The 196 series are a large step up in picture quality.

Never having seen a 196 model outside of a store, I can't really speak to the difference between the two... but what I can say is that my 56HM195 has a great picture and now that Toshiba has fixed the problems that I have had... (3 light engines) I am very happy with this set...

Don

I'm considering an MX195 set and have read the 2 professional reviews I could find. Both comment on the very poor out of the box calibration (11,000K color temp). I've searched almost this entire thread and could hardly find a sniff on someone adjusting this themselves. Only one or 2 people mentioned entering the service menu. Before I bought this set I'd want to know that I could enter the service menu and tone down the blues myself.

Can anyone out there tell me that they did this and how difficult it was?

(This is in stark contrast to the FP forums where every second post is on tweaking the PJ's for best picture)

The 196 series are a large step up in picture quality.My dad can whip your dad,mine's bigger than yours,blah,blah,blah. In your opinion only. If the OP had wanted a "better" set (aka,LIKE YOURS) he would have bought one. Don;t tell someone they made a mistake,or pick their purchase,AFTER they come here and say what they bought. Just say Great,good luck, or something else besides bemoaning THEIR decision.My .02...everyone enjoy the FB season,BB playoffs,etc................ :)

My 197 series is a "giant step for mankind" better than your 196 series. You should see that picture.Why,yall are nuts. My 198 will be here in a year or so and it will be Fannnnnnntastic.................... :p

My dad can whip your dad,mine's bigger than yours,blah,blah,blah. In your opinion only. If the OP had wanted a "better" set (aka,LIKE YOURS) he would have bought one. Don;t tell someone they made a mistake,or pick their purchase,AFTER they come here and say what they bought. Just say Great,good luck, or something else besides bemoaning THEIR decision.My .02...everyone enjoy the FB season,BB playoffs,etc................ :)


Nothing to do with mine's bigger it's simply this year they made many major improvements to their sets and it shows quite easily. 12 bit processing, adjustable IRIS and 1080P. The resolution is much better, there's less colour banding and blacks are finally right.

Nothing to do with mine's bigger it's simply this year they made many major improvements to their sets and it shows quite easily. 12 bit processing, adjustable IRIS and 1080P. The resolution is much better, there's less colour banding and blacks are finally right.The 195 has an adjustable iris and has a native resolution of 1080p. As to the analysis of data via the new processor,I'll wait for a more unbiased appraisal.

I'm considering an MX195 set and have read the 2 professional reviews I could find. Both comment on the very poor out of the box calibration (11,000K color temp). I've searched almost this entire thread and could hardly find a sniff on someone adjusting this themselves. Only one or 2 people mentioned entering the service menu. Before I bought this set I'd want to know that I could enter the service menu and tone down the blues myself.

Can anyone out there tell me that they did this and how difficult it was?

(This is in stark contrast to the FP forums where every second post is on tweaking the PJ's for best picture)The reason you won't see much here from the calibrators is because Toshibas are unfriendly to their search for the best picture. This does not mean a calibration will not help. Just that its list of optons is less than other brands.Before you entered the SM, you certainly would want to copy all settings beforehand,as each Toshiba DLPs settings will vary somewhat from the factory.Good luck................ :eek: (Electrical expression)

The 195 has an adjustable iris and has a native resolution of 1080p. As to the analysis of data via the new processor,I'll wait for a more unbiased appraisal.

There are many unbiased opinions. This was the largest improvement year since they went DLP. The changes to the iris has made a huge difference. I returned the 195 as it was unwatchable with the black level. Instead of defending your set why not go have a look? :p

There are many unbiased opinions. This was the largest improvement year since they went DLP. The changes to the iris has made a huge difference. I returned the 195 as it was unwatchable with the black level. Instead of defending your set why not go have a look? :pUh.............this is my last acknowlegement of your annoyance..........I am not defending ANY set,only the OPs who you are so intent on advising how much better your opinion is than their's....get it? That's the "mine is better" I mentioned before.As you are intent on persueing this HS, I will be putting you on the ignore list.

Uh.............this is my last acknowlegement of your annoyance..........I am not defending ANY set,only the OPs who you are so intent on advising how much better your opinion is than their's....get it? That's the "mine is better" I mentioned before.As you are intent on persueing this HS, I will be putting you on the ignore list.

Son PLEASE do put me on the ignore list. It would be an honour. :D

Never having seen a 196 model outside of a store, I can't really speak to the difference between the two... but what I can say is that my 56HM195 has a great picture and now that Toshiba has fixed the problems that I have had... (3 light engines) I am very happy with this set...

DonYou know,Toshiba has had the techs who come to your house replacing lamp engines because it is the easiest way to facilitate as quick and easy, "slide out" the old "slide in the new", an in home repair as possible.They would get the LEs back,diagnose,refurbish,,and send it on to the next tech needing one to replace. I am not a fan of this technique,but,I can see their intended benefits. Due to backordered LEs and parts needed to refurbish same,they ran into numerous irate consumers most all of them finding their way here.LOL.Sources have told me this and have assured me the problems are going to be,or have been, rectified. :)

bkazepis
View Public Profile
Send a private message to bkazepis
Find More Posts by bkazepis
Add bkazepis to Your Buddy List

12-26-05, 10:41 PM #4297 (Print)
enmoco
1080p=WhereYaWannaB


Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Dallas,TX.
Posts: 730 Quote:
Originally Posted by bkazepis
enmoco, have you had to replace your bulb at all? If so, after how much viewing?? If not, how long has your bulb been in service?? I've always been on the cutting edge and am not faint of heart...its the other half that will give me grief....perhaps I should order an extra bulb to have on hand at all times???


[B]I bought my first DLP,56HM195,Dec. 10 '05,was delivered from Conn's locally with what was diagnosed by a Conn's tech. as a bad light engine.Determined it was probably jarred loose in shipment. Was very watchable(light escaping onto a pure black screen)but,I wanted it replaced .Watched it while LE was ordered.Replaced week later. I have several high end sets(plasma). I would rather watch this 195 than any. Maybe I'm nuts.The PQ is like none I have seen.I'm not easily impressed.Also,I'm not easily discouraged. The benifits FAR outweigh the liabilities,in my opinion.These sets may not be for everybody.I relate it to when color was introduced. Its that dramatic for what I believe to be an exceptional buy.Plasma is great,but has a great many drawbacks. So be it. DLP is the best bang for the buck in many years.With the advent of other technologies(SED for one)these sets will continue to fall in price.Bulbs as well. Buy a bulb friendly warranty,

Don1959.........The above post from last Dec. is my experience with the LE problem.Bought my display locally,had it delivered,saw the problem with the escaping light,and called Conn's the next day. I thought about just getting another set,but then figured I would get the "latest" design changes maybe if I went with the new engine. Bulb blew in May of this year. So,I have had problems as well. I can say that Conn's and TCS have been excellant to deal with.

So if a person wanted to try and get a 196 as a warranty replacement for their 195 what might they call TCS and report?

Dr. Hans here,
Just wanted to let everybody know that many posters suffer from a paranoid derangement disorder. Due to a disorienting lifestyle, many men choose to validate their egos with technological gadgets which inflate and validate one's ego.

In such an individuals personal life, when faced with the harsh reality of one's own imperfection, said individual lashes out at his technological trophies.

These individuals create problems that don't exist and exagerate the minor imperfections that do exist. Their opinions are warped and grossly biased. These individuals easily bond with others who see the world as they do.

Beware of such individuals, especially those that bash the Toshiba HM195 line.

The only real difference between the HM195's and HM196's seems to be the $500 drop in price seen by the HM196 and the elimination of the firewire ports.

Last but not least, I am a golden god!

Dr. Hans here,
Just wanted to let everybody know that many posters suffer from a paranoid derangement disorder. Due to a disorienting lifestyle, many men choose to validate their egos with technological gadgets which inflate and validate one's ego.

In such an individuals personal life, when faced with the harsh reality of one's own imperfection, said individual lashes out at his technological trophies.

These individuals create problems that don't exist and exagerate the minor imperfections that do exist. Their opinions are warped and grossly biased. These individuals easily bond with others who see the world as they do.

Beware of such individuals, especially those that bash the Toshiba HM195 line.

The only real difference between the HM195's and HM196's seems to be the $500 drop in price seen by the HM196 and the elimination of the firewire ports.

Last but not least, I am a golden god!

I've owned both have you? The differences are a much improved iris, far better blacks, 12 bit video processing which eliminates banding and a less noisy picture. If he's within the return window he should know that the 196 is a major upgrade.

I have a 62hm195 and I have a prob with my set. When the screen is black, the left side of the screen is much lighter than the right. Anyone else have this problem? any suggestions?

I've owned both have you? The differences are a much improved iris, far better blacks, 12 bit video processing which eliminates banding and a less noisy picture. If he's within the return window he should know that the 196 is a major upgrade.

Maybe you just missed it, but you never answered my question. When you owned a 195 model, did you have it professionally calibrated before returning it? And has your current 196 model been professionally calibrated?

Please understand, I'm not attacking you or saying you're wrong about anything. I'm just trying to get a sense of whether your comparison was "apples to apples."

Maybe you just missed it, but you never answered my question. When you owned a 195 model, did you have it professionally calibrated before returning it? And has your current 196 model been professionally calibrated?

Please understand, I'm not attacking you or saying you're wrong about anything. I'm just trying to get a sense of whether your comparison was "apples to apples."


Both were calibrated.

Well, one year old and my lamp blew. I just got one shipped to me from Toshiba. To my surpise, they covered it under the warranty.

In any event, I read the lamp replacement instructions in the manual. It says to use "lint-free" gloves when replacing the lamp. Can any of you tell me what type of gloves you have used when replacing the lamp?

Would those latex doctor-type gloves be okay?

Thanks

Well, one year old and my lamp blew. I just got one shipped to me from Toshiba. To my surpise, they covered it under the warranty.

In any event, I read the lamp replacement instructions in the manual. It says to use "lint-free" gloves when replacing the lamp. Can any of you tell me what type of gloves you have used when replacing the lamp?

Would those latex doctor-type gloves be okay?

Thanks


I'm going to say latex gloves are lint free. Change the lamp, enjoy your set :)

This set is like 1500 bucks at BuyDig....Isn't that an excellent price for a 1080?

This set is like 1500 bucks at BuyDig....Isn't that an excellent price for a 1080?
Uh......................which set would that be??

Sorry..hee hee...

the 56HM195

Sorry..hee hee...

the 56HM195Actually it says $1595,still a great buy.

I have heard of people getting the 72" version for close to $2K now. Search around more and I bet you can find a better deal than $1500.

So if a person wanted to try and get a 196 as a warranty replacement for their 195 what might they call TCS and report?A stickup.Reach for the sky and hand over a new display.

I received the Toshiba 1.3.2 update in the mail today and ran it on my 72HM195. I transfered the data to my computer so I could share it with anyone here that wants it.

