I have had the 42PF9630A for a month now, and tried connecting it directly to the cable to see how many analog and digital channels it could pull in without the cable box (a Comcast DCT6412-III). The channel search and setup menu took about 25 minutes to set everything up and go back to "normal" viewing operation. Well, the setup screen (especially the Philips logo) was still visible for a minute or two after exiting that menu! I keep the brightness and color at 50% and the contrast at 70%. I assume that I saw image retention as opposed to image burn-in? In addition, after all that trouble, the HDMI connection out of the cable box produced a better picture than the direct cable connection. Has anyone else tried that experiment and gotten similar (or different) results?

I had an issue creep up and was wondering if anyone had any insight. The other day I was connecting a sony dvd player to my 9630, so I switched my cable box over to HDMI, which worked fine. But then I went to connect the DVD player using the component input that the cable previously occupied, and was unable to get sound through the digital coaxial. I made sure the digital audio was on the correct input in the menu and everything. Then, when I tried to switch back to the cable box input, the picture was MUCH darker. I tried plugging the cable box back into component as it originally was but the picture was still very dark. My contrast and brightness levels had previously been around 42-45 and looked perfect that way. When I jacked the levels up to the mid-50's the picture looked normal again. I am less worried about getting sound out of my dvd player but I was wondering if anyone could explain this sudden drop in brightness??

I actually figured out what was up with the darkness. I was just messing with the settings and turned the active control down to either minimum or off. Not sure how this got changed in the first place but it seemed to do the trick. Still can't get sound through my dvd player with component/digital audio out. Tried changing all the sound settings through the player itself with no luck. Got sound through the cable box fine using the digital coaxial. If anyone has any ideas about this your input would be greatly appreciated! :D

I have had the 42PF9630A for a month now, and tried connecting it directly to the cable to see how many analog and digital channels it could pull in without the cable box (a Comcast DCT6412-III). The channel search and setup menu took about 25 minutes to set everything up and go back to "normal" viewing operation. Well, the setup screen (especially the Philips logo) was still visible for a minute or two after exiting that menu! I keep the brightness and color at 50% and the contrast at 70%. I assume that I saw image retention as opposed to image burn-in? In addition, after all that trouble, the HDMI connection out of the cable box produced a better picture than the direct cable connection. Has anyone else tried that experiment and gotten similar (or different) results?
I have my cable split before the cable DVR with one feed going directly into the TV. I do this in case I need to watch something live while my DVR is busy recording two shows simultaneously. My TV discovered roughly 200+ analog and digital channels. The only difficulty is deciphering which channel is which because of the arbitrary channel numbering carried over direct cable connections. The picture quality over the direct connection as compared to my DVR seems the same.

You were probably feeling the effects of image retention that will go away. Burn in would require a more abusive approach than a 25 minute channel search.

I actually figured out what was up with the darkness. I was just messing with the settings and turned the active control down to either minimum or off. Not sure how this got changed in the first place but it seemed to do the trick. Still can't get sound through my dvd player with component/digital audio out. Tried changing all the sound settings through the player itself with no luck. Got sound through the cable box fine using the digital coaxial. If anyone has any ideas about this your input would be greatly appreciated! :D
Did you ever have sound working from the DVD player? What is your sound setup now (TV speakers or HT Receiver)?

Did you ever have sound working from the DVD player? What is your sound setup now (TV speakers or HT Receiver)?

The DVD player used to be my father's but he bought a new DVD recorder so I sort of inherited it. He had it connected to his old non-HD Sony Trinitron through the plain old composite connection and got sound fine. If I remember correctly the DVD player is a Sony DVP-NS425A or something similar to that. It's probably about a year old. Right now I am not using any HT system. I am just getting sound through the HDMI for cable, and through the component for my PS2. The sound worked fine through the digital audio when I had it connected to the cable box before I switched to HDMI. It just doesn't wanna come through for the DVD player. Any thoughts?

Hi,

Just wanted to ask if someone else is also experiencing the picture quality issue that I have.

On darker scenes or scenes where there iare lot of shadows, the shadows don't show black color but instead show maroon color (dark blackish red). For example someone's face shadow on their neck should be either gray or black but comes out as Maroon in color.

I have tried adjusting the brightness and contrast but that did not help.

Thanks.

Just in case anyone else expering the same problem:

Problem was solved by replacing the Small Signal Board.

I think many of us here in the forum have experienced the occasional unwarranted shut down and restart of the TV but not many that have reported flashing red lights afterwards. Flashing red lights can be indicative of hardware problems. You may want to check the error codes in the service menu, or simply return the unit for a new one.

As for HDCP, I used to have a problem with the TV completing the handshake with my cable box (Scientific Atlanta 8300HD). But that problem went away for me when I updated the firmware, and this was back in September (after 1 month of ownership). Now, I only experience a quick flicker when changing from an SD channel to an HD channel, and no flicker when I am changing from an HD channel to an HD channel.


Yes thankyou, that was most importantly what I wanted to verify, that this did warrant exchanging for a newe unit being that it was brand new and did the black screen thing with flashing red led and also got the solid green screen i've seen mentioned at one point or 2 as well as some other haywireness on the screen.

So I am exchanging for new and just wanted to make sure that was the best thing to do as I though since it did it first thing. As far as flicker between SD to HD chan i know that is normal from other hdtvs and the hdcp doesn't always happen and i know how to fix it and sure comcast might be able to do something to make that happen less or not at all as well it shouldn't been when they eventually switch tivo boxes instead of Motorola as quoted from teh Philips website they say its mostly Moto and Pace boxes.

as far as checking error code in service menu i dont know how to do that or if it will show any error code now but I will eventually want to learn how to acces the service menu as well supposedly the pattern the red led flashes in which I believe for me was 5 slow flashes followed by 3 quick or vice versa but again I think since it was brand new the best thing is to exchange for a different new unit.

thanks again.

Just in case anyone else expering the same problem:

Problem was solved by replacing the Small Signal Board.


i think i kind of had this problem and surprised that it is the signal board not just a setting but luckily i'm exchaning mine for a new unit for other problems

I think many of us here in the forum have experienced the occasional unwarranted shut down and restart of the TV but not many that have reported flashing red lights afterwards. Flashing red lights can be indicative of hardware problems. You may want to check the error codes in the service menu, or simply return the unit for a new one.



I had the flashing red light problem on the first set I had and it was a result of a bad power supply.

I was wondering if anyone has had issues with the Automatic screen feature when watching sports?

Sometimes when I am watching hockey on Over the Air Digital channels it will be at full screen then shrink down and then go back after a few seconds. It does not do it all the time but I was just curious if anyone else has seen this. Is it something that the auto feature sees on the screen that causes this or could it also be issues in the Digital signal?

thanks
Mark

I have had a 50pf9630A/37 for a few months and am just getting around to considering wall mounting it. Does the distance from the wall affect how well Ambilight works? Also, there have been a number of positive remarks about the Omnimount u3-t. I went to look at Omnimount's website, and it shows in the product descriptions, but when you go to purchase it, it seems to be a discontinued product. I tried Crutchfield, but they don't sell it either. There are a bunch of people selling it on ebay, and CC has something that looks like it but I can't be sure (and seems priced near retail).

Is there an alternative to the u3 for a good tilt mount for the philips? Also, does the tilting (in addition to the wall distance) affect how well the ambilight works?

[QUOTE=RoadRashTX]I was wondering if anyone has had issues with the Automatic screen feature when watching sports?

Sometimes when I am watching hockey on Over the Air Digital channels it will be at full screen then shrink down and then go back after a few seconds. It does not do it all the time but I was just curious if anyone else has seen this. Is it something that the auto feature sees on the screen that causes this or could it also be issues in the Digital signal?

thanks
Mark[/QUOTE

Thats not an issue with the automatic function at all. Automatic functions based on the signal detected from your source .

Will SD channels look differently -- aspect-wise, with bars on the side -- if you use an HDMI (or DVI) from the cable box to the Philips as opposed to component cables ?

If so, why ?

I was wondering if anyone has had issues with the Automatic screen feature when watching sports?

Sometimes when I am watching hockey on Over the Air Digital channels it will be at full screen then shrink down and then go back after a few seconds. It does not do it all the time but I was just curious if anyone else has seen this. Is it something that the auto feature sees on the screen that causes this or could it also be issues in the Digital signal?

thanks
Mark

Yeah I have this happen often too but I thought it was the digital STB as my wife thought the new comcast hdmi dvr box did that on another tv but i think she was mistaken and it is the tv and something to do with the auto screen feature.

its annoying and i hate when the guide is small and in middle of screen only.

Yeah I have this happen often too but I thought it was the digital STB as my wife thought the new comcast hdmi dvr box did that on another tv but i think she was mistaken and it is the tv and something to do with the auto screen feature.

its annoying and i hate when the guide is small and in middle of screen only.

Isn't this on the broadcasters end? Sounds like what happens when they switch to commercials, except this is duing the game and the glitch goes back to normal within a few seconds. Right ?

I'm interested in purchasing this TV refurbished and after reading the thread, it's a little scary. But for the price there and from the quality of customer service I've read about, if things were to go wrong, I'm definitely leaning towards buying that and an extended 3 year warranty.

If I buy refurbished, do you all think that this black screen problem was most likely addressed/fixed?

Seems like a great TV otherwise, picture quality, inputs, etc. Any opinions? :)

I'm interested in purchasing this TV refurbished and after reading the thread, it's a little scary. But for the price there and from the quality of customer service I've read about, if things were to go wrong, I'm definitely leaning towards buying that and an extended 3 year warranty.

If I buy refurbished, do you all think that this black screen problem was most likely addressed/fixed?

Seems like a great TV otherwise, picture quality, inputs, etc. Any opinions? :)

Why not wait for the new model? it's due around July, and it's bound to have improved features. The expected list price I've seen is about what the current model has been going for retail. One new feature is Ambilight on all four sides.

Why not wait for the new model? it's due around July, and it's bound to have improved features. The expected list price I've seen is about what the current model has been going for retail. One new feature is Ambilight on all four sides.

Well from electronicsnation I can get it for substantially lower price with 3 yr warranty tacked on, compared to a normal retail store. Am i thinking too much with my wallet? And Ambilight on 2 sides would be just fine :)

Why not wait for the new model? it's due around July, and it's bound to have improved features. The expected list price I've seen is about what the current model has been going for retail. One new feature is Ambilight on all four sides.

If he is getting refurbished then obviously he is trying to save on the price and I doubt would want the new model brand new and expensive.

The thing to do is to get the old version as close to when the new comes out as possible to get best price. I couldn't wait any longer and got at what i think is a good price and it has since gone done a little more. might not much more and they'll just sell remaing stock of the old one.

As far as i read it was just the 50 in. version coming out in July and for 4,000 so hardly same price.

I thought about the 50 but the 42 is already so heavy, mounting the 50 on the back panel of this piece of furniture i'm mounting it on though meant to mount a plasma i'm afraid would rip it down or the wall if you do that. plus the wall isn't that wide between 2 doors and with teh speakers the 42 is wide enough to the point where I have a small but decent amount of space to reflect teh ambilights off the white background but the 50 wont have any room on sides.

I like the idea of ambilights on top and bottom to make the screen look higher as its already wide enough looking with teh speakers and being a widescreen then the lights so yean

but the pics i saw of teh ambilight on all 4 sides looks too boxed in and enclosed but if you can turn on just top and bottom and the sides off tht would be cool.

i'll wait to get the new one when the new model after that is about to come out and hopefully the 50 is lighter so i can go up in size but with ambilight on top and bottom now i bet its actually heavier.

Well from electronicsnation I can get it for substantially lower price with 3 yr warranty tacked on, compared to a normal retail store. Am i thinking too much with my wallet? And Ambilight on 2 sides would be just fine :)

If you're comfortable with the warranty, I guess it's alright. I just never buy refurbished. The only things I ever bought used were a 1948 Buick convertible and an M1 rifle. :)

New Software if anybody is interested. I was excited and made a new thread, but nobody responded. It is working great for me, Finally fixes the volume bar!

http://flattv.philips.com/2k5Upgrade

New Software if anybody is interested. I was excited and made a new thread, but nobody responded. It is working great for me, Finally fixes the volume bar!

http://flattv.philips.com/2k5Upgrade

BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461
Following improvements are made:
• solution for sudden popup of menu or disfunctioning of keys on the television
• improved robustness in POD behavior
• improvements for playback of some specific streams not following standards.
• based upon customer feedback: the permanent channel nr is not displayed anymore when OSD is put to normal, this enables the customer to have the volume bar without permanent channel numbers

Interesting... where did you find out about this?
Only the previous version BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441 is listed on the Philips US site.
http://www.consumer.philips.com/consumer/catalog/catalog.jsp?fhquery=fh_secondid%3D42pf7320a_37_us_consumer%2 6fh_start_index%3D0%26fh_location%3D%2F%2Fconsumer%2Fen_US%2 Fcategories%3Ccatalog_us_consumer%2Fcategories%3Ctv_gr_us_co nsumer%2Fcategories%3Cflat_tv_ca_us_consumer%26&productId=42PF7320A_37_US_CONSUMER&activeCategory=TV_GR_US_CONSUMER&fredhopperpage=detail.jsp&language=en&country=US&catalogType=CONSUMER&proxybuster=HRCDWKIEUAGR3J0RMRCSHQVHKFSESI5P

hey I'm considering a Philips Plasmas & was wondering if I could get some advice from owners

I'm looking into the Philips 42PF9630A/37 at circuit city & the price looks good, but the model seems to have been out for a while now.
Is it still up to date with the rest of the newer models coming out or is there signs of aging alreday?

so how what problems quirks or have been found with the panel?

BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461
Following improvements are made:
• solution for sudden popup of menu or disfunctioning of keys on the television
• improved robustness in POD behavior
• improvements for playback of some specific streams not following standards.
• based upon customer feedback: the permanent channel nr is not displayed anymore when OSD is put to normal, this enables the customer to have the volume bar without permanent channel numbers

Interesting... where did you find out about this?
Only the previous version BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441 is listed on the Philips US site.
http://www.consumer.philips.com/consumer/catalog/catalog.jsp?fhquery=fh_secondid%3D42pf7320a_37_us_consumer%2 6fh_start_index%3D0%26fh_location%3D%2F%2Fconsumer%2Fen_US%2 Fcategories%3Ccatalog_us_consumer%2Fcategories%3Ctv_gr_us_co nsumer%2Fcategories%3Cflat_tv_ca_us_consumer%26&productId=42PF7320A_37_US_CONSUMER&activeCategory=TV_GR_US_CONSUMER&fredhopperpage=detail.jsp&language=en&country=US&catalogType=CONSUMER&proxybuster=HRCDWKIEUAGR3J0RMRCSHQVHKFSESI5P

Interesting. The channel number was never displayed permanently with the volume bar when the OSD was selected as normal . What was displayed is the connection type above the volume bar ie. HDMI etc. :)

hey I'm considering a Philips Plasmas & was wondering if I could get some advice from owners I'm looking into the Philips 42PF9630A/37 at circuit city & the price looks good, but the model seems to have been out for a while now.Is it still up to date with the rest of the newer models coming out or is there signs of aging alreday? so how what problems quirks or have been found with the panel?

Read this thread in it's entirety, read the USER thread on the Philips 9630, and check out HomeTheater's review in December 2005.

BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461
Following improvements are made:
• solution for sudden popup of menu or disfunctioning of keys on the television
• improved robustness in POD behavior
• improvements for playback of some specific streams not following standards.
• based upon customer feedback: the permanent channel nr is not displayed anymore when OSD is put to normal, this enables the customer to have the volume bar without permanent channel numbers

Interesting... where did you find out about this?
Only the previous version BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441 is listed on the Philips US site.
http://www.consumer.philips.com/consumer/catalog/catalog.jsp?fhquery=fh_secondid%3D42pf7320a_37_us_consumer%2 6fh_start_index%3D0%26fh_location%3D%2F%2Fconsumer%2Fen_US%2 Fcategories%3Ccatalog_us_consumer%2Fcategories%3Ctv_gr_us_co nsumer%2Fcategories%3Cflat_tv_ca_us_consumer%26&productId=42PF7320A_37_US_CONSUMER&activeCategory=TV_GR_US_CONSUMER&fredhopperpage=detail.jsp&language=en&country=US&catalogType=CONSUMER&proxybuster=HRCDWKIEUAGR3J0RMRCSHQVHKFSESI5P

It was posted by someone in the 50PF7220 thread. I poke around in all the Philips threads because they seem to have similar behavior, and noticed the link.

As for HDCP, I used to have a problem with the TV completing the handshake with my cable box (Scientific Atlanta 8300HD). But that problem went away for me when I updated the firmware, and this was back in September (after 1 month of ownership). Now, I only experience a quick flicker when changing from an SD channel to an HD channel, and no flicker when I am changing from an HD channel to an HD channel.

That is very interesting! I have the SA 8300HD too, and the latest firmware for the 9630 as posted at Philips. But I get several seconds of handshaking static when going from SD to HD (screen goes total snow, flashing between that and blackness two to five times before the picture comes up). Could it be the firmware in the SA 8300HD? I don't think we are at 1.88.XX version yet. I've just been living with this, thinking it was normal for HDCP, but it would be nice if it was gone (my wife HATES it so much she hardly ever uses HD channels!!!). It didn't happen with component of course, but I'd really rather use the HDMI connection.

