What did the latest firmware upgrade for the 9630 improve?

How about a list of what you did other than the standard download? Can you guide us through some of the customizations that you implemented (what buttons control what and when)?

sorry it took me so long to get back to you guys...well basically other than the standard device adds(plasma,receiver,dvd,climate control,ipod dock station) obviously I set them up as activities(play dvd,watch dvr,watch tv,etc) all the inputs on tv and receiver auto set, basic stuff. I added my favorite channels with the channel logos that I got from www.squareworld.com/harmony I changed the background on the remote to something I liked better. added various images for the slideshow. the 8 "soft" buttons on near the lcd, for all my activies I have dedicated buttons for ambilight ON/off, aspect ratio(even thought I have it set the aspect ratio depending on what activity) PIP On/OFF PIP channel. for the dvr SA 8300 I have the A,B,C keys added up there. Climate control is cool, I had to contact technical support so they could give me the codes, but its nice to not have to get up to change the air conditioning. I thought about hooking my xbox up and controlling that, but have yet to do it. If I can think of anything else I will pass it along. let me know what you guys did. Ive been reading on the forums that people have had a lot of problems with their base not charging, mine seems to work perfect... but I do have issues with the tilt sensor inside the remote. Mine doesnt seem to work very well, I have to shake the **** out of the remote to get the light to turn on. granted there is that glow button. Ive read that the newest software update might have something to do with it, but not certain yet. later guys

What did the latest firmware upgrade for the 9630 improve?


BX23U-1.6.0.0_03541
Following problems are solved:
• Non-active digital antenna channels lost when cable is disconnected.

The link for this firmware update can be found here:

http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/...t=Link_Software

BX23U-1.6.0.0_03541
Following problems are solved:
• Non-active digital antenna channels lost when cable is disconnected.

The link for this firmware update can be found here:

http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/...t=Link_Software

What good does it do me if Im using DirecTV satellite?

What good does it do me if Im using DirecTV satellite?

I think when they say 'cable' they mean cable or satellite or FiOS or whatever. ;)

got a random question on the tv, been going great for months now but i have a problem. I recently moved into a new house, same area, and tried to reprogram to see if I could get any extra channels. I have regular coax into the tv cable. My problem is that I lost my 3 hd channels! They worked fine before the reprogram in this house at 704, 705, and 709. Then I reprogram and my highest channel changes to 135. Is there any way to force a channel? This has me really frustrated, i just enter the channel and then after a moment the numbers disappear

got a random question on the tv, been going great for months now but i have a problem. I recently moved into a new house, same area, and tried to reprogram to see if I could get any extra channels. I have regular coax into the tv cable. My problem is that I lost my 3 hd channels! They worked fine before the reprogram in this house at 704, 705, and 709. Then I reprogram and my highest channel changes to 135. Is there any way to force a channel? This has me really frustrated, i just enter the channel and then after a moment the numbers disappear

You mean OTA channels (free channels) via the cable that you got without a STB, right?

You re-autoprogrammed ?

You should have the same channels, I presume these are OTA HD channels for the local stations, right? In my area, they are decimiled -- "2.1" (CBS), "4.1/4.2/4/4" (NBC, NBC Weather, NBC News) and the 700's only show up via the STB.

You should have them if you're in the same area, doesn't sound like a TV problem. :confused:

You mean OTA channels (free channels) via the cable that you got without a STB, right?

You re-autoprogrammed ?

You should have the same channels, I presume these are OTA HD channels for the local stations, right? In my area, they are decimiled -- "2.1" (CBS), "4.1/4.2/4/4" (NBC, NBC Weather, NBC News) and the 700's only show up via the STB.

You should have them if you're in the same area, doesn't sound like a TV problem. :confused:

unless hes talking qam, but I have no idea what those channel #'s are or what format they are in.

yeah, ota with no stb. I re autoprogrammed because I was hoping in my new location I might get fox also which I never had before. Its just weird because I know the channels exist but my tv cant find them. I would watch dave in hd almost every night before i stupidly tried to re-autoprogram. Thats why i was hoping I could force the tv to search the channel or something.

It might depend on what is plugged into the set...
Antenna plugged into it would give you one set of channels, then the coaxial cable directly from the cable company (not going through the STB) could give you different selection.

yeah, ota with no stb. I re autoprogrammed because I was hoping in my new location I might get fox also which I never had before. Its just weird because I know the channels exist but my tv cant find them. I would watch dave in hd almost every night before i stupidly tried to re-autoprogram. Thats why i was hoping I could force the tv to search the channel or something.

Sometimes channels get lost....it's the cable company, not the TV. Have you added any new firmware ? Done anything different in the routine?

How many digital and analog channels is the AUTOPROGRAM finding now compared to before -- did you note the numbers the last time (I always write them down, even though most of the digital ones are 'dead air' or empty space).

Also, if those OTA HD channels are for local affiliates, make sure they're not there under different numbers. When I use my STB all my HD channels are in the 700's but the local affiliates via the Philips QAM are coded with decimals: "2.1", "4.1", "5.1", etc -- and Channels 2, 4, and 5, etc, are still there (fuzzier SD versions of what I can see through the STB).

Strange -- HD via the QAM is as good as HD via the STB, but the SD via the QAM is very staticky (though the audio is louder, which I like).

yeah, when i autoprogram with a antennae i get the 2.1, 5.1 hd channels. But on cable my hd channels were all 700. I literally changed nothing else other than just reprogramming. I was watching 709 then though "hey, why dont i reprogram" then no more 709. I have the latest firmware and everything.
Edit: i got tired of messing with this so I went and upgraded to a stb, all fixed...

Yesterday our 42PF9630A/37 Philips started making a noise I can't describe, not loud but an insistent hiss punctuated by little snaps. The Ambi Lite then went out and came back at the same time as the screen developed black horizontal lines and lots of bright colored pixels.

There is a four inch wide black bar across the upper middle of the picture and on either side, above and below it, there are mirror image 1/4" black line groups bordered by smaller mirrored groups of thinner black lines.

You can still make out what is happening and the color is good where there is picture.

In looking on the Philips site to see what might have happened I find the Ambi lite recall. Would this be related to what is happening to our set? Is the arcing problem between capacitators in the Ambi lite recal capable of causing the problem we have?

Very specifically the 4" black line is actually 3.5" and starts 10 5/8" from the bottom of the screen. Above it there is one one of pixels OK then, I think, 3 black lines of pixels. There are 15 of these 3 pixel wide black lines with one pixel wide good picture between. Above this to the top of the screen there are one good pixel line followed by one bad.

Below the 3.5" black band there are different patterns of lines similar to those above it.

All the black lines actually have very faint picture in them if you look real close. All of the black areas of the picture and all the black lines have red, green and blue pixels flashing randomly.

Any insight or wild guess appreciated.

Not much to say really... but I just read this on HDTV magazine dot com
As with all Panasonic Plasma HDTV's, TH-42PZ700U owners are entitled to free membership in Panasonic's exclusive Plasma ConciergeTM toll-free customer support. The program, supported by Panasonic's award-winning Customer Call Center, offers members an exclusive range of important and unique features including live access to specialized Plasma TV consultants, a loaner program if a unit needs to be removed for repair, on-line chat capabilities, Priority Service Scheduling, and call staff that are empowered to resolve issues swiftly.

Are Pannys really THAT GOOD ?

Had my set 18 months and had problems in the beginning with crappy Customer Service... but still happy overall with the set

Not much to say really... but I just read this on HDTV magazine dot com


Are Pannys really THAT GOOD ?

Had my set 18 months and had problems in the beginning with crappy Customer Service... but still happy overall with the set

When you say your set, do you mean a Philips or a Panasonic?

My 42pf9630 was taken away from a service tech for 2 months. Horrible. At the time, the techs said that Philips didn't have enough staff to support tech calls, therefore they were on hold for up to an hour at one point.


On another note, I sold my Philips 42pf9630a and upgraded to a Panny 50PX75U. I must say I'm going to miss the auto stretch that the Philips has. The Panny forces you to manually change the aspect ratio.

On another note, I sold my Philips 42pf9630a and upgraded to a Panny 50PX75U. I must say I'm going to miss the auto stretch that the Philips has. The Panny forces you to manually change the aspect ratio.

You mean on every channel you turn to ? What do you mean 'manually' ???

You mean on every channel you turn to ? What do you mean 'manually' ???

Everytime you change the channel you have to change the aspect ratio to fill the screen when it goes to 4 x 3 content. No auto stretch like the Philips which senses black bars. This may be due to the cable box feeding a 1080i feed with aspect ratio 4x 3, although with the Philips, it didnt' matter.

Everytime you change the channel you have to change the aspect ratio to fill the screen when it goes to 4 x 3 content. No auto stretch like the Philips which senses black bars. This may be due to the cable box feeding a 1080i feed with aspect ratio 4x 3, although with the Philips, it didnt' matter.

What a PITA...I can't believe something like the Automatic function isn't standard on every HDTV.

Or Ambilight, for that matter.

Or why Philips isn't capitalizing on both to gain market share..... :D

When you say your set, do you mean a Philips or a Panasonic?
.....


I mean I have had the Philips 42PF9630/37A for 18 months... and love it. Guess I got a good one, not had problems since the CC tech guy eventually came out

I mean I have had the Philips 42PF9630/37A for 18 months... and love it. Guess I got a good one, not had problems since the CC tech guy eventually came out

The problem rate on the 9630/31's was drastically reduced from the 7000's series from a few years earlier. Outside of the BSOD, nothing glitch-wise that has been bad on either (except the occasional catastrophic failure, but that happens to all flat-panels).

BTW, for those of you who asked (I believe it was on this thread): I do hear a high-pitched electonic frequency that comes from my plasma. But you can only hear it when the TV is MUTED and my PC is off, too -- that's how low in both sound volume and frequency it is. I can make it out in the background when the TV is on, but it's not a separate staticky noise.

Nobody else has said they can hear it, you really need to put your head around the back of the plasma to hear it 'loudly.' In other words, when you have audio coming from the TV, you'd never hear it unless you can filter out the TV audio and listen for it (which, being a perfectionist who looks for trouble, I now can :D ). Bottom line, this is nothing.

If this is the worst I get from the TV for the next 5-7 years, sign me up...... ;)

How can I center my picture on my 9630 top to bottom , when Im in the automatic format? I know I can do it left to right with my remote arrows.

How can I center my picture on my 9630 top to bottom , when Im in the automatic format? I know I can do it left to right with my remote arrows.

Hit the directional toggle near the OK button, UP & DOWN and it should move it up and down a few notches in each direction. Just like moving it left-right.

I mean I have had the Philips 42PF9630/37A for 18 months... and love it. Guess I got a good one, not had problems since the CC tech guy eventually came out

It's hit or miss with these plasmas and flat-panels.....for some reason, the failure rate on big flat-panels, esp. plasmas, is much higher than that for PC-sized LCD monitors.

Happens to all models, though: just today, there's a Pioneer Smoke thread about a some motor or circuitry going on a Pioneer. If that happened on a Philips model we'd be hearing the usual stuff about how other models are perfect and Philips is pure junk. They all have problems, just some a bit more than others.

Glad you're enjoying your 9630. :)

Happens to all models, though: just today, there's a Pioneer Smoke thread about a some motor or circuitry going on a Pioneer. If that happened on a Philips model we'd be hearing the usual stuff about how other models are perfect and Philips is pure junk. They all have problems, just some a bit more than others.

Glad you're enjoying your 9630. :)
You are really stretching now, aren't you. That was a six year old Pioneer, hardly the same thing as a three month old Philips frying itself. :rolleyes:

I'm not sure if this has been posted before, but my friend is having big troubles with his 42PF9630A/37 Philips Plasma. While he is playing video games or just watching TV, it will just randomly lose half the screen. For example, the bottom half of the screen goes black. There's nothing he can do to fix it or prevent it. It just comes and goes. He says sometimes the black changes colors too. But it's becoming really annoying. He thinks he needs a new bulb or something, but he doesn't really have any good idea. I was thinking that maybe he should install the new firmware update off the website. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?

Thanks

I'm not sure if this has been posted before, but my friend is having big troubles with his 42PF9630A/37 Philips Plasma. While he is playing video games or just watching TV, it will just randomly lose half the screen. For example, the bottom half of the screen goes black. There's nothing he can do to fix it or prevent it. It just comes and goes. He says sometimes the black changes colors too. But it's becoming really annoying. He thinks he needs a new bulb or something, but he doesn't really have any good idea. I was thinking that maybe he should install the new firmware update off the website. Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this?

Thanks

Welcome your friend to the black screen of death club (BSOD). Hopefully, he is still in warranty. If so, call for service before the warranty expires, it will not go away. If not, join the ever growing group of people that have had to bitch directly to the US president of Philips. :rolleyes:

does BSOD affect half the screen like my friend, or is that for the entire screen?

Also, I justed did the update with him and so far he hasn't experienced the problem yet. But it's only been a few hours. Have you all tried the update?

You are really stretching now, aren't you. That was a six year old Pioneer, hardly the same thing as a three month old Philips frying itself. :rolleyes:

But would you see a 6-year old CRT do that? Doubtful....my point was flat-panels, including plasmas, have much more problems. And all models have them, not just Philips or LG or the other '2nd tier' or 3rd tier models, Ice. ;)

Welcome your friend to the black screen of death club (BSOD). Hopefully, he is still in warranty. If so, call for service before the warranty expires, it will not go away. If not, join the ever growing group of people that have had to bitch directly to the US president of Philips. :rolleyes:

That is NOT the BSOD problem. Seems to be a circuitry or processing problem. BSOD is the TV picture going 'dark' (black) despite the TV remaining on, and then (maybe) coming back on. Or something close to that. But not "1/2 TV screen" pictures !!

Bitching to the U.S. president of Philips USA is better than complaining to a CSR -- at least they're likely to get some action or resolution, one way or the other, right ???

does BSOD affect half the screen like my friend, or is that for the entire screen?

You are correct.

justed did the update with him and so far he hasn't experienced the problem yet. But it's only been a few hours. Have you all tried the update?

Could be firmware related -- you didn't say how your friend received TV (STB or cable), and what firmware he was running, and if he was HDMI/component/etc.

Report back if the firmware fix holds....before the upgrade, how long could he go before the screen 'blacked' out ??

ok - well he's glad to know that it's not BSOD.
- he used to experience the problem with all connections. He had problems on HDMI, composite, and component.

I'm not exactly sure how long he could go before half the screen went black. It seemed to happen every 10 minutes. It's been getting worse lately.

