Well everything has been going great with my Comcast Cable Card for the past week. Nothing has gone wrong with the PQ.

One thing I have noticed is that the PQ is amazingly better than my old standard comcast box.

The only issue I am having is getting the unlocked On-Screen TV Guide to work properly. The first time I turned it on, it gave me the choice of which card I was running so I chose the card and the rest of the settings and waited the 24 hrs. The next day I checked and about 80-90% of the listings were there. The others had "No Listing". Then a day or two later I checked out the guide again but this time everything, and I mean everything had "No Listing".

So I gave it a couple more days since I thought that maybe this should be happening but nope, all listings still said "No Listing". So I went ahead and disabled the guide for a couple days and then I re-enabled it and filled in all the settings. Waited the 24 hrs and saw most of the listings come up successfully. Then the next day I checked and they were all once again gone... "No Listing".

Anyone else with or w/ out a cc having an issue like this with the guide? Its a great feature when it works and I would really like it to.

All help is appreciated, thanks.

Quick question. I saw that the box measuresments for this unit is 52x36x13. I have a Ford Explorer and I could just bearly fit a Sony A10 into the back, and it was 33.5 inches in height. Is it ok to lay the plasma down in the back or is that a no,no like the RP units?

3. A factory renewed 42PF9630A. What is the warranty coverage for factory renewed?

TIA!

I belive it is 90 days, but you can call them - check the contact info there.

Is it ok to lay the plasma down in the back or is that a no,no like the RP units?

Yes, you're not supposed to lay it down.

It is connected to a surge protector. I even tried a different surge protector. I am actually currently having this problem and before I was able to fix it by unplugging for a minute and plugging it back in. Now I have had it unplugged for 10 minutes and it still flashes. I called Philips support and the gave me a service company to call on Monday. Although I asked the Philips guy what causes this and he does not even know, he just said to call and have it serviced. He said he thinks it is the power supply.


Edit: I just plugged the tv directly into the wall and it reset just fine. I then plugged it back into the surge protector and it is working now. Could the surge protector actually be the problem? I have a PureAV Home Theater Power Conditioner coming tomorrow that I will use instead of the current surge protector.

It just started working again for you?

I bought a 32" Philips LCD ( 32PF7320A/37 ) back in september and came downstairs after a week or two to find the red light flashing.

It's plugged into a surge protector. I pulled the plug, waited a bit and plugged it back in.

The green light came on, but an image never came on the screen. Every 15-20 seconds or so there's a "click" like the power supply kicking in, but nothing happens.

I tried plugging it in directly, unplugging all the cables, etc, and nothing helps. It just seems fried, and ended up taking it back to Costco and exchanging it since Philips support couldn't get someone there to service it.

Now, a month or two in, the SAME THING has happened AGAIN with the new TV! :(

I'm curious to have Philips come out and look at it, but no one can come until 12/8 and I don't want to be without it until then, so I'm probably going to take it back unless there's an astonishingly obvious solution to the problem I've missed.

But the question is, should I buy another one of these? Is it extra sensitive to ESD? Maybe they've got a fault in the design of the power supply? I don't have it located anyplace unusual... just in the basement on a buffet table.

Anyone with any ideas on what's happened?

Hi everybody
I have a 50 pf9630A and have the following setup and problem:

HDMI connection between SAT Directv hr10-250 and TV; Problem: The picture keeps switchinh between 4:3 and full screen; It seems the only 2 options are Automatic and Widescreen; the others are grey out (eg 16:9 etc.) It happens every 10-15 seconds

Thanks for your help

It just started working again for you?

I bought a 32" Philips LCD ( 32PF7320A/37 ) back in september and came downstairs after a week or two to find the red light flashing.

It's plugged into a surge protector. I pulled the plug, waited a bit and plugged it back in.

The green light came on, but an image never came on the screen. Every 15-20 seconds or so there's a "click" like the power supply kicking in, but nothing happens.

I tried plugging it in directly, unplugging all the cables, etc, and nothing helps. It just seems fried, and ended up taking it back to Costco and exchanging it since Philips support couldn't get someone there to service it.

Now, a month or two in, the SAME THING has happened AGAIN with the new TV! :(

I'm curious to have Philips come out and look at it, but no one can come until 12/8 and I don't want to be without it until then, so I'm probably going to take it back unless there's an astonishingly obvious solution to the problem I've missed.

But the question is, should I buy another one of these? Is it extra sensitive to ESD? Maybe they've got a fault in the design of the power supply? I don't have it located anyplace unusual... just in the basement on a buffet table.

Anyone with any ideas on what's happened?


Well i is happening again today and I have not been able to get it to work again. I am calling circuit city for repair since I bought their protection plan, if they cant fix it, they will replace it. I even tried the new PureAV power bar that I got and it does not make a difference. I would just take it back, but we got it open box at circuit city, so I would have to pay the difference on a new one. I will let you know once I have it serviced what they say.

Edit: Service is scheduled for 11/29. I will let everyone know. BTW: after anout 30 minutes unplugged, tv is working again.

Here is a quick question for anyone that owns this plasma. Manual says when you push the power button that the tv goes into standby mode. Does that mean that the green light should go off and the red light should be on? On my Philips, if I push power the green light goes out, but there is now red standby light.

I also, noticed in the literature that it says you can turn on Ambilight when the tv is in Standby mode but I have not been able to do that. Is there a trick to it, besides just turning the power off and pushing the Ambilight button on the remote?

I am almost thinking that my plasma has an issue since I don't really think it is going into standby but turning off completely. I look forward to hear from other users.

thanks

Here is a quick question for anyone that owns this plasma. Manual says when you push the power button that the tv goes into standby mode. Does that mean that the green light should go off and the red light should be on? On my Philips, if I push power the green light goes out, but there is now red standby light.

I also, noticed in the literature that it says you can turn on Ambilight when the tv is in Standby mode but I have not been able to do that. Is there a trick to it, besides just turning the power off and pushing the Ambilight button on the remote?

I am almost thinking that my plasma has an issue since I don't really think it is going into standby but turning off completely. I look forward to hear from other users.

thanks

According to the online troubleshooter the red light inidicates your plasma is in standby mode. Try this(also from the online troubleshooter):

Other:

Problem:Television remains in standby after mains power switched on.

Cause:Television remains in standby after mains power switched on.

Solution: When you put the TV in standby before switching off with mains power switch, it is normal that the television starts up in standby again.
To switch the television on push the 'CH+' or 'P' button on the remote control.
The display always starts in standby mode when switched on with the mains switch when a TV is connected.

Red light on:

Other
Problem: Television, explanation (power) lights.
Cause: Red light is on.
Solution :Red light is on when television is in standby mode.

According to the online troubleshooter the red light inidicates your plasma is in standby mode. Try this(also from the online troubleshooter):

Other:

Problem:Television remains in standby after mains power switched on.

Cause:Television remains in standby after mains power switched on.

Solution: When you put the TV in standby before switching off with mains power switch, it is normal that the television starts up in standby again.
To switch the television on push the 'CH+' or 'P' button on the remote control.
The display always starts in standby mode when switched on with the mains switch when a TV is connected.

Red light on:

Other
Problem: Television, explanation (power) lights.
Cause: Red light is on.
Solution :Red light is on when television is in standby mode.


Casey: Only problem with that senario is that I believe standby means solid red light. My problem is blinking red light. In the troubleshooter for that, it says ESD problem and to reset.

Here is a quick question for anyone that owns this plasma. Manual says when you push the power button that the tv goes into standby mode. Does that mean that the green light should go off and the red light should be on? On my Philips, if I push power the green light goes out, but there is now red standby light.

I also, noticed in the literature that it says you can turn on Ambilight when the tv is in Standby mode but I have not been able to do that. Is there a trick to it, besides just turning the power off and pushing the Ambilight button on the remote?

I am almost thinking that my plasma has an issue since I don't really think it is going into standby but turning off completely. I look forward to hear from other users.

thanks
Thought your post said you had a red standby light.

Thought your post said you had a red standby light.


Sorry about that. It should have read "but there is NO red standby light" I need to watch my spelling.

When I push the power button, the green light goes out but I do not get a solid red standby light.

thanks

Sorry about that. It should have read "but there is NO red standby light" I need to watch my spelling.

When I push the power button, the green light goes out but I do not get a solid red standby light.

thanks

I use the remote to turn it on (green light is on) and off (no light at all) and I thought it is in stabd-by mode. But I don't have any red or other light at all when I turn it off with the remote. I thought it is normal. (The same is with my other Philips RPTV.)

It just started working again for you?


The green light came on, but an image never came on the screen. Every 15-20 seconds or so there's a "click" like the power supply kicking in, but nothing happens.




I had something like that but with no red light - my wife saw it three times (I did not). My theory is that my PF60 cuts the power off for a short time when it ``thinks'' that it is ``off the charts" (as it supposed to do) and then turns it on (in which case the green light appears and then disappears). My wife also noticed that simultaneously the cable box loses its image on display (time), which then re-appears - again this happens when you plug it in.

My other RPTV also once turned itself off when I was watching it. It is conencted to a similar PF60. I did not notice anything on the box's display, but I was sort of in shock for a few seconds, trying to understand why it is dark all of a sudden?

I red about something like that in some post that it happened to someone when the TV was turned off in the HD mode (I don't know what this mean).

Anyway, now when I turn it off I am trying to do it not on HD channel. I also put TV on delay in my surge protector and the box on ``always on'' to see if it changes anything.

I have a "philosophical" comment:

It looks that we live in the era when a TV is not a TV as it was not quite a long a go. Now it is more like a sophisticated computer which can have all kinds of bugs. The question is: Are they unavoidable? Probably, as we observe it with our PCs which are in our households for a much longer period of time.

Philips did a great thing when this plasma was designed with the option to ungrade its software. On the other hand, it is rather an idea, of course. as for practical purposes the owner needs some practical results. (I could not get any with my Motorala/Adelphia cable card).

Good day,

First off, let me say that this board and specifically this thread has really been a great help and you are all providing a great service to all owners and I thank you. I have had my 9630a for a few weeks and I would still be looking for a wall mount if if were not from the feedback I got here; I ended up getting a Peerless and having it modded by a local machine shop to make it fit the set.

Anyway, I am having an issue and I am curious as to whether anyone else has seen it or might have a solution. I had originally hooked up to my STB using s-video (until cables came in and modded bracket was ready). In this configuration I had zero problems. Then when I went to wall mount, I changed over to DVI-HDMI and digital audio from the same STB. Since making this change, I have started seeing a problem. When I first power on the set, everything works fine for about 3-5 minutes. Then (at some unspecified time but usually not more than 5 min after powering on), the set goes to snow. It maintains audio, but there is no video other than snow. It has done this every time I have turned it on since switching to the HDMI. If I change inputs and change back there is still snow. If I power the TV off and back on, it restores the picture and most nights that is the last I see of it -- everything works fine after that. It seems like after something warms up (either in the TV or the STB) the problem goes away; however it did do it again after an hour or so of use the other night, so it might be getting more frequent.

I would appreciate any insight that you gurus could give! I am thinking right now that I should probably try another STB, but it is just curious since it seems to work fine with the s-video. I am perplexed...

I don't think this bothers anyone else as much as it does me, but I have an update.

I was able to measure the delay in the system by making a wav file, then checking the time span between when I press a button and when the action happens.
Using Donkey Konga, there is no measurable delay between hitting the drum and the reaction on-screen with a regular SD tube TV. However, on my Phillips, there is a delay of 0.14 seconds. So, there is a little over an eigth of a second delay.

That doesn't seem like much, but if you like music based games (like Dance Dance Revolution, Samba De Amigo or Donkey Konga) and the song is moving at a modest 120bpm, you can be right in sync with the action on the screen, but the system will register that you're more than a 1/16 note off. A whole sixteenth note!

As for other genres, in Madden I'll have to stop throwing the football right before I get sacked, and in Mortal Kombat when you see that the other guy's starting to throw a punch, he's already hit you.

I love this TV, but I'm wondering if there's a comparable unit that doesn't have this delay. Phillips tech support has yet to get back to me. I wonder if Best Buy will let me take my Gamecube from TV to TV trying them out. Thoughts?

Good day,

First off, let me say that this board and specifically this thread has really been a great help and you are all providing a great service to all owners and I thank you. I have had my 9630a for a few weeks and I would still be looking for a wall mount if if were not from the feedback I got here; I ended up getting a Peerless and having it modded by a local machine shop to make it fit the set.

Anyway, I am having an issue and I am curious as to whether anyone else has seen it or might have a solution. I had originally hooked up to my STB using s-video (until cables came in and modded bracket was ready). In this configuration I had zero problems. Then when I went to wall mount, I changed over to DVI-HDMI and digital audio from the same STB. Since making this change, I have started seeing a problem. When I first power on the set, everything works fine for about 3-5 minutes. Then (at some unspecified time but usually not more than 5 min after powering on), the set goes to snow. It maintains audio, but there is no video other than snow. It has done this every time I have turned it on since switching to the HDMI. If I change inputs and change back there is still snow. If I power the TV off and back on, it restores the picture and most nights that is the last I see of it -- everything works fine after that. It seems like after something warms up (either in the TV or the STB) the problem goes away; however it did do it again after an hour or so of use the other night, so it might be getting more frequent.

I would appreciate any insight that you gurus could give! I am thinking right now that I should probably try another STB, but it is just curious since it seems to work fine with the s-video. I am perplexed...
What model STB do you have? Also what brand DVI to HDMI cable are you using?

SA3250HD and Cables to Go. I have not traded in the STB yet but it is definately on my "to do" list after the holiday.

SA3250HD and Cables to Go. I have not traded in the STB yet but it is definately on my "to do" list after the holiday.

I have never used the SA3250HD so I cant comment. I can tell you I have had excellent results using a DVI to HDMI cable with the SA 4200HD as well as an HDMI to HDMI cable with the SA8300HD DVR which I am currently using. On my cable system both these STB'S use the SARA software. I would wager to say your problem is with the the devices not establishing a firm handshake. If your cable company offers either one of these STB'S I think your problem would be solved. :)

I just picked up the 42PF7320A on black friday. Love it, I have contrast ans brightness turned down for a few days. I have an Avia disc on order. I played alittle Xbox on it but im waiting till i get in broke in and calibrated. I admit i kinda skiped alot of the posts here. So if i ask any question that have been asked im very sorry. Im a tv noob so im still feeling things out :) I got the HDTV/PVR box from comcast coming tomrrow and a DVI to HDMI cable from amazon. I know i have to update my firmwear (tho i say this like a record i have no idea what that means). Anything eles i need to know about this set? Im still just playing with the menu trying to get to know that and settings of the tv. TY for any help :)

PS: what the heck are them H and V inputs for?

I just picked up the 42PF7320A on black friday. Love it, I have contrast ans brightness turned down for a few days. I have an Avia disc on order. I played alittle Xbox on it but im waiting till i get in broke in and calibrated. I admit i kinda skiped alot of the posts here. So if i ask any question that have been asked im very sorry. Im a tv noob so im still feeling things out :) I got the HDTV/PVR box from comcast coming tomrrow and a DVI to HDMI cable from amazon. I know i have to update my firmwear (tho i say this like a record i have no idea what that means). Anything eles i need to know about this set? Im still just playing with the menu trying to get to know that and settings of the tv. TY for any help :)

PS: what the heck are them H and V inputs for?

Thats great news! However this is the thread for the 42PF9630a. I think you might get your answer faster if you posted your question in the 42PF7320a thread which is onging also. :)
Your firmware is the current version of the software your panel is using. On the Philips site under customer support you can find the latest software(firmware) for your panel. They issue updates regularly. Read your manual the instructions will tell you how to install the software you download.

I’m very upset over some info I found today regarding my 50” Philips plasma. I watch a lot of 4:3 DVD’s and love the automatic stretch mode where it just stretches the sides out and leaves the middle in tact. I was very happy to find out that if I hooked up an HDMI up converting DVD player that the automatic mode would still be available. So today I got the Samsung up converting player and when I pop in a 4:3 DVD and hit automatic it stretches everything. So I’m I doing something wrong or this is how automatic works with a 720p/1081i signal? Thinking now about switching to a Panny plasma because of the better PQ

I’m very upset over some info I found today regarding my 50” Philips plasma. I watch a lot of 4:3 DVD’s and love the automatic stretch mode where it just stretches the sides out and leaves the middle in tact. I was very happy to find out that if I hooked up an HDMI up converting DVD player that the automatic mode would still be available. So today I got the Samsung up converting player and when I pop in a 4:3 DVD and hit automatic it stretches everything. So I’m I doing something wrong or this is how automatic works with a 720p/1081i signal? Thinking now about switching to a Panny plasma because of the better PQ
You wont get any better picture quality thats simply not true. I think you should post you DVD questions in the DVD player section you might get a response there. Also you should be aware that when you are connected via HDMI or DVI "Both" automatic and widescreen picture aspect are available. Why would you want to stretch a 4:3 DVD anyway?

Is there 2 different models? 7320a and 7320a/37? One with 3000:1 LG glass and one 10000:1 samsung glass? I know the samsung glass is much better. The PQ at the one a CC looked pretty bad, so i guess it was LG glass... and CC specs are 3000:1, while philips website has 10000:1. so the 7320a that sears and CC sells must be a cheaper version or an old version, right?

I am really curious about this too.. I just bought the 42PF7320A from CC, but the model # on the back of the tv says 42PF7320A/37, manufactured in Oct. 2005. The CC site says this tv has a 3000:1 contrast ratio, but the Philips site says it is 10000:1. Costco has another model 42PF7220A/37 which according to their site has a 10000:1 contrast ratio. The Costco model is on the Philips site too, but you have to search for it; it's not in the list of current tv's for retail sale.

Is there any way to determine what the contrast ratio on my tv is? Does anyone know what the difference is between the 42PF7320A/37 and the 42PF7220A/37 at Costco?

The CC site says that the 42PF9630A/37 has a 3000:1 contrast ratio too.