This is the thread for the 42" plasma flat HDTV Pixel Plus 2 HD 42PF9630A/37. Please don't tell us there are recalls or firmware updates for this TV when it's for other models.

they all use the same firmware.

New Software if anybody is interested. I was excited and made a new thread, but nobody responded. It is working great for me, Finally fixes the volume bar!

http://flattv.philips.com/2k5Upgrade


It concerns me that this upgrade appears to be about 2 megs smaller than earlier upgrades. Is this actually meant for this model (42pf9630a/37)? Might we lose some things, like maybe the stereo ambilight? Or have they just tightened up the code? This is not posted on the Philips support page, so I am leery of trying this yet...

It was posted by someone in the 50PF7220 thread. I poke around in all the Philips threads because they seem to have similar behavior, and noticed the link.


Well from reading the responses to that other thread you reference its obvious the firmware you are speaking of isnt sanctioned or available from Philips .The responses seems to think it was a modded (unauthorized) version. I'll wait until Philips releases an upgrade and if I need it I will upgrade, my system works fine and I think I'll keep it that way. :)

Tovmasta78 wrote:
The sound worked fine through the digital audio when I had it connected to the cable box before I switched to HDMI. It just doesn't wanna come through for the DVD player. Any thoughts?

I've experienced a somewhat similar lack/loss of audio over HDMI between my Samsung V9650 DVD/VCR combo and Panasonic plasma. Maybe the cause is the same:

In my case, the problem turns out to be that the TV only accepts PCM digital audio, which is 2-channel. It totally rejects bitstream (the other digital output option on the DVD), which carries the full 5.1 Dolby Digital or DTS signal. The DVD can only output one or the other at any one time. So whichever format goes over HDMI to the TV also goes over digital coax or optical to the surround receiver. And when any digital output is in use, there is no analog DVD audio output through the stereo L/R RCA jacks.

When the output is set to bistream so that the receiver can process true 5.1 Dolby (my preferred setting), no DVD sound is available to the TV (for those family members who might not remember that they have to use the receiver to hear DVD audio).

When the DVD output is set to PCM, audio is available to both the TV and the receiver. But since it's only 2-channel, I need the receiver (Onkyo TX-SR503) to apply one of its simulated surround modes -- Dolby PL II, Neo Cinema, whatever. These sound good. But they're not the actual 5.1 mix supplied on the DVD.

There appears to be no workaround.

Hope this points you to a solution to your mystery.

Ken

Well from reading the responses to that other thread you reference its obvious the firmware you are speaking of isnt sanctioned or available from Philips .The responses seems to think it was a modded (unauthorized) version. I'll wait until Philips releases an upgrade and if I need it I will upgrade, my system works fine and I think I'll keep it that way. :)


Agree to a point, but the link is hosted by Philips. (flattv.philips.com) That's what gave me the confidence to try it. Still working great!

Ok, it works for you, but do you still have all the options we are used to, like stereo Ambilight?

Stereo Ambilight yes, TV Guide no

Hm, well TV Guide never worked right for me anyway (actually seemed to screw up the TV in many ways!!), so that is no big loss. Maybe that explains the missing 2 megs of code in the firmware...

Well, for the non-believers in the new firmware release:
http://www.usasupport.philips.com/productDocuments.html?ProductCode=42PF9630A/37&SearchByModelNo=true

It's more official now.

I purchased my Philips 50PF9630A/37 about two months ago. Since I've been adding things to the component and have run out of component connections, so I decided to move my primary cable box to the HDMI input...

The problem that I'm having is I have to run the TV, when it's cold, for about 15 minutes in order for the picture to finally improve. [Sync Issues causing static]

After a long wait (three months) finally someone came out here with a new signal board (the board where you plug the HDMI and component cables in.

The new signal board works great - no more static. This is with the DirecTV HD-DVR that many people have had previous problems with.

Unfortunately, it appears while the tech was here doing the repairs, they apparently disconnected the media connector so I am unable to load the latest firmware or play any pictures - I tried four USB units and they all wouldn't work. I'm opening a ticket with Philips about this issue and I hope to get this issue fixed soon.

Read this thread in it's entirety, read the USER thread on the Philips 9630, and check out HomeTheater's review in December 2005.


I quit on the 15th page
a quick summery? anyone

Well, for the non-believers in the new firmware release:
http://www.usasupport.philips.com/productDocuments.html?ProductCode=42PF9630A/37&SearchByModelNo=true

It's more official now.


Now its on the Philips site an offical release. :)

All this is just my opinion, but I have had this TV for a little over a month and am satisfied with it. I first thought the Ambilight was a gimmick that would proabably get turned off once I got it home, but now I think there is something to it. I choose between the Philips, a Panasonic, an LG, and a Hitachi (all 42 inch models). In reading the reviews, most reviewers gave the Panasonic the thumbs up over the rest, though the performance numbers that I read for these TVs seemed to be within 5% or so of each other. In other words, not a lot of difference between them. Anyway, at Best Buy, the Panasonic seemed to have just a little bit sharper image than the rest, but the Philips seemed to have more features and connections. The LG seemed to have a little more pixilated image than the Philips. The Hitachi (at Circuit City) turned out to be an ALiS (interlaced only) display. Best Buy had all their TV's either in or near "torch mode" with the brightness and contrast settings turned WAY up. When I set the Panasonic and Philips to about the same settings at about 50 % brightness, I didn't see a lot of difference, though the Panasonic was still just a hair sharper and the Philips had slightly more natural colors. All the TV's did well with HD images, but at the time, the Philips seemed to deal a little better with SD images than the rest.

I bought the 9630A two weeks ago. the closed captioning works fine with analog cable channels. Last Sunday, i set up the TV connected with Comcast HDTV box. the picture is good. but i can't get the closed captioning even I have turned on the captioning in my TV. I don't know why. the signal goes through from Box to TV using Component Video cables.

I also didn't find the option on the hdtv box(scientific Altlanta) to provide the captioning function.

Any suggestions, please.

I don't know if your question has been answered or not, but I had similar issues with a Comcast box. I'm not home and don't know if it was the same set top box, but this was the fix: turn off the cable box, leaving Plasma on. Hit the menu button on the cable box remote. That brings up a screen containing several different options, one of which is to enable closed captioning.

Hope this helps.

Now its on the Philips site an offical release. :)


That makes me feel much better. I'll install it tonight!

I am thinking about getting this TV at Best Buy this weekend. I have the 42 inch Westinghouse 1080P LCD and I am thinking about returning it for this TV. I have asked questions in that forum as well.

I currently have 43 inch Pioneer Elite Plasma that I am in love with but cant afford another one. I need a quality second TV

I want to know if this TV is worth giving up 4 1080P inputs for?

The question I have is concerning the Comcast Cable output. On the Westinghouse if the cable box was set to 720p then the Hi Def Channels looked great, but every single standard channel had black boxes on the side. Is there a setting on the this Philips where every channel is set to full screen( I think I saw an "Automatic" setting in the manual, how does the setting work for everybody with Comcast?)

Also another important questions is 720P vs 1080P. I will not be getting any component outputting 1080P until there is a standard 1080P output(HDDVD or BluRay). Who knows when that will be?

So in this forums opinion , will I be better off exchanging the 42 Westinghouse LCD for this 42 Philips Plasma

Will I be able to tell any difference between outputting 720P to this Philips vs outputting 720P and having the 42 Westinghouse LCD upscale to 1080P

Any suggestions or comments are appreciated. Thanks

I am thinking about getting this TV at Best Buy this weekend. I have the 42 inch Westinghouse 1080P LCD and I am thinking about returning it for this TV. I have asked questions in that forum as well.

I currently have 43 inch Pioneer Elite Plasma that I am in love with but cant afford another one. I need a quality second TV.


>>> Well, the Pioneer Elite was considered tops in the forum ratings. But, in my opinion only, it seemed that the plasma manufacturer's TV performance varyed by 5 to 10 %. Not a huge difference.


I want to know if this TV is worth giving up 4 1080P inputs for?


>>> Only you can ultimately make that choice.


The question I have is concerning the Comcast Cable output. On the Westinghouse if the cable box was set to 720p then the Hi Def Channels looked great, but every single standard channel had black boxes on the side. Is there a setting on the this Philips where every channel is set to full screen( I think I saw an "Automatic" setting in the manual, how does the setting work for everybody with Comcast?)


>>> Yes, the 42PF9630A has an automatic and several manual settings for cropping the picture. I leave mine on automatic most of the time since that is the only crop setting that is active when viewing an HD channel. There are several other ones for use with SD channels. I have my Comcast box hooked to the Philips though an HDMI cable. The TV indicates that it is getting 1080i signals on the HD channels; apparently the TV is downscaling to 768.


Also another important questions is 720P vs 1080P. I will not be getting any component outputting 1080P until there is a standard 1080P output(HDDVD or BluRay). Who knows when that will be?


>>> Only God knows. The manufacturers seem hell-bent on shooting themselves in the foot (again) just like they did in the Betamax vs VHS and DVD-RW vs DVD+RW wars. I am personally looking at maybe getting the Samsung R145 DVD recorder to use for a couple of years until all this settles out. The Samsung model (when it comes out) will have an upconverting 1080i HDMI output and otherwise uses standard DVD+RW's.


So in this forums opinion , will I be better off exchanging the 42 Westinghouse LCD for this 42 Philips Plasma.


>>> Again, only you can make this choice. Why are you unsatisfied with the Westinghouse?


Will I be able to tell any difference between outputting 720P to this Philips vs outputting 720P and having the 42 Westinghouse LCD upscale to 1080P.


>>> You will probably be able to tell at least a bit of a difference. Right now, I have a hard time sorting out if the signals I'm getting from Comcast are true 1080i (1080i TV camera, 1080i recording, 1080i signal reception, etc). If you do get the Philips TV, run it near the 40% to 50% levels on brightness and 50% to 70% levels on contrast. Philips also put out a new firmware update that improves the TV also.

Hope this helps.

FYI, Philips released new firmware on the 19th... so be sure to grab it when you buy your tv...

so the new firmware listed for the PF7320A works for the 42PF9630A?

I had the black screen thing happen iniitially after upgrading to the latest firmware a couple weeks ago but not really since. Now i just get the solid green screen problem.

Also, sometimes when the tv is off I hear it click a few times like the sound of it turning on and off but have no idea what it is doing as it is powered off.

Is the green screen problem permanent and worth exchanging the tv for a new one since I just got it?

Hi Quatre, I don't know if this may be the problem, but....... I also get the occassional green screen to, as well as the infamous (famous?) black screen. But to resolve the green screen, I unplug my STB, a Motorola 6412, for about 15 minutes, plug it back in and wait a couple of minutes for the STB to "reset" itself and the green screen is gone. I have been having the green screen quite a bit lately and I called my cable provider and they are going to exchange the box tonight. I'll keep you posted.

Hi Quatre, I don't know if this may be the problem, but....... I also get the occassional green screen to, as well as the infamous (famous?) black screen. But to resolve the green screen, I unplug my STB, a Motorola 6412, for about 15 minutes, plug it back in and wait a couple of minutes for the STB to "reset" itself and the green screen is gone. I have been having the green screen quite a bit lately and I called my cable provider and they are going to exchange the box tonight. I'll keep you posted.


yeah i have the same comcast moto 6412 hdmi hd dvr dstb. I also has the black screen but now mostly just green now and then. i dont think it is the box but rather something to do with the tv as others have had the same thing.

since my 42pf9630a was brand new i'm exchanging for a new one and trying that. i'm sure the new one will have some problems too but hopefully not more, then i'll tyr the new firmware. sounds like most ppl have some quirk or another and just deal with it as its mostly a great plasma and for a a great price now.

but since mine was new and had a few problems it made sense to exchange and try my luck with a new one.

Has anyone bought the AVIA or DVE calibration DVD's and tested them out on the 42PF9630A? If so, what brightness, contrast, and color setting did the cal disk(s) lead you to?

Update..... Well last night the cable tech. came and checked out the dstb. He said I was getting a good strong signal. When he pulled the cabinet away from the wall, he immediately said Oh! Oh!.... I said What? He says he notices I had the cable plugged into a surge protector and they have been known to cause problems. So he connects the cable directly to the back of the stb. Could it be possible that maybe my surge protector is flaky and causing my problem? Don't know.... stay tuned..... (no pun intended).

I used ********** to get my disks but thought they were to complex for me to use much.

Has anyone bought the AVIA or DVE calibration DVD's and tested them out on the 42PF9630A? If so, what brightness, contrast, and color setting did the cal disk(s) lead you to?

I did a quick callibration with DVE and came up with the following based on my lighting conditions .

Contrast: 69 (this can be cranked up higher without blooming - I just felt comfortable here)
Brightness: 51
Color: 51
Tint: -1
Sharpness: 2
Temperature: Normal

All of the other settings are pretty much just user preference...

Hope this helps some...

I did a quick callibration with DVE and came up with the following based on my lighting conditions .

Contrast: 69 (this can be cranked up higher without blooming - I just felt comfortable here)
Brightness: 51
Color: 51
Tint: -1
Sharpness: 2
Temperature: Normal

All of the other settings are pretty much just user preference...

Hope this helps some...
Thanks for the info! Are your "lighting conditions" for regular room lights, or in the dark, etc? For my living room, I guessed and set my Philips TV to

contrast = 65
brightness = 50
color = 47
tint = 0
sharpness = 2
temp = normal

Pretty much close to what you have set.

Thanks.

My settings are for evening viewing with one lamp in the corner...so low-medium light :)

But I'll say that my settings are also satisfactory for me during the day as well. I have lots of natural light pouring in from 4 windows and a glass door, but thankfully, I have the plasma facing in a way that I get almost no reflections at all.

I just set up my new 50pf9630, and I am noticing that on some dark scenes (e.g., the eery massacre scene in Hotel Rwanda) the picture looks almost like it was colored with a crayon. I think I've seen this effect referred to by others as "clay face," and also perhaps as "solarization" and/or "tiling." (Sorry, but I'm not much of a techie, and I haven't educated myself yet on plasma terminology.) In any event, I suspect that this may be a problem with either the screen's settings, the cable box settings, or the quaility of my signal. I am using a Comcast HD/DVR box (Motorola DCT 6208 I believe) with both HDMI and component cable connections to the plasma (both inputs show similar problems with darker scenes). The cables are both from Blue Jeans, which I've been told are high quality. The problem isn't there on HD signals, but it is on HBO, Showtime, etc (which are supposedly high quality digital signals). Any advice on how to correct would be appreciated, as I would hate to have to return the screen just to find that the problem was elsewhere. Thanks.

I just set up my new 50pf9630, and I am noticing that on some dark scenes (e.g., the eery massacre scene in Hotel Rwanda) the picture looks almost like it was colored with a crayon. I think I've seen this effect referred to by others as "clay face," and also perhaps as "solarization" and/or "tiling." (Sorry, but I'm not much of a techie, and I haven't educated myself yet on plasma terminology.) In any event, I suspect that this may be a problem with either the screen's settings, the cable box settings, or the quaility of my signal. I am using a Comcast HD/DVR box (Motorola DCT 6208 I believe) with both HDMI and component cable connections to the plasma (both inputs show similar problems with darker scenes). The cables are both from Blue Jeans, which I've been told are high quality. The problem isn't there on HD signals, but it is on HBO, Showtime, etc (which are supposedly high quality digital signals). Any advice on how to correct would be appreciated, as I would hate to have to return the screen just to find that the problem was elsewhere. Thanks.

In my opinion your problem is source/signal related not the PDP. Ive had my 9630a plasma for over 9 months now and dont have that issue and have the same cable channels as you mentioned .I have cablevision and the SA 8300 HD DVR connected via HDMI. I would think that your particular cable company has limited to some extent the bandwidth of the digital signal resulting in the false contouring you mentioned. My cable company a few years ago upgraded the entire system to fiber optic cabling and has bandwidth to spare. Newer released movies in general have a better digital transfer then older movies. So if your seeing this problem with them as well your problem is signal related. You may want to contact your cable and have them test to see what your incoming signal strength is. Also if your cable has been split this can also cause signal loss.

In my opinion your problem is source/signal related not the PDP. Ive had my 9630a plasma for over 9 months now and dont have that issue and have the same cable channels as you mentioned .I have cablevision and the SA 8300 HD DVR connected via HDMI. I would think that your particular cable company has limited to some extent the bandwidth of the digital signal resulting in the false contouring you mentioned. My cable company a few years ago upgraded the entire system to fiber optic cabling and has bandwidth to spare. Newer released movies in general have a better digital transfer then older movies. So if your seeing this problem with them as well your problem is signal related. You may want to contact your cable and have them test to see what your incoming signal strength is. Also if your cable has been split this can also cause signal loss.

I see something like that in the background on dark scenes (like blue underwater scenes, scenes with a blue sky background, etc) or around bright object in an otherwise dark scene (like an image with the sun in the background). I currently have a Comcast Motorola DCT6412-III connected to the 42PF9630A with an HDMI cable. I have tried using a component cable which sometimes has a bit less of the crayon effect. Is this due to digitization errors of the TV, or the digital signal source errors from the cable company, or both? Is there any other way to minimize this effect? I tried tinkering with the TV's settings and it didn't change much.

Thanks for the replies. The degree of the problem varies depending on the actual program or film being broadcast. In other words, one film on HBO might look pretty good during dark scenes, while another has tremendous false contouring, as if colored by crayon. The release dat of the film, however, does not appear to be determinative (e.g., Hotel Rwanda, released in 2004 looked horrible in the darker scenes). The cable guy is coming to bring and insert a cable card tomorrow, and I will have him check signal strength. The line is split twice - first to my computer modem and then between my DVR cable box and directly to the TV for use of the card. I have not yet hooked up the DVD player, but will do so tonight. That should be a way to determine if signal strength is not the source if the problem.

