Serus,

When you updated the software with the USB drive did you get any messages? I havent tried it yet, my set has a manufacturers date of June 05, how about yours?

Oh. I will tell you guys something that was great. I recently came back from a cruise and was able to stick my memory sticks into the panel and it displayed a great slide show complete with transitions. It was really nice to watch. I guess I need to read a little more and find out how to turn on the musical backgrounds.

Heres some info on the Dynamic contrast control:

Dynamic Contrast



Dynamic Contrast stretches dark portions of the picture towards even darker shades, without hiding any fine details, and the light parts of the picture are made whiter, resulting in a more brilliant image with up to 30% more contrast.

i have the rf ...it can lag

you could drill 2 holes and snake them dwn the wall..instead of putting your stuff in the closet

STI-What kind of RF do you have?

Question, I've got this cable that came with the set. It's got what looks like a headphone jack on one end, and two sensors on the other end, they kind of look like LED lights. What is this used for? I think it's an IR blaster/extention, but not sure how it would be used..

I would like to know what that is too. I haven't been able to find anything in the manuals about it. Anyone know?

By the way, it did fit in our 2005 CRV- barely. It looks great in the living room!

Anybody else have any dead pixels on their display.. I noticed one last night, but only when I was about a foot away from the TV when it was in Menu Mode. Its completely dead, not stuck at a certain colour, just black.

Is this normal to get a dead pixel or two? Or should I be asking for a replacement? :confused:

I'm a little concerned as it is over the buzzing issue. Should this set be making that noise. I'm around 1000 ft below the altitude level philips lists for the set, so should the set NOT be making this noise? :(

Anyone else around 5000 ft or so got one of these sets?

for my upcoming 30th B'day (yippeeeeeee), I was very much set on a panny 42px50.
However, the new Hitachi's and this philips has me singing a different tune.
I know the panny thread has tons of pics but didn't see any in-home pics from the proud philips owners.
We would all appreciate if some pics were posted with some HD action in progress....

Also, would it be fair to expect philips and hitachi to drop their MSRP also after Aug 28th?
less $$$ is always great!!!
Thanks

That brings up a good questino. How far away SHOULD we be viewing a 42 inch plasma from? I'm currently at about 6' from mine and loving it!
There are a number of charts around on this subject. Here's one. (http://reviews.cnet.com/4520-7608_7-1016109-2.html?tag=tnav)

The most common rule of thumb (which that chart uses) is 1.5 to 3X the diagonal screen size, or about 5-1/4 to 10-1/2 feet for a 42" set. I didn't look it up, but as I recall, the THX recommendation is roughly at the low end of that range.

Sounds like you are just right.

I have tried to seach for some feedback on this Philips plasma with not much luck. This seems to be only on the B&M stores like CC and BB. I do not even see this on the Philips site. It this an older model (it does not seem to be with all the specs I have read on it)? or are the sku numbers specific for the B&M stores? Any feedback would be much appreciated. I have seen this at my local BB for under the price of the Panny 50px50u. Thanks.

It's a nice TV, though the ambilight feature is kind of worthless in my opinion so I wouldn't base my decision on that. We have that TV displayed directly next to the Panasonic TH50PX50U and I think the Panasonic wins in PQ. However, the Philips is cheaper and we haven't had a single one returned so custoemrs appear to be happy with it.

Macfan424, thanks for the info on the correct viewing distance.

Craiglester, I've personally never heard of a dead pixel on a plasma screen. Usually it's only dead on LCD screens as plasmas work differently. Cells in the screen filled with gas that changes color based on the electrical charge applied to that cell. Are you sure it's dead and not just part of the menu? Try looking for it somewhere other than the menu.

As for the buzzing, do the TV's in store have the same problem? I would ask the store if it's something they run into often.

Casey Jones, if you have the USB flash drive plugged into the set with the software update file on it, it will update itself automaticaly. An update screen with progress bars will pop up. When it's done it will tell you to turn off your TV and to remove the flash drive. My set was made in Belgium in July 2005. I just updated mine because I figured updating can't hurt it, can only help and prevent problems that I may run into.

I just picked up the 42" model (42PF9630A) of the same screen. I can't imaging that it would be much different, just a better picture because of the higher resolution. I've only have mine for a couple of days and I'm loving it so far. I like the ambilight though. It adds to the picture just enough to be enjoyable. If it turns out you don't like it, you can always turn it off. Check out the 42" philips thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=551202&page=1&pp=30

The 50" is listed on the Philips Website.

http://www.consumer.philips.com/consumer/catalog/catalog.jsp?activeCategory=TV_GR_US_CONSUMER&fhquery=fh_location%3D%2F%2Fconsumer%2Fen_US%2Fcategories%3C catalog_us_consumer%2Fcategories%3C%7BTV_GR_US_CONSUMER%7D&fredhopperpage=index.jsp&language=en&country=US&catalogType=CONSUMER

It is right there on the main Flat TV page.

Thanks, this seems to have everything I am looking for and I cannot really argue with the price at my local BB.

Thanks, this seems to have everything I am looking for and I cannot really argue with the price at my local BB.

Might want to get it online. Free shipping, and a free home theater system if purchased online. Might be worth a day or two wait..

http://www.bestbuy.com/site//olspage.jsp?id=pcmcat68400050005&type=category

For those who need cables, I'm going to be purchasing from monoprice.com. 15' HDMI cable and a 15' DVI-HDMI cable for under $30 shipped. From what I've read, there isn't a PQ difference with cheap vs high end cabling.

To put the price into perspective, BB and CC sell HDMI cables, 3' for $120.

I'll check the dead pixel later if I can find my avia disc..

Updating is easy peasy, I used a Memory Stick and it worked perfectly, although for some reason, on my set the power button on the set didnt work until I had powered off/on with the remote. Perhaps to stop you accidentally powering it off when it's programming?

And another nice thing, It doesn't clear all your setting when it does it.

And a small warning.. be careful plugging in your hdmi cables. thanks to the somewhat tricky position of the socket/label I managed to bend a pin on my hdmi cable from my dvd player. Ended up paying an outrageous $50 at radio shack for a new one. Wha's the deal with hdmi cables being SO darned expensive?

Threads Merged!

Dave

Threads Merged!

Dave

What does this mean? What threads have merged?

Someone must have posted a thread dealing with similar info contained in this original thread so it was merged. Happens all the time....but I admit I wasn't watching.

It was a thread about the 50" philips that got merged. Only 6 or 7 posts were added.

Well I called Philips about the dead pixel and the buzzing noise and they were pretty helpful. Spent 30 minutes on the phone talking me through a bunch of tests, before scheduling a home visit from an engineer.

I thought the guarantee didn't cover home servicing.. Glad it does!

Lady in the service department told me they were going to order a new display and power supply for me. Display? A whole new display panel? freaking hey.. wouldn't it be easer to give me a new tv! lol.. I'll report back when the engineer has been.. (will be a few days i think, they're going to call me when they have the parts)

Serus,
Thanks for the info. MY sets June 05, Belgium.

If you look in the set up sheet that was included with your plasma, you will notice Philips talks about the IR blasters briefly. Says its for future expansion of the system.

For anyone else thinking of upgrading to the newest software on Philips site. WOW is it easy, took all of 30 seconds. Used the USB microdrive and it was a snap.

i noticed that several sites are reducing their prices on the panny px25. i guess in anticipation of panny's expected price slashing on the current year models.

anyway, what do ya'll think of this unit versus that panny? or has anyone seen both HD sets near each other?

I just noticed CNET posted their review of this panel, which they rated a 6.2. As another poster mentioned previously, they compared it unfavorably to the Panny 42PX50U (surprise surprise). I'm not sure if they have a Panasonic bias, or if they just genuinely prefer their products. Either way, I tend to discount their reviews somewhat for this.

However, the one thing they mentioned which I found intriguing was the fact that they detected "significant false contouring artifacts in dark scenes". I must admit, I have noticed this as well and it is bugging me. I wasn't sure if it was something in my settings, or if it was the panel itself, but I am now at least tempted to go to CC and do a side by side comparison between these 2 sets. I really love this Philips, and in spite of CNETs negative view of ambilight, I do find this to be a great feature. But I am now tempted to checkout the 42PX50U just to see if it really does perform that much better than the Philips. There would have to be a significant improvement for me to even consider switching sets.

Has anyone else noticed false contouring on this Philips?

Read my earlier thread. There isnt any false contouring period. Start from the beginning of this thread and see what others have said to who own the unit.

No false contouring in dark scenes here.

The way that Panasonic is plastered all over that site, I'm beginning to think Panny has a financial stake in CNET.

If they want to say the PX50 is better, I guess that's their prerogative.

But I see them giving the Philips a 6.2 and last year's Panny model an 8.1. I compared the two side by side in my home with friends, and the Philips blew away the Panny.

There is no way this panel is a 6.2

I just read through their review, and some brief thoughts....

They said they couldn't figure out how to navigate the menus, that it wasn't "intuitive." If they can't figure out those menus (which are fairly straight forward but alas different than their Panasonic wet dream) then I don't think they're qualified to review tvs.

And I had to laugh at this...

While the set did not show much red push, color decoding of green was significantly off, which resulted in less than ideal saturation of grass and other green areas.

The clincher in my Panny vs. Philips comparison test was watching MNF in HD, and the green on the Philips was every bit as good as the Panny (most in attendance thought it was more vibrant).

BS review...

How does this unit compare to the unit being sold at Sams and Costco? I have seen were others say that it is the same without the ambilight (which I don't want anyway). I am returning a Samsung 4231 because of the clay face and looking to replace it. I will probably be forced to buy the Panny because of PQ but I really don't want to spend that much on a set with no features. The Phillips looks like a possibilty??

Well, after a few days of enjoyment, I have a couple of questions for you owners. Is it normal that it takes about 4-5 secs for the TV to turn on? Also, have you noticed that when you first turn the TV on, the ambilights go to a default setting (for me is white lights) instead of to the mode that you last had it set on (for example, relaxed). I then have to go to the ambilight settings and even though relaxed is highlighted, i have to move the cursor up and down in order for it to "kick in" to the setting you had. Do you guys have the same experience?

I've seen a lot of you talking about upgrading. I have to admit I'm a bit lost with this, so if anyon can explain why I want to do this now, and if I need to buy something to download the upgrade to and then plug (do I have this plug) it into the tv.

Thanks, as always, for all your help!

Going through the review right now and..

"Unfortunately, this plasma lacks independent memory per input--an inexcusable omission, since nearly every HDTV in its class offers at least an approximation of this feature."

Uhmm, I have this feature, doesn't everyone else? I was just saying in an earlier post that I thought it was cool. Cnet's really starting to piss me off. And to think I thought they were a good review source.

I attempted to post the below review on cnet. I suggest others write a review, even if it's brief, but at least rate the product. Cnet mentions the panasonic WAY to much in their review, almost as if they helped designed it and it's their "baby" Here's what I had to say, it's on the cnet site right now:

I decided to post my opinion only after reading the cnet review listed above. This is more of a rebuttle than a review, so please read the review and other cnet opinions, then read this.

In the cnet review it states that the Philips does not have independent memory per input. I have this set in my living room right now, and it does have independent memory per input. It makes me wonder if cnet even looked at this set and is instead relying on incorrect information.

The menu system, I felt, was very intuitive. It's easy to navigate and adjust settings.

The ambilight feature, while not for everyone (the cnet reviewers) I find it a great addition. I, like most, turn off the lights while viewing a movie. The addition of the ambilight reduces my eye strain and adds a more cinematic experience to the film. But hey, if you don't like it, TURN IT OFF. I'm not about to knock a product because it has TOO MANY features.

I paid $2330 at a national chain store for my set during a promotion. $830 less than the Panasonic PX50U and the Philips has more features and inputs, including PC and 2 HDMI instead of 1. I do not notice any false-countouring artifacts in dark scenes like the cnet review suggests. Greens such as grass on NFL or MLB, look amazing and vibrant, again, unlike the cnet reviews opinion.

With the mention of the Panasonic PX50u so many times in the cnet article, I wonder if they can provide a truly unbiased opinion. After reading the review, I would have to say no. Lines like "Compared to recent plasmas such as the excellent Panasonic TH-42PX50U, which we had on hand for comparison, the philips 42PF9630A's overall image quality leaves something to be desired." I notice NO difference in picture quality between the Philips and the Panasonic. However, I do see a ton of extra features, including the ability to update the sets firmware, ambilight, an added HDMI input, PC inputs, Memory Card Reader, Front AV inputs for a gaming system, etc. Oh, and all at a retail price tag $500 less than the Panasonic.

The only complaint I have is a slight buzzing noise on some high-bass audio segments. However, if your going to spend the money on a plasma TV, why are you using the speakers it comes with instead of a home theater system. I'll have mine hooked up in a couple of weeks.

When it's all said and done, I would recommend this set to anyone over the Panasonic PX50u. I don't work for any company relating to any of these manufacturers. I'm just an owner of a great set that got bashed in a review when it shouldn't have. Lets see if this review even makes it online, or will cnet censor it because it conflicts with their opinion.

Well I added my review on cnet as I feel that the cnet editorial review does not represent this set correctly. Of course, the authors can write whatever they feel right and so can I. But my impression was that first they selected the Panasonic model as sort of a Perfect one. Then, about everything what deviates from it they regard as shortcomings.

In my opinion the colors of Philips, including and particularly green (I am watching football and soccer a lot) are natural. In comparison, Panasonic's are not - they appear to me cartoonish (sort of you are watching Shrek all the time). This reason was enough for me to reject Panasonic (as well as some other Japanese models) outright.

Another feature of Philips is outstanding connectivity AND the cablecard. So, you don't pay for the cablebox, no need for the HDMI cable for that (no extra signal loss), plus you can add a dvd-player with dvi output, even if you use the cablebox.

The editorial review says that dvi and component ins are of the same quality. Maybe, for their player. BUT, and it is a very big BUT - the dvd-players can have very different quality for the component and dvi outs. For example, many have a special scaler (Faroudja) via dvi only. If you have only one dvi/hdmi input and no cablecard, and use your only dvi/hdmi in for the hdtv box, or even if you have a cablecard but one dvi/hdmi in and want to add an hd-recorder requiring an hdmi-input, you are screwed. You can throw such multithousand display (as this Panasonic, note the 25 model does not accept 720p as I read?) into the garbage!

Via this output Philips allows any formatting you want, even for not anamorphic dvds at 480p. A nonanamorhic letterbox with 720p and Auto(format) also gives you the right proportions. This means all your dvds become anamorphic and WS!

I believe, with the right source the digital hdmi in is principally better than component for a fixed-pixel display like plasma - so forget about component in!
Also, in the future only HDMI-HTCP will probably allow the true HD reception - you need more of these.

The menu is very natural to me - you just move cursor up or down, left or right to the desired line and click on it. How can it be not natural? I am lost here? One should be careful when relying on these people's opinion after that.

AV+ is standard for Philips to choose an input and natural for me.

I did not try to select different setting for my inputs, but I read that other owners can do it. This contradicts to the editorial review. Also, you can select and modify any of several preset settings and use it for any input (as on other Philips sets).

Software on Philips is easily upgradable, which is unique feature.

I don't see any double lines either.

But again the picture quality and connectivity make this set a clear winner for me at this time!

Serus and Alek- i agree with both of you, and was compelled to write a review so people out there can get a fair and objectionable viewpoint. I really think the person reviewing spent less than 10 minutes with this TV because they really did miss some important points.

Well, after a few days of enjoyment, I have a couple of questions for you owners. Is it normal that it takes about 4-5 secs for the TV to turn on? Also, have you noticed that when you first turn the TV on, the ambilights go to a default setting (for me is white lights) instead of to the mode that you last had it set on (for example, relaxed). I then have to go to the ambilight settings and even though relaxed is highlighted, i have to move the cursor up and down in order for it to "kick in" to the setting you had. Do you guys have the same experience?

I've seen a lot of you talking about upgrading. I have to admit I'm a bit lost with this, so if anyon can explain why I want to do this now, and if I need to buy something to download the upgrade to and then plug (do I have this plug) it into the tv.

Thanks, as always, for all your help!