CJ I want to be able to stretch 4:3 DVD's using automatic but only how it would do it in 480p where it just stretched the very far left and right side and the middle was in tact. 720p/1080i disables that in automatic and all it does is stretch the entire picture.

I am really curious about this too.. I just bought the 42PF7320A from CC, but the model # on the back of the tv says 42PF7320A/37, manufactured in Oct. 2005. The CC site says this tv has a 3000:1 contrast ratio, but the Philips site says it is 10000:1. Costco has another model 42PF7220A/37 which according to their site has a 10000:1 contrast ratio. The Costco model is on the Philips site too, but you have to search for it; it's not in the list of current tv's for retail sale.

Is there any way to determine what the contrast ratio on my tv is? Does anyone know what the difference is between the 42PF7320A/37 and the 42PF7220A/37 at Costco?

The CC site says that the 42PF9630A/37 has a 3000:1 contrast ratio too.


Mine is the same model on the back and I got it at Sears. I shall follow this thread, but I must say the tv looks fantastic. And it was less than $$$.

EDIT>>

Mod note: no pricing, please. Thanks!

the "/37" is part of the model number. Sometimes there are non-american models with the same model number, except for the /37 and they can be quite different. I assume the lack of the "/37" is just an oversight by CC. The contrast ratio should be 10,000:1, but what difference does that make if you are happy with the picture. Philips, in their original spec sheets for this and the 9630a/37 used the 3000:1 contrast ratio. Some of the vendors never bothered changing yhe ratio to the new/corrected one. Why Philips originally put 3000:1 on the spec sheets and then switched, I can't tell you. Did they change glass after the first production run, I doubt it. Did the mktg guys get involved, probably. Since there is no true industry standard, just be happy that you're happy with the picture (I did the same wondering as you when I bought the 9630 in early July). I think the more interesting question is whether the 7320's have Pixel Plus 2, etc. They both use the same service manuals. They both came out about the same time.

the "/37" is part of the model number. Sometimes there are non-american models with the same model number, except for the /37 and they can be quite different. I assume the lack of the "/37" is just an oversight by CC. The contrast ratio should be 10,000:1, but what difference does that make if you are happy with the picture. Philips, in their original spec sheets for this and the 9630a/37 used the 3000:1 contrast ratio. Some of the vendors never bothered changing yhe ratio to the new/corrected one. Why Philips originally put 3000:1 on the spec sheets and then switched, I can't tell you. Did they change glass after the first production run, I doubt it. Did the mktg guys get involved, probably. Since there is no true industry standard, just be happy that you're happy with the picture (I did the same wondering as you when I bought the 9630 in early July). I think the more interesting question is whether the 7320's have Pixel Plus 2, etc. They both use the same service manuals. They both came out about the same time.

thanks for the info mrlandau. I would just like to know for sure what I have; for example, if I sell it in a few years to replace with a newer model I would need the correct specifications. I like the picture quality on my set, but now I am wondering if I should get the 9630 instead. I like the look of the black and silver frame vs. all silver. It was hard to compare the two at CC because they had the 9630 mounted on top of the 7320 and it was placed too high to compare the pq.

the "/37" is part of the model number. Sometimes there are non-american models with the same model number, except for the /37 and they can be quite different. I assume the lack of the "/37" is just an oversight by CC. The contrast ratio should be 10,000:1, but what difference does that make if you are happy with the picture. Philips, in their original spec sheets for this and the 9630a/37 used the 3000:1 contrast ratio. Some of the vendors never bothered changing yhe ratio to the new/corrected one. Why Philips originally put 3000:1 on the spec sheets and then switched, I can't tell you. Did they change glass after the first production run, I doubt it. Did the mktg guys get involved, probably. Since there is no true industry standard, just be happy that you're happy with the picture (I did the same wondering as you when I bought the 9630 in early July). I think the more interesting question is whether the 7320's have Pixel Plus 2, etc. They both use the same service manuals. They both came out about the same time.

All of the documentation on the maufacturers web site (Philips) indicate the 7320 has pixel plus not pixel plus 2 HD. I would wager to say that if you went into the service menu you wouldnt see an option to turn on pixel plus 2 either. This is because pixel plus 2 is a chipset that the panel either has or doesnt have. Its one generation newer then pixel plus. Unfortunaetly pixel plus cannot be upgraded to pixel plus 2 via firmware updates.

understand what you are saying, Casey Jones. You're probably correct, but that same service manual always made me wonder.

I am back to my old problem, which other people can have too. I myself never noticed it but my wife likes to read in the living room and she noticed it, maybe, 4 times. Again, any of owners may have it too. Here is the problem:

All of a sudden, the TV resets itself. What to watch for: There is a click, the green light is on, for a very short time part of the screen glows and it is off to stand-by mode.

Basically, it is the same what would happen if your house would lose the power for some reason. And then when it is back again, the TV resets itself. Except, that the power was on all the time.

I had my suspicions about my surge protector, but it seems that the other gear is not affected.

I finally got pics of my TV posted. Please see this link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6616454#post6616454).

I finally got pics of my TV posted. Please see this link (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6616454#post6616454).

Those pics look really nice. Great job on the installation. :)

I am back to my old problem, which other people can have too. I myself never noticed it but my wife likes to read in the living room and she noticed it, maybe, 4 times. Again, any of owners may have it too. Here is the problem:

All of a sudden, the TV resets itself. What to watch for: There is a click, the green light is on, for a very short time part of the screen glows and it is off to stand-by mode.

Basically, it is the same what would happen if your house would lose the power for some reason. And then when it is back again, the TV resets itself. Except, that the power was on all the time.

I had my suspicions about my surge protector, but it seems that the other gear is not affected.

DId you ever have a cable card installed and go into the service menu and turn the EPG on?

DId you ever have a cable card installed and go into the service menu and turn the EPG on?

I never went to the service menu. The cablecard was removed by the cable guy after it was deactivated.

But I got another loss of power today while watching it. The screen went black for a short time and to get the picture back I had to switch the channel, which is the same in the stand-by mode as to press Power to power it on. So, it moves me to a more active phase of dealing with this problem.

I called Philips earlier today. As usual, they have no clue, but I was directed to the service and now am waiting what they will say (they are ``researching" now). I guess I am facing a long unpleasant repair or something process and will report if there will be anything to report about it.

I never went to the service menu. The cablecard was removed by the cable guy after it was deactivated.

But I got another loss of power today while watching it. The screen went black for a short time and to get the picture back I had to switch the channel, which is the same in the stand-by mode as to press Power to power it on. So, it moves me to a more active phase of dealing with this problem.

I called Philips earlier today. As usual, they have no clue, but I was directed to the service and now am waiting what they will say (they are ``researching" now). I guess I am facing a long unpleasant repair or something process and will report if there will be anything to report about it.

Theres something called the CSM(Customer Service Menu) Philips usually directs the user how to access it. What it does is report any internal errors that the panel has encountered while in use. Thats normally a precursor to repair. If you have the service manual I think it would tell you how to get into it, and what errors may be in the buffer. I'd keep on them research shouldnt take so long, or bump it up to second level tech's real fast. Hope it all works out. :)

This set only has one RF input.

My cableco does not offer HD yet. So I would use this RF input for an antenna to get OTA HD.

I currently have SD cable service. But if I use the RF input for OTA, how could I connect the cable service?

I could upgrade to digital service and use a STB via component input. But if I wanted to take advantage of the CableCard slot, I'm back in the same dilemma.

Any advice?

How many people are seeing dead pixels with this unit? Just want to kind of get a feel for what I should expect.

According to the online troubleshooter the red light inidicates your plasma is in standby mode. Try this(also from the online troubleshooter):

Other:

Problem:Television remains in standby after mains power switched on.

Cause:Television remains in standby after mains power switched on.

Solution: When you put the TV in standby before switching off with mains power switch, it is normal that the television starts up in standby again.
To switch the television on push the 'CH+' or 'P' button on the remote control.
The display always starts in standby mode when switched on with the mains switch when a TV is connected.

Red light on:

Other
Problem: Television, explanation (power) lights.
Cause: Red light is on.
Solution :Red light is on when television is in standby mode.


Here is an update on my situation. CircuitCity repair came out today to diagnose the problem. They called Philips and were told to order a new power supply. So it may be 2 weeks before I am back up and running.

On another note. My wife is concerned that this is a sign that this tv will be a paper weight in a year or so. Plus she is concerned about the whole burn in issue. Even the repair guy said that the new ones can still burn in easily. This makes me not even want to try my xbox on this tv. So for my wife, I went to CC today and looked at some of the projection tvs, like the Sony KDF-E42A10. It seemed nice, but compared to the brightness and viewing angles of the plasma, it sucked.

Any comments would be appreciated.

I am back to my old problem, which other people can have too. I myself never noticed it but my wife likes to read in the living room and she noticed it, maybe, 4 times. Again, any of owners may have it too. Here is the problem:

All of a sudden, the TV resets itself. What to watch for: There is a click, the green light is on, for a very short time part of the screen glows and it is off to stand-by mode.

Basically, it is the same what would happen if your house would lose the power for some reason. And then when it is back again, the TV resets itself. Except, that the power was on all the time.

I had my suspicions about my surge protector, but it seems that the other gear is not affected.


Sounds almost like the problem I am having. But mine has the red light flashing, even if you unplug it and plug it back in. Philips is replacing the power supply.

Theres something called the CSM(Customer Service Menu) Philips usually directs the user how to access it. What it does is report any internal errors that the panel has encountered while in use. Thats normally a precursor to repair. If you have the service manual I think it would tell you how to get into it, and what errors may be in the buffer. I'd keep on them research shouldnt take so long, or bump it up to second level tech's real fast. Hope it all works out. :)

Thanks Casey Jones,

It is very valuable info. It appears that the service people do exactly what you say when they make a service call. Unfortunately, the couple places Philips referred me to so far, do not know that. They suggest to bring the TV over for up to two weeks. Philips says if no one will come, then will consider other actions (?).

I was given more places to call and will try to do so.

I am not sure if I should go into service menu myself - would it void my warranty?
But my main question is: It looks like you might have an idea what is wrong. Can you tell me? Can it be it be repaired via menu or I would still need some part? In the latter case, even if I know which part is needed to be replaced, I cannot do anything myself.

I still have warranty till August, 2006 (and + 4 year extra). But, it looks like it can be useless unless there is someone who actually can make a service call.

I have some other observations, possibly related:

1. It started to happened when I switched to the cable box.
2. Plus, when I switched to another cable HDMI-DVI (neothech). Immediately after that I began to see some green distortions when switching to some channels (not all the time). What if something wrong with the cable (not properly securely wires, so the tv goes to a protection mode sometimes?) ( I plan to switch back to check).
3. Remote quited working a few times. I has to pull out batteries. I could insert them in the wrong order.
4. Once, when I was watching the HD programming via cbox/hdmi, the tv info was showing that the source is TV.

Having said this, I MUST add that I really like this tv and don't want any other. The PQ is beyond all expectations.

On a positive note, I've had no problems with mine and no dead pixels, love the PQ, HDTV, DVD and plenty of PS2.

I just picked up the 42PF7320A on black friday. Love it, I have contrast ans brightness turned down for a few days. I have an Avia disc on order. I played alittle Xbox on it but im waiting till i get in broke in and calibrated. I admit i kinda skiped alot of the posts here. So if i ask any question that have been asked im very sorry. Im a tv noob so im still feeling things out :) I got the HDTV/PVR box from comcast coming tomrrow and a DVI to HDMI cable from amazon. I know i have to update my firmwear (tho i say this like a record i have no idea what that means). Anything eles i need to know about this set? Im still just playing with the menu trying to get to know that and settings of the tv. TY for any help :)

PS: what the heck are them H and V inputs for?

The H and V inputs are specific for RGBHV connections. Remember older computer monitors that would use a cable with VGA (HD-15 pin connector) on one end and 5 seperate color coded cables on the other end (typically with BNC connectors)? You can use an SVGA to 5 RCA cable to connect your computer to the TV. That is what I am doing now. My current setup is:

SA8300HD DVR via HDMI-HDMI
Toshiba Upconverting DVD Player via HDMI-HDMI
Dell D600 Laptop and docking station via SVGA to 5 RCA (Steren Cable) on AV1

You can still use the more common 3 ended component cable to input into AV1 for other sources.

PS Sorry for the late response... I haven't been getting my AVSForum email updates :rolleyes:

PPS I have an extra set of new SVGA to 5 RCA Steren cables if anyone is interested in hooking up their PC via AV1.

As stated before, I am still in the process of researching options for HD cable, so we've only been watching DVD's so far. We only had time to watch a couple so far. I've discovered that if you get a DVD that says it has "anamorphic widescreen" you don't have any black bars when viewing in widescreen mode. It utilizes the whole screen and looks great. I hope this becomes a standard on more DVD's. Just thought I'd pass this along. It must be something new. I've not heard of it before.

Anamorphic is definitely not new. But yes its nice, although I don't mind black bars, kind of reminds me of letterbox 3:2 tv days when I thought I was getting my moneys worth. :-)

As stated before, I am still in the process of researching options for HD cable, so we've only been watching DVD's so far. We only had time to watch a couple so far. I've discovered that if you get a DVD that says it has "anamorphic widescreen" you don't have any black bars when viewing in widescreen mode. It utilizes the whole screen and looks great. I hope this becomes a standard on more DVD's. Just thought I'd pass this along. It must be something new. I've not heard of it before.

Anamorphic, I think, is about ``squeezing more info and then stretching it for better PQ. It will fill in all the screen if the dvd says 16:9 or smaller ratio. If it is, say, 2:40:1, you will get horizontal bars. Here is a guide to this concept:



http://www.thedigitalbits.com/articles/anamorphic/index.html

How many people are seeing dead pixels with this unit? Just want to kind of get a feel for what I should expect.
Had mine since August of this year no dead or stuck pixels. :)

Thanks Casey Jones,

It is very valuable info. It appears that the service people do exactly what you say when they make a service call. Unfortunately, the couple places Philips referred me to so far, do not know that. They suggest to bring the TV over for up to two weeks. Philips says if no one will come, then will consider other actions (?).

I was given more places to call and will try to do so.

I am not sure if I should go into service menu myself - would it void my warranty?
But my main question is: It looks like you might have an idea what is wrong. Can you tell me? Can it be it be repaired via menu or I would still need some part? In the latter case, even if I know which part is needed to be replaced, I cannot do anything myself.

I still have warranty till August, 2006 (and + 4 year extra). But, it looks like it can be useless unless there is someone who actually can make a service call.

I have some other observations, possibly related:

1. It started to happened when I switched to the cable box.
2. Plus, when I switched to another cable HDMI-DVI (neothech). Immediately after that I began to see some green distortions when switching to some channels (not all the time). What if something wrong with the cable (not properly securely wires, so the tv goes to a protection mode sometimes?) ( I plan to switch back to check).
3. Remote quited working a few times. I has to pull out batteries. I could insert them in the wrong order.
4. Once, when I was watching the HD programming via cbox/hdmi, the tv info was showing that the source is TV.

Having said this, I MUST add that I really like this tv and don't want any other. The PQ is beyond all expectations.

As far as I know any repair is to be in home. I wouldnt let my plasma out of the house unless it was being replaced on the spot with a new one. And that may be just what Philips is thinking Alex. I know they have replaced them before or sent new plasma screens to owners.Who do you have your warranty with? As far as the HDMI DVI cable you speak of I know that color distortion and /or sparklies can be a sign of a poor quality cable.Using HDMI or DVI should be picture perfect.
I wouldnt attempt any repair to the unit hell thats why you got a warranty .As far as the service menu goes at this point your probably better off not going into it just getting it replaced or repaired.Those other things you mention seem like separate issues inserting wrong batteries etc.
I was reading a post just the other day on this forum where a user thought his plasma had GHOSTS in it. He described the unit turning itself on etc. when no one was there. After much back and forth with the manufacturer and a repair or two he discovered what the problem was. In his case the on/off button on the plasma was sticking causing the erratic behavior. Funny how things work out isnt it. :) If you can keep us informed of your progress.

Here is an update on my situation. CircuitCity repair came out today to diagnose the problem. They called Philips and were told to order a new power supply. So it may be 2 weeks before I am back up and running.

On another note. My wife is concerned that this is a sign that this tv will be a paper weight in a year or so. Plus she is concerned about the whole burn in issue. Even the repair guy said that the new ones can still burn in easily. This makes me not even want to try my xbox on this tv. So for my wife, I went to CC today and looked at some of the projection tvs, like the Sony KDF-E42A10. It seemed nice, but compared to the brightness and viewing angles of the plasma, it sucked.

Any comments would be appreciated.


If your so concerned about burn in that you cant enjoy the benefits of a plasma then perhaps another technology would be best in your situation.I for one dont use my panel for gaming. When I intially contacted Philips many months ago they said that gaming consoles can be connected to the panel however they didnt recommend long usage sessions. But thats a normal warning for any static image.

RoadrashTX,

Am I recalling correctly or not? Did you purchase yours as an open box?

Hey Guys....
I just wanted to give you an update on my Buzzing Sound issue. Here is a quick rundown on sequence of events:

1. Put the TV on mute
2. Display an image that is significantly white (Hit Menu on the Remote)

When I do this, there is a very noticeable buzzing sound comming from the TV. If I change the channel, say to something with a very dark image the buzzing sound is significantly reduced. I have also checked this against different inputs (SAT - via S-Video, DVD via - HDMI and Xbox via Component) but same results. Based on some feedback w/in this thread I ordered a Belkin Pure A/V Surge Protector Power Condition. It significantly helped to reduce the buzzing sound but not entirely. So I called Phillips this past Sunday and here are my observations

1. Called mid day PST and it only took 5 mins to get through
2. Talked with a Call Director who just took my info
3. Got transfered to another agent who I explained my issue to then they put me on hold for approx 3 min
4. When the agent got back on the phone she indicated that they would need to send a service repairman to look at the issue.

