Does anyone know how to add a cooling fan to an A/V Cabinet? I've found many fans at places like Fry's or Radioshack, but I am not sure how to wire the unit to an AC plug? I'm not too savy when it comes to electrical. Any advice appreciated!

If you don't know enough electrical to add a fan to a cabinet (really one of the simplest things you can do), then stay the hell away from line voltage (110 VAC) altogether. Use a PC fan that takes 12 VDC. A small wall wart will produce enough juice to turn the fan. You would cut the plug end off the wall wart cord and connect the wires to the two prongs on the fan. Find someone that knows how to solder to do this.

*Any* fan you put in an A/V cabinet has the potential to be distractingly noisy. Line voltage fans especially, but even common PC fans. One way to deal with that is to buy a "quiet" fan. Another is to use a wall wart that puts out less voltage, like 7 VDC.

If my reply doesn't make sense to you, then you really don't want to mess with this at all. Get soneone to do it for you.

(And don't forget that you'll need a hole in the cabinet to let out the hot air, and one to let in the cool.)

DMF: Thanks for the info. Sounds like the wall wart / DC Fan option will meet my needs. I'll be heading off to Radio Shack or Fry's to find some parts.

For a 2U rack panel with 3 80mm DC fans, each with it's own on/off switch, and it also comes with the 12v power supply. For a reasonable $70, or $140 with Vantech thermal fans. Look here http://www.triktags.com/html/vantechffan_vent_panels.html

Here is a pic of it with the Vantec thermal fans.
http://www.triktags.com/assets/images/autogen/a_VANTECH_FS02.jpg

For a 2U rack panel with 3 80mm DC fans, each with it's own on/off switch, and it also comes with the 12v power supply. For a reasonable $60, look here http://www.triktags.com/html/panels.html#2rufan

Here is a pic of it.
Yes I know it has blue LED's in the fans, but they also sell versions with no LED's and red LED's also.



Has anyone ever ordered from triktags? I am considering this fan kit. Thanks.

I have, I got it in about 3 days after I ordered it. Just remember this was designed primarily as a rack mount product. So it may need to be adapted to fit in other types of applications.

I have, I got it in about 3 days after I ordered it. Just remember this was designed primarily as a rack mount product. So it may need to be adapted to fit in other types of applications.


Can you post overall dimensions? I think this will fit in one of the A/V Cabinet bays, but want to make sure before I order. Also, how's the noise from the fans?

I have it mounted in the back of a wood cabinet, so I can't actually measure it anymore. But it's just a standard 2U rack mount panel with 3 80mm fans added to it. Standard rack mount spacing is 19" wide, and the 2U size means it should/will be 3 1/2" tall.
As for the noise, my guess is that at about 5 feet away and out in the open, that it's probably about 25-35db. They claim it's 28.5db, but they don't say at what distance either. And depending upon how and where it's actually mounted in a cabinet or a rack, then it can probably be even a bit less noise than that, because putting it in something like the back of a cabinet it will muffle it some. Also if you turn 1 or 2 of them off, then the noise will go down even more. But it is after all, 3 80mm computer type fans, so it will never be totally silent.

http://www.activethermal.com/default.htm

http://www.activethermal.com/default.htm

Thanks for the link. I'll contact them tomorrow for pricing info.

Thanks for the link. I'll contact them tomorrow for pricing info.

I found pricing listed by a dealer online. See this (http://www.soundscapeav.com/atm/) link. Seems pretty pricey. Are these the kind of prices you got from them?

Seems pretty pricey.

Pretty pricey is putting it mildly.....
Even if you were to replace all 3 fans in the version from Triktags, for about a additional $30. With thermal "silent" type fans, like the Vantec ThermoFlow temp sensing, or some other temp sensing variable speed fans. You would still be under $100 total for almost the same thing that Active Thermal is asking very close to $300 for.

Pretty pricey is putting it mildly.....
Even if you were to replace all 3 fans in the version from Triktags, for about a additional $30. With thermal "silent" type fans, like the Vantec ThermoFlow temp sensing, or some other temp sensing variable speed fans. You would still be under $100 total for almost the same thing that Active Thermal is asking very close to $300 for.


Active Thermal is expensive. The 2 kit is nearly $300.00 with shipping for two fans with variable speed. I went to http://www.siliconacoustics.com/fans.html and ordered two Super Quiet Nexxus fans, a thermal regulator, and a splitter.

1 NoiseMagic NMT-3 15.00, 2 Nexus 120 mm Real Silent Case Fan (black and white)33.90, 1 3-Pin Y Splitter 3.00 Subtotal: 51.90. second day UPS added about $15.00.

Now, I need a 12 volt wall wart from Radio shack that can .60amps or 3.6watts and it's done. For a whole lot less moola. Radio Shack sells a 3v to 12v 1000mA AC/DC converter for 17.99.

For less than $100.00, I'll have something very similar. However, I'll know where to get parts if anything goes wrong.

There might be a little more risk in doing it myself, but since ATM requires that I pull out a hole saw to my entertainment center's cabinet, I'm already taking risks.

http://www.activethermal.com/default.htm


I've seen these advertised in the Smarthome catalog. I need to check into one of these.. Very expensive stuff, then again prices seem to be straight MSRP with them. Good service, though.

Active Thermal is expensive. The 2 kit is nearly $300.00 with shipping for two fans with variable speed. I went to http://www.siliconacoustics.com/fans.html and ordered two Super Quiet Nexxus fans, a thermal regulator, and a splitter.

1 NoiseMagic NMT-3 15.00, 2 Nexus 120 mm Real Silent Case Fan (black and white)33.90, 1 3-Pin Y Splitter 3.00 Subtotal: 51.90. second day UPS added about $15.00.

Now, I need a 12 volt wall wart from Radio shack that can .60amps or 3.6watts and it's done. For a whole lot less moola. Radio Shack sells a 3v to 12v 1000mA AC/DC converter for 17.99.

For less than $100.00, I'll have something very similar. However, I'll know where to get parts if anything goes wrong.

There might be a little more risk in doing it myself, but since ATM requires that I pull out a hole saw to my entertainment center's cabinet, I'm already taking risks.


I'd like to follow your lead on this cooling system. If I have a cabinet with 5 fans how many 3 Pin Y Splitter, and NoiseMagic NMT-3 would I need? I assume these shut the fan down completely when not needed? Also, what is the 12 volt wall wart from Radio shack that can .60amps or 3.6watts for?
Thanks for saving me a whole lot of money!

A friend recently bought a very quiet fan from a site called hometheatercooling . He said they were quite helpful. Wish I had come across it before I scrounged up my solution.

50 dollars for a 120mm computer fan with an ac cord? :confused:

Hmmm...

Two PC power supply fans. Free

One 12v 300mA power supply with the end cut off Free

Tiny bit of solder and shrink tubing Free!

Nice cool components with barely a whisper from the fans Priceless.

Seriously. that's exactly what I did. The fans sit directly on top of my gear. Near the back of each piece. They cannot be seen unless you look really hard.

I tried line voltage fans. The whine was intolerable.

It seems like that Tirktags solution is REALLY well priced, and perfect if you have a rackmounted system.

I would also imagine that line voltage fans could cause some level of interference through the powerstrip, or circuit you plug it into so if it's the same one as your equiptment that could cause some quality issues.

I'm going to do a home-grown system. All from Radio Shack just because it's easy and since it's my frist time it'll be kind of trial and error so I might have to return some stuff. Here's my parts list that I'm thinking about:

120mm Thermaltake fan - qty 2
Thermaltake noise killer kit (I'm sure some rubber washers from HD would also do the trick)
12vdc 1000ma wall wart
Project case (for all wiring and Pot)
potentiometer

I'm hoping I can use a potentiometer as a speed control for the fans. I'm not sure if this will work or not, and also not sure what kind of pot I'll need. With my ability to control the fan speed I should be able to keep them quiet. I'd also like to pick up a cheap thermometer to keep track of the temp in there as various fan speeds.

Jeff

I purchased the YampaNet A/V Cooling system and it has been pretty good. Four fans for $100. Go to www.yampanet.com. Good luck!! :D

It seems like that Tirktags solution is REALLY well priced, and perfect if you have a rackmounted system.


You don't need to have a rackmount system to use it, I just made a 2U sized cutout in the back of my cabinet and screwed it right into the wood.

I picked up the parts. Wasn't sure what to use to control the speed of the fan so I picked up a reostat. It does work to control the speed but it does get a little warm and it doesn't make it super slow. They only had one fan at RS so they are going to send me the other one.

The fan seems kind of loud. I was hoping it would be a little quieter, it's rated at 21 db. I might try a Silenx ixtrima pro fan, they are 2.5x the price but only 11 db.

Jeff

The silenx fans are nice, but not 11 db. They inflate their ratings. Try a decent panaflo or similar for the same results but at a cheaper price.

CJ

The silenx fans are nice, but not 11 db. They inflate their ratings. Try a decent panaflo or similar for the same results but at a cheaper price.

CJ

I actually replaced all the Panaflo's in my PC and A/V cabinet (all 80mm) with Arctic Silencer Fan 8's (AF8). I must say that the AF8 moves more air and is even more silent.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835186006

[QUOTE=Grimdeath]I actually replaced all the Panaflo's in my PC and A/V cabinet (all 80mm) with Arctic Silencer Fan 8's (AF8). I must say that the AF8 moves more air and is even more silent.



The specs call out a fixed 2000 rpm. Could these still be used with a controller that varies the speed like the Yampanet system noted above, or do you actually need a fan that has a stated variable rpm output. I'm kind of ignorant with elctronic components. Thanks

[QUOTE=Grimdeath]I actually replaced all the Panaflo's in my PC and A/V cabinet (all 80mm) with Arctic Silencer Fan 8's (AF8). I must say that the AF8 moves more air and is even more silent.



The specs call out a fixed 2000 rpm. Could these still be used with a controller that varies the speed like the Yampanet system noted above, or do you actually need a fan that has a stated variable rpm output. I'm kind of ignorant with elctronic components. Thanks

Yes they can be used; any DC brushless fan can be used in a variable speed application. The AF8 can only be mounted as an exhaust fan, however.

I actually replaced all the Panaflo's in my PC and A/V cabinet (all 80mm) with Arctic Silencer Fan 8's (AF8). I must say that the AF8 moves more air and is even more silent.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16835186006

Ordered up. Even though it's so much smaller I hope it's quite.

Ordered up. Even though it's so much smaller I hope it's quite.

They do make a 92mm and 120mm version also!

[QUOTE=kpblade]

Yes they can be used; any DC brushless fan can be used in a variable speed application. The AF8 can only be mounted as an exhaust fan, however.

Thanks for the info. My plan is to mount them on the back panels of my Salamander unit. I assume I have to drill the flow-through holes on the back panel, and mount the fans on the outside of them, so as to draw the air out of the cabinet. I'm hoping the perforated steel doors in front would be adequate for the inflow.

[QUOTE=Grimdeath]

Thanks for the info. My plan is to mount them on the back panels of my Salamander unit. I assume I have to drill the flow-through holes on the back panel, and mount the fans on the outside of them, so as to draw the air out of the cabinet. I'm hoping the perforated steel doors in front would be adequate for the inflow.

I went with 80mm fans because it's hard to find a whole saw bigger than 80mm. I mounted the fan inside the cabinet blowing out; nothing is visible on the outside.

[QUOTE=kpblade]

I went with 80mm fans because it's hard to find a whole saw bigger than 80mm. I mounted the fan inside the cabinet blowing out; nothing is visible on the outside.

Perfect, thanks for the info.

Interesting idea! I might have to add a fan to my Synergy rack. My challenge is that my rack has the extended rears, so cutting the hole will be a bit more work...

Thanks to everyone for the links to all the different fans mfrs!

Just finished my project, I should have taken pics but I didn't. Fortunately I had a holesaw that was exactly 80mm. Used the AC8 fans they are super quiet. Hooked up a rheostat into a RS project box to make it nice and neat, and plugged the 1000ma 12v adapter into the back of my receiver for switched power so I don't need to constantly turn them on and off. However I might plug them in to constant power since my PC is always in there and on.

Jeff

Just finished my project, I should have taken pics but I didn't. Fortunately I had a holesaw that was exactly 80mm. Used the AC8 fans they are super quiet. Hooked up a rheostat into a RS project box to make it nice and neat, and plugged the 1000ma 12v adapter into the back of my receiver for switched power so I don't need to constantly turn them on and off. However I might plug them in to constant power since my PC is always in there and on.

Jeff

Jeff,
Glad it works! Sounds exactly what I will do. Can you summarize all the parts needed for this setup, price and where you picked up? Did you get 2 fans or 4? Read earlier they should only be used as exhaust fans near top. How did you configure your set up?

Thanks,
Paul

Jeff,
Glad it works! Sounds exactly what I will do. Can you summarize all the parts needed for this setup, price and where you picked up? Did you get 2 fans or 4? Read earlier they should only be used as exhaust fans near top. How did you configure your set up?

Thanks,
Paul

In my setup I went with one exhaust fan at the top of the component tower. I have a fairly large home at the base for the cabling coming in and the doors are far from air-tight so I figured fresh air will find its way in. Instead of a rheostat I cabled the fan to a variable voltage 1300mA or so AC->DC converter you can buy cheaply at Walmart or RadioShack. These converters are the universal ones that come with all the connectors you can plug into the end. They range from like 3.5v to 12v with a switch so you can set the fan to whatever fixed speed you like. RadioShack sells a mating plug with wires that I used to solder together an intermediate cable that is a 3-pin fan header to female universal power plug. This way I can swap out fans with ease if need be. You can buy a fan splitter cable and tack the universal connector on to that instead to connect two or more fans.
All said, I probably spent under $20 all said and done; fan, converter, plugs, etc. I run mine 24/7 as there is a DVR in the cabinet.

The RS adapter plug in question:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049699&cp=2032056.2032136.2032153&parentPage=family

For the AC->DC adapter, just search RS online for "ac-to-dc adapter" (ex. part 273-1680 is one). Walmart is much cheaper.

I used artic fans from newegg 80mm they were 17.88 shipped. The 12v 1000ma power adapter from RS was also $18. Then the misc other parts were probably $5 box, wire, rheostat. I was thinking about the variable power supply sounds like a good idea and I'm sure walmart was way cheaper for something like that then RS. But there are no walmarts near here. So it was just over $40 still a good deal. Still need a way to monitor the temp and test different fan speeds.

Jeff

But there are no walmarts near here.

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:

Well there is one but it's not on my way home from work, and it's lik 30 minutes into noman's land lol.

I set up an AV systems with plasma and components in separate cabinets. Components were rack mounted in a closed cabinet and the plasma was in a wall recess with a picture frame around it. I bought two System 1's from Active Thermal Management.
http://www.activethermal.com/System_1.htm
One worked so well I used a "Y" to split air flow to cover both systems and never used the second one, and since the unit is in the attic there is no discernable sound. My Adelphia (now Time Warner) "Moxie Box" DVR runs 24/7, and HOT, so my fan needs to run 24/7 otherwise the DVR would roast itself and the other components. This unit is relatively low cost to run continuously especially with a speed control that cut down the speed. I used inexpensive HVAC 3" aluminum stretch tubing and fittings from Home Depot to connect to the cabinets. Using a remote thermometer to monitor the units the inside of the cabinet with the volume cranked up is not that much above room temp except for right behind some of the components but the air gets sucked up and out of the top of the cabinets. The air goes into the plasma through a 1/2" by 48" slot in the bottom of the frame and then up past the plasma and out 2 holes in the ceiling to the attic. If anyone is interested in info (or a deal on my unused 2nd unit) I'd be glad to discuss it.
John

Is there any easy way to connect standard case fans (with a 3 or 4 pin molex connector) to be powered by either USB or a wall outlet?

