling, but not by much. I was initially going to hang the soffit from the ceiling, but instead wanted to do it this way just to limit the amount of weight on the RSIC clips and hat channel.

These next 2 pictures show the rest of the soffit. These follow the same curve as the stage below and I will put plywood on the front, just like I did on the stage. I will fill in above the joists so I can attach the plywood all the way to the ceiling.


http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0616.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0617.jpg

The center channel speaker will go in between the screen and the soffit. I just plan on making a small soffit for it to fit in.

I was hoping to get more done today, but I'm happy with the progress. Luckily, I am done making soffits. :) Man I hated that part!

Looking good dude. Almost there. I like the rounded soffit. Something I wanted to do, but did the angle thing. Couldn't figure out how to do both!

Bud

Nice look of the upper soffit being round.. looking forward to what it looks like finished.

FYI, you can notch out a 2x10, etc, and bend that around a curve as well. Though plywood works fine too, and since you did the bottom already, it only makes sense to make them the same. Just pointing that option out a few days (weeks?) late.. :)

Looking good dude. Almost there. I like the rounded soffit. Something I wanted to do, but did the angle thing. Couldn't figure out how to do both!

Bud

Thanks man! My body hurts so bad right now! On top of the extreme sunburn I've got, I haven't done this much physical labor in quite a while. The rounded soffit is a bit of a pain, but I think the look will be well worth it.

The tough part is that I didn't really have much of this drawn out or planned. I just looked at things and started cutting wood. So far, so good.

Nice look of the upper soffit being round.. looking forward to what it looks like finished.

FYI, you can notch out a 2x10, etc, and bend that around a curve as well. Though plywood works fine too, and since you did the bottom already, it only makes sense to make them the same. Just pointing that option out a few days (weeks?) late.. :)

Thanks!

I know the trick with the 2x10... I've seen some others do it (Marc Ye and Patrick Webb come to mind). I felt that it would be easier and faster to just cut a piece of plywood versus cutting a ton of notches in some 2x lumber. In the end, probablky about the same amount of work either way.... :)

What's going on the top of the curved soffit in front of the "header"? How will you attach it with only 10" or so between there and the ceiling?

What's going on the top of the curved soffit in front of the "header"? How will you attach it with only 10" or so between there and the ceiling?

I think I understand what your asking.... Right now, there's about a 7 1/2" gap between the ceiling and thhe wood "joists" I have. I will either attach som 2x6's or 2x8's vertically on the ends of the wood, or just lay a 2x8 on top of the 2x6 so it's flush on the front. It doesn't have to support much weight at all and isn't load bearing, so I'll probably just put some vertical pieces in from the underside of the joist to the ceiling and nail/screw them to the sides of the joist.

Hopefully that makes some sense.....

Ah, so you're going to continue the curved soffit all the way to the ceiling? I was thinking you were going to have the header be "visible" (though finished in some way, of course).

In that case you could just use one large curved plywood face, right?

Ah, so you're going to continue the curved soffit all the way to the ceiling? I was thinking you were going to have the header be "visible" (though finished in some way, of course).

In that case you could just use one large curved plywood face, right?

Yeah, the curved plywood will go to the ceiling. I understand what you were thinking though.... I want to match the stage.

Here's some more of the stage. I plan on matching the side soffit height with the stage soffit, and also rounding it like the stage below. I am going to hang the screen right on the front wall. That's what the horizontal pieces are for....


http://pics.loosechangerocks.net/IMG_613_1.JPG
Jerrod,

I love the progress and I completely understand your pain! Maybe try some sunscreen and Bengay next time :D

Had a quick comment on your screen. I'm working with bpape on my room and he suggested putting some absorbtion behind the screen to really focus things there. I know you mentioned doing a 2.35:1 screen but did not know what type of material you planned to use. If you plan on using a traditional screen material (DaLite, SMX, etc), then you might consider pulling the screen out 3" from the wall so you can put some 1" or 2" absorbtion back there.

While it doesn't provide much in the way of HF absorbtion (unless you're using a perf screen), it still allows some midrange/upper bass control. Personally, I think this helps really lock the center to the screen.

Very interesting.. Hadn't thought of it.. I looked at my design and thought "wow, all the careful panelling for 1st reflection stuff, however at the screen, here's this huge rectangle with no treatment at all just above my center channel".

I learn something everyday at this forum. Is this type of behind-screen treatment very common?

Jerrod,

I love the progress and I completely understand your pain! Maybe try some sunscreen and Bengay next time :D

Had a quick comment on your screen. I'm working with bpape on my room and he suggested putting some absorbtion behind the screen to really focus things there. I know you mentioned doing a 2.35:1 screen but did not know what type of material you planned to use. If you plan on using a traditional screen material (DaLite, SMX, etc), then you might consider pulling the screen out 3" from the wall so you can put some 1" or 2" absorbtion back there.

Yeah, sunscreen definitely! To make matters worse, my band played an outdoor pool party Monday and it was sunny and 91 degrees. Didn't help the burn and the bass guitar on my shoulder all day just felt great! :eek:

Bryan and I are going back and forth on some things as well. We're going to put 2" cotton behind the screen, so I will probably just stack two 2x4's so I get 3" of space. As far as a screen, I'm probably getting a Carada since they are priced nice and get rave reviews from folks around here. I've thought about a transparent screen, but it's a foot or more of real estate I lose and then the chairs are too close or I only go with 1 row. I'm trying to keep the screen as close as I can to the front wall to maximize my viewing distance as much as possible.

While it doesn't provide much in the way of HF absorbtion (unless you're using a perf screen), it still allows some midrange/upper bass control. Personally, I think this helps really lock the center to the screen.

Bryan,
I assume the entire screen wall will be covered with the 2" cotton right? The soffits above the screen will be "isolated" and sealed up so we shouldn't have to do those areas right? I will just put fiberglass in the soffits to fill up the space and prevent things from resonating.

Right. We'll try to do some bass control in the front vertical corners but you really don't have much room up there.

Bryan

Well, I've sporatically been creeping along the past few days. Worked a lot on the stage, ran my speaker wires and conduit, and finished up the rear soffit.

Here's a pic showing thew vertical pieces I added to the top of the soffit. I'll attached the curved plywood to these

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0623.jpg


This one shows the next soffit I had to make to support the center channel speaker above the screen. I took a 2x8 and stood it up so you can see where the speaker is going to be. I had some 2x8's laying around so I just laid one flat and ran it all the way above the screen. I added some supports later that you can see in pictures I will post later.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0624.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0625.jpg

I'll have about 2-3 inches below this speaker shelf to the screen.... I may just bump the screen up a bit to take up the space, but will see when I get it.

These pics are more for Bryan.... I have all this open space we can use for thicker material, bass trapping if you'd like.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0628.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0634.jpg

Here's a shot of some of the speaker wires hanging. I used 2" conduit, and just cut it at each point I had to drop a wire to the rear speakers. I couldn't find 2" tees for electrical conduit.....
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0635.jpg

Here's the elbow coming from the equipment area that will be in the side right column. I just drilled a 3/8" hole in the elbow to poke out that specific speaker wire. I'll caluk this once I'm done. I pull all of the wires from both ends and they move, so if for some reason I need to replace one, I can do it.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0636.jpg

Here's the front right corner where the front 3 channels are. I still have to run a component video/audio cable and an optical audio cable thru this too. I'll have those connections at the front of the room if I bring something like an XBox or PS3 into the room.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0637.jpg

Here's a wider shot of the front.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0638.jpg

Looking good Jerrod. Thats a massive amount of wood your using there... :D

Ronnie

Good thing wood is cheap. :) I cracked up about the center speaker up there... is that the actual height of the Ascend center, or is the speaker shorter? Just curious about the drywall, etc, you would put on the bottom side of the interior stage soffit framing (immediately above the "speaker").

Good thing wood is cheap. :) I cracked up about the center speaker up there... is that the actual height of the Ascend center, or is the speaker shorter? Just curious about the drywall, etc, you would put on the bottom side of the interior stage soffit framing (immediately above the "speaker").

Yeah, I had some 2x8's left over from the stage and riser, plus I didn't want the entire front soffit hanging from the ceiling (the RSIC clips and hat channel) so I did it like this. I know it's kind of bass ackwards and the support shoud be under the "joists" but I'm not worried about it.

The Ascend center is 7.5" wide. I left about 9" of space. For the underside of the soffit (above the speaker) I'm going to put GOM over it so there really won't be any additional space take up. I know I might have a bit of an issue with reflections if I used wood or drywall. I was kind of stuck thought because the screen had to be a certain height, and I wanted the the front soffit to be as "thick" as the sides, I was pretty limited. Actually, I can't believe it's all working out. My luck doesn't always go that way... :)

bpape is doing the analysis so I'll just go on his recommendation about the underside of the sofft and whether I drywall it/use plywood wood or nothing..

I had to LOL on the DIY speaker on top (nice job -- talk about a "budget speaker") :D Don't forget you will need to angle that center channel down to the listening area. I'm not sure how much angle you'll get with 1.5". It may be just enough based on your seating distance.

I laughed not because of the psuedo speaker, but the fact that he actually wrote "Ascend" on it. Maybe so not to confuse it with another piece of wood that says "Rcoket" or "Axoim"?

Bud

I laughed not because of the psuedo speaker, but the fact that he actually wrote "Ascend" on it. Maybe so not to confuse it with another piece of wood that says "Rcoket" or "Axoim"?

Bud

With more and more speaker companies using maple as a choice, a man can get confused. ^_^

I had to LOL on the DIY speaker on top (nice job -- talk about a "budget speaker") :D Don't forget you will need to angle that center channel down to the listening area. I'm not sure how much angle you'll get with 1.5". It may be just enough based on your seating distance.

I didn't really plan on that piece of wood being humorous.... sometimes the funniest things are unintentional.

I haven't figured out how much angle I need yet, but know I need to. If needed, I can notch out some of the wood above the speaker since it will be hidden.

I laughed not because of the psuedo speaker, but the fact that he actually wrote "Ascend" on it. Maybe so not to confuse it with another piece of wood that says "Rcoket" or "Axoim"?

Bud

Yeah, I've had them for months and 4 of the 170 SE's are still sitting collecting dust. I haven't even tried them yet!

For the minute you had me reconsidering the Ascends for my fronts :D. But then again even if they are that ugly as they will be covered by to proscenium who cares if they sound great :D

Did a little bit of work tonight.... basically just put the plywood on the upper part of the soffit.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0642.jpg


Went out and bought a new drill (light, circular saw and sander at HD). My Makita has been a workhorse, but I only have 1 good battery and my electric drill died a week or so ago.... so when the battery went dead I was pretty much stuck with nothing to do. A neat little thing this drill has is a magnet on the front of it for screws. Really freakin neat!