It is in a self extracting .rar file you need to first extract. It is a small 12MB file you then need to transfer to your own memory card. Just transfer the files directly on to the card. (no sub folders). Turn your TV on, insert the card and the update will begin. When done pull the card and the TV auto shuts off. the TV may turn on and off a few times. When it is done turn your TV off again and unplug it for a 30 sec. Then replug back in and you are done.

Hope this helps and is easier than calling support and trying to get them to send you a update.

Here is the link for the download. You have to wait a few seconds for the download button to appear. ]
thislink is NOT for the 1.3.2,update it is 1.2.3, didn't notice it until too late and has rendered my tv inoperable! Just says, "booting" now, and won't start up. Do NOT install this file!

any help here guys, other than calling Toshiba tomorrow and having service sent out?

I just got the Harmony 676 remote and have a problem when turning on the TV. The Harmony turns everything on OK including the TV but it leaves the input screen open overlaying the picture. I understand that the harmony is trying to make sure the input selection is correct but the input screen box should close. Something I also noticed is that after turning on the TV, if I hit select or the input number the TV is already on, then the box does not close. I thought I remembered that doing either of these choices would close the box but now it won't. This behavior happens anytime I open the input box--not just when using the harmony to turn everything on.
Any experiences you could share to help me troubleshoot this would be appreciated. If any of you know a utility to use to program the Harmony directly could also be helpful. The web based programing from Harmony leaves a lot to be desired.

I just got the Harmony 676 remote and have a problem when turning on the TV. The Harmony turns everything on OK including the TV but it leaves the input screen open overlaying the picture. I understand that the harmony is trying to make sure the input selection is correct but the input screen box should close. Something I also noticed is that after turning on the TV, if I hit select or the input number the TV is already on, then the box does not close. I thought I remembered that doing either of these choices would close the box but now it won't. This behavior happens anytime I open the input box--not just when using the harmony to turn everything on.
Any experiences you could share to help me troubleshoot this would be appreciated. If any of you know a utility to use to program the Harmony directly could also be helpful. The web based programing from Harmony leaves a lot to be desired.

I was having this issue with my Harmony 880. What I found was I was pulling the remote away from pointing to the TV too soon. Once I kept it pointed towards the TV at the end of the macro cycle the input screen would go away. Try that, see of it works.

As an aside, in comparison to other remotes (ie: Pronto etc) Harmony's programming and customer service are worlds above the others in my opinion. :D

anyone play games on their MX196s?? is there any lag when not in game mode?? how about PQ when in game mode, ive heard this about all TVs with a game mode that it degrages PQ greatly. also do you think there may be a lag issue with PS3 because of the lack of a 1080p input on the toshibas??

I was having this issue with my Harmony 880. What I found was I was pulling the remote away from pointing to the TV too soon. Once I kept it pointed towards the TV at the end of the macro cycle the input screen would go away. Try that, see of it works.

As an aside, in comparison to other remotes (ie: Pronto etc) Harmony's programming and customer service are worlds above the others in my opinion. :D

I thought about that possibility and make a point to keep the remote pointed at the systems until it has had a chance to complete commands. That isn't the problem but it certainly could have been and thanks for your reply.
Anyone else with other ideas?

I posted this on the "HM/MX" board yesterday.

i've had my 56hm195 since 9-13-06. i bought it at Fry's with a build date of 3-11-06. for the first couple weeks i had no problems however while watching a football game (via Directv HD) the screen turned magenta, image started scrolling towards the left and a 1/4" light blue line presented itself on the right side of the screen from top to bottom. i turned off set twice before the image went back to "normal". since that time i have noticed severe color banding and blothiness. Called TCS and was advised to have local service look at set.
tech arrived today and as i described problem to tech he said that was just the way these sets work. after showing him the problem from all inputs and different material he agreed it was the worse case he has seen and took the set to the shop however if he can not repeat the color, scrolling problem there may not be much that can be done. this is an issue of concern for me. if the color banding problem was present BEFORE the color/scroll problem i did not notice it.
if anyone has any insight i'd be happy to hear it.

Please keep us posted on this. A friend of mine who has a 62mx195 has seen his TV do the same thing on two different occasion.

I would rec. video taping next time it happens if you can.

I had a 72mx195 that had some wierd color problems (you can check the mx195 thread for a video of it) and after contacting TCS I got a 196 due to part not being available.

I just wanted to be the first one to annouce that my 56mx195 only gives a blank screen when I switch my xbox360 to 1080p. Xbox just released an update allowing for 1080p output.

It apears so far that the TV does not except 1080p over component video.

I know there was speculation about whether it could accept 1080p input or not. It looks like we have our answer.

I am going to try it over VGA and see what we end up with. I'll keep you posted.

I also have a Toshiba 56mx195 and it goes black when selecting 1080p in my Xbox 360. It's hooked up via component, but I'm curious if going VGA will allow it to receive a 1080p signal.

Keep us posted Dracus - I hope it works for you! (and subsequently me). :)

Thanks!

I just wanted to be the first one to annouce that my 56mx195 only gives a blank screen when I switch my xbox360 to 1080p. Xbox just released an update allowing for 1080p output.

It apears so far that the TV does not except 1080p over component video.

I know there was speculation about whether it could accept 1080p input or not. It looks like we have our answer.

I am going to try it over VGA and see what we end up with. I'll keep you posted.

There's never been any confusion about this... Toshiba 1080p DLP's do not accept a 1080p signal over any input. They take up to 1080i, which is perfectly fine and looks awesome. You still get a 1080p image displayed no matter what. Toshiba is one of the few HDTV's that handles the 1080i to 1080p conversion very well. Set your xbox to 1080i and enjoy.

Ok, you can't display 1920x1080 over vga either :( Same blank screen.

I thought about that possibility and make a point to keep the remote pointed at the systems until it has had a chance to complete commands. That isn't the problem but it certainly could have been and thanks for your reply.
Anyone else with other ideas?

I also have an 880 and I personally haven't had any issues with the TV. Every once in while it wont change the input a simple "help" will take care of it. Usually that was because the remote was confused what input it was on, or I moved it away to soon.

Honestly, if you don't have a harmony remote, I don't know how you could use everything. I'd have 10 remote controls up on the table.

I just wanted to be the first one to annouce that my 56mx195 only gives a blank screen when I switch my xbox360 to 1080p. Xbox just released an update allowing for 1080p output.

It apears so far that the TV does not except 1080p over component video.

I know there was speculation about whether it could accept 1080p input or not. It looks like we have our answer.

I am going to try it over VGA and see what we end up with. I'll keep you posted.

As gshelley61 said, this is no surprise. The Toshiba 1080p sets display at 1080p resolution. They NEVER claimed to accept 1080p signals as indicated in the specs.

But outputting 1080i out of the PS3 and letting the TV deinterlace to produce 1080p is supposed to be just as good.

I also have an 880 and I personally haven't had any issues with the TV. Every once in while it wont change the input a simple "help" will take care of it. Usually that was because the remote was confused what input it was on, or I moved it away to soon.

Can you look up the delay settings you have for your remote and post the results here? I have somewhat resolved the problem by having the remote send an "exit" signal at the end of the input selection sequence.

Could you try two other things for me? Hit input on the standard TV remote; then hit the number of whatever input you are already on. Does the input screen disappear? Second sequence: hit input; then hit "enter". Does the input screen disappear?

Thanks in advance!

Ok, you can't display 1920x1080 over vga either :( Same blank screen.

Again, no surprise.

Max input resolution for VGA is 1024x768 @ 60

1080i is through component YPbPr or HDMI only

Since we are talking Xbox 360 and cables... I have a question for MX195/6 owners with both Xbox 360 component and VGA cables. Which cable and resolution are you using?

I initially used a component cable with the 360 set at 1080i for 3 months. I then purchased a VGA cable from ebay last June and have been using it at 1360X768. Several of us discussed the 360 VGA cable in "The OFFICIAL Toshiba 56MX195/62MX195/72MX195 OWNER'S THREAD" back in July, but no one said which is/should be better. I'd say that 1360x768@60 via VGA looks better than 1920x1080@30 or 1280x720@60 via component on my 56MX195.

I just got a 72HM195 for about $2k so i got a 5 year extended warranty as well. Overall I'm impressed with the TV.

I did have one question though; How/Where can you check the number of hours the bulb has been used? (did i miss something in the menu)
v. 1.2.4

Also, I've got the same "overscan" issues others have reported with HTPC's. unfortunately the intel graphic chip does not have any utility to adjust overscan. No way around this huh?

I just got a 72HM195 for about $2k so i got a 5 year extended warranty as well. Overall I'm impressed with the TV.

I did have one question though; How/Where can you check the number of hours the bulb has been used? (did i miss something in the menu)
v. 1.2.4

Also, I've got the same "overscan" issues others have reported with HTPC's. unfortunately the intel graphic chip does not have any utility to adjust overscan. No way around this huh?

Where did you get your TV so we can inform others?

Where did you get your TV so we can inform others?

I actually got it at Fry's electronics, It was their last one. so YMMV... etc..

Fry's currently has lots of TV's on "clearance" so its worth a quick browse. i know the 62 and 52 inch models were also on sale to some extent.

Since we are talking Xbox 360 and cables... I have a question for MX195/6 owners with both Xbox 360 component and VGA cables. Which cable and resolution are you using?

Component, 1080i.

I will have the Xbox 360 HD-DVD player on the 7 or 8th of this month. So I'll also have some impressions to share in a week or so.

Ok, you can't display 1920x1080 over vga either :( Same blank screen.

My bulb blew on Saturday so I have been waiting to try this myself. My new bulb should be on my doorstep right now. I too have the 56MX195, now I guess I won't bother. As already mentioned, Toshiba never alluded to this set being able to accept 1080p (even over HDMI) so we can't be pissed about it, but it would have been a nice bonus.

That said, I think the scaler in the set is pretty top notch, part of the reason I went with this set was due to the imperceptible lag.

I tried played Smash Bros. Melee on a 62HM196 and can confirm that there is a minute amount of lag, even with game mode. However, the lag is VERY small, and almost unnoticeable. If I hadn't played Smash Bros on a standard TV before playing it on the Toshiba, I wouldn't have noticed the lag, but because I had a normal TV to compare it to, there was definitely some lag there.

The lag was very, very minute, though, and even smaller with Game Mode turned ON. If you aren't the type to notice lag, or if you don't play timing-based games, you probably won't notice the lag at all. But if you're anal about HDTV lag times, you might want to head to your local Best Buy, or equivalent, and try out this TV before buying it.