But so far since he did the update, he says it's been working great and he hasn't had the problem yet.
The update version is the newest one - BX23U-1.6.0.0_03 (I'm not sure what he had before, but he never did an update before)

So far, so good. Hopefully the firmware will fix it all.

Thanks

BTW - he experiences burn-in often and I was wondering if his TV has some sort of pixel-shift that he can turn on to help this. - any ideas?

BTW - he experiences burn-in often and I was wondering if his TV has some sort of pixel-shift that he can turn on to help this. - any ideas?

It has it as a feature that is standard and already activated....how is he getting BI or IR ? From regular SD or HD TV watching?? Or games ?

Hit the directional toggle near the OK button, UP & DOWN and it should move it up and down a few notches in each direction. Just like moving it left-right.

Tried that. It doesent work!

Tried that. It doesent work!

Put on an ESPN-HD using your STB.....toggle left/right...then try up/down....you saying it won't work with the latter ?? Try another HD station....then try a SD station.

Could be the remote is broken. MOST stations will change direction up to 5-8 'wiggles'

BTW - he experiences burn-in often and I was wondering if his TV has some sort of pixel-shift that he can turn on to help this. - any ideas?


Is it burn in? or ghosting? Ghosting will show an image that will go away with normal viewing after a few minutes. Burn in will have the same image there, even after days of normal watching.

Ghosting - no big deal.
Burn in - get used to looking around the burnt image (pretty rare, but does happen - ex. using PIP)

Ghosting - no big deal. Burn in - get used to looking around the burnt image (pretty rare, but does happen - ex. using PIP)

Unless he has his Contrast/Brightness and other settings at extreme/out-of-whack levels, should be be seeing 'ghosting' that easily ? I don't even see it when the screen goes from a deep black to white/light or vice-versa.

Only time I got BI was when I left the clock time on in the upper right for about 15-20 minutes. Faded within a few hours, gone the next day. Best to not leave it or the MUTE icons on for more than a few minutes.

Playing games, I see ghosting (or DVD menus the kids leave on for a while.

My burn in was the PIP yellow box. It seems to have faded, but took about a year (or I just have learned to look past it and no longer notice it)

My burn in was the PIP yellow box. It seems to have faded, but took about a year (or I just have learned to look past it and no longer notice it)

That yellow box must be turned back to gray with the LEFT TOGGLE on the remote. That bright yellow box when you are changing things in the small box or when using the side-by-side (not recommended) is a high-risk BI item.

Using PIP with the border gray should be OK. I use mine heavily with no problems so far after 10 months. I also change it's position in the 4 corners every few weeks or so for rotation purposes.

That yellow box must be turned back to gray with the LEFT TOGGLE on the remote. That bright yellow box when you are changing things in the small box or when using the side-by-side (not recommended) is a high-risk BI item.

Using PIP with the border gray should be OK. I use mine heavily with no problems so far after 10 months. I also change it's position in the 4 corners every few weeks or so for rotation purposes.


Yes, my issue was caused using side by side, not the small box.

Im seriously considering buying the Sony DDW995 5.1 surround sound for my 9630. I now have an old Zenith 4.1 Dolby on it. Will the Sony be a noticable improvement?

I have two issues... :confused:

1) My preferred channel settings does not work any longer...e.g deleted channels are not removed..so I have to scroll through all the weak signal channels


2) Not able to adjust screen to get it centered when in widescereen mode. The black bars at the top and bottom are about an inch difference in size. I used to be able to move it up and down, side to side etc.


Any suggestions ?

1) My preferred channel settings does not work any longer...e.g deleted channels are not removed..so I have to scroll through all the weak signal channels

Did you try UNMARKing them ?? It should work -- maybe you need to update/roll-back the firmware ??? :confused:

2) Not able to adjust screen to get it centered when in widescereen mode. The black bars at the top and bottom are about an inch difference in size. I used to be able to move it up and down, side to side etc. Any suggestions ?

Are you sure that's the case ? Try watching an HD Channel in AUTOMATIC mode (same as WIDESCREEN, effect-wise). Use ESPN-HD. Toggle UP and DOWN the a few clicks -- it should work (is your remote working? Is the center toggle itself working -- not worn out or damaged, etc) ? :confused:

yep I tried unmarking them...still not removed...Upgrading the fiemware seems to be a nightmare from what I 've read on here...you gain some functionality and lose others...

Yes I'm sure....The toggle works when navigating the menu so I assume it should work to move the screen ....

Any other ideas I could try ?

yep I tried unmarking them...still not removed...Upgrading the fiemware seems to be a nightmare from what I 've read on here...you gain some functionality and lose others... Yes I'm sure....The toggle works when navigating the menu so I assume it should work to move the screen ....Any other ideas I could try ?

What firmware/software are you using -- what's the date of the release? Have you updated lately ?

I thought I remembered hearing of this issue before (way back somewhere in this thread). Don't know if it was ever solved, becasue I switched from basic cable (no set top box) with antenna to Dish which uses a set top box, so you no longer use the tuner on the television.

I thought I remembered hearing of this issue before (way back somewhere in this thread). Don't know if it was ever solved, becasue I switched from basic cable (no set top box) with antenna to Dish which uses a set top box, so you no longer use the tuner on the television.

Agreed...but I use my TV's tuner sometimes for the Channel 2- 21 HDTV channels and also with the PIP. So having a FAVORITES listing helps but isn't critical.

If I only had the TV tuner and no STB I guess it'd be a bigger PITA to have a bunch of dead-air channels and non-watched channels clogging up the lineup.

But if that's the WORST thing that happens to an HDTV....... ;)

Is it worth it to update to the last firmware update or should I leave well enough alone?

Is it worth it to update to the last firmware update or should I leave well enough alone?

I would upgrade: check what the improvements are.

HOWEVER....keep a copy of the previous (working) firmware either on the USB stick or on your PC...that way, if you have to revert back to the older one, you have it and it didn't erase the older one on your USB stick.

If an upgrade promises HDMI PQ improvements, and you aren't using HDMI, well, then you won't see any improvement in your PQ. I would still do it, but if you find something else turned for the worse, you'll want to go back to the older version.

Where could I find the previous firmware if I had to reflash my tv to the older version?

OK i am new here and hate to keep beating my problem to death, but I thought I would repost in this thread since this is the model I have. I copied the following from my previous posts.




42" philips ~ Menu Screen POPPING UP!! every few seconds

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Has anyone else had this problem. Is model # 42pf9630a/37. Called philips, they said update the firmware. Tried that and TV will not accept it. I took the batteriesout of the remote and tried blowing out the buttons on the TV. Here is where things get strange, when I unplug the video source "S-video" it stops doing it. I thought about changing to RBG cables or RWY, but didnt know if this would matter. Any help or suggestions would be great.

OK here is an update, tried a different input method, same problem. I ran to Best Buy and explained my problem. They called a repairman that handles their work. He says its a "full signal board". Says its $400 to $500 plus labor. If anyone has any experience with a signal board please help. What are the chances of finding one of these cheaper and doing it myself? Is there any sites I can find diagrams?

Also, the flash drive I used was a PNY 1G. that was free with turbo tax. I looked at new ones and noticed they said Vista compatible. I dont think mine said that. Should it matter. The firmware seemed to copy to it fine. Just racking my brain for any solutions.

When I try to update the TV the "loading" bar maxes out and thats it. No "validating" or "programming" ever starts.

If anyone has suggestions, great. I really dont want to keep hounding people on here so this is my last post about this. Thanks!

^
Is it still under warranty?

Nope. I have had it 20 months. Came with 12 month warranty. Didnt spring the $400 for the 3 year plan. I now wish I had since Im sitting on a $2200 turd.

Where could I find the previous firmware if I had to reflash my tv to the older version?

There are links on this thread and the 9631 and you should have a copy of the older firmwares saved chronologically.

I just put the latest firmware on the tv and it started buzzing really loud then the screen blew up....

I'm kidding, I updated. Guess I've been lucky I've had zero problems with my plasma. Especially after reading this thread. :)

Also, the flash drive I used was a PNY 1G. that was free with turbo tax. I looked at new ones and noticed they said Vista compatible. I dont think mine said that. Should it matter. The firmware seemed to copy to it fine. Just racking my brain for any solutions.

Buy a 128 mbyte USB at CompUSA and use it only for the TV. Download an earlier version of the firmware -- there are places on the web or links at AVS with the library of downloads -- and download that onto the TV.

I find it hard to believe that the OSM popping up is the result of a faulty circuit board.

Why don't you try different methods of signal input? Try component cables and/or HDMI.....whatever is the problem is obviousley affected by the method of signal delivery so why not go for that over a new circuit board?

Why don't you try different methods of signal input? Try component cables and/or HDMI.....whatever is the problem is obviousley affected by the method of signal delivery so why not go for that over a new circuit board?

I tried component cables and the menu still popped up. I did notice that one of the issues resolved from an old firmware was menu popping up. I think the usb slots might be out, I tried plugging in my Sony camcorder and the menu said "unsupported device". But on the otherhand when I try the drive update the TV does at least show the firmware version number just doesnt finish loading. one other thing, I put my kodak SD in and it read it fine. Looked at over a 100 pics and the menu never popped up. So Im thinking if the Signal Board was out it would affect all incoming signals. WHO KNOWS? I guess im going to try a new flash drive.

I tried component cables and the menu still popped up. I did notice that one of the issues resolved from an old firmware was menu popping up. I think the usb slots might be out, I tried plugging in my Sony camcorder and the menu said "unsupported device". But on the otherhand when I try the drive update the TV does at least show the firmware version number just doesnt finish loading. one other thing, I put my kodak SD in and it read it fine. Looked at over a 100 pics and the menu never popped up. So Im thinking if the Signal Board was out it would affect all incoming signals. WHO KNOWS? I guess im going to try a new flash drive.

You can get the latest firmware/software that your TV currently uses by entering the OSM and going to Software.

Has anyone looked into hacking the firmware to adjust the built in video settings? Most of them are pretty much useless (in fact ALL of them are useless to me) and it would be nice to be able to build a custom firmware with more useful settings. Anyone know what processor is running in this beast? One set of user settings just isn't enough.

Ion, what do you mean by just one set of user settings ?

There is only one set of user adjustable video settings (brightness, contrast, etc.) and several locked settings. The locked settings are all WAY too extreme (too bright, contrasty, color level too high, etc) In addition, some of the input labels actually lock you into one of the locked video settings (like the STB label). I would like to be able to edit those locked settings in a custom firmware so that they would be useful. Doesn't appear that Philips is going to give us more than the one set of user adjustable settings.

bump

There is only one set of user adjustable video settings (brightness, contrast, etc.) and several locked settings. The locked settings are all WAY too extreme (too bright, contrasty, color level too high, etc) In addition, some of the input labels actually lock you into one of the locked video settings (like the STB label). I would like to be able to edit those locked settings in a custom firmware so that they would be useful. Doesn't appear that Philips is going to give us more than the one set of user adjustable settings.

Yes, by this I take it you mean that all we have setting-wise is the PERSONAL preset; if we change any of the variables in the RICH or NATURAL or other presets, they revert back to their original factory specs AND the changes transfer over to the PERSONAL and override what we have there.

I agree, I especially never understood the transfer.

I think Philips figured that the other settings were just examples of how the set would look with different configurations and figured if you liked settings high -- the RICH look, for example -- that you would put in numbers CLOSE to that (but not necessarily exactly like those in the RICH) into the PERSONAL preset.

Bottom Line: Everyone should write down the specs for their preferred default PERSONAL so that if you inadvertently change one of the other presets OR if you decide to mimic them and input new numbers directly into PERSONAL, you can revert back to what you had originally.

Confusing, but with a pen & paper or reliable PC to keep track of the original PERSONAL that we watch most of the time, it's do-able.

Now that I am over 2,000 hours I have to admit I have occasionally watched a few minutes under one of the other presets, probably the RICH one mostly, and it is kinda cool. But when I watch HDTV or movies with my regular PERSONAL I really don't find myself wishing the Contrast or Brightness or Color were another 15-30 notches higher. The PQ really is good enough even if my numbers and overall 'brightness' or 'vividness' are low.

But when I check it out, yeah, I can see why someone would leave on one of the presets or try and input new ones closer to the higher preset numbers into PERSONAL.

I may get an ISF calibration and if so, would be very curious to see what my optimal settings are as defined by a pro and the set itself. Wouldn't surprise me if the final settings were alot closer to what I have right now in PERSONAL than any of the other 5 remaining presets (though I suspect the Service Menu junk would be tweaked which would affect how all the presets looked).

Can our sets be professionally calibrated? I was under the impression from one of the other forums on AVS that I frequent and Philips were "unfriendly" towards professional calibrations. I also get the impression that the calibrators see our sets at low-quality and not worth the trouble. I, of course, would have to disagree and have always wondered how much better it could look with a professional calibration.

Can our sets be professionally calibrated? I was under the impression from one of the other forums on AVS that I frequent and Philips were "unfriendly" towards professional calibrations. I also get the impression that the calibrators see our sets at low-quality and not worth the trouble. I, of course, would have to disagree and have always wondered how much better it could look with a professional calibration.

I haven't heard anything about Philips sets being 'unfriendly' towards an IFS calibration. I think there are some ISF guys who belong to AVS -- guys, chime in !!

Philips sets might be more difficult to calibrate or maybe they don't 'improve' as much as other sets, but I am sure an ISF or other qualified pro would know what to touch and what NOT to touch.

I probably WILL get a calibration done just to see what all the hoopla is all about. Since I am satisfied with SD and HD looks awesome, I really don't know what he can do on PQ to improve things that much -- but maybe he'll surprise me ??

As for audio, I know next to nothing there and currently use the Philips TV for sound so that is probably where a calibration would improve things alot (assuming I got a receiver, amp, and external speakers). Now that I think about it, it probably pays for me to wait until I get externals before calling the ISF guy.

Personally, I find all the factory presets utterly unwatchable!! I used a THX disc to set reasonable settings (contrast 65, brightness 55, color 40, sharpness 2) This was using component inputs with DVD resolution. When watching HDTV over hdmi I find the brightness looks better about 5 points higher.

Again, anyone have any idea how we might hack a firmware to set some of the preset groups to something more useful?

Personally, I find all the factory presets utterly unwatchable!! I used a THX disc to set reasonable settings (contrast 65, brightness 55, color 40, sharpness 2) This was using component inputs with DVD resolution. When watching HDTV over hdmi I find the brightness looks better about 5 points higher. Again, anyone have any idea how we might hack a firmware to set some of the preset groups to something more useful?

Can't you just modestly change the PRESET settings and have them carry over to PERSONAL? Write down all the different ones you use.

I know it's not the most user-friendly way of doing it, but I don't know if we could get the firmware changed. We should contact Philips -- maybe they can disable something and allow changes in the PRESETS to 'stick' permanently and not carryover to PERSONAL.

Personally, I find all the factory presets utterly unwatchable!! I used a THX disc to set reasonable settings (contrast 65, brightness 55, color 40, sharpness 2) This was using component inputs with DVD resolution. When watching HDTV over hdmi I find the brightness looks better about 5 points higher.

Again, anyone have any idea how we might hack a firmware to set some of the preset groups to something more useful?

Was this THX test on a dvd for a movie? From what Ive heard and read around here the THX set up on those things are only good for the movie that its attached to and everyone is different... ur better off getting an avia set up disc or something similiar...

PhilipsPhanatic,

Sure I could write down settings, but I would need different settings for each of my inputs. I find that I need different settings for them. It would be much more convenient to have multiple personal settings.

Donniewb420,

Yes, it was a DVD. That is what I mean though, my DVD settings (component inputs) are different from my DVR (hdmi) settings for best picture. I don't want to have to adjust the personal settings every time I switch inputs.

PhilipsPhanatic, Sure I could write down settings, but I would need different settings for each of my inputs. I find that I need different settings for them. It would be much more convenient to have multiple personal settings.

I only have component (STB, DVD) and co-ax (VCR) -- I take it you have more than 1 digital connection (component, HDTV), possibly to the same device ?

Can you tell the difference between HDMI and component with certain settings such that you need to adjust it ? :confused:

Absolutely, digital (hdmi) connections look very different from component or composite inputs, as well as RF input (all being used on my set)

iontyre - As far as I'm aware, nobody here has a copy of the source code or development platform for Philip's CineOS. That being said, most people don't want to risk crashing their plasma's firmware by tinkering with it. Who knows...maybe someone is lurking here who has the inside scoop on Philip's and can provide the source as well as the JTAG'ing procedure. I for one would love to put TVGOS back in as well as enable mp4 playback from USB (non-USA versions of several sets had an ethernet port that showed up as a source that allowed you to playback streamed content from ethernet so I know mp4 decoding is in the firmware already). The service manual says the hardware is theoretically capable of streaming content to a USB device in a PVR like manner (for instance capturing OTA HD).

Absolutely, digital (hdmi) connections look very different from component or composite inputs, as well as RF input (all being used on my set)

Well, RF or pure analog I could undestand -- its like when you watch a TV channel through the VCR vs. the TV direct, it always looks a bit 'washed out' or whiter through the VCR.

I would think that component vs. HDMI should look pretty close, though, no ?

I've been searching for this manual. What is the web site?

I've been searching for this manual. What is the web site?


What manual ?????

Well, after almost two years of steady, wonderful operation, my 42PF9630a just decided to stop providing a picture. Little green light is still shining, still get the same click noise when turning on or off, but absolutely nothing on the screen. Sound works. Ambilight even works. But no picture. I am heartbroken. I won this from ESPN, and really can't afford a fix or a new TV. Sad day...

Well, after almost two years of steady, wonderful operation, my 42PF9630a just decided to stop providing a picture. Little green light is still shining, still get the same click noise when turning on or off, but absolutely nothing on the screen. Sound works. Ambilight even works. But no picture. I am heartbroken. I won this from ESPN, and really can't afford a fix or a new TV. Sad day...


sorry to hear that,that blows...

Well, after almost two years of steady, wonderful operation, my 42PF9630a just decided to stop providing a picture. Little green light is still shining, still get the same click noise when turning on or off, but absolutely nothing on the screen. Sound works. Ambilight even works. But no picture. I am heartbroken. I won this from ESPN, and really can't afford a fix or a new TV. Sad day...

No warranty ???? :confused:

You should get it checked out...could be a minor thing that might not cost much, esp. if sound still works. Are you sure a video plug didn't get loose or pulled ???

I tried everything. None of the inputs (just kept pushing the AV+ button on the remote, couldn't see anything) produced even a flicker of light. Warranty? They wanted almost $1000 for a three year warranty! Sure, sounds good now, but I don't have 10 bills to be blown off on warranties. Got it November '05, so the one year is long gone...

Tech is coming October 2, for estimate. Not expecting miracles.

Ion, that sounds like a ripofff -- a warranty should normally be about 20% of the purchase cost (for 3 years) so unless your set cost $5K (the 9630's never cost that much), someone was trying to rip you off. Even a 5-year shouldn't cost that much.

You try the side inputs ?

Try and get into the OSM and do a re-do of the channel mapping...also try and do a firmware upgrade (older and newere software, whatever)....maybe if you can enter the SM and check for the error messaage? That might tell you something right there.....On the Philips Remote, hit TV and then hit: 0...6...2...5...9...6....INFO...you should then get the warning message and be in. Scroll forward, look for any error messages, abnormal messages, and report back annd post. DON'T TOUCH ANY SETTINGS OR TRY AND GO INTO THE MENUS DEEPER..JUST SCROLL AND LOOK.

Thanks for the suggestions, PhilipsPhanatic, but there is NO VIDEO, so inputting 062596-info shows nothing but black. Tried side inputs too (with xbox 360), nothing. I did notice though that if you look through the grill on the back of the TV right near the center there are two little green leds. One is on steady, the other is blinking. I bet that is a failure notice of some kind.

Wait a sec...is it 062596 or 062956 -- I forgot.

Check both, just to make sure neither comes on despite the screen problem.

I could be wrong (of course) but this problem seems EASIER to diagnose since it's a power/screen issue that is self-evident.

062596 was the right code (my guess is June 25 1996 is important to someone at Philips), but like I said, it was no use. If someone could look at the back of the TV just above the inputs and see if they see two green leds in there, and let me know if they are both on, or one blinking, that would be helpful maybe...

I have a 9631 and right above my component area there are holes leading into the plasma but I see NO lights or LED's. I suspect the 9630 setup might be different but if someone out there can check, maybe NO lights are evident there, too.

Is that with the TV on or off?

Is that with the TV on or off?

TV on...and I don't see any lights anywhere near any of the see-through-grids near the component; not above, below, or to the side. Don't think there are any at all looking over the entire backside.

Wait for a 9630 owner to confirm but I think the 9631/9630 are so close I doubt there's a difference in this.

Wow, ok that is weird. I have two very bright green leds, pretty much in the center of the area inside the grid right above the input panel on the back. These led's are right next to each other, one shining steadily and the other blinking fairly rapidly.

Any 9630 owners out there want to chime in?

Hi,
I bought a 42PF9956/37 online and it doesn't work. If anyone out there can help me, please let me know. When I plug it up, the sound come on and then when I put the video cable in it does some clicks and it shuts off. Does anyone know how to fix that at all?
Thanks,
Lisa

cherfilst@yhoo.com

Hi, I bought a 42PF9956/37 online and it doesn't work. If anyone out there can help me, please let me know. When I plug it up, the sound come on and then when I put the video cable in it does some clicks and it shuts off. Does anyone know how to fix that at all?
Thanks, Lisa cherfilst@yhoo.com

"Plug it up" ????? You mean 'plug it in' ???

We don't know how you are getting sound, what video cable(s) you are using, what other devices (DVR, STB, DVD, VCR, etc) you may or may not be attaching.

First thing you should do is just plug the cable IN line into the TV and see if you get a picture without anything else attached. This will tell you if the set works properly and/or if you are doing something wrong in the setup.

I would also re-read the Philips manual on getting started/setup, too.

Wow, ok that is weird. I have two very bright green leds, pretty much in the center of the area inside the grid right above the input panel on the back. These led's are right next to each other, one shining steadily and the other blinking fairly rapidly.

Any 9630 owners out there want to chime in?


Wish I could help. my set is wall-mounted, so I can't see the back. Tried using a mirror, but can't see that far up. I can barely see the Component panel. Have to connect by touch.

Anglico,

Thanks for trying. If the lights are there, you should easily be able to detect them. If I place my hand a few inches away from the back of the set I can see the green light shining on my hand. I don't even have to look into the grid! Seems no one else has these lights, so I am assuming they are an indication of the failure of my set. Hopefully the repairmen coming next week will quickly (and relatively inexpensively) be able to determine and fix what is wrong.

Whole family agrees, life sucks without our panel!

Anglico, Thanks for trying. If the lights are there, you should easily be able to detect them. If I place my hand a few inches away from the back of the set I can see the green light shining on my hand. I don't even have to look into the grid! Seems no one else has these lights, so I am assuming they are an indication of the failure of my set. Hopefully the repairmen coming next week will quickly (and relatively inexpensively) be able to determine and fix what is wrong.Whole family agrees, life sucks without our panel!

Definitely report back once you get the diagnosis....I'm a bit surprised it takes this long to get a repair guy out there; it might really be a simple problem that he can fix/diagnose within 2 minutes.

Definitely report back once you get the diagnosis....I'm a bit surprised it takes this long to get a repair guy out there; it might really be a simple problem that he can fix/diagnose within 2 minutes.

I've never seen anyone get a repair done on one of these sets quickly. Usually takes weeks if not more than a month!! And they were booked solid for two weeks on house calls. I could have tried trucking my set to them, but...no, too difficult.

I'll let you all know the results. I'm not optomistic on cost...

I have a 9630 Plasma and there are no green lights on in the back. I purchased a 4 year service policy at BestBuy for $299. Hopefully I never have to use it. My TV is over a year old.

My one confusion still is...what gives me the better HD resolution ... 720p or 1080i

Thanks Mike, I will be sure to point these lights out immediately to the repair guy when he comes tomorrow. I can always hope its just a blown fuse or something...yeah, right!

Stick with the 720p, that's native for the set. However, depending on your source, you may get better conversion from the set or the source device, so it may be worth experimenting. I was just passing hdmi from my cable box (SA-8300) at whatever resolution the box provided and letting the set do the conversion, seemed to work best.

Thanks Mike, I will be sure to point these lights out immediately to the repair guy when he comes tomorrow. I can always hope its just a blown fuse or something...yeah, right! Stick with the 720p, that's native for the set. However, depending on your source, you may get better conversion from the set or the source device, so it may be worth experimenting. I was just passing hdmi from my cable box (SA-8300) at whatever resolution the box provided and letting the set do the conversion, seemed to work best.

Yeah, I think my SA box is set to PASS-THRU or something like that. You use the advanced programming function to have the box recognize all different inputs -- 480/720/1080 -- and then it lets the TV do the rest, I guess.

Only thing is it results in a delay when changing channels.

Well, repair guy just came and went, took my set with him. Says it appears to be the power supply, cost about $400.00. But won't know for sure till they swap it out, since without power you can't really test anything else. He expects to be able to get back to me in 3-4 days.

On the plus side, this guys seemed very knowledgable and was familiar with Philips sets. Even commented on liking the Ambilight function, and said these sets should last much longer than the two years. He knew about the recall problems (did not affect my set). I was quite satisfied with the level of technical expertise he commanded. At least I feel I can trust him somewhat.

I'll update when I hear more.

Well, repair guy just came and went, took my set with him. Says it appears to be the power supply, cost about $400.00. But won't know for sure till they swap it out, since without power you can't really test anything else. He expects to be able to get back to me in 3-4 days. On the plus side, this guys seemed very knowledgable and was familiar with Philips sets. Even commented on liking the Ambilight function, and said these sets should last much longer than the two years. He knew about the recall problems (did not affect my set). I was quite satisfied with the level of technical expertise he commanded. At least I feel I can trust him somewhat.
I'll update when I hear more.

Fingers crossed for you Ion.....what did he say about the green lights? Did he come across your problem before ?

If the power supply thing is defective, I would think that should/would be covered, no?

Something that major shouldn't go that quickly. How many hours do you have on the set ?

I have a 9630 Plasma and there are no green lights on in the back. I purchased a 4 year service policy at BestBuy for $299. Hopefully I never have to use it. My TV is over a year old. My one confusion still is...what gives me the better HD resolution ... 720p or 1080i

Great price on the warranty, though I've heard BB is a PITA to deal with. Hopefully, you never find out.

When you talk about 720p vs. 1080i, the option there rests with the STB, right? The TV is native to 720p -- that can't be changed, right ?

The repair guy seemed to think we should all be seeing those green led's. You guys sure you looked with the set ON?

He said power supply problems were common to ALL plasmas, and that plasmas are almost always expensive to fix because they are not modular for the most part. But he also thought they were usually well made and should last well over two years usually. We discussed the fact there was a momentary power outage a few days before the set broke, and said it was possible that could have damaged the set. We discussed getting a high end power conditioner - surge suppressor, and he said that was a VERY good idea.

I have a 9630 Plasma and there are no green lights on in the back. I purchased a 4 year service policy at BestBuy for $299. Hopefully I never have to use it. My TV is over a year old.

My one confusion still is...what gives me the better HD resolution ... 720p or 1080i

Yes, that was a great offer on the warranty. Philips offered me three years at like $999!!!

Fingers crossed for you Ion.....what did he say about the green lights? Did he come across your problem before ?

If the power supply thing is defective, I would think that should/would be covered, no?

Something that major shouldn't go that quickly. How many hours do you have on the set ?

It might have been covered if my set was only one year old. It is 20 months.

The repair guy seemed to think we should all be seeing those green led's. You guys sure you looked with the set ON?

I looked at every set of holes in the back...nothing.

Only thing I saw was a very faint white LED but it also could have been light coming thru from the other side, it was deep from the back side. But nothing close to 2 green LED's.

Yes, that was a great offer on the warranty. Philips offered me three years at like $999!!!

Do you have warranty coverage from where you bought it?

Also, how many hours on the set ?

I didn't buy the set, I won it from ESPN (Mike and Mike in the morning). I'm pretty sure the warranty was only manufacturers, one year as I recall. I will check on that. I haven't checked the hours in a long time, and obviously can't now!

I didn't buy the set, I won it from ESPN (Mike and Mike in the morning). I'm pretty sure the warranty was only manufacturers, one year as I recall. I will check on that. I haven't checked the hours in a long time, and obviously can't now!

I bet Imus would have given you a warranty !! :D

Seriousley, $400 to replace 1 small electronic part is very steep....stupid part probably costs under $100, so how much are they padding with labor ?

Call around and see what others would charge you for the part + labor.

I found a used power supply for the 9630 on the internet today for $249. I think I'm getting as good a deal as is out there. These sets are just plain expensive.

I found a used power supply for the 9630 on the internet today for $249. I think I'm getting as good a deal as is out there. These sets are just plain expensive.

For that much, I'd let them install a new one for the extra cost + labor. No sense risking it.

I'm having some issues with my 42PF9630A, can anyone help me out?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=917869

For that much, I'd let them install a new one for the extra cost + labor. No sense risking it.

Yes, I'm letting them do it. Just wanted to check online to see what the power supply should cost. Seems they are treating me fair.

Just ordered a Power conditioner (Belkin PureAV AP1100fc-10) so that maybe this won't happen again. No more cheap surge protectors for me!

Just ordered a Power conditioner (Belkin PureAV AP1100fc-10) so that maybe this won't happen again. No more cheap surge protectors for me!

What did you have before?

Surge protector is one area where I went quality....bought a Monster with the $$$ I saved buying non-Monster cables. :D

What did you have before?

Surge protector is one area where I went quality


Absolutely correct. My plasma is on a APC H-15 unit. It handles all my equipment... cable box, dvd recorder and players. It adjusts the voltage up or down as necessary. Maintains it at about 215. Really works in summer when voltage is down due to all the air conditioners.

Absolutely correct. My plasma is on a APC H-15 unit. It handles all my equipment... cable box, dvd recorder and players. It adjusts the voltage up or down as necessary. Maintains it at about 215. Really works in summer when voltage is down due to all the air conditioners.

I got one of the more upscale Monster units, not sure if it does what your APC does, but it cost about $70.00 :confused:

I got one of the more upscale Monster units, not sure if it does what your APC does, but it cost about $70.00

The APC unit runs about $450.

The Belkin unit I ordered cost $82. 10 outlets.

4720 joules protection
Level 3 power protection
Phase 2 PureFilter circuitry with isolated video and audio filters
Advanced overvoltage protection
2-line telephone/pay-per-view protection with splitter
240,000A maximum spike amperage

Hope it does the job.

It should, that's better than a simple surge protector. However, most people worry about spikes and surges, but low-voltage is sneakier and can destroy your gear. At this very moment, my unit is displaying a low voltage condition and adjusting for it. When I noticed this happening often, I called the power company. They said it was a normal fluctuation due to demands and that my unit was making the proper adjustments. If my unit kept it between 110 & 125 it was OK. The unit keeps my voltage at 115 no matter how much I'm running in the house.

Heard back today (Saturday no less!) and the TV is fixed. And the guy is personally dropping it off on his way home from work Monday. Final cost $459. All in all, not as bad as I feared.

Question for you guys, Are you able to move the picture vertically on your sets when receiving and HD feed? I can obviously move it left to right, but most of the times when watching sports the football ticker at the top or the nascar ticker is a bit too low and a lot of picture is being lost toward the top of my screen... does the set not allow you to move vertically when the only format options are widescreen and automatic? any help would be appreciated.

I'm sure others have had this problem.

The black bezel (isn't that what the black frame is called?) is falling off the set. It seems to have been held in place only by a rubber glue type of adhesive. I have tried double stick tape but it still falls off after time (prob the heat and vibration)
Anyone else have a solution that worked for them?

Thanks
Ron

Question for you guys, Are you able to move the picture vertically on your sets when receiving and HD feed? I can obviously move it left to right, but most of the times when watching sports the football ticker at the top or the nascar ticker is a bit too low and a lot of picture is being lost toward the top of my screen... does the set not allow you to move vertically when the only format options are widescreen and automatic? any help would be appreciated.

Yes, you should be able to move the screen up or down about 7 'clicks' using the UP/DOWN/LEFT/RIGHT toggle buttons surronding the "OK" button in the center of the Philips (or Harmony) remotes.

If it moves left-right but not up-down, it's probably the TV signal and not the TV. I'm assuming the up-down buttons aren't worn out on the remote, too. ;)

I move the picture on ESPN-HD down a bit so line up the ticker with the bottom of my viewing area. On other stations, I raise it a bit.

Yes, you should be able to move the screen up or down about 7 'clicks' using the UP/DOWN/LEFT/RIGHT toggle buttons surronding the "OK" button in the center of the Philips (or Harmony) remotes.

If it moves left-right but not up-down, it's probably the TV signal and not the TV. I'm assuming the up-down buttons aren't worn out on the remote, too. ;)

I move the picture on ESPN-HD down a bit so line up the ticker with the bottom of my viewing area. On other stations, I raise it a bit.


Yea I thought in the past I was able to move it up and down, I wonder if its the way the cable company is broadcasting the channel.. no the buttons are fine, oh well.

Yea I thought in the past I was able to move it up and down, I wonder if its the way the cable company is broadcasting the channel.. no the buttons are fine, oh well.

Should work on SOME HD channel....move around, see what is up. Sports channels that are in HD are the most receptive. Movie HD channels might not give lattitude to go up/down or sideways.

TV was returned last evening. Plugged in long enough to see video was working, then unplugged again. Will not plug in till my Power Conditioner arrives.

Very satisfied with service. Friendly, knowledgable and reasonable.

When I begin using the set, I'm going to check and see if those LED's are still visible. Maybe it depends on manufactured date and place. Mine is Mexico, October 2005.

TV was returned last evening. Plugged in long enough to see video was working, then unplugged again. Will not plug in till my Power Conditioner arrives. Very satisfied with service. Friendly, knowledgable and reasonable. When I begin using the set, I'm going to check and see if those LED's are still visible. Maybe it depends on manufactured date and place. Mine is Mexico, October 2005.

What did you have done again? And what was the parts/labor split ?

Labor was about 2/3rds of the cost. Replacement of power supply.

Well, I get to try the repair part too. I am having a horizontal bar appear accross the screen, the bar is about 20% of the screen height, about 1/3 of the way down the screen. The bar is transparant, but it is darker than the rest of the screen. Switching inputs used to make it go away, but not anymore. Different input, different channel, still there most of the time. Some times it flickers on and off, really annoying.

I only had the 1 year warrenty, and I have almost had the set for 2 years. Good news is I bought it with my Visa, which extends the warrenty up to another year. So I am dealing with Visa now.

I am supposed to get it fixed, then Visa will repay me. So far the place Philips said to go charges $399 for the fix, plus whatever the parts are, but at least it is in-house. I just want to verify with Visa that this is acceptable before I go ahead with it.

Well, I get to try the repair part too. I am having a horizontal bar appear accross the screen, the bar is about 20% of the screen height, about 1/3 of the way down the screen. The bar is transparant, but it is darker than the rest of the screen. Switching inputs used to make it go away, but not anymore. Different input, different channel, still there most of the time. Some times it flickers on and off, really annoying.

Report back when it's professionally diagnosed and fixed so others can have a record of what happened and the fix. Thanks !

Well, I have the 50" version of this set. I bought it from BB and it is almost 2 years old. Over the weekend the set started to do the black screen again. Yes I have the latest firmware and all was well. So I thought WTH? Not again? Only this time, the black screen would happen regularly every few minutes. So I started to use process of elimination. I was using hdmi through the HD cable box, so I connected the cable directly to the set and still got the black screen. Tried watching a movie from the DVD player, on the other hdmi connection, and still the black screen.

So, I called a very reputable local repair shop. They charged me a pick-up fee plus a $20.00 diagnosis fee, which I thought was reasonable. The pick-up fee and diagnostic fee is deducted from the repair bill, if they do the work. Today they called and said that the set had a bad crystal. The bill is $300 minus the $45 fees. I went..... PHEW!! I had thought of all kinds of bad scenarios, bad signal board and such.

Today they called and said that the set had a bad crystal. The bill is $300 minus the $45 fees. I went..... PHEW!! I had thought of all kinds of bad scenarios, bad signal board and such.

What the heck is a 'bad crystal' ????? :confused::confused:

A friend of mine bought a 42PF9630/78 plasma (78 stands for the argentinean market) that seems to have quite use (it's not brand new). While picture quality is "overall" very good (the only really bad things about this plasma are: noticeable false contouring with home videos, and some video noise).

The thing is that the TV has a strong permanent burn in on the superior right corner of the screen (look at the pics!). While the TV was manufactured in Belgium in January 2006, "real" amount of (mis)use is unknown (is there a way to discover that?) that spot on the screen is a big problem, it just doesn't go away!

Can it be fixed?? Thanks a lot. Hope you can help, the TV is really cool.

Checked this morning, and the two green led's are still there!!! Yup, one steady, the other blinking. Set is working beautifully though. Picture actually looks better than before, so maybe those line conditioners really work!

A friend of mine bought a 42PF9630/78 plasma (78 stands for the argentinean market) that seems to have quite use (it's not brand new). While picture quality is "overall" very good (the only really bad things about this plasma are: noticeable false contouring with home videos, and some video noise).

The thing is that the TV has a strong permanent burn in on the superior right corner of the screen (look at the pics!). While the TV was manufactured in Belgium in January 2006, "real" amount of (mis)use is unknown (is there a way to discover that?) that spot on the screen is a big problem, it just doesn't go away!

Can it be fixed?? Thanks a lot. Hope you can help, the TV is really cool.


I think what you need is to somehow generate a pure white image and let it sit on the screen for a while. That should gradually even out the retained image. Though maybe its just me, but I don't see any burnin in those first two pics, maybe a little on the third.

I think what you need is to somehow generate a pure white image and let it sit on the screen for a while. That should gradually even out the retained image. Though maybe its just me, but I don't see any burnin in those first two pics, maybe a little on the third.

Thanks for your reply, man. Pictures indeed do not show the burn in clearly, but trust me it is there. EDITED: the first 2 pictures is actually the TV OFF, just the 3rd shows the burn in.
I will try your advice with a "white cleaning solid". But doing that...does the screen gets older?? I mean, is it harmless to the panel?

Some other questions:
-the thing is that the screen gets ghosting quite easily, is that a normal pdp behavior??
-Watching 16:9 DVDs that do not cover the entire screen causes burn in? -Sometimes motion in certain scenes is not "natural", my DVD player isn't progressive...that may be the cause?

Too many doubts :)

Some other questions:-the thing is that the screen gets ghosting quite easily, is that a normal pdp behavior??

No, though I'm not sure what you mean by 'ghosting' -- if you mean outlines of images, I have never seen it on mine. Did you break-in your set ?

-Watching 16:9 DVDs that do not cover the entire screen causes burn in? -Sometimes motion in certain scenes is not "natural", my DVD player isn't progressive...that may be the cause?

Use AUTOMATIC to always fill your 16:9 viewing area !! ;)

No, though I'm not sure what you mean by 'ghosting' -- if you mean outlines of images, I have never seen it on mine. Did you break-in your set ?

I mean...some elements remain on the screen for a little (characters, DVD menu items, etc.)

Use AUTOMATIC to always fill your 16:9 viewing area !! ;)

yes, I really like using 100% of the screen...but "automatic" stretches the image a bit, does not look natural and you loose picture details :( I prefer watching everything in the right aspect ratio :)

What the heck is a 'bad crystal' ????? :confused::confused:


I don't know, maybe you can tell me! Don't plasma sets have crystals in them?

Can anyone teach me how to access TVs internal Service Menu? What kind of information shows that? :)

yes, I really like using 100% of the screen...but "automatic" stretches the image a bit, does not look natural and you loose picture details :( I prefer watching everything in the right aspect ratio :)

Could not disagree more.

The AUTOMATIC function on the Philips plasmas is the best I have seen at filling the screen. I don't even notice it on the most stretched items -- 4:3 SD content -- and I can tell you it was noticeably different on HDTV's from a few years ago when I first started researching TV's.

I know we are all different and some people prefer NO distortion at all, but unless you are watching something in HD 4:3 and/or a DVD that is 2.35:1 anamorphic, I don't notice the stretching at all. Even when I watch DVD's, filling them 16:9 vs. their OAR is so minimal (unless it's a very rectangular 2.35:1 movie which most movies are NOT) that it just pays to leave it on AUTOMATIC. I don't even think I've used the other 5 settings in-between AUTOMATIC (98% of the time) and WIDESCREEN (1% of the time). Maybe I used the 16:9 MOVIE on Sci-Fi channel or programs that are somewhat rectangular in their OAR.

Can anyone teach me how to access TVs internal Service Menu? What kind of information shows that? :)

It allows you to make very fine adustments to the TV controls, notably the color and picture settings. Unless you know what you are doing it is best to leave this to an ISF technician. You can really screw the TV up if you don't know what you are doing. For most of us, changing settings in the OSM is enough.

The one thing you can do in the SM is check the hours of operation on your plasma. Hit "0-6-2-5-9-6+INFO" and then enter the SM. Scroll up and down but to not enter any of the functions. There are 2 plasma hours listed; the 2nd one is actual PDP hours and the first adds 1/2 hour each time the TV is turned on/off (don't ask me why) so it's artificially high.

It allows you to make very fine adustments to the TV controls, notably the color and picture settings. Unless you know what you are doing it is best to leave this to an ISF technician. You can really screw the TV up if you don't know what you are doing. For most of us, changing settings in the OSM is enough.

The one thing you can do in the SM is check the hours of operation on your plasma. Hit "0-6-2-5-9-6+INFO" and then enter the SM. Scroll up and down but to not enter any of the functions. There are 2 plasma hours listed; the 2nd one is actual PDP hours and the first adds 1/2 hour each time the TV is turned on/off (don't ask me why) so it's artificially high.

Thanks for the information! Yes, "Automatic" resize works quite good for SD 4:3 content comparing it to other PDPs, but watching 2.35:1 anamorphic DVDs isn't my ideal way :) Cannot imagine watcing The Lord of the Rings or Star Wars that way!! Of course, having the screen 100% "busy" is really good, but losing picture is not :)

--When you say "then enter the SM" you mean what? The Serial Number? Sorry, I don't know what that means :p Anyone has a screenshot/picture from that pdp onscreen information? thank you very much

Thanks for the information! Yes, "Automatic" resize works quite good for SD 4:3 content comparing it to other PDPs, but watching 2.35:1 anamorphic DVDs isn't my ideal way :) Cannot imagine watcing The Lord of the Rings or Star Wars that way!! Of course, having the screen 100% "busy" is really good, but losing picture is not :) --When you say "then enter the SM" you mean what? The Serial Number? Sorry, I don't know what that means :p Anyone has a screenshot/picture from that pdp onscreen information? thank you very much

LOTR or SW movies are ones I probably would watch in OAR.

After hitting the code, a warning comes on the screen and you hit ENTER or the red button to enter the SM. Then scroll up/down to see different items. The hourly displays are on the 1st and 2nd scrolled pages, you will find them right away.

LOTR or SW movies are ones I probably would watch in OAR.

After hitting the code, a warning comes on the screen and you hit ENTER or the red button to enter the SM. Then scroll up/down to see different items. The hourly displays are on the 1st and 2nd scrolled pages, you will find them right away.

