I'm at the end of my rope with this comcast cablecard. I got my toshiba firmware upgrade in the mail today and am now at 1.2.8. I put the cablecard back in the tv expecting to finally get my hd channels when much to my dismay the tv is still stuck on the aquiring information screen. For those of you who have gotten this to work, what did you do? If I unplug the cablecard, I can watch the analog channels. As soon as I stick the card in I can't switch from the channel that is currently displayed. When I try to switch channels, a message box pops up saying "aquiring channel information".

I'm at the end of my rope with this comcast cablecard. I got my toshiba firmware upgrade in the mail today and am now at 1.2.8. I put the cablecard back in the tv expecting to finally get my hd channels when much to my dismay the tv is still stuck on the aquiring information screen. For those of you who have gotten this to work, what did you do? If I unplug the cablecard, I can watch the analog channels. As soon as I stick the card in I can't switch from the channel that is currently displayed. When I try to switch channels, a message box pops up saying "aquiring channel information".Have the Comcast techs verified your signal is adequate? I have last years model of Toshiba set and it took two firmware upgrades and an amplifier on my incoming signal to get the cable card working. Make sure they have the card provisioned properly and you have a good signal without too much loss or gain. When the card is working properly it should only take about 10-15 minutes to acquire the channels. You might also ask Comcast to bring out and try a different cable card.

I'm at the end of my rope with this comcast cablecard. I got my toshiba firmware upgrade in the mail today and am now at 1.2.8. I put the cablecard back in the tv expecting to finally get my hd channels when much to my dismay the tv is still stuck on the aquiring information screen. For those of you who have gotten this to work, what did you do? If I unplug the cablecard, I can watch the analog channels. As soon as I stick the card in I can't switch from the channel that is currently displayed. When I try to switch channels, a message box pops up saying "aquiring channel information".

I believe the firmware upgrade requires you to remove your CC before, so don't know if that is part of your problem. If not, try this as see if it helps:

- Turn TV OFF.
- Pull the power plug out of the outlet.
- Eject the Cable Card
- Hit the POWER BUTTON on the TV 2+ times. According to Comcast, this is what the TV manufacturers (Toshiba) told them to do to reset any internal memory.
- Put Cable Card back in.
- Plug TV plug in and wait for the reboot to complete (yellow LED stops flashing).
- Turn TV ON.

You should see the "Acquiring Channels" message (may see snow first) but this should only take about a minute.

If you cannot get the CC to acquire, call Comcast and they can "hit" the card remotely by taking it out of their system and re-entering it.

Only other thought is to have Comcast come out and replace it. They will not leave until it is working.

why does that point to Toshiba. Do they accept 1080P inputs?


Because the price point for Toshiba is better than an HP and the main reason to get an HP right now is the claim of accepting a 108op input. For the money Toshiba is the best 1080p set around.

I got my toshiba firmware upgrade in the mail today and am now at 1.2.8.

How did you get the firmware upgrade from Toshiba? I have a 56MX195 and contacted Toshiba support about obtaining the firmware upgrade but they skirted the question and told me to reset the TV and pointed me to the authorized service center listing on their website if I was having problems with my TV (which I'm not any longer).

Do you know what 1.2.8 fixes?

Finally, how do you complete a firmware update on Toshiba's, is it via the firewire port and what medium do they send it to you on?

Thanks.

Did anyone notice you can get free On-Demand with the Toshiba w/ Cablecard?

If I tune to channels 1001 through 1040, I can catch any on-demand movie that's currently being broadcast in my area - don't know how large that area is but most of the channels are usually blank at any given time.

My suspicion is that when someone orders a movie, the STB is then instructed to tune to a channel that happens to be in the higher band used by channels 1001-1040. Since our TV's can tune to that band manually, we can receive the same digital stream that's being transmitted on that channel. The funny thing is when the owner uses their remote to rewind or pause the movie, you see the same thing.

It's not perfect, but I've been able to catch several recent movies so far.

Did anyone notice you can get free On-Demand with the Toshiba w/ Cablecard? I noticed that when I had the direct feed to ANT1 before I got the cable card but never tried checking the channels once I got my cable card. I will have to check it out some day.

How do you manually tune to 1001? I can do 100 or 100-1 but none are VOD for Adelphia in my area.

/Joe

How did you get the firmware upgrade from Toshiba? I have a 56MX195 and contacted Toshiba support about obtaining the firmware upgrade but they skirted the question and told me to reset the TV and pointed me to the authorized service center listing on their website if I was having problems with my TV (which I'm not any longer).

Do you know what 1.2.8 fixes?

Finally, how do you complete a firmware update on Toshiba's, is it via the firewire port and what medium do they send it to you on?

Thanks.

Call Toshiba and they will send you a 128mb SD card. You plug it into the side card reader and it upgrades.

How do you manually tune to 1001? I can do 100 or 100-1 but none are VOD for Adelphia in my area.

/Joe

I just enter 1001 (each digit individually), then use the Up Channel button from there (I have not turned these channels off in the TV's channel map).

Call Toshiba and they will send you a 128mb SD card. You plug it into the side card reader and it upgrades.

Did you have to report a problem or did you just ask for a firmware update and they sent it? Did they give any indications as to what problems the firmware update would fix?

Thanks.

How did you get the firmware upgrade from Toshiba? I have a 56MX195 and contacted Toshiba support about obtaining the firmware upgrade but they skirted the question and told me to reset the TV and pointed me to the authorized service center listing on their website if I was having problems with my TV (which I'm not any longer).

Do you know what 1.2.8 fixes?

Finally, how do you complete a firmware update on Toshiba's, is it via the firewire port and what medium do they send it to you on?

Thanks.

Just tell them that you want the latest firmware upgrade and that you are about to install a terrestrial antenna and need the fix for the tv guide. That worked for me (of course, it is also true :-)

Ken

With all the interest in 1080p via the HDMI interface, I was wondering if there's a standard protocol for sending 1080p via iLink/Firewire/1394? I imagine the bandwidth is sufficient...

I was looking at the AVHD demo that Mitsubishi uses in the store, and it looks like there's a lot of blurring of moving images that is probably an interlace effect, but I was wondering if the Symbio demo might be 1080p.

Also, is there any reason to think that these sets can do 3:2 pulldown of film from HDMI 1080i content? That is, is the necessary source field/frame info in each frame and software in the set?

With all the interest in 1080p via the HDMI interface, I was wondering if there's a standard protocol for sending 1080p via iLink/Firewire/1394? I imagine the bandwidth is sufficient...

I was looking at the AVHD demo that Mitsubishi uses in the store, and it looks like there's a lot of blurring of moving images that is probably an interlace effect, but I was wondering if the Symbio demo might be 1080p.

Also, is there any reason to think that these sets can do 3:2 pulldown of film from HDMI 1080i content? That is, is the necessary source field/frame info in each frame and software in the set?


I just hooked up a Symbio and also wonder if the demo is in 1080p - looks really good and clean.

Did you have to report a problem or did you just ask for a firmware update and they sent it? Did they give any indications as to what problems the firmware update would fix?

Thanks.

I had been resisting calling for the s/w but based on the latest occasional issues I'm still having with my cable card I called Toshiba today and have the new s/w on the way.

The issues I have are not exactly the same as others have reported but generally related to the CC and TVGOS. I had the CC swapped out last weekend to see if it addressed a problem where all of a sudden channels started getting garbled (i.e. looks like decoding errors). It would start on one channel and then propagate to any other channel I tuned to. Last night the same problem occurred, and rather than doing a complete power reboot on the TV like I used to, I figured I would just turn the TV off, eject the CC and reinsert it. Well it fixed the decoding errors but then TVGOS lost it's channel map and had to wait overnight to resync. This morning all the listing data is still there, but my channel edits are gone.

When I called Toshiba, I mentioned both the CC issues and TVGOS issues, and whether the new S/W would address this - the rep quickly recommended the 1.2.8 upgrade even before I could request it. Just tell them you're having CC and TVGOS issues and they should set you up to receive the new S/W right away.

Good luck with the new firmware. My upgrade fixed everything but then things stopped working again so I suspect the CC. So I have Adelphia coming out next Friday with new CC's.

Funny thing is everytime I call them the next day my TV works fine. And then 1 day before the original scheduled date things stop working.

It's a conspiracy thing I tell ya :)

I just hooked up a Symbio and also wonder if the demo is in 1080p - looks really good and clean.

Did you check to see what the On Screen menu says the source is in? Does it, in fact, say "1080p"? Also, how did you get the content on your Symbio? Did it come preloaded with a demo? Thanks.

Did you check to see what the On Screen menu says the source is in? Does it, in fact, say "1080p"? Also, how did you get the content on your Symbio? Did it come preloaded with a demo? Thanks.

I don't think it displays the source when using Symbio. It came pre-loaded with a couple of demo's with one being a HD demo. Looks better than anything I have had on the set to date. Colors are amazing and the text is 100% perfect.

My guess is that it's got to be 1080P. It blows away the OTA HD programs and DVD's which I thought looked amazing. Now if we can only figure out a hack to get 1080P onto the Symbio. Since it's firewire, and my PC has firewire ports, I hope I can get the PC to recognize the Symbio and then download some 1080p content onto it. If they were able to get the 2 demo's on there then there must be a way :)

I don't think it displays the source when using Symbio. It came pre-loaded with a couple of demo's with one being a HD demo. Looks better than anything I have had on the set to date. Colors are amazing and the text is 100% perfect.

My guess is that it's got to be 1080P. It blows away the OTA HD programs and DVD's which I thought looked amazing. Now if we can only figure out a hack to get 1080P onto the Symbio. Since it's firewire, and my PC has firewire ports, I hope I can get the PC to recognize the Symbio and then download some 1080p content onto it. If they were able to get the 2 demo's on there then there must be a way :)

I am trying to do the same, but I have an RCA DVR2160. I have a question for you, can you record to your Symbio via HMDI or component? The reason I ask is because I can only get my DVR2160 to record from "ANT 1" or "Video 1" only. When I press record on my remote when watching tv through my cable box (connected through HDMI) nothing happens.

With regard to the source, you should be able to check what format the tv is playing. I verified this with my SA8300HD connected via IEEE 1394. It does tell me that it is in "1080i" or "720p". Hit the "recall" button on the remote once you start the demo playing. See what it says on the lower left of the screen....maybe "1080p"?!?!

Also, check out this site. Do you think that the TV can play WMV files through a IEEE 1394 DVR?
http://www.microsoft.com/windows/windowsmedia/content_provider/film/ContentShowcase.aspx

Darn! Just tried hit the recall button on the HD demo loop and it's 1080i :(

I try to record something connected via hdmi or component but I think the Symbio will only do Ant 1 or Video 1. Hope it will do Ant 2 so I can record decent OTA football games :)

I use a CableCard and it goes through Ant1 so at least I can record HD Cable.

I have the 62MX195 and a DirecTV HD DVR. I wonder if anyone here has the same DVR and has compared the video on the HDMI vs. component outputs? I think I may compare them this weekend when I have time. Just wondering if others have compared, even with a HD device other than the Hi Def DVR.

Darn! Just tried hit the recall button on the HD demo loop and it's 1080i :(

I try to record something connected via hdmi or component but I think the Symbio will only do Ant 1 or Video 1. Hope it will do Ant 2 so I can record decent OTA football games :)

I use a CableCard and it goes through Ant1 so at least I can record HD Cable.

I am not so sure that what you see on the screen is a pure test of the input. For example---I have an Oppo DVD player that can output 540p. With that input, my 62hm195 says the input is 1080i.

I am not so sure that what you see on the screen is a pure test of the input. For example---I have an Oppo DVD player that can output 540p. With that input, my 62hm195 says the input is 1080i.

Interesting....I do know that 1080p is a choice in the On Screen resolution list because when I hook my 62HM195 to an OTA antenna and the signal is poor and jittery. As the TV is stabilizing, I have seen 1080p listed for a few seconds until the TV can figure out what the resolution is.

Stu1080P,

Today I recorded a show (manual record) using my Symbio and tried to change inputs and naturally it would not let me. I also tried to change channels and it would not let me change channels using the #'s on the remote but when I used the "channel up" button it would let me change stations.

But it would only allow me to go to a certain # of stations with none of them being HD channels. I could go to CNN using the "Channel down" button but if I manually tried to enter the channel it would not let me.

After I channel surfed on the limited channels I checked my recording and sure enough it continued to record the HD program from start to finish.

So even though you "can't" record one show and watch another it appears as though you can. Now that I know you can do it on a limited basis I am sure they will soon be a hack where someone figures out a way to record one show while watching the other.

I believe your RCA and my SYMBIO are somewhat alike.

/Joe

I went thru this thread quickly. I was looking for positive reviews. I am thinking about buying this TV. Onecall has good prices which even includes shipping. Anybody had bad experience with onecall? Some members mentioned lot of noise. Is it true?

My cablecard finally works (sort of). I get all channels up to 213 but then it stops. That covers about half of the high def channels. At least it is a step in the right direction. I think there is a signal problem right now because my hd box is having a little trouble and my internet is going in and out today.

The only thing left to fix is the fan noise. A toshiba service rep came out the other day and took a look at the set. He immediately determined that it wasn't the bulb or color wheel fan. After taking out the light engine and hooking up some 12V batteries to the vatous fans on the light engine, we found that the tiny little fan that cools the chip was the culprit. This thing is smaller than most computer ps fans but whales like a banshee. He ordered a new one which should solve the problem. I have to say that I have been really impressed with toshiba's customer service. They were really helpful with the cablecard situation and the fan problem.

I would appreciate it very much if you would let us know if the new fan is any quieter.

Thanks!

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone know the optimal viewing distance for 62hm195? i cant decide if i should buy the 62 inch or 56. I have about maximum 8-9 feet of space from the tv.

In general, the optimum viewing distance is twice the diagonal. So a 62 inch would be 124 inches or 10' 4".


Ken

Hey, hopefully someone knowledgable can help me with this question.. I have a 56mx195 1080p set. I am going to be getting the xbox 360 soon and I'm wondering about lag. From what I've read, the lag has to do with the upconversion of info from the 480i source of original xbox games.. on 360, which should I set it to, 720 or 1080i. Is there no noticeable lag from the upconverting of a 1080i signal, or does it even upconvert? Ideally this would lessen the lag that I've seen on games like Halo2 for xbox.. Thanks!

Hey, hopefully someone knowledgable can help me with this question.. I have a 56mx195 1080p set. I am going to be getting the xbox 360 soon and I'm wondering about lag. From what I've read, the lag has to do with the upconversion of info from the 480i source of original xbox games.. on 360, which should I set it to, 720 or 1080i. Is there no noticeable lag from the upconverting of a 1080i signal, or does it even upconvert? Ideally this would lessen the lag that I've seen on games like Halo2 for xbox.. Thanks!


Honestly, I haven't noticed any lag when playing my regular Xbox so I really doubt your gonna run into it on the 360. That was one of the reasons I the 56mx195. You shouldn't have anything to worry about. :)

I actually do notice a small amount of lag on xbox (original) right now... but like i said, its from the upconversion I believe. My question is more about which would be better, 720 or 1080i on the 360 for reducing the lag.. ie. would the 1080i not have to upconvert and therefore not have lag?

I actually do notice a small amount of lag on xbox (original) right now... but like i said, its from the upconversion I believe. My question is more about which would be better, 720 or 1080i on the 360 for reducing the lag.. ie. would the 1080i not have to upconvert and therefore not have lag?Since you have a 1080p set it will have to convert either the 720p or 1080i resolution.

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone know the optimal viewing distance for 62hm195? i cant decide if i should buy the 62 inch or 56. I have about maximum 8-9 feet of space from the tv.

56"

Anyone see the Toshiba 1080p (62hm195) review in the Jan/Feb issue of The Perfect Vision that just came out? They think pretty highly of it.

Since you have a 1080p set it will have to convert either the 720p or 1080i resolution.

Actually, it has to scale the 720p signal or deinterlace the 1080i signal, which are two different processes and most likely handled by different components. If there is potential lag, it would be important to know if it happens when scaling or deinterlacing to answer the original question.

On a different note, has anyone heard about a possible firmware upgrade to allow the HDMI inputs to accept 1080p sources?

On a different note, has anyone heard about a possible firmware upgrade to allow the HDMI inputs to accept 1080p sources?My guess is they didn't use the newer HDMI transmitters that support 1080p inputs. if that is the case firmware will not address the problem and it would require changing of the electronics in the set.

Actually, it has to scale the 720p signal or deinterlace the 1080i signal, which are two different processes and most likely handled by different components. If there is potential lag, it would be important to know if it happens when scaling or deinterlacing to answer the original question.Sorry, I use the word convert loosely as I assume everyone knows about scaling/deinterlacing. The bottom line is something has to happen to the incoming signal no matter what the resolution.

No problem Kdog, it just looked like bsevenseven was fairly new and may not be aware of the difference.

What gets better results setting the upconverting DVD to 1080i or should I turn off the upconverting and let the tv do it. I have the Panasonic s77 dvd player. I have seen the macro blocking.

I was never able to see the BIG difference in quality on different DVDs until now.

Also my regular cable channels look terrible on the 62 hm195.