Valen, Yes, my TV also defaults to white ambilights until I select a mode on the remote. It's a bug i think, but no biggie. It IS normal for it to take 4-5 seconds for the tv to show a picture, so no need to worry there either.

With regard to upgrading.. its pretty simple. if you have card of any type that the tv can read, then you'll just need to format the card, put the firmware on it and insert it itnto the tv when it's off. switch on the tv and it's pretty much all automatic from there.. I did it with a memory stick, so you dont need a usb drive.

My set remembers ambilight settings.

I must retract my earlier statement that I had noticed false contouring. I did some further research on what exactly that is, and it is not what I was experiencing...I simply assumed it was the same issue. I tested the DVDs that were bothering me on my previous 32 inch CRT, and noticed the same "problem", which isn't really a problem at all. It was the result of poor setting of brightness and contrast, combined with an overly critical eye.

Now that I have that concern behind me and I can go on enjoying this set as I have for the past 2 weeks, I will join those of you who wrote CNET, and post my own review shortly. I don't have a problem with a reviewer preferring one picture over another. Certainly I was not in a position to compare the 2 side by side in a "controlled" environment. However, there are so many things in their commentary that simply don't make sense.

The criticism of ambilight is overblown. Not only is it my preferred viewing method, but everyone who has seen it in action on my set has raved about it. To me, it truly enhances the viewing experience. And if you don't like it...TURN IT OFF!!

Their comment regarding the internal menu: "we failed to scale the learning curve even after spending plenty of time with the television"...huh?? Up, down, left right. Simple.

And finally, "the overall package doesn't justify a price that's somewhat steeper than that of comparable models". Isn't this set cheaper than the Panny they drool over? I was amazed at the low price of this set given the feature package. In fact, it was a driving factor behind my decision to make the plasma plunge when I did.

Thanks everyone for making this a great and useful forum!

I must say those reviews were great that all of you wrote to rebut Cnet. Im going to compose mine now and include it. "Let the truth be known!"

Hey guys,
I have had the 42PF9630A for about 3 weeks now. As beautiful as the picture is, I always notice "ghost" images if I leave the TV on but turn off the DirecTV receiver. It goes away after a while, but it really bothers me. Is this normal or is it something I should worry about. I left the TV in "torch mode" for about the first 30 hours before lowering the settings, if that matters.

Oh Yeah, I read some posts about mounts for these TVs. I am using a Sanus Low Profile wall mount. It's not a perfect fit, but it does the trick.

Oldrtyfrog,

You dont need to worry about burn in but you should be prudent especially during the first 100 hours of viewing. Try not to display static images for long if possible, lower your contrast and brightness to below 50 etc. As you build your hours of usage you can increase slowly your viewing of different materials. This isnt for this panel alone its just good advice for all panels. I think you might want to read this entire thread, never leave a new panel in Torch mode.

Yea I lowered the contrast and brightness below 50. Once I got used to the new settings I actually liked the picture better. I was just worried about the whole "ghosting" thing....It was pretty scary turning off my receiver and still seeing ESPN all over the screen.

When you lower your settings as I mentioned above during the breakin period use the "personal" setting.

Am I correct in that these Philips sets have no provision for screen protection such as Whitewash or Orbiter?

If so you definitely want to be careful with static images. Most of what you are seeing is image persistence/retention. When new content is displayed the old stuff disappears. Try this...watch a channel with a fairly bright logo on it for a good while, even with low settings on the set. Make it the last thing you watch when you turn it off at night. Turn on the set the next morning and I guarantee you the logo will still be there visible on the panel when the set is dark and warming up. The darn things retain imagery even when there is no juice!
Unsettling yes...but you get used to it.

I run a whitewash at night before turning my ED off. Probably not necessary, especially now that usage is up past 400 hours but it makes me feel better.

Serus, did you do anything in particular to set-up the independent memory per input? It doesn't seem to work for me. If I set Contrast, Brightness and Color each to 50 in the HDMI1 input, it remains that way when I move to HDMI2. If I then make Color 45 in HDMI2 and go back to HDMI1, the Color remains at 45. With independent memory, shouldn't these settings remain independent of the other?

The Philips 9630A has what they call an anti aging circuit. In addition when using HDMI input the unit activates a pixel orbiter.

I would like to post a few pics of the panel this weekend. Can anyone tell me how to include the pics in a post. Thanks.

casey, click on the "go advanced" button below the text message entry window. then click on the "add image" icon (looks like a mountain? on it). if you move your cursor over the icons a text description should pop up indicating what it's for.

looking forward to the pics!

does anyone know where to find detailed specs on this unit? i have downloaded the ".pdf" spec sheet from philips site but it does not list some of the values that panny has listed for their model (e.g. shades of gradation, displayable colors, ...). where can i find that info on the philips? is that in any of you (lucky) owners manuals?

After playing around, here's what I determined about the individual settings per input.

The two HDMI inputs are tied together, so one setting is reflected on the other.

The other inputs operate independantly of eachother.

So to a degree, the cnet article was partly right.

Can anyone else confirm this? I want to make sure before I update my cnet post.
I'm using the latest firmware available from Philips.

I just tested the independent input memory between HDMI and Component. Unfortunately, when I change one, I change the others. So this didn't work for me.

I just tested the independent input memory between HDMI and Component. Unfortunately, when I change one, I change the others. So this didn't work for me.


If you change HDMI it changes Components? Are you running the latest firmware? All my component inputs operate independantly of eachother. The 2 HDMI's are tied together though..

I don't have the latest firmware from 8/23, which I just noticed today on the Philips site. I will install that tonight and see if that changes anything. But as of now, yes...when I change the inputs on the HDMI1, it also changes the AV1 to the same thing.

The Philips 9630A has what they call an anti aging circuit. In addition when using HDMI input the unit activates a pixel orbiter.

Does this orbiter work when the cablecard is used? I mean, if you use the cablebox, then you can use an HDMI cable, which can be an advantage then over the cablecard?

On the other hand, the manual says that the normal operation to preserve the screen is when the screen is full and there are no static images. So, it looks like they don't really rely on the anti aging circuit and orbiter.

someone check the MSRP on the 50pf9630A @ CC.
Holy moly, coupled with the standard 10% discount/coupons that u can usually negotiate, we must be looking at a new price point for such a high value panel!!!

Still no luck with the independent memory input with the latest firmware. I have components running from cable box to AV1 and HDMI running from DVD player to HDMI1. Looks to me like one setting for all inputs. Can anyone else confirm or deny the independent memory settings?

Kahlilj,

Thanks for the info, Ill give it a try. Not wall mounted yet but will get a few pics.

Alek,

I had a lengthy discussion with Philips, second level tech(ken) about this. I didnt address the cablecard with him, I was interested in other devices. But he stated that when using the HDMI connection the orbiter was automatic. The anti aging circuit addresses the phospors if I recall correctly to help eliminate ghosting and or burn in. Unless of course you use a pc video game for hours or have it on torch mode. You wont find any explanation of this in the manual at all. Prior to purchasing this was one of my concerns thats why I contacted Philpis as mentioned above. Only other mention of the circuit is on philips site.

To Casey Jones: Thanks!

To Ray1: I also upgraded yesterday the firmware.

BTW, after the first run of upgrade I got a message that some files were flashed out or there no such files, or something, and then the upgrade was repreated, then the same message appeared, and then the next message was - Upgrade is successful - is it normal?

I have only one input from a dvd-player via HDMI2. The setting between TV (with cablecard) and HDMI2 are not independent.
On the other hand, I don't have any problem with it in my case as the same settings fit both dvd and HDTV programming.

A bigger problem is other channels, but here you would need different settings for every channel. If it is bright, sometimes you think it is HDTV and the PQ is fine in the most cases.
(of course, stretching is annoying.)
On some other channels the dark scenes are not good - everything is just black. To fix it you need to add brightness, which will make other channels and HDTV sort of washed out.
I think the problem is the resolution (of the input signal) at the level and contrast you are watching it:
If you have 480p and up, you can get it ``blacker than black', if it is 480i, then you cannot and you need different settings.

Did anyone try a dvd-player with 1080i output via dvi or hdmi? I have a problem here:

I use the Cambridge Audio dvd79 and I can get out 480p and 720p and I get a black screen for 1080i via dvi-to-hdmi conversion cable (also from Philips pxt series).
The TV info says - no signal (or rather nothing about the signal). My audio goes to an amplifier and is fine.

Philips ``happily'' told me that this is because CA is not HTCP compliant (which I actually suggested them myself as a reason) and did not bother further about it.

CA says it should be OK, because HTCP is only important on the reception end to decode an HTCP signal (no such thing is needed for CA). They say maybe your TV does not accept a 1080i signal?

I would like to try some other player to see what is going on.

I updated the firmware this morning and had a new cablecard installed. I have now lost "preferred channel" under "channels" in the main menu, i.e. there is no "preferred channel" in the menu. Anyone put in the new firmware and have this problem?

Mlandau,
Your talking about the August 23rd version I presume. No I havent yet but had intentions of doing so. Did you notice if it changed the yellow border around PIP?

Mlandau,

The software upgrade and the cable card were installed on the same day? Can you tell me if you see any difference in the picture quality between the cable card and STB?

Thanks
Casey

Yes and no. I had the card installed awhile ago, but there were some technical problems. A great guy from Cablevision, Steve, in the Morris County NJ area got the problem resolved (it was sort of a backoffice problem at CV). I'm not certain if the picture is better with cablecard compared to the SA4200HD box and DVI to HDMI I was using for the first couple of days. I think it is better, but I am not as certain as Optivity is since I really did not do much of a comparison when I did the original switch. No cable box means one less piece of equipment.
The yellow border remains around one of the two pip screens.

Going back to my preferred channel setup disappearing, it had nothing to do with the new firmware (8-23) nor the new cablecard. It was me playing around. I had set a pin number in the menu system and that blocks anyone from changing channel preferences (and any of the normal v-chip type stuff). It also causes "channel preferences" to drop out of the standard menu system, but access is still there once you put in your pin number. So, all is clear on the new firmware, though I don't know what it fixed.

My wife and I decided we didn't want to mess about with getting the defects in ours repaired by philips, and decided to return our to CC for a replacement.
According to CC they have zero of these sets in stock anywhere locally. So , after some discussion they offered us the Panasonic for the same price.
We grudingly agreed,, only to find out they have none of these locally either!
Both would need a special order for us to get one.
I was offered the LG for the same price, but I didn't like the LG's Picture, and I hear it's hopeless with SD, which the philps excels with. So, we've got another on order, but if philips fix the one we have first, then we'll keep that.

The store director we spoke to said philips were recalling the 9630 for a problem with the firmware, and we'd probably receive a letter about that soon.

I have some update on my experience.

I found that all settings for TV and HDMI2 are dependent, accept for format, which is independent.

After upgrade, switching between the HDTV channels is faster and I don't see first those
digital artifacts, which were before right after switching. This is a nice improvement.

I tried Samsung 841 - it has 1080i and 480p, but 720p is not showing on my screen.
With Cambridge Audio dvd79, I have 480p, 720p, but no 1080i.
CA has a better PQ, much better depth and 3-d feeling. 1080i on Samsung was very smooth but lacked detail and depth. So, I prefer CA (not to mention the Audio) even with 480p against Samsung's even 1080i, as I like a 3-d feeling.
But I need to call to CA and try to replace my unit.

I did a THX Otimizer setup for the first time, and got Contrast 50, Br 52 (lower were producing a noise), color 49, Sharness 0, so I am going to stick to this.

So I played around some more and here's what I found:

There are 5 preset settings:

Rich
Natural
Soft
Multimedia
Eco

And the 1 adjustable setting: Personal

Each input can select any of the above settings, however personal is static across all settings. So while AV1 can have the setting of Soft, AV2 and 3 can have personal, but they would be the same. Hope this clarifies that..I updated my cnet post as well.

FYI,

I just ordered a Peerless Articulating Swivel Plasma Wall Mount Kit (including Plasma adapter plate) from mountsandmore.com so I can hang this in the corner. The adapter plate that they suggested for the 9630 was the LCD42, not one of the philips adapter plates. I had to call to find out what mounting plate would be best.

I finally bought this set yesterday at CC. The cost was the same as the PX50u but I have convinced myself that the picture on the PX50u is too shrek like and the Philips has a more natural look, and the firmware and input options would provide longer life and useability. I also like the ambilight feature. I am giving myself a week to live with this set, so far I like it and the HD channels I have pulled in via Comcast coax look great.

I am going to buy the OPPO DVD player and here is my question. If I buy direct from Oppo I can select a DVI-HDMI cable. I would then pay shipping costs. If i buy at Amazon I get a DVI-DVI cable (free shipping) and therefore need to buy a new cable or adapter. Anyone noticed any differences in using a DVI-HDMI adpater over a straight DVI-HDMI cable... does this make any difference?

2nd cable question. Can I connect a laptop VGA to 3RCA cables to get a picture on this TV - is there a better way to do it - only use it for occasional surfing not game playing.

I have my contrast at 49 and brightness at 50, color at 60. I do see some image retention when I turn off or have a black screen but it is really faint and I am not bothered by it.

As I have a few HD channels coming in from Comcast I will be staying with my Direct TV SD DVR setup (connected via S-Video currently) as I rarley watch local channels anyway. Once HD starts rolling out for comedy central, Fox Soccer Channel I will upgrade to HD then. I am surprised that the SD picture is pretty good and better than I expected.

Any comments on the OPPO cable appreciated, and anyone here decided to go with the PX50u as the price is the same now at CC.

Oh and I got the 10% gift card from CC, no hassle, just ask for it - the one sales guy had no idea what it was but the store director knew about it, obviously not many consumers are aware of the deal.

I am going to buy the OPPO DVD player and here is my question. If I buy direct from Oppo I can select a DVI-HDMI cable. I would then pay shipping costs. If i buy at Amazon I get a DVI-DVI cable (free shipping) and therefore need to buy a new cable or adapter. Anyone noticed any differences in using a DVI-HDMI adpater over a straight DVI-HDMI cable... does this make any difference?



Yourefree:

I would be really interested to know if Oppo's 1080i output will be working with 9630A.
I have Cambridge Audio dvd79 which some believe is a clon of Oppo - simply because of similar description (though CA does not have a DTS decoder).

I chose CA, because I know it longer . I prefer it over NAD in a similarly priced audio gear. I think the tradiion is a big issue - normally a small company earning regularly the highest reviews in UK like CA cannot afford to screw up things too badly. It looks great next Philips too - a quality item.

I think even it is derived from Oppo they made some improvement. As to the lack of 1080i on Philips (as I wrote earlier), actually for this plasma resolution 720p is a preferable match, with more lines (720p = 720 x 2, especially if originally it was 480i) in the sense that less processing is needed - less noise, compared to 1080i.

I finally bought this set yesterday at CC. The cost was the same as the PX50u but I have convinced myself that the picture on the PX50u is too shrek like and the Philips has a more natural look, and the firmware and input options would provide longer life and useability. I also like the ambilight feature. I am giving myself a week to live with this set, so far I like it and the HD channels I have pulled in via Comcast coax look great.

I am going to buy the OPPO DVD player and here is my question. If I buy direct from Oppo I can select a DVI-HDMI cable. I would then pay shipping costs. If i buy at Amazon I get a DVI-DVI cable (free shipping) and therefore need to buy a new cable or adapter. Anyone noticed any differences in using a DVI-HDMI adpater over a straight DVI-HDMI cable... does this make any difference?

2nd cable question. Can I connect a laptop VGA to 3RCA cables to get a picture on this TV - is there a better way to do it - only use it for occasional surfing not game playing.

I have my contrast at 49 and brightness at 50, color at 60. I do see some image retention when I turn off or have a black screen but it is really faint and I am not bothered by it.

As I have a few HD channels coming in from Comcast I will be staying with my Direct TV SD DVR setup (connected via S-Video currently) as I rarley watch local channels anyway. Once HD starts rolling out for comedy central, Fox Soccer Channel I will upgrade to HD then. I am surprised that the SD picture is pretty good and better than I expected.

Any comments on the OPPO cable appreciated, and anyone here decided to go with the PX50u as the price is the same now at CC.

