They did make good, shipped a new one (at least I'm pretty sure). Arrived Friday unit works great. I found it odd they did not question me on any of this. I could have bounced it down the stairs for all they know.They just took my word for it and sent a new one. They also took the old on back at the same time. It makes me wonder if they did not know it was used all the time. No way of knowing though.

I just scored me an 811 HD receiver (dishnet) for $90.00 on ebay. So I'm ready for some HD (if I can figure it all out).

Later


I love a happy ending. I'll be ordering mine on Monday.

Cheers,

Ed.

Just curious how many hours people have been using the RD50A in a day. Right now my RD50A is in the DVD viewing room. Meaning it only gets used for DVD movies and very little of anything else. I recently purchased an Infocus 4805 that will be taking over our DVD movie duties. So I want to move the RD50A into our living room. The only problem I see with that is the TV in our living room is pretty much on all day. Will the RD50A be able to handle this?

Thanks,

Just a followup on "recent" orders of the RD50A from VA. I got mine today. The box was in perfect condition. The TV was in perfect condition and functions as expected.

Looks great to my eyes, although I have only seen DVDs on it. I have to wait until Friday for the HDTV feed.

Cheers,

Ed.

@Donovoid: for US users the refresh rate should be 60hz like the ntsc standard....

I don`t know what you are doing wrong, but a newer Pc easily recognizes this Tv on its own.
Its like you are connecting a TFT display with 1280x720 to a PC. Just get to video properties and configure this.


@all_other : The performance jump after tuning the TV settings in service menu was extreme, at least for my european version...

Picture now easily kills every bigger size cinema in terms of colour reproduction. :) lol

Sharpness also is very good....
The TV naturally has the better realtive resolution compared to cinema ( size/resolution ratio)
For the money the best deal I ever made.

The only thing I real hate:
-slow remote
-bad calibration at delivery - can be fixed easily over service menu - was quite shocked at delivery day -> green tint.
-only few people know how good this TV can be.

Has anyone else noticed a high-pitched noise when their RD50A is on?

Mine has a subtle high-pitched noise (could be the fan, although I can hear a lower-pitched fan sound too). I can sometimes even hear it while watching a show. Has anone else noticed this?

Ed.

Haven't heard a higher pitched sound. I do here the fan or colorwheel when I have the volume turned down a little lower at night which would not be described at high pitched. I am assuming that is normal but if it is not someone let me know.

I am considering purchasing an Optoma RD50 from Costco.ca. I'm not sure if it's an RD50 or an RD50A (It's listed as an RD50 so I'm assuming it's a first generation.) If that's the case, what are the differences between the RD50 and the RD50A ? I have a detailed spec sheet for the RD50A but I cannot find one for the RD50. I understand the RD50 DVI Port is not HDCP Compliant where the RD50A's is. Are there any other significant differences I should consider before deciding on the RD50 or holding out for an RD50A or something else ? I'm looking for something affordable but I do not want it to be obsolete before it get's delivered to my door.

I am considering purchasing an Optoma RD50 from Costco.ca. I'm not sure if it's an RD50 or an RD50A (It's listed as an RD50 so I'm assuming it's a first generation.) If that's the case, what are the differences between the RD50 and the RD50A ? I have a detailed spec sheet for the RD50A but I cannot find one for the RD50. I understand the RD50 DVI Port is not HDCP Compliant where the RD50A's is. Are there any other significant differences I should consider before deciding on the RD50 or holding out for an RD50A or something else ? I'm looking for something affordable but I do not want it to be obsolete before it get's delivered to my door.

You can view the RD50 specs on the Optoma web site, http://www.optomatv.com/Content/RD50.asp

I have a two year old RD50 that was upgraded to an RD50H. I'm happy with it, but would want a newer RD50A if I were buying today. You can buy an RD50A from Visual Apex (see sponsor link at the top of the page) for the same price in US dollars. You would have to pay $399.00 to upgrade the RD50 to RD50H (making it HDCP compliant).

Just curious how many hours people have been using the RD50A in a day. Right now my RD50A is in the DVD viewing room. Meaning it only gets used for DVD movies and very little of anything else. I recently purchased an Infocus 4805 that will be taking over our DVD movie duties. So I want to move the RD50A into our living room. The only problem I see with that is the TV in our living room is pretty much on all day. Will the RD50A be able to handle this?

Thanks,

I have mine in an apartment with 2 other guys and it seems like it is never off. There is always something on that someone wants to watch and so far it hasnt showed any sign of problems.

I received this tv in mid august and probably average about 4-8 hours a day on it.

Hope that helps.

Just curious how many hours people have been using the RD50A in a day. Right now my RD50A is in the DVD viewing room. Meaning it only gets used for DVD movies and very little of anything else. I recently purchased an Infocus 4805 that will be taking over our DVD movie duties. So I want to move the RD50A into our living room. The only problem I see with that is the TV in our living room is pretty much on all day. Will the RD50A be able to handle this?

Thanks,

Ours is on probably 12 hours a day. We do a lot of cable music and my wife likes to see who's playing. Then she's got Oprah, Doctor Phil and a few others.

At night we use it, again for cable music for dinner. Then it's mine from 8-11.

We had a bulb sitch, but I think that was a glitch because the warning showed up very shortly after I replaced it and reset the bulb timer. Gonna' have to ring up Optoma on that.

Otherwise. It seems to take the punishment in stride.

I ordered my RD50 from Costco.ca. I e-mailed Optoma and asked about the RD50 HDCP Compliance and they told me that they ran out of the Non-HDCP RD50s in April, and re-supplied costco since, so it seems unlikely that I will get a non-HDCP Compliant model.

"We ran out of the non HDCP product in April of 2005 and I know we fullfilled
Costco's inventory 4 months ago, so the chances of you having or getting a
non HDCP TV are extremely low, the serial number will be able to confirm"

So I'm hoping for a HDCP Compliant RD50(A).

I received my RD50 today. Love the look and love the picture quality. Standard Def Cable is much better than I was expecting. I'm quite impressed. DVDs look great too. However I'm having a problem with the Cable Tuner. After watching Cable TV for a while 0.5-1 hour, the Video disappears and all I get is a Blue screen, Audio continues normally. PIP windows has video but only blue in main screen. The only way to restore it is to shut down and pull the plug for about half an hour, then fire it up again. Anyone else experience this kind of a problem ?

I received my RD50 today. Love the look and love the picture quality. Standard Def Cable is much better than I was expecting. I'm quite impressed. DVDs look great too. However I'm having a problem with the Cable Tuner. After watching Cable TV for a while 0.5-1 hour, the Video disappears and all I get is a Blue screen, Audio continues normally. PIP windows has video but only blue in main screen. The only way to restore it is to shut down and pull the plug for about half an hour, then fire it up again. Anyone else experience this kind of a problem ?

Do you have an RD50 or an RD50A? If its an RD50, its not HDCP compliant, which could cause the screen to go blank as you describe when viewing through the DVI output of the cable box.

Wayne,

My Optoma RD-50 will go to the blue screen when I'm connected to my computer, and the computer goes into power save mode. Have you tried changing channels on the cable box when the picture goes blue? Perhaps there is a setting on the cable box (such as TV Type) that is triggering a power save mode for a TV such as a plasma that is prone to burn in.

Does your cable box have DVI and Component Out? If you are connected with component, HDCP wouldn't be an issue.

Mark

Not using a cable box. Cable connected directly to ANT1 and ANT2 Inputs. Blue screen problem seems to have corrected itself for main Viewing Screen, but still getting blue screen on POP window, although PIP window works fine !? I Can display second channel on PIP window and surf no problem, but switch to POP and POP screen is Blue.
Also I was playing an xBox game today and I got a warning that my Lamp was nearing it's end of life and to contact Optoma for a replacement. This in a brand new TV ! with 8000 hr lamp life !. Why would I be getting this warning ?

{/QUOTE}Also I was playing an xBox game today and I got a warning that my Lamp was nearing it's end of life and to contact Optoma for a replacement. This in a brand new TV ! with 8000 hr lamp life !. Why would I be getting this warning ?[/QUOTE]

I had the lamp message after about 700 hours. It is a problem with the microprocessor I am told. All you have to do is go into the service menu and reset the hours on the bulb. I did that and mine works fine. I think to get to the service menu it is 6-1-9 but I can't remember. However, it is posted in a couple of places on this thread.

Can't help with your other issues.

Wayne,

Sounds like a problem in the TV, losing its input signal. I would call Optoma and see what they have to say. You may want to check the coax cable from the wall outlet to the TV to make sure it isn't damaged that may be causing the problem.

Mark

How do you access the service menu on the RD50 ? 6-1-9 does not work on it's own. Do you need to press some other buttons first ?

Wayne,

Press Menu, 6-1-9, then menu to get to the service menu. To get back out, from a blank screen, press Menu, 6-1-9, then you are back to the normal menu.

Mark

I have something that is irritating on my 65 , When I change from SD input to HD input, the HD input always jumps fwd one step to PC1. I last viewed the HD input in HD2. So then I have to switch all the way thru to HD2. Plus its very slow to respond when switching thru the inputs.

Now when I change from HD to SD input it will not jump fwd at all.

Also is there a way to delete some of the non-used inputs so that they don't show up when changing inputs?

I think the default (on my 50) sequence is PC1, PC2, HD1, then HD2, when pushing the "HDs" button on th remote.

I'm pretty sure the 65 works the same way as the 50. I don't use the "HDs" or "SDs" buttons. I use the "INFO +" buttons; just like the ctrl + c on a computer to copy.

If you press "Info" + 1, the TV selects AV1. If you press "Info" + 8, the TV selects HD2. This way, one doesn't have to toggle between all the sources. The order is +1=AV1, +2=AV2, +3=AV3, +4=SD, +5=PC1, +6=PC2, +7=HD1 and +8=HD2. Info + CH^=Tuner 1 and +CH(down)=Tuner 2.

The Info + buttons can also be used to program a leaning remote, but once I got used to the buttons, the factory remote becomes much more usable.

Mark

I think the default (on my 50) sequence is PC1, PC2, HD1, then HD2, when pushing the "HDs" button on th remote.

I'm pretty sure the 65 works the same way as the 50. I don't use the "HDs" or "SDs" buttons. I use the "INFO +" buttons; just like the ctrl + c on a computer to copy.

If you press "Info" + 1, the TV selects AV1. If you press "Info" + 8, the TV selects HD2. This way, one doesn't have to toggle between all the sources. The order is +1=AV1, +2=AV2, +3=AV3, +4=SD, +5=PC1, +6=PC2, +7=HD1 and +8=HD2. Info + CH^=Tuner 1 and +CH(down)=Tuner 2.

The Info + buttons can also be used to program a leaning remote, but once I got used to the buttons, the factory remote becomes much more usable.

Mark

Thanks Mark! That makes it much easier! :)

Wayne,

Press Menu, 6-1-9, then menu to get to the service menu. To get back out, from a blank screen, press Menu, 6-1-9, then you are back to the normal menu.

Mark

Wayne,

Once in the service menu, the option to reset the lamp hours is under the heading on the far right...I think it says Info.

The first time I received the message that my lamp was about to go was at 700 hours. I reset the counter on the lamp then to zero. Last night the TV reached 1400 hours, 700 hours on the lamp (since I reset it) and I got the message again.
This time I am just going to ignore it and see what happens.

All you veteran Microdisplay owners, please vote on lamp life here;

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=629175

I have an Optoma RD50 (not "A"). Since it is non-HDCP compliant, I contacted Optoma and purchased a mainboard that IS HDCP compliant. The problem is, is that the picture is very washed out looking (almost foggy appearing). I've been in touch with their tech support, and they will help me try to correct it. Here is the post (email) I received from Optoma's tech guy:

The way I did it was I checked some internet forums for someone that had the same TV and DVD I had, and plugged in the values posted on the forums. One guy spent 8 hours calibrating and I took his values and my setup never looked better! I know for a fact that there are several posts about the Optoma sets in service menu modes and they know more than I do. These power users take it to another level and post their findings for all to see. All I have are what the techs tell me what the settings are and not the optimum settings established by these kinds of users. If you have time, check AVSfourms.com

So, I'm wondering if anyone who has been here before, can provide any of the settings to help me out. I'd have thought the Optoma tech guy would have all this stuff, but apparently not. However, he was a BIG help in explaining exactly how to swap out the main boards, so I'll give him that much.

TIA,

Rob

I never had a problem with the picture looking foggy, although when I first got the tv I had this annoying green tint which I fixed in the service menu. I could tell you my settings if you like, but I don't know if they equate to the same picture.

anybody know about the gama settings in the rd50a in the service menu?

what should they be set to?

and any other information about the service menu settings.

Or, if anyone has done the mainboard swap for an HDCP-DVI compliant board, please let me know...perhaps you could take a look at the settings in your service menu to give me a starting point?