I posted this on the "HM/MX" board yesterday.

i've had my 56hm195 since 9-13-06. i bought it at Fry's with a build date of 3-11-06. for the first couple weeks i had no problems however while watching a football game (via Directv HD) the screen turned magenta, image started scrolling towards the left and a 1/4" light blue line presented itself on the right side of the screen from top to bottom. i turned off set twice before the image went back to "normal". since that time i have noticed severe color banding and blothiness. Called TCS and was advised to have local service look at set.
tech arrived today and as i described problem to tech he said that was just the way these sets work. after showing him the problem from all inputs and different material he agreed it was the worse case he has seen and took the set to the shop however if he can not repeat the color, scrolling problem there may not be much that can be done. this is an issue of concern for me. if the color banding problem was present BEFORE the color/scroll problem i did not notice it.
if anyone has any insight i'd be happy to hear it.

This is a follow-up.
The first service provider returned the set with "no problems found" so i had a second service provider look at the set. They said that the light engine needed to be replace and I would see an improvement. Since then I had a moving accident and cracked the outer screen near the top (about 8"). It's noticable about 30% of the time. It really bugs my wife. TCS says the set can operate without the outer screen however I would increase the chance of dust damage. The new service guys says that the screen is a part of the optical system and I would not get a viewable image. Does anyone know how to contact the tech guys at Toshiba to get a soild answer to this question? As always thanks in advance.

I have 2 questions about my 62hm196.

First, today I am watching NFL football on HD Fox and HD CBS. The info when watching Fox says 720p input and when watching CBS says 1080i input. There is a tremendous difference between the 2 channels. The Fox broadcast was great; however, the CBS broadcast was terrible. Is this a problem with the cable or is my TV having trouble handling the 1080i input?

Second, sometimes when watching channels that require black bars on the sides, I see a small area on the top of the right bar that looks like a picture is trying to come through. What is causing this?

Thanks is advance.

I have 2 questions about my 62hm196.

First, today I am watching NFL football on HD Fox and HD CBS. The info when watching Fox says 720p input and when watching CBS says 1080i input. There is a tremendous difference between the 2 channels. The Fox broadcast was great; however, the CBS broadcast was terrible. Is this a problem with the cable or is my TV having trouble handling the 1080i input?

Second, sometimes when watching channels that require black bars on the sides, I see a small area on the top of the right bar that looks like a picture is trying to come through. What is causing this?

Thanks is advance.

This is definitely a problem with your cable box. Particularly the second problem you mentioned. This is generally an adjustment problem within your cable box.

hope this helps, goodluck!

Great Thread! I have a 56HM196 DLP and the bulb went out. I called toshiba and the CRS told me to describe what the bulb looks like. Without diving into my TV and pulling the bulb, does anyone know what a blown bulb looks like? I heard a loud pop and the screen went black.

Great Thread! I have a 56HM196 DLP and the bulb went out. I called toshiba and the CRS told me to describe what the bulb looks like. Without diving into my TV and pulling the bulb, does anyone know what a blown bulb looks like? I heard a loud pop and the screen went black.What is the model # again?

What did you say when they told you to pull the old lamp.no??

Great Thread! I have a 56HM196 DLP and the bulb went out. I called toshiba and the CRS told me to describe what the bulb looks like. Without diving into my TV and pulling the bulb, does anyone know what a blown bulb looks like? I heard a loud pop and the screen went black.

I'm assuming you mean 56HM195 (Toshiba doesn't make a 56" 1080p anymore - starts w/62HM196*!

Click HERE (http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/2954945220032577752utXLme) ... to see what my 56HM195 Lamp looked like! Zoom in to see the shattered lamp bulb behind the safety lens. (See Page 104 of your Owner's Manual "Lamp unit replacement and care")

*NOTE: My 56HM195 was replaced (Firmware update failure) with the 62HM195.

Phil

I have 2 questions about my 62hm196.

First, today I am watching NFL football on HD Fox and HD CBS. The info when watching Fox says 720p input and when watching CBS says 1080i input. There is a tremendous difference between the 2 channels. The Fox broadcast was great; however, the CBS broadcast was terrible. Is this a problem with the cable or is my TV having trouble handling the 1080i input?

Second, sometimes when watching channels that require black bars on the sides, I see a small area on the top of the right bar that looks like a picture is trying to come through. What is causing this?

Thanks is advance.

Be aware that just because you are watching a HD channel it does not mean the program you are watching is in HD.

I know what you mean about the football game. The noon game I am watching on CBS is not in wide screen and not in HD. The noon game on Fox is and looks way better at 720p than the 1080i CBS channel. But then the 3pm game comes on CBS and it may be in HD. Then that game looks better. The CBS Noon game is probably your local team while the 3pm game is a nationally broadcast game unless your local team happened to be playing a nationally broadcast game that week.

Thanks guy for the posts about the bulb. I called the CRS at Toshiba and they are sending a new lamp. BTW, I pulled my lamp and it looked exactly like the picture posted. Wit the one statement that my 56hm195 does not show 1080P, does that mean that it has to upconvert from 1080i? I was sold on this TV because it was 1080P. Did I get dupped? Or was a getting ribbed becaues I wrote 196 instead of 195 instead?

Thanks guy for the posts about the bulb. I called the CRS at Toshiba and they are sending a new lamp. BTW, I pulled my lamp and it looked exactly like the picture posted. Wit the one statement that my 56hm195 does not show 1080P, does that mean that it has to upconvert from 1080i? I was sold on this TV because it was 1080P. Did I get dupped? Or was a getting ribbed becaues I wrote 196 instead of 195 instead?

The 56HM195 has a native resolution of 1080P but will not support that resolution from any input. So, yes it has to upconvert anything you throw at it to 1080P. But frankly, being a 56" screen, unless you're sitting 5' from the TV, I don't think you would see the difference between an upconvert 1080i->1080p vs a real 1080p feed.

1080i signal input to a 1080p display does not involve any up-conversion or upscaling. There are 1920x1080 picture elements (pixels) displayed per frame whether it is composed of two interlaced fields or single progressive frame. The only processing going on is de-interlacing (and 3:2 pulldown if it is a film based source). You are seeing a 1080p image on your display in any case.

Well, from what I've read, the tv simply delinterlaces the signal and plays them in order. No visual difference at all. Dvds are recorded in interlaced format, the progressive is done internally before the output.

Of course, 1080p though HDMI to TV being all digital all the way might be different.

Perhaps we can hope for firmware upgrade from Toshiba. :)

Very informative forum. I have had the unit for 3 mo's got the display model @ future shop...Bulb went first week but that was expected... 2 days later I was back up and running. Im having two small issues. First, The picture is appearing tilted upwards to the right. Any reasonthis may be happening and is there a way to deal with this myself? Secondly, being a newbie I was wondering how I can run this unit with An expressVU HD receiver through the HDMI port and get sound without running it through an amplifier and surround system. Also I am only showing as running in 480P on screen, how can I change this? Any help would be appreciated! Great TV otherwise Id recommend it to anyone, I previously owned a 60" SONY CRT and a 37" Hitachi now Im in with some better technology. Cheers!

I posted a cpl few months ago telling everyone here about how I had ordered the 56HM195 from BuyDig for 1500 bucks plus shipping... I have not had any issues at all and I must add that the PQ out of the box is amazing. I can't wait to get the HD-DVD player for my xbox and yes it's a 360...

In my earlier post I expressed deep concerns just before my set got here b/c someone on here was ranting about poor picture quality etc... He was going on and on about a lot of crap and at the time it really made me want to return the entire thing...

I must add that the guy only proved his own stupidity... I am glad I kept the television, and while there are bulb issues, at least Toshiba is portraying eagerness to fix the issues as they arise.

As for people bestowing their God given knowledge to educate the meek on how everything is either black or white, *as far as quality goes* I beg you guys to keep your mouths closed because you know nothing! God you guys know SOOOO LITTLE and you get SOOOO excited *fanatical* like a bunch of little girls getting all excited nearly pissing themselves over some crappy drama.

I'm trying to enable 1080P output from xbox360 over component cable to my newly purchased 62HM196.

The 1080I works fine, the 720p works fine, the 1080p goes to a black screen, no output until the xbox reverts itself.

I'm been reading up all day on this and 1080p over component is possible, the xbox outputs 1080p over component or VGA. I'm getting conflicting reports whether the hm196 accepts a 1080p over component cable or not...so does it?

I just remembered something as i typed this though, i have the cables routed through my Marantz Amp for component switching, I bet it's the weak link not supporting the 1080p, though as far as i understand it's just a passive routing, not processing any signal. Any idea's? I'll try bypassing the amp when i get home.

On a second note, why doesn't the xbox support DTS pass through HD DVD and standard DVD offers DTS audio, why does it re-encode it to DD even if DTS is selected from the audio menu of the dvd?

I'm trying to enable 1080P output from xbox360 over component cable to my newly purchased 62HM196.

The 1080I works fine, the 720p works fine, the 1080p goes to a black screen, no output until the xbox reverts itself.

I'm been reading up all day on this and 1080p over component is possible, the xbox outputs 1080p over component or VGA. I'm getting conflicting reports whether the hm196 accepts a 1080p over component cable or not...so does it?

I just remembered something as i typed this though, i have the cables routed through my Marantz Amp for component switching, I bet it's the weak link not supporting the 1080p, though as far as i understand it's just a passive routing, not processing any signal. Any idea's? I'll try bypassing the amp when i get home.

On a second note, why doesn't the xbox support DTS pass through HD DVD and standard DVD offers DTS audio, why does it re-encode it to DD even if DTS is selected from the audio menu of the dvd?

your tv DOES NOT accept 1080p.
it upconvertes every signal to 1080p

and the XBOX 360 outputs 1080p via VGA ONLY

your tv DOES NOT accept 1080p.
it upconvertes every signal to 1080p

and the XBOX 360 outputs 1080p via VGA ONLY

While I appreciate the response, thats not matching with the information I have, do keep in mind this is the 196 not the 195.

What is your source for this information?

Although I don't know about the XBOX but the 196 models will not accept 1080p on any input.

your tv DOES NOT accept 1080p.
it upconvertes every signal to 1080p

and the XBOX 360 outputs 1080p via VGA ONLY

Nope, the Xbox 360 outputs 1080p via component in addition to VGA- I've got one - , obvious your TV has to support it. Currently only Samsung HDTV's can do that but at CES 2007 another vender stated that they would produce one also.

I'm trying to enable 1080P output from xbox360 over component cable to my newly purchased 62HM196.

The 1080I works fine, the 720p works fine, the 1080p goes to a black screen, no output until the xbox reverts itself.

I'm been reading up all day on this and 1080p over component is possible, the xbox outputs 1080p over component or VGA. I'm getting conflicting reports whether the hm196 accepts a 1080p over component cable or not...so does it?

I just remembered something as i typed this though, i have the cables routed through my Marantz Amp for component switching, I bet it's the weak link not supporting the 1080p, though as far as i understand it's just a passive routing, not processing any signal. Any idea's? I'll try bypassing the amp when i get home.

On a second note, why doesn't the xbox support DTS pass through HD DVD and standard DVD offers DTS audio, why does it re-encode it to DD even if DTS is selected from the audio menu of the dvd?

