Thanks Jerrod. The cove is my favorite part as well, hopefully it'll come out like the picture in my head.

I think I'm going to go ahead and order my black GOM this week. I ordered a few more samples from Guilford as well, hopefully I'll have them in the next week. I've got to finish up my caulk, nail holes and clean scraps, put my tools and saws away, then paint. Even if I order the black today and had it tomorrow. It's still two or three weeks out before I can install. I'd still like to have the black done by the end of the month..... slooooow progress!

Bud

EDIT: 1000 posts! Man, this thread is getting long. Not Sandman long, but long.

WOW 1001 posts. Quite the milestone. Did you ever think you'd get this sort of response when you started your theater and this post?

By the way, thanks for taking all of the time and giving us all of the "nitty gritty" details. The amount/quality of information in this thread (and the 4 or 5 other threads that I follow on a consistent basis) is invaluable. I can't begin to count the time I said "Woops, I almost did that. I'd better modify my plans./Change this approach./Add this. Its a good thing someone else is a 6 weeks ahead of me in the build process".

Keep up the good work and the posts. Looks like you are getting close.

StewartFan20,

No, I had no idea that this thread would be a living and breathing thing. I do have to say that of the (now) 1003 posts, 486 are actually mine, including this one.

It's not just me, I want to thank everyone for their participation here. I've learned so much from the group and watching other builds that I figured it would be good payback to try and be thorough. I enjoy the innovation and creativity that everyone has. I especially enjoy the challenges!

As you mentioned, hopefully people have learned from my mistakes and will avoid them or give them new ideas.

A big THANKS to you all!

Bud

No, I had no idea that this thread would be a living and breathing thing. I do have to say that of the (now) 1003 posts, 486 are actually mine, including this one.

It's not just me, I want to thank everyone for their participation here.
Bud
I think it's the Avatar that brought them in. Hey, there might be some girls out there.. if not, maybe we should rename the thread to "Brokeback Ridge Cinema" :D

But seriously, Bud, you're doing a great job on the HT. My wife asked me where I was on ours this morning. I told her I have so many things "in-progress" that I had no idea. Can't wait until mine comes together like yours -- at least someday ;)

Thanks, Steve.

Or just rename it to "Broke"!

Bud

Ronnie,

It wasn't planned to be spaced off the wall 6" but realistically it wouldn't hurt as it will only matter much in the subwoofer range.

Bryan

No, no, Bud. Thank you.
A great DIY thread.

Someone asked you awhile back if your theater would be sporting a western theme.
How about Blazing Saddles Cinema? ;)

Milt,

Thanks. I got kicked in the family jewels by a horse when I was about fourteen, so saddles, horses, etc. just brings back bad memories! My friend didn't tell me that the horses name was "Bucky" until after I was on it. He started to buck and I went off the back. Took one hoof in the knee and the other a little "off-centered", but not by much! Nothing like rolling around on the ground in horse poop, either!

Thought you guys would get a good laugh out of that one!!

Bud

Why don't you change the name of the HT to "Blazing Ballz Cinema"...

Why do you change the name of the HT to "Blazing Ballz Cinema"...
Ahh, the next movie poster for your HT (to fit the theme).

--> Bud, I'm sure you'll get me back for this :D

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/misc/BS-Bud.jpg

--> Bud, I'm sure you'll get me back for this :D

When you least expect it .... ;)

Bud

Wow Bud, things just keep clipping along for you.
Any projected date yet for completion?

Craig

Hey Craig,

I'd like to HT room done by mid April now. I have some family coming into down and would like to have that pretty much wrapped up by then. That'll probably without chairs though. The rest of the basement I'm not so sure on. The paint will be done, flooring may wait in the rest of the basement a month or two. Trying to watch my cash flow, got some pending things going on.

Bud

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/misc/BS-Bud.jpg


LOL.... I just now noticed Bud was riding the horse. :D Pretty funny Steve.


Ronnie

LOL.... I just now noticed Bud was riding the horse. :D Pretty funny Steve.


Ronnie
I was wondering if anyone would notice that. I think Bud saw it, though :p

Lol!!

That was funny! First thing I noticed was Bud ridin that horse.

Bud,

I received my low level step lighting today. Thanks for the pointer to ProLighting.

I was curious as to what is the general mounting height for these types of lights? I know everything is subjective but I'm assuming there are general guidelines like those for mounting outlets, switches, etc.

Regards,

billmac

billmac - I'd have to measure to be sure, but I believe my electrician mounted mine about outlet height above the step. However, I think there is a lot of leeway here. You probably just want to put it where it looks right and will throw low light on the step area. Probably can't go too wrong...

Bill,

That was quick. I agree with ebr, put it where you think it's right. Some actually put them in the step (go figure). I put mine where I did because of space limitations. I was lucky I could get them symmetrical. The one opposite the door is actually under one of the windows I had to drywall over. It was pretty tight getting it in there.

Bud

Bud,

Im not sure I have chimed in yet on your thread but just want to say that between you and Ronnie im not sure I will have any of my own original ideas once I actually start my own project here in a few months. You are really paying attention to the little details and in the end im sure it will be everything you wanted...probably more.

Looks great..keep it up

Robert

Robert,

Thanks. Good luck with yours as well.

Bud

Just ordered 21 Yards of FR701 2100 in lovely 408 (black) and 25 feet of the fabricmate track. That's enough for the screen wall and under the soffits. I guess I need to get off my butt and finish my other stuff so I can paint the ceiling and put the GOM up! I'll hold off on the walls until I get my few new GOM samples I just ordered.

Bud

Anyone looking for a Harmony 880?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=654356

Bud

Anyone looking for a Harmony 880?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=654356

Bud

Hey Bud, I am looking for one. The link wasn't working though.

Just ordered 21 Yards of FR701 2100 in lovely 408 (black) and 25 feet of the fabricmate track. That's enough for the screen wall and under the soffits. I guess I need to get off my butt and finish my other stuff so I can paint the ceiling and put the GOM up! I'll hold off on the walls until I get my few new GOM samples I just ordered.

Bud

Hey Bud I got some Fabricmate Tracks if you need them. I bought them and never used them.

Let Me Know.

Just ordered 21 Yards of FR701 2100 in lovely 408 (black) and 25 feet of the fabricmate track. That's enough for the screen wall and under the soffits. I guess I need to get off my butt and finish my other stuff so I can paint the ceiling and put the GOM up! I'll hold off on the walls until I get my few new GOM samples I just ordered.

Bud

Who did you find had the best deals on GOM ??

Hey Bud, I am looking for one. The link wasn't working though.

Ruben,

AVS must have pulled the thread because I double checked it last night. It was from the Dell site. The actual post also had a coupon code for 30% off and also had a link to the 50.00 rebate that Logitech was offering. Net for the 880 after the two deals was like 124.00! I thought it might get pulled and I must have seen it right after it was posted. Sorry about that. I think the rebate is good until April 25th.

Bud

Hey Bud I got some Fabricmate Tracks if you need them. I bought them and never used them.

Let Me Know.

Will do thanks. I didn't really need much, I'm using furring strips in most places, I have portion on the soffit around the projector I'm going to try using it. If it doesn't work out, I'll be going back to furring. I appreciate it though!

Bud

Who did you find had the best deals on GOM ??

I went the Fabricmate (http://www.fabricmate.com) route. Seems to have great prices. Depending on what I go with on the walls, I'll probably go back for the rest as well.

Bud

Ruben,

AVS must have pulled the thread because I double checked it last night. It was from the Dell site. The actual post also had a coupon code for 30% off and also had a link to the 50.00 rebate that Logitech was offering. Net for the 880 after the two deals was like 124.00! I thought it might get pulled and I must have seen it right after it was posted. Sorry about that. I think the rebate is good until April 25th.

Bud


Go to slickdeals.net, enter the forums, search for harmony and the details will pop up. The coupon expires on the 11th, if memory serves. Although Dell has lots of coupons. I am thinking about this one.

Go to slickdeals.net, enter the forums, search for harmony and the details will pop up. The coupon expires on the 11th, if memory serves. Although Dell has lots of coupons. I am thinking about this one.

I printed out the $50 rebate form last night, it says offer valid from 01/19/06 until 04/25/2006 (purchase must be made between those dates). I'll try and find the link and repost. However, the coupon code for 30% is gone forever. I should have cut and pasted it somewhere. The rebate is good for the 880 or 676.

Bud

EDIT: Here is one rebate form. (http://g-images.amazon.com/images/G/01/00/10/00/17/18/91/100017189105._V56766657_.pdf) Although this one shows good until 04/03/06. Good "Buy it Now" price on new 880s at the worlds largest auction site. Item number: 5871553820 Here's the better rebate form (http://www.hot-deals.org/text/logitech6/logitech.pdf) which goes until 04/25/2006. I also found the coupon number, PM me and I'll send you the link.

BTW, for those of you guys interested in the AE900, there was a post in the AE900 thread discussing Costco's very lenient return policy, which promoted me to go look at the Costco site. Apparently you can return anything back purchased on Costco.com to any of their stores. The price with the rebate is very good as well. I linked to it in that thread and it got pulled by the moderators. So go look for yourself if you're for one.

Bud

Hey Bud, I am looking for one. The link wasn't working though.

Ruben,

You have a PM.

Bud

Just FYI that Harmony can be found on the net for the price you were getting with the coupon. Just do a pricegrabber or similar search.

As an aside, I recently bought one and the up arrow button didn't work on it. I called Logitech, told them the story and they sent me a brand new one. Even though, I personally prefer the layout and feel of my MX-500 (the wife likes the harmony) that is some great customer support.

Eric,

I figured that once I went to ebay. Good to know. I did buy one, although I was in need of a universal for upstairs. I heard from Ben that he had some problems with several he had purchased for installs. I may look at something else for the HT room, depending on what happens. $124.00 net after discount and rebate... not bad.

Bud

The coupon code is on the forum I mentioned, and is good through tomorrow, or untill 1000 units are sold whichever comes first. I agree you can find it elsewhere for similar prices or you can buy stacking coupons off e-bay and try to drive the deal lower. Bud your in the AVS club, isn't this in the deals section above?

Dave,

I didn't see the deal for the remote there no. I found it in the HDTV Hardware forum. The AE900 deal is there though. I guess I'll post the rebate form there as well.

Bud

EDIT: Did find some info here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=653746

New GOM samples came yesterday. I may have a new contender. It's in the Lido style (2858) and there are two colors. Leaning towards the top one now.

Pine Valley - 054 (http://samplecenter.guilfordofmaine.com/servlet/ProductView?productId=5864)
http://samplecenter.guilfordofmaine.com/html/images/sample/large/2858_054.jpg

same style, different color(more blue) is:
Huron - 058 (http://samplecenter.guilfordofmaine.com/servlet/ProductView?productId=5865)
http://samplecenter.guilfordofmaine.com/html/images/sample/large/2858_055.jpg

My black GOM from Fabricmate will ship Monday.

I'll snap a shot of the bigger sample later today. We've got my son's opening day parade this morning for baseball and will be heading out shortly.

Bud

BUd,

Thats some nice looking GOM there....how much will you need for your room, are you putting it anywhere besides the theater like maybe the concession area....wasnt sure if you dtry to incorperate some in that area too.

Been meaning to ask, whats your opinion on the easiest and best bang for the buck multisystem control type units....heating, lighting, electronics..etc, etc......unless im wrong you have installed more than one theater right, so I thought you migh have a preffered system,unit or maker.

