Bud,

I was wondering how you like the combination of Ascend 340s for LCR and the Sonance Symphony's for surrounds? I've been looking at the Ascends and was initially thinking the 340s for LCR and (4) of their 170s for surrounds, but my particular problem was mounting the surrounds on the surface won't work in my theater. I have a room similar in size to yours and started to look and in-walls for the side surrounds (maybe in a column) and in-ceilings for the rear surrounds.

I was hoping not to have to make any holes in the ceiling for this project but I guess I could build MDF boxes and seal them the best I can for the rears.

matching speaker characteristics is always a challenge when mixing brands so I'd be curious to get your feedback on Ascends with the Sonances.

BTW, what sub are you using? As you know Ascend sells the HSU subs but I'm not sure what they are like since I've never auditioned one.

thanks.

Billmac

Craig,

Thanks. The next hold up is going to be GOM and flooring decisions, so yeah, I can taste it.

I plan on leaving it open and covering with fabric only, no MDF, at least at this point. I think if I had the room and were able to separate the proscenium from the screen wall, I might have gone that way. At this point, not sure its required, unless there is something I don't know.

Bud

Craig,

Thanks. The next hold up is going to be GOM and flooring decisions, so yeah, I can taste it.

I plan on leaving it open and covering with fabric only, no MDF, at least at this point. I think if I had the room and were able to separate the proscenium from the screen wall, I might have gone that way. At this point, not sure its required, unless there is something I don't know.

Bud

I would just cover the proscenium with GOM.
I basically framed my proscenium with 2x4's and then covered it with fabric.
One thing I noticed with this type of construction is the fact that I can really FEEL the bass. I have the SVS Ultra/2. If I had framed the proscenium, then finished it with MDF and then treated it, and buried the sub behind all of that MDF I don't think bass would feel near as powerful.

If you have not yet decided, my vote is to cover the proscenium with GOM only.

Craig

Bud,

I was wondering how you like the combination of Ascend 340s for LCR and the Sonance Symphony's for surrounds? I've been looking at the Ascends and was initially thinking the 340s for LCR and (4) of their 170s for surrounds, but my particular problem was mounting the surrounds on the surface won't work in my theater. I have a room similar in size to yours and started to look and in-walls for the side surrounds (maybe in a column) and in-ceilings for the rear surrounds.

I was hoping not to have to make any holes in the ceiling for this project but I guess I could build MDF boxes and seal them the best I can for the rears.

matching speaker characteristics is always a challenge when mixing brands so I'd be curious to get your feedback on Ascends with the Sonances.

BTW, what sub are you using? As you know Ascend sells the HSU subs but I'm not sure what they are like since I've never auditioned one.

thanks.

Billmac


Bill,

Loving the speaker setup. I have not had any issues with the Sonance in-ceilings. When researching, I actually asked over on the Ascend site and the Ascend folks that this particular model (Symphony S622TR) would match. You can buy new install boxes for them as well, but you might have to contact an authorized dealer.

On the sub, I ended up going with the Hsu VTF-2 MK2. It's great, can really shake the room and is a great bang for the buck. Highly recommended. A great bang for your buck.

Bud

If you have not yet decided, my vote is to cover the proscenium with GOM only.

Craig

That's definately the way I was leaning until I saw your post about the MDF, then I got nervous! :eek:

I'll probably order the black GOM soon and get at least that done until until I figure out the other stuff.

Bud

Bud, I'm with you on leaving the proscenium open. Mine is built similar to yours. All open studs, no MDF and getting close to GOM time.

My Reasons:

Save money and easier to tame acoustics. Less MDF needed and less Linacoustic. If you have all those reflective areas of MDF then they will need to be treated (both sides). This adds to too many variables for me. This way I just treat it like a big open room without all the added reflective MDF surfaces to worry about.

Rob

I have a hybrid front wall. The center section, where the screen is is not covered with MDF. The two wing walls for the speakers are covered with MDF.

A few week ago a rattle developed on the right side when loud base (LFE) section played. I had to pull off all the GOM and add wood screws every two inches. For now the problem is gone. I tested it whit the same DVD.

So my vote is to skip the MDF, but make sure you paint the studs so you do not see them through the GOM.

Rob,

I agree and I think this is the way to go. Besides, I really didn't plan for MDF, so I'd have to make changes to accommodate it and at least look correct.

Greg,

Definitely will paint. I will hopefully have that done in the next week or so.

Bud

Bud,

Looks like its all working out pretty well. Can you post an updated schematic of your final screen wall design with dimensions for reference.

Mike,

This what you're looking for? Let me know if you have any questions.

http://images12.fotki.com/v253/photos/6/649633/2875265/topstagedim-vi.jpg

Bud

I spent most of yesterday working in the HT room.

First thing I did was stuff my cove with insulation. I was going to use a piece of 3/4 plywood I had and cut 6 inch widths to cap off the top, then thought that was nuts, so I'm going to return the ply and buy 1x6s. They'll be a little narrow, but will work. I finished up the proscenium on the left side. Here's the last shot I'll take before I paint the lumber black.
http://images16.fotki.com/v270/photos/6/649633/2875265/100_0238-vi.jpg

I spent some time putting up furring strips around the doors, floor and building my boxes around the switches, outlets and return. I also decided instead of going vertical with the GOM to go horizontal, but I don't want a chair rail. I ripped some 5/4 lumber in half to give me something to staple the material to, then beveled it at all 45 degrees on thee table saw. I'll put the two bevels together to give me a nice V groove and a finished look horizontally around the room. I used liquid nails, and brads to hold it in place, then went around with a decking screws to secure it. Shot of the bottom half of the V groove:
http://images15.fotki.com/v264/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0244-vi.jpg

With the help of my father-in-law, we put up the bottom furring strips around the whole room, then installed the Linacoustic below. The grove will be at 40" around the room, except for the riser, which is at about 32". The pieces of Linacoustic that we removed lengthwise I installed above where the second board will be installed. I left myself enough room for two pieces of GOM and the width of the top furring strip. I used 3M spray adhesive to put attach the Linacoustic to the drywall and used the nails so it doesn't sag over time. The GOM will hold it in place anyway, so its probably overkill. Here are a few shots of the Linacoustic around the room:
http://images15.fotki.com/v269/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0239-vi.jpg
http://images16.fotki.com/v270/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0241-vi.jpg
http://images15.fotki.com/v265/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0242-vi.jpg


Still need to do the furring strips on the corners for the crown as well as frame out my cans and speakers on the ceiling. Once I get that down, I can install the Linacoustic around the soffit. I may not have enough though!

Bud

Bud,

Does this mean adults in the back, kids on the floor for some Impromptu movie watching? Should have never hooked up that projector :D I haven't even bought mine yet. I'm trying to wait until the last possible second to make the purchase :rolleyes:

http://images15.fotki.com/v265/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0242-vi.jpg

Steve

Steve,

That's pretty much it, although it hasn't really slowed me down any. Color choice and rug will be the thing that keeps me at bay.

Bud

Those chairs may help explain why the projector being hooked up has not slowed progress. Now if Bud had put in the theater seating, then progress may have slowed quite a bit. Lucky for us thread followers that Bud has a good work ethic (even more lucky for his family and friends who will get to enjoy the fruits of his labor soon.)

Looking great Bud, I think your screen wall solution is going to be much more interesting visually than a flat wall would have been, or two little wing walls.

Later,
Brian

I'm jealous!
Your moving at the speed of light. Looking Awesome!

Ruben

I'm trying to wait until the last possible second to make the purchase :rolleyes:

Steve

That's what I did. The way projector prices are dropping nowadays, your better Off waiting to your room gets finished. I was lucky enough to catch the PJ I wanted on eBay for a huge discount. The PJ is still going for $1k more than what I paid for it.

Ruben

Thanks for the measurements Bud. Looks like its really taking shape!

So are those seats a new collection from Berkline?

Bud,
Looking good man!
The conventional wisdom seems to be not to get the pj until the theater is done but to my thinking,
how do you know exactly how to build the screenwall until you've mounted\aimed the projector and bought the screen?

To me it seems that you'd have to have both in order be able to figure out the best way to mount the frame to the
screenwall and where to frame-in the opening for the screen.

Bud:

What is the screen width to front row ratio now with the bigger screen?

Bil

Hey Bud,

Looking great so far, you made a lot of progress the last few days.

I am just curious how your room sounds so far with all the Linacoustic up? I realize you still need to install carpet, seats etc. I am just concerned that once you have everything loaded into the room you may find it a little too dead when you're finished. I am no expert but that looks like alot of Linacoustic going in there.

In my first room I did Linacoustic on the lower 3' of the walls and batting on the upper. I also had wood columns untreated in the room to break it up a bit and it sounded great although it was a little too dead. It was a bit weak in the high end and didn't sound as good as it could have with music.

This time around I will be tuning the room and I expect that even in a larger room I will use less Linacoustic but place it a little more strategically.

Just my opinion and I'm sure it will sound great either way. Maybe one of the local acoustics experts will shoot me down but that is my experience (I'm no expert). Better to have it a little to dead than an echo chamber though. ;)

By the way it starts to sound a little eery in there with all that Linacoustic up at night doesn't it? :eek:

Rob

So are those seats a new collection from Berkline?

ROFLMAO!!! Those are the new 79 series.

This time around I will be tuning the room and I expect that even in a larger room I will use less Linacoustic but place it a little more strategically.
Rob

That's what we did, But instead of using LinAcoustic all over the room like everyone pretty much does here, we did 2" Cotton and 1" & 2" 703 strategically placed at the Reflection points. Also some of It got paper faced and others remained open faced. We also treated the reflection points on the ceiling, which gets highly overlooked around here. We used 3.5" Cotton for the front Wall and 6" Cotton Triangles Stacked in the Front corners to absorb Bass.

I think it is worth the few extra bucks to hire a consultant like BPape that knows what he's doing to predetermine speaker and treatment placement. Allot of guys have great systems here but their room is not treated properly. It's that extra security of knowing that all your hard work will pay off acoustically and aesthetically IMO.

Ruben

Those chairs may help explain why the projector being hooked up has not slowed progress. Now if Bud had put in the theater seating, then progress may have slowed quite a bit. Lucky for us thread followers that Bud has a good work ethic (even more lucky for his family and friends who will get to enjoy the fruits of his labor soon.)

Looking great Bud, I think your screen wall solution is going to be much more interesting visually than a flat wall would have been, or two little wing walls.

Later,
Brian

Brian,

Thanks, the screen wall is definitely a little different than most. I'm happy with the result. The "real" berks will be the last thing I get, thats for sure. You need to give folks a teaser to keep their spirits up and to show that there is an end in site. Another argument for getting the projector up a little earlier.

Bud

So are those seats a new collection from Berkline?

Its the outdoor signature collection, waterproof power recliners and cedar match. No damn cup holders though!

Bud

Bud,
Looking good man!
The conventional wisdom seems to be not to get the pj until the theater is done but to my thinking,
how do you know exactly how to build the screenwall until you've mounted\aimed the projector and bought the screen?

To me it seems that you'd have to have both in order be able to figure out the best way to mount the frame to the screenwall and where to frame-in the opening for the screen.

I don't like to run with the herd. I absolutely agree that you need to buy and mount it to get at least confirmation that where you'll mount it will work. In my case, I struggled with placement until decided on the AE900. Placement for the Mits would have been completely different. Now, I understand you could go have gone solely on published specs and sure that would have worked. But would you want get to the very end (in my case GOM under the soffit, projector box) and find out the placement doesn't work?

The argument that "once its up you never finish" is flawed!

Bud

That's what I did. The way projector prices are dropping nowadays, your better Off waiting to your room gets finished. I was lucky enough to catch the PJ I wanted on eBay for a huge discount. The PJ is still going for $1k more than what I paid for it.

Ruben

I agree to that to an extent due to price drops, see the above post. I think though when you're close enough out, you need to get it. Sure, you might save a 100.00 bucks if you wait a month or two (depending on what time of the year you plan on purchasing), but at least its piece of mind. I also waited until after CEDIA since rumor had it the new Panasonic model was coming out. Glad I did. I'd do the same if it was August.

Bud

Bud:

What is the screen width to front row ratio now with the bigger screen?

Bil

Isn't the ratio concerned with diagonal and not actual width? Either way its a guideline. The front row is at about 11 feet, so if you use 132/104 its only 1.27:1. If you're correct on screen width, its 132/90 which is 1:46:1. I've been sitting in the "new Berks", but have occasionally moved forward to just get a different perspective and am still happy with the new screen size.

Bud

Hey Bud,
I am just curious how your room sounds so far with all the Linacoustic up? I realize you still need to install carpet, seats etc. I am just concerned that once you have everything loaded into the room you may find it a little too dead when you're finished. I am no expert but that looks like alot of Linacoustic going in there.
Actually, its sounds great to my untrained ear. First thing I noticed was vocals from the center channel, much cleaner than before. I guess the reflections have been cut down quite a bit. I'm not an audio person. My father-in-law said it made a huge difference. They had "The Patriot" on HD the other day and he came in to watch it.