I don't think that the 62HM196 can input a 1080p signal via component, current only Samsungs can do that.

While I appreciate the response, thats not matching with the information I have, do keep in mind this is the 196 not the 195.

What is your source for this information?The info you have is wrong.Just as you are for questioning these posters who have been kind enough to give you the correct info you came to this thread seeking. Your display is incapable of accepting 1080p,period.As for your final question...........you feel we need to lie to you?

http://ultimateavmag.com/rearprojectiontvs/806tosh62hm/ Read the paragraph directly under the sub-heading........Getting the image right........Getting the Image Right
I'll lead off with an answer to the question you're all asking. This Toshiba will not accept a direct 1080p input. The highest resolution it will accept is 1080i. It deinterlaces all 1080i inputs internally to 1080p before passing the signal on to the imaging elements. It's also worth repeating here that although Toshiba's first-gen HD DVD players don't provide a 1080p output, all of the HD DVDs released so far have been mastered at 1080p/24, which the players convert to 1080i/30.

.... current only Samsungs can do that.
err.... huh??? I don't want to be rude, but this is not true according to the information I have. It may have been true a year or two ago?

I considered not posting since this point is off topic to the original question, but then I thought it was important to make sure that newbies were not inappropriately misled.

For example, all of HP's DLP's can take 1080p inputs over component. I wish I had written down their model numbers. In addition, the following models claim to allow 1080p over component:

Mitsubishi WD62628
Sony KDS50A2000
Hitachi 57F59A
Hitachi 65F59A
Mitsubishi WD-y57
Samsung HL-S5087W
Mitsubishi WD-52631
JVC HD56FN97
Samsung HL-S6187W

I've recently helped someone weed through a bunch of TV's in the 50" range because so many of them claim 1080p, but won't accept 1080p inputs. I've taken a lot of information from their websites and spec sheets. Often the spec sheets are insufficient. Some places I've had to call. I do NOT claim to know any of this to be true first hand, all of this is second hand information. Please everyone correct me if you know any of this to be untrue.

The info you have is wrong.Just as you are for questioning these posters who have been kind enough to give you the correct info you came to this thread seeking. Your display is incapable of accepting 1080p,period.As for your final question...........you feel we need to lie to you?

I wasn't questioning the info about the Toshiba per se, I was questioning the info about the Xbox not outputting 1080p Via component and as he later stated he had no Xbox experience. Not everything everyone says on the internet is true. I appreciate the info that doesn't mean i loose the right to question it or seak a second opinion.

I bypassed the amp and as i expected same issue, so yes the TV doesn't accept a 1080p signal, kinda defeats the purpose of calling it a 1080p display, and on several forums, it was said to be a "true" 1080p display.

Not a huge deal, I bought it because I got it on a good sale ($1700) and I wanted a fairly inexpensive big screen tv larger then my 55 that did HDMI for my Sony megachanger to up convert, it does what i need, HD-DVD is all 1080 i from what i hear, blue-ray is way to expensive to be practical at this point, and no games are mastered in 1080P yet so what am i really losing?.

What do we think of the "Game mode" of this TV, and do people prefer 720p or 1080i?

... kinda defeats the purpose of calling it a 1080p display, and on several forums, it was said to be a "true" 1080p display.

That's because It Is A True 1080p Display - since the Toshiba either upscales (480i/p & 720p) or deinterlaces (1080i) signals = 1080p and does it rather well as long you're using the 1:1 Natural picture mode.

Phil

I wasn't questioning the info about the Toshiba per se, I was questioning the info about the Xbox not outputting 1080p Via component and as he later stated he had no Xbox experience. Not everything everyone says on the internet is true. I appreciate the info that doesn't mean i loose the right to question it or seak a second opinion.This is your exact earlier reply.........
Originally Posted by Antimon
While I appreciate the response, thats not matching with the information I have, do keep in mind this is the 196 not the 195.

What is your source for this information?If that is not directly questioning the 196 info specifically,(no mention of xbox info) I must be blind. And yes,I agree,not everyone tells the truth on these forums either...... :o

err.... huh??? I don't want to be rude, but this is not true according to the information I have. It may have been true a year or two ago?

I considered not posting since this point is off topic to the original question, but then I thought it was important to make sure that newbies were not inappropriately misled.

For example, all of HP's DLP's can take 1080p inputs over component. I wish I had written down their model numbers. In addition, the following models claim to allow 1080p over component:

Mitsubishi WD62628
Sony KDS50A2000
Hitachi 57F59A
Hitachi 65F59A
Mitsubishi WD-y57
Samsung HL-S5087W
Mitsubishi WD-52631
JVC HD56FN97
Samsung HL-S6187W

I've recently helped someone weed through a bunch of TV's in the 50" range because so many of them claim 1080p, but won't accept 1080p inputs. I've taken a lot of information from their websites and spec sheets. Often the spec sheets are insufficient. Some places I've had to call. I do NOT claim to know any of this to be true first hand, all of this is second hand information. Please everyone correct me if you know any of this to be untrue.http://www.engadget.com/2007/01/03/hp-leaves-dlp-out-of-2007-ces-lineup/ (http://www.engadget.com/2007/01/03/hp-leaves-dlp-out-of-2007-ces-lineup/) not anymore.......... :)

Personally, Give me 62" for $1700 at 1080i over 42" at 3-4 grand probably at 1080p

Maybe in 5 years when 1080p source is common place and large 1080p native lcd / plasma / oled displays are a grand or 2, i'll switch.

I posted a cpl few months ago telling everyone here about how I had ordered the 56HM195 from BuyDig for 1500 bucks plus shipping... I have not had any issues at all and I must add that the PQ out of the box is amazing. I can't wait to get the HD-DVD player for my xbox and yes it's a 360...

In my earlier post I expressed deep concerns just before my set got here b/c someone on here was ranting about poor picture quality etc... He was going on and on about a lot of crap and at the time it really made me want to return the entire thing...

I must add that the guy only proved his own stupidity... I am glad I kept the television, and while there are bulb issues, at least Toshiba is portraying eagerness to fix the issues as they arise.

As for people bestowing their God given knowledge to educate the meek on how everything is either black or white, *as far as quality goes* I beg you guys to keep your mouths closed because you know nothing! God you guys know SOOOO LITTLE and you get SOOOO excited *fanatical* like a bunch of little girls getting all excited nearly pissing themselves over some crappy drama.I guess you have angered the powers that be..........Will be interesting to hear what TCS tells you about downloading an update from a forum and rendering your display useless.

Do you have to pick on the guy in multiple threads?

Do you have to pick on the guy in multiple threads? As you refer to the Toshiba 56MX195/62MX195/72MX195 OWNER'S THREAD,where he is seeking more help,yes I do think this is pertinent.As to "picking" on him,where was your protest to the post in question?

tt-maz:First, The picture is appearing tilted upwards to the right. Any reasonthis may be happening and is there a way to deal with this myself?

I have the same problem on a few tvs that I've had. Is there a solution to this without having to take the tv back or having to pay somebody a stupid amount of money to fix something that should've been right in the first place?

What do we think of the "Game mode" of this TV, and do people prefer 720p or 1080i?

I have a PS3 connected to my 56MX195 using HDMI. I usually play games in 720p and it looks fantastic.

As you refer to the Toshiba 56MX195/62MX195/72MX195 OWNER'S THREAD,where he is seeking more help,yes I do think this is pertinent.As to "picking" on him,where was your protest to the post in question?

I don't believe that I protested any of his posts.. I simply posted that the 196 series will not accept a 1080p signal.... which, as far as I know, is true.

There really was no need to rub his problem in his face, I think he will find out on his own.

Don

I don't believe that I protested any of his posts.. I simply posted that the 196 series will not accept a 1080p signal.... which, as far as I know, is true.

There really was no need to rub his problem in his face, I think he will find out on his own.

DonReally,you don't seem to grasp any of this. He doesn't have a 196 series.He has a 195. Never claimed to have a 196. The text of the post he made is what I questioned.If you take exception,duly noted. But nonetheless,you are confused,just the same. The post I questioned has shomehow eluded you,let it lie.

Yeah, you are correct... got confused between posts... sorry about that

Don

Upon reading your past posts here,you were addressing Antimon on his 196,not Thoitiner.

What version of HDMI does the 56HM195 have?

1.0?
2.0?

What version of HDMI does the 56HM195 have?

1.0?
2.0?
No such thing as HDMI 2.0. The newest version of HDMI is 1.3, also found on the 2007 Toshiba DLPs. The 1995 models probably have HDMI 1.0 or 1.1.

No such thing as HDMI 2.0. The newest version of HDMI is 1.3, also found on the 2007 Toshiba DLPs. The 1995 models probably have HDMI 1.0 or 1.1.I would be interested in seeing any info you have about the 2007 line of Toshiba dlps. Could you relate where you found this? I am assuming you saw this on the internet, If not.where? Thx in advance........ :)

See the following thread:

any news about new Toshiba 1080p dlp's at CES? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=784666)

You can see a few pics of the new Toshibas here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9470649&&#post9470649).

Hey for what its worth just picked up a 62hm116 from costco, had to replace my Toshiba46" 720p 46hm84 (bad hdmi port). I love the upgrade to 1080p and just FYI I had my 46" and the bulb was going on 14 months with no sign of dimming... :eek: and thats getting used 2 kids and a wife lots of DVD, sports and video games. I was for the most part very pleased with my old set and hope that the new one will serve as well. Xbox 360 looks great @ 1080i then upconverted to 1080p. I wasnt able to toy with it long but from what I could tell right off not any lag time..I had to go to work so the kids are already breaking it in... I hate getting new toys and other people breaking it in before I get my chance :( Thats okay I got tonight and tomorrow and then I got four days off to tweak it. I orderd a HD calibration DVD by Avia any thoughts good or bad..thx

See the following thread:

any news about new Toshiba 1080p dlp's at CES? (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=784666)

You can see a few pics of the new Toshibas here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=9470649&&#post9470649).Thanks for your response,but,where is the part about 1.3 HDMi,or any other particulars, as to the features of the md dlps.Nice picture though.Thanks again............

After double checking (looking at the SECOND picture),which,I am including the site here,so anyone who might like to see some features offered in 2007 can actually see them. I do not however see any mention of 1.3 hdmi. Could it be that where the list of features highlighted says that this display has 3 HDMI ports was thought to be "1.3" HDMI? Or, possibly I didn't research enough on that site.Thanks again..... :) http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=72752

according to the WIKIPEDIA there are several versions of HDMI...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDMI

I am not saying wikipedia is the end all or anything... They just have some VERY interesting information about HDMI and DVI connections.

So if someone can prove them wrong then please feel free to update their page... If someone has information that I need to clear up confusion that I may have then be my guest.

Originally Posted by ThroItInEr
What version of HDMI does the 56HM195 have?

1.0?
2.0?