Thanks Bud

Hey Robert,

I ordered 21 yards of the black for the front wall and soffits. I think I'll need 34 yards of the wall material. I probably won't do any material in the concession area, I'll just try and match up the color and paint it. If I have any left off, maybe I'll get creative with it.

When you mention control type units, are you referring to home automation controllers? If that's the case, my experience has only been with the HAI Omnipro II, but there cheaper alternatives, I'm sure.

I've done a few basements. I've also done some "home theater" type installs and setups, but this is my first full blown dedicated room.

Bud

Saturday was pretty much a bust from the HT standpoint. Sunday I managed maybe two hours in the basement.

First thing I did was fill in the hole in the concrete floor where they jacked it to my the tub pipe. It'll been like that a while, I just got around to it. Still need to tile.

I started working on a prototype of my projector box. Still trying to figure out a few things, like the best way to mount it so I can take it (or the projector) down easily.

I used 1/2 inch plywood I had. It seems to work well, it's strong enough and still pretty light. I plan on angling the front similar to the cove, although I'm not sure at this point the angle is correct (or if it matters). I want the box to include the vent inside the box that's tied to an inline fan and thermostat in the box. If I square of the front of the box, the image would be obstructed unless I made a huge hole for the projector based on it's current mounted position. I'll probably build a hinged or removable front panel. Do you guys always put your lens cap on when not in use?
http://images5.fotki.com/v63/photos/6/649633/3052581/100_0560-vi.jpg
http://images4.fotki.com/v47/photos/6/649633/3052581/100_0559-vi.jpg
http://images16.fotki.com/v277/photos/6/649633/3052581/projectorboxfront-vi.jpg

I plan on cutting out the bottom of the box in the outlined area and building a panel that I can either velcro on or use grill guides. This would allow me to get to the controls, but more importantly, allow me to unmount the projector to clean the filter, etc.
http://images1.fotki.com/v291/photos/6/649633/3052581/100_0561-vi.jpg
http://images16.fotki.com/v279/photos/6/649633/3052581/projectorboxbottom-vi.jpg

On the back of the box itself, I'll is a Middle Atlantic rack vent panel to allow for air intake.
http://images16.fotki.com/v281/photos/6/649633/3052581/100_0562-vi.jpg

I want to be able to mount the box from underneath with a few screws into the bottom of the soffit. I'll add some more supports to do so. I think I've figured that out. I still need to pull the whole box apart after I've figure out the other parts and glue it up. I've just got some brads in it now keep it together. I'll paint the whole thing black and wrap it with GOM.

Bud

Here are the GOM samples side by side that I was considering, but I've pretty much decided to go with the Lido Style in Pine Valley (054). It's the center one, top row. I plan on one color, top and bottom with the beveled edge furring strips.
http://images2.fotki.com/v292/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0556-vi.jpg

Here's a close up of the Pine Valley, although the picture doesn't help its cause. Even with the lights and flash on, it's a tough shot. I guess that's good though, you want it dark!
http://images16.fotki.com/v282/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0557-vi.jpg

Bud

Bud,

I really like that "Lido Style in Pine Valley (054)" GOM fabric too -- great choice.

Also, I've very curious as to how your projector box will turn out. I wanted to do one in my room but because of my high 12' ceilings, it would not look good with a large pole holding a big box. One light at the end of the tunnel on this one is I may have found a projector that performs well and looks great too. It's the new InFocus DLP IN76 (http://www.infocus.com/Products/Projectors/IN76.aspx) (due out this or next month). It's all black, so matching that up with a black pole may be the ticket. MSRP is 3k but I'm hoping street will be around $2,500 or less.

http://swithey.gotdns.org/swithey/ht/misc/Infocus IN76.jpg

Steve, the box is 8" high. It's small enough where I can walk underneath it while standing on the riser, although not buy much. I'm 6'4". I probably could have gotten away with putting it on the back wall above the seats where no one would hit it, but I figured that would restrict my projector option in the future. I plan on using the fabricmate track around the projector so if I ever had to I could move things around easily. I should be able to have the box done and mounted this week for a trial run.

Neat looking projector, BTW.

Bud

Steve, the box is 8" high. It's small enough where I can walk underneath it while standing on the riser, although not buy much. I'm 6'4". I probably could have gotten away with putting it on the back wall above the seats where no one would hit it, but I figured that would restrict my projector option in the future. I plan on using the fabricmate track around the projector so if I ever had to I could move things around easily. I should be able to have the box done and mounted this week for a trial run.

Neat looking projector, BTW.

Bud
Bud,

Thanks for the explanation. I look forward to seeing it in production :)

Harmony 880 came today. I did the inital setup and tested it, seems to work OK. Playing with the IR543Ah stuff now. A little getting used to. I don't have my IR stuff hooked up at this point, I wanted to paint the inside of my equipment closet first. I guess I'll try and get that done this week.

Bud

Hey Robert,

I ordered 21 yards of the black for the front wall and soffits. I think I'll need 34 yards of the wall material. I probably won't do any material in the concession area, I'll just try and match up the color and paint it. If I have any left off, maybe I'll get creative with it.

When you mention control type units, are you referring to home automation controllers? If that's the case, my experience has only been with the HAI Omnipro II, but there cheaper alternatives, I'm sure.

I've done a few basements. I've also done some "home theater" type installs and setups, but this is my first full blown dedicated room.

Bud
Is there a reason you chose black GoM over speaker cloth (especially w/bang for buck of the latter)?

Now a suggestion... It'd probably be a cheaper option, and provide better airflow, to use a similarly-sized return HVAC vent (painted black) on the back of the hushbox instead of a middle atlantic rack vent.

Bud,
What color are you going to paint the inside of your equipment closet? I was thinking black for mine, but I'm not sure I really need it THAT dark.

Tim,

The black GOM was primarily for the look. Sure the GOM is more expensive than the speaker cloth, but it' just personal preference. Not sure what speaker cloth goes for, but the 408 was 250.00 for 21 yards. Not bad really. That's the whole front wall and underneath all the soffits.

Good idea on the return vent. The MA vent I was thinking of using (picture) wasn't as high as I had wanted, so I was going to get another anyway. Gives me a little more access room.

Bud

Bud,
What color are you going to paint the inside of your equipment closet? I was thinking black for mine, but I'm not sure I really need it THAT dark.
Steve,

Well, I was thinking black as well, but I think it'll be too dark. I do have a light in the closet though. My rack is in the concession area and turned sideways, so having it white would be much easier.

I guess the answer is no clue! Maybe I'll do the walls black and the ceiling white?!?

Bud

Hey Bud,

What was the width of the black GOM? I thought I heard it came in 66" width. Does the place you got GOM from have a fixed price on shipping or *free* shipping on orders over X dollar amounts?

Jason

Tim,

The black GOM was primarily for the look. Sure the GOM is more expensive than the speaker cloth, but it' just personal preference. Not sure what speaker cloth goes for, but the 408 was 250.00 for 21 yards. Not bad really. That's the whole front wall and underneath all the soffits.

Good idea on the return vent. The MA vent I was thinking of using (picture) wasn't as high as I had wanted, so I was going to get another anyway. Gives me a little more access room.

Bud

Jason,

Correct, 66 inches. I think I paid shipping, I ordered over the phone and they sent me a confirmation with just the final costs. Got it through Fabricmate. The fabric comes from NC and the track is being shipped from CA. I probably played two shipping costs actually ....

Bud

That's what I figured about the GoM.. sounds good. Speaker cloth at PE is like $7/yard, so no big deal I guess, especially if you like the look.

As for the equipment closet, I guess it depends whether you want to hide the cables more and give a more finished look (unless you have custom front plates that completely hide the inside of the room). If you don't have the custom front plates and could see in the front, I'd paint it black. It's probably a rare occasion that you need to modify cables (except initially), and you should be able to find enough light for those occasions if the light you installed doesn't work well enough.

Hey Tim, thanks for the reply.

I expect that I won't use the custom plates at first. May be something I use over time. I'll use blanks and vents since I don't want big open gaps. I have the 5-43, so lots of room, although it'll go quick once I can get to the HTPC, XBOX 360 or PS3, drawers, etc. I also have cables organizers for the rack so it won't look like a rats nest. I'm leaning towards the black though.

Bud

Bud - late to the party here, I know but I'm noticing you didn't use treated lumber for your stage (I searched your thread but didn't find reference to this - sorry if I missed it). Does the asphalt paper negate the requirement for this? I know the code in my area requires PT lumber if its less than 1 1/2" off the concrete.

As you know, I'm currently working on the part of my stage that will have sand in it. I used PT lumber because of the concrete contact (although, I'm on roofing felt too) but also because of the sand. I figure the sand will absorb moisture in the air and trap it long enough to possibly cause a rot problem with the wood that is in contact with the sand.

Anyway, did you look into any of this? I'd love for someone to give me a good reason to not use PT lumber for the rest of my stage. 10' PT 2x10s are a b#$@#.

Hey Eric,

Not sure about the specific code in my area, no, but I did see somewhere else here that the inspector passed a riser with regular lumber because the roofing felt prevented the lumber from touching the concrete. Pretty common here on the construction threads to do it this way. I didn't want the extra expense of PT. I did notice you did both PT and roofing felt.

Interesting thought on the sand. I'm sure there is some moisture. If you're filling the cavity and the cavity is sealed top and bottom with caulk/roofing felt/construction adhesive and drywall, there can't be too much moisture to absorb. Depends on the basement, area and the inital sand/water content I would assume. Some people line each cavity with plastic. I thought this was to prevent leakage and help cleanup if the stage was removed. My sand was extremely dry. I was very surprised. Not going back now!

Bud

Bud and Ebr,

I'll chime in with my .02 and let you guys know that my builder actually put 2 layers of plastic down under the concrete foundation which negates the use of presure treated lumber for the stage. Code in my area still requires the builders to use presure treated lumber around the foundation line but regular wood on roofing felt definately passes code in GA with the plastic vapor barrier under the concrete or so I have been told. Bud - I would be surprised if your builder didn't put down plastic also. It is pretty common in the newer homes around our area.

Jason,

Yeah, they used plastic. I actually have photos of the plastic prior to the basement floor being poured. Just never knew the code.

Bud

First impressions on the 880...

There are a few quirks that I'm working through. Initial setup is straight forward through the web site. There are some unintuitive web site navigations once you start fine tuning. It works fine with the all my components and the IR543AH, although for brightening and dimming certain lights, you have to send multiple "Bright" or "Dim" commands. I'm able to hit "Watch a DVD" and all the components turn on, get configured to the right inputs, turn off the lights, etc. I'm having issues getting commands to my PCS SMST6 Scene controller though, even though it supports it, so working through that.

Bud

Bud,

Quick question for you about your proscenium. Are you going to use furring strips on the proscenium or are you going to attach the fabric directly to the 2x4's? I am thinking through the seems and can't think of a way to have nice seems without using furring strips. Have you given this much thought?

Jason

Jason,

Going to attach directly and/or wrap them around the 2x4 and staple from behind where it makes sense. I still need to build grills will probably go with the magnetic grill guides (mentioned a ways back). Between the grills, screen and crown, I should be able to hide every all the staples (I think).

Bud

Hmmm... I have the vapor barrior under the slab as well. I imagine with that and the roofing felt that normal lumber would be okay as far as real life is concerned. I'm still not sure about the inspector, however.