I have an Optoma RD50 (not "A"). Since it is non-HDCP compliant, I contacted Optoma and purchased a mainboard that IS HDCP compliant. The problem is, is that the picture is very washed out looking (almost foggy appearing). I've been in touch with their tech support, and they will help me try to correct it. Here is the post (email) I received from Optoma's tech guy:

The way I did it was I checked some internet forums for someone that had the same TV and DVD I had, and plugged in the values posted on the forums. One guy spent 8 hours calibrating and I took his values and my setup never looked better! I know for a fact that there are several posts about the Optoma sets in service menu modes and they know more than I do. These power users take it to another level and post their findings for all to see. All I have are what the techs tell me what the settings are and not the optimum settings established by these kinds of users. If you have time, check AVSfourms.com

So, I'm wondering if anyone who has been here before, can provide any of the settings to help me out. I'd have thought the Optoma tech guy would have all this stuff, but apparently not. However, he was a BIG help in explaining exactly how to swap out the main boards, so I'll give him that much.

TIA,

Rob

I posted a while back that I have some mild shaking when viewing HD material with my HD DVR. I was told that I should change my output from 1080i to 720p to ultimately remove the shaking.

How would I go about doing that?

I posted a while back that I have some mild shaking when viewing HD material with my HD DVR. I was told that I should change my output from 1080i to 720p to ultimately remove the shaking.

How would I go about doing that?
I believe you have to change the "output" from the HD DVR, you should be asking other users of your model HD DVR how to do this.

I have a real bad problem with my optoma rd 50. All inputs start to flicker after about three to four minutes after powering up , then the colors turn to pastels. As it is excatly 15 month old, it is out of the warranty period.
This TV did cost me $ 2200 and now it went out three month out of the warranty period. I am really mad about it.
I called Optoma yesterday and they promised me to be called back by a technician.
No call.
I called them today and they promised me to call back today.
No call.
I am sure, it will cost me a lot of trouble, time and money.
Anyone had the same problem?

I have a real bad problem with my optoma rd 50. All inputs start to flicker after about three to four minutes after powering up , then the colors turn to pastels. As it is excatly 15 month old, it is out of the warranty period.
This TV did cost me $ 2200 and now it went out three month out of the warranty period. I am really mad about it.
I called Optoma yesterday and they promised me to be called back by a technician.
No call.
I called them today and they promised me to call back today.
No call.
I am sure, it will cost me a lot of trouble, time and money.
Anyone had the same problem?

Never had that problem in 7 months with the 65.

Some credit cards (amex) will double the warranty up to 1 yr. So if you bought with a CC, check to see if they double the warranty.

I checked and it turns out I ordered it with the Master Card and they have no such protection from what I could find :(

What I did find out, that might be of interest is that at one point, when calling Optoma, they said that the unit had HDCP, even though its not an RD50H, which would confirm what I have read elsewhere that some RD50s did come with HDCP.

I was able to get ahold of someone at Optoma yesterday, and they would give me an estimate for the repairs by thursday. The technician I spoke to said that the "engine" was probably broken, I assume that he meant the light engine with that.


I have posted another thread to see if anyone has experienced a similar issue.

I might have bought one of the last ones from VA. Ordered on Friday when it was showing as limited quantities and today shows as no longer available. I guess the question now is how long are the lamps going to be available.

I might have bought one of the last ones from VA. Ordered on Friday when it was showing as limited quantities and today shows as no longer available. I guess the question now is how long are the lamps going to be available.
The lamps are made by Phillips, not Optoma, so there is a possibility that they are made for more than one TV.

If you want to pick one up (which I would not suggest since they have a limited shelf life) I found a listing at B&H Photo:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?A=details&kw=OPLRD50A&is=REG&Q=&O=productlist&sku=411734

Thanks for the link. Bulbs have a shelf life?

Thanks for the link. Bulbs have a shelf life?
We will soon have two RD50's in the family, my RD50H that's two years old and a soon to be delivered RD50A that my son just bought for his family. I was thinking about buying a spare bulb now that we had two units in the family but I'm concerned about this "shelf life" issue too. Any thoughts on this from anyone?

Thanks for the link. Bulbs have a shelf life?
I would suggest doing a search in the main "Rear Projection Units" forum for "bulb", "lamp", "bulb life", "lamp life", etc. to read up on this. Everything I have previously read mentioned that the bulbs/lamps have a shelf life and that is a downside to this technology. You never know when your bulb/lamp will go out, and the replacement one you bought just for emergencies is not doing you any good sitting on the shelf because it is losing some of its life.

Maybe try calling Phillips for the definitive answer.

The other option is living without your tv while you wait a week for a new bulb to be shipped to you. I am cheap, so that is the route I am taking (as well as hoping that a market opens up for non-name brand bulbs at lower prices).

I love this TV. They'd better keep making the bulbs for years to come!

My Optoma 50 is great but it has a setting off I believe. The lower and upper portions of the screen cutt off the words to Fox News etc... news tickers... It doesnt matter what format the tv is in.
Any ideas on this?
Thanks

My Optoma 50 is great but it has a setting off I believe. The lower and upper portions of the screen cutt off the words to Fox News etc... news tickers... It doesnt matter what format the tv is in.
Any ideas on this?
Thanks
The DATA menu selection lets you adjust the horizontal and vertical positions and has an AUTO IMAGE option. I don't know of a way to change both top and bottom (squish?) the image. Maybe its your cable or satellite box that needs adjustment?

Thanks Grumpy
Its mainly the bottom of the screen. I have a Dish DVR942. I will post the question in that forum and check out the Data menu.

Thanks Grumpy
Its mainly the bottom of the screen. I have a Dish DVR942. I will post the question in that forum and check out the Data menu.
I have a Comcast cable box (Moto 6412 Phase II) that is never consistent in the image that it provides. Sometimes it is shifted left, sometimes right, sometimes up or down, depending on what channel it's playing and if that channel is analog, digital, HD, or On Demand.

Before adjusting the TV I would check different sources, including one or more DVD players to see if the problem is with the TV, or with the source programming from your STB.

I'm thinking about upgrading my RD50 to HDCP Compliance by purchasing a main board upgrade. Does this board swap add or enhance any other features of the RD50, or is it strictly for HDCP Compatibility ?

I'm thinking about upgrading my RD50 to HDCP Compliance by purchasing a main board upgrade. Does this board swap add or enhance any other features of the RD50, or is it strictly for HDCP Compatibility ?
I had the upgrade two years ago, I don't recall any other major features besides the HDCP compliance.

I have an Optoma RD65H (http://www.optomausa.com/Product_detail.asp?product_id=28) in the description it says this:

DVI-D w/HDCP connector ensures connectivity with future digital devices

So if I get one of these cables from monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10231&style=) Will I get the "full effect" of a HDMI connection?

I was looking at getting one of the new Sony DVP-NS75H (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=639621&page=1&pp=30)

I have an Optoma RD65H (http://www.optomausa.com/Product_detail.asp?product_id=28) in the description it says this:



So if I get one of these cables from monoprice (http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10231&style=) Will I get the "full effect" of a HDMI connection?

I was looking at getting one of the new Sony DVP-NS75H (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=639621&page=1&pp=30)
I don't know anything about the Sony unit but, if you connect from HDMI to DVI, you will get a digital video connection, but not the audio, you will need to separately connect the audio output.

I don't know anything about the Sony unit but, if you connect from HDMI to DVI, you will get a digital video connection, but not the audio, you will need to separately connect the audio output.

Thanks Grampy! Do you know if I can run a splitter so that I can run 2 DVI sources into the one jack on the rear of the RD65h?

i have a theory for you optoma 50" dlp owners. i was at samsclub and saw this magnavox 50" dlp there for sale. i noticed that the shape of this set looks very similar to the 50" optoma. dimensions are nearly identical too. do you think it's possible that this is the same set, just sold under magnavox's name now? the model number i'm referring to is 50ML8305D/17. thanks.

i have a theory for you optoma 50" dlp owners. i was at samsclub and saw this magnavox 50" dlp there for sale. i noticed that the shape of this set looks very similar to the 50" optoma. dimensions are nearly identical too. do you think it's possible that this is the same set, just sold under magnavox's name now? the model number i'm referring to is 50ML8305D/17. thanks.
Actually, this is probably one of the reasons why Optoma is exiting the DLP TV market. Competing at these prices doesn't make business sense to them.

ok y'all, i've read on numerous message boards about people claiming this hd2+ chip to be one of the, if not the best 720p dlp chip. is this true in all you owner's opinions? most people claim it's sharper and less soft than even the newest chips (hd4). i am seriously considering this unit as it can be picked up very cheap from some online retailers. thanks in advance for the feedback.

Thanks Grampy! Do you know if I can run a splitter so that I can run 2 DVI sources into the one jack on the rear of the RD65h?


Looks like momo price will offer this HDMI switch (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=101&cp_id=10110&cs_id=1011001&p_id=2786&style=&seq=1&format=1#largeimage) in a few weeks. That way you can hook up 2 HDMI sources into your optoma.

I have a Magnavox 50ML8305D, which appears to be the same unit as the Optima. Has anyone had any luck getting their TV to work with a cable universal remote? If so, can you please tell me the code? The cable company gave me a couple different remotes and I haven't had luck with any of the codes.

It looks like Optoma USA has completely revamped their website. When you go to their homepage, as far as I can tell, you cannot get to a page for the RD-50A. It is not listed under the products page or the discontinued products page - which is troubling. However, after searching I found a new link:

http://www.optomausa.com/Product_detail.asp?product_id=29

However, one page I cannot find is a listing of IR codes for a Harmony learning remote (or other learning remote) that used to be listed on the site.


Also, I think I found a cheap learning remote for this TV for about $20. I am contacting the manufacturer to make sure it will work.

http://www.ofausa.com/remote.php?type=URC10820

It looks like Optoma USA has completely revamped their website. When you go to their homepage, as far as I can tell, you cannot get to a page for the RD-50A. It is not listed under the products page or the discontinued products page - which is troubling. However, after searching I found a new link:

http://www.optomausa.com/Product_detail.asp?product_id=29

However, one page I cannot find is a listing of IR codes for a Harmony learning remote (or other learning remote) that used to be listed on the site.


Also, I think I found a cheap learning remote for this TV for about $20. I am contacting the manufacturer to make sure it will work.

http://www.ofausa.com/remote.php?type=URC10820

To follow up, the company emailed me back to let me know that this universal remote does have a code for the RD50A, but if it does not work they will pay the cost to have you mail them the remote and they will personally add it for you. That sounds pretty good to me so I will pick one up.

Here is the text of the email I received:

"Hello Mr. -------,

Thank you for your email.

Listed below is the code for your device. When you enter the code, you will either get a single or double blink. If you only get one blink, then the code is not in your remote.

TV: 0887

~Listed below are your upgrade options. If you decide to send in your remote for the upgrade, please be sure to fill out the information below that is highlighted in bold. In order for you to be authorized to send this remote in for the upgrade we need to issue you a TAG ID number. Once we receive this information, we will be able to provide you with the shipping address and further instructions.~

Note: Shipping address for this procedure differs from the address in your remote manual.

If a code is not in your remote, you might consider sending the remote in to have the code added. This process is free to you, as the company will cover the cost and the price of shipping the remote back to you. The only cost you would incur is that of shipping the remote to the company. We highly suggest that you insure your remote when you mail it. On average, this takes 7-10 business days from the time you ship the remote to the time you receive the remote back. For faster service please call 330-405-8616 Mon - Fri 9:00 - 5:30 EST. or you can fill out the following information so that we can get started. If you do not want to send in the remote, you may want to consider purchasing the URC-8910, because that remote is upgradeable by phone.

Sincerely,
Sarah Zanath
Universal Electronics Inc.
ofasupport@ueic.com www.ofausa.com "

Well folks, I'm leaving the group.

After a year with the RD50A, it was picked up and returned last night. The jittering with 1080i sources was something that could not be overcome, and I was issued a refund.

I really enjoyed my time with the tv, and wish you all good luck.

Goodbye former brothers.

Well folks, I'm leaving the group.

After a year with the RD50A, it was picked up and returned last night. The jittering with 1080i sources was something that could not be overcome, and I was issued a refund.

I really enjoyed my time with the tv, and wish you all good luck.

Goodbye former brothers.

Wait! I've been AWOL on this thread. What's next, for you, Rolen?

I've been awol myself lately, mostly enjoying my tv, but I neglected to keep the thread up to date with my dealings with Optoma customer service.

Today I ordered a Panny 50PHD8UK. A lot more cash, but some things change in a year - a 50" plasma was out of my league when I bought the Optoma, now it isn't. I will look back on my RD50A fondly though - I still believe that we got the best deal out there at the time.

Rolen you got a PM. Question about your jittering.

My 65 starting doing this today.

Now my wife tells me that it has done it last week too. Thanks honey way to keep me up to date. :rolleyes:

If I turn it off and turn it back on a few mins later. The problem goes away. Then 1 hour later while watching the race the problem came back.

Its doing it on all sources that I tried. 2 DISH receivers (HD and SD) and on standard cable as well.

Any thoughts? Its still in warranty.

Ordered from VA on 8-23-5

2110 hrs on TV and original lamp. Approx 6.8hrs/day.
Your TV is still under warranty, but the lamp's original warranty was only 6 months. If I were you I would call/email Optoma right away to make a service call. It shouldn't cost you anything, and you don't want to wait until 8/24/06.