Originally Posted by bfdtv
No such thing as HDMI 2.0. The newest version of HDMI is 1.3, also found on the 2007 Toshiba DLPs. The 1995 models probably have HDMI 1.0 or 1.1.

I bought the 56HM195 about a year ago, thinking that it was a true 1080p because that is how Toshiba advertises the product. Last week I bought the PS3 which puts out a true 1080p output but my 56HM195 only excepts 1080i. I think this is the biggest scam! They don't state anywhere on their website that this tv is an upconversion 1080p.
Has anyone else fallen into this trap like me? If so do you plan to take legal action?

I bought the 56HM195 about a year ago, thinking that it was a true 1080p because that is how Toshiba advertises the product. Last week I bought the PS3 which puts out a true 1080p output but my 56HM195 only excepts 1080i. I think this is the biggest scam! They don't state anywhere on their website that this tv is an upconversion 1080p.
Has anyone else fallen into this trap like me? If so do you plan to take legal action?Surely you jest. BTW,it is a 1080p display.It deinterlaces 1080i,not an upconversion.That would be 720p. Plenty of knowledge on the internet.

I bought the 56HM195 about a year ago, thinking that it was a true 1080p because that is how Toshiba advertises the product. Last week I bought the PS3 which puts out a true 1080p output but my 56HM195 only excepts 1080i. I think this is the biggest scam! They don't state anywhere on their website that this tv is an upconversion 1080p.
Has anyone else fallen into this trap like me? If so do you plan to take legal action?

This is getting old. When you bought the TV there was limited if any 1080p source. Even today, there's virtually no difference viewing a 1080p source versus a 1080i source displayed at 1080p.

No scam involved. Just new marketing hype to make people thing they need 1080p input.

Fellas, if you have a toshiba that only "accepts" 1080i, does that mean you can't use a PS3 with it at all? That the TV will just not recognize the 1080p signal?

But if you can use the tosh with a PS3, how does it handle the 1080p signal? Does it "convert" the 1080p signal to 1080i?

and does the way it handles it cause the picture to lose resolution compared with if it did accept a 1080p signal?

I bought the 56HM195 about a year ago, thinking that it was a true 1080p because that is how Toshiba advertises the product. Last week I bought the PS3 which puts out a true 1080p output but my 56HM195 only excepts 1080i. I think this is the biggest scam! They don't state anywhere on their website that this tv is an upconversion 1080p.
Has anyone else fallen into this trap like me? If so do you plan to take legal action?

As enmoco and magredc5 have stated. This is common knowledge and not really an issue. The Tosh displays a 1080p pic but does not accept a 1080p signal.

Addtionally, think about it...if the TV displays 1080p (which it does VERY well) then wheres the scam???

Fellas, if you have a toshiba that only "accepts" 1080i, does that mean you can't use a PS3 with it at all? That the TV will just not recognize the 1080p signal?

But if you can use the tosh with a PS3, how does it handle the 1080p signal? Does it "convert" the 1080p signal to 1080i?

and does the way it handles it cause the picture to lose resolution compared with if it did accept a 1080p signal?

I have a PS3 hooked up to my 62HM195...the PS3 outputs 1080i (if you dont have a 1080p capable input) and looks great, no issues.

BTW..the PS3 comes with regular old video cables (you know those old yellow for vid and red and white for sound, almost forgot what they look like :) )..as the majority of people dont have HDTV (plus they wanted to save the $$$ and make you buy your own HDMI cable) and will use this at 480i.....

The scam, is they market the product at 1080p but it can't even accept a 1080p signal. This means its not a true 1080p. I spoke to their customer service and they stated that it converts all signals to 1080p. I bought this tv when it first came out and I was mislead by their advertising. By the way I think there is a lot of people on Toshiba's payroll here.

The scam, is they market the product at 1080p but it can't even accept a 1080p signal. This means its not a true 1080p. I spoke to their customer service and they stated that it converts all signals to 1080p. I bought this tv when it first came out and I was mislead by their advertising. By the way I think there is a lot of people on Toshiba's payroll here.

You weren't scammed by any interpretation of the word. You were too stupid to do your research.

The scam, is they market the product at 1080p but it can't even accept a 1080p signal. This means its not a true 1080p. I spoke to their customer service and they stated that it converts all signals to 1080p. I bought this tv when it first came out and I was mislead by their advertising. By the way I think there is a lot of people on Toshiba's payroll here.

?????????

It displays 1080p...is that not what you bought??

I was well aware when buying it that it did NOT accept a 1080p source but converted everything to 1080p...perhaps as Zissou stated you should have done a little more research :rolleyes:

Has anyone else fallen into this trap like me? If so do you plan to take legal action? You should now have some idea as how this forum works. If you make incorrect statements,then ask for the feedback from others,you should at least take into consideration that YOU may be mistaken in this issue you have. Arguing that we are employees of Toshiba is quite juvenile and shows little evidence of any ability to be enlightened on this subject. My response to your two questions would be no.

The scam, is they market the product at 1080p but it can't even accept a 1080p signal. This means its not a true 1080p. I spoke to their customer service and they stated that it converts all signals to 1080p. I bought this tv when it first came out and I was mislead by their advertising. By the way I think there is a lot of people on Toshiba's payroll here.
Their advertising never said it took a 1080P input. Just like Samsungs advertising never said it took 1080P over HDMI but it does over VGA. Which is what my 1080P Samsung does. It's right there in the specs for both TVs what resolutions can be input into each input. No mystery there. All you have to do is read.

The scam, is they market the product at 1080p but it can't even accept a 1080p signal. This means its not a true 1080p. I spoke to their customer service and they stated that it converts all signals to 1080p. I bought this tv when it first came out and I was mislead by their advertising. By the way I think there is a lot of people on Toshiba's payroll here.

Get educated, ... You might be interested in the following 1080i v. 1080p - Posted 1:57 PM ET by Geoffrey Morrison (http://blog.hometheatermag.com/geoffreymorrison/0807061080iv1080p/)

There has been a lot of concern and confusion over the difference between 1080i and 1080p. This stems from the inability of many TVs to accept 1080p. To make matters worse, the help lines at many of the TV manufacturers (that means you, Sony), are telling people that their newly-bought 1080p displays are really 1080i. They are idiots, so let me say this in big bold print, as far as movies are concerned THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 1080i AND 1080p. See, I did it in caps too, so it must be true. Let me explain (if your eyes glaze over, the short version is at the end).

For clarification, let me start by saying that there are essentially no 1080i TVs anymore.

Unless you bought a CRT based TV, every modern TV is progressive scan (as in LCD, Plasma, LCOS, DLP). They are incapable of displaying a 1080i signal as 1080i. So what we’re talking about here mostly applies to people with 1080p native displays.

Select the link above to read the entire article.

Geoffrey Morrison also wrote in his 1080i v. 1080p article (HT MAG. NOV 2006 Issue) ...

pg. 36

If the TV correctly deinterlaces 1080i, then there should be no visible difference between deinterlaced 1080i and direct 1080p (even with that extra step). There is no new information -- nor is there more resolution, as some people think. This is because ... there is no new information with the progressive signal. It's all based on the same original 24 frames per second.

Phil

You should now have some idea as how this forum works. If you make incorrect statements,then ask for the feedback from others,you should at least take into consideration that YOU may be mistaken in this issue you have. Arguing that we are employees of Toshiba is quite juvenile and shows little evidence of any ability to be enlightened on this subject. My response to your two questions would be no.

Well said.

The scam, is they market the product at 1080p but it can't even accept a 1080p signal. This means its not a true 1080p. I spoke to their customer service and they stated that it converts all signals to 1080p. I bought this tv when it first came out and I was mislead by their advertising. By the way I think there is a lot of people on Toshiba's payroll here.

If you read the TV's spec sheet before you bought, you'd read that it stated "New TALEN™ X 1080p Light Engine".

If you read this forum before you bought ("you bought about a year ago") the discussion on 1080p input support was well underway since only a few TVs offered it at a premium and there were no products that used 1080p video output.

If you read your owners manual after you bought you'd see in clear print that none of the inputs accept 1080p and you should have brought it back for a refund.

Maybe you should have gone out and compaired 1080i TVs to 1080p - EXCEPT there's no such thing as a 1080i TV!!! All digital HDTV displays are progressive, not interlaced (ever see a 720i TV display?) so the 1080 light engine by default is progressive.

And No, I'm not a Toshiba employee nor know anyone that is. Your implication is soooo transparent as a common comment when people have no valid argument to justify their weak position.

i am torn between the 62in dlp and the 47in regza. i can get both for the same price. i am really trying to justify getting the lcd but the difference is size is way to huge.

This is probably one of the most debated subjects in this thread. Maybe debated isn't the right word, questioned is probably closer. The bottom line is nobody has posted a successfull attempt at 1080p over any of the inputs reguardless of what Toshiba has told a number us. We all keep hoping it's going to happen but no one has got it to work yet. I'm begging to be proven wrong though.This quote,dated 11/07/2005, is from post #578 in this very thread. On the same page.seperated by 5 normal sized posts,is your first inquiry #584.You could have very easily seen this if you had any interest in finding out about your display before purchase.

Just slightly confused here, I also own the 56hm195 and fully understand it does not accept 1080 p directly, however when it is hooked up to the ps3 the tv display shows the signal as 1080i not 1080p . does that mean it is not converting to 1080 p? Some have posted here that it upconverts everything to 1080 p but even hooked up to my Directv h20 receiver of toshiba upconvert dvd player I have never seen the tv display list anything other than either 720p or 1080 i?

Just slightly confused here, I also own the 56hm195 and fully understand it does not accept 1080 p directly, however when it is hooked up to the ps3 the tv display shows the signal as 1080i not 1080p . does that mean it is not converting to 1080 p? Some have posted here that it upconverts everything to 1080 p but even hooked up to my Directv h20 receiver of toshiba upconvert dvd player I have never seen the tv display list anything other than either 720p or 1080 i?

What you see on the TV screen = 1080p

When you press the Toshiba Remote INFO button, the resolution value is the Video INput Resolution, i.e. 1080i, 720p, 480i/p.

The Toshiba 56HM195 will either ...

1) upconvert (480i/p, 720p) or

2) deinterlace (1080i - no conversion or scaling involved)

... ANY Video INput resolution signal = 1080p - the Native Resolution of your 56HM195.

Phil

I have a 62hm195 and I have a prob with my set. When the screen is black, the left side of the screen is much lighter than the right. Anyone else have this problem? any suggestions?
Any ideas?I have the same problem on a 56MX195.Except its reversed

Any ideas?I have the same problem on a 56MX195.Except its reversed

When that happened to my previous 56hm195, it was a bad light engine. When they replaced it with another, it went away. Would assume this may be a possible solution for you.