When they first built my riser, they used regular lumber and my builder made them rip it out and re-do it with PT because he said it had to be that way. I guess I'll have to do some digging around the NC building code and see what I find. It would be great to not have to deal with PT for the rest of the stage, but I sure don't want to have to do it twice...

Bud,

That is what I wanted to do too but you and I will have the same problem with either a seam in the middle of the Proscenium running up and down or running left to right. I am thinking I will use a thin piece of rigid cardboard (width of a penny or less) in the center and staple it down with fabric underneth and then cover the cardboard and run it to the end and around the side of the proscenium - see image.

http://public.fotki.com/JikkJack/royal_fortune/seam.html

I will repeat this process on the other side.

This way would yeild a seam of the smallest and hopefully most discreat look. The only problem with this would be the cardboard would run in front of the center channel. Running it left to right would be getting in the way of the L&R speakers...What do you think? Too bad they don't make GOM in 9 foot width... :rolleyes:

Jason

Jason,

I think we have a little different situation. Let me explain. Check out this mocked up picture that I did of the screenwall with my GOM layout.

http://images4.fotki.com/v45/photos/6/649633/3018602/ScreenwallGOM1-vi.jpg

I'm going to run mine horizontally. The actual height above the sub sections is actually 66 inches (well, its like 66.5 inches, but I can cheat a little since I'm going to install crown around the top). This was not planned, BTW, I just lucked out. :rolleyes:

Anyway, yellow represents GOM sections that will be stapled. Red represents panels that I'll build and use grill guides, magnets (likely) and/or velcro.

Section "A" is a no brainer. Staple along the top and sides, then cut out the area where the LR channels will go, leaving enough around the edges to wrap on the inside and staple to the back of the screen wall. Same for behind the screen.

Section "B" I should be able to wrap and staple as well, although I may need an extra support to hide the staples. I think I have that figured out.

Section "D" where it meets section "B" I may have to do what you described. You use cardboard or that stuff they use for furniture upholstery (tack strips?) to give you the clean edge. You won't notice it much if at all. Can't use one piece for "B" and "D" because of the angle.

Section "C" are all the individual panels that will hide staples and seams remaining and still allow me to get to channels.

Make sense?

Bud

BTW, good timing, Jason. Black GOM just arrived. Now I really need to go to Sherman Willaims and get my ceiling paint.

http://images4.fotki.com/v41/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0570-vi.jpg

Bud

Hey Bud,

Ok. I gotcha. I think you actually just gave me my solution as well. I like the idea of removable speaker grills but I think I will end up using furring strips so that the grills are flush with the rest of the screen wall. Thanks for the discussion and idea!

Jason

Section "A" is a no brainer. Staple along the top and sides, then cut out the area where the LR channels will go, leaving enough around the edges to wrap on the inside and staple to the back of the screen wall. Same for behind the screen.
I realize you're going to use crown at the top, but how about the sides? Will the "C" panels touch the side walls? (In which case you don't need that thin 2" or so strip near the side walls).

Can't use one piece for "B" and "D" because of the angle.

Actually, you could.. You could take a piece for "D" and continue some material at a 45 degree angle (or whatever the angle is in the "D" trapezoid), and extend it at that angle for the length/height of "B". You could then efficiently use the fabric for the other side by flipping the pattern upside down.

I realize you're going to use crown at the top, but how about the sides? Will the "C" panels touch the side walls? (In which case you don't need that thin 2" or so strip near the side walls).

Actually, you could.. You could take a piece for "D" and continue some material at a 45 degree angle (or whatever the angle is in the "D" trapezoid), and extend it at that angle for the length/height of "B". You could then efficiently use the fabric for the other side by flipping the pattern upside down.

Crown will go around the perimeter of the room. The "C" panels won't go all the way to the crown, probably short of it a little, and will touch the wall. So technically, you're correct, I don't need to do the pieces on the wall. Planning on something like this:

http://images16.fotki.com/v274/photos/6/649633/3018602/Magnetdraw-vi.jpg
Where one side will slip in behind the piece on the wall and the other will be magnetically secured on the side closer to the screen.

Gotcha on the trapezoid. I'll have to play with a scrap piece. Good thinking.

Bud

Just FYI - here is the response I got from the county inspector on the treated wood issue:


You should use treated wood. Even though you are not in direct contact with the concrete there could be a possibility that condensation could form under the wood between it and the concrete thus causing the untreated wood to decay.

Well, I think I heard about 10,000 people just grunted simultaneously....

I'm not sure if the statement means the condensation is between the roofing felt and concrete or between the roofing felt the wood. I assume the latter. PT is always safe in this situation, obviously.

Bud

I like that idea of slipping the grill in the slot and having only one side being magnetically sealed.

Regarding the treated wood, I think it may be different for an attached wall (bottom plate attached to the concrete, such as a proscenium), but a riser or stage (assuming you're not attaching it to anything) shouldn't apply as far as I've been taught. It's just a big heavy piece of furniture. I suppose you couldn't get away with it if you were running electrical to it, though. Although I've heard of some people running electrical up to that point, and then building more into the riser and running it back sort of as an extension cord to an outlet near an equipment rack or something.

Of course, I'm not a building inspector either. But it's important to mention that it's a removable item if that is indeed the case, since that may change the rules.

If it really is required, I'd probably take the route of lifting the stage and/or riser off the floor by using two PT 2x4s and building joists on top of them.

Section "D" where it meets section "B" I may have to do what you described. You use cardboard or that stuff they use for furniture upholstery (tack strips?) to give you the clean edge. You won't notice it much if at all. Can't use one piece for "B" and "D" because of the angle.

Bud

To get the clean edge I tried it using the thin tack strips. I bought $50, 3 rolls of the stuff. Did not work worth beans. I found it much easer to work with cardboard drywall shims. The are about an inch plus wide, four feet long and 1/16 th thick. They were a little expensive. But in the end looked better, straighter, and easer to use.

Greg,

Thanks. Cardboard drywall shims? Where do I find these puppies? Never seen them before (never looked for them really).

Bud

Greg,

Thanks. Cardboard drywall shims? Where do I find these puppies? Never seen them before (never looked for them really).

Bud

I Found them at Lowes.

In the attached photo the drywall shim is at the top. They come in packs of 20 or so for nine bucks.

I've used the cardboard drywall shems as well. They work great. I keep a bundle on hand all the time now. They come in handy for a lot of uses. I've picked them up at Home depot, but the quality varies a lot in my area. If your HD or Lowes has shems that seem to flimsy, try a drywall supply dealer. Attached is a picture of two shems balanced on my hand. The flimsy one is from the most recent batch that I got at HD. The other one is from a drywall supply dealer.

Cool. Thanks guys! I'll check out the stores this weekend.

Bud

BTW, good timing, Jason. Black GOM just arrived. Now I reall need to go to Sherman Willaims and get my ceiling paint.

http://images4.fotki.com/v41/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0570-vi.jpg

Bud


Bud,

Did you know you have a black bear in your house? :)

Ha!

He's the bigger of the two. And boy does he eat alot! Here is one of my favorite pictures, taken about 4-4.5 years ago. That's my son with "Gunner". Gives you a good idea of how big he is.

Justin (left) and Gunner (http://public.fotki.com/bketterl/our_german_shepherd_dogs/dcp_819.html)

Bud

LOL, why did you mention the position (left) of your son in the picture? Did you think we would have a hard time figuring that one out? :D

Ronnie

LOL! Well, I know a few kids named Gunner, but I guess not too many dogs named Justin!

Bud

LOL, why did you mention the position (left) of your son in the picture? Did you think we would have a hard time figuring that one out? :D

Ronnie
I think he did it to avoid a comment like that :D LOL!

Looks like all Justin needs is a saddle.

OK guys...

Ran down to Sherwin Williams during lunch and picked up a few paint colors for the ceiling. I quickly threw them up in the ceiling. I could do black as well, but figured since the underside of the soffits will be black, this will give it more contrast.

The first picture is all the lights in the theater on. The second is with only the rope light on half way. Tough to get a good shot.

Here are the ceiling colors.

1. Danube - 6803
2. Jacaranda - 6802 (reminds me of Milano Blue, but not as purply)
3. Georgian Bay - 6509
4. Blue Plate - 6796

http://images4.fotki.com/v48/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0576-vi.jpg
http://images6.fotki.com/v77/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0578-vi.jpg

What do you guys think?

Bud

OK guys...

Ran down to Sherman Williams during lunch and picked up a few paint colors for the ceiling. I quickly threw them up in the ceiling. I could do black as well, but figured since the underside of the soffits will be black, this will give it more contrast.

The first picture is all the lights in the theater on. The second is with only the rope light on half way. Thought to get a good shot.

Here are the ceiling colors.

1. Danube - 6803
2. Jacaranda - 6802 (reminds me of Milano Blue, but not as purply)
3. Georgian Bay - 6509
4. Blue Plate - 6796

http://images4.fotki.com/v48/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0576-vi.jpg
http://images6.fotki.com/v77/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0578-vi.jpg

What do you guys think?

Bud
Bud, can you retake the pics with the GOM wall fabrics you've selected next to paint samples. Might make it easier to make a match since the lights will be on some of the time :)

I think you theater is going to be much fancier than mine :D Other than that...I like #3. I personally doing mine in black, but I don't have the soffit issue. Keep it up....

OK, here are a few more pictures. Color swatches are in the same order, top to bottom though.

1. Danube - 6803
2. Jacaranda - 6802
3. Georgian Bay - 6509
4. Blue Plate - 6796 (pretty sure this one is out).

http://images4.fotki.com/v41/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0586-vi.jpg
http://images3.fotki.com/v34/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0585-vi.jpg
http://images4.fotki.com/v48/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0584-vi.jpg

I could start a new thread with a poll...

Bud

Bud,

Having the fabric up there helps a lot!

My vote is for #3 (Georgian Bay - 6509) also :)

Bud,

Georgian Bay all the way!!!

One of my favorite parts of the world so I may be a bit biased, but Georgian Bay for sure.

Again Georgian Bay.

Well, lets see. Georgian Bay, 8. Other colors 1. Hmmm. the only other person that picked a color different than Georgian Bay was my four year old. Today, she had a cast put on her arm (broke a bone on Sunday) and we all thought she'd pick pink or purple. Well ...

http://images1.fotki.com/v291/photos/6/649633/2497580/100_0583-vi.jpg

So, at the moment, Georgian Bay is the winner, hands down. Any others?

Bud

Another one for number 3, and i did not peek at everyone choice before I picked. Number 3 just poped out at me!

Another for Georgian Bay. The color swatch doesn't do the actual paint color justice.

Georgian Bay gets my vote as well.

Well I was going to say #4 Blue Plate. But hey what do I know -- I'm half color-blind. :)

My Vote is for Georgian Bay. Looks the classiest. My 2 cents. Nice Choices btw.

My vote is also for number 3.

I was gonna say #1, but I have a color deficiency.... not totally color blind. They are all blue to me..... just different shades. The Georgian Bay would of been my 2nd choice.

Im going to be different and say go with Georgian Bay - 6509
:D

Thats a nice color scheme.

Ronnie

Bud,

I told you using child labor was a bad idea! Hanging drywall should be left for children of at least 6 years of age.

I hope DEFACS doesn't slow your progress!

Ben

Hey Bud,

If you are trying to achieve the consistency of matching color to fabric and make the trey look the same color as the walls then #3 - but if you are looking to break things up a bit and give a nice 3 color decorum, then I would pick #1 or #4.