Oh and I got the 10% gift card from CC, no hassle, just ask for it - the one sales guy had no idea what it was but the store director knew about it, obviously not many consumers are aware of the deal.




If you get the DVI lead from amazon, you'll need a DVI- HDMI adapter, and if you're using the tabletop stand like I am, then you'll need a short Adapter( Not Monster for sure) or the connector+ adapter wont fit in the space below the hdmi socket. (the plastic part of the stand gets in the way)

I'd suggest going to oppo direct and getting the hdmi lead. Word of warning though, the oppo supplied lead is a very basic one and I managed to bend a tiny pin in the hdmi end by inserting it a bit off angle. So be careful.

I'm using the Oppo with 1080I, I cant see agreat deal (if any) difference with 720p, but you may be able to. Aparrently the Oppo should have the brightness set to +5 on the opp to pass the full video signal.

There's a bit of macroblocking with the oppo in upscaled video, but not too bad. no worse than most other players i'v seen. The PQ is stunning with a well mastered DVD.

Having said that even the component (480i) looks good on this tv, not quite as goos as the hdmi but very good nonetheless, I assume this means the phillips has a pretty good scaler in the set, and seems to handel 3:2 pulldown, even thoiugh this isn't mentioned in the manual.

I agree with the glowing praise for SD channels, although i think this is only if you enable pixel plus. without it, it's not so hot.

We completely forgot to ask for a gift card when we ordered ours.. I wonder if they'll give it to us when our replacement comes in if we ask for it :)

I will let you know how the oppo works with this set. I emailed OPPO and they sent me an address to return the dvi-dvi cable I will get from amazon and they will send me a dvi-hdmi cable - problem solved.

Avoid using the adapters. DVI-HDMI single cable is better.

Craiglester,

To set the record straight, you were given BAD information by that store manager. There is no Firmware problem with the 9630A. Why you ask? Because the firmware is "fully" upgradeable by the user. Thats one of the benefits of owning this unit. The reason you didnt find it in stock is they are selling like hotcakes and you as well as others have to wait for the new shipment to arrive. Philips( in there wisdom) designed the 9630A this way for the express purpose of eliminating just the type of problem that you mention. In addition no service tech appointment is necessary to install software upgrades as with other units. :)

On another note? Did anyone catch the Eagles Farewell concert in HD over the weekend? We watched it and the combo of HD signal and Ambilight was simply AMAZING. Felt like we were at the show.Nothing but smiles here :) :) :)

Craiglester,

To set the record straight, you were given BAD information by that store manager. There is no Firmware problem with the 9630A. Why you ask? Because the firmware is "fully" upgradeable by the user. Thats one of the benefits of owning this unit. The reason you didnt find it in stock is they are selling like hotcakes and you as well as others have to wait for the new shipment to arrive. Philips( in there wisdom) designed the 9630A this way for the express purpose of eliminating just the type of problem that you mention. In addition no service tech appointment is necessary to install software upgrades as with other units. :)


I'm well aware that the firmeare is upgradable Casey, Did it myself within a couple of days of getting the TV.
I was a little sceptical myself Casey, and I did point out we'd already updated ours.
I'm just passing on what I was told.
I found it amusing that the two best sets in CC (The Philips and the Panasonic) were both out of stock in our area. The manager looked stunned that we didn't want the LG instead, when he offered it to us.

So here's the problem that I'm having. Of course, I'm running the latest firmware.

Occasionaly after I turn on the Philips, I get HEAVY flickering. Screen look like it's losing power quickly, on off on off. Also, nothing matches up on the screen when there is an image. It's usualy off center, really large, and the colors are all out of wack. The ambient light is doing the same thing, going on and off. I have to turn the TV off and on, sometimes more than once, to get it to stop.

I've also experienced a flickering effect while navigating the on screen DVR menu of my comcast digital HDTV box, but I'm not sure if it's the TV or the Comcast box. But I know it didn't happen with my 27" LCDTV using the same component cables.

I have a comcast HDTV DVR box plugged in via component and rca audio. Also, loud buzzing in the audio is getting very annoying. I don't see how it can be just crappy speakers, as I wouldn't own this TV if I wasn't going over to a surround sound system.

Perhaps it's time I called Philips?

Edit:
Another thing that may be a part, I have the Philips and the Comcast box plugged into a Monster Power Home Theatre PowerCenter HTS400, Clean Power Circuitry box. Only reason I mention this is because of the on off on off of the tv.

I believe a clue may well be that the Ambi-Light acts up similarly when the problem presents itself. I thought Ambi-Light fed off of the input signal rather than the after-the fact panel display which would appear to implicate the box. Also the audio buzzing would seem to point in the same direction.

I would call Comcast, switch out the box and see what happens. Probably quicker and less involved right now than going to Philips.

I believe a clue may well be that the Ambi-Light acts up similarly when the problem presents itself. I thought Ambi-Light fed off of the input signal rather than the after-the fact panel display which would appear to implicate the box. Also the audio buzzing would seem to point in the same direction.

I would call Comcast, switch out the box and see what happens. Probably quicker and less involved right now than going to Philips.


The problem is though, if it was a Comcast box issue, why would turning the TV on and Off fix it?

I'm switching over to Dish next Tuesday after I move on Saturday. Hopefully it'll fix itself. I sent an email to Philips, I'll post what they say when they respond.

Anyone have any recommendations for HD content. Cablecard, STB cable, Direct TV? I currently have SD DirectTV with Tivo. I rarley watch live tv so I am leaning towards Direct TV HD or Comcast HD STB with DVR. I have managed to get pretty good HD channels via the Coax - split from the main feed as I need it for the internet. Would you expect the PQ to improve with a STB or Cable card.

I did end up watching Leno last night as it was in HD and when my wife joined me she pointed out it was a re-run. I was very impressed with the picture even with my low contrast/brightness configuration.

I hope Philips look at the independent settings for each input, I do find that I need to adjust DNR and Active settings when jumping from HD to my SD Direct TV. Is it feaisble to change this via a future firmware upgrade?

I hope Philips look at the independent settings for each input, I do find that I need to adjust DNR and Active settings when jumping from HD to my SD Direct TV. Is it feaisble to change this via a future firmware upgrade?


It hasn't been included in a firmware upgrade yet, but I expect that it's something they could fix with a firmware upgrade.

I've heard of better picture quality with a cablecard rather than an external box.

So here's the problem that I'm having. Of course, I'm running the latest firmware.

Occasionaly after I turn on the Philips, I get HEAVY flickering. Screen look like it's losing power quickly, on off on off. Also, nothing matches up on the screen when there is an image. It's usualy off center, really large, and the colors are all out of wack. The ambient light is doing the same thing, going on and off. I have to turn the TV off and on, sometimes more than once, to get it to stop.

I've also experienced a flickering effect while navigating the on screen DVR menu of my comcast digital HDTV box, but I'm not sure if it's the TV or the Comcast box. But I know it didn't happen with my 27" LCDTV using the same component cables.



I had some digitl noise on many channels a few days ago, and then I turned on another TV, and it was there too at the same time. Turned out it was a cable (Adelphia) problem - it lasted 2 days. Did you try to watch both tvs at the same time?


The other thing is that Monster 450 may not be suitable for an HDTV signal - all cable guys are saying that a surge protector can block some HDTV frequencies. I am using an 800 model, which is said is specifically designed to pass an HDTV signal.





I have a comcast HDTV DVR box plugged in via component and rca audio. Also, loud buzzing in the audio is getting very annoying. I don't see how it can be just crappy speakers, as I wouldn't own this TV if I wasn't going over to a surround sound system.



I think the problem is that the many channles simply carry a crappy audio signal with buzz and other noise. Try programing which says DD 5.1, only this can be a test.

Also, the box and TV, I, am sure, have really bad DACs. I am planning to use digital out to my preamp with a high end dacs to see if it will be better.

I'm using the Oppo with 1080I, I cant see agreat deal (if any) difference with 720p, but you may be able to. Aparrently the Oppo should have the brightness set to +5 on the opp to pass the full video signal.



craiglester:

So, Oppo is outputting 1080i and 720p with no problem? It is interesting. At least,
CA is not quite its clone.

craiglester:

So, Oppo is outputting 1080i and 720p with no problem? It is interesting. At least,
CA is not quite its clone.

Yep all oppo's output resolutions work just fine with this TV over hdmi.

Craiglester,

I wasnt finding any fault with your post I commented on. Was just adding what I thought might be important for others to know. Enjoy your panel!!!

Heres an idea, your comments are welcome. How about we comprise a list of potential software upgrades that we as owners of the 9630A would like to see. Once we have the list compiled we each send Philips an email with our wish list. Seems to me the more emails they get showing the same requests the faster we may get results? What do you think??

Heres one I would like to see:

The removal of the bright yellow pip frame. This has the potential for image retention if both screens are viewed for a long time. I would suggest either its removed entirely or changed to a darker translucent color.

Gah! Got a call from the engineer assigned to do the repair on my TV last night.

He has one of the parts, but we're waiting on the Plasma Panel itself to be shipped from Philips, and they said it won't be shipped until September 23rd at least!.. :mad:

I hope Circuit City get a replacement for us before then..

So much for the 4-5 days Philips quoted me on the phone.

Does anyone else have a high pitched buzzing from their set? I hope this isn't a problem with all of the sets. The engineer I spoke to said he's repaired a few of these sets in the Denver area and they all buzz, even after the repair. :(

If the new tv or repaired one (whichever comes first) still buzzes then it'll have to go back.
Which is a shame, as none of the others appear to offer as much for the price.

I noticed something last night. I turned the TV off after about 5 hours of continuous viewing (first DVD) and some tweaking with ambilight, PQ settings etc. to annoy the wife. Instead of the hard click to black screen off, it flicked back to a 'no signal' screen i.e. it was on but no picture or green on light. Repeatedly pressing it back on and then off resulted in the same outcome so I thought it might be a cool down or screen saver feature (i havent read the CD manual yet). I left it for 5 miuntes in that state and when I came back it was off. Has anyone else noticed this? Sorry if this is covered in the manual - personally I like a book to read. I will crack open the CD tonight. I also noticed when I set AV1 to Cable it changed the Picture changer automatically to Soft and seemed to clean up the image somewhat on the SD and DVD (through S video currently). I turned it back to low contrast and brightness as I am paranoid about having this thing encounter problems down the road due to initial high contrast/brightness settings.

Enhancement Requests...

Definitely get rid of the yellow box around PIP...

Howabout this (the engineers have got to be able to come up with some code for this one..):

Auto-sense the bright channel logos in the lower right quadrant, and convert to translucent automatically.

Craiglester,

No buzzing of any kind on my panel. Do you think the buzzing is caused by the elevation you may be at in the Denver area?

Yourefree,

I havent had that happen to mine. By chance did you try resetting everything to the factory setting? If so, did that help. This may sound stupid but when no signal was encountered could the wrong AV setting had been selected. I know sometimes I hit the wrong button and need to rethink what I am doing, lol!

Dallasite,

That would be an awesome request!

Craiglester,

Dont know if this is the cause of the buzzing but this is from Philips interactive trouble shooter:

Problem Category Sound
Problem Sound, buzzing or cracking.
Cause Display makes humming sound

Solution These possible adverse effects relate to the altitude and are common to all plasma displays. Once the set is brought below approximately 6562 ft (and/or local air pressure equal or above 800 hPa) its function should return to normal.

BTW, no buzzing from the tv for me.

Yeah I went through a bunch of tests while on the phone with philips and they seemed to think the problem wasn't altitude related.

however, with the engineer saying he had had a couple that still buzzed after the repair, makes me think philips might be a little optimistic with that altitude figure.

I'm at 5280 ft (The Mile High City!) and so *shouldn't* be affected by the altitude..

The buzzing is coming from the back of the set, not the screen, and gets worse the more power is being drawn by the set (whiter screens = louder buzz)which makes me think its something in the electronics.

Just did some very quick googling (im at work) and found out that from what I can find online it's a power supply issue. due to the panels bowing out a bit at high altitude and requiring more power to arc the charge across the plasma. So i have my doubts that the replacement will be any quieter.

Aparrently LG has developed a screen that work better at altitude.. i *may* have to get one of those just to get rid of the buzz..

Just looked at the LG specs... hmm no digital audio in or out? are they serious?

bleh

Did anyone consider or compare the Hitachi 42HDS52 - it has the power swivel stand - it has a very similar feature set to the Philips without ambilight or firmware upgrade. It does have 1024 x 1024 resolution, 2 HDMI, Dual RF inputs. It is giving me second thoughts about the Philips I bought. PQ is highly rated in reviews with SD and HD and importantly it has independent memory for each input (and actually has different settings for day and night viewing)

I have spent all day reading this thread. Wow, I have learned a tremendous amount from people contemplating purchases to troubleshooting. Thank you for taking the time to post, as this will allow me to draw my own conclusions.

My questions are simple but I am curious.

Has anyone noticed an increased room temperature that I have heard can be symptomatic with Plasma? If so how big is the room? And does the temperature increase as you get closer to the set?

The second question is the electric bill. Have any users determined what the increase wattage has added to their monthly electric bill?

Is it significant or has minimal increases been noted?

Thanks for all the replys and I will post as well once I complete my research.

Chris

Christofu2,
Plasmas do run hotter than most other TV's. I would relate the temperature increase in my room as to leaving a halogen lamp on for a few hours.

I haven't received my electric bill yet, but I can't imagine it taking up a whole lot more power and thus am not expecting a noticeable increase in my bill.



Question for others that own the 9630. When I turn my TV off, the picture reverts back to "soft" instead of "Personal" anyone else experiencing this? Every time I turn it on I have to switch it back. I have it set to personal for lower contrast and brightness.

Did anyone consider or compare the Hitachi 42HDS52 - it has the power swivel stand - it has a very similar feature set to the Philips without ambilight or firmware upgrade. It does have 1024 x 1024 resolution, 2 HDMI, Dual RF inputs. It is giving me second thoughts about the Philips I bought. PQ is highly rated in reviews with SD and HD and importantly it has independent memory for each input (and actually has different settings for day and night viewing)

I personally have a very high respect for Hitachi, in general (as opposed to Panasonic or Sony, for example). But here there can be a few issues:

1024x1024 can be a step back. I originally wanted an older Philips with this resolution, but was told that 1024x768 is better, because it is actually 1024x768p
(progressive).

The biggest Philips' selling point is Pixel Plus, and in this case PP 2 for HD

The upgrade feature cannot be overestimated.

Independent memory can be important, I agree. But it should not be overestimated - if you use plasma for HD and hdmi inputs only, I believe the same settings will do. (Philips has independent format settins for each input .)

If we are talking about HD and SD or analogue, the independent inputs do not solve this problem. So, for me it is a desirable, just in case, feature.

Cablecard?

Other things to consider - what scaler is involved?

Humm or buzz? I also had some high pitch humm for about three weeks, which I could hear from 3-4 feet - I consder it is normal. I understand it is a power supply and is typical for plasmas, especially big ones, which also can have a fan. Now it is gone - can't hear a sound. Can't say why. Maybe, it was a break in.

Reading about some problems (or scares) people experiencing, I thought that i did the right thing purchasing extra 4 years of in-house warranty from RepairMaster for $160.
It covers everything that Philips covers, in-house, and uses the Brand authorized service people. Well ... on the paper. But, hey, $40 a year (or $32 if you count the 1st year) is worth a risk.

Serus.

I had this issue yesterday, it started once I selected the input type in the settings for AV1. I selected cable, once I did this and changed input to TV and then back to AV1, AV1 went to soft and the picture appeared cleaner - i was watching a DVD at the time (AV1 is connected to my receiver S video out - DTV and DVD go through the receiver). I selected none for AV1 again and it keeps it at personal. As i have limited inputs so far I cannot test if it does this if you select HD as HDMI input. It either has calibrated settings that it thinks work with various inputs - presumably soft would work with SD Cable and help reduce picture noise. I will play around with the setting and see if it changes a HD selection to Natural for example.

TV staying on after you turn it off seems to be an automatic cool down feature. It shuts off once it has cooled down sufficiently -mine stayed on for about 5 minutes after I turned it off last night after 5 hours of on time. Anyone concur?