On another note, I uploaded the latest software last night, and afetrwards, I have been having the "split screen" problem pop up. That is, if I now switch from my cable box HDMI input to the box's component input, the signal gets scrambled and what appears like a split screen containing 2 1/2 images appears. It goes away if I hit the Guide button on the cable box remote and then exit out of the guide, so I would assume it is a problem with how the box is now communicating with the PDP. This problem did not happen once prior to the software upgrade, and I switched between HDMI and component several times before the upgrade to compare the pictures.

I think I recall reading other users had this problem earlier in this thread. Any fixes?

SD to HD switching: Do you folks get several seconds of flashing snow before the picture comes up? Thought this was normal, but have seen some indications that maybe it is not...

This is with an SA8300HD connected by HDMI to my 42PF9630a. Did not see this when I was hooked up by component cable...

SD to HD switching: Do you folks get several seconds of flashing snow before the picture comes up? Thought this was normal, but have seen some indications that maybe it is not...

This is with an SA8300HD connected by HDMI to my 42PF9630a. Did not see this when I was hooked up by component cable...

I have the same setup. I don't get 'snow', what I do get is 1 or 2 seconds of multiple images as in PIP. It's of such short duration it doesn't bother me. There is also a slight delay in audio when changing channels. No bother either, one or two words are unimportant. Maybe I'm more tolerant of TV (not TV shows),after more than 50 years of looking at it.

I get it also with an SA4250HD box anytime there is a different resolution. I have it set on passthrough. It will even show up when going from ESPNHD (720P) to CBSHD (1080i). The same thing happens with another (non-philips) hd tv I have.

I was wondering what wall mounts everyone is using with the 42PF9630A?

I am going to use a Digicom DC-A650 that can be seen here
http://www.digitalmegastore.com/product/?02005&
and
http://www.centraldigital.com/product/?2005&

can't seem to find a list of compatible tvs but I gues its supposed to work with everything and is universal. The online merchant I bought it from was also who I got the tv from and though their site first said they were selling me a Peerless wall mount I then got this one though they did tell me ahead of time and I think they said this was what everyone got with the 42PF9630A so its not a matter of them switching product on me necessarily and they have been accomdating and i can return it but want to make sure it will work and is a good choice for this PDP

As can be seen @
http://common.csnstores.com/common/specsheet/pe_pswt.asp
by scrolling down or searching to Philips 42PF9630A the PSWT PH50 is the peerless model wall mount that works with it while thier site originally just said PSWT and i wanted to make sure it was the PH50 but now that I got this Digicom DC-A650 I dont know for sure if it will work and is best.

Also a note of importance is that I am mounting this on a tv stand wall unit with back panel meant for mounting plasmas up to 60". I am worried about the heavy weight of the 42PF630A but figure even being heavy for a 42" it can't be more then even a light 60" so it should hold it but it is just wood with laminate over it which is why i'm thinking of getting a professional install so that they can be responsible if they break it instead of me so i can get a replacement back panel because when i ordered the piece of furniture the back panel came broken and i had to wait for a replacment so i know its breakable.

Regardless it fits perfectly in my bedroom and is a great wall unit with nice component shelves and storage cabinets as well as the great idea of the back panel to mount plasma so you dont have to go into your wall and it easily hides the cords without having to fish those through the wall though i'm worried about drilling the extra hole for cords in the right place and without splitting the wood etc.

Also the wall unit has a cool glass shelf above where you mount the plasma
here is a link to it
http://store.ardinfurniture.com/Detail.bok?no=240&category=Entertainment%20Centers:Plasma%20Furniture

I got it in white to match other stuff in room and best reflect the ambilights. I can recommend it so far but will have to see how the mounting goes.

Please let me know what mounts everyone is using and if anyone has used this DigiCom DC-A650 and if you think it will work on the 42PF9630A

Can somebody post a link to the next to last firmware? I upgraded my plasma to the newest version before I found out about the hidden TV Guide and would like to enable it. Also, has anyone tried to enable dual PiP tuner or is it locked at single tuner PiP? The stereo Ambilight II is cool.

Does anyone have an opinion on what the best settings for ACTIVE CONTROL, DNR, and Dynamic contrast are?

So should I assume that the additions of RRT (Region Rating Table) in previous firmwares which can now be turned on in the latest and the deletion of Gemstar TV Guide and addition of EPG which cannot be turned on (yet) means that Philips has opted to abandon Gemstar TV Guide in favor of the PSIP standard???

Also, has anyone figured out how to manually name channels that didn't automatically detect the names yet? That's pretty annoying.

I've had my unit for a week and still haven't seen the Black screen of death (I have the 50" model that went on sale @ CC), but I am not using HDMI...only standard NTSC/M and ATSC and ATSC/HD channels over RF and a progressive DVD player via component. I'm wondering if the BSOD has something to do with all of your cable boxes???

Finally, is there any way to monitor the cable signal strength? In the Scientific Atlanta (now Cisco I guess) Explorer boxes you could go into the service menu and it would tell you the S/N ratio, signal strength in db upstream and down, and current packet decompression error statistics. Does such a menu exist on the Philips? I think my cable signal is weak because a lot of the digital channels are not tuning in and some days some channels work and other days they are just black which to me indicates too weak of a signal to properly decompress the packets. I know my analog channels have a lot of noise in them regardless of which tv I watch them on in my house (and yes, my Plasma gets the first cut and all the other TV's share the 2nd feed).

Does anybody have recommendations for a surge protector that will fit behind a wall-mounted TV?

Can somebody post a link to the next to last firmware? I upgraded my plasma to the newest version before I found out about the hidden TV Guide and would like to enable it. Also, has anyone tried to enable dual PiP tuner or is it locked at single tuner PiP? The stereo Ambilight II is cool.

what is the TV guide exactly and i'm assuming its something you wouldn't need/want if you have a dstb with a guide already.

i've seen ppl mention the stereo ambilights before but never saw it as an option and not sure what it does exactly.

I had the second to newest firmware on my set but I had to exchange that one for a new one because I had major black and green screen problems.

so I do have the second to newest firmware if you can't find it anywhere and still need it.

I was going to just skip to the newest one that came out 4/19/06 or somethign right on my new replacement set which so far doesnt' have any major problems.

Is there any reason why I wouldn't want the newest like how you seem to want to revert back?

where is link to the newest, heh, i'm lazy.

i forgot to mention that my old slightly defective set was an 05 model YA1A05 and my new one is a YA1A06 and seems fine.

I just upgraded to the new firmware on it and looking good.

Hello,

I posted on the main forum page, and probably realized I should've came here instead. I'm new to HDTV and large screen tv's so I was extremely excited to see the circuit city delivery guy drop by with my brand new Philips 50PF9630a.

Upon powering up the tv, I hear a couple clicks, the screen turns greyish and then clicks off. And nothing happens. I haven't gotten anything hooked up yet except my trusty old antenna. I can hear audio from the tv shows that it picks up, but no video. I can change channels, ambilight is on and changes color, and my guess is that it's picking up the signal, but still no video on the screen. I can't even see the menus on the screen to see what settings the tv is set for. It doesn't have the red flashing LED that some have had in this forum with the "black screen" problem.

I could tell that with ambilight, it really could enhance the viewing experience, but with no picture, there isn't a viewing experience...

Anyone seen anything like this? Appreciate any help/direction! Thanks!

Tom

At first I thought it was my 6412, but this time it was both HDMI ports. I paused the Masters for a few minutes and of course turned off my TV - 20 minutes later I came down, turned it back on and heard the Masters playing but and the screen went completely 100% GREEN, no stripes or bars, all green. So I switched to HDMI1 and put in a DVD same thing - both times when I turn the DVR or DVD player off and then on I get a brief glimpse of a nice pic then BLAH. The DVD gives a bunch of dark "stuff" but the HDMI2 input w/ my 6412 is all green. This happened last week I assumed it was the 6412 so I just let it go unplugged all night and never thought about again until earlier today. It is working again fine on both inputs - any thoughts? I my TV above my fireplace (we never use) and there is a big hole for a CRT 36" to fit so the venelation should be more than fine.....I don't think I heard audio via DVD but I know I heard it via Cable....any thoughts?

This went away for about a month and now it is back again! It happened last night. Same thing, TV was off for a while and when I turned it on I get green screen on both HDMI inputs (one Cable and one DVD upconverted). When I run my cable thru an extra S-Video cable I see the picture fine. I turn it off and walk away for about an hour and come back and it is working fine....GRRRRRRR

SD to HD switching: Do you folks get several seconds of flashing snow before the picture comes up? Thought this was normal, but have seen some indications that maybe it is not...

This is with an SA8300HD connected by HDMI to my 42PF9630a. Did not see this when I was hooked up by component cable...
I have the same setup as you and I do get the quick flashing of snow and/or green when switching from SD to HD. It only lasts for a fraction of a second to a full second at most for me and I don't even notice it anymore because I got used to it. Before the September '05 firmware update, the TV would get stuck in a snow/green state and I could only get out of it by powering down the TV and turning it back on or doing the same to my cable box. I figured it was an HDCP handshaking problem.

I wonder if Philips has tweaked something in the new firmware. I used to get the snow/green flashes to but they've disappeared for about a month now.

I was wondering if someone could help with something - I'm trying to figure out exactly what I'm going to need to buy to hook up my current devices.

1) Does the set pass through 5.1 audio from the HDMI inputs on the digital output?

2) Does the set convert analog sound (ie. from the built-in NTSC tuner or a VCR) to digital, or will I also need to hook up analog out to a receiver?

3) Is there any way to combine HDMI video in and analog audio, such as for a PC (the manual only mentions HDMI + separate digital in, but my laptop doesn't offer digital out).

I was wondering if someone could help with something - I'm trying to figure out exactly what I'm going to need to buy to hook up my current devices.

1) Does the set pass through 5.1 audio from the HDMI inputs on the digital output?

2) Does the set convert analog sound (ie. from the built-in NTSC tuner or a VCR) to digital, or will I also need to hook up analog out to a receiver?

3) Is there any way to combine HDMI video in and analog audio, such as for a PC (the manual only mentions HDMI + separate digital in, but my laptop doesn't offer digital out).

Don't know about 1 or 3 because I don't have any HDMI items, but #2, the digital out will transfer sound to the receiverno matter what is showing, SD, or HD. It woun't be dolby digital or anything, but the standard will transfer without a separate analog hook up.

I was wondering if someone could help with something - I'm trying to figure out exactly what I'm going to need to buy to hook up my current devices.

1) Does the set pass through 5.1 audio from the HDMI inputs on the digital output?

Yes.


2) Does the set convert analog sound (ie. from the built-in NTSC tuner or a VCR) to digital, or will I also need to hook up analog out to a receiver?

Yes, normal analog inputs are converted into digital.


3) Is there any way to combine HDMI video in and analog audio, such as for a PC (the manual only mentions HDMI + separate digital in, but my laptop doesn't offer digital out).

Not as far as I could figure out. There's a single digital in which can be assigned to any of the inputs, so I ended up buying a usb soundcard with digital out so I could use the hdmi connectors.

Alternatively you could use an rgbhv/vga cable and connect in via analog, the picture won't be quite as crisp but you'll be able to use analog audio.

Thanks for the answers - I plan on hooking things up to an audio receiver for slightly better sound, however I was hoping to get away with a "little" digital receiver and those don't tend to have much in the way of inputs. Passing through all digital and converting analog to digital actually makes things a whole lot easier for me, especially since a few of the models I've been looking at only have two auxiliary inputs (gives me one for everything hooked up to the TV and one direct to the PC). Although I'll probably still go for something a little more versatile.

Continuing the thread on digital audio, I recently tried to connect the TV to my receiver using the digital output but found to my chagrin that the input to the receiver had a different shaped plug than the output from the TV. The TV digital out is circular while the digital audio input on the receiver has a flat side. The latter is the same as the output from my DVD and my STB. So what gives? Am I doing something wrong?

The digital inputs and outputs are just coaxal spdif -- in other words it's an rca connector sending pcm data.

I have my dvd player hooked up through the HDMI connectors and I can get full DTS via the TV's digital out. My only complaint so far is that when the tv guide interface is enabled the tv will occasionally go into a standby mode to download data with the screen and speakers off but the digital out live. It took my by surprise the first few times -- my tv was "off" but the external digital speakers were playing PBS.

As mentioned, you need Coaxial Digital for the TV (basically a standard RCA composite video cable), but your receiver seems to only have Optical Digital (AKA Toslink). What brand/model is it? Coaxial digital is pretty commonplace stuff...

Hi all,

I finally got my 50pf9630a working after several returns from Circuit City and finally got one built in Feb 06 (previous returns gave me September/October 05 build dates). Not on the recall list, no buzzing, ambilight looks better than I thought, and the PQ looks great!!! I love this plasma!

Fiddling around with what this beau is capable of, I come across something I'm not sure works as it should. Does anyone here know if the PIP function only works with HDMI input? I'm trying to get PIP with AV1/2/3's but get a signal not available. Don't have HDMI inputs currently, and was hoping if someone could shed some light.

Thanks!

Tom

Hi all,

I finally got my 50pf9630a working after several returns from Circuit City and finally got one built in Feb 06 (previous returns gave me September/October 05 build dates). Not on the recall list, no buzzing, ambilight looks better than I thought, and the PQ looks great!!! I love this plasma!

Fiddling around with what this beau is capable of, I come across something I'm not sure works as it should. Does anyone here know if the PIP function only works with HDMI input? I'm trying to get PIP with AV1/2/3's but get a signal not available. Don't have HDMI inputs currently, and was hoping if someone could shed some light.

Thanks!

Tom

I have the 42 inch, and the PIP will work as long as one of the inputs is digital. I don't have HDMI either, put I have the cable plugged directly into the set. If I am on a HD channel, I can view SD from the VCR on an AUX input, but if I am viewing a SD channel on the TV through cable, then PIP won't work on AUX inputs.

Fiddling around with what this beau is capable of, I come across something I'm not sure works as it should. Does anyone here know if the PIP function only works with HDMI input? I'm trying to get PIP with AV1/2/3's but get a signal not available. Don't have HDMI inputs currently, and was hoping if someone could shed some light.

I have an HDMI DVD player, and it can do PIP with regular TV. It seems like the PIP can't display 2 inputs of the same type- I can show HD and SD cable, SD cable and HDMI etc, but I can't show 2 SD channels, or SD and the VCR at the same time.

Hope that helps!

I am planning to buy Phillips 42 inch 42PF9630A/37 model. I have no or little idea about the plasma telivision in the market. The reason why I am inclined to get this model is I can get this TV for less than 1900 through my epp. Please someone advise me if this is a good purchase or not as this is going to be a huge investment for my pocket.

The only brand(s) I see consistently ranked higher (though slightly) in various reviews are mainly the Panasonic brand and a couple of Pioneer models. I have the 42PF9630A/37 hooked to a Comcast DCT6412-III cable box via an HDMI cable and have had good luck with it so far over the last couple of months. Most reviews I have seen (both professional and user reviews) rank this TV as a good to very good model. There is a recall by Philips out on the 9630 series, but it affects mainly the 50 inch models. If you do get this TV, be sure to download the latest firmware from the Philips website and flash load it on the TV.

Anybody have any thoughts on this surge receptacle for behind a wall mounted flat panel?

http://www.smarthome.com/865130.html

I have the 42 inch, and the PIP will work as long as one of the inputs is digital. I don't have HDMI either, put I have the cable plugged directly into the set. If I am on a HD channel, I can view SD from the VCR on an AUX input, but if I am viewing a SD channel on the TV through cable, then PIP won't work on AUX inputs.

Just a word of caution. When displaying two screens using the PIP(one on left one on right) a yellow line separates the two images. I know at least one person left it in that mode for a fairly long time and had a real bad case of image retention.

Just a word of caution. When displaying two screens using the PIP(one on left one on right) a yellow line separates the two images. I know at least one person left it in that mode for a fairly long time and had a real bad case of image retention.

That was me, and I can still see the ghost image of it months later, though it has seemed to fade some.

Anybody have any thoughts on this surge receptacle for behind a wall mounted flat panel?

http://www.smarthome.com/865130.html

I'm somewhat more careful about my electronics. I feel that would be insufficient, especially if your electrical service is in any way unstable, at some time it will be.. Mine is pretty clean, yet I sometimes get low or high voltages. My power supply intercepts and corrects it. I'm not about to trust a unit costing 3k to a $39.00 item. I use an APC H-15.

I'm somewhat more careful about my electronics. I feel that would be insufficient, especially if your electrical service is in any way unstable, at some time it will be.. Mine is pretty clean, yet I sometimes get low or high voltages. My power supply intercepts and corrects it. I'm not about to trust a unit costing 3k to a $39.00 item. I use an APC H-15.

I appreciate your thoughts, but I need something that will fit behind the wall mounted TV. I know there are others in this forum that have wall mounted TV's. I'd appreciate their input on what surge protector they used and with what wall mount. Thanks for any help.

My TV is wall mounted on the Omnimount U-3T. I doubt that anything other than a simple surge suppressor would fit behind the set, there's only about 2 inches clearance. Why does it have to be behind the TV?