I actually went by the typical installations I've read here. The whole front wall and three feet out, 48 inches on the sides and the back wall (bumped up because of the riser). It actually may look like more since I broke it up to accommodate the seam in the GOM. Still need to do the soffits though.


Just my opinion and I'm sure it will sound great either way. Maybe one of the local acoustics experts will shoot me down but that is my experience (I'm no expert). Better to have it a little to dead than an echo chamber though.

As you and Sandman suggested, it may be wise to have an expert chime in, especially while the GOM is down, huh? Another argument for setting the equipment up before you're finished.

Bud

Bud,

What is the final distance of the location of your projector to the screen?

Billmac

Bud,

What is the final distance of the location of your projector to the screen?

Billmac


And what is the distance from the screen that pixelation is no longer visible? Of course, that assumes there is some pixelation close up. :)

(You may not remember...I was planning on the ae700 a while back...But in my mind, I've already upgraded. :D )

Bud,

What is the final distance of the location of your projector to the screen?

Billmac

It's just over 13 feet.

Bud

And what is the distance from the screen that pixelation is no longer visible? Of course, that assumes there is some pixelation close up. :)

(You may not remember...I was planning on the ae700 a while back...But in my mind, I've already upgraded. :D )

I see screen door (when looking for it) at about 4 feet or less. I pointed it out to my father-in-law the other day. I described what it was then let him try and find it, I had to point it out. Maybe I didn't describe it well and he didn't know what he was looking for, but we were pretty close when we saw it. I backed off from there to see how far I could still see it from and as I recall, it was about 4 feet. Your actual results may vary. :p I haven't specifically looked for pixelation, but sure I would have noticed it if it had been a problem.

Bud

Bud, your Theater is really looking nice.

William

Hey Bud,

Very nice progress!!! I can't wait to build my stage and screen wall. Should be another week or two as I still have the dreaded task of tape and mud over drywall. I'll see if I can lure my friends with promises of Newcastle and Killians :p That would work for me. What is your overall impressions of the Panny now that it's up and you have your screen??? I may order it today now that they are having their "Winter Sports" promo.

Sportrac,

Thanks. It's getting there...

Bud

Jon,

Thanks. If beer doesn't work, throw in a pizza. Just make sure its after the work gets done. Tape and mud aren't bad, just be patient. Less mud, more coats is better than the other way around.

On the AE900. It's great. HDTV is just remarkable. DVDs are sweet as well. Money well spent. The Carada screen adds some brightness as well.

Bud

Jon,

Thanks. If beer doesn't work, throw in a pizza. Just make sure its after the work gets done. Tape and mud aren't bad, just be patient. Less mud, more coats is better than the other way around.

On the AE900. It's great. HDTV is just remarkable. DVDs are sweet as well. Money well spent. The Carada screen adds some brightness as well.

Bud

Glad to hear it!! I know with all the effort you've put into that room you wouldn't settle on an average projector. I'm ordering it this week for sure. I just hate to have it and not be able to use it, but I guess I can live with that. I'll take your advise on the mud. I'm doing a Goo screen which I've heard great things. Keep up the good work man.

Jon

Mick Jagger I'm not.

Had a couple of hours yesterday so I pulled off the screen/speakers and painted the screen wall. After putting everything back together and firing the projector up, all you can see now is the screen (except for the white outlets and RG6). When the GOM goes up, it should be completely hidden. You can't even see the speakers in this shot.

http://images15.fotki.com/v266/photos/6/649633/2875265/100_0249-vi.jpg

Bud

As you and Sandman suggested, it may be wise to have an expert chime in, especially while the GOM is down, huh? Another argument for setting the equipment up before you're finished.
Bud

Email or PM BPape. He can set up the whole room for you in no time and tell you where and where not to put treatments based on your speaker placement. He does a bunch of cool graphs showing reflections based on your speaker Specs, room size, Etc. I really think its going to be worth it for You, especially if you want to get the best sound those speakers provide.

Ruben

Bud..

That screen wall looks DY-NO-MITE!!

Looks like finishing touches left!!!


Sean

Bud,
You have the same problem I have, cant hold a camera perfectly straight. I have even tried tripods and what I see in the viewfinder looks good and the final pics of screens and such always make it look like I build more crooked than I really do.

Maybe our one leg is shorter than the other

Bud,
You have the same problem I have, cant hold a camera perfectly straight. I have even tried tripods and what I see in the viewfinder looks good and the final pics of screens and such always make it look like I build more crooked than I really do.

Maybe our one leg is shorter than the other

I had the same problem, with the tripod up against the wall and the low lighting it is hard to get a good level shot. So I got out my torpedo level and made sure the camera was level. Now most of my shots a pretty level.

Bud..

That screen wall looks DY-NO-MITE!!

Looks like finishing touches left!!!


Sean

Thanks, Sean. You've been watching JJ Walker and Good Times in your HT again, haven't you?

Bud

Maybe our one leg is shorter than the other

Actually, one of my ears is bigger than the other, so it makes my head tilt a little....

Bud

Greg,

Love the tripod idea. I could just clamp a torpedo level onto the bottom of the camera. Nah.

Bud

I ordered paint grade trim for the basement this morning (minus the HT and concession rooms, which I'll get later and get stain grade) through my neighbor. He said he'd have it here today, although not sure I'd be able to do anything for a few days anyway. I calculated that I needed about 450 feet of crown and 150 feet of base molding. This includes an extra 10%. Not looking forward to seeing this bill...

Bud

Bud,

But just think how purdy it's going to be! :)

Bud,

Did you get my PM?

Bryan

Actually, once of my ears is bigger than the other, so it makes my head tilt a little....

Bud


LOL!!!

Bryan,

I did, but ran into to some work related things. I'll respond to you shortly. Thanks!

Bud

No problem Bud - just verifying. Whenever you get time.

Bryan

Bryan,

Just replied! Check your PM.

Bud

Well, my father-in-law and I just carried all the base and crown molding down to the basement. Talk about quick delivery. At least I know what I'll be doing this weekend.... Watching movies and the Superbowl!

.
.
.
.
.
.
I just threw that in there for you followers of the "He Who Hang Projector, Never Get Off Buttocks" fortune cookie believers! :D

Bud

Bud,

But just think how purdy it's going to be! :)

Assuming I don't get frustrated hanging crown and burn it all, yes, it'll be pretty. ;)

Bud

so that s what you call it as I read this on the projector in the unfinished theater. At least now I can tell my Doc what it is. :D

in the past i would just tell him i don't why i can't get anything done, I just can't get anything done, what is my problem! :eek:

Larry,

Must have just been practice for the day you started your build. We'll need to start a support group called "Projector Hangers Anonymous". We can meet on Thursday nights, put our chairs in a circle and talk about the movies and sporting events watched that have held up our progress!

Bud

Assuming I don't get frustrated hanging crown and burn it all, yes, it'll be pretty. ;)

Bud

Oh man can I relate to this.

Larry,

Must have just been practice for the day you started your build. We'll need to start a support group called "Projector Hangers Anonymous". We can meet on Thursday nights, put our chairs in a circle and talk about the movies and sporting events watched that have held up our progress!

Bud
LOL :D

Got most of my base molding up today in the non-HT areas, except the bathroom. Went down during lunch and it took no time at all. Need to tile and get the vanity in. Tile's been pushed out some, although all the valves are done for the supplies. I'm hoping to start the crown on Saturday.

Bud

Bud,

Any thoughts of adding a second HSU sub on the other side of the stage?

Just Curious as I look at your config, mine may be similar but I was thinking two subs.

Billmac

Bill,

Had some thoughts and its wired for it, but so far I don't think I need it. The sub really puts out. I'd advise starting wiring multiple locations and adding it if you think one won't cut it. Are you looking at the Hsu VTF-2 or VTF-3? I think if I had downsized (hate that word for obvious reasons) to the Hsu STF-1 due to sizing limitations, I probably would have gone with two, again, if required.

Bud

I was initially looking at the VTF-3 but the VTF-2 looks pretty capable for the size room I have. I guess you got me thinking that the VTF-2 was enough since our rooms are about the same size.

Bill,

I'm no audio expert. Both have great reviews. I went by the system advisor on the Ascend site (http://www.ascendacoustics.com/pages/purchase/advisor.mv#bottom) from a volume perspective for the sub. Here is what they recommend:
STF-1: For small rooms < 2000 cu ft. very compact size
STF-2: For medium sized rooms < 3000 cu ft.
VTF-2: Medium sized rooms, enhanced performance
STF-3: Large rooms > 3000 cu ft.
VTF-3: Top of the line, best performance larger rooms

If I calculate my volume based on a rounded 12x19x9, that gives me 2052 cubic feet. I interpreted the info above as a "medium" sized room, although a very small "medium" room. I didn't see any reference to volume on the Hsu site.

The VTF-3 goes down to 20 Hz. The VTF-2 goes to 25 Hz. 5 Hz won't matter to me and I'd hate to lug the VTF-3 downstairs or pay for the extra 200.00 and extra shipping for that matter since the VTF-3 weighs 80 lbs and the VTF-2 weighs 57 lbs. That's me though!

Bud

Installed the theater room door today. Didn't plan on it, but figured in order to get the rest of the base molding up outside the theater room, I needed to install the door. Ran to Big Orange today and got extra shims and more 5/4 for around the ceiling for the crown. I plan on installing that tomorrow and may put the two remaining doors on. I also need to take a road trip up to the moulding place and get my stain grade casing, base and crown. I just need to get some casing tomorrow to finish up the door. I'll have to take the door off before I paint AND stain that casing while on the wall. A small trade off for getting the other piece done. Actually, I may just put the casing up temporarily for some measurements for the base, then take it down.

Some pictures tomorrow.

Bud

Bud,

Did you take the last few days off to work on the HT? Sounds like you did. I'm talking off tomorrow to do the same thing :)

Steve,

Nope. My father-in-law is here and is extremely handy. I set the direction and he runs with stuff. Unfortunately he leaves either Sunday or Monday. I spent an hour with him at 8:00 AM and ran to HD during lunch. I also have the benefit of working at home. I'm currently on a weekly call with some folks from Australia! I'm also logged on around 6:30 working. Sometimes I can do small things here or there as long as I'm not ont he phone.

Bud

Steve,

Nope. My father-in-law is here and is extremely handy.

Bud
My Dad lives in town and helps me out from time to time. I think he's enjoying his "retirement" time too much. I know he will be one of the 1st to watch a movie in my HT, though :D

My job is relatively flexible also -- but I work in an office 30 minutes from the house. It must be hard to work on the phone when you know there is more to do on the HT 50 steps away!!

One solid pine door installed for the theater entrance. Outside shot. No casing obviously.
http://images16.fotki.com/v270/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0250-vi.jpg

Inside shot. Still need to extend the jamb by an inch. I could have sworn that when I ordered the door to have them extend the jamb the extra inch for the furring strips. I checked the paper work again and it shows 6 9/16. I'll make it work.
http://images16.fotki.com/v271/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0251-vi.jpg

Here's my invetory for stuff I've got to do. On the far left, I have furring strips along the ceiling for the crown. Next is the remaining paint grade base molding. You can see some installed on the right wall. In the middle there is the 450+ feet of paint grade crown molding. On the right is some miscellaneous stuff, including pieces of 1/4 round (HD didn't have half round) to build up my lip on my step and riser and drywall corner edges to clean up the edges of the trey prior to GOM.
http://images15.fotki.com/v269/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0252-vi.jpg

Bud

Ran up to Mouldings Unlimited (http://www.mouldingsunlimited.com/) today to get my stain grade casing. I ended up buying the crown and base molding as well. Saved me a second trip. I bought everything in yellow pine to match the doors. Excellent selection and very reasonable. It was actually cheaper (stain grade quality) than Home Depot (paint grade). It's about 18 miles from my house. Took a picture, but came out way too blurry to post.

Thanks to Mike McDaniel and Ben Harper for recommending them!

Bud

Your just trucking along Bud.
I keep coming back here worrying I'm gonna see your theater done before mine.

It seems like I spend too much time with all the little details and planning. Still no screen wall set up in my place because I'm still looking for a screen solution. Tonight I am mounting the PJ in the theater to start testing sizes and adjustments in the room to decide on a final screen aspect.

If you get done before me, hopefully you come down and help the Sandman finish up ;)

Keep up the good work!

Ruben

Ruben,

Man, I had a good chuckle just then. My build out is just a "tad" less complicated than yours! I'm down to two colors of GOM (not including the black) and have no carpet picked out. You're way ahead of me there. Your screen wall will go up in a few hours once you make a decision on ratio. I've got the rest of the basement to put crown up and prime and paint as well. Of yeah, a bathroom to tile as well. Too many side jobs! I've got trim to stain for the HT room to put up. You'll be done before me, I'm sure.