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0646.jpg

I'm no expert when it comes to drywall I did it for a short period of time when I was younger and my friends say my results are really good. What I found was mixing your mud is so much better I used fast set in the theater. In 45 minutes it was rock hard plus it seems to smooth out better. Just my 2 cents, I have to agree I hate drywall the dust etc, I wish I could have just had someone do it.

I argree on the microperf screen I wish I had gone that route depends on how much room your will to give up I guess.

I'm glad I paid someone because I'd be nowhere near done witht he rest of the basement. Luckily the HT walls will be covered with wood and fabric so I wasn't concerned with how the mud/seams look.

Off to the basement for the afternoon.......

Jerrod, you will be happy with that drill. A friend of mine found them at HD on sale the day after Thanksgiving (with charger, a battery and a flashlight) for $30, so he bought three. I bought one from him and have since bought another battery and the jig-saw. Couldn't be happier. My first major project with the combo was some Adirondack chairs for the porch:
http://vonhofs.com/chairs/small_complete_set.jpg

Nice chairs Scott!! -And I too have that drill... (my kit has a circular saw) I choose it over all of my 5 Makitas any day!
As far as keeping the dust down... I have a drywaller who uses a damp sponge for the majority of the work.

Jerrod, you will be happy with that drill. A friend of mine found them at HD on sale the day after Thanksgiving (with charger, a battery and a flashlight) for $30, so he bought three. I bought one from him and have since bought another battery and the jig-saw. Couldn't be happier. My first major project with the combo was some Adirondack chairs for the porch

I got mine for $130. INcluded the drill, circular saw, light, sander and 2 batteries. I'm happy with it so far.

Worked more on the stage and soffits yesterday. Here's more pics.....

Installed the stage lights and got them wired up. I bought the Emerald brand at Lowe's. They're non-IC and take up to a 50 watt Par 20 bulb. I think 4 of them are plenty bright.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0660.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0661.jpg

I packed insulation on the back side of the lights, and have to buy another roll to fill in the front. You need to keep at least 3" of space around the lights.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0662.jpg

They were a little loose in the holes, so I drilled 2 screws up thru the drywall into the support bracket. That made them solid and should prevent rattles.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0665.jpg

I added drywall to the underside of the soffits. Nothing too exciting here....
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0667.jpg
http://lorishookphotography.com/Private/IMG_0668_1.JPG

I sealed the speaker conduit with a ton of caulk. It's sealed on the outside and on the other side of the drywall. I haven't finished off the equipment rack area yet, so it's caulk on both sides. I also caulked the corner seam where the soffit meets the wall.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0671.jpg

Next, I plan to get started on the columns.

Worked more on the stage and soffits yesterday. Here's more pics.....

Installed the stage lights and got them wired up. I bought the Emerald brand at Lowe's. They're non-IC and take up to a 50 watt Par 20 bulb. I think 4 of them are plenty bright.
Jerrod,

How tall are those lights? Do they fit standard trims or only the ones that are "Emerald Brand"? How much did they cost (without the trim)?

Jerrod,

How tall are those lights? Do they fit standard trims or only the ones that are "Emerald Brand"? How much did they cost (without the trim)?

They were $16.98 at Lowe's and included the baffle, trim and housing. The height is 5" so they are very small too. Here's the link for them. (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=49137-337-%20PM330W&lpage=none)

http://images.lowes.com/product/761249/761249330005.jpg

I liked them because everything was included and the baffle is black. I'll paint the trim in place so no concern there either.

They were $16.98 at Lowe's and included the baffle, trim and housing. The height is 5" so they are very small too. Here's the link for them. (http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=49137-337-%20PM330W&lpage=none)

I liked them because everything was included and the baffle is black. I'll paint the trim in place so no concern there either.
Thanks Jerrod. I noticed that it is a 3" can. I did not know they made line-voltage cans that small. I've been looking at 4" cans from USA Light (http://www.usalight.com/lighting/rex/recess_4.htm?cart=1149537135244193). They use the same bulb as yours. I like that yours are local so that I can go take a look at them in person.

Thanks for the find :)

I think he was asking if your daughter was conceived on the air plane :)

You're quick! :rolleyes:

Thanks Jerrod. I noticed that it is a 3" can. I did not know they made line-voltage cans that small. I've been looking at 4" cans from USA Light (http://www.usalight.com/lighting/rex/recess_4.htm?cart=1149537135244193). They use the same bulb as yours. I like that yours are local so that I can go take a look at them in person.

Thanks for the find :)

Another reason I got them was that they are 3" and fairly compact. Lowe's had another line voltage light that is 3", but only comes in white or brushed nickel. It is 1 piece, but has a pivoting head so it would be much more difficult to paint. I have some downstairs for other areas of my basement, but I can't remember the brand name right now.

Pulled the trigger today on the Panasonic AE900 projector. Bought from Projector People for a great price, $400 rebate and the $300 Blockbuster card. I originally budgeted $3,500 for my projector. I can now afford either an expensive lens (Prismasonic or Panamorph U150), or a cheaper lens Panamorph U80 and a scaler for about the same price. Im still amazed that I got this projector for a net of $1399!!!

Now I just need to figure out if I can make a Vertical Squeeze lens work how I want it too. More to read on that....

Hope to get the columns done this week/weekend. Nothing fancy like Ronnie or Swithey though....

I got started on the columns over the weekend and will post some pics later tonight. Also ordered the Panamorph U80 lens today. Last day of the sale and got it for $200 off the regular price!

I can't wait to get this done!!!

Buddy -
I am working on Home theater at my basement except the dimensions I have exactly similar layout. Even I had the bathroom area screwed up also. Currently my builder is working on rest of the basement as my RSIC clips and other things are on order.

I've spent most of yesterday and then this evening on the stage and columns. For some reason it just seems like the columns are taking forever..... Here's some pics of the stage first.

I added insulation to the soffit above the stage. The lights are non-IC so I cut out a piece in the middle so there's plenty of clearance.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0703.jpg

Then I put the plywood back on the face of the soffit
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0704.jpg

First, let me say these columns don't look near as good as some others have done. I just slapped them together and didn't really plan things. I just started cutting wood and building and went from there.....

They will eventually be covered with plywood on the bottom (about 40" up) and top (the upper 10") and the middle 40" or so will be fabric. Each column will be filled with fiberglass insulation and will be left "open" to act as a pesudo bass trap.....

Here's the left side of the room and rear column underway.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0692.jpg

MOre of the rear columns finished.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0700.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0701.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0702.jpg

Here's a closeup of one of the Ascend 170 SE's in place.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0695.jpg

I wanted to keep the columns as small as possible, so I bought this 18 gauge corner channel at Lowe's. It's very strong and doesn't have a lot of flex/bend to it. Much stronger than corner bead used with drywall (thanks for the tip on this bpape!!!). I used a 4 1/2" grinder to cut out the part where the speaker fits in. There's about 1 1/2" of clearance behind the speaker since it's rear ported. I know you're supposed to leave more than that, but it's a sacrifice I'm making to keep the columns from protruding into the room too much.

I plan on taking some electrical tape or something and putting it on the metal so I don't scratch up the speakers. I'll probably cut a small piece of carpet or something like that to rest each speaker on.

Jerrod
If you mentioned it I glossed over it.

What are the dimensions of your HT room, and how far out does your stage come?

Thanks

Jerrod
If you mentioned it I glossed over it.

What are the dimensions of your HT room, and how far out does your stage come?

Thanks
It's somewhere in the mess.... room is 14x20. The riser is 76" deep and the stage is about 48" in the middle. It curves to about 42" from the front wall on both sides.

The ceiling is about 101" and under the soffits it's 89 1/2"..... that's most of the dimensions I can think of.

Speaking of the cables from Monoprice..... Here's some pics of them. They all came wrapped in shrink wrap and in plastic bags. All of the connectors had additional bags over them secured with rubber bands. They have regular cables and Premium cables. I bought all Premium cables since those "higher" prices were still much less than others.

I know this comment is a little late to the party, but...

Monoprice has to be the greatest screaming bargain out there. I've now ordered a bunch of stuff from them over several orders. Maybe price is no object for a fortunate few out there, but you can't beat the quality from these guys and it would be a bargain at twice the price!

Jerrod
How did you decide where to locate the 2 inch conduit ceiling hole going to the projector if you hadn't bought a PJ. I'm in the same boat, and I don't know where to cut the ceiling hole without buying a PJ.

Thanks

I know this comment is a little late to the party, but...

Monoprice has to be the greatest screaming bargain out there. I've now ordered a bunch of stuff from them over several orders. Maybe price is no object for a fortunate few out there, but you can't beat the quality from these guys and it would be a bargain at twice the price!

Yeah, I doubt I'll buy another cable from anywhere else except monoprice!

Jerrod
How did you decide where to locate the 2 inch conduit ceiling hole going to the projector if you hadn't bought a PJ. I'm in the same boat, and I don't know where to cut the ceiling hole without buying a PJ.

Thanks
My original thought was to put it around 14-15 feet from the screen. That seemed to be a good distance given the throw distances for the projectors I was looking at. Well, very late in the game I decided I'm going with a 2.35 constant height setup, and with that a longer throw is better. So, my projector will most likely be mounted "behind" the electrical outlet and conduit. I'll have to run the cables from the back of the porjector, towards the front of the room and the conduit and outlet. A longer throw (1.8 - 2.0 times the screen width is preferred for CIH setup with an anamorphic lens.

BTW, I ordered the Panamorph U80 lens yesterday. My Panny AE900 is being delivered tomorrow (finally) and the lens shouldn't be too far behind......

While not optimal to have a rear port anywhere near that close, in this case, it probably won't matter much. The speakers will be crossed over much higher than the port tuning anyway. Might be better off to stuff the port to tighten things up a little bit since even with the xover, there will still be some decent signal at port tuning.

While not optimal to have a rear port anywhere near that close, in this case, it probably won't matter much. The speakers will be crossed over much higher than the port tuning anyway. Might be better off to stuff the port to tighten things up a little bit since even with the xover, there will still be some decent signal at port tuning.

Yeah, I realize that.... but like you said, they'll be crossed over and they're only surrounds. I wouldn't do it for the mains or center. The couple extra inches I gain on the sides will be worth it, and besides, I have yet to even hook up the 170's. Once they're in place, I really won't know "how good" they might sound with a 3-4" gap behind them.

I'll check with Dave at Ascend about plugging them. I've heard of some people doing this (ebr maybe???) but want to check it out first.

Got some more work done tonight, but not a ton. A couple quick pics of the stage and riser. I sealed some of the seams with that blow in foam. I had an extra can and instead of returning, I just figured I'd squirt it around in the gaps around the riser and stage.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0710.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/other/IMG_0711.jpg

Worked more on the columns during lunch and this evening. I nearly have them done, just need to cut the angle channel tomorrow outside (it causes quite a smell, so I want to do it outside). I have everything else prepared and ready to go.

This pic shows the right side of the room. You can see the upper part of the first column just hanging there. Once I have the metal pieces cut, I'll put it all together. A side surround speaker goes in that column.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0705.jpg


Hopefully I can get these wrapped up tomorrow.

OK, I need some opinions on something related to the columns....

Here's the floor plan I'm working from right now.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/Current_Layout_235.jpg

The column I circled in red is up in the air. I'm not 100% convinced I want to build it and put it on the wall. Part of me says the room won't look right on that area without it. On the opposite wall is the entry door, so I'm kinda looking at it from the point of view of having mirrored columns on the left and right. But, that will leave me with a decent space without a column.

Here's a pictures of the spot. I attached a mock column to the wall just to indicate where it would go.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0708.jpg

I think it needs to be there, but would like some opinions..... I have wiring there for an outlet too.

Thanks!

Jerrod,

I agree that it would not look right without the column (in red) however, since I am of a symmetrical mind I say either don't use it or maybe you can leave the middle columns in place and move the back columns (on the side walls) closer towards the middle columns and then you could add two new columns on both side walls (One where the column in the red circle is and another on the door wall.) Just move those new columns closer to the middle ones.

Of course this would depend on what type of wall sconces you want to use. See attached diagram for a better understanding.

Drew

Instead of a column, could you make an acoustical panel that closely resembles the column size and shape and mount it to the wall. Visually it might do the trick.

How about two columns on each side wall, but move the forward ones further forward?

Yeah, I realize that.... but like you said, they'll be crossed over and they're only surrounds. I wouldn't do it for the mains or center. The couple extra inches I gain on the sides will be worth it, and besides, I have yet to even hook up the 170's. Once they're in place, I really won't know "how good" they might sound with a 3-4" gap behind them.

I'll check with Dave at Ascend about plugging them. I've heard of some people doing this (ebr maybe???) but want to check it out first.
I asked Dave this very question already. Here is his answer:

QUESTION: If I sealed/plugged the port on the 170, what would happen? Would I just lose some of the lower bass response (assume AVR x-over at 80hz)?

DAVE's ANSWER: You would lose bass extension and cause an unnatural "bump" in the response in the 100Hz range. Plugging the port will also increase distortion. You can do it if you must, but I don't recommend it.

I'd go with the column, personally. Think of it as columns around the sides and back, and the door is an anomaly.

I also like Scott's idea about spreading the side columns out, but only if the rear columns are similarly distanced from each other.

Regarding the columns, I decided to build it last night and got it done. I just didn't think it would look right without it. I couldn't move any of them forward or backward since the one has to be on the side of the 1st row of seats for the speakers. That one's a given and I had to space things out and compromise with the other columns and sconces. I have about 44" in between the columns that will be fabric.

Thanks for the opinions!

I asked Dave this very question already. Here is his answer:

QUESTION: If I sealed/plugged the port on the 170, what would happen? Would I just lose some of the lower bass response (assume AVR x-over at 80hz)?

DAVE's ANSWER: You would lose bass extension and cause an unnatural "bump" in the response in the 100Hz range. Plugging the port will also increase distortion. You can do it if you must, but I don't recommend it.

I guess I won't do it then. Thanks for saving me some time.

Though I like symmetry, there is something you can't do. Since when someone first enters the room, they look at the wall with the columns first, that'll give them the 1st impression about your HT space. The columns in my HT is not symmetric either due to the entrance door because it's on the sides also.

I'm planning to copy your curve soffit also. I like your clever idea of not putting load on the ceiling since it has rsic clips.
Keep up the good work.

Got all of the columns finished up.....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0712.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0713.jpg

Bought an HDMI cable and ran it thru the 2" conduit to the projector. It's the one hanging on the left.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0715.jpg

Here's all of the wires I have coming to the front of the room. I put in a 2" conduit and certainly recommend anyone doing this to use 3" or larger. I have 3 speaker runs, subwoofer cable, component video, optical audio, stereo audio and IR wiring going from the EQ rack to here. It simply wouldn't fit (easily) in the conduit so the sub cable and IR cable are outside of the conduit.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0716.jpg

Many install an empty conduit for future uses, and run all initial cabling outside the conduit (or run two, with existing in one, plus an extra one).

Many install an empty conduit for future uses, and run all initial cabling outside the conduit (or run two, with existing in one, plus an extra one).
I'm with Miltimj on this. I recommend you run the wires outside the conduit and leave them empty or like Miltimj suggested to allow for future wiring upgrades.

Yeah, I did that for the projector run, but not for the speaker wires. I can't tell you why I did that way either.... must not of been thinking again!

Haven't done much that's noticeable the past week or so. I did receive my Panamorph U80 anamorphic lens yesterday. I can't wait until this setup is on my ceiling!!!

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0728.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0732.jpg

I have filled some of the columns with insulation and have to get more to finish up. I also wired up the outlets that will be in the columns. These are just to pass code and won't be used for anything. I'm putting them on the sides and not the front so they'll be hidden a bit. I started putting more drywall on the soffits too.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0723.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0724.jpg

Finished the step for the stage. The stage is 12" up, so I just split the difference and built a 20" wide step in the dead center of the stage.... nothing special.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0721.jpg

I cut some slits in the back of the plywood just to make it bend a bit easier. The plwood step is rounded to match the stage and I wasn't real concerned about the face of the step being a nice arc. Under the lip of the step you'll never notice. I used a treated 2x10 base on the floor and screwed it in with 2 Tapcon screws.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0722.jpg

I had some extra rubber laying around from my shower pan and figured I'd lay a couple strips and use that for my sandwich. It's for nothing other than reducing landfill space.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0726.jpg

And the finished product....
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0727.jpg

No insulation in the step? Otherwise, looking good.

Looking good. I'm curious how than lens works out for you. Try and get some screen shots when you get it up and running.

Bud

No insulation in the step? Otherwise, looking good.

Yeah, I filled it with fiberglass, just figured I've got enough pictures in this thread and I didn't really need a pic of that. Trust me though, it's there.

Looking good. I'm curious how than lens works out for you. Try and get some screen shots when you get it up and running.

Bud
I can't wait either!

I've used the projector once so far. We had an outdoor party at my neighbors for game 6 of the NHL finals (the one the Canes got blown away). My neighbor and I built a frame and attached 2 sheets of drywall to it. This was our screen.

We sat outside and watched the hockey game and man it looked good. Definitely provided some motivation to get the room finished! Unfortunately, I didn't get a picture of it.

I would like to see how that looks with the anamorph lens too..i have ben teetering with that PJ and a higher dollar optoma...but im nbot sure which one will accept which particular types of lens's so im anxious toi see your results...

Everything is looking good..keep it up

I would like to see how that looks with the anamorph lens too..i have ben teetering with that PJ and a higher dollar optoma...but im nbot sure which one will accept which particular types of lens's so im anxious toi see your results...

Everything is looking good..keep it up

I read about a number of people using the 900 with a lens. With the 3 chip DLP projectors out now, I figured I'd go for a cheaper projector and get a lens and scaler for the same price I was initially planning on spending on a projector. That way, I'll have the lens and scaler already and will upgrade the projector in a couple years when prices are more reasonable.

I don't have the scaler yet, but it's certainly in the budget because the Panny was just such a great deal!

Very interesting and such a nice place. i'll follow this waiting to see the end of the work ;)
I hope in a near future to have the opportunity to build my own theatre and you gave me many ideas for this.

Very interesting and such a nice place. i'll follow this waiting to see the end of the work ;)
I hope in a near future to have the opportunity to build my own theatre and you gave me many ideas for this.

Glad to hear some of this helps others!

I've made a bit of an aesthetic change in the last couple of weeks. I originally planned on doing birch plywood (with stain) on the bottom of the walls and fabric on the top. Home Theater magazine has a section in it called Audio Video Interiors. They had some pictures of a theater that had bead board on the bottom and my wife and I loved it. We were already planning bead board for a good portion of the reat of the basement, and decided to use it.

I just picked up 6 sheets of it and bought some different stains to test and see which ones I like. I'll post some pics of it for opinions....

I ordered the cotton and 703 from bpape last week and it should arrive by Friday. I absolutely recommend working with him and he really worked extra to meet my budget and come up with different ideas.

I have yet to order the fabric for the walls or the black fabric for soffits, columns and around the stage.

My HVAC crew is coming on Thursday to install the heat pump and air handler. Should only take 1 day for them to install the system and get it running.

My painter (same company that drywalled the rest of the basement) is coming Saturday to primer the entire basement, except the HT.

My wife is pregnant and due on July 17, so I'm trying like hell to get as much done as I can before baby #2 comes along. I'm sure some of you can relate.... :)

HEre's some pictures of the bead board and stains. It's hard to tell from the pictures, but here they are anyways. I applied to stain to the backside of a piece of white birch. I will use it for the front of the soffit and stage. I stained the back, so it's not as nice as the front and has more knots in it. The bottom of each "Swatch" is the second coat so I could compare 1 versus 2 coats.

These are all Minwax oil based stain. The left is English Chestnut, the middle is Red Mohaghany and the right is Dark Walnut.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0736.jpg

The is a closeup of the Chestnut
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0739.jpg

Mohaghany closeup
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0740.jpg

Walnut closeup
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0741.jpg


HEre's a pic of the bead board. Got all of this from Lowes. It's 5.0mm white brich and should look sweet once I get it done!
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0743.jpg


Personally, I like the English Chestnut better than the others.

I agree.. I like English Chestnut the most as well. I'm looking forward to seeing how it looks, as I haven't seen that before.

English Chestnut it is!

I think instead of staining the full sheets and cutting them to fit, I'm going to do all the cutting and get the pieces installed... then stain. I don't know that it will save me a ton of time, but I'm just dying to get this stuff on the walls!

Got quite a bit done today.....

Behind the bead board I just took a piece of R-13 and split it in half and put it on the wall. Bryan Pape suggested this instead of 703 to help save me money on the treatments. While it won't perform as well, it will be a good compromise for me.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0753.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0754.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0755.jpg

On the rear wall, I will use 703 and a bit of a different design. Once I receive it all, I'll get more into it. I just stapled it to the drywall to hold it in place.

Then I added the bead board.....

Here's the left side of the room.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0759.jpg

Here's where the stage meets the side wall. I just notched it out.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0758.jpg

Here's the right side, towards the rear of the room.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0760.jpg

Here's the left side with the columns covered.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0763.jpg

And the right side again.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0764.jpg

I will put corner mold in the inner and outer corners to cover up the nails and all that.

Finally, I added a piece of thin birch to the stage soffitt. I put the seam on the right side. I'll cover this with a piece of molding, and I'll put a piece on the left side as well just to make it look symmetric.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0765.jpg

Here you can see a closeup of the grain. Once it's stained, I think it will look sweet!
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0767.jpg

Jerrod, how thin is that birch plywood (1/4")? Also what is the thickness of the bead board? I had thought of those a while ago but was not sure of the look. I like it so far on yours. Oh and I like the Chestnut with two coats. Ar you going to put a clear coat (deft, etc) on as well?

Drew

Jerrod - moving along fast and looking good.

What is the science behind the panelling. I've been discussing a similar solution with Bryan but that involves a 2x4 stud cavity, 2x2 with 1" 703 on top.

Cheers,
Mark

Jerrod, how thin is that birch plywood (1/4")? Also what is the thickness of the bead board? I had thought of those a while ago but was not sure of the look. I like it so far on yours. Oh and I like the Chestnut with two coats. Ar you going to put a clear coat (deft, etc) on as well?

Drew

Drew,

The bead board is 5 mm (13/64") and the birch is roughly the same thickness. It contoured nicely on the front soffitt. Yes, I do plan on some kind of clear/seal coat. I haven't really looked into what I'll use though. I don't want anything glossy.

Jerrod - moving along fast and looking good.

What is the science behind the panelling. I've been discussing a similar solution with Bryan but that involves a 2x4 stud cavity, 2x2 with 1" 703 on top.

Cheers,
Mark

On the side walls, there's no science. The rear wall will have a 3 1/2" cavity and the bead board will be sealed. I'll put 703 in the cavity and the bead board will act as a drum head. I think it's for low/mid bass control..... Bryan is the one that can answer that. I couldn't use floor to ceiling corner traps in the front of the room because of my sub and HVAC return, so we had to compromise with other treatments.

Mohaghany closeup
http://pics.loosechangerocks.net/IMG_0740_1.JPG

Walnut closeup
http://pics.loosechangerocks.net/IMG_0741_1.JPG



Hi Jarrod,

It's looking great! I noticed that there are some stain "blotches" on the plywood bead board. This is caused by uneven penetration of the stain. You might experiment with a light, thinned coat of shellac and try staining again. It will help the stain penetrate evenly and prevent the blotches. You can get a "2 lb cut" can of shellac at the big box store and dilute it 50% with denatured alcohol. It should be worth your time for a better look.

If you give the experiment a try, please post pics so we can all see the results.

Keep up the great work,
Scott

I had considered doing some type of board on teh bottom half as well and I like the look you have going there. I am anxious to see it all stained and beside the GOM above it....

Looks great!

Robert

Hi Jarrod,

It's looking great! I noticed that there are some stain "blotches" on the plywood bead board. This is caused by uneven penetration of the stain. You might experiment with a light, thinned coat of shellac and try staining again. It will help the stain penetrate evenly and prevent the blotches. You can get a "2 lb cut" can of shellac at the big box store and dilute it 50% with denatured alcohol. It should be worth your time for a better look.

If you give the experiment a try, please post pics so we can all see the results.

Keep up the great work,
Scott

I think I mentioned somewhere that I applied to stain to the back of a piece of 1/4" birch and it was the unifinished side. Also, I did not apply the pre-stain conditioner so that will help. I might try and get the conditioner applied today and start staining in a couple days.... I hope.

I had considered doing some type of board on teh bottom half as well and I like the look you have going there. I am anxious to see it all stained and beside the GOM above it....

Looks great!

Robert

I can't wait until it's done either. I'm not doing actual GOM in the panels. I'm deciding between 2 different fabrics at JoAnn right now. I'm guessing they'll have a 50% off sale for July 4th like they ususally do on holidays. Once I decide, I'll post the pics.

I think I mentioned somewhere that I applied to stain to the back of a piece of 1/4" birch and it was the unifinished side. Also, I did not apply the pre-stain conditioner so that will help. I might try and get the conditioner applied today and start staining in a couple days.... I hope.

Jerrod,

The pre-stain conditioner (Olympia) that I used on Ply was to only set for 30-60 minutes before staining. What type are you using?

Jerrod,

The pre-stain conditioner (Olympia) that I used on Ply was to only set for 30-60 minutes before staining. What type are you using?

I hadn't read the label yet.... I'm using Minwax and it says to apply stain within 2 hours of putting on the conditioner. I guess that's what I'll do.

Received all of the 703 and bulk cotton from Bryan yesterday. Started installing some of it last night.....

Here's the boxes
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0770.jpg

I cut some spacers and screwed to the drywall so there's a gap between the 703 and drywall. It also brought the 703 out flush with the beadboard.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0771.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0773.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0774.jpg

In the last pic, you'll notice I have a large piece of wood in between columns. This is to mount the sconces on. I made sure the wood completely covers the box on the wall. There's a 3/4" hole for the wires. Some of the pieces are larger than others, but I at least wanted to get a couple screws into the studs behind the drywall. I also used liquid nails on the back of the pieces.

So once I had the 703 up on the side walls, I started putting scrim up on the rear sections of the wall. I didn't feel like disconnecting my lights to put the scrim on, so I just slid the scrim behind the fixutre. Here's what happened
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0778.jpg

:eek: :eek: :eek: The scrim touched the leads on the back of the fixture, sparks flew and the breaker tripped... so I was in the dark anyways.

More pics of the scrim installed.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0780.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0781.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0792.jpg

The bottom of the rear wall is being used as a bass absorber. I'm using 1" 703 here as well.. spaced off the wall again.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0782.jpg

Here it is with the 703 in.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0784.jpg

And the top piece screwed on.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0785.jpg

All the panels done. Each panel is caulked all the way around on the back to "seal" it to the frame. All of this per Bryan's instructions.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0786.jpg

So, I was so excited to get the stage and soffits done, I didn't box in my HVAC return in the front of the room. It was a bit of a pain to squeeze a frame in there, get the drywall in and then caulk all the seams.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0787.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0789.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0791.jpg

I filled in the space with insulation before covering it with drywall. The main reason I wanted this covered and sealed is to prevent sound from escaping the room around the ductwork.

Great work, Jerrod. It's coming together nicely. What is scrim for? I've seen it mentioned only a few times on this forum, and don't understand the concept.. I'd imagine you'd want AT fabric right in front of the 703.

What is scrim for? I've seen it mentioned only a few times on this forum, and don't understand the concept.. .
Tim,

I answer for Jerrod.. scrim basically reflects the highs but allows the lows to still penetrate. The scrim keeps the room from being too dead. It's a bpape trick that works quite well. He also mentioned butcher paper can do the same thing (just not as efficiently). I think SandmanX used butcher paper in his room.

Tim,

I answer for Jerrod.. scrim basically reflects the highs but allows the lows to still penetrate. The scrim keeps the room from being too dead. It's a bpape trick that works quite well. He also mentioned butcher paper can do the same thing (just not as efficiently). I think SandmanX used butcher paper in his room.

That's pretty much what I was going to say. While I don't know for sure, I think Bryan had me put it on the rear part of the side walls to keep the highs "active" in that area where the seats will be. I don't know that the fabric I'm looking at is completely transparent.... Jo-Ann Fabrics is having a 50% sale starting Saturday and I already know which fabric I want/ I'll post pics sometime over the weekend.

Took care of some odds and ends today. First of all, the HVAC contractor was here and installed the heat pump and air handler. They'll hopefully be back tomorrow to finish up and startup the system. Here's a shot of the air handler in the closet....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0793.jpg

The guys positioned the HT supplies so I finished up the drywall on the soffitts....
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0794.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0795.jpg

I am going to add a second layer of drywall on the underside and either a sheet of 1/2" or 3/4" birch plywood or the 1/4" birch on the sides of the soffitt to match the front soffitt above the stage. I will put black fabric over the drywall on the bottom of the soffits.

I also finished up some work on the riser and stage. Here's the riser steps I built.... I had scraps of 703 laying around and filled the steps with it.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0798.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0800.jpg


For the stage, I added the 1/4" birch to the face of the stage and step. This will be stained to match the bead board on the walls. I also caulked the bottom of the stage for some reason.... I just felt like it I guess.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0801.jpg

The idea with the scrim'd panels in the rear was that I wanted to provide some additional upper bass/lower midrange absorbtion in general and also needed some additional in the rear of the room to help smooth things out. This did both.

Bryan

Jerrod - man you flying - putting me to shame :o

I second that!! Looking gooood!

Thanks guys! I've been pushing hard lately to get as much done as possible. Baby #2 is currently scheduled for arrival on July 17, and once that happens I'll have a lot less time to work downstairs....

I ordered my black fabric from Dazian today. (http://www.dazian.com/cgi-bin/page.pl?action=show_order_color&style_id=253&group_id=153&style_color_id=957&cat_id=0&color_family_id=10) In total, I ordered 37 yards to take care of the front wall, soffitt bottoms, star ceiling, etc.

I also ordered some Belkin PureAV power conditioners. I'll use the PF60 (http://catalog.belkin.com/PureAV_detail.process?Product_Id=178925) for the equipment rack.
http://images.belkin.com/AP41300-12/FUL1_AP41300-12.jpg

I also picked up the Home Theater Battery Backup (http://catalog.belkin.com/PureAV_detail.process?Product_Id=195291#) that I'll use for my router, cable modem and whole house audio stuff that will go under my stairs.
http://images.belkin.com/AP30800-10/FUL1_AP30800-10.jpg

Worked some in the theater last night. Not much to show though.... I added the second layer of drywall with GG to the underside of the soffits. I also sealed up all the openings intp the soffitts, including the HVAC supplies.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0813.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0815.jpg

The painter was here today and primered the reast of basement, except the HT. Nothing special... but here's some before and after pics. He tinted the primer a light tan sine we're going to use paint in the brown family. My wife and I are going to pick that out Monday.

This is where the pool table and card table will go. Once again, the doorway is being closed off and a fireplace installed.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0803.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0807.jpg


This is looking at the kitchen/bar area.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0804.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0808.jpg


Another view back towards the pool area.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0805.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0809.jpg


The kids HT and workout room
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0810.jpg


The hall outside the HT.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0811.jpg

Jerrod, are you not going to texture your walls? Or are they just going to be flat. If you are going to texture I thought texturing before priming was optimal.

Drew

This is the first HT I've seen here (in my short viewing time) with solid wood below chair rail height along side walls. It seems most other HT has the Linacoustic below with batting above, all covered with GOM.

Won't the beadboard bounce the sound around, or is the 703 on top half of walls compensating for that?

BTW, looks great!

Jerrod, are you not going to texture your walls? Or are they just going to be flat. If you are going to texture I thought texturing before priming was optimal.

Drew

No texture on the walls.... That's too much work! :D

We might do some ragging or sponging.... somthing like that but no texture.

This is the first HT I've seen here (in my short viewing time) with solid wood below chair rail height along side walls. It seems most other HT has the Linacoustic below with batting above, all covered with GOM.

Won't the beadboard bounce the sound around, or is the 703 on top half of walls compensating for that?

BTW, looks great!

Thanks! The beadboard will probably bounce some sounds, but the wood is only 39 1/2" above the floor. So, it's below ear level and that was something I was advised to do, and knew I had to do. On the riser, the wood is only 27" above it, so it's well below ear level. With the fabric and insulation all the way around, plus the fact that the columns will be "open" and are packed with insulation, it should help deaden things out just fine.

Moving right along, started staining the bead board in the HT yesterday. What a nice smell that is!

I used Minwax stain... and used pre-conditioner since the wood I used is birch and is considered soft.
http://www.minwax.com/images/Products/prestain.jpg

As stated earlier, I used the English Chestnut stain. It's oil based....

Here's a shot of the bear boad with 1 coat on. I waited a good 40-45 minutes and then went over it with a towel to remove any remaining stain... as well as to blend the light and dark spots. Honestly, the first coat looking really good and I even considered leaving it as is....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0868.jpg


Here's a pic of the stage soffit. The flash makes the grain if the wood more visible that it actually is.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0873.jpg


Here's a couple shots after the second coat.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0885.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0888.jpg

Here's the left side of the room

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0880.jpg


And the rear. You can also see in this one that I added some 2" 703 to the rear walls. I still have to finish it up though.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0881.jpg


I also covered the front wall with 2" 703.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0879.jpg

I used a 3M spray adhesive (called Super 77 I think) and it worked great. I also used some 3" screws and washers for some extra support. The uncovered areas on the left will probably get some 1" on them. I need room to be able to replace the filter on the HVAC return. The space under the screen will be covered on I have the screen and locate a 2x4 on the bottom for support. On the right side will be the sub and I'm leaving that space uncovered.

Speaking of screens, I finally placed my order for a 120" Carada screen. I got the 2.35 size and the Brilliant White material. Should have it by the beginning of next week.....

Jerrod - that stain looks really nice! I'm sure that the pictures don't do it justice. Keep up the great work!

Wow man, thats looking sweet. Nice stain color choice also. :D

Ronnie

Wow man, thats looking sweet. Nice stain color choice also. :D

Ronnie

Thanks guys!

I was so freakin excited to get stain on the walls. I let the whole basement air out last night and all day today. The only issue I'm having is that it's 95 degrees outside and my once cool and comfortable (70 degrees with no AC) is quite warm and humid now!

Jerrod - I notice you put your 703 diagonal across the screen wall.....was this done for any particular reason?

Looking good.

I'm having to go slower as the Wife is fed up with me being in basement.....so I'm on rations :(

I forgot to post info on the fabric. I found it in the special fabrics section at JoAnn's. It's made by Barrow. They didn't have the exact color on their website, but it looks something like this.....

http://www.barrowindustries.com/cdimages%5CM6839-SAFF.JPG

The design is identical, but the color we got is goldish based with some red in the design..... It should be delivered in about 2 weeks

EDIT - I guess the link is broken. You'll see the fabric later on....

Jerrod - I notice you put your 703 diagonal across the screen wall.....was this done for any particular reason?

Looking good.

I'm having to go slower as the Wife is fed up with me being in basement.....so I'm on rations :(


I am in the same boat.. However, I am taking her on a week long vacation, so maybe I can get out of the dog house and into the basement.

Jerrod everything is looking good. I am stuck in faux painting hell right now.

Drew

Jerrod - I notice you put your 703 diagonal across the screen wall.....was this done for any particular reason?

Looking good.

I'm having to go slower as the Wife is fed up with me being in basement.....so I'm on rations :(

I missed your post there.... I kind of explained it above. the HVAC return is on the left side, and it only has a 2x4 framed around it. With the 703 being 2", it sticks out further than the opening and the grill. So, to make it fairly easy to replace the filter, I left a gap there. On the right side, the sub will be on the floor and I don't want the 703 behind the sub. Besides losing 2" I just don't want the insulation behind or beside the sub. I don't know if this will make a large acoustical difference, but that's just how I want it.

I will eventually fill in the bottom of the wall with insulation, but I need to locate a 2x4 somewhere on the wall for the bottom screen support/mount.

I am in the same boat.. However, I am taking her on a week long vacation, so maybe I can get out of the dog house and into the basement.

Jerrod everything is looking good. I am stuck in faux painting hell right now.

Drew
Thanks man.... I'm in the hell of fumes from the stain and waitin on my black fabirc and wall fabric. I'm getting close now so I'm getting more and more anxious. I still haven't bought a projector mount. Since I don't have it I'm not tempted to even hang the projector. :D

Stain looks great. Glad you used that conditioner 1st -- it really makes a HUGE difference. I can't wait to see your 2.35:1 screen installed. I'm still contemplating my ratio. I need to be sure the wife can do it when I'm not home.

I may have missed it but what lens do you plan to use? Or are you using the ZOOM Out option for now?

Stain looks great. Glad you used that conditioner 1st -- it really makes a HUGE difference. I can't wait to see your 2.35:1 screen installed. I'm still contemplating my ratio. I need to be sure the wife can do it when I'm not home.

I may have missed it but what lens do you plan to use? Or are you using the ZOOM Out option for now?

Thanks man!

I bought the Panamorph U80 lens. I've yet to use it yet and am putting off the temptation to hook things up. Once I have my fabric installed (hopefully in about 3 weeks) I will hang the projector and see how things work. I also plan to leave the lens in place all the time and just let the projector re-scale HD content. I lose a bit on detail, but I'll see what it looks like before deciding to remove the lens all the time.

Thanks man!

I bought the Panamorph U80 lens. I've yet to use it yet and am putting off the temptation to hook things up. Once I have my fabric installed (hopefully in about 3 weeks) I will hang the projector and see how things work. I also plan to leave the lens in place all the time and just let the projector re-scale HD content. I lose a bit on detail, but I'll see what it looks like before deciding to remove the lens all the time.
Since you have not bought a projector yet, what do you have in mind? I've narrowed mine down to the Panny 900U, Infocus IN76, a used Optima H79 or the Samsung H710 (based on your recommendation).

EDIT - I misread your post a few posts up. You already have your projector -- you just need the mount. Sorry :)

The discount and good performance of the Panny was too much to pass up! I got a lens and hopefully a scaler by the end of the year and I should have a system that will keep me happy for years. It also gives me the ability in a couple years to tell me wife that I need a new one since I bought a "cheap" one before..... hehe

Love the stain. The stage soffit looks really sweet.

What type of door are you using for this room? Oh and out of curiosity, how come you didn't use a subfloor like Dricore?

Am impressed with the work thus far both in the HT and the rest of the basement.

[QUOTE=jerrodshook]
The kids HT and workout room
http://pics.loosechangerocks.net/IMG_0810_1.JPG


QUOTE]


I love the Green Glue on the Couch. Being a newbie I was just wondering if there is an acoustical advantage with this...................... ;)

Love the stain. The stage soffit looks really sweet.

What type of door are you using for this room? Oh and out of curiosity, how come you didn't use a subfloor like Dricore?

Am impressed with the work thus far both in the HT and the rest of the basement.

Thanks!

The door I got is an unfinished solid (6 panel I think) Mahoghany door with a custom 10" jamb and threshold. It's actually part of a french door setup that was left over for some reason. It was on a clearance rack at a door store here in Raleigh for $100. Adding in the jamb and everything increased the price quite a bit, but it's still a steal!

Here's the exterior door that I'm getting for entrance into the basement from the back yard.
http://www.doorstoreusa.com/images/products/129__big.jpg

Here's the interior doors I'm getting. They kind of match the bead board I'll use...
http://www.doorstoreusa.com/images/products/133__big.jpg

They'll all be unfinished and I'll stain them to match the rest of the trim and beadboard.

I thought about using Dricore, but I've had zero issues with water or any type of moisture in my basement. For over 1,700 sq ft, it would have been a bit pricy so I decided against it.

I love the Green Glue on the Couch. Being a newbie I was just wondering if there is an acoustical advantage with this...................... ;)

hehe.... it's just masking tape that looks a bit green for some reason....

The HT door looks like this (I think) minus the storm door.....

http://www.doorstoreusa.com/images/products/119__big.jpg

A couple final updates for the night....

1. I painted the wood on the stage and underside of the stage soffitt and side soffits black so it will cover nicely with black fabric. I'll post pictures later.

2. Bought the Chief RPA-U Universal mount for the projector. I got it from thefinalclick.com

3. Also bought the Oppo 971 DVD player. It just doesn't seem like the quality vs. price can be beat.

4. The black Dazian fabric should be delivered tomorrow.

5. The rest of the basement will be painted on Saturday.

6. Hopefully I'll order the carpet and the molding/bead board the rest of the basement tomorrow.

Nothing wrong with a little humor during all of your hard work..things look fantastic.

Nothing wrong with a little humor during all of your hard work..things look fantastic.

Absolutely! I need some humor....

Well, I saw that Bud posted a budget a couple days ago and I've been keeping track of everything I spent on the basement. Here's the complete list. It includes everything including wood, nails, screws, insulation, electronics, speakers, wire, permit, HVAC work, paint, carpet, screen, fabric, tools, etc.... It's kind of split up, but pretty much by receipt so I don't have an exact count of everything, just the dollar amount.

It's above budget, but I kind of knew it would be. I decided I wanted the room done right and if it took a while to get done, so be it. I didn't want to limit myself to a set budget only to have the urge to "fix" something a year later.

Just a reminder, the enitre basement is around 1,800 sq feet and I've done everything myself except HVAC, Drywall (except HT) and primer/paint. I could only imagine what the price tag would be if someone else was doing all the work.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Budget7-7-06.jpg

Wow :eek: and I thought I spent a lot on my doors. I had been posting my costs but have not kept up with it in the thread. I will post a final total as well and I am hoping it does not come out as high as yours ;) Of course I am only finishing 1000 sq ft of a 1300 sq ft basement.

I did not notice HT chairs? Or did I just miss it?

Drew

Yeah, me too. I thought I spent a lot on doors. Geez! I still need to go back through all my receipts to generate my actuals. We're not too far off though from each other, although sounds like you have a bigger space.

Bud

Wow :eek: and I thought I spent a lot on my doors. I had been posting my costs but have not kept up with it in the thread. I will post a final total as well and I am hoping it does not come out as high as yours ;) Of course I am only finishing 1000 sq ft of a 1300 sq ft basement.

I did not notice HT chairs? Or did I just miss it?

Drew

Yeah, the doors weren't cheap.... :( But I had 7 interior doors at $300 apiece, the HT door is $450 and the exterior french door to my patio is around $1,600. Add in delivery and tax and you get $4,507. The custom jamb for the HT cost money too. The doors look great and are solid mahoghany.... I'm trying to justify the price in my head.

As far as chairs, that's the only major thing I haven't accounted for yet. I'm seriously thinking about the Berks and the Powerbuy that Roman has right now. I'm also looking at the Barcoloungers. Unfortunately I'd be buying all of these without sitting in them. I have tried out some 94's at a local dealer, but that's all he had.

I'll get everything done, but I don't know if I'm going to have enough money to buy the chairs! :eek: :eek: :eek:

Yeah, me too. I thought I spent a lot on doors. Geez! I still need to go back through all my receipts to generate my actuals. We're not too far off though from each other, although sounds like you have a bigger space.

Bud

Don't remind me how much space there is.... I like having the big house, but man I was hating how much space I have since there was so much to finish and I wanted to get it all done at the same time.

It still amazes me looking back on what the basement looked like before I started! This is where the theater is. When we move into the house 2 years ago, I painted a "large" box on the wall representing the 60" TV I'd be getting..... I even had the speakers marked out on the floor ( I planned on floor standing Def Techs at the time).

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_5901.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/img6037.jpg

This taken from where the equipment closet/hallway is.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/img6057.jpg

Jerrod.

Did you bond the scrim to the 703? It should be glued. Also, some others have preferred the shiny side in and brown side out to minimize see through on the cloth.

Bryan

Jerrod.

Did you bond the scrim to the 703? It should be glued. Also, some others have preferred the shiny side in and brown side out to minimize see through on the cloth.

Bryan

No, didn't know I needed to..... hmm. It's only stapled on so I gues I can remove it. Do I just use a spray adhesive?

My fabric should hide the solver color, but I may do that just to be safe. I also need more scrim for the rear and am not sure if you saw that on one of my emails. Let me know.

Thanks!

No, didn't know I needed to..... hmm. It's only stapled on so I gues I can remove it. Do I just use a spray adhesive?

My fabric should hide the solver color, but I may do that just to be safe. I also need more scrim for the rear and am not sure if you saw that on one of my emails. Let me know.

Thanks!

3M spray adhesive is what I used. The general purpose stuff. Works well on GOM too as well as Linacoustic.

Bud

Replied to your email.

Yes - 3m or Scotch 77 adhesive will work well. I swear we discussed bonding it - at least we caught it now.

Bryan

Well, the basement is painted. There's a couple areas that need touched up, but overall I'm happy with it. I started putting up more bead board today on the main room. Here's some pics....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0917.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0918.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0919.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0920.jpg

The kids room.... no bead board in here.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0921.jpg

And now some with the bead board up....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0928.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0929.jpg

This is the other side of the screen wall in the theater.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0930.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0932.jpg


I also put in the Phase Tech ceiling speakers....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0923.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0924.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0927.jpg

Finally..... painted the stage wood and underside of the soffits flat black. The soffits will be covered with black fabric. IT should arrive tomorrow and I might take Wednesday off to work downstairs.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0914.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0915.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0916.jpg


I'm contemplating hooking everything up for a movie next weekend. :) We'll see how it goes this week.....

Jerrod,

It's really coming together. Should prove to be a spectacular room!

Hey Jerrod,

Quick question for you. In an earlier post you mentioned that your basement was 70 degrees without A/C. How many walls on your exterior are below grade? I live just outside Charlotte and right now my walls are not insulated yet and it seems cool already, although not 70 degrees. I have 1 wall fully below grade and 2 or the remaining 3 are at least 1/2 below. Remaining wall is daylighted. I got curious and thought I would ask. It will dictate how much HVAC work I need to do to keep the area cool. Thanks.

John

Hey Jerrod,

Quick question for you. In an earlier post you mentioned that your basement was 70 degrees without A/C. How many walls on your exterior are below grade? I live just outside Charlotte and right now my walls are not insulated yet and it seems cool already, although not 70 degrees. I have 1 wall fully below grade and 2 or the remaining 3 are at least 1/2 below. Remaining wall is daylighted. I got curious and thought I would ask. It will dictate how much HVAC work I need to do to keep the area cool. Thanks.

John

John,

Sorry for being late to respond. The front of my house is totally below ground and the back is above groud. The dirt slopes down the side, so it sounds kind of like your house.

The system I put in is a 2 ton Carrier system with a variable spped air handler. I have to tell you that it's whisper quiet. Even at the HVAC returns, you have to kneel down beside it and listen closely to even tell it's on. So far, I love it!

Here's the dataspec on the heat pump (http://http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/groups/public/documents/techlit/38yxa-6pd.pdf)

Here's the dataspec on the Air Handler (http://http://www.xpedio.carrier.com/idc/groups/public/documents/marketing/08fv-4b0-020203.pdf)

The main reason I chose this system is because it controls humidty AND temperature.

I've got some more updates... on to the pics.

I painted the ceiling flat black, only 1 coat. I'll eventually put in a star ceiling so I didn't worry about sanding it or anything.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0943.jpg


I drywalled the inside of the equipment rack area. I bought some bulk wire cover plates to allow the component video cables and other cables to be easily run out of the wall.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0945_1.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0946_1.jpg

I flipped over the scrim on the sides and glued it to the walls. Bryan suggested doing this to reduce the chances of the foil being visible thru the fabric. I have to try and smooth it out a bit....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0944.jpg

HOW COOL IS THIS???

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0948.jpg


I worked on the black fabric on the screen yesterday and had to see the screen on the wall. This is a Carada 2:35 screen, Precision Series, 120" Diagonal.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0956.jpg

This is above the screen and is the covered bottom of the shelf that will support the center channel.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0958.jpg

Here's a closeup of the black fabric. I bought Dazian Expo Cloth and it is 48" wide. It has a nice pattern to it and is softer the 701 IMO. I also like that it has relatively tiny holes in it compared to the 701.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0934.jpg

Also received my fabric from JoAnn's.... It was a week or two faster than I originnaly thought, so that was a nice surprise. Here's some pics of 1 piece I put up on the wall.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0951.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0950.jpg


I love the look of it up against the wood. To make the bead board and the fabric meet, I nailed strips of bead around around the opening so that when the chair rail and corner molding is installed, it lays flat. Hopefully that makes sense.

Final update for today. My wife is having a C-section tomorrow morning, so the baby will be here and work downstairs will take a back seat for a while..... I can't wait!

Everything looks great! And as much as I would like to see the theater finish up at least it's being put on the back burner for a great reason...

I'll save the congrats on the little one for another time. :)

Nelson

Good luck with the baby. Hope all goes well.

Bryan

Looking good and good luck tomorrow.

Bud

Awesome 2.35:1 screen. I'm very jealous since I do not have mine up yet. Hope all goes well tomorrow!

Thanks everyone. The only problem with having that screen up is that my plans of watching a movie Saturday night have pretty much been foiled. :D

The C-section was originally planned for Monday and we found out today that it was moved to tomorrow. I was going to have a couple neighbors over for beer, cigars and a movie..... guess that's on hold. All for a good reason though!

Thanks everyone. The only problem with having that screen up is that my plans of watching a movie Saturday night have pretty much been foiled. :D

The C-section was originally planned for Monday and we found out today that it was moved to tomorrow. I was going to have a couple neighbors over for beer, cigars and a movie..... guess that's on hold. All for a good reason though!


Nice screen. You could always video the delivery, then slap it up on the 2.35 on Sat. :eek:

Good luck and congratulations.

Ronnie

Jerrod - Looking great and good luck tommorrow. Hope all goes well for the wife and the baby.

At least you will be able to test if the sound proofing works - it might be that the HT is the only place you can catch some zzzzzzz's :eek:

G'day mate,...Congrats with the baby's arrival...now tell your wife to hurry up I want see this HT get done!

:)

Thanks for the thoughts everyone! Welcome to the club dwegner! Trust me, I want it done more than anyone!

Oh, and I don't think I'd want to see a 120" image of the whole birthing process..... Ugh, my stomach is turning....

Too funny....

The screen and fabric look great...your really making some nice progress there.

Congrats and good luck with the baby.

Robert

Jerrod, looking good. Congrats on the soon to be new born. I agree with you on the c-section being on the 2.35. Sometimes larger than life is not a good thing ;) Hope mom and the newborn do well. See ya in a month or so.

Drew

Born Friday morning.... I have a son now!!! Unreal! We named him Austin and along with mom, they're both doing fine. He weighed 8 lbs 5 oz and has been sleeping like a champ! :)

I'm going to try and squeeze in some work on the HT over the next week while I'm on vacation. We'll see....

Congratulations! Now get back to work. :D

Congrats!!!!! Is that Austin "November" Shook? :)

Forget the theater, bond with the boy, wait hand and foot on the wife and get some rest. It'll be there next week... unless of course your inlaws are there helping out, then get back to work!

Bud

Jerrod,

Congratulation on your new son! If he's sleeping, then you'll be all rested up to do more work on the HT :D

Seriously, I think we can cut you some slack if you don't get much done on the room over the next few weeks ;)

Jarrod,
Congrats on the the theater -and the baby! -Not necessarily in that order. The theater is looking AWESOME! Best to Mom and Baby!
Lisa

Congrats on the new baby boy! My girlfriend became an aunt for the first time on Saturday. 8lb 6oz boy too. Take some time off, you'll need it when he decides he doesn't want to sleep anymore and would rather cry. :)

Nelson

Congrats on the new baby!



Oh ya, how did it look on the 120"er? :D


Ronnie

Congrats on the new boy...thats great. Glad to hear he and mom are both well.

Take some time off and spend it with your new family.

Robert

Congrats on the Boy!!! Yeah work on the theater.... Hah you are funny. Is this your first? It sounds like it may be. I am not sure you will be working to much on the HT this week. Besides like Bud said it will be there when you get back ;)

Drew

Jerrod,
Congrats on the baby boy! The theater can definitely wait. Spend time with the family. Your wife will appreciate all the help and support you can give her. Those newborns are a handful. I've got a 19 month old and my wife tells me she's still a handful. I plan to spend lots of time with her when I get home.

Theater looks great!

Congrats to you and the wife on the birth - must be first if you think your going to be working on HT (or got death wish). Forget HT for a couple of weeks - enjoy the moment and let waite on the wife. Get some brownie points in the bag and then get back to HT.

Cheers,
Mark

I know everybody else has already told you, but congratulations on your new baby boy!

congrats and glad things went well

OK, I'm back..... First of all, thank you everyone for the congratulations. This is child #2. Have a 3 year old daughter already. Didn't try the 120" thing either!!!

I have been able to get some work done the past week. Part of the time my daughter was at daycare so I was able to get some work done. My wife is a trooper and on a couple of occcasions told me to go downstairs and work. On to the pics....

Here's the door for the theater. It's solid mahoghany and I'll stain it to match the rest of the basement.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1093.jpg


This is half of the exterior french doors that will lead to the patio outside.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1095.jpg


I drywalled the equipment rack and added a couple of 2" pipe couplings to put the cables thru.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1062.jpg


I got this idea off anothe AVS'er.... I can't remember who though. I took standard closet shelf "hangers" and mounted them inside the front of the opening. I'll use 3/4" stained plywood as shelving.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1063.jpg

Here's the carpet we'll use in the theater. It's from Lowe's and is Mohawk brand I think...??? I can't remember. The picture makes it look much brighter than it really is. It's a very, very thick carpet.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_0960.jpg


I finished up the fabric on the underside of the soffit. I used 3/4" plywood on the sides of the soffit that I'll stain. To make things easier, I put up the plywood and let it hang down about an inch or two.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1065.jpg


Then, I stapled the fabric to the back of the plywood the entire length of the room.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1066.jpg


Once the stapling was done, I slid the plywood up into place and then stapled the other end of the fabric to the soffit. It worked out nicely.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1068.jpg

Here's one without the lights on.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1069.jpg

I worked more on the stage too. In this pic you'll see some plywood above the stage. I'm going to stain in and make a removable piece with black fabric in the middle. This will hide the center speaker and IR receiver.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1097.jpg


I got the stage soffit covered with black fabric too and put the lights back in. I did this fabric a similar way. I attached the fabric to the back of the pieces of plywood on above the screen and then pulled the fabric over the soffit and stapled it to the front of the soffit. I'll cover it with corner molding. I also had to paint part of the light flat black. The lights I used are Emerald brand.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1103.jpg

Finally, I cut out the side pieces of plywood for the proscenium. These will be stained and I'll cover the back with black fabric. I might put these on hinges, but don't know if it's a big deal. The HVAC return is on the left and the sub will be on the right. I probably will hinge them anyways.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1106.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1107.jpg

Hi Jerrod:

I just read your entire thread. Nice work (on the son)! The home theater is looking great as well! We recently finished our HT room and we are loving it. Just think, in your next house in about ten years your son can work beside you on the project just like my oldest did. I will be following your thread from here on out. Can't wait to see the finished product.

David

Hi Jerrod:

I just read your entire thread. Nice work (on the son)! The home theater is looking great as well! We recently finished our HT room and we are loving it. Just think, in your next house in about ten years your son can work beside you on the project just like my oldest did. I will be following your thread from here on out. Can't wait to see the finished product.

David

Thanks! I can't wait to see the finished product either.

More work on the wall fabric. Man I'm sick of doing it! Getting close to done though.... I ran out of staples last night and have 3 more panels to do and it's done.

Here's the right rear of the room
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1115.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1167.jpg

Here's the rear of the room. You can see the Ascend CBM-170 SE's sitting in their home. I"ll make a black panel to cover it.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1166.jpg


A closeup of the 170 speaker in the hole....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1170.jpg

oh yeah Fabric can be a bit of work, That's why the second time I'm going to buy FabricMate's system. It will cost me $15 for every 5 foot peice of track but man will it be easier and dam if I won't be able to change fabric should I decide to :)

Jerrod,
In that first(of the latest) pictures, you can see the staples shinning next to the columns. Are they really easily seen in the room, and if how do you plan on covering them?

Nelson

oh yeah Fabric can be a bit of work, That's why the second time I'm going to buy FabricMate's system. It will cost me $15 for every 5 foot peice of track but man will it be easier and dam if I won't be able to change fabric should I decide to :)

Honestly, I didn't look into Fabricmate enough. It probably would of saved me some grief. By the time I got down to the last couple of panel I was getting fairly good at putting the pieces up. I don't know if I'll ever build another HT..... ;)

Jerrod,
In that first(of the latest) pictures, you can see the staples shinning next to the columns. Are they really easily seen in the room, and if how do you plan on covering them?

Nelson

The staples are clearly visible, but I will cover them with corner molding. It's pretty standard stuff you can get at Lowe's or HD. I'm also going to use it on the corners to cover the bead board as well.

I finally, finally finished up the fabric on the walls! :D

What a relief that is.... There's a small piece left to do beside the door, but for the most part, I'm done. The pictures aren't the best. I guess there's some stuff floating in the air from the insualtion/fabric.

Here's the front left side near the stage.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1173.jpg

Here's the left side/rear.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1174.jpg

Here's the rear of the room.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1178.jpg

Here's the right side.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1177.jpg

A few more pictures of the stage area. I forgot to snap a picture of the frame before covering it with fabric, but I just made a frame that's open in the middle and covered it with fabric.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1179.jpg

I started staining the remaining items. Here's one of the pieces that will go on the proscenium.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1182.jpg

Here's the space next to the center speaker.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1183.jpg

Here's the soffits. The seam in the back will be covered with a piece of flat molding. It doesn't look like it, but it's centered above the column. I'll put a matching piece on the right side so it looks symmetric.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1184.jpg

Final thing I did yesterday was to put in the HT door frame. I don't have it screwed in yet, but you get the picture. The frame is the full width of the wall (10 1/2") and I will leave the bottom piece in. This will help seal the room from the rest of the basement. The door will be on the outside so from inside the HT there will be a bit of a cavity. It won't be flush.

On the left of this picture is the small piece of bead board and fabric I have to finish.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1180.jpg

This is the outside of the room.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1181.jpg

The room is really coming together. I like all the wood you have around the room.

Question on the Mahogany door... Did you buy that from a big box store or from a local door retailer? I went to HD yesterday and they wanted about $1,150 for a solid pre-hung exterior door (with threshold) in Mahogany, Maple or Oak.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did that door set you back? I just want to be sure I'm even in the ballpark of if I need to do some more shopping around. I really would like to keep the cost to about $500 if possible. If I can't, I may just make my own door from a paint-grade solid-core and apply the veneer and raised panels myself.

He posted it some where here... I looked at post 408, but I thought he specified that one door.

Bud

Steve, look at post 411.

Bud

I admit, I'm just browsing through pictures and didn't read this entire thread, so i apologize if this was brought up before.

You do realize that recessing those speakers into the columns will cover the rear ports of the speakers and stiffle low frequency performance? In a ported speaker, the port is responsible for acoustical output near its tuned frequency, and the driver contributes very little to the sound output. Its almost like only being able to push your gas pedal halfway to the floor.

Something to think about!

Dr V

The room is really coming together. I like all the wood you have around the room.

Question on the Mahogany door... Did you buy that from a big box store or from a local door retailer? I went to HD yesterday and they wanted about $1,150 for a solid pre-hung exterior door (with threshold) in Mahogany, Maple or Oak.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did that door set you back? I just want to be sure I'm even in the ballpark of if I need to do some more shopping around. I really would like to keep the cost to about $500 if possible. If I can't, I may just make my own door from a paint-grade solid-core and apply the veneer and raised panels myself.

Thanks man!

We got the doors from a local store called The Door Store of America (http://www.doorstoreusa.com). My wife and I looked around at Lowe's and just didn't see anything we liked. The nice thing about the local store we looked at was that they had a large, large warehouse so we could see every door on the floor and not just in a catalog.

The door into the theater cost me $450, but it's a bit misleading. It's a 36" door that was left over from another project the guy had. It was originally part of a french door setup. It was in a "clearance" rack and the owner told me he'd sell it for $100. It cost me another $350 for the custom frame, hinges and all. This was unfinished too so I have to stain it.

The picture below was the door we originally wanted, but it was around $1,100 (just the door and not the sidelites).

http://www.doorstoreusa.com/images/products/98__big.jpg

I hear about a lot of people getting the Safe N Sound Doors. I think they're made by Masonite and if I recall correctly they are in the $200-300 range. I don't remember what finished were available though....

Steve, look at post 411.

Bud

Thanks for keeping track of things.... :)

I admit, I'm just browsing through pictures and didn't read this entire thread, so i apologize if this was brought up before.

You do realize that recessing those speakers into the columns will cover the rear ports of the speakers and stiffle low frequency performance? In a ported speaker, the port is responsible for acoustical output near its tuned frequency, and the driver contributes very little to the sound output. Its almost like only being able to push your gas pedal halfway to the floor.

Something to think about!

Dr V

I thought about this and have taken care it if... somewhat..... There's about 2-3" of space between the rear of the speaker and the wall. Also, the entire column is "open" from the top of the bead board to the ceiling. They are packed with insulation to. With the gap I have and the fact that the columns aren't enclosed I don't think I'll have any issues. Here's a pic....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_0881.jpg


Also, these are only the surrounds and they'll be crossed over around 80 Hz or higher.... I hooked up the side speakers and played some stereo music and they sounded very good to me.

That sure is looking good so far.

How do those 170's sound? Im thinking about those for my theater.

Ronnie

Thanks man!

We got the doors from a local store called The Door Store of America (http://www.doorstoreusa.com). My wife and I looked around at Lowe's and just didn't see anything we liked. The nice thing about the local store we looked at was that they had a large, large warehouse so we could see every door on the floor and not just in a catalog.

The door into the theater cost me $450, but it's a bit misleading. It's a 36" door that was left over from another project the guy had. It was originally part of a french door setup. It was in a "clearance" rack and the owner told me he'd sell it for $100. It cost me another $350 for the custom frame, hinges and all. This was unfinished too so I have to stain it.

The picture below was the door we originally wanted, but it was around $1,100 (just the door and not the sidelites).

http://www.doorstoreusa.com/images/products/98__big.jpg

I hear about a lot of people getting the Safe N Sound Doors. I think they're made by Masonite and if I recall correctly they are in the $200-300 range. I don't remember what finished were available though....
Thanks Jerrod. I may just have to do some shopping and see what kind of deal I can find.

That sure is looking good so far.

How do those 170's sound? Im thinking about those for my theater.

Ronnie

They sound great! Granted, I'm listening to either Sirius or my IPod thru and old crappy Sharp stereo.... but I'm amazed at how loud they played and how much low end they have.

For the money, I don't think you can do any better. I'm hoping to have my 7 speaker setup all hooked up in a few days. I can't wait!

jerrodshook,

Alright, Just wanted to make sure you were aware of the issue...

Keep up the good work!

Dr V

They sound great! Granted, I'm listening to either Sirius or my IPod thru and old crappy Sharp stereo.... but I'm amazed at how loud they played and how much low end they have.

For the money, I don't think you can do any better. I'm hoping to have my 7 speaker setup all hooked up in a few days. I can't wait!


Once you get all 7 going, throw a dvd player in there and listen to a movie soundtrak while you work. :D Im curious.

Ronnie

Once you get all 7 going, throw a dvd player in there and listen to a movie soundtrak while you work. :D Im curious.

Ronnie

I might have to do that! :D

Something else I haven't mentioned yet is that I ordered an X-SUb from AV123 last week. I am still on the pre-order list for a new Hsu VTF3-HO, but they're still delayed. Not wanting to be without a sub of any kind, I talked my wife into letting me get a "cheap" sub. Once the Hsu is ready, I'll move the X-Sub to my family room. The X-Sub sounds like an impressive little sub and goes down to 28 Hz (-3db). Pretty good for a $199 sub! It should be here on Thursday.

Back after some days away from AVS. Well, I must admit that I finally cheated and hooked up the projector and DVD player. WOW!

I didn't get any good screen shots so I won't any of the bad ones. Had our neighbors over Friday night and watched The Incredibles with all the kids. Lawn chairs work nicely.... I was amazed at the picture. If there's better performance than the Panny AE900 for this price I would be shocked! Here's my temporary projector mount

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1224.jpg


Anyways, onto some more progress pics.... I put the black fabric on the front sides of the stage and got them put up.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1186.jpg

I'm going to use 3/4" cove molding around the inner part of the openings, and then use some kind of narrow flat molding on the font to hide the seam and add some decorating. Maybe some rope molding or something like that.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1194.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1195.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1209.jpg


Also got the X-Sub from AV123 and hooked it up. For a little 8" sub, I am pleasantly surprised at how it sounds so far. I've yet to calibrate anything in the room yet, and without carpet and chairs it will certainly affect the sound.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1223.jpg

I hung the door into the HT yesterday. Man was that thing heavy! I had to put in some framing around it to close up the hole a bit. I didn't take any progress pics of that. HEre's the finished product...

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1225.jpg

This is from inside the room.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1226.jpg

I wanted the door to be able to swing all the way open and still be able to access the equipment rack. I have some of the equipment installed. On the bottom is a Harmon/Kardon AVR7200. Then the PureAV PF60 Power Conditioner and on the top is the Oppo 971 DVD player. It's tiny!

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1233.jpg

Here's a couple pics from the back. You'll see where I mounted the IR block....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1219.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1220.jpg

Got a bit more work done tonight.... staining molding for the HT. Here's some pics....

This is 1x4 poplar. I'm going to use it along the ceiling in place of crown molding. With all 7 of the columns, I just decided to get a bit lazy and didn't feel like messing with all the miter cuts on the crown... The 1x4's will be much easier.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1253.jpg

Here's more of the poplar and then some out corner pieces and some inner cove pieces.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1255.jpg

This is the chair rail.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1257.jpg

This is some of the rope molding I'll use in areas.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1258.jpg

All of this is just with 1 coat. I'll try and get the second coat done tomorrow. After that, I'll poly all of it and put it up. I have to get the bead board poly'ed too.

Tonight, I finally mounted my projector and temporarily installed the U80 lens. I have the Chief RPA-U projector mount and am not sure if anyone has done this, but I'm using 1 of the 4 arms on the mount to hold the lens. Take a look.....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1282.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1283.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1308.jpg

Even though the Panny 900 I have has 4 holes to attach the mount too, I can't see it being a big deal to only use 3 of them. This projector isn't that heavy to begin with. Plus, I am trying to minimize the weight of the whole setup because I have an RSIC ceiling and I want to limit the weight on it.

Here's a couple screen shots. I have not calibrated the projector yet, and for some reason I think it was only displaying 480p (I have the Oppo 971 DVD player hooked up with an HDMI cable. When I hit menu on the projector, it says the source was 480p so I have somethin setup wrong somewhere.... I think). These are with the lens in place and the projector in Zoom mode. The actual picture isn't near as "grainy" as these pictures are. I just snapped basic pics without the flash on my digital camera.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1305.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1306.jpg

More screen shots.....

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1311.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/Theater/IMG_1313.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1314.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1315.jpg

To hang the projector, I took a 2x2 piece of 3/4" plywood and mounted it to the ceiling. I used a ton of liquid nails and a row of screws in the hat channel behind the drywall.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1285.jpg

You'll notice from the pic that there's about a 4-5" strip on each side of the wood that doesn't have screws. The floor joist is above this area and I didn't want to risk running any screws in the joist that would defeat the purpose of the RSIC clips and hat channel.

Here's the projector mounted and the lens in place (very temporary....)
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1308.jpg

I am probably going to get a shorter pipe, or possibly just frame out some wood and get rid of the pipe all together. The lens actually provides some lens shift, allowing me to move the projector closer to the ceiling.

I finished up staining the rest of the bead board in the basement. I also put the first coat of polyurethane on today after work. Here's some pics....

These 2 are outside of the theater.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1275.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1276.jpg

This is in the main room.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1277.jpg

Here's a closeup of the stain.
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1299.jpg

Jerrod,
Everything's looking beautiful. You must have a very supportive wife as I think mine might have killed me if I was spending time building after our first little one.
How are Mom and the little one doing? Are you getting any sleep at all?

Where did you get that awesome doorstop? Was it expensive?

Jerrod,
The room is looking fantastic, I've read the thread from start to finish and it am now a subscriber. My room is in the mid planning stages, so I'm learning as I go, thanks.

Can I ask a question that will most certainly reveal what a true novice I am at this game, and is off the the track of this thread just a bit?

Can you tell me what is the purpose of the lens you mounted to your PJ? I've seen it mentioned in other threads as well.

Thanks.

Jerrod - everything is looking awesome.

I can't get my head around how you guys are making so much progress so fast. You got some elfs helping? :D Put me to shame :o

Had to take a cloder look at your fabric - for moment I thought I had bought same as you.

Cheers,
Mark

Lookin good Jerrod.

Can you tell me where you got that 'paneling'? I'm doing a studio in the basement of a building that was done for the 1904 World's Fair and they're wanting to keep it kind of period correct looking. I think that stuff with that stain color would fit in nicely.

Bryan

Jerrod,
Everything's looking beautiful. You must have a very supportive wife as I think mine might have killed me if I was spending time building after our first little one.
How are Mom and the little one doing? Are you getting any sleep at all?

Where did you get that awesome doorstop? Was it expensive?

Thanks! I am so happy with how it's turning out, and very, very happy it's almost done! My wife is great, and while she's not thrilled with the amount of time I spend downstairs, she wants it done too so we can enjoy!

The doorstop (threshold) is part of the door frame. I talked a little bit about this in an earlier post, but I had the door company build me a custom jamb (10 9/16" thick) so it would go from wall to wall. The wall is a 2x8 with 3 sheets of drywall (1 in the hall and 2 in the HT), then a 2x4 on the wall for my frame/fabric/bead board. Instead of me making a custom frame, I just had the pros do it.

It's an exterior door and I wanted a better seal to minimize sound escaping, hence the bottom piece of wood. The bottom of the door has weatherstripping on it. I'll try and take some better pictures of it for you.

Jerrod,
The room is looking fantastic, I've read the thread from start to finish and it am now a subscriber. My room is in the mid planning stages, so I'm learning as I go, thanks.

Can I ask a question that will most certainly reveal what a true novice I am at this game, and is off the the track of this thread just a bit?

Can you tell me what is the purpose of the lens you mounted to your PJ? I've seen it mentioned in other threads as well.

Thanks.

No problem, glad you like the room!

The lens is officially called an anamorphic lens. I bought it from Panamorph and you can check out their site here. (http://www.panamorph.com)

You can also learn the basics reading the 2.35 Constant Image Height FAQ. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=554901)

The basic premise is that when watching real widesreen movies (2:35 to 1 aspect ratio) on an HDTV or projector, you get black bars on the top and bottom of the image. By using the projector to "strecth the image, the lens reformats the inage so it fits the 2.35 screen. There's much more to it, but that's the quick and dirty explanation.

Jerrod - everything is looking awesome.

I can't get my head around how you guys are making so much progress so fast. You got some elfs helping? :D Put me to shame :o

Had to take a cloder look at your fabric - for moment I thought I had bought same as you.

Cheers,
Mark

No elves.... I just spend a lot of time working on it. I'm dying to get done because the basement, new baby, work and everything else are just eating up every spare minute I have. I am ready for some R&R!

I really, really love the fabric. I was a PITA to put in because of the pattern. I had to pull/stretch it so the "lines" in the fabric matched up with all the corners and seams. It's not perfect in some places, but I did the best I could.

If I ever do this again, I will seriously look at the Fabricmate stuff.

Lookin good Jerrod.

Can you tell me where you got that 'paneling'? I'm doing a studio in the basement of a building that was done for the 1904 World's Fair and they're wanting to keep it kind of period correct looking. I think that stuff with that stain color would fit in nicely.

Bryan

Thanks Brian. I got it at Lowe's. It's in the aisle with all of their paneling, bead board, etc... It's 5.0mm birch bead board. It was around $36 a sheet. For the stain, I used minwax pre-stain conditioner and oil-based English Chestnut stain. I didn't wipe of the stain so it would have the rich, dark look.

The doorstop (threshold) is part of the door frame. I talked a little bit about this in an earlier post, but I had the door company build me a custom jamb (10 9/16" thick) so it would go from wall to wall. The wall is a 2x8 with 3 sheets of drywall (1 in the hall and 2 in the HT), then a 2x4 on the wall for my frame/fabric/bead board. Instead of me making a custom frame, I just had the pros do it.

Hehe, by door stop, I thought he was referring to the plastic lawn chair you had in the picture leaning against the door to keep it closed.

Hehe, by door stop, I thought he was referring to the plastic lawn chair you had in the picture leaning against the door to keep it closed.

Thanks for making that obvious. Don't know why I didn't figure that out..... :o It was early and I didn't have enough coffee in my system yet.

[QUOTE=jerrodshook]No problem, glad you like the room!

The lens is officially called an anamorphic lens.


Thanks for the explanation...learning stuff everyday. I had our HT all laid out and planned then I made the mistake of looking at threads such as yours. You guys do some amazing stuff with your rooms. The good thing is that it's forcing me to rethink things and the end product should be better quality.

Thanks for all of the construction tips.

Thanks for the explanation...learning stuff everyday. I had our HT all laid out and planned then I made the mistake of looking at threads such as yours. You guys do some amazing stuff with your rooms. The good thing is that it's forcing me to rethink things and the end product should be better quality.

Thanks for all of the construction tips.

Glad it all helps!

Check this out!

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1326.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1327.jpg

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1328.jpg

These are Berkline 090's with a microfiber fabric, not leather. For some reason, the pics make them look a bit dull.... This one is sitting in my garage so it's natural lighting. Should look better once they're in the room. I will have a row of 3 chairs in the fron, angled.... and the back row has a loveseat and 2 angled seats on the sides.

I bought these from Roman at Ultimate Entertainment during the powerbuy and they arrived a week ahead of schedule. It was great working with Roman and he always answered his phone and was very helpful!

I wasn't impressed with the packing though... this isn't Roman's fault since they shipped directly from Berkline. This picture is exactly how they were packed. The chair was free to slide around inside the box. No bubble wrap, styrofoam or anything like that.

http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1322.jpg

Here's how another chair was wrapped......
http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g379/shookjer/IMG_1329.jpg


My carpet is being installed next Tuesday, so shortly after that I'll get the chairs moved in for some better pictures.

Yea Baby! I can't wait to see them all connected and installed in the room. There is something about the seating that really completes the room :)

Nice seats Jerrod! Nice progress on the room as well (I've been a silent observer for a while). I got some 088's from Roman as well, but mine were leather. But the ones I received in the boxes were wrapped with a plastic/foam type of wrap. The one not in the box is the loveseat. Wonder what makes them decide to put plastic around them or not?

Jerrod,

do you remember what material/code your microfibre was? I am going to guess it is the 3075 style

Yep, I meant the plastic lawn chair doorstop!