Considering that i've only had this TV for two weeks I proceeded to BB where I advised them of the situation. I will be receiving a new TV this Friday so I will let you all know what happens. As for the PQ of this set, it is AMAZING. The ambient light is awesome and captivating. There were no dead pixels on the screen when I received the set and I wouldn't want any other. Hopefully this buzzing sound is related to this specific set.

Hey Guys....
I just wanted to give you an update on my Buzzing Sound issue. Here is a quick rundown on sequence of events:

1. Put the TV on mute
2. Display an image that is significantly white (Hit Menu on the Remote)

When I do this, there is a very noticeable buzzing sound comming from the TV. If I change the channel, say to something with a very dark image the buzzing sound is significantly reduced. I have also checked this against different inputs (SAT - via S-Video, DVD via - HDMI and Xbox via Component) but same results. Based on some feedback w/in this thread I ordered a Belkin Pure A/V Surge Protector Power Condition. It significantly helped to reduce the buzzing sound but not entirely. So I called Phillips this past Sunday and here are my observations

1. Called mid day PST and it only took 5 mins to get through
2. Talked with a Call Director who just took my info
3. Got transfered to another agent who I explained my issue to then they put me on hold for approx 3 min
4. When the agent got back on the phone she indicated that they would need to send a service repairman to look at the issue.

Considering that i've only had this TV for two weeks I proceeded to BB where I advised them of the situation. I will be receiving a new TV this Friday so I will let you all know what happens. As for the PQ of this set, it is AMAZING. The ambient light is awesome and captivating. There were no dead pixels on the screen when I received the set and I wouldn't want any other. Hopefully this buzzing sound is related to this specific set.

Thats exactly what I would have done under the circumstances. Your plasma should be totally silent. That was a 'BIG" issue for me when I was looking for mine.

How many people are seeing dead pixels with this unit? Just want to kind of get a feel for what I should expect.
No dead or stuck pixels on my set. I had mine since August and it looks great.

As far as I know any repair is to be in home. I wouldnt let my plasma out of the house unless it was being replaced on the spot with a new one. And that may be just what Philips is thinking Alex. I know they have replaced them before or sent new plasma screens to owners.Who do you have your warranty with? As far as the HDMI DVI cable you speak of I know that color distortion and /or sparklies can be a sign of a poor quality cable.Using HDMI or DVI should be picture perfect.
I wouldnt attempt any repair to the unit hell thats why you got a warranty .As far as the service menu goes at this point your probably better off not going into it just getting it replaced or repaired.Those other things you mention seem like separate issues inserting wrong batteries etc.
I was reading a post just the other day on this forum where a user thought his plasma had GHOSTS in it. He described the unit turning itself on etc. when no one was there. After much back and forth with the manufacturer and a repair or two he discovered what the problem was. In his case the on/off button on the plasma was sticking causing the erratic behavior. Funny how things work out isnt it. :) If you can keep us informed of your progress.

I agree on all points. The service that offered to take it suggested that they will just wrap it in something and will keep for 2 weeks. They did not plan to go into service menu or do anything in my house at all! And what if they will leave it on for 24/7 and it will ``burn'' it, scratch it, and other liability, etc.? Philips actually was trying to press on me saying that if I refuse to give it away from the house the warranty is void. I strongly disagree and will stick, if it comes to that, only to the in-home-service.

Interestedly, one of the Philips' people also mentioned that a surge protector can automatically disconnect the power. I just wonder: What could possibly b ea reason for the power loss once in, say, 24 hrs? You mention the power button. I don't see anything wrong with my. But it can be some contact elsewhere. But also the surge protector version is a possibility.

On the other hand, my dvd-player is not affected. But it is possible if this power overvoltage or what ever is for a very short time - if it is not that sensitive as the TV. Well I will try to explore this by using delays in the surge protector...

The voltage in my house ss normally between 123.5-126.9 and saw it at 127.4. It can drop significantly when the vacuum, heater, or something is on, say, by as much as 3 volts.

I cannot say anything about the cable - the PQ is outstanding, so I don' t think it is not good. I rather thought it can be deffective. I have these distortions with two different cables at the moment of switching to some channels only, say, between SD and HD. Only the color of them changed. Actually, the manual warns about possible distortions when wtching to STB and if the source is labeled like this, the TV will go the Soft mode.

Casey,
you are correct. it was an open box

Mark

I agree on all points. The service that offered to take it suggested that they will just wrap it in something and will keep for 2 weeks. They did not plan to go into service menu or do anything in my house at all! And what if they will leave it on for 24/7 and it will ``burn'' it, scratch it, and other liability, etc.? Philips actually was trying to press on me saying that if I refuse to give it away from the house the warranty is void. I strongly disagree and will stick, if it comes to that, only to the in-home-service.

Interestedly, one of the Philips' people also mentioned that a surge protector can automatically disconnect the power. I just wonder: What could possibly b ea reason for the power loss once in, say, 24 hrs? You mention the power button. I don't see anything wrong with my. But it can be some contact elsewhere. But also the surge protector version is a possibility.

On the other hand, my dvd-player is not affected. But it is possible if this power overvoltage or what ever is for a very short time - if it is not that sensitive as the TV. Well I will try to explore this by using delays in the surge protector...

The voltage in my house ss normally between 123.5-126.9 and saw it at 127.4. It can drop significantly when the vacuum, heater, or something is on, say, by as much as 3 volts.

I cannot say anything about the cable - the PQ is outstanding, so I don' t think it is not good. I rather thought it can be deffective. I have these distortions with two different cables at the moment of switching to some channels only, say, between SD and HD. Only the color of them changed. Actually, the manual warns about possible distortions when wtching to STB and if the source is labeled like this, the TV will go the Soft mode.

My plasma , home theater reciever, powered subwoofer , DVD player and the SA 8300HD DVR STB are all connected to the same surge protector. Its nothing fancy , cant monitor the voltage or anything like that, but it has a fast response time to guard against voltage spikes etc. to avoid frying anything. So far this has worked out well. Hope your issue is resolved soon, if possible keep us informed.
On the in home warranty issue you spoke of some retailers( Like CC) if you bought an extended service contract from them automatically assume the original first year warranty issued by the manufacturer. Reason I mentioned this is that if you did purchase one then you would have another avenue to persue.

Casey,
you are correct. it was an open box

Mark

The problem with an open box purchase is you never really know for sure what your getting. Many retailers may not say (or wont say) the complete history on the unit. It may have simply been a display unit or one returned by another customer for possibly the same problem as your experiencing and then put on display. Without knowing this its hard to make an informed decision on a further course of action. What I can tell you is what your experiencing is not normal behavior in my opinion. Unless there is something unique to your electrical current(fluctuations) or some other cause within your particular residence ( static buildup) then I would return the unit and get another one. If this symptom reoccurred after that you would know its something unique to your situation. My thoughts,,,,,,,,save yourself alot of grief replace the unit.

My plasma , home theater reciever, powered subwoofer , DVD player and the SA 8300HD DVR STB are all connected to the same surge protector. Its nothing fancy , cant monitor the voltage or anything like that, but it has a fast response time to guard against voltage spikes etc. to avoid frying anything. So far this has worked out well. Hope your issue is resolved soon, if possible keep us informed.
On the in home warranty issue you spoke of some retailers( Like CC) if you bought an extended service contract from them automatically assume the original first year warranty issued by the manufacturer. Reason I mentioned this is that if you did purchase one then you would have another avenue to persue.

I have no complaints about the surge protector- if it disconnects the gear due to overvoltage it is a good thing. Otherwise, your electronics is slowly frying and is degrading.

I was amazed by the difference my Monster $80 surge protector with filters for dirty power, Stage 1, v. 2.0 made over the standard $39 Belkin. Then my old Monster HTS2000 ($200), Stage 2, v. 1.0 simply did not let the HD signal through in a different system, for which I need a lot of sockets, including, high current sockets (2 amps for 600 + 800watts, preamp, 2 dvd-players, ICBM powered crossover unit, powered Component to RGB converter, RPTV, STB) and HD signal pass through. When I got it (PureAV PF60 - nice review in the hometheatherspot.com too - so I was certain that the HD signal will go through it), I tried it with the plasma for one evening and again was blown away (my wife also liked it - it means a lot to me, since she really hates my toys). So, I bought another unit (paid about $325 + shipping).

But, maybe, I just have very dirty power in my house. If you have a clean power you don't need it. Now, I am thinking of buying a power stabilizer - I always have 125-126.9 volts instead of 120. This can trigger the protection.

Plus, I still did not notice this problem with TV myself. There is a lot clicking going on in our living room. I was there once when it happened and did not notice a thing until my wife pointed out at it. (The earlier case when it happened when we were watching it was incorrect- it was the loss of signal from the STB - now replaced).

I have no complaints about the surge protector- if it disconnects the gear due to overvoltage it is a good thing. Otherwise, your electronics is slowly frying and is degrading.

I was amazed by the difference my Monster $80 surge protector with filters for dirty power, Stage 1, v. 2.0 made over the standard $39 Belkin. Then my old Monster HTS2000 ($200), Stage 2, v. 1.0 simply did not let the HD signal through in a different system, for which I need a lot of sockets, including, high current sockets (2 amps for 600 + 800watts, preamp, 2 dvd-players, ICBM powered crossover unit, powered Component to RGB converter, RPTV, STB) and HD signal pass through. When I got it (PureAV PF60 - nice review in the hometheatherspot.com too - so I was certain that the HD signal will go through it), I tried it with the plasma for one evening and again was blown away (my wife also liked it - it means a lot to me, since she really hates my toys). So, I bought another unit (paid about $325 + shipping).

But, maybe, I just have very dirty power in my house. If you have a clean power you don't need it. Now, I am thinking of buying a power stabilizer - I always have 125-126.9 volts instead of 120. This can trigger the protection.

Plus, I still did not notice this problem with TV myself. There is a lot clicking going on in our living room. I was there once when it happened and did not notice a thing until my wife pointed out at it. (The earlier case when it happened when we were watching it was incorrect- it was the loss of signal from the STB - now replaced).

Got me thinking can you tell me what you noticed as far as the difference the stage 1 v.20 made over your older surge protector . I have been looking at them.

Got me thinking can you tell me what you noticed as far as the difference the stage 1 v.20 made over your older surge protector . I have been looking at them.

The most and very noticable difference was for the SD digital and analogue channels, which became relatively distortion free with much better color saturation. The HD channels were less affected, in comparison.

The PF60 made a big difference for the HD channels - the intensity of the picture colors, the more realistic, like you are there, view. Way more 3-d. Only at this point I became truly convinced that it was worth to spend so much money on this plasma. The SD channels now look like almost HD, especially from a slightly further sitting position. Sometimes, I need some time to determine whether it is HD or not, especially on some SD HBO channels.

Again, it is subjective and depends on the quality of the power in your house. I don't really care how fancy this protector is, and don't really need all these features like voltage display (today it was showing 127.9) or delays. I am not really afraid of the surges and don't feel that I really need any surge protection -
I don't know any case when it was actually useful in our area. Normally, I just disconnect everything from the wall if there is a thunderstorm.

I rather was after a better PQ, which I feel can be achieved by better filters in this surge protectors. I really want to try the power stabilizer (but it is costly).

The most and very noticable difference was for the SD digital and analogue channels, which became relatively distortion free with much better color saturation. The HD channels were less affected, in comparison.

The PF60 made a big difference for the HD channels - the intensity of the picture colors, the more realistic, like you are there, view. Way more 3-d. Only at this point I became truly convinced that it was worth to spend so much money on this plasma. The SD channels now look like almost HD, especially from a slightly further sitting position. Sometimes, I need some time to determine whether it is HD or not, especially on some SD HBO channels.

Again, it is subjective and depends on the quality of the power in your house. I don't really care how fancy this protector is, and don't really need all these features like voltage display (today it was showing 127.9) or delays. I am not really afraid of the surges and don't feel that I really need any surge protection -
I don't know any case when it was actually useful in our area. Normally, I just disconnect everything from the wall if there is a thunderstorm.

I rather was after a better PQ, which I feel can be achieved by better filters in this surge protectors. I really want to try the power stabilizer (but it is costly).

Thanks for the information, much appreciated. :)

I got my 42PF9630a/37 that I won in the ESPN 100 Yard Blitz contest. Here is a picture.

I have enabled Ambilight 2 and TV Guide in the Service Menu. I am very impressed by the Ambilight, though I can only use it at night to any effect. I just started the TV Guide setup last night, so it is running still gathering data. I will peruse it tonight and let you know what I think.

My setup includes Comcast Digital Cable via an SA 8300HD DVR box. Picture quality over component cables (AV1) is excellent. I currently have my settings at Brightness 50, Contrast 50, and Color 35. Any higher color and the reds start to look radioactive. Sharpness is at 3, though I have also spent time at 2. Any lower and the picture looks muddy, and higher makes SD programs look more grainy.

The most and very noticable difference was for the SD digital and analogue channels, which became relatively distortion free with much better color saturation. The HD channels were less affected, in comparison.

The PF60 made a big difference for the HD channels - the intensity of the picture colors, the more realistic, like you are there, view. Way more 3-d. Only at this point I became truly convinced that it was worth to spend so much money on this plasma. The SD channels now look like almost HD, especially from a slightly further sitting position. Sometimes, I need some time to determine whether it is HD or not, especially on some SD HBO channels.

Again, it is subjective and depends on the quality of the power in your house. I don't really care how fancy this protector is, and don't really need all these features like voltage display (today it was showing 127.9) or delays. I am not really afraid of the surges and don't feel that I really need any surge protection -
I don't know any case when it was actually useful in our area. Normally, I just disconnect everything from the wall if there is a thunderstorm.

I rather was after a better PQ, which I feel can be achieved by better filters in this surge protectors. I really want to try the power stabilizer (but it is costly).



I am looking at picking this TV up in a few weeks and have been adamently reading the posts on this thread. The more I read the more I realize I need more accesories. :confused: Can you guys please help me and tell me exactly what I will need to buy w/ the TV? What are the MUST HAVE accesories to get the best picture and sound quality from a Time Warner HD Box? What can I not buy from Best Buy or Circuit City? Any help would be much appreciated! :)

Thank you.

I got my 42PF9630a/37 that I won in the ESPN 100 Yard Blitz contest. Here is a picture.

I have enabled Ambilight 2 and TV Guide in the Service Menu. I am very impressed by the Ambilight, though I can only use it at night to any effect. I just started the TV Guide setup last night, so it is running still gathering data. I will peruse it tonight and let you know what I think.

My setup includes Comcast Digital Cable via an SA 8300HD DVR box. Picture quality over component cables (AV1) is excellent. I currently have my settings at Brightness 50, Contrast 50, and Color 35. Any higher color and the reds start to look radioactive. Sharpness is at 3, though I have also spent time at 2. Any lower and the picture looks muddy, and higher makes SD programs look more grainy.

Wow, congrats on the contest win! I am considering one of the new ambilight Phillips Plasmas or LCD's thru my employer. Any chance you can post a pic a nighttime with the ambilight 2 active? Nice set up.

Mike

I am looking at picking this TV up in a few weeks and have been adamently reading the posts on this thread. The more I read the more I realize I need more accesories. :confused: Can you guys please help me and tell me exactly what I will need to buy w/ the TV? What are the MUST HAVE accesories to get the best picture and sound quality from a Time Warner HD Box? What can I not buy from Best Buy or Circuit City? Any help would be much appreciated! :)

Thank you.

As I described it in the above, I would recommend a good surge protector which can filter the power. I heard that plasmas are sensitive in this respect. In my case I picked PF60 from Belkin PureAv - about $300 online at www.digitallyunique.com, www.X10.com and many other places, but $749 in CC.
There are other options (Monster) but it should be able to pass the HD signal.

The coaxial cable should be RG6 (not RG59) with good connectors (I like something like Zenith F-cables). All the cables should be of reasonably good quality, including digital. (I use Canare connectors/Belden component video cables (ebay) and use hdmi Neotech (ebay) and Philips cables PXT1000 series.) But, clearly, different people would recommend different cables.

I'm now having the same problem as RoadRashTX. I am unable to get my TV to power on....the right light keeps flashing. In the past, I would just pull the power cord for a few seconds and plug it back in, but that's not working anymore. Guess it's time to call Philips.

I'm now having the same problem as RoadRashTX. I am unable to get my TV to power on....the right light keeps flashing. In the past, I would just pull the power cord for a few seconds and plug it back in, but that's not working anymore. Guess it's time to call Philips.

Assuming the sleep timer hasnt accidently been activated it may be this:

Overview : all information available

Problem: Television, explanation (power) lights.

Cause : Blinking red led.

Solution: Television is probably malfunctioning due to electrostatic discharge. Try resetting the television by unplugging it from the power outlet for 10 seconds.

But from your post seems that you already tried that.

I'm now having the same problem as RoadRashTX. I am unable to get my TV to power on....the right light keeps flashing. In the past, I would just pull the power cord for a few seconds and plug it back in, but that's not working anymore. Guess it's time to call Philips.

When I talked to Philips about my problem, they incidentally mentioned the red light, and said that it means that TV in this case falls in the protective mode. I don't know what this means exactly.

Hey guys,could someone explain what "Ambilight 2" does exactly?

Hey guys,could someone explain what "Ambilight 2" does exactly?

Ambilight 2 can provide a different color on each side of the screen. The other Ambilight is the same color for both sides.

I was watching a DVD last night (on AV3 with digital audio) and when it was over attempted to switch back to AV1 (Comcast DVR box). Got a blank screen. Same on TV, or AV2 (VCR). Cable box was on, and I could change its channel, but nothing showed on the TV. Seemed like the input was stuck and would not switch. Pulled plug for about 30 seconds, plugged it back in, and all was fine.

Anyone else seen this happen?

what firmware do you have? I think one of the firmare updates fixed a problem like that.

if it is before 1.02.0 00181, you may want to update the firmware.

every few minutes my tv loses sound only way to get the sound back is to change the chanel. using charter cable with SA explorer 3000 stb.

firmware 1.0.5.0 and higher took care of that kind of problem with some cable boxes. Is your firmware newer or older?