PhilipsPhanatic please tell me what you mean when you say "enter the SM". What actually is "SM"? Serial Model? Serial M/Number?? :(

Updated: what a fool, now I get it...ha ha ha, you mean "Service Menu" right? :)

PhilipsPhanatic please tell me what you mean when you say "enter the SM". What actually is "SM"? Serial Model? Serial M/Number?? :( Updated: what a fool, now I get it...ha ha ha, you mean "Service Menu" right? :)

SM is Service Menu.

Once you hit the code on the Philips remote, a warning comes up. Hit the red button or Enter to proceed. Then scroll up and down to find the 2 hourly display counters.

PHILIPS PF9630 plasma features PDF says it has something called "anti ageing circuit" I believe is somehow related to prevent burn in, right?
Ok, anyone knows how does it works? Where it is? When it works? Anything!
There's nothing about it on the user manual and would be good to know it because this TV hasn't any pixel shifting, white wash or image reversal like most plasmas do! :confused:

PHILIPS PF9630 plasma features PDF says it has something called "anti ageing circuit" I believe is somehow related to prevent burn in, right? Ok, anyone knows how does it works? Where it is? When it works? Anything! There's nothing about it on the user manual and would be good to know it because this TV hasn't any pixel shifting, white wash or image reversal like most plasmas do! :confused:

I think the 9630's and later models had a modest pixel-shifting process...I think it was mentioned in HT Magazine a few years ago.

What is the best way to clean the screen of a Plasma TV? Windex???

What is the best way to clean the screen of a Plasma TV? Windex???

ABSOLUTELY NOT !!! :mad::mad::mad::mad:....goto CC or BB and buy the Monster flat-panel microfiber cleaning pack for $20.

Windex...gimme a break. ;)

I think the 9630's and later models had a modest pixel-shifting process...I think it was mentioned in HT Magazine a few years ago.

I am creating a DVD that contains an all white solid video that loops every 30 minutes, that would work?
Plasma needs to be with brightness & contrast set to maximun?? :o

Quick question to anyone that owns the 37 model of this tv I was wondering if anyone has experienced this. Whenever I watch a dvd or just cable tv the picture would cut out for a span of 2-3 seconds and it would came back. I watch dvd's through HDMI and tv through component cables. This just recently started happening and was wondering if anyone had experienced this before and how they solved this?

Quick question to anyone that owns the 37 model of this tv I was wondering if anyone has experienced this. Whenever I watch a dvd or just cable tv the picture would cut out for a span of 2-3 seconds and it would came back. I watch dvd's through HDMI and tv through component cables. This just recently started happening and was wondering if anyone had experienced this before and how they solved this?

You may try HDMI port 2, see if it still happens. Another HDMI cable? Trouble shoot the DVD player?

I use a PS3 through HDMI 2, no drop outs, and I use the Dish through HDMI 1, no drop outs.

I tried using the HDMI port 2 but it still does the same thing. I also have my ps3 hooked up to HDMI port 2 and just tested it out on the first HDMI port and its working fine. The DVD player works fine and I haven't changed any of the settings so it should work fine. I think your right it might be the HDMI cable, I'm going to swap the ps3 hdmi cable with the dvd player cable and see if it works.

I tried using the HDMI port 2 but it still does the same thing. I also have my ps3 hooked up to HDMI port 2 and just tested it out on the first HDMI port and its working fine. The DVD player works fine and I haven't changed any of the settings so it should work fine. I think your right it might be the HDMI cable, I'm going to swap the ps3 hdmi cable with the dvd player cable and see if it works.

How often does it happen? Every few hours or every few minutes ?

I think the 9630's and later models had a modest pixel-shifting process...I think it was mentioned in HT Magazine a few years ago.

PhilipsPhanatic: in orden to try to reverse burn in with a white solid, plasma needs to be with brightness & contrast set to maximun?? :o

PhilipsPhanatic: in orden to try to reverse burn in with a white solid, plasma needs to be with brightness & contrast set to maximun?? :o

I'm not sure....do you have burn-in ??? :confused:

I'm not sure....do you have burn-in ??? :confused:

Yes, permanent burn in, and I want to try to minimize it using a white solid covering the entire screen, but I'm not sure if I must set brightness and contrast to maximun or just leave them 50% as usual :confused:

Yes, permanent burn in, and I want to try to minimize it using a white solid covering the entire screen, but I'm not sure if I must set brightness and contrast to maximun or just leave them 50% as usual :confused:

I'm not sure either, use Advanced Search to scan for a "Repairing Burn-In" thread or just check the sticky's in the plasma section and read all the pages for the relevant information. Or start a new thread.

How did you get burn-in; are you sure it's not IR ??:confused:

I have this tv for a long time now and forget. Does it have a QAM tuner. i'm thinking now cus its older and will prob want to upgrade to one that does sooner then later as i may hav a use for the qam tuner.

42pf9630 doesnt' have qam right?

47pfl7432D does though i know and will prob upgrade to that.

I have this tv for a long time now and forget. Does it have a QAM tuner. i'm thinking now cus its older and will prob want to upgrade to one that does sooner then later as i may hav a use for the qam tuner.

The 9631 and 9731 have QAM tuners as I recall but the 9630 has no built-in tuner as I recall -- am I correct, 9630 owners ???

That would mean that the 9630 cannot show HDTV without a STB or CC, right ?

no, 9630 has a tuner also. I get HD over antenna with it. I have the 42PF9630A\37.

Yeah, the 9630's have QAM/ASTC. I use it whenever I decide not to keep a cable box. I just wish they'd add the TVGOS back because it was handy. Also, for burn in you don't need to make a white DVD, it's easier just to get a simple NTSC white jpg and put it on a usb stick and display it directly on the TV from the USB port. Put you contrast and brightness to the highest it will go and leave it for an hour at a time and check for burn in. Also, the anti-aging circuit is the "speckle" noise you see when you get really close. The circuit randomly orbits the the pixels to try to help prevent burn in (though it obviously still can suffer from it). FYI, I accidentally left my DVD menu on my TV for EIGHT hours and it burned into my set. Fortunately about an hour of use cleared it. I've got ~8000 hrs. on my set. As the set gets older, you will notice more ghosting and more image retention, especially when you first turn it on.

FYI, I accidentally left my DVD menu on my TV for EIGHT hours and it burned into my set. Fortunately about an hour of use cleared it. I've got ~8000 hrs. on my set. As the set gets older, you will notice more ghosting and more image retention, especially when you first turn it on.

Im using the Philips Upconverting DVD player. And it goes to a floating logo on a black screen if there is no activity on the TV after several minutes.

Here is my repair story...

Well, I get to try the repair part too. I am having a horizontal bar appear accross the screen, the bar is about 20% of the screen height, about 1/3 of the way down the screen. The bar is transparant, but it is darker than the rest of the screen. Switching inputs used to make it go away, but not anymore. Different input, different channel, still there most of the time. Some times it flickers on and off, really annoying.

Looking at it closer, it was 1/6 of the screen, just above center line. When it looked darker, it was because every other line was out (black, no image at all). The flickering was the lines turning on and off. Some days it would do this non stop, but of course, when the repair guy comes, it won't do it at all... I did have a picture to show him though.

He ordered a part (Y Buffer Upper board) It controls the top half image, and there are 3 cables to it. (one for each top 1/3 of the screen.) Near each cable were 2 heat sinks, so whatever processor is under one of the sinks, was failing.

Part cost: 134.42
Labor: 299.99
Warrenty: Priceless...

Hopefully, that is the fix. I will pay special attention for the next few days, if that wasn't it, they will try something else.

Hi, I just came across this thread and have some questions about my 2-year old Philips 42PF9630A TV. You guys seem to really know what you are talking about, can you offer some adivce?

1. I have never been able to use the Dual Tuner function on the TV. Anyone have any why not? At this time I am using both component inputs and one of the HDMI units. Can't get anything on the right screen when I go into side-by-side mode, always says "no source available"

2. Are there any drawbacks to using the following features at these settings? I have no idea if they make a difference:
-Digital processing: Standard or Pixel Plus?
-Dynamic contrast: I have it set to medium
-DNR: I have it set to medium
-Color enhancement: I have it set to Yes
-Active Control: set to Medium

3. What does the "Swivel" button do on the remote?

You guys seem to really know what you are talking about, can you offer some adivce?

Yes we do.....and yes. :D

1. I have never been able to use the Dual Tuner function on the TV. Anyone have any why not? At this time I am using both component inputs and one of the HDMI units. Can't get anything on the right screen when I go into side-by-side mode, always says "no source available"

First, don't use the side-by-side since the bright yellow is a potential (definite) burn-in problem.

You want to use the digital/HDMI PIP, I presume. You need a second tuner besides the TV's tuner. I have a STB from my cable company and I use the QAM tuner for my 9631.

Easiest way to do it: split your signal so the TV has it's own cable INPUT to the (QAM) TV tuner. Then put on a digital channel that comes through the cable signal directly to the TV -- this is through the input called "TV". Then hit PIP and a second box will appear. Then hit the RIGHT SIDE of the circular toggle and the PIP box turns yellow. That indicates that the TV functions are now affecting the little PIP box. The main TV and big PIP box are getting their signal via the input called TV; change the one on the little yellow PIP box to AV1 or whatever you have your STB set to.

Remember to left-toggle the PIP box at the end so you don't leave it with a bright yellow border. You can also move the PIP box around by hitting the color buttons.

2. Are there any drawbacks to using the following features at these settings? I have no idea if they make a difference:
-Digital processing: Standard or Pixel Plus?
-Dynamic contrast: I have it set to medium
-DNR: I have it set to medium
-Color enhancement: I have it set to Yes
-Active Control: set to Medium

Generally, use PP -- it improves processing on bad SD pictures. I don't detect any difference on HD or SD (I get good SD).

The next 3 features: doesn't matter that much. See our Settings posts a few pages back on the this thread or check out the 9631/9731 threads.

Active Control: avoid MAX as it makes it too dark. Most of us have it to OFF but MIN or MED won't kill the overall PQ.

3. What does the "Swivel" button do on the remote?

It allows you to move the picutre up/down and left/right on HD pictures. It also allows you to slide the little PIP box up or down, left or right. It also moves controls from the big PIP box to the little PIP box (and also from the left to the right side-by-side, but don't use that PIP feature).

Hope this helps.;)

PhilipsPhanatic - Thanks so much for the help, very useful... more questions have come to mind though.

First off, I am confused by your advice on using the Dual Tuner - If I understand you correctly, having side-by-side picture is never suggested, and instead I have to use the picture-in-picture mode with one of those floating small boxes that I can move around? Am I understanding you correctly? (I hate those, one of my primary reasons for buying the TV was because it featured dual screen PIP)...

Also, I thought everyone says that newer Plasmas are immune to perm burn-in, is this just some fable being spread by the ignorant (or maybe manufacturers of Plasmas?)

Anyway more random questions:

1) Is there any need to update the firmware?

2) Do you think I should buy spare ambilights and hold on to them before they become rare, or do you think they should last for many, many years to the point where I won't care about the TV anyway?

3) Do other manufacturers incorporate Ambilight? I have only heard of Philips doing this. From this point forward I can't see myself ever buying a TV without it.

4) How the hell did CNET give this TV a 6.2?!? I couldn't find any TV back in late 2005 that came close to offering the features this TV featured at that price and (not being a "videophile") I find the picture to be fantastic... oh well

One more question, is this TV considered 1080i or 720p? Does it support both? The resolution seemed unusual and I never really knew which it was.

No seriously, last question.

Has anyone had an issue with the TV breifly turning itself off and then automatically turning back on?

This happens rarely when I am watching DVD's through my Denons S-301 using the HDMI connection.

Do not use PIP in the side by side, you can get burn in, and I did. That bright yellow box is the culprit. A dimn color would have been much better. When using the small pic, the yellow box will go away when the main pic is selected. Also you can move the image around.

Yes you need separate inputs to view different material in PIP, they cannot be on the same input. I also found one item must be a digital signal for it to work. I had analog cable directly into the TV, and a PS2 on AV2. I could only see 1 screen when both were analog, but if I found a digital station (9.1 instead of 9) I could see both pictures then.

I owuld say update to the latest firmware if you aren't. There were some black screen issues that others had if you read through the last almost 100 pages. Some firmware issues fixed some of this up. I never had the issue, so I don't remember 100%. There has not been a firmware update in some time though, so you might already be up to date.

This set is 720P. It is impossible to be 1080i since there are only 768 lines or resolution. I know that is a weird number, but hey thats how plasmas were from 2005. I don't know if they have changed since then or not, since I have been happy with this set and haven't been researching for any future purchases.

Chia nailed it, Shades.

Sounds like you have the dreaded BSOD -- Black Screen Of Death. Firmware from August '06 fixes the problem. Verify the software version you are runnning now; chances are it predates the updates for BSOD and maybe 1 more since then (the newest one also has the BSOD fix).

Again: PIP side-by-side has a bright yellow border which WILL lead to burnin. I know you would like to use it; I suggest you contact Philips and get them to offer a software fix that turns the bright yellow to the dull gray that the small PIP box has when you toggle off the bright yellow (when you're controlling features in it, it's yellow -- when controlling the big main PIP box, it's gray). I wouldn't mind using side-by-side every now and then, but I won't use it for more than a 5-second display to a friend as long as it has that bright yellow border.

Again: when using PIP one of your boxes is going to be on a digital channel (probably Hi-Def) that your cable company gives for FREE without a STB. These channels usually have numbers like 2.1, 5.2, etc. They're digital variants of the network or PBS stations. You can have the other box on ANY station you want -- HD, SD, whatever -- using the cable or satellite STB.

1) Is there any need to update the firmware?

Yes, especially for BSOD which is a major glitch. On other changes, the improvements might be minor and you might note even notice the improvement (i.e., HDMI picture is irrelevant if you use component cables). For that reason, it pays to keep the older versions of software on your PC or USB stick -- labled differently than the name you downloaded it from the Philips website -- so that if you need to 'go back' to an older version (say if an upgrade for some reason made your TV worse, it does happen :mad: ) you can. The 9630 and 9631 should be getting fewer upgrades as time goes on since they are no longer the front-line Philips plasmas.

2) Do you think I should buy spare ambilights and hold on to them before they become rare, or do you think they should last for many, many years to the point where I won't care about the TV anyway?

Good question, personally if Philips made the announcement that they were getting out of plasmas and/or ditching Ambilight, I might get a backup plasma at a good price and either store it or use it in a room that saw minimal TV use (so it last a long time). But Philips still has Ambilight on LCD's (although how long they stay in LCD's if they ever dropped plasma is a good question). Other manufacturers could adopt Ambilight (but not use that name) but so far, nobody has. Surprised they haven't, but.....