You've come too far to give in on the last few details... whatever you decide, it'll be nothing less than amazing!

Bud

Bud - - you forgot to try to bait Ruben into coming up and helping you finished up if he beats you.

Bud,

Love this thread, doing a heckuva job. Question for you on your projector choice. I just pulled the trigger on the pt-900au which appears to be what you went with. Mine shipped yesterday and I started doing a little more reading on it today. Much to my dismay, it seems to be designed such that the ideal mounting point is the lens centered vertically with the screen whereas it seems the majority of projectors typically want the lens near the top or bottom of the screen, depending on projector orientation. This means that you are using a buttload of lens shift when ceiling mounting this puppy. I can’t ascertain how much above your screen the projector sits but from looking through your pictures it certainly appears to be slightly above the screen (if you could share the numbers I’d greatly appreciate it). I assume that means you are using quite a bit of the lens shift. I read in a couple of threads that when using the lens shift to an extreme it will introduce some ‘bending’ of the bottom portion of the screen. I’m curious if your installation exhibits this behavior. Thanks in advance for any info!

Bud,
Much to my dismay, it seems to be designed such that the ideal mounting point is the lens centered vertically with the screen whereas it seems the majority of projectors typically want the lens near the top or bottom of the screen, depending on projector orientation. This means that you are using a buttload of lens shift when ceiling mounting this puppy.
If you take a look at page 21 of the AE900 manual (http://images15.fotki.com/v268/photos/6/649633/3052581/AE900manualp21-vi.jpg), in the bottom right corner of the grey box it states that the maximum picture quality is centered horizontally and vertically. If you can achieve that position, that's great, but most people can't I would think. I think you have to consider the distance to the screen, which will increase or decrease the offset and the picture postion vertically. The projector is mounted at 13 feet from the screen. One of the selling points for me with this projector with the flexibility of the mount. The projector is basically centered horizontally, I have to adjust the mount a little bit when I do the final mount. The picture is definitely adjusted down vertically, but not completely to the bottom. Someone asked this before and I actually raised the final screen position up another 4-5 inches for viewing preferences. I can’t ascertain how much above your screen the projector sits but from looking through your pictures it certainly appears to be slightly above the screen (if you could share the numbers I’d greatly appreciate it). I assume that means you are using quite a bit of the lens shift. I read in a couple of threads that when using the lens shift to an extreme it will introduce some ‘bending’ of the bottom portion of the screen. I’m curious if your installation exhibits this behavior. Thanks in advance for any info! I have not seen any bending of the screen at all. Keystoning gets introduced when the projector is tilted, but can be adjusted, although if you can avoid any tilting of the projector, you won't need to worry about it. I have not had to worry about keystoning.

Overall, I'm very happy with the quality of the picture and the setup. Hope this helps.

Bud

Thanks for the info Bud! Looks like I might not have to send it back as soon as it arrives. I'll be hanging about 13' back as well but haven't nailed down my screen height yet. Do you know roughly what the height of the projector lens is compared to the height of the top of the screen?

Hi Bud,

Although I wired for the Sanyo PLV-Z4 I have considered the Panasonic AE900. Were you considering this choice as well? Why did you eventually go with the Panasonic?

I'm considering the Panasonic because of the better picture at closer range (as I will probably build the screen out a little more than initially planned) and the better deinterlacing capabilities for standard def inputs (although I hope to keep this to a minimum).

Here's a good review of the 2 you probably have seen:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/ae900_plvz4.htm

Interested in your thoughts.

Dave

Thanks for the info Bud! Looks like I might not have to send it back as soon as it arrives. I'll be hanging about 13' back as well but haven't nailed down my screen height yet. Do you know roughly what the height of the projector lens is compared to the height of the top of the screen?

The height to the top of the projector mounted is about 3 inches with this new mount. The top of the viewining area of the screen is about 13 inches.

Bud

Hi Bud,

Although I wired for the Sanyo PLV-Z4 I have considered the Panasonic AE900. Were you considering this choice as well? Why did you eventually go with the Panasonic?

I'm considering the Panasonic because of the better picture at closer range (as I will probably build the screen out a little more than initially planned) and the better deinterlacing capabilities for standard def inputs (although I hope to keep this to a minimum).

Here's a good review of the 2 you probably have seen:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/ae900_plvz4.htm

Interested in your thoughts.

Dave

Hey Dave,

Been watching your thread!

I was looking at the Z4 and thes Mits 3000 as well. I eventually discounted the Mits and was leaning on the Z4 for some time. On reason I discounted the AE900 initially was because of the lamp life of the AE700. I've read all the reviews and comparisons. The Z4 is probably a little sharper, but needs more calibration out of the box (so I've read). The AE900 comes out of the box looking much better, but with some work the Z4 is just as nice or some would say better. I did not compare the two side by side, but after reading another comparison somewhere, it convinced me that the AE900 would be a better fit for me personally. I'll see if I can find the article somewhere. Regardless, I'm happy with it. I'm sure if I went the Z4 route, it would have worked out fine as well.

Bud

Hi Bud,

Good thoughts. Hopefully I'll have to make that decision in the next month. Probably deserves some more research.

Keep up the good work, I regularly watch your thread and I'm getting some inspiration especially around your proscenium and acoustical treatments. I'm in a little over my head but treading water at this point.

Thanks,

Dave

Dave,

If you go with the AE900, keep an eye on the rebate, it's up to 400.00 plus the Blockbuster stuff. Take advantage while you can!

Bud

Here's an update and a few photos. I didn't get to the crown this weekend, I didn't have any of my sidekicks available to hold up the crown. Working on that for this week, may take a day or two off to do some work.

I did do a few things though. I worked on the top of my cove on Saturday. I used 1x6s instead of ripping plywood. Much easier. There were two things I wanted to point out here, neither of which I have in the picture below. First, I left a section of 1x6 unattached so I could get to the IR receiver mounted in the cove. Second, I used 2" brads to put the boards in place. I probably should have done this a while ago because it was tight getting a brad nailer in there to secure it. I had to angle the brads and I had to go back later with a small hammer and nail the heads in flush. Also, I left a few marks/indents on the ceiling with the nail gun, so I'll need to touch that up. Looks like my PC staple gun I bought off ebay will work a little better for the GOM when I get to that. I'd hate to have to touch up the ceiling after the GOMs up. I still need to buy the tracks for the rope light, will do that in the near future.
http://images15.fotki.com/v269/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0359-vi.jpg

I also worked the lip of the stage. I wanted to get that done a while back to get it out of the way, but never got to it. Here is a shot of the stage now. I actually used a 3/4" x 1 1/2" spacer and two quarter rounds to build it out. I used 2" brads and construction adhesive to secure it. It's enough to create the lip for the rug when its installed. For the rounded portion, I used that plastic moulding in both a 3/4" width and plastic moulding quarters rounds.
http://images15.fotki.com/v268/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0357-vi.jpg

For my five 4" cans that are in the soffit, I had to build frames from two 1/2" pieces of plywood to staple the GOM onto. Ten squares with ten holes. Fun stuff. These are attached via brads and construction adhesive above the stage.
http://images16.fotki.com/v271/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0360-vi.jpg

Sunday morning I installed some casing on the outside of the HT room door so I could finish up the base molding. Probably should have waited and stained the casing prior to installing, but wanted to finished that base molding. I also installed the base molding in the closet next to the bar.
http://images16.fotki.com/v272/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0354-vi.jpg

Here's what I'm planning on trimming out the lip of my riser with. It's got a bullnosed edge and I'll attached it with construction adhesive and finishing nails after I stain it. Hard to see in the picture, but it's about 3 1/2 inches wide and the rug/pad should go right up the the edge. I got this idea from BuffBakerGA and it adds a nice touch. Some good shots of his beautiful work in the "Show your Before and After pics..." thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6913163&&#post6913163).
http://images16.fotki.com/v272/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0361-vi.jpg

You guys have seen these before, but here is the signage on the way down to the HT room and basement.
http://images15.fotki.com/v269/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0355-vi.jpg

Bud

Looking good Bud.

Can't wait to see how the stain looks on that Pine door :)

Whoo Hoo, Bud. Keep it up, you are in the home stretch now! If I'm on travel your way, I'll help you hang some crown. [Upsidedownbackwardscompoundmitre]

Thanks guys!

Also, just a FYI, I'm working with Bryan (bpape) on some analysis work to finalize some of the treatments in the room. I'll probably make some modifications to the amount of Linacoustic and its placement and may be adding some other type of treatments. Stay tuned.

Bud

Excellent thread Bud. I've lurked on this board for a couple of years and I think this thread is one of the most helpful I've ever read. Do you have a dimensioned plan of your entire basement buildout?

Excellent thread Bud. I've lurked on this board for a couple of years and I think this thread is one of the most helpful I've ever read. Do you have a dimensioned plan of your entire basement buildout?

Well, thank you. I'm glad its been beneficial.

I have a layout of the basement, but not complete with dimensions. I have recently taken some measurements though to order my trim, so I can transpose those numbers onto the layout. I'll work on that this week.

Bud

Well, thank you. I'm glad its been beneficial.

I have a layout of the basement, but not complete with dimensions. I have recently taken some measurements though to order my trim, so I can transpose those numbers onto the layout. I'll work on that this week.

Bud

Hey Bud, You may need to return your screen. I found a material you can use and put your speakers behind the Screen and save you a fortune. Plus you can do a wider screen now if you wanted too.

Check my thread out.

Ruben

Hey Ruben,

Saw your screen material last night in your thread. Looks great. I'm not nearly in as much as you on the screen, but it is a nice alternative to think about. Based on how you got it, are you planning on becomming a reseller of the material now???

Bud

Hey Ruben,

Saw your screen material last night in your thread. Looks great. I'm not nearly in as much as you on the screen, but it is a nice alternative to think about. Based on how you got it, are you planning on becomming a reseller of the material now???

Bud

Nah, I posted all the info everyone needs to buy it themselves.

Its not a great lower cost alternative to the leading screen companies weaved screens, it's a better performing material in general.

Ruben

Bud,

You're still making good progress my man! Instead of typing, I should be working on mine! :o Two week long trips and playing mom and dad this week makes it tough.

Quick question about the screen wall framing, did you just use normal spray paint to paint it black? If I missed that, sorry.

BTW, I just order 100 RSIC clips from bpape and he told me he's helping you out on the treatments. I'm very interested in that so please share what you can. I've also chatted with him about doing the same for me if I ever get there.

Jerrod,

Get those SEs fired up yet? Can surely relate to the "distractions". Baseball season is right around the corner again, so my Saturdays will have other priorities. Hey, that's what its all about, right?

I did use regular spray paint, something flat from HD. You could apply by brush, but not worth the time. By the time you get up the GOM, it won't make any difference.

Talked to Bryan today, we're still working on a few things to manage the lower frequencies. I'm no acoustical engineer, so for those folks that are doing builds who want to ensure their rooms are treated correctly, you should consult with someone. Bryan and I are discussing some changes that'll help on top of the Linacoustic. There are a few things that I might have done differently (like the soffits as bass traps) as well if I had cobtacted someone like Bryan early on during the planning/design/framing stage. I'll post the changes once we've figured out the final details.

Bud

I have the front 3 SE's sitting on my entertainment center. Hooked those up right away. Unfortunately I can't easily hook up the rest because of the layout of the room. Have to wait for the HT.

I think they sound phenominal! It's funny though, the sounded great, but honestly I wasn't super impresed with the low end when driving them hard with music. Then, genious me notices that the Bass knob on my receiver is turned down (darn kids). Once I fixed that, WOW! I'm amazed such big, loud, quality sound comes out of a small box like that!

Jerrod,

Agreed, they were definately worth the wait. I'm hearing they're backordered a few weeks now. I guess they've become pretty popular!

Bud

Bud,

I'm about to start re-framing my new "front" wall and was looking at yours as a guide. I think I'm going to build a DIY DaLite screen but wanted to think ahead if I ever upgraded to a pre-made screen like your Carada or even a Stewart.

I looked at the Carada website and how the screen attached to the wall but had another question. Do both horizontal hanging bars go from the extreme left edge of the frame all the way to the extreme right edge? Or, are they set in an inch or so from the edges?

http://images16.fotki.com/v273/photos/6/649633/2875265/100_0228-vi.jpg

I also noticed you did a double stud surround around the screen. Was that done so you could attach the frame to 1 stud and the GOM to the other? My plan was to put the black Commando cloth up 1st (around the parameter), then place the screen on top of that. That would allow the screen to cover up any staples, etc and give a really clean look.