When I talked to Philips about my problem, they incidentally mentioned the red light, and said that it means that TV in this case falls in the protective mode. I don't know what this means exactly.


When the red light is flashing the panel has detected a condition that would be detrimental to continue operation. When this occurs the panel goes into protection mode and issues an error code internally to the error buffer. Also if you look at the number of blinks it will tell you the error code. This information in the error buffer will be used by the tech. to diagnose if its a hardware problem. It can also be detected in CSM mode.This info. is outlined in the service manual. I think there must be some commonality with the setups experiencing this problem. I believe the panels are doing just what they should and protecting themselves from an electrostatic buildup as is stated in the online troubleshooter, the question is what is causing the buildup to occur? Thats the question that needs to be addressed. Perhaps it could be a local environmental issue relating to the electrical current, a particular STB or SAT connection? Whatever it turns out to be this would be important to know to avoid it recurring after a repair.

every few minutes my tv loses sound only way to get the sound back is to change the chanel. using charter cable with SA explorer 3000 stb.

Is the Sa 3000 box analog or digital? Also what connection are you using to the plasma.

every few minutes my tv loses sound only way to get the sound back is to change the chanel. using charter cable with SA explorer 3000 stb.

I regularly have the same on ComedyCentral, maybe, every, 15-20minutes or more. I use digital in. It does not happen on other channels (well at least on those I watch out af 150 - 200+ I have). I believe it is the problem with the signal and the way the STB handles it for this particular channel. I read other people also have this problem on some channels.

When the red light is flashing the panel has detected a condition that would be detrimental to continue operation. When this occurs the panel goes into protection mode and issues an error code internally to the error buffer. Also if you look at the number of blinks it will tell you the error code. This information in the error buffer will be used by the tech. to diagnose if its a hardware problem. It can also be detected in CSM mode.This info. is outlined in the service manual. I think that there must be some commonality with the setups experiencing this problem. I think the panels are doing just what they should and protecting themselves from an electrostatic buildup as is stated in the online troubleshooter, the question is what is causing the buildup to occur? Thats the question that needs to be addressed. Perhaps it could be a local environmental issue relating to the electrical current, a particular STB or SAT connection? Whatever it turns out to be this would be important to know to avoid it recurring after a repair.

Thanks for the info. Is there any way to get this service manual? (For education)

As I described it in the above, I would recommend a good surge protector which can filter the power. I heard that plasmas are sensitive in this respect. In my case I picked PF60 from Belkin PureAv - about $300 online at www.digitallyunique.com, www.X10.com and many other places, but $749 in CC.
There are other options (Monster) but it should be able to pass the HD signal.

The coaxial cable should be RG6 (not RG59) with good connectors (I like something like Zenith F-cables). All the cables should be of reasonably good quality, including digital. (I use Canare connectors/Belden component video cables (ebay) and use hdmi Neotech (ebay) and Philips cables PXT1000 series.) But, clearly, different people would recommend different cables.
Do you route your coax cables through the surge protector? Does it make a difference to the PQ? What about signal strength? Thanks!

Thank you all. I have been a lurker, and I just purchased my 42PF9630A last night. It really is gorgeous.

I only have standard cable at this time. Digital will come after I mount on the wall in a few weeks. I have noticed a few channels will have the channel name on it, but most don't. Does anyone know how I can add the name myself if it doesn't pick it up on its own? I know the manual mentioned being able to use the remote to type letters, but I don't know if it was meant for labeling your channels.

Chiahead,

I am under the impression that cable companies are required to include unencrypted local hd channels on all levels of cable service. When you did the initial channel scan when you first turned on the TV, did it find any digital stations? I get my local hd channels on 101.2, 111.7, 111.8, 112.3, and 213. Don't need the cable box or an antenna to get hd!

yes, my digital local ones show up on 81.6 through 81.13. But there are no descriptions when I skip through the stations. A few are labeles, but very few. i.e. 42 is FOXN, 28 is DISNEY, 6 is KRMA. I would like to label the rest like KRMA HD and 9NEWS HD, but am unsure how.

As for getting digital cable, that is for dicovery in HD and things like that, and possibly the Comcast PVR.

Do you route your coax cables through the surge protector? Does it make a difference to the PQ? What about signal strength? Thanks!

As far as I know the surge protector does not clean the signal, but it can make it weaker up to the point where you will not be able to decode it. Therefore, one needs a surge protector which simply passes it through with minimal loss, which does not affect the PQ. (It is a digital signal, so, ``roughly", if you lose less than half a pulse, you still can recover it - of course, it is not that simple.) I know two such protectors as I have and tried them: Monster HTS800 stage 1, v. 2.0 ($80) in RadioShack, which is designed for HDTV (as advertised on the box), and PureAV PF60. Definitely, other more expensive Monster models and other models like PF40 are fine too, but not all of them.

I pass the signal through the surge protector only for protection - all wires should go through it with no exception to have surge protection.

Chiahead,

I am under the impression that cable companies are required to include unencrypted local hd channels on all levels of cable service.

My cable company sure doesn't do this. Is this a Federal requirement?

Ok, I enabled the TV Guide feature in the service menu, set up the ir cable and followed the on-screen directions and let the damn thing run for three days. All it does is cycle repeatedly through all the channels on my cable box. The TV Guide just keeps saying "no data available". What the hell is it doing? Does it ever stop? Has anyone actually gotten in to work?

jes1955,

Have you fed the cable signal directly into the RF input on your tv and let it search for available channels? That's the only way you can look for digital stations on your cable line. Someone (I think on this thread) said it was a federal requirement.

Ok, I enabled the TV Guide feature in the service menu, set up the ir cable and followed the on-screen directions and let the damn thing run for three days. All it does is cycle repeatedly through all the channels on my cable box. The TV Guide just keeps saying "no data available". What the hell is it doing? Does it ever stop? Has anyone actually gotten in to work?

The built in EPG as I recall is primarily for people who are using a cable card. Cable card users currently dont have access to a cable companys online guide . If you have the SA8300HD DVR (same model as I have) why would you want to activate the built in TV guide?

Ok, I enabled the TV Guide feature in the service menu, set up the ir cable and followed the on-screen directions and let the damn thing run for three days. All it does is cycle repeatedly through all the channels on my cable box. The TV Guide just keeps saying "no data available". What the hell is it doing? Does it ever stop? Has anyone actually gotten in to work?
I had enabled mine and it did work but the Guide was not able to resolve the arbitrary digital numbers like 101.804, etc. It only took one night's time to propogate the data. After that, it was receiving data 4 times a day. I disabled the guide as well since it wan't much help when trying to decipher what channel I was watching when trying to watch live TV while my DVR was recording two shows at once. It was rare that I needed to watch a live show when my DVR was tied up.

I would appreciate your advice about an annoying artifact in my picture. Whenever there is a dimly lit scene, or a dark background, I see a lot of pixel squares flickering. I'm not sure what the correct jargon is for this, but it really distracts me. I believe it is more noticeable in SD but I see it also in HD. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Not much you can do about it. Its about compression from their end. Believe me when I first got satellite I spent hours on the phone with them trying.

Not much you can do about it. Its about compression from their end. Believe me when I first got satellite I spent hours on the phone with them trying.
Since I use satellite also (D*), is pixelation (if that is a correct term) a problem with that specific mode of transmission?

I think it happens more with Sat than Cable, but cable is not immune. I really noticed it on Sat on "older" shows (lets say Hogan Heroes.) One tech explained to me the problem with those kind of shows was they had to be converted from their original "formats", compressed and transmitted. So yea, I noticed they looked much worse than newer shows (talking SD broadcasts here.) It especially made me mad during old movies on TMC or AMC etc.

I know this isnt a very technical description of the problem, nor a solution - but I don't think there is one right now. Well, the size of the tv does matter. My old 54" RP looked horrible compared to the Phillips - as far as this issue goes. Simply because the screen was that much larger = you notice every defect more.

First,thanks Tommy for the reply on Ambilight 2.
Second,could someone affirm if I can use a SD memory card and a card reader to do an update?
Sorry,I'm a bit tech challenged and appreciate all who take the time to educate people like me. :confused: :)
Thanks!

I am looking at picking this TV up in a few weeks and have been adamently reading the posts on this thread. The more I read the more I realize I need more accesories. :confused: Can you guys please help me and tell me exactly what I will need to buy w/ the TV? What are the MUST HAVE accesories to get the best picture and sound quality from a Time Warner HD Box? What can I not buy from Best Buy or Circuit City? Any help would be much appreciated! :)

Thank you.

From my experience I would say to get the SA8300HD DVR STB it has a great picture and 5.1 sound is really sweet. Also I am using an HDMI to HDMI cable and the picture looks great. Make sure that time warner has the HDMI output enabled on the STB.

Hey guys,could someone explain what "Ambilight 2" does exactly?
Let me add to what Tommy Z said. Ambilight and Ambilight 2 are what Philips calls auto adaptive to screen content. This means that ambilight will choose certain colors that appear on the screen and emulate them on both sides of the plasma panel.In the case of Ambilight 2 different colors can be displayed on either side of the panel depending on the screen content, many people call this Ambilight (stereo). This is one mode of many available with Ambilight and Ambilight 2. :)

I would appreciate your advice about an annoying artifact in my picture. Whenever there is a dimly lit scene, or a dark background, I see a lot of pixel squares flickering. I'm not sure what the correct jargon is for this, but it really distracts me. I believe it is more noticeable in SD but I see it also in HD. Any thoughts? Thanks.

What your describing is called false contouring. It can be caused by a number of things however in your case it would seem to be resulting from a poor signal. I have had this plasma since August of this year, connected with a SA8300HD DVR STB via HDMI to HDMI and never experienced the problem even with SD. From what I have read a proper HD signal contains up to 20 million bits of info per sec, digital 5 million bits . As you can see 4 digital channels can be transmitted with the same bandwidth for one HD channel. Now if you were to compare that, HD would be the size of a pumpkin, digital the size of a large grapefruit and SD, well that would be the size of a large grape. When providers compress signals to provide more channels to subscribers it takes the available bandwidth away from the others and reduces the signal quality. And yes SD will suffer the most. In my case I got lucky, our cable company upgraded to fiber optic cabling and has plenty of bandwidth to spare, our SD channels look fine. :) Low quality cables and analog connections may increase the perception of this problem, whereas digital cabling either DVI or HDMI may greatly lessen or eliminate it fully. Of course my experience is with cable not Sat.

First,thanks Tommy for the reply on Ambilight 2.
Second,could someone affirm if I can use a SD memory card and a card reader to do an update?
Sorry,I'm a bit tech challenged and appreciate all who take the time to educate people like me. :confused: :)
Thanks!

Go to the PHilips web site, under customer support type in the model number and you will be presented with detailed instructions for the panel. :)

Hey Guys I just wanted to give you an update on my Buzzing noise situation. I had a new set delivered by BB on this past Friday and tada!!! NO BUZZING NOISE. Looks like it was the set afterall thanks for the advise guys. I love this set even more. Now to turn on Ambient Light in Stereo =)

Hey Guys I just wanted to give you an update on my Buzzing noise situation. I had a new set delivered by BB on this past Friday and tada!!! NO BUZZING NOISE. Looks like it was the set afterall thanks for the advise guys. I love this set even more. Now to turn on Ambient Light in Stereo =)


Great news. As you now found out these plasmas are silent. :)

Well, the TV Guide setup just continues to cycle through all the channels on my cable box, never satisfied that it is done, and never adding any data to the onscreen TV Guide. I know it is not necessary with my DVR (SA 8300HD), but I just wanted a chance to compare and contrast the TV Guide with the DVR's (Comcast) programming guide. Doesn't appear it is going to work, as the TV Guide system refuses to initialize...

Hi all,

Have a question I'm hoping you an help me with. I've recently purchased a Pioneer PDP4360HD plasma (loving it) and am connected to Rogers HD Cable (live in Canada).

I've completed the set-up instructions but the TV Guide doesn't seem to want to load the information.

It can cycle thru the channels for days on end but doesn't seem to download any program info. I've tried the set-up a couple of different times with various connection settings (i.e. input/cable A; or input 1) but it doesn't seem to make any difference.

Would anyone have any ideas? Maybe I'm doing something wrong? I'd like to try and get this working if possible.

Thanks,
John

jnanos1,

Thanks, that is exactly the same thing I am seeing with my SA 8300HD. It cycled for nearly a week, never loaded any information. Just gave up and turned the damn thing off.

Hi all,

Have a question I'm hoping you an help me with. I've recently purchased a Pioneer PDP4360HD plasma (loving it) and am connected to Rogers HD Cable (live in Canada).

I've completed the set-up instructions but the TV Guide doesn't seem to want to load the information.

It can cycle thru the channels for days on end but doesn't seem to download any program info. I've tried the set-up a couple of different times with various connection settings (i.e. input/cable A; or input 1) but it doesn't seem to make any difference.

Would anyone have any ideas? Maybe I'm doing something wrong? I'd like to try and get this working if possible.

Thanks,
John

This should be posted in one of the ongoing pioneer threads. You might get the specific help your looking for there. You can also try the cable company posts HD and non HD in another forum. They are specific to location and cable company. :) This thread is for the 9630a model Philips plasma so answers may not apply to your setup.

ok - thanks Casey

In attempting to get the TV Guide On Screen to function over the course of nearly a week, it only accomplished one thing: It set my TV clock to about 12 and a half hours off. No other data downloaded in all that time. If anyone ever gets an idea why this isn't working, let me know, but for now I'm switching it off.

This was with a Comcast SA 8300HD DVR and the Philips 42PF9630a/37 TV. Latest firmware was loaded in the TV. IR sensor was positioned and was scanning the cable box (channels were stepped off, but just went back to 1 after 999 and kept cycling around endlessly day after day).

Reading all these posts about the troubles with the Guide, it becomes clear why Philips does not offer this option (and people have to do it sort of ``illegally' via the service menu ). So, ``not all what is forbidden is good for you.''

In attempting to get the TV Guide On Screen to function over the course of nearly a week, it only accomplished one thing: It set my TV clock to about 12 and a half hours off. No other data downloaded in all that time. If anyone ever gets an idea why this isn't working, let me know, but for now I'm switching it off.

This was with a Comcast SA 8300HD DVR and the Philips 42PF9630a/37 TV. Latest firmware was loaded in the TV. IR sensor was positioned and was scanning the cable box (channels were stepped off, but just went back to 1 after 999 and kept cycling around endlessly day after day).
There are a number of factors that may be contributing to your guide problems. The first is that your cable company may not be transmitting the code that has the data for the guide. I know Cablevision does because I had mine working. Another is the connection to the TV. The TV must have a direct connection to the coax cable. Data will not transmit from the cable box over HDMI/DVI/Component etc. You may want to join a Comcast discussion to find out if they do transmit the data.

Keep in mind that some have reported that their sets did not shut off with the satisfying "click" noise once the guide was activated. This could be in part because the TV must connect while the set is off.

jes1955,

Have you fed the cable signal directly into the RF input on your tv and let it search for available channels? That's the only way you can look for digital stations on your cable line. Someone (I think on this thread) said it was a federal requirement.

Yes, I did this. Thanks anyway. My cable provider says that they provide the HD local channels free with upgrading to digital cable. But, the fact remains that these local channels are encrypted until I upgrade and get a box.

I'm using a Monster Dolby Digital CoAx cable to get my 5.1 from my DVD to my Receiver. Now that I havce a new Plasma (42PF9630A), I am trying to plan my wiring, and to get the HD audio from the Plasma to the receiver, I would need to go from the audio out on the Plasma to an optical in. I have never seen an optical cable to know what it looks like, but is there any way to convert from the digital output on the Plasma to the optical input on my receiver?

My DVD is a Sony DVP-NC615 (5 disc changer) and the receiver is a Sony STR-K840P.

I have mapped how to wire everything else, but this. I want to get the HD sound from the Plasma to my surround sound, and the DVD is already using the 1 input.

Thanks

Reading all these posts about the troubles with the Guide, it becomes clear why Philips does not offer this option (and people have to do it sort of ``illegally' via the service menu ). So, ``not all what is forbidden is good for you.''


Very well put! I dont know why someone with a cable STB would need it anyway. :)

I'm using a Monster Dolby Digital CoAx cable to get my 5.1 from my DVD to my Receiver. Now that I havce a new Plasma (42PF9630A), I am trying to plan my wiring, and to get the HD audio from the Plasma to the receiver, I would need to go from the audio out on the Plasma to an optical in. I have never seen an optical cable to know what it looks like, but is there any way to convert from the digital output on the Plasma to the optical input on my receiver?

My DVD is a Sony DVP-NC615 (5 disc changer) and the receiver is a Sony STR-K840P.

I have mapped how to wire everything else, but this. I want to get the HD sound from the Plasma to my surround sound, and the DVD is already using the 1 input.

Thanks
Tell me something are you using a cable connection? IF so what STB model?

Yes, I did this. Thanks anyway. My cable provider says that they provide the HD local channels free with upgrading to digital cable. But, the fact remains that these local channels are encrypted until I upgrade and get a box.


Ah, but as I said, I believe this is not allowed, they are supposed to supply an unencrypted signal for those stations under ALL service levels, including basic analog.

There are a number of factors that may be contributing to your guide problems. The first is that your cable company may not be transmitting the code that has the data for the guide. I know Cablevision does because I had mine working. Another is the connection to the TV. The TV must have a direct connection to the coax cable. Data will not transmit from the cable box over HDMI/DVI/Component etc. You may want to join a Comcast discussion to find out if they do transmit the data.

Keep in mind that some have reported that their sets did not shut off with the satisfying "click" noise once the guide was activated. This could be in part because the TV must connect while the set is off.