Yourefree, it's interesting you ask that question. I purchased the Philips about 2 weeks ago, and have been very happy with it. However, I was having a problem on DVDs, particularly with skin tones, that look very fake - very pixelated. I began to wonder whether I should look at another set while I was still within the 30 day return window. I purchased the Hitachi from CC to do a side by side with the Philips, and it was just deliverd last night. Incidentally, in the meantime I figured out my problem with the skin tones on the Philips...it was a setting on the DVD player.

So, I now have 2 sets in the house. The Philps has been packed to save some space, but I honestly haven't decided yet which I like better. The Philips screen feels larger. Not sure if that's an illusion because the set itself is larger, or if the screen really is a bit bigger. The PQ on the Hitachi is very nice. It's been more difficult to calibrate using DVE than the Philips was, and there might be more artificial contouring than the Philips, which really didn't have any that I noticed.

I am still evaluating. In my eyes, they're both great sets. My wife prefers the look of the Philips. Features are very similar. Power swivel stand is cool, and actually functional to reduce screen glare. I miss the ambilight, but independent memory and day/night settings are a BIG plus. I will report back in a week or so once I have made up my mind.

Serus.

I had this issue yesterday, it started once I selected the input type in the settings for AV1. I selected cable, once I did this and changed input to TV and then back to AV1, AV1 went to soft and the picture appeared cleaner - i was watching a DVD at the time (AV1 is connected to my receiver S video out - DTV and DVD go through the receiver). I selected none for AV1 again and it keeps it at personal. As i have limited inputs so far I cannot test if it does this if you select HD as HDMI input. It either has calibrated settings that it thinks work with various inputs - presumably soft would work with SD Cable and help reduce picture noise. I will play around with the setting and see if it changes a HD selection to Natural for example.


Yup, that did it! I changed the input label to Cable instead of Digital STB and now it retains the "personal" setting. I wonder why it did that. Thanks for the tip!

Yup, that did it! I changed the input label to Cable instead of Digital STB and now it retains the "personal" setting. I wonder why it did that. Thanks for the tip!

I think it is in the manual - page 10.

day/night settings are a BIG plus. .

I think Philips is trying to do the same but sort of automatically - with its Active Control. If you make your settings with the light on, and then turn it off, the contrast and brightness change drastically with AC at Maximum. I am not sure that it is actually better, but the idea seems good - it is a day/night settings adjustments varying continuously to adjust to the change of light (and other things). I set it to minimum.

The second question is the electric bill. Have any users determined what the increase wattage has added to their monthly electric bill?

One of the things I read while researching plasma purchases showed a breakdown of power costs depending on the power draw of plasmas vs. traditional CRTs.

It came out to a $20 difference in electricity usage over the course of a YEAR. So you're looking about $2 difference per month having a plasma vs. a traditional CRT.

If you can't deal with that, probably shouldn't be looking at a plasma :)

Reading about some problems (or scares) people experiencing, I thought that i did the right thing purchasing extra 4 years of in-house warranty from RepairMaster for $160.
It covers everything that Philips covers, in-house, and uses the Brand authorized service people. Well ... on the paper. But, hey, $40 a year (or $32 if you count the 1st year) is worth a risk.


Hey Alek,

Where did you find this warranty for $160? I can't seem to find it on the internet for close to that price.

Thanks.

Ray1

I am waiting until my Oppo arrives tomorrow and my HD service from Comcast next week. I think I will buy a calibration disc, any recommendations - I have read about Avia. Having never calibrated before not sure exactly what is involved and how much I will need to adjust tint, contrast etc... but I want to give the Philips the best chance to wow me - especially with DVDs with the Oppo. I can live with choppy SD as most TVs i have seen look that way. As the Oppo can output 1080 will the Hitachi be better suited than the 768 of the Philips. I look forward to your evaluation as it could save me a trip to CC.

Yourefree, it's interesting you ask that question. I purchased the Philips about 2 weeks ago, and have been very happy with it. However, I was having a problem on DVDs, particularly with skin tones, that look very fake - very pixelated. I began to wonder whether I should look at another set while I was still within the 30 day return window. I purchased the Hitachi from CC to do a side by side with the Philips, and it was just deliverd last night. Incidentally, in the meantime I figured out my problem with the skin tones on the Philips...it was a setting on the DVD player.

So, I now have 2 sets in the house. The Philps has been packed to save some space, but I honestly haven't decided yet which I like better. The Philips screen feels larger. Not sure if that's an illusion because the set itself is larger, or if the screen really is a bit bigger. The PQ on the Hitachi is very nice. It's been more difficult to calibrate using DVE than the Philips was, and there might be more artificial contouring than the Philips, which really didn't have any that I noticed.

I am still evaluating. In my eyes, they're both great sets. My wife prefers the look of the Philips. Features are very similar. Power swivel stand is cool, and actually functional to reduce screen glare. I miss the ambilight, but independent memory and day/night settings are a BIG plus. I will report back in a week or so once I have made up my mind.

After reading the boards, literally all day yesterday I went for a drive and visited 4 retailers, BB, CC, EE, and P.C.R. I was and still am sold on the Philips, wel lthat was until i stopped in to C.C and they first explained that EE and P.C.R. have a no return policy.

Well now that I know where I am not buying(EE & PCR.) I looked at the displays and was there to compare the Panny to the philips and philips won.

What I was not prepared for was to speak to a semi imformed sales tech in store who proceeded to show me the Hitachi. I must admit I was very very impressed with PQ.

I was actually more impressed with the PQ than the Philips I had seen at four locations. I do think I will like the ambient light feature and the Hitachi is more expensive. My question is to Ray1 and to anyone having an Honest Opinion. Philips Vs. Hitachi?

Ray1 you are in a perfect scenario and having gotten the philips home and set up, only to order the Hitachi too, OMG what a coincidence. I would really be interested in your end diagnosis. Pros and cons.

The Philips was being offered on sale at $2699

The Hitachi came down from $3599 to $2989, I believe there is still SOME room for negotiations.

Chris

Christofu,

Im using a JVC progressive scan dvd player a two year old model connected via component input and it is working fine, no pixelation or anything like that. So far Ive played maybe 20 dvd movies and the unit works fine.

Serus,
your free,

I have a STB HD model connected to my AV inputs but its connected using component video. I can select any of the picture modes, soft whatever and it doesnt depend on whether its sd HD or Dvd. What I did do when I set up my HD box was to select all resolutions from the set up menu that my panel would support. They were 480i, 480I widescreen, 480P, 720P and 1080i. So whether or not my source in sd or dvd or HD the panel selects the resolution based on the input signal. This has worked well for me as the picture quality has been splendid. I know alot of this also has to do with the signal quality. I have cablevision in the NE and although I had heard alot of people say they suck, it appears that they really arent so bad, at least according to what I have seen so far. Especially since my SD is much better than my previous JVC 32 inch CRT that had a really good pic. I was shocked.

Here is an interesting infor from another thread about - ``Why Cablecard?''

"The HUGE advantage comes in the picture quality. For those of you under the
impression that the local cable company cares about quality and such things
as accurate scaling, you are sorely mistaken. Local cable companies charge a
small monthly fee (and usually no installation fee) for those utilizing
their equipment. What this means is that they are concerned about features
but certainly not about quality, since most of their customers are not aware
of what they are missing.

CableCARDs allow the user to decrypt digital cable and use higher quality
components to handle scaling and display of the cable channels.

Mitsubishi showed off two televisions displaying standard definition cable
channels side by side at the 2004 CEDIA Expo. One unit was displaying
digital cable via a provided set-top box, the other was using CableCARD. The
difference was astounding. The Mitsubishi's integrated scaler was of so much
higher quality then the one provided by the cheap set-top cable box that
clarity was improved, ghosting was dramatically reduced and (real) edge
detail was preserved - so much so, that I wondered how I was conned into
thinking that it was simply broadcast that way to begin with. THIS is why
CableCARD is such a significant development."

Hey Alek,

Where did you find this warranty for $160? I can't seem to find it on the internet for close to that price.

Thanks.

I just made a google search for RMT42500 (4 years for TV under $2500 - I paid $2444) and found it at http://www.simplycheap.com/warrrmt42500.html for $159.95 on sale (reg. $279.95).

I just made a google search for RMT42500 (4 years for TV under $2500 - I paid $2444) and found it at http://www.simplycheap.com/warrrmt42500.html for $159.95 on sale (reg. $279.95).

My receipt shows I paid $2330 for mine, I wonder if they'll accept it. Even though I purchased it from circuitcity, can I still get this warranty?

I just made a google search for RMT42500 (4 years for TV under $2500 - I paid $2444) and found it at http://www.simplycheap.com/warrrmt42500.html for $159.95 on sale (reg. $279.95).

Thanks Alek,

That was helpful. Unfortuneately, my receipt showed $2599. The $259 gift card does not show since it is being mailed, so i don't qualify for that price. It goes all the up to under $5000 from there looks like at $225. Still cheaper than CC at $299 and it looks like it starts after the manufacturer one ends, so in essence 5 yrs of protection. But it does not seem to comment on them coming to your house to fix it. It just says there is likely a service center near you. I would hate to try to haul this thing in, but it is better than trying to mail it. Anybody have any experience with Warrentech?

My receipt shows I paid $2330 for mine, I wonder if they'll accept it. Even though I purchased it from circuitcity, can I still get this warranty?


Serus,

I just purchased it on-line, and they sent me a contract or what they call a membership with a number. You need then to go to the RepairMaster (Warrantech) webpage http://www.myrepairmaster.com (or call) and register it. It does not seem to matter at all where you purchased it.

The contract says that the maximum of what you can get (if say they buy you a new set) is limited to your purchase price or $2,500. The people I talked you are concerned only with your purchase price (as they should).

They also have a 30-day return policy. So, if you don't like it, you can get a refund.

Thanks Alek,

That was helpful. Unfortuneately, my receipt showed $2599. The $259 gift card does not show since it is being mailed, so i don't qualify for that price. It goes all the up to under $5000 from there looks like at $225. Still cheaper than CC at $299 and it looks like it starts after the manufacturer one ends, so in essence 5 yrs of protection. But it does not seem to comment on them coming to your house to fix it. It just says there is likely a service center near you. I would hate to try to haul this thing in, but it is better than trying to mail it. Anybody have any experience with Warrentech?

They have a lot of warranties with numerous options (including any screen damage), in-house or not. My says, in-house.

You can look here too:

http://www.plasmaconcepts.com/plasma-tv-accessories/8.html

There is a large thread here about warranty - I read some, but it seems that people are just discussing rumors and various probability issues (whether they will need it or not).

I got the actual contract and actually read it. I looks better then Philips' (not in-house) to me.
Again, I am no expert, but for $160 I am willing to try it.

Christofu2,

Im curious what models numbers did u compare? When I viewed them at a local CC's (and I went there with an open mind( as u did) didnt matter which panel just the one I felt looked best and had good connectivity) the pic quality left alot to be desired. My friend works at CC and when I went there initially to do some viewing he showed me the space behind the wall that you dont normally get to see. Well talk about a bastardized version of cabling! Some were split numerous times before entering a panel, others were not, some were connected with high quality component cables others used 75 ohm coax. And one or two lines used a signal amp other lines did not. This can make a substantial difference in the picture quality it doesnt matter what panel it is. Thats why I think its so hard for people to make a decision on plasmas. The picture quality when viewed at stores is subject to many factors unknown to the viewer.

Craiglester,

Did you happen to read the thread on the dell plasma and pioneer buzz? With the dell problem they decided to use a belkin line conditioner/surge protector which according to some owners greatly eliminated the noise.In fact dell was sending them out as a potential fix. I think also, not 100 percent sure, but before the pioneer buzz was fixed by the manufacturer some users also reported the line conditioner helped.

My receipt shows I paid $2330 for mine, I wonder if they'll accept it. Even though I purchased it from circuitcity, can I still get this warranty?


Serus,

I did a search like Alek did and found it a little cheaper if you are interested. It would be $140 at the price you paid, $190 for me:

http://shop.theelectroniccompany.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.172/.f

Craiglester,

Did you happen to read the thread on the dell plasma and pioneer buzz? With the dell problem they decided to use a belkin line conditioner/surge protector which according to some owners greatly eliminated the noise.In fact dell was sending them out as a potential fix. I think also, not 100 percent sure, but before the pioneer buzz was fixed by the manufacturer some users also reported the line conditioner helped.


I'm using a Monster surge protector with power filtering, makes no difference at all.

From all i've read online, its due to the power supply having to work harder at altitude to spark across the gas which has been allowed to expand at atlitude dure to the slight expansion of the plasma panel itself. I'm hoping my replacement comes in from CC sometime soon so I can determine if mine is defective or not.

I listened to a panasonic in the store and they make a similar noise also, but at a MUCH lower volume. Apparently ALL plasma's make the noise, just to varying degrees. I'm sure if I was at sea Level the set I have would be just fine.


Ahh well, It's watchable, just need the sound up louder than i would normally have it.

All things considered I suppose it's a Minor gripe, but on a TV that cost $2699 I kinda expected better. Maybe I'm just TOO fussy

im thinking of getting the new lcd phillips with 1080 panel, pixelplus hd and ambilight 2. not sure if thats available stateside, but i saw it here last night and it looked pretty sweet to me....

krlock2

Has anyone had any luck using a PC- DVI to HDMI output with the Philips? If so, please share the powerstrip settings you used - I can't seem to figure out a real good configuration.

Thanks.

Christofu2,

Im curious what models numbers did u compare? When I viewed them at a local CC's (and I went there with an open mind( as u did) didnt matter which panel just the one I felt looked best and had good connectivity) the pic quality left alot to be desired. My friend works at CC and when I went there initially to do some viewing he showed me the space behind the wall that you dont normally get to see. Well talk about a bastardized version of cabling! Some were split numerous times before entering a panel, others were not, some were connected with high quality component cables others used 75 ohm coax. And one or two lines used a signal amp other lines did not. This can make a substantial difference in the picture quality it doesnt matter what panel it is. Thats why I think its so hard for people to make a decision on plasmas. The picture quality when viewed at stores is subject to many factors unknown to the viewer.

Good Afternoon Casey,

Thank you for your response and I agree with you whole heartedly. So much so, that I was out most of this afternoon, to visit two different B.B's and C.C's. I am fortunate because I live in central New Jersey and we have alot of retailers in a small area.

Anyway at B.B. I had a side by side comparison of the Philips 42PF9630A and the Panny 50u. on the other side of the panny was a 60" version of the same Philips TV with the ambiant lighting. I now have learned how to adjust the Philips instore and made them both the same.

The Panny did look crisper in this store so I asked for the remote. I check the settings and the TV was set for vivid. I do not think it was an equal comparison, and I am not trying to convince myself that Panny is the set. On the contrary, I really wanted the Philips to "WOW ME!!" like the Pioneer and Hitachi have done. Again in this store, it did not. It looked great, dont get me wrong, but I am becoming less likely to go this direction now.

I know that lines, connections, splits and cabeling used is critical, and obviously the sets these companies want to sell will get the best connections. In store comaprison are maybe not the best nuetral ground but they are there, and I have to trust my eyes and investigations. I have looked at 6 Phillips now at six different locations, and have been interested, but not enough to jump.

However I then went to C.C and looked at the new Hitachi 42HDS52 vs. The Philips and the Pioneer. IMHO I am ready to take the plunge. I also met with the most knowledgeable sales manager to date. He also encouraged reading reviews here on AVS forums. To make a long story short, no one directed me to a particular set in this store. I went to what stood out in my opinion, and I also looked for the Philips specifically. I tweaked the Hitachi down, and played with the Pioneer, Left the Philips alone this time, and Hitachi has my vote right now. The PQ was stunning to me ( as good as any Pioneer that I have seen thus far, and they have been the most impressive sets to me, including the Elites.) The cost on the Hitachi right now is ($2960.) vs. Phillips at $2660

I am however going to costco to look at their Pioneers because people here on the forums, say that their liberal return policy should be investigated. I have also learned that they do in home service and Installation. I may just have to go see. The only thing is the cheapest Pioneer I have seen is $3999 and thats after a price drop. Also there is talk on the forums that some of the Pioneers have a buzzing issue from the Panel.