My .02

Jason

Bud,

I told you using child labor was a bad idea! Hanging drywall should be left for children of at least 6 years of age.
Ben
I guess I should have waited until she was 5 before raising the drywall stilts another two feet. Oh well, live and learn.

Bud

Hey Bud,

If you are trying to achieve the consistency of matching color to fabric and make the trey look the same color as the walls then #3 - but if you are looking to break things up a bit and give a nice 3 color decorum, then I would pick #1 or #4.
Jason,

Was trying to get a color that would work as a night sky sort of effect and match the fabric to some extent so it didn't just look odd or out of place.

Bud

All,

Thanks for the responses. Georgian Bay seems to be the winner. I think I'll run out today and get a gallon and some primer.

BTW, if anyone is interested in this fabric, it also comes in a few other colors as well. One sample I got is called Heartland, which is a tannish color that is very cool.

All the Lido colors can be seen at SilentSource (http://www.silentsource.com/gom_lido.html).

Bud

Bud,

Love the color scheme. Can't wait to see pics with ceiling done and fabric up!

sdspga

sdspga,

Thanks. I can't wait either!

Bud

Hmmm...night sky...stars...ok - when are you going to announce the fiber optic ceiling? :D That would look sweet with your set-up.

Jason

I think I'm gonna pass on the star ceiling. For a HT room, fiber is the way to go. I've just got too much going on these days and think I'll consider that a "future tweak" at some point. The fact that I have cans (no good places for symetrical sconces) sort of sealed that fate.

Bud

Fabricmate track just arrived. I also just returned from Sherman Williams with the paint and primer.

Bud

Bud,

Did you order the materials directly from fabricmate?

billmac

Bill,

Sure did. Just give them a call if you need anything.

Bud

I think I'm gonna pass on the star ceiling. For a HT room, fiber is the way to go. I've just got too much going on these days and think I'll consider that a "future tweak" at some point. The fact that I have cans (no good places for symetrical sconces) sort of sealed that fate.

Bud


Bud, I have a similar issue with my existing cans and air supplies. I was thinking about making some extensions for the light cans and vents so they would be flush with the star ceiling. I figure with the spacing on the fiber between stars, I should have plenty of room without it looking like its missing something.

Ronnie

One coat of primer on the ceiling. I also used the same primer in the equipment closet. I decided to to go black in there.

http://images4.fotki.com/v39/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0589-vi.jpg

I'll put the first coat of Georgian Bay on in the AM.

Bud

Bud, I have a similar issue with my existing cans and air supplies. I was thinking about making some extensions for the light cans and vents so they would be flush with the star ceiling. I figure with the spacing on the fiber between stars, I should have plenty of room without it looking like its missing something.

Ronnie

Ronnie

Well, that would have been the smart thing to do. I was hot and cold with doing it, I should been prepared for it.

Also, I picked up these insulation supports. They're metal wire, 16 inches long. I figured I would attempt to bend them and make my own T pins. 100 in a box for about 7 dollars. I'll let you know how that works out.

Bud

Ronnie


Also, I picked up these insulation holders. They're metal wire, 16 inches long. I figured I would attempt to bend them and make my own T pins. 100 in a box for about 7 dollars. I'll let you know how that works out.

Bud

Cool, can you throw up a pic of the hangers? Hopefully my local guy will have some 5.5 cotton in stock next week. Im ready to button up the stage.

Ronnie

Keep on chugging man. Getting closer every day.

Cool, can you throw up a pic of the hangers?

Ronnie,

I think these will work out great. They're pretty stiff actually. Needed pliers to bend them. Got them at Lowes.

http://images16.fotki.com/v285/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0590-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v295/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0591-vi.jpg

Bud

Nice job. Never thought of that. I've used those in ceilings before though. You're right, they're pretty tough.

First coat of Georgian Bay is complete. It is very dark. With the main cans on, it looks dark grey. With the rope light on, it looks a lot lighter. Unfortunately, with the rope light on, I can really see the roller marks and some small inperfections in the drywall. Soooo, I'll be working on touching up the drywall this afternoon after my sons game and I guess I'll have to spray the ceiling. I have a sprayer, just didn't want to pull it out just yet.

Bud

Nice job. Never thought of that. I've used those in ceilings before though. You're right, they're pretty tough.

Bryan,

Thanks. I looked into long "T" pins and anything over 4 inches were pretty expensive. I think this will work out great.

Bud

About the roller marks, just think..... if you did a star ceiling you wouldn't have to worry about. :D The paint should look good. Curious, if you have a sprayer why didn't you just use it from the start?

About the star ceiling, I think I'm definitely doing it. Can't wait! Should have my first inspection in a couple weeks. Feels like I've been saying that for months!

Jerrod,

It's a pain in the ass to clean. Especially for an area that's like 9x10....

Bud

Bud - on the roller marks - use a large knap roller and a LOT of paint. That should do it.

I had a real hard time on my last room with the ceiling and roller marks and it took 3 coats and the above technique to get it right. Good luck.

Eric,

Thanks. Will give it a shot tomorrow.

Bud

I went ahead last night and fixed my ceiling defects in preparation for another coat of Georgian Bay.

http://images16.fotki.com/v278/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0592-vi.jpg

Here's what it looks like with the second coat with the main cans on. The flash really brightens it up. It looks almost black without the flash. Although it looks good in this picture, you can still see roller marks with the rope light on, just not nearly as bad. I may just bite the bullet and spray it.

http://images17.fotki.com/v297/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0593-vi.jpg

I also primed my concession area, so hopefully that will be done this week.

Bud

Well Bud...if it makes you feel anybetter the picture doesnt show any roller marks :D

Seriously though...looks good, love the color.

Robert

Would like to see it with the rope lights on...seems like you can get so many different effects with different shades of paint and Id like to see how that color reacts. Thats close to a color I have been looking at to use below a starfield ceiling to just the top of the soffet....so I was wondering how the rope light would react off of it...looks good though

Robert

Robert,

With the flash on, it really looks great in the picture. Here's a shot with only the rope light on. I really like the color, but it's definitely a different look with the rope light on all the way. I little purply on the ceiling, but blue on the sides. If I put the rope light on about 30%, I don't see the roller marks. Also, the rope light is in the corner. I played today with pulling it out towards the front of the trey some and it gives it a different glow. I was also thinking about putting some flashing or foil up there to see how that affects the light. I also need to get the rope light track as well.

http://images17.fotki.com/v293/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0595-vi.jpg

Bud

Bud,

you can still see roller marks with the rope light on, just not nearly as bad. I may just bite the bullet and spray it.

Not to insult your intelligence, but I got a great tip from the paint guy at HD a few years ago on eliminating roller marks. Work one 4'x4' area at a time. Start in the corner and do the square, then do the same area directly underneath it. (I know you're doing the ceiling, so whatever you want to call "underneath"), then when you have done an entire 4' section of the ceiling from side to side, take the roller and run it the length of what you just painted. Do this for the whole ceiling keeping a wet edge and it really works good on the roller marks.

thanks for all the updates!

sdspga

Dark flat colors are just a bugger. I'd try another coat and follow the advice about the wet edge and a deep nap roller. I did 4 coats on my black ceiling to finally get everything to look smooth and even.

Bryan

Bud,
Not to insult your intelligence, but I got a great tip from the paint guy at HD a few years ago on eliminating roller marks. Work one 4'x4' area at a time. Start in the corner and do the square, then do the same area directly underneath it. (I know you're doing the ceiling, so whatever you want to call "underneath"), then when you have done an entire 4' section of the ceiling from side to side, take the roller and run it the length of what you just painted. Do this for the whole ceiling keeping a wet edge and it really works good on the roller marks.

thanks for all the updates!

sdspgaInsult! Insult! I'd take any advice right now.

Actually what I did was do a small section, then worked my way around the perimeter, then did the center. I did this figuring the rope light would show where I stopped towards the center. I figured if I made long enough strokes away from the center, then the marks would be far enough towards the middle the light would no show them. I think the ones I saw towards the front I went back and touched up. Argh!

Bud

Dark flat colors are just a bugger.

You're not kiddin'!

Bud

Just ordered 15 sections of 4 foot tracks for 1/2 inch rope light from NoveltyLights.com (https://ssl.adhost.com/noveltylights/merchant.cfm?pid=49&step=4). One less thing to do on my list.

Bud

Its looking good Bud. I cant see roller marks in the pics either. If it gets to tough to cover them up, you might have to switch to the star ceiling ;)

I picked up my rope light track at Home Depot. They have 8' strips for around $6 each. I just posted some pics of it on my thread.

On those T-Hangers you made, do you plan on just pushing them into the sheetrock and leaving them? Are they stiff enough to hammer into the studs?

Ronnie

Thanks Ronnie. Saw your riser. Looks great with the veneer and rope light! The stuff I got was 2.00 for 4 feet. Either way, it's cheap. At least the stuff you got has the tape.

I was going to just stick them in the sheet rock, I figured enough of them would do the trick. I think if you put then in a stud, it would have to be shallow. I would expect they would bent trying to get them in the studs too far.

Bud

These hangers you guys are talking about are just used to hold the insulation to the wall right...I guess I have never seen them in action so I am a little confused on what thier purpose is.

Love the rope lighting effect on the section just below the ceiling..i was thinking of doing the star ceiling and painting that part just below it that color or close..now that I see the effect your has I am certain I will go with something similar when it comes time. Would be nice to see how a reflective surface makes it look. If you experiment with that please post some pics as well.

Lookin good Bud

Robert,

Correct on the insulation supports (pseudo T pins I made). There are sections of acoustical cotton that need to be on the wall behind the speakers in my case that need to be attached. The T pins I found that were big enough were just too expensive, so I just made my own.

Bud

Bud- Love the ceiling! I did not have to deal with rope lights "accentuating" the ceiling like you have to but two coats of Georgian Bay seemed to do the trick for me. I just used the "M technique" when painting and walked it from side to side with the best roller they had. I would not get too worked up over slight imperfections. I know there were a couple of spots that I obsessed over at first but when I moved onto another part of the project and went back and looked for them- I could barely even find them. Also, I noticed with the Georgian Bay that the finish evens out more the longer it sits and dries. Looking good...

Hey Doug,

Well you should, since you're the one that got me on the whole Georgian Bay thing to start with! In regular light, it just looks dark. No roller marks or anything. It's only with the rope lights on. Maybe I'll try and get a close up shot.

Thanks for chiming in.

Bud

Hey Bud,

Some things I do that eliminate roller marks.

1. Prime and paint with a 1/2" nap roller Purdey Brand. 5 bucks but worth every penny and it is thicker for flat paints.
2. When applying paint - make a 4'x4' box and after rolling the entire box - go back and try to make light long strokes looking for what I call heavy edges. Since the edge of the paint roller tends to have an angle - it also tends to put extra paint on the ceiling at the edges and you can use light long strokes to knock that down.
3. when you completely finish painting - grab a new dry cheap roller (usually sold in 6 packs) and using a flashlight - look for wet spots on the ceiling starting at the begining of your painting job and use the dry roller to lightly roll over particularly wet spots to help even out the paint coat.

Hope this helps. It works for me but is by no means professional advice.

I have 2 areas in my theater room that I need to go back and add more mud to help even out some uneven areas too. You have to love how the darker colors highlight the imperfections in the mudding and taping of drywall. :rolleyes:

Jason

Hey Jason,

Thanks for the tips. I guess this is cureable!