That was key information. I was using component for the cable box. However, once I set it up to use the coax input (which I already had via a splitter) the TV itself suddenly stopped tuning ANY STATION OR INPUT!!! It also did not respond to the remote control. I had to unplug the set for 30 seconds and plug it back in to get it to work again. That does it, no more experimenting with the TV Guide!!!! I would highly suggest no one else should do it either!

Tell me something are you using a cable connection? IF so what STB model?

Thanks for the response.

I am currently using standard Comcast cable, so no box. That will come later with the PVR. Hopefully I can connect that through HDMI. For now it is just standard cable in, but it can detect my local channels in HD. It is that sound I am trying to get back to my receiver.

Since I do not know much about connecting digital audio (beyond the Left Right Video cables) I am confused.

I found the following link:
http://www.svideo.com/coaxtoslink1.html
Is this what I would need to go from the digital out on the plasma to an optical input?

Also is this digital out known as a S/PDIF cable?

Thanks.

My Phillips has optical in and out on it. I don't use it as I go direct to my receiver.

S/PDIF is an optical feed (often called lightpipe) and the cable has two tiny "light bulbs" on either end. This is what the Phillips uses. There is another kind of digital feed called coax (but its not cable tv coax.) On my setup I use a coax from my DVD player to receiver, and S/PDIF from the cable box to my receiver.

I think you mentioned you're already using the optical input on your receiver for the dvd player. If you only have one input, you're not going to be able to use Dolby from the cable box without physically switching the plugs .... unless there is some kind of switchbox made that I don't know about. But then again, most good receivers have at least two optical inputs.

My Phillips has optical in and out on it. I don't use it as I go direct to my receiver.

S/PDIF is an optical feed (often called lightpipe) and the cable has two tiny "light bulbs" on either end. This is what the Phillips uses. There is another kind of digital feed called coax (but its not cable tv coax.) On my setup I use a coax from my DVD player to receiver, and S/PDIF from the cable box to my receiver.

I think you mentioned you're already using the optical input on your receiver for the dvd player. If you only have one input, you're not going to be able to use Dolby from the cable box without physically switching the plugs .... unless there is some kind of switchbox made that I don't know about. But then again, most good receivers have at least two optical inputs.


No, the DVD goes in using a Digital coax. I also have an optical input on the receiver that I want to go from the TV to. But What I see on the Phillips TV looks round (like the digital coax), where the optical input on the receiver looks almost square, like there is a little push door. So I think I need to convert from the digital coax to the optical.

I will have to check to verify that there are lights on the end of the DVD to receiver, but I thought just looking last night that it looked like a thick RCA cable.

Digital Coax does look like a thick RCA cable.

I'm positive my Phillips has S/PDIF in and out.

Digital Coax does look like a thick RCA cable.

I've even used RCA cable in a pinch. Sounds the same as the "real" digital coax. :)

No, the DVD goes in using a Digital coax. I also have an optical input on the receiver that I want to go from the TV to. But What I see on the Phillips TV looks round (like the digital coax), where the optical input on the receiver looks almost square, like there is a little push door. So I think I need to convert from the digital coax to the optical.

I will have to check to verify that there are lights on the end of the DVD to receiver, but I thought just looking last night that it looked like a thick RCA cable.

If you need it, you can buy an optical (toslink) to digital converter for $18, for example, at partsexpress.com:


http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=180-960

(if this link does not work, you can make a search for optical to coaxial converter)

or much more expensive converter elsewhere. Then, you can just go to a Walmart and buy an optical digital cable for $10 (or a more expensive elsewhere), see, for example:

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=2489306

Hope it helps a little.

If you need it, you can buy an optical (toslink) to digital converter for $18, for example, at partsexpress.com:


http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=180-960


Thanks Alek. That link worked and was a little cheaper than what I had found. I have purchased it, and will attempt this wiring job next week.

Thank you all for the help as I am learning about all the joys of a home theater.

I've been sitting on the sidelines for 1.5 years and about six months ago was ready to buy and HD set. Then I convinced myself to wait for 1080p . Well the 50PF930A arrived Monday and I can't believe this TV, it is simply amazing. No buyer's remorse at all except when 1080p debuts next year. I've study the posts on this site for a long time and I have visited many high end stores studying plasma TVs. I even looked at CR - they say pick Panny, although their rating pool is very small.

I believe the PQ on this set is one of the best out there. I'm sure the ambilight adds to my opinion since the back lighting will make blacks seem deeper. In any event, I've enabled Ambilight 2 using the tricks outlined in this thread. I thank all who contribute to this forum as we all learn from each other and it only costs us our time!

I have a log home so ambilight is interesting on the logs. My wife saw a cobweb the other day she missed while cleaning, just another benefit of this amazing feature. Reading the posts I thought it would be a gimmick but it really adds to the viewing experience at night, it is little value during day light hours if your room is bright. The unit is too new at this point to post much, so I'll continue to enjoy it and will add some of my experiences as I get more familiar with this great toy.

Just a couple of observations out of the box:

I will say that the sound is lacking although not a big deal for me since I'll be running my Yamaha receiver for movies and such. The designers at Philips spent too much time making Ambilight great and missed lighting up the remote - I wish it had back lighting, a big design blunder with so much emphasis placed on the benefits of Ambilight since this feature works best when it is dark.

Set up was very easy, turned the contrast and brightness down and PQ is still good. I'm not going to trash the set for SD PQ since I didn't buy it for that reason, however, my channels are poor, not sharp, grainy in appearance. My HD receiver comes next week so hopefully things will improve with that piece of equipment. I'm with Dishnetwork so if anyone has experiences with this provider, I'd welcome some help.

In closing, thanks again to all who contribute to this forum. Your information has helped guide my purchasing decision by allowing me to evaluate the importance of issues discussed on this thread (as they relate to my preferences), which ultimately leads to an informed buying decision.

I'm not going to trash the set for SD PQ since I didn't buy it for that reason, however, my channels are poor, not sharp, grainy in appearance.

I had a similar problem which was solved by adding a good surge protector with filters that clean the power.

I've been sitting on the sidelines for 1.5 years and about six months ago was ready to buy and HD set. Then I convinced myself to wait for 1080p . Well the 50PF930A arrived Monday and I can't believe this TV, it is simply amazing. No buyer's remorse at all except when 1080p debuts next year. I've study the posts on this site for a long time and I have visited many high end stores studying plasma TVs. I even looked at CR - they say pick Panny, although their rating pool is very small.

I believe the PQ on this set is one of the best out there. I'm sure the ambilight adds to my opinion since the back lighting will make blacks seem deeper. In any event, I've enabled Ambilight 2 using the tricks outlined in this thread. I thank all who contribute to this forum as we all learn from each other and it only costs us our time!

I have a log home so ambilight is interesting on the logs. My wife saw a cobweb the other day she missed while cleaning, just another benefit of this amazing feature. Reading the posts I thought it would be a gimmick but it really adds to the viewing experience at night, it is little value during day light hours if your room is bright. The unit is too new at this point to post much, so I'll continue to enjoy it and will add some of my experiences as I get more familiar with this great toy.

Just a couple of observations out of the box:

I will say that the sound is lacking although not a big deal for me since I'll be running my Yamaha receiver for movies and such. The designers at Philips spent too much time making Ambilight great and missed lighting up the remote - I wish it had back lighting, a big design blunder with so much emphasis placed on the benefits of Ambilight since this feature works best when it is dark.

Set up was very easy, turned the contrast and brightness down and PQ is still good. I'm not going to trash the set for SD PQ since I didn't buy it for that reason, however, my channels are poor, not sharp, grainy in appearance. My HD receiver comes next week so hopefully things will improve with that piece of equipment. I'm with Dishnetwork so if anyone has experiences with this provider, I'd welcome some help.

In closing, thanks again to all who contribute to this forum. Your information has helped guide my purchasing decision by allowing me to evaluate the importance of issues discussed on this thread (as they relate to my preferences), which ultimately leads to an informed buying decision.

If your SD looks grainy etc. its your signal quality not the ability of the panel to produce an SD signal. Mine produces a very good sd picture . You might want to also check your cabling. Im using an SA 8300HD DVR and the picture is great. :)

I was wondering if someone who has enabled Ambilight 2 could help me out.On page 16,post #461 of this thread,Edh72 says,"Type 062596 Info".I assume(uh-oh,there's that word again)that you type 062596 and hit the info button,correct?O.K.,my real problem is I type those numbers,and they appear in the upper left of the screen,but when I get to the last number 6,it won't register on the screen.So I can't get into that menu.
Appreciate any ideas :( thanks

I was wondering if someone who has enabled Ambilight 2 could help me out.On page 16,post #461 of this thread,Edh72 says,"Type 062596 Info".I assume(uh-oh,there's that word again)that you type 062596 and hit the info button,correct?O.K.,my real problem is I type those numbers,and they appear in the upper left of the screen,but when I get to the last number 6,it won't register on the screen.So I can't get into that menu.
Appreciate any ideas :( thanks

What ED h says is correct.

Via a standard RC transmitter: key in the code “062596”
directly followed by the “INFO” button. After activating SAM
with this method a service warning will appear on the screen,
you can continue by pressing the red button on the RC.

Be careful in the service menu!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Casey,thanks for the reply.I don't know what happened,but after trying, I don't know how many times,for about a week,I finally just got it to work.No,I'm not going near anything else in the service menu! :eek:
Looking forward to checking out Ambi 2 tonight!
Love this T.V.!
Btw,thanks to your reply to an earlier post of mine,I was able to update the firmware on the panel useing my cameras' SD card and a card reader.
Thanks again for all your help!

has anyone found a workaround to the PIP limitation of this set (via HDMI input only??).. this is fairly disappointing to know the only way PIP's input works is with the HDMI input.

run your cable through the vcr...then connect the vcr to the tv using the RCA cables... you should be able to use PIP. I got PIP to work using this method = )

Casey,thanks for the reply.I don't know what happened,but after trying, I don't know how many times,for about a week,I finally just got it to work.No,I'm not going near anything else in the service menu! :eek:
Looking forward to checking out Ambi 2 tonight!
Love this T.V.!
Btw,thanks to your reply to an earlier post of mine,I was able to update the firmware on the panel useing my cameras' SD card and a card reader.
Thanks again for all your help!

Sometimes things take time. Enjoy your plasma. :)

Does anyone know if the Ambilight2 trick will work with the 50PF9630A? Has anyone tried it?

run your cable through the vcr...then connect the vcr to the tv using the RCA cables... you should be able to use PIP. I got PIP to work using this method = )


so you can use PIP with analog for one input signal and composite or RCA for the second input signal ?? and not just analog for input 1 & HDMI for input 2??

What ED h says is correct.

Via a standard RC transmitter: key in the code “062596”
directly followed by the “INFO” button. After activating SAM
with this method a service warning will appear on the screen,
you can continue by pressing the red button on the RC.

Be careful in the service menu!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Casey, In an earlier post you mentioned that you have downloaded the service manual. As its not available online any more, would you care to share that manual via e-mail.

Thanks.

Does anyone know if the Ambilight2 trick will work with the 50PF9630A? Has anyone tried it?


Yes, it will, I have performed it on my 50PF9630A.

I dont know if anyone is aware of this or not but earlier in this thread there was talk about not being able to have an on screen volume bar. Well I was reading another post in a thread and tried this and it worked fine. Go into your menu via your remote, go under setting, then preferences, select OSD and change from minimum to normal. Exit to the screen and you will have a volume bar on the left hand side of your screen when you adjust the volume. The only thing I cant figure out is how to remove the connection type, ie: HMDI1 in light grey above the volume bar on the screen. Anyone know how to remove that???

Casey, In an earlier post you mentioned that you have downloaded the service manual. As its not available online any more, would you care to share that manual via e-mail.

Thanks.

As you stated that file is no longer available online. Sorry but I dont have it on my computer. :(

I dont know if anyone is aware of this or not but earlier in this thread there was talk about not being able to have an on screen volume bar. Well I was reading another post in a thread and tried this and it worked fine. Go into your menu via your remote, go under setting, then preferences, select OSD and change from minimum to normal. Exit to the screen and you will have a volume bar on the left hand side of your screen when you adjust the volume. The only thing I cant figure out is how to remove the connection type, ie: HMDI1 in light grey above the volume bar on the screen. Anyone know how to remove that???

Yea, its lame, I can't watch TV with that input on my screen all the time.

I've seen one person mention it, but I'm looking for some more opinions on the picture delay when playing videogames. Has anybody played an XBOX or XBOX 360 on this tv? Can you comment on this delay, and whether or not it effects gameplay?

Yea, its lame, I can't watch TV with that input on my screen all the time.
Yea,one of the first things I did was turn the volume bar off,I was actually afraid of burn in from that thing on screen all the time,lol,I'm not paranoid,am I?If anyone finds a fix for that it'd be cool.
One other thing,is anyone having a problem with the sound occasionally cutting out?I thought it might be a signal transmission problem,but when I turn the panel off and back on again,the sound returns?
Sorry fishbone,I don't play games on the panel,so can't help you there.

No problems with my sound. My PS2 works fine on my TV, I don't notice any lag at all. Games like Shadow of Colossus, God of War, RE4, Hockey, etc.

haha, edit: I just remembered all my sound runs through my receiver, so for all I know the sound on the tv is all messed up :p

One other thing,is anyone having a problem with the sound occasionally cutting out?I thought it might be a signal transmission problem,but when I turn the panel off and back on again,the sound returns?

You may try to switch to another chanel and back. I have this problem on the Comedy Channel.

Yea, its lame, I can't watch TV with that input on my screen all the time.

Seems to me that would be a good candidate for a future firmware update. :)

Thanks for the reply Blackie & Alek :)
Alek,I'll try switching chanels next time,it does'nt happen that often,but I wonder if I should have it checked out.
Seems to me that would be a good candidate for a future firmware update.
Yea,I would'nt think that would be too hard to fix.

I'm currently trying to get the Philips EPG ("Guide") working because I dearly miss my cable companies guide (I'm using a cablecard). Here is what happens:

- Turn on the guide in the Service Menu.
- Store the change
- Turn off TV.
- Unplug TV, wait 30 seconds.
- Plug TV back in.
- Turn on TV.
- TV comes on and brings up the TV Guide screen.

At this point, the screen is pretty much totally empty, except for a yellow highlighting bar in the middle of the screen. I can move this bar from field to field (hower the fields are empty except for the 3rd field down which only has a comma in it) using my remote's arrow keys. No error messages or anything. This screen eventially goes black.

Does anyone else's do this?

Has anyone ordered thru costco online? How long did it take for you guys to recieve it?

I just ordered the 42PF9630A/37, I dont know if they'll send me the shipping date in email, I did not see anything in the order form or order status page.

For this model, s&h was included in the price, why is it only for this model, but not for other model (42PF7220A/37)?

Since most of the stores in SF bay area dont keep either of these models, I guess only option is to order online.

Anyone know if there is any store in SF bay area with7220A or 9630A?

Like any one else, once I decided to pull the trigger, I want this piece right now !!

(Reposting this from another 7220A thread hoping to see someone answer)

I'm now having the same problem as RoadRashTX. I am unable to get my TV to power on....the right light keeps flashing. In the past, I would just pull the power cord for a few seconds and plug it back in, but that's not working anymore. Guess it's time to call Philips.


This is the problem I had. CC repair came out and had to order me a new power supply. And of course, the power supplys are on backorder. I may have mine working again by the 23rd of December. Otherwise I may go to CC and buy another just to use over Christmas.

RR

As you stated that file is no longer available online. Sorry but I dont have it on my computer. :(


Does anyone else have this service manual pdf file still on their computer that they could upload it to an ftp or file sharing site? I have been searching for it, but it is no where to found on the web anymore.

thanks

Hi I hooked up my laptop (IBM T41) to my TV through the VGA -> 5 RCA cable and it works perfectly when I surf the internet and display any image. But when I try and play a movie the image only comes up black on the TV, but the video plays normally on laptop. Any comments? many thanks.

I've seen a lot of talk on this thread about using the VGA to 5 RCA cable to run your PC video to the plasma panel. Has anyone tried a DVI to HDMI cable? Would this be better than a VGA to 5 RCA (as I assume it would)?

If anyone has tried both, let me know. This is one awesome forum and the knowledge and advice in this thread is second to none!

Thanks!

Sorry gnefx, I don't know why it wouldn't show up. What are you using on the PC for playback?

Does anyone else have this service manual pdf file still on their computer that they could upload it to an ftp or file sharing site? I have been searching for it, but it is no where to found on the web anymore.

thanks
I happend to remember that I downloaded it. Found it on my computer. I tried to upload it to this thread 3 times, but kept getting a message that the posting is invalid. The file is 31K, so maybe its too big. If you can give me a site where to post it or your E-mail address, I can try to get it to you. If you don't want to share your E-mail on this thread, you can send me a private message.

I've seen a lot of talk on this thread about using the VGA to 5 RCA cable to run your PC video to the plasma panel. Has anyone tried a DVI to HDMI cable? Would this be better than a VGA to 5 RCA (as I assume it would)?

If anyone has tried both, let me know. This is one awesome forum and the knowledge and advice in this thread is second to none!

Thanks!

Sorry gnefx, I don't know why it wouldn't show up. What are you using on the PC for playback?

Thank you for your reply. I think DVI will be better, but unfortunately, I don't have a DVI port on my laptop. I tried both realplayer and windows media player, but neither worked. I think the problem might be the setup of my laptop, but dont know how to adjust it.

Does anyone else have this service manual pdf file still on their computer that they could upload it to an ftp or file sharing site? I have been searching for it, but it is no where to found on the web anymore.

thanks


is this what you need?
http://www.p4c.philips.com/na4/4/42pf9630a_37/42pf9630a_37_dfu_aen.pdf

I'm currently trying to get the Philips EPG ("Guide") working because I dearly miss my cable companies guide (I'm using a cablecard). Here is what happens:

- Turn on the guide in the Service Menu.
- Store the change
- Turn off TV.
- Unplug TV, wait 30 seconds.
- Plug TV back in.
- Turn on TV.
- TV comes on and brings up the TV Guide screen.