My TV is wall mounted on the Omnimount U-3T. I doubt that anything other than a simple surge suppressor would fit behind the set, there's only about 2 inches clearance. Why does it have to be behind the TV?

I have the same wall mount as you. The TV has been wall-mounted for about 6 months. Up until now, I have been running the cord for the tv behind the wall down to the surge protector and outlet. Knowing that doing this is not "code" and potentially a fire hazard (also getting rats about it from others), I had an electrician install a receptacal behind the TV last week. I'd like the surge protector behind the TV so that it is not seen. I'd like to avoid seeing any wires hanging from the wall mounted TV. Please see this forum (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=566931&page=3&pp=30) for pics of my set up.

I have the same wall mount as you. The TV has been wall-mounted for about 6 months. Up until now, I have been running the cord for the tv behind the wall down to the surge protector and outlet. Knowing that doing this is not "code" and potentially a fire hazard (also getting rats about it from others), I had an electrician install a receptacal behind the TV last week. I'd like the surge protector behind the TV so that it is not seen. I'd like to avoid seeing any wires hanging from the wall mounted TV. Please see this forum (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=566931&page=3&pp=30) for pics of my set up.

Nice. I (and others on this forum) solved that problem by using a wall mounted PVC cable runway. You can get about a 5 foot section at Home Depot or Lowes for less than $15. It can be cut to the necessary length and painted or covered to match the wall. It makes a very neat appearance and helped soothe my wife's sensibilities.

As far as I know, running a power cable down the wall doesn't violate electrical code in most states. I know in my state romex is run in residential construction in bare walls with the only restrictions being that it must be secured to the studs, cross plumbing at right angles (as opposed to running with it), etc. An insulated, grounded, 120 electrical plug is just as safe as a piece of romex as long as your wife doesn't start nailing pictures into the wall in the vicinity of where you ran your cord *grin*. Seriously though... I have the same mount and if you don't want to use a surface mount channel and absolutely feel you want conduit, then I would recomment using flexible PVC conduit.

When I had my house built, instead of prewiring it, I pre-conduited it before sheetrock went up in every room on pretty much every wall with Carlon flex giving me attic access to pull cable anywhere in the house to anywhere in the house (specifically my media closet). They make connectors to connect the Carlon tubing and you can cut to length with a hacksaw. Use the electrical boxes w/o the backs to relieve cable strain (the carlon pipe connects to a connector that snaps to the top of the box). I use leviton structured media components for my faceplates and jacks (i.e. component rca push-in style). To keep from having to have a surge protector behind your plasma, just "jump" your power to your plasma. Run a strand of romex behind your tv through the 2nd conduit to give you a dedicated grounded outlet. Instead of tying it into your main power, actually plug it directly into your surge protector elsewhere in your house. Then plug your TV directly into the outlet hidden behind it. Use the omnimount snapon channel to dress the power cord and assorted video cabling to keep it out of the way of the tilt mechanism and out of sight. Remember depending on attic access/etc./you may have to cut a 1' x 2' section out of your wall in key areas to allow drill access in order to get your paddle bit or auger bit through studs or top plates. Sheetrock repair is simple expecially if you still have some paint on hand from the last time your den was painted.

Hi guys, first time posting on the thread. I just received my 50PF9830a this weekend, so far picture looks great.

Few questions:

1) I cannot get Closed captioning to work for my cable, I hooked it up to AV1 via component, and will get it hooked up to HDMI once I get the cable. But I just cannot get CC to work. I heard people can get CC to work on regular cable via coaxial, but I would like to get it to work via component or HDMI as well!

2) The TV was damaged few weeks ago when it first arrived and was repaired (and RE-arrived this weekend). However, I found out that there's no option to select Pixel Plus 2 from the menu. I started another thread asking whether I got scammed from the repairman and got an older panel for replacement, and people suggest maybe it's disabled in the system menu. How do I activate it again?

3) The picture looks great and HD looks great in general. But in HD programming, if i sit really close, I can see tiny green pixels here and there. (what's the name for that?) And also there's sometimes considerable digital noise (depending on signal i guess). How can I minimize those?

Thanks in advance!!

The menu on mine has never shown "pixel plus 2," only "pixel plus." Does yours show "pixel plus?"

yeah.. "Pixel Plus" only. What model is your TV, mlandau?

I also have a 32PF9996 in the bedroom, and that one shows Pixel Plus 2 alright. that's why I am confused.

I have 50PF9830a and I know that one has PP2.

Just a newbie question, is there any PQ difference between the 42PF9630A/37 and the 50PF9630A/37? Does it depend mostly on the viewing distance? What about the build quality?
Thanks you guys.

From what I know, PQ is the same. the only difference is really the size. depending on the viewing distance, if you sit too close to the TV, a 50 inch maybe too big to view comfortably. (basically you have to scan left and right to see the whole picture)

but normal living room size, i think 50 inch is just about right :D though 42 is good too :D

Just a newbie question, is there any PQ difference between the 42PF9630A/37 and the 50PF9630A/37? Does it depend mostly on the viewing distance? What about the build quality?
Thanks you guys.

No, the only difference is the number of pixels displayed. The 50 inch needing more to cover the additional screen real estate . :)

Thank you Boxdata and Casey for the replies.

There are tons of information on this thread. I just want to thank everyone for sharing your knowledge and experiences.

I think I'll probably get the 50PF9630A/37. I want to mount the tv on the outside wall but underneath the dry wall is the concrete wall (no studs). Here are the next questions, it seems like the Omnimount U3-T is a good choice, can I use this mount on my concrete wall? What is the best way to install it?

Thank you Boxdata and Casey for the replies.

There are tons of information on this thread. I just want to thank everyone for sharing your knowledge and experiences.

I think I'll probably get the 50PF9630A/37. I want to mount the tv on the outside wall but underneath the dry wall is the concrete wall (no studs). Here are the next questions, it seems like the Omnimount U3-T is a good choice, can I use this mount on my concrete wall? What is the best way to install it?

The installation kit comes with Lag Bolts and instructions for mounting on masonry. If not sure of the strength of the masonry, I'd get professional advice.

Comments, anyone?

EDIT- The bolts are 3/8", 3 1/2 " long.

I believe you can use any mount (almost) on any wall... the question is what kind of screws / bolts you use.

if you have to ask the question, i would recommend getting it professionally install. Last time I drilled on concrete.. it took me HOURS to drill a few holes...

make sure you get a hammer drill / masonry bits. people may tell you regular drill is fine, but trust me. get a hammer drill.

Anyways, anyone has comment about my questions above??

Closed captioning on HDMI / component input?
Menu shows pixel plus but not pixel plus 2??>

boxtata....... I have the 50" version of this set, and my menu says pixel plus. But according to the specs, it has pixel plus 2. Can't help you with closed captioning because I don't use it.

I have a Philips 42PF9630A/37 with the firmware version BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461 installed. There appears to be a bug in this version. When I power up the TV, the ACTIVE MODE is always reset to MAXIMUM regardless of any earlier setting (MEDIUM, MINIMUM, NONE, etc) previously input to this menu. Has anyone else noticed this? In addition, if the TV always sets the ACTIVE MODE to the MAXIMUM setting, is it then best to set all the other video settings to 50% and let the ACTIVE MODE adjust the picture?

Hey guys,

Considering this Plasma among about 4 others. This has impressive features and good PQ from what I've seen. The one thing that seems to be missing is a "whitewash" or white screen mode for helping rid/prevent image retention. I looked through the manual and can't find a reference. Does anyone know if this has something to get rid of retention or if they have talked about a firmware update for it?

Hey guys,

Considering this Plasma among about 4 others. This has impressive features and good PQ from what I've seen. The one thing that seems to be missing is a "whitewash" or white screen mode for helping rid/prevent image retention. I looked through the manual and can't find a reference. Does anyone know if this has something to get rid of retention or if they have talked about a firmware update for it?
I was never a fan of the whitewash feature of other plasma displays. Whitewashing a plasma can potentially diminish the brightness life of your panel. I always question the whitewashing of a plasma if only to quickly eliminate image retention which is itself just a temporary problem. Additionally, whitewashing does not fix burn in problems.

[QUOTE=jnorlund]Hey guys,

Considering this Plasma among about 4 others. This has impressive features and good PQ from what I've seen. The one thing that seems to be missing is a "whitewash" or white screen mode for helping rid/prevent image retention. I looked through the manual and can't find a reference. Does anyone know if this has something to get rid of retention or if they have talked about a firmware update for it?[/QUOTE

You wont find any Whitewash references. What Philips did incorporate is an Anti aging circuit to help prevent image retention. However nothing takes the place of doing a proper burnin of the unit. :)

I got my 42pf9630a last week and have the hd-a1 connected to it thru HDMI. All HD-DVD movies play fine (incredible picture), but playing sd movies thru hdmi does not work most of the time. I think it might be a handshake issue, I would have to stop the disc and hit play again a couple times before I get a picture.

Anyone else experiencing this problem?

My hd cable box is plugged in via HDMI. Recently when i first turn on the tv the picture comes up for maybe 3 seconds then the tv goes black and has a thin green horizontal line that jumps around. As you all know philips tech support reads right out of the faq so they are no help. This only happens in hdmi. Has anyone experienced this problem?

Thanks
John

My hd cable box is plugged in via HDMI. Recently when i first turn on the tv the picture comes up for maybe 3 seconds then the tv goes black and has a thin green horizontal line that jumps around. As you all know philips tech support reads right out of the faq so they are no help. This only happens in hdmi. Has anyone experienced this problem?

Thanks
John

i hear you man! i had this same problem with my previous 42pf9630a plasma. the one i just exchanged it for (about 6 hours ago) had the hdmi blackout solved, but now the blackout occurs on component from my satelite box. and when it does pass a couple of seconds of picture, the audio cuts out, and the sucker blacks out again.

i don't bother calling tech support since they don't know how to fix it, and just recommend a service center to check it out. looks like i'm going to follow my friend's advice and stay away from philips from now on. at least in regards to plasma's and lcd's. i really wished this set could work since the pq is great. but what good is a great pq, if you can only see it for a couple minutes at the most, before you have to unplug and replug over and over.

i'm sure there are many others with flawless sets, but there are also many with problems. and to me, the cheaper price is not worth the headache of repackaging and returning, then crossing your fingers hoping it will work.....then if it does, crossing your fingers again hoping that it won't screw up later down the line.....even if you do have a great return policy from c0stc0, who wants to spend have their day doing squats by returning and exchanging this set. i sure as heck don't.

Goodness...where to start on all the questions...

Umm...in the menu system it shows up as Pixel Plus (not PP2) on the 9630 (50") and it's big brother. Regardless they all use Pixel Plus 2. Only difference is you have a swivel base, an ethernet port for playing media remotely, and ambilight 2 (which the 9630 can technically have since it does have 2 inverters and it can be activated via the service menu). Maybe after my unit is old and out of warranty I may try swapping the small signal board out for the other one to see if I can add an ethernet port and mp4 playback to my 9630 :) .

The green speckles are digital artifacts from noise reduction, sharpness, screen expansion, digital contrast, etc., etc., etc. When you are the proper distance away from the set you won't see them and trust me turning on all the image enhancement features really does help out on low-def and poor signals. Some of my off-the-air cable channels almost look like digital cable (low quality) with the enhancements on, but this isn't surprising as my high-end JVC S-VHS uses similar digital noise reduction techniques to give dvd-like quality from VHS and SVHS sources. As for proper settings for everything, you should probably get your set calibrated by a pro or at least use Avia, but I can tell you the Philips defaults are WAAAAYYYY too hot. It defaults to 86 on the contrast, I run mine in the low 50's. The brightness defaults to 44 (I think) which is way to dark (can't see stuff in shadows playing HALO). Again I think around low 50's. The darker you can stand it, the less chance of burn in especially during the first 200 hours or so.

Whitewash is useless. Image retention on this set (so far) is practically nil. I say this after having had an LG 50" first and returning it after having "no signal" ghosts all over the screen (I have pictures) from the screen saver it has. It had serious image retention. Sure I'll have the VERY faint 1" lines on the left and right side of the screen from my PS2 (because PS2 underscans most games) after a night of gaming, but it's gone after 5-10 minutes of normal TV watching. Again...keep the contrast down and you won't have burn in. Worst case...if you HAVE to whitewash, take an NTSC white image and save it as a jpeg on a memory card and then display it using the memory card viewer for 30 minutes to an hour. Poor man's whitewash. Personally I don't think you'll ever need it on this set.

For those keeping up with firmware, there have been a couple more releases. The site shows the same firmware date, but if your read the readme you'll see they incremented the firmware revision, added some stuff, and the new date was 5/15/06. They enabled RRT5 which is no surprise since it's mandated. No EPG still. Gemstar TVGuide is still gone.

I got my first black screen of death. Got it playing PS2 through component cables (in 480i mode). My set is only 3 weeks old by the way. This is a firmware problem. My set had barely been on maybe 30 minutes...nothing special. We were playing a game and the screen went black...no sound, no picture. I thought the PS2 crashed and reset it...but it was the TV. Remote wouldn't do anything...TV wouldn't power on or off...waited for maybe 1-2 minutes and the TV rebooted by itself. Considering all the problems everyone is having...the fact that it's across the board (with units using various PDP screens or ambilight assemblies or power supplies), the only thing in common is the CineOS firmware. I seriously think there is a memory leak or bug or something in the firmware OS that is causing the TV to "crash" and reboot causing the black screen. I'm running the last firmware with the TV guide by the way. Oh...speaking of bugs...anyone hooked up the external digital audio cable yet? When my screen is in standby, it cycles through the channels so I hear the audio from the channels changing through my stereo if I leave it on through the optical out...wierd eh? I haven't tried it with the latest firmware so I suspect it has something to do with the Gemstar guide updating channel information.

I wonder why the Philips people took out the Gemstar guide in the latest firmware incarnations. I wonder why they bothered to add USB2 to the set only to play pictures and mp3 when the firmware is capable of playing back mp4 and other video formats over ethernet (on the high-end unit). It would have been nice if I could plug in my 2.5" HD and play hi-def DIVX clips through the USB2 port. Also, since Philips decided to nuke the firewire ports it would be nice if they would put in generic drivers for USB to firewire adapters or USB to ethernet adapters (yeah...I'm dreaming...) or even an official Philips upgrade part to play network video on the 9630 units. The Toshiba units have an external PVR firewire drive that allows you to timeshift HDTV content. It would have been nice if Philips...since they already bothered to put a USB2 port with ATA drivers...had put a simple HDTV timeshifting system in there to simply store the off-the-air ASTC data (no need to reencode)... I guess what I'm saying is this TV has such a great PQ, the ambilight is really nice, and the price is very competitive....with a little thought in firmware design this set could have been ball-crushing :cool:

i hear you man! i had this same problem with my previous 42pf9630a plasma. the one i just exchanged it for (about 6 hours ago) had the hdmi blackout solved, but now the blackout occurs on component from my satelite box. and when it does pass a couple of seconds of picture, the audio cuts out, and the sucker blacks out again.

i don't bother calling tech support since they don't know how to fix it, and just recommend a service center to check it out. looks like i'm going to follow my friend's advice and stay away from philips from now on. at least in regards to plasma's and lcd's. i really wished this set could work since the pq is great. but what good is a great pq, if you can only see it for a couple minutes at the most, before you have to unplug and replug over and over.

i'm sure there are many others with flawless sets, but there are also many with problems. and to me, the cheaper price is not worth the headache of repackaging and returning, then crossing your fingers hoping it will work.....then if it does, crossing your fingers again hoping that it won't screw up later down the line.....even if you do have a great return policy from c0stc0, who wants to spend have their day doing squats by returning and exchanging this set. i sure as heck don't.

Does your 42PF9630A have the latest firmware update from Philips? You might try updating/upgrading the firmware to the latest version and see if that helps.

http://www.usasupport.philips.com/productDocuments.html?ProductCode=42PF9630A/37&SearchByModelNo=true

In addition, did you try powering off both TV and component-connected device and then power them up (TV first). That might help too.

Hope this info helps.

Boxtata - Ooops!!!! Guess I should check the USA specs before commenting...Looks like they removed the ethernet from the USA version of the 50PF9830A (doh!) since it's not mentioned in the manual as being available as a source in the AV menu. Even bigger question though...what firmware revision are you running???? The Gemstar TVGuide was a feature of the 9830 (which you have right?). Did the latest firmware update remove it from your set, too? If not, can you post your feature codes either off the back of your TV or from the service menu. (Actually post them anyway if you don't mind...I'm curious what feature codes a 9830 has compared to a 9630). If they didn't remove Gemstar from the firmware, I'm curious how they turned it off on all sets except the 9830. If they removed it from all sets including the 9830, why didn't they post a note on their website warning 9830 users that the update would remove the guide? In case you don't have it, type in from your remote 123654. When the CSM menu pops up, use the down key on the paddle to go to page 3. Copy the numbers from line 28 and 29 (Options 1 and Options 2) down and post it to the forum. Thanks.

I have a Philips 42PF9630A/37 with the firmware version BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461 installed. There appears to be a bug in this version. When I power up the TV, the ACTIVE MODE is always reset to MAXIMUM regardless of any earlier setting (MEDIUM, MINIMUM, NONE, etc) previously input to this menu. Has anyone else noticed this? In addition, if the TV always sets the ACTIVE MODE to the MAXIMUM setting, is it then best to set all the other video settings to 50% and let the ACTIVE MODE adjust the picture?


The ACTIVE MODE issue now appears to be fixed with firmware version BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471 by Philips.

BTW, has anyone else notice any PQ improvement with all these firmware updates?

Thanks.

Well, i just pulled the trigger and bought this plasma from costco online.
My first plasma, first HDTV, actually first tv that wasnt a hand me down.

Cant freaking wait!!!
Now i've got to figure out where its going to go...

yeah price has dropped like every week and sometimes daily from online merchants and Best Buy recently dropped from the already half decent 2500 to $2000.

I knew this was going to happen because the new version is coming out in July. But didn't want to wait anymore and the timing and price was right for me plus even BB says while supplies last so they are definately getting rid of all supply of this model.

now may be the peak time as the price may not drop much more but supply will just start to run out.

I got a good price that still holds up luckily.

so latest firmware though same version # has some minor updates on 5/15/06 from the 4/19/06 version?

yeah even though on the site it still says 4/19/06. The one I have from before which I though was still the newest is
BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461
and has a readme dated/modified 4/5/06

when you dl the new one it is BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471
so definately a new version and again though on site it still says 4/19/06 the readme is dated/modified 5/15/06
Following improvements are made:
• Channel map changes of the OOB channel table are reflected in the TV's channel map
• Robustness improvement to support streams which have wrongly set Audio Only bit
• Solution for sudden audio drop
• Audio improvement to avoid click in sound in case of high input signal
• Make RRT5 functionality user controllable
• Data only channel are filtered out after installation
• Give priority to SCTE21 above SCTE 20 compliant captions to prevent duplicate characters in the CC text
• Improvement of CC processing on scrambled HD channels

which is all over the previous version so its fairly significant and I wonder why on the site it doesnt' give a you version # until you actually dl it to let you know its new and rather just has the same 4/19/06 date as the last one leaving you to think there hasn't been an update.

Sorry was out for a while. yes, i have the 9830, but I never bother to use the gemstar thing. I remember I did press that button when I first got my TV, but nothing comes out....

I actually connect my STB via HDMI, would the TV guide thingy work this way??

I still didn't get my CC working, though I guess I can get CC from the STB itself.

The network Lan huh, hmmmm I think the connection jack might still be there. How does it work. Can anyone clarify if the LAN thing works in USA? Did philips disable it? or it works but it's just undocumented?

I have bunch of divx in my home network that i would LOVE to play it on my plasma. Anyone else have other ways to do that ? (besides buying a media center PC)
I guess at the minimum i can connect my laptop to the TV via s-video and minijack to RCA sound... but it's just not as graceful.

Anyways, I will check out my TV guide tonite, and I will go to the service menu and post the service code "thingie" tonight.

Thanks, you guys are great help!

Also quick question. I use my 360 and STB in 720P mode (sometimes 1080i), but no matter what I do, it seems like the screen crops the edge out of the picture. (what's the term.. overscan??)

The reason I say this is, you can always press up/down in the remote to adjust the center of the picture, and you can always see some picture hiding away in the edges.

How can I make the image fit EXACTLY (or scale to fit ) to the panel? I know the panel is 1366*768, and not exactly the same natively as the signal. But shouldn't HD input, with the format widescreen be able to display the picture perfectly?

Sorry was out for a while. yes, i have the 9830, but I never bother to use the gemstar thing. I remember I did press that button when I first got my TV, but nothing comes out....

I actually connect my STB via HDMI, would the TV guide thingy work this way??

I still didn't get my CC working, though I guess I can get CC from the STB itself.

The network Lan huh, hmmmm I think the connection jack might still be there. How does it work. Can anyone clarify if the LAN thing works in USA? Did philips disable it? or it works but it's just undocumented?

I have bunch of divx in my home network that i would LOVE to play it on my plasma. Anyone else have other ways to do that ? (besides buying a media center PC)
I guess at the minimum i can connect my laptop to the TV via s-video and minijack to RCA sound... but it's just not as graceful.

Anyways, I will check out my TV guide tonite, and I will go to the service menu and post the service code "thingie" tonight.

Thanks, you guys are great help!

If you press the guide button and it doesn't do anything, then it's disabled on your set to. Funny, but the documentation for your TV on the website has full instructions for setup and using the guide and using the recording features and the remote wands, but it doesn't mention the LAN port anywhere but I see the LAN port advertised all the time as input 8 I think. (UTP or something like that). Theoretically, if you have media server software on your PC and you hook up the ethernet jack and select input 8 it'll let you browse your mp3's, avi's, mp4's, etc. As for the XBOX thing...I have the same problem w/ my DVD player (I can actually use the paddle to move right and left on areas unseen). What's weird is that I can put it in 4:3 mode and do the same thing so I think it is truly information in the "overscan" area that is outside the display resolution area. What's worse...the PS2 games usually underscan so I have 1" borders on the left and right side of the screen and the auto doesn't detect it so it won't stretch...it's not like it's that bad, but after 5-6 hours of gaming it does leave an ever so slight image retention that takes 10-15 minutes of normal TV usage to make go away which worries me if I ever do a weekend binge and play for 20-30 hours. My settings are contrast:50 bright:53 Color:52 Tint:0 Sharp:2. Any darker on the contrast and the screen just looks like a rear projection and any darker on brightness and I can't see the shadows in my games. (It's just bright enough that I can barely see the last moving black bar in Avia...any darker and both black bars are gone).

You can use the Sanus VMPL2b, or VMPL2s with the VMB1b adapter.

I'll be trying that this weekend. :)

Anybody else use this combo yet?

Hey all.

I just purshased this TV set and got it a few days ago (42PF9630A)

everything so far has been good, appart from one little detail i am seeking help on.

I am using a cable box and am set on Av1, and although i adjusted my contrast , brightness settings so that i do not destroy my TV in the first viewing hours, everytime I change channel or turn off / on the TV, it seems like the brightness / contrasts are back to where they were ( 40 and 75).

Also, this is tied with the fact that everytime i start the TV, the Auto Picture thing gets back on the default option, and there is no way to make the change to "personal" permanant.

I updated the firmware, but this didn't help.

If anyone ehas any clue, please help me out. I will be gratefull if someone can tell me how to make my brightness contrast settings be definitive.

Hey there f1maniac...... Here is what to do

1. Go to the Menu

2. Go to setup

3. Select Source in your case AV1

4. Select anything other than digital STB. I have mine on PVR.

5. Select O.K. and exit menu

Your settings should stay the same way you set them. Hope this helps and enjoy your new TV

Hey there f1maniac...... Here is what to do

1. Go to the Menu

2. Go to setup

3. Select Source in your case AV1

4. Select anything other than digital STB. I have mine on PVR.

5. Select O.K. and exit menu

Your settings should stay the same way you set them. Hope this helps and enjoy your new TV


Thank you, this worked as you said

Guess that you end up messing things up when trying to do things right.

OK.. I went to the CSM, and here's the Options line 28/29
05456 00005 01098 08707
00001 00000 00544 00000

so what does that mean???

also, i confirmed i have NNNNNNNOOOO guide.

And can someone confirmed the LAN thing please?

thanks

OK.. I went to the CSM, and here's the Options line 28/29
05456 00005 01098 08707
00001 00000 00544 00000

so what does that mean???

also, i confirmed i have NNNNNNNOOOO guide.

And can someone confirmed the LAN thing please?

thanks

How bizarre...your set has the exact same options enabled as the 50PF9630A. Can you confirm that you actually do have a LAN port on the underside of your system (near the HDMI ports)? According to your options, you only have the following items:

HDM1 w/o analog audio +2
HDMI2 w/o analog audio +8
USB2w/ card +64
1 SPDIF in +1024
Total = +1098

If you have a LAN port, it is not activated in the dealer options menu.

Hm.. let me make sure.. though i would imagine i do have though... one thing though.. my plasma was shipped defective.. so it went into the repair shop...and the repair guy kinda mentioned they have the 9630a panel sitting around and can use that to put it on my 9830a, and they assure me it's the same panel... but i keep the input circuit board, etc as is.. maybe that's why I am getting options like 9630a?? hmmmmm i always wonder if i get "scammed" from the repair...

though even if i have the LAN enabled, I doubt that it can play divx or flv.. so probably still need a media pc somewhere...

but if it's disabled in the dealer option, any way i can enable it?

thanks

Maybe I will flash my FW tonight to find out if it will do anything? Is the FW model specific? or 9830a and 9630a share the same FW?

Sorry, but it's me again. I am just wondering, if I do have the 9630a panel, but with 9830a board. Would I "break" anything if I flash it with the 9830a FW?

What if I have both the panel and board be 9630a parts, would I break anything if I flash it with 9830a FW?

I don't know what the repair guy put in during the repair. I know I have stereo ambilight, and I think the TV menu has the stereo ambilight settings (like the center bias from L to R), so I guess i have the 9830a FW?

Sorry, but it's me again. I am just wondering, if I do have the 9630a panel, but with 9830a board. Would I "break" anything if I flash it with the 9830a FW?

What if I have both the panel and board be 9630a parts, would I break anything if I flash it with 9830a FW?

I don't know what the repair guy put in during the repair. I know I have stereo ambilight, and I think the TV menu has the stereo ambilight settings (like the center bias from L to R), so I guess i have the 9830a FW?

The PDP's are universal on these two. In fact the chassis itself is universal as far as I know as well as 95% of the parts so the repair guy didn't do you worng there though I am seriously surprised they took the effort to replace the PDP since it costs as much as the unit itself not to mention takes a bit to get it out and is a tad risky. Regardless...the firmware is universal for all models (42, 50, both series). The dealer options is where they set up what the model has in it so the firmware knows how to behave. If you do the code again...it will tell you what model it thinks it is as well as the serial number. It should tell you you have a 9830a (stereo ambilight is not on the 9630a). Let me know if you have the ethernet port on the small signal board (next to the HDMI). Also if you didn't mount your unit on the wall, you can look on the back of the unit to get the feature codes and write them down. They should match the codes you gave a few posts back.

OK.. just checked.. NO ethernet port.. even though the manual says it should.. no guide as well.. did went in the CSM and check and it says 50PF9830a/37 alright

Also, I know for a fact that they did change the PDP for me. The panel was shipped with a bar of stuck pixels... first week they just change the board for that corner.. and didn't work.. eventually Philips give up sending cheap parts and I am given a new PDP to put in.. it took a total of 3 weeks to get it fixed and I kept calling the repairman to get update :D

Anyways, I guess back to sq. 1. No CC for HDMI yet. but picture looks great so far. It power off on me a few times for a sec and power back on, even though i have power surge protector.

Other than that, so far so good.

thanks

The PDP's are universal on these two. In fact the chassis itself is universal as far as I know as well as 95% of the parts so the repair guy didn't do you worng there though I am seriously surprised they took the effort to replace the PDP since it costs as much as the unit itself not to mention takes a bit to get it out and is a tad risky. Regardless...the firmware is universal for all models (42, 50, both series). The dealer options is where they set up what the model has in it so the firmware knows how to behave. If you do the code again...it will tell you what model it thinks it is as well as the serial number. It should tell you you have a 9830a (stereo ambilight is not on the 9630a). Let me know if you have the ethernet port on the small signal board (next to the HDMI). Also if you didn't mount your unit on the wall, you can look on the back of the unit to get the feature codes and write them down. They should match the codes you gave a few posts back.

Stereo Ambilight is available on the 9630a. Just turn it on in the service menu. :)

Stereo Ambilight is available on the 9630a. Just turn it on in the service menu. :)

*Laugh* Technically all the features are available from the 9830a on the 9630a through the service manu :D . I just wish I could figure out how to turn on dual tuners...would be nice to watch two TV channels w/o having to use a cable box *laugh*.

*Laugh* Technically all the features are available from the 9830a on the 9630a through the service manu :D . I just wish I could figure out how to turn on dual tuners...would be nice to watch two TV channels w/o having to use a cable box *laugh*.

Actually its the other way around since the 9630a was available much earlier in the model year then the 9830a :)

Actually its the other way around since the 9630a was available much earlier in the model year then the 9830a :)

LOL...Yeah...don't you hate that...same parts, cripple the firmware...sell one for a higher price. Sounds like what LiteOn does with all their DVD Recorders (Many of them are physically the same in every way except for the external case and the crippled firmware).

I just picked up the 42" plasma phillips w/ambilight at BB, open box deal. Question, we want to flat mount on the wall. Has anyone done this, does the cord get in the way of it laying flat? We bought the flattest mount, but I am wondering if we need the one that somes out a few inches. (We will be moving an outlet up to a behind the screen location.

Thanks all! Cant wait to plug this set in, hopefully within 2 weeks (must paint room, new leather home theatre sectional arrives Friday, then we must do the electrical and mounting)

LOL...Yeah...don't you hate that...same parts, cripple the firmware...sell one for a higher price. Sounds like what LiteOn does with all their DVD Recorders (Many of them are physically the same in every way except for the external case and the crippled firmware).

Crippled firmware???? What exactly do you mean by that?

What's up with the recall on the 9630's that has resulted in a 20-25% drop in MSRP at some outlets ?

Is this a bogus issue -- when are the new Philips 42" models/succesor to the 9630 coming out?

Crippled firmware???? What exactly do you mean by that?

The 9630A's big brother is basically the exact same TV except they used the firmware to cripple the stereo ambilight and added a glass stand. That's what I mean...they use an assembly line to manufacture the same TV sets and then use firmware and a handful of accessories to make a "high-end" model and a "low-end" model and sell one for a higher price even though it's the same freakin' TV. If we hadn't found the service menu and the repair guide, we wouldn't know that would we?

LiteOn does the same thing with the DVD recorders. A 5001 shares the same innards as a 5005 but one can write to +R only, the other does +/- and CD-R writing. You can crossflash a 5001 into a 5005 and it will behave in every way as a 5005. Same thing with a 5002 to a 5006 and so on and so forth. They manufacture a boatload of the same units and then cripple some via firmware and sell them as "entry level" even though the only thing different is the external chassis and the firmware. Once tricked into accepting the higher-end flash, they behave just like the higher-end unit. More and more manufacturers are doing this because it saves cost to make everything on one assembly line and then use the firmware to cripple the unit to give you your entry, mid, and high-end units.

I did not visit this forum for quite some time, but now I have this recall issue. I found it on the Philips' website, contacted them about 7 weeks ago but still no one came to do the repare. They can't find anyone to do it in my area. More precisely, they found some service but can't agree on some issues. So, this service agreed to come, then postponed it twice, now Philips is looking for some way out, but it was a week ago since they talked to me. I just never use the ambilight (my wife does not like it). I understand that hten there is no problem?

I have another issue, happeneing once in a while: I (actually, my wife) watches it 4 -5 hours a day. An, it was now, like 3-4 times, when the picture goes blank and sound disappears,

I did not visit this forum for quite a while and am coming back with some issues hoping to get some advice.

Recall: Philips is not able to do it for 7 weeks now. But if I don't use the ambilight, I suppose I am OK? (they can't resolve some issues with the service center, the last call I had from Philips was a week ago).

The TV is working for 4-5 hours a day and I had now 3 or 4 times, after 2.5-3.5 hrs of watching (actually, it is my wife who watches it), when the screen went blank, no sound AND it does not react to remote at all. Then, after, I don't know 2-3 minutes, it is back to normall. Does anyone have anything like this?

Thanks

EDIT

PatMcNJ wrote:


Question, we want to flat mount on the wall. Has anyone done this, does the cord get in the way of it laying flat?

You mean "Hang"? The Omnimount I used leaves about 2 1/4". A little difficult to get to the standard A/V connections, no problem with HDMI and others on bottom. I don't believe you can get it any closer unless you were to recess it. The power cord is on the bottom, that's no problem.

hey guys,

just wanted to know for all that are using ota hd channels; are your preferred channels settings being saved? i've just hooked up mine, and i went into the "preferred channels" setting to delete the analog signals i don't want, and keep the hd ones. i exit out of the menu, and use the channel up and down buttons, and all is fine. thing is everytime i turn my set off, then back on, my "preferred channels" aren't saved. meaning when i push the up or down channel buttons on my remote, the analog channels are back.

i've upgraded to the latest firmware, but still no luck. everything else is great. can any of you that are using an hd antenna confirm that this is normal or not? thanks.

I did not visit this forum for quite a while and am coming back with some issues hoping to get some advice.

Recall: Philips is not able to do it for 7 weeks now. But if I don't use the ambilight, I suppose I am OK? (they can't resolve some issues with the service center, the last call I had from Philips was a week ago).

The TV is working for 4-5 hours a day and I had now 3 or 4 times, after 2.5-3.5 hrs of watching (actually, it is my wife who watches it), when the screen went blank, no sound AND it does not react to remote at all. Then, after, I don't know 2-3 minutes, it is back to normall. Does anyone have anything like this?

Thanks
The recall is regarding any possible electrical arcing in the Ambilight lamp units. If you don't use Ambilight then you shouldn't worry. I would worry that I don't have a 100% quality TV even if I don't use the Ambilight.

The black screen and no response is otherwise known here as the "Black Screen of Death". Many of us have experienced it. Some say it is the TV going into protective mode after experiencing a power variation beyond tolerance levels, others say it is a firmware issue.

The recall is regarding any possible electrical arcing in the Ambilight lamp units. If you don't use Ambilight then you shouldn't worry. I would worry that I don't have a 100% quality TV even if I don't use the Ambilight.

The black screen and no response is otherwise known here as the "Black Screen of Death". Many of us have experienced it. Some say it is the TV going into protective mode after experiencing a power variation beyond tolerance levels, others say it is a firmware issue.

Thanks. It is really helpful. Regarding recall, I am not giving up, just I don't know when Philips will fix it. The repare is clearly not my problem (expense) - so I am just wating ...

roro5pm-
I have the same problem (not saving the preferred channels) with my cablecard setup with this tv.

roro5pm-
I have the same problem (not saving the preferred channels) with my cablecard setup with this tv.

thanks mlandau for the response. yeah it seems that my "preferred channels" with my cable (no box) aren't saving after a power off and back on either. i asked my brother-in-law since he has the 50inch version, and same thing!! what's the point in philips even putting this feature on there if it doesn't save after a power off?

I will ask Philips support about this.

I got this this Plasma this weekend and loving it so far. Just a quick tip to those owners looking for a nice slideshow: The cd that comes with it has a slideshow on it under the FILES/SLIDESHW DIRECTORY. Use the "others" file as it has the 1366x768 files that fill the screen. Copy the whole OTHERS folder to your choice of portable media (CF, SD, etc) with no other directory. One last thing, change the "start.alb.bin" file to only a "start.alb" file. Then run it from the "my media" section of the menu. (Button on the remote with a music note on it). Choose the start.alb file to play and viola, you have a slideshow with some pretty great images that will loop indefinitely with music until you stop it.

P.s. Not the greatest breakin method since TV picture settings don't apply to these nice bright images.

I've noticed, on the Philips technical support website for the 42PF9630A, that the firmware updates seem to have rolled back to an earlier version. The firmware update(s) no longer reference version BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471, but only now only contain updates through the BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461 version. Has anyone else noticed this? Has a serious problem been discovered with the BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471 version of the firmware? My 42PF9630A TV has the 1.2.0.0 firmware, but otherwise appears to work fine.

I've noticed, on the Philips technical support website for the 42PF9630A, that the firmware updates seem to have rolled back to an earlier version. The firmware update(s) no longer reference version BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471, but only now only contain updates through the BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461 version. Has anyone else noticed this? Has a serious problem been discovered with the BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471 version of the firmware? The TV otherwise appears to work fine.

Are you sure? I downloaded and installed 01471 just yesterday. I see no ref on their site, but the txt file with the download clearly mentions 01471.

EDIT-- You're correct. I opened the upgrade now posted and it is for 01461, even the date matches.

The 9630A's big brother is basically the exact same TV except they used the firmware to cripple the stereo ambilight and added a glass stand. That's what I mean...they use an assembly line to manufacture the same TV sets and then use firmware and a handful of accessories to make a "high-end" model and a "low-end" model and sell one for a higher price even though it's the same freakin' TV. If we hadn't found the service menu and the repair guide, we wouldn't know that would we?

LiteOn does the same thing with the DVD recorders. A 5001 shares the same innards as a 5005 but one can write to +R only, the other does +/- and CD-R writing. You can crossflash a 5001 into a 5005 and it will behave in every way as a 5005. Same thing with a 5002 to a 5006 and so on and so forth. They manufacture a boatload of the same units and then cripple some via firmware and sell them as "entry level" even though the only thing different is the external chassis and the firmware. Once tricked into accepting the higher-end flash, they behave just like the higher-end unit. More and more manufacturers are doing this because it saves cost to make everything on one assembly line and then use the firmware to cripple the unit to give you your entry, mid, and high-end units.


Philips is doing exactly what others manufacturers have done with various models, Panny etc. but to a lesser degree. At least the hardware is built in to accomplish the task, no missing HDMI's etc. left only for the higher priced models. If you read back to some of the earlier posts on this thread its been discussed at length. When I first discovered the service manual (August 05)on a now defunct Philips webpage it became apparent that the 9630a was a bargain for just the reason you stated. Heck the PDP was never advertised as being stereo ambilight capable but is so thats another bonus! :) And yes you need to be savvy when you buy anything that goes without saying. Its always buyer beware. And its the capabilites of the PDP that makes it such a great bargain as well as the picture quality. As far as the firmware upgrades I think its great. Philips has released more than any other major manufacturer in an attempt to resolve issues. I have installed every upgrade since the first ones in August of 2005 and never had a problem. I currently own two Plasmas and one LCD for the bedroom and we find the Philips the best of the lot by far . :) HOpe you enjoy your Plasma as much as I do.

any one in here have philips 50PF9830A/37 what are your thoughts,opinions? is this set better than the panasonic TH-50PX60U?

Ok, ive read most of this thread and i think this is the tv for me. Couple questions first though.
1. I have heard that this tv has more negatives than others when using component instead of hdmi, true?
2. Some local stores are phasing this tv out and have told me they expect a new model from philips soon, does anyone have more info on this or should i just pull the trigger on this one?
Thanks!

Ok, ive read most of this thread and i think this is the tv for me. Couple questions first though.
1. I have heard that this tv has more negatives than others when using component instead of hdmi, true?
2. Some local stores are phasing this tv out and have told me they expect a new model from philips soon, does anyone have more info on this or should i just pull the trigger on this one?
Thanks!

The TV manufacturers seem to be operating like auto manufacturers and bring out a "new and improved" model every year.

I have had good luck with the component inputs to the 42PF9630A. The HDMI inputs appear to be the best though. I originally had the cable box and Sony DVD recorder connected via component and/or S-video. I recently bought a Panasonic DMR-ES25S DVD recorder and returned my Comcast DCT6412 phase II cable box for a newer phase III one. Both devices have HDMI outputs. That seems to yield better PQ. In addition there is only one HDMI output cable per device vs four or five output cables for component video. In my experience, the S-video appears to have less PQ compared to the other connections with this TV, although I wouldn't call it "bad".

If you do get this TV, download the latest firmware from the Philips website and flash the TV with it. There has been a recall for this Philips line of TV's, but it mostly affects the 50 inch models. You might also consider turning down the brightness to around 50% or less and the contrast to 60% or less during the first 100 hours of use to help prevent burn-in.

I never see image retention with normal viewing (and avoiding channels with a "stock ticker" display on the screen). The only other time have I seen some slight image retention is when the cable box is OFF and the 42PF9630A is ON with no image input (i.e. floating with a neutral/black screen), but it always disappear after later powering the TV off at night and then on the next day.

Hope this helps.

any one in here have philips 50PF9830A/37 what are your thoughts,opinions? is this set better than the panasonic TH-50PX60U?

There has been a recall issued for the Philips line of TVs that mostly affects the 50 inch models. You might want to get some verification from your vendor that the TV you get from their stock is not affected by the recall. If you do buy a Philips TV, then be sure to check their technical support website for firmware updates.

From what I have read, most "professional" on-line reviewers consistently rate the Panasonics higher than the Philips if one goes strictly by the numbers. PQ is in the eye of the beholder though! I found not much PQ difference between most HDTV plasmas when receiving HD signals. There is more of a PQ difference among the HDTV plasmas when they display SD signals. IMHO, the Panasonics seem to display a slightly sharper image vs a slightly smoother image for the Philips. This sometimes can make certain images look slightly "harsh" on the Panasonic. The Philips has more input connections. Both have good color and contrast. Reviewers report that the Panasonics display the best black levels, though I also read that the Philips displays good black levels too.

I've recently uploaded (downloaded on 5/24/06 from Philips) the latest firmware and now I have lost the TV Guide function. I've gone back to the service menu (062596 - info) and can't seem to turn it back on, or maybe I just can't remember how....anyone else have this problem?

The TVGOS portion has been removed from recent firmwares. It seems that they're working on a different system.

:( So no more TV guide?

What is the last firmware with TVGOS?

I've noticed, on the Philips technical support website for the 42PF9630A, that the firmware updates seem to have rolled back to an earlier version. The firmware update(s) no longer reference version BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471, but only now only contain updates through the BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461 version. Has anyone else noticed this? Has a serious problem been discovered with the BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471 version of the firmware? My 42PF9630A TV has the 1.2.0.0 firmware, but otherwise appears to work fine.

Not sure, but since I upgraded to 01471, it seems that my TV channels are a lot darker than my other inputs. I had to crank the brightness up to 80 for the blacks to look right. I double-checked my DVD input (component) and set it right back down to mid-50's. Could also be that Time Warner messed something up on their end, too... I also had a wierd instance where I turned on the TV and the image was offset (part of the left side was on the right side and a nasty flickering vertical green bar splitting it) on all the coax channels. I turned the set off and back on and the problem hasn't happened again. I wonder if they found some bugs... At least the newer firmwares (since the last one with TVGOS) seemed to have gotten rid of the "stutter" on my HD channels and I haven't had any more black screen crashes.

I noticed on my set that 480i component was way washed out compared to anything else (composite, S-Video, HDMI or the tuner). But when I switched the DVD player to 480p blacks were corrected. I figured it was just my crummy old DVD player, but maybe not...

I just bought and hooked up this TV. The only problem is that my Hi-def channels are not coming in in hi-def. Actually, the only difference between the hi-def channels and their regular counterparts is that the hi-def channels all have grey horizontal bars across the top and bottom of the screen ( I can get rid of these by changing my format setting to widescreen 16:9, but I thought that leaving it in "automatic" should take care of that), otherwise, the pictures are exactly the same. .

I imagine that there is something really simple that I'm missing. Please help!

I just bought and hooked up this TV. The only problem is that my Hi-def channels are not coming in in hi-def. Actually, the only difference between the hi-def channels and their regular counterparts is that the hi-def channels all have grey horizontal bars across the top and bottom of the screen ( I can get rid of these by changing my format setting to widescreen 16:9, but I thought that leaving it in "automatic" should take care of that), otherwise, the pictures are exactly the same. .

I imagine that there is something really simple that I'm missing. Please help!
Can you tell us what your setup is?

Ok, ive read most of this thread and i think this is the tv for me. Couple questions first though.
1. I have heard that this tv has more negatives than others when using component instead of hdmi, true?
2. Some local stores are phasing this tv out and have told me they expect a new model from philips soon, does anyone have more info on this or should i just pull the trigger on this one?
Thanks!

I had my 9630a initially connected via component and had no problem viewing cable and dvds. However I really enjoy the improvement in the pic quality using the HDMI inputs and would never go back. If I was shopping right now for a Philips PDP I would wait just a little bit longer and take a look at the new models there are always improvements in the newer generations.Hey dont get me wrong I am extremely satisifed with my 9630a but at this late date in the model year I would go for the newest technology.

Can you tell us what your setup is?

Uhhh, I'm kind of a rookie, so not really. :o

I didn't buy any additional wires, just those provided by Time Warner, and I dont have anything else going on, other than an XBox connection, which is working fine.

Stereo Ambilight is available on the 9630a. Just turn it on in the service menu. :)

how do you open the service menu to enable stereo ambilight on the 42pf9630A?

What's up with the recall on the 9630's that has resulted in a 20-25% drop in MSRP at some outlets ?

Is this a bogus issue -- when are the new Philips 42" models/succesor to the 9630 coming out?


the recall was an old thing on certain model #'s an electrical thing with the ambilights like shorting out or something i forget but it was mentioned on this thread i believe with links showing which model #'s.

the drop in price on these every week for the last couple months is because the new version is coming out in July not due to any recall.

they want to get rid of all the old ones. even best buy dropped it to $2000 which I couldn't believe as I only paid a couple hundred less then that on a super great deal online. but even best buys ad says while warehouse supplies last. they're getting rid of them.

That is why I got this set. The new version just has lights above and below the screen in addition to the sides, I did not think I will need want or like that especially not for $4000 so i got the 42pf9630A for under 2000 and am happy at that price and try not to look at the continuing price drop so i dont have buyers remorse or wich i waited longer.

i got lots of enjoyment out of it already and wanted it a certain time to coincide with other redecorating in the bedroom and new piece of furniture it was being mounted on but yeah its prob cheaper now damnt, heh.

I've noticed, on the Philips technical support website for the 42PF9630A, that the firmware updates seem to have rolled back to an earlier version. The firmware update(s) no longer reference version BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471, but only now only contain updates through the BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461 version. Has anyone else noticed this? Has a serious problem been discovered with the BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471 version of the firmware? My 42PF9630A TV has the 1.2.0.0 firmware, but otherwise appears to work fine.


that is worrisome. without checking the exact version # if you are talking about the latest firmware that we all noticed was put up in May though on the site it still said updated in April but we saw once downloaded it was a new version. I have it but never flashed it to the tv yet.

i guess i'll hold off now as if they rolled it back, the latest one must have had a problem? or was it just accidentally released early and then taken back?

Ok, ive read most of this thread and i think this is the tv for me. Couple questions first though.
1. I have heard that this tv has more negatives than others when using component instead of hdmi, true?
2. Some local stores are phasing this tv out and have told me they expect a new model from philips soon, does anyone have more info on this or should i just pull the trigger on this one?
Thanks!


1. use hdmi if you can.

2. stop using the phrase pull the trigger as someone mentioned it is on the list of overused tiresome phrases or something, heh. Yes a new model is coming out in July with ambilight above and below in addtion to the sides.

yes just get the current one now at its lowest price ever before there is no more left because they are getting rid of stock for the new one , unless you wan tto pay $4000 more hten double what you can get the current one for just to have ambilight above and below which i think crowds the set and picture too much.
and not sure if you can turn the top and bottom ones off and just leave the sides or if its just all or nothing.

how do you open the service menu to enable stereo ambilight on the 42pf9630A?
Check out post #461 on page 16 of this forum.

Uhhh, I'm kind of a rookie, so not really. :o

I didn't buy any additional wires, just those provided by Time Warner, and I dont have anything else going on, other than an XBox connection, which is working fine.
Now that you mentioned Time Warner, you may have a Scientific Atlanta cable box. First, make sure that your model cable box (if it is indeed an SA model) is an HD cable box. You will know it is an HD version if the model number ends with HD (4200HD or 8300HD).

Next, make sure you are connecting the cable box to your TV via HD methods (component or HDMI).

Finally, make sure the cable box is passing along the HD signals via the cable box HD setup. Contact your cable company to find out how to enter the cable box HD setup.

From the sounds of it, I would presume that you are not connecting your cable box via HD methods. My guess is that you are connecting via SVideo, composite, or even RF. I would need more info from your setup to help you further. Good luck.

After reading every post on this forum (and many in others), I’m convinced this is the set for me. My next decision is whether to buy the 9630A at great prices now or wait until the new model. Hmmm. :rolleyes:

Thanks to all posters as this forum in great. I’ve a question if anyone has experience similar.

My current set up is RCN cable through a Moto DCT 2100 – standard cable with digital tier but not HD and STB has s-video out. My cable package has all available premium movie channels as well as subscription video on demand (SVOD) for those premiums. I use SVOD a lot; I never use pay-per-view or pay VOD. I also use PIP frequently as my current set has two tuners. So I split the cable at the wall with one leg to the STB and one to the antenna input. With my current set I can watch two TV channels, any channel through the STB, with PIP being any analog channel via the coax antenna input.

I can upgrade to an HD cable box for $10/month or go cable card for $1.50 per month. My question is:

1) Since I get all the premium movie channels and their SVODs, plus TV programming guide, etc., through the current STB, was wondering about keeping the current STB as an AV input and adding a cable card for the HD channels and to get correct channel mapping. I’d take the cable leg that now goes direct to the TV and attach it to a cable card for the new Philips. Anyone tried anything like that?

My thinking is with a cable card for $1.50/month I can get HD for the new Philips that would include available HD channels plus the HD channel of each of my premium channels. Since cable cards are not two-way, I’d keep the current STB to get all the VOD stuff plus programming guide etc. As none of the subscription channels are HD I don’t seem to lose anything this way and gain HD. If this works, I’d save about $120/year.

Oh, if cable card worked OK why not just use the card and turn in the STB? I’ve got a bundled package that includes STB rental. If I “break” the bundle, my pricing shifts to “a la carte” and becomes more expensive. No problem adding a cable card though.

Anyway, appreciate any thoughts here.

Cheers, Jim

Hey guys and gals,
Since I am nearing the end of my one year warranty, I want to get this issue resolved (if in fact it is an issue :rolleyes: ). I've reported this problem before but never got a firm answer, so here goes.

I use HDMI for TV (DirecTV) and DVD connections. On all HDTV programming, there is a clear pixelation (large boxes) or false contouring in the red/brown shades in the background or on faces. It is especially noticable in dim lighting. I thought it was the signal quality, but when I watch a commercial (not downloaded) DVD of TV shows (Grey's Anatomy, or House), I get the same thing. I have an LG upconverting DVD and have everything set to 720p. Nothing else is wrong with this set and I've enjoyed it alot. I just don't want my warranty to expire without clarifying this. Any thoughts?

BTW, I phoned Philips and they directed me to my local service rep. The local rep told me they will have to take the set in to their shop for 2-3 weeks as they do not do any home service. That is total BS. What am I supposed to do for that time? Is that common, or should I yell and shout?

Thanks.

1. use hdmi if you can.

2. stop using the phrase pull the trigger as someone mentioned it is on the list of overused tiresome phrases or something, heh. Yes a new model is coming out in July with ambilight above and below in addtion to the sides.

yes just get the current one now at its lowest price ever before there is no more left because they are getting rid of stock for the new one , unless you wan tto pay $4000 more hten double what you can get the current one for just to have ambilight above and below which i think crowds the set and picture too much.
and not sure if you can turn the top and bottom ones off and just leave the sides or if its just all or nothing.