Again thank you for your reply Casey and this is just my opinion, I have really been doing my homework, and I am not buying until I am 100% convinced that I have MY PERSONAL CHOICE BEST SET!!!! I know your not trying to sway me, and I you are genuinely curious as to my investigations. That is why I really like this format because everyone here has their own experiences.

Chris

For people who are trying to make their choice I would strongly recommend to read some professional comparison reviews, e.g., at http://www.pcworld.com/reviews/article/0,aid,121139,00.asp or www.ecoustics.com.

I do not say - ``follow them'', no, these reviews simply may have some hints on where to look, what features etc. you should pay attention to.

For example, in this PSWorld review, the reviewers selected the best plasma for HD, which is not necessarily the best plasma for SD, and so on.

Sometimes people tend to think the higher price the better and BTW,
Hitachi 42HDF52 in CC is only $2399 now on-line. And newer sets have lower prices.

I think picking a TV just looking at store displays is deceptive: they often and usually run some special recorded material or something like that at very tricky
artificial light ... When you take it home and try dvds, HD, SD different settings, ambilight, etc., it is usually very different experience.

In general, any plasma out there is not bad at all! (Well ... maybe not all but many) It is very difficult to make a choice. I have my set for 4 weeks now, I am still playing with settings, and each day I have a different impression.

It is sort of like to chose a car. Some will always pick Honda or Lexes, while the others a WV or MB and there is no way to say which is better.

Ray1

I am waiting until my Oppo arrives tomorrow and my HD service from Comcast next week. I think I will buy a calibration disc, any recommendations - I have read about Avia. Having never calibrated before not sure exactly what is involved and how much I will need to adjust tint, contrast etc... but I want to give the Philips the best chance to wow me - especially with DVDs with the Oppo. I can live with choppy SD as most TVs i have seen look that way. As the Oppo can output 1080 will the Hitachi be better suited than the 768 of the Philips. I look forward to your evaluation as it could save me a trip to CC.

I think I'll be sticking with the Hitachi, and returning the Philips. This is not in any way a knock on the Philips. I think it's a fabulous set. In the end, I slightly preferred the Hitachi PQ - HD images seemed to have a bit more punch. I have already used the swivel stand much more than I had thought (akin to ambilight, which was much more useful than I thought), and I really do like the independent memory, with a day/night mode for easy switching in different lighting conditions. I never did set the 2 up side by side to do a real comparison, but my gut reaction was the Hitachi will work better for me, in spite of the $200 price differential.

I strongly feel I couldn't have gone wrong either way. My wife actually preferred the Philips, probably based more on how the unit looks than the PQ. She did comment that standard definition programming was more "fuzzy" on the Hitachi than the Philips, which is probably true. Maybe because of the increased resolution?

As far as DVD players go, I have the Panasonic S97, and with both TVs I found it best to set the player to 480P, and let the TV do the upconverting. In fact, the initial reason behind my search for another TV was when my S97 was set to 768P with the Philips, I saw significant noise and artifacts in dark scenes and on skin. Because I thought it may be a problem with the TV, I began to explore other options while I was within the 30 day return window. I subsequently altered the DVD player settings to 480P and noticed a significant improvement. The same holds true for the Hitachi. So I would let the TV upconvert rather than the DVD player, at least based on my experience.

Christofu2,
Thanks for the info, whatever you decide to do,,,,,,,,,,,ENJOY!

Craiglester,

I dont think your to fussy at all, hell one thing I wouldnt tolerate is a noisy panel. No buzzing whirring or anything like that would be acceptable for me. I live not far above sea level and maybe thats why mine is totally silent.

This weekend we have free HBO with one HD channel. I just watched some of Medallion on HD with the light off and ambilight. Well ... I did not think that it can be that good. Amazing! I have no desire whatsoever even to think of other TV (though, of course, they can be great). Other not HD HBO channels look also outstanding, especially compared to the regular low quality SD channels. Not really HD, but if you have not been just watching HD, you might think at some scenes that you are watching it. I will probably subscribe to HBO now (otherwise it would be a waste).

In fact, the initial reason behind my search for another TV was when my S97 was set to 768P with the Philips, I saw significant noise and artifacts in dark scenes and on skin.

Naturally, I meant to say 720P, not 768P.

Ray1

I find myself in the same situation. I am seriously contemplating swapping the Philips for the Hitachi. I hooked up the Oppo DVD player to the Philip's via HDMI today and played a couple of DVDs to get an initial impression. I selected Natural settings for the test and I have not touched the Oppo. I understand this is an uncalibrated test but I wanted to get a feel for the overall PQ with DVDs. I used Kill Bill2, Wizard of Oz, Austin Powers, Big Lebowski so a mix of quality levels. Kill Bill was the best but I noticed in some scenes i was getting pixelation (not sure of all terminology) on the background wall in a room - it was a yellow ish wall and parts appeared blocky and with a pinkish tone. The blacks did look good. I played with 480/720/1080 output on the Oppo. I am going to take the same discs and the oppo to the local store and hook it up to the Hitachi and Philips so I can do some more tests. I mainly watch DVDs - or at least that is where I want the best PQ. seeing Letterman in HD is nice but the priority is movies. If the PQ on both is very close with the Oppo I will stay with Philips because i do like the ambilight.

Any suggestions for making the test fair or for calibrating the Philips - i haven't messed too much with DNR, active control yet. I have been keeping the settings low for the initial 100 hours except for the tests today when I selected natural.

Ray1

I find myself in the same situation. I am seriously contemplating swapping the Philips for the Hitachi. I hooked up the Oppo DVD player to the Philip's via HDMI today and played a couple of DVDs to get an initial impression. I selected Natural settings for the test and I have not touched the Oppo. I understand this is an uncalibrated test but I wanted to get a feel for the overall PQ with DVDs. I used Kill Bill2, Wizard of Oz, Austin Powers, Big Lebowski so a mix of quality levels. Kill Bill was the best but I noticed in some scenes i was getting pixelation (not sure of all terminology) on the background wall in a room - it was a yellow ish wall and parts appeared blocky and with a pinkish tone. The blacks did look good. I played with 480/720/1080 output on the Oppo. I am going to take the same discs and the oppo to the local store and hook it up to the Hitachi and Philips so I can do some more tests. I mainly watch DVDs - or at least that is where I want the best PQ. seeing Letterman in HD is nice but the priority is movies. If the PQ on both is very close with the Oppo I will stay with Philips because i do like the ambilight.




Any suggestions for making the test fair or for calibrating the Philips - i haven't messed too much with DNR, active control yet. I have been keeping the settings low for the initial 100 hours except for the tests today when I selected natural.


The colors you're seeing on walls etc is not a problem with the phillips, it's a problem with the faroudja processing chip in the Oppo. It's called macroblocking, and only occurs if you're using the dvi output. I get it too, but if i switch to the component input it will go away, so its definately the Oppo.

As of yet there is no set fix for it, but aparrently a well calibrated set will minimize the atifacts significantly.

I have noticed that the phillips set *seems* to do 3:2 pull down when using the component input, and the scaler on the set is very good, so you could watch via component to eliminate the macroblocking, but you'd lose the truelife and cross color seperation that he oppo does over dvi.

complicated isnt it :)

The colors you're seeing on walls etc is not a problem with the phillips, it's a problem with the faroudja processing chip in the Oppo. It's called macroblocking, and only occurs if you're using the dvi output. I get it too, but if i switch to the component input it will go away, so its definately the Oppo.

As of yet there is no set fix for it, but aparrently a well calibrated set will minimize the atifacts significantly.

I have noticed that the phillips set *seems* to do 3:2 pull down when using the component input, and the scaler on the set is very good, so you could watch via component to eliminate the macroblocking, but you'd lose the truelife and cross color seperation that he oppo does over dvi.

complicated isnt it :)

That is the exact problem I was having. By switching to 480P, I nearly eliminated all of the noise. I noticed the same with the Hitachi, so it's definitely not a Philips issue. I am using HDMI with my Panasonic DVD player. I haven't tried connecting with components. I'll give that a shot to see if there is any appreciable improvement in the PQ. But as of now, the problem is nearly, if not completely, gone.

I am getting loads of red noise on faces, background (mostly yellow and light images) I moved tint around which helped a bit. Clearly the tv and oppo need to be calibrated.

If I use component with the Oppo isn't that defeating the purpose of this DVD player? Woudn't any name brand DVD player connected with component be as good? I wanted the upconverting feature to give me the best possible PQ. I will search other threads for Oppo related issues.

My plan is to take the Oppo to CC tomorrow and connect it to Hitachi, Philips, even Panasonic and choose the best PQ - if that is Hitachi I will return the Philips. My wife is now truly sick of all this TV talk and is not impressed so far with the Philips DVD picture. I did get to see some of the CBS tennis HD feed today and that certainly looked good. My TV is getting the HD from a Coax connection (comcast). When I get the Cable card hooked up will that improve the picture/stay the same?

Anyone throw out some calibration numbers for the Philips -I won't have a disc for a while and some rough starting points would help. Thanks

im thinking of getting the new lcd phillips with 1080 panel, pixelplus hd and ambilight 2. not sure if thats available stateside, but i saw it here last night and it looked pretty sweet to me....

krlock2

This is the one I'm watching for. I haven't seen it in person yet. Its supposed to be available this month sometime. If you have any info on this set, please share. 42PF9730A Forum (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=5990854#post5990854)

I am getting loads of red noise on faces, background (mostly yellow and light images) I moved tint around which helped a bit. Clearly the tv and oppo need to be calibrated.

If I use component with the Oppo isn't that defeating the purpose of this DVD player? Woudn't any name brand DVD player connected with component be as good? I wanted the upconverting feature to give me the best possible PQ. I will search other threads for Oppo related issues.

My plan is to take the Oppo to CC tomorrow and connect it to Hitachi, Philips, even Panasonic and choose the best PQ - if that is Hitachi I will return the Philips. My wife is now truly sick of all this TV talk and is not impressed so far with the Philips DVD picture. I did get to see some of the CBS tennis HD feed today and that certainly looked good. My TV is getting the HD from a Coax connection (comcast). When I get the Cable card hooked up will that improve the picture/stay the same?

Anyone throw out some calibration numbers for the Philips -I won't have a disc for a while and some rough starting points would help. Thanks

yourefree:

You can do some calibration for dvds fairly easy by using the THX Optimizer - it is available on many THX dvds (Star Wars, Pirates ..., etc.) It will help you to chose contrast, britness, color, and tint. You may need some special glasses for colors, which can be oredered from the THX website.

When I am watching HD programming and some other channels I see periodically some digital artifacts (``running squares'' etc.). Sometimes more often, sometimes not so often. It is annoying.

I think it is the quality of the signal. We had a major problem when it was really bad for a couple of days which they actually acknowledged. Normally it is not so bad, but still annoying. I was wondering how bad it is in other places? We have Adelphia here and I understand that they somehow transmit the signal from a remote place.

Probably analogue channels also have distortion, but it is less noticeable. When however they mess with a stream of bytes and the processing collapses, it is rather noticeable with normally perfect HD picture.

Alek,

I have Cablevision. Had it for many years prior to my panel purchase also. I updated my box about two weeks or so ago to an HD SA STB. So far I am really impressed with the signal quality. A few years ago our local company upgraded all the lines to fiber optic so I think that has made things alot better. Even SD looks good, not a step down from my previous analog box, rather a big step up. Your right with signal quality, I have read as you have many threads from all over the country and beyond talking about it. From what I can gather it depends on your particular local cable company or satellite feed as well as your equipment. They all arent created equal thats for sure. Its no wonder you get so many diverse and differing opinions on panels from viewers. To bad we werent all on a level playing field, if that was the case it would only be the panel that caused any difference.

If it's any help to anyone, I was able to hook my PC up to the Philips using a cheap $10 DVI-HDMI cable from monoprice.com. Picture looked pretty good at 1024x768. I even played some HL2 on the panel. It looked pretty good, but I can't form a solid opinion until I try it out more. I'm in the process of moving, it's going to take me a few more days until I can try it again...So far so good though!

I did take my Oppo to the store this weekend and did some tests (I even tried the ED option and the sony 3LCD wega for comparison). I ended up taking the Hitachi 42HDS52 and returning the 42PF9630A. The PQ I got from the Oppo via HDMI was better for me on the Hitachi (less red noise - macro blocking). I do prefer the menu system and unique picture settings on the Hitachi. As Ray1 states, the Philip's is a great set and I guess that is why there are so many options out there, but for me with the OPPO upconverting I prefer the PQ on the Hitachi.

Alek,

I have Cablevision. Had it for many years prior to my panel purchase also. I updated my box about two weeks or so ago to an HD SA STB. So far I am really impressed with the signal quality. A few years ago our local company upgraded all the lines to fiber optic so I think that has made things alot better. Even SD looks good, not a step down from my previous analog box, rather a big step up. Your right with signal quality, I have read as you have many threads from all over the country and beyond talking about it. From what I can gather it depends on your particular local cable company or satellite feed as well as your equipment. They all arent created equal thats for sure. Its no wonder you get so many diverse and differing opinions on panels from viewers. To bad we werent all on a level playing field, if that was the case it would only be the panel that caused any difference.

Casey Jones:

I am pretty happy with the PQ. The problem I mentioned is not bad, and this new set is principally better than my old 27" Trinitron for all channels (not to mention HD and HBO SD). Now even my wife is very happy - she now claims that it is her TV and does not give me the remote anymore. Well ... we have it for a month and I guess the break-in period is over (which, I believe involves the breaking-in of the new owners as much as o fthe gear). I am not going to the menu every minute and we just enjoy watching it. HBO SD channels are pretty much of dvd 480p quality for practical purposes, and many other double digit cannels are pretty good, while others are also watchable. It is the matter of finding the correct settings. Ambilight is a rather pelasing part here. (BTW, even if you don't owm Philips, you just can put somehow a lamp behind your screen, say, blue, it will be also a free ambilight of some kind.)

As to the digital noise, well sometimes it is not there at all and I think it is the cable company issues. I started a new thread about it and there people also talk about their experience with HD programming:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6139373#post6139373

So, is it possible to get 1:1 pixel mapping using an HTPC? I've seen comments as I've started to search around in the plasma forum that you can't do that. That seems just crazy to me. I want to be able to hook it up to my PC and have it display a resolution that exactly matches the resolution of the display itself.

Tim

If it's any help to anyone, I was able to hook my PC up to the Philips using a cheap $10 DVI-HDMI cable from monoprice.com. Picture looked pretty good at 1024x768. I even played some HL2 on the panel. It looked pretty good, but I can't form a solid opinion until I try it out more. I'm in the process of moving, it's going to take me a few more days until I can try it again...So far so good though!

Okay I've run into a new problem.

I bought a PLA-1 Series mount from Mountsandmore.com. They suggested the PL-LCD42 adapter plate for the Philips 42PF9630A. Peerless also recommends the exact same adapter plate.

I got everything mounted and ready for the TV. Take the TV off it's tabletop stand, align the mount, and notice the bolts supplied with the mount are WAY too small. Okay, I check the Philips box and find it's own set of very large bolts. The only problem now is that the holes in the adapter plate are too small for the much larger bolts of the Philips.

No idea where I'm supposed to go from here. I emailed peerless, but it's going to take them a while to respond I'm sure. The only option I can think of is to drill larger holes in the adapter plate. The problem I see with that is that there is only a quarter of an inch of steel between the existing hole and the edge of the plate. If I drill a larger hole, won't it compromise the integrity of the plate and possibly cause it to fail? I'm still not sure why peerless would suggest something that they sell, that doesn't fit. Thanks for any help/suggestions!

I have spent all day reading this thread. Wow, I have learned a tremendous amount from people contemplating purchases to troubleshooting. Thank you for taking the time to post, as this will allow me to draw my own conclusions.

My questions are simple but I am curious.

Has anyone noticed an increased room temperature that I have heard can be symptomatic with Plasma? If so how big is the room? And does the temperature increase as you get closer to the set?

The second question is the electric bill. Have any users determined what the increase wattage has added to their monthly electric bill?