At this point, the screen is pretty much totally empty, except for a yellow highlighting bar in the middle of the screen. I can move this bar from field to field (hower the fields are empty except for the 3rd field down which only has a comma in it) using my remote's arrow keys. No error messages or anything. This screen eventially goes black.

Does anyone else's do this?
Its my understanding that not all cable providers will allow external EPG's to function on there systems. Mine does but I dont use cablecard.

Its my understanding that not all cable providers will allow external EPG's to function on there systems. Mine does but I dont use cablecard.

Thanks Casey, I appreciate your reply. Of course, I tried calling my cable provider (Insight in Northern KY) a few days ago and they have no clue. I didn't really try pushing the issue with them though.

Thank you for your reply. I think DVI will be better, but unfortunately, I don't have a DVI port on my laptop. I tried both realplayer and windows media player, but neither worked. I think the problem might be the setup of my laptop, but dont know how to adjust it.

There are a lot of settings within Realplayer and WMP, I would start by tinkering with them to see if you can get the movie to show up. Sorry I don't have a better answer than that. You may also look into what type of external monitor the laptop thinks is hooked up to it. I will try it on mine once I get the correct cable and let you know what happens. Good luck!

Thank you for your reply. I think DVI will be better, but unfortunately, I don't have a DVI port on my laptop. I tried both realplayer and windows media player, but neither worked. I think the problem might be the setup of my laptop, but dont know how to adjust it.


I use and HDMI/DVI cable from my Powerbook to the tv. Everything works fine, including windows media, quicktime, dvd's, web, avi, etc. etc.

I have no idea if PC 'puters work the same way, but Macs can use the TV as a second display or to mirror the Powerbook screen. Might make a difference viewing video depending on your video card but .... both ways work fine for me. Example: I can fire up a video on the tv and still surf the web, etc on the Powerbook screen.

I compared this Philips to a panny EDTV and a Panny HDTV. I always hear the hype about panny plasmas but to my eyes the Philips always wins. The colors are always nicer and the whole picture seems more pleasing. The Panny's are sharper but the colors aren't as nice. I just wish Philips made a 37 inch commercial plasma.

I compared this Philips to a panny EDTV and a Panny HDTV. I always hear the hype about panny plasmas but to my eyes the Philips always wins. The colors are always nicer and the whole picture seems more pleasing. The Panny's are sharper but the colors aren't as nice. I just wish Philips made a 37 inch commercial plasma.

I was in the same attitude when I walked into Sears, ready to buy the Panny EDTV (within my budget of 2K) because I hear a lot of good reviews about it. Lucky for me Sears have the Panny, Samsung and the Philips side by side and after standing there for at least 1hour comparing all three the Philips stood out (even my GF noticed it and she usually dont care about TV's). I checked the adjustments and they are all in factory settings. Im happy with the Philips and the salesguy PM Costco's price plus an additional 10% off (total with tax $$$ thanks CA tax of 8.75) and also gave me the Sony DVP-NS70 for $95. Merry X-mas to me :)

EDIT>>

mod note: no price talk, please. MSRP only, thanks.

Hello Everyone,

I have been following this post and thank everyone for their input-especially Casey Jones. I was wondering about the sound on this unit. It states on Best Buy's website that this unit has subwoofers in it. I was wondering what everybody thinks of the sound. Any buzzing from the cabinet when loud with the bass tones? I will sometimes use my home theater but do not want to turn it on every time I turn on the t.v. Any reply would be appreciated. Hope to be a proud owner of this tv soon.:)

Hello Everyone,

I have been following this post and thank everyone for their input-especially Casey Jones. I was wondering about the sound on this unit. It states on Best Buy's website that this unit has subwoofers in it. I was wondering what everybody thinks of the sound. Any buzzing from the cabinet when loud with the bass tones? I will sometimes use my home theater but do not want to turn it on every time I turn on the t.v. Any reply would be appreciated. Hope to be a proud owner of this tv soon.:)

The 9630a does not have a subwoofer. The sound is what you would expect , adequate for viewing shows but not Home theater quality at all. Volume level is good 15 watts per channel. We never use it for prime time specials or DVDs but for everyday shows it does it job. The unit has a bulit in graphic equalizer that helps some also. :)

Hello Everyone,

I have been following this post and thank everyone for their input-especially Casey Jones. I was wondering about the sound on this unit. It states on Best Buy's website that this unit has subwoofers in it. I was wondering what everybody thinks of the sound. Any buzzing from the cabinet when loud with the bass tones? I will sometimes use my home theater but do not want to turn it on every time I turn on the t.v. Any reply would be appreciated. Hope to be a proud owner of this tv soon.:)

The 9630a does not have a subwoofer. The sound is what you would expect , adequate for viewing shows but not Home theater quality at all. Volume level is good 15 watts per channel. We never use it for prime time specials or DVDs but for everyday shows it does its job. The unit has a bulit in graphic equalizer that helps some also. :) I have no buzzing at all we keep the level control not to exceed 40. Bass tones, theres no more than any other plasma so hope you own a subwoofer,lol!

I compared this Philips to a panny EDTV and a Panny HDTV. I always hear the hype about panny plasmas but to my eyes the Philips always wins. The colors are always nicer and the whole picture seems more pleasing. The Panny's are sharper but the colors aren't as nice. I just wish Philips made a 37 inch commercial plasma.

I agree, in spite of all this popularity and all kinds of reviews for Panny and others, I just like the Philips' picture more. For me there is no contest here. I guess, nothing is wrong with this situation, you pick what you like,
if, of course, it you who is actually doing it, that is, if you are not ``brainwashed" or influenced by something or someone.

Thank's for the timely response and input, Casey

Adequate sound for regular tv shows is all I expect from all plasma's. That is good to hear. I was asking about the buzzing sound coming from the chassis(cabinet) because when I was at a local Sam's club and turned up the volume of the tv they had on display -not to Loud-which was another model of phillips( it had all silver-no black bezel, probably a model below this one) I noticed a rattle coming from the cabinet during certain sound tones. It is so hard to hear the sound quality of these plasma tv's on display at local stores with all the backround noise in the stores. And I do have the BIG subwoofer for the good stuff!

I happend to remember that I downloaded it. Found it on my computer. I tried to upload it to this thread 3 times, but kept getting a message that the posting is invalid. The file is 31K, so maybe its too big. If you can give me a site where to post it or your E-mail address, I can try to get it to you. If you don't want to share your E-mail on this thread, you can send me a private message.

I would love to have it and I sent you a private message.
Thanks.

Thank's for the timely response and input, Casey

Adequate sound for regular tv shows is all I expect from all plasma's. That is good to hear. I was asking about the buzzing sound coming from the chassis(cabinet) because when I was at a local Sam's club and turned up the volume of the tv they had on display -not to Loud-which was another model of phillips( it had all silver-no black bezel, probably a model below this one) I noticed a rattle coming from the cabinet during certain sound tones. It is so hard to hear the sound quality of these plasma tv's on display at local stores with all the backround noise in the stores. And I do have the BIG subwoofer for the good stuff!

I have no rattles from sound or anything else. Of course I'm speaking about the 9630a.

Yea, its lame, I can't watch TV with that input on my screen all the time.

Just a little info. I had called Philips Customer Service yesterday and asked one of the techs how long the input type remains on screen when you activate the volume control via the the OSD menu option. The volume control disappears quickly but the input type ie HDMI1 remains in light grey. Well they werent sure but took my number and said they would call me back. Well guess what? They did :) . It seems that it will show on the screen for 10 minutes . Anyhow thats the info I was given.

I just hooked up the HDMI from my SA 8300HD DVR last night to my 42PF9630a. Picture is nice, but I noticed something annoying. The picture keeps resetting to 'soft' when I turn off the tv and then back on. I want to use the 'personal' setting. Component always stayed where I put it. I find that ALL of the preset picture settings are way to contrasty (no detail at all in even semi dark scenes) and with way too much color (the familiar radioactive red look that most people somehow seem to think looks good on a tv screen. YUCK!!!) My 'personal' settings are 55B, 50C and 35color. Nice natural skin tones, reasonable red, and good detail in dark scenes. Is there some way to get HDMI to stay there and not reset to that awful soft setting?

Just a little info. I had called Philips Customer Service yesterday and asked one of the techs how long the input type remains on screen when you activate the volume control via the the OSD menu option. The volume control disappears quickly but the input type ie HDMI1 remains in light grey. Well they werent sure but took my number and said they would call me back. Well guess what? They did :) . It seems that it will show on the screen for 10 minutes . Anyhow thats the info I was given.


I wonder if there is a way to adjust that in the service menu...

I just hooked up the HDMI from my SA 8300HD DVR last night to my 42PF9630a. Picture is nice, but I noticed something annoying. The picture keeps resetting to 'soft' when I turn off the tv and then back on. I want to use the 'personal' setting. Component always stayed where I put it. I find that ALL of the preset picture settings are way to contrasty (no detail at all in even semi dark scenes) and with way too much color (the familiar radioactive red look that most people somehow seem to think looks good on a tv screen. YUCK!!!) My 'personal' settings are 55B, 50C and 35color. Nice natural skin tones, reasonable red, and good detail in dark scenes. Is there some way to get HDMI to stay there and not reset to that awful soft setting?

The Soft setting is automatic when you swtch to the source called STB (it is in the manual). I assigned my as Others.

Well, I am back once more to my problem: My plasma turns the power off itself sometimes. I mean POWER, as opposed to going to stand-by. It is already in stand-by, then the power is disconnected for a fraction of a second, and it is back in stand-by.

The new thing is that I noticed that it did it THREE times in a row AT about THE SAME TIME(did not check it earlier), 7:43 am. It cannot be just a coincidence.

I don't believe that this TV has a timer which can disconnect the power completely (the keyword), as opposed to going to stand-by.

My most plausible explanation is that there is a power spike at this time, say, something, is powered on at this time somewhere. These can last a few nanoseconds and either TV or my PF60 disconnects the power and reconnects it again. However, it does not affect other gear - dvd-player or electric alarm-clock or vcr or the stb (whichhower sends a message after the power is on that HDMI link is sensed) in the house. Can plasma be more sensitive?

Casey Jones wrote about the power button in somewhat similar case. Can you refer me to this thread please?

My power button does not disconnect the power completely - only on or off to stand-by (the same as all my other TVs).

Bcobb,

I had the same problem but when I changed the PBS channel from HD to normal SD in the EPG guide setup (I think SD channel is 20, not sure), then EPG had all the contents. Seems like EPG gets downloaded on this channel. I have Comcast.

The Soft setting is automatic when you swtch to the source called STB (it is in the manual). I assigned my as Others.


Excellent, thanks!! I will change mine when I get home from work.

I've learned a few things- First, that time delay (especially with gaming) is a recognized problem with HDTVs, and is even discussed quite a bit on this site. I wish I would have looked into that before making a purchase, but oh well. Second, no one on this thread is as vexed by it as I am, and I don't know why. Maybe I'm the only one who plays rhythm games.

In any case, tonight I talked to Philips tech support. The guy told me that they realize time delay is an issue with this set, but he said it can be fixed with a firmware update. I asked when this update would come out, and he said he didn't know- it would depend on how many people complain about the delay. If only a few people have a problem with it, they're less likely to work on a fix.

So here's my request: If the delay bothers you, or if you're calling Philips tech support for any other reason, mention it and maybe they'll put out a fix faster (if it's even possible). Thanks!

I have seen literature on the 9630A, but in a local retailer I saw one marked 9630. Does anyone know the difference, if any?

There are a lot of settings within Realplayer and WMP, I would start by tinkering with them to see if you can get the movie to show up. Sorry I don't have a better answer than that. You may also look into what type of external monitor the laptop thinks is hooked up to it. I will try it on mine once I get the correct cable and let you know what happens. Good luck!

I think maybe we just cannot use the VGA port. I tried to connect my laptop to the TV by a s-video cable (M-M). it worked very well. so happy.

I think maybe we just cannot use the VGA port. I tried to connect my laptop to the TV by a s-video cable (M-M). it worked very well. so happy.
I am able to play Quicktime, RealPlayer, and Windows Media Player files fine. I do this because I have a Tivo in my bedroom that is connected to my home network. I also have my laptop connected to my Philips TV. When I feel like watching in the Living Room something that recorded in the bedroom, I use Tivo's Tivo ToGo feature and beam it over to my laptop for presentation on the Philips.

Are you able to play the video files in a minimized window? Does the problem only happen when you go full screen with the video file? I have heard of some video cards rescaling the resolution and changing the refresh rates once a video file is changed to full screen mode. If this is the case, it may be a simple setting in your video card's driver settings. Your computer, when full screen videos are activated, may be outputting at a resolution or refresh rate that the Philips cannot handle.

I have seen literature on the 9630A, but in a local retailer I saw one marked 9630. Does anyone know the difference, if any?

Philips only makes a 9630a model. There is no 9630 model .

Well, I am back once more to my problem: My plasma turns the power off itself sometimes. I mean POWER, as opposed to going to stand-by. It is already in stand-by, then the power is disconnected for a fraction of a second, and it is back in stand-by.

The new thing is that I noticed that it did it THREE times in a row AT about THE SAME TIME(did not check it earlier), 7:43 am. It cannot be just a coincidence.

I don't believe that this TV has a timer which can disconnect the power completely (the keyword), as opposed to going to stand-by.

My most plausible explanation is that there is a power spike at this time, say, something, is powered on at this time somewhere. These can last a few nanoseconds and either TV or my PF60 disconnects the power and reconnects it again. However, it does not affect other gear - dvd-player or electric alarm-clock or vcr or the stb (whichhower sends a message after the power is on that HDMI link is sensed) in the house. Can plasma be more sensitive?

Casey Jones wrote about the power button in somewhat similar case. Can you refer me to this thread please?

My power button does not disconnect the power completely - only on or off to stand-by (the same as all my other TVs).


Its a few pages back. But in a nutshell in reading another thread a member had a similar issue with a panny I believe. Long story short, he had 2 repairs and the problem still wasnt solved. Finally it turned out that the power button on the plasma was sticking . :)

Its a few pages back. But in a nutshell in reading another thread a member had a similar issue with a panny I believe. Long story short, he had 2 repairs and the problem still wasnt solved. Finally it turned out that the power button on the plasma was sticking . :)

Can you refer me to this Panny thread, please? I can't find it.

But I don't think that it is a power button in my case, because it would do it randomly. I have now it 4 times in a row at exactly the same time (I did not check it the days before, though I noticed it in different times too in the past).

It clearly looks like a timer, but timer doing what? It does not turn the tv on or off - just disconnects the power, and connects back on and goes straight to a stand-by.

I would think that the timer would either turn a working tv off, or on to some channel (like a vcr).

Maybe, the cable or power company is sending/doing something at this time?
And, they may do it at different times? Or my neighbor has a ``dirty'' appliance on a timer, sending a spike? (My neighbor does actually have a huge spa, which has a timer and is being repaired many times.)

I am planning to call Adelphia, Avista power company and Philips (don't rely on Philips though - unless I can call to an actual engineer, not to a ``people's skills person'').

:) Can you refer me to this Panny thread, please? I can't find it.

But I don't think that it is a power button in my case, because it would do it randomly. I have now it 4 times in a row at exactly the same time (I did not check it the days before, though I noticed it in different times too in the past).

It clearly looks like a timer, but timer doing what? It does not turn the tv on or off - just disconnects the power, and connects back on and goes straight to a stand-by.

I would think that the timer would either turn a working tv off, or on to some channel (like a vcr).

Maybe, the cable or power company is sending/doing something at this time?
And, they may do it at different times? Or my neighbor has a ``dirty'' appliance on a timer, sending a spike? (My neighbor does actually have a huge spa, which has a timer and is being repaired many times.)

I am planning to call Adelphia, Avista power company and Philips (don't rely on Philips though - unless I can call to an actual engineer, not to a ``people's skills person'').

The thread was about 10 days ago I cant recall the exact number of it but I think it was called ghosts in my plasma or something like that. From what your saying I dont think its the plasma at all. We talked about this numerous times and although it remains a mystery its got to be something that is happening locally in your residence. We talked about electrostatic buildup and going into protection mode also. But you said it wasnt that. You stated before it wasnt the sleep timer so we ruled that out. Did you go into the CSM and look for errors yet? As I recall we talked about that also. If so, were there any noted? If no errors are listed its not the plasma hardware. Keep in mind Philips can only help you if somethings wrong with the sets hardware. Thats why I asked if you went into the CSM. If I recall correctly you live somewhere were the techs wont come out . If so thats a problem.

When you say"It does not turn the tv on or off - just disconnects the power, and connects back on and goes straight to a standby.

A thought might be this, did you ever turn on the EPG? If you did the TV will attempt to download schedule information automatically this may be on a preset timed basis. If you have a pure AV or something similiar you can see this by noting the increase in power the set is using above what it does when off. In any event if you did activate the EPG you need to also go into the sets menu and use the reset to factory defaults as a precaution to make sure its off. I hope this helps some . I'm trying to help but I'm running out of suggestions. If you do come to a conclusion let me know how it worked out. :)

Casey Jones: Thanks for answering and support in my search.

Well, I never went to the service menu - no Guide issue and the protector shows 0 power consumption in the stand-by mode as well.

I don't have the service manual (could not find on the net, the person who offered it in this thread did not respond to my requests). So, even theoretically, I could not run this check-up (plus I have a warranty for 4 yrs 8 m).

Today I disconnected the STB from the wall and this hapenned again at the same time. So, now I ``know'' no cable signal involved either.

Clearly, this ``thing'' involves a clock. My plasma does not have it acting - I don't have the TV connected to the cable (which carries thie time info to maintain the clock).

Thus, most likely the source for my problem is outside of my TV (the surge protector also does not track time). Today, I noticed the drop in voltage by 0.1 at the moment when it happened, which could be an indication of the disturbance in the incoming power (a ``dip''). But also, it can be simply the result of turning on the TV (though it was showing 0 amps, say, my amp when it is turned on shows instantaneous 10.5 amp increase).