I have cable and I want to switch to Direct TV is there a big difference in picture quality between cable and Direct TV?

Also does the cable card look that much better than the set top box?
I connect it thru HDMI cable.

I've found that the source SD greatly influences the picture quality. For the most part Dish Network looks fine on the TV, not great, but definitely watchable. My locals on DN are not great though. This is a matter of the quality of feed DN is getting my locals. Since all my locals now have digital broadcast, I normally switch over to OTA for the locals and they look fairly good, even for non-hd programming. I've heard that Direct TV channels don't look very good on these tv's, but I've not seen it for myself.

Ken

Anyone see the Toshiba 1080p (62hm195) review in the Jan/Feb issue of The Perfect Vision that just came out? They think pretty highly of it.

what did they say? please recap.

I have a 62HM195 on order which should be arriving by Thurs Dec 29th. After reading the troubles many have been having with Toshiba bulbs I am quite nervous and wondering if I made the right choice??? A lot of the posts here are people with problems and questions on how to resolve them, I understand that, but can I hear from some people with the HM195 series Toshibas that are happy :) with their sets and have been relatively trouble free?? Please? Are you out there? I am coming from a Sony CRT HD set that I have had for almost 5 years and its been trouble free except for a power supply that needed to be replaced 2 years ago. I talked the wife into letting me get a new set but if the bulb blows out like it has so quickly for some, Im in for HELL...

Please advise...

I have a 62HM195 on order which should be arriving by Thurs Dec 29th. After reading the troubles many have been having with Toshiba bulbs I am quite nervous and wondering if I made the right choice??? A lot of the posts here are people with problems and questions on how to resolve them, I understand that, but can I hear from some people with the HM195 series Toshibas that are happy :) with their sets and have been relatively trouble free?? Please? Are you out there? I am coming from a Sony CRT HD set that I have had for almost 5 years and its been trouble free except for a power supply that needed to be replaced 2 years ago. I talked the wife into letting me get a new set but if the bulb blows out like it has so quickly for some, Im in for HELL...

Please advise...

I have basically the same set (62MX195) and LOVE it - bought it in October. The HD PQ is awesome, and SD looks decent to pretty good depending on the source. Overall, I am very happy with this TV, not withstanding the possibility that I may have to change a bulb earlier than expected, but I have a 5 year warranty that includes bulbs so that eases that concern quite a bit.

The only minor issues I've had is with the Cable Card and TVGOS. The CC has been quite stable, but occasionally needs to be reset due to decoding errors. I have been able to get my TVGOS to work quite flawlessly after about 2 weeks of getting it set up (see other thread on TVGOS help).

Based on the minor issues above, I called Toshiba and they're sending me a S/W upgrade (my TV has 1.2.4, the new one is 1.2.8) that easily loads up through the memory card reader. The new S/W is supposed to address CC and TVGOS quirks, and most of those that already got the new S/W indicate that it seems to work.

Overall, the TV is a great value and beautiful picture quality. You shouldn't worry too much about the bulb life.

Finally got my TVGOS & CC working by going into the TVGOS Diag screen and looking at which channels my TV uses for downloading the TVGOS info. There are two with one being on the Cable input and the other on the OTA input.

I had been deleting these stations on the TV and TVGOS in the past and I believe this is what lead to my TVGOS woes. Now everything seems to be working for the most part anyway. I do have a couple of problems with the CC not decoding so if they persist then maybe I'll have Adelphia come out with a replacement to give that a try.

I wish Toshiba and the Cable Providers were on the same page with respect to making sure your system is set up properly before they make you swap things out and so on.

what did they say? please recap.

RudyMeister,

Basically, the reviewer was blown away by how good the Tosh's PQ was. He said it was almost as good as the Sony, but just a notch below. However, he emphasized it was a tough choice given Tosh's significantly lower price. The magazine, in a separate section, listed the Tosh in its best products category and also gave it a best buy rating. They did emphasize it needs to be calibrated and has issues with contouring that can't be adjusted. The reviews of the 1080p sets from Mitsu and Sammy were not nearly as favorable (Mitsu software issues and bobbing 540 + Sammy issues with the DNLe enhancer).

Thanks ChuckBuster

I went to a local HHGregg and saw the Tosh next to the new JVC Lcos. Here's my opinion from watching a football game on HD.

When looking at a sideline scenes, the Tosh showed more details of the coaches' face or upclose shots in interviews. The JVC smoothed out the details...like someone had taken a pencil eraser and went through the shots' details.
The Tosh was brighter and the whites were more whites...
The JVC, however, strangely enough showed more details of the grass, in this particular dome where they were playing. Another word, the details in the background were more sharp than on the Tosh.
The JVC seems to have better coloring over all. Green grass were more green..etc...over all color saturation was better on the JVC but I wonder if this is something that I can calibrate on the Tosh.
Go figure.
I want a 60"...and even at this size..it's kinda stretching a little bit. I don't know if I can go 62". if the Tosh has a 60", that's a no brainer for me...such good PQ and good price.

Now, how does the sharpness of the Tosh compared to that of the Sony SXRD?
I know the sony has great coloring, black level etc..and no rainbows...

I've found that the source SD greatly influences the picture quality. For the most part Dish Network looks fine on the TV, not great, but definitely watchable. My locals on DN are not great though. This is a matter of the quality of feed DN is getting my locals. Since all my locals now have digital broadcast, I normally switch over to OTA for the locals and they look fairly good, even for non-hd programming. I've heard that Direct TV channels don't look very good on these tv's, but I've not seen it for myself.

Ken


My DirecTV SD channels are horrible. HD is nice looking but you goto SD and you make sure you have no company, because its embarrasing to have a 62' TV and look that crappy.

My DirecTV SD channels are horrible. HD is nice looking but you goto SD and you make sure you have no company, because its embarrasing to have a 62' TV and look that crappy.

Hmm That's good to know. Thanks Yukon.

A lot of the posts here are people with problems and questions on how to resolve them, I understand that, but can I hear from some people with the HM195 series Toshibas that are happy :) with their sets and have been relatively trouble free?? Please? Are you out there?

Well I've had my 62HM195 since early October and I, too, am loving it. The first couple weeks I was wondering if I had gone too big, but I'm used to it and loving it. I have Adelphia in Cleveland and the HD channels look great. The local affiliates, however...well that's hit or miss. Particularly the ABC affiliate, WEWS, which made the Ohio State season tough to watch.

I've just very simply changed the settings here and there, and I've found that it looks perfect. I am having one problem, not sure what it is from. I could not get the HDMI to consistently work at all, I think that was a problem with the cable box. So I'm using component. Every once in a while, when I turn the tv/cable on, the picture is very red hued, and skipping all over the screen. If I switch to another outlet, and then back to the component, it's fixed. It's happened maybe 5 or 6 times.

Well I've had my 62HM195 since early October and I, too, am loving it. The first couple weeks I was wondering if I had gone too big, but I'm used to it and loving it. I have Adelphia in Cleveland and the HD channels look great. The local affiliates, however...well that's hit or miss. Particularly the ABC affiliate, WEWS, which made the Ohio State season tough to watch.

I've just very simply changed the settings here and there, and I've found that it looks perfect. I am having one problem, not sure what it is from. I could not get the HDMI to consistently work at all, I think that was a problem with the cable box. So I'm using component. Every once in a while, when I turn the tv/cable on, the picture is very red hued, and skipping all over the screen. If I switch to another outlet, and then back to the component, it's fixed. It's happened maybe 5 or 6 times.


I have the same model as you (had it for about a month now). That happened to me today for the first time, I was on HDMI input not component. I had to turn off the TV for several seconds to get it back to normal.

Just wanted to let you know it's not just your set :)

If anyone is having PQ issues you may want to try a CableCard. It makes a remarkable difference on SD channels and actually slightly improves the PQ on HD channels.

I am having one problem, not sure what it is from. I could not get the HDMI to consistently work at all, I think that was a problem with the cable box. So I'm using component. Every once in a while, when I turn the tv/cable on, the picture is very red hued, and skipping all over the screen. If I switch to another outlet, and then back to the component, it's fixed. It's happened maybe 5 or 6 times.

I have a 56MX195 and have had the same problem. I contacted Toshiba support and they recommended resetting the TV to factory settings and unplugging it for at least 3 minutes. The problem then goes away for a while but then comes back at least in my experience. Are you using an off-air antenna also in your setup? It seems that when I added one to mine the ghosting problem started occurring. I was having a problem with my off-air antenna and did make some changes where I had the TV off but not unplugged when I disconnected and connected other antennas. I'm not sure if that is the cause or not but it seems this TV wants everything connected before being plugged in.

Toshiba tech support said if the above didn't work to have an authorized service technician take a look at the set. I did the factory reset again last Friday and so far the ghosting hasn't been there when powering on the set.

Has anyone been able to attach a DVD player to the TV via HDMI and then play sound through a home theater receiver via the optical output from the TV? I just got a new Sony DVP-NS70H DVD player and can hear sound from the TV speakers when I connect to the TV using HDMI, but I can't get any sound to play through my receiver when conecting from the TV optical audio output. The receiver does play sound if I tune to a digtal channel via cablecard input. I haven't been able to get anything to play from an HDMI source.

I didn't think you could do that. I would be surprised if the TV routes audio from the hdmi connector to the optical output. Also, the audio coming in from the hdmi is only 2 channel.


Ken

You basically need to connect a DVD via HDMI to the TV and a digital coax cable from DVD to Receiver and then a Toslink optical cable from TV to Receiver.

You will get DOLBY (when available) through the receiver from the TV and DVD player. Mine is set up this way and works great.

You basically need to connect a DVD via HDMI to the TV and a digital coax cable from DVD to Receiver and then a Toslink optical cable from TV to Receiver.

You will get DOLBY (when available) through the receiver from the TV and DVD player. Mine is set up this way and works great.

jumpinjoe,

Mine works great too, but I use somewhat different connection patterns.

1. DVD player to HDMI with digital coax to receiver.

2. Comcast Motorola 6412 DVI to HDMI with RCA audio, optical cable to receiver.

I have a Harmony 676 remote that runs the entire show with macros programmed at their website. Just push one button and it sets everything perfectly with just one remote. Examples of my macros:
Watch DVD, Watch TV (no amp), Radio Tuner, MusicChoice, 5.1 TV, Listen to CD

My DirecTV SD channels are horrible. HD is nice looking but you goto SD and you make sure you have no company, because its embarrasing to have a 62' TV and look that crappy.
Mine don't look that bad. Of course, they are being fed to the TV in 1080i upscaled by an HR10-250.

somebody knows the link for owner manual or service manual?
can not find it at their homepage.

thx
niko

The page is temporarily unavailable.

http://tacpservice.toshiba.com/ConsumerProductSupport/owners_manuals.asp

Well, I loaded the new 1.2.8 S/W this week.

The main problem I was having was related to the occasional decoding corruption where channels starting getting corrupted/blocking errors. It was worse on some channels than others, but if I hit a bad channel any other channel I tuned to would likely also get corrupted so it wasn't a signal/channel issue.

Today I had the same problem. The only way to clear it is to power cycle the TV. The good news is that I didn't even lose the clock time when doing this, and the TVGOS data has not flinched. I do believe the decoding issues are related to confusion between the tuner and cable card. This is the second cable card I've used, and the problem was on both, so I don't think it's the card itself, but likely an interaction issue.

The one thing I haven't done is perform a factory reset to possibly clear everything out and start from scratch again. When I upgrade to 1.2.8 S/W this week, I was surprised that it did not perform a full factory reset since all my setup menu settings remained intact (audio, video, favorites) as did my TVGOS setup (zip code, etc.).

Has anyone else had this occasional decoding problem? When it happens, the picture gets blocking errors all over that never recover.

You basically need to connect a DVD via HDMI to the TV and a digital coax cable from DVD to Receiver and then a Toslink optical cable from TV to Receiver.

You will get DOLBY (when available) through the receiver from the TV and DVD player. Mine is set up this way and works great.

I have my setup exactly as you describe and have no problem with the DVD sound when going directly from the DVD to receiver. However, my question is if anyone has ever been able to connect a dolby source via HDMI to the television and then go from the televison optical out to a recever. From kstevens69 post, I gather that this is not possible becuase there is only 2-channel information being sent to the TV over HDMI and the TV will only output a a digital feed over the optical out. I am only intersetd in this because my receiver is a little old and has very limited optical and coax digital inputs. It would be covenient if I could use the TV as a switch.

magredc5:

My systems show problems when I switch to a channel which is having decoding issues. The screen turns black for 3-5 seconds and you can't do anything with the remote. Then the TV switches to channel 3 and if you try to change channels it will give the "finding channels" message.

It's usually a local HD channel which makes the system freeze and it varies from week to week which one will cause the problem.

magredc5:

My systems show problems when I switch to a channel which is having decoding issues. The screen turns black for 3-5 seconds and you can't do anything with the remote. Then the TV switches to channel 3 and if you try to change channels it will give the "finding channels" message.

It's usually a local HD channel which makes the system freeze and it varies from week to week which one will cause the problem.


Sounds like your TV just loses the CC signal all together since what you're describing is the same thing as if you just ejected the CC. It could be similar to my issue as I really think there are still some quirks between the CC and the tuner where any small glitch can cause it to get out of sync.

I'll see how mine works and then maybe try a full factory reset if it continues, but I doubt that will change anything.

The only stations which sometimes cause the problem are ABC, NBC, CBS and FOX all in HD. It's all random. I can be watching Fox HD then change the station to Discovery HD and when I change it back to Fox it freezes up. After it freezes my channel line up is gone and so is the time on TVGOS.

So...maybe we should keeping using the STB instead of the CC for now until they these issues?

I have a strange line on the inside bottom of my screen its above and just to the right of the sceeen above the toshibe logo. Its aboout 1/4 of in above the bezel and roughly 3 inches long. Its perfectly parallel to the bezel.

The best description is it looks like a etch a sketch. The mark is clearly on the inside and not on the outside. It is present on all inputs and in the exact same place. The TV is brand new. Had it about 28 days or so. Nothing shows in that location as far as video is concerned. It's visable even in bloack areas of the screen.

I snapped a picture for folks to look at. I think I should be requesting a new TV.

Here is the Picture (http://fuat.info/pict/tv.jpg)

Anyone got any ideas let me know.

I have a strange line on the inside bottom of my screen its above and just to the right of the sceeen above the toshibe logo. Its aboout 1/4 of in above the bezel and roughly 3 inches long. Its perfectly parallel to the bezel.

The best description is it looks like a etch a sketch. The mark is clearly on the inside and not on the outside. It is present on all inputs and in the exact same place. The TV is brand new. Had it about 28 days or so. Nothing shows in that location as far as video is concerned. It's visable even in bloack areas of the screen.

I snapped a picture for folks to look at. I think I should be requesting a new TV.

Here is the

Anyone got any ideas let me know.
Looks like you screen is scratched to me...is this visable when the TV is off???? It may not be with the "protective" screen on it. I may be too much of a n00b though to give my input just thought I d give you my thoughts...Good Luck hope everything works out for you.

Thats a good question? Nope it's not visable with the tv off. My fingerprints where I tried to feel whether it was inside or outside are visable with it off...LOL

Hey guys, I’ve started the following thread:

“>>> The Official Toshiba 56/62/72 MX195/HM195 HTPC FAQ Thread <<<”
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=624229

This thread is used for discussing HTPC (Home Theatre Personal Computer) connectivity related questions for the following Toshiba 1080P DLP models:
72MX195
72HM195
62MX195
62HM195
56MX195
56HM195

Figured we could streamline the HTPC questions for these similar models into one appropriate thread, and leave this existing thread for non-HTPC related questions.

The purpose of this new HTPC thread is to share your experiences/successes/problems with connecting any of the above TV’s to a Home Theatre PC. Therefore, the threads objective is to provide information so that all the above DLP owners will be able to successfully achieve the maximum picture quality by connecting their HTPC to their DLP television, whether one is using the HDMI, VGA, or component video connector.

Thanks

JC

============================================================ ===
Below is a list of notable threads concerning Toshiba 1080P DLP owners (MX195/HM195):

“>>> The Official Toshiba 56/62/72 MX195/HM195 HTPC FAQ Thread <<<”
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=624229

“The OFFICIAL Toshiba 56MX195/62MX195/72MX195 OWNER'S THREAD”
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=597364

“Toshiba 1080p DLPs”
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=541611

“The Toshiba DLP (HM/HMX) Owners Thread”
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=438276

============================================================ ===

Thats a good question? Nope it's not visable with the tv off. My fingerprints where I tried to feel whether it was inside or outside are visable with it off...LOLI believe you should have a tech. come look,but, I believe it is a light engine issue. Some light is being blocked in the same place(misalignment,jarred in shipping). I had my 56HM195 delivered from local Conn's on 12/12/05.That night I noticed two mushroom shaped grey images on a black screen.Called tech. next day.came out and said "its the LE".Ordered and replaced 1 week later (still had great pq,watched until in home replacement).My thoughts were possibly an updated LE if replaced, rather than getting a replacement Aug. build set from Conn's. Its now perfect. In cases where varience of light issues arise,invariabily it is the engine "leaking" light,as in my case,or "blocking" light in your case. All this offered as my opinion only. You really should have a tech take a look and come back with info.

http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-11246_7-6388574.html?tag=txt This also may be of interest to anyone concerning 1080p.

http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-11246_7-6388574.html?tag=txt This also may be of interest to anyone concerning 1080p.