Is it significant or has minimal increases been noted?

Thanks for all the replys and I will post as well once I complete my research.

Chris

Have not noticed increased room temp, but I always have the air on. Have 42" plasma. If you are concerned about electric power comsumption, there is a Plasma glass that uses about 1/2 the power of a regular plasma. It is called ALiS glass, has a resolution of 1024 x 1024. That is the one I have and it works great.
Google ALiS plasma screen for more info.

Can anybody share information regarding wall mounts for this television. Has anybody mounted this TV on a wall? What wall mount did you use?

Can anybody share information regarding wall mounts for this television. Has anybody mounted this TV on a wall? What wall mount did you use?

good question, i thought this unit CAME with a wall mount kit tho?

this unit only comes with bolts. Some early descriptions had a wall mount, but that is not the case.

So far, I know for sure that Peerless doesn't make a mount for this set. I had to take pictures of my TV to email them so they can make the mount. Hopefully I'll have mine mounted by the end of next week. I hate waiting.

So far, I know for sure that Peerless doesn't make a mount for this set. I had to take pictures of my TV to email them so they can make the mount. Hopefully I'll have mine mounted by the end of next week. I hate waiting.

No offense, but I can't believe that the only way to mount this TV is to have a custom made wall mount?!? Why would Philips make a TV that fits no wall mount. There must be somebody out there who can give a straight answer on what wall mount they used. Again, I'm not criticizing you. I'm just frustrated that I can't get any answers on this. I am very interested in the LCD version of this TV, but if I have to jump through hoops to get a wall mount, I won't be buying a Philips. I need a TV that can be mounted on the Wall. I need the floor space.

No offense, but I can't believe that the only way to mount this TV is to have a custom made wall mount?!? Why would Philips make a TV that fits no wall mount. There must be somebody out there who can give a straight answer on what wall mount they used. Again, I'm not criticizing you. I'm just frustrated that I can't get any answers on this. I am very interested in the LCD version of this TV, but if I have to jump through hoops to get a wall mount, I won't be buying a Philips. I need a TV that can be mounted on the Wall. I need the floor space.


Read the previous post of mine about my articulating wall mount that I purchased from Peerless. The adapter plate that peerless was selling for the Philips 42PF9630A did not fit. I have been in contact with peerless and mountsandmore.com. Peerless had no other adapter plate that fit this model Philips. I had to take pictures of my TV and email them to Peerless so they could begin to make an apropriate adapter plate. It seems that the screw holes on the back of the TV are much larger than other models and thus needed an adjustment. To my knowlege, a few days ago was the first time Peerless had been informed of this problem.

So, my statement that Peerless doesn't make an adapter plate for the Philips 42PF9630A is 100% accurate.

Also, the adapter plate is for an articulating wall arm. Not a typical wall mount. You might be able to find something in another brand. I was told the new mount should be available early next week and Peerless will be sending me one as soon as they make it.

Also, since you are interested in the LCD version, it is probably MUCH different as far as hole locations and screw size. There is probably a mount for it. Go to www.mountsandmore.com and look up mounts specifically for the model you want, but be leery if its adapter plate is the generic "PLP-LCD42" mount. :)

So again, don't buy Peerless because it won't work for the 42PF9630A Plasma TV. Peerless recomends the PLP-LCD42 Adapter Plate for the PLA-1 Series Articulating Wall Mount, and it does not fit.

Most LCD and Plasma TV's follow the VESA standard. It's a standard distance between mounting holes, making easier for manufacturers to make mounts. Philips went and screwed it up though by using larger bolts than usual with this TV.

I just don't get it... it took me forever to get the PLP LCD42 and now i find out it won't fit.... and how will i know if the LCD verision of this tv ( 42PF9730A ) has the same problem as the plasma, the casing for both TV's is identical and the manual is the same so i guess it must be.

Well i've sent an E-mail to peerless to let them know. Does anyone know if they would make a custom bracket for it and how much it will be. If not, when will a bracket be available becasue my tv will be here in 2 weeks and it will have nowhere to go.

[Edit - after looking at BB's site - I realized the manual is generic for several models, and I had posted the wrong model# for the mount I have, sorry. Correct model I have is VMPL/S.]

I have mine mounted with a Sanus System Model# VMPL/S and adapter VMB1b. Both available at Bestbuy website (My local BB had the wall mount in stock, but not the adapter kit)

I was also able to press Best Buy into giving me the wall mount kit by [nicely]speaking with the store manager - I took a printout of the website product page where it cleary stated 'wall mounting kit included'. She agreed that it did sound like it should be more than the 4 bolts and gave me the kit. Not sure if BB has updated this or not yet.

I have had mine up for 30 days now, and it is rock solid.

-Ed

I have mine mounted with a Sanus System Model# VMPLb and adapter VMB1b. Both available at Bestbuy website (My local BB had the wall mount in stock, but not the adapter kit)

I was also able to press Best Buy into giving me the wall mount kit by [nicely]speaking with the store manager - I took a printout of the website product page where it cleary stated 'wall mounting kit included'. She agreed that it did sound like it should be more than the 4 bolts and gave me the kit. Not sure if BB has updated this or not yet.

I have had mine up for 30 days now, and it is rock solid.

-Ed
Thanks for the information. This is the first "success story" I've heard with mounting this TV. At least we know there is a wall mount that works with. Thanks again for the info.

Thanks for the information. This is the first "success story" I've heard with mounting this TV. At least we know there is a wall mount that works with. Thanks again for the info.


Glad to help. Now if I could only get the display setting figured out to work with my media PC I'd have a working TV room :-)

As an FYI, the adapter kit seems a little hokey at first, but once you get everything bolted in place it gets real solid.

I just don't get it... it took me forever to get the PLP LCD42 and now i find out it won't fit.... and how will i know if the LCD verision of this tv ( 42PF9730A ) has the same problem as the plasma, the casing for both TV's is identical and the manual is the same so i guess it must be.

Well i've sent an E-mail to peerless to let them know. Does anyone know if they would make a custom bracket for it and how much it will be. If not, when will a bracket be available becasue my tv will be here in 2 weeks and it will have nowhere to go.


Might help if you read post. The one right before your answers your question about the Peerless adapter plate. The should have a new model for these sets sometime next week. Just let the place you purchased your plate from know and they will send you the new adapter plate and a UPS label to send back the PLP-LCD42.

At least you've got a couple more weeks wait. I'm just in need of the plate to hang mine. Don't bother contacting peerless via email, they haven't responded to me and it's been almost a week. I've been dealing with the place I purchased mine, who has a direct line to Peerless.

I can probably help some of you with the wall mount issue. I visited this blog many times trying to find answers to the mysterious wall mount problem. I wanted to mount it to the wall. I have to say that Philips really made it hard on this Plasma TV to be able to get a wall mount that would fit. I had to improvise on mine....
I purchased the Omnimount U3F fixed mount from mountsandmore for $125 which was delivered in about 4 days. I took the gamble because neither Philips nor any mount manufacturer could tell me with conviction what the proper mount for this set was. When I bought my TV at CC they suggested the "Omnimount" so I went that route.
When I was installing the mount to the TV I noticed that the part that attaches to the Plasma, if installed in the Vesa holes, would exceed the length of the part that attaches to the wall. What I decided to do then is use the 3 screw holes (that are used for the table stand, and not the ones for the wall mount (Vesa)). Note, you will need a "star"- shaped screwdriver tip to unscrew/screw the hardware . This, then, narrowed the length of the brackets and the set could then be mounted (fit) to the part on the wall.
I installed both brackets on either side and mounted the set to the wall.
I am happy to inform that the TV is still hanging and it has been a few weeks now.
Obviously, I would have rather used the 4 mounting holes on the set. But I don't think this set is in danger of falling off. (Note: you can buy an Omnimount extension which will probably line up with the Vesa mounting holes).

I can probably help some of you with the wall mount issue. I visited this blog many times trying to find answers to the mysterious wall mount problem. I wanted to mount it to the wall. I have to say that Philips really made it hard on this Plasma TV to be able to get a wall mount that would fit. I had to improvise on mine....
I purchased the Omnimount U3F fixed mount from mountsandmore for $125 which was delivered in about 4 days. I took the gamble because neither Philips nor any mount manufacturer could tell me with conviction what the proper mount for this set was. When I bought my TV at CC they suggested the "Omnimount" so I went that route.
When I was installing the mount to the TV I noticed that the part that attaches to the Plasma, if installed in the Vesa holes, would exceed the length of the part that attaches to the wall. What I decided to do then is use the 3 screw holes (that are used for the table stand, and not the ones for the wall mount (Vesa)). Note, you will need a "star"- shaped screwdriver tip to unscrew/screw the hardware . This, then, narrowed the length of the brackets and the set could then be mounted (fit) to the part on the wall.
I installed both brackets on either side and mounted the set to the wall.
I am happy to inform that the TV is still hanging and it has been a few weeks now.
Obviously, I would have rather used the 4 mounting holes on the set. But I don't think this set is in danger of falling off. (Note: you can buy an Omnimount extension which will probably line up with the Vesa mounting holes).

I thought about doing this too - but those bolts did not seem strong enough, nor did the sockets go all the way into the frame. For me it was worth the extra 2 day wait and $40 to order the right Sumus systems brackets and NOT put my $3k TV, and people in my living room at risk.

I'm glad this works for you, and you are happy, but I would not reccomend this method.

I have mine mounted using the Sanus low profile mount (not sure what the model # is). I didn't need any of the extra pieces. I just installed the main bracket on the wall and the TV fits right on. The two round pieces on the back of the tv that are used to slide into the tv stand actually hook right over the top of the bracket. The bad thing is that I basically paid $200 for a piece of metal and a few bolts.

Sorry: coupon talk is not allowed on AVS

I am getting loads of red noise on faces, background (mostly yellow and light images) I moved tint around which helped a bit. Clearly the tv and oppo need to be calibrated.
While I know yourefree already swapped the unit out I thought that I would share this with everyone else. I've been dealing with a service issue on a 42PF9976 and I had the same red noise issue. During a swap of a "small signal board" from Philips, the issue disappeared completely. Whether this was a hardware component problem or factory calibration issue, I'm not sure.

I heard from peerless and this is what they said:

I apologize for the inconvenience. We were only recently made aware that the screws were not the correct size. The information will be removed from our site today. Our only option to size that screen correctly is to get a screen in house to make a dedicated plate for it. Unfortunately we have not had any one volunteer to have their screen sent in to us. If this would be an option for you let me know. We do have a program of course where we would incur all of the freight cost to ship this. In addition you would receive a mount of your choice for free. I know that would not be much incentive considering you have the mount already. Until we get a screen here we will not be able ensure that we have a plate that works. Let me know!

Thanks
Carey
Peerless Industries, Inc.


being that my tv won't be here any time soon. this may be an option for someone else.

I finally connected on Sunday the TV's digital out to my pre/pro set to 2 main speakers only as I have only a stereo system in the living room (my wife would really hate to see more, and even these two speakers). And the sound quality was excellent in Stereo and in DD 5.1 output.
I watched Rome and Shark Tale and surfed other channels - did not feel deprived of anything. Of course, it is much better sound compared to TV's speakers.

I was only wondering how I can turn off the TV sound - I simply turned it off or I could use the mute button.

After a month of owning I stopped to agust anything and to worry about the PQ - I think I found satisfying settings: contr. 50, Br. 50, Color 49 and zero sharpness, - 1 tint, CT normal, pp on, dnr min, dc med, ce off, ac min and I usually watch when it is dark (with just a reading lamp on in the room). The PQ seems to improve greatly this way.

My cable company installed me a signal amplifier for free and I use Monster ht 800 designed to pass HD signal.

I thought about doing this too - but those bolts did not seem strong enough, nor did the sockets go all the way into the frame. For me it was worth the extra 2 day wait and $40 to order the right Sumus systems brackets and NOT put my $3k TV, and people in my living room at risk.

I'm glad this works for you, and you are happy, but I would not reccomend this method.
I took the gamble since I am using six screws (3 and 3) and the force is distributed through all six. Did have my reservations though, not only because of the small screws, but also because I did not know how strong those sockets are. I used washers to get a good grip. I might buy the extension, although using the Vesa screws provided adds about 1.5-2 inches to the depth of the TV in addition to the depth already added by the wall mount.
I can appreciate you doing things the "right" way. I am curious, how do you attach the extension to the wall piece.

I have mine mounted using the Sanus low profile mount (not sure what the model # is). I didn't need any of the extra pieces. I just installed the main bracket on the wall and the TV fits right on. The two round pieces on the back of the tv that are used to slide into the tv stand actually hook right over the top of the bracket. The bad thing is that I basically paid $200 for a piece of metal and a few bolts.
Thanks oldrtyfrog! This proves, EDH72, that the sockets and screws are strong enough!! I can rest better now...

Doesnt the omnimountu3 come with the extensions?

EDh72
Oldrtyfrg,

I have been waiting for this kind of feedback on wall mounts. Since the 9630a bolt holes are spaced 32 inches apart can you tell me if the wall plate it attaches to accommodates that width. Meaning is it over 32 inches . Also how much space is left between the panel when mounted and the wall? Do you find it adequate for your hands when making connections.

Thanks for the assist
Casey

Casey Jones,
If you buy the Omnimount wall mount. you will need the extension unless you do what I did (see my earlier thread), or if you buy the Sanus (see oldrtyfrog's thread.) The space between the wall mount and the set is adequate enough to make the necessary connections. I suggest you make the connections first, mount the set to the wall mount, and pull the cables neatly (to hide them, etc..). I mounted mine to an entertainment center display panel and fed the cables through a hole on the display panel. Looks great!

Casey,
Once mounted, there is about an extra inch of space on each side of the bracket. The TV sticks out a little over an inch from the wall, but I have mine mounted over a TV nook, so I just nailed some trim around the nook to make it look a little better (before the trim was up, you could see behind the tv and into the nook, which looked like crap). I had to plug in my cables before I mounted it because a mantle is directly underneath the tv, but it seems like a tight fit even without a mantle.

bhang
Oldrtyfrog,

Thanks alot for the feedback. I guess what I was told at CC was wrong about the omnimount. They said the extensions were included in the box with the mount. It seems they are actually special order.

Casey

I took the gamble since I am using six screws (3 and 3) and the force is distributed through all six. Did have my reservations though, not only because of the small screws, but also because I did not know how strong those sockets are. I used washers to get a good grip. I might buy the extension, although using the Vesa screws provided adds about 1.5-2 inches to the depth of the TV in addition to the depth already added by the wall mount.
I can appreciate you doing things the "right" way. I am curious, how do you attach the extension to the wall piece.


The kit came with bolts and nuts to mount the extension. I agree on adding the 2"'s to the depth. The TV still looks great, but being my first plasma, I was a little shocked at how far it sticks out from the wall. I'll keep my eyes open for a more flush mounting option down the road.

well folks i think i'm ready to take the plunge & get me a 9630! :)... i would love to hear from all of you owners as to WHERE you bought your unit from (not necessarily the store) but whether it was at a local store or online. i created a thread & poll to measure the responses.. please check it out!!!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=581350

Can anyone tell me for sure if the omnimount includes the extensions?

casey,
i noticed you left a message on the poll, but doesnt appear that you voted? if not, then CAST your vote dude! :)

along with all other plasma owners on here! so far it appears that half of the owners have bought online. so come on in & join the vote party!

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=581350

kahlil

Phew.. I just got my replacement TV from CC, because the old one had a pretty loud buzzing..

I'm pleased to say the new set is MUCH quieter, no obnoxious buzzing when the tv gets brighter or if I turn the ambilights on. There IS a VERY slight buzz from the TV but I have to get within 6 inches or so of the top of the set (with ambilight and a pure white screen displayed) to hear it and then it's pretty faint, so I assume that's normal.

Oddly the new tv smells different.. like a new piece of electronics does when you first switch it on.. the old set never had any smell, and judging from the screwmounts in the back, we think it may have been a display model. BAD CircuitCity

No dead pixels I can detect on this set either...