Steve,

Do both horizontal hanging bars go from the extreme left edge of the frame all the way to the extreme right edge? Or, are they set in an inch or so from the edges?
The top hanger is actually only 48 inches long and eight inches on the bottom and I haven't installed the bottom one yet and not sure I will. They say in the install guide that they'll vary in length, depending on the size of the screen. I may not install the bottom one because it allows me easy access to everything. Now, people may say it make shake or rattle because of the speakers and sub, but with all that sand and mass, it's not going anywhere. I haven't seen it move yet. Here is the assembly instructions (http://www.carada.com/downloads/Criterion%20Series%20Instructions.pdf). Check out "step 2" first page.

I also noticed you did a double stud surround around the screen. Was that done so you could attach the frame to 1 stud and the GOM to the other?
When I built the wall, I knew I would have a large opening. I was trying to figure out the best way to leave the opening without it sagging and at the same time I was trying to figure out my sub situation, so the framing sort of evolved from a prototype and I left it. The horizontal pieces are 96 inches, I didn't even cut them. I was concerned about screen height and how high I had to make it to accommodate the sub height and still have the brackets where they needed to be. I doubled up the sides initially figuring that would be pretty much the main support that would hold wall up. If you look in the original screen wall shot below, its the yellow boxed area. I doubled the horizontal piece to give me rigidity so it wouldn't sag. I had to modify the supports to accommodate the sub later and added the cripples to support it. I should have framed it out like a header for a door, but sort of ran with it. You'll notice in the picture you referenced, that support has been modified significantly.

http://images16.fotki.com/v278/photos/6/649633/2875265/OrigScreenwall-vi.jpg
My plan was to put the black Commando cloth up 1st (around the parameter), then place the screen on top of that. That would allow the screen to cover up any staples, etc and give a really clean look.
I think you only need commando cloth is you expect any reflection off the screen back towards the front of the screen wall. You can get away with GOM otherwise. Larry Chanin (http://mysite.verizon.net/res8ycu4/id4.html) did this to prevent the the light from showing through the GOM due to reflections. He built a shadow box to house the screen, so some of the framing was in front of the screen. I actually bought commando cloth as well since I thought I'd end up with a shadow box to hide the sub, but don't plan on using it. I think I have 15 yards of it (not sure of the width), you can have it if you want it. You can pay for the shipping though!

Hope this helps .... and I was serious about the commando cloth!

Bud

Bud, you have PM.

Bud,

I just emailed you the results of the changes we discussed.

Steve and Bryan,

Got them both and replied. Taking to day off today to do some work in the basement, so I won't be online for most of the day. Will check back this evening.

Bud

i thought your cpu was attached to your hip and the key board was on your wrist. Bud your work ethic is like the Borg :D

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/4610/borg1zl.gif (http://imageshack.us)

Larry,

I wish it were that easy! I'd be down there full time!

Bud

Worked on crown today for about 5 hours. I finished the bottom of the stairs and most of the game room. Tomorrow my Dad and I will finish the rest of the game room and the bathroom. My son's got baseball practice tomorrow, so hopefully I'll get all the non-HT room crown done. After that, some mud touch up and caulking. Pictures tomorrow.

I quit at about 3:00 PM because a new Circuit City opened nearby today, so I picked up the kids and we went and bought some new DVDs. They're on sale (10%) off and a bunch were 9.99. I picked up Jurassic Park (all three in one) for 19.99, Mission Impossible I&2, The Patriot, Wallace and Gromit (Were Rabbit and the one with the three short films), plus some other kid stuff.

Bud

Now that your all stocked up on movies the question is which one to use for the grand opening once everything is complete.

Now that your all stocked up on movies the question is which one to use for the grand opening once everything is complete.
Well, I expect the grand opening to be still out a little ways, so I'll have some more choices to pic from. My wife would love to see the new Harry Potter movie, coming out in March and I believe Narnia is coming out in April. Who knows when I'll be done, but I'm getting there.

Bud

King Kong is April if you run a little behind, first hour is sort of a yawner but it picks up steam on Skull Island. I am sure it will give you audio system a great workout

King Kong is April if you run a little behind, first hour is sort of a yawner but it picks up steam on Skull Island. I am sure it will give you audio system a great workout

I thought King Kong was awesome, First Hour was slow like you said. Allot of people I know hated it. I can't wait to watch it in my theater. I been using the 1080 Trailer of it for the meantime.

Ruben

Mark and Ruben,

King Kong! Cool beans! (did I just say that?) I'll add it to my list. Thanks, wasn't aware.

Finished all the crown in the game room and caulked most of it. I had one damn corner that took me a while to figure it out, it was like a 45 degree "point". Ended up pretty nice if I do say myself (hence the caulk!). Bathroom tomorrow. That's maybe an hour tops. When I get off my ass tonight, I'll take some pictures. Time for a beer.

Bud

I thought King Kong was awesome, First Hour was slow like you said. Allot of people I know hated it. I can't wait to watch it in my theater. I been using the 1080 Trailer of it for the meantime.

Ruben
I liked the whole thing, son did too. Wife and daughter werent too impressed but.............

The first hour isnt for everybody but I liked the anticipation of waiting to see Kong in all his glory. The final scenes will let you know if your theater has a good picture or not judging from how much vertigo you experience.

Some of the special effects were top notch. Great popcorn flick and it will be hard to pick and choose demo scenes from this beast

Here are a few shots of crown (I wish it were a few shots of Crown, bar is not done yet!) I worked on today with my Dad. The funky angle I had to deal with was that tight corner on the right for the small light soffit. I had been dreading it since I day I dreamed it up.
http://images16.fotki.com/v281/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0362-vi.jpg

Closer shot of the right side. I had to cope it and got it pretty tight, but still caulked the crap out of it!
http://images16.fotki.com/v271/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0363-vi.jpg

Inside of the bar, a few 135 degree cuts:
http://images16.fotki.com/v282/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0364-vi.jpg

Another angle, exciting stuff, huh?
http://images16.fotki.com/v270/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0366-vi.jpg

Just a few pieces left for the bathroom on the right, but all the stain grade crown and base for the concession area and HT room on the left.
http://images16.fotki.com/v270/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0367-vi.jpg

Tomorrow the bathroom!

Bud

Awesome Bud!!! What a ton of work your doing there. I would slice my wrists if I had to do all those angles and cuts for The crown.

So I guess you are painting it all the Same color as the walls? If not, that would be a ton of masking.

Keep on Trucking !!!

Ruben

Ruben,

I ordered 460 feet of crown... not including the HT room and concession area. Not bad for a day and a half. I'll prime it all (walls and trim) with a sprayer and then go back and match the other trim on the house with the sprayer, then I'll mask for the ceiling paint (glutton for punishment, I know). I have a roller attachment for the sprayer for the walls. What it comes down to is spray as much as possible without mucking it up. I tried to spray the walls in my other basement without getting the wall paint on the ceiling, what a pain in the ass. Worst part of the whole build out, the damn paint.

Maybe I'll just hire it out after I prime and spray the trim!

Bud

Excellent work Bud,
Wonderful design esthetics, I love the outstanding use of angles in just the right places.

Are you planning on painting it the same color as the wall/ceiling? Just wondering why you didn't put the crown up until after you painted..?

Edit: Doh.. Ruben beat me to the question.. I hadn't gotten to your tab in Mozilla yet.. :)

One reason I wanted to put it the crown up first was that I didn't want to install any support "system" behind it. Because the walls were just mudded, for the about 90% of the time I could tell where the studs or the joists were based on the screw heads. I used 2" brads to hold the crown. The other 10% of the time the caulk comes into play. I tell ya, I pulled a few piece down when I miscut something and had a hard time getting them off the wall when the brads were in the studs. Typically the brads stayed in the wall and pulled through the crown. If I were to paint over it, I'd have to find the studs to nail to or create a support system to hold it in place. For the stain grade stuff in the HT room and the concession area, I'll be staining before hanging.

Typically in new construction in this area, they install all the molding, prime and paint the molding right on the walls. I just walked through a new house (about three away) that finished the molding, same thing. I figured I'd try that this time. I did not want to paint all the molding by hand, since there was so much of it. The last basement I did thats exactly what I did. I painted the walls and ceiling, then hung the pre-painted molding. I just didn't have all that crown like I do now.

I have a Campbell Hausfeld power sprayer I bought when I did my last basement, paid about 500.00 for it and its painted for itself several times already.

http://www.contractorstools.com/graphics2/campbell/ps_PS240C_265x400.gif

Bud,

Excellent work. The craziest angle I've had to cut so far is when I built the new vault on the right side of the room. And, it wasn't something simple like 45deg. After a few trial and errors cuts, 38deg was the angle I needed (to match the vault on the other side of the room.)

Ain't caulk a wonderful thing :D Too bad it's a bit more challenging to use that on stain grade material.

Ain't caulk a wonderful thing :D Too bad it's a bit more challenging to use that on stain grade material.

Steve,

You said a mouthful! It's great practice though!

Bud

Bathroom crown is complete. Taking the rest of the day off!

Bud

Looking great Bud! I can sympathize on the moulding. I just finished installing about 450 feet of shadowbox. Like you I am finishing my entire basement at the same time as the theater. I think I am just a hair ahead of you on the basement and about a couple months behind you on the theater. If I get some free time later today maybe I will finally get my theater construction thread started before the room is complete.

Mike,

Thanks man! A hair? Is that a joke?!?! Are you making fun of me?!?!?! j/k : :p

I'm not far off now, although I'm still not sure on the flooring yet in the rest of the basement and I still have to tile the bathroom. At least now when I'm done caulking I can prime and paint. That's the big hump after drywall for me. The bar is probably going to wait a while until I replenish the savings account!

Bud

Bud,

I've just finished reading through your entire thread. AVS is one of the few web sites that my company does not block (someone high up must be a HT fan!) and I've read a few pages of the thread per day during down time at work over the last couple weeks. Now that I'm finally caught up, it somewhat of a let down now that I can't bang out 3 pages at a time, but I'll manage.

One thing that I'm not sure if you've discussed or maybe I missed are your plans for the decor of the HT. Do you have a theme or color scheme in mind? Going by the name of your theater are you planning on going with some sort of western theme?

Keep up the good work and thanks for providing me with something to do at work, besides actually working!


Mike

Going by the name of your theater are you planning on going with some sort of western theme?

Mike,

I may be wrong but I think Bud's house is on a street named "Blazing Ridge". A great name for a theater!

Bud,

I've just finished reading through your entire thread. AVS is one of the few web sites that my company does not block (someone high up must be a HT fan!) and I've read a few pages of the thread per day during down time at work over the last couple weeks. Now that I'm finally caught up, it somewhat of a let down now that I can't bang out 3 pages at a time, but I'll manage.

One thing that I'm not sure if you've discussed or maybe I missed are your plans for the decor of the HT. Do you have a theme or color scheme in mind? Going by the name of your theater are you planning on going with some sort of western theme?

Keep up the good work and thanks for providing me with something to do at work, besides actually working!


Mike

Mike,

LOL, no, not a western theme. Thanks for the chuckle though! Steve is correct, I think I mentioned in the very first post that the name came from the name of our street, Blazing Ridge Way. Sort of lame, but not too bad. Couldn't come up with anything else!

As for the decor, I don't really have a theme for the HT room specifically. I want the basement to have an older, sort of a "tasteful" TGI Fridays sort of feel to it, but not really a retro style and not over done or overbaked. Sort of old and nostalgic. I have a few old mounted movie posters, tin signs, license plates, B&W sports photos, an old pay phone, a working traffic light, neon light, old barber's chair and a bunch of other misc stuff. I've been buying and saving stuff for while just to get this done. This is my second finished basement in about 12 years since we moved to Atlanta. The first I finished just in time to put the house on the market, so it never was even used. This one has already seen more action!

Bud

Its looking good Bud. Now quit playing around with the bathrooms and crown and give us our HT fix :p

Ronnie

Its looking good Bud. Now quit playing around with the bathrooms and crown and give us our HT fix :p

Ronnie

Soon enough my friend, soon enough!

I believe Bryan (bpape) is done with his analysis and has made some recommendations of adding some acoustical cotton in the corners behind the screen wall and some FRK along the bottom 1.5 feet on the sidewalls. Also, he recommended removal of linacoustic on the backwall and minimal linacoustic under the soffits (only in strategic places). He also recommended putting a door into the concession area otherwise I'd have to treat for it as well. I'll have to order the door next time I got to HD. I'll order the material Bryan recommended today or tomorrow and then I'll make my acoustical modifications according. Please keep in mind that room characteristics vary and each room may/may not require different types of treatments. Bryan, please correct me if I misspoke or provide more detail as needed.

In the meantime, I'm stuck doing unexciting stuff like caulk, filling nail holes and paint. Maybe I'll get some Minwax samples to figure out that next step.

Bud

Nope. That's about right.

What we had to deal with was an imbalance in treatment. There was plenty (more than enough) mid and high frequency absorbtion in the space but almost nothing in the bottom end. In general, when doing the Linacoustic on the bottom, batting on top thing, people think that's all there is to it. What they forget is that in most of the designs that are laid out that way, there are soffits, columns, risers, etc. that are all used for bass absorbtion to balance things out in terms of smoothing the decay time curve.

Since the Linacoustic is up to above ear level, the early reflections are dealt with. Now we needed to look at controlling the bottom and balancing things out a bit. There isn't any way with current construction and limitations to use soffits for bass control. There isn't much room on the back wall - what there is is pretty much blocked by the seating.

All I did was to reduce the amount of high frequency absorbtion and boost the bass control via the thick absorbers in the front (no additional high frequency absorbtion as there was already Linacoustic there) and by using a bonded FRK facing on the bottom parts of the side walls. This will give a little extra help at 250ish Hz range and also eliminate a little of the HF absorbtion somewhere that won't get hit until after it's already likely bounced off the carpeting and pad.

We discussed also using the riser for a bass absorber but it doesn't look like that will be necessary now.

As I discussed with Bud, the thing with the door is that it offers options. You can leave it open when watching a game or having more of a party - but close it and have a more symmetric, properly sealed off space when you want to be a bit more serious about sound and just watching a movie.

Ben,

Sent you an email a few days ago, I'm sure you're tied up doing home theater installs, and haven't had time to respond. Just wanted to let you know that I put a check in the mail for you for the Carada screen. Give me a shout when you've got some time.

Bud

The bar is probably going to wait a while until I replenish the savings account!

Bud

Don't wait to long on that bar. After all that hard work you are going to need a drink. Not home theater related, but for you bar check out the fireplace mantle moulding aisle at the hardware store for some great stuff. A couple of hours with the old mitre saw and I turned my bar area from looking like a knee wall to Cheers.

Ironically I got inspired from pictures from the website of a local store called "Bars by Bud"

Mike,

Pretty funny and a nice job. Did you do the tile work as well on the floor? What about the rest of the bar, looks like you have more planned based on the counter height outlets. I had planned on doing something with that front of the bar wall rather than just paint it. I probably will paint it when I spray and just cover it later. I have some ideas on that.

I hear ya. I'm thinking now I can probably built it myself rather than use prefab cabinets, not sure at this point if I want to tackle it or not. Actually, I take that back. I'd like to definitely tackle it, but not sure if I'll have the time. I'll give it some more thought. I know Jeff Baker (BuffBakerGA) made his cabinets, not sure about the doors though although I know you can buy them premade or have custom sizes done.

Bud

Mark,

Just Googled "Bars by Bud (http://www.barsbybudmepham.com/barsbrass.html)". They've got some good pictures for ideas.

Bud

Hey Bud,

[insert Rob Snieder's voice from the Waterboy] "You can do it..."

The cabinets doors were built from scratch too. Ken's got them over at his workshop to cut and route because they ended up a little big because of the hinge style I went with. I've got a couple of them here that I could take pictures of to give you an idea. Let me know...

JB

Jeff,

Would love a picture of them. What kind of wood did you use on the doors? Cabinets are one thing obviously, since for except for the fronts, they're pretty hidden. Doors are key. If the doors look good, that's half the battle. Did you do any doors with glass?

Bud

Yep... Eventually, I'll have some glass doors with glass shelves. I'll get some better photos soon but it will be TV, open with glass shelves, glass door with glass shelves, then double solid doors (not pictured).

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/252/252396/folders/189466/1819350IMG2818.JPG

Eventually it will have base and wall cabinets behind there. Would have loved to build them myself, but at this point will probably just buy them due to the time factor. Picked up an undermount "beverage center" and a kegerator for behind the front part in the picture. Right now I am planning on doing some type of tile countertop myself.

Unfortunately (or fortunately depending on how you look at it) I didn't do the tile work on the floor myself. I was planning on doing it but a friend of a friend gave me one of his remodeling crews at cost for a week over the holidays since things got slow for him. I brought them in after I did the first coat of mud on the basement to knock out the rest of the mudding. Well they went pretty quick so I kept them busy with the tile work by the bar, in the bathroom and some by the back door. They also knocked out the crown and most of the chair rail. Needless to say after 2 years of nights and weekends the wife was very happy with the kickstart to the finishing schedule. :)

BuffBakerGA,

I would be interested in checking out those pics as well!

Wow that was quick.
You must have been posting as I was typing.

Yep... Eventually, I'll have some glass doors with glass shelves. I'll get some better photos soon but it will be TV, open with glass shelves, glass door with glass shelves, then double solid doors (not pictured).

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/252/252396/folders/189466/1819350IMG2818.JPG

Love it! Love the cabinets, the stain color and the tile work. Pretty sweet.

Bud

The doors were made out of 1x3 poplar and 1/2" plywood. We routed both sides of the poplar with a nice pattern and then we cut a groove in it for the plywood. Here a picture of one of the sink doors and a glass door...

http://216.77.188.54/coDataImages/p/Groups/252/252396/folders/189466/1819776IMG2821.JPG

Hey Jeff, thanks. Looks great. I may be tempted to do this!

Bud

That looks great Jeff! What did you use for the actual cabinet frames in terms of material and contstruction? I saw you had a pic or 2 on your sight, but it was a little hard to tell from there.

Jeff,

Yeah, I'm interested as well. Wondering if you picked it up from HD or somewhere else since I'm local.

All,

Placed my order with Bryan on the additional materials so I'll be getting back to that in the near future (sorry for the tangents Ronnie!). I also picked up some small cans of Minwax stain to figure out what color I'll be doing in the HT room. Stay tuned.

Bud

Bryan,

Question for you. I have always considered/thought about a few movie posters on the rear wall. Now that the back wall won't be treated, is there an issue acoustically in doing so? No light boxs there, probably something backed with thin MDF or another material. Not sure I'm going to do it or not, but was thinking of putting some furring strip on the wall behind the GOM for support just in case.

Thanks.

Bud

It won't react much different than plain drywall. The only reason we're not doing anything on the rear wall right now is that what you were planning was basically buried behind the seating too close to do much good.

Most likely, anything on the rear that you'll want IMO would be for bass control and that certainly could go down low. If you want to hang up some posters, I don't see that as a problem.

Bud,

Contrary to rumors, I have not been sent to Milledgeville (okay, I'm out for good behavoir).

Got your mail - thanks.

Taking a look at the bar pics. If you have cabinet doors or any other general woodworking. My brother has a cabinet shop in Canton, and I have a set of keys. I don't know how to operate all the machinery, but I can build a set of raised panel doors in less than 10 minutes (a shaper is an awesome tool).

I will be spending a few Saturdays at his shop as the warden has demanded nicely that I make her some built-in's before I start on the basement. You are more than welcome to join me and construct what you need. I have learned that woodworking is not too difficult when you have the right machinery (5 shapers, cnc router, 48" drum sander, paint booth, etc).

Ben

I have learned that woodworking is not too difficult when you have the right machinery (5 shapers, cnc router, 48" drum sander, paint booth, etc).

Ben

So true.... Its all about having the right tools. I think I have spent almost as much on good tools as I have on the basement. The one nice thing is that really good tools dont cost much more than the really crappy ones. They are easier to use and produce better results.

Bud,

Contrary to rumors, I have not been sent to Milledgeville (okay, I'm out for good behavoir).

Got your mail - thanks.

Taking a look at the bar pics. If you have cabinet doors or any other general woodworking. My brother has a cabinet shop in Canton, and I have a set of keys. I don't know how to operate all the machinery, but I can build a set of raised panel doors in less than 10 minutes (a shaper is an awesome tool).

I will be spending a few Saturdays at his shop as the warden has demanded nicely that I make her some built-in's before I start on the basement. You are more than welcome to join me and construct what you need. I have learned that woodworking is not too difficult when you have the right machinery (5 shapers, cnc router, 48" drum sander, paint booth, etc).

Ben


Glad you got the pardon, was wondering if you were in solitary.

Count me in to check it out at least and I'll be happy to give you a hand. Just let me know the details (when/where).

I remember you saying your brother was into cabinetry/woodworking. I'm really tempted to do this now, I think it would be another great project. After all I have all the design and measurements done (thanks Home Depot).

Bud

Bud - I posted this in the Panasonic Thread but have not received an answer. Since you are using the AE900 in your theater, I was wondering if you had any advice.

"I am planning to mount a Panasonic AE900 using a Chief-RPA225 mount. My first consideration was to mount the projector so that center of the lens will be even with the top of the screen. This will mean that I have to use an extension pole that is 14-inches long. Chief Manufacturing makes fixed extension poles of various lengths but none that are exactly 14 inches. The adjustable poles are just way too expensive.

With the Panasonic AE900 how close do I need to be to the top of screen to avoid keystone corrections? And secondly, can I just buy a 1-½ inch diameter pole from Home Depot and have it cut and threaded to be exact length that I need? I was just thinking the Home Depot pole would be just plain ugly."

Any suggestions?

Bud - I posted this in the Panasonic Thread but have not received an answer. Since you are using the AE900 in your theater, I was wondering if you had any advice.

"I am planning to mount a Panasonic AE900 using a Chief-RPA225 mount. My first consideration was to mount the projector so that center of the lens will be even with the top of the screen. This will mean that I have to use an extension pole that is 14-inches long. Chief Manufacturing makes fixed extension poles of various lengths but none that are exactly 14 inches. The adjustable poles are just way too expensive.

With the Panasonic AE900 how close do I need to be to the top of screen to avoid keystone corrections? And secondly, can I just buy a 1-½ inch diameter pole from Home Depot and have it cut and threaded to be exact length that I need? I was just thinking the Home Depot pole would be just plain ugly."

Any suggestions?


I was in a similar situation, Panasonic AE700 and an OmniMount PMD1. Because of a high ceiling I need about 30" drop. I don't think they even made a extension that long. The cheap solution was a length of pipe (1 1/2" I think). I threaded the end and got it powder coated to match the rest of the mount. Total cost was under $30.

Two things I did learn along the way:-

1) In this part of World (New Zealand), 1 1/2" pipe is impossible to buy anywhere. Turns out though that it is sold as "thick wall scaffold pipe".

2) If you have the option, get the pipe in aluminium, it's much, much lighter.

If I get a chance I'll post a pic tomorrow.

Darrin

Oops, forgot to mention !!!

I had my projector centered horizontally on the screen. Vertically it was level with the top the screen so I have to use the joystick almost fully down. To my eye there was no issue with keystoning.

Hey Sailor06,

You really want to look at the manual. If you haven't bought the projector, take a look at the online version, here's a link to the AE900 site where the manual is. (http://www2.panasonic.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/vModelDetail?storeId=15001&catalogId=13401&itemId=95452&cacheProgram=11002&cachePartner=7000000000000005702&surfModel=PT-AE900U-EC&catGroupId=24980&surfCategory=Home%20Cinema%20Projectors&displayTab=R) Click on the "Operating Instructions" link and look at page 11. You'll see they recommend the center of the screen both vertically and horizontally for the ideal picture (sort of crazy though) but you can shift the lens quite a bit. I can say that the lens shift is your best friend. Also, look at the "Specification Sheet" link and look at the last page.

I don't think you'll need to make any keystone adjustments if you're relatively close to the top of the screen. You only need to use keystoning if you've used the lens shift all the way up or down and still have to tile the projector. If you can get it relatively close to screen height, you should be OK and you should be able to use the lens adjustment.

On the pole, as sk8conz said, if you can match the threads, you're golden. I would just paint the pole to your liking. For the amount the pole/pipe will cost you, can't go wrong. You could even try a few different lengths to suit your needs.

Hope this helps!

Bud

I have a Chief mount for my Optoma. The Home Depot route works well. They will cut the pipe to whatever length you want and thread the ends. I also picked up a can of Rustoleum "Black Hammered Metal" spray paint and while it does not match the texture of the Chief mount, it still looks good. Some pointers though... the pipe after cutting the threads will be covered in oil, inside and out. Get some Simple Green cleaner or similar and give it a good cleaning. Also, the jaws of the threading machine leaves small nicks in the pipe. Take the time to sand these out. I thought the paint would hide them, but it didn't. Of course my wife thinks I'm crazy obsessing over the asthetics of a piece of pipe that is mounted up on the ceiling. She's probably right :) .

Thanks guys - Bud, Read the manual and I don't understand why one would mount the projector in the vertical center of the screen. I checked online and found that I can buy a Chief 12-inch extension pole for $25.00, which is close to where I want to be with the screen height. I calculated that I need 14-inches; so many in this case be 2-inches short will not mean much. I looked at the poles at Home Depot - they are just plain ugly and after reading Richh's comments will require to much work to get right.

Thanks guys - Bud, Read the manual and I don't understand why one would mount the projector in the vertical center of the screen. I checked online and found that I can buy a Chief 12-inch extension pole for $25.00, which is close to where I want to be with the screen height. I calculated that I need 14-inches; so maybe in this case being 2-inches short will not mean much. I looked at the poles at Home Depot - they are just plain ugly and after reading Richh's comments will require to much work to get right.

I don't know how anyone could have it centered either, I think you'd have to give up probably some seating to do so and then you run into the issue with people walking in from of the projector.

Anyway, if you can get it for 25.00, that's great, its not worth the other route even if its a $1.00. If you still need to the 2 extra inches, you could just raise up the screen two more inches!

Bud

Here's a couple of pictures of my home made extension pole. Colour doesn't quite match, but the powder coaters ran it through for me two days before Christmas in a standard colour. To get it matched would have been 3 weeks.

I looked at the poles at Home Depot - they are just plain ugly and after reading Richh's comments will require to much work to get right.


Sorry if my post was misleading about being a lot of work. It's probably less than an hour's worth of work to prep and paint the pipe. Not only will you save a little money, but you will get the exact length you need. Well worth it im my opinion.

Anyway, if you can get it for 25.00, that's great, its not worth the other route even if its a $1.00. If you still need to the 2 extra inches, you could just raise up the screen two more inches.

I wanted explain what I meant here in case someone misinterprets my meaning. It wasn't well phrased. What I meant was sometimes it's not worth me making something that I can buy pretty cheap. I'd rather sit on my butt and order something for a twenty bucks that have to make an extra Home Depot run and go that route and save a few bucks. Now if I had to buy 2, 3 or twenty, thats a whole different ballgame. I'm always up for saving some bucks, but I also pick my battles (time vs money).

Bud

Bud,

Did you treat the ends/edges of the Linacoustic where you cut it or along the top/bottom edges? I picked up a roll the other day and noticed on the instruction label they suggest that all cut edges need to be sealed with adhesive. Was wondering if you, or anyone else has done this, or if just installed and covered with GOM.

Thanks for your input.

--------------------------
Doc

Please change the yellow text to black.

Thanks.

ridetheducati

Hows this:

Bud,

Did you treat the ends/edges of the Linacoustic where you cut it or along the top/bottom edges? I picked up a roll the other day and noticed on the instruction label they suggest that all cut edges need to be sealed with adhesive. Was wondering if you, or anyone else has done this, or if just installed and covered with GOM.

Thanks for your input.

----------------------------
Doc

No, have not treated the edges and have not heard anyone that has. Remember though, this stuff is really intended for lining ducts, and having air pass over it constantly. I assume that it was suggested so fiberglass material does not get in the air and the system. Anyone else have other comments on this?

Bud

I'd guess that's the reason Bud. Haven't seen pictures in a couple days man.... you slacker! :D

Hey man, you want pictures? Here you go. Door knobs arrived. Bought them on ebay. Almost done caulking, should be done tomorrow. I can post pictures of tubes of caulk if you want! I'm waiting on the acoustical cotton and FRK from Bryan, then I can move forward there. I've also got four stains (now down to two) that I'm looking at. Leaning towards the Rosewood.

http://images15.fotki.com/v229/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0369-vi.jpg
http://images16.fotki.com/v283/photos/6/649633/3002014/100_0373-vi.jpg

Bud

Bud...

I like the Rosewood too, but have you thought about your carpeting? It might make a difference in stain color depending on the "shade" of carpet you go with!

Sean

Bud...

I like the Rosewood too, but have you thought about your carpeting? It might make a difference in stain color depending on the "shade" of carpet you go with!

Sean

Sean,

Good thought. I'm still out on the carpet. I bought a few small cans or minwax to get some ideas. I don't think I'd start staining until I at least figured out the GOM and carpet thing. I have narrowed the GOM down to two that I like, but I need to definitely look at flooring soon to make a final decision on anything.

Bud

Hey man, you want pictures? Here you go. Door knobs arrived. Bought them on ebay. Almost done caulking, should be done tomorrow. I can post pictures of tubes of caulk if you want! I'm waiting on the acoustical cotton and FRK from Bryan, then I can move forward there. I've also got four stains (now down to two) that I'm looking at. Leaning towards the Rosewood.

Bud
Now you're talkin! Nothing more I'd like to see than door knobs. I have to buy a camera and get some new pics posted so you don't start busting my balls about my slow progress.

Bud...

You could even take your stain samples with ya to the carpet place and find a nice pairing, although you will deffinetly want to bring carpet samples home. You'd be suprised at how much different a carpet looks in your own home. Plus you have some pretty unique lighting in your theater, so it would be good to put the samples it the room with your stain samples.

Sean

I agree. I also need to go back and review my orginal paint chips I selected for the rest of the basement so I can buy some small samples to put up on the wall in the gameroom. Man, still a lot to do.

Bud

Bud,

Not sure how much trouble you want to go through finding the right stain, but I was originally planning on doing a bunch of woodwork and staining on my theater and must have spent a few hundred bucks evaluating different manufactures and colors. I found I got much better results and colors using stains from General Finishes and Benjamin Moore than the minwax stuff. I don't do very much staining so this was great stuff for the novice.

Check out a store called woodcraft. They have a place in roswell if thats close to you. The one buy me had everything you could ever want for wood work and finishing including a very helpful and knowledgable staff.

I achieved the look I wanted after a bunch of experimentation, but ultimately decided I would just go with the fabric panel look. I wish I had taken some pics of the sample board I made before I got rid of it.

Hey Mike,

Thanks. I wanted to look into Benajim Moore paints anyway, I've had some good luck with them. I'll take a look into woodcraft as well, they're not far.

Bud

Now you're talkin! Nothing more I'd like to see than door knobs. I have to buy a camera and get some new pics posted so you don't start busting my balls about my slow progress.

Agreed. Its just a matter of time before the hammer comes down! I think Scott started in Ruben's thread....

Bud

I'm waiting on the acoustical cotton and FRK from Bryan, then I can move forward there.

Bud

Hey Bud,
Is the FRK a backing that is attached to something? Or is it basically just a type of kraft paper to attach to what you already have on the wall?

Steve,

I'll let Bryan talk to the specifics/properties Here's the description:

"Foil Scrim..... Convert any absorbant material to an FRK face. Perfect for when you need to deal with bass issues but need to reflect the mids and highs. When used with 1 inch material, provides a nice hump in absorbtion in the 250Hz band"

Here is a link to the info on his site:
http://sensiblesoundsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=46

Bryan, cotton just arrived.

Bud

Not sure how to install it yet, but here it is:

http://images16.fotki.com/v277/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0374-vi.jpg

Bud

Good deal.

The scrim is a foil reinforced kraft paper. You can buy OC 703 or equivalent with the facing already applied but it costs about double. OR, you can buy just the scrim and attach it with spray adhesive for considerably less. Makes no sense to me but that's the facts.

The scrim not only keeps the absorbtion from working on the upper frequencies, but it also tends to act somewhat like a membrane which, depending on the thickness and density of what it's attached to, yields some additional absorbtion at some group of frequencies.

Bud,

My normal place for shipping tubes for the facing is out. I'm going out tonight to find something big enough to ship the roll of scrim to you. Should have it in a few days. Sorry for the delay.

I agree. I also need to go back and review my orginal paint chips I selected for the rest of the basement so I can buy some small samples to put up on the wall in the gameroom. Man, still a lot to do.

Bud

Don't get frustrated now! Once the stain is on and the carpet's in, you're in the home stretch and it becomes a real space!! Then the fun starts!!

Sean

My normal place for shipping tubes for the facing is out. I'm going out tonight to find something big enough to ship the roll of scrim to you. Should have it in a few days. Sorry for the delay.

Bryan,

Not a problem. Any suggestions on installing the cotton in the corners?

Bud

Don't get frustrated now! Once the stain is on and the carpet's in, you're in the home stretch and it becomes a real space!! Then the fun starts!!

Sean

Sean,

Nah. I'll get there. I'm on the down slope!

Bud

Check out a store called woodcraft. They have a place in roswell if thats close to you. The one buy me had everything you could ever want for wood work and finishing including a very helpful and knowledgable staff.

Mike, I get their catalog, didn't realize they had stores! Also looking online at the General stains. Thanks.

Bud

I'd do the thinner behind the speakers first. Then double up the rest to do in 1 shot (for what is going to sit flush with the wall). If you can get some long T-Pins, those will work or you could frame it and just use a friction fit with the frame attached with a couple of L brackets.

For the angled piece across the top, definitely frame it with 1x stock and mount it with brackets. Again, a friction fit of the cotton will work fine. On this one, you might want to staple some lightweight muslin over the front.

Bryan,

Not a problem. Any suggestions on installing the cotton in the corners?

Bud
Bud,

I'll let Bryan tall you how and where to install it but here is how to cut it. One of the other other AVSers that Bryan helped out had to cut it himself. This is what he told me:

"Basically you can cut this stuff very well with a skil saw (circular) using a fine tooth blade. I used an OSB/Plywood type blade. I fought for 3 hours with a cheap electric knife, it’s a beating. It took me about 30 to 45 minutes total to make all my cuts once I switched to the skil saw."

If you want to take a shot with the skill saw, that's your business. I personally wouldn't - I like my fingers ;) It might work fine but I'm not willing to chance it. I've had very good luck with the carving knife. I use it all the time - you just need to be patient and not expect to cut through 5" thick, 24" wide material in 2 seconds - maybe 30. The more you try to push it, the more it will fight you.

Great, thanks guys. Bryan, I just sent you an email before I saw your post. I'm a little confused. So the angled pieces across the top, that's just above the speakers, correct? Also, should I cut two foot triangles for the angled part, build a shelf and just stack them?

Bud

The angled part is from side to side fully. Just use a friction fit in the frame (flat frame, no triangles). Then you just have to mount it at 45 degrees to the corner as long as you have enough space behind the false wall. If you don't, you can fudge the angle a little bit to make it fit.

BTW, I picked up the tube and will get the scrim out tomorrow.

Bryan

Bud,

Yes, sealing the edges/cuts of the linacoustic is to prevent fibreglass fibres from spreading into the room. Obviosuly more important when used for it's original purpose. Was just curious what you and any others did. Thanks.


------------------------
Doc

The angled part is from side to side fully. Just use a friction fit in the frame (flat frame, no triangles). Then you just have to mount it at 45 degrees to the corner as long as you have enough space behind the false wall. If you don't, you can fudge the angle a little bit to make it fit.

BTW, I picked up the tube and will get the scrim out tomorrow.

Bryan

Cool, thanks!

Thought I was going to work on "Caulk & Cotton" today, but looks like I'll be heading up to Dalton, GA (carpet capital of the world!) to check out carpets and flooring. My kids are going to play at a friends, so I figured I'd take advantage and go on a road trip with the wife. I want to make sure she has some say in the process! ;)

Bud

Smart man.

Great Googly Moogly!

In the first 5 mins, we found a great wool carpet with a great pattern that was discounted because it was discontinued. Normally like 60+ a sq yard, down to around 20 a sq yard. It was red though. No other colors available. Just couldn't pull the trigger on red. We then spent the next three hours walking through warehouse looking at rolls of carpet and samples. We found one commercial type carpet, but wasn't 100%. We found some samples that my wife liked, but I wasn't sure on. So we ended up with nothing. Way too many samples to look at. I looked at laminates and engineered wood floors as well and again, way too many things to look at.

They also have a huge furniture store and they have a "home theater" section. I knew they had the Berks, so we went back and took a look. They only had 90s and 94s. The 90s we very comfortable but not high enough in the back for me. I was a little surprised and disappointed. The 94s were a good fit though. So that's probably the route I'd take when I can afford them.

Bud

Great Googly Moogly!

In the first 5 mins, we found a great wool carpet with a great pattern that was discounted because it was discontinued. Normally like 60+ a sq yard, down to around 20 a sq yard. It was red though. No other colors available. Just couldn't pull the trigger on red. We then spent the next three hours walking through warehouse looking at rolls of carpet and samples. We found one commercial type carpet, but wasn't 100%. We found some samples that my wife liked, but I wasn't sure on. So we ended up with nothing. Way too many samples to look at. I looked at laminates and engineered wood floors as well and again, way too many things to look at.

Bud
So the moral of the carpet/flooring story is to go somewhere with a limited selection. :D

So the moral of the carpet/flooring story is to go somewhere with a limited selection. :D

Only if you bring your wife!

Bud

Yeah Man, carpet selecting is tough. Especially if Your looking for a black carpet with a pattern like I was. Everything was black and tan, too busy or solid black. So I just settled for something with a neutral pattern and I now have to dye the lines in the pattern to match my room.

If I would of done a brown and black room, I would of been set. If I would of done a red carpet, I would of been set. There are many red carpets with patterns to choose from around here.

Find a few patterns you like and let someone like Chirpie render out the room for you with the different carpet choices. That's what I did and it helped me out allot.

Ruben

Bud...

Choosing carpet is a real tough one. I agree with bringing the wife along.

Have you tried HD or Lowes?! HD is having a No Interest-No Payments for One Year, right now.

After the wife and I searched tons of "carpet-stores" and millions choices, I agree with jerrodshook. Limiting the selection helps a bit.

AVOID WOOL CARPET!! It's imposible to clean, and typically very expensive. Don't buy any of the salespersons pitch about spraying it with a stain inhibitor. It doesn't work!!

Sean

It seems like quite a few people have bought carpet from HD and Lowes. I haven't looked at carpets yet.

Sean,

I always wander through the carpet and tile sections for ideas at the big box stores. I meant it when I said Dalton was the carpet capital of the world. Its my understanding that 90% of carpeting comes out of there. There is literally 30 stores and warehouses in about one square mile there. I'm not sure if HD could even match the prices. I was just at Lowes about an hour ago looking as well.

On the wool carpet, thanks for the info. It was really nice to the touch, but I'm not hung up on the material. Nylon would work for me, as long as it's relatively soft.

Bud

Bud,

I've been in the carpet cleaning business for the past 12 years and even sold carpet when I worked for my corporate office as an ancillary product line. All materials can be cleaned, but wool sure stinks when it gets wet. IMO based on characteristics of the materials I would go w/ a nylon as well. 99% of carpets come w/ a form of stainmaster and a wear dated dry soil protection, so as Sean said, dont fall for the addtional sales pitch. Also, beware of the salesman that uses the manufactures warranty as a sales pitch. Other than a manufacture defect, the warranty is useless bc it excludes anything that can actually damage the carpet. If you are able to buy direct from one of the mills (Shaw or Mohawk) warehouses that is great!

BTW Thanks for all the help, I got my x10 switches in last week.

Mark

Mark,

Cool. Thanks for the input!

Bud

Gentlemen,

Some recent events have got me thinking about my career options again. I've been going back and forth for a while, but am considering a job and/or career change. You can never network too much, so I've decided to post a resume in the "Job Seeking" forum a resume in case someone comes across it. If you know of anything, PM me or send me an email.

Thanks!

Bud

Bryan,

Scrim came today. Do I pull off the paper side or not? 1.5 feet on the side walls with spray adhesive, correct?

Thanks,

Bud

Bud this isn't like you...

I hope all is well and that you're just hard at work (either on the basement or on the new job...)
Can't wait to see your progress

Kevin -

Kevin,

Thanks. Been lurking part time the last few days.

I actually took a few days off both from work and the basement. My kids were off last week and I wanted to spend some time with them while I could, since I'm not sure what my next move will be on the job situation.

As far as the HT room, I did exchange emails with Bryan, so I did put up the scrim on Saturday. I'll need to take a few pictures and post here. I still need to install my cotton though,get some muslin and finalize the design for the corners. Got some ideas there. I also finished up my last piece of drywall on my cove and started putting the metal edging on the bottom of the cove in preparation for GOM. Still out on GOM colors and carpet though. As far as the rest of the basement is concerned, still caulking and filling in nail holes.

Bud

Here's a shot of the scrim installed on the linacoustic. It's installed on both the left and right walls about 18 inches high for the length of the wall. I installed it using 3M spray adhesive. Ignore the plastic and other distractions in the picture.

http://images16.fotki.com/v279/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0376-vi.jpg

Bud

Lookin good bud. You're probably chomping at the bit to get some tunes going in there...

Hey Bud, I want you to know you've had a positive impact on me and I've pulled the trigger on the Panasonic PT-AE900U with 1 day left on the $400 rebate. I saw it on the Audioholics $25K Recommended Home Theater System (http://www.audioholics.com/showcase/systemguide/25KRecommendedhometheater.php) page and it sent me over the edge. By-the-way the lady sitting in the chairs on page 2 is one of my good friend's wife (small world).

Can't wait till I'm at the scrim stage. :)

Dave

Dave,

Good deal, I know you'll enjoy it and its a great price. Another great bang for the buck. You couldn't have gone wrong with the Z4 either, I'm sure. Let us know how it works out for you. Where did you get it?

The woman in the 088s is your friends wife? Pretty funny. You out to leverage that to get deal on the Berks... She's probably not affiliated with Berkline, I know, just another gorgeous chair model...

Bud

Bud,

A while back in your thread you said that you were originally trying to decide between the z4 and the 900, but something made you go for the 900. Did you ever remember what the deciding factor was? I didn't remember seeing that but I could have missed a post along the way. :)

Where did you get it?visual apex, their price was good but their extended warranty is a nice bonus.

You out to leverage that to get deal on the Berks...
Actually her dad is a professional photographer and does a lot of work in the furniture industry. The furniture companies regularly send the stuff not expecting it back and sometimes they charge a few hundred dollars. They got us a nice set for the basement but the Berks seem to be a little harder to acquire.

Keep up the good work and good luck with any potential career change decisions that seem to be looming on the horizon.

Dave

Bud,

A while back in your thread you said that you were originally trying to decide between the z4 and the 900, but something made you go for the 900. Did you ever remember what the deciding factor was? I didn't remember seeing that but I could have missed a post along the way. :)

I'm pretty sure these were the articles I was referring to. I don't think I posted them before. I'll let you come up with your own conclusions here based on what was written. I'm sure that the conclusions may be biased in some way in these particular articles, but they are similar to a lot of other comparisons I've read. One thing that I remember that jumped out at me was the handling of SDTV. I don't expect much use of the projector for SDTV, but with limited HDTV channels and kids, its nice to know that it is viewable.

ProjectorReviews.com -> Projector Comparison Summary: Z4 vs PT-AE900u (http://www.projectorreviews.com/comparison/z4ae900u/index.asp)
FocusedTechnology -> Panasonic PT-AE900U vs. Sanyo PLV-Z4 (http://www.focusedtechnology.com/sanyo-plvz4-panasonic-ptae900.html)

Hope this helps.

Bud

That's one small bump for Bud...
one... giant... leap for this thread -

Bud-

This is my first post on this wonderful forum so I hope I observe all the rules, decorum, etc. I have basically spent the better part of the last 5 or 6 days reading through your thread and SandmanX's thread from start to finish and am just amazed not just at how superb your theater, work ethic and commitment to detail are, but also at how willing you and so many others are to take the time to post so much information, answer so many questions and educate us newbies. I'm sure if you never posted you would have been able to finish weeks ago - then again, I suppose if nobody ever posted we all would know only a small fraction of what we currently know.

Though I have not yet embarked on the HT quest I intend to do so at sometime in the near (hopefully :) ) future and feel so much more prepared for having spent time on this forum. I think I will enjoy the construction/planing process as much if not more than the completed theater.

One of the funny things about reading these huge threads from start to finish is that you can't wait to get to the end to see the final product as you expect them to be completed by the time you get to the end, only to find out that you've just caught up to reality - kind of like reading a long book only to find out that the last chapter is not yet completed. (Though by the looks of it your theater will be more enjoyable than any book I've ever read!) The other interesting thing is that you start to feel like you really know the people on the thread (even if you're only a lurker like me :o ).

Anyhow, I wanted to thank you (and so many others) for sharing your knowledge and compliment you on an outstanding job thus far. I hoep you don't mind if I pile on the questions when I finally get around to doing it myself!

Now to find a new house with and extra room for a dedicated HT - man, this is going to be an expensive hobby! :D For now I'll just tell my wife the extra room is for "storage" (she doesn't need to know that we'll be storing a project, equipment rack, speakers, etc!) :D

Hey Hoya94, thanks for the post and welcome to the insanity...

I spent a lot of time myself reading out here before posting. There's quite a bit of information to absorb. Don't hesitate to ask questions or give opinions. For every one question you have, there are probably 50 people looking for the same info and another 50 people who have the answer.

Did you read from front to back or did you cheat and skip around the book? :p I'm sure it seems to folks that I've slowed down and admittingly I have had some distractions, including baseball season again, job constraints and a few other things. Including paying taxes! Urgh!

I have been doing odds and ends, none of which have been picture worthy. Almost done with caulk and nail holes in the basement, but need some time to get the color scheme squared away, find the damn carpet, etc. I also need to calculate my GOM needs. I can probably just get the black for now and figure out the rest later.

Anyway, welcome...

Bud

Excellent thread Bud. I've lurked on this board for a couple of years and I think this thread is one of the most helpful I've ever read. Do you have a dimensioned plan of your entire basement buildout?Been a while, sorry for the delay. Just got around to adding the dimensions. They're rough, based on rounded off measurements for the trim. I calculate about 1200 sq feet of finished space and 1400 total including the mechanical room and my workshop.

Bud

Bud, I'm sure it's buried in this thread somewhere, but how high is the ceiling in the theater?

Jeff,

First post, I think! Actually, the ceilings are 9 feet. Under the soffits in the HT room and all the rooms except the gameroom are 96.5 inches (two sheets of drywall plus 1/2 inch off the floor). The soffits in the gameroom are about 91 inches due to glued laminate beams constraints. I made the all the same in there to look uniform.

Bud

Yep, it's in the first post. :D I haven't read that one for a while. Thanks.

Hey Bud (or anyone else who has some experience here), When you build your riser for rear seating, are you going to carpet the whole floor and than build a riser over the carpet, or will you build the riser and than carpet around it? I am still debating how I will do mine. If I carpet the entire floor, I can have the liberty to move the riser if need be, but I will be stuck with the placement if I attach it to the concrete and carpet around it. Any thoughts???

Hey Jon,

Riser has been done a while. Post 523. (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6803106&&#post6803106) I think this has come up a few times in the construction threads. I think most people put in the riser prior to carpet. A few have done it the other way though. In my case, I figured that this room will be used for HT, period. Worst case, the carpet could get pulled up, riser removed and new carpet put in. I'm not sure if putting the carpet down first would get crushed underneath the weight of the riser and loungers. It would depend on the carpet, of course.

Bud

Almost done with caulk and nail holes in the basement


Dho... You just pulled ahead of me Bud. I need to get out of this thread and back downstairs working. ;)

I did receive the power supply about two weeks ago. It did NOT have the damn adapter for it like I was told by the Channel Plus folks. I though maybe the seller would have included it. Nope.

Good news though. I called Channel Plus technical support and they just dropped one in the mail for me.

Abierce and whoever else who might have purchased one of these without the power supply, I'd suggest you call Channel Plus customer service if you need the adapter as well. Their number is 800.999.5225. The part number for the power supply is 350-086.

Will hopefully install inthe next two weeks.

Bud
Just another followup. Received my power adapter from Channel Plus finally this week, although I had to call back after a while, since I didn't receive it. I talked to someone different and they had one handy and just sent it to me free of charge. No rush to hook it all up, will get to it soon.

Also, the Comcast "installer" came back yesterday to replace my STBs with HD DVRs with dual tuners. Was told that the units have 120 hour recording capacity for SD and 20 hours for HD. One reason why I switched was because I was told that these were the new HDMI boxes. NOT! I'll have to switch them out later if need be. I'm running DVI upstairs to my Hitachi 51", so that's OK. I'm using component to the Yamaha RXV2500 and HDMI to the AE900.

He actually hooked up the STB in the HT room and I couldn't get a picture after that, turns out he reversed the green and blue cables! And to think it cost me 30 bucks a box for this clown to hook it up. He did mention to me that the area is going all digital in the next couple of months. Looks like the STBs will handle PIP (dual tuners on these) as well once the area is digital, so that'll be interesting.

Bud

Also, the Comcast "installer" came back yesterday to replace my STBs with HD DVRs with dual tuners.
Bud,

Please let me know how the HD Comcast DVR boxes work out with you. I was planning to switch to satellite just because I've hear it was "supposed" to be better. I have a friend that just switched from DTV to Dish because they offered more HD channels, has less compression artifacts and will have MPEG4 sooner.

Bud,

What type of Thermostat did you use on the whisper fan in your equipment closet? Did you set it up with an override switch?

regards,

Billmac

Granted, I'm a thousand miles further north, but I have Comcast with a Motorola 6412 dual-tuner HD DVR (for the past year) and love it. It's recently had a couple of issues with interruptions, but Comcast swapped it out and it seems to be okay now. The picture is awesome and the DVR capabilities are addictive.

Steve,

I've had the HDTV boxes in the house for a while (including the theater) and it's wonderful. It really is excellent. I have not had the dish, so I can't compare. This time around with the DVR, I did notice the hard drive is a little noisy, but nothing I can actually hear from the theater. I may swap it out with the upstairs unit for now which does not seem to have an issue.

As Tim mentioned, the features, including a dual tuner will be nice, but I just haven't had time to really put it to a test. First time DVRer, so its new to me. I don't watch a lot of TV.

Bud

Bud,

What type of Thermostat did you use on the whisper fan in your equipment closet? Did you set it up with an override switch?

regards,

Billmac

Bill,

I used an attic fan thermostat. You can find them at Home Depot for about 16 bucks. You'll find them over in the attic fan section. I did no use an override. You can adjust the temperature to go on as needed, I keep it around 80 degrees and have not heard it on yet running only my equipment at this point.

Bud

Steve,

I've had the HDTV boxes in the house for a while (including the theater) and it's wonderful. It really is excellent. I have not had the dish, so I can't compare. This time around with the DVR, I did notice the hard drive is a little noisy, but nothing I can actually hear from the theater. I may swap it out with the upstairs unit for now which does not seem to have an issue.

As Tim mentioned, the features, including a dual tuner will be nice, but I just haven't had time to really put it to a test. First time DVRer, so its new to me. I don't watch a lot of TV.

Bud


Hey Bud depending on the type of hard drive inside the DVR you can quite it through the drive software. Most manufactures like seagate have software that will pass the appropriate ATA command to the drive EEPROM and will allow you to make changes. One of those changes is for Acoustic Management. You can change the drive spin to enable a quieter drive without any repercussions on the DVR or your recordings.

BTW Direct TV, while lacking in the HD channels (currently 15), has launched 2 MPEG 4 HDTV satellites this year with plans for 6 more by year end. So by Dec every Direct TV channel should be HD, of course you will have to buy new receivers to accept the MPEG4 stream.

Drew

Hey Drew,

Thanks for the info. If it gets to be a problem, I'll look at the alternatives. Every channel in HD? Nice!

Bud

Thank you Tim, Bud and Drew for the comments. It's good to know that Comcast video quality is good.

My wife is leary of the Satellite because she has heard is heavy rain storms, the TV goes out. Everyone I've talked to said this rarely happens and not to worry about it. I'm with Comcast "Standard Def" now and have (2) Series 1 Tivos (love 'em). Since I do not have a HD capable TV yet, no use in upgrading until the HT is completed.

Thank you Tim, Bud and Drew for the comments. It's good to know that Comcast video quality is good.

My wife is leary of the Satellite because she has heard is heavy rain storms, the TV goes out. Everyone I've talked to said this rarely happens and not to worry about it. I'm with Comcast "Standard Def" now and have (2) Series 1 Tivos (love 'em). Since I do not have a HD capable TV yet, no use in upgrading until the HT is completed.

Hey Steve...I've had DirecTV for 7 years now and the only time I did not have reception was when we got a big snow storm and the dish would get covered in snow. It sucked!! I'm a huge Packers fan and it was during their 2nd superbowl run and it was a playoff game. I had to go outside every 20 minutes with my broom to sweep of the snow!!! Small price to pay to watch Brett Favre carve up a defence. To bad they went on to get punked by Elway in the superbowl. That instance aside, I have never lost my signal and have been very happy with DirecTV.

I had a few hours yesterday and finished up the edging around the bottom of my cove. That's done now, no more work on the cove. I also worked with my dad and did the furring strips around the ceiling in preparation for both GOM and crown molding. I moved the projector slightly (a few inches) as well. The lens was slightly off center and I corrected that. I think I originally centered on the projector and not the lense. Typical rookie mistake, I suppose!

http://images16.fotki.com/v282/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0402-vi.jpg
http://images16.fotki.com/v282/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0403-vi.jpg

More furring strips. I need to build templates to house the rear speakers like I did for the side surrounds still. This allows me to staple GOM around the speaker. I was originally going to hide it completely behind GOM, but if I ever had to get to them to replace them, it would be easier to do it this way. I'll paint the grills the same color as the GOM to blend. What do you guys think? Hidden or accessible? I guess I could always unstaple the GOM on that rare occasion I need to get to the speaker.
http://images16.fotki.com/v279/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0404-vi.jpg

I also raised my screen up about 2 inches higher, but I had to add an extra support for the bracket. If you look, you can see the new 2x4 above the screen. I took the screen off this morning and painted it black as well.
http://images16.fotki.com/v282/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0406-vi.jpg

I think I'm down to two colors of GOM. I'm leaning towards 381 - Aquamarine (on the left). The other is 150 - Wedgewood, which I really like as well. I think the Aquamarine will go better with the rest of the basement color scheme though.
http://images1.fotki.com/v290/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0405-vi.jpg

I've been tossing the idea around of moving that heat vent down to the soffit. I've got this thing in my head about possibly doing a paneled star ceiling like Ruben and it would be smarter to do it now than later. Not sure though. I'd have to leave the cans and put the trim/baffle through the panels. I could put the illuminator in the equipment closet, run the fiber from there. I'd have to plan it all out. I'm just not sure I want to do it. Would love to have done it initially, but not sure I want the hassle now being so close. If I moved the heat now though, I'd at least have the option and it would be less hassle later.

Looking good bud. How are you planning to hide the staples in the corners?? I have been thinking about this lately on my build and have come up with a solution that I have not seen posted here yet...

Bud,

Where did you end up purchasing your low level step lighting? I've been looking for something like that but maybe a little bigger. I'm having a heck of a time tracking down something functional and cost effective.

I'm done with electrical and was hoping to have them installed or at least a sample unit before sheetrock starts in a week.

Regards,

billmac

Hey Jason,

Planning on crowning the whole ceiling under the soffit with stained crown to match the other wood in the theater. There are a few spots where I think I may use the Fabricmate track system so I can pull it down easily, but still thinking it through.

Bud

Bud,

Where did you end up purchasing your low level step lighting? I've been looking for something like that but maybe a little bigger. I'm having a heck of a time tracking down something functional and cost effective.

I'm done with electrical and was hoping to have them installed or at least a sample unit before sheetrock starts in a week.

Regards,

billmac

Bill,

I got these through ProLighting.com (http://www.prolighting.com/steplighting.html). They're incandescent and I have 25W bulbs. I may end up painting the louvered covers, but haven't decided.

Bud

thanks, I'll go check these out.

I noticed yours are installed ontop of the insulation. Are these step lights insulation safe like some of the IC-type of recessed ceiling lights?

Also was curious is the louvered covers come off so you can sheetrock over them or do they go on after sheetrock?

Regards,

billmac

Bill,

Correct, these particular ones are IC rated. Doesn't state it online on the site, but does have it one the unit itself. The unit is completely enclosed in a metal box, the louver come comes on and off without a problem.

Bud

For the speakers how about going for hidden and accessible. Can you take that template cover it with GOM and then attach it with the industrial velcro. Just add a furring strip around it for the soffit GOM material and it will act like a grill cover that is removable and the seams should be virtually invisible.

More furring strips. I need to build templates to house the rear speakers like I did for the side surrounds still. This allows me to staple GOM around the speaker. I was originally going to hide it completely behind GOM, but if I ever had to get to them to replace them, it would be easier to do it this way. I'll paint the grills the same color as the GOM to blend. What do you guys think? Hidden or accessible? I guess I could always unstaple the GOM on that rare occasion I need to get to the speaker.

Bud,

These in-walls have grills --right? Well why don't yau put them on the outside (for easy access) but wrap the grills in the same GOM you are using for the walls. Should blend in well and have a slight bump-out because of the speaker grill.

A few other options:

1) Recess the inwalls just slightly so the grills sits in even with the wall vs. sticking out a little. Cover the grill with GOM to get a more FLAT look

2) MY FAVORITE --- if you really want to get fancy, recess the speakers 3/4", build a simple removable frame (just like a picture frame) and cover the frame with GOM. I see it made out of 1x2 pine but you could even get away with the 3/4" x 3/4" hardwood. I made mine from a combo of both materials. Yours would be lots easier to build since you do not have to deal with the depth of a column as I did. Hold it in with Industrial Velcro and you're done :)

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/misc/frame1.jpg http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/misc/frame2.jpg

Mike,

Great idea! Actually, was thinking about those speaker grill magnets, but they may be too deep. Velcro is probably a better alternative. Good deal. Thanks Mike.

Bud

Mike,

Great idea! Actually, was thinking about those speaker grill magnets, but they may be too deep. Velcro is probably a better alternative. Good deal. Thanks Mike.

Bud
Looks like Mike beat me to the punch :D

Steve,

Another great idea on the grills. I'll have to check that one. The grills go inside the ring that mounts the speakers with tabs. That would have to be painted and would need to be on the outside.

On your #1, if I understand correctly the speakers are actually recessed. My original though was to staple the GOM in the corners on the furring on the ceiling, which is an inch thick, then pull the GOM over the bottom (newly installed) edge of the cover and up and over the top edge of the cover. I was going to then staple on the top of the cove on the flat part. I'll post a mock up of the drawing.

I think your #2 is similar to Mike's and this is definitely an option. I think you guys have solved it!

Thanks!

Bud

Here is how I propose to do the GOM under the soffits. I think this is the idea that Steve and Mike were proposing...

http://images16.fotki.com/v282/photos/6/649633/3018602/GOMinstall-vi.jpg

Bud

Hey Bud. Just one thought on your proposed GOM application to the Soffit. That is exactly how I did mine and the one thing you have to be careful off is the edge of the fabric up on top of the cove. If it overhangs just a bit (or, you're stupid like I was and use the salvage end up there and all the little hairy things are hanging inside your light tray) then the cove lighting may throw some funny shadows.

Now, it looks like your light tray is huge so maybe not as big an issue for you but just something to be aware of...

Hey Bud. Just one thought on your proposed GOM application to the Soffit. That is exactly how I did mine and the one thing you have to be careful off is the edge of the fabric up on top of the cove. If it overhangs just a bit (or, you're stupid like I was and use the salvage end up there and all the little hairy things are hanging inside your light tray) then the cove lighting may throw some funny shadows.

Now, it looks like your light tray is huge so maybe not as big an issue for you but just something to be aware of...

Hey Eric, thanks for the post.

I actually used 1x6's to cap off the top of the cove and they are recessed about 3/4 of an inch. I plan on stapling the GOM right at the bottom where the 1x6 and the cove meet. I'll keep that in mind though. I should be able to take a piece of GOM and cut it the long way and use half on one soffit and half on the other on the sides. The back will be a little trickier, I think I'll end up with three sections and will have to run it front to back. I was thinking about using the fabricmate track for that section (mid ceiling, not in the corners).

Bud

I took the screen off this morning and painted it black as well.


Black screen? :eek: Wont that be a little hard to get a good picture on?


Lol, JK. I know you were actually talking about the 2x4... just had to do it.
:D

Ronnie

Ronnie,

LOL. That must have been a little payback for that avatar comment in your thread, hmmm?

Bud

Ronnie,

LOL. That must have been a little payback for that avatar comment in your thread, hmmm?

Bud


All in fun my friend...... :p

Your theater is coming along nicely. I guess I need to get in gear so I can catch up with you and Swithey.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Well, seems to me like you've got nothing to worry about. I'm watching all these other folks start after me and finish before me. It's just a matter of time before you guys pass me and finish!

Any luck on the T pins?

Bud

Ronnie,

Well, seems to me like you've got nothing to worry about. I'm watching all these other folks start after me and finish before me. It's just a matter of time before you guys pass me and finish!

Any luck on the T pins?

Bud


I have not looked for them yet. I did run accross something in HD the other day while browsing around that might work. Its a package of 7" spikes and 5" ferrules that are used to hang guttering with.

Im wondering about using a 24" peice of angle iron like you hang garage openers with. You take the ferrels and place 3 of them evenly across the cotton, then put the spike screws through the angle iron and the cotton. Do this at ceiling height. This might squeeze the cotton against the wall and create a hanger for it. Your would need some sort of furring strip to run horizontally across the wall to put the spike screws into.

I also thought about using some clamps similar to jumper cables. You could grab the cotton with these, then using eyehooks or something similar, hang the clamps from the ceiling. This would let the cotton hang.

In my situation, its all behind the screen wall and speaker columns, so a hanging style like this should be ok.


Sound like it would work?

Ronnie

I also found this place for some pre-fab hangers.

http://www.agmind.com/insul_hangers/index.htm

Ronnie

Ronnie, sounds like the clamps would work. I guess there a lot of different ways to approach it. I like the hangers you found. I may order some. I'll keep you posted.

Bud

The perforated base ones is what I was talking about. The drop through nails also go up to 12" for any double thicknesses.

If you want to make a hanger, just clamp it between 2 pcs of plywood and run a couple pcs of line through it and over the plywood to hang.

With the clips, you get it all the way up to the ceiling but either will work.

I havent seen this cotton first hand, but it sounds like this stuff is pretty sturdy. I guess we dont have to worry about it ripping and tearing? With all the ways we have been talking about doing it, nobody has mentioned anything.

I also thought about draping 8 peices of it across a 1x4 so that only about 12 inches of it hang over. I could then take this entire 16' section of wood and nail it to the rear soffit ceiling. This would hold it up and let the rest drape down to the floor up against the wall. Doing it this way would also allow you to move it out away from the wall if needed for that extra gap that I see some talk about.

BPape? Would we benefit from leaving a 6" gap between the cotton and the wall?

Ronnie

Coming along nicely Bud! You guys keep talking about catching up and beating each other. I'd kill to have drywall up right now.....

That tray and how you did it is still one of my fav's in your room.