According to what Philips showed at CES the new 42 inch Plasma , the 9631 succesor to the 9630a, was estimated to have a MSRP of $2499.

to alcortez0326,

I actually do have the 50pf9830a/37. I like the look of philips more with the glass stand, and it matches my living room nicely (my coffee table has those white glass as well)

compare with the panny, you will really have to go to BB or something to check it out. I went out a few times before I buy, and I find the PQ is either about the same, or the Panny slightly better.. depends on how the BB connect the input...

but philips has slightly better feature and i love the ambilight effect..

so i was torn between the two for a long time.. until i found that the 9830a price dropped like crazy in outlet / refurb websites... and it's even cheaper than 9630a now.. so the price difference makes it a no brainer for me. (too bad it shipped defective.. and the warranty has to eventually replaced the whole PDP for me.. but then i am told i have a completely new PDP... so it works out for me.. i paid refurb price, but got a new panel to watch :D)

now that i have it.. have cable connected with hdmi.. 360 via component.. and i can honestly say i am happy with the screen so far..

i think you can get any of the big name plasma... and you would be equally satisfied no matter what you end up getting.

thanks

Hey guys and gals,
BTW, I phoned Philips and they directed me to my local service rep. The local rep told me they will have to take the set in to their shop for 2-3 weeks as they do not do any home service. That is total BS. What am I supposed to do for that time? Is that common, or should I yell and shout?
A lot of local service reps insist on taking the unit to their shops because of possible working space and safety issues. I had to convince my local rep that I had adequate space before they would do in-house service. But in my case, it was a recall issue and the problem/solution was already known. Trying to diagnose a problem in-house can be problematic.

Hey guys, I am pretty new to this stuff so sorry if this sounds stupid. I have a Sony progressive scan dvd player hooked up to the Philips via s-video cable. I have setup the DVD player to 16:9 and set the TV to widscreen mode. How come there are still black bars on top and bottom when watching 16:9 DVDs? I thought the reason for 16:9 tv is to get rid of the black bars? The only way to get rid of the bars is to set it to 'expand 16:9' mode but that stretches the image vertically.

1st thing, connect your DVD via Component Cables. You can find decent cable for pretty cheap now. Plus progressive scan only applies to the component connection (or HDMI if available)

2nd, are you sure your DVD is 16:9? Most DVDs aren't actually 16:9, they are wider and you will still get black bars on the top and bottom. Look on the back case of the DVD it should give you the aspect ratio. 1.78:1 is 16:9 (many times anamorphic 1.85:1 will also fill up the entire 16:9 screen) anything larger (2.35:1, 2.78:1) will give you black bars.

1st thing, connect your DVD via Component Cables. You can find decent cable for pretty cheap now. Plus progressive scan only applies to the component connection (or HDMI if available)
So the cables has nothing to do with the black bars and only affects progressive scan? $60 for some Monster component cables decent or $50 for Acoustic Research decent?

2nd, are you sure your DVD is 16:9? Most DVDs aren't actually 16:9, they are wider and you will still get black bars on the top and bottom. Look on the back case of the DVD it should give you the aspect ratio. 1.78:1 is 16:9 (many times anamorphic 1.85:1 will also fill up the entire 16:9 screen) anything larger (2.35:1, 2.78:1) will give you black bars.
1.78 is just 16 divided by 9 right? So the bigger the number (ex. 2.35) the more vertical lines per horizontal lines? You are right, most of my DVDs are bigger than 1.78:1 causing the black bars. Why don't they make 1.78:1 dvds to get rid of the black bars? It's stupid because alot of times, the subtitle aren't even in the black bars but on the picture.

$60 for some Monster component cables decent or $50 for Acoustic Research decent?

Absolutely Not! There are good ones for a fraction. One online site is Shopjavaco.com. Their best runs about $8.00 for 6'. I'm sure you can find other sites just as inexpensive. They may not have the fancy packaging and hype but I've found them to be more than adequate. That also applies to the HDMI cables I've purchased.

So just picked up my tv today and got a great deal on it! DVDs look awesome and so does over the air HD. My only complaint is that SD looks like complete crap, almost unwatchable. I knew that regular cable would be bad, but this bad?!?!? I have standard cable running into the back of my tv, would getting a digital box help or am is standard def just that bad?

Just posted this in another philips thread, but noticed it wasnt for ambilight...

Well, I have decided to keep the Philips... had been getting the BS issue lately... Anyway, exchanging it for a new one when BB gets it in stock from the warehouse. Now I just have to figure out how to hook my mac up to it like I had planned. (for a screensaver effect only, not using the pc with it)

2 things for you guys with the Philips... does your power button on the tv "click" when you push it, like the way all the others do next to it? Mine doesnt click, it is odd, more like a "hard push". Wondering if thats a bad switch.

Also, which may or may not be a cause, on the ambilight, do you notice the black screen only with the lights on? Or just anytime. Both times I got the BS, my lights were on... Just a thought.

bonehead848 - I just got mine too. Best Buy has it on sale for $1999. I also had a 12% coupon for memorial weekend. Came out to only $1900 w/ tax. My friend bought one for even cheaper on a open box. I agree, DVDs look awsome with the component cables (thanks for the tip flynbw01). Most regular TV channels look like crap. I have it just hooked up to the antanna for now until I move to my new place. I find 'superzoom' mode work very well for 4:3 programming.

epluth - What is this black screen problem you have? Do you get a black screen while watching tv or dvd? Have you tried updating to the latest firmware?

mystic... yeah, the BS issue is well known... and seems to be not fixable with new firmware yet... I just purchased this set 2 weeks ago, and it has the latest firmware. We will be watching tv or dvd, and once in a GREAT while the set will "reset" or turn itself off then on very quickly. I have seen maybe 15 people in the forum have the same thing happen with the ambilight models. Still trying to get to the bottom of it.

Oh, and just wait til you lose the antenna... cable or dish will look great compared to what you are seeing. And HD is amazing on these units.

SD is bearable as long as you use some of the enhancement modes such as setting DNR to medium or max and Pixel Plus 2 to "on". Yeah...it looks like crap when you get right up on it, but if you go look at your 27" TV from 1' away you'll see it looks like crap on it. We have a 50" in the den and sit probably 10' away from the set so SD looks about the same as it did on a regular TV. What's cool is set up your favorites for a SD QAM channel and it's HD QAM mate and then flip back and forth. I was watching the NBA game and it's like night and day going from SD to HD. I just wish there were more HD stations other than locals, discovery, and PBS.

Oh, and just wait til you lose the antenna... cable or dish will look great compared to what you are seeing. And HD is amazing on these units.

So you don't see any pixelation or false contouring in dimly lit backgrounds (indoors) or on closeup face shots? If my set is the only one that has this problem on HD channels, I will feel comfortable handing it over to the service rep when he finally shows up.

Hey, just had a thought. Could this problem be related to some setting that I've ignored. Thanks for any input.

Philips has got HDMI?

yes mine has 2 rupi

also, noahhadas, wothout reading up, I have the 42" lcd version of the ambilight. I am not an Enthusiast, but am a stickler for nice things...so that said, HD is absolutely stunning. No clay face or anything.

Hi Guys,

I'm in the market for LCD/Plasma at 40" or 42" as well, and am thinking of the 42PF9631D (european version)

I see that this machine only supports 1024x768 as highest resolution from a PC - is there *any way* to do a 1:1 pixel perfect mapping on this machine? I saw the smaller version of this screen and it's outperforming LCD's...

If no 1:1 is possible, can I at least select 1024*768 and tell the computer somehow that it is 16:9 (anamorphic?) so that DVD's and video are played back perfectly? Thanks!

Thanks for all info, you can always PM or if you have more info!

Hi Guys,

I'm in the market for LCD/Plasma at 40" or 42" as well, and am thinking of the 42PF9631D (european version)

I see that this machine only supports 1024x768 as highest resolution from a PC - is there *any way* to do a 1:1 pixel perfect mapping on this machine? I saw the smaller version of this screen and it's outperforming LCD's...

If no 1:1 is possible, can I at least select 1024*768 and tell the computer somehow that it is 16:9 (anamorphic?) so that DVD's and video are played back perfectly? Thanks!

Thanks for all info, you can always PM or if you have more info!


Yes, you can do 1:1 pixel perfect and use zoomplayer or other player capable of adjusting the aspect ratio.

Hey guys, quick question:

I just paid $120 for HDMI cables which I have yet to open the package. I currently have a component hook-up. Is the difference with the HDMI cables worth the extra 100+ bucks? On the one hand, I can return them as I can always use some more cash...on the other hand, after buying a $2500 TV, what' sanother $100 if it makes a difference.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.

Hey guys, quick question:

I just paid $120 for HDMI cables which I have yet to open the package. I currently have a component hook-up. Is the difference with the HDMI cables worth the extra 100+ bucks? On the one hand, I can return them as I can always use some more cash...on the other hand, after buying a $2500 TV, what' sanother $100 if it makes a difference.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.
Return that cable and get an hdmi off of monoprice.com for 1/10 of the price.

I have a question that may be dumb but i cant find the answer anywhere. Is there any way i can hook up both regular cable (w/o a box) and an antenna to this tv? And does everyone elses ambilight suck on green? For some reason no matter what setting its on i never get a green light.

Im realitely new to the HDTV game myself but i did a lot of research on this very issue and ultimately went with some cheap cables i brought off ebay. they work extremely well I have no problems with it. A BB salesman told me that all hdmi cables do the same basic job and your paying for the name mainly. if i was going to run longer cablers (30 ft) i'd go with the expensive stuff but since im not running anythign that long. I would buy cheaper HDMI cables and call it the day.

Hey guys, quick question:

I just paid $120 for HDMI cables which I have yet to open the package. I currently have a component hook-up. Is the difference with the HDMI cables worth the extra 100+ bucks? On the one hand, I can return them as I can always use some more cash...on the other hand, after buying a $2500 TV, what' sanother $100 if it makes a difference.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.

I RECENTLY PURCHASED THE Philips 42PF9630A HD Plasma TV and can someone tell me what are the ideal settings (or the one they think is perfect) that they use in regards to the color, contrast, etc.. etc). i mainly watch dvd's and haven't found that sweet spot of the ideal settings. I understand everyone has their own taste but whatever you can offer would be helpful. thanks

Hey guys, quick question:

I just paid $120 for HDMI cables which I have yet to open the package. I currently have a component hook-up. Is the difference with the HDMI cables worth the extra 100+ bucks? On the one hand, I can return them as I can always use some more cash...on the other hand, after buying a $2500 TV, what' sanother $100 if it makes a difference.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.

I agree with Bonehead. No need to spend that kind of money. Take them back. I got 10' for $15.99 at Javaco.com. Use the extra cash for other goodies.

I have a question that may be dumb but i cant find the answer anywhere. Is there any way i can hook up both regular cable (w/o a box) and an antenna to this tv?

Bonehead848, I don't have the answer, but I remember it being talked about earlier in this thread. I think it was a few months ago, but someone was talking about this, and I think they ended up calling Phillips to ask, but I don't remember the outcome, sorry.

man, now that i have noticed this, it is really bugging me. My ambilight never displays green. I know it can because in the settings i can set it to green but when it is in other modes it never does green. Even when the screen is all green it just looks white, other than that it works fine. Does anyone elses tv do this?

man, now that i have noticed this, it is really bugging me. My ambilight never displays green. I know it can because in the settings i can set it to green but when it is in other modes it never does green. Even when the screen is all green it just looks white, other than that it works fine. Does anyone elses tv do this?
I hate to say it but perhaps it is a logic board problem? Have you checked the error codes in the service menu? These codes would tell you if there is a hardware problem. If your TV is part of the recall, you will probably have this problem fixed if you perform the recall since the recall requires the replacement of the entire Ambilight unit.

I would call Philips customer service if your TV is still under warranty.

I have a question that may be dumb but i cant find the answer anywhere. Is there any way i can hook up both regular cable (w/o a box) and an antenna to this tv?

Since there is only one 75ohm input, i would think you'd have to use an A/B splitter. If you have a Home theater receiver, it may have more than one 75ohm input. You can then output to the TV from that using composite.

I RECENTLY PURCHASED THE Philips 42PF9630A HD Plasma TV and can someone tell me what are the ideal settings (or the one they think is perfect) that they use in regards to the color, contrast, etc.. etc). i mainly watch dvd's and haven't found that sweet spot of the ideal settings. I understand everyone has their own taste but whatever you can offer would be helpful. thanks

In the first 100 hours of use, I ran my Philips at 45% brightness, 55% to 60% contrast, and 45% color. Now, I personally run mine at 50% brightness, 65% contrast, & 47% color.

Also see an earlier posting in this thread on this subject thread: #1553 and #1554.

I hate to say it but perhaps it is a logic board problem? Have you checked the error codes in the service menu? These codes would tell you if there is a hardware problem. If your TV is part of the recall, you will probably have this problem fixed if you perform the recall since the recall requires the replacement of the entire Ambilight unit.

I would call Philips customer service if your TV is still under warranty.
How do you know if you TV is part of the recall? I just got mine a week ago.

How do you know if you TV is part of the recall? I just got mine a week ago.
either look at the phillips support website for this tv or just search this thread for recall

I am looking to calibrate my 42" 9630a/37 what is the best way to do this? has anyone here gone with a certified ifs calibrator can this tv allow for each input to be calibrated??? what about grey scale calibration any info very helpful

man, now that i have noticed this, it is really bugging me. My ambilight never displays green. I know it can because in the settings i can set it to green but when it is in other modes it never does green. Even when the screen is all green it just looks white, other than that it works fine. Does anyone elses tv do this?

I checked mine and it does green just fine. I've seen it when the preview screen on a DVD came up (green screen saying this preview has been approved for all audiences...blah...blah...blah) and I've seen it on outside seens with lots of vegetation. My system has been altered to do stereo Ambilight (via service menu), I've got the balance set for center, seperation as max, and using the "action" setting. I've got the 50PF9630A/37.

Man I've been AWOL from this thread for a while thanks to work, but wanted to chime in...

If you're having problems with the greens, time to call customer support. I watched some golf last weekend no problem, lots of rich greens on the wall.

Also, my TV was part of the infamous Ambilight recall. The techs came out and took care of replacing the Ambilight components in about an hour. Pretty painless other than the 11 billion screws that had to be pulled to open the thing up.

Those of you still thinking about this one, jump on it. Great price at Circuit City this week, it almost hurts knowing what I paid for this thing August of last year :(

it almost hurts knowing what I paid for this thing August of last year :(

Yeah, but while they've been debating, you've had 10 months of enjoyment more than they have.

Like I said, it *almost* hurts. :D

I bought a Sony KDF-E42A10 LCD projection a few months ago and although it has a nice picture, my wife, son and I do get headaches from watching the television. We previously had a Sony 27" XBR analog CRT which always was superb picture with no headaches. My question is- it seems the tv is too bright, even when I adjust the contrast or brightness down. If I turn it down too much, the picture is horrible and not viewable. Is there any validity to the idea that CRT and plasma are easier on the eyes because of phosphor based designs? Are the hologen bulbs in micro displays just too powerful compared to plasma or CRT? Could it be just the HDTV picture system itself?

I am selling the Sony and looking to replace it. So far, I have considered going back to CRT such as the Sony KD34XBR970. The Sony has a "pro" mode on the picture settings which replicates a professional monitor. In the store it seemed to be very easy on the eyes. However, I have seen the Philips 42" plasma with ambilight and it looks interesting. In the store, I felt it definitely relaxed the eyes, however, the backlight seemed very bright and I am concerned when in my home at night the backlight will be too bright. Plus, compared to some of the new Pioneer or Samsung models the Philips on a purely picture quality basis seemed lacking.

Perhaps someone could enlighten me on this because it is very important to the well being of my family. Should I scrap the HD idea and find a used XBR analog set?

Thanks for your help.

the backlight seemed very bright and I am concerned when in my home at night the backlight will be too bright.

As long as you're not standing behind the unit staring at the Ambilight bars, you'll be fine.

I haven't heard one single complaint about the Ambilight, other than various friends seeing it for the first time and complaining that they don't have one of their own.

Can't speak to some of the newer models on the show room floor, but the other thing about going into a place like Best Buy or Circuit City is you really need to get ahold of the remotes and take a look at the picture settings. I'd even recommend adjusting them down to a more realistic level, rather than the 100 contrast and brightness that they typically have their TVs set at.

You can turn down the brightness of ambilight in the menu. I think it ships at 100%

I noticed there is a new firmware "posted date" of 29 May 2006 for the 42PF9630A on the Philips technical support website. The firmware version still lists as BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461 though! Has version 1.2.0.0 been permanently withdrawn?

Magna2006.... I downloaded the firmware and noticed the same thing. I also noticed the date as 6/4/2006. I wonder what's up?

I have a question about watching photos/slides, if anyone can help? I recently started to digitize my old photos and slides and noticed that some of them are not accepted by TV.
For example, the pictures which are about 1800x1100= (dpi, actual picture, not per inch) or so were accepted, while others about 5000+x3000+ (dpi, actual) and more were not. There is also an issue of 48bit and 24 bit color selection on my scanner. 48 bits is not recognized by my Corel photo album as well. Does any one know anything about it? Thanks!

Sorry for this nebie question but i cant figure out hot to connect my comp to my tv.I have the cable that goes from rgb for compt to hdtv rcas
Any one hlp

Thanks

Sorry for this nebie question but i cant figure out hot to connect my comp to my tv.I have the cable that goes from rgb for compt to hdtv rcas
Any one hlp

Thanks

If your PC has VGA out, then you need a VGA to RGB5(rca ends) cable and you connect to input 1. If your PC has DVI, get a DVI to HDMI cable.