I'm So much happier today!

alas I have to go through another 100 hour burn in period now :( Grr

Craiglester,

Glad to hear the good news,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,ENJOY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

I think the extension bolts are only to give the plasma some more space to make connections on AV1-AV3. If you are using HDMI I don't think you would need to use them. Also, you may want to check out something like this if you think the TV is sticking out too far, it may allow you to remove the spacer bolts:

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&product%5Fid=274-915

The spec sheet on Philips website also lists the VESA pattern as 800mm x 400mm I checked the spacing screw at Home Depot and it is a metric M8.

Can anyone tell me for sure if the omnimount includes the extensions?
It DOES NOT include the extensions.

Is there anyone here using the internal tuner to pick up HD content over cable... CBS NBC etc.. We do, but for some reason we only ever get a Dolby Prologic signal, not Proper Dolby Digital...

I have the Digital output fed to my Home theater and it passes through Dolby Digital, Dts etc from the DVD player no problem, but I Can't seem to get Dolby Digital from the tuner.

I guess it COULD be comcast not sending the signal through unmoleseted, but it seems it would be a lot more difficult for them to change it than leave it alone.

Is it a setting on the TV I have it set for Virtual dolby in the sound options...should it be plain old stereo ?

I wanna watch my CSI in 5.1!


Edit:spelling

I have a Ambilight question ...

I would be putting the TV in a corner diagonally on a stand ~ 1 foot or so away from the walls. Would the Ambilight be effective there ... or do you think that the Ambilight works best against a wall?

Craiglester,

I had the same problem and was able to resolve it today. My setup might be a little different then yours but heres what I noticed. I am using the set top box (HD version) The audio was connected to my home theater via composite audio cables. Whenever a show that was supposed to be in 5.1 came on my home theater (just like yours) picked it up in Dolby pro logic!!! So heres what I did to get 5.1 using my STB I went into the setup menu and changed the digital audio output jack to "dolby digital". You also need to go into the sound menu and make sure you have selected 'Normal" or you will get a echo effect. I was then able to get 5.1 sound but only on those channels that broacast or make available the show in 5.1. All the others remain dolby pro logic but the home theater selects each mode automatically now. So you need to connect a separate cable to the external digital audio output of the STB to the digital input on your theater.
Yup Ill be watching CSI in 5.1 :) :) :)

Does anyone know where you can get the extensions for the omnimount? Does CC have them or do you need to order from Omnimount?

The BigWookie,

IMHO against the wall for sure!

well folks, the poll results after 106 votes thus far:

seems there is an approximately even split between those buying in-store vs cyber ~40% each.... interesting fact about purchase protection plan is that they are obtained almost 3 times as often with in-store purchase (17%) vs over the internet (6%)

see for yourself at (& vote too!):
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=581350


thanks to all on here who have voted like casey, et.al.,,

Is there anyone here using the internal tuner to pick up HD content over cable... CBS NBC etc.. We do, but for some reason we only ever get a Dolby Prologic signal, not Proper Dolby Digital...

I have the Digital output fed to my Home theater and it passes through Dolby Digital, Dts etc from the DVD player no problem, but I Can't seem to get Dolby Digital from the tuner.

I guess it COULD be comcast not sending the signal through unmoleseted, but it seems it would be a lot more difficult for them to change it than leave it alone.

Is it a setting on the TV I have it set for Virtual dolby in the sound options...should it be plain old stereo ?

I wanna watch my CSI in 5.1!


Edit:spelling

Just so I've got this right, your using a cable card to get the HD signal from Comcast right? There are only 3 ways to get an HD signal. One is using an over-the-air antenna (like rabbit ears or a HD antenna), the second is using a cable card to get the HD signals through comcast cable (the cablecard decodes the HD signal), and the third is having a comcast (or other cable provider) set top box that decodes the cable signal, then outputs it to the TV via component input (can't do it through the cable)

If your doing over the air, then it shouldn't have anything to do with comcast and everything to do with the network your trying to watch since comcast doesn't broadcast over the air, the network does. I tried watching CSI last night in HD, but for some reason I can't get the HD signal for that channel. I'm only using standard rabbit ears as an antenna though, I'm sure I could get it if I used a better antenna. I do get a couple of HD stations with the rabbit ears, surprisingly. I haven't checked the audio quality yet though.

An update on my mounting situation:

After 4 attempts and contacting Peerless, yesterday I finally said "I just want to know if I can drill out the existing holes in the adapter plate to make it fit"

The response was:

"Yes, it will work if you drill out the holes and it will support the TV. However, it will void your warranty if you do it. If you want to send us your TV, we'll pay for the freight, we will make you a mount specifically for that model Philips."

I then went into "So I can drill out the holes on my $100 piece of steel and void my warranty, or I can send in my $2500 TV for 2 weeks, possibly have it damaged, so that I can get a new $100 piece of steel with a warranty. I think I'll void the warranty and take the risk that the steel doesn't need a warranty"

So I'm voiding my adapter plates warranty, but I'm not voiding the wall mounts warranty because that part isn't being altered.

I guess the risk is that the plate could bend over time with the weight. I'll keep an eye on it over the months and if it starts to bend I'll take it off and have a local steelsmith cut me a new plate for a lot less money.

Just thought others might find this helpful. Since they haven't gotten anyone to send in their TV yet, I don't think they are going to have a suitable adapter plate anytime soon. I should have mine drilled and mounted in the next day or two and I'll be sure to post pictures of it.

Just so I've got this right, your using a cable card to get the HD signal from Comcast right? There are only 3 ways to get an HD signal. One is using an over-the-air antenna (like rabbit ears or a HD antenna), the second is using a cable card to get the HD signals through comcast cable (the cablecard decodes the HD signal), and the third is having a comcast (or other cable provider) set top box that decodes the cable signal, then outputs it to the TV via component input (can't do it through the cable)

If your doing over the air, then it shouldn't have anything to do with comcast and everything to do with the network your trying to watch since comcast doesn't broadcast over the air, the network does. I tried watching CSI last night in HD, but for some reason I can't get the HD signal for that channel. I'm only using standard rabbit ears as an antenna though, I'm sure I could get it if I used a better antenna. I do get a couple of HD stations with the rabbit ears, surprisingly. I haven't checked the audio quality yet though.

Actually, None of the above...

I'm using the QAM tuner in the philips to pick up the unencrypted HD channels through my cable provider (comcast). By FCC law they're supposed to feed through the local channels through untouched on every service tier.

However, last night there was some horrible noise on the local WB HD feed (not on SD) and so I called comcast to report the problem. Unfortunately they deny it's even possible for me to get my local Channels in HD without a set top box (i didn't want to confuse them by mentioning Cable Cards!)...

I explained I have a Digital Cable Ready HDTV with a QAM tuner that lets me pick up HD over cable without a set top box. Comcast said that was impossible.. They asked what channel I was watching on and got VERY confused when I said 81.7. They were like.. but HD is on Channel 650 and up.. I tried to explain about how they set arbitrary channel numbers but my TV picks it up on a frequency based number and I lost them completely..

The Supervisor said there is NO WAY whatsoever I could be getting HDTV without the Set top box... sigh...


looks like I'll have to get the STB eventually just to get DD and ESPN HD... grr

Oh and they charge more for the STB if you're on analog than if you're on digital.. and you don't get ESPN HD or Discovery HD either... I Smell a Scam.


Oh Well, looks like i'll need to add ANOTHER remote to the collection...

I've called Philips to see what they have to say about mounting this TV and i found out that Omnimount is the company they work with. after going to their site and looking at the mounting PDF file it seams that this tv can be mounted with the Omnimount UCL with has both the mount and adapter. I plan on getting this soon to mount my 42PF9730A the LCD equlivent. I post when it's set up. the only down side is that it come 5" off the wall.

Oh and they charge more for the STB if you're on analog than if you're on digital.. and you don't get ESPN HD or Discovery HD either... I Smell a Scam.


Oh Well, looks like i'll need to add ANOTHER remote to the collection...



Are you able to get a cablecard to get the HD signals instead? I've heard a lot of people going that route because you don't have another receiver and remote, and they only cost $5 or so a month.

Are you able to get a cablecard to get the HD signals instead? I've heard a lot of people going that route because you don't have another receiver and remote, and they only cost $5 or so a month.

With a Cablecard (of which I have heard many many horror stories) there's no access to on demand programming and I'm still reliant on the TV to provide a Dolby Digital Signal, which is one of the Issues I Have, - I just Cant seem to get A 5.1 signal from HD cable.

I've called Philips to see what they have to say about mounting this TV and i found out that Omnimount is the company they work with. after going to their site and looking at the mounting PDF file it seams that this tv can be mounted with the Omnimount UCL with has both the mount and adapter. I plan on getting this soon to mount my 42PF9730A the LCD equlivent. I post when it's set up. the only down side is that it come 5" off the wall.

Looks like this mount has an arm?

I've been looking at the Sanus VMPL2S on line. It specifically states that it is compatible with this TV and the LCD version, though that may not be true. It also is supposed mount the TV very close to the wall (only about 1 1/4" away from wall). Does anybody have any experience with this mount? Any thoughts?

i have the 42PF9730/37A LCD TV and i can pick up HD channels also without having a cable card or a set top box... i have all the local channels, espn2, espn1, klru-hd and a few others... very strange because some of the hd channels match up to time warners channels and otheres don't

Hey guys, we just won a Philips 42" HDTV from ESPN in the 100 yard blitz promotion on Mike and Mike in the Morning. Don't know what model it is (any other winners here that do know?). My biggest problem now is what to do about the DirectTV package. We currently have Comcast digital cable (non-HD) and Comcast internet service. It will be a real hassle to change internet providers (DSL?) and Comcast charges an extra $15 for the internet if you are not a TV subscriber (nice, huh?) plus I own the cable modem and don't want it to become useless hardware. Any one want to compare DirectTV and Cable on this set and give me some idea which direction I should go?

Jes1955,

That Sanus VMPL2S cant fit the 9630a the unit is only 32 inches wide. The plasma would be literally hanging at the ends. The holes on the Philips are spaced 32 inches apart horizontally and 16 inches apart vertically. I think the VMPL3S is the one. That mount also allows you to catch 3 studs.

I explained I have a Digital Cable Ready HDTV with a QAM tuner that lets me pick up HD over cable without a set top box. Comcast said that was impossible.. They asked what channel I was watching on and got VERY confused when I said 81.7. They were like.. but HD is on Channel 650 and up.. I tried to explain about how they set arbitrary channel numbers but my TV picks it up on a frequency based number and I lost them completely..

The Supervisor said there is NO WAY whatsoever I could be getting HDTV without the Set top box... sigh...


For the record, I live in Southern Maryland, and all I have is basic cable (from MetroCast, formerly GMP), with the coax going right from the wall into the TV. I get the Baltimore ABC, NBC, and CBS, as well as the D.C. CBS in HD, assigned to channel numbers like 83.2, 84.1 and 84.4. Some times they're pretty noisy, but hey, free HD!

After months of research, I have decided to purhcase a 42PF9630A. I can get it with 3 yr warranty at Circuit City for $3,100. Anybody know where I can get a better deal (not just cost, but quality of warranty/service)?

After months of research, I have decided to purhcase a 42PF9630A. I can get it with 3 yr warranty at Circuit City for $3,100. Anybody know where I can get a better deal (not just cost, but quality of warranty/service)?


I got it without the warranty for $2600 with a $270 circuit city gift card. Deals pop up from time to time. For instance if you call the CC phone number and ask about a 10% gift card they might give it to you. Mention it in store and they will match it (IF the 800 number is offering it) and from time to time I get $100 off coupons in my email from CC. Also, there are other warranties available on the internet (a few pages back list a couple) and CC is also very flexible on their warranty pricing, you can usually talk them down a couple hundred bucks. Hope this info helps!

BTW, here are some pictures of mine mounted into the corner of my family room. I haven't hidden the cables yet. I'm going to have an electrician reroute the power cable, and I'm going to run the coax cables inside the wall to hide them. There's a shelf behind the set that holds the equipment. They're a little bright because I had the flash on.

http://s87913692.onlinehome.us/Philips_1.JPG

http://s87913692.onlinehome.us/Philips_2.JPG

http://s87913692.onlinehome.us/Philips_3.JPG

I bought a 42PF9630A from CC and have had to order a new one. One week after having it home, I noticed a black line about 4 inches up from the bottom of the screen extending all the way across. I called CC and they've order me a new one. I'm supposed to get it tomorrow. Has anyone else had this problem?

I also have a few more questions.

I currently have Dishnetwork and have the signal coming to the TV through Coax. The picture quality is decent, but not as good as I thought. I'm having an electrician come and install the electical and was going to have them route cables so that I can hook up the dish receiver via s-video. Will this make much of a difference? I'm currently sitting about 11 feet away from the TV and will be installing it on a wall over our fireplace. Once installed the distance will be about 14'. I've thought about going up to a 50". What do you think?

Overall I'm pleased with the TV so far. The PQ is a little less than desirable, but I may be sitting too close and don't have it hooked up correctly yet. I plan to watch over-the-air HD with this through my dish reciever. The ambilight is really cool. I think it enhances the viewing experience.

Hopefully this next TV will not give the same problem because it will be installed soon!

Serus,

Nice pics of your panel. Thanks for posting.

I contacted omnimount today and asked what wall mount they recommend for the 9630a 42 inch panel. They stated the U3 tiltmount was the only one that would fit properly and "YES" the extenders are in the box and donot have to be special ordered. These extenders increase the length of the mounting bar allowing larger panels to be mounted. The wall plate is approx 32 inches and mounts the panel 2 5/8 inches off the wall. This confirms what I have seen at local CC's .

Jheyen,

If your picture is less then stellar I would suspect your feeds and or cables. I have cable so I cant speak about dishnetwork but I can tell you the picture quality I am getting is nothing short of outstanding. Add to that the movies and shows broadcast in 5.1 sound and the addition of Ambilight and your in for some outstanding viewing pleasure.

...I currently have Dishnetwork and have the signal coming to the TV through Coax. The picture quality is decent, but not as good as I thought. I'm having an electrician come and install the electical and was going to have them route cables so that I can hook up the dish receiver via s-video. Will this make much of a difference? I'm currently sitting about 11 feet away from the TV and will be installing it on a wall over our fireplace. Once installed the distance will be about 14'. I've thought about going up to a 50". What do you think?...
I think you'll find S-video an improvement over coax. (HDMI would be better, if your Dish receiver has one.) For me S-video was better than composite (I never tried coax, but it's usually the poorest type of connection) and HDMI was far better than either.

I have DirecTV and have learned that your receiver can have a big impact on PQ. When I upgraded to an HD TiVo, my D* PQ improved dramatically from my older receiver, even on SD. You are likely to notice channel to channel and even program to program differences in any case.

If cost is not a consideration, I'd recommend a 50" set at 14'. Heck, I'd use one at 9' if I could afford it! ;) Check this site (http://www.myhometheater.homestead.com/viewingdistancecalculator.html) out.

I contacted omnimount today and asked what wall mount they recommend for the 9630a 42 inch panel. They stated the U3 tiltmount was the only one that would fit properly and "YES" the extenders are in the box and donot have to be special ordered. These extenders increase the length of the mounting bar allowing larger panels to be mounted. The wall plate is approx 32 inches and mounts the panel 2 5/8 inches off the wall. This confirms what I have seen at local CC's .
The U3 Tiltmount might come with the extenders. I bought the U3 Fixed mount and that one did NOT come with the extenders. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow.

I bought a 42PF9630A from CC and have had to order a new one. One week after having it home, I noticed a black line about 4 inches up from the bottom of the screen extending all the way across. I called CC and they've order me a new one. I'm supposed to get it tomorrow. Has anyone else had this problem?

I also have a few more questions.

I currently have Dishnetwork and have the signal coming to the TV through Coax. The picture quality is decent, but not as good as I thought. I'm having an electrician come and install the electical and was going to have them route cables so that I can hook up the dish receiver via s-video. Will this make much of a difference? I'm currently sitting about 11 feet away from the TV and will be installing it on a wall over our fireplace. Once installed the distance will be about 14'. I've thought about going up to a 50". What do you think?

Overall I'm pleased with the TV so far. The PQ is a little less than desirable, but I may be sitting too close and don't have it hooked up correctly yet. I plan to watch over-the-air HD with this through my dish reciever. The ambilight is really cool. I think it enhances the viewing experience.