Ive got a question about a quirk with my Toshiba 62HM195. When I turn the set on, it sometimes turns itself off automatically within the first few second. And then sometimes it turns itself right back on. Sometimes off, then on then off again without me touching a button. Sometimes when it turns back on, I have a black screen. No picture. But then when I turn it off for a while, it normally will turn back on (with normal clear picture) Any ideas what my issue might be? Thanks!

Ive got a question about a quirk with my Toshiba 62HM195. When I turn the set on, it sometimes turns itself off automatically within the first few second. And then sometimes it turns itself right back on. Sometimes off, then on then off again without me touching a button. Sometimes when it turns back on, I have a black screen. No picture. But then when I turn it off for a while, it normally will turn back on (with normal clear picture) Any ideas what my issue might be? Thanks!

The only time I've seen that behavior is when I've upgraded the TV's firmware and it turns off and then on several times. This is usually because the lamp is hot and it cannot start immediately after turning it off so it backs off and then retries to start.

I believe this would be either caused by high temperature (which shouldn't be your case since the set had been off) or the system does not detect any light output of the lamp within the defined time so it shuts the lamp off and then tries again. This sounds like your problem and could be due to a failing lamp since it will retry several times before flashing the failed lamp sequence on the LEDs. Also the fact that it comes up with a black screen could mean it's coming on with enough light output to prevent another reset but not enough to display the picture.

If it's under warranty it would probably be wise to get someone to look at it, or the very least call Toshiba. If your set is included in the extended lamp warranty (2 years) then at least that's covered if it's the problem.

The only time I've seen that behavior is when I've upgraded the TV's firmware and it turns off and then on several times. This is usually because the lamp is hot and it cannot start immediately after turning it off so it backs off and then retries to start.

I believe this would be either caused by high temperature (which shouldn't be your case since the set had been off) or the system does not detect any light output of the lamp within the defined time so it shuts the lamp off and then tries again. This sounds like your problem and could be due to a failing lamp since it will retry several times before flashing the failed lamp sequence on the LEDs. Also the fact that it comes up with a black screen could mean it's coming on with enough light output to prevent another reset but not enough to display the picture.

If it's under warranty it would probably be wise to get someone to look at it, or the very least call Toshiba. If your set is included in the extended lamp warranty (2 years) then at least that's covered if it's the problem.

I agree with magredc5..it sounds like a lamp problem about to rear its ugly head...had this happen to me just before my bulb went...

If the blue LED on the ft of the set is on and the yellow LED blinks (which indicates a lamp issue) the set will try to reset itself up to 8 times, after that if you dont have a picture and you have the yellow and blue LED blink continuously then its a defective bulb...

Good Luck (i have 2 extra bulbs on hand just in case --- I know sick in the head :D )

thanks.shome
not exactly what I wanted to hear

thanks.shome
not exactly what I wanted to hear

Well, thats just an assessment based on what you said and what happened to me. You should definitely have a Technician look at it or get it replaced under a warranty if you still have one. I know it was annoying when it happened to me. :(

I personally don't consider a 1080p TV a true 1080p TV unless it can accept 1080p input signals from at least 1 input type. I also personally believe that it's kind of weak to accept it only over VGA. I really don't like to consider a TV to be true 1080p unless it will accept 1080p over HDMI at the very least. Of course I always make sure to qualify my statements as to what I choose to define "True 1080p" as. Since there's no official definition it's irresponsible to claim something is or isn't true 1080p without saying why it fails your own definition. Others may have a different belief about what makes a True 1080p and without stating it, you're left comparing "apples to oranges" as the old saying goes.

So... my definition of True 1080p includes not just the actual display, but also the input signal resolutions accepted.

If someone else's definition considers only the display, then all 1080p TV's are covered.

I guess what I'm saying is that there's a lot of subjectiveness going on here so we should all be careful to qualify our statements otherwise we might be misunderstood.

I may get slapped for this, but I am with you Pete. A display is not "TRUE" 1080P unless the native resolution (DLP chip) is 1920X1080 pixels. None of this bob and weave or wobble crap!

Another thing that bothers me is all the talk that 1080P is FULL HD. The accepted HD formats are 720P, 1080i and 1080P. A 720P signal/display IS full HD just like the other formats. It should be false advertising because basically they are claiming if you don't have 1080P you don't have full/real HD.

Ok, off my soapbox and I now return you to your regular post reading :)

This article explains 1080i v. 1080p by Geoffrey Morrison for HT Magazine (http://blog.hometheatermag.com/geoffreymorrison/0807061080iv1080p/) (some notable quotes) ...

There has been a lot of concern and confusion over the difference between 1080i and 1080p. This stems from the inability of many TVs to accept 1080p. To make matters worse, the help lines at many of the TV manufacturers (that means you, Sony), are telling people that their newly-bought 1080p displays are really 1080i. They are idiots, so let me say this in big bold print, as far as movies are concerned THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 1080i AND 1080p. See, I did it in caps too, so it must be true. Let me explain (if your eyes glaze over, the short version is at the end). ...

Short Version
What this all means is this:

• When it comes to movies (as in HD DVD and Blu-ray) there will be no visible difference between the 1080i signal and the 1080p signal, as long as your TV correctly de-interlaces 1080i. So even if you could input 1080p, you wouldn't see a difference (because there is none).

• There is no additional or new information in a 1080p signal from movie based content.

• The only time you would see a difference is if you have native 1080p/60 content, which at this point would only come from a PC and maybe the PS3. 1080p/60 does have more information than 1080i/30, but unless you're a gamer you will probably never see native 1080p/60 content. It is incredibly unlikely that they will ever broadcast 1080p (too much bandwidth) or that 1080p/60 content will show up on discs (too much storage space and no one is using it to record/film).

So all of you people who bought 1080p displays only to be told by the companies that you had bought 1080i TVs, relax. The TV will convert everything to 1080p. Now if you bought a TV that doesn't de-interlace 1080i correctly, well, that's a whole other story.

For more INFO, read the entire article linked above.

Phil

Yup, I 100% agree about the wobulation.

This article explains 1080i v. 1080p by Geoffrey Morrison for HT Magazine (http://blog.hometheatermag.com/geoffreymorrison/0807061080iv1080p/) (some notable quotes) ...



For more INFO, read the entire article linked above.

Phil

I disagree with "THERE IS NO DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 1080i AND 1080p". Mathmatically (objectively) this is completely false! Subjectively it's up to the person viewing it. Objectively, there is absolutely a difference.

Even the best de-interlacer cannot completely reproduce and exact image. You have to understand how interlacing occurs in order to understand why there's a difference. Basically though, an interlaced image is not the same as a still frame image. One part of the interlaced image will be from time slice T = 0, the next half of the interlaced image will be from timeslice T=1. ie, a slightly different progression in time.

If you try to put half an image from time T=0 and another half from Time T=1 back together you will NOT get the exact full image from either time T=0 or time T=1.

Even the best deinterlacer still has to put 2 slightly offset images together and will introduce some errors (deviations from a full frame).

So... lets see if I can state this in a more direct manner......

Take a bitmap of the exact full image at time T = 0 and time T = 1. Compare these 2 bitmaps with the bitmap of a deinterlaced image for the same time slices. They will NOT be the same. Thus, a deinterlaced image is NOT the same as the full image.

Notice that I am not arguing personal preference, viewing with the human eye, or any other type of subjective approach. Purely methmatically, the 2 are not the same.

Actually I would be just a tiny bit remiss if I didn't say this: There is one and only 1 instance where an interlaced image is exactly the same as a non-interlaced one. This is when viewing a still image. Whenever you have movement an interlaced one will not be the same. The larger the movement rate, the larger the difference.

I've tried to skip talking about "frames" and "fields" etc, but if you care I just searched on the web and found a really nice explanation of interlaced vs non-interlaced (progressive) specifically geared towards 1080i vs 1080p.

http://boardsus.playstation.com/playstation/board/message?board.id=ps3&thread.id=938503
See Section B: Interlaced vs. Progressive

I should probably clarify one thing before I get flamed...

Yes I did see the qualifing statement: "as far as movies are concerned ".
And yes, this is also untrue for the same reason: Whenever there is motion, interlaced is not as good as progrssive.

I should probably clarify one thing before I get flamed...

Yes I did see the qualifing statement: "as far as movies are concerned ".
And yes, this is also untrue for the same reason: Whenever there is motion, interlaced is not as good as progrssive.

That article apparently went completely over your head.

He is specifically talking about fully recovering 24Hz progressive frames from a box sending 30i, which can be done. This is what reverse 3:2 pulldown is.

That article apparently went completely over your head.

He is specifically talking about fully recovering 24Hz progressive frames from a box sending 30i, which can be done. This is what reverse 3:2 pulldown is.

Yes, with 3:2 pulldown you will definitely recover all the frames but in between them will also be some inaccurate frames.

The frames go something like:
1, hybrid of 1 & 2, 2, 2, hybrid of 2 & 3, 3, etc...

I made this up in my head so please don't crucify me if I am off a little. ;-)


So, I'm guessing that's what you intended to show. Also, that's what can be gleamed from the full article. It's not what can be gleamed from the quote of the article which is why I decided to post.

Hope I didn't offend you. Thanks for the polite reply too!

The following is from "The Perfect Vision" Winter 2007 Magazine - Review Toshiba 72HM196 by Scott Wilkinson (some notable quotes) ...

page 84
Looking at a pixel-phase test pattern (which indicates the relationship between the imager's actual pixel structure and the pixels in the processed image), Dave and I determined that the NATURAL aspect-ratio setting looks like a 1:1 mode -- that is, we were able to easily discern each pixel in the imager.

Conclusion
The importance of a 1:1 mode cannot be overstated when it comes to 1920x1080 content -- without it, whatever scaling the processor does definitely degrades the image. This is one reason the 72HM196 looked so good displaying HD DVDs (as long as its NATURAL aspect ratio was selected). Another factor is its apparent use of inverse telecine to deinterlace 1080i content, resulting in smooth, artifact-free motion.

page 83
The Last Word
- 1:1 mode makes 1920x1080 content look exceptionally detailed and sharp
- Excellent deinterlacing
- 12-bit processing results in smooth brightness gradients

Definitely love my Digital Video Essentials DVD video calibrated 1080p 62" Toshiba 62HM196!!! :) ;) :D :rolleyes:

Phil

Yes, with 3:2 pulldown you will definitely recover all the frames but in between them will also be some inaccurate frames.

The frames go something like:
1, hybrid of 1 & 2, 2, 2, hybrid of 2 & 3, 3, etc...

I made this up in my head so please don't crucify me if I am off a little. ;-)


You still don't get it, and you're confusing your terms.

Consider what happens at three points in time, 0T, 1T, and 2T, where T is 1/24th of a second. For the 24Hz progressive original:

0T: Frame 0
1T: Frame 1
2T: Frame 2

For the 30i interlaced signal
0T: Odd field of Frame 0
.4T: Even field of Frame 0
.8T: Odd field of Frame 0
1.2T: Even field of Frame 1
1.6T: Odd field of Frame 1
2T: Even field of Frame 2
etc.