Bud

A few more shots from the weekend. This is my concession area and equipment closet primed. I'm going black in the closet (no need to worry much about roller marks there) and going to use a color called "Blonde" in the concession area. It's like a light goldish color. I was going to try and match the greenish grey in the fabric, but it makes that area too dark. I ordered my new door over the weekend, so I'll be a separate space completely now.

Concession area from the theater room. The storage area will have a solid pine door installed after I paint. http://images1.fotki.com/v291/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0601-vi.jpg

Looking back from the storage room through the concession area. Equipment closet/rack on left side.
http://images17.fotki.com/v293/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0602-vi.jpg

Looking through the rack area back through the closet. This is the tinted primer I used on the ceiling in the theater room. I'll be painting it black shortly.
http://images1.fotki.com/v290/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0600-vi.jpg

Another shot of the ceiling. The colors remind me of this earth shot. Pretty neat.
http://images17.fotki.com/v294/photos/6/649633/3018602/ropelights-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v293/photos/6/649633/3018602/earth-vi.jpg

Bud

I think I've made a decision on this, but I figured I'd throw this out for comments and opinions. I had planned to do the Lido fabric the same, both top and bottom of the "chair rail". I actually beveled the furring edges and I think I figured out the technique to install the GOM above and below without a formal chair rail. I was thinking what it would look like to do black GOM on the bottom and the Lido on the top. Because the room is just about 12 feet wide, I think using black on the bottom will be too much. With the dark ceiling and black screenwall/soffit, adding the extra black will make the room seem smaller (at least with the lights on). If the Lido on both top and bottom is too much, I can always break it up and add the chair rail later.

Comments? Here's a couple of shots of the two together.
http://images1.fotki.com/v290/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0604-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v293/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0605-vi.jpg

Bud

Here is something I did in my own rope light trays. If you want them to kick out a little more light or make the lighting a little more even, put something reflective below them. Some people use aluminum foil. I used the aluminum duct tape. It costs maybe $5 for a roll and stays in place since it's sticky on one side. Just an option you might want to try while it's still early.

Toxarch,

Good thought. I actually have some already, I'll do some experimenting. Thanks for the reply.

Bud

Ran downstairs during lunch today and painted the inside of the equipment closet black. Although not ideal, I had a quart of flat black Rustoleum and used that. I've got some roll marks, but don't care much since it's in the closet. Man, I hate oil based paints.

First shot with concession lights on and no flash, looking through the rack area. Pretty dark!
http://images16.fotki.com/v283/photos/6/649633/3055203/100_0606-vi.jpg

With flash on:
http://images17.fotki.com/v294/photos/6/649633/3055203/100_0607-vi.jpg

Bud

I know its a closet and wont get much viewing time, but have you thought about changing those receptacles out for some black ones? Then again, maybe it makes it easier to find them if they are white.

Ronnie

I have, while I was painting it actually. I'll see what happens once the rack is in. It could be a phase two thing.

Bud

I was thinking what it would look like to do black GOM on the bottom and the Lido on the top. Because the room is just about 12 feet wide, I think using black on the bottom will be too much. With the dark ceiling and black screenwall/soffit, adding the extra black will make the room seem smaller (at least with the lights on). If the Lido on both top and bottom is too much, I can always break it up and add the chair rail later.

Bud,

I agree. That would be pretty dark given the dimensions. You want your room to feel like you're going to the theater, not spelunking......Everything is looking great, AND you have the advantage of being probably the only person whose equipment closet will never rust :)

sdspga

sdspga,

LOL. Good thing huh? You never know when drywall will start rusting these days. Between that and the greenboard I used on the outside, I should be all set for those wet days.

Bud

Bud,
This is a simply amazing thread. I've finally read through from start to current. Many of the terms I've been reading on this site are finally starting to make sense. I built a house a couple years ago and set aside a 13.5 x 22.5 room for HT. I will finally be starting construction this fall when I get back from Iraq.

I'm really excited to see your finished product. Keep up the great work!

Bud,
This is a simply amazing thread. I've finally read through from start to current. Many of the terms I've been reading on this site are finally starting to make sense. I built a house a couple years ago and set aside a 13.5 x 22.5 room for HT. I will finally be starting construction this fall when I get back from Iraq.

I'm really excited to see your finished product. Keep up the great work!

lektern,

Well thanks! Glad its helped.

Are you in Iraq now? In the military? One of my brother-in-laws is a Marine and was there for the initial invasion. He's back now, thankfully. Be careful over there and stay safe.

Bud

Bud,
This is a simply amazing thread. I've finally read through from start to current. Many of the terms I've been reading on this site are finally starting to make sense. I built a house a couple years ago and set aside a 13.5 x 22.5 room for HT. I will finally be starting construction this fall when I get back from Iraq.

I'm really excited to see your finished product. Keep up the great work!


Where in Iraq? I am in Iraq also and unfortunatly...like you it is keeping me from beginning on my build as well. However I am sure that once we get started it will be well worth the wait. Good luck and stay safe....

Robert

<Thread Hijacked>We're stationed just inside the border of Kuwait. We do convoy security throughout the country of Iraq. I've been almost everywhere there is to be. Got another five months before I can start in on the HT. </Thread Unhijacked>

Robert and lektern,

Both of you guys stay safe!!!

Just so you guys know, we appreciate what you do. Its guys like you that allow guys like us do the things we do. Hopefully you guys will be home soon.

Bud

One coat of paint on the ceiling in the concession area is now done. Will do another coat today during lunch. I'll try and put a coat of paint on the walls in the concession area tonight as well. If I can get two coats on the walls this week, I can get the doors on and move back to the HT full time.

I don't think I have enough Georgian Bay for a third coat, so I need to pick up another can this week. I picked up some Purdy rollers last night as well. The guy at the Depot told me to use 3/8", but I bought more 1/2" anyway. :rolleyes:

Bud

Forgot to mention this the other day. Neither the local Lowes or HD carried drywall shims. I picked up some insulation rulers (those this that attach to the rafters so they can measure the amount of insulation blown in), which will work in a pinch. I need to try and find a local drywall store (I'll look online as well).

Bud

One coat of paint on the ceiling in the concession area is now done. Will do another coat today during lunch.
Ahhh, the joys of working from home. Unfortunately in my line of work, that would not be possible. However, if I did work from home, I don't think I would get any "work" work done because the HT would constantly pull me away (along with the wife and kids) :D Bud, don't know how you stay so focused (on work that is)?

Steve,

The kids aren't here during the day, at least, not until the summer. We'll have someone here full time watching them starting in June. My wife is a work-a-holic and she also works out of the house. She spends her entire day upstairs in her office (I'm on the main level), except for lunch and most of the time she misses that. It's like being here alone most of the time.

I also work a lot of odd hours since my development projects use outsourced resources all over the globe. I'm usually working and checking email by 6:30 AM (had a call with China this morning) and I'm usually instant messaging with people during the evening hours elsewhere. People probably have noticed my all hours posts. I only sleep about 6 hours most nights anyway.

It's like you have no standard work schedule, life and work just blend together, especially in this house. :o

Bud

Bud,
The room is looking nice. There is a drywall store on my side of town that has been prety helpful. it's Tucker Materials. I can PM the number if you need.

Willaim

Hey Sportac,

Thanks. It should start making some good strides over the next couple of weeks. I'll keep that in mind. I'll see if I can find something in Marietta.

Bud

Second coat of white ceiling paint in the concession area is complete. Will start working on the walls tonight.

Bud

<Thread Hijacked>We're stationed just inside the border of Kuwait. We do convoy security throughout the country of Iraq. I've been almost everywhere there is to be. Got another five months before I can start in on the HT. </Thread Unhijacked>


replied to your message...stay safe bud and keep up the good work!!

Robert

Robert and lektern,

Both of you guys stay safe!!!

Just so you guys know, we appreciate what you do. Its guys like you that allow guys like us do the things we do. Hopefully you guys will be home soon.

Bud


(bongggggggg) We interupt this program to bring you a temporary bit of sappyness....if your prone to choking up....look away for a moment...


Bud,

I appreciate the kind words but Ill pass your appreciation to me on to lektern. He is the one who really deserves it, he is a soldier and is the one who is providing you the peace and freedom to do the things you do...not me. I am here by choice he isnt, except to say he chose to defend his country (which is no small sacrifice I must say). Im a civilian contractor and here for the money this time....ex Army though...been here done this before ;) So as much as I appreciate it and thank you for your concern and appreciation...its better spent on someone who really deserves it....lektern!!

(bonggggggggg) We now return you to your regularly scheduled thread.
Thank you :D

Robert

Sounds like your making some good progress there Bud...look forward to keeping up with it.

I am a little lost on this drywall shim thing...I hate to ask the obvious question but ....

What are they used for? I know that sounds bad but damned if I know...guess I have never seen one. I have put up a fair amount of drywall over the years as my family is in the rehab and rental business but I guess I just missed them along the line somewhere.

Thanks..Robert

That's Mr. Sappy to you and I so appreciate what these guys do. I have enough family that was in the military to know better.

Apparently (I have not used these before) you put them on the stud prior to drywall if you have a bow in the stud. At least that's what they're made for. I would use them under the GOM for those areas where you can't hide a staple on an edge. You put the GOM to the area, put the cardboard/shim on top, then staple it and pull the GOM back over the shim. Gives you a nice clean, finished edge. I'll post a picture when I get to that point. Hope it helps.

Bud

That's Mr. Sappy to you and I so appreciate what these guys do. I have enough family that was in the military to know better.


Apparently (I have not used these before) you put them on the stud prior to drywall if you have a bow in the stud. At least that's what they're made for. I would use them under the GOM for those areas where you can't hide a staple on an edge. You put the GOM to the area, put the cardboard/shim on top, then staple it and pull the GOM back over the shim. Gives you a nice clean, finished edge. I'll post a picture when I get to that point. Hope it helps.


Bud

LOL...I didnt mean you were being sappy...I meant what I was about to say was sappy...sappy but true!! I believe those that earn the praise should darn well get it!! I am the only one in my family (dating back many generations) that spent time in the military and deployed to combat but I (as well as my family) are right there with you Bud on your line of thinking, we appreciate thier service as well!! ...just call us the Sappy twins ;)


That would be great...I probably havent put up as much drywall as you (since your kinda in the business) but I just havent seen these shims or even heard of them til now. Would love to see them put to use....especially on the tough edge/GOM application (cant quite picture how to finish it off once the GOM is pulled back over top the shim). Thats ok though I am sure once I see your pics I will get it.

Keep up the good work....

Robert

No sooner than I posted that reply I think I pictured the corner thing...

Staple the GOM on the corner/edge with the shim on top, fold over the shim and run the fabric to the next edge that you can hide the staples on and staple it there....Is that right?