It is interesting to investigate. I don't have trust in Philips for something like that: even your example with Panny shows that they did 2 ``repairs'' and could not detect a power button problem- I mean your chances to get a qualified Philips tech are practically zero. (In one of your posts you told us about a positive experience with Philips, but the 10 min figure for the duration of display messages is simply in the manual, I guess they just found it there).

Casey Jones: Thanks for answering and support in my search.

Well, I never went to the service menu - no Guide issue and the protector shows 0 power consumption in the stand-by mode as well.

I don't have the service manual (could not find on the net, the person who offered it in this thread did not respond to my requests). So, even theoretically, I could not run this check-up (plus I have a warranty for 4 yrs 8 m).

Today I disconnected the STB from the wall and this hapenned again at the same time. So, now I ``know'' no cable signal involved either.

Clearly, this ``thing'' involves a clock. My plasma does not have it acting - I don't have the TV connected to the cable (which carries thie time info to maintain the clock).

Thus, most likely the source for my problem is outside of my TV (the surge protector also does not track time). Today, I noticed the drop in voltage by 0.1 at the moment when it happened, which could be an indication of the disturbance in the incoming power (a ``dip''). But also, it can be simply the result of turning on the TV (though it was showing 0 amps, say, my amp when it is turned on shows instantaneous 10.5 amp increase).

It is interesting to investigate. I don't have trust in Philips for something like that: even your example with Panny shows that they did 2 ``repairs'' and could not detect a power button problem- I mean your chances to get a qualified Philips tech are practically zero. (In one of your posts you told us about a positive experience with Philips, but the 10 min figure for the duration of display messages is simply in the manual, I guess they just found it there).


I think an individuals personal experiences with tech service in there local area or the lack there of has alot to do with where you reside geographically. On Long Island we have many qualified techs who are readily available for home visitation and repair. But I would imagine that cant be said for a more rural or remote location regardless of what brand you own. If you have a limited number of techs locally it stands to reason that they would be the ones to repair in home any brand. That positive experience with Philips wasnt about the info they provided, but that they took the time to return a call. :) In todays world that doesnt always happen. Especially for such a minor inquiry as you noted. I know many people locally who have bought Philips products including plasmas over the years. Its there positive experiences that I echo, not just one example. :p

Question for you all regarding the HDMI connection and the internal QAM tuner on the 9630a:

I have my cable line split, one side going directly to the RF input on the 9630a, the other going to a SA 8300HD DVR box from Comcast Cable. I then have a HDMI cable from the DVR to HDMI1 on the 9630a. I used to use component from the DVR, but recently found a good deal on a HDMI cable and upgraded. When I first got the TV I allowed the setup to find whatever channels it could directly off the RF feed. It located many digital stations, including the local HDTV stations. This allowed me, when using the DVR to record two programs at the same time, to use the 9630a's internal QAM tuner to watch a third program, even one in HD. However, since hooking up the HDMI cable I find that the internal tuner only seems to get the analog channels now, except curiously for one digital station, our local FOX HDTV affiliate on channel 213. Everything else in the digital band comes up black screen and no sound. Analog stations still work fine. Anyone have any ideas or explanations? Thanks.

I was wondering if the color of the wall behind the TV has an effect on the ambilight feature. I am shopping for a plasma panel and have been very interested in this unit. The room I will be putting it in is painted red. Will this have a negative effect on the ambilight output? Thanks

I was watching a DVD last night (on AV3 with digital audio) and when it was over attempted to switch back to AV1 (Comcast DVR box). Got a blank screen. Same on TV, or AV2 (VCR). Cable box was on, and I could change its channel, but nothing showed on the TV. Seemed like the input was stuck and would not switch. Pulled plug for about 30 seconds, plugged it back in, and all was fine.

Anyone else seen this happen?

I am having a similar problem. Just picked up the 9630A a few days ago, and the only two devices I have attached are my Comcast HD Cable Box & My HTPC. Both are connected via a DVI ---> HDMI cable that I bought from monoprice.

The problem is with my Computer. I will turn on my TV, switch to HDMI2 for the HTPC, and then turn the computer on. Everything works just fine. The problem comes into when I change the Channel on the TV. In this case, if I switch from the 'puter to HDMI1 and the Cable Box, and then back to the HTPC, I no longer get a video signal from the computer. The only way to get my picture back, is to reboot the computer while HDMI2 is on. If I reboot while watching HDMI1, I still won't see a picture when I change the source back to the computer.

This doesn't seem right. I have the latest firmware and really am kinda annoyed. It kinda makes it impossible to use both the cable & the computer convieniently. I seached through this entire thread, and only found the above quoted person having similar issues. Anyone have any thoughts as to why this is happening? Thanks for your time in advance.

I think an individuals personal experiences with tech service in there local area or the lack there of has alot to do with where you reside geographically. On Long Island we have many qualified techs who are readily available for home visitation and repair. But I would imagine that cant be said for a more rural or remote location regardless of what brand you own. If you have a limited number of techs locally it stands to reason that they would be the ones to repair in home any brand. That positive experience with Philips wasnt about the info they provided, but that they took the time to return a call. :) In todays world that doesnt always happen. Especially for such a minor inquiry as you noted. I know many people locally who have bought Philips products including plasmas over the years. Its there positive experiences that I echo, not just one example. :p

I agree with what you said and I don't blame Phililps, that is, more than any other brand. My personal experience with Philips in terms of reliablity is better than with SONY, JVC and Panasonic. In terms of customer service it is better than the above brands too. I was just saying that in my area I cannot find a tech.

The telephone Philips service (no worse or better than of other brands) service also does not provide help beyond what you can find in the manual. When I call them, they ask the model #, and I can ``hear'' how they look for the manual I have already at hand, and then they start ``helping'' me by reading pieces from it. Then, if there is not match, they say: ``You need a service call - call these guys.'' OK, and ``these guys'' appear do not have even my consumer manual. They have to learn about this model (but they appear do not have any wish), then to call Philips to request a service manual and so on. And all of this ONLY AFTER they already have taken your TV to their service (for their viewing pleasure?) ... Well, you got the picture...

I stated earlier in this thread that I have a copy of the Philips service manual for this TV on my computer. I had downloaded it earlier this summer from the Philips site. Several people have mentioned on this thread that they would like a copy. Others, have sent me private messages requesting the file. I would truly like to give it to you. Unfortunately, the size of this file is preventing me from "getting it out there" for you. The file is 30+ MB. I can't upload it to this forum. I can't E-mail it because it is too big for my E-mail service. If anybody has a suggestion, I'll try something else.

If anybody has a suggestion, I'll try something else.


Can I have a copy?

May I suggest MEGAUPLOAD or YOUSENDIT? If you are able to zip the file you can upload it to one of those sites.

And BTW...

Merry Christmas to all my fellow 9630 owners!

I have the LCD version of this TV. I also experienced the TV shutting itself off. I was home with my son a couple of days ago because he was sick. We were watching several DVD's. This is the longest that I had used this TV in one sitting. It was on for about 3 or 4 hours. All of the sudden it shut off and then turned itself immediately back on. It seemed fine after this. I don't know if it shut off because it was on so long or not. I was running a ceramic space heater at the time. Perhaps this did something with the voltage. I'm not sure if the TV's outlet and the space heater's outlet are on the same circuit or not. I may be hesitant to run both at the same time in the future.

I stated earlier in this thread that I have a copy of the Philips service manual for this TV on my computer. I had downloaded it earlier this summer from the Philips site. Several people have mentioned on this thread that they would like a copy. Others, have sent me private messages requesting the file. I would truly like to give it to you. Unfortunately, the size of this file is preventing me from "getting it out there" for you. The file is 30+ MB. I can't upload it to this forum. I can't E-mail it because it is too big for my E-mail service. If anybody has a suggestion, I'll try something else.


Do you know how to use an FTP server? I can set up an account for you and you can transfer it there. Then I can host it for a while.

I have the LCD version of this TV. I also experienced the TV shutting itself off. I was home with my son a couple of days ago because he was sick. We were watching several DVD's. This is the longest that I had used this TV in one sitting. It was on for about 3 or 4 hours. All of the sudden it shut off and then turned itself immediately back on. It seemed fine after this. I don't know if it shut off because it was on so long or not. I was running a ceramic space heater at the time. Perhaps this did something with the voltage. I'm not sure if the TV's outlet and the space heater's outlet are on the same circuit or not. I may be hesitant to run both at the same time in the future.

It sounds like my problem exactly. Only in my case I had it so far when TV was already in standby and returned back to stand-by. Are you sure that you TV shut itself off? I mean did you see that the green light went off and then back on? Did you hear these 3 clicks?

I my case I was having it at exactly the same time for 5 days in a row (was not home at this time today) and since my TV does not have the clock running, I came to think it was an outside problem, and TV was simply reacting this way for protection. I have my running every day for at least 4-4.5 hrs. (My wife likes to watch Leno and his likes starting from Stewart and Colbert and I normally fall asleep after 15 minute of Leno.)

Do you have a surge protector?

I also want to have a copy of the service manual!

Anyone here compare these two before purchasing? I have narrowed my search to these two models and while I really like the Pio I just cant imagine It's that much better considering the price difference. I really like the looks of the Pio but I don't think I like it that much more. Any input on actual performance an PQ would be greatly appreciated.

I was wondering if the color of the wall behind the TV has an effect on the ambilight feature. I am shopping for a plasma panel and have been very interested in this unit. The room I will be putting it in is painted red. Will this have a negative effect on the ambilight output? Thanks

Negative effect perhaps not. You usually see it against a light color background. But thats not to say yours wont look good. :)

Anyone here compare these two before purchasing? I have narrowed my search to these two models and while I really like the Pio I just cant imagine It's that much better considering the price difference. I really like the looks of the Pio but I don't think I like it that much more. Any input on actual performance an PQ would be greatly appreciated.

Review this thread from the beginning its has alot of info you may be interested in. :)

I have some update for my problem (the TV disconnecting the power by itself for 5 days in a row at the same time): I replaced the PF60 with a different Monster surge protector for the period of time when this power ``loss'' was happening and nothing happened.

From this I derive that it was not my TV that was the cause of this problem - it was in stand-by as usual (good news!, I hope ...). Hence, either the ``hypothetical external power disturbance" did not happen today, or it was the PF60 disconnecting the power during a dangerous deviation of the AC (as it is designed to do - this is a good feature to avoid ``slow frying'' of your plasma), because Monster ht800 I used today is not designed this way, I believe.

Review this thread from the beginning its has alot of info you may be interested in. :)

Casey, I Have been through quite a bit of it and found some very helpful info although I haven't yet found a direct comparison between the two. I have pretty much decided on the Philips.

Thanks!

Casey, I Have been through quite a bit of it and found some very helpful info although I haven't yet found a direct comparison between the two. I have pretty much decided on the Philips.

Thanks!
Your correct. You wont find a comparision in this thread because it 9630a specific. :)

I bought the 42" Philips 42PF7320A about a month ago. I have noticed in black scenes there is discoloration in the lower left coner and a little in the upper left corner where there is a very dark purple-ish color where the rest of the screen is black (for example with the credits at the end of a movie where the entire background is black). I cannot see any discoloration at all in light or medium color scenes. A few weeks ago when I turned on the tv there was a "burst" of black that started at the center and spread out to the edges of the screen; I turned off the tv and turned it back on and it was gone. This only happened once. Could this be burn in or is my tv defective?

I bought the 42" Philips 42PF7320A about a month ago. I have noticed in black scenes there is discoloration in the lower left coner and a little in the upper left corner where there is a very dark purple-ish color where the rest of the screen is black (for example with the credits at the end of a movie where the entire background is black). I cannot see any discoloration at all in light or medium color scenes. A few weeks ago when I turned on the tv there was a "burst" of black that started at the center and spread out to the edges of the screen; I turned off the tv and turned it back on and it was gone. This only happened once. Could this be burn in or is my tv defective?

You should post this in the thread for the 7320a you may get some help there. This thread is for the 9630a model. :)

Your correct. You wont find a comparision in this thread because it 9630a specific. :)

Casey, How much more specific could it be? I'm comparing the 9630A with another model and hopeing that someone here who owns a 9630a may have compared it to the pioneer before they decided on the philips.

Do I need to find a thread specifically comparing these two models?

Anyone here compare these two before purchasing? I have narrowed my search to these two models and while I really like the Pio I just cant imagine It's that much better considering the price difference. I really like the looks of the Pio but I don't think I like it that much more. Any input on actual performance an PQ would be greatly appreciated.

I heard that the very latest Pioneer sets offer a new technology to improve the black level. On the other hand, in the latest Home Theater Magazine the reviewer wrote that 9630a has the best black level they observed with plasmas. Though the review itself is misleading - they only used the component in and disliked some things (also their settings were doubtful - 60 for brightness - it washes some of PQ), so the score was based on this `` obsolete '' type of connections (saying that PPlus is not as good as with the hdmi ins) and features (notably, only one personal setting for all inputs). It is misleading, because 9630 has 2 hdmi ins about which the reviewer just mentioned that with them the PQ is a ``great deal better' (not to mention the cable card option). I use the hdmi ins for the STB and dvd-player, and due to the same type of connections (plus one can make adjustments in the dvd-player) one personal setting was never an issue. I think the Pioneer costs way more?

Thanks for the input. Yes the Pioneer is considerably more and I'm not sure It's worth the difference. I've read many good things about the Philips and while it may not be quite on the level with the Pioneer I think it will do just fine for me.

Thanks for the input. Yes the Pioneer is considerably more and I'm not sure It's worth the difference. I've read many good things about the Philips and while it may not be quite on the level with the Pioneer I think it will do just fine for me.

As long as your recieving a high quality signal you'll have no problem with your picture quality. Thats true of any plasma. I use the HDMI cabling also for my STB and DVD player and the picture quality is simply outrageous. :)

Thanks for the input. Yes the Pioneer is considerably more and I'm not sure It's worth the difference. I've read many good things about the Philips and while it may not be quite on the level with the Pioneer I think it will do just fine for me.

I really really doubt that if it is set correctly (this includes the signal quality, cables, clean power), there is anything out there in plasmas at any price that can beat 9630a. There is something about the way Philips does the color reproduction and overall PQ that other brands cannot achieve (or, rather, they have different understanding what is a good picture). But this might be just a personal perception, which on the other hand is the only thing that really matters.

Of, course, in some separate issues (including customer sevice, features, price, reliablity, and, more generally, all kinds of ``cupholders'') it is not the case.

it washes some of PQ), so the score was based on this `` obsolete '' type of connections (saying that PPlus is not as good as with the hdmi ins) and features (notably, only one personal setting for all inputs). ?
Nothing obsolete about the component input any time soon. It'll be around for years...it just will become the 's-video' of today.

Nothing obsolete about the component input any time soon. It'll be around for years...it just will become the 's-video' of today.

Exactly!

I have the LCD version of this TV. I also experienced the TV shutting itself off. I was home with my son a couple of days ago because he was sick. We were watching several DVD's. This is the longest that I had used this TV in one sitting. It was on for about 3 or 4 hours. All of the sudden it shut off and then turned itself immediately back on. It seemed fine after this. I don't know if it shut off because it was on so long or not. I was running a ceramic space heater at the time. Perhaps this did something with the voltage. I'm not sure if the TV's outlet and the space heater's outlet are on the same circuit or not. I may be hesitant to run both at the same time in the future.


I had a similar problem with mine, I was watching dvds and the tv would reboot in the middle of the dvd. I called Philips and the problem was because my dvd player is progressive scan but I did not have the dvd player set to output prograssive scan since the last tv I had was an old tv. I changed the dvd setup output progressive scan and then set the av input on the tv to HD and did not have a problem after that.

Thank's for the timely response and input, Casey

Adequate sound for regular tv shows is all I expect from all plasma's. That is good to hear. I was asking about the buzzing sound coming from the chassis(cabinet) because when I was at a local Sam's club and turned up the volume of the tv they had on display -not to Loud-which was another model of phillips( it had all silver-no black bezel, probably a model below this one) I noticed a rattle coming from the cabinet during certain sound tones. It is so hard to hear the sound quality of these plasma tv's on display at local stores with all the backround noise in the stores. And I do have the BIG subwoofer for the good stuff!

I don't have a home theater sound system and hoped this set would provide adequate sound for my needs. Unfortunately, I found that there are a few programs (nip/tuck is one) that really pump out the bass tones which caused the buzzing sound you heard in the store. So instead of purchasing a complete sound system, I bought a powered subwoofer and connected it to the "monitor" output. I then used the built in graphic equalizer to turn down the set's bass response, and voila, no buzzing and in general a much richer sound. :D

The only problem is that it seems that the set's mute doesn't effect the monitor output, so I get a muffled sound when I try and mute. Very annoying. Has anyone played with the monitor output? Is there a way to control its levels? I checked the users manual and couldn't find a thing about that output. Or is there another way to connect a subwoofer without having a separate amp in line? Thanks.

i had to use custom resolution to make it fit perfectly

liemydude-
what resolution are you running to the 9630a and how do you have it connected to your htpc?

I am running a nvidia 6600gt to the 9630a via DVI-->HDMI and cannot get the native resolution of 1366x768, the screen comes up black..
i currently have 1280x720 wich does fill the screen but has some overscan the windows start button and the clock in the taskbar are off the edge of the screen.

I have been trying to find a resolution that will work for a while now :)

added..
I was attempting to set the wrong "native" resolution for the 42".... it is 10X7 not 1366X768 :) well i am able to set 1024X768 and it fills the screen nicely, just a little to tall but the horizantal fits perfectly..

Interesting post I found on the 7320a thread:

Originally Posted by bdjeep
I've had this TV for a few weeks now and I've noticed that it makes a clicking noise (the same as when the set is turned on with the remote) at around 8am every day. This display does not light up and the set makes another clicking noise about a minute later (as if to power down). Has anyone else noticed this? What exactly is it doing? (calling the mothership?) Everything else works perfectly and I've had no other problems with the set.