I'd rather not have to have a case power supply and I do have an available USB port from my dish box that I can use. All I"m needing to power is a single, maybe two 120mm case fans.

Thanks in advance.

At roughly $200, it is not cheap. But it plugs right into a wall outlet, has 3 92mm user selectable variable speed fans. And also has a 12v trigger input to turn it on. And the option of a 10 minute delayed off, to cool down very hot running items even after they have been turned off. And it also has a 10 year warranty on parts with a 5 year warranty on labor. But even with the $200 price, it's really not that bad for what it offers. I have seen similar products that offer a lot less, yet they also cost a lot more. Than this Parasound "Zbreeze" does.

http://www.parasound.com/zcustom/zbreeze.php

http://www.parasound.com/pdfs/ZbreezeBrochure.pdf

The 2 80mm Artic cooling fans are not quiet. Not sure why but i can definately hear them when the room is silent. Not when there is sound though.

Is there any easy way to connect standard case fans (with a 3 or 4 pin molex connector) to be powered by either USB or a wall outlet?

I'd rather not have to have a case power supply and I do have an available USB port from my dish box that I can use. All I"m needing to power is a single, maybe two 120mm case fans.

Thanks in advance.

If you read up two or three posts you have your answer. Get a cheap AC->DC converter.

The 2 80mm Artic cooling fans are not quiet. Not sure why but i can definately hear them when the room is silent. Not when there is sound though.

Turn them down to 10 volts or so; they run much quieter at that speed.

.

The RS adapter plug in question:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049699&cp=2032056.2032136.2032153&parentPage=family

For the AC->DC adapter, just search RS online for "ac-to-dc adapter" (ex. part 273-1680 is one). Walmart is much cheaper.

So the adapter plug from RS has bare wires on one side to connect with the wires we cut the plug off the end of the case fans?

John

So the adapter plug from RS has bare wires on one side to connect with the wires we cut the plug off the end of the case fans?

John

Yes it has bare ends. You *could* cut the plug off the fan and solder it directly to the adapter plug, or you can do what I did and solder the adapter plug to a male connector that mates to the fan plug. This way you can swap out fans if necessary without cutting and resoldering.

Yes it has bare ends. You *could* cut the plug off the fan and solder it directly to the adapter plug, or you can do what I did and solder the adapter plug to a male connector that mates to the fan plug. This way you can swap out fans if necessary without cutting and resoldering.

Grim, thanks :) any chance you can provide a photo of this? And just so I"m understanding you correctly. You used multiple fans to run off the one wall wart unit? I'm thinking about using three fans, one blowing in the cabinet at the bottom, and the other two at the top exhausting the air. Only one concern I have is that all this is in a 'closet'. My contractor suggesting one interesting idea. Using a type of dryer exhaust set up to take the air out of the cabinet and exhaust it right out of the closet itself.. I'm not sure but if my idea does't cool it off enuf i might try his.

Grim, thanks :) any chance you can provide a photo of this? And just so I"m understanding you correctly. You used multiple fans to run off the one wall wart unit? I'm thinking about using three fans, one blowing in the cabinet at the bottom, and the other two at the top exhausting the air. Only one concern I have is that all this is in a 'closet'. My contractor suggesting one interesting idea. Using a type of dryer exhaust set up to take the air out of the cabinet and exhaust it right out of the closet itself.. I'm not sure but if my idea does't cool it off enuf i might try his.

I'm running one at the top of my cabinet as an exhaust. There is no reason you couldn't run more than one if you have a large enough transformer. Each fan is rated for a max current draw at 12V. Make sure that the AC->DC converter can source more than all of them added together with some margin.
I'll try to post a pic tomorrow.

I set up an AV systems with plasma and components in separate cabinets. Components were rack mounted in a closed cabinet and the plasma was in a wall recess with a picture frame around it. I bought two System 1's from Active Thermal Management.
http://www.activethermal.com/System_1.htm
One worked so well I used a "Y" to split air flow to cover both systems and never used the second one, and since the unit is in the attic there is no discernable sound. My Adelphia (now Time Warner) "Moxie Box" DVR runs 24/7, and HOT, so my fan needs to run 24/7 otherwise the DVR would roast itself and the other components. This unit is relatively low cost to run continuously especially with a speed control that cut down the speed. I used inexpensive HVAC 3" aluminum stretch tubing and fittings from Home Depot to connect to the cabinets. Using a remote thermometer to monitor the units the inside of the cabinet with the volume cranked up is not that much above room temp except for right behind some of the components but the air gets sucked up and out of the top of the cabinets. The air goes into the plasma through a 1/2" by 48" slot in the bottom of the frame and then up past the plasma and out 2 holes in the ceiling to the attic. If anyone is interested in info (or a deal on my unused 2nd unit) I'd be glad to discuss it.
John

Pretty cool John. I'm in the process of doing similar, trying to vent the heat out of the room altogether instead of just the rack. I'm connecting my exhaust up to the air intake return on my HVAC system, but I think I might need something to encourage the air in the rack to leave.

I was afraid if I just vented to the attic I would end up with too much negative pressure (after running the fan 24x7) that it wouldn't push air anymore. I know bathroom vents will push all day, but they're loud. Plus in the winter time, I'd rather not throw hot air outside.

For that system 1, can you put the blower in the attic so it sucks the air out of the room through the tube? Or does the blower need to sit in the room and blow the air down the tube?

Not knowing much about electricity and not wanting to fry anything, I thought I'd be clever and got a USB-to-IDE cable which has a power adapter and supplies a molex 4-pin connector (won't let me post URL... I'm generally a lurker). Then I got a regular computer fan which has an adapter to use with that kind of connector.

Well... my luck wasn't so good. The power adapter only seems to supply 3 of the 4 pins, and the adapter for the fan needs the missing pin it seems... it just doesn't work... any ideas for me?

USB ports are 5V...1/2 amp, unmanaged.

If you have a 5V fan, it would work...otherwise, you'll need a 12V (or whatever the fan needs) supply.

USB ports are 5V...1/2 amp, unmanaged.

If you have a 5V fan, it would work...otherwise, you'll need a 12V (or whatever the fan needs) supply.

You could simply pop the 5V supply pin from its spot on the molex and move it to the 12V spot. The fan will run fine at 5V, but will be much slower; it may still be to your liking.

Sorry, must not have explained myself well enough. The URL would have shown it nicely-- the USB-to-IDE adapter had two parts, the data cord, and a power supply that plugs into the mains and supplies a 4-pin molex connector. IOW, the power is not supplied by USB, rather the included power supply.

The pins that are there are 1, 3, and 4. From looking up on the web, the 2 is a ground lead.

A 4 pin molex power connector has 2 grounds, a +5V and a +12V .

Are you saying that your fan has 3 conductors?

Because a picture is worth a thousand words... attached.

Move the black wire from the fan, to the pin next to it on the molex connector. They left out one of the grounds, because it's not really necessary...both middle pins should be ground.
Just move the molex pin.

Jeff, One good way to quiet fans is to "series two DC fans to get half speed and more than half the noise of one! This also allows the distribution of the flow in a cabinet situation.

Carll

Thanks... I was able to slide the molex connector out and swap them with just the help of a tweezers, and it works great. I am also able to add more fans onto the same setup. I'd definately recommend it as an inexpensive and easy way to add fans.

This is the equipment I used:
For power: http://www.directron.com/usb2535.html
I got 2 fans: http://www.directron.com/safb82.html - these came with the 3-pin to 4-pin adapter
I also picked up a few extensions: http://www.directron.com/3pincable.html

Am not affiliated with the company... just the one that had all the parts I needed to minimize shipping costs.

For someone that doesn't know how / want to solder, yet wants to add some cooling to their entertainment center... I think this is an easy way to go.

BlueOtto,

I like your solution. I was wondering how you connected two fans to the one power source. Did you need a splitter (I didn't see it in the list above).

I would like to add 4 fans to the one power source. Would this be possible? OTherwise, I am fine to pick up two of these power supplies (2 fans per source).

Sorry I am a novice but would really like to know how these all hooked up. I'll be getting the usb to ide device soon.

Thanks in advance

The fans that I bought came with a 4-pin to 3-pin adapter, which looks like this one: http://www.cpu.com/product.php?ID=789&src=frgl

On the 4-pin to 3-pin adapter, it still gives you another 4-pin... so I just kind of daisy chain them together. You aren't limited to two.

I only had to make the small molex-pin switch mod to the very first one in the series.

Question regarding fans: Blow or suck air??
I have an HTPC, Power conditioner and Tivo unit in one closed cabinet. I put in two holes in the back, and connected one 92mm fan to suck air out of the back of the cabinet, and another on the other side of the back to blow into the cabinet. Since the HTPC is on all the time, I think I will run these 24/7, but would it be better to:
1. put in the fans in "blow-in" mode
2. Keep the fans as is.
3. Cut out the whole back of the cabinet (18" wide x 12" high hole) and just mount the fans to the shelf in back of the equipment?

Question regarding fans: Blow or suck air??
I have an HTPC, Power conditioner and Tivo unit in one closed cabinet. I put in two holes in the back, and connected one 92mm fan to suck air out of the back of the cabinet, and another on the other side of the back to blow into the cabinet. Since the HTPC is on all the time, I think I will run these 24/7, but would it be better to:
1. put in the fans in "blow-in" mode
2. Keep the fans as is.
3. Cut out the whole back of the cabinet (18" wide x 12" high hole) and just mount the fans to the shelf in back of the equipment?

I, personally, have this set this up thusly. One fan is on the bottom of my cabinet pulling in from the front and out toward the back. Another is near the top mounted on the back wall of the cabinet venting out. The only real problem I get is the dust on the front of all my equipment from the pull in around the cabinet doors. All the equipment stays reasonably cool. The fans are connected to a simple heat-activated circuit with a couple of sensors placed on the hottest spots of the hottest equipment.

dscimager,
What type of heat-activated circuit are u using, and how do you set them up with sensors?

dscimager,
What type of heat-activated circuit are u using, and how do you set them up with sensors?

Check out this thread (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=659354)



My original setup is still going strong and works fine for a DIY...

Parasound makes a half rack sized cooling fan called the Zbreeze for 200.00. It's really only good for placing on top of a hot component to help reduce the heat,not for cooling the whole rack. Set on high speed the CFM is 70. As you stated "I'm not to savy with electricity", so maybe this will help you.

Parasound makes a half rack sized cooling fan called the Zbreeze for 200.00. It's really only good for placing on top of a hot component to help reduce the heat,not for cooling the whole rack. Set on high speed the CFM is 70. As you stated "I'm not to savy with electricity", so maybe this will help you.

A company called Cool Components makes something very similar to the Parasound Zbreeze with their CP-CC-101, but it's priced at about 1/2 the price of the Zbreeze. Plus they also have other coolers, and they also offer thermal control options for them. And most of their cooler products are also available through partsexpress.com for good prices as well.


http://www.cool-components.com/m6_view_item.html

http://www.cool-components.com/34.html?sm=17377

A company called Cool Components makes something very similar to the Parasound Zbreeze with their CP-CC-101, but it's priced at about 1/2 the price of the Zbreeze. Plus they also have other coolers, and they also offer thermal control options for them. And most of their cooler products are also available through partsexpress.com for good prices as well.


http://www.cool-components.com/m6_view_item.html

http://www.cool-components.com/34.html?sm=17377

Looks pretty good, but at quick glance I didn't see any specs. By the way, I would not place any of my components in an enclosed cabinet that would cause poor air circulation. For example,my 5 channel amp is placed on a bottom shelf of a wood cabinet with two wood doors, but when the system is on I open the doors and there is about 10 inches of air space above it.

Looks pretty good, but at quick glance I didn't see any specs.

http://www.cool-components.com/uploaded/files/Dual%20Fan%20Unit%20%28CP-CC-101%29.pdf

And as per partsexpress.com

"The CC101 set-top, dual fan unit aggressively circulates and moves air away from equipment protecting it from heat and thermal shutdown. Designed for amplifiers and receivers it is constructed from heavy gauge steel for a great look, but the steel also acts as a large heat sink increasing the efficiency of the unit. Two high-quality levitation blowers (brushless with a special bearing system) are mounted on floating gaskets to eliminate noise. It operates on DC voltage and by adjusting the voltage the unit can be run silent or more aggressively depending on the application. Available in two models: a "Standard" version for normal heat issues and a "High Velocity" model for extreme heat applications. Use the CA-TR-100 power supply # 305-305.

Specifications: *Enclosure: Heavy gauge steel *Fan: 2 brushless levitation blowers with a special bearing system *Air flow: 8 CFM max *Noise: ~28 dB max *Power connection: 2.1mm jack (center pin positive) *Voltage: 7 to 12 VDC *Current: 80 mA max *Power consumption: 1W max *Dimensions: 6-1/4" W x 1" H x 4" D.

* Dual fans
* Quiet and efficient operation
* Low profile allows placement in tight spaces
* Quick and easy installation
* Necessary for any equipment rack
* Affordable cooling system
* Uses a variable voltage power supply to adjust fan speed"


And some info on their new CP-CC-102

http://www.cool-components.com/uploaded/files/Component%20Unit%20%20%28CP-CC-102%29.pdf

And some application charts with CFM ratings

http://www.cool-components.com/uploaded/files/Application%20Chart%20%26%20Airflow%20Rating%20Scale.pdf

I am still having cooling problems with a A-TechFabrication HTPC in a cabinet (along with DTR and power protection). It already has a 92mm DC PC fan in the back left side blowing air in , and one on the right side sucking out. There is not that much air movement though. I want to add another 92mm DC fan right above or on top of the PC (It has a top that is comprised of ALL ventilating holes). Should I put the fan in an orientation to blow air into the PC or suck warm air out? The PC uses heat tubes instead of fans for the video card and CPU.

Should I put the fan in an orientation to blow air into the PC or suck warm air out? The PC uses heat tubes instead of fans for the video card and CPU.

It depends on what you want to cool, the cabinet or the PC. As you are aware, heat pipes need airflow over them or else they are useless.
Having a fan feed the PC with fresh air will lower the PCs temps (video/CPU) but that air vents into the cabinet.
Having the fan suck out will lower the ambient temp inside the cabinet for the other components.

You really have nothing to lose by experimenting both ways; just record the temps and choose.

I ran across this site, called Cooler Guys. It is really a PC cooling site, but it has a section for home theater cooling...and it has virtually everything that folks mention above in this thread and it looks like they've figured out all the adapters, etc., needed. http://www.coolerguys.com/ho.html#top.

I ran across this site, called Cooler Guys. It is really a PC cooling site, but it has a section for home theater cooling...and it has virtually everything that folks mention above in this thread and it looks like they've figured out all the adapters, etc., needed. http://www.coolerguys.com/ho.html#top.

The sound specs on those AC fans ar appallingly loud AND they are not easily speed adjustable. Stick with a variable output voltage A/C->DC adapter and a silent PC fan. I personally would want well under 22 dB with any size fan I chose.

The sound specs on those AC fans ar appallingly loud AND they are not easily speed adjustable. Stick with a variable output voltage A/C->DC adapter and a silent PC fan. I personally would want well under 22 dB with any size fan I chose.The fan I was looking at on the page is 8.7db...
http://www.coolerguys.com/sff21.html

Question regarding fans: Blow or suck air??
I have an HTPC, Power conditioner and Tivo unit in one closed cabinet. I put in two holes in the back, and connected one 92mm fan to suck air out of the back of the cabinet, and another on the other side of the back to blow into the cabinet. Since the HTPC is on all the time, I think I will run these 24/7, but would it be better to:
1. put in the fans in "blow-in" mode
2. Keep the fans as is.
3. Cut out the whole back of the cabinet (18" wide x 12" high hole) and just mount the fans to the shelf in back of the equipment?I built my own cabinet with tinted glasses and installed fans at the bottom of the side cabinets believing that (1) the coldest air comes from the lowest point, (2) I can more quickly pull in cooler air from the bottom vs installing it as an exhaust since the exhaust method requires time for the air to circulate and (3) many av equipment already have fans serving as an exhaust.

I bought 3" 12VDC fans from Radio Shack and they are loud, I believe 29db. Though I have yet to see dust intake, I might have to by a screen to minimize it. The fan is plugged into the wall and controlled by a light switch. I might have to upgrade to the quieter fans mentioned here.

However, I have an OT question: Where can I buy sturdy screens for the back of the cabinet; similar to the circular mesh screens on the Salamanders? I'd prefer a diamond shape rather than circular, but I'd take anything at this point. I thought about buying window screens, but they are flimsy and look cheap.

Wish I would have found this earlier! I used two 110v radio shack 3" fans in the back of my cabinet with a lamp dimmer to control the speed. At full blast, they are really noticeable, at half speed, not too bad. 12 volt would definitely be the way to go....

However, I have an OT question: Where can I buy sturdy screens for the back of the cabinet; similar to the circular mesh screens on the Salamanders? I'd prefer a diamond shape rather than circular, but I'd take anything at this point. I thought about buying window screens, but they are flimsy and look cheap.
Try McNichols (http://www.mcnichols.com/), they should have something that'll work for you...

Try McNichols (http://www.mcnichols.com/), they should have something that'll work for you...

You can find some similar things in what's commonly called 'expanded metal' in most home building centers like Home Depot, Lowes or Menards. If you look in the areas where they usually also sell small 3'-4' lengths of steel such as flat steel and angle iron and bar stock. Where they also usually have a selection of sheet steel and aluminum, and where many times they also have a small selection of both perforated and expanded versions of sheet metals also. Also take a look in the heating and cooling supply area. Because there are many decorative heating and cooling vents and grids, that would probably work as well. In where you could just cut out the center for the piece you need.

Try McNichols (http://www.mcnichols.com/), they should have something that'll work for you...
You can find some similar things in what's commonly called 'expanded metal' in most home building centers like Home Depot, Lowes or Menards. If you look in the areas where they usually also sell small 3'-4' lengths of steel such as flat steel and angle iron and bar stock. Where they also usually have a selection of sheet steel and aluminum, and where many times they also have a small selection of both perforated and expanded versions of sheet metals also. Also take a look in the heating and cooling supply area. Because there are many decorative heating and cooling vents and grids, that would probably work as well. In where you could just cut out the center for the piece you need.

Perfect - thanks.

Anyone tried the cabinet and home theater coolers from this site?

http://www.buyextras.com/cacoso.html?gclid=CNP9oPzHkI0CFQkaHgodi1Tykg

Just wondering what people thought. I'm looking to add some cooling to my closed A/V cabinet. It includes Comcast cable box, receiver, DVD, 2 ReplayTVs, and a Media MVP. I'm planning on finally upgrading the hard drive in one of the ReplayTVs and I'm concerned about overheating.

I don't want to break the bank in a solution, but I also want to settle on a solution that will work. The Triktags.com solution is intriguing for the price at around $70 bucks.

Of course, noise is the biggest concern, I want something quiet!

Thanks!

I have 2 Thermaltake USB adjustible speed fans that I bought on Amazon.com and they do a good job of cooling my components and PS3.

http://www.thermaltake.com/accessories/mobilefan/mobilefan2plus.htm

Or...http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g36/c15/s566/list/p1/Fans-12_Volt_Fans-250mm_x_30mm_LED_Fans-Page1.html

I know there are plenty DIY projects I could get myself into to play around and get everything working at an affordable rate. However, I'm not very patient nor skilled in these areas (please don't make fun of me!).

That said, I was thinking of the following items. I'm getting a Salamander Synergy series triple stand and it will house an Onkyo receiver, an HD DVD player, a PS3 and a traditional DVD player. The HD cable box, will be in the middle, somewhat "out in the open", so I"m not too concerned with it. The front doors of the cabinet are grated, and the top-center will have open sides for air to escape as well. One of the back panels is the "extended" panel which, if the picture online is accurate, has some venting in it as well.

PS3 cooling:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=8235019&st=nyko&type=product&id=1168044005667

Onkyo receiver cooling:
http://www.cool-components.com/m6_view_item.html?m6:item=CP-CP-101

Fans blowing out (one on each side of the unit - one side will have the Onkyo and HD DVD player, the other side will have the PS3 and the normal DVD player):
http://www.cool-components.com/m6_view_item.html?m6:item=CP-VP-101BLK

2 questions (for now):
1) does this seem to be a good setup to keep the inside of the cabinet cool (or "cool enough")?
2) is it a "problem" to have the air blowing straight out from the back of the entertainment center and essentially blowing against the wall? Is there a better alternative?

THANKS!

I bought a second hand AV server cabinet for $200. About 4 feet tall, black lexan door that uses standard 19" rackmount shelves and accessories. It was fitted with 2 120mm x 38mm 110v fans at the top. I bought a vented shelf to put the amplifier on at the top and replaced the 110v fans with quieter 12v 120mm fans and run them off a small computer PS that is plugged into the amps switched outlet so the fans only run when the amplifier is on. The floor of the cabinet is open and near the AC vent so works pretty good for now.

I mounted a 120mm DC fan in the back of mine and it only turns on when you turn the amp on. 80mm is going to annoyingly loud if you wish to move any air.

I'm thinking about a DIY cooling project for my entertainment center. Looked at all these posts and got some great ideas, but as I am not well versed in electrical endeavors, I need some expertise.

This is what I know (or think I know):


I want to install one inflow and one exhaust fan (so, 2 fans total) in the back of my entertainment center.
I want to use 2 of the "Scythe S-FLEX (SFF21D) (SFF21E) (SFF21F) 120mm Dynamic Fluid Bearing Fan Nearly Inaudible" fans, http://www.coolerguys.com/sff21.html.
I want to use Mechatronics fan mounts (http://www.coolerguys.com/840556081456.html) for each fan.
I **THINK** I need this AC adapter: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556029977.html


So, my questions are:
How do I wire the two fans to the single AC adapter? Is there a splitter or something that connects the two fans together AND to the AC adapter?
IMPORTANT - I want the fans to use a thermostat, one that either turns them on when the temperature reaches 80-85 degrees, or one that gradually increases fan speed as the temperature increases. Is there a simple thermostat I can install? Alternatively, can I use a cheap digital thermostat from Home Depot and wire it into the wire between the AC adapter and the fans?


Appreciate your advice. Please be specific, as again I am not an expert.

Thank you,

Paul M.

I'm thinking about a DIY cooling project for my entertainment center. Looked at all these posts and got some great ideas, but as I am not well versed in electrical endeavors, I need some expertise.

This is what I know (or think I know):


I want to install one inflow and one exhaust fan (so, 2 fans total) in the back of my entertainment center.
I want to use 2 of the "Scythe S-FLEX (SFF21D) (SFF21E) (SFF21F) 120mm Dynamic Fluid Bearing Fan Nearly Inaudible" fans, http://www.coolerguys.com/sff21.html.
I want to use Mechatronics fan mounts (http://www.coolerguys.com/840556081456.html) for each fan.
I **THINK** I need this AC adapter: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556029977.html


So, my questions are:
How do I wire the two fans to the single AC adapter? Is there a splitter or something that connects the two fans together AND to the AC adapter?
IMPORTANT - I want the fans to use a thermostat, one that either turns them on when the temperature reaches 80-85 degrees, or one that gradually increases fan speed as the temperature increases. Is there a simple thermostat I can install? Alternatively, can I use a cheap digital thermostat from Home Depot and wire it into the wire between the AC adapter and the fans?


Appreciate your advice. Please be specific, as again I am not an expert.

Thank you,

Paul M.

The fans attach in parallel; use ANY off the shelf molex splitter ("Y Cable") such as this one:
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556000662.html

Honestly, I don't know why you don't just let the fans run all the time. Especially if they truly are that quiet. At 8dba you shouldn't hear them at all.

I use one exhaust fan undervolted (via variable ac->dc adapter); you would be surprised what just a little bit of airflow will accomplish.

Most components (Ie. DVR, Receiver) have a controllable outlet on the back of them; if you plug the power brick into them you can have the fans turn on and off automatically with them if you really want to.

I used a 120mm computer fan and put a 1/4" rubber foot on each corner of the fan and then set it on top of the amp blowing up and connected it with a wall wart to the switched output on the amp so it comes on with the amp. Never gets hot or even warm really.

i'm looking to setup something in my armoire since the Moto STB i have runs fairly hot. (the boxes internal fan kicks in and is annoyingly loud)

what's the rule of thumb concerning fan size and air movement?

small fan, high speed, = air movement, but loud?

larger fan, lower speed = same air movement as smaller fan, but quieter?

would a 92mm be a compromise between having quiet giants and small noise makers?

the artic cooling fans from newegg look appealing due to price and performance.

additionally, the reason my STB is getting so hot is that i have about 1.5 inches of air space about it and it's on the top rack. i can gain about .25" of air space if i swap it with the dvd player below it. would it be worth it?

i'm looking to setup something in my armoire since the Moto STB i have runs fairly hot. (the boxes internal fan kicks in and is annoyingly loud)

what's the rule of thumb concerning fan size and air movement?

small fan, high speed, = air movement, but loud?

larger fan, lower speed = same air movement as smaller fan, but quieter?

would a 92mm be a compromise between having quiet giants and small noise makers?

the artic cooling fans from newegg look appealing due to price and performance.

additionally, the reason my STB is getting so hot is that i have about 1.5 inches of air space about it and it's on the top rack. i can gain about .25" of air space if i swap it with the dvd player below it. would it be worth it?

Bigger fans move more air at lower RPMs; small fans need to spin faster to generate an equivalent air flow. The faster you spin, the more noise you make.

My cabinet is enclosed; I have a Motorola 6416 DVR on the top shelf; ~6" from top of dvr to the top of the cabinet. It runs 24/7.
Within that 6" space is my sole exhaust fan, an Arctic cooling 80mm fan cranked down to 3.5V. With a room temp of 77F right now, the top 6" of my cabinet containing the DVR is at around 84F. The only air inlet to the cabinet is the cable entry at the base (4" or so diam hole) and through the door jam.

Grim,

In your opinion, would you suggest I figure out some solution to gain more airspace above the unit or would adding the fans be sufficient? there's ~6-8" on all sides except the top. I would exhaust through the top, but it's a solid 2-2.5" thick, while the back is luan and much easier to cut through. i was thinking 2 80mm fans at the top with an adjustable power supply and possible a few vent holes at the bottom, but the cabinet is anything but air tight. here's a pic of the cabinet:

http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3102/6808/101315.jpg

http://www.mustangmods.com/ims/u/3102/6808/181333.jpg

the photo shows a D* STB, but i'm running the same as you, the 6416. the fan inside the 6416 must be variable. when the top shelf is pulled out, it's nice and quiet (plenty of ventilation) when it's pushed in, the fans cycles high and low speeds and is extremely annoying.

Grim,

In your opinion, would you suggest I figure out some solution to gain more airspace above the unit or would adding the fans be sufficient? there's ~6-8" on all sides except the top. I would exhaust through the top, but it's a solid 2-2.5" thick, while the back is luan and much easier to cut through. i was thinking 2 80mm fans at the top with an adjustable power supply and possible a few vent holes at the bottom, but the cabinet is anything but air tight.

Here's a very early picture of my cabinet with a test fan:

http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php?photo=20391

In your pic, I'd say you would be fine with the fans on either side of the DVR, as close to the top as you can get them. If you want more air coming in, you can always cut a hole in back of the CD changer where you can't see it (I assume you already have one filled with cables/power cords).
As you can see, mine is cut in the faux wood backing too.
You'll see early in this thread exactly what I used for a power supply; a $13 variable ac->dc psu from Walmart. Couple a "Y" cable to that to the fans and you're all set.

thanks Grim.

i'm trying to decide on whether or not to use two fans at the top for exhaust or one fan for intake at the bottom and one for exhaust at the top. if i use two fans powered by one adjustable 12v power supply, are there any particular specs i need to look for to power two fans, or would any old adjustable 12v PS do the trick?

i'm really leaning towards two exhaust fans at the top though, b/c of the limited amount of airspace above the DVR. i would imagine two would move twice the air and keep it cool.

also pondering the thermostatically controlled fans for efficiency, but i'm not try to dump a lot of money into the fan setup, like the $100 pre-made units you can buy. after all, they're just fans for God's sake.

lastly, Scythe, or artic cool? dual 80's turned down with the PS, or a single 120?

I decided to get two of the Scythe fans for cooling my entertainment center. They are found at http://www.coolerbguys.com/sff21.html.

I haven't installed them yet, but I did wire them together and test them. They are EXTREMELY quiet. I literally had to put my ear right next to them to hear them. As such, for those looking for an extraordinarily quiet fan at a decent price, check these out.

FYI, they chain together, so no need for connectors. Just get an AC-DC power adapter and you're ready to go.

Paul M.

Wall wart with 4pin molex or AC 120mm fans
http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g46/CabinetAC_Cooling.html?id=NIWuNxub

i think i'm going to go with the 80mm scythe fans, but i'm not sure if i need one or two for exhaust. also, i can't seem to find the adjustable power supplies anywhere online. i can find the non-adj. ones, but i want to be able to tweak the voltage if the fans are too noisy for my taste.

I decided to get two of the Scythe fans for cooling my entertainment center. They are found at http://www.coolerbguys.com/sff21.html.There is an error in your link. It should be: http://www.coolerguys.com/sff21.html

i think i'm going to go with the 80mm scythe fans, but i'm not sure if i need one or two for exhaust. also, i can't seem to find the adjustable power supplies anywhere online. i can find the non-adj. ones, but i want to be able to tweak the voltage if the fans are too noisy for my taste.If you get the fans referenced, they are basically completely silent. You can't hear them from 1 foot away.

i think i'm going to go with the 80mm scythe fans, but i'm not sure if i need one or two for exhaust. also, i can't seem to find the adjustable power supplies anywhere online. i can find the non-adj. ones, but i want to be able to tweak the voltage if the fans are too noisy for my taste.

I am using two Scythe 80mm fans, one for exhaust, one for intake, because my entertainment center is basically otherwise not ventilated. If yours is similar, go with two, if yours is well ventilated (open back, for example), one is probably fine. You can daisy-chain them together easily.

There is an error in your link. It should be: http://www.coolerguys.com/sff21.html

If you get the fans referenced, they are basically completely silent. You can't hear them from 1 foot away.

referenced? oh, and does anyone have a link to an adjustable wall wart?

All,

I like some of the solutions here, but does anyone know if there is a simple USB fan? I mean, most of my units have a USB port (seems like everything comes with one now adays) and it would be simple to plug in a USB fan and when the device powered on, the fan would power on.

- Roger

Hello,

I have one more question. I have a Nice BDI entertainment system and for the most part it is very well ventilated. For my Blue-Ray player I went with a PS3 as I just couldn't resist. Even though my bdi is well ventilated I find that the PS3 fan still comes on.

I was thinking of using some of the Scythe 120mm 8db fans to move more air around the PS3, but I am really unsure of how deep the problem is. I know they make an external PS3 fan unit, but I was really hoping to go with a quieter solution.

Does anyone have experience with the PS3? Will blowing more air around it shut-it up or do I need to create a forced air system to direct the air though the system?

Thanks

-Roger

Hello,

I have one more question. I have a Nice BDI entertainment system and for the most part it is very well ventilated. For my Blue-Ray player I went with a PS3 as I just couldn't resist. Even though my bdi is well ventilated I find that the PS3 fan still comes on.

I was thinking of using some of the Scythe 120mm 8db fans to move more air around the PS3, but I am really unsure of how deep the problem is. I know they make an external PS3 fan unit, but I was really hoping to go with a quieter solution.

Does anyone have experience with the PS3? Will blowing more air around it shut-it up or do I need to create a forced air system to direct the air though the system?

Thanks

-Roger

I've used those same fans in my setup and it works quite well. My cabinet is split down the middle with the cable box on the top shelf and the PS3 on the bottom on one side. I've placed one of those fans near the top on each side(my receiver is on the other half. This seems to draw out all of the hot air and keeps the fan on my PS3 from kicking on. Plus those fans use so little energy you don't have to worry about keeping them running constantly and they are rated for 100,000+ hours or use.

Good Advice,

I was thinking of getting:

Power Unit: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556029977.html
Splitter: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556026983.html
Fans: http://www.coolerguys.com/sff21.html
Stands: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556081456.html

This would be a 24/7 always on device which is fine, however I would like some control and I am considering this unit:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6271/bus-112/Ultra_35_OverPower_Multi-Fan_Controller_13_Volt_Output_-_Black_ULT40061.html?tl=g46

I just see that it takes 5V in, yet everything else is 12V. Not sure how to use it without a PC power supply.

Any ideas?

- Roger

is there such a thing as an adjustable wall wart? i've looked on radio shack and walmart's webite, but couldn't find anything.

Good Advice,

I was thinking of getting:

Power Unit: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556029977.html
Splitter: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556026983.html
Fans: http://www.coolerguys.com/sff21.html
Stands: http://www.coolerguys.com/840556081456.html

This would be a 24/7 always on device which is fine, however I would like some control and I am considering this unit:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6271/bus-112/Ultra_35_OverPower_Multi-Fan_Controller_13_Volt_Output_-_Black_ULT40061.html?tl=g46

I just see that it takes 5V in, yet everything else is 12V. Not sure how to use it without a PC power supply.

Any ideas?

- Roger

You suggested setup will work fine. The power unit you have listed there outputs to a standard PC power interface which is 12v and 5v. Here is an excerpt from the power unit's specs. So all those pieces together will make your power.

Model: CS-120/0502000-E
Input: 100-240VAC 50/60Hz 1.5A
Output: 12V +- 2A
5V+- 2A

is there such a thing as an adjustable wall wart? i've looked on radio shack and walmart's webite, but couldn't find anything.

Yes, I assure you that your local Walmart has them; they are universal AC->DC converters. They have a tiny switch on them that lets you select between multiple voltages.

Yes, I assure you that your local Walmart has them; they are universal AC->DC converters. They have a tiny switch on them that lets you select between multiple voltages.

i assume thy'd be in electronics? i guess i'll have to actually go there (which i loathe)

i assume thy'd be in electronics? i guess i'll have to actually go there (which i loathe)

Yes; in audio/tv right along side all the A/V cables.

is there such a thing as an adjustable wall wart? i've looked on radio shack and walmart's webite, but couldn't find anything.

You may want to try Radio Shack again. Because they do actually have quite a few different ones available. Here are 3 of them.


http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049691&cp=&sr=1&origkw=ac+adapter&kw=ac+adapter&parentPage=search

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2552560&cp=&sr=1&origkw=ac+adapter&kw=ac+adapter&parentPage=search

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049687&cp=&sr=1&origkw=ac+adapter&kw=ac+adapter&parentPage=search

thanks for the links. what amperage do i want?

For that, you need to know what amperage your fans will need/draw.
But, bigger than what you actually need won't hurt anything at all, and in fact it may even help you if you want to run multiple fans.
If it was me, I'd get the 2nd one with the 1000mA rating.

i'm looking at this particular fan:

Scythe 120 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185006)

cfm looks good and has a lot of positive reviews. with the adjustable PS, i should be able to tweak it to where i want it. the confusing thing is the dBA's. how do i know how loud 28dBA's is??:confused:

here is Scythe's page on that product:

Scythe Specs (http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/002/sflex_detail.html)

it says the current draw is .2 Amps. how does that relate to 1000mA?

Just a heads up for anyone looking at the Active Thermal Management System 1
http://www.activethermal.com/System_1.htm

Looks to me as if they are using a basic Fantech fan motor. (Like the one I use in one of my bathrooms :) )Similar parts could be assembled from here, for much less $$$:
http://www.hvacquick.com/subproducts.php?prod=BATHFAN

i'm looking at this particular fan:

Scythe 120 (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185006)

cfm looks good and has a lot of positive reviews. with the adjustable PS, i should be able to tweak it to where i want it. the confusing thing is the dBA's. how do i know how loud 28dBA's is??:confused:

here is Scythe's page on that product:

Scythe Specs (http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/002/sflex_detail.html)

it says the current draw is .2 Amps. how does that relate to 1000mA?

any have any thoughts?

1000mA would be 1 amp, so .2 amps would be 200mA.

As for the dBs, 30 dBs is like a "quiet office, leaves rustling" etc. depending on where you look. I have the 8dB fans(2 of them) that run constantly and I don't hear them at all.

1000mA would be 1 amp, so .2 amps would be 200mA.

As for the dBs, 30 dBs is like a "quiet office, leaves rustling" etc. depending on where you look. I have the 8dB fans(2 of them) that run constantly and I don't hear them at all.

info on said fans? how's the cooling?

info on said fans? how's the cooling?

Fans work great for me. See my post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11690191#post11690191
for more info.

Fans work great for me. See my post http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=11690191#post11690191
for more info.

thanks. if the 8dBA fans work for your situation, i think i'll consider those. any pics of your cabinet? my Moto DVR is on the top shelf with about 1.5" of airspace above it. i have to slide the shelf out for the time being to keep the noisy fan in the box from turning on.

i just got my 12v adj. wall wart from RS and my 120mm scythe fan in today. the scythe fan has blk, yellow and red, yet it's a 12v DC fan. why the 3 wires? i got some clip style connectors to splice the wall wart to the fan. i may cut and solder later, but this will do for now. red is 12v, right?

i just got my 12v adj. wall wart from RS and my 120mm scythe fan in today. the scythe fan has blk, yellow and red, yet it's a 12v DC fan. why the 3 wires? i got some clip style connectors to splice the wall wart to the fan. i may cut and solder later, but this will do for now. red is 12v, right?

The third wire is from the fan reports RPM. Just leave it disconnected. Hot and ground should be Red/Black. RPM is usually yellow.

The third wire is from the fan reports RPM. Just leave it disconnected. Hot and ground should be Red/Black. RPM is usually yellow.


man you're right on top of it. thanks again.

The yellow wire is for the RPM sensor feedback to a PC that can show fan speeds. So you don't need to worry about hooking up anything to the yellow wire, you can even cut it off if you want. Red wire is +, black is -, hook those up accordingly.

got it all hooked up guys. fan is noticeable only if you listen for it. not bad at all. i've got it set to 9v on the wall wart. i may bump it down to 7.5 and see if it still keeps things cool.

Can anyone tell me if I can use the usb connection on the back of my D* h20 to power a 12 volt fan? Right now I have it connected to a wall wart but, I don't like the idea of it being plugged in all the time. I would like for it to come on only when the equipment is on. I don't have any plugs on the back of my equipment or a 12 volt trigger to connected it to. Any ideas?:confused:

Picked up 2 of the "Scythe S-FLEX (SFF21D) 120mm Dynamic Fluid Bearing Fan Nearly Inaudible" fans wondering what folks have done when cutting the hole in the wood cabinet to mount.

Fan's come with 4 metal screws, but I was thinking there has to be a better mounting solution.

If you can detail your measurents and mounting system that would be awesome.

mat

I saw one of these Silverstone Fan controllers (http://www.silverstonetek.com/products/p_contents.php?pno=fp52) at Fry's for about $35. It regulates the voltage of 3 DC fans based on temperatures at 3 sensors.

I am about ready to get a fairly low profile Salamander Chameleon triple cabinet that has three 20"x18"x20" compartments that I would like to cool. I'm thinking that this controller together with a Scythe fan for each section might be perfect. I already have one of the AC to DC Molex power adapters that I am not using. The plan would be to locate a thermal sensor at the top of each one of the compartments.

Has anybody tried one of these PC fan controllers?

For what is is worth I will have the following components:

Compartment 1: Toshiba HD-XA2, AppleTV and OPP 980 DVD player
Compartment 2: Onkyo 674 AV receiver
Compartment 3 PS3 and VCR

Edit: Another option is this Zalman fan controller (http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/view.asp?idx=274&code=017) that does not control on tempurature, but has a nice display and can alarm on fan failure.

Picked up 2 of the "Scythe S-FLEX (SFF21D) 120mm Dynamic Fluid Bearing Fan Nearly Inaudible" fans wondering what folks have done when cutting the hole in the wood cabinet to mount.

Fan's come with 4 metal screws, but I was thinking there has to be a better mounting solution.

If you can detail your measurents and mounting system that would be awesome.

mat

the back of my cabinet was luan, so a dremel did the trick. i just held the fan where i wanted it, then traced the inside, circular opening with a marker and cut it out. you could use a jig saw, dremel hand saw or anything that will cut the hole. i used four small nuts and bolts to secure it and make sure it won't come loose.

The Zalman ZM-MFC2 is looking better and better as an alternative for fan control. I did have another question related to dust build-up if the fans are on continuously.

Has anybody used a standard air filter -- like those for home heating ducts in a cabinet application? I am thinking that I could put the filter at the bottom of each compartment and sandwiched between the bottom shelf and a thin piece of thin fiber board with ventilation cut-outs.

Has anybody used a standard air filter -- like those for home heating ducts in a cabinet application? I am thinking that I could put the filter at the bottom of each compartment and sandwiched between the bottom shelf and a thin piece of thin fiber board with ventilation cut-outs.

I use a either a fine Scotch Brite cleaning pad or a 3M "Final Stripping Pad" for a filter material. Either one can be washed clean in soap & water when dirty, and reused again and again. I prefer to use the 3M stripping pads, mostly because they are thinner.

http://hand-tools.gillroys.com/Sanding_paper_belts_disks_&_cloth/Steel_wool/2PK_FINAL_STRIPPING_PADS-s771503.html

dammit. i noticed on monday a minor ticking noise coming from the fan. the scythe wasn't whisper silent to begin with, but i could definately live with the faint whirr coming from the air movement. the ticking is def. annoying.

can anyone suggest any other brands of fans that are quiet? the ticking sound is pretty aggravating. there are a couple different bearing types i see on new egg. is one better than another?

can anyone suggest any other brands of fans that are quiet? the ticking sound is pretty aggravating. there are a couple different bearing types i see on new egg. is one better than another?

I have these same fans (the 8db version) and they are silent. I would return them if I was you and either ask for new ones or get your money back.

I have these same fans (the 8db version) and they are silent. I would return them if I was you and either ask for new ones or get your money back.

i think i might be screwed. newegg's policy is to only accept with original packaging. i threw mine away. :(

did you use any rubber isolators or anything to mount the fan? could that be waht i'm hearing? i need to remove it from the back of the cabinet to make sure.

did you use any rubber isolators or anything to mount the fan? could that be waht i'm hearing? i need to remove it from the back of the cabinet to make sure.

I screwed mine right into the backing board of my cabinet.

I have the faster 1600rpm/28 dB version of these fans. One interesting thing I noticed is that they can be very quite when run at a lower voltage. However, I tried two different controllers and one resulted in a buzzing sound coming from the fan the other just a vert quiet whirling sound. You might want to make sure that the a fan controller is not the issue.

I ended up picking up a SilverStone Eudemon SST-FP52 at Fry's and that unit produced the buzzing sound, so it is not a very good controller for AV applications.

I have the faster 1600rpm/28 dB version of these fans. One interesting thing I noticed is that they can be very quite when run at a lower voltage. However, I tried two different controllers and one resulted in a buzzing sound coming from the fan the other just a vert quiet whirling sound. You might want to make sure that the a fan controller is not the issue.

I ended up picking up a SilverStone Eudemon SST-FP52 at Fry's and that unit produced the buzzing sound, so it is not a very good controller for AV applications.

possibly. the ticking noise is variable depending on fan speed. i'm using the same fan that you are. for the first few days, just a faint whirling sound, now the ticking. i'm using an adj. PS (wall wart) to control speed and voltage, using the 9v setting. if i raise or lower the voltage, the ticking gets louder or quieter respectively. i'm going to loosen the bolts that hold it to the cabinet to see if anything is obstructing it.

I have been reading this thread and decided to try a cooling fan for the back of my AV cabinet. I found a 12 volt fan at Radio Shack and a multi voltage power adapter. What an improvement, the internal temp of my Motorola DVR dropped from 120 F. to 102 F. This should help a lot. Thanks to the guys here for their ideas.

I have been reading this thread and decided to try a cooling fan for the back of my AV cabinet. I found a 12 volt fan at Radio Shack and a multi voltage power adapter. What an improvement, the internal temp of my Motorola DVR dropped from 120 F. to 102 F. This should help a lot. Thanks to the guys here for their ideas.I'd return it if I was you. That's what I have and it's LOUD (80mm fan @ 32db)! It moves OK air (27CFM). I'd recommend any fan under 24dB. You can get a cheap Mad Dog 120mm & 80mm fan for half the price and 24dB & 23dB and it moves about the same amount of air.

http://www.mdmm.com/spec.php?productid=88
http://www.mdmm.com/spec.php?productid=86

Also, I've tried both exhaust and intake fan configurations, with the Radio Shack 80mm fan. I don't use the exhaust method because higher air pressure (intake method) from inside pushes the hot air out anyway. The exhaust configuration is useless. It lowered the internal temp of my computer less than 1 degree. By blowing in cooler air, it lowered the internal temp by ~6 degrees. A quieter fan will not be as effective but I can't use the Radio Shack fan during a movie or listening to music anyway because it's too loud.

Thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.

Some of you have mentioned that you were going to use the Mechatronics Fan Mounts here (http://www.coolerguys.com/840556081456.html). I can't see how those would work in a wooden A/V cabinet. In fact I don't see how they work in a PC case either. Can someone explain.

If those mounts won't work in ¾ in. plywood, what other mounts could I use for 120mm fan that would help reduce vibration noise? I thought of using a rubber gasket between fan frame and the cabinet but can't find anything pre-made like that.

What size hole do you cut in cabinet for 120mm fan? The biggest hole saw I have is 4¼ in., which seems about right.

Has anyone used the 3-Speed Fan Cable here (http://www.coolerguys.com/840556081609.html)? And how does it reduce the voltage, by resistors?

Can anyone tell me if I can use the usb connection on the back of my D* h20 to power a 12 volt fan? Right now I have it connected to a wall wart but, I don't like the idea of it being plugged in all the time. I would like for it to come on only when the equipment is on. I don't have any plugs on the back of my equipment or a 12 volt trigger to connected it to. Any ideas?:confused:

I'm curious too if anyone knows. I know they make notebook chill pads that the power comes from the notebook's USB. My only question whether the D*HR20 still passes power out of the USB even when it's in standby mode and thus your fan will still be on all the time. Anybody have a notebook chill pad to test?

I'm curious too if anyone knows. I know they make notebook chill pads that the power comes from the notebook's USB. My only question whether the D*HR20 still passes power out of the USB even when it's in standby mode and thus your fan will still be on all the time. Anybody have a notebook chill pad to test?
I tested on both HR20-100 and HR20-700 and USB fan stays on all the time. That's what you want with a DVR since standby only shuts off the A/V outputs and front panel lights and results in only about a 1 watt power savings while generating virtually the same amount of heat.

OK Guys,

First post so be gentle. I have just read this whole very interesting thread as I find myself in the same position in regards to wanting to add some sort of cooling to my AV enclosure.

Now straight up guys I'm very confused by what I actually need. Out of all of this discussion the one thing I don't want is it to be running the fans 24/7, to me I would just prefer not to have something running all the time unless absolutely necessary. Probably something that either comes on as the temp rises or when I actually turn the amp on. The amp will only be running when playing the dvd player for movies or music.

The other important bit of information is that I'm in Australia and whatever piece of electronic stuff that I buy needs to suit our voltage of 240V.

Now onto the cooling part of it. I had toyed with the idea of just taking the back off from the unit all together, but I'm guessing really that is not a good idea because of dust etc, what do you think?

I have only had this unit delivered to me yesterday and I have it set up in the workshop waiting to do the cut outs on the back.

The two different brands of fan that I have been looking at are Scythe S-FLEX 120mm Fan SFF21E and the Noctua NF-S12-/1200 and both seem to be highly recommended, what do you reckon?

As you will see from the added photos I think the amp (Onkyo 875) will be on it's own in one side of the unit and the rest of the gear will be on the other side. The other equipment being a Panasonic DVD recorder, Foxtel Satellite box, and a regular Pioneer DVD player. And in the narrow opening in the middle I will have an Xbox360 or PS3 if I can ever make up my mind.

In the last picture with the amp in it I had intended to have the amp sitting on the bottom of the unit but the knuckle on the hinge interferes with the width of it so I have had to have this silly bottom shelf about 75mm from the bottom, not the best looking, but better to find out now rather than later. The two empty holes will be for the centre channel and the sub woofer.

So without further waffling from me what should I be looking at? Do I need to cut some vents in the front along the toespace to allow cool air to be drawn in, or could I drill some holes in the bottom at the back corner to try and create some sort of chimney effect. Or do I forget all that because I will still have to cut some fairly big cutouts for cabling and hooking up of all the gear?

Cheers
John

Wow, thank you! I just bought a large entertainment center with beautiful glass doors and cherry wood all around that makes for a pretty visual but a horrible heat dissipater. I plan to put an A/V receiver, DVD player, and a Motorola DVR in my left equipment tower right now, and eventually plan to install an HTPC and perhaps some other equipment (although all of that will be placed on the right tower).

So needless to say I've been searching for ways to get the heat out. Right now I am planning to do the following, based primarily on Grim's postings:

(1) Purchase a single Scythe S-FLEX SFF21D and a 110VAC-to-12VDC converter
(2) Install the fan at the top of the left tower
(3) Pray that I can't hear it and that it gets the heat out.

Having said that, a couple of questions:

First, I am not planning to have any specific "intake" fan or port. I figure it's not air-tight and so air will come in naturally, but the installed fan will pull the heat out. Does that make sense, or do I need to worry about an intake? I'm hoping that if I find out the air flow isn't good enough that I can address it at that time, but....

Second, the back of my center is 1/8" backing material -- not exactly a solid footing for a fan. I was thinking I may need to build a makeshift rig to hold it in place, but I figured I'd ask the more experienced folks -- how do I mount this thing? If necessary, I could mount it to the tower on the right side rather than on the back side -- then I'd be going through nice solid wood into an open area of the center. However, that's a last choice for me as it would be visible and I hate to operate on the center's good looks.

Your help greatly appreciated.

Dan

Wow, thank you! I just bought a large entertainment center with beautiful glass doors and cherry wood all around that makes for a pretty visual but a horrible heat dissipater. I plan to put an A/V receiver, DVD player, and a Motorola DVR in my left equipment tower right now, and eventually plan to install an HTPC and perhaps some other equipment (although all of that will be placed on the right tower).

So needless to say I've been searching for ways to get the heat out. Right now I am planning to do the following, based primarily on Grim's postings:

(1) Purchase a single Scythe S-FLEX SFF21D and a 110VAC-to-12VDC converter
(2) Install the fan at the top of the left tower
(3) Pray that I can't hear it and that it gets the heat out.

Having said that, a couple of questions:

First, I am not planning to have any specific "intake" fan or port. I figure it's not air-tight and so air will come in naturally, but the installed fan will pull the heat out. Does that make sense, or do I need to worry about an intake? I'm hoping that if I find out the air flow isn't good enough that I can address it at that time, but....

Second, the back of my center is 1/8" backing material -- not exactly a solid footing for a fan. I was thinking I may need to build a makeshift rig to hold it in place, but I figured I'd ask the more experienced folks -- how do I mount this thing? If necessary, I could mount it to the tower on the right side rather than on the back side -- then I'd be going through nice solid wood into an open area of the center. However, that's a last choice for me as it would be visible and I hate to operate on the center's good looks.

Your help greatly appreciated.

Dan

Dan,

Your setup is like mine. I have a single intake at the top (I too thought there would be plenty of ways for air to get in: around the doors, cable hole at the bottom, etc).
I mounted my fan into the 1/8" plywood/veneer backing. I had my wife hold a block of wood larger than the hole I was cutting with the hole saw on the other side of the plywood while I cut so it didn't sheer/rip as I went through.
I drilled four holes where the fan mounts sat. I think I picked up longer screws and used those round metal things (not washers; these aren't flat) from the hardware store used to dress up screws (they also prevent the screw from damaging the wood in any way); I wish I knew what they were called...
I have a single 80mm fan throttled down to like 4 volts and its worked great for 2 years.

I think you call them cup washers. :)

Cheers
John

Wow, thank you!First, I am not planning to have any specific "intake" fan or port. I figure it's not air-tight and so air will come in naturally, but the installed fan will pull the heat out.Conversely, you can also say, "...it's not air-tight and so air will go out naturally, but the installed intake fan will pull cooler air in."

In an open environment (like mine), I've objectively proven in my scenario that the intake route is >90% more efficient. This is because I can immediately force induce cooler air directly at the components - providing immediate cooling. The exhaust method will suck out both old warm air and new cooler air that just came in. You cannot direct which air to suck out and loose 90% of the efficiency.

An analogy is a turbo or supercharged engine. The charger force induces more air into the engine than would a naturally aspirated engine, thereby creating more power.

In a closed environment, I'm not too peculiar about intake or exhaust because air in = air out. But if I compare it to a forced induced engine, I still think the intake route is more effective. Also, with an exhaust method, the distance between the hot circuit board and the exhaust creates inefficiencies because if the exhaust was at the top, hot air will have cooled a bit by the time it reaches the top. You are therefore not sucking out the hottest air.

I believe that if you could place the exhaust next to the circuit board, then the air in = air out and the intake/exhaust method yields the same results.

But the reality is that it is easier direct cooler air directly at the components than it is to place an exhaust where it needs to be in order to be effective.

I'd love to upload a video to show the difference between intake and exhaust on my thermometer, but it takes minutes for the temp to move.

Guys like most here the heat is bothersome,so much to the point it killed the ole xbox360.The center is a beautiful piece that I would like to do minimal cutting to. also I was considering using the usb ports on the console and HD DVD player to power some fans to ease the install.Is this even a good Idea?do they make a strong enough fan in usb format to move the air?Thanx for advice guys...my 2nd nub post tee hee.

Conversely, you can also say, "...it's not air-tight and so air will go out naturally, but the installed intake fan will pull cooler air in."

In an open environment (like mine), I've objectively proven in my scenario that the intake route is >90% more efficient. This is because I can immediately force induce cooler air directly at the components - providing immediate cooling. The exhaust method will suck out both old warm air and new cooler air that just came in. You cannot direct which air to suck out and loose 90% of the efficiency.

An analogy is a turbo or supercharged engine. The charger force induces more air into the engine than would a naturally aspirated engine, thereby creating more power.

In a closed environment, I'm not too peculiar about intake or exhaust because air in = air out. But if I compare it to a forced induced engine, I still think the intake route is more effective. Also, with an exhaust method, the distance between the hot circuit board and the exhaust creates inefficiencies because if the exhaust was at the top, hot air will have cooled a bit by the time it reaches the top. You are therefore not sucking out the hottest air.

I believe that if you could place the exhaust next to the circuit board, then the air in = air out and the intake/exhaust method yields the same results.

But the reality is that it is easier direct cooler air directly at the components than it is to place an exhaust where it needs to be in order to be effective.

I'd love to upload a video to show the difference between intake and exhaust on my thermometer, but it takes minutes for the temp to move.


I don't agree with the SC/TC analogy. If you want to compare with a car, you should look at the radiator which pulls air through the radiator as the air does not get broken up/turbulant. An engine is a closed environment which has an intake tract directing the air where it needs to go (not to mention a SC/TC heats up the air).

Depending on how you setup your coolng chambers within a cabinet, I would much rather use an exhaust fan than an intake fan. You definitely do not want a straight path as that would cause the intake and exhaust to go from point-to-point.

I don't agree with the SC/TC analogy. If you want to compare with a car, you should look at the radiator which pulls air through the radiator as the air does not get broken up/turbulant. An engine is a closed environment which has an intake tract directing the air where it needs to go (not to mention a SC/TC heats up the air).

Depending on how you setup your coolng chambers within a cabinet, I would much rather use an exhaust fan than an intake fan. You definitely do not want a straight path as that would cause the intake and exhaust to go from point-to-point.Not sure where you're in disagreement with me. With an intake route, you can direct the air where it needs to go. In an open environment, this concept applies. I first tried the exhaust route and all it did was suck out new air that just came in. You cannot tell the fan to suck out only the old hot air and ignore the new cooler air that just came in.

I'll try to post a video of the difference within the next few hours.

I'm not sure that it makes a big difference as long as the system is closed with a single entrance and exit. Theoretically, pushing air into the cabinet allows you to push more air when the fan has the umph to create higher pressure. However, a fan that powerful is likely to be a noise problem.

Many components have a front to rear airflow. In practice, it often works out better to pull air from the top rear, front to rear. It is convenient to put the fan behind the top most component. Many people do not want to put a fan in front of the bottom most component. Also, whether you are pushing or pulling a lot of air you will probably want an air filter. Of course, the air filter needs to be at the entrance. It is often convenient to have the air filter at the bottom of the cabinet -- usually built into the floor/bottom shelf.

I just don't agree with the engine NA/SC/TC analogy... I'm a car guy first, as well as a boosted car guy ;)
http://www.hosting.superhighoutput.com/yamahasho/Ford%20Fest%202007/IMG_6788.jpg



I know in my setup, I can run it with just an exhaust fan. In each opening, there is a shelf in the middle. It seals against the back. As long as a hole/vent is under the shelf and the exhaust fan is above, then it should not suck out nothing but fresh air. In fact, this helps cool components on both shelves.

I made a couple videos showing the difference between the intake and exhaust in an open enclosure. I built the cabinet allowing for a fan at the bottom and I have a screen in the back to allow for ventilation while still blocking out dust. I had to shrink the clips (bad quality) hoping I could upload it, but it's still too large to upload. If someone can host it for me that would be great, or PM your email and I can send the clips. However, I was able to attach a picture of a section of the cabinet. The video will only focus on the temp sensor because you can't read the numbers if I zoom out.

I did 4 tests, the first two where the room temp was controlled at about 70F. There wasn't much of a temp difference between the inner cabinet and the room, so the intake method resulted in a temp drop of 2 degrees while the exhaust method did not drop the temp. I then opened the windows and allowed the temp inside and out of the cabinet to stabilize at the same levels between each test. The intake method resulted in an 8.3F drop while the exhaust was less than half at 3.7F. Results would probably vary if the fan was at the top or back.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=136766&d=1237097795

Yes, Ative Thermal Management or Middle Atlantic are excellent options for cabinet cooling. Just make sure that a discrete forced path for the air to flow "through" the components is in place. It can get tricky. If possible, hold or suspend within view, a piece of dangling thread at various points along the path to verify it is flowing correctly.

hey guys, i know this is a lot to ask for but if you guys could just help me out, it would be much appreciated. i just bought an onkyo 875 receiver and from what i've been reading, its a beast when it comes to heat output. So right now, my equipment consists of onkyo 875 receiver, toshiba hd a3 hd dvd player, SA 4250 cable box, xbox 360, and a ps3. I need to buy a new stand or rack or whatever since the onkyo weighs around 55 pounds. At the same time, i need to cool my receiver down. I'm figuring the xbox and ps3 should be ok since i plan on putting them both on top shelf vertically. I plan on having the receiver on the bottom. Does anyone have any suggestions on which stand/rack to get? I need a minimum of 8" clearance for the receiver. If you guys could just help me on selecting a stand and a suitable cooling setup (can build it myself if needed, just need the overall idea). And hopefully, it should cost less than $300. Thanks a lot for the help guys.

Hi guys, newer AV geek here, but very techinically inclinded and a DIY'er.

I wanted to add at least one fan to my system to keep my Onkyo 605 cool. It's housed in a retail purchased cabinet with the bottom and top shelf (adjustable) and glass front doors, the rear is solid execpt for a 1.5X4 cable hole at each shelf and a 1x8 hole at the very top. Currently have the Onkyo 605 on the top shelf in the lowest position and it has 5+ inches clearances to top of the cabinet. The 605 does not have a switched outlet and I really want the fan to come on with the AV rec.

Here's what a coworker and I came up with that would be temp controlled.

Industrial supply site- $36-remote thermostat, 25a, 90-105*F +/-5* points
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=CCD100&Nav=temp11
and
any AC powered fan. I have found those from $20-$60.

After reading here I do not think I want this setup as the possible noise could be a problem and no way to adjust fan speed.

Now I want to do this with a DC powered fan. Do you think I could just use the adjustable AC-DC adapter everyone metions at RS and connect that to the thermostat at Omega above to a DC fan like the 80 or 120mm Synth 8db model? Costs on this is around $76+ S&H. Is there another way, cheaper?

tomkat5714,
What I installed and recommend for the least costly, easiest, most reliable and quietest solution is to get one or more of these 800 rpm fans:
http://www.coolerguys.com/sff21.html
and a power supply:
http://www.coolerguys.com/840556029977.html

I installed just one fan at the top back of my cabinet exhausting air by using a 4¼" hole saw. I just leave the fan on all the time since it consumes very little power and it is totally silent. Be sure you get the 800 rpm model. Don't worry about a thermostat or noise. and it should be good for the rated lifetime of more than 17 years.

PS Get $5 off through Dec 31 with this checkout coupon fiveoff

One more recommendation - get one or two of these fan grills to protect fingers:
http://store.yahoo.com/yhst-24067115789173/840556041153.html
I put one on the outside and one on the inside, but I would at minimum put one on the outside.

I just purchased and installed the Cool Components cabinet vent fans (PK-CV1-BLK) and temp controllers (TC-AC). Cost me $280. My cabinet is split into two sections so I put a fan and a temp controller in each section. The fan is exhausting from the top. The temp controller is mounted along the top in the opposite corner. There is space around the doors to pull air in, but I also made a square cut out in a bottom corner and made a filter for it. I used a switch plate (the kind used for large, flat switches) and a piece of furnace/AC register filter material. Looks good and works great. Very quiet. My only complaint is that the fans don't turn off even when the cabinets are at room temperature if the fans are operated at 12V. With the voltage set to 9V the temp controller works fine, but the fan's top rpm is reduced. I attached a couple of pics.

Today on my way home I got to tinking about the junk in my closet. So tonite after the miss's and little one went to bed, I went digging. I found an light up (red) 80mm case fan I had bought for an unfinished PC mod and I had an old ac-dc selectable adapter. The fan is loud at a full 12V at 7.5v it's not bad and hell you can't beat the price of something you forgot you had.:D

I had looked at that brand of fans and that website at work today. I will probably get a new quieter fan. I still would like it to come on/off with amp and/or temp. To me it's no sense to run it when it's not needed and I'm too lazy to flick a switch and can't rely on others (wife) to always plug it in or turn it on.

I'm attaching a pic of my system, so all can see my setup.

Today on my way home I got to tinking about the junk in my closet. So tonite after the miss's and little one went to bed, I went digging. I found an light up (red) 80mm case fan I had bought for an unfinished PC mod and I had an old ac-dc selectable adapter. The fan is loud at a full 12V at 7.5v it's not bad and hell you can't beat the price of something you forgot you had.:D

I had looked at that brand of fans and that website at work today. I will probably get a new quieter fan. I still would like it to come on/off with amp and/or temp. To me it's no sense to run it when it's not needed and I'm too lazy to flick a switch and can't rely on others (wife) to always plug it in or turn it on.

I'm attaching a pic of my system, so all can see my setup.


Hi Tomkat,

For what it's worth I'm doing the same thing at the moment as you, and I have settled on using the mcubed miniNG controller.
There is a very good thread worth reading found in my next post as it will not allow me to post a URL and it has all you will want to know in it. Don't mind my dumb assed questions towards the end of it. :)

Cheers
John

http://www.avforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=401717 is the link I did try and post. It's from your cousins across the big pond.

Cheers
John

Across the pond, that's funny. My company has a division over in the UK and recently 3 of the guys came over for training. We all had a great time when we took them out for dinner and drinks and then to the horse races. We also have a rep in Melbourne, AUS that visited a while back. I talk with both groups on a weekly bases.I would love to get over there and visit.

I think the controller would be a great. Would this work with the US 110-120VAC power?

I still haven't found much info on having my amp trigger the fans. I never thought about the importance of having a switched outlet on the back of the amp when I bought it.

There's an old saying that applies here I guess. "There's more than one way to skin a cat" I'll figure something out eventually.

Cheers Pal, and have a pint or two for me if you drink.

G'Day Tomkat,

I'm certainly no expert as you could see by my stupid questions, but in regards to the controller working I don't see why not, after all by the time the power gets to the miniNG it is already converted to 12V DC, but hey perhaps someone else may back me up on that one.

I meant to say in my other post to you that I also have an Onkyo amp, but I went for the 875 which pumps out a fair amount of heat by all accounts.

There is a support forum for the Mcubed if you want to post a question, I myself have just asked if you can run four fans of the miniNG using Y cables.
http://www.t-balancer.com/english/support.htm

I too have looked for somewhere in the US to buy this controller as I get far better value for our Aussie dollar than compared to the British Pound, so far I have found nowhere. :(

I am about to order my Mcubed as I want it shipped here before Xmas so I can have it all up and running by then.

Let us know how you get on.

Cheers
John

I was looking for cooling options for my cabinet, and i found this on Newegg...no one has mentioned it yet and it is a MUCH cheaper solution to these $200 set ups...

SilenX IXA-FCEX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999167

It is an AC-DC converter w/ 4 pc fan connectors, 1 4pin molex and 3 3pin output lines each with their own speed controller and a blue led to show power for each...If you don't use 3-wire fans the blue power indicator lights will not light up.

It is currently on sale for $5 off..

I was looking for cooling options for my cabinet, and i found this on Newegg...no one has mentioned it yet and it is a MUCH cheaper solution to these $200 set ups...

SilenX IXA-FCEX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999167

It is an AC-DC converter w/ 4 pc fan connectors, 1 4pin molex and 3 3pin output lines each with their own speed controller and a blue led to show power for each...If you don't use 3-wire fans the blue power indicator lights will not light up.

It is currently on sale for $5 off..Good find.

As anyone thought about this one. It does seem a little noisey but might be liveable for some. Prise is good. Seems like a sheet of air would provide good even coverage.

http://http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16800887011

I do not think I will go with this but will stick with the standard 12vDC case fan like the S-flex. What I want to do is trigger it from the amp (Onkyo 605= no switched outlet) or will probably wind up doing some sort of temp based control. Just can't decide on temp controler. I thought about getting a PC multi fan controler with temp and then it would have a nice LCD that might show fan speed and temp. I could put the controller in a project type box and wire via the plug adapters at Radioshack and a AC-DC convertor. Thoughts, comments, suggestions?

Well, time was there was nothing more than a vcr and a tape deck in the entertainment cabinet...But I have a 100w x7 receiver/amplifier, an oppo dvd player, a cable box, a tivo series 3hd, an vcr and a Belkin Pure av power center all in my cabinet. It was always scorching when I would open the front door, and the top of the cabinet was always warm to the touch. Soo..i sought a quiet cheap way to cool it all...in comes the SilenX IXA-FCEX External 4 Channel Fan Controller (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811999167)

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/9783/1199916702yb0.jpg

it controlls up to 4 fans (pc) and has an AC adapter. It is plugged into one of the ac outlets on the receiver so whenever the receiver is on they turn on. I mounted 2ENERMAX UC-12EB 120mm Case Fans (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16811999099) that are SOOOO quiet. The controller has speed control, but even on high you cannot hear these fans.

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/6672/img0194qx4.jpg

you can see the fans at the top back in the cabinets. I can't stress how quiet they are, and as a result the Receiver is COOL to the touch on the top and the Tivo is the same. It really is amazing, and prob adds a lot of life to the electronics...and my wife was happy b/c it is free heat in the winter ;)

Oh and the stop sign is there so my daughter doesn't continually open and close the dvd player and put different discs in, and turn the receiver up to 99

I use the same SilenX fan PSU/controller on my setup.

http://www.hosting.superhighoutput.com/yamahasho/Computer/IMG_7017.jpg

But I have a 100w x7 receiver/amplifier, an oppo dvd player, a cable box, a tivo series 3hd, an vcr and a Belkin Pure av power center all in my cabinet.

Ahhh a VCR! I still keep one in the living room entertainment center but haven't used it in five years. :) I was thinking about tossing it recently.

I previously had one 80mm Arctic Silencer exhaust fan at the top of my tower, but since adding a PS3 to the cabinet it becomes an oven when it's on. I cut two additional 80mm holes at the different shelves in the cabinet and installed Silenx fans as inputs. All three run continuously. Dropped the Top shelf temp from 98F to 80F with the PS3 at full bore.

http://members.cox.net/grimd/ec1.jpg

I have an expensive custom oak cabinet in my living room and my wife insists on it looking nice and being quiet. I have a fair amount of quality A/V equipment inside that was getting too warm, so I started looking for a long lasting quality solution. I found a professionally made fan system at a large well known online retailer and catalog company (will not mention the name) for just over $500. It did look well made and appeared that it would last a long time, but when I hooked it up I found that it sounded like a bathroom ventilator. This alone was a deal killer. Fortunately, I had the common sense to test it before permanently installing it. I also noticed that whenever the fan cycled, there was some interference in the A/V equipment. Needless to say, I started looking again and sent their poor design back to them. I happened on to a site with what appeared to be a very promising product at less than half the price "cabinetcool.com". After talking with the guy, (I had already been burned once) I got the product and tested it before installing it. Surprise - It didn't sound like a bathroom ventilator and there was circuitry to eliminate the A/V interference. It had it's own thermostat and only ran when the temperature increased above where I set the thermostat. The fan was not anything like the fans that I could get at Radio Shack. This was clearly a very very high quality fan designed to last. I installed the "CabinetCool.com" product and was pleased with the instructions. It's doing a fantastic job and I don't think I will ever have to replace it. I've checked the temperature inside the cabinet and it's doing a great job of keeping the temperature down. Nice insurance for my equipment. My wife is also very pleased with the sound level as am I.

I installed the "CabinetCool.com" product and was pleased with the instructions. It's doing a fantastic job and I don't think I will ever have to replace it.

:eek::eek::eek: >$250 for a SINGLE FAN???

One good 120mm DC 60cfm 18dba fan (inaudible) = ~$14->$30
One 600ma AC->DC adapter OR the SilenX all-in-1 controller posted above= ~$17->$30
Electricity to run 24/7 for a year = maybe $5

Maybe it's just me....

Since you have to do the hard part which is cutting the hole, in either case, what are you really paying for?...a thermostat???

FWIW:
The controller in your link is nothing more than an attic fan thermostat. You could pick those up on the cheap and couple that with any AC fan. That link is a raping.


What you do with your money is your choice and I sure that solution probably works, but I'm still flabbergasted.

I think I spent all of $50 (shipping included) for 4 Yate Loon fans and the SilenX fan controller/PSU.

I orginally found some "vents to make it look more clean and professional, but then found that they cause noise. I nice perfect circle hole and properly placed fan look good as well. My test fans (Panaflo 120mm fans) were LOUD, but they were left over fans.

I actually can't hear anything and it keeps and Xbox 360 cool with the door closed. :)

If you're really into DIY, this is an easy problem to solve "on the cheap."

I bought a couple 12V fans from Mouser and built a little speed controller using less than $10 worth of parts. The speed controller is adjustable, but also has a thermocouple that sits on top of the receiver. The hotter the receiver gets, the faster the fans run, automatically. I power it from a "junk box" 12V supply I had laying around that plugs into the switched outlet on the back of my Yamaha RX-V1800.

I have less than 1" of clearance around the receiver in my "rack." The fans are mounted in a door that encloses the back part of the receiver compartment. I bought a cheap ($8) indoor/outdoor digital thermometer from Target and set the outdoor probe on top of the receiver. The highest I've ever seen it get is about 110 degrees F. Usually it runs in the high-90's and low 100's; well below spec for commercial grade components.

It works very well, and I spent less than $50 for the parts. Labor of love, though, it took a full day to put it all together.

In a previous life, I did some work designing rackmount enclosures (http://www.gavazzi-computing.com/products/details.php?Product=94). They were good sized, like 10U or 12U (some were smaller, some were full cabinets). They were about the size of one of these:
http://members.cox.net/grimd/ec1.jpg
[image courtesy of Grimdeath]

They had their own ac/dc switching power supplies and a big rack of cards and fans for cooling. The fans often had filters. Sometimes just air filters, sometimes emi/rfi honeycomb filters. They always had finger guards.

Pressurized cooling was generally preferred. This means fans on the inlet, blowing air in to the enclosure. This keeps a slight positive pressure inside the enclosure which helps keep dust (and other unwanted stuff) out.

The other thing to consider is where the air will flow. The enclosures had sheet metal ducting to ensure the air would flow over the cards and power supply. It's probably not critical to have ducting in a TV stand (just getting any airflow through there will probably make enough difference to keep the components happy), but if you can keep it in mind, it can make your cooling even more effective.

From another hobby where we want to keep things cool and keep the dust out, if you have the fans blowing in and have a filter on the back side, you will keep almost all dust out of your enclosure.

Hi there I used two variable speed 120mm Silverstone fans purchased at Tiger Direct for $16.00 each. These fans are very quiet and installed in simple wood mount(silicone pads). I made this to sit on top of my Anthem D2 and blends in perfect with the cabinet. These fans have washable foam screens mounted on top to prevent dirt from blowing in on my Anthem.:)

Hi there here is different view

Thanks
Bruce

Here's my DIY fan project... Very inexpensive, but requires some soldering and construction skills.

I built a variable voltage regulator using an LM317. Here's the schematic (courtesy of National Semiconductor):
http://tatanka02.home.comcast.net/~tatanka02/LM317.jpg

This is fed with a 12 volt "wall wart" power supply I had laying around (doesn't everyone have a box full of these?).

This was assembled on a small piece of 1/8" aluminum plate. There is a thermal washer between the voltage regulator and the plate just to keep any power off the aluminum. The aluminum acts as a heat sink, too, but it doesn't really get hot. The little potentiometer is glued down with hot glue.
http://tatanka02.home.comcast.net/~tatanka02/stereo/dsc_2827_std.jpg

The plate was drilled to fit a tiny plastic box. A hole in the box allows access to the "speed control."
http://tatanka02.home.comcast.net/~tatanka02/stereo/dsc_2833_std.jpg

Here it is, mounted in place with the 12 volt DC fans. This is the back panel for the receiver compartment on a rack I built out of 3/4" plywood. It's hinged and has a friction latch, so I can just "open the door" for access.
http://tatanka02.home.comcast.net/~tatanka02/stereo/dsc_2842_std.jpg

One modification I made to the circuit: The fixed resistor was replaced with a thermistor on an 18" wire. This is why you see two wires coming out of the control box. One is for power and the other goes to the thermistor. The thermistor lead sits on top of the receiver and as the receiver heats up, the fans run faster. So, I adjust the fans "cold" using the pot (6-7V seems good for these fans) and they'll speed up as things heat up. The power supply is plugged into the switched outlet on the back of the receiver, so it makes for a "no thinking required" installation once it's set up. I originally designed this for four fans (which is why they aren't spread out more). Turns out, two is enough.

Total cost for the parts, under $30 not including shipping, but keep in mind that I didn't buy a power supply. I might re-do this at some point in the future just to get quieter fans. The fans I used were the quietest "cheap" fans I could find and I can hear them when the receiver is turned down low. Any volume at all drowns them out.

Well I am confused. Great arguments for pushing in the cool air and for pulling out the warm. I see some folks that appear to have both. I too will have a wood door enclosure running IR remote to cable box and a sony gd910. Also have a PS3.

I found this fan with thermostadt. Not sure that is neccessary. Any opinions?
http://arcticstreamcooling.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=30


Don't suppose we have a concensus?

Well I am confused. Great arguments for pushing in the cool air and for pulling out the warm. I see some folks that appear to have both. I too will have a wood door enclosure running IR remote to cable box and a sony gd910. Also have a PS3.

I found this fan with thermostadt. Not sure that is neccessary. Any opinions?
http://arcticstreamcooling.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=30


Don't suppose we have a concensus?



My fans come on with my components... No need for me to have a t-stat. I also wanted to stay cheap since fans are cheap and other companies rape you on they price...

I am adding one or two quiet computer fans to my Onkyo 805 to help with the heat issue. Am thinking about the noctua NF-S12-800 which is supposed to be quiet. I can find fans but not the AC to 4 prong molex adapters locally. In the interest of time i am thinking of using one of many wall warts I have lying around the house. They all seem to have diferent ratings. For instance one shows:

output= 3.7vdc .35A and another
output= 11vdc 550ma

There are others as well. Can anyone advise what a 12V dc computer fan would need.

The noctura fan states:
Input Power 0,60 W



Input Current 0,05 A



Voltage Range 6-13 V



Thanks

I am adding one or two quiet computer fans to my Onkyo 805 to help with the heat issue. Am thinking about the noctua NF-S12-800 which is supposed to be quiet. I can find fans but not the AC to 4 prong molex adapters locally. In the interest of time i am thinking of using one of many wall warts I have lying around the house. They all seem to have diferent ratings. For instance one shows:

output= 3.7vdc .35A and another
output= 11vdc 550ma

There are others as well. Can anyone advise what a 12V dc computer fan would need.

The noctura fan states:
Input Power 0,60 W



Input Current 0,05 A



Voltage Range 6-13 V



Thanks


That fan draws 50mA at 12 volts DC.
Both warts you listed are more than capable of sourcing the current requirement. However, at 3.7v the fan will hardly be spinning at all.
The 11v wart will work fine. Or, spend the $13 and get a wart that lets you select the voltage you want so you can fine tune the fan for airflow and quietness.

Do you guys think this adapter would work to hook up a 12volt fan to AC current?

It's intended to hook up a standard computer hard drive (4 pin molex) to AC current. Any reason why I couldn't power a few fans from it?

12V + 5V DC to AC POWER SUPPLY UNIT for Hard Disk Drive

Standard 5V 12V voltage for 3.5" Hard Drive
Input : 100V-240V AC, 50/60 Hz, MAY 1.5A 75-100VA
Output : 5V DC, 2A ; 12V DC, 2A

http://maxorigin.com/A-Ric/ebay_pictures/linuxbeginner/power_a.jpg

http://maxorigin.com/A-Ric/ebay_pictures/linuxbeginner/power_b.jpg

clouser2k7
That will work. However, I would suggest going to Wal-Mart or RS and getting an adjustable voltage power supply. The one you show pictured outputs 12v and 5v. I can tell you from experience that your not moving much air at 5v and at 12v you are running full blast. If you have a quiet fan then just run it at full speed other wise 7v seems to be a good mix of sound vs airflow.

I got some good info from this thread, so I thought I'd post my results.

I got a PS3 for BD viewing, and quickly found that it's fan went bonkers a few minutes into a movie --- the PS3 definitely doesn't like being in an enclosed cabinet.

After reading posts in this thread, I got the SilenX 4-fan controller and two Scythe "slipstream" 120mm 1600 rpm fans. Cut some holes in the back of my cabinet and mounted both fans to exhaust (they sit on either side of the wire hole. The PS3 is on the top shelf of a two-shelf area in a TV stand). The fans are huge (I've put 120mm fans in a PC case before, but just wasn't remembering how profoundly large they are... :))

I thought that perhaps I'd need to add a partition of some sort to force airflow to come across the PS3, but it hasn't been necessary. The shelf the PS3 sits on stops short of the back wall of the cabinet, and I was afraid air would just flow up from the lower level and out the fans, and the air around the PS3 would just sit there. There is clearly enough airflow past the PS3, though --- I watched an hour's worth of a movie with the cabinet closed and the PS3 was cool at the end, and the PS3 fan never started roaring.

The scythe fans are set to about half-speed on the controller, and are barely audible with the rest of the system turned off. They are audible in the sense that if you turn them off, you realize that there was background noise before. I'm pleased by the sound level; the PS3 fan sounds like a train going by when it comes on. This is an improvement.

A hilarious side-effect; After I installed the fans, hooked everything up and tested, I discovered that my Dish DVR was acting like someone was constantly hitting buttons on the remote. I determined that it wasn't my remote that caused it (the dvr was changing channels constantly!). As a stab in the dark, I took off the RF antenna that the DVR has on the back (I'm using an IR remote, not the RF one). That cured the problem. The fan controller or more likely the fan motors are sending out an RF signal at just the right frequency to control my VIP-722! Never saw that one coming.

Finally, I'd never bought from FrozenCPU before (NewEgg was out of stock). I commend them --- a really fast, pleasant experience. Here are the products I used.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/6445/fan-382/Scythe_Slip_Stream_120mm_x_25mm_Fan_-_1600_RPM_SY1225SL12H.html
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5931/bus-101/SilenX_4_Channel_Fan_Controller_w_ACDC_Adapter_IXA-FCEX.html

Cheers, and thanks for all the helpful posts.
Ken

Fletch, this looks like a cool setup. Am I to understand that you have the fans plugged into the controller,,,,and the controller plugged into the wall,,,, and you're good to go? With speed controls and all, without having to get converter this and converter that? If so, this is what I'm gonna do if necessary.

Which leads me to my question for all of you guys out there. I am building a wall unit for my LCD (50" Sony, if that matters), receiver, DVD player, and 360. The dvd, 360, and receiver are all going to be on open shelves with like 6-8 inches of space in back and 10-12 inches of space on top with 3-4 inches of space on sides. I figure this will give them enough ventilationfor those units, am I right? However the TV will be in between shelves with about 3 inches of space on top and the 2 sides, and about 4-6 inches behind it.

Will I need to put a fan or 2 for ventilation on the TV? Or do you guys think it will get enough airflow and will be ok as is?

I thought if necessary, I could put 1 fan on the shelf the tv sits on, and 1 on the shelf above to create a draft like effect behind the tv for cooling.


Thanks for any and all help......

DMAN

For fan mods, here's a VERY cool little contraption.
I was cutting flips when I found it the other day.
It's a temperature controlled 0/1 switch that is open until it reaches 115F degrees at which point it closes, completing the circuit.

Basically, if you wire this in series with your DC fan your fan will be off at all times UNLESS your unit is above 115*, at which point the fan will be ON until the temperature drops back below that mark.

Do a google search for Selco CA115

Fletch, this looks like a cool setup. Am I to understand that you have the fans plugged into the controller,,,,and the controller plugged into the wall,,,, and you're good to go? With speed controls and all, without having to get converter this and converter that? If so, this is what I'm gonna do if necessary.

Yes, that's right. Slightly better is to plug the controller into a switched outlet on your AV receiver or some other component, so that the fans only power on when your system is on.

Ken

Yes, that's right. Slightly better is to plug the controller into a switched outlet on your AV receiver or some other component, so that the fans only power on when your system is on.

Ken

See my method above, fixes all of these issues.

See my method above, fixes all of these issues.

Well, I installed my fans to cool a PS3, with the purpose of keeping the PS3's own fan from spinning up. When the PS3's fan is in "first gear" it's reasonably quiet, but when it hits third gear, it is extremely loud.

So, I don't really want my exhaust fans waiting until the cabinet gets hot before they come on; I want them on as soon as the PS3 is. That way, the PS3 stays quiet while I watch movies.

Thanks Fletch, and Euclid, that switch sounds pretty good. But how about my ultimate question....

I am building a wall unit for my LCD (50" Sony, if that matters), receiver, DVD player, and 360. The dvd, 360, and receiver are all going to be on open shelves with like 6-8 inches of space in back and 10-12 inches of space on top with 3-4 inches of space on sides. I figure this will give them enough ventilationfor those units, am I right? However the TV will be in between shelves with about 3 inches of space on top and the 2 sides, and about 4-6 inches behind it.

Will I need to put a fan or 2 for ventilation on the TV? Or do you guys think it will get enough airflow and will be ok as is?

Thanks......

DMAN

All - Thanks for all the wonderful input in this thread. One last question that hasn't seemed to have been answered in a while - I am looking for a way to turn the fans on (likely via the 4 Channel Fan Controller since i want to install two intakes - one on each side of the cabinet) when the Receiver turns on. I have an Onkyo605 which doesnt have a switched outlet to plug into. I also dont think i want to do a temp-controlled switch because 1) no electrical experience and dont think these are "plug and play" and 2) price. So i think my only option is an IR or RF outlet (to be turned on by my yet-to-be-purchased Harmony remote. Does this sound right?

As for IR/RF outlets, this one looks simple enough, radio shack has an "Indoor/Outdoor Wireless AC Switch" that seems simple enough. Anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks again for all the information on this thread!

FYI - Here's the gear in my cabinet:

Verizon Fios HD DVR
Toshiba HD-A2 (likely to be replaced by a Profile 2.0 Blu-ray player soon!)
Xbox 360
Onkyo 605

Currently there's one 3" whole at the top center of the cabinet for wiring, and i cut another 6" x 2" square out from behind the Onkyo for more wiring options and air flow (obviously air flow didnt work since i am in this thread!).

Here (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999167) is what I use. My stereo has switched outlets on the back so I plugged it in there. When the stereo comes on, so do my fans.


I have an intake and exaust, as well as a fan blowing up underneath of the receiver. It stays very cool!

This picture is before I installed the lower intake fan.
http://hosting.superhighoutput.com/yamahasho/Computer/Updated%20Pics/IMG_7288.jpg
http://hosting.superhighoutput.com/yamahasho/Computer/Updated%20Pics/IMG_7286.jpg

All - Thanks for all the wonderful input in this thread. One last question that hasn't seemed to have been answered in a while - I am looking for a way to turn the fans on (likely via the 4 Channel Fan Controller since i want to install two intakes - one on each side of the cabinet) when the Receiver turns on. I have an Onkyo605 which doesnt have a switched outlet to plug into. I also dont think i want to do a temp-controlled switch because 1) no electrical experience and dont think these are "plug and play" and 2) price. So i think my only option is an IR or RF outlet (to be turned on by my yet-to-be-purchased Harmony remote. Does this sound right?

As for IR/RF outlets, this one looks simple enough, radio shack has an "Indoor/Outdoor Wireless AC Switch" that seems simple enough. Anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks again for all the information on this thread!

FYI - Here's the gear in my cabinet:

Verizon Fios HD DVR
Toshiba HD-A2 (likely to be replaced by a Profile 2.0 Blu-ray player soon!)
Xbox 360
Onkyo 605

Currently there's one 3" whole at the top center of the cabinet for wiring, and i cut another 6" x 2" square out from behind the Onkyo for more wiring options and air flow (obviously air flow didnt work since i am in this thread!).


I have the same receiver and will probably go with this solution I worked up. I know you said you didn't want it to be temp controlled but I beleive your reasoning for this was complexity and cost. I think my solution solves both.
First we could use this power supply:
http://www.jab-tech.com/12v-DC-Power-Supply-with-Single-Molex-Connector-pr-3776.html

It has a Molex connector on it that we could plug into this temp controller. UPDATE: Need more research this may be a themro only and not a controller.

http://www.jab-tech.com/Scythe-KAMA-THERMO-Thermometer-pr-3595.html

Then plug the controller into the fan of your choice and place the temp probe on whatever component you would like or in our case clip it to the top of the 605. I would wrap the wires into some nice wire loom and tack to cornors of cabinet and mount the temp controller some where convenient. I think I figured total bill would be about $44.00 + shipping (includes 120mm Scythe fan, anti-vibe-gasket, and filter).

I am going to vent my built-in kitchen style cabinets outdoors using a short piece of laundry tubing (horizontally). Fans will be powered using the Onkyo's aux plug The fan will be in an exhaust configuration near the top and a hole at the bottom to draw in air - any thoughts on how to prevent moisture from getting inside the cabinets?

Why do you think you even need to vent it going to outdoors? Seems like a lot of unnecessary work. And like you mention, preventing moisture from getting in and building up could be a real problem, and also one that may be near impossible to deal with without spending a lot of money. Besides if it really get so hot inside that cabinet that it needs to be vented to the outdoors, then it's probably time to consider routing some sort of a small dedicated A/C device just to the cabinet. Installing cooling fans and venting to the room itself, should provide all the circulation you will need to prevent overheating.

I acquired a Pioneer Plasma with the external media box PDP4240. Love the TV put the media center fan is loud. Would it be thinkable to replace the loud fan with a noiseless fan?

Thanks.

JB

just wanted to thank you guys for this thread...

i installed 2 dc quiet fans from cpucoolers and a wal-mart ac to dc universal adapter and now my HK AVR is much cooler in the cabinet.

thanks again!!

dm

dwmoss, where did you say you got your quiet fans from? what is that website? or is it a store?

thanks.....dman11

i got my fans from coolerguys.com as mentioned in this thread i believe....

dm

I am going to vent my built-in kitchen style cabinets outdoors using a short piece of laundry tubing (horizontally). Fans will be powered using the Onkyo's aux plug The fan will be in an exhaust configuration near the top and a hole at the bottom to draw in air - any thoughts on how to prevent moisture from getting inside the cabinets?

I was considdering a similar configuration into my attic. 2" PVC horizontally at the top of the cabinet with slices half way through at about 1" apart and painted black. Then run the PVC up and into the attic with an adapter to 4" and a remote fan triggered by the AVR. Like a muffler, the more bends the better and like a central vacuum system, you won't here the fan.

I will be puting the fan on a speed control to adjust CFMs and audibility.

I am also going to add a fan or two to my cabinet to cool a new Onkyo 605, which gets very hot from what I have read. I am considering this fan - SilenX iXtrema Pro 120mm Case Fan from Frys (sorry, newb here and not allowed to post a URL yet - double secret probation) which seems to have an excellent cfm to noise ratio. I only have about 2 to 3 inches above the receiver so my question for those of you who have used fan cooling - Will it work with limited room above the receiver?

Is anyone familiar with the dmckenzie products one ebay? What is the quality and ustomer service like?

Is anyone familiar with the dmckenzie products one ebay? What is the quality and ustomer service like?

I have bought several things from him and he has never let me down. He just completed a custom setup for my Onkyo 605 with 120mm fan that has a foam seal to seat on top of th Onkyo, and thermo control switch that I have set at 80 degrees that sits on top of the Onkyo and then it plugs into the wall. When the temp of the Onkyo unit finally hits 80 the fan comes on by itself and keeps it nice and cool, when the Onkyo unit shuts off and goes below 80 the fan stops. This guy is awesome and very reasonable. Chated with him on Thursday and Monday had the parts and they work fine. I have sent several people over to him to get a setup for this unit.

Here is what I bought that he customized for me to do what I wanted, just send him an email and tell hime what you need and he can get it done.
Item number: 360027476993

Hi, guys:

I have an Onkyo 605. No closed cabinet, glass open shelves. I think the distance between the receiver and the next upper shelf is 5 cm.