I hate that when I feel like a dummy and as soon as I ask a question the answer comes to me...lol

Robert

Exactly. Here's a thread or four that describes the GOM processes. I'll be going back through these shortly. There is a few pictures of the sequence somewhere, just haven't found it yet.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=381979
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=577426
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=535806
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=519111

Bud

One coat of Sherwin Williams "Blonde - 6128" in the concession area. When it's dry, I'll go back and touch up the wall defects with a little mud, sand and throw another coat up. It's like a goldish/beige color, like wheat beer. The pictures don't quite look like the room. Oh well. Boy is that equipment closet dark! Gotta like that Rustoleum! Also, once I figure out the stain, I can start working on the crown in the room, but that'll be after GOM.

http://images16.fotki.com/v3/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0614-vi.jpg
http://images1.fotki.com/v291/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0615-vi.jpg

Bud

You can do the fabric without the shims/cardboard and make it look better using a different method. I might have mentioed it in one of those threads. Leave the firring strip out where you want to have a clean look. Staple the GoM to either the side of the firring strip or to the back of the firring strip. After the fabric is attached to the firring strip, then install the firring strip on the wall and stretch the fabric like you want it. You never have to worry about the cardboard or shims failing under the fabric. I know I posted drawings in one thread somewhere that shows how to do it in a corner so that you have a single seam in the corner with no staples showing and no need for trim. You just have to hide the fabric ends and staples between two firring strips. I'll see if I can find the thread for you tomorrow so that you have an option when you get to your fabric.

I agree, Tox - using the furring makes a better (and easier) edge. But, I think this whole "shim" option came up because Bud had a place where he was going to have no furring...

Looking great Bud, keep it up. Where did you do your IR Retransmitter research and Remote lighting research?
I think I saw you ordered the Yamaha RXV2600, how do you like it?
I'm also looking at the Ascend 340's for front and center. Thinking about the HTM-200s for middle and rear.

Thanks everyone for the appreciation. It makes it much easier to be here knowing people appreciate the great things we're accomplishing here.

Tox,

Eric is correct. I'm actually planning on using the technique you describe for the corners, although since I beveled the edges of the furring strips, it may be a a little different where the pieces meet. I'll figure it out. The area that I was thinking of the cardboard/shim was right where the sub sections meet the side walls. I may just put a small furring strip in there to solve that problem.

Thanks for the replies.

Bud

Where did you do your IR Retransmitter research and Remote lighting research?
I think I saw you ordered the Yamaha RXV2600, how do you like it?
I'm also looking at the Ascend 340's for front and center. Thinking about the HTM-200s for middle and rear.


Thanks. I researched it here on AVS. I was a little biased with X10 since I have it already in my house. The Graphic Eye is nice, but a little expensive. Turns out it probably would have been cheaper for me anyway after all the dimmers and extras I bought. I'm considering now replacing my PCS SMST6 scene controller with an Insteon one. I'm still digging into that some, but will post when I know whats up. The IR stuff is pretty common on AVS. Now that I've got my equipment closet painted, I can finish out that stuff as well.

You'll love the Ascends. Great speakers for the money. I really enjoy mine. I like my 2600. Some people have had issues with it, but so far, so good. I went with it versus the 2500 because of the HDMI switching. There were some initial setup quirks I had to figure out, but got through it.

Bud

Need another opinion. I want to order the trims for the cans. For the stage and riser, I'll use 4" trims with black baffles. For the concession area, 6 inch trims with white baffles. Not sure what to do with a ceiling that's Georgian Bay. I don't want white for sure, but should I just get black trim and baffles or buy white and paint them Georgian Blue? I want to order them in the next day or so. Thanks.

Bud

Need another opinion. I want to order the trims for the cans. For the stage and riser, I'll use 4" trims with black baffles. For the concession area, 6 inch trims with white baffles. Not sure what to do with a ceiling that's Georgian Bay. I don't want white for sure, but should I just get black trim and baffles or buy white and paint them Georgian Blue? I want to order them in the next day or so. Thanks.

Bud
I vote to paint them GB to blend in with the ceiling.

Thanks Steve.

What about GB trim and black baffles? Not sure I'd go this route, just another option.

Bud

Thanks Steve.

What about GB trim and black baffles? Not sure I'd go this route, just another option.

Bud
I think the black baffles would look great. You also have to consider the heat generated by the bulb. I do not think if you painted the baffles with GB, that it would stand up too well -- bubbling, etc.

Thanks Steve.

What about GB trim and black baffles? Not sure I'd go this route, just another option.

Bud

That's the way I would go. In fact, its the way I'm going to go. I will have black baffles but will paint the trim my ceiling color.

I expect that these cans will be only on once in a while. I have it set up to do a scene when you enter the theater room and includes all of the accent lighting, not the main cans. I'll probably only use the for vacuuming. Good point about the heat though.

Bud

Hey Bud - on the Insteon controller/keypad, I think you have some of these anyway so you may know about this, but I've heard the lighting for the buttons is quite bright. Too bright for something like a dedicated theater room.

I have four of them, but they're just sitting in a box waiting for the house to get to electrical trim out stage so I can't verify this myself yet.

Eric,

Was looking at the user guide for one model and I think you can dim the button lights. Let me double check. My other controller could as well. The problem with the SMST6 I have is that now is it only works remotely, you can't send it X10 commands. It only transmits them. So for it to work with the harmony 880, I have to point at the stupid thing. I don't really feel like sticking an emitter on it either. The controller is located by the door between the 1st and 2nd rows, so it may not be too bad.

Bud

Again, I haven't actually seen it myself, but the person who complained about this said the two brightness settings were "bright" and "unbelievably bright" :).

Just something to be aware of. Let us know what you think if you try it out.

Eric, take a look at page 24 of the User Guide (PDF) (http://www.smarthome.com/manuals/2486d.pdf) for the Insteon KeypadLinc V2 Dimmer (http://www.smarthome.com/2486d.html). Not sure if what he has is the same.

Bud

Just saw you other post about two settings. User guide confirms that. I was thinking you could change out the labels on the buttons with a darker color. Hmmm. I may just get one and try it out.

Bud

Bud,

I bought white trim/baffles for mine (didn't even know they came in black) and painted them black. They are not on much so have no problem with paint overheating. If you aren't going to be generating too much heat, I would vote for painting both GB as they will blend in great. Mine are much, much better since painting the same color as the ceiling. Too bad I didn't have any of that black Rustoleum when I painted :)

Scott

gents -
May I reccomend black (charcoal/gas) grill paint. High temp tolerance and usually flat black.
I have from this monday when the fixtures arrive until the following monday when the electrician comes to get all of mine painted. Shouldn't take more than a day to paint all 9 and get them ready for install.

Kevin -

Good evening Bud. Have you had a chance to test out those insulation hangers yet?

Also, my experience with the BBQ paint is that it turns out more grey than black. At least the two that I tried out. I think you should paint the cans with the GB paint and install the black trims.

Ronnie

Ronnie,

Have not yet. Still have my bass traps queued up on my list. I should get to it this weekend though hopefully.

Bud

like the color Bud. It is coming along nice. Myself i am finishing the rest of the basement. I think I will be going with sherwin williams paint also. They had a home show this past weekend in st. louis. sherwin williams had a good deisplay wall of color that caught my eye. I will be sticking to one pallet of color and use 4 different colors on the pallet.

larryep

Hey Larry,

I decided I needed to wrap up the theater and concession area first. We have some relatives coming into town in mid April and would like to get it done and show it off. The rest of the basement is on hold until I get it done. The only thing for me is the flooring and carpet, that may have to wait. I might just run out of time before they arrive. I'm also going to get very busy with work in the next few weeks, so I'll be busy trying to get it done before it gets pushed out all together.

I really like Sherwin Williams paint. I've used Duron, Porter, Behr, Ralph Lauren, but so far I like the Sherwin Williams paint the best.

Bud

glad to hear the good use of sherwin williams paint. I will be stopping by a store today for more pallet of color samples. You never realized how close to a store is until you need to go to it. Sherwin Williams store is just 3 miles away and I never new it was there. :cool:

Just FYI - Duron and SW are now the same. I always liked SW too (better than Duron) but the best paint I've come across is Benjamin Moore. You pay for it though...

Hey Larry,

I decided I needed to wrap up the theater and concession area first. We have some relatives coming into town in mid April and would like to get it done and show it off. The rest of the basement is on hold until I get it done. The only thing for me is the flooring and carpet, that may have to wait. I might just run out of time before they arrive. I'm also going to get very busy with work in the next few weeks, so I'll be busy trying to get it done before it gets pushed out all together.

I really like Sherwin Williams paint. I've used Duron, Porter, Behr, Ralph Lauren, but so far I like the Sherwin Williams paint the best.

Bud


Good news for us thread lurkers....not to mention you get more wow factor showing off a first class home theater than you do the rest of the basement....
EVERYONE LOVES A GOOD MOVIE!!

Robert

I went ahead and ordered my can trims for the HT room and concession area. I think I'll do the GB trims with black baffles. Worst case is I can try them out later. I also ordered bulbs online! Never did that before. Seemed to be pretty cheaper and I bought them by the case, so I'll have a few extras when I need them. I just hope they don't arrive broken.

Called Smarthome about the Insteon switch, but the hold wait was 15 minutes, so I left a message and hopefully someone will call me back.

Bud

Picked up another can of Georgian Bay today. I also put up the second coat of Blonde in the concession area. Tomorrow AM, I'll do the third coat (and hopefully last) on the ceiling in the HT room. I'll go ahead and install the two doors in the concession area that I have and get them in, then move over to the base traps (hopefully) before the baseball game. I'm hoping I can start the black fabric on the soffits on Sunday morning. The wife has a shower in the early afternoon, so I'll be watching the kids Sunday afternoon.

Bud

...The wife has a shower in the early afternoon, so I'll be watching the kids Sunday afternoon.

Bud

C'mon Bud, don't let that stop you!

Put the kids to work...

http://www.reedsplace.com/Theater/New%20Theater/Construction/P1291945.jpg

(handiwork of my son - age 4 at the time)

Hey Bud, have you tested out your fabric yet to see if you can see that bright foil scrim through it?

In my last two rooms you could see the difference between poly batting and linacoustic behind the fabric so I had to cover the whole thing with cheap, thin, black fabric to make it look uniform.

Hey Bud, have you tested out your fabric yet to see if you can see that bright foil scrim through it?

In my last two rooms you could see the difference between poly batting and linacoustic behind the fabric so I had to cover the whole thing with cheap, thin, black fabric to make it look uniform.


EBR, Where you using GOM? If not, what type of fabric where you using?



EDIT: Nevermind, I see that you DID use GOM (a very light color). I guess I should look around before I post questions. :rolleyes:

Ronnie

Thanks Steve.

What about GB trim and black baffles? Not sure I'd go this route, just another option.

Bud

that is the way I would go. I found a great price for black inside, white ceiling trim (that will be painted to match the ceiling) on the grEatest BArgain site todaY online.

Just search for this: Indoor Recessed Light Trim RXTM-603B Lighting Trims

Gary

Just FYI - the same deals can be found on the USALight site directly - and they have a lot of options. I bought some of my cans from them and they have good service. I found out that they were electronic transformers and my GE would require an interface to dim them. Since the interface cost more than a whole new set of 4" cans I returned the low voltage ones. Thing is, it was like three months later and they gladly took them back.

The prices on those trims actually scare me a little bit though as the Halo ones at Lowes cost over three times as much. Gary, please let us know when you get yours if they seem to be of good quality. Thanks.

Sure, I'll gladly be the guinea pig. I'll buy one and if they are good, I'll buy more...

Gary

Hey Bud, have you tested out your fabric yet to see if you can see that bright foil scrim through it?

Have not yet. It does hide the drywall portions though. If I have to, I'll spray paint it!

Bud

I guess Bud just got the kids to bed... :)

(me too)

that is the way I would go. I found a great price for black inside, white ceiling trim (that will be painted to match the ceiling) on the grEatest BArgain site todaY online.

GaryI actually ordered all the trims for the 4" cans, the concession area and the rest of the HT room through the Lighting, Fixtures, and Ceiling Fan store (http://www.lighting-fixtures-ceiling-fans.com/). It's where I got my 4" cans. Reasonable prices. I even ordered a few cases of bulbs for the whole basement. They ended up to be about half of what I would have paid at Home Depot. Hopefully all that arrive this week.

Bud

I guess Bud just got the kids to bed... :)

(me too)

Actually they're still up, bathed and PJed, but going any minute. ;) I had few spare mintues..

Bud

OK, this is what I got done this weekend.

Yesterday I applied what I hope to be the last coat on the ceiling in the HT room. I have not put the rope light back up, so not sure how the roller marks stand. Hung the door to the storage room and hung the door to the equipment closet. Both doors I had to pull a hinge off and mortise it out since it didn't sit right or close right. Pain in the butt. Put the ceiling vent back on in the concession area.

Today, I GOMed the front soffit, left and right soffits and a third of the large soffit. I used a combination of furring strips and used the Fabricmate track in strategic spots. worked well. I decided to just GOM over my in-ceiling surrounds. I thought through it and decided if required, I can go back and do the panel thing. Looks pretty clean as is.

Pictures to come, just a little tired to drag my ass downstairs again.

Bud

Hey Bud.
I feel your pain regarding painting the ceiling with flat paint.
I just finished Friday.
What a PITA.
2 gallons of Benjamin Moore 18% Kodak grey, dead flat.

It actually looks fine now unless there’s a bright light shining parallel to the ceiling.
Initially I thought I had a disaster on my hands.

If I may, one tip and one caveat on painting can light trims.
My metal 4” trims had white rings and black baffles.

I painted the rings to match the ceiling.
Initially I tried doing it with my 40+ plus year old naked eyes.
Not good.
I set up my lighted, 5x magnified “hobby lamp”. What a life saver.
I used a small foam brush.

The caveat:
Be very careful handling the painted trims as a stray fingernail will scratch the new paint and require touchup.
The end effect is very nice and IMO worth the effort.
Hey what’s one more extra “effort” after about 300 of them? :D

C'mon Bud, don't let that stop you!

Put the kids to work...

http://www.reedsplace.com/Theater/New%20Theater/Construction/P1291945.jpg

(handiwork of my son - age 4 at the time)

Right back at you, pal....

http://images1.fotki.com/v290/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0668-vi.jpg

Bud

Here are the doors I installed on Saturday. Still need to stain them (stain everything), install casing, crown, and base.

http://images12.fotki.com/v237/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0667-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v294/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0666-vi.jpg

Bud

Here are some shots of the Black GOM installed. I had the 1000W halogens on to take the picture, it's pretty dark, to the point where you can't really see much blue on the ceiling unless the rope light is on.

It wasn't bad at all, if you have the right tools and think it through a little. I also used some of the fabricmate track under the soffits, which works out great really. It's expensive, but for a few areas, its not bad. BTW, the quote GOM as being 66 inches. I assume that means 66 usable inches. It's closer to 70 inches, but has a white edge on both sides.

http://images17.fotki.com/v295/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0648-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v297/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0626-vi.jpg
http://images8.fotki.com/v139/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0628-vi.jpg
http://images1.fotki.com/v291/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0664-vi.jpg

You'll notice that I did not do around the projector. I need to finish out the projector box still. Once I have that done, I'll mount it then install the fabricate track around the perimeter of it, then install the GOM. I wanted to use the fabricmate tracking in case I ever had to get int he ceiling, move or switch the projector, etc. Gives me some flexibility.

Bud

I was wondering what you decided on the projector box. please post pics when you are done. Thx

Here are a few "how I did GOM" shots.

First thing I did was to lay down some craft paper (Home Depot, like 9.00 for a roll). I put it down because even sweeping a million times, I know there is still drywall dust and other stuff on the ground. I wanted to make sure the GOM wasn't going to get all dirty. Used painters tape to tape the seams. I also took my shoes off so I could walk on it.
http://images17.fotki.com/v296/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0634-vi.jpg

I glued up all the fabricmate tracking with construction adhesive and drywall screws. I used fabricmate tracks where two seams met on the soffit. The track comes in 5 foot lengths, but you can butt pieces together easier. In the second shot you can see where I did this. This was under the soffit by the projector.
http://images17.fotki.com/v293/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0631-1-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v295/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0632-vi.jpg

You need the right tools. I picked this stapler up on ebay for about 45.00. I'm using 1" staples. Also, you need really good scissors. I used a pair my wife had for material. I think they're Fiscars or something. I also used a silver Sharpie to draw lines in the material. Works well against the black. Works great on Linacoustic as well.
http://images17.fotki.com/v294/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0636-vi.jpg
http://images2.fotki.com/v292/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0635-vi.jpg

After cutting the material to length, I would temporarily put the fabric up with push pins. I'd line a bunch of push pins on the the linacoustic right below the area I was doing. I'd start in the corner (or the middle if working not on a corner) and start putting putting in push pins.
http://images2.fotki.com/v292/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0637-vi.jpg
http://images1.fotki.com/v290/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0638-vi.jpg

I'd then start putting in staples starting again in the corner and working my way down the wall (again, if doing a piece not in the corner, it's probably best to start in the middle and go one way or the other. Prior to starting the adjacent wall, I would temporarily pull the GOM and push it in the track on the opposite side, so there is no sags. I would assume if you're not using track, you would use push pins or a few staples just to hold it. I would work my way down the wall, pulling out the push pins and pulling the GOM towards the wall to keep it taunt. I would then do the adjacent wall using the same method, stapling as I go, pulling out the pins. Once I get to the track, I started in the same direction as I did the first wall, pushing the fabric into the track using a putty knife. This pulls the GOM pretty tight. On the end where the trey is, I just temporarily pulled it and tacked in with push pins in place.
http://images12.fotki.com/v204/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0650-vi.jpg
http://images1.fotki.com/v291/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0639-vi.jpg

After pushing the fabric into the track the whole way, there is some excess still. I carefully cut along a line and leave about half an inch extra. The track is 1" deep, so that leave about 1 1/2 inches or material for the track. I just then push all the extra fabric once trimmed into the track.
http://images1.fotki.com/v291/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0642-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v295/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0644-vi.jpg

At this point, most of the material is now up. Now I need to tie it into the other seam and finish out the corner of the trey. I trimmed off the extra material where the corner of the soffit is, ensuring that I do leave enough and not cutting too much off. The extra now is at the seam where the side soffit begins. I start pushing that side into the shared seam. One I have enough pushed into the track, I trim the excess again, leaving about 1/2 inch. From there, I push that extra into the track and have a nice butted seam.
http://images17.fotki.com/v293/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0653-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v293/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0654-vi.jpg
http://images2.fotki.com/v292/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0655-vi.jpg

Now I need to tackle the corner of the trey. I used these cardboard insulation rulers I found, although drywall shims were recommended to me and are probably choice. I left enough material to wrap (fold over) the cardboard shim and work it into the corner. It left a decent line, probably could have been better with drywall shims though. I then temporarily pulled the GOM tight up in the soffit, which puts tensions on the folded over area. I then switched out my stapler for my brad nailer and used 1" brads in the corner to firm up the cardboard strips and hold the material down. I then made user there were no wrinkles by working the material sideways while at the same time pulling the GOM up over the soffit and stapling there. Done!
http://images16.fotki.com/v3/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0657-vi.jpg
http://images1.fotki.com/v290/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0658-vi.jpg
http://images16.fotki.com/v3/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0660-vi.jpg
http://images6.fotki.com/v86/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0661-vi.jpg

I had to go back and trim out the 4" can at this point, so I went felt around for it, then decided to just turn on the damn light. Stapled around the perimeter, then cut it out with a razor knife and cleaned it up with scissors. I plan on using Ronnie's technique to cover the staples and trim it out.
http://images1.fotki.com/v290/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0670-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v296/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0671-1-vi.jpg

Here's what the crown will look like (granted this is not stained, or even stain grade crown) once installed.
http://images2.fotki.com/v292/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0652-vi.jpg

Bud

Hey Bud.
I feel your pain regarding painting the ceiling with flat paint.
I just finished Friday.
What a PITA.
2 gallons of Benjamin Moore 18% Kodak grey, dead flat.

It actually looks fine now unless there’s a bright light shining parallel to the ceiling.
Initially I thought I had a disaster on my hands.

If I may, one tip and one caveat on painting can light trims.
My metal 4” trims had white rings and black baffles.

I painted the rings to match the ceiling.
Initially I tried doing it with my 40+ plus year old naked eyes.
Not good.
I set up my lighted, 5x magnified “hobby lamp”. What a life saver.
I used a small foam brush.

The caveat:
Be very careful handling the painted trims as a stray fingernail will scratch the new paint and require touchup.
The end effect is very nice and IMO worth the effort.
Hey what’s one more extra “effort” after about 300 of them? :D

Thanks Milt, will keep that in mind!

Bud

I was wondering what you decided on the projector box. please post pics when you are done. Thx

Will do.

Bud

Tracks for the rope light arrived.
http://images1.fotki.com/v290/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0673-vi.jpg

Bud

VERY NICE. Looking great Bud!!

Jason

VERY NICE. Looking great Bud!!

Jason

Thanks dude. Gettin' there....

Bud

Bud,

What style of the fabricmate track did you use? I need to build 2 panels to attach around my frame where my speakers will be and am trying to figure out what style of the track will work the best. Thanks.

Barhoram,

I used the 1" FS-150. (http://www.fabricmate.com/inchedgepros.htm) Works great. They have a beveled edge version as well.

Bud

BUd

That blue ceiling really looks great next to that black GOM and you did a really good job with the GOM too.....looks awsome!!

Robert

Thanks Robert.

You don't really notice the blue unless the rope light is on. I played around with metallic tape some under the rope light, didn't make much of a difference. What mattered was how far away the rope light was from the wall. If you pull it away from the wall, it looks light blue on the sides and top. If its against the wall, you get dark blue on the sides and light blue on top. Haven't made a decision yet which way to go. I'll need to get the tracking up this week.

The GOM wasn't bad really. The GOM has some stretch to it, enough to pull out wrinkles and stuff. I'm not sure I bought enough black GOM to do the screen wall, I'll find out in the next day or two and order it with the wall fabric.

Bud

http://images6.fotki.com/v86/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0661-vi.jpg
Bud,

Does the ceiling color look darker in person? I ran the "night sky" ceiling color by my wife yesterday and she liked the idea.

Also, I may spray my ceiling just to avoid roller marks (maybe :rolleyes: ). Maybe I can get away with (2) coats and call it a day.

BTW -- great job on the GOM application.

Steve,

Thanks.

That's the color, but the color you see in the GOM photos has 1000W (literally) shown on it. Without the rope lights on and the main cans on, it looks almost black with a hint of blue. With the rope lights on, the center looks grey with light blue/dark blue around the edges. It's very dark and most people wouldn't realize its blue without the rope light on.

Bud

Steve,

Took three more shots for you (pardon the blurriness).