You can see that for every frame, all of the information is there (both odd and even fields) for the deinterlacer to completely reassemble the original 24Hz progressive frames. Putting the frames back together correctly (odd and even fields of frame 1 together, odd and even fields of frame 2 together) rather than mixing fields from adjacent frames is what a good deinterlacer does. This is called reverse 3:2 pulldown because it reverses the 3:2 pulldown done when creating the interlaced fields.

I might have gotten odd and even reversed but it doesn't matter. For a better explanation of this with graphics, see http://www.dvdfile.com/news/special_report/production_a_z/3_2_pulldown.htm

Cool, I learned something new today.

This was not my understanding of the deinterlacing from movies (as shown in my little counting diagram). Of course, it looks likes the reverse 3:2 pulldown is not implemented in all line doublers so perhaps I was thinking of the crappy versions?

Anyway, you're link clearly illustrates your point.

Hello all, I confess I have not read all posts regarding the 62hm196 as of yet. I would appreciate any suggestions for the best set up on this tv (sound picture etc.), as all I'm using is the cable card at this time.
Thank you to all.

Piturra, do you have a # for that calibration dvd? Is it easy to use? Thank You, Rick

Piturra, do you have a # for that calibration dvd? Is it easy to use? Thank You, Rick
Here's the SD DVD version Digital Video Essentials for $16.48 w/FREE SH @ DeepDiscountDVD.com (http://www.deepdiscountdvd.com/dvd.cfm?itemID=VMG010712) ...

and if you are willing to wait, you can pre-order the HD DVD Hybrid (SD DVD on the otherside) for $21.21 w/FREE SH (http://www.deepdiscountdvd.com/dvd.cfm?itemID=DVI153001)

Meanwhile, read my 62HM196 Calibration & Subjective review (http://www.epinions.com/content_289225346692) for my display calibration video setup values which will get you started, but after you get your DVE or HD DVE, you can finally nail-down with accuracy your Color & Tint, using the Blue Filter, .... Contrast and Brightness using the Pluge Test Screen, Just turn the Sharpness = 0.

Phil

Thank You Piturra. I can wait? Do you know when the hybrid DVD will be available?
Is it normal for the black bars on either side of the pic. to be of different widths (1/2in or so), and when I have horizontal black bars the top bar is wider on the right side as compared to the left side? Thank You again. I'm going to check your review now.

Excuse me if I'm wet behind the ears, but what does SD DVD on the otherside mean?
Should I adjust all settings now per your calibration review or wait till I recieve the calibration DVD? I'm very much appreciate your guidance.

Oops I forgot, all that is hooked up to the tv is the Time Warner HD-DVR cable box. The tech. couldn't figure out how to make the cable card work, so I took the cable box so I can be sure to have HD for next weekend.

Thank You Piturra. I can wait? Do you know when the hybrid DVD will be available?

Release Date: 02/27/07

Is it normal for the black bars on either side of the pic. to be of different widths (1/2in or so), and when I have horizontal black bars the top bar is wider on the right side as compared to the left side? Thank You again. I'm going to check your review now.

No, sounds like your screen is not aligned correctly. Call Toshiba CS to have that corrected by a local authorized Service Center.

Excuse me if I'm wet behind the ears, but what does SD DVD on the otherside mean?

It means that one side is the HD DVD side and the otherside of the DVD is the regular (non HD) DVD - playable on any regular non-HD DVD player. Usually the band around the alignment hole will tell you which side you're playing. (like "Superman Returns" HD DVD)

Should I adjust all settings now per your calibration review or wait till I recieve the calibration DVD? I'm very much appreciate your guidance.

You can use my calibrated settings for now, then after you get your DVE DVD or HD DVD, you can do a more accurate video calibration.

Oops I forgot, all that is hooked up to the tv is the Time Warner HD-DVR cable box. The tech. couldn't figure out how to make the cable card work, so I took the cable box so I can be sure to have HD for next weekend.

OK, then start with my Cable TV - Digital & HD: - Picture Settings (from my 62HM196 review w/updates)

Contrast...........80
Brightness........52
Color.................49
Tint.....................0
Sharpness.........0
- Advanced Picture Settings
Dynamic Contrast:.....ON
DNR:..........................AUTO
MPEG Noise Reduction: HIGH
Color Temperature:....Warm
Lamp Mode:............Low Power
- Theater Settings
Picture Size:.........Natural
Cinema Mode:..........Film
Auto Aspect Ratio:....On

... and do minor adjustments as required, based on what you see.

Phil

A big thanks Pituura.

Contrast...........80 ??????????????

Contrast...........80 ??????????????
From Tests and Calibration webpage - Ultimate AV Toshiba 62HM196 Review (http://www.ultimateavmag.com/rearprojectiontvs/806tosh62hm/index4.html) ...
I was surprised by the Toshiba's maximum brightness, but not in the way you might expect. It was noticeably lower, by measurement, than I've seen recently on other new digital displays. But I consider this a plus, not a minus. Most modern digital sets are far too bright for viewing in subdued room lighting—the sort of lighting best for serious movie watching—and don't "dial-down" well. That is, attempts to reduce their light output merely squash the video dynamic range. (This is not a problem on CRTs because their blacks are so much deeper than modern digital displays to begin with.)

Like several displays I've seen recently, you can run the Toshiba's Contrast control all the way up to 100 without clipping the peak whites. At this setting, with the lamp set to its High Bright position, Dynamic Contrast On, I measured a peak white level of just under 84 foot-Lamberts. At this setting the video black level was 0.035fL, for an impressive real-world peak contrast ratio of 2393:1.

But the light output was a more comfortable match for movie watching with the lamp on the Low Power setting and the Contrast control on 75. In this situation, with Dynamic Contrast still engaged, the peak white reading was 41.34fL and the video black 0.024FL, for a peak contrast of 1723:1. Not as impressive, you say? True, if contrast ratio is your only criterion. But the improved blacks, plus the higher comfort level of the lower peak white level in a dimly lit room, wins for me. Want a compromise? When I increased the Contrast control to 100, lamp on Low Power, I obtained a Contrast ratio of 2500:1 (peak white 60fL, video black 0.024fL).

For my 62HM196, a Contrast ratio 80 (HDTV and VCR) works best in my HT/family room! I use a Contrast ratio 85 for my SD & HD DVDs.

"Poseidon" HD DVD 3D depth and image punch looked glorious!!! :D ;) :)

Turning the Dynamic Contrast off only made a small change in the peak white level, and left the black level unchanged. But it did slightly improve the punch of the image so I left it on for most of the measurements and viewing tests.

I only use the Dynamic Contrast ON for my HDTV & VCR viewing. I turn it OFF when I'm viewing my SD & HD DVDs.

Phil

From Tests and Calibration webpage - Ultimate AV Toshiba 62HM196 Review (http://www.ultimateavmag.com/rearprojectiontvs/806tosh62hm/index4.html) ...


For my 62HM196, a Contrast ratio 80 (HDTV and VCR) works best in my HT/family room! I use a Contrast ratio 85 for my SD & HD DVDs.

"Poseidon" HD DVD 3D depth and image punch looked glorious!!! :D ;) :)



I only use the Dynamic Contrast ON for my HDTV & VCR viewing. I turn it OFF when I'm viewing my SD & HD DVDs.

Phil

I agree with your settings although I'm on the MX195. After trying several things over the past 18 months I've come to conclusion that:

- Turning Dynamic Contrast ON improves overall depth. I tried it OFF found it was hard to get a good balance between contrast and brightness.
- Although the manual states otherwise, if you have DC ON you can still adjust Contrast - the higher the contrast the brighter the picture. It's as if the Contrast setting is used by DC to define it's range. To prove this, check the SPORTS setting which is set at Contrast 100, Dynamic Contrast ON and Brightness at 50. If you compare that to a custom setting with everything the same except Contrast at something lower than 100 (say 50) and switch back and forth you'll see the difference.
- Based on this, I set my Contrast to 75-80 with DC ON.

I also agree that different channels seem to require different settings. I wish there was more than one custom setting so you could switch easily between them depending on the channel/content.

I agree with your settings although I'm on the MX195. After trying several things over the past 18 months I've come to conclusion that:

- Turning Dynamic Contrast ON improves overall depth. I tried it OFF found it was hard to get a good balance between contrast and brightness.
- Although the manual states otherwise, if you have DC ON you can still adjust Contrast - the higher the contrast the brighter the picture. It's as if the Contrast setting is used by DC to define it's range. To prove this, check the SPORTS setting which is set at Contrast 100, Dynamic Contrast ON and Brightness at 50. If you compare that to a custom setting with everything the same except Contrast at something lower than 100 (say 50) and switch back and forth you'll see the difference.
- Based on this, I set my Contrast to 75-80 with DC ON.

I also agree that different channels seem to require different settings. I wish there was more than one custom setting so you could switch easily between them depending on the channel/content."Sports" setting also mandates the "high" setting on the lamp power. Not adjustable in "sports"

Has anyone heard of a service menu through your remote which can only be used by a service repair person? I was told adjustments can be made through this menu (ie:picture alignment), the only problem is getting the code to get into it. Thanks to all

tt-maz:First, The picture is appearing tilted upwards to the right. Any reasonthis may be happening and is there a way to deal with this myself?

I have the same problem on a few tvs that I've had. Is there a solution to this without having to take the tv back or having to pay somebody a stupid amount of money to fix something that should've been right in the first place?

zero_zep,

I havent brought it in under warranty yet im waiting till i leave the country for a week or two so i can go without having it.....this problem should be covered by warranty id think anyways..

"Sports" setting also mandates the "high" setting on the lamp power. Not adjustable in "sports"

That made sense but I just double checked and Sports does not change the lamp to high brite - it'll will leave it on low if that's what it's set to. And I was wrong about my contrast setting - I have it at 65 (with DC on).

That made sense but I just double checked and Sports does not change the lamp to high brite - it'll will leave it on low if that's what it's set to. And I was wrong about my contrast setting - I have it at 65 (with DC on).Guess it's different on the MX then.Settings other than "preference" just revert over to preference when adjusted on the HM series.

Hi,

I just received my new 72 inch on Monday and I am afraid I may have an issue. It seems that there is a bit of a focus issue on both HD feeds and Sd feeds. When trying to watch a hockey game on HD last night, it was almost unbearable. Anytime there was motion the picture would sort of blur.
I have also noticed on SD feeds, if I watch a stock ticker going by the screen, you can see the blurring as the text scrolls by.

Should I be calling for some warranty work?

Thanks,
Tim

Hi,

I just received my new 72 inch on Monday and I am afraid I may have an issue. It seems that there is a bit of a focus issue on both HD feeds and Sd feeds. When trying to watch a hockey game on HD last night, it was almost unbearable. Anytime there was motion the picture would sort of blur.
I have also noticed on SD feeds, if I watch a stock ticker going by the screen, you can see the blurring as the text scrolls by.