Why would this be of interest? I'm not trying to be a wise guy but it's not important because nothing is produced in 1080p. So what are we really missing?

[QUOTE=jumpinjoe]Why would this be of interest? I'm not trying to be a wise guy but it's not important because nothing is produced in 1080p. So what are we really missing?[/QUOTE 1. You use I and we.You are obviously not the intended of this reference. 2. We can understamd that this is the Tosh 1080p forum and many people surf here looking for this very information.

Hello All, I got my 56HM195 1 month ago, but have been eyeing these Tosh threads since before I bought it. Tons of great info guys!
Anyways I absolutely love the picture of my 56" I have not had any TGOS problems
or any other until recently. I was a little concerned about fan noise it's a lot louder than my 43" Samsung I had, but was getting used to it.
The other day When I seleced POP the window with the ANT input was black with sound I tried ANT1 and ANT2 same results no Picture only audio. I also noticed a loud HUM from the oposite side of the lamp. The only way I could get it to work was to unplug it then it would work fine for a few days then do it again. Now the loud HUM is constant and the POP problem is intermittent. I called Toshiba and the CSR gave the the names of 2 service centers one 75 miles away and the other 55 miles away and told me to contact them to see if they required additional mileage if so I must fax Toshiba a copy of my reciept so they can authorize the the extra mileage.
I called the first place they said 3-4 weeks so I called the 2nd one they said next week but required authorization for mileage. So I faxed my reciept to Toshiba today.
And now I wait. Sorry for the ramble, but what a pain in the A$$
I'll keep you posted I guessing several weeks to get er done!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK, this has happened to me twice now in a weeks time. I have not seen any mention of something similar in the Toshiba forums. One of my inputs is to Comcast cable. We only get the cheap, basic package, but the cool thing is the local digitals and both INHDs come through as well as any On-Demand that our neighbors are watching :) Twice now, the digital stations have lost video. Just a black screen. Audio is fine. The non-digital stations are fine.

The first time this happened, I had to reset the TV to factory defaults and pull the power to the TV and then reprogram all of the settings again. A bit of a pain. Has this happened to anyone else? Any one know of a way I might be able to get the video back without a hard reset of the unit? I wonder if this is something that a firmware update might take care of? Hmmm... think I'll call them tomorrow and see what they say.

I am losing digital picture also when I have the POP problem. Even after I turn off POP I am unable to get digital either from cable or Antenna until I unplug the TV. I do not have to do a factory defaults just unplug..

hi guys! wud u recommend if i still get the 46HM94 model? tnx

hi guys! wud u recommend if i still get the 46HM94 model? tnx

yes

Well I've had my 62HM195 since early October and I, too, am loving it. I've just very simply changed the settings here and there, and I've found that it looks perfect. I am having one problem, not sure what it is from. I could not get the HDMI to consistently work at all, I think that was a problem with the cable box. So I'm using component. Every once in a while, when I turn the tv/cable on, the picture is very red hued, and skipping all over the screen. If I switch to another outlet, and then back to the component, it's fixed. It's happened maybe 5 or 6 times.

:( I am having an issue (since I took delivery on 12/29) with my Cablevision STB and HDMI as well...great picture, then if I turn off the set, the next time I turn it on I get snow, I need to reboot the STB by unlugging and only then do I get a pic again. I Called Toshiba and they are having a local guy come look at it tomorrow, they say it sounds like bad HDMI inputs....IMHO, you should make sure your HDMI inputs work perfectly, as with all of the copy protection BS coming down the pike who knows if we will be able to get the best pic from component in the future....btw I am pissed off as it was not working properly out of the box!!

:( I am having an issue (since I took delivery on 12/29) with my Cablevision STB and HDMI as well...great picture, then if I turn off the set, the next time I turn it on I get snow, I need to reboot the STB by unlugging and only then do I get a pic again. I Called Toshiba and they are having a local guy come look at it tomorrow, they say it sounds like bad HDMI inputs....IMHO, you should make sure your HDMI inputs work perfectly, as with all of the copy protection BS coming down the pike who knows if we will be able to get the best pic from component in the future....btw I am pissed off as it was not working properly out of the box!!


You might want to give comcast a call. When I had my STB connected via HDMI, I would sometimes change inputs on the TV to check out my CC. When I returned to the STB HDMI input, my AV receiver (which was connected to the digital coax output from the STB) woud click and only receive stereo sound from the box. After about 30 sec, the box would send dolby 5.1 again. If I connect the box using component cables, this never happens. I never have this problem with my DVD player which is now connected to that same HDMI port. It sounds like you may have a comcast problem to me which is not at all surprising considering I got 3 broken CCs in a row from them. Do you have some other source that outputs using HDMI that you could test the port with?

sir toenail tnx for the reply... im actually choosing between the 46HM94 & the samsung HL-R4266W....wat do u suggest i get? tnx!

sir toenail tnx for the reply... im actually choosing between the 46HM94 & the samsung HL-R4266W....wat do u suggest i get? tnx!

If memory serves I've only directly compared the Sammy hlr5067 and the Tosh 52hm95. I spent about an hour at Sears adjusting both to their most accurate (by eye) and noting the differences. The Sammy was a bit softer but offered better color adjustability for the user. The Tosh was sharper. They were pretty much a toss up.

Any calibration settings yet on HM195 sets? Please share results.

OK don't know if you guys need another rave review, but here goes. I was back and forth between the the Toshiba 56" and the HP Pavillion 58" but a $1000 Boxing Week discount on the Toshiba sold me on that unit. It arrived yesterday.

The only calibration I have done is to put the lamp on Low. I'll tweak the settings this weekend, although they don't look like they need much tweaking ... the PQ is outstanding. I'm using an inexpensive Sony upconverting 1080i DVD player (forget the model number but in $170 range in Toronto), and Rogers Cable (all digital channels) for a TV source (component connection, DVI to HDMI cable on order).

I'm sitting about 8' away and the PQ is so solid I could close that gap by a foot or so. Zero SD effect. Zero rainbows and I'm looking for them.

Impressions:

Standard Def PQ is far better than I expected. Rogers apparently isn't overly compressing the SD signals for most channels. I'm watching the original 4:3 picture, not stretched to fit. SD loses some clarity obviously when used in one of the Theatre (stretched) modes. Generally very watchable.

DVD quality is better than I expected as well ... I guess the Sony upscaler is doing a credible job. Sin City and Star Wars III, for example, are very near HD quality to my eye ... I'll start to notice differences in DVD transfer quality now ... DVDs all looked the same on my 32" CRT. One of the big advantages to switching to the 16:9 screen is that letter-boxed DVD images are 5-6X larger than they were previously ... with far superior PQ to boot. You see a better image than you do at the movie theater.

Cable HDTV quality is both better and worse than I expected. I'm not sure what is going on with some of the HD material. I suspect Rogers might be mislabeling some programs as HD when they really aren't. The ABC (I think it is) HD wasn't quite as detailed as NBC and CBS programs (did I read somewhere that ABC HD was 720p and the other two were 1080i? .. if so that might explain it). Also the ABC HD doesn't stretch to 16:9 .. maybe I'm doing something stupid. However GOOD HD source generates breathtaking images. The Letterman and Leno shows were stunning in their clarity. A Canadian cable hockey game was better than outstanding .. couldn't take my eyes off it.

So bottom line is I was a little apprehensive buying this model without having seen it ... but boy oh boy am I ever glad I did :-)

Ok, the tech came out, and it turned out the "scratch" was actually dust or something internal on the tv screen. Ussing a large reaching thing and some fine white cloth able to clean it off and its gone now. So no light engine problems.

So a quick question? Can anyone tell me for sure what directTV looks like on these TV's. I watch a lot of sd programing so I need the best source I can get for that.

I mean I have to be honest the picture is SOO crappy(witH cable) on sci-fi that I have resorted to downloading the things I want to watch and play the xvids on my xbox which upscales to 1080i and THEY look awesome.

I can't comment on DTV but Dish SD comes through very good if watched in 4:3 mode.


Ken

Cable HDTV quality is both better and worse than I expected. I'm not sure what is going on with some of the HD material. I suspect Rogers might be mislabeling some programs as HD when they really aren't. The ABC (I think it is) HD wasn't quite as detailed as NBC and CBS programs (did I read somewhere that ABC HD was 720p and the other two were 1080i? .. if so that might explain it). Also the ABC HD doesn't stretch to 16:9 .. maybe I'm doing something stupid. However GOOD HD source generates breathtaking images. The Letterman and Leno shows were stunning in their clarity. A Canadian cable hockey game was better than outstanding .. couldn't take my eyes off it.

So bottom line is I was a little apprehensive buying this model without having seen it ... but boy oh boy am I ever glad I did :-)
Sounds as if you probably are set to "natural" on pic size setting,but,you might check.I'm not familiar with ABC in Canada but you should be getting ABC HD in 16:9 size.I have the same set and love it as well!

Originally Posted by TorontoDoug

Cable HDTV quality is both better and worse than I expected. I'm not sure what is going on with some of the HD material. I suspect Rogers might be mislabeling some programs as HD when they really aren't. The ABC (I think it is) HD wasn't quite as detailed as NBC and CBS programs (did I read somewhere that ABC HD was 720p and the other two were 1080i? .. if so that might explain it). Also the ABC HD doesn't stretch to 16:9 .. maybe I'm doing something stupid. However GOOD HD source generates breathtaking images. The Letterman and Leno shows were stunning in their clarity. A Canadian cable hockey game was better than outstanding .. couldn't take my eyes off it.

Sounds as if you probably are set to "natural" on pic size setting,but,you might check.I'm not familiar with ABC in Canada but you should be getting ABC HD in 16:9 size.I have the same set and love it as well!

ABC/NBC and CBS (as well as others) do not always transmit HD programming on their HD channels. News is never HD (at least not in my area). When this happens, they transmit 4:3 aspect with grey or black side bars. So even though the channel info says 720p or 1080i which means the incoming signal is HD, the source material is only 480i and repackaged onto the HD channel. Anytime you see a 4:3 aspect on an HD channel, that's the case.

In other words, your HD channels will always come in as HD transmissions (720p/1080i), but the material may not. It's not a Rogers issue of relabeling as they only distribute the programming.

Hello everyone, I have the 62hm195 coming in about a week. Can anyone look in the manual and see what the horizontal scan rate is for the hdmi and component inputs are?

On my old Mitsubishi hdtv they were 33.75mhz. I`m trying to see if a computer can be connected eventhough I`ve heard many say the manual says not to. I had my mitsubishi 65" inch connect for three years without a problem and it wasn`t supposed to be either, however setting the the horizontal scan scan rate should make it sync fine. Of course you have to set the correct resolution and refresh rate also.

Shoul be in the very back of the manual.

Thanks for the help anyone.

Hello everyone, I have the 62hm195 coming in about a week. Can anyone look in the manual and see what the horizontal scan rate is for the hdmi and component inputs are?

On my old Mitsubishi hdtv they were 33.75mhz. I`m trying to see if a computer can be connected eventhough I`ve heard many say the manual says not to. I had my mitsubishi 65" inch connect for three years without a problem and it wasn`t supposed to be either, however setting the the horizontal scan scan rate should make it sync fine. Of course you have to set the correct resolution and refresh rate also.

Shoul be in the very back of the manual.

Thanks for the help anyone.

Here's what's in the manual. Nothing about horizontal scan rate, but maybe this will help:

HDMI™ INPUT:
HDMI compliant (type A connector)
HDCP compliant
E-EDID** compliant
Suggested formats: 1080i, 480p, 480i, 720p
HDMI Audio: 2-channel PCM; 32/44.1/48 kHz sampling
frequency; 16/20/24 bits per sample

S-VIDEO INPUT:
Y : 1 V(p-p), 75 ohm, negative sync.
C : 0.286 V(p-p) (burst signal), 75 ohm

VIDEO/AUDIO INPUT:
VIDEO: 1 V(p-p), 75 ohm, negative sync.
AUDIO: 150 mV(rms) (30% modulation equivalent,
22 k ohm or greater)

ColorStream® (component video) HD INPUT:
Y : 1V(p-p), 75 ohm
PR: 0.7 V(p-p), 75 ohm
PB: 0.7 V(p-p), 75 ohm
AUDIO: 150 mV(rms), 22 k ohm or greater
Suggested formats: 1080i, 480p, 480i, 720p

Well I've had my 62HM195 since early October and I, too, am loving it. The first couple weeks I was wondering if I had gone too big, but I'm used to it and loving it. I have Adelphia in Cleveland and the HD channels look great. The local affiliates, however...well that's hit or miss. Particularly the ABC affiliate, WEWS, which made the Ohio State season tough to watch.

I've just very simply changed the settings here and there, and I've found that it looks perfect. I am having one problem, not sure what it is from. I could not get the HDMI to consistently work at all, I think that was a problem with the cable box. So I'm using component. Every once in a while, when I turn the tv/cable on, the picture is very red hued, and skipping all over the screen. If I switch to another outlet, and then back to the component, it's fixed. It's happened maybe 5 or 6 times.

I've had the 62mx195 since mid Oct. and have seen the same red hued screen 6 or 8 times when powering on the tv/cable; the red picture scrolls in frames continuously from right to left. Each time I've fixed the problem the same way as Pucky: Switch to another input and then back again using the tv remote. Called Ultimate Electronics, the seller, they hadn't heard of anything similar, but they hadn't sold very many of that model at the time. They suggested it may be the cable box. Called Comcast, no help either. Anyone have any other ideas?

Other than that the tv performance is great. HD programming is spectacular. Seating is 12' to 14' back. Lamp set on normal (not high/bright).

Quote:
Originally Posted by enmoco
Originally Posted by TorontoDoug

Cable HDTV quality is both better and worse than I expected. I'm not sure what is going on with some of the HD material. I suspect Rogers might be mislabeling some programs as HD when they really aren't. The ABC (I think it is) HD wasn't quite as detailed as NBC and CBS programs (did I read somewhere that ABC HD was 720p and the other two were 1080i? .. if so that might explain it). Also the ABC HD doesn't stretch to 16:9 .. maybe I'm doing something stupid. However GOOD HD source generates breathtaking images. The Letterman and Leno shows were stunning in their clarity. A Canadian cable hockey game was better than outstanding .. couldn't take my eyes off it.
[/[QUOTE]QUOTE] Enmoco
Sounds as if you probably are set to "natural" on pic size setting,but,you might check.I'm not familiar with ABC in Canada but you should be getting ABC HD in 16:9 size.I have the same set and love it as well!

Magredc5
ABC/NBC and CBS (as well as others) do not always transmit HD programming on their HD channels. News is never HD (at least not in my area). When this happens, they transmit 4:3 aspect with grey or black side bars. So even though the channel info says 720p or 1080i which means the incoming signal is HD, the source material is only 480i and repackaged onto the HD channel. Anytime you see a 4:3 aspect on an HD channel, that's the case.

In other words, your HD channels will always come in as HD transmissions (720p/1080i), but the material may not. It's not a Rogers issue of relabeling as they only distribute the programming. QUOTE]Thank you for your far more detailed post. It is accurate in its content. I was aware this is the case.TorontoDoug's post just said ABC didn't stretch.Not "sometimes" or "never" for that manner. My short post was to advise of "natural" setting only,as I stated I have no knowledge of local programming,content or quality. Thanks again

I've had the 62mx195 since mid Oct. and have seen the same red hued screen 6 or 8 times when powering on the tv/cable; the red picture scrolls in frames continuously from right to left. Each time I've fixed the problem the same way as Pucky: Switch to another input and then back again using the tv remote. Called Ultimate Electronics, the seller, they hadn't heard of anything similar, but they hadn't sold very many of that model at the time. They suggested it may be the cable box. Called Comcast, no help either. Anyone have any other ideas?

Other than that the tv performance is great. HD programming is spectacular. Seating is 12' to 14' back. Lamp set on normal (not high/bright).


My set shuts off w/o warning several times a day. I have to reboot to get it back. I also had the input problem when on hdmi inputs. Now on component. Toshiba not responding to my request for fix. I think they have big problems with elec in these sets and don,t have a fix yet. I am on Dish and use dvd. Same prob on both. I've had this sey since Oct. One of the first. Agree that pic is great but so far Toshiba Consumer Service is totally lacking. Perhaps they see a big recall in the future and are terrified. I know they had to recall there first dvd effort with HDMI becuse it didn't work.

My set shuts off w/o warning several times a day. I have to reboot to get it back. I also had the input problem when on hdmi inputs. Now on component. Toshiba not responding to my request for fix. I think they have big problems with elec in these sets and don,t have a fix yet. I am on Dish and use dvd. Same prob on both. I've had this sey since Oct. One of the first. Agree that pic is great but so far Toshiba Consumer Service is totally lacking. Perhaps they see a big recall in the future and are terrified. I know they had to recall there first dvd effort with HDMI becuse it didn't work.

I've had my 56HM195 since Sept and have never had the set reboot once except when I pulled the plug for a storm. Just thinking about your problem, do you have the system stabilized in some way? I use the Tripp Lite 1500 which provides surge, UPS, and clean power.