Calling the Mothership? Yes it actually does....well sorta...

Here's what the printed manual says - part# 3104 315 2470.1 (pg. 14 notes):

ATSC channel information is updated automatically when the TV is in standby (after 3 minutes AND every 3 hours thereafter)

The TV's standby power consumption is less than 1 watt while in standby. Which is not enough power to power the ATSC tuner, so the TV ATSC tuner section is turned on briefly to update the channel information. That's the clicking noise your hearing.

Cheers

__________________

I used to have this problem also. In the middle of watching a program the TV would turn itself off and back on instantly. It happened a few times and my brother insisted that I buy a a better surge protector. I ended up buying the Monster Stage 2 power center. I am happy to report that since I plugged everything into this, I have not had this problem (over a month now). It is definitely a power supply issue and the TV is going through the motion to protect itself, I think. Not a bad thing but definitely worth the cost to prevent any future problems.

Interesting post I found on the 7320a thread:

Originally Posted by bdjeep
I've had this TV for a few weeks now and I've noticed that it makes a clicking noise (the same as when the set is turned on with the remote) at around 8am every day. This display does not light up and the set makes another clicking noise about a minute later (as if to power down). Has anyone else noticed this? What exactly is it doing? (calling the mothership?) Everything else works perfectly and I've had no other problems with the set.



Calling the Mothership? Yes it actually does....well sorta...

Here's what the printed manual says - part# 3104 315 2470.1 (pg. 14 notes):

ATSC channel information is updated automatically when the TV is in standby (after 3 minutes AND every 3 hours thereafter)

The TV's standby power consumption is less than 1 watt while in standby. Which is not enough power to power the ATSC tuner, so the TV ATSC tuner section is turned on briefly to update the channel information. That's the clicking noise your hearing.

Cheers

__________________

That is exactly my problem! I wrote about it a lot. But it is happening not every 3 hours bit once a day, though it is a pluasible explanation!

I used to have this problem also. In the middle of watching a program the TV would turn itself off and back on instantly. It happened a few times and my brother insisted that I buy a a better surge protector. I ended up buying the Monster Stage 2 power center. I am happy to report that since I plugged everything into this, I have not had this problem (over a month now). It is definitely a power supply issue and the TV is going through the motion to protect itself, I think. Not a bad thing but definitely worth the cost to prevent any future problems.

It is another plaussible explanation - I also wrote about it. But My PF60 surge protector does anot stop this thing (it itself is suppose to discontinue the power), while Monster stage 1 does or, maybe, simply weakens it or it is not a TV - as in my case it is when it is in stand-by.

Calling the Mothership? Yes it actually does....well sorta...

Here's what the printed manual says - part# 3104 315 2470.1 (pg. 14 notes):

ATSC channel information is updated automatically when the TV is in standby (after 3 minutes AND every 3 hours thereafter)

The TV's standby power consumption is less than 1 watt while in standby. Which is not enough power to power the ATSC tuner, so the TV ATSC tuner section is turned on briefly to update the channel information. That's the clicking noise your hearing.


Thanks for the info. At least I now I know there's nothing wrong with the clicking noise.

In reviewing these threads i can only find tilt style wall mounts. Does anyone have info on flat low profile mounts that actually fit the 9630???

If you use those how will you access the inputs on the rear?

In reviewing these threads i can only find tilt style wall mounts. Does anyone have info on flat low profile mounts that actually fit the 9630???

You can use the Sanus VMPL2b, or VMPL2s with the VMB1b adapter.

You can use the Sanus VMPL2b, or VMPL2s with the VMB1b adapter.
THANKS FOR THE INFO.

Anyone help shed some light...?

Quick question regarding the Philips 630A, does it have the regular Ambient Light or Ambient Light 2? Thanks in advance~

Anyone help shed some light...?

Quick question regarding the Philips 630A, does it have the regular Ambient Light or Ambient Light 2? Thanks in advance~
just the regular. however, if you explore a few threads back there is a hack for the ambient 2

go to page 16 that will tell you how to set your 9630a to ambient 2

If you use those how will you access the inputs on the rear?
it may be a challenge...i just don't like it 5" out from the wall.

just the regular. however, if you explore a few threads back there is a hack for the ambient 2


Not really much of a hack, since its in the DFU.

If you use those how will you access the inputs on the rear?
Thats exactly why I mounted mine using the omnimount tiltmount U3 its 2 5/8 inches off the wall. :)

Not really much of a hack, since its in the DFU.

It's my understanding that Ambilight 2 is not factory available with this model. It needs to be turned on in the service menu. By the way whats DFU?

It's my understanding that Ambilight 2 is not factory available with this model. It needs to be turned on in the service menu. By the way whats DFU?

Yeh, what is DFU? Sorry for the ignorance...Im new tothe HD TV scene. I've been doing some research lately looking for a practical 42-50" plasma.

Anyone know how to get the TV to only display Blue to simplify color calibration with Avia?

Secondly, has anyone had their display professionally calibrated? If so, what is your contrast set at?

The H and V inputs are specific for RGBHV connections. Remember older computer monitors that would use a cable with VGA (HD-15 pin connector) on one end and 5 seperate color coded cables on the other end (typically with BNC connectors)? You can use an SVGA to 5 RCA cable to connect your computer to the TV. That is what I am doing now. My current setup is:

SA8300HD DVR via HDMI-HDMI
Toshiba Upconverting DVD Player via HDMI-HDMI
Dell D600 Laptop and docking station via SVGA to 5 RCA (Steren Cable) on AV1

You can still use the more common 3 ended component cable to input into AV1 for other sources.

PS Sorry for the late response... I haven't been getting my AVSForum email updates :rolleyes:

PPS I have an extra set of new SVGA to 5 RCA Steren cables if anyone is interested in hooking up their PC via AV1.

rolento

Is this the best way to connect laptop to TV. Howz the display in your setup? How much is this Steren cable costs?

How about connecting VGA to DVI adapter to laptop and then connecting DVI to HDMI cable to TV?

Thanks.

rolento

Is this the best way to connect laptop to TV. Howz the display in your setup? How much is this Steren cable costs?

How about connecting VGA to DVI adapter to laptop and then connecting DVI to HDMI cable to TV?

Thanks.
It is the best way for my situation as I hardly use the computer on the TV unless I want to watch something transferred off my TiVo and onto the computer from another room. I like to reserve my HDMI inputs for the more often used components (Cable Box and DVD Player).

The display via the SVGA to RGBHV cable looks great. I can only get the 1024 x 768 native resolution as advertised on Philips site. This makes it a pillar-boxed view but then I have the aspect ratio on automatic so it fills the screen. The Steren cable can cost anywhere from $9 to $60 depending on the length.

If you want to use the HDMI inputs for your computer, I would suggest a computer that has a native DVI port to preserve the digital-to-digital connection. Converting VGA (Analog) to DVI may have adverse effects. I haven't tried this setup but I am sure others in this forum may have. Hopefully they will respond.

It is the best way for my situation as I hardly use the computer on the TV unless I want to watch something transferred off my TiVo and onto the computer from another room. I like to reserve my HDMI inputs for the more often used components (Cable Box and DVD Player).

The display via the SVGA to RGBHV cable looks great. I can only get the 1024 x 768 native resolution as advertised on Philips site. This makes it a pillar-boxed view but then I have the aspect ratio on automatic so it fills the screen. The Steren cable can cost anywhere from $9 to $60 depending on the length.

If you want to use the HDMI inputs for your computer, I would suggest a computer that has a native DVI port to preserve the digital-to-digital connection. Converting VGA (Analog) to DVI may have adverse effects. I haven't tried this setup but I am sure others in this forum may have. Hopefully they will respond.

Thanks for your advice rolento.

You mentioned that you have an extra Steren cable. What's the length and how much it will cost me?

Thanks.

Thanks for your advice rolento.

You mentioned that you have an extra Steren cable. What's the length and how much it will cost me?

Thanks.
Sorry, I actually sold my extra cable recently. I am currently using a 6-foot cable. This is the link to purchase the cable. http://www.digitalconnection.com/products/Cables/SCVM5R.asp

It's my understanding that Ambilight 2 is not factory available with this model. It needs to be turned on in the service menu. By the way whats DFU?

From a forum search, it appears to stand for "Directions For Use." I guess the user's manual.

Just bought my 9630a yesterday... excited. :)

Something I just found out, and I don't know if it is common knowledge on this TV, is viewing PIP. Quite awile ago in this thread I saw someone say that they have to be using the Digital HDMI connection for PIP. Well I don't have any HDMI yet, but I do have just standard cable plugged in. When the TV is on a digital channel like 81.9, the second payne can contain something on an analog signal, but if the TV is tuned to an analog station, like 13, then nothing will show for the PIP second screen. So it seems one of the screens must be digital, then the other can be anything else.

And congrats to JVOLKMAN on his purchase. I just finished mounting mine above my fireplace and it looks great!.

Thats exactly why I mounted mine using the omnimount tiltmount U3 its 2 5/8 inches off the wall.
Hey Casey,I'm planning on hanging mine soon,could you tell me what brand that mount is? Can I get it at Best Buy? Also,do I have to wait to get the mount bracket to figure out where to put the new electrical outlet?
Another thing I'm wondering is how do most of you run your wires to the cable box & DVD player.Do you just run them down inside the wall and come out down low and put the boxes on a piece of furniture or something?
Thanks for any tips or info on this. :)

Hey Casey,I'm planning on hanging mine soon,could you tell me what brand that mount is? Can I get it at Best Buy? Also,do I have to wait to get the mount bracket to figure out where to put the new electrical outlet?
Another thing I'm wondering is how do most of you run your wires to the cable box & DVD player.Do you just run them down inside the wall and come out down low and put the boxes on a piece of furniture or something?
Thanks for any tips or info on this. :)

If you go to this forum (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=566931&page=2&pp=30), I have pics and tips for how I hung mine and ran my wiring.

Do you know how to use an FTP server? I can set up an account for you and you can transfer it there. Then I can host it for a while.

Kaliman,

I received your private message and uploaded the file to your FTP site. Sorry I didn't reply sooner. Been busy with the holidays and only read your message tonight.

Thanks.

Kaliman,

I received your private message and uploaded the file to your FTP site. Sorry I didn't reply sooner. Been busy with the holidays and only read your message tonight.

Thanks.

If anyone is interested in the service manual for the:

42PF7320A/37
42PF9630A/37
42PF9730A/37
50PF7320A/37
50PF9630A/37

Please send me a PM and I will send you the link.

If you go to this forum, I have pics and tips for how I hung mine and ran my wiring.
jes,nice set-up!The vacuum hose hook up is a great idea,duh,why did'nt I think of that,lol.
I guess you took the side pics before you wired up,I don't see any wires there,it can't be that clean looking,right?
Great job!

Hey Casey,I'm planning on hanging mine soon,could you tell me what brand that mount is? Can I get it at Best Buy? Also,do I have to wait to get the mount bracket to figure out where to put the new electrical outlet?
Another thing I'm wondering is how do most of you run your wires to the cable box & DVD player.Do you just run them down inside the wall and come out down low and put the boxes on a piece of furniture or something?
Thanks for any tips or info on this. :)

I bought my Omnimount at CC. Got a good price with a discount off MSRP. I have a small audio cabinet under my wall mounted plasma. I used conduit available at Home Depot and wallpapered it to match my walls. My outlet was in place allready so I didnt need to have one installed. :)

jes,nice set-up!The vacuum hose hook up is a great idea,duh,why did'nt I think of that,lol.
I guess you took the side pics before you wired up,I don't see any wires there,it can't be that clean looking,right?
Great job!

If your referring to the side pictures of the TV after it was hung, the wiring was done at that time. The wires are behind the TV and go into the wall from the behind. With the first set of pictures with just the wall mount, no wiring was done at that point.

Good luck with your project. If I can do it, you can do it. I'm usually terrible at home projects.

I bought my Omnimount at CC. Got a good price with a discount off MSRP. I have a small audio cabinet under my wall mounted plasma. I used conduit available at Home Depot and wallpapered it to match my walls. My outlet was in place allready so I didnt need to have one installed.
Casey,thanks for the info:)Wow,you were lucky to have that outlet in the right spot,I think thats gonna be the worst part of it,lol...

If your referring to the side pictures of the TV after it was hung, the wiring was done at that time. The wires are behind the TV and go into the wall from the behind.
Hi jes,thanks for the reply.So you have 2 boxes in the wall behind the T.V.,one for the cables,and one for power,right?I see on your pic of the vac hose that you have the mounting template on the wall,I guess you can't do any wiring til' you have the template?I know that seems obvious,but it's gonna be a little while before I get the bracket,and was wondering if I could get something done,as far as wiring,beforehand.
Thanks again guys :)

jes,on second look at your pic of the wall mount,I see only one box.What am I missing here?The power cord from the 9630A is'nt long enough to go through the wall,down and out again with the rest of the cables,is it?
One other thing I just thought about is if you put a new electrical outlet behind the T.V. and plug into that,how do you hook up to the surge protector?

Casey,if I had wallpaper,I might try that trick with the conduit,but I just re-painted my walls and I think that would stand out too much.
Sorry for the "20 Questions",does anyone know of a link to a diagram or something on how to wire this up so I won't have to bother you guys anymore?
:o :) Thanks

Got everything up and mounted today. :) Since I live in an apartment, I had to use wire molding instead of tearing up the walls. Luckily I found some molding that matched the wall color pretty well. Ambilight is a great effect when these are wall mounted -- everyone really loves it. :)

The only negative right now is that I found a small scratch near the top of the protective glass screen. :mad: It's barely noticable wit the TV off, and unnoticable with it on, but still..

Attaching some pics..

First time poster here-
Could anyone tell me the dimensions of the box the TV came in? I haven't been able to find it anywhere.

Quite large, I've got one waiting for me in a store near Atlanta, or wait another week or more for it to get where I'm at.

Lenght: 53"
Width: 14"
Height 37.5"

Wish I'd known that before I brought my Eclipse 60+ miles out of my way and back. :mad:

Rain, one neighbor with flu, other MIA, best friend MIA and no delivery until tomorrow (which is what I'd like today, as I've got all day...arugh).

Quite large, I've got one waiting for me in a store near Atlanta, or wait another week or more for it to get where I'm at.

Lenght: 53"
Width: 14"
Height 37.5"

Wish I'd known that before I brought my Eclipse 60+ miles out of my way and back. :mad:

Rain, one neighbor with flu, other MIA, best friend MIA and no delivery until tomorrow (which is what I'd like today, as I've got all day...arugh).


I remember when I picked mine up at Sears I figured it would fit in the back of my Subaru - which it would have laying down. But Sears would have made me sign a waiver if I laid the box down, its supposed to stay straight up. So I went and grabbed a friends van - didn't want to ruin the warranty on day one.

jes,on second look at your pic of the wall mount,I see only one box.What am I missing here?The power cord from the 9630A is'nt long enough to go through the wall,down and out again with the rest of the cables,is it?
One other thing I just thought about is if you put a new electrical outlet behind the T.V. and plug into that,how do you hook up to the surge protector?


Well John C. you caught me red-handed, so I must make a full confession. I am running the TV's power cord through the vacuum hose conduit. Now, before everybody makes a thousand posts telling me how horrible this is, let me say the following in my defense:


Now that the hubbub of the holidays is over, I am planning to have an electrician come and install a proper outlet behind the TV "just to be safe".
That said, in my opinion, running the power cord through a conduit is no worse than hiding it with track molding (which a lot of people do) or having it sprawled all over the carpet behind the TV with all of the other cables.
I have noticed no interference from the power cord. TV's picture and sound is great.


About the surge protector. The BB salesman told me that there is a surge protector that they sell for wall mounted TV's that works with an outlet behind the TV. He didn't have one in stock to show me, however, they do exist. I will be looking into this.

WHAT WOULD YOU DO AND WHY?

Am ready to take the plunge and pick up a PDP. for the exact $xxx I can choose between the current Philips 42" Ambilight or the much beloved Vizio 50.

Pros of Philips:
Ambilight is cool
Philips has more features - tuner, cable card, memory slots
Philips has anti-ageing circuit
42" may be a better fit in the room (seating 10' from screen)
Good local retailer delivers and installs
Philips is more likely to be around in x years

Pros of Vizio:
Reportedly gorgeous, huge display
See above
Great bargain
Vizio seems to be responsive
Costco awesome return policy
Bigger is better (hey I'm a dude)

How would you resolve this?

Thanks for the input

jvolkman,nice pics,beautiful set-up!
The only negative right now is that I found a small scratch near the top of the protective glass screen. It's barely noticable wit the TV off, and unnoticable with it on, but still.
I'm usually too easygoing with stuff like that,my wife would !!FREAK!! :eek:
Well John C. you caught me red-handed, so I must make a full confession.
Lol,sorry man,I did'nt mean to "out" you!Yea,I agree, it's not too different than running in a moulding,except for those pesky "code" issues. :p
I am planning to have an electrician come
That's at least one thing I have a leg up on,my brother-inlaw is an electrician! :D
But it took over a year to get my new bathroom wired! :(
sprawled all over the carpet behind the TV with all of the other cables.
Hehe,that's why I asked if it was long enough,I did'nt want to untangle that mess behind my T.V. to measure it! :o
About the surge protector. The BB salesman told me that there is a surge protector that they sell for wall mounted TV's that works with an outlet behind the TV. He didn't have one in stock to show me, however, they do exist. I will be looking into this.
Yea,I never thought about that until yesterday.If anyone has that set-up,with the outlet behind the wall mounted panel,in conjunction with a surge protector,we'd love to see a picture or an explanation of how that works.
Thanks jes :)

Sorry jdef,I'm not familiar with the Vizio,But I dowish my Philips was a 50",it was only a thousand more! :eek: