Hey, thanks for the help, I appreciate it. I have barely used the television so what settings do you think i should run the tv at for the first 100 hour break in period? As well I am not sure what you mean by the updates? How do I receive these updates on my television?

-liftingismylife

I think I ran the 42PF9630A with about 45% brightness and 55% contrast during the breakin period. That was a bit dark for some shows.

I was referring to the firmware updates posted on the Philips technical support website for the 42PF9630A under the software section:

http://www.usasupport.philips.com/productDocuments.html?ProductCode=42PF9630A/37

The firmware file is downloadable to a computer in a compressed ZIP file format. You can then UNZIP the firmware file on the computer and copy the resulting uncompressed file to a USB flash drive (or pen drive). If you then connect the pen drive to the USB port of the 42PF9630A, then it will load the new firmware into the TV memory.

Here is my little review in the 3 weeks I had this set.

Black Screen of Death - I've had it happen only once in the 3 weeks I've owned the TV. I wasn't there when it happened. I just went to go turn on the TV and it wouldn't turn on. None of the buttons on the remote works. The power button on the side of the TV didn't work. I just unplug and plug the TV and everything has been peachy since then (knock on wood). I don't think it's a big deal as long as it will turn back on after you unplug/plug the power. Well as long as it doesn't happen every day (knock on wood, again)

Ambilight - I also noticed that my display never show green. The only way I can get green is to maually adust the color. Not a big deal. Is it worth the hassle of calling Philips and have them take my TV away for service just for some green? I don't think it would be worth it unless if they send someone out to get it fixed. But then I'm scared they might break something else trying to fix the no green issue. I am still excited at the fact that I have ambilight. Green or no gree, it is still damn cool. I have not yet tried the stereo ambilight yet. I kinda like it one color on both sies.

Settings - I have set the TV at 70% Contrast, 48% Brightness and 40% Color. No burn in or ghosting issues so far (knock on wood x3). I am not video expert but I'm very happy with the way DVDs and Digital Cable TVs look.

Connections:

TV - Cable TV (pre-box via RG6)
AV1 - none
AV2 - Computer via S-Video
AV3 - DVD via component video
HDMI1 - Computer
HDMI2 - Cable TV
Side - None

All audio is connected to my Logitech Z-680 via SPDIF optical (DVD), SPDIF coxial (cable tv) and RCA (computer). For my small apt living room the Z-680 does the job. Side note, HDMI/DVI is so much better than S-video for displaying computer stuff. All the text are blurred when viewing w/ S-Video.

Satisfaction - Overall I'm very happy with my purchase, especially at the price I got the TV. It is the center piece of attention whenever I have guest over. Again I am not a hardcore video or audiophile but this set is awsome. I highly recommend it!

Monoprice.com - Very happy with the order. Thanks you guys for the tip! I got 1x HDMI cable, 1x HDMI/DVI cable and 1x Coxial cable all for $22 w/ shipping and Tax. I placed the order Tuesday morning and received it in the mail via USPS on Wednesday afternoon.

Latest firmware - I have upgraded to the latest firmware (5/29/06). Someone earlier said volume bar? Is that a feature you have to turn on? I still don't have it ??

I flashed my 42PF9630A with the BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471 firmware and the TV appears to function just fine. Why are several people on this thread (and page) having to rollback their firmware to an older version? What problem is being fixed?

Level 1 Tech support told me to roll back my firware to see if this would solve the Black Screen of Death Issue. The only problem with this theory is the BS Issue was occuring with the old firware too, but at this point, what do I have to lose.

PS., tech support did not have any info on what was wrong with the latest version of the firware. I am waiting for a resonse from level 2 tech support.

No big deal. After messing around with setting up the HDMI-DVI and separate audio connection, I later found it was easier to just get another cable box with native HDMI and use one cable.

I have been looking at getting a new stereo receiver (my old stereo is crapping out) that also has the HDMI switching feature. Do you know if most people have good luck with doing this with a cable box and the 42PF9630A?

Can't answer that. Hadn't heard of HDMI switching before, but I just did a search and read some. Some of the stand-alone switchers are pretty expensive.

I bought a couple of movies on sale at BB. Apparently, one of them uses the 2.33 aspect ratio instead of this TV's native 16/9 = 1.78 aspect ratio. Both my Comcast PVR cable box and Panasonic DVD recorder/player are connected to the TV using HDMI cables. The 42PF9603A/37 picture format menu seems to only allow selection of the "widescreen" and "automatic" screen formats. This results in either a vertically stretched image or an image that has letterbox bars on top and bottom. Is there any way to override this menu and have the TV to "zoom" on the image and eliminiate the letterbox bars?

Ambilight - I also noticed that my display never show green.
Thats Philips big 3 right there... Ambilights were recalled because of arching, the ambilights never show green (unless you adjust in color mode only, even though the commercials clearly show green) and the black screen of death. Was a deal breaker for me. And to top it off, customer service is lacking. Whats going on with them?

Thats Philips big 3 right there... Ambilights were recalled because of arching, the ambilights never show green (unless you adjust in color mode only, even though the commercials clearly show green) and the black screen of death. Was a deal breaker for me. And to top it off, customer service is lacking. Whats going on with them?


I wouldn't say thats the 'Big 3'. The ambilight issues are really minor. Ambilight is just a extra feature that only Philips have. So what if we don't show Green? It only enhances the viewing experience. As for the ambilight recall, I think it was only a select few that was made in the begining. Mine was not affected by the recall. The only real issue is the black screen of death. So it's really the 'Big 1'. At the end of the day. It's still an awesome TV for the price.

I had this problem a few days ago. It's alike to the infamous black screen problem, but apparently it's not "black screen"! When it happened, the tv show was still on and everything looked just normal. But when I tried to use the remote control, tv didn't respond (although it got signals from the remote control), even "power" button on the remote control had no effect. I tried to push the "power" button on the TV to turn it off, again it didn't respond. Finally, I unplugged the power cable. The TV has been fine after I plugged the power cable back.

Has any one else had the same problem before?

BTW, I am using the delisted firmware version BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471. Maybe I should roll it back.

I had this problem a few days ago. It's alike to the infamous black screen problem, but apparently it's not "black screen"! When it happened, the tv show was still on and everything looked just normal. But when I tried to use the remote control, tv didn't respond (although it got signals from the remote control), even "power" button on the remote control had no effect. I tried to push the "power" button on the TV to turn it off, again it didn't respond. Finally, I unplugged the power cable. The TV has been fine after I plugged the power cable back.

Has any one else had the same problem before?

BTW, I am using the delisted firmware version BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471. Maybe I should roll it back.

I too am running the now delisted firmware. It sounds like you expereinced the TV Freeze part of the Black Screen issue. Are you using Comcast DVR CT-3412 and where you viewing analog channels at the time the TV froze?

I wouldn't say thats the 'Big 3'. The ambilight issues are really minor. Ambilight is just a extra feature that only Philips have. So what if we don't show Green? It only enhances the viewing experience. As for the ambilight recall, I think it was only a select few that was made in the begining. Mine was not affected by the recall. The only real issue is the black screen of death. So it's really the 'Big 1'. At the end of the day. It's still an awesome TV for the price.
Oh its a beautiful set... I am just a bit sour because I returned mine for the black screen issue. I miss it dearly. I just wish Philips took this as serious as they did on the recalls... Mine wasnt part of the recall either thank god.

I was watching digital channels at that time. My cable STB is Pace 551. It was weird coz the tv show was still on and well during the freeze period. I gotta look into the service manual to see if it has anything to say.

I want to connect my 20in Intel Imac to my Philips 42PF9630A Iam using dvi to hdmi cable for video but how would I then get sound to the tv ? Does the tv expect the sound to come from the hdmi I assume. Anyway to point it to another audio source whats best cable to do that I think the Imac has some optical out port?

Also someone mentioned where to get really cheap hdmi cables ?? Where was that ?

Also someone mentioned where to get really cheap hdmi cables ?? Where was that ?

monoprice.com is where I got mine, just avoid monster like the plague.

I have a question:

I own this tv for about 11 months and I had this problem twice -suddenly the image becomes stretched for non-HD programming, about twice. The aspect ration changes the screen size but not the image stretch. The HD programming is fine. I use the motorolla cablebox. The problem is solved if I turn the tv off and then on (I guess a rebooting is needed).

I have a comment about this black screen issue, more philosophical - I, as everyone else, have it once in a while. The good thing then is that it does not mean the TV is broken (if everyone has the same problem) . It is either the design flow or the power dip, or the signal problem. It is happening not equally frequently for different people, so it should not be much of a design issue (which would imply that everyone would have it equally frequent). If it is a design issue, then it probably means that the TV is oversensitive to some external deviations such as bad ``dirty' power or bad signal from the cable company. BTW, my electrician says that they consider 125v the standard they feed the consumers and 5% deviation from it is normal. So, one may try to buy a power stabilizer, not the power conditioner only.

Just got my tv and it the ambilight doesnt show green at all I thought it would while watching world cup in HD but it isnt any ideas? I hear it has prob showing green. Why do they always show a dark green around the tv in commericals.

......I have a comment about this black screen issue, more philosophical - I, as everyone else, have it once in a while. The good thing then is that it does not mean the TV is broken (if everyone has the same problem) . It is either the design flow or the power dip, or the signal problem. It is happening not equally frequently for different people, so it should not be much of a design issue (which would imply that everyone would have it equally frequent). If it is a design issue, then it probably means that the TV is oversensitive to some external deviations such as bad ``dirty' power or bad signal from the cable company. BTW, my electrician says that they consider 125v the standard they feed the consumers and 5% deviation from it is normal. So, one may try to buy a power stabilizer, not the power conditioner only.

I am starting to lean towards signal issue as the source of my Black Screen Issue. I swapped my Comcast Motorola DVR DC-3412 with a new box on Thursday and have not had the BS Issue since. I was getting this at least (1) time per day. I also believe this may be related to the video signal source for 2 other reasons (theory only):

(1) I have never had a BS issue when playing DVD's.
(2) Repair shop had TV for 5 days and could not dupliate the BS Issue. They had the TV running with HD over the air broadcast and never had it hooked up to cable box. TV was run 24 x 7 during this time.

rambo1999...... I think you may be on to something. I've wondered if it could be signal related. My black screen occurs infrequently and at intermittent times. I also doubt that a service shop would be able to duplicate it.

I have Insight cable and I have the Motorola 6412, phase III box and now a more common problem I'm having is the ........ (are you ready for this)? The "Green Screen of Death". Occassionally when I turn on the set I get a solid green screen, it doesn't make any difference what channel I select. The only way to remedy this is to unplug the box for a few minutes, and plug the box back in. If this continues, I may have to contact my cable company and swap it out for a new one.

To get the "World Cup" Ambilight green display, You have to create a personal setting for the Color option.
menu - > TV -> Ambilight -> Color -> -> Auto color -> Personal
I set Palette to 34 and Saturation to 49.
Looks pretty good.

Where can I get the last firmware with TV guide on screen and what is the version # ?

I am starting to lean towards signal issue as the source of my Black Screen Issue. I swapped my Comcast Motorola DVR DC-3412 with a new box on Thursday and have not had the BS Issue since. I was getting this at least (1) time per day. I also believe this may be related to the video signal source for 2 other reasons (theory only):

(1) I have never had a BS issue when playing DVD's.
(2) Repair shop had TV for 5 days and could not dupliate the BS Issue. They had the TV running with HD over the air broadcast and never had it hooked up to cable box. TV was run 24 x 7 during this time.

Yeah...I'm going for the signal issue too.

1) I have a new house in a new subdivision (very clean power). I can verify this because I have a $300 UPS that runs my computer gear.
2) People have tried various combinations of surge protectors AND UPS's and still get it.
3) Someone in one of the forums recorded an episode of American Idol and gets the BS at the exact same point every single time (so his DVR recorded the bad signal and repeats it). The SA8300 only does encoding when timeshifting analog material...on digital material it records the data stream without any transcoding (that's how he captured the signal hiccup I assume).
4) I've only gotten the BS when using my PS2 over component cables (input 1) and only when using version 1141 w/ TV Guide enabled. I haven't had the problem (yet) when using 1161 (or 1171) w/o TV Guide. Both times it happened was with 480i input.
5) I have logged almost 300 hours on this set using the coax in (analog, SD, and HD content) as well as DVD's (over 480P on input 3) w/ no BS.
6) I sometimes get the green screen on 480P content but turning on/off the DVD player or changing from input 3 to another input and back fixes it. I swapped DVD players (from a Toshiba to a Liteon) and the green screen problem went away.

well, I got also got black screen watching DVDs, connected directly to TV with HDMI cable. And I got it watching my Series 2 Tivo, that was hooked to cable, but not thru the cable box. (From wall to splitter to TIVO) And yes, I also got it when watching cable thru the box, and with and without the Ambilights. Strike 3.

With my new Panasonic TH42P-6U, I have not had even one epidode of anything weird happening.

hello

Hey here is something interesting about MONSTER CABLES. Most retailers make over 80 percent profit on cables. I know this for a fact because i work at one. Monter cables that cost 100 at the store generates about 80 in profit to the store so buyer beware. Im not saying that monster cables aren't good but the stores make a huge profit. Sort of like the movie theater popcorn. PURE PROFIT.


Chiaheadmonopricecom is where I got mine, just avoid monster like the plague

well, I got also got black screen watching DVDs, connected directly to TV with HDMI cable. And I got it watching my Series 2 Tivo, that was hooked to cable, but not thru the cable box. (From wall to splitter to TIVO) And yes, I also got it when watching cable thru the box, and with and without the Ambilights. Strike 3.

With my new Panasonic TH42P-6U, I have not had even one epidode of anything weird happening.

There's more than one kind of BS. I'm only getting the one where the status light is green, picture and sound disappear for a few seconds, and it comes right back on by itself. If you get the one where you have red lights or have to unplug the unit, then it's probably a different issue and probably hardware related.

Again...it looks like all of your devices are connected via some sort of component or HDMI cable. Have you ever had the BS from the tuner?

There's more than one kind of BS. I'm only getting the one where the status light is green, picture and sound disappear for a few seconds, and it comes right back on by itself. If you get the one where you have red lights or have to unplug the unit, then it's probably a different issue and probably hardware related.

Again...it looks like all of your devices are connected via some sort of component or HDMI cable. Have you ever had the BS from the tuner?

Isn't this fun, we have multiple versions of the BS Issue!! My BS Issue is picture and sound dissappears with Green Power Light still on. TV will not respond to Remote or TV buttons and must be unplugged to regain control. TV reboots and all is well. So far no new issues of the BS.

BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441 seems to be that last version with TVGOS. I found a link in the 37pf7320a forum to download it.

Where can I get the last firmware with TV guide on screen and what is the version # ?

Isn't this fun, we have multiple versions of the BS Issue!! My BS Issue is picture and sound dissappears with Green Power Light still on. TV will not respond to Remote or TV buttons and must be unplugged to regain control. TV reboots and all is well. So far no new issues of the BS.

Not only that, but across different models as well. I've got the 50PF9630A/37 and haven't seen a whole lot of postings about the BS for my set (but then again I don't think the 50's are as popular as the 42's considering the 1K price increase).

Ybarra.... I have the 50" model as you. I am experiencing the same type of BS as rambo1999. At first my BS was like most, no picture after a few seconds and the picture would return. However, lately I have to resort to unplugging the set to get the picture back. And like rambo1999, I am reluctant to have a service shop take it and not be able to duplicate the problem.

I just got the TV today, and am already having issues. Was playing SNES (Street Fighter) with a friend, and after about an hour, i got the black screen. The light turns to red instead of green, and its unresponsive. Have to unplug, wait a few minutes and replug. Doing the same thing to me while im playing X360.
Downloaded and installed what appears to be the latest firmware from philips, but that didnt help.
Ive been watching this thread for awhile, but does anyone have a quick summary of what i need to do?

EDIT- After playing a bit more, and another black screen, i just unplugged it and left it. But when i did, i noticed a significant ammount of heat coming off the screen, and the top of the unit was almost hot. Is this normal with plasmas? This is my first, but i dont recall feeling this sort of heat coming from them in stores.

simms51... well now I have the Green Screen of Death issue and to add insult to injury the Black Screen Of Death has returned as well. THeir is definately a problem with signal that causes this issue. My Son tells me the Black Screen issue happens to him when changing channels frequently with non HD signals. This is absolutely driving me crazy that I cannot duplicat the issue on demand. If we had this, we could get the issue resolved.

I feel I have no choice now but to try another service shop and continue to escalate my issue with Philips Customer Service. If we have enough customers with these issues, we should consider our options for some type of joint action.

My 42Pf9630a has been working flawlessly since the latest firmware. I didn't do the latest latest firmware which was still labeled as the old one though as their was some rumor of problem with that one and that it wasn't perfected or ready and wasnt' supposed to be released yet hence the name on the site still showing the one before.

So how does everyone have their's mounted? I'm using an omnimount (the one that swivels up and down) and the vesa brackets so I can plug stuff in behind it while it's on the wall. It's been theorized that it could be a heat issue. Maybe that's why the new firmware seems to work for me and Quatre because the removal of TVGOS means that the set physically turns itself off when you press power (you can hear relays click) whereas with 1141 and TVGOS the unit stayed in "standby" and downloaded guide information and such. Maybe the unit's power supply was overheating staying on 24/7? That still doesn't explain the guy who recorded American Idol on his PVR and it would black screen in the exact same spot every single time (pointing to a signal issue). This is so frustrating...I love this TV if Philips could just get off their butts and solve the black screen issues!!!

So how does everyone have their's mounted?

My TV is not mounted. I am running the latest firmware (BX23U-1.2.0.0_1471)before it was pulled from the site and replaced with older version.

So how does everyone have their's mounted? I'm using an omnimount (the one that swivels up and down) and the vesa brackets so I can plug stuff in behind it while it's on the wall. It's been theorized that it could be a heat issue. Maybe that's why the new firmware seems to work for me and Quatre because the removal of TVGOS means that the set physically turns itself off when you press power (you can hear relays click) whereas with 1141 and TVGOS the unit stayed in "standby" and downloaded guide information and such. Maybe the unit's power supply was overheating staying on 24/7? That still doesn't explain the guy who recorded American Idol on his PVR and it would black screen in the exact same spot every single time (pointing to a signal issue). This is so frustrating...I love this TV if Philips could just get off their butts and solve the black screen issues!!!

You say you are using the VESA brackets. I hope you didn't use those 3-4 inch pins that came with the mount. They give you a little more wiggle room behind the set, but do you believe they're strong enough to hold the set? I don't. It's relatively easy to change connections on the back. Once you know where they are. I go by touch. How often are you going to do that?

Regarding the so-called 'Black Screen of Death', I've never experienced it or the Green screen. I have had the set (including Ambilight) go off for 2 or 3 seconds, but it always came back on without any action on my part. It hasn't happened for a month or so. My set is on from about 7PM to 1 or 2 AM every day.

The only problem I've had is with "False Contouring". I'll talk about that in another posting.

Anyone else having over heating issues? The top of the plasma is very hot after an hour of use. Not too hot to touch, but getting there. There's plenty of room around it for air flow.
Im pretty sure that's the reason its giving me the black screen O' death.

Anyone else having over heating issues? The top of the plasma is very hot after an hour of use. Not too hot to touch, but getting there. There's plenty of room around it for air flow.
Im pretty sure that's the reason its giving me the black screen O' death.

My TV get's pretty hot too, but I am not sure if this is normal or not for this TV or other plasma's. The BS issue has never happened within the first hour of operation - so you may be on to something with the heat issue. Strange this is repair shop had my tv for almost a week and claim to have left the TV for most of the time and the TV never shutdown.

You say you are using the VESA brackets. I hope you didn't use those 3-4 inch pins that came with the mount. They give you a little more wiggle room behind the set, but do you believe they're strong enough to hold the set? I don't. It's relatively easy to change connections on the back. Once you know where they are. I go by touch. How often are you going to do that?

Regarding the so-called 'Black Screen of Death', I've never experienced it or the Green screen. I have had the set (including Ambilight) go off for 2 or 3 seconds, but it always came back on without any action on my part. It hasn't happened for a month or so. My set is on from about 7PM to 1 or 2 AM every day.

The only problem I've had is with "False Contouring". I'll talk about that in another posting.

Ummm...yeah... Philips supplies those because that's how the unit is supposed to be mounted. When tightened they prevent the screws from bending (think about it...it's physics) and provide ample room for cabling and heat dispersion, and yes...they are more than strong enough to hold the 50". You're not technically supposed to be direct mounting the unit using the screw holes that the base usually attaches to (it doesn't provide enough airspace per Philip's specs for heat dispersion).

My TV get's pretty hot too, but I am not sure if this is normal or not for this TV or other plasma's. The BS issue has never happened within the first hour of operation - so you may be on to something with the heat issue. Strange this is repair shop had my tv for almost a week and claim to have left the TV for most of the time and the TV never shutdown.

Could be...most people keep their homes ~78 degrees during the summer. Most businesses maintain 72. If they have it sitting in the floor somewhere not next to anything then it might have a lot more airspace than however you have it at home (on the wall or against the wall on a stand).

I set stereo ambilight in the service menu and I see no difference from the ambilights. What excactly is it supposed to do?

Remember to "write" your change and follow the rest of the directions and adjust the Ambilight balance in the regular TV menus.

yeah I "wrote" it and went back in to make sure it save. What are the rest of the directions? and what do you mean by adjust the ambilight balance in the menu? i mean i know the reg tv menu that has the ambilight in it but what would i need to adjust or change in that for stereo ambilight to work?

Two thoughts:

1) Reboot your set by pulling the plug briefly. I seem to recall that I had to do that to make the changes take effect.

2) When you come back, if the left ambilight is a whole lot brighter than the right one, don't worry - go to the ambilight section of the TV's regular menu and you'll see new options for "Separation" (I prefer MAXIMUM) and "Balance", which will be all the way to the left by default - move it to the middle to restore even brightness.

Is the BS happening to anyone using satellite service (DircTV) instead of cable? I use satellite and never had that problem.

1. bs is not caused by heat. Otherwise mine wouldnt have done it 3 minutes after powering up.

2. No, it does not make a difference on satellite vs cable

3. HDMI or Component makes no difference.

4. People still get it with power conditioners/etc

5. Wall mounting/stand mount makes no difference, both have been proven.

6. input format doesnt make a difference, it does it on DVDs too.

7. firmware has not fixed the bs issue

In fact, Ultimate Electronics has several in their showroom that has more problems than just bs. They say stay clear of Philips. Some wont even turn on. What gives Philips? You guys are still selling these tvs (several models in LCD and Plasma) to the public and you are clearly not addressing the issues. Shame on you.

Ummm...yeah... Philips supplies those because that's how the unit is supposed to be mounted. When tightened they prevent the screws from bending (think about it...it's physics) and provide ample room for cabling and heat dispersion, and yes...they are more than strong enough to hold the 50". You're not technically supposed to be direct mounting the unit using the screw holes that the base usually attaches to (it doesn't provide enough airspace per Philip's specs for heat dispersion).

That may be, but I mounted mine with the vertical frame flush against the back. not to beat a dead horse, but Philips also specified using the same mounting pattern as for the table stand. Not too smart, If they specified that, then in my view, using the extender bolts would be just as suspect. Mine are stored with rest of my spare hardware.

1. bs is not caused by heat. Otherwise mine wouldnt have done it 3 minutes after powering up.

2. No, it does not make a difference on satellite vs cable

3. HDMI or Component makes no difference.

4. People still get it with power conditioners/etc

5. Wall mounting/stand mount makes no difference, both have been proven.

6. input format doesnt make a difference, it does it on DVDs too.

7. firmware has not fixed the bs issue

In fact, Ultimate Electronics has several in their showroom that has more problems than just bs. They say stay clear of Philips. Some wont even turn on. What gives Philips? You guys are still selling these tvs (several models in LCD and Plasma) to the public and you are clearly not addressing the issues. Shame on you.

So, it looks like it is a problem. similar to what we have on our PCs when they freeze. Then re-booting in needed. Regarding the comments about dealers views: I would rather suggest - stay clear of their advice. I think many of us got Philips simply because we think it has the best PQ available (which is subjective, of course). Period. I have the Black Screen issue too, but not to the point when I would rather buy other TV, which I would not like to watch every moment it is on.

Is the BS happening to anyone using satellite service (DircTV) instead of cable? I use satellite and never had that problem.

It i s very intersting. I think this Black screen thing has something to do with the signal stability. It looks like the TV loses it. Then it recognizes it again - I have the respective message on my cable box just before the image is back.

I bought mine last August. Since then, I've logged over 2600 hours on it according to the service menu.

I think I've had the BS happen one time.

I've had this TV for almost a month now and have had no BS issues whatsoever. I've used all but one of the HDMI inputs. Are a lot of people having the BS problem or did all of those with the problems end up on this forum?

TubaSaxT...... The black screen is happening to other owners of different Philips sets. Just look at the other Philips threads. I am one of those that this happens intermittently to once in a while. I am starting to think there may be a link to the stb or dvr. I have a Motorola 6412 phase III dvr from my cable provider and once in a while I'll get the "green screen of death". The remote is unresponsive and I have to unplug it for a while and let it re-set itself.

That may be, but I mounted mine with the vertical frame flush against the back. not to beat a dead horse, but Philips also specified using the same mounting pattern as for the table stand. Not too smart, If they specified that, then in my view, using the extender bolts would be just as suspect. Mine are stored with rest of my spare hardware.

I don't remember seeing using the same mounting pattern as the table stand in the docs, but then again, I have the 50 instead of the 42. On the 50, they provide the spacers and larger bolts and have the 4 holes much wider than the holes for the stand (the screw holes for the stand are smaller). In fact, I originally had the LG 50 mounted on my Omnimount U3, and when I swapped it for the Philips I had to add the extension bars on both sides to make it wide enough (you could do w/ just one extension, but I would have had to remove my U3 from the wall, remeasure, and redrill since I centered it using the LG...w/ both extensions it is still int he middle). Interestingly, the U3 docs say to use the smaller screws (which I assume would be direct mount to the TV stand holes like you did), but I figured Philips wouldn't have provided the larger bolts and spacers if they didn't intend for me to use them :D .

Anybody notice that CC has completely removed all the Philips flat panels from their website? I noticed BB is selling the newer ones. I wonder if CC got tired of all the repairs and returns?

Philips released new firmware today. Still a 9 meg file, so no TVGOS
Software history

BX23U-1.3.0.0_01481

Following improvements are made:

ï Robustness improvement when receiving channel map changes.

Anybody notice that CC has completely removed all the Philips flat panels from their website? I noticed BB is selling the newer ones. I wonder if CC got tired of all the repairs and returns?

I was in BB earlier this week and saw the 42PF9630A on their sales floor; it is still on their website. I noticed that BB is now carrying the Hitachi brand too. CC still has the 50 inch model in their store and a 42 inch (without the ambilight) on their website. I think that they are moving the inventory and brands around to make room for next year's models (just like the auto dealers). Didn't the 42PF9630A come out at about this time last year? Despite some of the other cases on this thread, but my Philips TV has (so far) worked really well, firmware updates and all.

I was in Circuit City yesterday just browsing and they have one of the new Philips model on display. It's the 42PF7321D (without ambilight) and boy did the picture look great. A certain warehouse store that starts with a B and ends in a J's has the same model for a quit a bit less.

The cabinet itself is sharp looking too. I have yet to see the new ambilight one at CC however.

I recently started researching 42" plasma TV's and happened upon this website. One very unproductive week later (I had no idea a video forum could be so addictive), I have grown suspicious about what was once my first choice -- the Philips plasmas. However, despite all the negative buzz in here about this brand, I can't bring myself to completely rule out this TV.

My question is this -- does anyone know if the new model (42PF9631D) suffers from the same "black screen" problems as the 9630 and 7320? The salesman at BB told me that the 9631 is the only model they have in stock in the store (the website still has the 9630). I ran a search in this forum on the 9631 and didn't turn up anything substantive.

Thanks!

Philips directed me to a new repair shop, which claims to have fixed numerous black screen issues by replacing the main board on the TV. I reluctantly left my TV with him in the hopes this finally resolves the problem.

Two thoughts:

1) Reboot your set by pulling the plug briefly. I seem to recall that I had to do that to make the changes take effect.

2) When you come back, if the left ambilight is a whole lot brighter than the right one, don't worry - go to the ambilight section of the TV's regular menu and you'll see new options for "Separation" (I prefer MAXIMUM) and "Balance", which will be all the way to the left by default - move it to the middle to restore even brightness.

you just have to hit save. i dont think you have to pull the plug for the changes to take.
I did see the new options for separation which i set to medium i think and saw that the Balance was way left so i centered.

I think I then notice you would get two diff colors on either side depending on what colors were closer to that side of the screen and also they light up separately in general as far as color and brightness etc. instead of mono.

its just not super noticeable.

thanks for the tips.

Philips released new firmware today. Still a 9 meg file, so no TVGOS
Software history

BX23U-1.3.0.0_01481

Following improvements are made:

ï Robustness improvement when receiving channel map changes.


It appears to have all the updates from earlier firmware version BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471 contained in it also.

I recently started researching 42" plasma TV's and happened upon this website. One very unproductive week later (I had no idea a video forum could be so addictive), I have grown suspicious about what was once my first choice -- the Philips plasmas. However, despite all the negative buzz in here about this brand, I can't bring myself to completely rule out this TV.

My question is this -- does anyone know if the new model (42PF9631D) suffers from the same "black screen" problems as the 9630 and 7320? The salesman at BB told me that the 9631 is the only model they have in stock in the store (the website still has the 9630). I ran a search in this forum on the 9631 and didn't turn up anything substantive.

Thanks!


It's hard to tell the true scope of the "blackscreen" (BS) and power down/power up issue(s), from this thread, for the whole production run of the 42PF9630A. People who have good luck with the 42PF9630A probably didn't blog about it. It sounds to me like Philips got hold of a bad lot of signal, power, or interface circuit boards used in it's 42PF9630A production run over the last year. The new model may or may not use any of these same components. So until people start buying the 42PF9631D in quantity, then there is no way to know.

What are the recommended settings for Brightness, Contrast, and Pixel Plus or Standard when not having HD brodcast stations?

What are the recommended settings for Brightness, Contrast, and Pixel Plus or Standard when not having HD brodcast stations?


If you are still in the 'Break-in ' period, then leave bright/contrast no higher than 50. After that, you might do as I do, adjust them as needed. there will be differences in the broadcasts. I change them frequently. Most programs are too dark. I believe the producers/directors use that to hide their production deficiencies. That way they don't have to show much detail. I leave the Pixel Plus alone.

If you are still in the 'Break-in ' period, then leave bright/contrast no higher than 50. After that, you might do as I do, adjust them as needed. there will be differences in the broadcasts. I change them frequently. Most programs are too dark. I believe the producers/directors use that to hide their production deficiencies. That way they don't have to show much detail. I leave the Pixel Plus alone.

Yeah...I thought I had a bad small signal board because all of my analog cable stations were really dark, so I connected my DVD player to my VCR via S cables and then connected my VCR to my TV using coax and set my TV to channel 3. I then ran Avia and sure enough the colors were in the ballpark of the component connection (just a hair off from the signal loss), so it's definitely the cable broadcasts that are just dark and not a problem w/ the TV. The digital and HD stations look fine. I guess I'm going to have to just deal w/ changing the brightness back and forth until I either go satellite or until AT&T U-verse is rolled out in my area.

Yeah...I thought I had a bad small signal board because all of my analog cable stations were really dark, so I connected my DVD player to my VCR via S cables and then connected my VCR to my TV using coax and set my TV to channel 3. I then ran Avia and sure enough the colors were in the ballpark of the component connection (just a hair off from the signal loss), so it's definitely the cable broadcasts that are just dark and not a problem w/ the TV. The digital and HD stations look fine. I guess I'm going to have to just deal w/ changing the brightness back and forth until I either go satellite or until AT&T U-verse is rolled out in my area.


I don't believe the problem is with the broadcast provider. It's the way the show was actually taped. If you notice, when they have someone enter a room to investigate a crime, they don't turn on a light switch. They keep it dark and use a flashlight. The producers just seem to have a thing about dark. This appears to be a recent fetish. Shows of 20 yrs or more in the past don't generally follow that pattern.
Speaking of AVIA. Did you find the calibration easy to do? I haven't gotten one of those kits. I tried following the DVD I got from Circuit City, but that was no use.

Just a side note... not turning on the light switch when investigating a crime scene is standard practice for investigations, not TV production.

As for the BS issues, my wife recorded an episode of Oprah in SD on our SA8300HD. At one point of the recording, the BS issue occurs. It is the BS issue in which the TV comes back up on its own. I hit the replay button and it did it again. That one point on the recording causes the BS issue every time. I am convinced it is a signal issue.

Just a side note... not turning on the light switch when investigating a crime scene is standard practice for investigations, not TV production.

Nothing to do with our plasmas but, why?

Nothing to do with our plasmas but, why?
To preserve the crime scene in it's found state. Also, a crime scene must be declared "clear" from suspect environmental conditions (booby traps, contaminations, etc.)

To preserve the crime scene in it's found state. Also, a crime scene must be declared "clear" from suspect environmental conditions (booby traps, contaminations, etc.)

Makes sense to my non-detective mind, though I am familiar with booby-traps.

I've seen a lot of discussion about the Black Screen. I fortuatenly dont have that problem. However, I have a problem where the sounds will cut out inexplicably. Has anyone else had this problem? Any known fixes?

Just a side note... not turning on the light switch when investigating a crime scene is standard practice for investigations, not TV production.

As for the BS issues, my wife recorded an episode of Oprah in SD on our SA8300HD. At one point of the recording, the BS issue occurs. It is the BS issue in which the TV comes back up on its own. I hit the replay button and it did it again. That one point on the recording causes the BS issue every time. I am convinced it is a signal issue.

Yes, it looks like it. It might be that the signal is ``compromised'' at some moment, so the tv can't recognize it, which forces it to ``feeeze''. I feel that the cable companies are having difficulties to provide a stable good signal (which also can be due to the particular programming at hand). On the other hand, Philips can be not so rubust, compared to other models, in recovering a bad signal.

I've seen a lot of discussion about the Black Screen. I fortuatenly dont have that problem. However, I have a problem where the sounds will cut out inexplicably. Has anyone else had this problem? Any known fixes?

It is definitely a bad signal issue - I had it with the Comedy Central a few times. Try to switch it to another channel and back.

Can you still buy a Philips 9630 ??? I think I saw the new set -- it has Pixel 3H or something -- and I haven't been seeing the 9630 @ CC or BB.

I've seen a lot of discussion about the Black Screen. I fortuatenly dont have that problem. However, I have a problem where the sounds will cut out inexplicably. Has anyone else had this problem? Any known fixes?

You didn't say what model your TV is or what firmware version your TV has, but for the 42PF9630A, Philips states their firmware version BX23U-1.2.0.0_01471 has a fix for "sudden sound drop" issue(s). The current firmware version, posted by Philips, is BX23U-1.3.0.0_01481, and it should contain that same fix. If you have an older firmware version, then you might consider flashing your TV to the newest version. You can find it here:

http://www.usasupport.philips.com/productDocuments.html?ProductCode=42PF9630A/37&subCat=PLASMA_LARGE_32_42_SU_US_CONSUMER

Can you still buy a Philips 9630 ??? I think I saw the new set -- it has Pixel 3H or something -- and I haven't been seeing the 9630 @ CC or BB.

The 42PF9630A is still listed on BB's website. I guess you could order it through the BB website for delivery or instore pickup.

The replacement model I saw seemed to be pretty much the same as the 9630 with the 3rd gen Pixel Plus....given that the price is just a bit higher than the older 9630's, I would guess that maybe some good closeouts will start coming on the 9630's.

I guess if I could get a 9630 for about 50% of what it cost a few months ago, I'd be tempted. Otherwise, unless the reviews say it's all smoke-and-mirrors, I'd guess the newer model (9631 ?) has some features worth paying up for.

Maybe..... :)

I purchased the 9630 and I love it. got it at a closeout price of $1799. Thats $600 less then it's replacement 9631. I talked to Philips support (they are very, very helpful, available and knowledgable. And they say there is no "breakin period" with plasma. And my contrast setting at 65 is fine and wont cause the set to fade any sooner. They estimate a life of 40,000 hours. I also upgraded the firmwear to the lastest version. As for screenblackout...they tell me it's a heat and ventilation problem with any plasma. My set is in my cool gameroom with climate control.

hey guys, i am trying to callibrate my television and i am wondering what all of you prefer for these specific settings:

Auto Picture
Digital Processing
Dynamic Contrast
DNR
Color Enhancement
Active Control

I just starting using my television this weekend and have put the settings for Brightness on 45, Contrast 60, Color 45, Tint 0, Sharp 2 to break the television in. Hopefully you guys can help me out with my new Philips and let me know if I am making any mistakes on my settings and what settings I need to put it on for the ones I listed above. Thanks, Take care.

-liftingismylife

hey guys, i am trying to callibrate my television and i am wondering what all of you prefer for these specific settings:

Auto Picture
Digital Processing
Dynamic Contrast
DNR
Color Enhancement
Active Control

I just starting using my television this weekend and have put the settings for Brightness on 45, Contrast 60, Color 45, Tint 0, Sharp 2 to break the television in. Hopefully you guys can help me out with my new Philips and let me know if I am making any mistakes on my settings and what settings I need to put it on for the ones I listed above. Thanks, Take care.

-liftingismylife

After investigating this business about "breaking in" with several service people, salesmen and finally Philips Customer Support...all say there is no such thing! And that either high contrast of brightness will not hurt or age the television any faster than it will from natural wear. You are going to get around 40 to 50 thousand hours no matter how you set it. All this business about low settings for a period helping is a myth. Set the picture to your liking and what your eyes see best! It's a great TV...ENJOY!

After investigating this business about "breaking in" with several service people, salesmen and finally Philips Customer Support...all say there is no such thing! And that either high contrast of brightness will not hurt or age the television any faster than it will from natural wear. You are going to get around 40 to 50 thousand hours no matter how you set it. All this business about low settings for a period helping is a myth. Set the picture to your liking and what your eyes see best! It's a great TV...ENJOY!

They also all say you won't get burn in, yet that is what I have from the bright yellow boxes on the picture in picture. Somehow I would rather be safe than trust salesmen who also sell vaccums, and customer support who reads from a script, and a company who doesn't want a bad image. You have spent a good deal of money on this set, so what does it hurt to take a little extra precaution?

Well said, CHIAHEAD.

They also all say you won't get burn in, yet that is what I have from the bright yellow boxes on the picture in picture. Somehow I would rather be safe than trust salesmen who also sell vaccums, and customer support who reads from a script, and a company who doesn't want a bad image. You have spent a good deal of money on this set, so what does it hurt to take a little extra precaution?

I agree with you Chiahead. Plus, I just don't understand how Philip's could allow their own menu(s) (channel search, dual-screen PIP) to cause burn-in on the their own line of TV's! Maybe they should put the main menu(s) and dual-screen PIP display on a timer to prevent them staying on the screen for too long.

I ran my TV at about 45% brightness, and about 55% contrast for the first 100 hours or so. I now run it at 50% brightness and about 65% contrast, 47% color. I run the PIP on a window-picture mode (and not dual-screen) just from what I've read on this forum, to prevent the yellow border burn-in.

But I wonder too, if you have the ACTIVE CONTROL set to MEDIUM or MAXIMUM, won't that feature be varying the brightness and contrast beyond your "break'in" settings anyway?

They also all say you won't get burn in, yet that is what I have from the bright yellow boxes on the picture in picture. Somehow I would rather be safe than trust salesmen who also sell vaccums, and customer support who reads from a script, and a company who doesn't want a bad image. You have spent a good deal of money on this set, so what does it hurt to take a little extra precaution?

My sources dont say you wont get burn-in. Of course that is a strong possibility they all agree on. But they say along with very reputiable service people who specialize in Plasma TV's, that there is no break-in peroid needed. And that that is a myth. Picture settings is all personal. And they recommend that resonable levels are what we should go for. Not excessive. But no need for break-in time.

Oh well...it's your TV...break it in if it makes you feel better!

There was a Panasonic white paper recommending breakin a year or two ago. That has sort of legitamized the idea on these forums, and with, I think, a real reason.

They also all say you won't get burn in, yet that is what I have from the bright yellow boxes on the picture in picture.

Does the PIP box have a yellow border ???

Do you use PIP alot? How long have you had the set?

I live with PIP -- it's a 'must' for me -- so this disturbs me.

Can you vary the size and/or location of the PIP box? That might move it around a bit.

Great, another thing to worry about besides the stock ticker boxes, logos in the bottom right hand corner, etc. :(

Does the PIP box have a yellow border ???

Do you use PIP alot? How long have you had the set?

I live with PIP -- it's a 'must' for me -- so this disturbs me.

Can you vary the size and/or location of the PIP box? That might move it around a bit.

Great, another thing to worry about besides the stock ticker boxes, logos in the bottom right hand corner, etc. :(

I got the TV last November.

The PIP that caused problems was the side by side image. It always has a yellow box, that can't be turned off. you can change the side it is on, but there is always a bright line down the center of the screen. I had it on to play PS2 while watching TV. So it was a few hours.

I haven't noticed a problem with the small PIP because you can turn off the yellow box by selecting the main image, also you can move the image around. But that image is too small to play a game and watch TV, so only one or the other for me now.

The burn in is only visible during dark scenes, and it is only in the center of the screen as a vertical line. I think I caught it early enough so that it is not visible in all cases (just a light burn in), but I notice it and it drives me crazy.

I don't watch alot of things with tickers, and the logos I watch all seem to be clear logos. That way they can still change the colors through the logos. That seems to be more on Hi-Def signals in my area.

I will see ghosting after watching a movie and the black bars have been on the screen for a few hours, or the menu from a DVD has been up for a few minutes, but turning stations to something that is full screen makes that go away.

I got the TV last November.

The PIP that caused problems was the side by side image. It always has a yellow box, that can't be turned off. you can change the side it is on, but there is always a bright line down the center of the screen. I had it on to play PS2 while watching TV. So it was a few hours.

I haven't noticed a problem with the small PIP because you can turn off the yellow box by selecting the main image, also you can move the image around. But that image is too small to play a game and watch TV, so only one or the other for me now.

The burn in is only visible during dark scenes, and it is only in the center of the screen as a vertical line. I think I caught it early enough so that it is not visible in all cases (just a light burn in), but I notice it and it drives me crazy.

I don't watch alot of things with tickers, and the logos I watch all seem to be clear logos. That way they can still change the colors through the logos. That seems to be more on Hi-Def signals in my area.

I will see ghosting after watching a movie and the black bars have been on the screen for a few hours, or the menu from a DVD has been up for a few minutes, but turning stations to something that is full screen makes that go away.

I don't use the PIP because of the yellow bar, but I also get the light ghosting from non-full screen material or when playing PS2 (PS2 is notorious for underscanning in the games and for some reason Philip's auto algorithm seems to detect the horizontal black bars just fine and stretch the heigth, but cannot discern the vertical bars and stretch the width). Like you say, watching TV in full screen for a little while clears the image retention. The built in pixel orbiter seems to help with this set though it is annoying once you get close enough since it looks almost like analog static with the little pixels rapidly moving. Have you tried white-washing your set? Just create an NTSC white image on your PC and save it as a jpg to a flash card and display it with the media viewer for a little while and see if the center line goes away. I wish Philips would work some of these issues out. It's not like they aren't putting out firmware updates once a month...they could easily fix the PIP problem. The ghosting could be a lot worse. I have a picture of the LG 50" (the one that is the same as the Zenith) that I had in my home for 3 days. On that unit when it didn't detect a signal it would put a "no signal" oval on screen and move it around. It ghosted so bad you could see the residual "no signal" all over your screen at night as it moved the circle around. I took a digital picture of it to carry with me to CC when I swapped it for the Philips.

The HD PQ on my Philips is amazing. The the regular broadcast pictures are almost equally amazing! So glad I made the decision this purchase this television. And at a knockout price of only $1799. Philips replacement for this model is selling for about $800 more. With less features.

The HD PQ on my Philips is amazing. The the regular broadcast pictures are almost equally amazing! So glad I made the decision this purchase this television. And at a knockout price of only $1799. Philips replacement for this model is selling for about $800 more. With less features.


I've had good luck too. Just don't use the dual-screen PIP !!!!!!! :D

BTW, how is your TV hooked up and what features are missing on the newer model?

I've had good luck too. Just don't use the dual-screen PIP !!!!!!! :D

BTW, how is your TV hooked up and what features are missing on the newer model?

Im using DirecTV HD service. I understand satillite works better than cable. I love it.

The replacement models dosent have as many card readers as our model. And a few other things missing. No Ambilight.

How do you use Pixel Plus on yours? I dont quite understand it's purpose or what it improves.

Im using DirecTV HD service. I understand satillite works better than cable. I love it.


Hey Mikead, I use DirecTV HD also and have mixed results with HD on this set. I'm not sure if it is a setting on my set or the sat service. When you watch a regular network HD show (Grey's Anatomy for example), do you notice square pixels flashing in the background of indoor scenes or in closeups (usually green pixels in flesh tones)? Sporting events (like the worldcup) on the other hand look amazing. I just can't figure it out, and neither can the local service guy. Any ideas?

Any suggestions on settings for sound? I'm noticing I'm having to change volume levels each time I change channels. I don't have HD or a sound system.

Any suggestions on settings for sound? I'm noticing I'm having to change volume levels each time I change channels. I don't have HD or a sound system.

That's not unusual. Just try to find a midpoint for the channels you normally watch. You'll always find differences in volume among the channels, depending on what the program content is. That's been a problem since the early days of TV, but it is getting better. Do you have cable or satellite? It could also be caused on their end. I remember having to jump up to lower or raise the volume on the TV (before remotes) on commercials or after changing channels.

Im using DirecTV HD service. I understand satillite works better than cable. I love it.

The replacement models dosent have as many card readers as our model. And a few other things missing. No Ambilight.

How do you use Pixel Plus on yours? I dont quite understand it's purpose or what it improves.

I keep the Pixel Plus set to ON. It is supposed to "smooth" the image and take out things like compression artifacting and overall blockiness.

Hey Mikead, I use DirecTV HD also and have mixed results with HD on this set. I'm not sure if it is a setting on my set or the sat service. When you watch a regular network HD show (Grey's Anatomy for example), do you notice square pixels flashing in the background of indoor scenes or in closeups (usually green pixels in flesh tones)? Sporting events (like the worldcup) on the other hand look amazing. I just can't figure it out, and neither can the local service guy. Any ideas?

No flashing pixels here. SD channels are amazingly perfect. And the HD channels blow me away. Love it! My wife is WOWED!

No flashing pixels here. SD channels are amazingly perfect. And the HD channels blow me away. Love it! My wife is WOWED!

Upgraded mine today to the new firmware. Amazingly, I plugged in my USB drive with the firmware, and it automatically shut itself off, and turned itself on to load the firmware. I thought I had to turn it off myself and turn it on? Weird.

General impressions:

Finally got rid of the stupid green line on the right when watching my Toshiba HD DVD player.

Moving through the menu seem's to work easier.

The biggest thing for me is the fact I don't have to move the picture around to get rid of the green line.

Also, for those who hear the on/off clicking when the TV is on, and the black screen <shut off/on>, call service. I had Best Buy service come out, they pulled the TV to replace the ambilights for the recall, and they also replaced some circuit boards which seems to have solved the problems.

-Marcus

I've had good luck too. Just don't use the dual-screen PIP !!!!!!! :D

BTW, how is your TV hooked up and what features are missing on the newer model?

A review of the replacement model from C/NET.com:


Quick Take: Philips's 42PF7320A, which CNET did not review, is similar to the 42PF9630A, but there are some important differences. The more-expensive 42PF7320A has first-generation Pixel Plus technology, which may not incorporate the important 2:3 pull-down detection found in the step-up model's Pixel Plus 2 circuitry. We don't know for sure since we haven't tested it, although Philips claims the 42PF7320A has that feature. The 42PF7320A also has different styling, it lacks Philips's trademark Ambilight backlighting, and it doesn't have a memory-card slot for digital photos. Otherwise the two plasmas have the same features, making the 42PF7320A one of the few sub-$2,000 plasmas to offer two HDMI inputs. Picture quality should be nearly identical, with the possible exception of 2:3 pull-down. For more information, refer to the full review of the Philips 42PF9630A.

I am glad I found this forum. I want to tell about my experiences with this unit.

I bought this unit in July 2005 from Circuit City. They had it advertised for $300 off and was also looking at a different Philps unit at Sam's Club that was about the same price but had only 1 HDMI input (perhaps the previous year's model?). I was also looking at the LG but for a $600 difference I though the Philips was a better deal and appeared to have a better picture.

I got the 1-year no-interest financing and bought the television and the salesman asked me if I was interested in the extended warranty, which was $649 for 3 years, and a 5-year warranty was available for a few hundred more. I was going to get it but was put off by the cost and wanted to stay under $3000 for my total cost plus tax. The salesman said that they didn't have any in stock but they should have some in a week and they would call me.

I waited two weeks and hadn't heard anything from them. I called and they said they hadn't received any yet and the only store that had one available was in new part of town in North Phoenix that I wasn't even aware there was a store. He said he'd get the paperwork done so I could pick the unit up at that store.

I drove out there and when I got in the store I was amazed that they were open but apparently still setting up the store. they had several plasma televisions still in their boxes, waiting to go on display. I talked to a salesperson and then a manager and they did whatever coordination they needed to do to get me my television and I think I got the one that was slated for display on their wall.

My dad came with me so I could put it in his Isuzu pickup truck with a camper on it but it turns out the box was too tall to fit. The stockboy, a really dumb-looking Asian kid probably 20 years old or so said that I must always keep the unit vertical or the plasma gas would leak out. He asked if I bought the extended warranty and I told him no and he said "that's really stupid not to buy the extended warranty. The gas leaks on these and they only last a year or so." I should have asked for my money back right then because I know he was feeding my a line of BS.

I called my uncle who has a Chevy Tahoe and he came and we put the unit in the back, but I had to cut the top off the box first because it was still too tall.

I got it home and placed on a Bello TV stand purchased at the other store and hooked it up. I hadn't gone to Cox to get the HD cable box and would have to do that in the next day or so. I got the box the next day and saw that the Scientific Atlanta 3250HD box had a DVI output, not an HDMI output. I went to Wal-Mart and got a Philips conversion cable for around $43. This is when I first started seeing problems. A pink and purple screen came on saying that "your television does not support HDCP so this feature is not supported." That message was coming from the cable box. I checked the manual on the TV and it does in fact support HDCP so I called the cable company. They seemed clueless and suggested that I contact the television manufacturer. I said that the message was coming from the cable box and not the TV. I also mentioned that the unit was extremely hot to the touch, even when powered off and I didn't think this was normal. I went back to the cable store and swapped out boxes. This unit behaved somewhat differently. The message would appear for a few seconds and then the picture would appear and everything seemed fine. However, every few minutes the picture would go away and I would get that message again. I resigned myself to using component cables since I could not detect any noticable difference in picture quality between the DVI/HDMI and the component cables. By this time my wiring was a mess and I decided to redo it when one of the component jacks on the back of the cable box was loose and could cause problems. I went back and got a third cable converter. Same thing. I decided I was wasting my time so I returned the cable to Wal-Mart and decided to stick with component cables.

Once all of this mess was taken care of, the picture quality was amazing. I was very happy with the set. I was watching the DVD of Jaws one night that I had rented and as soon as the opening credits came on the picture would flicker intermittently between the picture and a black screen. I wasn't sure if this was caused by the television (I hoped not), my 5-year old Sony DVD player with component outputs, the cables, or the disc itself. I took the disc upstairs to my computer and tried it there and didn't see any problems so I felt I could rule out the disc. I unhooked my DVD player and took it to my bedroom and hooked it to my 27" JVC TV that has component inputs and had worked flawlessly for several years. I didn't get any problems so I hooked it back to the plasma with different cables and the behavior continued. Turns out the component output from my DVD player was going out so I connected it to the TV with S-video so I could finish the movie.

My cousin worked at Sears in the electronics department. I went to the mall one night after work and he was working so I talked to him for a while. We were talking tech stuff and I told him about my DVD player going bad and he showed me the DVD players they had. This was the first time I had seen DVD players with HDMI 1080i/720p upconversion and this got my interest. They had two units that had this feature, a Toshiba and a Samsung. The Samsung unit was out of stock so I bought the Toshiba. My cousin had mentioned something about plasma TVs and how they suck. I hadn't yet mentioned to him that I just bought one. I asked him why they sucked and he said it was because they are expensive and only last a year or two. I could tell during our conversation that he really didn't know much about the products they sold there, as I spent 2 and a half years working for Best Buy between 1995 and 1998. I realized that I also needed an HDMI cable and they had only Monster Cable for $80 and up, but he said he knew there was a Philips cable in the back that was a lot cheaper so he went and got it for me. It cost $49.

I went home and hooked it up and realized that the Toshiba DVD player was very flimsy. I watched a couple movies over the next couple of weeks and noticed that the picture quality was significantly worse than my old Sony player. I saw in the Sunday paper Sears was advertising a Sony upconverting DVD player for $30 more than the Toshiba so I packed up to exchange. It turns out that Sears did not have the unit in stock so I just asked for a refund. The salesman on the floor that night was a young guy that looked like he'd be more at home selling shoes or something. He said that starting the day before Sears is now charging a 15% restocking fee for all electronics returned after the first 24 hours. I told him they better not charge me because I purchased it three weeks ago. He insisted and I said he had better talk to his manager. He did and when he came back 10 minutes later he said that since my purchase was before that change in policy took effect that I would not be subject to the restocking fee. I got all my money back and went to Circuit City. They did not have the DVD player in stock so I went to Best Buy and got them to price match Sears. I got the player for $131. I rushed home and hooked it up and was very pleased with the picture.

I used both the DVD player and Plasma television for a few weeks and found the firmware updates on the Philips website and have applied them as soon as they came out. I started to see some strange behavior though. First using either the DVD or watching cable, on occasion the picture would go out and if I stopped the DVD player or cable box, turned them off and back on, the picture would come back. Also on occasion the sound would disappear. Also on one occasion, I turned the unit off but the screen would still glow like it was powered on (showing a black screen) and I could hear that sound electronics make when they are powered on. I fiddled with the power switch on the side and with the remote and nothing happened. I unplugged the power from the TV and plugged it in again and then it worked fine.

Around this time I got a letter from Philips regarding a recall on the ambilight unit. I didn't do anything about it for a month or so as I rarely used the ambilight but I eventually decided that I better go ahead and get it fixed anyway. They sent out a tech and he replaced the ambilights and we put it back on the stand and turned it on and I could heard the relays clicking repeatedly and got no picture. The tech thought this was odd and asked if that had happened before. I said no, but I had some other weird behavior so he took the unit with him and said they would get it fixed under warranty. They had my television for three weeks and when I got it back he said he replaced the signal board, the audio board, and the power supply. We hooked it back up and I tested everything and it seemed to be okay. He left and I went to work late that day.

That night I went to adjust the settings because the tech said they did a full system reset and I went to adjust the picture and noticed that the color temperature settings seemed odd -- the cool setting made the picture red and the warm setting made it blue, which was the opposite of what it used to do. Also all but two of the color settings looked really bad and I don't remember them looking that way before. I also noticed that they had rolled back the firmware so I went to upgrade it and the television would not recognize the USB memory stick I had been using before so I tried two others and got the same thing -- it didn't recognize it. I also tried to access some photos on the stick and again it didn't recognize that there was anything connected. I thought that perhaps they forgot to connect the cable running from the side inputs to the signal board so I called the repair guys back and they said I needed to get authorization from Philips so I did that. They said they'd send someone out in a week.

My girlfriend's dad has a 60-inch Philips-Magnavox projection television and the picture was really bad -- all washed out and white. It had been that way for a while and her dad wanted to replace it but realized that he had bought a service contract from Philips. He got the papers and he had purchased a 5-year contract for $99. I was shocked to see how cheap that was compared to what Circuit City wanted for a 3-year contract. I realized that plasma televisions are more complex than a projection TV but I was hoping that maybe I could get one from Philips for a lot less than Circuit City. I looked through my paperwork and didn't see anything so I went on their website. I saw a section about warranty/service contracts but there was no information, only a phone number. I called from work the next day and they said they needed my serial number which I did not have with me. I called the next day with that and they said that I had to call a different number. Well, I got the run-around and after talking to 4 different people I finally got the information I wanted. Philips wanted $449.95 for a 1-year contract, $899.90 for a 2-year contract, and $1,349.95 for a 3-year contract, which was more than twice what Circuit City wanted.

The service tech came out and I showed him some of the problems I was having and he said that the signal board that he had just replaced was probably bad and he would order another one. I also said that I found it odd that my DVD player is connected to HDMI 1 but could be accessed by either selecting HDMI 1 or HDMI 2 on the television input as both worked. I mentioned that I had about a month left on my factory warranty and he said it was a good idea to buy an extended warranty because the signal board is around $500 and if the display goes out it usually costs more to replace it than to buy a new television. I told him what Philips wanted for their warranty and he was shocked. He asked where I bought it and I told him Circuit City and he said I ought to try to buy one from them. I had called and they said they will not sell extended warranties on anything after the first 30 days. He said that didn't sound right and I should ask someone else. He said he'd order the signal board and come back when it arrived so I didn't have to do without a television this time. I went to Circuit City and I asked the salesman (again a teenager) and he said I had to go to customer service for this. I stood in line and spoke with a snotty woman who said that after 30 days I'm SOL.

I've been using the television a lot and when it works it's great. I am still waiting for the signal board to come in but I now have two weeks left on my warranty and am afraid if I have any more problems then I'll have to pay for them.

I guess I am not alone in having problems with the signal board. This appears to be a common problem with these units. If I get another bad one, what recourse do I have when my warranty is expired? Are there lemon laws that can help me, or would there have to be a class-action lawsuit against Philips before anything can happen?

One thing for sure, if I do have to pay for a repair on the same thing again, I will seriously consider just buying a different television, and definitely not from Circuit City. And I won't be getting a Philips. Of course this all depends on the outcome of the new signal board. I am not sceptical about plasma tv's and I would buy another one but it appears that the salepeople either don't know anything about the products they sell or are lying about it having a short lifespan so they can get you to purchase an overpriced service contract.

Also, I noticed that the same Philips HDMI cable I bought at Sears for $49 was being sold at Sam's Club for $28 and the DVI/HDMI cable I bought at Wal-Mart for $43 was also being sold at Sam's Club for $23. I found this surprising that there would be such a significant price difference between Wal-Mart and Sam's Club.

Goodness...where to start on that last post...

First off, it was a mistake to not buy the extended warranty. Unfortunately, Plasma TV's are not like refrigerators or washing machines or the like that will last 20 years w/o problems. If you get a good set, it will last the 40,000+ hours Philips rates it at, but as the forum shows there are a number of people who got lemons. If you browse the other forums you will see people with Panny's, Sony's, and Pioneer's that have problems as well (just not the Black Screen issue that everybody seems to have). Regardless, most manufacturers (Philips should be included) warranty their work for an extra 90 days after a repair is done so if you get the signal board replaced and it doesn't work, then they should replace it again for free. Depending on how many repairs you've had, I might urge Philips to replace your set as a "lemon."

Now for the myths... I got my unit at CC and the sales guys filled me with BS from the start.

1) Yes, you CAN lay your set flat and the gases do NOT leak out. This was a problem with the first plasmas, but do NOT affect the newer generation of sets. Philips even has you lay it flat to remove it from the box before installation, and the repair manual says to lay it flat during repair (on two foam pieces to prevent scratching of the glass). It is not advisable to lay a unit flat during transport because the weight and jarring can break the glass (less force on the glass in upright positions).

2) Plasmas last more than 2 years. The Philips is conservatively rated for 40,000 hours. Unless your TV runs 24 hours a day you will be fine.

3) Please don't buy monster cables...buy your cables online. There is nothing special that makes the $69 monster HDMI cable better than a $12 cable you buy online. That is simply a load of crap.

4) Don't buy an upconverting DVD player if you own a plasma unless you are specifically trying to get an HDMI connection. This is a load of crap also. Your plasma displays EVERYTHING at 1366 x 768p no matter what you feed it. This is the function of the built in scaler. If you give it a 1080i signal, it buffers the interlaced signal and reduces it to 768p. If you give it a 480i signal it buffers it and scales it to 768p. If you give it a 480p signal it scales it to 768p. An upconverting DVD player simply has a scaler built into it to upconvert the 480p signal to 768p or 1080i. Your TV already has a scaler so unless the DVD player's is superior to your TV's, you are wasting money. In other words, line up 4 Philip's displays and feed them the exact same DVD at 480i, 480p, 768p, and 1080i and they will all look practically the same because the display will automatically upconvert/downconvert to 768p. In fact, the 768p/1080i upconverting DVD players may actually look WORSE if the scaler is inferior to the Philips.

5) Sales guys don't know crap about picture quality. The CC sales guy tried to get me to buy the Samsung (which at the time was the same price as the Philips) insisting the PQ was better. My eye couldn't tell the difference, and I wanted the Cablecard slot along w/ the media reader/usb slots. When I found the Philips service manual, to my surprise I found out my unit has the exact same PDP panel (Samsung panel w/ 10,000:1 contrast) as the Samsung (which explains why they both looked good).

Finally, there are different cases of the Black Screen issue. I have the one that is a signal issue (where the unit simply cuts sound/video for several seconds as it "reboots" itself). There are several people who have recorded digital cable shows and it recorded a "hiccup" in the signal that will BS the Philips every single time in the same spot. Others have a Black Screen caused by heat...this should be a service call issue. Others have a Black Screen caused by component failure (signal board, power supply, etc.) which is again a service call issue.

If I were you, I might consider buying the 1 year extended from Philips just to cover you until you get the lemon components replaced and get a solid set. Once you get the right components, your plasma should serve you well and you won't be in the minority of people posting here. Plus I believe the Philips contract has a lemon clause so on the 3rd repair they replace your set.

I had good luck w/ CC on buying the set (other than the dumb salesman). My first unit had a stripe of dead pixels. I didn't find out until after I mounted it on the wall, but CC said I could demount it and they would give me door-to-door replacement or I could drive to another store and trade it out there. I put it on a stand and drove to the other store (faster service...wanted it that day) in my minivan (wife drive, me hold the set). We took it in, they unboxed a new set, tested it, and set it on the stand while my wife screwed it on. We drove it home, removed the stand and set it back on my Omnimount U3. I bought the 3 year warranty (which CC also has the 3 strikes lemon clause).

Once all of this mess was taken care of, the picture quality was amazing. I was very happy with the set. I was watching the DVD of Jaws one night that I had rented and as soon as the opening credits came on the picture would flicker intermittently between the picture and a black screen. I wasn't sure if this was caused by the television (I hoped not), my 5-year old Sony DVD player with component outputs, the cables, or the disc itself. I took the disc upstairs to my computer and tried it there and didn't see any problems so I felt I could rule out the disc. I unhooked my DVD player and took it to my bedroom and hooked it to my 27" JVC TV that has component inputs and had worked flawlessly for several years. I didn't get any problems so I hooked it back to the plasma with different cables and the behavior continued. Turns out the component output from my DVD player was going out so I connected it to the TV with S-video so I could finish the movie.I experienced the same problem from my old Toshiba DVD player, so I went out and bought a Philips up-converting DVD player and hooked it up via component cables (no HDMI cable yet) and the problem went away. I assumed it was my old DVD player causing the problem, but now I wonder. This is the only TV I have with component inputs so I can't try it on a different set.

I love my Philips 42PF9630A HD Plasma HDTV. An amazing addition to my gameroom. Great value too with many features.
One question.....what are reviewers referring to when they speak of contouring in the picture?

Thanks

If I were you, I might consider buying the 1 year extended from Philips just to cover you until you get the lemon components replaced and get a solid set. Once you get the right components, your plasma should serve you well and you won't be in the minority of people posting here. Plus I believe the Philips contract has a lemon clause so on the 3rd repair they replace your set.

I need to call the service center and see what the holdup is on my the replacement signal board. I will also call Philips and spend the money for a 1-year warranty.

I have been searching online and there appears to be a lot of problems with all Philips plasma TVs, and it's a lot of the same problems I've been having, regardless of which model it is. I suppose I should have done my homework before buying it.

If for any reason there is a class action lawsuit against Philips, count me in.

You need to deal with CC on the extended warranty. I got mine for $250 for 3 years, just last month on the 42pf9630.





I am glad I found this forum. I want to tell about my experiences with this unit.


I got the 1-year no-interest financing and bought the television and the salesman asked me if I was interested in the extended warranty, which was $649 for 3 years, and a 5-year warranty was available for a few hundred more. I was going to get it but was put off by the cost and wanted to stay under $3000 for my total cost plus tax. The salesman said that they didn't have any in stock but they should have some in a week and they would call me.
.

You need to deal with CC on the extended warranty. I got mine for $250 for 3 years, just last month on the 42pf9630.

Are their warranties negotiable or did they give you a discount since this is last-year's model? When I worked at Best Buy 11 years ago, we could only haggle on the price if the unit was an open-box/display model. When a warranty was involved, we'd actually mark down the product to compensate for the price of the warranty, basically giving the customer a free warranty although in reality it wasn't. We sometimes had people that were offered this return the warranty and keep the item at the discounted price. We couldn't haggle on any other items since all employees are non-commission, but that didn't stop customers from trying. Of course, we had a glut of big screen televisions because people would buy them for the Superbowl or some other big event and then return it saying they didn't want it -- essentially renting it. This is probably why restocking fees exists, which typically apply to big screen televisions, computers, and digital cameras.

Circuit City refuses to sell me an extended warranty. I talked to two sales people and a manager and they were all rude. They basically said after 30 days I'm SOL. Considering the profit margin on service contracts, I don't see why they wouldn't want to sell me one. Again from my days at Best Buy, we'd say there was a 30-day policy too, just to put pressure on the customer to buy it. A customer isn't likely to buy an extended warranty once they left the store with the product, unless of course there is a problem with the product. I definitely won't be buying from them anymore since my money is apparently not good there. I just went to their website and downloaded the brochure and didn't see anything about any time limits except for how long you could cancel the warranty and still receive a refund.

I have also heard rumors that Circuit City and others will basically replace a defective unit instead of fixing it because it costs less for them to do that. However, since most electronics are replaced with a new model every year, I've seen in my own experience in the industry that there isn't always a comparable model available, which leads to upset customers. I've seen firsthand the store offer a cheaper (in price and quality) model as a replacement, and this is highly likely since plasma televisions get cheaper every year. If you paid $3000 for a plasma TV one year and a year or two it needs to be replaced, a compareable model could possibly cost half that. The store may say the model is comparable but the customer likely will not because they paid for a $3000 television and they want it replaced with a $3000 television, which probably isn't going to happen. In cases where they actually try to fix the unit, they're likely to be at the mercy of the manufacturer to supply the parts.

I generally don't purchase service contracts these stores sell, except for items that are very expensive (such as my plasma tv) or for items I've owned and had problems with in the past. I had purchased a Yamaha receiver from Best Buy before I quit working there and got a 4-year service plan. During that period, the unit started turning itself off and on intermittently. I took it in for service and they kid behind the counter said that if they couldn't find a problem with the unit they would charge me a "no-fault" fee. I can't remember if it was $50 or $99, since this was five years ago, but that fee was not part of the original contract that I signed, and they shouldn't be able to change the terms at their whim. I ended up buying another reciever at Showcase Home Entertainment (aka Tweeter) and haven't had any problems with that unit whatsoever.

I went ahead and purchased the 1-year contract from Philips. I hope by then either the problems will all be figured out or there will be enough people complaining (lawsuit or not) that they'll have to do something. I doubt that they want a ton of bad publicity. See how they handled the recall?

I actually purchased the unit 1 year ago today, but according to Philips my warranty doesn't expire until 7/21/06.

I called the service center too and they said that Philips acknowledged the request but the part hasn't come in yet. Who knows how long I will have to wait. Luckily I can still use the unit. It just acts weird sometimes.

That's not unusual. Just try to find a midpoint for the channels you normally watch. You'll always find differences in volume among the channels, depending on what the program content is. That's been a problem since the early days of TV, but it is getting better. Do you have cable or satellite? It could also be caused on their end. I remember having to jump up to lower or raise the volume on the TV (before remotes) on commercials or after changing channels.

I just have cable which the wire is directly hooked up to the tv. I just started to notice there are little popping sounds coming from the right speaker? Anyone else experience this? I don't turn up my speakers very loud at all. Thanks Anglico for ur response.

Goodness...where to start on that last post...

4) Don't buy an upconverting DVD player if you own a plasma unless you are specifically trying to get an HDMI connection. This is a load of crap also. Your plasma displays EVERYTHING at 1366 x 768p no matter what you feed it. This is the function of the built in scaler. If you give it a 1080i signal, it buffers the interlaced signal and reduces it to 768p. If you give it a 480i signal it buffers it and scales it to 768p. If you give it a 480p signal it scales it to 768p. An upconverting DVD player simply has a scaler built into it to upconvert the 480p signal to 768p or 1080i. Your TV already has a scaler so unless the DVD player's is superior to your TV's, you are wasting money. In other words, line up 4 Philip's displays and feed them the exact same DVD at 480i, 480p, 768p, and 1080i and they will all look practically the same because the display will automatically upconvert/downconvert to 768p. In fact, the 768p/1080i upconverting DVD players may actually look WORSE if the scaler is inferior to the Philips.

I experience the same improvement in Picture Quality when I Purchased a Sony upconvertng DVD player. Lord of the rings - Return of the King looked absolutely amazing after buying the unit. I am still using the old DVD player downstairs on the Projection TV and it looks great on that TV. Perhaps I have another problem with my TV and the internal scaler does not work properly.

I experience the same improvement in Picture Quality when I Purchased a Sony upconvertng DVD player. Lord of the rings - Return of the King looked absolutely amazing after buying the unit. I am still using the old DVD player downstairs on the Projection TV and it looks great on that TV. Perhaps I have another problem with my TV and the internal scaler does not work properly.

I have an "upconverting" DVD recorder (a Panasonic ES-25). I found that it worked best to use the digital HDMI connection/cable, but set the DVD/R to 480p video resolution. This allows the 42PF9630A to upscale the video resolution one time while leaving all the options for: movie expand 16:9, super zoom, 16:9 subtitle, automatic, wide screen, etc, formats to be active. If I set the DVD/R to 1080i, then the TV only allows for automatic or wide screen format plus the PQ is about the same or maybe slightly worse (probably due to both the recorder and TV rescale of the images).

By any chance were you using a Toshiba SD-1600? I had the same component dropouts with this DVD player hooked up by component to my 9630a. Switched to a Sylvania dvd/vcr combo player via component and the problem went away. Definitely bad component outs on the Toshiba player.


I experienced the same problem from my old Toshiba DVD player, so I went out and bought a Philips up-converting DVD player and hooked it up via component cables (no HDMI cable yet) and the problem went away. I assumed it was my old DVD player causing the problem, but now I wonder. This is the only TV I have with component inputs so I can't try it on a different set.

what is the latest firmware? Has their been an updated. i know there was a new one at one point though it was still labeled the old version on the site. Then I heard there was some problems with that update which was why we thought they revoked it and went back to the last and why I didn't update. But haven't heard anything since.

I guess the only way to know for sure now is to check my tv and check the Philips site to see what the latest version is.

What is ment by contouring in the image? I read this in some plasma reviews.

if you have the 7320 dont waste your money....

I am glad I found this forum. I want to tell about my experiences with this unit.
Holy post batman

I have an "upconverting" DVD recorder (a Panasonic ES-25). I found that it worked best to use the digital HDMI connection/cable, but set the DVD/R to 480p video resolution. This allows the 42PF9630A to upscale the video resolution one time while leaving all the options for: movie expand 16:9, super zoom, 16:9 subtitle, automatic, wide screen, etc, formats to be active. If I set the DVD/R to 1080i, then the TV only allows for automatic or wide screen format plus the PQ is about the same or maybe slightly worse (probably due to both the recorder and TV rescale of the images).

This was exactly what I was trying to explain earlier. "Upconverting" DVD recorders are a waste of money when used with most flat panels because the panel itself will upconvert any 480p material given to it and then it just becomes a battle of the upconverters. If you are getting a recorder, look for the HDMI and if it's an upconverting unit, just use 480p and let the Philips do the upconverting.

I had a major popping sound in my left speaker even when it was on mute. Whenever i changed the channel it would pop extremely loud. I use a 6.1 sound system and don't use the speakers on the TV. I was considering calling Philips to have it repaired, but it went away on its own. I don't know if the left speaker even works since I don't use them. I'll check tonight.

I just have cable which the wire is directly hooked up to the tv. I just started to notice there are little popping sounds coming from the right speaker? Anyone else experience this? I don't turn up my speakers very loud at all. Thanks Anglico for ur response.

This was exactly what I was trying to explain earlier. "Upconverting" DVD recorders are a waste of money when used with most flat panels because the panel itself will upconvert any 480p material given to it and then it just becomes a battle of the upconverters. If you are getting a recorder, look for the HDMI and if it's an upconverting unit, just use 480p and let the Philips do the upconverting.

I wouldn't say a total waste of money. While shopping for a DVD recorder, I didn't see any that had the HDMI connection that didn't also have the upconverting feature. I was just saying that I still got the digital HDMI connection and best image results by turning the upconverting feature off and using 480p resolution.

I have an "upconverting" DVD recorder (a Panasonic ES-25). I found that it worked best to use the digital HDMI connection/cable, but set the DVD/R to 480p video resolution. This allows the 42PF9630A to upscale the video resolution one time while leaving all the options for: movie expand 16:9, super zoom, 16:9 subtitle, automatic, wide screen, etc, formats to be active. If I set the DVD/R to 1080i, then the TV only allows for automatic or wide screen format plus the PQ is about the same or maybe slightly worse (probably due to both the recorder and TV rescale of the images).

Interesting. I have my Sony upconverting DVD player (I can't remember the model #) set to 480p and only get the auto or wide screen modes available. I hate watching 2.35:1 movies because the screen is just to small even on a 50", I'd rather zoom in a touch. What firmware are you running?

Interesting. I have my Sony upconverting DVD player (I can't remember the model #) set to 480p and only get the auto or wide screen modes available. I hate watching 2.35:1 movies because the screen is just to small even on a 50", I'd rather zoom in a touch. What firmware are you running?

I am running the BX23U-1.3.0.0_01481 version of the firmware on the TV. Are you using an HDMI cable/connection? Did you set your DVD player to 4:3 or 16:9? Yeah, I prefer to zoom in also. Black bars on the side or top & bottom seems like a waste of real estate that we all paid ~ $2000 for.

Holy post batman


Several people have been complaining about the BS issue. I guess I've had better luck. So far in 4+ months of owning the Philips, I have seen the TV "recycle" it's power from ON to OFF to back ON only a couple of times. Seems like I also had to unplug the TV once to get it to power up, as instructed by the Philips web site, but then it seemed to work normally after that.

Does anyone know the total production number(s) for the 42PF9630A and the true scope of the BS problem? The link you cited claims "most" Philips TV's suffer from the BS issue, but lacks any hard numbers.

Repair shop returned my TV today and claims the Main Signal board (42611 NP Panel - listed as part on my repair receipt) is the source of the Black Screen Problem. He specifically instructed me to not to attempt any more firware updates. He told me that if I attempted to upgrade the firmware via the USB port, this can damage the main signal board and will ultimately lead to problems with the TV.

Crossing fingers and hoping BS issue is now gone for good!

Repair shop returned my TV today and claims the Main Signal board (42611 NP Panel - listed as part on my repair receipt) is the source of the Black Screen Problem. He specifically instructed me to not to attempt any more firware updates. He told me that if I attempted to upgrade the firmware via the USB port, this can damage the main signal board and will ultimately lead to problems with the TV.

Crossing fingers and hoping BS issue is now gone for good!
Not to sound funny or anything... but are you sure? Can you provide any more info than that? It sounds like a bunch of posts I've read but days later, the bs is back.

Does anyone know the total production number(s) for the 42PF9630A and the true scope of the BS problem? The link you cited claims "most" Philips TV's suffer from the BS issue, but lacks any hard numbers.If Philips is just now recognizing the problem, Im not sure that kind of info is available yet.

I am running the BX23U-1.3.0.0_01481 version of the firmware on the TV. Are you using an HDMI cable/connection? Did you set your DVD player to 4:3 or 16:9? Yeah, I prefer to zoom in also. Black bars on the side or top & bottom seems like a waste of real estate that we all paid ~ $2000 for.

Ah, I'm running 1.2.0.0_01 so that may be it. I am also running HDMI and the DVD should be on 16:9. I'll post up again when I get the newer firmware in.

Thanks

I hope I am helping with additional data point, rather than confusing the issue -
I have both the 42pf7320A (11 months) as well as the 42pf9630A (10 months). However, I cannot remember having any black screen problem.
I have always upgraded the firmware when available, the latest being BX23U-1.3.0.0_01481.

Philips does address the black screen issue and how to resolve it. In the troubleshotting section of it's manuals it says it is caused by electrostatic discharge and simply to unplug the TV for 10 seconds then replug. After all these televisions are in reality computers.

HDMI question: Is there a trick to getting the Philips to recognize a component via HDMI? I feel like I have tried everything to get my TV to recognize my media player, but it won't. Recognizes my DVD player without problem. I thought it might be a defective cable (bought a new one), or that one of the two HDMI inputs was faulty (traded them around with not luck), but that doesn't appear to be the case. The media player works when I use the RCA jack, but not the HDMI.

Any thoughts? Philips customer service just said to physically unplug the TV and plug it back in, then try again. D-Link didn't have any better suggestions. My old one worked just fine (until it broke, but that is a different story). so I'm pretty stumped!

Thanks

HDMI question: Is there a trick to getting the Philips to recognize a component via HDMI? I feel like I have tried everything to get my TV to recognize my media player, but it won't. Recognizes my DVD player without problem. I thought it might be a defective cable (bought a new one), or that one of the two HDMI inputs was faulty (traded them around with not luck), but that doesn't appear to be the case. The media player works when I use the RCA jack, but not the HDMI.

Any thoughts? Philips customer service just said to physically unplug the TV and plug it back in, then try again. D-Link didn't have any better suggestions. My old one worked just fine (until it broke, but that is a different story). so I'm pretty stumped!

Thanks


What do you mean by "component via HDMI"? Is your "Media Player" a computer?

Philips does address the black screen issue and how to resolve it. In the troubleshotting section of it's manuals it says it is caused by electrostatic discharge and simply to unplug the TV for 10 seconds then replug. After all these televisions are in reality computers.


The one or two times this happened to me, unplugging the TV fixed it as well.

Ah, I'm running 1.2.0.0_01 so that may be it. I am also running HDMI and the DVD should be on 16:9. I'll post up again when I get the newer firmware in.

Thanks

Haha - I upgraded to 1.3.0.0_xxxxx and then checked the output of the DVD...it was set to 720p :rolleyes: So after switching it to 480p I have all the options for zoom. So most likely it was the DVD and not the firmware, though I guess I could roll back and find out...

What do you mean by "component via HDMI"? Is your "Media Player" a computer?

It is a Dlink DSM-520, so essentially it is a computer of sorts that links my PC to my television so that I can watch videos from the PC in HD (well, supposedly in HD though it usually just looks like SD to my eyes).

I tested the unit on a Sony Wega DLP and Philip's 50" plasma with the same result--nothing displayed on the screen. Time to call D-link again!

By any chance were you using a Toshiba SD-1600? I had the same component dropouts with this DVD player hooked up by component to my 9630a. Switched to a Sylvania dvd/vcr combo player via component and the problem went away. Definitely bad component outs on the Toshiba player.
Mine is the Toshiba SD-2200 dual-disk, Probably same electronics inside. I've since taken the Philips DVP5960 player back and exchanged it for the Sony DVP-NC85H changer. No matter what I did I couldn't get a picture on the Philips player to satisfy me, the Sony is much better!

Not to sound funny or anything... but are you sure? Can you provide any more info than that? It sounds like a bunch of posts I've read but days later, the bs is back.

Apparently the repair shop that had my TV had no idea what they where talking about. After (1) day of trouble free viewing the Black Screen Issue returned and now occurs at least once per day. Unplugging the TV does fix the problem, but this is ridiculous.

This obviously gives very little credence to the repair shop claim that upgrading the firmware via USB will cause problems. He obviously has no idea what he is talking about. Now I'm now zero for 2 with repair shops...

Apparently the repair shop that had my TV had no idea what they where talking about. After (1) day of trouble free viewing the Black Screen Issue returned and now occurs at least once per day. Unplugging the TV does fix the problem, but this is ridiculous.

This obviously gives very little credence to the repair shop claim that upgrading the firmware via USB will cause problems. He obviously has no idea what he is talking about. Now I'm now zero for 2 with repair shops...


I agree with your view about the USB upgrades not being the problem (though maybe not the solution either).

Just a thought, but have you tried using the Philips TV in a different room to see if the BS due to "electrostatic buildup" occurs there too? Do you use currently plug your TV into a 3-pronged outlet in the wall? If electrostatic buildup is indeed the problem, maybe your TV is somehow not grounded properly.

I agree with your view about the USB upgrades not being the problem (though maybe not the solution either).

Just a thought, but have you tried using the Philips TV in a different room to see if the BS due to "electrostatic buildup" occurs there too? Do you use currently plug your TV into a 3-pronged outlet in the wall? If electrostatic buildup is indeed the problem, maybe your TV is somehow not grounded properly.

Thanks for the advice, I will try to change the setup and see if this has any affect. Philips told me today I had to go back to the repair shop for a third time. Philips has a 3 times major repair replacement policy.

Thanks for the advice, I will try to change the setup and see if this has any affect. Philips told me today I had to go back to the repair shop for a third time. Philips has a 3 times major repair replacement policy.

I can't put any consistancy to this problem at all. After only seeing it about once per month, now I'm seeing it once per week. I never have it happen on the tuner nor input 3 (my DVD via component), but rather on input 1 (my PS2 via component). It's happened within 5 minutes of using it and it's happened after an hour or so, so I think that rules out "overheating." Each time it's the soft reboot, no sound, no picture, no response from remote, unit reboots in less than a minute. To make matters worse, the unit turned itself ON the other day. It came on all by itself and changed to tuner channel 125 (color bars on TW where I live). After turning itself on by itself I called service. Hopefully they will either get this fixed or CC will replace my unit with a 50PF9631A/37 since the 50PF9630A/37 is end-of-life.

I can't put any consistancy to this problem at all. After only seeing it about once per month, now I'm seeing it once per week. I never have it happen on the tuner nor input 3 (my DVD via component), but rather on input 1 (my PS2 via component). It's happened within 5 minutes of using it and it's happened after an hour or so, so I think that rules out "overheating." Each time it's the soft reboot, no sound, no picture, no response from remote, unit reboots in less than a minute. To make matters worse, the unit turned itself ON the other day. It came on all by itself and changed to tuner channel 125 (color bars on TW where I live). After turning itself on by itself I called service. Hopefully they will either get this fixed or CC will replace my unit with a 50PF9631A/37 since the 50PF9630A/37 is end-of-life.

I feel your pain on this issue and agree it's not consistent. Working in the software industry, I understand that if you can't repeat a problem it's very difficult to find the root cause and solve the issue. This is what happens when the TV goes to the repair shop. They hook it up and cannot duplicate the issue, so they try replacing boards in the hopes the issue will be solved. I feel I have no choice but to go back to the authorized service center and have them "try" to fix this again so I can be on record with Philips. This way I have some leverage with customer service to get the unit replaced.

This was posted by sgr215 in the Philips 42PF7320 thread.

http://home.comcast.net/~sgr215/warning.htm

I tried it last night and upgrade worked fine. No, BS, but I haven't noticed it with the frequency that some have.

I'm really disappointed to see that this BS issue is as widespread as it apparently is. Many months ago I posted about an intermittent BS soft reboot type of problem which started about a month after getting the 9630. Everything I saw led me to believe it was connected to power fluctuations. Bottom line though, is that this has not reoccured in probably 5 or 6 months. Nothing has been done other than firmware updates.

Has anyone else experienced the problem initially but then have it virtually disappear?

This was posted by sgr215 in the Philips 42PF7320 thread.

http://home.comcast.net/~sgr215/warning.htm
I call BS... like I said in the LCD thread... (no pun intended) Phlips needs to address their registered customers or update their site.

So, after weeks of research, I went ahead and bought the new Philips model (42PF9631D) on July 11. Here's my brief report:

I'm not sure if this is the same black-screen (BS) problem that others have reported, but my TV screen has gone black 4 times since I bought it. However, the TV seems to "reboot" itself and comes back on after about 15-30 seconds. Still very annoying. Then today, my TV set lost audio. I tried changing channels and turning it on/off. The only thing that restored audio was when I unplugged the set and plugged it back in.

I had hoped that the new model wouldn't suffer from the same BS issues as the 9630, but it looks like I was wrong. At a minimum, having problems this early on is not a good sign, and I feel compelled to assume that things will only get worse.

So the upshot is that I'm looking into exchanging the TV for another model. I
bought it at BB <30 days ago, so I still have time to return it. I'm going to do some research on the Samsung, LG, and perhaps some other models. I just can't go with the Panny because I think it's too ugly (even though I'm told the PQ is great).

Any suggestions on replacement sets before I wade back into the mix? Thanks.

gdspdx - Try the unofficially released July firmware. It supposedly fixes the black screen (if it's compatible with your unit). Also, if you don't mind, can you do the 123654 code on your unit and tell us what your option codes are? The 9631 supposedly enables the EPG on digital channels and I'd like to see if I can figure out which bit it is moved to so we can enable it on earlier units. Also post what version of code your system came with.

gdspdx - Try the unofficially released July firmware. It supposedly fixes the black screen (if it's compatible with your unit).
I Strongly suggest against doing that. You will void your warranty, as stated by Philips in my recent phone call about this issue.

I Strongly suggest against doing that. You will void your warranty, as stated by Philips in my recent phone call about this issue.

I'm not surprised by the phone reps response. I would tell you the same thing. Obviously Philips wants you to wait for the official release. Here's the facts though:

1. This firmware WILL be official soon.
2. Once it's official, how would Philips even know who installed the version before its official release?
3. You can always revert back to old firmware if you're paranoid about your warranty and you need service.
4. The warning page was orginally there because when I first received the firmware I refused to test it. At this point I didn't even know if it was real or perhaps someone trying to get a kick out of destroying a bunch of plasma TV's. Since then numerous users, including myself (I only installed it once I got several emails stating it was real), have tested it. Here's the results:

a) Upon comparing it in your average hex editor to that of an official version it appears to be a real firmware release.
b) I, among many others, have had it installed for several days now. I've tested almost every feature of the software and have yet to notice any bugs. Everything from picture/color settings to the sleeptimer work just fine.
c) I've yet to receive any emails or PM's from users with the software installed stating they still have the BS.
d) I've yet to receive any emails or PM's from users with the software installed stating they have had any other issues with the software

5. I'm now certain this software originated from someone at Philips. The source code isn't available to the public thus making it impossible to be compiled by a private individual.

This is essentially a public beta test. Will it void your warranty? Probably not. Will I buy you a new TV if in the unlikely event it does? Nope. Although its just a theory i'm entertaining the thought that Philips is running a silent beta test and monitoring how the new unofficial firmware is working on those of us with the firmware installed. That way if people still get the BS Philips could go back to modifying the code even more before making an official public release and thus not releasing a second modified version shortly after the first. I wouldn't be surprised by this considering the BS is very hard to replicate in the lab.

The one or two times this happened to me, unplugging the TV fixed it as well.


Yes, but when TV is wall mounted, thats not easy. I found I had to run to basement and throw the circuit breaker to reset my Philips. :mad: And sorry, but its just not normal, my replacement TV has never ever had this sort of issue.

To those of you not following the 42PF7320A thread I suggest you check it out. You'll find a two part interview with an anonymous source over at Philips. According to the source this "unofficial" firmware version will be released on the Philips website in about a week. It will be a direct duplicate of the one available now, thus making it official. When asked if it would void your warranty here's a summary of the response:

Nope, this will be the official version located at Philips directly soon. It's surprising to me that users at AVS are concerned about this considering many of them change options in the service menu and skip right over the "void warranty" screen. (He/she also warns about entering the service menu)

Part 1 of the interview is located at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8112529&&#post8112529

Part 2 is located at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8114443&&#post8114443

Can I get an AMEN and a Hallelejiah for Brother sgr215??? This is what we've been looking for!! I would encourage everyone who has experienced the BS to read his 2-part interview. Again props to you sgr215.

Yes, but when TV is wall mounted, thats not easy. I found I had to run to basement and throw the circuit breaker to reset my Philips. :mad: And sorry, but its just not normal, my replacement TV has never ever had this sort of issue.

Well, from what I've read elsewhere on this thread, it appears that "help is on the way". The user "sgr215" states he discussed the problem with Philips and found out that a firmware fix is due shortly. Further, the "beta" of this fix seems to have greatly helped those have tried it to solve their BS problem(s).

To those of you not following the 42PF7320A thread I suggest you check it out. You'll find a two part interview with an anonymous source over at Philips. According to the source this "unofficial" firmware version will be released on the Philips website in about a week. It will be a direct duplicate of the one available now, thus making it official. When asked if it would void your warranty here's a summary of the response:



Part 1 of the interview is located at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8112529&&#post8112529

Part 2 is located at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=8114443&&#post8114443


Thanks for following up this BS problem and firmware update with Philips. I was wondering though, did Philips mention any other improvements or fixes coming with the "1.4.0.0" firmware update?

The readme file that accompanied the beta firmware only stated the video loss issue.

So, after weeks of research, I went ahead and bought the new Philips model (42PF9631D) on July 11. Here's my brief report:

I'm not sure if this is the same black-screen (BS) problem that others have reported, but my TV screen has gone black 4 times since I bought it. However, the TV seems to "reboot" itself and comes back on after about 15-30 seconds. Still very annoying. Then today, my TV set lost audio. I tried changing channels and turning it on/off. The only thing that restored audio was when I unplugged the set and plugged it back in.

I had hoped that the new model wouldn't suffer from the same BS issues as the 9630, but it looks like I was wrong. At a minimum, having problems this early on is not a good sign, and I feel compelled to assume that things will only get worse.

So the upshot is that I'm looking into exchanging the TV for another model. I
bought it at BB <30 days ago, so I still have time to return it. I'm going to do some research on the Samsung, LG, and perhaps some other models. I just can't go with the Panny because I think it's too ugly (even though I'm told the PQ is great).

Any suggestions on replacement sets before I wade back into the mix? Thanks.


42" 9631D? because it looks like there is a 32" model. I'm assuming that is the new ambilight model with light on top and bottom in addition to the sides like the old model including the one this thread is about?

where did you get it? it doesn't seem to show up on any american sites for sale really when i google it. only european ones. Saw a couple smaller pictures of it and it looks nice.

Can't believe the new one gets the black screen too, i'm happy to report that after exchanging my unit I dont think i ever had any bs or problem at all really with my 42pf9630 but my first one was a 2004 or 2005 i forget and had problems and the new one was one year newer 2005 or 2006 and has no problems though I did upgrade the firmware in April or May i think.

So there is a new firmware released in July? is it good what does it add. Since i have no problems I am reluctant. I have even accessed the service menu and enabled stereo ambilight which is very nice.

It has been a great bedroom set especially for watching in the dark as the ambilight makes enough extra lighting and cool lighting effect in bedroom. Most channels and shows look great especially HD but even on demand stuff which usually isn't in hd looks great.

my ony concern is that sometimes i see some writing at bottom or top cut off and i know i can adjust witht he circular pad on the controler up and down but even right in the middle it seem like some working like One Moment Please when loading up on demand channel is just slightly cut off as if the picture is too big for the screen and needs to be resized so adjusting it up or down even perfectly wont get it all insdie the screen.

i do see the screen adjust size a lot depending the on show/channel etc. and thats the cable box doing that.

nothing is really cut off though and you still read the letter at far top and bottom just the very top of it or very bottom of it is cut off. other then that no complaints.

i will say that being a bedroom tv it gets very light use so maybe that helps. i dont know if its the best tv for main room daily heavy use, but bedroom minor use its great.

once the next model comes out I might look into the current one with light above and below when they gets cheap before newe model just like this past one did before the new one came out. got a good price and think towards the end or if any left you could prob do even a little beter then i did online. but buying from local store is safer for return/exchange.

after reading the post about the interview of the other philips ambilight thread which i think i'm even subscribed to that thread but havne' been following figuring its not the model i have.

So, is the firmware released on the site yet?

oh bleh that was posted yesterday so i guess it will be up a week from yesterday. I'll check then and update my tv then I guess. working fine though with no black screen with the last firmware before this unless there was one i missed. was the last april before this besides the fake out new one on the site which was still labeled the old one until you downloaded it but then ppl said it had some problems so it was also like a beta firmware update.

is that the same one they were talking about being a beta firmware update.

I just wanted to clarify that according to the "anonymous source" the firmware isn't a beta. It is the official version which should be available on the Philips website by the end of the week. Apparently the firmware has been "final" for awhile now but due to technical difficulties, totally unrelated to the firmware itself, it has been delayed.

As for new features I personally haven't noticed any difference other than the fact my TV actually doesn't black out now. :D (Another user mentioned a new lock feature but I haven't noticed it... then again I don't use locks.)

The new firmware is up on the Philips' site (though the date is not relabelled, yet. It is specifically for the BS problem.

Good work SGR 215.

I read that the new firmware has NOT fixed the bs issue...that someone still gets the bs. Do you know whats going on sgr?

I read that the new firmware has NOT fixed the bs issue...that someone still gets the bs. Do you know whats going on sgr?

So far i've only heard of one person who got the BS after the firmware install. The user got it while switching channels using the QAM tuner. I don't use the QAM tuner and haven't had a BS since the new firmware. It does make me wonder if the bug still exists somewhere in the software when using the QAM tuner. I wouldn't be surprised, imagine looking over thousands of lines of coding, finding the bug, fixing it, and then forgetting a similar line of code with the bug still exists elsewhere too. I still think we need to wait until more users get the firmware installed to see just how many still get the BS.

I did forward this users experience to the source who said he/she would forward it to the development team and see if they could discover anything regarding the QAM tuner and the BS.

Hope this helps,
Steve

I've had my Philips for almost a year now, and thought that I did not experience the BS issue.

But while playing DVD's, the set would sometime go black. I blamed it on the DVD player and the DVD itself, since I "backup" my own DVD's.

But last week I discovered a DVD that would cause the BS issue at two different spots in the movie.

Same exact time marked spots, BS every time. Remote control is unresponsive (green light on Philips flickers in response to any commands but nothing happens), and the only way to restore the set is to unplug it and plug it back in.

I've never had BS with broadcast or cable. I downloaded the new firmware upgrade last night and will install it and play that very same DVD and see what happens when it reaches those two spots.

I had the same problem. Go through the advanced menu on the cable box, by default it doesn't pass audio through the HDMI. You can change that setting. It would be pointless returning that wonderful Philips TV.

BTW pick up an AV receiver and some speakers, the sound is much better than thru the TV. The 5.1 from the SA is excellent.

I purchased my Philips 42PF9630A HD Plasma on August 1 from CC. I have also purchased the CC Protection Plan, and the OmniMount U3 Tilt Wall Mount (have not hung the unit yet). Here is a short summary of my experience since then.

Pre-SA8300HD-DVR:
Before I received my HD cable hookup, I spent a good amount of time becoming familiar with the TV's general features and setting; in particular, Philips Slideshow option. I filled up my Memory Stick Pro media and USB Sandisk Flash drive with high resolution images and mp3s, and created my own custom slideshow, which turned out to display the images beautifully. NOTES: 1) background music while displaying the images is not limited to 1 song; you can create a playlist of mp3s to loop, make sure to save the playlist as a .pls file and not the Winamp default .m3u which will not be recognized. 2) I was using Photoshop CS to scale down some of my higher resolution images, and although the specs say that the native resolution of the TV is 1024x768, I found that the resolution that maximizes the most screen real-estate is 1366x768. When I scaled images to 1024x768, the notorious black bars presented themselves; but when scaled to 1366x768 the images filled the screen completely and perfectly. I also used my USB flash drive to update the TV’s firmware, which I will discuss a bit later. 3) Because I spent the first week without any live TV feed, I spent a considerable amount of time on the menu screens and displaying my collection of static images with the slideshow feature. I was taken aback on the 4th night when I had the TV on, but with no TV feed, menu up on the screen, or image on the screen – essentially the screen was “glowing” black – I saw the outline of the Philips menu, in particular the TV icon on the top left hand corner of the screen. I was concerned this may have been early signs of burn-in, and the effect lasted for the better part of 2 days. It has since disappeared, most likely due to watching a TV feed once I received my cable box, and was probably just an example of image retention or ghosting?! I’m not sure, but I know it no longer is visible on the plasma screen.

SA8300HD-DVR Cable Box
The SA8300HD-DVR is the newest HD recorder available from Scientific Atlantic on Time Warner Cable, and its most attractive feature is the HDMI output, which is not available on any other boxes carried by Time Warner Cable. I first connected the SA8300HD via the HDMI output – I purchased a Radio Shack Gold Series HDMI cable for around $50 – and received a beautiful picture on the plasma, especially on the HD channels, but alas, NO SOUND. I could not get sound of the plasma. NOTE: 1) I have not tried a different HDMI cable. 2) I have a bi-directional cable splitter for my cable modem, and have not tried connecting the direct cable line, sans the splitter, into the SA8300HD. 3) I called customer service and tried setting the Digital Audio In input to HDMI-1, and I still received no sound. 4) Once I tried using the SA8300HD with HD component video cables, with standard L and R audio cables, the sound worked instantly, and I have been watching TV using the component and audio cables ever since. 5) I have not tried my HDMI connection with an up-conversion DVD player to test the sound, as I have no yet purchased the Panasonic S77S that I want. 5) When I called customer service concering the HDMI issue, they informed me that 1 other customer was having similar issues with the digital audio via the HDMI cable being MUTED, and that the firmware update available online would resolve the problem. I went to the website and downloaded the firmware again, and place it on my USB flash drive as I had done before. The manual says that if you try and re-install firmware that is the same version, or an older version, than is currently installed a warning screen should pop up and ask you if you are sure that you want to continue. I receive no such warning screen, and the TV says that it cannot find any updating software on my USB flash drive. Customer service had no answers and recommended returning the TV for an exchange since I had 30 days for a full refund or exchange, no questions asked, at CC. So I took their advice, and am having the TV picked up on Sat morning. They will be dropping off a brand new exchange, and hopefully, once I complete the firmware upgrade, the HDMI ports will function properly, with full digital sound. If not, I will be returning the Philips permanently, and will continue looking for a set with these many connectivity options and features at the low price of 2,300.

I have only one problem with my 9630A. I use a cablecard and the TV doesn't save my favorite channels anytime I shut it off. I used to have a problem each time I turned the TV on with it trying to find all the appropriate channels, but the prior firmware fixed that mapping problem. SGR215, could you pass that one to your contact?

thanks

Had a BS this evening, only about the fourth one since getting the set last November. Time to try that new firmware...

The newest firmware dated 8/2/06 is a fix for the BS. Get it at the Phillips website.

Is it worth upgrade to the new firmware if you have the second to newest (I believe) and don't have any problems?

according to the pdf file, the only improvement in the firmware relates to the BS issue, so, Quatre, the answer is no.

according to the pdf file, the only improvement in the firmware relates to the BS issue, so, Quatre, the answer is no.

IMO I would do all the upgrades. Thats the best policy. I never had the BS but i will upgrade!

They currently have this on their Phillips outlet price at about 1/2 the price that some members here bought their sets at. Do you think this would be a good price. I don't think we can discuss pricing, but I am trying to choose between this 42 inch plasma and a 32 inch LCD Vizio from Sam's Club.

The Phillips only has a 90 day rtrn with no extended warranty

The Vizio has a 1 year warranty and the 3 year extended warranty from Sam's Club is like $80.

If your a current Phillips owner, would u buy this set again?

They currently have this on their Phillips outlet price at about 1/2 the price that some members here bought their sets at. Do you think this would be a good price. I don't think we can discuss pricing, but I am trying to choose between this 42 inch plasma and a 32 inch LCD Vizio from Sam's Club.

The Phillips only has a 90 day rtrn with no extended warranty

The Vizio has a 1 year warranty and the 3 year extended warranty from Sam's Club is like $80.

If your a current Phillips owner, would u buy this set again?

Absolutly....beautiful HDTV! One of the best at a great price. Stay away from the Vizio!

Absolutly....beautiful HDTV! One of the best at a great price. Stay away from the Vizio!

Well I but the bullet and decided to buy one. Now to research how to mount this on the wall. I'll read this thread to make sure I get it set up correctly and hope I don't get the Black screen everyone talks about.

Well I but the bullet and decided to buy one. Now to research how to mount this on the wall. I'll read this thread to make sure I get it set up correctly and hope I don't get the Black screen everyone talks about.

Just be sure to get the firmware upgrade from the Philip's support website. Actually...I bought mine a couple of months ago and have never experienced BS. But I downloaded the upgrade and keep it on my hard drive until I do get a BS. No big deal though. One thing that might happen....is there is a electrostatic charge the TV will shut down and blink a red light. All you have to to is flip the surge protector switch once. This is explained in the manual on CD that comes with your set. Plasma is sensitive to electrostatic. But fear no damage. Enjoy...it's a wonderful television and an amazing picture. Hope your using DirecTV!

Just be sure to get the firmware upgrade from the Philip's support website. Actually...I bought mine a couple of months ago and have never experienced BS. But I downloaded the upgrade and keep it on my hard drive until I do get a BS. No big deal though. One thing that might happen....is there is a electrostatic charge the TV will shut down and blink a red light. All you have to to is flip the surge protector switch once. This is explained in the manual on CD that comes with your set. Plasma is sensitive to electrostatic. But fear no damage. Enjoy...it's a wonderful television and an amazing picture. Hope your using DirecTV!

I don't have the ability to get DaveTV in my townhome but I currently get digital cable, and I think I can upgrade to a HD package. I'll have to check with the local cable company.

there is a electrostatic charge the TV will shut down and blink a red light. All you have to to is flip the surge protector switch once. This is explained in the manual on CD that comes with your set. Plasma is sensitive to electrostatic.

:eek: Are you serious? Because that would be annoying. Is it just Philips or all plasmas.

I got home from work and thought I would adjust a few settings in the service menu on my 50" Phillips. I get to the WARNING screen, but I can't figure out how to select the Next button to confirm to proceed. I have tried every button on the remote and can't get it to select it so I can click OK to get it to move. Any suggestions?? How do you get past that?

Brian


I've been messing with it for the past hour and can't figure this out. Something so simple makes me feel very retarded.

don't own a philips, but here is the quote from the service menu.

"How to Activate SAM
Via a standard RC transmitter: key in the code “062596”
directly followed by the “INFO” button. After activating SAM
with this method a service warning will appear on the screen,
you can continue by pressing the red button on the RC."

best of luck

Hi everyone. I'm amout to become a first-time plasma TV owner, and I jumped on the 42PF9630A. I bought it from the Philips outlet, which is running a great deal right now, and I'm excited about getting this baby! I have a few questions for the pros, though:

1. Does this set have a screen saver of any kind?

2. Does the set have an on screen volume meter? I've seen conflicting info about this.

3. I know Plasmas use a lot more electrical juice than CRTs, but has anyone noticed any real big spikes in electric bills after getting this TV?

4. The units from the Philips outlet are refurbished, which for the price I'm getting the set for, doesn't bother me at all. But does Philips offer a manufacterer's extended warranty on refurbished items? I know they do for brand new items.

5. For those who have purchased from the Philips outlet before, are the guys who deliver the set actual technicians or are they just a couple of surly truck drivers? I'm asking because I'd really like to go into the service menu to activate stereo Ambilight. I'm not really worried about messing anything up as the process seems very simple, but if a tech can do it in a snap, why not?

6. Has anybody used an XBox 360 on this unit? How does it look? I'm a pretty avid gamer.

Thanks for any information, and I'm glad to be joining the world of plasma TV owners!

Hi everyone. I'm amout to become a first-time plasma TV owner, and I jumped on the 42PF9630A. I bought it from the Philips outlet, which is running a great deal right now, and I'm excited about getting this baby! I have a few questions for the pros, though:

1. Does this set have a screen saver of any kind?

2. Does the set have an on screen volume meter? I've seen conflicting info about this.

3. I know Plasmas use a lot more electrical juice than CRTs, but has anyone noticed any real big spikes in electric bills after getting this TV?

4. The units from the Philips outlet are refurbished, which for the price I'm getting the set for, doesn't bother me at all. But does Philips offer a manufacterer's extended warranty on refurbished items? I know they do for brand new items.

5. For those who have purchased from the Philips outlet before, are the guys who deliver the set actual technicians or are they just a couple of surly truck drivers? I'm asking because I'd really like to go into the service menu to activate stereo Ambilight. I'm not really worried about messing anything up as the process seems very simple, but if a tech can do it in a snap, why not?

6. Has anybody used an XBox 360 on this unit? How does it look? I'm a pretty avid gamer.

Thanks for any information, and I'm glad to be joining the world of plasma TV owners!


1. No screen saver per se. It does have an anti-aging circuit.

2. Yes it does if you load one of the later firmware updates, version BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461 or later. Earlier versions have the volume slider, but also have an annoying channel display that would seem to eventually cause screen burn in. The volume slider on my TV was not actived by default. You can activate it by going into the OSD menu and setting it from MINIMUM to NORMAL. The firmware can be downloaded here: http://www.usasupport.philips.com/productDocuments.html?ProductCode=42PF9630A/37

3. Yes, but here in Alabama it has been really hot this year, upper 90's to 100 deg most days since June. So it is hard to tell if it is the TV or the fact that my air conditioner seems to run all the time. That TV uses a little over 400 Watts or so.

4. Unknown. You should consider getting the extended warranty if you can.

5. I heard that activating anything in that service menu (including the stereo ambilight?) could "void" your warranty. So the technicians may resist doing it.

6. Does the XBox 360 setup have any way to vary or randomize the player menus and screens to help avoid burn-in? Does the XBox 360 display in high definition? If so you will need to connect using component or HDMI cables. You can generally get those cables online (especially HDMI) a whole lot cheaper than buying at a store.

My remote does not have any colored buttons on it. Can someone post a link or a picture of what their remote looks like? I purchased an open box model TV. It is possible that maybe I do not have the correct remote. When they brought the TV out to me, they told me they didn't think they were going to find the remote but lucked out. I assumed it was the right one. I'll see if I can DL the operating manual and see if their is a picture in that. I have not had to tweak the settings on weak channels to use the buttons. The only time I have been at a screen that has them is when you go to autoprogram the cable channels. I hit OK, and it takes off. :rolleyes:

Brian

:eek: Are you serious? Because that would be annoying. Is it just Philips or all plasmas.

Any plasma or LCD HDTV can be affected by electrostatic interference's. Atleast Philips give you a solution to the problem!

Bsouders:
Here is the link to the leaflet on the Philips support site. You can see a picture of the remote and the colored buttons.
http://www.p4c.philips.com/na4/4/42pf9630a_37/42pf9630a_37_pss_aen.pdf

Hi everyone. I'm amout to become a first-time plasma TV owner, and I jumped on the 42PF9630A. I bought it from the Philips outlet, which is running a great deal right now, and I'm excited about getting this baby! I have a few questions for the pros, though:

1. Does this set have a screen saver of any kind?

2. Does the set have an on screen volume meter? I've seen conflicting info about this.

3. I know Plasmas use a lot more electrical juice than CRTs, but has anyone noticed any real big spikes in electric bills after getting this TV?

4. The units from the Philips outlet are refurbished, which for the price I'm getting the set for, doesn't bother me at all. But does Philips offer a manufacterer's extended warranty on refurbished items? I know they do for brand new items.

5. For those who have purchased from the Philips outlet before, are the guys who deliver the set actual technicians or are they just a couple of surly truck drivers? I'm asking because I'd really like to go into the service menu to activate stereo Ambilight. I'm not really worried about messing anything up as the process seems very simple, but if a tech can do it in a snap, why not?

6. Has anybody used an XBox 360 on this unit? How does it look? I'm a pretty avid gamer.

Thanks for any information, and I'm glad to be joining the world of plasma TV owners!


The Xbox 360 looks BEAUTIFUL on this plasma. The only problem is that there is a split second delay between the controller and the action on screen. If you're really into Xbox Live games it might get a little annoying, but really, it's not that bad. But like I said, the graphics look INSANE on this set.

I finally got a chance to compare this set, a Panasonic, the new Pioneer Elite, and the Hitachi some people here have been raving about. The only one that could touch the PQ of this set was the Pioneer, but it the price for it was much higher. So, if I decide to go with a plasma, this is the one I will pick up.

Has anyone bought one of the factory refurb (or factory renewed) TV's from Philip's outlet online store? They're much cheaper than the new ones in-store, but I wanted to know if a) the TV's were reliable, and b) if it the Philips outlet has good service or not. The reason I ask is because the factory refurb items are not returnable, only exchangable or eligible for repair. Any opinions would be helpful, thanks!

Well, it's been a couple of weeks since the latest firmware was posted to the 42PF9630A/37 tech support website by Philips. Has anyone seen a lot of BS trouble in the past, but now fixed by this latest firmware fix?

moderator

price and retail links are not allowed

Well, it's been a couple of weeks since the latest firmware was posted to the 42PF9630A/37 tech support website by Philips. Has anyone seen a lot of BS trouble in the past, but now fixed by this latest firmware fix?

I have been watching this discussion with interest as my TV had a severe case of the BS (Black Screen, green light on, no response from remote or tv buttons - had to unplug TV to reset). Just prior to the latest firmware being unofficially released by sgr215, I received my TV back from the repair shop where they had replaced the Small Signal Board. The repair shop was convinced this was the cause of the BS issue. However, I got the TV back and within an hour I had the BS. I checked the firmware and it was a very old version (BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441). After watching the BS problem occur 3-4 times daily for the next week, I decided to update to the lastest firmware at the time (BX23U-1.3.0.0_01481) This was just prior to the unofficial release of (BX23U-1.4.0.0_03081).

Since this firmware upgrade, I have not experienced the BS problem. As you can imagine, I am reluctant to try the latest version (BX23U-1.4.0.0_03081), as my TV is working like a champ now for 3 weeks. Mystery continues for me as now I am not sure if the SSB replacement fixed my TV or the firmware or a combination of both.

Absolutly....beautiful HDTV! One of the best at a great price. Stay away from the Vizio!
Ditto. I've had the 50" version since January, all I can say is "WOW". Awesome PQ, no troubles (got BS on one partiucular PAL DVD in one exact spot thru Oppo DVD player).

I haven't seen better PQ on any set, and am frequently complimented on it. Icing on the cake - dual HDMI, USB and memory card reader. Outstanding for the $$$.

Any chance the speakers on this TV are detachable? I saw the buy.com price earlier this evening and would have already pulled the trigger if they are. If not, I don't know that I can make it fit my current application without having to do some serious cosmetic work and and changing the location of my current surround sound speakers.

speakers on this set are not detachable

I just got my set from the Philips outlet today and so far, I'm impressed. There are a few small marks on the set, but it works perfectly. Thanks to everyone who gave me advice on the questions I asked about this set. Now I have a couple more:

1. I went into the service menu, solely to check hours logged on the set and to activate stereo ambilight. I don't generally like to fool around with this stuff, but one option caught my eye. It mentioned an internal subwoofer. I don't know if the set is supposed to have one or if this option is referring to something else. Does anyone know for sure?

2. Also in the service menu, I noticed two numbers for operational hours. One number says 225. The other says PDP Operational Hours 114. What exactly does this mean and why do the two numbers differ?

3. I still haven't found out whether Philips will offer an extended warranty on a refurbished unit. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good, reliable, reasonably priced third-party warranty that will cover all components of this set?

4. Finally, and this may sound like a bizarre request, but does anyone know of any diagrams for proper assembly of the TV stand? It looks simple enough, and it seems to be working OK, but I want to make sure I have it hooked up right. Does the set only attach to the stand in one hole on each side?

Thanks again for any information!

I have a question regarding this set as it caught my eye on Techbargains last night. Panasonic says its an HDTV but lists the resolution at 1024x768? From what I understand that isn't considered HD, shouldnt it be 1280x720 AT LEAST? I know the specs list 1366x768 as well but I'm assuming that it will just accept this this resolution and display it in 1024x768, is this correct? I have an dish 921, HD-A1 and Xbox 360 that I plan on using with this badboy, but I'm going to be disappointed if the resolution is limited to 1024xs768. Also, does anyone have any info on this set regarding playing video games? Has anyone noticed any lag like the older Samsung DLP's did with game consoles a few years ago?

I went into the service menu...I still haven't found out whether Philips will offer an extended warranty on a refurbished unit.

I think you may have to look elsewhere now

I think you may have to look elsewhere now

Dont pay attention to this garbage. Philips is one of the most reliable manufacturers in the world. Their plasmas are beautiful...and they go to the extremes to support their products.

I have a question regarding this set as it caught my eye on Techbargains last night. Panasonic says its an HDTV but lists the resolution at 1024x768? From what I understand that isn't considered HD, shouldnt it be 1280x720 AT LEAST? I know the specs list 1366x768 as well but I'm assuming that it will just accept this this resolution and display it in 1024x768, is this correct? I have an dish 921, HD-A1 and Xbox 360 that I plan on using with this badboy, but I'm going to be disappointed if the resolution is limited to 1024xs768. Also, does anyone have any info on this set regarding playing video games? Has anyone noticed any lag like the older Samsung DLP's did with game consoles a few years ago?
i was nervous for this same reason and almost bought a different tv because of this. But after watching some high def football i have absolutely no regrets. I looks unbelievable Comparing hd on this set to those with the 1366 i can tell no difference at all.

Dont pay attention to this garbage. Philips is one of the most reliable manufacturers in the world. Their plasmas are beautiful...and they go to the extremes to support their products.
Not trying to hit any nerves there but thats not really garbage. Yes I guess you could argue that Philips is reliable. And yes the plasmas are beautiful (imo). Do they go to extremes to support their products? Not too sure about that. I mostly read posts that say 'oh, your tv is going black? Ok we'll have it sent to a repair shop' and they will most likely fix the wrong thing.

But speaking on my post however, no, if they find out you have gotten into the service menu, they can void the warranty. It has nothing to do with its beautiful factor. But you knew that. ;)

Not trying to hit any nerves there but thats not really garbage. Yes I guess you could argue that Philips is reliable. And yes the plasmas are beautiful (imo). Do they go to extremes to support their products? Not too sure about that. I mostly read posts that say 'oh, your tv is going black? Ok we'll have it sent to a repair shop' and they will most likely fix the wrong thing.

But speaking on my post however, no, if they find out you have gotten into the service menu, they can void the warranty. It has nothing to do with its beautiful factor. But you knew that. ;)

If something was to happen, I would argue tooth and nail with Philips. If they could prove that the actions I took in the service menu contributed directly to the problem, they'd have a case. Otherwise, they don't. I'm not too worried.

I bought a refurbed ones model 42PF9630A/37B.
TV looks a little bit old,
I tried watching OTA HD channels connecting Zenith antenna PQ is excellent
only problem is watching movies some how the there is 1/2 inch blank space on the right side.
it wont go away no matter what setting i try. tried 480, 720 p, 1080i, also different formats on the tv. BTW i am using oppo ( OPDV-971H) and samsung(DVD-HD841), both upconverting players.
oppo conected using DVI to HDMI cable
Samsung using Component ( does upconvert through component)
is there a way i could move the picture a little bit to the rightby getting in to service mode?


TIA

don't go into the service menu. Use the cursor arrows on the remote to move it.

Thanks mlandau, finally got it to work.

don't go into the service menu. Use the cursor arrows on the remote to move it.


Mlandau, thank you from me too. I just started seeing the same thing today after hooking up certain components. This is a great trick. Other than this tiny problem, this set has been amazing so far.

Mlandau, thank you from me too. I just started seeing the same thing today after hooking up certain components. This is a great trick. Other than this tiny problem, this set has been amazing so far.

Believe me...it's the best plasma value out there now. The set is gorgeous with an amazing picture. Use your HDMI connections and download the newest software for it from the Philips support site. This model was just discontinued and it's replacement is about $700 more. Same set with one advancement only. It has a HD 3 Pixel Plus instead of a 2. But nothing that makes a real difference. I love it!

ps/ Philips support team goes out of their way to help you. Ive used them many times for minor adjustments. Very, very friendly too.

Believe me...it's the best plasma value out there now. The set is gorgeous with an amazing picture. Use your HDMI connections and download the newest software for it from the Philips support site. This model was just discontinued and it's replacement is about $700 more. Same set with one advancement only. It has a HD 3 Pixel Plus instead of a 2. But nothing that makes a real difference. I love it!

ps/ Philips support team goes out of their way to help you. Ive used them many times for minor adjustments. Very, very friendly too.


Thanks for the tips. I've already downloaded the firmware and my cable box (Scientific Atlanta 8300) is already hooked up through HDMI.

Also thanks to Mlandau for the BRILLIANT trick to adjust the picture. Everything is fine on my set now.

This set is terrific. Picture quality is great in both HD and SD, internal sound is certainly adequate, and there are tons of menus to tweak the set. JPG and MP3 files play incredibly well on this set, the pictures are super sharp, and the MP3s sound like they're coming out of a good stereo. (The sound in this mode seems to be much better than the sound modes for television programs.) I like the automatic picture scaling mode too, even though it gets confused sometimes. It's very easy to change to a fixed mode though. BTW, does anyone know what type of programs use a 14:9 aspect ratio? I never saw this before.

And for you gamers out there, oldrtyfrog was right. XBox 360 looks absolutely mindblowing on this set, and that's only throught component hook-ups. Can't wait to see PS3 with HDMI!

The 9631 does appear to be identical to this set, except for the sepakers on the bottom of the set and default activation of the stereo ambilight. (I prefer the speakers on the side.) Is there a true difference between Pixel Plus 1/2/3 or is it just a marketing gimmick?

Right now, I'm loving this set. Thanks again to everyone for all the tips and advice!

BTW, does anyone know what type of programs use a 14:9 aspect ratio? I never saw this before.


I generally use that for movies before Cinemascope or other "wide screen" formats such as PanaVision. 14:3 makes them a little too narrow, so I use 14:9 or the ZOOM. It cuts a little off the top and bottom but not enough to bother me. The actors still look more normal. It's better than having them spread across the screen. Just because we have a 16:9 display doesn't mean we have to watch everything in that mode.

I've done a lot of research and with the price on this just dropping to $1500 including shipping it seems like a no-brainer. Although it's just a TV for the bedroom, the only major downside seems to be the lack of saving separate settings for each input. This seems like a significant drawback though if your cable box produces a very different picture (color balance, brightness) than your DVD player. How are people getting around this? Manually changing settings when going back and forth or just optimizing for DVD and living with whatever the cable channels look like at those settings?

I have a question regarding this set as it caught my eye on Techbargains last night. Panasonic says its an HDTV but lists the resolution at 1024x768? From what I understand that isn't considered HD, shouldnt it be 1280x720 AT LEAST? I know the specs list 1366x768 as well but I'm assuming that it will just accept this this resolution and display it in 1024x768, is this correct? This is a Philips thread...




i was nervous for this same reason and almost bought a different tv because of this. But after watching some high def football i have absolutely no regrets. I looks unbelievable Comparing hd on this set to those with the 1366 i can tell no difference at all.FYI, the 42" is 1024x768 and the 50" is 1366x768.

Dont pay attention to this garbage. Philips is one of the most reliable manufacturers in the world. Their plasmas are beautiful...and they go to the extremes to support their products.
I disagree. The TV IS beautiful, but the customer service I've received has been pathetic. It took the threat of legal action to get my TV replaced under warranty.

I disagree. The TV IS beautiful, but the customer service I've received has been pathetic. It took the threat of legal action to get my TV replaced under warranty.

I'll have to second that. Philips customer service is in need of improvement. It took me several months to get the correct power cord for my 42pf9630 that shipped with the wrong cord.

My television has recently needed service. See my previous posts about my experience. The local authorized techs had even complained about Philips tech support and back order of parts.

Indeed they do. Just last night, I pulled the trigger on this particular Philips (I also bought the more expensive of the two wall-mounts that could be bundled with it) and fired off my order today (unlike most online stores, buy.com actually takes checks).

I took Mom to take a gander at the set at the local BB. I had seen the Philips before, but she hadn't. Mom is now *officially blown away* by the PQ of the Philips (we also stopped at this particular BB to look at a smaller non-HD LCD for the meal nook off the kitchen) and she admits that I do indeed have Adequate Reason To Smirk (the Philips is almost a foot larger than the 32" FD WEGA in the living room, but it's going on my bedroom wall).

Because I am paying by cashier's check, there is no check-clearance lag, and I should have my set in a little over a week (the biggest lag will be the check going West to buy.com). I *will* have pix when it arrives, so stay tuned.

I'll have to second that. Philips customer service is in need of improvement. It took me several months to get the correct power cord for my 42pf9630 that shipped with the wrong cord.

My television has recently needed service. See my previous posts about my experience. The local authorized techs had even complained about Philips tech support and back order of parts.

You guys complaining about Philips service department obviously have never had to deal with other manufacturers! Philips is far better than Panasonic, Samsung or most other main brands! I have experienced these companys and would rather deal with Philips anyday!

You guys complaining about Philips service department obviously have never had to deal with other manufacturers! Philips is far better than Panasonic, Samsung or most other main brands! I have experienced these companys and would rather deal with Philips anyday!

The local authorized service techs experience a long turn around for parts and extended wait times for them to get through to Philips technical support (which span close to the hour at times). The local district Philips service manager even knows that they are lacking in the service area. If you have read my previous posts, that is why they are adding more staff to these departments.

My problem with Philips is that they have a slow turn around time for parts, their customer service reps aren't on the same page and could be considered misleading [ie (1)one rep said they could transfer relay my call back to him when I called back but when I did that rep said they have no way of transfering the call to particular reps, (2) one rep said if the problem is not solved within 20 days then they would authorize a swap out, when I called again they said that there was nothing of such but if a part was back ordered for 20 "business" days that they may "consider" alternatives]. Hopefully the customer service reps get on the same page, including the the new staff.

I have dealt with other manufacturers and they have dealt with problems swifter than the 2 months that it took for my Philips tv to be repaired. The only positive thing that came from my service experience with my Philips tv is that they practicaly built me a new tv (new main X & Y boards that they thought would solve the problem, instead a new plasma display panel installed did).

I got mine today evening ordered from Philips outlet last week and man I am blown and that too using a RCA composite cable !!! My HDMI & component cables I ordered online did not make it today. Just can't wait for them to get here tomorrow.

And Ambilight is just so cool, I totally love it. Even a Xvid movie looked pretty decent. And did I mention I got a like new Refurb set in perfect condition - $1185 incl taxes shipped.

I was so skeptic after reading the comments from some of the users, but I had a feeling I might get lucky !

The s/w on it BX23U-1.0.4.0_00201 - shall I upgrade to the latest BX23U-1.4.0.0_03081 ? Does the backdoor to access SAM available in the new firmware as well ?

I do agree with the pros that the black is not as black as it should be, but who cares I do not plan to watch B/W movies. And the colors are fantastic. Previewed orignal LORT 3, SuperMan 2 DVDs and saw Fanaa in Xvid format. I am so happy with this purchase.

Will keep my fingers crossed and hopefully its a keeper.

-jigs
:)

I got mine today evening ordered from Philips outlet last week and man I am blown and that too using a RCA composite cable !!! My HDMI & component cables I ordered online did not make it today. Just can't wait for them to get here tomorrow.

And Ambilight is just so cool, I totally love it. Even a Xvid movie looked pretty decent. And did I mention I got a like new Refurb set in perfect condition - $1185 incl taxes shipped.

I was so skeptic after reading the comments from some of the users, but I had a feeling I might get lucky !

The s/w on it BX23U-1.0.4.0_00201 - shall I upgrade to the latest BX23U-1.4.0.0_03081 ? Does the backdoor to access SAM available in the new firmware as well ?

I do agree with the pros that the black is not as black as it should be, but who cares I do not plan to watch B/W movies. And the colors are fantastic. Previewed orignal LORT 3, SuperMan 2 DVDs and saw Fanaa in Xvid format. I am so happy with this purchase.

Will keep my fingers crossed and hopefully its a keeper.

-jigs
:)


I would consider upgrading the firmware, especially if you encounter the sudden black screen (BS) problem where the TV turns off and then back on again for no apparent reason or the TV shuts down completely until unplugged and replugged into the wall outlet. Another advantage of the latest firmware is that you can activate the on-screen volume slider without the annoying (and constant) channel display, which I think would be prone to eventual burn-in on the screen. Some of the later firmware versions claim general picture improvement also. The lastest firmware should be a cumulative of the earlier firmware improvements.

Black levels seem to be a matter of opinion, test setup, the test image/signal, and whether a prototype or production TV was used. Remember too, that Philips has made some picture improvements to the TV with at least one firmware release since these reviews were conducted. Testing a very new TV might produce a little bit different results than one that has been used a while. One audio/video test report stated that the 42PF9630A had among the best black levels they had seen in a plasma. They then talked about phosphor lag of this TV, but then I also hear that phosphor lag is common to very new plasmas. You can read it here: http://www.hometheatermag.com/plasmadisplays/106philips/

I would consider upgrading the firmware, especially if you encounter the sudden black screen (BS) problem where the TV turns off and then back on again for no apparent reason or the TV shuts down completely until unplugged and replugged into the wall outlet. Another advantage of the latest firmware is that you can activate the on-screen volume slider without the annoying (and constant) channel display, which I think would be prone to eventual burn-in on the screen. Some of the later firmware versions claim general picture improvement also. The lastest firmware should be a cumulative of the earlier firmware improvements.

Black levels seem to be a matter of opinion, test setup, the test image/signal, and whether a prototype or production TV was used. Remember too, that Philips has made some picture improvements to the TV with at least one firmware release since these reviews were conducted. Testing a very new TV might produce a little bit different results than one that has been used a while. One audio/video test report stated that the 42PF9630A had among the best black levels they had seen in a plasma. They then talked about phosphor lag of this TV, but then I also hear that phosphor lag is common to very new plasmas. You can read it here: http://www.hometheatermag.com/plasmadisplays/106philips/

How do I activate the on-screen volume slider? I did upgrade the latest software, but it didn't give me the slider.

How do I activate the on-screen volume slider? I did upgrade the latest software, but it didn't give me the slider.

Go into the the settings menu. From the main TV settings/setup menu, go to PREFERENCES, then to MENU PREFERENCES, and then to OSD. Then set the OSD value from MINIMUM to NORMAL and exit. The volume slider should now appear when adjusting the volume.

Go into the the settings menu. From the main TV settings/setup menu, go to PREFERENCES, then to MENU PREFERENCES, and then to OSD. Then set the OSD value from MINIMUM to NORMAL and exit. The volume slider should now appear when adjusting the volume.


Thank you Magna2006....worked like a charm! I LOVE THIS TV.

I've posted in the AVS HDTV forum for my local area to try to resolve some issues with getting local stations in HD using the QAM tuner on my Philips plasma. I did the cable channel search and, of course, it found all of the analog cable stations. It also found a number of digital stations, most of which are music channels, but a couple of other stations (but no local stations). I have Insight cable.

I posted this in the local forum and got a response the following response:

"These are QAM-256 stations, the music channels are QAM-64 I think. Check menus (and owner's manual) for any selection options for QAM-64 vs QAM-256.

Some TVs can remap the digital feeds and substitute them for the analog, so that when you select channel 8, for instance, it will put the HD station automatically in it's place. Look for any indications that the set is in HD mode for channels 6, 8, 10, 12 (that would be a mess on 12) [6,8,10, and 12 are the analog cable channels for the local stations].

Does your remote or menu have a sub-channel option or button? If so, then try it when you are on 6, 8, 10, or 12."

My question are -- 1) is there a selections on Philips TV to select QAM-64 or QAM-256 (I've even checked the service menu, and can't find anything)? 2) If not, are there any other suggestions for receiving the local HD signals with this TV? 3) Can the Philips TV remap the digital feed as suggested?

Thanks.

Thought this may aid a few who follow this thread.
Here is my SpyderTV report for my 42PF9630A that I received after a new plasma display panel was installed under warranty. Panel has approximately 15 hrs of use prior to using the SpyderTV. The display panel will be further broken in using the break in SVCD loop for ~200 hrs then will be retested and configured.

Does Phillips have a 42" with ambilight that has the speakers on the bottom rather than on the side? I have a space issue and this model won't work for me.

joperio, I have a similar model (the 7320a). I haven't gotten it back yet (already a month in the shop), but I don't recall having the contrast set that high. Is it safe to have it at that level for long periods of time? I would think that burn-in happens more rapidly when contrast is set higher than the 70s.

Does Phillips have a 42" with ambilight that has the speakers on the bottom rather than on the side? I have a space issue and this model won't work for me.


The current model, the 42PF9631D, has speakers on the bottom. Functionally, the 9630 and 9631 seem to be almost identical, with the major difference being the 9631 has stereo amblight activated by default. Surprisingly, there doesn't seem to be much discussion here on anywhere else on the 9631, which I think has been out for a few months.

joperio, I have a similar model (the 7320a). I haven't gotten it back yet (already a month in the shop), but I don't recall having the contrast set that high. Is it safe to have it at that level for long periods of time? I would think that burn-in happens more rapidly when contrast is set higher than the 70s.

SofChance, the contrast is set much lower than what the SpyderTV recommended. I am still letting my tv sit at ~50 contrast as I further break in the display. I'll repost after I hit ~200 hrs using the break in SVCD. I just thought it would be an interesting test to see the difference in recommended settings before and after ~200 hrs of break in.

Test will be performed in same conditions to minimize the variables.

Is there a separate user thread for the 9631 or is this for that model, too?

Is there a separate user thread for the 9631 or is this for that model, too?


The title for this thread is the 42PF9630A. There is a new thread for the new 42PF9631D/37 HD plasma.

I originally posted this in another thread - moving it here:

This is my first plasma - bought from Philips refurb. All seems well and there was only 21 hours on the service clock when I received it.

However I'm getting concerned because the monitor still seems 'on' even when powered down by pressing the button on right side eg. no leds remain lit on front panel. The screen is black but has that "glow" (like a computer monitor that's turned on but is receiving no signal) and there is audible buzzing from 10 feet away (not a problem when you're listening to programming)

I switched the surge protector off last night to turn it completely off.

This morning I swtiched the surge protector back on, but did not turn the monitor on. The screen is glowing and the buzzing is audible. Also, the top of the case is getting warm - even though I never actually turned the unit on! I don't think this could possibly be normal operation?

Should I call Philips support?

I thought I would start a thread on this new plasma since it seems to have established a new low price for an HD brand name plasma from a major B&M. It is currently listed on CCs website for well under $3k.

Wow...how things change in 14 months. If you CAN find this model, it probably is closer to $1,500 or half the earlier price. :)

Even the successor model, the 9631, can be had for a shade under $2,000 and it has more features. :)

...My HDMI & component cables I ordered online did not make it today. Just can't wait for them to get here tomorrow.-jigs
:)

Where did you get your HDMI cables from online...I want to but about 30 feet

I'm getting problems with my 42PF9630A with somethIng called "FALSE CONTOURING"... also SPEAKERS VIBRATE WITH CERTAIN TONES..and the BLACK SCREEN when playing DVD's ...

I'm having a terrible time with Philps Customer Service

Other than that the TV is great !!! :o

I originally posted this in another thread - moving it here:

This is my first plasma - bought from Philips refurb. All seems well and there was only 21 hours on the service clock when I received it.

However I'm getting concerned because the monitor still seems 'on' even when powered down by pressing the button on right side eg. no leds remain lit on front panel. The screen is black but has that "glow" (like a computer monitor that's turned on but is receiving no signal) and there is audible buzzing from 10 feet away (not a problem when you're listening to programming)

I switched the surge protector off last night to turn it completely off.

This morning I swtiched the surge protector back on, but did not turn the monitor on. The screen is glowing and the buzzing is audible. Also, the top of the case is getting warm - even though I never actually turned the unit on! I don't think this could possibly be normal operation?

Should I call Philips support?

Sounds to me like the TVGuide feature might be turned on. When I turned mine on, it never fully turned off so it could gather the guide info, but it never did that for me. My cable didn't broadcast the info for it to receive. I don't remember how to turn it off, but if you search through this thread, it has been discussed here before...

Where did you get your HDMI cables from online...I want to but about 30 feet

I'm getting problems with my 42PF9630A with somethIng called "FALSE CONTOURING"... also SPEAKERS VIBRATE WITH CERTAIN TONES..and the BLACK SCREEN when playing DVD's ...

I'm having a terrible time with Philps Customer Service

Other than that the TV is great !!! :o

I got my cables at monoprice.com. I didn't get 30 feet, but 10 feet was enough for me. Much better price that the box stores that only sell Monster.

Sounds to me like the TVGuide feature might be turned on. When I turned mine on, it never fully turned off so it could gather the guide info, but it never did that for me. My cable didn't broadcast the info for it to receive. I don't remember how to turn it off, but if you search through this thread, it has been discussed here before...

I went into the service menu and saw that 'Options'->'Data'->'EPG' was set at 'Off'. Is this the correct switch? I coulnd't find any other option that appeared to have anything to do with the TV Guide feature

Thanks for your help,

Chris

I went into the service menu and saw that 'Options'->'Data'->'EPG' was set at 'Off'. Is this the correct switch? I coulnd't find any other option that appeared to have anything to do with the TV Guide feature

Thanks for your help,

Chris

Sorry, not sure. It has been awhile since I have been in the menus, and I am not around my set now. You might have to go into the service menu. There are instructions on that somewhere back in this thread too.

I originally posted this in another thread - moving it here:

This is my first plasma - bought from Philips refurb. All seems well and there was only 21 hours on the service clock when I received it.

However I'm getting concerned because the monitor still seems 'on' even when powered down by pressing the button on right side eg. no leds remain lit on front panel. The screen is black but has that "glow" (like a computer monitor that's turned on but is receiving no signal) and there is audible buzzing from 10 feet away (not a problem when you're listening to programming)

I switched the surge protector off last night to turn it completely off.

This morning I swtiched the surge protector back on, but did not turn the monitor on. The screen is glowing and the buzzing is audible. Also, the top of the case is getting warm - even though I never actually turned the unit on! I don't think this could possibly be normal operation?

Should I call Philips support?


Did you try completely UNPLUGGING the TV power cord for 1 minute and plugging it back in? Have you upgraded the firmware to the latest version (BX23U-1.4.0.0_03081) from Philips? This latest update tries to address the BS (or "black screen") issue. You can find it here: http://www.usasupport.philips.com/productDocuments.html?ProductCode=42PF9630A/37&subCat=PLASMA_LARGE_32_42_SU_US_CONSUMER

From the Philips FAQ webpage: another cause of "no picture" could be that you somehow switched to an unused input channel port on the TV; you might try to push the 'CH+' or 'P' button on the remote control and switch to the port where your input signal should be coming from. The Philips FAQ webpage can be found here: http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/dcbint/faqlist?ctn=42PF9630A/37&dct=FAQ&slg=AEN&scy=US

As for the "buzzing" of the TV, this is normal if your current altitude is about 6500 feet or more above sea level. You don't live in some high altitude place like Denver, CO or El Paso, TX do you?

Where did you get your HDMI cables from online...I want to but about 30 feet

I'm getting problems with my 42PF9630A with somethIng called "FALSE CONTOURING"... also SPEAKERS VIBRATE WITH CERTAIN TONES..and the BLACK SCREEN when playing DVD's ...

I'm having a terrible time with Philps Customer Service

Other than that the TV is great !!! :o


I got my HDMI cables from ebay. False contouring appears to be just as much of a signal-source/digital-compression issue as it is a TV issue. In my experience, using HDMI cables seemed to help minimize the false contour problem as opposed to using S-video or even component cables. As for the "buzzing" speakers, I set the graphic equalizer to "SPEECH" for normal TV viewing; this works well most of the time. If I need lots of base in the sound, I set the TV volume to zero and pump the audio though my stereo system.

Did you try completely UNPLUGGING the TV power cord for 1 minute and plugging it back in? Have you upgraded the firmware to the latest version (BX23U-1.4.0.0_03081) from Philips? This latest update tries to address the BS (or "black screen") issue. You can find it here:

From the Philips FAQ webpage: another cause of "no picture" could be that you somehow switched to an unused input channel port on the TV; you might try to push the 'CH+' or 'P' button on the remote control and switch to the port where your input signal should be coming from. The Philips FAQ webpage can be found here:
As for the "buzzing" of the TV, this is normal if your current altitude is about 6500 feet or more above sea level. You don't live in some high altitude place like Denver, CO or El Paso, TX do you?

Thanks for the reply. I've installed the latest firmware from Philips website and let the TV sit unplugged for 15 minutes - no change The unit simply does not power down with a 'click' when I press the power button on the side of the case. It goes into a standby mode where the screen 'glows' and I can still feel heat generating from the case.

The only input I'm giving it right now is coax from the wall (to cable provider). When it is in this standby mode, pressing any key on the remote turns it on the monitor and picks up a signal from the coax.

I really would like to be able to turn off the TV completely from the remote or even from the side power button. Right now I have to flip the switch on the power strip

I've experienced the buzzing when I originally purchased this tv last year. The buzzing was coming from the bezel and ambilight covers rattling against each other. Service tech came over and tried adjusting the bass to see if that would help. It didn't, so he buffered where the front bezel and rear cover contacted each other with a spongy double sided tape. Where the ambilight covers were rattling against the bezel, he used a hot glue gun to buffer between the two. The glue acts as a cushion that can be pulled off if needed.

Problem resolved. No buzzing/rattling of the bezel/ambilight regardless of how high I set the bass.

Can anyone post a copy of the service manual here? I can't seem to find mine.

As for the "buzzing" of the TV, this is normal if your current altitude is about 6500 feet or more above sea level. You don't live in some high altitude place like Denver, CO or El Paso, TX do you?

Plasmas are known to buzz at altitude, but this one works find in Denver.

WHEW !!! FINISHED !!

Read EVERY SINGLE post going back 66 pages on this thread last 2 days....yeah, I'm seriousley looking at the Philips 9631.

Want to thank all the repeat posters here, especially CASEY JONES for all his posts, responses, and helpful hints.

BTW, I have copied and pasted alot of those hints, problem-solves, etc, and saved them for future reference. If anybody wants them in what looks to be a 2-4 page summary, let me know.

Absolutely Not! There are good ones for a fraction. One online site is Shopjavaco.com. Their best runs about $8.00 for 6'. I'm sure you can find other sites just as inexpensive. They may not have the fancy packaging and hype but I've found them to be more than adequate. That also applies to the HDMI cables I've purchased.

How quickly do they ship ?

And why does their component cables have 5 strands/connections instead of 3 ???

http://www.shopjavaco.com/page/shopjavaco/PROD/Audio_Video/RCA-5AV-PWRG

I was looking at that one, looks to be the premium one of their component (would also probably get their 6' HDMI).

And why does their component cables have 5 strands/connections instead of 3 ???
http://www.shopjavaco.com/page/shopjavaco/PROD/Audio_Video/RCA-5AV-PWRG

Y, Pr, Pb, audio-left, audio-right

Y, Pr, Pb, audio-left, audio-right

Oops...forgot about audio...thanks much ! ;)

Wish there was a sticky note on this forum with a summary of all the recommendations for setting up this unit. Can someone post a summary list of the tips/settings? This is my first plasma.

I had an ISF calibration done on my CRT RPTV last night. The Tech said that running some sort of burn-in disc will significantly shorten the half life of the plasma while having a calibration done will lengthen the life of the TV. It's just going in my bedroom so I don't think plunking down another $300 is worth it. Just need some recommended procedures/settings for this unit I think.

Thanks in advanced for any help.

Mine had a thin green line showing up to the right side of the screen (not on the end)
no matter what the input is, it still there
this line stays even if i use the buttons around the OK

does any one have the same problem, i had this TV for 2 weeks now
I have the latest firmware
do i need to update the firmware again ?

TIA

Wish there was a sticky note on this forum with a summary of all the recommendations for setting up this unit. Can someone post a summary list of the tips/settings? This is my first plasma. I had an ISF calibration done on my CRT RPTV last night. The Tech said that running some sort of burn-in disc will significantly shorten the half life of the plasma while having a calibration done will lengthen the life of the TV. It's just going in my bedroom so I don't think plunking down another $300 is worth it. Just need some recommended procedures/settings for this unit I think. Thanks in advanced for any help.

I've got highlights of tons of useful suggestions from everyone here, mostly CASEY JONES, but I have to edit and organize it some what. It's just copy-and-pastes from the first 64 pages.

Can you give me a day or so to post it here? Or IM or e-mail me and I can send it to you direct or even right now, if you don't mind raw type which isn't organized.

WHOA.......Philips Outlet store says that the sets are "FACTORY RENEWED" or something like that. Bottom line, they're USED...no wonder they're so much less than elsewhere. :eek:

Now I'm having 2nd thoughts..... :confused:

Getting a refurb from Philips is like rolling dice. Most likely you'll get a good one, but every once in a while it'll come up snake-eyes and you have to refuse shipment (broke screen, scratched up, etc.). Make sure you have the delivery guys wait until you unpack it and plug it in, it's supposed to be part of the delivery service.

Getting a refurb from Philips is like rolling dice. Most likely you'll get a good one, but every once in a while it'll come up snake-eyes and you have to refuse shipment (broke screen, scratched up, etc.). Make sure you have the delivery guys wait until you unpack it and plug it in, it's supposed to be part of the delivery service.


Although there's a possibility of getting a bad one, for the money I was saving I was willing to take the chance. The only problems with my set were a couple of very tiny marks on the set and it was missing the plastic rings on the back. I called Philips and they sent the rings right away. People not looking over the set with a fine-toothed comb would think it was brand new.

BigTvluvr, the sets from the outlet are refurbished. Yes, I guess they're technically used, but you can save a lot. There was a deal a couple of weeks ago significantly better than the one offered now. Although this deal is now expired, you can check out the Hot Deals forum on www.fatwallet.com and type in Philips Plasma in the search box for more information. Philips has had a few of these "sales" this year, so they may have more.

Thanks, guys....the price at the Philips Outlet (not sure I can say the price here??) is about 20% cheaper than any price I've seen at a B&M price.

The thing is this: while saving $$$ is important, saving 20% on a $4,000 TV is alot more important than saving that same amount on one that costs half or less-than-half that amount. So, do I really want to give up the ready Ambilight 2 and other features (though the 9631 loses some things, too) just to save about $300 ?? And get a refurbed one, too (you don't know if it was used for 2 minutes or 2 years). :(

The price on the 9631 has come down so much that going for the 9630 refurb isn't a make-or-break deal. :)

Yeah, I love the price. But the way I look at it, if I have the damn thing 10 years, and it's my primary set for the next 2-3, is $300-and-change a deal breaker? Heck, thats 2-3 nights out on the town. :confused:

Mine had a thin green line showing up to the right side of the screen (not on the end)
no matter what the input is, it still there
this line stays even if i use the buttons around the OK

does any one have the same problem, i had this TV for 2 weeks now
I have the latest firmware
do i need to update the firmware again ?

TIA


Have you tried using a different cable with the TV and see if that makes any difference? Otherwise, it sounds like you have an issue for Philips tech support.

Have you tried using a different cable with the TV and see if that makes any difference? Otherwise, it sounds like you have an issue for Philips tech support.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

it does with all other inputs too, component(Samsung Upconverting DVD Player), composite(Replay)

i tried to install firmware again, tv wont recognise any thing. is therea way i can install older version

TIA

Mine had a thin green line showing up to the right side of the screen (not on the end)
no matter what the input is, it still there
this line stays even if i use the buttons around the OK

does any one have the same problem, i had this TV for 2 weeks now
I have the latest firmware
do i need to update the firmware again ?

TIA

To fix the green line on the right side of the picture, "press and hold down the Cursor button on the remote that matches the direction that the picture needs to be adjusted, and release the button when the picture position is correct".

You are seeing the green background because the picture is not centered.

FWIW....the 9630's are now officially out-of-stock at most B&W's....even a few firms which didn't have the 9631's in stock didn't have the 9630.

Official MSRP is now $1,500. If you can find it.

WHEW !!! FINISHED !!

Read EVERY SINGLE post going back 66 pages on this thread last 2 days....yeah, I'm seriousley looking at the Philips 9631.

Want to thank all the repeat posters here, especially CASEY JONES for all his posts, responses, and helpful hints.

BTW, I have copied and pasted alot of those hints, problem-solves, etc, and saved them for future reference. If anybody wants them in what looks to be a 2-4 page summary, let me know.

Speaking of Casey Jones, yes he was an outstanding participant in this forum. We haven't heard from him in a long time. Casey, are you still out there?? We miss hearing from you?

Regarding the Philips Support Website, a PC Dummy could use some assistance:

(1) What is 'firmware' -- is that just software for a TV? Heard of hardware and software, never firmware.

(2) Do I want to read/save/download those README files? What are they for?

(3) Whats the best way to get upgrades from the website onto my TV -- should I buy a UBS thing or what? Don't have any flash memory devices, what's a quality but inexpensive means of getting the stuff from the website onto my TV (I have an older PC, btw). UBS? Flash memory? What ?

Thanks ! :)

Regarding the Philips Support Website, a PC Dummy could use some assistance:

(1) What is 'firmware' -- is that just software for a TV? Heard of hardware and software, never firmware.

(2) Do I want to read/save/download those README files? What are they for?

(3) Whats the best way to get upgrades from the website onto my TV -- should I buy a UBS thing or what? Don't have any flash memory devices, what's a quality but inexpensive means of getting the stuff from the website onto my TV (I have an older PC, btw). UBS? Flash memory? What ?

Thanks ! :)

1. Firmware is pretty much what you described. It is operational software for an electronic product. Firmware is used in a wide variety of electronics products, not just TVs. Basically, the firmware tells the component how to behave.

2. Usually, the README files for firmware include installation instructions for the firmware and a description of changes that the firmware provides. Often, README files will list previous firmware upgrades and the changes implemented by each version. It's always a good idea to check them out to see what you're getting, as there may be times when you don't want to upgrade your firmware, because sometimes newer firmware versions disable desired features for some people.

3. There are a variety of flash memory formats currently available. A USB flash drive is probably the most useful for upgrading the TV software. They are dirt cheap these days, some are even free after rebates. You can download the firmware from the Philips website for your TV, unzip the file, and place it on the flash drive. Plug the drive into the set and the set will detect the firmware automatically. Flash drives have many other great uses as well. For example, I'm an educator. I keep backups of lesson plans and student grades on a flash drive attached to my keychain. I keep some pictures and music files on the drive as well. USB drives are basically the successors to floppy disks, which have very rapidly become obsolete.

Hope this helps!

Thanks, Zheld.....

Do you find any specific screen formats and any of the pre-set color/contrast settings useful for particular viewing?

I know most people said they liked the AUTOMATICE feature -- is that a good, all-purpose feature regardlss of whether you're watchign SD, HDTV, or DVD's ?

What about any presets for things like CINEMA, SPORT, etc -- not sure if they can be altered, but with a few already programmed, did you find any particularly useful for one kind of viewing as opposed to another (movies, sports, news channels, etc) ?

can some one please tell me how to roll back the firmware to older ones, i installed the new ones