The first is what I would call "pre-movie". Push a button on my controller and all the lights go on (minus the cans in the main ceiling and rope light on).
http://images1.fotki.com/v290/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0674-vi.jpg

The second is with the rope light off. I left the stage cans on or you'd be pretty dark. Notice the ceiling is hardly there at all ( I can see it in the original photo *barely*, but in this picture you can't really see it).
http://images1.fotki.com/v290/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0675-vi.jpg

Last is with main cans on, but again, no rope light. Whats interesting about this shot is you can see some blue around the perimeter, even without the rope light, but look how dark the ceiling looks.
http://images1.fotki.com/v290/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0676-vi.jpg

If you've seen the infamous Milano blue, it's the same effect, although brighter since it's a lighter blue. Looks like a dark grey middle with the rope light on, but light around the sides.

Hope this helps.

Bud

4 gallons of Sherwin Williams Georgian Bay - $120
21 yards of black GOM - $250
Having a theater as cool as Bud's - Priceless!

Bud,


Looking forward to the final push to the finish line before your company arrives. Theater is looking absolutely fantastic! Anxious for more AE-900 reviews when you are up and running. I have the 700 and want to know if an upgrade is in order. Keep on rolling!

Scott

Scott,

Thanks man. It's going to be a tight squeeze time-wise, but it'll be close... I'll keep the reviews in mind as well.

Bud

Bud,
I just wanted to say thank you for all your posts. I don't think you realize how much help this is for us. I have just started on my theater (received my cotton from Bryan yesterday!) and I have been using your thread as my reference book. Please know the extra hours you spend taking pictures, explaining procedures, and answering questions is not in vain!

Steve,

Another followup and another example of ceiling color.

These shots are from CaptainRandy's theater (www.cinemamurray.com) and he has the Milano Blue ceiling. As you can see, it's very light blue-purple color and towards the center, you see it greys out some with the rope lights on. When the lights are off, the ceiling turns completely grey. I wanted something a little darker.

http://homepage.mac.com/cptnrandy/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2003-05-11%2010.42.26%20-0700/Image-BA6451D983D611D7.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/cptnrandy/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2003-05-11%2010.42.26%20-0700/Image-BA645F7F83D611D7.jpg

Thanks for the images Randy!

Bud

Air2mag,

No sweat. I found when I started looking through AVS that there is so much material to review, that I wanted to post as much as possible when I did mine. I found those other threads that went into details with pictures and descriptions really helped as well. I just hope if there is something that is not clear or I missed that someone reading this thread would keep me honest and let me know. I do get a fair amount of PMs asking questions and I'm ok with that. If people would post to the thread, then someone else may have the same question. Either way is fine though!

There have been a lot of people here who have also questioned ideas that steered me in other directions and thats great. I don't know all this stuff, so its nice to get opinions, fresh thinking and another set of eyes on things. I appreciate all the comments. Hey, we're all here to learn and enjoy!

Thanks for the post.

Bud

I started the screen wall. Some of these pictures are DARK! I hope you guys can still make things out. Remember this? So far it's working out nicely.
http://images4.fotki.com/v45/photos/6/649633/3018602/ScreenwallGOM1-vi.jpg

First thing is first. I cut a section of GOM, rolled it up and put it aside for the last section around the projector. Then I took the screen off.

After I took the screen off, I laid out the fabric on the wall and use my trusty push pins to secure it. I left a few inches on the sides. I used the same technique, starting in the middle and worked in one direction, removing the push pins as I went, pulling the fabric taunt and putting in staples. You can barely make out the pins, they're clear
http://images6.fotki.com/v103/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0679-vi.jpg
http://images3.fotki.com/v24/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0680-vi.jpg

Next thing I did was put a few pins in the sides to hold the fabric taunt across the middle. I then proceeded to cut out the area behind the screen. I left a few inches all the way around the screen in order to use that slack to pull the GOM around the framing. I did the top and sides and left the bottom untouched initially.
http://images1.fotki.com/v290/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0681-vi.jpg
http://images17.fotki.com/v297/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0682-vi.jpg

I started stapling from the middle of the screen and wrapping the GOM under and around the framing and worked my way in one direction. When I got to the corner, I cut a 45 degree angle in the fabric to the corner, then finished stapling. I did the other direction, then moved to the sides and worked my way down. After completing both sides, I tacked down the bottom part of the screen so I could lay it out and cut the remaining GOM.
http://images3.fotki.com/v26/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0684-vi.jpg

I trimmed off the excess and put that aside. I stapled the the GOM onto the horizontal top of the framing and removed the pins as I went. Once it was secure to the top portion of the framing, I started to wrap the bottom portion of the GOM on the underneath side. I would make slits in the GOM where it hit a stud.
http://images17.fotki.com/v297/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0683-vi.jpg

Now the large area is done, I then repeated the process for the sections where the left and right channels will be located. These will be covered with panels. I did both sides and as before, I left a few extra inches where I cut it out, could wrap it, cut the corners at 45 degrees and stapled.
http://images3.fotki.com/v30/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0685-vi.jpg

Continued...

Look Ma, no seams!
http://images3.fotki.com/v27/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0688-vi.jpg

Next thing was to put the screen bracket back up. I had marked the bracket on center, remeasured the center and lined up the two marks. I then felt around for the existing bracket holes, put the screws in and leveled it.
http://images17.fotki.com/v294/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0689-vi.jpg

Finally I put the screen back up and centered it.
http://images17.fotki.com/v296/photos/6/649633/3018602/100_0691-vi.jpg

Next step for me is to build the panels and trim out the bottom.

Bud

Steve,

Another followup and another example of ceiling color.

These shots are from CaptainRandy's theater (www.cinemamurray.com) and he has the Milano Blue ceiling. As you can see, it's very light blue-purple color and towards the center, you see it greys out some with the rope lights on. When the lights are off, the ceiling turns completely grey. I wanted something a little darker.

http://homepage.mac.com/cptnrandy/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2003-05-11%2010.42.26%20-0700/Image-BA6451D983D611D7.jpg
http://homepage.mac.com/cptnrandy/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2003-05-11%2010.42.26%20-0700/Image-BA645F7F83D611D7.jpg

Thanks for the images Randy!

Bud
Bud,

Thanks for all the pics of the paint. I'll show them to the wife and see what she want to do.

BTW -- is your rope lighting white or amber? I was originally thinking amber/yellow but think white may be the way to go (since the white has a yellow hue to it anyway at dimmed levels).

Steve,

It's frosted white. If you go clear, it may not diffuse as evenly (so I'm told) , but no direct experience with it. Looks like Ronnie used clear around his riser and seems fine. Also, another thing to keep in mind about the "greying out" in the middle of the ceiling when using Milano or even Georgian Bay. When I saw Milano Blue at DEs place, the area of the ceiling was much wider than mu little 8x10 trey. If the area is more spread out, the darker the center will be. Also, it might make a difference how deep the trey is (mine turned out to be maybe 7-8 inches. If your rope light is close or farther from the ceiling, might be a different effect as well.

Bud

My trim and baffles arrived for the HT room and the concession area. I painted the 4" trims flat black with my trusty Rustoleum. Already applied the second coat. I'll do the Milt lamp test to try it out. I picked up one of those aerosol sprayers with the jar on it tonight and sprayed the four 6" trims GB. The sprayer requires latex paint to use a 3:1 ratio with water, so I went a ahead an gave it a shot. Looks OK, may need another coat or two. I'll give it another coat in the morning and see what happens. I may just use a foam brush as well if it doesn't work. Anybody use one of these things? I also installed the three white trim/baffles in the concession area. Bulbs shipped, not sure when they're arrive. I also need to extend the trim a little using Ronnie's technique.

AND last but not least, I ordered 33 yards of GOM for the walls today!

Bud

WOW. I have not had time to look at your thread for a few days because I am out of town. You have been very busy. Its starting to come together quite well.

Now I have to go home and catch up :D

Ronnie

Hey Bud,

I ran into you in Steve's threat and just want to say nice work on your room. I admire you guys starting from scratch. I have a pre-built room with my house, but now I am putting the finishing touches on it.

I look forward to watching your progress.

Randy

Hey Randy,

Thanks. In the home stretch now ... for the HT anyway.

Bud

WOW. I have not had time to look at your thread for a few days because I am out of town. You have been very busy. Its starting to come together quite well.

Now I have to go home and catch up :D

Ronnie

You snooze, you loose. ;) Still need to work on the traps, its on my short list. I'll keep you posted on the home made T pins. I'm hoping the GOM for the walls will be here before the end of the week, it ships out of NC.

What Dremel bit did you use to cut your rings? I have so many, not sure whats what. I was thinking of using a drywall bit.

Bud

Just got an email from Yvette at Fabricmate, looks like the wall fabric will be here by EOD on Friday!

Bud

Bud,
I like the way you decided to mount your projector. I am going to steal your design and try to incorporate my mounting system into my rear soffit. My question in on your air duct for the projector. Are you going to be sucking air away from the projector or blowing air to it? I have the Pany 700 and the air intake is on the side with the discharge on the front. ( I think the 900 is the same?) Since the back portion of my projector will be tucked away in the soffit, I was planning on mounting one end of a four inch air duct by the projector and running the other end out to the unfinished side of my basement. I would use one of the four inch inline fans to blow air to the projector. I will probably tie the fan's power into the projector control so they both come on at the same time. Do you think this will work?
Mike

Mike,

Sounds like what I'm doing actually.

The vent that you see in front of the projector is to pull the heat away from the projector. If you look behind the projector, you can see a thermostat that will kick on when required. This will be inclosed in the projector box. At the end of the 4" duct ia an inline fan that dumps out in my workshop.

The AE900 vents from fropm the front corner, in my case, since its ceiling mounted, it's the left side. Table or shelf mounted, it'll be the right side. The intake is from the back corner on the same side as the exhaust.

The projector box, when complete, will be used really to hide the projector, versus trying to "hush" it. I want to make sure it has plenty of room and ventilation. I just don't want to see it hanging there. I'm thinking about a new design for the projector box that will allow me to mount it under the soffit, but the sides will be hinged to allow me to get to everything easily. Still thinking through it.

Bud

My extra door arrived!

I'll probably run over tomorrow to Home Depot to get it, some double sided tape for the rope light tracks, some biscuits and some lumber to build the panels for the front screen wall.

Bud

Steve,

It's frosted white. If you go clear, it may not diffuse as evenly (so I'm told) , but no direct experience with it. Looks like Ronnie used clear around his riser and seems fine. Also, another thing to keep in mind about the "greying out" in the middle of the ceiling when using Milano or even Georgian Bay. When I saw Milano Blue at DEs place, the area of the ceiling was much wider than mu little 8x10 trey. If the area is more spread out, the darker the center will be. Also, it might make a difference how deep the trey is (mine turned out to be maybe 7-8 inches. If your rope light is close or farther from the ceiling, might be a different effect as well.

Bud
Bud,

Did you get your frosted rope lighting from HD or over the Internet? If over the Internet, where?

Bud,

Did you get your frosted rope lighting from HD or over the Internet? If over the Internet, where?

I bought it from Noveltylights.com. I bought the 150 roll. I have extra is I have any problems, plus I use it in the tents outdoors on the deck when we have parties and movie nights.

http://noveltylights.com/Rope_light2.htm

Bud

Bud,
I just starting "GOMing".
Much thanks for the construction paper tip & push pin tips.
Simple, cheap and effective.

Nice job on the screen wall, BTW.
You are truly in the home stretch!

I hope you don't mind me sharing a tip on cutting GOM.
A woman at worked recommended an Olfa fabric cutter.
It's like a small pizza cutter but razor sharp.
Makes extremely clean cuts.