From the manual:
If you unplug the power cord, when you plug the power cord in
again the message “Now Booting…” will displayed on the
screen until the picture appears or the yellow LED will blink until
the TV enters standby mode. This is normal and is not a sign of
malfunction.

Also in the manual:
Note: To ensure that the HDMI or DVI device is reset
properly, it is recommended that you follow these
procedures:
• When turning on your electronic components, turn on
the TV first, and then the HDMI or DVI device.
• When turning off your electronic components, turn off
the HDMI or DVI device first, and then the TV.

I do not follow this procedure and sometimes when I turn the set on or when I go from HDMI 2 to HDMI 1 I will get 2 side by side pictures with misc color. This is my signal to sync the system. I change the channel and then back. The system is now reset. This is not a defect, just sometimes necessary. Is this the type of issue you are seeing?

ABC/NBC and CBS (as well as others) do not always transmit HD programming on their HD channels. News is never HD (at least not in my area). When this happens, they transmit 4:3 aspect with grey or black side bars. So even though the channel info says 720p or 1080i which means the incoming signal is HD, the source material is only 480i and repackaged onto the HD channel. Anytime you see a 4:3 aspect on an HD channel, that's the case.

In other words, your HD channels will always come in as HD transmissions (720p/1080i), but the material may not. It's not a Rogers issue of relabeling as they only distribute the programming.


Thanks. The PQ on some of the local HD channels, when in 4:3 aspect, is outstanding and sure looks to me like it is HD. For example, and maybe some other Rogers subscriber could confirm this, the CTV 11 PM news, even though broadcast in 4:3 aspect, looks to be HD to me ... the studio shots, not the remote cameras. Similarly I think with the CITY news broadcasts although I'm not so positive about that one ...

I've had my 56HM195 since Sept and have never had the set reboot once except when I pulled the plug for a storm. Just thinking about your problem, do you have the system stabilized in some way? I use the Tripp Lite 1500 which provides surge, UPS, and clean power.

From the manual:
If you unplug the power cord, when you plug the power cord in
again the message “Now Booting…” will displayed on the
screen until the picture appears or the yellow LED will blink until
the TV enters standby mode. This is normal and is not a sign of
malfunction.

Also in the manual:
Note: To ensure that the HDMI or DVI device is reset
properly, it is recommended that you follow these
procedures:
• When turning on your electronic components, turn on
the TV first, and then the HDMI or DVI device.
• When turning off your electronic components, turn off
the HDMI or DVI device first, and then the TV.

I do not follow this procedure and sometimes when I turn the set on or when I go from HDMI 2 to HDMI 1 I will get 2 side by side pictures with misc color. This is my signal to sync the system. I change the channel and then back. The system is now reset. This is not a defect, just sometimes necessary. Is this the type of issue you are seeing?
Thanks for the input. I tried everything in the manual to no avail. Toshiba came through today and is sending me a new set. I beleve a may have had a bad bus and bad boards as well as HDMI issues. It took a while to get Toshiba to respond but they seem to have come through for me. I am supposed to get a new set in 10 to 15 days. I'll let you know how it goes.

I am so impressed by the picture and sound of these hm195's I bought 2 sets (62hm195) for my kids hoping my problems are a fluke.

I know there has been much discussion in this particular forum re: picture quality, noise, pixelation, etc. plus 1080P software availability discussions. In Wednesday's edition of Consumer Electronics Daily, A Warren Publication, dated August 24, Mark Cuban is quoted as follows:

"TV set makers are without question, the most abused, beaten up, and taken advantage of industry and it's time they stood up to program distributors who would degrade HD picture quality by multicasting, HDNet Chairman Mark Cuban told the DisplaySearch HDTV Conference in Beverly Hills on Tuesday"

Cuban said the government sits idly by as broadcasters refuse to turn back the analog spectrum, but responds to the DTV impasse by slapping set makers with a DTV tuner mandate. Cuban said set makers have been the losers in many of the "death wars" they have been involved in. The time has come for set makers to "dish it out" against program distributors and content owners that want to squeeze more channels into available bandwidth.

"That's a real problem for you guys", Cuban told set makers in the conference audience. "Hardly anyone" is talking about using MPEG codecs to enhance picture quality, Cuban said. "That means that all the work you're putting into improving picture quality is wasted. It's meaningless." Failure to "stand up" to content interests means set makers will continue to be the "red-headed stepchildren who'll be pushed around," Cuban said.

Multicast-related MPEG compression artifacts of the type Cuban described are most visible on the larger screen flat panel displays and mircodisplay rear projection TV's that are most popular at retail today,said Peter Putnam, president of Roam Consulting, Doylestown, PA. Common artifacts include "mosquito noise," usually seen around fast moving objects, such as cheerleaders on the sidelines on an NFL broadcast, he said. "Some of these artifacts are intrinsic to the display technology being used," Putnam said. "Combined with compression artifacts, they make for a pretty nasty big-screen image."

The rebuttal came from CBS vp-engineering and advanced technology, Robert Seidel. "CBS is fanatical about preserving picture quality." "From the start," Seidel said, "we have insisted that everything be acquired in 1920X1080." At the CBS film lot in Hollywood, Seidel said, 23 of the sound stages are equipped for 1920X1080P/24. Moreover, all new cameras installed at CBS's Television City facility are 1920X180P/60, he said. "Our goal is to preserve the quality from the very first frame," he said."We have refused to lower our data rate," Seidel said, conceding that it has become a "contentious issue" with CBS program distributors. "We don't want to take it down to 14 megabits or 12 megabits. We don't believe that's quality."

Cliff notes - Cuban said something that makes sense and was not a senseless rant. Kudos to CBS 1080P for future thinking.

Originally Posted by enmoco
http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-11246_...74.html?tag=txt This also may be of interest to anyone concerning 1080p. Why would this be of interest? I'm not trying to be a wise guy but it's not important because nothing is produced in 1080p. So what are we really missing?
Uh,thats what the article says.Inrerest:A state of curiosity or concern about or attention to something: an interest in sports.

Uh,thats what the article says.Inrerest:A state of curiosity or concern about or attention to something: an interest in sports.


Me think you need a zoloft or two. You take care now :)

Me think you need a zoloft or two. You take care now :)
Ah,your into drugs.I see now.

All you veteran Microdisplay owners, please vote on lamp life here;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=629175

Has anything come out of CES 2006 about whether or not the next generation of these sets will accept 1080P over HDMI/Component/PC Connection?

Hi All - First time to post, been lurking for a bit.

I just purchased a 62mx195. I must admit the HD over DTV is incredible. SD is however much worse than my old 57XBR10 Sony. Anyway - Is there an official solution to the input problem when the set is turned on? I am seeing the same thing that others have posted here about the set not syncing up with my inputs. If I do the obvious and switch the input and then return, everything works fine. This is a real annoyance. I do not want to turn the HD-TIVO off everynight as it records during the middle of the night. I understand that if I turn the TV on and then the TIVO that will work.

So - has anyone else received a resolution for this? Does the newer 1.2.8 flash update address this? Also - what is actually resolved in the flash.

My build is 1.2.4 with an August 2005 date for the bus. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? Thanks in advance.

Myke D.

Hi All - First time to post, been lurking for a bit.

I just purchased a 62mx195. I must admit the HD over DTV is incredible. SD is however much worse than my old 57XBR10 Sony. Anyway - Is there an official solution to the input problem when the set is turned on? I am seeing the same thing that others have posted here about the set not syncing up with my inputs. If I do the obvious and switch the input and then return, everything works fine. This is a real annoyance. I do not want to turn the HD-TIVO off everynight as it records during the middle of the night. I understand that if I turn the TV on and then the TIVO that will work.

So - has anyone else received a resolution for this? Does the newer 1.2.8 flash update address this? Also - what is actually resolved in the flash.

My build is 1.2.4 with an August 2005 date for the bus. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? Thanks in advance.

Myke D.The major reason for this update is to resolve issues with CC and TVGOS.

Hi All - First time to post, been lurking for a bit.

I just purchased a 62mx195. I must admit the HD over DTV is incredible. SD is however much worse than my old 57XBR10 Sony. Anyway - Is there an official solution to the input problem when the set is turned on? I am seeing the same thing that others have posted here about the set not syncing up with my inputs. If I do the obvious and switch the input and then return, everything works fine. This is a real annoyance. I do not want to turn the HD-TIVO off everynight as it records during the middle of the night. I understand that if I turn the TV on and then the TIVO that will work.



You do not have to turn off your TIVO as the connection to the TV has nothing to do with whether it records programming or not. As long as you have a cable, OTA, or satellite source coming into your TIVO, it will record. The TV is needed for viewing programming, not for recording it.

Hi All - First time to post, been lurking for a bit.

I just purchased a 62mx195. I must admit the HD over DTV is incredible. SD is however much worse than my old 57XBR10 Sony. Anyway - Is there an official solution to the input problem when the set is turned on? I am seeing the same thing that others have posted here about the set not syncing up with my inputs. If I do the obvious and switch the input and then return, everything works fine. This is a real annoyance. I do not want to turn the HD-TIVO off everynight as it records during the middle of the night. I understand that if I turn the TV on and then the TIVO that will work.

So - has anyone else received a resolution for this? Does the newer 1.2.8 flash update address this? Also - what is actually resolved in the flash.

My build is 1.2.4 with an August 2005 date for the bus. Can anyone shed some light on this for me? Thanks in advance.

Myke D.

I'm glad (sort of anyway) that I'm not the only person who is having this problem. So far I've seen mention of this problem by at least four people, with prize for first mention going to Packer4Fan, but no resolution.

I can add a few more factoids about the problem.
Basic stats: 56hm195/ Motorola 6215 Series II DVR/ el cheapo Toshiba HDMI DVD player and (for testing purposes) the even cheaper Tosh component DVD player.

1) I have had this happen to me when I turn on just the TV and I'm digging around for the DVD remote. This seems to rule out an earlier suggestion that this might be due to turning on the DVR or cablebox and the TV at the same time.

2) It seems like we all have the same issue, down to the fact that the picture is scrolling left to right.

3) I haven't tested this thouroghly yet, but it seems that the problem only occurs when I turn the set off while displaying HD channels.

This is happening several times a day, so I should call the Toshiba repair people... I am just very very lazy, and I hope to see a simple solution posted here :o

Lastly, I should say that I've had the TV for a week and it is a thing of beauty, even on the SD channels....

Hi:

I've had my 56HM195 for almost 2 months now and I've just started noticing a high pitched noise that comes on sometimes. At first I thought it was the fan getting noticably louder after the tv had been on for a while and the bulb had gotten hottter, but now I am wondering. The "loud" was present tonight as soon as I turned on the tv. By loud I mean uncomfortably so - higher then almost any 120mm fan could be unless it was rated to push well over 100 cfm - This one isn't. I started reading this thread and am left wondring if the people that had previously complained about the excessive noise had resolved the issue and, if so, was it the fan or something else. I am wondering if it could be the color wheel or something but can't understand why that would suddenly become so loud.

Thanks

Hi:

I've had my 56HM195 for almost 2 months now and I've just started noticing a high pitched noise that comes on sometimes. At first I thought it was the fan getting noticably louder after the tv had been on for a while and the bulb had gotten hottter, but now I am wondering. The "loud" was present tonight as soon as I turned on the tv. By loud I mean uncomfortably so - higher then almost any 120mm fan could be unless it was rated to push well over 100 cfm - This one isn't. I started reading this thread and am left wondring if the people that had previously complained about the excessive noise had resolved the issue and, if so, was it the fan or something else. I am wondering if it could be the color wheel or something but can't understand why that would suddenly become so loud.

Thanks
Same problem here. I pretty sure its not a fan but the HUMMM! is very loud.
Still waiting on a service call. CSR at Toshiba very nice, but living in the sticks just slows the process.

You do not have to turn off your TIVO as the connection to the TV has nothing to do with whether it records programming or not. As long as you have a cable, OTA, or satellite source coming into your TIVO, it will record. The TV is needed for viewing programming, not for recording it.

Hi - thanks for the response. I was refering to the sync issue between the HD TIVO and the TV - nothing to do with the recording process. I fully and completely understand that the TV is not required for recording. Let me clairify. I understand that the manual recommends to turn the TV on then the "signal providing device" in my case my HD-TIVO. Just turning the TV on and getting it to correctly sync with the "already live and active" incoming signal. The left to right shift problem happens with cable and satellite signals as i have both going to the TV in seperate inputs. I have tested this by turning the TV completely off.. unpluging, leaving the signal on and live to the TV, reboot TV and the problem persists until I switch the inputs with the remote.

Only then does the signal correct itself and display correctly. (BTW - this happens with HDMI, HD input 1, HD input 2, ANT1, ANT2.) THese are the ones I tested.

Further data: If you turn the TV off for a short amount of time... say 1 hour, the problem does not appear. Only when the TV is off for an extened period of time, say overnight for example.

Thanks again,
Myke

Hi - thanks for the response. I was refering to the sync issue between the HD TIVO and the TV - nothing to do with the recording process. I fully and completely understand that the TV is not required for recording. Let me clairify. I understand that the manual recommends to turn the TV on then the "signal providing device" in my case my HD-TIVO. Just turning the TV on and getting it to correctly sync with the "already live and active" incoming signal. The left to right shift problem happens with cable and satellite signals as i have both going to the TV in seperate inputs. I have tested this by turning the TV completely off.. unpluging, leaving the signal on and live to the TV, reboot TV and the problem persists until I switch the inputs with the remote.

Only then does the signal correct itself and display correctly. (BTW - this happens with HDMI, HD input 1, HD input 2, ANT1, ANT2.) THese are the ones I tested.

Further data: If you turn the TV off for a short amount of time... say 1 hour, the problem does not appear. Only when the TV is off for an extened period of time, say overnight for example.

Thanks again,
Myke

According to a service tech that came to my house, this problem is due to a misinterpretation of signal input by the television. It's getting interlace but expecting progressive or vice versa. He didn't have any explanation for how to fix it.

Just got off the phone with Toshiba regarding the Sync issue. It appears that they don't have any knowledge of it. They are going to send a tech out to review. I don't feel too confident about that however... I will keep the group informed.

Hi - thanks for the response. I was refering to the sync issue between the HD TIVO and the TV - nothing to do with the recording process. I fully and completely understand that the TV is not required for recording. Let me clairify. I understand that the manual recommends to turn the TV on then the "signal providing device" in my case my HD-TIVO. Just turning the TV on and getting it to correctly sync with the "already live and active" incoming signal. The left to right shift problem happens with cable and satellite signals as i have both going to the TV in seperate inputs. I have tested this by turning the TV completely off.. unpluging, leaving the signal on and live to the TV, reboot TV and the problem persists until I switch the inputs with the remote.

Only then does the signal correct itself and display correctly. (BTW - this happens with HDMI, HD input 1, HD input 2, ANT1, ANT2.) THese are the ones I tested.

Further data: If you turn the TV off for a short amount of time... say 1 hour, the problem does not appear. Only when the TV is off for an extened period of time, say overnight for example.

Thanks again,
Myke

I have a 62HM195 and have not experienced any of these problems. I see in your last post that you have a tech coming over to look at it. If your still within your time limit to return it, I would just exchange it for a new set and forget about the tech. Hopefully, this is the case for you.

Hi Everyone,

I just bought the 56HM195 and set it up yesterday. The HD channels look great but i noticed every once in a while I see pixelization when there is rapid movement in the picture. Is there anyway to prevent that?

Thanks,

Hi Everyone,

I just bought the 56HM195 and set it up yesterday. The HD channels look great but i noticed every once in a while I see pixelization when there is rapid movement in the picture. Is there anyway to prevent that?

Thanks,

Hey, I have the same set. Congrats. In the advanced picture options, choose the option no pixelization during rapid movement. :D

Seriously, enjoy the set for what it is. Sitting there and trying to find fault will drive you crazy and certainly lessen the enjoyment. Just remember, it is just tv.

Hi Everyone,

I just bought the 56HM195 and set it up yesterday. The HD channels look great but i noticed every once in a while I see pixelization when there is rapid movement in the picture. Is there anyway to prevent that?

Thanks,

Same thing with my 62MX195 for the first month or so. With time, you will no longer notice it. We'd all like them to be crystal clear & perfect, but no HDTV technology has that as yet. Good news is you will become accustomed to it and the set will look fantastic.

I had friends over Saturday to watch the playoffs on the 62". Neither couple had HDTV at home. The remark was made that a TV like this could change your life :) Gotta love it!

how about some pictures of your tv's playing HDTV?

Hey, I have the same set. Congrats. In the advanced picture options, choose the option no pixelization during rapid movement. :D

Seriously, enjoy the set for what it is. Sitting there and trying to find fault will drive you crazy and certainly lessen the enjoyment. Just remember, it is just tv.?

Hi Everyone,

I just bought the 56HM195 and set it up yesterday. The HD channels look great but i noticed every once in a while I see pixelization when there is rapid movement in the picture. Is there anyway to prevent that?

Thanks,

You sure that the problem isn't in the program material. After all, HD or not, it is compressed. Programmers try to squish the stuff as much as they can.

I have often seen pixelation in replays, even on analog programming. They use digital compression in their production stream. You can often see the results in replays of accidents in auto races.

I have been reading posts here for some time and am getting real close to getting a 62HM195, but have a few of questions:

1. Has anyone found a good stand that costs less than $200 that looks good with the TV?

2. I have D*TV now (SD), but have to decide between upgrading it or switching to TWC. Anyone have any comparisons between the two for this TV?

3. Would it be better to have a UPS that can cool the bulb on loss of power or one of these expensive filters?

4. Is it better now to wait for the next generation of models?

Thanks in advance!

I have been reading posts here for some time and am getting real close to getting a 62HM195, but have a few of questions:

1. Has anyone found a good stand that costs less than $200 that looks good with the TV?

2. I have D*TV now (SD), but have to decide between upgrading it or switching to TWC. Anyone have any comparisons between the two for this TV?

3. Would it be better to have a UPS that can cool the bulb on loss of power or one of these expensive filters?

4. Is it better now to wait for the next generation of models?

Thanks in advance!

Answers to your questions:

1. I havent seen any stands for less than $350 to $400. I built my own as I wanted it to fit in a corner of my family room and a custom one was the only thing that would work.

2. Anything in SD will not look as good as HD programming. I also had D*TV (SD) with TiVo that my wife loved. I couldnt get HD from D*TV as I live in the woods and have too many trees in the HD Sat line of site so I kept Sat (SD) for the TiVo (gotta keep the wife happy) and I have an HD DVR from Cablevision for me :) . Wherever you can get a HD signal from stick with that.

3. I have a UPS / line conditioner on my 62HM195 as piece of mind, it certainly cant hurt.

4. One can always say I'm going to wait for the next / better generation. You'll end up never buying anything. As the set you are looking at is 1080p there is no better resolution so I'd just go for it! I did and I love it!

Hope this helps. :D

I have been reading posts here for some time and am getting real close to getting a 62HM195, but have a few of questions:

1. Has anyone found a good stand that costs less than $200 that looks good with the TV?


4. Is it better now to wait for the next generation of models?

Thanks in advance!
Look for a stand made by VTI Mfg. Mine is fabulous. The stand is well made, is perfect for my components and the stand looks great.

Buy a TV and enjoy it!

Just thought all you 1080P owners would like to know: 56hm195 delivered on 9-20-05 with less than 1000 hours, bulb blew today. Sears warranty sends a new bulb in 4 to 6 days.

Have a nice day.

Just thought all you 1080P owners would like to know: 56hm195 delivered on 9-20-05 with less than 1000 hours, bulb blew today. Sears warranty sends a new bulb in 4 to 6 days.

Have a nice day.

Yikes! Sorry to hear you blew your bulb. You stated that Sears sends a new bulb in 4 to 6 days, did Sears say they have it in stock?

What was your bulb setting, low or high?

Any signs it was going to blow or just all of a sudden poof?

Yikes! Sorry to hear you blew your bulb. You stated that Sears sends a new bulb in 4 to 6 days, did Sears say they have it in stock?

What was your bulb setting, low or high?

Any signs it was going to blow or just all of a sudden poof?

The bulb was used at low 100% of the time. That was probably the first adjustment that I made so that I could get the high end (8000 hours). Yes, there was an unmistakeable warning. The set dimmed so much that I could not watch a program without wondering why everything was so dim. Football this weekend was miserable. I would have never bought the set if it looked like this in the showroom. I first noticed it Thursday evening so it progresses very quickly.

Sears did not say whether this was in stock; unfortunately, I ASSUMED that it was during the conversation and I do not believe that the woman entering data had access to that information anyways.

Talking to Toshiba a bit ago, they are saying that the bulb is obviously defective but they have identified reasons for premature failure. Having the TV connected to a instant off power source like a cable box will not allow it to run its cool down cycle. Having the TV next to a heat source is also on the list with turning the TV on and off while it is in quick start mode and cooling down also made the list. Also using high mode is not recommended.

Toshiba is not saying that there is a bad batch of bulbs out there, but I think there is.

The bulb was used at low 100% of the time.
Toshiba is not saying that there is a bad batch of bulbs out there, but I think there is.

So the low setting is BS then..

Currently I get my HD signals from a cheap-o OTA indoor antenna. It does a surprisingly decent job but only picks up small multidirectional signals. Unfortunately, the antenna doesn’t pick up any medium multidirectional signals (which in my case is needed to pickup NBC). Does anyone have any recommendations on an indoor OTA HD antenna? Or, should I forget about OTA and purchase Comcast Cable’s digital package?

I’m also in the market for a DVR. Does anyone have any suggestions on what model to buy? I’m a newbie when it comes to DVR’s so any suggestions (like what to look for or to avoid) would be greatly appreciated.

Currently I get my HD signals from a cheap-o OTA indoor antenna. It does a surprisingly decent job but only picks up small multidirectional signals. Unfortunately, the antenna doesn’t pick up any medium multidirectional signals (which in my case is needed to pickup NBC). Does anyone have any recommendations on an indoor OTA HD antenna? Or, should I forget about OTA and purchase Comcast Cable’s digital package?

I’m also in the market for a DVR. Does anyone have any suggestions on what model to buy? I’m a newbie when it comes to DVR’s so any suggestions (like what to look for or to avoid) would be greatly appreciated.

If you're looking for a DVR and considering cable, why not just get cable and use their DVR? Comcast offers the Motorola 6412. It does quite well and solves all of your problems while adding more HD content than available over the air.

If you're looking for a DVR and considering cable, why not just get cable and use their DVR? Comcast offers the Motorola 6412. It does quite well and solves all of your problems while adding more HD content than available over the air.

Thanks, Toenail. I've thought about your suggestion. The only thing holding me back is that I've heard OTA HD is typically better than HD via cable. Any thoughts?

Same problem here. I pretty sure its not a fan but the HUMMM! is very loud.
Still waiting on a service call. CSR at Toshiba very nice, but living in the sticks just slows the process.

Finally got a service call yesterday. Tech immediately said bad color wheel! Will order and get back with me in a few weeks.

If you're looking for a DVR and considering cable, why not just get cable and use their DVR? Comcast offers the Motorola 6412. It does quite well and solves all of your problems while adding more HD content than available over the air.

To add to the above. You can also be recording two programs on two different channels simultaneously while watching a third recording (not live TV). You can't do that with TIVO.

The only thing holding me back is that I've heard OTA HD is typically better than HD via cable. Any thoughts?

It depends on the cable system and how much they compress the HD signal. With cable HD you'll get more channels (depending on your cable system) like ESPNHD, Discovery Channel, HDNet, HDNet Movies, TNT HD, and the pay channels - HBOHD, ShowtimeHD, CinemaxHD if you subscribe to these pay channels.

Finally got a service call yesterday. Tech immediately said bad color wheel! Will order and get back with me in a few weeks.


I had a service tech come out and he told me the same thing as well. He also mentioned that you have to replace the entire light assembly with the Toshibas and that it was a $2000 (canadian) part. OUCH! I'm glad it's under warranty.

To add to the above. You can also be recording two programs on two different channels simultaneously while watching a third recording (not live TV). You can't do that with TIVO.

The D*TV TiVo records two channels while watching a recording. All dual tuner DVR's be they TiVo or from your cable provider ie: SA 8300HD do this as well I am almost positive. (I happen to have a dual tuner TiVo for Sat and a SA HD8300 for cable and both can do this) perhaps you are referring to stand alone TiVo's?

Thanks, Toenail. I've thought about your suggestion. The only thing holding me back is that I've heard OTA HD is typically better than HD via cable. Any thoughts?Not neccessarily.OTA signal is non compressed.but that doesn't make it better than cable.Type of antenna,distance from each source,unobstructed line of sight,many variables effect OTA signals.Everything equal,OTA would be better,you just have to try and see.

To add to the above. You can also be recording two programs on two different channels simultaneously while watching a third recording (not live TV). You can't do that with TIVO.Or, like me, get the cable card and the DVR (I paid installation but no rental fee for the cable card) and be able to record two channels simultaneously and watch a third channel live via the ANT input. ;)

Yesterday was a perfect example as I recorded Lost and the Pistons game while watching the Michigan/Michigan State game.

Not neccessarily.OTA signal is non compressed.but that doesn't make it better than cable.Type of antenna,distance from each source,unobstructed line of sight,many variables effect OTA signals.Everything equal,OTA would be better,you just have to try and see.
It also depends on what the cable company is doing to the signal. They could be compressing it to hell, or even downresing it to save bandwidth. In that case, I would go with ota.


Ken

Or, like me, get the cable card and the DVR (I paid installation but no rental fee for the cable card) and be able to record two channels simultaneously and watch a third channel live via the ANT input. ;)

Yesterday was a perfect example as I recorded Lost and the Pistons game while watching the Michigan/Michigan State game.

I'll one up ya .... just for fun (dont know if Im going to keep it all, why?) But while deciding ..........

I have a cable HD DVR recording 2 at one time ..... and MCE machine recording 2 each HD OTAs..... An available HD channel to watch on OTA tuner or on my CableCard ... and thinking of a Toshiba Symbio HArd Drive ..... ahhh the choices .... but SOON when I find the perfect combo for me and my "Watching HAbits" ...

I'll get rid of half of it ....(or most of it!, Who needs all of that! )

Jeff

The D*TV TiVo records two channels while watching a recording. All dual tuner DVR's be they TiVo or from your cable provider ie: SA 8300HD do this as well I am almost positive. (I happen to have a dual tuner TiVo for Sat and a SA HD8300 for cable and both can do this) perhaps you are referring to stand alone TiVo's?

You're right bkazepis, I was referring to standalone TiVo's. I didn't know if satellite DVRs had dual tuners or not but you confirmed they do. Thanks for the clairification.

You're right bkazepis, I was referring to standalone TiVo's. I didn't know if satellite DVRs had dual tuners or not but you confirmed they do. Thanks for the clairification.

Thanks to everyone for their feedback - lots of good information has been shared.

Next question: What are the pros & cons of cable card v. STB. For example, channel changing, DVR compatibility, OnDemand, power down, etc. Personally, I hate the possibility of yet another remote but I'm totally committed to the best picture/viewing experience possible.

PS: Happy 250th Birthday, Mozart!

Thanks to everyone for their feedback - lots of good information has been shared.

Next question: What are the pros & cons of cable card v. STB. For example, channel changing, DVR compatibility, OnDemand, power down, etc. Personally, I hate the possibility of yet another remote but I'm totally committed to the best picture/viewing experience possible.

PS: Happy 250th Birthday, Mozart!Here are my thoughts.

As someone who has both I will add my comments. OnDemand and PPV is a waste of money. Most shows you pay for have been out on DVD for a while and I've already watched them. On top of that, accessing the OnDemand menu and the general naviagation is poor and very slow and many times it locks up or freezes. I do make heavy use out of the dual tuner DVR and to me that's the only reason the $10 a month rental is worth it. If my TV had a built in HD with DVR capability I wouldn't bother with the STB. Here are IMHO the pros and cons to STB and cable card at least as how it relates to my Toshiba and it's functionality.

STB

Pros: dual tuner DVR, IPG with two week schedule, detailed program information with the IPG

Cons: no native pass-through mode (at least with my Motorola), inability to sort IPG and remove channels I don't subscribe to, poor analog tuner (I have heard the Phase III boxes are improved),need at least two cables to connect STB (video to TV and audio to the receiver).

Cable Card

Pros: native pass-through mode, ability to sort IPG and remove channels I don't subscribe to (using TVGOS feature of my set), ability to use TV's tuner for analog broadcasts improving PQ, only need audio cable to connect to the receiver.

Cons: TVGOS is limited to eight days of broadcasts, program information is not as detailed as what you get with the IPG, no recording features without purchasing separate DVR ( a $300-$400 expense).

I have a JP1 programmable remote so that is not listed but if someone didn't have a universal remote than a PRO for the cable card and CON for the STB would be needing two remotes as opposed to just the TV's. I know the STB's remote has some programming functionality you could use but features like picture stretching and a few others are difficult if not impossible to program.

If Comcast is listening here are the things you could do to make me want to use the STB more.

1. Provide better analog tuners.
2. Provide native pass-through option for the output. My TV has a better scaler and I don't want to use the STB one or be forced to choose a resolution.
3. Provide me a IPG that I can customize (i.e. remove channels, change the order, etc)
4. If you want me to use OnDemand then you need to make it faster, more easy to navigate forwards and backwards, and eliminate the freezes and lengthy reaction time to remote commands.
5. Provide more recording space on the DVR as 120 GB is not enough with HD programming.

Has anyone had dealings with these websites? These and a couple other web sites currently have very good prices on the 56 and 62 hm195's. Definitely looks like the best 1080p deal out there right now. Just wondering if anyone has had dealings with them positive or negative?

Has anyone had dealings with these websites? These and a couple other web sites currently have very good prices on the 56 and 62 hm195's. Definitely looks like the best 1080p deal out there right now. Just wondering if anyone has had dealings with them positive or negative?

Never dealt with them but I will tell you I bought my 62HM195 from TV Authority and am very satisfied with their customer service. They delivered when they said they would and it was n overall great company to deal with. :)

Has anyone had dealings with these websites? These and a couple other web sites currently have very good prices on the 56 and 62 hm195's. Definitely looks like the best 1080p deal out there right now. Just wondering if anyone has had dealings with them positive or negative?

Do yourself a favor and stay far away from Buydig. One of the WORST online experiences I have ever had.

Do yourself a favor and stay far away from Buydig. One of the WORST online experiences I have ever had.

I bought a GPS from BuyDig for Christmas and it arrived promptly and they had the lowest cost. YMMV.

I just took delivery of my 62" Toshiab 62mx195. I was worried about all the posts on this thread about the incompatabilities when running a MCE machine through a DVI to HDMI cable. I had the delivery guys hook it up and make sure that it was going to work before I signed off on the set.

Well rest assured that the Toshiba MX195 DOES work with Media Center 2005. I had to force TV detection to get The Nvidia drivers to realize the set. Changed my resolution and reconfigured my underscan. All I can say about the picture quality through HDMI and Media Center is breathtaking. The text is amazingly ledgable at such a high resolution. Hopefully this will be useful for people like myself when I was looking for this information.

My Media Center Configuration:

P4 3.0 HT 478
2 GIG pc3200 Ram
2x300 SATA/150 16MEG
MSI Nvidia FX5700
Silverstone LC16 HTPC Case
Asus P4P800SE
Dual NVTV Tuners

Driver Versions:

Latest Intel Chipset Install: 7.2.2.1006
Forcware Decoder ver: 1.02-185
Video Drivers: 77.79
NVTV Drivers: 1.20.45
Microsoft Rollup 2 for Media Center

I just got a 56MX195 and have a PNY Verto (GeForce FX5900XT) connected the
same way. I can't get the overscan/underscan to adjust. I'm running at
1600x900 and the blur is killing me, plus, the desktop size overruns the screen
edges (in ALL rsolutions and even in a POP).

Can you help me? Or can someone? Anyone? PLEASE?

Bruin,

was your purchase a big or small ticket item? What was the problem, could you be a little more specific?

Bruin,

was your purchase a big or small ticket item? What was the problem, could you be a little more specific?

It was a $3000 HDTV. Website said it was in stock. Instead of ordering it on the website I called the 800 number. They confirmed it was in stock and took my info and said it would be shipped on Monday (called on a Saturday). Credit card was charged and received no confirmation that the TV shipped that Monday. For whatever reason, their customer service office was closed the next two days, so I had to wait until that Thursday to call. After being on hold for almost 30 minutes, I finally spoke to someone who told me that the TV actually wasn't in stock, but that they were getting a shipment that Friday. They guaranteed that the TV would be shipped no later than the following Monday. Well, that Monday came and went and still no comfirmation of shipment. Again, the customer service office was closed on Tuesday and Wednesday (who closes their customer service office for two days during the week? Just plain stupid) so I had to wait until Thursday to call. They claimed that their shipment did arrive and the rep couldn't give me an answer as to why I didn't get one shipped to me. He guaranteed me (again with the guarantees) that the TV would ship the next day. It didn't. I called to cancel my order and said I wanted my credit card to be reinbursed for the $3000 charge. They told me that my credit card wasn't charged because the TV never shipped. I told them that is WAS charged and that I had the proof. I faxed them over a copy of my online bank statement and STILL didn't receive a refund. I had to dispute the charge with the bank and it took 3 months to get my money back. I hope that place rots in hell. Is that bad enough for ya?

Has anyone had dealings with these websites? These and a couple other web sites currently have very good prices on the 56 and 62 hm195's. Definitely looks like the best 1080p deal out there right now. Just wondering if anyone has had dealings with them positive or negative?


I have purchased from Buydig with very positive results.

I have purchased from Buydig with very positive results.

Same here .. all went well with BuyDIg buying my 56HM195 this last October

http://www.resellerratings.com/seller2065.html

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to try to get sears to price match. If not then I'm going with buydig. Next question? I was wondering what all you owners thoughts and opinions, if you have a choice what signal should you feed this tv 1080i or 720p? I know that it scales everything to 1080p but do you notice a difference between the two? Also, I plan to get my HD thru comcast is seattle, should I request a specific receiver? I know that should be in the HDTV area but I was already here :D Well here's to hoping sears comes thru, if so I'll have my 56hm195 buy the Superbowl :p

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to try to get sears to price match. If not then I'm going with buydig. Next question? I was wondering what all you owners thoughts and opinions, if you have a choice what signal should you feed this tv 1080i or 720p? I know that it scales everything to 1080p but do you notice a difference between the two? Also, I plan to get my HD thru comcast is seattle, should I request a specific receiver? I know that should be in the HDTV area but I was already here :D Well here's to hoping sears comes thru, if so I'll have my 56hm195 buy the Superbowl :p


According to Toshiba, the preferred scan rate to be fed to the TV is 1080i. If you can have your STB output a fixed resolution, have it output 1080i only. This is also according to a long time Toshiba tech I spoke to here in NY.

I have read through this thread, and am a little concerned by the accounts 1080p problems. My main concern is the ability to use in the near future an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player, which I understand will be able to deliver a 1080p signal. Can anyone give me a definitive thumbs up or down on this set and the ability to display a true 1080p signal from one of the aforementioned players. Thanks guys, looking forward to making a decision and getting with the program!

that tv will not accept a true 1080p signal.it upconverts every signal to 1080p.

I have read through this thread, and am a little concerned by the accounts 1080p problems. My main concern is the ability to use in the near future an HD-DVD or Blu-Ray player, which I understand will be able to deliver a 1080p signal. Can anyone give me a definitive thumbs up or down on this set and the ability to display a true 1080p signal from one of the aforementioned players. Thanks guys, looking forward to making a decision and getting with the program!


From what I have heard none of the upcoming DVD players (HD-DVD or Blue Ray) will deliver 1080p, the only player that will upconvert to 1080p will be an Onkyo that will be around $3,800. Additionally there is no content being shot in 1080p. Seeing as 1080p TV's upconvert everything to 1080p you just need a HD DVD player delivering 1080i to get 1080p.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for all the input. I'm going to try to get sears to price match. If not then I'm going with buydig. Next question? I was wondering what all you owners thoughts and opinions, if you have a choice what signal should you feed this tv 1080i or 720p? I know that it scales everything to 1080p but do you notice a difference between the two? Also, I plan to get my HD thru comcast is seattle, should I request a specific receiver? I know that should be in the HDTV area but I was already here :D Well here's to hoping sears comes thru, if so I'll have my 56hm195 buy the Superbowl :p1. 1080i 2.Motorola 6412 phase III STB/DVR from Comcast works very nicely.

that tv will not accept a true 1080p signal.it upconverts every signal to 1080p.There are no true 1080p signals of any kind,now or in the forseeable future.You miss the intent of 1080p wobulation.The intent is a much smoother PQ.IT WORKS! You can sit MUCH closer to a large screen 1080p display,period.There is no 1080p film or video available.HP has a set that accepts 1080p,it can accept native and compressed 1080p signals through HDMI at 24, 30, or 60 frames per second, if your a gamer,go for it,as games thru a computer are all your gonna see in true 1080p.Bandwidth concerns will pretty much kill any hopes of 1080p broadcasts(60fps).

Thanks guys. I believe that this will be the set that I decide to go with. I just wanted to make sure that I bought into something that isn't going to be trumped immediately after I get it home. Thanks again.

I just wanted to take a moment, and talk about a couple different aspects of picture quality.

I had Timewarner Cable here in Cincinnati...I have both a cable card, and DVR. On HD things were fantastic. SciFi and other non hd signals things were HORRID, unwatchable really.

I finally decided, to get directTV. I really didn't like the PVR after I having used TIVo it just didn't work as well. Well, after 2 seconds of having DirectTV I can honestly say, cable SUCKS. Every channel on directTV looks very watchable in either 4x3 mode, or ht 1. The hr10-250 gives you a LOT of options in terms of picture quality. I can upscale everything, or I can leave it 480p or whatever. Plus I get back tivo. I really missed my tivo.

The picture on cable was often banded, and pixelated and filled with compression artificats. Don't get me wrong the sd satalite isnt awesome like hd but very watchable.

Anyway, I thought I'd throw this out there in case people were debating about which sources look good.

My only issue with Direct is that I don't have a clear line of site to their HD satalite so I can't discovery HD or any of the hd satalite things. Bit of a bummer, but its very worth it for the better picture quality.

I just wanted to take a moment, and talk about a couple different aspects of picture quality.

I had Timewarner Cable here in Cincinnati...I have both a cable card, and DVR. On HD things were fantastic. SciFi and other non hd signals things were HORRID, unwatchable really.

I finally decided, to get directTV. I really didn't like the PVR after I having used TIVo it just didn't work as well. Well, after 2 seconds of having DirectTV I can honestly say, cable SUCKS. Every channel on directTV looks very watchable in either 4x3 mode, or ht 1. The hr10-250 gives you a LOT of options in terms of picture quality. I can upscale everything, or I can leave it 480p or whatever. Plus I get back tivo. I really missed my tivo.

The picture on cable was often banded, and pixelated and filled with compression artificats. Don't get me wrong the sd satalite isnt awesome like hd but very watchable.

Anyway, I thought I'd throw this out there in case people were debating about which sources look good.

My only issue with Direct is that I don't have a clear line of site to their HD satalite so I can't discovery HD or any of the hd satalite things. Bit of a bummer, but its very worth it for the better picture quality.

On most newer HD cable STB's you can choose fixed resolution to have it only output 1080i to your TV. In fact thats what Toshiba recommends as the best source material for its 195 series TV's.

TiVo does have a better GUI and funtionality than most cable DVR's too bad D*TV has severed their relationship with TiVo, you will no longer be able to get it once the remaining stock is depleted. They have their own proprietary DVR now and from what I hear it has many issues.

TiVo is now talking to many cable companies now so you will probably be seeing it in cable very soon.

All that to say (and to keep me on the subj of this forum) feed the TV 1080i always and you should realize the best PQ.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dracus
I just wanted to take a moment, and talk about a couple different aspects of picture quality.
I had Timewarner Cable here in Cincinnati...I have both a cable card, and DVR. On HD things were fantastic. SciFi and other non hd signals things were HORRID, unwatchable really.

I finally decided, to get directTV. I really didn't like the PVR after I having used TIVo it just didn't work as well. Well, after 2 seconds of having DirectTV I can honestly say, cable SUCKS. Every channel on directTV looks very watchable in either 4x3 mode, or ht 1. The hr10-250 gives you a LOT of options in terms of picture quality. I can upscale everything, or I can leave it 480p or whatever. Plus I get back tivo. I really missed my tivo.

The picture on cable was often banded, and pixelated and filled with compression artificats. Don't get me wrong the sd satalite isnt awesome like hd but very watchable.

Anyway, I thought I'd throw this out there in case people were debating about which sources look good.
My only issue with Direct is that I don't have a clear line of site to their HD satalite so I can't discovery HD or any of the hd satalite things. Bit of a bummer, but its very worth it for the better picture quality. On most newer HD cable STB's you can choose fixed resolution to have it only output 1080i to your TV. In fact thats what Toshiba recommends as the best source material for its 195 series TV's.

TiVo does have a better GUI and funtionality than most cable DVR's too bad D*TV has severed their relationship with TiVo, you will no longer be able to get it once the remaining stock is depleted. They have their own proprietary DVR now and from what I hear it has many issues.

TiVo is now talking to many cable companies now so you will probably be seeing it in cable very soon.

All that to say (and to keep me on the subj of this forum) feed the TV 1080i always and you should realize the best PQ.bkazepis..... Missing the point?

Quote:
bkazepis..... Missing the point?

Dont think so..

All that to say (and to keep me on the subj of this forum) feed the TV 1080i always and you should realize the best PQ.

Dont think so..

All that to say (and to keep me on the subj of this forum) feed the TV 1080i always and you should realize the best PQ.Hes comparing cable with sat. feed.You are missing his entire post.

Hes comparing cable with sat. feed.You are missing his entire post.


Exactly, to which I replied if you feed it 1080i you will have a great picture no matter what the source as this is what Toshiba suggests you use as a source resolution.

Whats your deal anyway??? If youd like to correct my post or give a differing opinion please do so.

I can tell you that feeding the TV 1080i from a 8300HD resulted in a horible picture from the non digital channel. I found that at least with TW that having the TV upgrade the picture internally was better.

Now with directTV it seems not to make much diference one way or the other. The TV does scale the picture a TAD better than the tivo but getting the format right on the TV is a bit tricker.

This is all with HDMI of course.

Who Still Loves Their Toshibas??

I do.. :) Pick me pick me

Exactly, to which I replied if you feed it 1080i you will have a great picture no matter what the source as this is what Toshiba suggests you use as a source resolution.

Whats your deal anyway??? If youd like to correct my post or give a differing opinion please do so.My deal?You say
if he feeds it 1080i its a great picture.NOT IF ITS A FLAWED INPUT>BASIS OF HIS POST.Can
you not understand?

I can tell you that feeding the TV 1080i from a 8300HD resulted in a horible picture from the non digital channel. I found that at least with TW that having the TV upgrade the picture internally was better.

Now with directTV it seems not to make much diference one way or the other. The TV does scale the picture a TAD better than the tivo but getting the format right on the TV is a bit tricker.

This is all with HDMI of course.

I have a 8300HD as well...pic is great

My deal?You say
if he feeds it 1080i its a great picture.NOT IF ITS A FLAWED INPUT>BASIS OF HIS POST.Can
you not understand?


Your choice of words and tone in replys are continuously belligerent. I will not dignify your responses with a response from now on.

Have a nice day.

1) Went to Toshiba site, but could not find 62HM195 or 62HX195 manuals. Anyone know where I cam download them?

2) I have a coffee table that is 54-inches wide. Obviously the 62HM195 will over hang by a few inches. Could someone measure the OUTSIDE spacing of the rubber feet under the 62HM195?

3) The website pix are not that useful. What is the color of the HM case?

4) What color is the HM bezel?

5) Is HM bezel reflective?

6) What is the color of the MX case?

7) Is the MX piano black bezel glossy and refelective?

8) Ignoring the terminology and marketing claims -- which screen has the least reflections: HM or MX?

1) Went to Toshiba site, but could not find 62HM195 or 62HX195 manuals. Anyone know where I cam download them?

2) I have a coffee table that is 54-inches wide. Obviously the 62HM195 will over hang by a few inches. Could someone measure the OUTSIDE spacing of the rubber feet under the 62HM195?

3) The website pix are not that useful. What is the color of the HM case?

4) What color is the HM bezel?

5) Is HM bezel reflective?

6) What is the color of the MX case?

7) Is the MX piano black bezel glossy and refelective?

8) Ignoring the terminology and marketing claims -- which screen has the least reflections: HM or MX?

HM195 Manual :
akamaipix+crutchfield+com/Manuals/052/05256HM195.PDF

MX195 Manual:
pages+videotron+com/dtv/566272MX195.pdf

HM case is silver with matte dark grey bezel.

MX Case is silver with glossy metallic black bezel. Not too much reflective though.

I don't think there is any difference in the screen reflections between HM and MX.

Who Still Loves Their Toshibas??

It has nothing to do with loving the set. I truly do. BUT, that doesnt change that fact that there are issues that are potentially troubling. Alas we should love but not love blindly....

what issues are u talking about?

what issues are u talking about?

The fact that some people are experiencing premature bulb failure and the supply is limited...

The fact that some people are experiencing premature bulb failure and the supply is limited...

Hopefully the problem is with the bulbs themselves. If it turns out to be a ballast or power supply issue they're probably going to have to recall the light engines. The guts of the TV basically come in two parts: light engine, signal processing. When a minor fan on my set went bad, they replaced the entire light engine as opposed to just the fan itself.

Hopefully the problem is with the bulbs themselves. If it turns out to be a ballast or power supply issue they're probably going to have to recall the light engines. The guts of the TV basically come in two parts: light engine, signal processing. When a minor fan on my set went bad, they replaced the entire light engine as opposed to just the fan itself.

Which model do you have?

56mx195

After a month long episode with samsung and my local retailer, I traded a sammy hlr6168 for a Toshiba 62mx195. There is absolutely NO comparision betwee the two. The Tos. absolutely smokes the sammy. I now have no lag issues, and less "pixelization" (dithering?) while watching action scenes. The silkscreen effect is also far, far less on this unit.

I now beleive that those on the samsung bandwagon have simply not explored the MX series as an option. This thing even plays my pictures and mp3's from my computer throught a simple cat5 cable. And it's less than the sammy too. Major Kudos to the crew at Toshiba for a great product.

After a month long episode with samsung and my local retailer, I traded a sammy hlr6168 for a Toshiba 62mx195. There is absolutely NO comparision betwee the two. The Tos. absolutely smokes the sammy. I now have no lag issues, and less "pixelization" (dithering?) while watching action scenes. The silkscreen effect is also far, far less on this unit.

I now beleive that those on the samsung bandwagon have simply not explored the MX series as an option. This thing even plays my pictures and mp3's from my computer throught a simple cat5 cable. And it's less than the sammy too. Major Kudos to the crew at Toshiba for a great product.

Great to hear you are enjoying your Toshiba. Thankfully I didnt do the same thing you did, I almost bought the Samsung but went with the Toshiba and am quite happy.

i am about to get the 72hm195.i think the toshibas are the best DLP's out there right now.best bang for your buck.i comapred the the sony SXRD to tosh and the pic quality is so close.the tosh was sharper.and $3400 for the 72" is a price u can't beat.

I saw this in HHgregg. It is the toshiba dlp cinema series 52HMX95 and had a good picture. Can anyone comment on its reliability? Any problems that anyone knows of? Have you read other links where it reports problems with these sets? Also, the salesperson told me this set was 1080P and I havent seen that on any info. and this its only 720P. If I am correct, do they make a 1080P set in 52"?

i am about to get the 72hm195.i think the toshibas are the best DLP's out there right now.best bang for your buck.i comapred the the sony SXRD to tosh and the pic quality is so close.the tosh was sharper.and $3400 for the 72" is a price u can't beat.


The Sony SXRD has a great pic as well but when you factor in the additional cost Toshiba wins hands down.

I saw this in HHgregg. It is the toshiba dlp cinema series 52HMX95 and had a good picture. Can anyone comment on its reliability? Any problems that anyone knows of? Have you read other links where it reports problems with these sets? Also, the salesperson told me this set was 1080P and I havent seen that on any info. and this its only 720P. If I am correct, do they make a 1080P set in 52"?

The only sets of the current Toshiba lineup that are 1080p are the 195 suffix TV's. Anything else isnt 1080p no matter what a sales person tells you. I believe the smallest 195 set is the 56 inch. If the reason you are seeking a 52 inch is you have space constraints, you may be able to get the 56 Toshiba as unlike many TV's the speakers are bottom mounted instead of side mounted to they take up less horizontal space.

As for problems with the sets, there have been some issues with premature bulb failure and a shortage of bulbs because of it, but as a percentage I think it is not that high. Additionally, consumer reports has stated that Toshibas require the least amount of repairs in the first year when compared to other TV's so that has to be good. :D

Wondering if someone can tell me if they have had any direct side-by-side experience between the 72mx195 and the Mits WD73827? I am going to pull the trigger on one of these but I find myself leaning one way or the other based on the different threads. I don't have anyone in town that has them side-by-side for me to do some comparisons.

Hello all. Can anyone tell me the measurement from the base of the set to the viewable screen area? In other words, that area below the screen with the speakers and front inputs, how many inches from the base of the TV is it until you get to the bottom of the viewable screen? I estimate about 6 inches. Can anyone who owns this set please confirm. Thanks in advance for you responses.

Your choice of words and tone in replys are continuously belligerent. I will not dignify your responses with a response from now on.

Have a nice day.

fyi- you can easily add this bozo to your ignore list and then you don't have to deal with his posts :)

fyi- you can easily add this bozo to your ignore list and then you don't have to deal with his posts :)


Thanks, will do. :)

Well after 3 months of a great picture my lamp blew the sucky thing about it was that it happemed 30 minutes before super bowl kick off :mad: .I have called Toshiba and of course there out of them and it going to take posssible 10 or more days before I will have new one from them.However I did find somebody that has them in stock and I was able to get one and should have it by Thursday.This really sucks however that I can find them myself and of course shell out more money for it but toshiba has to wait for them so that they can honor there warranty.I really hope that the new ones I get last more than 3 months!!!!!I cant see spending and extra 1200 dollars at 400 a piece with shipping and tax per year just to watch tv thats crazy!!!!If this does happen every 3 months this Tv will be for sale pretty darn fast.

Well after 3 months of a great picture my lamp blew the sucky thing about it was that it happemed 30 minutes before super bowl kick off :mad: .I have called Toshiba and of course there out of them and it going to take posssible 10 or more days before I will have new one from them.However I did find somebody that has them in stock and I was able to get one and should have it by Thursday.This really sucks however that I can find them myself and of course shell out more money for it but toshiba has to wait for them so that they can honor there warranty.I really hope that the new ones I get last more than 3 months!!!!!I cant see spending and extra 1200 dollars at 400 a piece with shipping and tax per year just to watch tv thats crazy!!!!If this does happen every 3 months this Tv will be for sale pretty darn fast.

Sorry to hear your bulb blew. You are 100% correct, I have said many times that they need to stop distribution through any other channels but their own until the supply situation is better.

What model TV do you have?

I have the 62mx195 it has a GREAT picture and I love the TV and would hate to get rid of it but if they cant figure out this bulb thing I am going to have to.I cant see spending all that money on a TV and then have to replace lamps every 3 months thats nuts.

Well after 3 months of a great picture my lamp blew the sucky thing about it was that it happemed 30 minutes before super bowl kick off :mad: .I have called Toshiba and of course there out of them and it going to take posssible 10 or more days before I will have new one from them.However I did find somebody that has them in stock and I was able to get one and should have it by Thursday.This really sucks however that I can find them myself and of course shell out more money for it but toshiba has to wait for them so that they can honor there warranty.I really hope that the new ones I get last more than 3 months!!!!!I cant see spending and extra 1200 dollars at 400 a piece with shipping and tax per year just to watch tv thats crazy!!!!If this does happen every 3 months this Tv will be for sale pretty darn fast.

That's unbelievable as my lamp blew yesterday too. I have also had the TV for only three months. I was on hold for almost an hour today trying to get through to customer service. I finally gave up because I had to get to work. I was hoping I would be able to get a new lamp sooner than that as this is the only TV I have, and with what I pay each month for digital cable, I'm now losing a lot of money each day that goes by with no TV. I'm wondering if I were to buy a new lamp online that Toshiba would just reimburse me for the purchase if I sent them a copy of the receipt? Probably not. That's just too convenient and logical. Just knowing that I can have a new lamp in my house in two days over what could be a three week wait with Toshiba just annoys me to no end. I'm with you. If the new lamp doesn't make it through even one year of use, the TV's as good as gone.

That's unbelievable as my lamp blew yesterday too. I have also had the TV for only three months. I was on hold for almost an hour today trying to get through to customer service. I finally gave up because I had to get to work. I was hoping I would be able to get a new lamp sooner than that as this is the only TV I have, and with what I pay each month for digital cable, I'm now losing a lot of money each day that goes by with no TV. I'm wondering if I were to buy a new lamp online that Toshiba would just reimburse me for the purchase if I sent them a copy of the receipt? Probably not. That's just too convenient and logical. Just knowing that I can have a new lamp in my house in two days over what could be a three week wait with Toshiba just annoys me to no end. I'm with you. If the new lamp doesn't make it through even one year of use, the TV's as good as gone.

Just buy an new lamp and stick it in the TV. When Toshiba sends you a new lamp, send the broken one back and stick that one in storage as a spare. You would have to buy a new lamp at some point, might as well have your TV working now.

Just buy an new lamp and stick it in the TV. When Toshiba sends you a new lamp, send the broken one back and stick that one in storage as a spare. You would have to buy a new lamp at some point, might as well have your TV working now.

I concur. When you think about it, you have spare bulbs for lamps etc in your house, we have a bulb in our TV, we should have a spare on hand...the early failure is still a concern but as the saying goes "in for a penny, in for a pound". ;)

The only problem is that spare light bulbs cost what 1.00 dollar a spare lamp cost 400 with tax and shipping.So if you get one for spare and say every 3 months it blows after your warranty expires you are going to have spend 400 every 3 months thats SUCKS!!!!!1200 dollars a year for lamps is just not acceptable to me at all and the lamp life needs to be fixed.Mine blew with under 1000 hours of time on it in there manual and every where on the ineternet it says you should get a least 2000 hours but there manuals say more than that with it set to low power which mine was.

Like I said in 3 months if it blows again I will sell the set I hate to but it just doesnt make sense keeping it if it blows every 3months.

I have been seriously leaning towards the 72MX195 over the Mits 73827, but this bulb thing has me bothered now.

It would interesting to see a poll on bulb life for Toshiba users to get a feel for where the majority of people's bulb lifes sit...at least for those who are posting under this thread.

I have been seriously leaning towards the 72MX195 over the Mits 73827, but this bulb thing has me bothered now.

It would interesting to see a poll on bulb life for Toshiba users to get a feel for where the majority of people's bulb lifes sit...at least for those who are posting under this thread.I started one a while back but it hasn't been posted to recently.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=611627

The only problem is that spare light bulbs cost what 1.00 dollar a spare lamp cost 400 with tax and shipping.

Exactly. I don't know about you guys, but my last name ain't Trump. I don't just have $400 lying around to drop on spare lamps. My lamp lasted 450 hours. 450 HOURS!!!!!! Unacceptable. Like nbdyspl said, if this replacement lamp doesn't last beyond a few months, the TV's outta here.

Exactly. I don't know about you guys, but my last name ain't Trump. I don't just have $400 lying around to drop on spare lamps. My lamp lasted 450 hours. 450 HOURS!!!!!! Unacceptable. Like nbdyspl said, if this replacement lamp doesn't last beyond a few months, the TV's outta here.

Toshiba keeps saying that as a percentage, the number of bulbs failing is very low. Are there any people on here that have had thier sets for over 6 months with HEAVY family usage and are not having any issues?? We need to get an understanding of this to see if Tosh is BS'ing or not....granted a forum has more unhappy people than happy people on it by its very nature but we should get an idea. I for one have only had my TV since Dec 29th, so far so good, but who knows?

As far as Toshiba saying the number a bulbs failing is a small percentage I can tell you that is BS without out doubt.How you may ask simple if it was so small the demand for these bulbs would be low causing the price to be low.Also since the demand would be low it would to be real easy to get a replacement look around most places dont even have them and the ones that do are usually gone within a week or two.Even Toshiba themselves say they dont have any and wont have any for at least 10 days.

So by just using the laws of supply and demand It seems to me that the demand is great that is why there is no supply.Again by using supply and demand if the number of bulbs failing is low like they say supply should be great and prices low but its not.Also how come when I called the CSR said I was the 10th person that day to have had this happen to and this was at 9am?


My advice to anyone who buys this tv is this the TV has one of the best pictures that I have seen and I love it but if the bulbs fail this often and they have to be replaced without even a 1000 hours on them GET the extended warranty on the bulbs for sure!!!!

As far as Toshiba saying the number a bulbs failing is a small percentage I can tell you that is BS without out doubt.How you may ask simple if it was so small the demand for these bulbs would be low causing the price to be low.Also since the demand would be low it would to be real easy to get a replacement look around most places dont even have them and the ones that do are usually gone within a week or two.Even Toshiba themselves say they dont have any and wont have any for at least 10 days.

So by just using the laws of supply and demand It seems to me that the demand is great that is why there is no supply.Again by using supply and demand if the number of bulbs failing is low like they say supply should be great and prices low but its not.Also how come when I called the CSR said I was the 10th person that day to have had this happen to and this was at 9am?


My advice to anyone who buys this tv is this the TV has one of the best pictures that I have seen and I love it but if the bulbs fail this often and they have to be replaced without even a 1000 hours on them GET the extended warranty on the bulbs for sure!!!!

One has to ask...they tell everyone ten days....are they making 10 bulbs a day or what?? Something just doesnt add up... :rolleyes:

As far as Toshiba saying the number a bulbs failing is a small percentage I can tell you that is BS without out doubt.How you may ask simple if it was so small the demand for these bulbs would be low causing the price to be low.Also since the demand would be low it would to be real easy to get a replacement look around most places dont even have them and the ones that do are usually gone within a week or two.Even Toshiba themselves say they dont have any and wont have any for at least 10 days.



Well, something is definitely screwy here because when I called Toshiba on Tuesday, they said I would have the new bulb on Friday. I was told that the bulb would be shipped that day. I asked the rep if he was sure about this and he said yes. If it doesn't come on Friday I will be very upset.

I hope you do get yours on Friday if you do please post here and let me know.If you do I will call them and see where is mine.

I hope you do get yours on Friday if you do please post here and let me know.If you do I will call them and see where is mine.They should be shipped 2nd day FedEx so you should be able to have Toshiba give you a tracking number so you can make sure it will arrive on time.

I got my 72MX195 yesterday, I am VERY impressed. However the bulb thing makes me nervous, so I got a 4yr warranty for $200. Hopefully withing my 4 years of warranty Toshiba gets this bulb thing straightend out.

Ok I just got off the phone with the CSR at Toshiba which by the way they are very helpful.Ok he stated that as far as he can tell that the order is processed and is ready to be shipped but nothing more than that no tracking number yet because it hasnt actually shipped out.He did say to call back on Friday and see if its shipped out .

I just hope once I do get a replacement that it last a little longer than 3 months.Kdog how long has your lasted for and have you had to replace one yet?

I got my 72MX195 yesterday, I am VERY impressed. However the bulb thing makes me nervous, so I got a 4yr warranty for $200. Hopefully withing my 4 years of warranty Toshiba gets this bulb thing straightend out.

You where very smart to get that extended warrnty I hope it was for lamp replacement and not for the Tv being broke usually they have 2 seperate ones just be sure everything is covered 100 percent including lamp replacement.

I made sure that the bulbs were covered, that was my main concern. I have a question tho, did any of the TV's which bulb failed early have any type of voltage regulation? I have the Monster AVS 2000 and HTS 7000 and I am praying that stable clean power will extend my lamp life a little more.

... if it was so small the demand for these bulbs would be low causing the price to be low. Also since the demand would be low it would to be real easy to get a replacement ...

Sometimes a statement like this is even true, but not always. I find with electronics that when it comes to replacement parts one often encounters the "build the Jeep by buying parts one-at-a-time" effect. The assembled Jeep turns out to cost about the came as a small submarine.

If you're too young to remember this WW2 chestnut, look it up.

Hello all. Can anyone tell me the measurement from the base of the set to the viewable screen area? In other words, that area below the screen with the speakers and front inputs, how many inches from the base of the TV is it until you get to the bottom of the viewable screen? I estimate about 6 inches. Can anyone who owns this set please confirm. Thanks in advance for you responses.


Can anyone tell me this measurment for the 62hm195? Please! It would be greatly appreciated.

Does anyone know if Tosh or its suppliers have changed the design of the D95-LMP lamp to avoid the problems the're having?

Does anyone know if Tosh or its suppliers have changed the design of the D95-LMP lamp to avoid the problems the're having?

The lamp in my 56HM195 blew last night after about 2-300 hours. Just got off the phone with the (very kind and helpful) Toshiba service rep.

The bad new is they only get a new load of lamps in 7-10 days which means it could be close to two weeks before I have a replacement.

The good news is that, according to the rep, the new lamps are a different "version" that should last a lot longer. Also, they send FedEx stickers along for the old lamps to be returned so that they can study them and maybe learn what went wrong.

It must be very expensive for Toshiba to replace all those lamps and I am sure they are as eager as we all are to solve that problem. Sure, I can follow the theory that "they knowlingly shipped a bad product in order to milk customers on lamp replacements" but I think this must be more expensive for them in cost as well as reputation. Even if they did/do have a plan for lamps to be the new cash cow (HP ink cartridges come to mind) I cannot imagine that they deliberately designed lamps to only last a couple months.

But more to the point of your question: The new lamps are supposedly a different version already. Thus I would be careful ordering spare lamps from other sources right now as you might get one of the old lamps.

Also, I can entertain the thought that maybe Toshiba decided to clear out TVs with the old lamps, knowing that many of them would have to be replaced in a few months -- and that is the reason for those great deals on the 195-models compared to other 1080p TVs. I bought my TV in November for $2,374 with free shipping and I even see prices $100 less by now.

Just after the lamp blew, I was thinking what other TV would I want now if I had a chance to buy anew. And despite its issues (lack of 1080p input, PC connectivity etc) I would probably still buy this Toshiba for it's excellent PQ and great price -- although I might go for the MX model instead.

Just a thought for those currently in the market considering a Toshiba TV.

After just three months the lamp in my 46HM95 Toshiba DLP blew yesterday, Feb 8. The picture had started to get darker over the past few days even when I switched to full power and turned up the brightness. As I average only about two hours per day of TV viewing during the week and maybe four hours per day on weekends, I've only gotten about 220 hours out of the bulb. I had the usual long wait when I called Toshiba CS this morning and, of course, this particular lamp is on back order. "It will ship in 10 to 15 BUSINESS days" I was told, by FedEx. I told her that I now own the most expensive radio I ever bought. Either she didn't see the joke or she has heard it before. How does this experience compare with other users? :(

I made sure that the bulbs were covered, that was my main concern. I have a question tho, did any of the TV's which bulb failed early have any type of voltage regulation? I have the Monster AVS 2000 and HTS 7000 and I am praying that stable clean power will extend my lamp life a little more.

I had a power regulator on mine from day one but the lamp blew after just 3 months and less than 250 hours of use. :(

....and you can be sure I'll get the lamp warranty. A Supplier Which Can Not Be Named, but which sounds much like hideflifestyle (anybody have any experience with these guys?) has a Repairmaster 3-year, 2 lamp max warranty for like $85.

Between that and an extra warranty year on an Amex card, I figure I'm in good shape. By that time, either we will have reached the Age of the Shining Dream, when these lamps are on eBay for $49.99, or Toshiba will be slapped with a class action lawsuit.

Either that, or Repairmaster will be broke and out of business (which is usually the case when I buy an extended warranty.)

Kdog how long has your lasted for and have you had to replace one yet?My original failed at 3000 hours and nine months of usage. My replacement has been in since the beginning of December.

My original failed at 3000 hours and nine months of usage. My replacement has been in since the beginning of December.

Kdog you sure do use yours a lot that seems to be at least 10 hours a day everyday for nine months.Do you use it for a computer monitor as well or watch tv on it ?

Kdog you sure do use yours a lot that seems to be at least 10 hours a day everyday for nine months.Do you use it for a computer monitor as well or watch tv on it ?

I dont know about kdog, but I have my office in my house. I used to have the TV on in the background, usually tuned to Fox News with no sound, while going about my work. This was on a 5 year old Sony rear projection CRT HDTV. Now with this new TV and potential bulb problems I am afraid to do the same...its a shame... :(

Kdog you sure do use yours a lot that seems to be at least 10 hours a day everyday for nine months.Do you use it for a computer monitor as well or watch tv on it ?No, but with two kids the TV gets turned on about 3:00 PM and I watch it at night so it usually is on until 2:00 AM.

No, but with two kids the TV gets turned on about 3:00 PM and I watch it at night so it usually is on until 2:00 AM.

That's very interesting, It seem like you watch your TV more than the average person, but your bulb lasted longer than average...........Hmmmmmm

That's very interesting, It seem like you watch your TV more than the average person, but your bulb lasted longer than average...........Hmmmmmm

Anything to do with the number of heat cycles the filament is seeing? He cycles his on/off once per day. I suspect others may cycle on/off 3-5 times per day. Doesn't the number heat cycles affect filament life?

I've never heard a definitive answer about what lamp technology is being used here. Everyone talks about filaments, which would indicate that the lamps are some uber-fancy halogen or something, but the Toshiba manual refers to the lamp as a "mercury lamp," which to me indicates that it's some kind of HID (High Intensity Discharge) lamp.

Also, it doesn't seem in keeping with filament lamps that they would "dim" before burnout - that sounds more like an HID lamp to me.

Does anybody know for sure?

------------------------------after further research--------------------------------

They are indeed HID lamps, per

http://www.tvtechnology.com/features/Tech-Corner/f_technology_corner-07.07.04.shtml

The emergence of backlit, liquid crystal microdisplay-based projection engines has served to make these projection systems more practical for a home living room environment, enabling them to produce satisfyingly bright pictures. The LCD projection engine's high performance is in no small part due to the use of the ultrahigh-pressure (UHP) mercury lamp as a light source.

Large projectors, including both film projectors and DLP micromirror projectors used in cinema theaters, utilize xenon lamps. Xenon is one of the inert gases, known to early chemists as the "noble gases," whose electron orbital shells are filled with electrons, making them chemically inactive. They can, however, be excited into luminescence by passing an electrical current through them.

Xenon lamps, like mercury lamps, are arc lamps, in which an electrical current is used to strike an arc across a gap between electrodes in a gaseous medium. A form of xenon lamp is used for automobile headlights: we have all seen those cold, blue-looking, beaming headlights on expensive luxury cars. Xenon lamps have the advantage of emitting a broad spectrum of light with a color temperature near 6500K, the precise color temperature specified for the white point of professional video monitors. They have the disadvantage that their operation requires considerable control circuitry.

UHP lamps are also arc lamps, the arc being struck through an atmosphere of mercury vapor. They are, in fact, highly sophisticated fluorescent lights.
and some hints about increasing lamp life.....


http://audiokarma.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-26747.html


On the projection-type DLP and LCD sets, however, the lamp is a xenon-halide lamp, of the projection variety, usually customer-replaceable,and is VERY expensive to replace(200-600.00). It is SUPPOSED to last from 3,000 to 8,000 hours, or so, BUT, that is WHEN THE SET IS ON, AND LEFT ON, FOR SIX HOURS A DAY, AND GIVEN A PROPER 2 TO THREE-MINUTE COOLDOWN, WHEN TURNED OFF, BEFORE REMOVING POWER.

Two things have been noted to SERIOUSLY reduce the life of these lamps: turnng the set on, then back off, without letting the lamp come up to full temperature(5 minutes or so), and also multiple short-cycles(where the set is turned on and off many times in a 6-hour period.)

The second , most common reason for early failure of these vapor lamps is : removing power from the set, such as turning off by a cable box, WITHOUT THE COOLDOWN PERIOD, OF 2 OR 3 MINUTES. These sets must NOT be turned on and off by a cable box, they MUST have power on them , for at least three minutes AFTER the set is turned off, to cool the xenon lamp down. otherwise, -- short lamp life.

I've never heard a definitive answer about what lamp technology is being used here. Everyone talks about filaments, which would indicate that the lamps are some uber-fancy halogen or something, but the Toshiba manual refers to the lamp as a "mercury lamp," which to me indicates that it's some kind of HID (High Intensity Discharge) lamp.

Also, it doesn't seem in keeping with filament lamps that they would "dim" before burnout - that sounds more like an HID lamp to me.

Does anybody know for sure?

If thats the case (that they are HID) which I think it is...then somethings up with the design or manufacturing...I have HID headlights on my Audi as do many other cars...nothing is more hostile an environment than the temp cycles and vibration a cars headlight goes through...why do these last loooong and our TV bulbs dont?? Who knows?? :confused:

If thats the case (that they are HID) which I think it is...then somethings up with the design or manufacturing...I have HID headlights on my Audi as do many other cars...nothing is more hostile an environment than the temp cycles and vibration a cars headlight goes through...why do these last loooong and our TV bulbs dont?? Who knows?? :confused:

Now, I'm just guessing here, but if the headlights go off on some rich lawyer's Mercedes and he hits a cow at 85 mph, and his daughter sprains her wrist, you know he's going to own a significant part of Daimler-Chrysler before it's all over.

On the other hand, if your lamp burns out 20 minutes before the Miss String Bikini USA contest, all you're gonna do is call Toshiba and give them $400 for a new lamp.

;)

Now, I'm just guessing here, but if the headlights go off on some rich lawyer's Mercedes and he hits a cow at 85 mph, and his daughter sprains her wrist, you know he's going to own a significant part of Daimler-Chrysler before it's all over.

On the other hand, if your lamp burns out 20 minutes before the Miss String Bikini USA contest, all you're gonna do is call Toshiba and give them $400 for a new lamp.
;)
Excellent! Funniest post I read in a while. Thanks :-)

The new bulb arrived today and works great. When I turned it on, I must admit that it took my breath away. I forgot in the last 3 weeks how great that picture really was. Gee, do I hope I got that I got one of those redesigned bulbs that last for a reasonable amount of time.

I'm curious about the problem with the bulb. Are the problems also present in the MX series or are they of a different design?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by nbdyspl
Kdog you sure do use yours a lot that seems to be at least 10 hours a day everyday for nine months.Do you use it for a computer monitor as well or watch tv on it ?

I dont know about kdog, but I have my office in my house. I used to have the TV on in the background, usually tuned to Fox News with no sound, while going about my work. This was on a 5 year old Sony rear projection CRT HDTV. Now with this new TV and potential bulb problems I am afraid to do the same...its a shame... :(?

I've never heard a definitive answer about what lamp technology is being used here. Everyone talks about filaments, which would indicate that the lamps are some uber-fancy halogen or something, but the Toshiba manual refers to the lamp as a "mercury lamp," which to me indicates that it's some kind of HID (High Intensity Discharge) lamp.

Also, it doesn't seem in keeping with filament lamps that they would "dim" before burnout - that sounds more like an HID lamp to me.

Does anybody know for sure?

------------------------------after further research--------------------------------

They are indeed HID lamps, per

http://www.tvtechnology.com/features/Tech-Corner/f_technology_corner-07.07.04.shtml

The emergence of backlit, liquid crystal microdisplay-based projection engines has served to make these projection systems more practical for a home living room environment, enabling them to produce satisfyingly bright pictures. The LCD projection engine's high performance is in no small part due to the use of the ultrahigh-pressure (UHP) mercury lamp as a light source.

Large projectors, including both film projectors and DLP micromirror projectors used in cinema theaters, utilize xenon lamps. Xenon is one of the inert gases, known to early chemists as the "noble gases," whose electron orbital shells are filled with electrons, making them chemically inactive. They can, however, be excited into luminescence by passing an electrical current through them.

Xenon lamps, like mercury lamps, are arc lamps, in which an electrical current is used to strike an arc across a gap between electrodes in a gaseous medium. A form of xenon lamp is used for automobile headlights: we have all seen those cold, blue-looking, beaming headlights on expensive luxury cars. Xenon lamps have the advantage of emitting a broad spectrum of light with a color temperature near 6500K, the precise color temperature specified for the white point of professional video monitors. They have the disadvantage that their operation requires considerable control circuitry.

UHP lamps are also arc lamps, the arc being struck through an atmosphere of mercury vapor. They are, in fact, highly sophisticated fluorescent lights.
and some hints about increasing lamp life.....


http://audiokarma.org/forums/archive/index.php/t-26747.html


On the projection-type DLP and LCD sets, however, the lamp is a xenon-halide lamp, of the projection variety, usually customer-replaceable,and is VERY expensive to replace(200-600.00). It is SUPPOSED to last from 3,000 to 8,000 hours, or so, BUT, that is WHEN THE SET IS ON, AND LEFT ON, FOR SIX HOURS A DAY, AND GIVEN A PROPER 2 TO THREE-MINUTE COOLDOWN, WHEN TURNED OFF, BEFORE REMOVING POWER.

Two things have been noted to SERIOUSLY reduce the life of these lamps: turnng the set on, then back off, without letting the lamp come up to full temperature(5 minutes or so), and also multiple short-cycles(where the set is turned on and off many times in a 6-hour period.)

The second , most common reason for early failure of these vapor lamps is : removing power from the set, such as turning off by a cable box, WITHOUT THE COOLDOWN PERIOD, OF 2 OR 3 MINUTES. These sets must NOT be turned on and off by a cable box, they MUST have power on them , for at least three minutes AFTER the set is turned off, to cool the xenon lamp down. otherwise, -- short lamp life. Very good post.

Now, I'm just guessing here, but if the headlights go off on some rich lawyer's Mercedes and he hits a cow at 85 mph, and his daughter sprains her wrist, you know he's going to own a significant part of Daimler-Chrysler before it's all over.

On the other hand, if your lamp burns out 20 minutes before the Miss String Bikini USA contest, all you're gonna do is call Toshiba and give them $400 for a new lamp.

;)
Fortunately,all Tosh 1080p sets are in warranty until at least mid-Aug. of '06.

I called TCS and,just as reported earlier,they have in fact an "all new and improved" bulb for the 195 series displays.I gave the rep. my phone # and she looked up my file(new LE first week).I told her I had no problems with the bulb right now,just concerned.She said the supplier of old bulbs was in Japan, was the reason for backorder problems. Phone rang and I didn't get a chance to ask where the new ones come from.

I called TCS and,just as reported earlier,they have in fact an "all new and improved" bulb for the 195 series displays.I gave the rep. my phone # and she looked up my file(new LE first week).I told her I had no problems with the bulb right now,just concerned.She said the supplier of old bulbs was in Japan, was the reason for backorder problems. Phone rang and I didn't get a chance to ask where the new ones come from.

I wonder if the extra bulb I paid near $400.00 for is the old version and if it is can I trade it for a "non" defective one?? Hmmmm :confused:

I wonder if the extra bulb I paid near $400.00 for is the old version and if it is can I trade it for a "non" defective one?? Hmmmm :confused:Should be a different part #,if not,wouldn't hurt to ask.

Given the fact that Toshiba will be sending out a different part # (the CS verified this) to replace defective bulbs. Its obvious that the bulb had to be redsigned for some reason. Toshiba should have a recall on these bulbs. They will know based on manufacture date and serial # which sets have the potentially bad bulbs. Its the right thing to do.

Not doing so is just them hedging their bets that some people will not watch the set enough in the 1yr warr period so they can skate past their responsibility. They seem to be pretty customer friendly though...we'll see... :rolleyes:

Just for the record, I'm getting my tax return on the 14th and I plan on buying a 62hm195 from buydig.com on that day. My question is, the bulb IS covered under the manufacturers one year warrenty, right? I originally planned on getting a HP md5880 but I was scared off by all the probs that have been reported and now there is this thing with the bulbs. I can purchase a 3 yr extended warrenty with 2 bulb replacements for about the price a one new bulb. Somewhere I remember hearing that the bulb WASN'T covered but you all seem to act like it is. I definitely don't want to be in a situation where in three months I have to drop another 400 and wait 2-3 weeks to get my brand new $3000 TV fixed.

Just for the record, I'm getting my tax return on the 14th and I plan on buying a 62hm195 from buydig.com on that day. My question is, the bulb IS covered under the manufacturers one year warrenty, right? I originally planned on getting a HP md5880 but I was scared off by all the probs that have been reported and now there is this thing with the bulbs. I can purchase a 3 yr extended warrenty with 2 bulb replacements for about the price a one new bulb. Somewhere I remember hearing that the bulb WASN'T covered but you all seem to act like it is. I definitely don't want to be in a situation where in three months I have to drop another 400 and wait 2-3 weeks to get my brand new $3000 TV fixed.

Yes the bulb is covered. Buy the extended warranty though, CYA.

Given the fact that Toshiba will be sending out a different part # (the CS verified this) to replace defective bulbs. Its obvious that the bulb had to be redsigned for some reason. Toshiba should have a recall on these bulbs. They will know based on manufacture date and serial # which sets have the potentially bad bulbs. Its the right thing to do.

Not doing so is just them hedging their bets that some people will not watch the set enough in the 1yr warr period so they can skate past their responsibility. They seem to be pretty customer friendly though...we'll see... :rolleyes:http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/customersupport/updates_notices.asp site should be monitored for possible recalls/firmware updates/issues.There are a couple of replaceable issues addressed.Toshiba is one of the best mfgrs at addressing a problem.

Given the fact that Toshiba will be sending out a different part # (the CS verified this) to replace defective bulbs. Its obvious that the bulb had to be redsigned for some reason. Toshiba should have a recall on these bulbs. They will know based on manufacture date and serial # which sets have the potentially bad bulbs.:

Comcast must be loaning CSR to Toshiba during this bulb meltdown. :rolleyes:

My bulb arrived yesterday (#23311153 for the 56hm195), and I was spooked about the part number and cage assembly looking identical. Installation went easily and the set is back into our entertainment loop. But that comment about the part number really bothered me. I thought that all my whining about where is my lamp cost me. I got one from the back corner of storage that the janitor found sweeping out the bins.

Since I wrote down the SN of my new one into records, I called Toshiba today for the news, good or bad. The CSR indicated that the part # and outside design are identical. Only the bulb itself has changed and that if I got one, it is a new one. There are no old one going out. Period...........

"Take the same precautions as before, low setting and quickstart, and we believe the bulb will stand up to more than before." That statement of course is going to be tested in our homes.

Comcast must be loaning CSR to Toshiba during this bulb meltdown. :rolleyes:

My bulb arrived yesterday (#23311153 for the 56hm195), and I was spooked about the part number and cage assembly looking identical. Installation went easily and the set is back into our entertainment loop. But that comment about the part number really bothered me. I thought that all my whining about where is my lamp cost me. I got one from the back corner of storage that the janitor found sweeping out the bins.

Since I wrote down the SN of my new one into records, I called Toshiba today for the news, good or bad. The CSR indicated that the part # and outside design are identical. Only the bulb itself has changed and that if I got one, it is a new one. There are no old one going out. Period...........

"Take the same precautions as before, low setting and quickstart, and we believe the bulb will stand up to more than before." That statement of course is going to be tested in our homes.
http://www.ercservice.com/lamps/toshibalamps/23311153.html Notice at the top of this page,23311153 and 23311153X.Says their both replacement bulbs,but,its still a different part #. ??? But,if they told you it was the newbie,just go with it.How long have you had your set.If you have stated earlier,sorry,didnt see it.

....and you can be sure I'll get the lamp warranty. A Supplier Which Can Not Be Named, but which sounds much like hideflifestyle (anybody have any experience with these guys?) has a Repairmaster 3-year, 2 lamp max warranty for like $85.

Between that and an extra warranty year on an Amex card, I figure I'm in good shape. By that time, either we will have reached the Age of the Shining Dream, when these lamps are on eBay for $49.99, or Toshiba will be slapped with a class action lawsuit.

Either that, or Repairmaster will be broke and out of business (which is usually the case when I buy an extended warranty.)

I bought my Toshiba 62hm195 and lamp warranty from them - excellent company to do business with. In addition they had about the lowest internet price when combined with shipping!

Just and update no replacement lamp yet called on 2/6 the CSR said they where on backorder and that they would ship it as soon as they had them .

I ordered today the 62HM195 from the company mentioned above (BD). Their price with a stand was just too good. I also feel like Toshiba maybe has their bulb issue resolved. Even if the set I get still has the old, any replacement should be the newer.

I still wonder if it is best to use a UPS or a Monster 1000 power conditioner. Does anyone who knows the facts about the power conditioners tell me if they are really necessary and really do help? I know some about electricity and electronics and think that if the power supply is good in the TV and other components, this noise would be filtered anyway.

Thanks!

I ordered today the 62HM195 from the company mentioned above (BD). Their price with a stand was just too good. I also feel like Toshiba maybe has their bulb issue resolved. Even if the set I get still has the old, any replacement should be the newer.

I still wonder if it is best to use a UPS or a Monster 1000 power conditioner. Does anyone who knows the facts about the power conditioners tell me if they are really necessary and really do help? I know some about electricity and electronics and think that if the power supply is good in the TV and other components, this noise would be filtered anyway.

Thanks!

I have the Tripp-lite HT1500 UPS. Which is both a line conditioner and UPS. I live in the woods in the NYC suburbs and my power has been known to go out a few times a year. I didnt want to take any chances and the Tripp-lite seemed to be the best bang for the buck as it takes care of "dirty" power and its a UPS. An ounce of prevention is better than a pound of cure as they say... :D

I just got a Toshiba 62hm195 and am using a CyberPower CP1200AVR which provides conditioned power, a battery backup for up to four devices (not to exceed 700 watts - the TV is only 265 watts) and four additional plugins for surge protection. Its a great unit at a very reasonable price. And the battery is replaceable. Heavy unit for sure but works very well with my system. I wouldn't think of not having a battery backup given the damage the lamp could sustain in a power outage.

The lamp burned out in my 46HM95 Toshiba DLP after only three months of gentle use. I took all the recommended precautions such as, always using a UPS with battery back-up, setting the fan to run for proper cool down and setting the lamp to low. :mad: All to no avail so I've decided on a change in strategy.

When my replacement lamp arrives I will keep the UPS and fan setting but that baby is going on full brightness from the gitgo. Why suffer with a dull picture if the lamp is going to burn out anyway? Why not enjoy it like you saw it in store? I guarantee they have um set on full power. :)

What's the worst thing that can happen (apart from a higher electric bill)? The lamp fails again in three months? So Toshiba sends me another. The set is guaranteed for one year and I used my American Express when I bought it so I automatically double the warranty, plus I got a three year extended warranty when I bought the set which included up to three lamp replacements. So what the hell. Burn it on high and enjoy the picture.

Now if only I could come up with a way to secure a "spare" lamp so I don't have to wait two to three weeks. Suggestions anyone? :rolleyes:

I'm with you on this one. I'll be ordering the set with a 2x lamp warranty, plus the American Express extra year warranty, and I plan to be moderate, but I'll be basically seeing what works and what doesn't in terms of lamp life. Hey, the faster we burn out these old crappy lamps, the faster they have to make the new good ones, right? :D

The lamp burned out in my 46HM95 Toshiba DLP after only three months of gentle use. I took all the recommended precautions such as, always using a UPS with battery back-up, setting the fan to run for proper cool down and setting the lamp to low. :mad: All to no avail so I've decided on a change in strategy.

When my replacement lamp arrives I will keep the UPS and fan setting but that baby is going on full brightness from the gitgo. Why suffer with a dull picture if the lamp is going to burn out anyway? Why not enjoy it like you saw it in store? I guarantee they have um set on full power. :)

What's the worst thing that can happen (apart from a higher electric bill)? The lamp fails again in three months? So Toshiba sends me another. The set is guaranteed for one year and I used my American Express when I bought it so I automatically double the warranty, plus I got a three year extended warranty when I bought the set which included up to three lamp replacements. So what the hell. Burn it on high and enjoy the picture.

Now if only I could come up with a way to secure a "spare" lamp so I don't have to wait two to three weeks. Suggestions anyone? :rolleyes:

I'm with you on this one. I'll be ordering the set with a 2x lamp warranty, plus the American Express extra year warranty, and I plan to be moderate, but I'll be basically seeing what works and what doesn't in terms of lamp life. Hey, the faster we burn out these old crappy lamps, the faster they have to make the new good ones, right? :D

These sets are touted as "High Bright" Models with a 150 watt bulb that if used in high bright mode should last approx 6,000 hours..no one has come close, even with the low power setting (which should last approx 8000 hours) and every precaution taken including UPS and line conditioners....Im with you guys too....High Bright all the way!!! Lets see what happens!!! :D

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