Magna2006.... I downloaded the firmware and noticed the same thing. I also noticed the date as 6/4/2006. I wonder what's up?

I spoke to Philips through their chat connection on the internet. They said that there was "no information" as to why that last firmware update was withdrawn. I guess they don't want to fix and tell. However, I bet they release another firmware fix here in the next month or so.

Anyone have trouble doing PIP (PIP or split Screen) I can only see on source and the other always say "source unavailable" Here is my set up

TV: cable TV (before box) via cable w/ the needle in the middle (dunno what it's called)
AV1: cable TV (after box) via component cables
AV2: computer via S-video
AV3: DVD via component cables
HDMI1: none
HDMI2: none
Side: none.

No matter which combination, I can't get 2 of the above sources to show up at the same time? Can anyone shine some light on my situation?

Something i noticed about pip is i think that your sources have to be the same type of picture. i was trying to play my xbox on 480p and it wouldnt work with regular cable, but when i switch my cable to a 480p channel my xbox just shows up.

Something i noticed about pip is i think that your sources have to be the same type of picture. i was trying to play my xbox on 480p and it wouldnt work with regular cable, but when i switch my cable to a 480p channel my xbox just shows up.

I found on the TV, one of the stations had to be Digital or even HD. A standard Def signal did not allow PIP to work. Note, I do not use a set top box, I have Comcast plugged directly into the TV.

So if your Xbox or VCR is analog, no luck on the PIP with something else that is analog. If watching a digital channel, I could also watch something through the VCR, or the PS2.

Weird, I have digital cable but still no luck w/ watching that and something analog. Haven't really looked into the resolution difference yet.

My TV is suffering from intermittent shutdown where the TV will go black and the only way to shut it off is to pull the power cord. The TV just shuts off with the green light still on, but it's black with no picture and will not respond to the remote to shut off. I originally thought it was due to component video cable, but I have replaced with HDMI cable and upgraded the firmware, but the condition has returned. This only happens when connected to cable via Comcast DVR box. When playing DVD's this condition does not occur. I have tried replacing the Cable box from Comcast with no luck. Philips had service pick up the unit, but they could not duplicate the problem in the shop and returned the TV to me with the problem still happening. Of course, I could not get this to happen when the service guy showed up for the second time. I am currently losing my mind - Help Please...

My setup is as follows:

Comcast DVR Motorola DT3412 Connected via HDMI to TV
Sony DVD Player model DVP-NS70H connected via HDMI
TV Firmware: BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471

1.2.0.0rambo1999..... All I can say is "lots of luck". If you have read this thread, you know this is the BOS, or "black screen of death". There are various theories as to why this happens. Some suggest it happens because of a power dip that causes the set to go in "protection" mode, or possibly a faulty signal board. Others think a firmware revision will solve the problem. Me?... I'm not too optimistic. My set does seem to have this problem with less frequency, but when it does happen now, the screen stays black and I also have to unplug the set to re-set it.

Your experience with the shop is a big reason as to why I won't let a shop pick mine up. Chances are they won't be able to duplicate it and who knows how long they will have to keep it.

I am well past the return policy of BB, where I purchased it from. So I guess I will put up with it. It's a shame because the picture quality is excellent.

P.S. This is not the only model from Philips that experiences this problem.

P.S.S. After posting this, I noticed you have firmware revision BX23-1.2.0.0_1471. For some reason Philips has pulled this from their web-site. You might try downloading the one dated 5/29/06 and use or rollback to firmware revision BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461. It could be worth a try.

Weird, I have digital cable but still no luck w/ watching that and something analog. Haven't really looked into the resolution difference yet.
You did mention that you are connecting your cable box via component cables and thus an analog method of connection. Although the cable box decodes digital cable, it arrives at your TV via analog means. You should have no problem with PIP if one of your sources is via HDMI.

I was hoping a solution may have come up since the issue was first reported. I know exactly what your saying now about the repair shops. They are "authorized" but I had to tell the guy how to flash the firmware, absolutely clueless!

I appreciate your help on this. I am going to back to fight with Philips - Time for call elevation!

rolento1999.... Keep us posted. I read these posts often, hoping that a solution for the black screen is found.

My TV is suffering from intermittent shutdown where the TV will go black and the only way to shut it off is to pull the power cord. The TV just shuts off with the green light still on, but it's black with no picture and will not respond to the remote to shut off. I originally thought it was due to component video cable, but I have replaced with HDMI cable and upgraded the firmware, but the condition has returned. This only happens when connected to cable via Comcast DVR box. When playing DVD's this condition does not occur. I have tried replacing the Cable box from Comcast with no luck. Philips had service pick up the unit, but they could not duplicate the problem in the shop and returned the TV to me with the problem still happening. Of course, I could not get this to happen when the service guy showed up for the second time. I am currently losing my mind - Help Please...

My setup is as follows:

Comcast DVR Motorola DT3412 Connected via HDMI to TV
Sony DVD Player model DVP-NS70H connected via HDMI
TV Firmware: BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471



Is it possible that your TV has somehow switched to "stand-by" mode? The Philips website says this:


"Television remains in standby after main power switched on."

[Philips] Answer: "When you put the TV in standby before switching off with main power switch, it is normal that the television starts up in standby again. To switch the television on push the 'CH+' or 'P' button on the remote control. The display always starts in standby mode when switched on with the main switch when a TV is connected."


I have the same firmware installed on my TV with a Comcast/Motorola DCT6412 DVR connected via HDMI. I have a Panasonic ES-25S DVD recorder connected to the other HDMI port. I also have a Monster surge protector (model: MP HTS 200) at the wall outlet. So far, this OFF/ON problem has only occured maybe once or twice since getting this TV some three months ago. I don't think that the firmware really affects this problem since there have been many firmware releases over the last year and yet some people still have this power problem.

Is there any way you could get hold of a computer UPS (uninterruptable power supply) to try and see if that smooths your power and solves your issue?

Hello to all, first post, but I have read this thread for a long time and finally purchased the 42pf9630a about 2 weeks ago from BB. I have a few comments and questions...

> My tv came w/ firmware 1.1.0.0_01461 (mfg April 2006 according to SN) but according to the philips site this was released like 5-29-06. IS this the same version FW? I have tried numerous times to upgrade thinking the FW I downloaded was revised, but I've had no luck upgrading.

> For what it's worth I have yet to experience the 'black screen' issue many of you are having. I have TWC in the Columbia, SC area w/ SA8300HD hooked up via HDMI. The only issue I have with this setup (and is really frustrating) is whenever I go to a HD channel, ESPN for example, and then switch to a SD channel the cable box always displays 480i instead of 480p. There is definitely a noticable difference between the two. The real head scratcher to me is I have my cable box configured to display 480p, 720p, and 1080i ONLY.

I can resolve the issue by switching to another input, then back to HDMI, it does its 'handshake' and the cable box bounces back to 480p. But when I go back to a HD channel, the whole process starts again. Any ideas?

TIA to all :)

Is it possible that your TV has somehow switched to "stand-by" mode? The Philips website says this:


"Television remains in standby after main power switched on."

[Philips] Answer: "When you put the TV in standby before switching off with main power switch, it is normal that the television starts up in standby again. To switch the television on push the 'CH+' or 'P' button on the remote control. The display always starts in standby mode when switched on with the main switch when a TV is connected."


I have the same firmware installed on my TV with a Comcast/Motorola DCT6412 DVR connected via HDMI. I have a Panasonic ES-25S DVD recorder connected to the other HDMI port. I also have a Monster surge protector (model: MP HTS 200) at the wall outlet. So far, this OFF/ON problem has only occured maybe once or twice since getting this TV some three months ago. I don't think that the firmware really affects this problem since there have been many firmware releases over the last year and yet some people still have this power problem.

Is there any way you could get hold of a computer UPS (uninterruptable power supply) to try and see is that smooths your power and solves your issue?

Standby does not seem to be the issue as the screen goes black after an hour of normal viewing. Also, when the screen goes black, the TV is frozen and does not respond to any commands from the remote or the TV. I actually have to pull the power plug so it will reset.

I am going to try your UPS suggestion and see what happens.

My 42PF9630A/37 TV is connected to a Comcast/Motorola DCT6412-III cable box via an HDMI cable. Has anyone tried using an HDMI switch (or repeater) with this TV and cable box? If so, did it work or did the picture go blank after two or three minutes? I am asking this because some of the newer stereo receivers have HDMI switching built in. I was wondering if the handshake bugs have been largely worked out.

Hi guys. Quick question on watching PC stuff on the philips plasma. My laptop has a S video out, so I got the cables and all that, hooked it up, played around, and got it working. (though the quality ain't that great, and i couldn't get the resolution there, but that's not the important point)

the problem I have is, my TV is showing all the desktop, windows no problem, but somehow if I play a video, the screen is not showing it. So i would see media player windows with black content (while the movie is showing on my laptop). same thing for other media players.

anyone knows how to get around with it? much appreciated!

Hi, is it possible to use the HDMI input with the analog audio inputs? My cable box only has DVI out and an optical audio connection. Is there anyway to get around this so that I can use the DVI-HDMI connection?

Hey all, I am a newbie who recently purchased my first plasma, the Philips 42PF9630A/37..I have a HD DirecTV box with a 1000 Monster HDMI cable. I do not know too much about televisions, cables, picture quality etc. however, I am not too satisfied with the quality of the picture on this television. Maby I do not have the picture settings correct? I would greatly appreciate it if someone posted the best possible combination they believe for color, brightness, contrast and all the others on the picture settings. Thanks guys. Take care.
-liftingismylife

I have the 42PF9630A/37, it's been connected for 3 days now, and TODAY 2 episodes of Black Screen of Death. I am BUMMED. I love this TV. Love the picture, the 2 HDMI connections, the tuner, the Ambilights. I read about the black screen, but sort of convinced myself that MOST sets must be ok and not have this thing occur. Told myself, people without this issue would not post about it, only people with the issue would do so. I felt like I would be "lucky". NOPE.

I have 2 weeks left under the BB 30 day return. I am not sure what to DO.

Once Ambis were on, once off, so thats not related. Once the TV was on AV2, once on AV3, so thats not relevant either. Since our outlet is behind the set, we need to run down and reset thru the circuit breaker. GRRR, and that also makes the Tivo and Cable box slowly reset.

I may order another set thru Costco, and return this one to BB. I am torn.

Hey all, I am a newbie who recently purchased my first plasma, the Philips 42PF9630A/37..I have a HD DirecTV box with a 1000 Monster HDMI cable. I do not know too much about televisions, cables, picture quality etc. however, I am not too satisfied with the quality of the picture on this television. Maby I do not have the picture settings correct? I would greatly appreciate it if someone posted the best possible combination they believe for color, brightness, contrast and all the others on the picture settings. Thanks guys. Take care.
-liftingismylife

Check out postings #1553, #1554, and #1704 in this thread. I run my TV at 50% brightness, 65% contrast, and 47% color. I ran the picture settings a bit lower than that during the first 100 hour break-in period. You should check out the Philips technical support website for the latest firmware updates too. The newer updates even now allow for an onscreen volume slider display.

Hope this helps.

I have the 42PF9630A/37, it's been connected for 3 days now, and TODAY 2 episodes of Black Screen of Death. I am BUMMED. I love this TV. Love the picture, the 2 HDMI connections, the tuner, the Ambilights. I read about the black screen, but sort of convinced myself that MOST sets must be ok and not have this thing occur. Told myself, people without this issue would not post about it, only people with the issue would do so. I felt like I would be "lucky". NOPE.

I have 2 weeks left under the BB 30 day return. I am not sure what to DO.

Once Ambis were on, once off, so thats not related. Once the TV was on AV2, once on AV3, so thats not relevant either. Since our outlet is behind the set, we need to run down and reset thru the circuit breaker. GRRR, and that also makes the Tivo and Cable box slowly reset.

I may order another set thru Costco, and return this one to BB. I am torn.


You could have a bad electronics board or power converter in your TV. You might consider exchanging it for another one while you still can if all else fails. Can you get hold of a surge suppressor or a computer UPS (uninterruptible power supply) to see if your home power is surging or dipping and maybe causing this problem? Does your TV have adequate ventilation and not overheating?

Surge protectors, ups systems and conditioners DO NOT fix the problem. I have read too many posts where people have had one or more of these at a time of the BS. Also, American Electronics is filled with Philips models in my town and most do the same thing. The salesman said stay away from Philips... (Even though I cant help myself)

And apperantly it is being addressed by Philips... I wonder if they had these types of issues with the equipment they sell to hospitals, would they take care of the problem in a more efficient, speedier manner? Come on Philips. Wake up.

Hi, is it possible to use the HDMI input with the analog audio inputs? My cable box only has DVI out and an optical audio connection. Is there anyway to get around this so that I can use the DVI-HDMI connection?

When I had a Comcast/Motorola DCT6412-II cable box in the house, I connected the HDMI cable to the TV on one end and connected to the cable box along with a DVI-HDMI adapter at the other end. I also connected an audio cable from the digital (PCS) audio output of the cable box to the digital audio input of the TV. It worked.

Later, I went to Comcast and asked them about exchanging my old cable box for a new one with native HDMI output. They swapped my DCT6412-II for a DCT6412-III without any additional charge. Ask your cable company if you can exchange your cable box for one with native HDMI output. That way, one cable will do audio and video.

Hi, is it possible to use the HDMI input with the analog audio inputs? My cable box only has DVI out and an optical audio connection. Is there anyway to get around this so that I can use the DVI-HDMI connection?

Sure. if you want to use the TV speakers, just connect the audio from the cable box. What cable box are you using? Are you certain the cable box doesn't have digital audio out? either analog or digital will work. I'm using HDMI now but I did use DV with my old box. My audio now goes into my external speaker system.

MAGNA2006 - Didn't notice your response was on the next page.

Check out postings #1553, #1554, and #1704 in this thread. I run my TV at 50% brightness, 65% contrast, and 47% color. I ran the picture settings a bit lower than that during the first 100 hour break-in period. You should check out the Philips technical support website for the latest firmware updates too. The newer updates even now allow for an onscreen volume slider display.

Hope this helps.

Hey, thanks for the help, I appreciate it. I have barely used the television so what settings do you think i should run the tv at for the first 100 hour break in period? As well I am not sure what you mean by the updates? How do I receive these updates on my television?

-liftingismylife

liftingismylife...... I think for the break in period you should lower the brightness and contrast settings as low as you can while still having a good picture. Although having said that, I wasn't aware of the break-in period and adjusted my settings as to what looked good to my eyes. Later I purchased the AVIA disk to properly calibrate my set.

As far as the firmware updates go you can go here and download them.

http://www.usasupport.philips.com/productDocuments.html?ProductCode=50PF9630A/37&subCat=PLASMA_EXTRA_LARGE_GT43_SU_US_CONSUMER

The files are in zipped form so you will need to extract them and put the file named "autorun.upg" on a portable drive like a thumb drive and insert it in one of the usb ports on the side of the TV. After a few seconds the upgrade process starts, follow the instructions on the screen and you're good to go.

Black Screen Issue Update: I have elevated my call to level 2 support at Philips - 1st level support had no info or data. Suggested a new repair shop, which I am resisting due to my last experience where they could not duplicate the problem.

In the meantime, has anyone had any luck rolling back the firmware to an older release? Level 1 tech support also suggested I rollback the firmware since my version has been pulled without explanation. He thinks this will fix the problem even though he has no data to support this theory. At this point, I have nothing to lose.

I followed the instructions both ways and the TV will not recognize the older version on my USB drive:

1. Turned off TV, inserted USB with old firmware, TV started up but did not recognize the software.
2. Tried manual softwate through installation menu, but TV still will not recognize the software.

Thanks in advance for all the help...

rambo1999...... Just a thought but, are you sure you only have one autorun.upg file on your drive? I rolled mine back with no problems. A screen came up asking me if I was sure I wanted to use the older firmware. If you only have one, try deleting it and copy and paste the file from the 5/29/2006 folder.

rambo1999...... Just a thought but, are you sure you only have one autorun.upg file on your drive? I rolled mine back with no problems. A screen came up asking me if I was sure I wanted to use the older firmware. If you only have one, try deleting it and copy and paste the file from the 5/29/2006 folder.

Yes - only (1) file "autorun.upg". Did you have to use the manual install method from the menu or did it recognize it from the power off/on method at startup?

Very strange since I upgraded to new version with no issues - oh well story of my lif with this TV.

rambo1999.... My firmware took automatically while the set was on. Try to download the file again and unzip it and try the autorun.upg file again. If this doesn't work, maybe your drive is faulty? Good Luck!

Sure. if you want to use the TV speakers, just connect the audio from the cable box. What cable box are you using? Are you certain the cable box doesn't have digital audio out? either analog or digital will work. I'm using HDMI now but I did use DV with my old box. My audio now goes into my external speaker system.

MAGNA2006 - Didn't notice your response was on the next page.


No big deal. After messing around with setting up the HDMI-DVI and separate audio connection, I later found it was easier to just get another cable box with native HDMI and use one cable.

I have been looking at getting a new stereo receiver (my old stereo is crapping out) that also has the HDMI switching feature. Do you know if most people have good luck with doing this with a cable box and the 42PF9630A?

I flashed my 42PF9630A with the BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471 firmware and the TV appears to function just fine. Why are several people on this thread (and page) having to rollback their firmware to an older version? What problem is being fixed?