Hopefully this next TV will not give the same problem because it will be installed soon!


No the same problem, but a rather obnoxious buzzing on my first set..

but, all credit to CC they came and replaced it with no questions asked.

Digital Cable with HD box arrives saturday... looking forward to watching some socccer from back home!

Circuit City 10% gift card -
Can somebody please email the CC email to me at ajduran@gmail? A customer service rep at Circuit City insists that I send a picture of the coupon for her to send one to me. Many thanks! Alex

I just found this playing in the service menu - USE AT YOUR OWN RISK.

This 'hack' gives you the ability to have seperate ambilight colors one eash side of the screen. I think this is the Ambilight 2 feature?

Anway, to do this:

1) Access the service menu - type 062596 Info on your remote
2) Red button to confirm
3) Navigate to Video Repro then Ambient Light menu
4) Select Stereo from this menu
5) Back out to the main menu and select store/store, hit ok - It should confirm with 'Store completed'
6) Exit the service menu
7) Power off and back on the TV
8) Now under your standard menu you will have additional ambilight settings to control how the right and left lights work (TV\Ambilight)
9) Set Seperation to Maximum and balance to 0 for maximum 'stereo' effect

Note: I have updated the new firmware dated 8-20-2005 version, not sure if this matters or not.

Enjoy!
-Ed

Jes1955,

That Sanus VMPL2S cant fit the 9630a the unit is only 32 inches wide. The plasma would be literally hanging at the ends. The holes on the Philips are spaced 32 inches apart horizontally and 16 inches apart vertically. I think the VMPL3S is the one. That mount also allows you to catch 3 studs.

Thanks. Goes to show you can't always trust what the manufacturer says.

I sent an E-mail to a company named Ergotron. Based on the info at their web site, they are apparently a large manufacturer of various types of mounts for televisions and monitors for commercial use, but it looks like they sell to consumers as well. They have a mount called the Ergotron WM that looks like it may be compatible with this television. Better yet, it looks like this mount has an MSRP of $99. Being that the Philips is VESA 800 X 400, I can't find many mounts that fit this size. Maybe this is a glimmer of hope. This model is a fixed mount close to the wall. They also have a tilt version of this mount (the Ergotron TM). I will keep you posted as to what they say.

http://www.ergotron.com/3_products/flat_panel/WM/default.asp

Bhang,

Your right the fixed mount doesnt come with the extenders, when I spoke with Omnimount they confirmed that, only the U3 tiltmount does.

Edh72,

Great find on the stereo ambilight. What differences have you noticed since you updated to stereo ambilight via the service menu? I havent used the service menu yet so would you tell me how as you indicate in step 5 do you back out of the service menu and select store? Are there on screen prompts? Also how do you exit the service menu? Sorry the questions might seem basic but I want to be sure what I am doing before I try it. Thanks :)

Circuit City 10% gift card -
Can somebody please email the CC email to me at ajduran@gmail? A customer service rep at Circuit City insists that I send a picture of the coupon for her to send one to me. Many thanks! Alex


I never got an email about a 10% gift card. I just called up and said "I heard something about a 10% gift card with this set as well?" and she said "Yes, there is a 10% gift card being offered on this set." So it might have been a limited time thing.


Yesterday I saw something on another site saying that if you go to CC's website through the MSN site, that there is a 10% gift card being offered, but it expires today. You have to go to msn.com and look for the "10% Back at Circuit City" line. It's on the right by the target logo. You can't link to it because it won't work unless you go through the MSN website. Also, this one is via a mail in rebate.

Hope this helps!


Edh72,

Thanks for the info on the stereo ambilight. How did you find out about this? I'm wondering if there are any sites out there dedicated to hacking this TV because you can upgrade the firmware. Also, have you experienced any adverse effects since you enabled it?

I just set mine up. Pretty cool! I thought that the only difference between this and the newer models would be the stereo ambilight. I guess we can get it too!

Does anyone know what the other settings in the service menu do? Things like the backlight scanning and dimming? Also there was something about an internal subwoofer in the audio section, as well as some aditional audio settings.

Edh72,

Great find on the stereo ambilight. What differences have you noticed since you updated to stereo ambilight via the service menu? I havent used the service menu yet so would you tell me how as you indicate in step 5 do you back out of the service menu and select store? Are there on screen prompts? Also how do you exit the service menu? Sorry the questions might seem basic but I want to be sure what I am doing before I try it. Thanks :)

Casey,

The new ambilight in stereo is working great, I can realyy tell a big change.

The service menu is just like the regular menus, you use the left side of the remote wheel to back out to the previous menu. Once you are in the main service menu, you'll see the store option.

Edh72,

Thanks for the info on the stereo ambilight. How did you find out about this? I'm wondering if there are any sites out there dedicated to hacking this TV because you can upgrade the firmware. Also, have you experienced any adverse effects since you enabled it?

I just set mine up. Pretty cool! I thought that the only difference between this and the newer models would be the stereo ambilight. I guess we can get it too!

Does anyone know what the other settings in the service menu do? Things like the backlight scanning and dimming? Also there was something about an internal subwoofer in the audio section, as well as some aditional audio settings.

I found this just by looking around in the service menu.

I have not seen any adverse effects. I would reccomend NOT playing with any other settings, or if you do write down ALL of the settings first :-)

Aren't you guy worried that if something goes wong with the TV the warranty is now invalid if you go into the service menu?

Just wondering if they'd refuse service if it's been changed?

New firmware available for download on Philips site. Software upgrade is dated 9/28/05.

New firmware available for download on Philips site. Software upgrade is dated 9/28/05.

9/28/05 is when they put it on the web, the actual firmware date is different. (8/20)

I thought I did something wrong at first, but I guess it just takes several weeks to get it on the web.

Aren't you guy worried that if something goes wong with the TV the warranty is now invalid if you go into the service menu?

Just wondering if they'd refuse service if it's been changed?




No, Im not worried. They'd have to prove something changed casued an issue, and any company that half cares about customer service will not go there. (IMO)

EDH-

Under the service menu do you have a "Defective Module" option listed and if so is something supposed to be listed on the right side?

Just checked Philips site it is a new version, check the software history file youll see what is does. I have kept up with all the updates so far and this one is unique. The firmware update with a generation date of 8/20/05 is BX23U-1.07.0.00841 which is what I was running.Until I installed this new version. The New firmware has a generation date of 9/28/05 and is BX32U.1.08.0.00841.

Jarod_S.

To test you need to go into the CSM menu not the Service menu. The CSM is the customer service menu which Philips usually walks you thru if you have a technical issue while your on the phone with them. It indicates any errors in a two digit code up to ten last errors. This is helpful as it gives them an idea of where the problem is. If you have a copy of the Service manual it will tell you how to get in there otherwise you might want to contact Philips directly.

A funny Story,

The other nite we were waiting for company to arrive to show some digital pictures using the slide show feature of the Philips panel. I decided to see what was on a certain memory stick and without looking attempted to stick the the memory into the panel. Well,,,,,,,long story short I stuck it in the wrong slot and it fell inside the Panel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So what to do? I had to disassemble the back of the panel, remove the amblilght, open the USB memory stick module to get the stick out and reassemble. Took about 50 minutes but all went well. If anyone needs to do this please note that the screws are what is called torque screws they look like allens but are not.

EDH-

Under the service menu do you have a "Defective Module" option listed and if so is something supposed to be listed on the right side?

Jarod,

I do see that option, and do not (and hope to never) have anything listed there. This is where component error codes would be displayed if there is anything wrong with the TV.

If you don't see anything there, it is a good thing :-)

A funny Story,

The other nite we were waiting for company to arrive to show some digital pictures using the slide show feature of the Philips panel. I decided to see what was on a certain memory stick and without looking attempted to stick the the memory into the panel. Well,,,,,,,long story short I stuck it in the wrong slot and it fell inside the Panel!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So what to do? I had to disassemble the back of the panel, remove the amblilght, open the USB memory stick module to get the stick out and reassemble. Took about 50 minutes but all went well. If anyone needs to do this please note that the screws are what is called torque screws they look like allens but are not.


Ouch! Thanks to you, I will be VERY careful now

Thanks for your response guys.

I called Philips today and from the sounds of it I can have a tech come look at my tv while in the 1st year of the warranty.

I have an error message in the service menu, but nothing is wrong w/ my tv that I can see.

It may be related to when I attempted to hook up my Sony dream system via component. The Sony was not compatible w/ the Phillips so it caused some flickering of the picture.

I found a rather informative site w/ a rundown of the Phillips service menu. It states that the "cause" of the error (if you have one listed) is listed on the right hand side of DEFECTIVE MODULE in the service menu. It does not really mean you need something fixed though. But if you have "2" items listed on the right of DEFECTIVE MODULE your tv needs looked at.
Because most likely one of the 2 listed items will be "unknown."

how do you get into the customer service menu?

Update on the Ergotron wall mount. Unfortunately, this was a dead end. Their wall mount only supports widths up to 750mm. The Philips is 800mm. I wish Philips would not have made this TV so hard to wall mount.

Casey Jones have you mounted yours yet with your Omnimount?

Edh72,

I went into the service menu and now have ambilight 2, just wanted to say thanks to you again, we really like it. I noticed that there is an entry for the electronic tv guide in the SM, have you tried that yet?

Casey

Mlandau,

HI, if you have a copy of the service manual there are instructions there on how to get into the CSM.

Jes1955,

I will be picking up the U3 tiltmount over the weekend. So I will let everyone know how it works out when I mount it.

casey jones:
I do have a copy of the service manual, I think that was courtesy you. I will check it out.

Mlandau,
Good to hear. Let me know how things are going.

I've looked through the entire manual and still dont know how to access the service menu. Can anyone here tell me how to do it?

I've looked through the entire manual and still dont know how to access the service menu. Can anyone here tell me how to do it?

It's on page 16 of this thread:

1) Access the service menu - type 062596 Info on your remote


Thats all I did exactly..

062596 then the info button

I had to do it twice cause the first time the channel changed.

that worked...thanks man

Actually, None of the above...

I'm using the QAM tuner in the philips to pick up the unencrypted HD channels through my cable provider (comcast). By FCC law they're supposed to feed through the local channels through untouched on every service tier.

However, last night there was some horrible noise on the local WB HD feed (not on SD) and so I called comcast to report the problem. Unfortunately they deny it's even possible for me to get my local Channels in HD without a set top box (i didn't want to confuse them by mentioning Cable Cards!)...

I explained I have a Digital Cable Ready HDTV with a QAM tuner that lets me pick up HD over cable without a set top box. Comcast said that was impossible.. They asked what channel I was watching on and got VERY confused when I said 81.7. They were like.. but HD is on Channel 650 and up.. I tried to explain about how they set arbitrary channel numbers but my TV picks it up on a frequency based number and I lost them completely..

The Supervisor said there is NO WAY whatsoever I could be getting HDTV without the Set top box... sigh...


looks like I'll have to get the STB eventually just to get DD and ESPN HD... grr

Oh and they charge more for the STB if you're on analog than if you're on digital.. and you don't get ESPN HD or Discovery HD either... I Smell a Scam.


Oh Well, looks like i'll need to add ANOTHER remote to the collection...

Comcast in Seattle is just as clueless as they also claim you can't get HD channels without thier set top box. (I have a 32PF7320A which receives the local HD channels on Comcast basic cable just fine)
I told them to check their own website, it clearly shows 6 HD local channels along with and additional 3 digital channels available with the basic cable package!!! They must be skipping everything but the most basic employee training :rolleyes:

Colorburst,

I find most cable company customer service reps to be that way. They comment with a scripted company response.

Colorburst, how do you do tune the hd channels? Where does comcast put those channels on your service? In Maryland, they are all in the 200+ part of the channel lineup. I don't know of any TV that will tune channels that high on its own. I just won a 42PF9630a/37 from ESPN, so I am certainly interested in how you can do this without a cable box to tune in the high channel numbers where cable seems to put HD channels.

Oh nevermind, just saw your earlier post. Didn't know how a QAM tuner works yet, so wasn't aware you could tune in frequencies instead of arbitrary channel numbers. Very cool. I'll be trying that when I get my TV, though I am also getting HD-DVR service...

I'm hoping to buy my TV within the next month or two (though I will be buying the LCD version 42PF9730a). I am trying to map out the best approach to cabling. I am planning to buy a DVD player with HDMI output (Panasonic DVD-S77S). I also hope to buy a home theater sound system (possibly Panasonic SC HT 15). This is my tentative wiring scheme. I’d appreciate any feedback on any aspect of my plans since this is my first experience with anything other than a basic tube TV.

1. Coax from cable box to TV.
2. HDMI cable from DVD player to TV
3. Coax from Digital Audio Out (TV) to Digital Audio In (Home Theater System)

One concern I have is that in the TV's documentation mentions something about the Digital Audio Out possibly being muted if the HDMI source is copyrighted material. Anybody know about this? If I watch a DVD will the digital audio out be muted? Would it be better to hook the home theater system directly to the DVD player? Drawback would be that I’d only be able to use the home theater system for DVD’s. Again, any thoughts or criticisms are appreciated.

I just want to start off by saying you guys have offered a wealth of information that i appreciate greatly :)

But back on topic, I wanted to know if anybody has evaluated this set primarily for video game use. And if so, have you noticed anything like video lag, controller lag, image trails, problems displaying picture at different resolutions (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i)

Any information you can offer would be helpful because I am thinking of purchasing this set primarily for use with my Xbox 360 and also for my DVD library.

Also if anybody is interested and wants to know price, I have found this set price under $2200 on the net during my research

Thanks in advance

Edh72,

I went into the service menu and now have ambilight 2, just wanted to say thanks to you again, we really like it. I noticed that there is an entry for the electronic tv guide in the SM, have you tried that yet?

Casey


Casey,

Glad to provide some value (most of the topics here are waaaayy ove my head :-) )

I did turn on the TV Guide, but it never got any data from my cable company, so I turned it back off. I liked the guide in my media center pc better.

I just want to start off by saying you guys have offered a wealth of information that i appreciate greatly :)

But back on topic, I wanted to know if anybody has evaluated this set primarily for video game use. And if so, have you noticed anything like video lag, controller lag, image trails, problems displaying picture at different resolutions (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i)

Any information you can offer would be helpful because I am thinking of purchasing this set primarily for use with my Xbox 360 and also for my DVD library.

Also if anybody is interested and wants to know price, I have found this set price under $2200 on the net during my research

Thanks in advance


I haven't noticed any problems with my xbox, but I haven't played it very long. Something to keep in mind with plasmas and gaming systems is to watch out for burn in. Playing a game for a prolonged period of time can burn the image on the screen. Things like health and radars and what not will be left on the screen. It is especially present during the first few hundred hours of the TV's use.

Just something to be aware of..
I would probably go LCD if it was going to be used primarily for gaming. And yes, you'll want to know if there is any "ghosting" with the LCD screen. Look at it's response time. typically anything around 15ms is good.

guys, what is the difference between this and the costco model? Ambilight? would it be worth it to get it at costco or skip it and get it from another retailer.. every time i think i have my mind made up - I FAIL>

My 42"LCD is going to be mounted this weekend and I have decided
to not invest in a wall mount first of all because most mounts are smaller
than 800mm (31.4") and second of all, all you really need is three studs,
attach two metal L shaped bars, and attach two L shaped bars or brackets
to the back of the tv, all you need is some patience, good measuring skills,
and then connect the bars (brackets) with bolt and wing nut, I need straight
flush mount my set is 80LBS. This should work, and safe some money to
invest in a dvd-hdmi, or save for a dish dvr942. I expect to spend less than
thirty $.

revmh

Jes 1955,

What model STB will you be using? I wouldnt connect the box to your panel via the coax. Depending on the model of your STB you have better choices, Component Video, DVI or HDMI. Most set top boxes have a digital audio output that can be connected to your Home theater directly. Make sure you go into the set up menu of the STB and activate dolby digital in the sound menu. In my opinion I would get an inexpensive DVD player right now if I was in the market, it seems that the HD DVD players will be available early in the new year. And those should look great on the Philips.