Thanks for your response.

I sent out an email last night to optoma with the same pic attached. I think it says may take 24 hours for them to get back to me.

Just wondering if anybody else has had this problem and what the fix was.
What exactly IS the problem? Can you describe it? The picture is not very conclusive.

Last time I looked the track in Chicago was not green. :D
Ok, I didn't notice that. I didn't think the photo was a true color representation and instead thought you were talking about jittering or fuzziness.

Anyways, I'll take a guess and say there is something wrong with the color wheel, which is something you should not try to fix yourself. (You asked if others had a "fix")

The only other thing I can think of is a bad component cable or component cable connection.

Ok, I didn't notice that. I didn't think the photo was a true color representation and instead thought you were talking about jittering or fuzziness.

Anyways, I'll take a guess and say there is something wrong with the color wheel, which is something you should not try to fix yourself. (You asked if others had a "fix")

The only other thing I can think of is a bad component cable or component cable connection.

I am voting for the color wheel too. The problem was there with cable TV also, using the optoma's tuner. I will let a tech handle it.

I am voting for the color wheel too. The problem was there with cable TV also, using the optoma's tuner. I will let a tech handle it.
Good luck. Let us know how it goes and how they treat you.

Good luck. Let us know how it goes and how they treat you.

Thanks, will do.

The parts arrived on friday and I hope a service tech will be calling soon to replace the parts.
They sent the following to my house:
Main board
DMD board
keypad board

The parts arrived on friday and I hope a service tech will be calling soon to replace the parts.
They sent the following to my house:
Main board
DMD board
keypad board
No color wheel? Surprising.

Main board, DMD board and keypad board. The color wheel is the only other part that could be bad in the whole TV. Does anybody know if the color wheel sends any kind of feedback to the main board for position? I would think it does.

The parts sent sounds like easter egging.

Has anybody else delt with TSC for warranty work? They are optomas service division (I guess) I had work performed on my RD50A when I first got it two years ago, had to go thru the TSC group at 888-942-2929, it was all via voice mail until I was contacted by their local (in New England) service contractor, a company called DecisionOne. They were very professional and competent, I had no issues with them.

Since nobody will come and fix my TV Optoma is sending me another TV. It should be here in a week. They will take the old one back at the same time. The gentleman at Optoma tells me that it is a refurb and has been tested twice. They don't have any new ones as they don't make them anymore.

I still have an additional 1 yr warranty as I bought the TV with AMEX. As long as the original TV was not a refurb, they will cover this refurbed TV for the additional year.
All's well that ends well?

It is good to see Optoma stepping up to the plate to replace the TV, but your ordeal is to be expected, I guess, since there is little incentive to keep existing customers happy now that they are no longer making the TV's.

I thought the non-A units (I have an RD65) are supposed to not be HDCP compliant? But i have the sony NS75 upconverting dvd player and the DVI works, so i assume the DVI is HDCP compliant since the NS75 is an HDCP device.

What would I see if a display device was non HDCP? does it take a while for the HDCP to "kick in"? after 2 weeks of working, I now have a problem where the player won't work through DVI anymore. I think it's probably the DVD player, but i wonder if the HDCP has anything to do with it. Anyone else have a similar experience?

I noticed that my RD 50a's image is very, very dark after displaying a dvd menu for a period of time. The darkness is noticeable when I switch over to another input.

When I switch to AV1 which has my directivo box on it the image is very dark. Doesnt matter what setting the picture menu is on.

The fix is to turn of the display long enough for the fan to cool the bulb (solid red). I can then switch the display on and get an image with acceptable brightness. My bulb has 5,300 hours on it. Is this is a sign that the bulb's life is nearing its end? Anyone else experience this problem?

I thought the non-A units (I have an RD65) are supposed to not be HDCP compliant? But i have the sony NS75 upconverting dvd player and the DVI works, so i assume the DVI is HDCP compliant since the NS75 is an HDCP device.

What would I see if a display device was non HDCP? does it take a while for the HDCP to "kick in"? after 2 weeks of working, I now have a problem where the player won't work through DVI anymore. I think it's probably the DVD player, but i wonder if the HDCP has anything to do with it. Anyone else have a similar experience?
The non-A units are not HDCP compliant. You may want to call Optoma, read to them your Tv's serial number and confirm whether or not your unit is a RD65A or RD65.

Also, I may be wrong, but even if your Tv is not HDCP compliant and your DVD player is, then wouldn't the DVD still have to have the HDCP controls on it for it not to play on your Tv? If the DVD's you have been watching are not HDCP, then that would explain why they are working.

My bulb has 5,300 hours on it. Is this is a sign that the bulb's life is nearing its end? Anyone else experience this problem?
My first guess is that your bulb is dying and you may need a new one. Read the other threads in the rear projection forum about lamps that went out.. The ones I read talked about the picture becoming dimmer and dimmer and then one day you hear a pop (like the noise a light bulb makes when it breaks), and you get no picture.

16 weeks later and my saga has come to a close.

I finally have my original TV back from Optoma.

Everything seems to be working fine.
Did they ever say what broke?

I have an Optoma RD65 TV now out of warranty. It was worked on twice by optoma.
Recently on the far right side of the screen I have about a 1 inch dark black band running from top to bottom. Its wider at the top than the bottom. I believe this is happening because the last tech that visited my house took the screen off the front of the TV. I think the dark band is caused because something in the optics or on the other side of the screen is obstructing the projection. Does anybody know the secret of getting the allumnium bands that hold the screen in place loosened so I can remove the screen and look for the obstruction. This TV still has a great picture other then this stupid band on the side.

rkrause957,

Sounds like a loose or broken light tunnel mirror. At least with mine, Optoma wanted me to ship the whole TV back to them and they replace the light engine assy. The cost with shipping would have been more than a new TV. Since you've had it worked on by Optoma already, perhaps they will repair it on site without replacing the whole engine. When I called the tech support (over a year ago) they didn't repair, they just replace with a "new" unit from the supplier and return the defective unit for refurbishment. There have been a few posts about disassembling the light engine and re-gluing the loose mirror to correct the problem. I have a bunch of pictures showing the open light engine showing where the tunnel is, but I didn't open the tunnel cover and fix the mirrors. I did tap the light engine with a wrench and the mirror moved back into place. I still have a very light shadow, but it is barely visible and considering the cost to replace the engine if something breaks attempting to fix it, I live with it. Again, perhaps an Optoma tech would even a spare light tunnel mirror assy and that 1+ year after Optoma stopped making the TV, they now have some spare parts.

Miner

Has anyone replaced a bulb on the RD50A yet? If so, where did you get it? I see them at BHP Photo online for a price cheaper than what's listed at Amazon, but it says that it's a special order that takes 2 to 4 weeks to get. That's a LOOOOOOOOOOOOONG time not to have my HDTV. I've considered ordering in advance, but isn't there a shelf life on these bulbs?
Sigh.

The reason I ask is because although my bulb is less than a year old, it recently gave me the low-life warning. I went into the service menu and reset the lamp life hours, and all seems fine now. Hopefully, it was just a glitch for now. I don't see how this bulb can be almost dead already.

Has anyone replaced a bulb on the RD50A yet? If so, where did you get it? I see them at BHP Photo online for a price cheaper than what's listed at Amazon, but it says that it's a special order that takes 2 to 4 weeks to get. That's a LOOOOOOOOOOOOONG time not to have my HDTV. I've considered ordering in advance, but isn't there a shelf life on these bulbs?
Sigh.

The reason I ask is because although my bulb is less than a year old, it recently gave me the low-life warning. I went into the service menu and reset the lamp life hours, and all seems fine now. Hopefully, it was just a glitch for now. I don't see how this bulb can be almost dead already.
Yes, there is a shelf life for lamps and NO, your lamp is not dead already.

I think that we all got that service message at the same time on our sets. For me, the message went away naturally because I did not reset the lamp life counter. Search back earlier in the thread for more discussion on the subject.

Idahoguy,

I tried buying the factory stand from B&H Photo and it said 2-4 weeks delivery. I was overjoyed to see a note from UPS a week later saying I needed to sign for it. Little did I know the box had been dropped and the unit damaged. After 3 weeks of hot potato from B&H about shipping a replacement, I asked they cancel the order. A month later, I finally heard from them only because Amex jumped in. Caveat Emptor about B&H.

I believe I am having the same problem you are describing, Do you have a link ir can you point me to instructions on how to disassemble/fix the light engine. I have two pretty good sized triangle shaped shadows on my screen that make it almost unwatchable.

Thanks

rkrause957,

There have been a few posts about disassembling the light engine and re-gluing the loose mirror to correct the problem. I have a bunch of pictures showing the open light engine showing where the tunnel is, but I didn't open the tunnel cover and fix the mirrors. I did tap the light engine with a wrench and the mirror moved back into place. I still have a very light shadow, but it is barely visible and considering the cost to replace the engine if something breaks attempting to fix it, I live with it. Again, perhaps an Optoma tech would even a spare light tunnel mirror assy and that 1+ year after Optoma stopped making the TV, they now have some spare parts.

Miner

My RD50H went red tonight. I don't watch this unit much, mainly for DVDs. I checked the service menu and the unit has 630 hours on it. This is the third unit Optoma has sent me. I have to look at my paperwork and see where my warranty is. Does anybody know if the warranty is as of the 1st unit or does it reset to the third unit?

I have to admit, I have been very frustrated with this set. The first two didn't last a few months. This one has lasted longer and I thought I had finely got a good one. Guess not.

Anybody have an issue going red, sounds like the color wheel from what I'm reading. I see Feeth took 4 months, I don't hold out much hope.

I believe I am having the same problem you are describing, Do you have a link ir can you point me to instructions on how to disassemble/fix the light engine. I have two pretty good sized triangle shaped shadows on my screen that make it almost unwatchable.

Thanks

I just repaired the light tunnel on my Optoma RD65. It should be similar for RD50 or RD65. The shadow your seeing on the screen is probably caused by mirrors in the light tunnel moving around. A very poor epoxy glue was used in the tunnels manufacture. This is going to hit most all RD65 and RD50 models. Great thing about this problem is it probably won't happen until the warranty is expired and you will be looking at a $1000 repair bill caused by a mirror assembly that can't be worth more then $25.

You can fix this if your the least bit handy and don't mind taking a risk to fix it. Took me about 4 hours to do. If I had to do it again I figure about 2 hours. I purchased a very good high temperture expoxy at my local auto parts store to glue the mirrors back in. Be real carefull with the mirrors because they will all
fall out and could break on a hard surface. Anyone wanting more information send me a request. Better also use surgical gloves when you get ready to glue the mirrors.

I have attached three pictures so you can see where this light tunnel is.

It feels real good to look at this TV and not have that nasty looking shadow on the right side.

Bob K

Nice pics, hope I don't have to do that on mine. Started getting the bulb life message. Went into SM and checked hours TV Age=9012hrs Lamp Life=9048hrs. Not sure why bulb life is higher than TV Age. My set is RD50H btw, not A. Seems like a lot of hours, if it was a car, I'd call them "highway miles". Not many ON/OFF cycles for the amount of time, wife and I work different shifts so somebody is usually home/awake no matter the time. Haven't noticed picture losing any quality, so I'm not going to bother with it until I have to. Don't even plan on resetting the timer, hoping it will go away after a bit. I guess I should go ahead and get a replacement bulb though. Any suggestions on a good place to get one?

peace.
unloaded

If you're comfortable with changing just the bulb instead of the lamp assembly, I've seen just the bulb sold on ebay for about half the cost of the entire assembly. Just search using the part numbers that's physically on the back of the bulb.

Nice pics, hope I don't have to do that on mine. Started getting the bulb life message. Went into SM and checked hours TV Age=9012hrs Lamp Life=9048hrs. Not sure why bulb life is higher than TV Age. My set is RD50H btw, not A. Seems like a lot of hours, if it was a car, I'd call them "highway miles". Not many ON/OFF cycles for the amount of time, wife and I work different shifts so somebody is usually home/awake no matter the time. Haven't noticed picture losing any quality, so I'm not going to bother with it until I have to. Don't even plan on resetting the timer, hoping it will go away after a bit. I guess I should go ahead and get a replacement bulb though. Any suggestions on a good place to get one?

peace.
unloaded


so the 10000 hours on papers are not just marketing, you really can reach this value. Thats incredible. After a bit more than one year I have 1300hours and if mine lasts 6000, I think its okay to buy a new bulb.

I am on my 2nd Optoma RD65 TV and so far I did not have any luck when it comes to reliablity of the unit. Seems my first unit blew a power supply and motherboard and the new unit Optoma sent out started malfunctioning within 2 months.

Would any of you guys or gals happen to have your original Optoma warranty card? I am trying to file a claim with MasterCard extended warranty program but they need that card to honor it and I turned my house inside and out looking for it but did not find it. If you have it can you scan it and post it here or PM me (I cannot post my e-mail here forum won't let me)!

About the TV itself, the image quality always has been great and I really liked it the first year and a half but after it broke it been nothing but trouble. It seems they are having major quality issues with TVs. Seems these TVs don't last ;/

Do you mean the card you fill out and send in? I'll search around and see what I can find, but I'm not exactly sure what you are after. I don't check this forum everyday so email me with details and reminder:
<<<---mynick @sigecom.net

peace.
unloaded

What my CC is requested is warranty description; basically what is cored and what is not and for how long. Not sure about this TV but with other electronics it is typically a half page paper covered with small print.

I am not sure if that is the warranty card that you mail or a seperate paper ;/ Optoma is trying to find me that card as well but so far no luck

Thank you to AVSForum community, I got what I was looking for from one of the members.

If you're comfortable with changing just the bulb instead of the lamp assembly, I've seen just the bulb sold on ebay for about half the cost of the entire assembly. Just search using the part numbers that's physically on the back of the bulb.
Have you or anyone else tried to only replace the bulb instead of the entire lamp assembly? Any pictures?

And what is half the cost? Over or under $150?

Have you or anyone else tried to only replace the bulb instead of the entire lamp assembly? Any pictures?

And what is half the cost? Over or under $150?

I replaced my lamp once under warranty but it looked like the bulb is just mounted with a couple screws. I've seen buy it now auctions as low as $125 with the majority around $200.

For the people that replaced your lamp on the RD50A. Where did you get it from?

I'd like info on a recplacement bulb and lamp assembly. Looks like I need to get one while I can shop around, rather than wait for it to go out. Links and pics to bulb only procedure would be appreciated.

peace.
unloaded

Does anyone have TV codes for the Optomas? I have an Onkyo AV Receiver with remote RC-608M. I want to program it to control my RD65. Any help? TIA.

Does anyone have TV codes for the Optomas? I have an Onkyo AV Receiver with remote RC-608M. I want to program it to control my RD65. Any help? TIA.
I bought this one for all remote and it works great (and it's only $20):

http://www.ofausa.com/remote.php?type=URC10820

Found this while looking for a bulb:
"Optoma RD50 Lamp

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Just an FYI for any owners of this unit. I just changed one for a client and found that the lamp is the same Osram lamp that is used in the Mitsubishi WD52725. The Mits price is a lot cheaper. You would have to change the lamp and use the Optoma cage."

Not sure how reliable the info is, it came from here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/video-displays/502-optoma-rd50-lamp.html
If anybody has anymore info please post.

peace.
unloaded

There's a cross reference table listed in this ebay auction:

New DLP lamp bulb of Osram P-VIP 100-120w/1.3 E23h

There's a cross reference table listed in this ebay auction:

New DLP lamp bulb of Osram P-VIP 100-120w/1.3 E23h

I don't know if this is the right lamp for 2 reasons:

1 - When I called Optoma they said the lamp was made by Phillips, and

2 - There may be a difference between the RD50 and RD50A because according to their spec sheets, the RD50A has a brighter picture.

2 - There may be a difference between the RD50 and RD50A because according to their spec sheets, the RD50A has a brighter picture.

This may be due to the HD2+ chip, though I would think contrast would be the greater benefit.

I don't know if this is the right lamp for 2 reasons:

1 - When I called Optoma they said the lamp was made by Phillips, and

2 - There may be a difference between the RD50 and RD50A because according to their spec sheets, the RD50A has a brighter picture.

When I pulled my stock lamp assembly on the RD50A, the bulb was an Osram along with the warranty replacement from Optoma. I believe Philips and Osram both make bulbs with the same or similar specs, P-VIP 100-120w/1.3 E23h, manufactured in different locations. Not sure if it's utilized by the Optoma or not but the bulb does have a variable wattage rating which I guess would be determined by the ballast in tv.

When I pulled my stock lamp assembly on the RD50A, the bulb was an Osram along with the warranty replacement from Optoma. I believe Philips and Osram both make bulbs with the same or similar specs, P-VIP 100-120w/1.3 E23h, manufactured in different locations. Not sure if it's utilized by the Optoma or not but the bulb does have a variable wattage rating which I guess would be determined by the ballast in tv.
Good information to know. I will gladly replace the just the bulb for around $125-$150 instead of the whole lamp assembly for $325-$350.

I purchased my RD50 from Costco.ca about 1 year ago. It has been working great (until recently). 3 Times within the last month or so (earlier tonight was the last time) the screen goes black (audio continues) and the the power and lamp LEDs turn red (one solid, one flashing) and after a few minutes the both stay on solid with no picture. Sometimes I turn it off with the remote and turn it back on again and it's okay again. Other times I have to shut the power switch (on the left side of the TV) off and then turn it back on to get it working again. The last time I checked the lamp hours ( a few months ago ) it was no where near the 8000hr life. I can't remember how to get back into the service menu to check it again. Any ideas or suggestions as to what the problem might be ? What is the sequence to get into the service menu ?

I purchased my RD50 from Costco.ca about 1 year ago. It has been working great (until recently). 3 Times within the last month or so (earlier tonight was the last time) the screen goes black (audio continues) and the the power and lamp LEDs turn red (one solid, one flashing) and after a few minutes the both stay on solid with no picture. Sometimes I turn it off with the remote and turn it back on again and it's okay again. Other times I have to shut the power switch (on the left side of the TV) off and then turn it back on to get it working again. The last time I checked the lamp hours ( a few months ago ) it was no where near the 8000hr life. I can't remember how to get back into the service menu to check it again. Any ideas or suggestions as to what the problem might be ? What is the sequence to get into the service menu ?

menu-619-menu

Good luck!

Menu 6-1-9 Got it Thanks
Checked Lamp Life / TV Life
TV Life was 1163 hrs
Lamp Life was 1134 hrs
Is this remaining hrs or used hrs ?
Reset lamp Life, now reads 9000 hrs
If it is used hrs, why is it 9000 hrs after reset ?
If it is remaining hrs, what does TV Life of 1134 hrs means ?

Menu 6-1-9 Got it Thanks
Checked Lamp Life / TV Life
TV Life was 1163 hrs
Lamp Life was 1134 hrs
Is this remaining hrs or used hrs ?
Reset lamp Life, now reads 9000 hrs
If it is used hrs, why is it 9000 hrs after reset ?
If it is remaining hrs, what does TV Life of 1134 hrs means ?

Didn't you read the manual? It means your Optoma will need to be replaced in 1134 hours. That's the little trick they don't tell you about when you're thinking of spending the extra money for a plasma. ;)

Sounds pretty scarry, doesn't it.

Wish I could tell ya'. But I can't. Let me know what it means when you find out, though, would ya'?

I checked the Lamp Life again and it's still at 1134 hrs and 1163 hrs for TV Life. Not sure where the 9000 hrs came from. Anyway, looks like it is the number of hours used (not remaining). I contacted Optoma about the problem and they seem to think the lamp is getting ready to give up. With only 1134 hrs on it, this seems a little pre-mature. Tech Support said that warranty does not cover lamps. Has anyone had a lamp replaced on warranty ? If so, after how many hours. They did not have any lamps in stock and told me he was going to check on the price and time to get one brought in from the US, (I am in canada). Has anyone bought one of these $147.00 (Osram) lamps on eBay ? Do they work okay in the RD50 ?

I checked the Lamp Life again and it's still at 1134 hrs and 1163 hrs for TV Life. Not sure where the 9000 hrs came from. Anyway, looks like it is the number of hours used (not remaining). I contacted Optoma about the problem and they seem to think the lamp is getting ready to give up. With only 1134 hrs on it, this seems a little pre-mature. Tech Support said that warranty does not cover lamps. Has anyone had a lamp replaced on warranty ? If so, after how many hours. They did not have any lamps in stock and told me he was going to check on the price and time to get one brought in from the US, (I am in canada). Has anyone bought one of these $147.00 (Osram) lamps on eBay ? Do they work okay in the RD50 ?

They warrantied mine. I think the cutoff was 6 months from my purchase date.

However, later I discovered that there was a bug in the system that flashed the warning of near lamp death when the lamp was fine. I reset the lamp life deal and it's been in there for over a year since.

I haven't been paying attention much here. What happened to yours that Optoma thinks the lamp is near death?

Never mind. I just read your post #621. I'm assuming that's it. Looks like you are out of luck for the warranty.

I bought DLP knowing full well that the lamp would need periodic replacement. With that in mind, DLP is still, by far the best value in HDTV. Just have some pennies in the piggy for that rainy day.

BTW, I just checked my service menu (Home office. Nice when the wife and kid are out, otherwise, not as nice/quiet.)

TV age shows 7555

Lamp age 6823

I'm guessing the lamp is probably 7555 also as I reset it.

I've been feeling like the brightness has dipped a bit and I don't recall if that was to be expected for a near-failing lamp, or not. Going to have to research it. I have a spare bulb and Superbowl is just days away.

Anyway, your lamp age seems awfully low to be going out on you. Also, I'm no rocket surgeon, nor DLP tech, but your symptoms don't scream "lamp" to me.

My lamp was replaced under warranty. It blew within the 6 month period and with probably less than 600 hours on the lamp.

The screen lost about half it's brightness about a couple hours before it went then after turning it off it never came back on. Just got the flashing red light. Didn't hear any pop but when I pulled the lamp assembly you could see that the filament assembly inside the bulb had shattered.

If you replace the whole assembly, make sure you examine the electrical connectors and make sure they match the original one. The first replacement I got had the wrong connectors which were slightly larger and had the keyed pins oriented perpendicular to the stock connectors. I pushed too hard putting it back in not knowing the connectors didn't match and ended up popping the tv side connector out of its mount. Had to pull the back panel off the tv to remount the internal connector.

Also I've read that lamp life is diminshed quicker by turning your TV on and off more frequently. Unless I'm sure I won't need it for awhile, I just leave mine on. Seems to have worked pretty well so far according to the meter.

I've had my RD50 for a couple of Years. No problems. Yesterday I got "DMD Fan Failure TV is shutting down" The TV picture went blank and the LED blinks red. After a while I turned it back on and bo problem. Later it occurred again. Any thoughts?

I've had my RD50 for a couple of Years. No problems. Yesterday I got "DMD Fan Failure TV is shutting down" The TV picture went blank and the LED blinks red. After a while I turned it back on and bo problem. Later it occurred again. Any thoughts?
Well if a fan is failing, you certainly don't want the TV on. Sounds like the computer is doing its job.

In the service menu is an option to view the temperature. Try turning it on and watching that. If it rises continually until shutdown, that would jive.

I think there are at least 2 fans on the left side near the bulb. You can pop the front cover off and visually inspect them, at least. There may be more fans, I don't know. But if you find one of those is not working, you probably have your culprit.

Good luck.

Thanks for your suggestions. I cleaned the fan guards at the rear sides of the set. I couldn't find a fan near the lamp. I went into the service menu and the thermal info says that the unit is at 30-31c. I'll peiodically look at it.

Again TYVM!

Thanks for your suggestions. I cleaned the fan guards at the rear sides of the set. I couldn't find a fan near the lamp. I went into the service menu and the thermal info says that the unit is at 30-31c. I'll peiodically look at it.

Again TYVM!
I guess it's been awhile. I don't think there's a fan on the right side, just a vent, but there is one behind the left vent somewhere. Did you remove the vents to clean them? Was the fan running?

Your temp. is certainly not too hot.

You are right. I have cats that get around the TV, so I vacuumed both of the grills. Yes, the fan is running. It's been about an hour since I cleanded it. The temp seems to stay at 31c.

I had mine shut down for one of those fan warnings over a year ago. It only happened that one time, not sure what caused it. I ordered one of those bulbs off ebay. My set is right around 10,000 hrs so I think the warnings are legit. I won't change until it actually burns out though.

peace.
unloaded

Bears2007 and unloaded,

There is a fan attached to the DMD heat sink. It looks a lot like a 486 sized heat sink and fan. It is smack in the middle of the cabinet towards the back cover. The air has to get in and out trhough the side vents. I would keep an eye out on the vents periodically. If it recurrs, you may want to remove the back cover and verify the fan is operating when the TV is on. I'm not sure about replacing it, though. Might be a specific fan from Optoma.

Miner

Sounds like an opportunity to do some modding. Lots of great heatsinks and fans in the aftermarket for PCs. Possibly find a fan with as good or better flow that's more quiet.

Well my bulb finally went out, had 9912 hrs on it. I had one of the $150 ones off ebay waiting for the day. Changing out the bulb was pretty simple. Had to use the wire harness off the original, the plug was a little different. One thing I found that I haven't seen mentioned. Once I had the new bulb installed I tried to check it before putting everything else back together. Nothing when I turned the power switch on. Turns out there is a switch that the door hits when it is on. Once I put the cover back on everything was fine. Reset my timer and I'm good to go. Noticed quite a bit of dust inside, I need to get it cleaned up but I didn't want to stir it up right now. Gonna get one of those small vacs for electronics and give it a shot.

peace.
unloaded

Well my bulb finally went out, had 9912 hrs on it. I had one of the $150 ones off ebay waiting for the day. Changing out the bulb was pretty simple. Had to use the wire harness off the original, the plug was a little different. One thing I found that I haven't seen mentioned. Once I had the new bulb installed I tried to check it before putting everything else back together. Nothing when I turned the power switch on. Turns out there is a switch that the door hits when it is on. Once I put the cover back on everything was fine. Reset my timer and I'm good to go. Noticed quite a bit of dust inside, I need to get it cleaned up but I didn't want to stir it up right now. Gonna get one of those small vacs for electronics and give it a shot.

peace.
unloaded
Did you take any pictures? Care to post them?

Also, please describe in further detail about "how the plug was a little different" and how that affected the installation. Thanks.

USCsuperfan,

I have the lamp cartridge from a Magnavox DLP that looks nearly identical to the Optoma. I'll try to shoot some photos of it. The connector is keyed differently and the housing is slightly different, but the bulb itself is nearly identical.

In some other dialogs with Optoma RD XX series, it would appear that a 50 and 65 are identical except for the bulb and housing. I'll try and post some photos this weekend, including the light tunnel and light engine.

Miner

Did you take any pictures? Care to post them?

Also, please describe in further detail about "how the plug was a little different" and how that affected the installation. Thanks.

I didn't take pics when I did it, but I had time lat night to open it up for some dust removal. I was having troubles with lamp light turning red and unit shutting off. I figured it was a heat issue due to the dust bunnies. I opened it up in the back, both side vents and the front lamp area. Used a small vac and got what dust I could, used some bottled air on the fan/heatsink over the chip. Snapped a few pics while it was open, put it back together and couldn't get my lamp to light up. After taking it out and putting it back in a few times, I decided to try the old bulb, still nothing. Next I noticed there is a small board with copper contacts and a small fuse attached to the lamp housing. I didn't want to run to work for a meter so I thought I'd lift the contact pads a bit. When I did this and put it back together it worked, with the Old Bulb! I'm gonna leave it like it is for now and see how long the bulb lasts.
I'll resize the pics in a bit and try to put some labels on a few items so you guys can see what I mean.

peace.
unloaded

Ok, here o some pics.

This shows front cover off, lamp door removed, and lamp assembly removed:
http://www.wowway.com/~unloaded/tv1.jpg

Here is the assembly and the bulb as I got it, shows both plugs:
http://www.wowway.com/~unloaded/tv2.jpg

Here is a pic of the bulb as I got it and the two wire connections, easily swapped with the one on original bulb:
http://www.wowway.com/~unloaded/tv3.jpg

Some different angles:
http://www.wowway.com/~unloaded/tv4.jpg
http://www.wowway.com/~unloaded/tv5.jpg
http://www.wowway.com/~unloaded/tv6.jpg

Another view of where the lamp assembly will go:
http://www.wowway.com/~unloaded/tv7.jpg

Any questions, just ask. If I don't answer after a bit email me and I'll return to the thread and try to answer, email is:
<<==mynick @sigecom.net

peace.
unloaded

edit: ISP sold, had to change addy to pics.

Ok, here o some pics.

This shows front cover off, lamp door removed, and lamp assembly removed:

peace.
unloaded
Nice work, man!

Guys I'm having a problem.

I've done some searches and come up a bit short.

In really bright scenes where there is a lot of white, say a big, bright, overcast sky, I get these dark spots. Not black, or even gray, just a little darker than the rest of the screen. The look like they could be little thumb prints. My wife does a bang up job w/house cleaning so I know it's not on the outside of the screen.

From what I've read, these could be "dust blobs." But DLP is supposed to have a closed light tunnel. Nowhere I've read could I find DLP, RP sets with this kind of problem. Now I have changed the bulb out a few times, when I got the erroneous bulb-near-death message that turned out to be false. Is the bulb inside the light tunnel? I don't want to take it out again to find out and, possibly make it worse, if I don't have to.

So what could this be and how do I treat it?

Otherwise, my RD50A has been a fantastic machine!

Thanks gang,

Sketch

I've got a few of those spots myself, I'm sure they are specs of dust on a lens or mirror someplace. I know for a fact that things aren't sealed as well as you say. I had a spider inside my set one time and his shadow going across the screen drove me crazy for almost a week. He finally went away. The smudges haven't got bad enough for me to dig in and remove them, I'd probably make it worse.

peace.
unloaded

I had a spider inside my set one time and his shadow going across the screen drove me crazy for almost a week.worse.

peace.
unloaded
:D

Sorry.

Oh man. That would drive me freakin' NUTS!!!

Well, misery loves company. I do feel better that I'm not the only one. And not for the company, really, but the fact that it CAN happen and it's not some freak thing that could never be solved.

Unless I get a good solution before Monday, I'll probably call Optoma, then and see if they can steer me in the right direction.

Thanks bro.

Well my RD50A has an issue. My remote no longer works. I have a Harmony 880 and all of a sudden it would no longer control the TV. So I made sure the batteries were good in the original TV remote and it no longer controls the TV either. Anyone else have a problem like this? Could it be the sensor on the actual TV or maybe something else?

Pete GTP,

Try a full shutdown, then pull the plug for 15 secs. It could be a software hiccup in the system. If that doesn't work, there are a couple of harnesses that go from the front panel to the main board. You can reach them by removing the front access panel (it has its own harness but can be set on the stand).

The IR sensor is just to the right of the buttons, is something blocking it, a thick smudge? piece of tape? Plant leaf?

Miner

Pete GTP,

Try a full shutdown, then pull the plug for 15 secs. It could be a software hiccup in the system. If that doesn't work, there are a couple of harnesses that go from the front panel to the main board. You can reach them by removing the front access panel (it has its own harness but can be set on the stand).

The IR sensor is just to the right of the buttons, is something blocking it, a thick smudge? piece of tape? Plant leaf?

Miner
That sensor has always been really tricky. Usually to turn the tv off with the remote you have to be right in front of the tv (not at an angle) and less than 10 feet away.

I have a Broken RD50, think it is the motherboard since I took it apart and the light tunnel looked fine. I have 2 bulbs with the harness one brand new the other used but still good. If anyone is interested in buying it and the bulbs for parts, let me know.

I have a Broken RD50, think it is the motherboard since I took it apart and the light tunnel looked fine. I have 2 bulbs with the harness one brand new the other used but still good. If anyone is interested in buying it and the bulbs for parts, let me know.
Maybe if the price was right. Buying bulbs without any sort of warranty is a huge risk.

Hello All,

Please help a fellow owner who's set is down. Starting last week, when I turn on the set, startup takes longer than usual. When screen finaly lights up, it's filled wtth horizontal jagged black and white lines. After 5-10 seconds, the set shuts down, leaving the Power and Lamp lights on. I’ve tried replacing lamp with no effect.

Called TSC (Set is out of warranty), who said from the symptoms, they thought it was either the I-O Board, the Main Board or the Light Engine. I ruled out the Light Engine because of expense; if that's the problem, I'd rather buy a new set. They didn't have the Main Board in stock, so I ordered the I-O board, but it didn't fix the problem. Now I'm waiting for them to get Main Boards in, and they don't know when. Anybody have any suggestions, or have a Main Board to sell?


Thanks,
Ngage

Hello,
long time owner of a 65A. Anyways, after about 9000 hours the bulb went out. Replaced bulb and then started noticing that the tv was hard to get started.
Sometimes would take two cycles with the power button. any ideas???

Derek

Well I just replaced the bulb in my RD50 and had an interesting experience. I ordered a replacement bulb on-line (OSRAM P-VIP 100-120/1.3 23H) for $135 and when I got it it was made in "PRC". The bulb lasted 2 days and blew. Returned it and was fortunate enough that the vendor refunded my money. Well I found another vendor selling the same bulb that was made in Germany for $159. Bought it, installed it, and it's working flawlessly. Are these Chinese bulbs REALLY OSRAM, or are they knock-offs???

Now I have to tackle the right side vertical shadow. I sent a PM to the poster who successfully did this repair on his RD65, has anyone else done the repair? Any words of wisdom or even better instructions??

Thanks!

Steve

What are the typical Fan Voltage readings and system temperature for an Optoma RD50? I was checking mine recently after replacing a blown lamp and most Fan Voltages were 8 volts, but one was up to 13! Is that okay? System temp was 30 degrees.

-Steve

My DVD is using av2 and I have HD in HD2 on my rd50. I can get audio out to my amp/receiver but I cannot hook it up to my HD. there seems to be only one audio out. Consequently, I have to listen to sound when watching HD through the sets internal speaker and can listen to suround sound only when using AV2. Any one have a work-around for this?

My DVD is using av2 and I have HD in HD2 on my rd50. I can get audio out to my amp/receiver but I cannot hook it up to my HD. there seems to be only one audio out. Consequently, I have to listen to sound when watching HD through the sets internal speaker and can listen to surround sound only when using AV2. Any one have a work-around for this? Feel free to contact me directly!! Thanks

Well I just replaced the bulb in my RD50 and had an interesting experience. I ordered a replacement bulb on-line (OSRAM P-VIP 100-120/1.3 23H) for $135 and when I got it it was made in "PRC". The bulb lasted 2 days and blew. Returned it and was fortunate enough that the vendor refunded my money. Well I found another vendor selling the same bulb that was made in Germany for $159. Bought it, installed it, and it's working flawlessly. Are these Chinese bulbs REALLY OSRAM, or are they knock-offs???

Now I have to tackle the right side vertical shadow. I sent a PM to the poster who successfully did this repair on his RD65, has anyone else done the repair? Any words of wisdom or even better instructions??

Thanks!

Steve

Dear Everyone

Here are the light tunnel repair instructions for anyone who needs them. Some people who have tried this got good results. Others not so good. Take your time and follow each step. Be really carefull when you glue the mirrors back in. You can do this and the results will restore your TV.

Read below the link will take you to a previous post with short instructions and 3 very important pictures.

Then below this link are detailed instructions. Good luck this TV can display a great picture. Clean all the mirrors inside the case you can reach thru the rubber boot.

I can be reached at my e-maill

bobkrause cavtel.net

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=543785&page=21&pp=30&highlight=RD65

Take the back cover off the TV Its about15 to 20 small screws. Take off any side panel vents this will help get the parts out later.

Once the cover is off you should notice 3 items. On the right is the power supply in the middle is the optics assembly and on the left is main board. You need to remove the main board and the power supply to get the optical assembly out.

You will have to loosen some screws to get the main board out and also remove some connectors. I recommend taking pictures and labeling everything in a step by step manor. There is not much holding the power supply on the right. I think its just a couple of black screws. You don't have to get the main board or power supply completely out just moved to the side. You might also have to remove a cooling fan attached to the power supply because I could not get the cable out.

Once you have made enough room you can now go after the optic assembly. As you look at it you will notice it is attached to a platform. The Platform has 4 screws that connect the assembly to it. There are two on each side. You must remove only these 4 screws. If you have the right ones your screw driver will be parall with the floor. This assembly has lots of screws but only four are on the side of the assembly. Once you have them loosened along with some more cables you should be able to pull the assembly straight back toward you. It will sort of pop as the main lense comes through a rubber boot.

Now as you look at the assembly there are about 5 screws that hold the wave guide together. Remove them and pry open the wave guide. It will take some force and keep in mind that the DLP assembly is the flat square box attached to it. You don't have to open the DLP part at all. Just the five screws. Also there are two dark gray card board things on the assembly. Leave them alone also. Just take your time and slowly pry it apart. There is small dab of glue on the assembly that must give before you can get it totally open.

Once it is loose look over where the guide attaches to the black plastic box that holds the light. you will see the color wheel and beside it is the light tunnel. The tunnel is held in by 3 screws. Remove them and you should see the actual tunnel underneath it and you can now remove it and do the repairs on the mirrors. The entire light tunnel is about the size of your little finger.

Careful don't drop the light tunnel and watch out the mirrors are probably ready to fall out. Get a very high temp epoxy from an auto parts store. Get some latex gloves to wear and take lots of time on the mirrors. They need to be glued in a certain way. Think of each mirror being glued to the middle of its side of the tunnel. Also you will probably want to clean the mirrors and remove the old glue. Do not get any glue on the inside surface of the mirror. Take lots of time here.

While the epoxy is drying go back to the TV and check the mirror you can see thru the rubber boot. It is probably covered with dust. Clean it also. Your entire hand can go thru the rubber boot so you can clean the mirror. There may also be another mirror in there that I could not get too.

Now the real fun put everything back together. Slowly step by step. Make sure you get all the connectors back in place. One that is easy to miss is the one on the inside of the main board. If you forget that one your connections on the front of the TV will be dead until you plug that plug back in.

Also watch out for the two prong connector on the main light source where the replaceable bulb goes. Make sure they are snug and that they don't pop out when you put the blub back in. During this repair you do not have to remove the blub. But you might want to check and make sure when you remove the blub and plug it back in that the big two prong connector that supplies the voltage to the lamp does not pop out. It did on me when I replaced the lamp about 4 months ago and the TV was dead until I pushed the connector so the lamp had power.

Now once you get everything back together double check your work and then turn on the TV and hope all those shadows are gone. An you see a pure blue screen as you change input sources.

Of course this is to be done at your own risk and make sure the TV Warranty has expired. Do this repair when you are rested and have about 4 hours of time without any distractions. Don't spread this out over several days. That will make doing it much harder.

The Maintenace menu can be brough up by inputing menu 619 menu. And you can turn the maintenance menu off the same way. Menu 619 menu.

Good luck Tim and let me know how it goes. My repairs were done on an RD65. If you have an RD50 it should be very similar. Just tighter working area.

Bob K

I have a Broken RD50, think it is the motherboard since I took it apart and the light tunnel looked fine. I have 2 bulbs with the harness one brand new the other used but still good. If anyone is interested in buying it and the bulbs for parts, let me know.

Sorry I didn't respond to any post, forgot to check back here. When I said buying it I meant the TV for parts and the Bulbs. I promise to check back this time.

Hi everyone i am new to the site i bought a used RD65 and the bulb blew up glass shards all in the glass dome. I was wondering i keep seeing the osram bulbs that say 100-120/1.3 e23 will these work in the RD65 and the RD50 cause all mine says is Osram 120/1.3 e23. I dont want to get a bulb that doesnt work so any help is greatly appreciated. Or what about the bulb BLVU120A? Also how do you replace the little fuse thats on the little motherboard i read somewhere that it needs replaced or it wont think there is a new bulb in and continue not to work but it looks like it is basically soldered in.

Dear Everyone

Here are the light tunnel repair instructions for anyone who needs them. Some people who have tried this got good results. Others not so good. Take your time and follow each step. Be really carefull when you glue the mirrors back in. You can do this and the results will restore your TV.

Read below the link will take you to a previous post with short instructions and 3 very important pictures.

Then below this link are detailed instructions. Good luck this TV can display a great picture. Clean all the mirrors inside the case you can reach thru the rubber boot.

I can be reached at my e-maill

bobkrause cavtel.net

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=543785&page=21&pp=30&highlight=RD65

Take the back cover off the TV Its about15 to 20 small screws. Take off any side panel vents this will help get the parts out later.

Once the cover is off you should notice 3 items. On the right is the power supply in the middle is the optics assembly and on the left is main board. You need to remove the main board and the power supply to get the optical assembly out.

You will have to loosen some screws to get the main board out and also remove some connectors. I recommend taking pictures and labeling everything in a step by step manor. There is not much holding the power supply on the right. I think its just a couple of black screws. You don't have to get the main board or power supply completely out just moved to the side. You might also have to remove a cooling fan attached to the power supply because I could not get the cable out.

Once you have made enough room you can now go after the optic assembly. As you look at it you will notice it is attached to a platform. The Platform has 4 screws that connect the assembly to it. There are two on each side. You must remove only these 4 screws. If you have the right ones your screw driver will be parall with the floor. This assembly has lots of screws but only four are on the side of the assembly. Once you have them loosened along with some more cables you should be able to pull the assembly straight back toward you. It will sort of pop as the main lense comes through a rubber boot.

Now as you look at the assembly there are about 5 screws that hold the wave guide together. Remove them and pry open the wave guide. It will take some force and keep in mind that the DLP assembly is the flat square box attached to it. You don't have to open the DLP part at all. Just the five screws. Also there are two dark gray card board things on the assembly. Leave them alone also. Just take your time and slowly pry it apart. There is small dab of glue on the assembly that must give before you can get it totally open.

Once it is loose look over where the guide attaches to the black plastic box that holds the light. you will see the color wheel and beside it is the light tunnel. The tunnel is held in by 3 screws. Remove them and you should see the actual tunnel underneath it and you can now remove it and do the repairs on the mirrors. The entire light tunnel is about the size of your little finger.

Careful don't drop the light tunnel and watch out the mirrors are probably ready to fall out. Get a very high temp epoxy from an auto parts store. Get some latex gloves to wear and take lots of time on the mirrors. They need to be glued in a certain way. Think of each mirror being glued to the middle of its side of the tunnel. Also you will probably want to clean the mirrors and remove the old glue. Do not get any glue on the inside surface of the mirror. Take lots of time here.

While the epoxy is drying go back to the TV and check the mirror you can see thru the rubber boot. It is probably covered with dust. Clean it also. Your entire hand can go thru the rubber boot so you can clean the mirror. There may also be another mirror in there that I could not get too.

Now the real fun put everything back together. Slowly step by step. Make sure you get all the connectors back in place. One that is easy to miss is the one on the inside of the main board. If you forget that one your connections on the front of the TV will be dead until you plug that plug back in.

Also watch out for the two prong connector on the main light source where the replaceable bulb goes. Make sure they are snug and that they don't pop out when you put the blub back in. During this repair you do not have to remove the blub. But you might want to check and make sure when you remove the blub and plug it back in that the big two prong connector that supplies the voltage to the lamp does not pop out. It did on me when I replaced the lamp about 4 months ago and the TV was dead until I pushed the connector so the lamp had power.

Now once you get everything back together double check your work and then turn on the TV and hope all those shadows are gone. An you see a pure blue screen as you change input sources.

Of course this is to be done at your own risk and make sure the TV Warranty has expired. Do this repair when you are rested and have about 4 hours of time without any distractions. Don't spread this out over several days. That will make doing it much harder.

The Maintenace menu can be brough up by inputing menu 619 menu. And you can turn the maintenance menu off the same way. Menu 619 menu.

Good luck Tim and let me know how it goes. My repairs were done on an RD65. If you have an RD50 it should be very similar. Just tighter working area.

Bob K
I'll say.

I tried this, but it seems like it's a different setup. I wasn't able to find the 4 screws on the sides of the platform. Looked like a total nightmare to get to. Board on the left was impossible to pull out very far due to direct connections. Gonna' call the service people and see what it's going to cost me to have them do it.

Thanks for all your time and efforts.

O.K. I figured out the dust blob thing. I asked enough people and received little help. Who woulda' thunk it was so simple?

I removed the screen only to find a pile of dust on the bottom mirror. The whole main mirror/inside screen area was full of dust! After painstakingly working to clean it up, I achieved great success! There is still dust floating around in there and I can see this becoming a regular maintenance kind of thing.

I would sure like a professional maid to take it to task. Is there any way to rid the dust for longer periods, like, say some kind of anti-static stuff?

Man does this TV look good! I forgot just how beautiful this thing is!

Hello Everybody!This thread has been very helpful, I just want to say thank you for everyone that has given information. Moving forward :)

I repaired the light tunnel on my optoma rd50 and when I turned the unit back on it looked wonderful..as good as new, but then after like 30 seconds it shuts off and the temperature light starts flashing. Do you have any idea what could be wrong? I am 95% positive I hooked everything back up properly. The fans appear to be spinning. Thanks for any help you might be able to give I'm having a hard time finding answers on the web..

I know this is probably the most primitive picture ever posted on this website but its the best I can do at this point:)

Does anyone know which one of these ports the fan is supposed to be plugged into? I know I should have paid more attention and taken pictures but the only camera I have is the horrible one I used for this picture. I dont think this is my problem anyway but I have to try something because I'm getting a red light on the temperature light for some reason. I know this post is a long shot but I have to try something .Thanks so much..g





http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/gottifour/IMAGE_00007-1.jpg



By the way this is the back side of the light assembly I guess I should mention that.

Does anyone know what normally causes the temp light to come on? Maybe there is something else I should be checking?

HELLO RD50 AND RD65 ONWERS I HAVE LOVED MY DLP RD50 TV ,IVE HAD ISSUES FROM TIME TO TIME (DMD FAN FAILURE SHUTTING DOWN) OTHERWISE DIDNT OCCUR THAT OFTEN WOULD START UP AFTER SHUTTING ITSELF DOWN.
BUT LAST WEEK THE DISPLAY STARTED ACTING UP KINDA OF LIKE A SHAWDOWEY AND GLAZED LOOK.
I WOULD TURN IT OFF AND WOULD BE OK FOR 15-25 MIN THEN IT WOULD AGAIN ACTING UP. KINDA GOT WORSE AND THEN I TURNED IT OFF.
AND THATS IT. I THOUGHT THE BULB FAILED REPLACE NO CHANGE
I DO HAVE VOLTAGE TO THE BULB SO THAT TELLS ME THE BALIST SHOULD BE OK AND GETTING 140 ACV AT THE BULBS SO THE POWER SUPPLY IS MIGHT BE GOOD. AFTER READING THE THREADS POSTED HERE SOUNDS LIKE MY ENGINE DRIVE OR MOTHER BOARD HAS FAILED BUT NOTSURE OF WHAT
THE UNIT ATTEMPTS TO POWER UP BUT NOW I HERE A NOTICABLE WHINE TYPE NOISE WHICH GOES AWAY AFTER 5-10 SEC .
THEN THE UNIT AFTER AWHILE SHUTS ITSELF DOWN WITH BOTH RED LEDS
STAYING ON!!!!! :confused::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
ANY IDEAS I LEANING TOWARDS THE ENG DRIVE . THATS SEEMS LIKE THE SAME AS OTHER POSTS HERE.DESCRIBING A NOISE WITH THE RD50 FAILURE
I HAVE THE RD50 MODEL

Hello everybody.
This is my first post here. I am looking for a dmd board for a optima rd65 hdtv. I was told at by factory tech phone line i need to replace the keypad (49.00), The main board 399.00 and the dmd board 399.00 all because my current dmd board is bad. They apparently updated all 3 since my tv was built in 2004 and you can't just replace the dmd board alone. So my question is Does anyone have or can tell me were to get a used dmd board for a 2004 rd65 hdtv? I would like to swap this only if at all possible. All replies are greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance NICK:

yep same situation as nick1960
called optoma and spoke with a tech tried to sell the bulb first but i already have replaced it. need new keypad, mb, drive eng. to expensive to repair i guess its going to up space for now till i figure out something maybee they will come down in price.
my guess this will become more of problem in the next couple of years when everbodys rd50/rd65 begin failing its crappy that the parts are soo expensive. otherwise i would fix it bulb from optoma 375??????? drive eng 700???????? thats 1/2 of what i bought it for
anyway hope this helps other rd50 owners if the bulb appears ok its most likely something else.

I'm having a similar problem with my RD50. Occasionally it shuts off by itself with both LEDs on (one flashing) After a few seconds the flashing stops, and then I can turn the TV back on again and everything is fine. Sometimes it happens again a few minutes later, sometime it works fine for weeks before happening again. I've had the RD50 for almost 2 years and this this problem started after I had it about one year. I called Optoma and they suggested replacing the bulb, however the bulb had less than 500 hours on it at the time (I think it's still under 1000hrs). I purchased a replacement buld on eBay however I have not installed it as the original bulb seems fine (when the TV is on). Sounds like it could be an overheating problem (someone mentioned a DMD fan failure). What puzzles me is the erratic rate of occurance, sometimes it shuts down several times a day, but then it can go for weeks with no problems. Any suggestions ?

wayne its starting to fail just like mine & the other post here enjoy your rd50 while it lasts then it becomes a bunch of parts. call optoma and tech supp they will ask for build date 3/2004-4/2004 antything b4 that is no good first generation. hope it helps mine did the same thing your posting here and end result rd50 failed to expensive to repair. and i bought a bulb to try and still have a dead rd50 get rid of it and save some bucks b-4 it goes might be worth 300 right now check ebay for rd50s and youll see alot of dead ones indication of bad product first design.
hope this helps

Just brought mine back to Costco for a full refund.
Getting a Sony KDS60A2020

Just brought mine back to Costco for a full refund.
Sweet! I didn't know they were still doing that.

Gotta' love Costco indeed!

I'm knocking on wood as my 2 2/3 yr. old RD50A is still operating beautifully! Hopefully it stays that way for a long time.

I'll say.

I tried this, but it seems like it's a different setup. I wasn't able to find the 4 screws on the sides of the platform. Looked like a total nightmare to get to. Board on the left was impossible to pull out very far due to direct connections. Gonna' call the service people and see what it's going to cost me to have them do it.

Thanks for all your time and efforts.

I suspect this poster has an early RD 50 like me. There is a DVI type connector that plugs into the upper surface of the main board that prevents you from sliding the main board assembly out. You have to ease it out a little, put your arm in and unscrew the two thumb screws, then pull it straight up. If you don't have skinny arms you will have to get it through the front.

Now for my problem.

I just took my RD50 apart to fix the loose mirror in the light tunnel problem. I got it all back together, definitely not a job for the faint hearted nor ham handed, but when I powered it on it took a long time and then flashed the Bulb LED on. The fans seem to be running OK, the lamp looks OK, and the compartment door interlock seems OK too. What are the odds that my old lamp has given up the ghost versus me missing one of the cables or breaking something?

I suspect this poster has an early RD 50 like me. There is a DVI type connector that plugs into the upper surface of the main board that prevents you from sliding the main board assembly out. You have to ease it out a little, put your arm in and unscrew the two thumb screws, then pull it straight up. If you don't have skinny arms you will have to get it through the front.

Now for my problem.

I just took my RD50 apart to fix the loose mirror in the light tunnel problem. I got it all back together, definitely not a job for the faint hearted nor ham handed, but when I powered it on it took a long time and then flashed the Bulb LED on. The fans seem to be running OK, the lamp looks OK, and the compartment door interlock seems OK too. What are the odds that my old lamp has given up the ghost versus me missing one of the cables or breaking something?
All I know is mine's an RD50A.

No idea what's up with yours. I'm guessing you tried unplugging it?

wow the took back the rd50 at costco after 2 years did you have a extended warr? wanye.

wonder if costco like to buy back mine lol

I bought mine at Costco too. What's the deal with them taking them back? Thankfully, mine has never given me any problems (yet).

hi slack, if you have the rd50 model take it back if you have the rd50a model hope for the best

I've got the RD50 model. I guess I had better try and dig up the receipt. I'm pretty sure i've still got it. Under what pretense would I return it? I like the TV, i'm just disappointed that Optoma quit making them and that its always one step away from being an empty shell.

Well crap!

I passed out on the couch with the sleep timer set for 90 minutes last night. Went to turn it on this morning and nothing.

Here's what it does...

The normal red light on the left is now yellow/orange. That's it. No response to anything.

Earlier, the light was red and when I pressed it, the temp light would flash on and off quickly and the red light would turn orange and back to red.

As I said, now... nothing.

I tried unplugging it for hours. No help.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Sketch

Topped for help with the above question

Does anyone know how to get a "Service Manual" for a RD50A? I replaced my bulb after pic went black, it was getting alittle dim. I watched for 4 hours, and then 8 hours, now it only stays on for about 8 seconds, then goes black. Audio is fine. I was talking w/ a guy at bestbuy, and he said it may just need an adjustment in the convergence box. He found a dlp in the dumpster, and made a minor adjustment, now works fine. Any clue's? I have looked front and back, cleaned fans, adjusted the 2 copper things at the bulb area, I really hate to trash this set just yet.

Need of parts
I have a RD50 referb from Optoma that I'am willing to part with and extra lamp too

i going to list my rd50 on ebay with local pick up and see what happens
im sure someone will buy it thats got the know how to fix it

Ugh,
I just joined the "RD50A bulb go boom" club. Not a good week here. Not sure what I'm gonna do w/ it yet. I'm closing on a house soon so all my expendables are tied up in that.

Help!

I have purchased two bulbs online and had to send both back. My RD65H has an OSRAM bulb 1.3 E23. The bulbs I got were E23h. I could look at the internal structure of the new bulbs and see they were not the same as the original but the bulb fit so I tried installing. The new one just worked the first time. After that it was a coin toss if the set would light up or time out. I really don't want to pay $350 for a whole new unit!

Can ANYONE tell me where to buy the correct bulb? I see others have had the same problem but no one has posted a source for the correct bulb.

google optoma and contact them for parts

I wish it was that easy. Optoma will not even acknowledge that you can swap the bulb without swapping the whole cage. That's a bill of $350.

the repair est was $510 and quoted as needing a ballast parts and labor and also said that was the first thing to replace because the bulb is not powering up . it only cost me $50 to get it looked at. anyway i dont think its worth the $200 ballast from optoma considering it may have other issues i could install it myself. has anyone replaced the ballast and that wasn't the problem ?

the repair est was $510 and quoted as needing a ballast parts and labor and also said that was the first thing to replace because the bulb is not powering up . it only cost me $50 to get it looked at. anyway i dont think its worth the $200 ballast from optoma considering it may have other issues i could install it myself. has anyone replaced the ballast and that wasn't the problem ?
I just gave mine away to a tinkerer a few weeks ago. Too poor to replace it at the moment.

Not too stoked.

I used to work on Lumonics laser equipment. I found my RD65 very similar in overall design for the concept for projection.

The Light tunnel mirrors have come loose and needed to be reglued into place.

VERY IMPORTANT " THE MIRRORS WILL FALL OUT WHEN YOU GO TO HANDLE THE ASSEMBLY. BE VERY CAREFUL SO THEY DO NOT DROP ON HARD SURFACE AND CHIP THE MIRRORS. "

I Went to AutoZone and purchased JB Weld PT#8265 TWO tubes in a pack Epoxy Steel. This producyt is good for 500 degrees F. 600 degrees F. for short period of time. http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php Per their website instructions, I used Acetone for the cleaner prior to reassembly.
ALCOHOL LEAVES A RESIDUE.

Q: What can I use as a surface cleaner before using J-B Weld?
A: We recommend using acetone or lacquer thinner. In the absence of these two, soap and water can be used. Just be sure that the surface is completely dry before applying J-B Weld. DO NOT use alcohol, or any other �cleaner� that will leave a petroleum residue.

I reglued mirros into place and let sit 16 hours before reinstalling into the optics assembly.

Cleaned out entire chassis with compressed can of air duster for computers from Office Depot and vacuumed entire area. Also cleaned the screen....TV LOOKS GREAT. Thanks for the info found here.

I have a question.... On my set the opening between the lamp and the color wheel is wide open to air. The port does not have any glass cover as I thought it should. I do not understand why it would be left open for all the dust to get into the optics. Is it that a part was left off my set or is there supposed to be a glass seal here? It looks as though there is a click in holder for glass but none exists on my set.

Anyone have the answer.

Russ Trego

:)THANK GOD THE MORE I KNOW THE BETTER OFF IAM DLP ARE POORLY DESIGNED AND ARE BECOMING A HIGH FAILURE RATE NOW LIKE A YUGO
GOOD FOR A FEW YEARS THEN JUNK NOT EVEN WORTH FIXING AND BECOMING PROBLEMATIC ANY WAY:confused: GOOD LUCK TOO THE REST OF THE OPTOMAS THAT ARE HANGING IN THERE. I WOULD EXPECT ALOT OF POST HERE IN THE COMING YEARS :mad:.
AS FOR NOW I BEEN TO BEST BUY CIRCUIT CITY ETC AND HAVE LOOKED OVER EVERTHING AND I FEEL THAT THE TECHNOGILY IS THERE FOR A TRUELY AWESOME TV SET AND THE SONYS AND SAMSUNG ARE HOLDING OUT TILL THEY SELL THE RECENT INVENTORY SO IAM WAITING TILL THE END OF 2008 AROUND BLACK FRIDAY TO GET AN AWESOME DEAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:D:D:D:D:D:D

Does anyone know what I could check regarding a black and white picture? Thanks to anyone who actually sees this post...g

Does anyone know what I could check regarding a black and white picture? Thanks to anyone who actually sees this post...g

My first thought was the color wheel stopped turning, but if that happens I would think the image would be a single color and not black and white, but perhaps the color wheel also has a clear portion for white. The color wheel does add some noise to the TV, but it is in the same general area of lamp fan. If you remove the back panel, I think you can see the color wheel.

If you go into the menu or advanced menu do any changes to color or tint or saturation change anything?

Also try unplugging (after complete shut off and cool down) the tv waiting 30 seconds or so and restarting?

My first thought was the color wheel stopped turning, but if that happens I would think the image would be a single color and not black and white, but perhaps the color wheel also has a clear portion for white. The color wheel does add some noise to the TV, but it is in the same general area of lamp fan. If you remove the back panel, I think you can see the color wheel.

If you go into the menu or advanced menu do any changes to color or tint or saturation change anything?

Also try unplugging (after complete shut off and cool down) the tv waiting 30 seconds or so and restarting?

Thanks so much for the advice I have tried the cool down process to no avail. When I go into the menu and adjust color or tint it just makes it brighter or darker. I think I'm probably one of the only people watching a HD black and white tv :)

Do you know about how big the color wheel would be? Thanks again for your help...

gottifour,

I've looked at photos I have of the system and the color wheel is not readily visible unless you take apart the light engine, which is guts of the TV. To get to it requires pretty much gutting the insides of the TV, and if it is the color wheel, I think you are SOL because getting a replacement would be next to impossible, based on most parts availability.
Have you tried a different input from a different source? Could it be your tuner if your watching OTA? Or your cable box? Try a VCR or DVD player to the front imput just to rule out a loose cable at the back or a bad cable box.
Miner

gottifour,

I've looked at photos I have of the system and the color wheel is not readily visible unless you take apart the light engine, which is guts of the TV. To get to it requires pretty much gutting the insides of the TV, and if it is the color wheel, I think you are SOL because getting a replacement would be next to impossible, based on most parts availability.
Have you tried a different input from a different source? Could it be your tuner if your watching OTA? Or your cable box? Try a VCR or DVD player to the front imput just to rule out a loose cable at the back or a bad cable box.
Miner


Thanks again for the reply..

I had the light tunnel mirrors fail on me and I have had the whole light engine out. So I should be able to get to it again if need be.The color problem happened before I took the light tunnel apart so I have ruled out me messing something up. Unless the mirrors slipping off of the light tunnel had something to do with the color problem. I did try other inputs and devices. Its about time for a 1080P unit anyway. I guess this will justify it for me. I was hoping it was something simple but its starting to look like its not. Thanks for all of your suggestions. d

gotti,

Since you had the light engine out you're familiar with the insides of the TV and the various electronics section. If you opened the light engine, the color wheel is right next to the light tunnel, between it and the lamp assy. I'm still thinking that if the wheel itself failed it would be more likely to fail in a single color than in white. If you open the light engine and open the housing, I would think all you could do is make sure the wheel rotates, and if so, put everything back together and make sure all the wires are connected.
With spare parts and qualified service being rare, the TV is going to be a spare part's source in the future. I got mine for next to nothing because of the light tunnel failure and the original owner found it cheaper to sell and buy a new TV than to ship back to Optoma for repairs.
Miner

Does anyone need an extra bulb for this TV? I am selling mine as I needed a LCD to hang on the wall for my new house and never got to use the extra bulb I purchased. It's brand new and never used. PM me if interested!

Does anyone need an extra bulb for this TV? I am selling mine as I needed a LCD to hang on the wall for my new house and never got to use the extra bulb I purchased. It's brand new and never used. PM me if interested!
PM sent.

I am now back to this thread after a long hiatus. My Optoma is closing in on 8000 hours and I think I need a new lamp soon. I have had no others problems with it.

EDIT: Recently the screen has gone black 3X total over the last few weeks and I had to turn of the TV completely (flashing green, flashing red, then solid red) before turning it on again to get it to work. I have noticed (maybe just my imagination) that the screen looks a little darker than when I first bought it, which would also indicate the need for a bulb change.

PM sent.

I am now back to this thread after a long hiatus. My Optoma is closing in on 8000 hours and I think I need a new lamp soon. I have had no others problems with it.

EDIT: Recently the screen has gone black 3X total over the last few weeks and I had to turn of the TV completely (flashing green, flashing red, then solid red) before turning it on again to get it to work. I have noticed (maybe just my imagination) that the screen looks a little darker than when I first bought it, which would also indicate the need for a bulb change.

I see the same with my 4+ year old RD50H, I'm sure the picture is darker, but I'm afraid to replace the lamp assembly (I have one as a spare), I don't want to muck things up, I've had zero problems with the tv.

I see the same with my 4+ year old RD50H, I'm sure the picture is darker, but I'm afraid to replace the lamp assembly (I have one as a spare), I don't want to muck things up, I've had zero problems with the tv.
Well, it finally happened.

I cam home from work after posting yesterday, tried to turn on the TV to watch the NBA Finals and I only got a blank/black screen even though the TV powered up fine and the light in front was green.

Seems like it is lamp replacement time.

Anyone know how to locate the Ballast on a rd50a. 2nd post: replaced bulb, picture goes black, audio still works. PLEASE HELP! Service manual surfaced yet? email me at yelknip411@yahoo.com if you can give me guidance. Thanks:D

Anyone know how to locate the Ballast on a rd50a. 2nd post: replaced bulb, picture goes black, audio still works. PLEASE HELP! Service manual surfaced yet? email me at yelknip411@yahoo.com if you can give me guidance. Thanks:D
I think you are having the same problem I am having. I replaced the lamp (thanks to hokieman who posted the offer above), however every so often the screen goes black while I am watching TV for long periods of time. The audio still works and the light in front stays green, but there is no picture. When I turn off the TV and turn it on again, the picture comes on and the TV is back to normal, for an hour or two before the screen goes black again.

I called Optoma and they referred me to their out of warranty tech service number. The CSR guessed that it was the motherboard going bad and with tax and shipping it would cost $399 just for the part.

This problem come up more after switching from Dish Network to AT&T U-verse. After switching back to Dish Network, the problem is less frequent. I also have a suspicion that the TV might be getting too hot when the picture goes black.

Either way, I think it is time to start looking for a new TV.

I received an email from a previous poster,

-----Inline Attachment Follows-----

While it may be a ballast. It could also be a cooling fan failure. So if the TV lights up for a very short time and then shuts back down it could be a fan has gone bad. I think there are three fans. One on the computer mother boards. One on the TV case and one that cools the bulb. I do not have a manual plus I owned an RD65 and sold it over two years ago. So my brain could be just a little fuzzy. But I do remember fans not working will cause an instant shutdown. Taking the plate off the back should help you observe the fans. These fans appear to be the same type fans you find in a computer case. I wish I could help you more. But that's the best I can do.

I just feel that this problem is fixable without going to huge expense. I am not ready to give up yet. I just need some pic's or a manual to do some more trouble shooting.

I did take the back off, there was very little dust, I cleaned the fans in the sides, and the small one in the back, I cleaned as best I could at the bulb. It's hard to know if that one is actually running since the cover has to be in place to turn the unit on.

If anyone has a clue, let me know.

I received an email from a previous poster,

-----Inline Attachment Follows-----

While it may be a ballast. It could also be a cooling fan failure. So if the TV lights up for a very short time and then shuts back down it could be a fan has gone bad. I think there are three fans. One on the computer mother boards. One on the TV case and one that cools the bulb. I do not have a manual plus I owned an RD65 and sold it over two years ago. So my brain could be just a little fuzzy. But I do remember fans not working will cause an instant shutdown. Taking the plate off the back should help you observe the fans. These fans appear to be the same type fans you find in a computer case. I wish I could help you more. But that's the best I can do.

I just feel that this problem is fixable without going to huge expense. I am not ready to give up yet. I just need some pic's or a manual to do some more trouble shooting.

I did take the back off, there was very little dust, I cleaned the fans in the sides, and the small one in the back, I cleaned as best I could at the bulb. It's hard to know if that one is actually running since the cover has to be in place to turn the unit on.

If anyone has a clue, let me know.
Isn't there a switch you can depress or button you can tape down to trick the unit into believing the cover is in place? Then you could observe the operation of the fans during normal operation and during a picture failure to see if there is any difference.

I received an email from a previous poster,

-----Inline Attachment Follows-----

While it may be a ballast. It could also be a cooling fan failure. So if the TV lights up for a very short time and then shuts back down it could be a fan has gone bad. I think there are three fans. One on the computer mother boards. One on the TV case and one that cools the bulb. I do not have a manual plus I owned an RD65 and sold it over two years ago. So my brain could be just a little fuzzy. But I do remember fans not working will cause an instant shutdown. Taking the plate off the back should help you observe the fans. These fans appear to be the same type fans you find in a computer case. I wish I could help you more. But that's the best I can do.

I just feel that this problem is fixable without going to huge expense. I am not ready to give up yet. I just need some pic's or a manual to do some more trouble shooting.

I did take the back off, there was very little dust, I cleaned the fans in the sides, and the small one in the back, I cleaned as best I could at the bulb. It's hard to know if that one is actually running since the cover has to be in place to turn the unit on.

If anyone has a clue, let me know.
Well, I think I solved my problem.

I inspected my TV late last Saturday after the picture had gone black for the 3rd time that evening. Feeling the vent on the left side of the unit (facing the screen) that is nearest to the lamp I felt an unusual amount of heat coming through. As I looked in closer I saw that the lamp was still on and the tv was still running even though it was not producing a picture.

I unscrewed the side vent (it is snapped in place and then held there with 2 small screws), I saw that the vent had an screen on the inside that was covered in dust. I took off the vent on the other side and it was also covered in dust. I turned the unit back on and ran it without the vents in place and it operated just fine. Eventually I blew the dust off the vents (just with my own breath cause I didn't have any compressed air handy) and snapped them back into place, without the screws.

The unit has been operating without incident ever since. Earlier that day I was in Best Buy to check out the picture on a new Samsung DLP. I'm glad that I can now wait indefinitely on making that purchase.

When my RD50 starts giving me grief, its going into the trash. Been rocking it since 2002 with no issues, so I can't complain to much.

How long drying time needed for glue before you put back into place and view your work? Ray

Sorry forgot to ask what brand name of glue did you use on the mirrors and how much application is needed to keep mirrors in place? Ray

I would love to fix this problem myself but want to know what brand name of epoxy did you use and how much application do you put on the mirrors and for how long do you let it sit before you put together for viewing?I just repaired the light tunnel on my Optoma RD65. It should be similar for RD50 or RD65. The shadow your seeing on the screen is probably caused by mirrors in the light tunnel moving around. A very poor epoxy glue was used in the tunnels manufacture. This is going to hit most all RD65 and RD50 models. Great thing about this problem is it probably won't happen until the warranty is expired and you will be looking at a $1000 repair bill caused by a mirror assembly that can't be worth more then $25.

You can fix this if your the least bit handy and don't mind taking a risk to fix it. Took me about 4 hours to do. If I had to do it again I figure about 2 hours. I purchased a very good high temperture expoxy at my local auto parts store to glue the mirrors back in. Be real carefull with the mirrors because they will all
fall out and could break on a hard surface. Anyone wanting more information send me a request. Better also use surgical gloves when you get ready to glue the mirrors.

I have attached three pictures so you can see where this light tunnel is.

It feels real good to look at this TV and not have that nasty looking shadow on the right side.

Bob K

I have an Optoma RD65 manufactured in May 2004;
It's totally dead; no power at all; no power to the power supply fan.
I checked the bridge recifier and do have approximately 155Vdc and 5Vdc coming from
one lead but that's about it. No clicking, no flashing lights, nothing.
Can anyone help?

Thanks,

Sorry forgot to ask what brand name of glue did you use on the mirrors and how much application is needed to keep mirrors in place? Ray

I used super glue. I put the 4 mirrors in place and stuffed cotton swabs (q-tips) to hold the mirror tight against the housing, and then a drop or 2 of super glue in the holes in the housing. Been 3 months or so and the glue appears to be holding well. I figured it wasn't going to take much holding power to keep the glass in place, and didn't want to risk too thick a layer of epoxy causing problems.

Miner

I have an Optoma RD65 manufactured in May 2004;
It's totally dead; no power at all; no power to the power supply fan.
I checked the bridge recifier and do have approximately 155Vdc and 5Vdc coming from
one lead but that's about it. No clicking, no flashing lights, nothing.
Can anyone help?

Thanks,

What do you mean bridge rectifier? Did you disassemble the power supply? Check the on/off switch on the side, the power plug in the back. I'm pretty sure all the electronics are 5 and 12 volt, and power to the bulb is ~350 V. If you have removed the cover over the bulb, there is an interlock switch to remove all power, make sure the screws holding the cover are tight.

PM me if you have other questions. I don't regularly view this thread anymore.

Miner

The picture turns on for a second and then it goes out. The audio works great. Not sure what is wrong with the tv but it may be something easy to fix?

After 4 years of owning the RD50A I just received the message that my lamp needs replacement. My question is do I need to replace the whole lamp or just the bulb? Also, does anyone know a good place to purchase a replacement bulb/lamp.

This is discussed earlier in the thread but I do not know what page. I seem to remember some folks replacing just the bulb which they were able to find on ebay.

I have the same message on mine right now. The message is triggered by just the number of hours on the TV. I actually got the message within the first year and just reset the hours in the service menu to make the message go away.

I am putting off buying one as long as I can but I know I am close so I hope some others will post with more recent information on bulb replacement. Everywhere I have found is around $300-$350.

I just realized that I've had my RD50A running on the same bulb since 2005. With the exception of that first bulb, which I got replaced via warranty, this has been a really outstanding TV for the price. I'm planning to buy a 720p projector in the next six months and go LARGE; hopefully, the ol' Optoma holds out that much longer. Either way, I'll replace the bulb and keep this TV as my everyday unit. The picture still looks beautiful, and I never did have it calibrated.

Sold my 65 today to a local guy, kind of sad to see it go even though I replaced it with a Samsung HL67a750.

This is my first post. I have owned two RD50A's since 2005, which I purchased from VA. The set with the most use displayed the bulb end of life message last week. The message came on for a few days, and now it's gone. I did order a new lamp from Thenerds.com for $289, including shipping, but now don't seem to need it.

I'm now using the normal setting for most things, but many shows seem quite dark...I don't think it's the RD50A, but if the lamp is at the end of it's life, would my picture be darker, or would it simply go black?

Could somebody explain to me how to use the HD2 input?

I'm not familiar with these types of inputs twist lock connector type of deal.

Also, when using RF i get barely noticeable lines through the screen (not really a tuner issue it hink but maybe more with the signal coming in??) with direc tv sd. Using Svideo is fine but the pictures is defiantly blurrier.

[QUOTE=Husky42;15782956]Could somebody explain to me how to use the HD2 input?

I'm not familiar with these types of inputs twist lock connector type of deal.QUOTE]
Those are called BNC connectors, I got some RCA Female/BNC Male Adapters from bluejeanscable and use standard RCA cables to connect my DVD player to HD2.

Thanks grampy, i called magnolia then Apex since i live near them and they did not have them in stock but I will use that site you suggested.

Also with the DVI-D i need a 24 pin connector right? not the standard 16 pin type DVI connectors sold at walmart and like places?

I will be getting DTV HD in march as i cant really handle the SD resolution on this tv its not bad but i know it can be better after watching upconverted content on my sony dvd player.

I was going to use the DVI-D or RGB components using the BNC connectors. The other HD is being occupied by my DVD player atm.

So i really know nothing about RPTV"s and hope I did not pay too much for this one. $500 with two extra new lamps and one put in 3 months ago seemed like a good deal and the tv picture is fine, although the colour wheel does hum like others have stated and i'm considering paying for a new one from that guy at image perfection if the price is not too high, but from what i have read the colorwheel hum is normal for RD65's.

Husky,

The hum you hear is probably normal. My RD-50 and my GF's Toshiba have pretty much the same noticable hum.

All you need is a regular DVI-D cable between your box and TV.

For your BNC inputs (HD2), I think Radio Shack sells them also.

Miner

The screen on my Optoma RD50 has started to go blank about 10-20 seconds after it comes on. It goes through the normal startup procedures of turning the tv on and it warms up for about 30 seconds, then the screen comes alive for a few seconds and then goes blank, everything else stays normal, the power light stays green, etc. Not sure where to start on this and would appreciate any input.

J

The screen on my Optoma RD50 has started to go blank about 10-20 seconds after it comes on. It goes through the normal startup procedures of turning the tv on and it warms up for about 30 seconds, then the screen comes alive for a few seconds and then goes blank, everything else stays normal, the power light stays green, etc. Not sure where to start on this and would appreciate any input.

J

My first thought is the ballast or the lamp. Second thought is the power supply. When the TV goes dark, does the sound stay on? The ballast provides startup and running voltage for the lamp. I wouldn't think the lamp would start, then after ballast switches to running voltage would go out, but I guess it's possible. The power supply sends a constant voltage (~340 VDC) to the ballast so I would also doubt it drop after the ballast switches to running mode. From what I hear, though, the ballast is hard to come by and rather pricey. The bulb (correct 5 kV start) is available and would be the first place to start. The downside to the RD series, so few parts and so few people who know how to troubleshoot. I have a spare 15 kV bulb that will work 1 or 2 starts, then stop working with the ballast. I can send it to you if you are willing to try. It is a bare bulb only (no cartridge) so it requires some mechanical dexterity.

Miner

If the bulb is bad would it work at all? Everything about the TV is normal except the picture going blank part, all of the front light operate normally, power light stays green when the screen goes dark, blinks when I shut off and then turns red when it's done its cooling off period. Is there someplace I can monitor the voltage coming out of the ballast to see if it drops? Is there anything else that would make the ballast stop sending voltage? Thanks in advance for any guidance. J

My thought is because the bulb needs the high voltage to get started, perhaps the bulb is just at the point where once the starting voltage drops back to operating, the arc loses the fire and the lamp goes dim. As I understand, the lamp on the front panel gets it's signal from the ballast, which monitor's feedback from the lamp, but is more tuned towards a bulb that is failed. Without some serious work, there are no pionts where you could monitor voltage. That's part of why troubleshooting is hard, esp without spare parts to test.

Miner

Thanks for explaining about the bulb. I'll see if I can get anything out of Tech support in the morning and perhaps get back to you about that spare bulb. Thanks again for the replys

J

Thanks for explaining about the bulb. I'll see if I can get anything out of Tech support in the morning and perhaps get back to you about that spare bulb. Thanks again for the replys

J

Sounds like a plan. PM when you find out and if you want me to mail the bulb.

Miner

Dish Network and the cable companies don't require you to buy the equipment, even the DVRs/PVRs (Tivo equivalent)..<snip>

Of course you mean as long as you RENT the Descambler/Receiver, right?
Before the digital revolution, you could BUY the cable descambler though.

Most HD receivers will have an ATSC tuner built in, but besides the tuner you will need to figure out what kind of antenna you need)..<snip>

True, but you only need it to receive "over the air" broadcasts.

I read all the other threads about cables. There is some real debate over the difference between $10 and $100 cables, especially in a run less than 10ft., with a company like Monster being on the high end..

As far as I'm concerned every extra penny you spend on cables, is a penny wasted. I do like the pretty gold plated connectors, but whether they make ANY difference is doubtful.

Well after successfully repairing my light tunnel a year later I started getting the "lamp light". So I bought a new bulb...and alas it wasn't the bulb. Sigh. Had it looked at by a tech...and it looks like my mainboard fried. So if anyone wants a spare Optoma bulb carrier with a new bulb (along with the original bulb the tech said was fine) I just put them up on eBay.

Cheers,

Steve