3) Do other manufacturers incorporate Ambilight? I have only heard of Philips doing this. From this point forward I can't see myself ever buying a TV without it.

Nope and yup. Nobody else has Ambilight or anything like it (they can have side lights but can't call it 'Ambilight') and I agree: I LOVE Ambilight and would hate to have a 2nd or 3rd TV without it (especially in a room where I watched lots of TV in the dark) but so far nobody else has it. Of course, you can always set up your own backlighting system but that costs $$$, time, and would never look or work as good as Ambilight, IMO.

Ambilight is a killer tech, IMO. I've told Philips execs that -- they ran commercials featuring it for a while -- but compared to their other businesses, plasmas and LCD's, with or without Ambilight, might not be in their future. :(

4) How the hell did CNET give this TV a 6.2?!? I couldn't find any TV back in late 2005 that came close to offering the features this TV featured at that price and (not being a "videophile") I find the picture to be fantastic... oh well

It's a popularity contest among internet masses. AVS is much more seletive and has better reviews and analysis. We detect problems with sets long before other websites (the bulbs on the Sony LCD's in 2004, the BSOD problem with the 9630/31's, etc).

Thanks once again... I thought I would just have to live with the screen blackout problem, never updated the firmware (bought TV in Dec 05) and I can't believe I didn't think of that.

To be honest a part of me was slightly hoping the problem would net me a free TV from Best Buy (I have a 3 year warranty, though not sure how stingy BB is with their warranty policy). Regardless if that fixes it so be it. I love this TV.

Do you think it is likely Philips leaves the market? That would be shame.

Back to the issue of burn-in, as I mentioned earlier, I was under the impression that Burin-in was no longer an issue with Plasma TVs (at least, that is what everyone kept telling me).

So it seems this is not the case, are there any other obvious ways to get burn-in I am not aware of from day-to-day uses? I don't tend to leave the screen idle and most devices I have automatically go into screen savers whenever they are idle (Wii, PS3 and Denon S-301 are the main devices I have running through it)

Back to the issue of burn-in, as I mentioned earlier, I was under the impression that Burin-in was no longer an issue with Plasma TVs (at least, that is what everyone kept telling me).

With normal TV viewing, it isn't. With games, it's a possibility. And with the side-by-side PIP, it's almost a certainty -- you can't come up with a WORSE color than the bright yellow line dividing the PIP's.

So it seems this is not the case, are there any other obvious ways to get burn-in I am not aware of from day-to-day uses? I don't tend to leave the screen idle and most devices I have automatically go into screen savers whenever they are idle (Wii, PS3 and Denon S-301 are the main devices I have running through it). I always use the SLEEP function and put it on for 2 or 3 hours when I watch late-nigth in case I fall asleep and a fixed image somehow comes up from a DVD, VCR, or even a TV. At a minimum, you turn the TV off after a few hours instead of waking up 8 hours later with it still running.

Screen savers are fine....but you can just switch the TV input to one with TV and leave the game input alone....also, beware of DVD/PVR with the timer and recording symbols at the bottom of the TV (bright white/red can BI or Image Retention).

Avoid playing games for long periods of time....take breaks....switch games....put the TV on (pause the game) via another input for a few minutes while you take a short bathroom/snack/phone break, etc. Anything that breaks up the monotony of the image on the screen is good.

Fixed, bright, non-moving images cause IR and BI....this is almost always devices. The CLOCK button can cause IR/BI (got mild IR leaving my clock on for 20 minutes; gone within a few hours); I guess leaving the OSM on can do it, and you know about the S-by-S PIP.

Hi gang - stumbled on to this site and hopefully one you can help. I purchased my set two years ago and it worked fine until one day, it would not turn on. When you plug it in and try to turn it on, it goes through the start up routine, the ambi lights start to come on then you hear a relay click and everything goes dead except for the power light. The red power light blinks seven times then pauses and repeats. I am out of warrantly...live in Arizona where there is only one support shop and they are waaaaay to far to drive to. My experiece with Philips tech support has been down right scary.

Even if a repair shop was close by...I dont see paying $100 to have it looked at....$400 for a board replacement....another $200 tech fee. So as it stands, I have a $2000.00 good looking paper weight.

I have found a site where you can buy used parts with a small warranty for a very reasonable price. Now all I need to do is find out what is broken.

The one thing I should say is that we used the Tv a lot for a game cube that used the AV side ports. My kids would pull and push the RCA plugs a lot when swithing between games. That was the last thing we did right before the failure.

I guess what I'm asking is if there is a list of fault codes out there that will tell me what the 7 blinks then pause is?

Thanks

Peculiar, use Advanced Search to look for "7 blinking lights" or other similar phrases in the Plasma Section....or just scan this Thread from the early pages back in 2005. I think I recall a few people getting that error message (I think -- could be Pioneer or Panny, but I thought I remembered Philips).

How do the newer models that are comparable to my 2005 42" plasma compare?

A friend offered me 500 for my TV, which I could apply to getting one of the newer models, but I don't see a point in doing so. Is the picture worth the difference?

PhilipsPhanatic -

How do you search within a forum thread (such as this one). The overall search simply brings up the entire thread. That's way too much to look through.

Has anyone compiled a list of error codes for this set for pubic consumption? I looking for which board is likely the suspect when the power on led blinks 7 times, pauses, then 7 again - all in the red light.

Thanks

Hello All - I own a 50PF9966 Philips 50" Plasma since Dec 04. I recently had an issue with the ambilight (quit working, circuit board failed) and its on its way back to me. Besides being very pricey when I bought it (6K +), and weighing in at 127 pounds, I love it. Once hung, its awesome. at 16:9 and running 1080i, its incredible. I'm not sure of how many colors we see but at 1080i, its vivid. We sit approx. 20 ft. from the panel and its as if we are looking out a window. My Blu-Ray player connected via my Onkyo 894 Receiver (HDMI) is incredible as well. My Philips connected to the HD Satellite receiver provides almost 100 channels of HD TV - just incredible. I am an extremely please with the set and should this one get to a point of not providing the capabilities I want in an HDTV, I will buy Philips again. Hopefully not at the price I bought this one.

Cary

Hello All - I own a 50PF9966 Philips 50" Plasma since Dec 04. I recently had an issue with the ambilight (quit working, circuit board failed) and its on its way back to me. Besides being very pricey when I bought it (6K +), and weighing in at 127 pounds, I love it. Once hung, its awesome. at 16:9 and running 1080i, its incredible. I'm not sure of how many colors we see but at 1080i, its vivid. We sit approx. 20 ft. from the panel and its as if we are looking out a window. My Blu-Ray player connected via my Onkyo 894 Receiver (HDMI) is incredible as well. My Philips connected to the HD Satellite receiver provides almost 100 channels of HD TV - just incredible. I am an extremely please with the set and should this one get to a point of not providing the capabilities I want in an HDTV, I will buy Philips again. Hopefully not at the price I bought this one. Cary

Glad you like the Philips, but isn't the TV 720p?

Do you really watch from 20' away ???

Also, if you bought in late 2004 I would have thought the set was alot less than $6,000, no ?

Finally, what did the circuit board have to do with the Ambilight ?

PhilipsPhanatic - How do you search within a forum thread (such as this one). The overall search simply brings up the entire thread. That's way too much to look through. Has anyone compiled a list of error codes for this set for pubic consumption? I looking for which board is likely the suspect when the power on led blinks 7 times, pauses, then 7 again - all in the red light. Thanks

Blinking error code assistance, someone ?? :confused:

Peculiar, use the Advanced Search and be specific (and/or use quotation marks). Search only within the "Plasma" threads, not the entire AVS Forum. I'm not sure how to only look within a particular thread -- anybody help ? :confused:

And with the side-by-side PIP, it's almost a certainty -- you can't come up with a WORSE color than the bright yellow line dividing the PIP's.
[/size]

Can't Philips fix this with a bios upgrade, & if they can WHY HAVEN'T THEY? :confused:

Also, this is a great time of year to have a plasma, Football, Hockey & into October, Baseball all in HD, AWSOME:)

Consumer Reports just listed their choice for the most reliable Plasma TV's, and Philips was not mentioned. Does anyone know where Philips did come in on the list? They also discouraged buying extended warranties since the new TV's are very reliable.

The capabilities of the Philips 50PF9966 HDTV 1920 x1080i or 1280 x 720p. And yes, 20 foot away. Yes, with the mounting brackets (required to hang over my fireplace and to get a little height) cables and such, the bill came in over $6200.00. The base price of the TV was around 5950.00. I am not sure about the circuit board except that the repairman said there was a small circuit card associated with the ambilight.

Consumer Reports just listed their choice for the most reliable Plasma TV's, and Philips was not mentioned. Does anyone know where Philips did come in on the list? They also discouraged buying extended warranties since the new TV's are very reliable.

Not sure how Philips ranks, but I think they came out OK.

I disagree with the warranty notion. As long as you can get 3 years for about 20-25% of the purchase price, it's good insurance. The sets are more reliable than even 2 years ago, but I still would get it UNLESS you bought a super-cheap model for $1,000 or less. The more expensive the TV, the better the warranty insurance is.

Hi-Def Channel Conundrum:A friend's 9630 gets HD via FiOS and the other night I noticed that a bunch of HD channels (ESPN, ESPN2 mostly) had 3-4" black borders at the bottom. I couldn't toggle down to eliminate them.

Then I realized that he had ALL of the Picture Format settings available -- AUTOMATIC, 4:3, 16:9 w/subtitle, WIDESCREEN, etc. That isn't supposed to be, right? On my HD (via STB and Cablevision) I only have AUTOMATIC and WIDESCREEN available when watching an HD channel, and each has the same effect -- NONE (unless it's an HD channel that is 4:3 aspect ratio) -- on the picture.

Anyway, when I re-hit AUTOMATIC the picture filled the screen.

But why is AUTOMATIC having any affect at all on a HD picture? And why is the TV reading the signal, an HD one, as being able to give all 7 picture formats?

These seems like a FiOS glitch more than a problem with his Philips -- anybody got any comments ?

Watch The Light Fantastic!

http://www.empireonline.com/promotions/aurea/

Hi-Def Channel Conundrum:A friend's 9630 gets HD via FiOS and the other night I noticed that a bunch of HD channels (ESPN, ESPN2 mostly) had 3-4" black borders at the bottom. I couldn't toggle down to eliminate them.

Then I realized that he had ALL of the Picture Format settings available -- AUTOMATIC, 4:3, 16:9 w/subtitle, WIDESCREEN, etc. That isn't supposed to be, right? On my HD (via STB and Cablevision) I only have AUTOMATIC and WIDESCREEN available when watching an HD channel, and each has the same effect -- NONE (unless it's an HD channel that is 4:3 aspect ratio) -- on the picture.

Anyway, when I re-hit AUTOMATIC the picture filled the screen.

But why is AUTOMATIC having any affect at all on a HD picture? And why is the TV reading the signal, an HD one, as being able to give all 7 picture formats?

These seems like a FiOS glitch more than a problem with his Philips -- anybody got any comments ?


No real comments on the solution, but you are correct my 9630 is the same way with STB HD, only auto and widescreen available. Just wanted to confirm that your not crazy;)

No real comments on the solution, but you are correct my 9630 is the same way with STB HD, only auto and widescreen available. Just wanted to confirm that your not crazy;)

Nah, I'm still crazy, but the TV is still acting weird.....;)

Watch The Light Fantastic!
http://www.empireonline.com/promotions/aurea/

Awesome technolgoy....but WGAF ??

This reminds me of the 4mms response Aptura technology which was ahead of everybody else in LCD-land by 12-15 months. Philips killed it just as it was coming on strongly. Ditto their LCoS rear-projection units.

Is this plasma technology coming to the states? If so, where ? I can't see Philips TV's anymore at BB or CC.

Awesome technolgoy....but WGAF ??

This reminds me of the 4mms response Aptura technology which was ahead of everybody else in LCD-land by 12-15 months. Philips killed it just as it was coming on strongly. Ditto their LCoS rear-projection units.

Is this plasma technology coming to the states? If so, where ? I can't see Philips TV's anymore at BB or CC.


http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp;jsessionid=TJF4XYXEIBSY1KC4D3FVAHQ?_dyncharset=I SO-8859-1&id=pcat17071&type=page&st=philips+HDTV&sc=Global&cp=1&nrp=15&sp=&qp=&list=n&iht=y&usc=All+Categories&ks=960

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp;jsessionid=TJF4XYXEIBSY1KC4D3FVAHQ?_dyncharset=I SO-8859-1&id=pcat17071&type=page&st=philips+HDTV&sc=Global&cp=1&nrp=15&sp=&qp=&list=n&iht=y&usc=All+Categories&ks=960

Those are LCD's and I do see 1 or 2 at BB retail stores, but not the whole lineup and NO plasmas. :confused::confused:

I see a 42" and 50" plasma. You looking at the same page?

I see a 42" and 50" plasma. You looking at the same page?

No, saw those models but not the 9731 or other up-scale models with more-advanced PixelPlus and Ambilight. :confused:

Has there been a newer firmware update for the 9630 since last year?

Has there been a newer firmware update for the 9630 since last year?

I havent seen any. I heard they stopped supporting the 9630, therefore no more updates.

I havent seen any. I heard they stopped supporting the 9630, therefore no more updates.

If the sets are running good, no need for new ones.

I do wish Philips would interact with older owners of sets to get our suggestions for new upgrades. No reason why they can't change the color on the side-by-side PIP and other minute changes. At this point, most of the firmware upgrades are easy cosmetic changes and not in-depth technical fixes so they wouldn't require tons of R&D.

If the sets are running good, no need for new ones.

I do wish Philips would interact with older owners of sets to get our suggestions for new upgrades. No reason why they can't change the color on the side-by-side PIP and other minute changes. At this point, most of the firmware upgrades are easy cosmetic changes and not in-depth technical fixes so they wouldn't require tons of R&D.

I totally agree that changing the color of the side-by-side PIP should be considered, even at this point in the product's life. It would probably only be a 5 minute fix for some programmer and would make a lot of owners happy, which is a good thing to have when said owners are shopping for new TV's. :)

Is PHILIPS still selling plamas in the US? Here in Argentina they stopped entirely 6 months ago. It's a shame :( because they offered the best price/product/features of the market (even when the panels itself were manufactured by Samsung).
Anyhow, I'm sure that Ambilight will still be available in the higher end LCD models...can't imagine watching anything without Ambilight right now!
The 42PF9630 was a very nice model, but I totally agree with CNET. The TV has a major flaw that is false contouring, And I believe the panel is really Burn In / IR sensitive (where is the "anti ageing circuit"??).

Past that, I haven't any electronic failure. The TV works great and the PQ is very good (while NOT excellent).

Why manufacturers are saying goodbye to plasmas?? Sony and now PHILIPS. It bothers me a lot. :mad:

Is PHILIPS still selling plamas in the US? Here in Argentina they stopped entirely 6 months ago. It's a shame :( because they offered the best price/product/features of the market (even when the panels itself were manufactured by Samsung). Anyhow, I'm sure that Ambilight will still be available in the higher end LCD models...can't imagine watching anything without Ambilight right now! The 42PF9630 was a very nice model, but I totally agree with CNET. The TV has a major flaw that is false contouring, And I believe the panel is really Burn In / IR sensitive (where is the "anti ageing circuit"??). Past that, I haven't any electronic failure. The TV works great and the PQ is very good (while NOT excellent). Why manufacturers are saying goodbye to plasmas?? Sony and now PHILIPS. It bothers me a lot. :mad:

Darth, they're selling in the mass-retail outlets a plasma model without Ambilight and other top-end features.

I agree with all your points. I do believe the 9630 and 9631's had pixel shifting to prevent IR/BI.

I'd live with a plasma without that feature as common-sense prevents 99% of all IR/BI. I don't want to do without Ambilight and the Automatic stretch feature. Just saw my friend's DLP set and without the Automatic it's a nightmare going from HD to SD, 16:9 to 4:3. :mad:

Sony and Philips are exiting plasma because they can't make enough $$$ there. In fact, they lose money. The MIGHT make marginal $$$ on LCD if the pricing improves.

The flip-side to low prices for us consumers is that manufacturers leave, competition decreases, quality goes down (because the profits aren't high enough to justify improvements), and we lose great sets and/or features (Ambilight, APTURA, etc.).

Everything I have ever heard or read recently by so called flat panel experts is telling consumers plasma is the best picture. And I understand Panasonic is deep in production of plasma. Why the push for LCD?

Everything I have ever heard or read recently by so called flat panel experts is telling consumers plasma is the best picture. And I understand Panasonic is deep in production of plasma. Why the push for LCD?

(1) There is more production facilities for LCD since that also goes into the making for PC monitors and other products (watches, consumer electronics, etc).

(2) The plasma MARGINAL cost advantage (taking out fixed costs and costs of scale) disappears vs. LCD when you manufacture 1080p technology. It's a technical or physics thing, I think.

(1) There is more production facilities for LCD since that also goes into the making for PC monitors and other products (watches, consumer electronics, etc).

(2) The plasma MARGINAL cost advantage (taking out fixed costs and costs of scale) disappears vs. LCD when you manufacture 1080p technology. It's a technical or physics thing, I think.

he is right...

don´t forget also that the number of manufacturers of plasma panels is really small in comparation with LCD panels manufacturers...

everyone is saying plasma will die...but it is due to this maketing/profits stuff...

it is a shame, but LCD will cause plasma exctinction in the near future...

I love PDPs, I think it is still the BEST displaying technology but you know, consumers and manufacturers rules the market :mad:

Can LCoS technology be incorporated into a flat-panel technology ???

he is right...

don´t forget also that the number of manufacturers of plasma panels is really small in comparation with LCD panels manufacturers...

everyone is saying plasma will die...but it is due to this maketing/profits stuff...

it is a shame, but LCD will cause plasma exctinction in the near future...

I love PDPs, I think it is still the BEST displaying technology but you know, consumers and manufacturers rules the market :mad:

They sure are showing lots of nice Plasma's at the CES in Las Vegas!

Is this the end of this thread?

Is this the end of this thread?

probably, unless you guys want to just throw around unimportant banter ;)

probably, unless you guys want to just throw around unimportant banter ;)

Still plenty to talk about:

(1) Hours of use -- who's getting up there, anybody at 5,000 hourrs? 10,000? How's the set still working?

(2) Ambilight still working along with TV ?

(3) ISF calibration -- worth it or no difference ?

(4) Blu-Ray -- how's it work on the 9630/9631? Much better than regular DVD or about the same ?

Useless banter, my remote ! ;)

Still plenty to talk about:

(1) Hours of use -- who's getting up there, anybody at 5,000 hourrs? 10,000? How's the set still working?

(2) Ambilight still working along with TV ?

(3) ISF calibration -- worth it or no difference ?

(4) Blu-Ray -- how's it work on the 9630/9631? Much better than regular DVD or about the same ?

Useless banter, my remote ! ;)

I have about 2,000 hours of use. Working beautifully. Great Ambilight too. Very satisfied with my Philips performance. Lots of compliments. Im told by experts that in a 42" plasma a 720p looks as sharp as a 1080p. And it's only in a larger size can you tell the difference. Is that a fact? I have the Philips Upconverting DVD player on mine and the movies look fantastic.

Plasma is alive and well! Read from the CES in Vegas:

http://www.hdtvexpert.com/pages_b/ces2008.html

I have about 2,000 hours of use. Working beautifully. Great Ambilight too. Very satisfied with my Philips performance. Lots of compliments. Im told by experts that in a 42" plasma a 720p looks as sharp as a 1080p. And it's only in a larger size can you tell the difference. Is that a fact? I have the Philips Upconverting DVD player on mine and the movies look fantastic.

I have a 9631 and just crossed 2700 PDP hours (the lower figure) about a week ago (got the set Sept. '06, so averaging about 6 hours per day, skewed to weekends).

Yes, 1080p benefits with larger size and/or closer distance. Also, 1080p sets get indirect benefits because they tend to have extra features aside from 1080p -- for instance, the Philips 1080p LCD sets are great not necessarily because of 1080p but because they have a fast mili-second response rate (< 4 mm/sec).

Does Philips have a Blu-Ray player out there? Anybody got one ?

I have an opportunity to get this TV for $465. It is supposed to be in "mint" condition, but I don't know how many hours have been clocked. Do you think it's worth a shot?

"Included:
Philips 42PF9630A/37 Plasma TV
Table-Top Stand
Remote Control
User Manual"

I have an opportunity to get this TV for $465. It is supposed to be in "mint" condition, but I don't know how many hours have been clocked. Do you think it's worth a shot?

"Included:
Philips 42PF9630A/37 Plasma TV
Table-Top Stand
Remote Control
User Manual"

Mine has more than 6000 hours and still working flawlessly. Ambilight too works fine, it just goes crazy inexplicably for a few seconds with some movies (3:10 to Yuma was the last one).
I did not try Blu Ray but I tried 1080i HDV thru components, and certainly you can tell the difference from regular DVDs (not seen differences with PHILIPS upscaling player).
The only complaints I have about this TV is:

-it has image retention quite easily (they go immediatly when the picture changes) but it's quite annoying to see subtitles shadows when the ending titles sroll up in a black scene.
-picture is a bit noise (don't you see small green points over the screen, especially when the TV starts?)
-a LOT of false contouring with home videos (quite few with regular movies).

Anyhow, quite pleased with the TV. And I'm not sure that PHILIPS showed new plasma models at CES 2008 (they phased out the plasma market in 2007). PHILIPS has a Blu Ray player but it is expensive.

Hey, $400 for this TV? Check it well before you buy :confused:
-

Thanks, I will. Btw, here is the link...
http://houston.craigslist.org/ele/531348326.html

I am in the local area, so I can check it out before hand. Anything in particular I should be looking for?

Thanks again.

absolutely!

check for Burn In (watch footage that fills the screen and search for logos, bars and spots).
check the Service Menu to get the running operational time of the plasma

What does contouring mean?

What does contouring mean?

False contouring? I think it means blurry or non-sharp images, but I could be off. :confused:

Does anyone have their setting posted for the 50pf9630a-37 ? (contrast, brightness.......ect)


Please help!

Does anyone have their setting posted for the 50pf9630a-37 ? (contrast, brightness.......ect) Please help!

They're all over the beginning of the 9630 and 9631 User Threads, plus another dozen or so in the Philips Tips Sheet (PM me your email if you don't have it).

Is your set new or do you just want sample settings for regular use ?

They're all over the beginning of the 9630 and 9631 User Threads, plus another dozen or so in the Philips Tips Sheet (PM me your email if you don't have it).

Is your set new or do you just want sample settings for regular use ?

It's 2 years old. The only hd source feeded into the tv is Direct tv. I'm looking for some calibrated settings for hdmi from someone who knows there stuff. I'll pm you my e-mail.
Thanks

False contouring? I think it means blurry or non-sharp images, but I could be off. :confused:


False contouring refers to the lack of smooth transition between shades of colors or shades of gray. That is not the sharpness or blurriness per se.

Well, its been a year since BestBuy replaced my Philips 42PF9630A television with a Sharp LCD HDTV under the extended warranty. BestBuy and Sharp have replaced my Sharp 4 times since then due to various problems. I am now on my 5th one, and it appears to be a keeper. I wonder what percentage of the 42PF9630A televisions are still out there and functioning out of the total number built?

False contouring refers to the lack of smooth transition between shades of colors or shades of gray. That is not the sharpness or blurriness per se.

False contouring is TYPICAL of plasma displays. While some units displays A LOT of this artifact, others do not at all.

Being the PHILIPS 9630 a Samsung plasma panel, it has TERRIBLE false contouring artifacts, especially during fast pans of home made movies (even in HD).

It cannot be fixed. But most of the times is quite unnoticeable. CAN YOU LIVE WITH IT? :o

Ive had mine 3 years and never a problem. Great HD picture too!

hAVING A PROBLEM WITH UNIT NOT GETTING TO A RASTER. SET RELAY CLICKS THEN BLUE LIGHT FLASHES FOR A FEW SECONDS THEN RED LIGHT DOES A ONE QUICK FLASH. TRIED REPLACING POWER SUPPLY (NEW FROM FACTORY) STILL SAME PROBLEM. VS AND VA VOLTAGES NEVER COME UP, EVEN WITH THE X & Y BOARDS DISCONNECTED. ??????

Is this forum finished???

I have had my 9630 for nearly three years now, and it has performed very well. However, yesterday I encountered my first problem. Used my Harmony remote to turn on the Watch TV activity...DVR is on...Receiver turns on...9630 turns on and sound starts coming out of the receiver (HDMI runs from the DVR to the TV, then sound runs from the TV to the receiver). However, no picture. The screen was active, but it was all black, like the black screen you would see between commercials or something (i.e., the screen wasn't completely dead).

I thought it was the DVR, but using my Philips remote and hitting the Menu, Format, etc., buttons didn't activate anything on the screen that I could see, which it should even if the brightness was turned all the way to zero.

I turned it off and on a few times over the next 30 minutes, then about an hour later turned it on again. Fired up and worked as if nothing had happened. We have it and the DVR on a battery backup, so I don't think that there was a power issue.

Perhaps the 9630 overheard me discussing the new Pioneer plasmas and decided to give up? Any ideas? I can't imagine that something like this would be cheap to fix.

Thanks.

I've had this TV for about 1.5 years and it has performed flawlessly. Recently, I decided to have a cablecard installed by Comcast. The cable guy came today and put the cablecard in the slot and then tried to set it up using the TV menu. The problem is the CableCard applications menu item (which is supposed to be in the Settings menu) did not appear at all. He tried a few cards, and it would not appear in the menu, so he was not able to install the cablecard.

Has anybody had this issue? I have the latest firmware installed. If there is no cablecard in the slot, does the menu item still show up in the Settings menu for other people? I can't determine if it is a TV problem, installer problem, or maybe all 3 cards he tried were defective. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

I've had this TV for about 1.5 years and it has performed flawlessly. Recently, I decided to have a cablecard installed by Comcast. The cable guy came today and put the cablecard in the slot and then tried to set it up using the TV menu. The problem is the CableCard applications menu item (which is supposed to be in the Settings menu) did not appear at all. He tried a few cards, and it would not appear in the menu, so he was not able to install the cablecard. Has anybody had this issue? I have the latest firmware installed. If there is no cablecard in the slot, does the menu item still show up in the Settings menu for other people? I can't determine if it is a TV problem, installer problem, or maybe all 3 cards he tried were defective. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.


CableCards can be tricky to install, I wouldn't assume that there's a problem with the Philips even if he tried 3 different cards. Could be a software problem on their end.

CableCards can be tricky to install, I wouldn't assume that there's a problem with the Philips even if he tried 3 different cards. Could be a software problem on their end.

Thanks PhilipsPhanatic! Can I assume then that the cablecard the menu item does not show up if there is no cablecard in the slot (or, if it's installed improperly)?

Thanks PhilipsPhanatic! Can I assume then that the cablecard the menu item does not show up if there is no cablecard in the slot (or, if it's installed improperly)?

Possibly...but again, you really need a tech guy who knows what he's doing or another user who is familiar with CableCard to help determine if the problem is on your end or his. Might be an idea to have someone who has a working CableCard to bring theirs over and test it.

Still plenty to talk about:

(1) Hours of use -- who's getting up there, anybody at 5,000 hourrs? 10,000? How's the set still working?

(2) Ambilight still working along with TV ?

(3) ISF calibration -- worth it or no difference ?

(4) Blu-Ray -- how's it work on the 9630/9631? Much better than regular DVD or about the same ?

Useless banter, my remote ! ;)

We bought ours 42PF9637 back in Sept 2005

(1) Hours of use -- We have just passed 5,500 hours - Still working wonderfully- No burn-in . Many of the PLASMA Nay Sayers predicted would get burn-in.

(2) Ambilight ..We wouldn't be without it, its' still working fine

Not jumped to Blu ray yet..maybe at end of the year

What will a cablecard do for my TV? I use DirecTV and may possibly switch to verizon.

We bought ours 42PF9637 back in Sept 2005

(1) Hours of use -- We have just passed 5,500 hours - Still working wonderfully- No burn-in . Many of the PLASMA Nay Sayers predicted would get burn-in.

(2) Ambilight ..We wouldn't be without it, its' still working fine

Not jumped to Blu ray yet..maybe at end of the year

This display is great with blu-ray. Settings needed some tweaking though.

this plasma can suffer temporay image retention if you display static logos more than 10 to 15 minutes...but when the whole picture starts to change, the "burn" goes away almost immediatly...so don't panic

to REALLY burn in this plasma you need to expose it to static images for VERY LONG time...

enjoy it 'cos PHILIPS is selling their entire North American TV division to Funai...

next LCDs (forget about plasma) will be made by Funai (with a PHILIPS logo stamped) and forget about Ambilight

modern times, right?

this plasma can suffer temporay image retention if you display static logos more than 10 to 15 minutes...but when the whole picture starts to change, the "burn" goes away almost immediatly...so don't panic to REALLY burn in this plasma you need to expose it to static images for VERY LONG time...enjoy it 'cos PHILIPS is selling their entire North American TV division to Funai...next LCDs (forget about plasma) will be made by Funai (with a PHILIPS logo stamped) and forget about Ambilightmodern times, right?

Philips may stay in LCD's a while longer....operating margins are better, plus they make the basic components for that overseas. Philips didn't want to totally exit this business for name-recognition reasons; it would hurt their other Consumer Products sales/marketing from the lack of shelf-space of Philips TV's. Farming the division out to Funai allows the name to stay out there.

For now, it appears that the leading technologies and features will stay on the LCD's (I think their new plasma line might have some features -- Ambilight? -- and ClevelandPlasma listed the model numbers somewhere here, but I lost the post/thread and I have no link to the new model plasma specs). The good news is that unless you feel the need to upgrade your HDTV every 2-3 years or so you can have a plasma/LCD from Philips with Ambilight and the other great features for quite some time, assuming the sets hold up. And if Funai really cuts features (quite possible) and/or Philips does likewise on LCDs (or exits/farms out that too), you can buy the last models made and replace your current lineup.

You could also buy one and keep it in storage or put it somewhere where it gets minimal use -- when a heavier-used set goes in a few years, you slide the lightly-used or mothballed set into your HDTV-viewing lineup. You couldn't do that 5-6 years ago when a new set costs $6,000 but now with even 52" models costing $2,000- and under and 42" models costing $1,200 and under, it's not as big a cost to keep one in reserve.

I know I plan on buying either a 52" Philips LCD or a 60" plasma (if it has Ambilight or 1080p) and making that my main TV and sliding my 9631 into my bedroom (where the Ambilight will be used during bedtime viewing). The reduced wear will also let the 9631 last that much longer (if it has another 5,000 hours of life, that might be only 3 years of main viewing, but nightime/bedtime viewing it should be good for 7-10 years).:) Of course, if I get more hours the sets last longer wherever they are. Personally, I think if you get 10,000 trouble-free hours of use from an HDTV, we should all sign up for that on the day of purchase. Anything above that is gravy, IMO. You might want a new one after 5-7 years anyway for cosmetic or technological reasons, and/or you can slide the older set into a lesser-viewed environment.

Sparkles ??? Anybody seeing sparkles on the black screen immediately upon start-up or right after powering-down? It's only a few dozen or so, and once the picture comes on (or goes completely off when powering down), they aren't there anymore. I don't know if it's a static or electrical or processing/signal thing. Assuming it doesn't continually degrade, it's nothing -- it's gone within 2-3 seconds on start-up and it's obviousley gone about the same time after power-down.

I have seen them for months now, and it's really nothing. But considering that I saw a greenish vertical stripe down the left-side of my 9631 plasma the other night, and every now and then the TV picture doesn't show up -- I hear sound but the picture doesn't show up (usually through the ST) -- but when I use TV instead of AV1 (STB) the picture and sound are fine. Then when I goto AV1 (STB) the picture is fine.

It's like the TV has a very rare start-up signal/processing problem. If it stays like this for the rest of the TV's life, if that's the worst, it's nothing. But I'm wondering if anybody else has seen the sparkles against the black screen when powering down (or immediately upon start-up) and if no-picture (but sound) has sometimes happened which requires you to change inputs before going back to the input that had no picture, where it is then OK ??

Sparkles ??? Anybody seeing sparkles on the black screen immediately upon start-up or right after powering-down? It's only a few dozen or so, and once the picture comes on (or goes completely off when powering down), they aren't there anymore. I don't know if it's a static or electrical or processing/signal thing. Assuming it doesn't continually degrade, it's nothing -- it's gone within 2-3 seconds on start-up and it's obviousley gone about the same time after power-down.

I have seen them for months now, and it's really nothing. But considering that I saw a greenish vertical stripe down the left-side of my 9631 plasma the other night, and every now and then the TV picture doesn't show up -- I hear sound but the picture doesn't show up (usually through the ST) -- but when I use TV instead of AV1 (STB) the picture and sound are fine. Then when I goto AV1 (STB) the picture is fine.

It's like the TV has a very rare start-up signal/processing problem. If it stays like this for the rest of the TV's life, if that's the worst, it's nothing. But I'm wondering if anybody else has seen the sparkles against the black screen when powering down (or immediately upon start-up) and if no-picture (but sound) has sometimes happened which requires you to change inputs before going back to the input that had no picture, where it is then OK ??

I see some sparkles when the TV starts. The manual says it's normal so don't panic. Also if you see some green dots all over the screen...well, that's video noise and is "normal" too :(

I see some sparkles when the TV starts. The manual says it's normal so don't panic. Also if you see some green dots all over the screen...well, that's video noise and is "normal" too :(

Good to know, thanks Darth ! :)

The vertical stripe thing freaked me out though. But I've noticed that you can get glitches -- I detailed that when you switch inputs from AV3 (DVD) and AV2 (VCR) to AV1 (STB) you sometimes get those fast-moving horizontal lines (looks like the old 'vacuum cleaner' interference when TV's were affected by nearby electrical appliances). So maybe I'm overreacting.

Hey, the 1st 3,000 hours were a charm with my 9631. I'll sign up for another 3,000 or 6,000 just like it right now. :D

Hey,I was wondering,if anyone still visits this thread,what home theatre systems you guys use with this plasma?
I still have'nt gotten one yet,and I'm starting to look around.I'm a little slow with these things,I just hooked up with an hdmi cable and can't believe how much better the picture is.duh!
Still have'nt hung mine yet either,can anyone tell me what bracket they used,or
remember what page that info is on?
Anyway,back to the theatre thing,I'm not into running wires under my crawlspace and up the walls,so I'm thinking about getting the Philips soundbar,the HTS6100 with Ambisound.
I know it's not 5.1 surround,but I think it'd be fine for what I need,and was wondering if anyone has this and what they think about it.
Thanks for any info

Hey,I was wondering,if anyone still visits this thread,what home theatre systems you guys use with this plasma?
I still have'nt gotten one yet,and I'm starting to look around.I'm a little slow with these things,I just hooked up with an hdmi cable and can't believe how much better the picture is.duh!
Still have'nt hung mine yet either,can anyone tell me what bracket they used,or
remember what page that info is on?
Anyway,back to the theatre thing,I'm not into running wires under my crawlspace and up the walls,so I'm thinking about getting the Philips soundbar,the HTS6100 with Ambisound.
I know it's not 5.1 surround,but I think it'd be fine for what I need,and was wondering if anyone has this and what they think about it.
Thanks for any info

while not being true 5.1 system, the sound bar by PHILIPS got pretty good review in CNET...which is something to consider

it also looks great...

Hey,I was wondering,if anyone still visits this thread,what home theatre systems you guys use with this plasma?

I used a cheaper non-tilting mounting bracket that had a low mount profile (1-1/2"). Can't remember who manufactured it, but there are lots of places out on the internet selling these mounting brackets. I was originally going to go with a Omnimount U3F I think, but found a cheaper one that had some good reviews. I have a Sony DG-910 theater system with a Harmon Kardan HKTS14 speaker set. Harmon Kardan has a factory outlet store on ebay where the sell refurbished units at pretty good prices if your patient. The system will rattle the whole house even though its in the basement. While I had a drop celing to run wires, you could run them along your floor boards. Remove your base molding and notch a channel out to run the wires along then up the walls to each speaker. While I don't know how much they are (I borrowed mine), get a "wall fish" to run the wires up (or down) the wall. It works very well. The surround effect is really worth it. The HKTS is only a 5.1 set, but I would like to add one or two more speakers to make it 6.1 or 7.1 if I can find the matching speakers. Thought I had a picture of my set-up, but can't fint it.

Darth,thanks,I did'nt think to check CNET,good to hear it got good reviews,I'll go there and check it out.It would look cool hanging under this set.

PTXer,thanks for the bracket info,yea,I think the Omnimount was the one everybody said to use back then.
I would consider running wires as you suggested,but I have baseboard heating
on the two walls I'd have to run them,sort of complicates it,plus the wife is against speakers all over the place.Lets see,wife/speakers?,wife/speakers?I'll have to think about that one.
Your system sounds real nice though,thanks for the reply

HDMI vs. Component & the Format Functions: I use component cables right now. The ability to tell the 'natural broadcast' of stations is easy even if I didn't know if it was a SD or HD channel and/or judging by how it looks.

Right now, with an HD channel, all of the Format options EXCEPT AUTOMATIC and WIDESCREEN are blocked out. If the channel is true HD -- EPSN HD, Monsters HD, etc -- then AUTOMATIC and WIDESCREEN look the same. If the channel is like Fox HD and showing an old TV show ("Seinfeld") over the HD signal but it's not true HD, then AUTOMATIC stretches the show to fill the 16:9 screen but WIDESCREEN transforms it back to OAR with a 4:3 ratio with black bars on the left and right side.

Question: How are these broadcast appearances and how does the Format functions change with HDMI, if any ? Right now with component cables, the Philips plasma's Format function seems to always know if it's a 4:3 or 16:9 OAR. But does HDMI get tricked into thinking that it's ALWAYS a 16:9 broadcast since HDMI is 100% digital ?

HDMI vs. Component & the Format Functions: I use component cables right now. The ability to tell the 'natural broadcast' of stations is easy even if I didn't know if it was a SD or HD channel and/or judging by how it looks.

Right now, with an HD channel, all of the Format options EXCEPT AUTOMATIC and WIDESCREEN are blocked out. If the channel is true HD -- EPSN HD, Monsters HD, etc -- then AUTOMATIC and WIDESCREEN look the same. If the channel is like Fox HD and showing an old TV show ("Seinfeld") over the HD signal but it's not true HD, then AUTOMATIC stretches the show to fill the 16:9 screen but WIDESCREEN transforms it back to OAR with a 4:3 ratio with black bars on the left and right side.

Question: How are these broadcast appearances and how does the Format functions change with HDMI, if any ? Right now with component cables, the Philips plasma's Format function seems to always know if it's a 4:3 or 16:9 OAR. But does HDMI get tricked into thinking that it's ALWAYS a 16:9 broadcast since HDMI is 100% digital ?



I have HDMI connected, and mine acts in the same fashion as your component.

I have HDMI connected, and mine acts in the same fashion as your component.

Thanks, Donnie, good to know.

Has anybody seen if Philips has a premium (big size, Ambilight, 120htz processing, PixelPlus, etc) plasma line anymore or is it barebones sets at Costco and Wal-Mart ? I am leaning to a 1080p LCD Philips when I go bigger, rather than stay with a feature-less plasma.

OK, PIP question...

I used to use PIP when I had cable. I had to have a digital station on one of the channels, then the second screen could have anything.

I now have DISH on HDMI1 and my PS3 on HDMI2. Both are digital, but I can only get 1 image to show, nothing shows in the PIP box. Any ideas?

I recently started having problems with my display where the bottom half of the screen starts jumbling the image. When it happens I can turn the set off for a minute or two and it stops. It has also started going to a black screen with a little white at the top with sound and it will also go away if I turn the set off for a bit. The new problem started this evenning when I turned the set and the green power indicator lit up but then the set shut itself off and a red LED flashed slowly six times then quickly three times (I assume that's supposed to stand for error code 63, but I'm just guessing).

I know my unit is under recall for the ambilight (found that out this weekend when I started trying to find out what was going on with the display issue) and I still need to contact Phillips for a service call.

Does anyone have any idea what's going on with this thing? Are all the problems related, are they individual problems requiring different repairs, and what the heck is the flashing red LED telling me?

Thanx in advance...

- wv_armydog

OK, PIP question...I used to use PIP when I had cable. I had to have a digital station on one of the channels, then the second screen could have anything. I now have DISH on HDMI1 and my PS3 on HDMI2. Both are digital, but I can only get 1 image to show, nothing shows in the PIP box. Any ideas?

I think this was addressed pages (months) ago but I'll try again: I think the Philips must be using the TV Input as one of the signals. So you can watch digital TV using the TV's own tuner as 1 PIP signal and then use another -- AV1 for Cable, HDMI1 for Dish or HDMI2 for PS3 -- for the other box. Either one can be the big/small PIP box.

I do not believe that the HDMI's can substitute for the TV input as the designated digital source.

Is that clear? Guys, do I have it right ?

I just received the black screen of death. I was just watching tv and all off the sudden the tv got distorted and it went off. Now there is flashing red light. It seems to be a known issue after researching it. I do have the warranty with circuit city. Has anybody else expreirenced this problem before with a store warranty? Did they try to repair or replace it? If they replace it will I be able to pick a whole new tv since the store does carry them anymore? What value would they give me towards the tv, current or purchased price?

thanks

I just received the black screen of death. I was just watching tv and all off the sudden the tv got distorted and it went off. Now there is flashing red light. It seems to be a known issue after researching it. I do have the warranty with circuit city. Has anybody else expreirenced this problem before with a store warranty? Did they try to repair or replace it? If they replace it will I be able to pick a whole new tv since the store does carry them anymore? What value would they give me towards the tv, current or purchased price? Thanks

That doesn't sound like BSOD, that sounds alot more serious -- BSOD was just a firmware upgrade issue.

It's possible that the firmware you have was fatally flawed and a simple upgrade would fix it -- do you know what software version you were running? Can you get into the OSM to see what version you're running?

Did you ever upgrade firmware in the last 2+ years or so ?:confused:

I'm not sure how CC would treat this since they don't carry ANY Philips products -- probably a store credit. I would get either a Panasonic/Pioneer plasma or a 1080p LCD (Sharp, Sony) as good replacements after doing some AVS research. Of course, I'd try to fix this TV first and then get a similar Philips, if possible (maybe CC gives you cash, but I doubt it).

Good luck...let us know what happens. ;)

That doesn't sound like BSOD, that sounds alot more serious -- BSOD was just a firmware upgrade issue.

It's possible that the firmware you have was fatally flawed and a simple upgrade would fix it -- do you know what software version you were running? Can you get into the OSM to see what version you're running?

Did you ever upgrade firmware in the last 2+ years or so ?:confused:

I'm not sure how CC would treat this since they don't carry ANY Philips products -- probably a store credit. I would get either a Panasonic/Pioneer plasma or a 1080p LCD (Sharp, Sony) as good replacements after doing some AVS research. Of course, I'd try to fix this TV first and then get a similar Philips, if possible (maybe CC gives you cash, but I doubt it).

Good luck...let us know what happens. ;)

Yes i had the most updated firmware. I can't even get the tv to come on, it just has flashing red lights. I called CC and they are coming out Tuesday morning. If they can't repair it then I will definatley go with a Panasonic Plasma if they give me a gift card.

thanks