Should I be calling for some warranty work?

Thanks,
TimIf you have a DVD player hooked up,what does it look like? If clean,you have an input problem(cable,sat,or ota)really,that sounds like your problem IMHO........Good luck

Blurring and macroblocks during fast motion are the result of a highly compressed HD signals, typical of cable providers trying to conserve bandwidth. The lower bitrates they are using to save space are OK for low action film based sources, but terrible for video based sporting events. This is something that is really noticeable in some sports programming.

It's not the TV. Your DVD's look fine, right?

Thanks folks, I believe you are bang on. I should have also said that I set everything to what Piturra listed in an earlier post.
I haven't had a chance to test my DVD's yet due to a cable issue. This will be fixed tonight so I can tet the DVD.
I spoke with a friend last night that runs a Hitachi 57F59 CRT RPTV and he sees the same things as me.

Thanks for the insight. It is a fantastic TV!

Hey guys Im new here and am pretty confused. I recently bought the 62hm196. Whenever I watch tv it shows my tv as always being shown in 480i. How do you change this option?? Also what is the best way for me to hook up my dvd player and HD cable box?? Any help would be appreciated Im pretty confused. Thanks again

Hey guys Im new here and am pretty confused. I recently bought the 62hm196. Whenever I watch tv it shows my tv as always being shown in 480i. How do you change this option?? Also what is the best way for me to hook up my dvd player and HD cable box?? Any help would be appreciated Im pretty confused. Thanks again

How are you configured? Cable Box or CableCard? I'm assuming you're using a box.

If you're using a cable box then you need to ensure the box is set to output at either 720p or 1080i. When your TV shows 480i that means the input is at that resolution - the display's native resolution is always 1080p but lower resolution input sources will not benefit from that. Just make sure you're on an HD channel. There should be a way to bring up the setup menu in the box and properly set the output resolution and other settings.

Component cables are fine to get started. If you can use HDMI cables, the benefit is that the signal will be digital from the box to the TV. With component, the signal is being converted to an analog medium then reconverted in the TV again.

If you are watching regular non-digital cable it will only be in 480i. If you have your cable box, satellite receiver, DVD, or whatever hooked up via a S-video or regular RCA video cable you will only see 480i. It is not a setting you choose. It is automatically detected.

To get the higher resolution you need to use the three color component cables, DVI>HDMI cable, or HDMI connections. The only advantage of HDMI is it carries the audio signal as well as the video so you only need one cable to hook everything up instead of separate audio and video cables.

ok, I am having an odd issue with my tv. 56mx195. I have had it for year and a few months. Anyway recently I notied that the right half of the screen is brighter than the left half. Its almost like the right side is a bit washed out. I tried messing with the settings no luck.

It is visable mostly on black scenes. It a simliar issue from multiple viewing angles. It happens acorss all inputs dvd, satalite, xbox etc at every resolution. I do have a service plan so its still covered by a warantee. Anyone have any idea what might cause this or seen it before. The line of darker versus lighter is strait and its actually a little lighter in top and granduated a bit towards the bottom and limited to the right side only litterly from the blue light right.

I do love this TV and other than not accepting 1080p in from the vga I have no regrets.

p.s. I have already replaced the bulb about 7 months ago.

ok, I am having an odd issue with my tv. 56mx195. I have had it for year and a few months. Anyway recently I notied that the right half of the screen is brighter than the left half. Its almost like the right side is a bit washed out. I tried messing with the settings no luck.

The exact same problem I am having with my 56HM195.... right half of the screen has a brighter area... almost a perfect straight division in the center... mostly visible in dark or transitions.. like going to a commercial..... at first I thought it was my eyes, then I thought it was a reflection.... but after looking at the set in complete darkness on an input with no source attached I could see it very plainly....

It is a light engine problem.... there have been a few other posts about this problem
Luckily I contacted Toshiba about the problem 1 week before my year was up...

Since this will be the 4th light engine in a year, Toshiba is going to replace my set with a 62HM196.... I am trying to hold out for a 57HM167, but being in Canada we always get the new sets a few months after they show up in the U.S. so I don't know if that will work.

Anyway - you have an extended warranty so things should get fixed up one way or another

Don

I'll have to call the people then to get it fixed

The exact same problem I am having with my 56HM195.... right half of the screen has a brighter area... almost a perfect straight division in the center... mostly visible in dark or transitions.. like going to a commercial..... at first I thought it was my eyes, then I thought it was a reflection.... but after looking at the set in complete darkness on an input with no source attached I could see it very plainly....

It is a light engine problem.... there have been a few other posts about this problem
Luckily I contacted Toshiba about the problem 1 week before my year was up...

Since this will be the 4th light engine in a year, Toshiba is going to replace my set with a 62HM196.... I am trying to hold out for a 57HM167, but being in Canada we always get the new sets a few months after they show up in the U.S. so I don't know if that will work.

Anyway - you have an extended warranty so things should get fixed up one way or another

Don

Same problem I had with my 56HM195. Toshiba replaced it with a 62HM196, a vast improvement IMO. :D

Lets hope the service people I deal with are as generous. I would like a large TV. :)

Same problem I had with my 56HM195. Toshiba replaced it with a 62HM196, a vast improvement IMO.

How do you find the PQ on the 196 vs the 195.... I have heard that it is better... just looking for your thoughts.

Don

I wonder why I have no issues with my 72hm195? It is the model with the supposed weak bulb giving me the extra year of warranty. I have had the TV almost the two years now and on the original bulb. I have even taken my TV out of the house, in the back of a pick up, up to the local bar while it was snowing, where we used it for the Superbowl. Then back to the house.

No issues for me except once a bug was able to crawl up in it. I could see his shadow reflected on the inside of the screen where he must have been crawling across the light engine or something because it was about a one foot shadow of the bug. Drove me crazy for a week until he died or crawled out.

I do fully expect the bulb to blow the day after my warranty is up though.

I guess I do have one minor problem in that TGOS has never worked. I called TCS but when the TGOS guy called me back I wasn't home and I never followed back up with it.

Hey

Do you know if there is a real differences between a Canadian model and a US model for the Samsung HLR6168 ?

I moved from Canada to the US and I have some shadows at the corners now but Samsung doesn t want to repair it cause I am in the US now and they are saying the parts are different inside...electronics maybe but the light engine should be the same no ?

I had 5 months ago the big shadow bar on that model and was fixed by changing the light engine but cause Samsung do refurbishing now the tv have again a problem... That model is really a ****** one when I a see every people who have the same issue and for that price.

Well if someone can confirm me if it s the same parts inside that will be nice

Thx.

Hey

Do you know if there is a real differences between a Canadian model and a US model for the Samsung HLR6168 ?

I moved from Canada to the US and I have some shadows at the corners now but Samsung doesn t want to repair it cause I am in the US now and they are saying the parts are different inside...electronics maybe but the light engine should be the same no ?

I had 5 months ago the big shadow bar on that model and was fixed by changing the light engine but cause Samsung do refurbishing now the tv have again a problem... That model is really a ****** one when I a see every people who have the same issue and for that price.

Well if someone can confirm me if it s the same parts inside that will be nice

Thx.

I'd recommend reposting your question in the Samsung DLP thread.

This thread deals with "Toshiba 1080p DLPs "!

Phil

How do you find the PQ on the 196 vs the 195.... I have heard that it is better... just looking for your thoughts.

Don

I find the PQ better, the black levels better, the color better, the size better, the ..... well you get the point don't ya :D :D

I find the PQ better, the black levels better, the color better, the size better, the ..... well you get the point don't ya :D :D

Thanks for the reply... nice to hear... I still am trying to hold out for the 57HM167... but If I end up with a 62HM196 things won't be too bad.... I am just worried that a 62" set will just be TOO big for the room it is in....

Don

Thanks for the reply... nice to hear... I still am trying to hold out for the 57HM167... but If I end up with a 62HM196 things won't be too bad.... I am just worried that a 62" set will just be TOO big for the room it is in....

Don

No problem. IMO, after awhile, even a 62" starts to look smaller. Go larger, you'll end up happier in the long run.

Thanks for the reply... nice to hear... I still am trying to hold out for the 57HM167... but If I end up with a 62HM196 things won't be too bad.... I am just worried that a 62" set will just be TOO big for the room it is in....

Don

I have the 72" and sit 7' from it. Your room is not to small.

I have the 72" and sit 7' from it. Your room is not to small.

It is not so much the picture size but more the physical size of the set that I am concerned about.... it will be a tight fit down the very narrow staircase into my basement... have to get a new stand and move speakers..... a 57 inch will just drop right in.

Anyway - I have to say that Toshibas CS has been pretty good.

Don

Just thought I'd give you all an update on my half screen brighter than the other.

The tech called me on the phone, and I described the problem he said, "looks like its the light engine. I will order the parts. Should be about 3-5 days."

That was 1 month ago. After 1 week, I began calling the people resonsible for the "out of warantee" repair. They informed me they are waiting on one part, not the light engine, some other board and it was back ordered directly from toshiba.

I have not yet called toshiba directly since it is out of warantee I can't imagine them giving me the time of day. Not sure the best recourse is here. Anyone have any suggestions.

Luckily the problem is relatively minor in the bigger scheme of things as the TV does work and only has issues in dark scenes or transitions.

I too have the right half bright/washed out problem, and I'm also out of warranty (unless my Visa debit card really does double the warranty -- anyone know about that?). I can live with it.

hey guys. just wondering how the PQ is between the 196 models vs the 167 models? was thinking of getting a 72HM196 but the new models are coming out soon. what are the other significant differences between the two models? i know the new 167 has native 1080p input. also, does anyone know where to find the 72MX196 model in Canada, either an actual place or website? thanks guys.

Geez..... I have the same issue rearing its ugly head. The right half is brighter than the left, out of warranty, etc. I can live with it, but I am concerned about it becoming progressively worse.

My "right side bright" problem's been about the same for three or four months. If it is progressive, it's very slowly so.

I found to to be a pretty stable issue. Allthough it does seem to be brighter and what not on occassion. I have a service plan on mine so it will eventually get fixed. Im not sure what a legitment time frame is. I personally plan on very shortly calling them and simply saying that the service plan says if you can't fix the tv I get a new one.

I think if they can't get parts for over a month and half that qualifies as not being able to fix it.

Not sure how well that will work but I am certainly going to start being a bit nastier. I paid a fairly decent amount for the plan so I expect to be taken care of.

I do believe that this will be the first and last toshiba I ever buy. First it was the bulbs, and now multiple reports of light engine failer just out of warantee. These sorts of things are just unacceptable good picture quality or not.

Well, after nearly 3 months of not being able to get the parts they decided to replace my TV. Not sure what thats going to be procedure wise.

Any thoughts on what I should be looking at replacement wise? I currently have a 56mx195 and up until it broke I was really happy with it.