Has anyone tried this one? Is it noisy?.

www.buyextras.com/evavcoblfanf.html

As far as I understand, this fan only pulls out the hot air, and do not send fresh air (and dirt) inside the receiver.

It looks an easy solution.

Or is it better the coolerguys.com product: Scythe S-FLEX (SFF21D) (SFF21E) (SFF21F) 120mm Dynamic Fluid Bearing Fan Nearly Inaudible ?

Comments?

I was looking for cooling options for my cabinet, and i found this on Newegg...no one has mentioned it yet and it is a MUCH cheaper solution to these $200 set ups...

SilenX IXA-FCEX
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999167

It is an AC-DC converter w/ 4 pc fan connectors, 1 4pin molex and 3 3pin output lines each with their own speed controller and a blue led to show power for each...If you don't use 3-wire fans the blue power indicator lights will not light up.


I got one of these; hooked it up to three Zalman 120mm fans, works just fine except one channel had no LED, it's apparently part of the voltage drop so there's very little room to get the fan cranked down to a low enough speed to be completely quite. I'd move the fan to the other channel (since I only need three), but those LEDs are extremely bright; it's sorta nice having one less of them to deal with! Bottom line; it's a cheaply built controller but it does the job.

The fan I was looking at on the page is 8.7db...coolerguys.com/sff21.html


After reading this thread, I bought the cooler guys dual 120mm fan unit mentioned above (CabCool1202 Dual 120mm Fan Cooler Kit for Cabinet / Home Theaters w/Thermal Control: CABCOOL-2) with the upgrade to the Scythe SFlex fans you link to.

It seemed like a complete solution that is easy to install and quiet and changes speed depending on temperature. All for a very reasonable price.

It has proven to be everything but quiet. Both fans have a fairly loud clicking sound at any speed. The fans get great reviews for being quiet, but mine certainly are not. (By the way, I left a review for the fans to balance out the good reviews, and it hasn't shown up after a few days at coolerguys. They are responsive company though, so I have just emailed to see if they will replace or refund). The loudness is not as loud as a refrigerator, but louder than my comcast cable/dvr box when it's recording.

UPDATE: Coolerguys are cool guys. They responded and were very willing to trade out the fans. They said these can make noise at low speeds and not all fans do that. They also offered to send an updated speed controller they will be selling soon. It is full on above 86 degrees and full off otherwise. I wish they would not have offered an upgrade to a speaker that works worse in the kit that others, but they are fully dedicated to making it work for the customer.

Does anyone know where I can get some 8-32 x 1 3/4" black machine screws to attach my fans to my entertainment center? I've tried Lowes, Home Depot, and Radio Shack. Internet companies have them, but they want to sell me thousands at a time.

Basically, the way this will work is I'll cut-out a hole for the 120mm fan, as well as four holes for the screws. The intake fan will be mounted underneath the bottom shelf. The exhaust fan will be mounted inside the cabinet, high on the right side, so it will be visible. I can't place the fan behind the cabinet, because of a sliding DVD drawer.


INTAKE FAN
Inside of cabinet floor
Grille
-----Cabinet-----
Rubber fan washer
Fan
Grille

EXHAUST FAN
Outside of cabinet side
Black Grille
-----Cabinet-----
Rubber fan washer
Fan
Grille

Thanks,
Kelly

Does anyone know where I can get some 8-32 x 1 3/4" black machine screws to attach my fans to my entertainment center? I've tried Lowes, Home Depot, and Radio Shack. Internet companies have them, but they want to sell me thousands at a time.



Try a place like a well stocked ACE Hardware. Also if you are in or near a major city, look up "fasteners or industrial fasteners, or even industtial supplies" in the Yellow pages. Many industrial fastener suppy stores will sell small amounts to walk in customers. You might be surprised how many places that there are that have this sort of item. Also if you do have to buy a full box, a lot of times they are also offered in smaller amounts like 25 or 100. A full box of smaller amount like 25, should only be a couple of dollars.

Try a place like a well stocked ACE Hardware. Also if you are in or near a major city, look up "fasteners or industrial fasteners, or even industtial supplies" in the Yellow pages. Many industrial fastener suppy stores will sell small amounts to walk in customers. You might be surprised how many places that there are that have this sort of item. Also if you do have to buy a full box, a lot of times they are also offered in smaller amounts like 25 or 100. A full box of smaller amount like 25, should only be a couple of dollars.

While you don't need to use "fan screws" and can use anything you find at the hardware store, you will have issues with the head diameter and the fan grill; the larger heads will never seat in the small depression that the conventional fan screws are meant to lay in.
I did find one place on-line a while back that sold double length "fan screws", but they were from Canada and didn't wan't the hassle.

Why do you think you even need to vent it going to outdoors? Seems like a lot of unnecessary work. And like you mention, preventing moisture from getting in and building up could be a real problem, and also one that may be near impossible to deal with without spending a lot of money. Besides if it really get so hot inside that cabinet that it needs to be vented to the outdoors, then it's probably time to consider routing some sort of a small dedicated A/C device just to the cabinet. Installing cooling fans and venting to the room itself, should provide all the circulation you will need to prevent overheating.

Well since it's a completely closed cabinet i think having some sort of ventilation is essential and while a full ac solution you mentioned is probably ideal - I would like to explore the simpler options at first

go to mid atlantics website . They have a great tool ot determine whats appropriate for your cooling. ...FYI every 10 degrees over 85 can reduce the life of digital equipment by 40%

daniel@towerpower.com email me if you want some help

You mean 85C right? Not 85F?

Well since it's a completely closed cabinet i think having some sort of ventilation is essential and while a full ac solution you mentioned is probably ideal - I would like to explore the simpler options at first

A simpler option is not playing around and thinking that you also need to vent it to the outdoors. With the right combination of intake vents and fans to promote air movement and vented it out to the room itself or another room. Then there should be no need for venting it out at all to the outdoors, even if it is a fully enclosed cabinet.

You mean 85C right? Not 85F?


"how hot is your rack"
"studies show that for every 10degree rise F , the life of your digital equipment is reduced by 40%" :eek:

So they state Farenheit...

PAGE 8

http://repnet.middleatlantic.com/COMPANY/MarketingFiles/TempInsideRacks/Thermal%20Management%203-04.pdf

yeah, Baltik, venting outside seems like overkill...You are going to end up with a hornets nest in your AV rack...

Hey....Nobody tried this one offered in www.buyextras.com/evavcoblfanf.html

BXT Amplifier/Receiver Cooler + Fan Speed Controller + AC Power Supply

They says: ".. put this cooler on top of A/V component Air Ventillation, and the cooler will start to suck hot air out from the A/V component"

As far as I understand, this fan only pulls out the hot air, and do not send fresh air (and dirt) inside the receiver.

Is it noisy?.
they states: 5 dBA(Min Fan Speed at 3V) and 33.6 dBA (Max Fan Speed at 12V).

It looks an easy solution....

Hey guys, I have been browsing these forums for quite some time now, but this is my first post. I would like some advice on installing a couple fans in my AV cabinet. I am trying to cool an enclosed portion of my AV cabinet that holds my xbox360. I have 2 scythe 92mm fans and the silenx 4 fan controller posted earlier in this thread. Will I get better cooling effects if I install the fans as exhaust fans or intake fans? Or should I install one exhaust, one intake? any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

A simpler option is not playing around and thinking that you also need to vent it to the outdoors. With the right combination of intake vents and fans to promote air movement and vented it out to the room itself or another room. Then there should be no need for venting it out at all to the outdoors, even if it is a fully enclosed cabinet.

Problem is the corner where the cabinet is located is between 2 exterior walls...

Problem is the corner where the cabinet is located is between 2 exterior walls...


And you think cutting a hole somewhere in a exterior wall in order to vent it to the outside would not a problem?
And that dealing with intake of any sort of outside moisture or anything else that could possibly be drawn in from the outside would not be even a bigger problem over and above that as well?

You are making this way more difficult than needs to be, just vent it into the room itself. Place the vents in the top, bottom or back of the cabinet were they are not obvious. Same goes for a fan if you are using only one, but in that case that should be towards the top to deal with the fact that heat always will rise to the top and build up there and stay if you don't at least have a vent somewhere towards the top. Also any vents or fan intakes or exhausts holes that are not so easy to completely hide, you can always disguise them in some way with some sort of 'grill' or even a simple decorative expanded metal plate over them.

If you're really worried about equipment failure before it becomes obsolete then you can remove the cover and put some of these http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g40/c16/list/p1/Air_Cooling-Chipset_HeatsinksCoolers.html
on every chip you find that doesn't have one.

Hi All,

Thanks to the info in this thread, I was able to hone my cooling design for my cabinet. I used Scythe 120mm's and the Silenx 4 controller and it's powered by the ac plug on my AVR. I really can't hear it at all and everything is so much cooler - just what I was going for :p

Couple of pics attached. The first is of the fan system and the other pic is of the front of the cabinet (with my old tv, guess I should've taken new pics):

Nice job! I take it that since your e-center is open, all fans are exhaust. Is that correct?

Nice job! I take it that since your e-center is open, all fans are exhaust. Is that correct?

Yep, open cabinet and just pulling air from the front and blowing it out the back. Even with the cabinet open, the components just cooked in there without the fans.

WindyWilly Cooling Products on Ebay has pre made fan/transformers.
Or google ---Receiver Cooling fans

how do you guys have them (fans) turned on and off? Do you just keep on plugging the power supply in when you want them on and out (unplugged) when you don't need them on? Is there an on and off switch you could use or hookup to the fans? Im looking to hook up 2 120mm fans up to maybe a speed controller and then just a 12v adjustable power supply. but im wondering whats the best way to turning them on and off? i have a onkyo 605 receiver.

i've read about plugging the power supply into the receiver but i dont know if my receiver can do that. what plug on the back of the receiver do i look for?

how do you guys have them (fans) turned on and off? Do you just keep on plugging the power supply in when you want them on and out (unplugged) when you don't need them on? Is there an on and off switch you could use or hookup to the fans? Im looking to hook up 2 120mm fans up to maybe a speed controller and then just a 12v adjustable power supply. but im wondering whats the best way to turning them on and off? i have a onkyo 605 receiver.

i've read about plugging the power supply into the receiver but i dont know if my receiver can do that. what plug on the back of the receiver do i look for?

Doesn't the Onkyo have a switched outlet on back? I know the 705 does.
Sometimes your cable box may have a switched outlet too.
As for me, they draw such little power I have no reason to turn them off.

I have a cabinet with a closed front I was going to add vent holes on the back and 3 fans probably 120mm. One fan for my Denon 3808, 1 fan for my tivo series 3 and 1 fan for the PS3 all to vent would that be correct or do I need to add a fan for intake as well???:confused:

Here is a link to my stand
http://www.crateandbarrel.com/family.aspx?c=994&f=12147

I use the same SilenX fan PSU/controller on my setup.

http://www.hosting.superhighoutput.com/yamahasho/Computer/IMG_7017.jpg

How did you mount your fans?? The install looks very clean.

I have a cabinet with a closed front I was going to add vent holes on the back and 3 fans probably 120mm. One fan for my Denon 3808, 1 fan for my tivo series 3 and 1 fan for the PS3 all to vent would that be correct or do I need to add a fan for intake as well???:confused:

Here is a link to my stand
http://www.crateandbarrel.com/family.aspx?c=994&f=12147

If it is a multi-level cabinet (ie. shelves), make the top a vent, the levels below intakes.

If it is a multi-level cabinet (ie. shelves), make the top a vent, the levels below intakes.

Thanks that helps a lot.:D

Doesn't the Onkyo have a switched outlet on back? I know the 705 does.
Sometimes your cable box may have a switched outlet too.
As for me, they draw such little power I have no reason to turn them off.

The 604/674/705 has a power switcher on the back, the 605 does not. I have a thermo coupler inline on mine that is set for 80 degrees, when it reaches that temp then the fan comes one, when the receiver is off and temp is under 80 it shuts off automajically.

How did you mount your fans?? The install looks very clean.

Thanks, I just used velcro in the corners. I thought this might isolate fan vibration and allow easier removal/installation.

Thanks, I just used velcro in the corners. I thought this might isolate fan vibration and allow easier removal/installation.

Did you drill holes in your cabinet for the fans? I like this setup but would rather avoid taking a hole saw to my cabinet.

Being a a fire guy, I am going to go with positive pressure ventilation. I'm planning on running 6 fans on intake (the front corners will be mitered at 45 degrees and I will mount the fans in that trim piece) with one on exhaust at the back, there will be a small gap around the glass door and a few holes for the power supply/coax cables. I will put filtered grills on all the intake fans which should keep the air in the cabinet clean.

I'm thinking of either a thermostat fan controller or thermocoupler so the fans will kick on around 75-80 degrees. (Product suggestions?)

Design thoughts?

I was planning on leaving at least a 6" gap between the top of the receiver and the next shelf, would you do the same for Blue Ray, SAT Rec, and VCR? Or with the active cooling, would you narrow those gaps some?

I've been told that the Scythe fans don't work well with thermal controllers (work well run 100% of the time) ?

They are pushing either Yate Loons or Enermax Enoble fans, didn't someone report the Yate Loons as being pretty noisy?

Thanks!!

Did you drill holes in your cabinet for the fans? I like this setup but would rather avoid taking a hole saw to my cabinet.


I had to drill the holes, but I was happy with the finish. A 4.5" hole saw is almost a perfect fit for the size of the fan blade on a 120mm fan. If you take your time, you'll end up with good results and you can take a staining pen or just some stain to help blend in the edges and protect the wood.

Being a a fire guy, I am going to go with positive pressure ventilation. I'm planning on running 6 fans on intake (the front corners will be mitered at 45 degrees and I will mount the fans in that trim piece) with one on exhaust at the back, there will be a small gap around the glass door and a few holes for the power supply/coax cables. I will put filtered grills on all the intake fans which should keep the air in the cabinet clean.

I'm thinking of either a thermostat fan controller or thermocoupler so the fans will kick on around 75-80 degrees. (Product suggestions?)

Design thoughts?

I was planning on leaving at least a 6" gap between the top of the receiver and the next shelf, would you do the same for Blue Ray, SAT Rec, and VCR? Or with the active cooling, would you narrow those gaps some?

I've been told that the Scythe fans don't work well with thermal controllers (work well run 100% of the time) ?

They are pushing either Yate Loons or Enermax Enoble fans, didn't someone report the Yate Loons as being pretty noisy?

Thanks!!


From my experience, negative pressure, if postioned correctly works better. I also have a fan blowing under the my receiver with a hole cut in the shelf. It is amazing how cool it stays.

I think an intake and exhaust fan at the same speed or slightly slower intake is better, but YMMV.

I'm using 3 Scythe Slip Stream 120mm (1,200 RPM) fans in my computer and they do very well at 5v. They move more air than the Yate Loon's, but can also get very noisy at full speed. The Yate Loons I had in my cabinet could be run at full speed without breaking the sound barrier.

The 604/674/705 has a power switcher on the back, the 605 does not. I have a thermo coupler inline on mine that is set for 80 degrees, when it reaches that temp then the fan comes one, when the receiver is off and temp is under 80 it shuts off automajically.

where did you get your thermo coupler inline? what do u need?

i have a question on the power supply (most of them) you can adjust the voltage and when adjusting the voltage it will decrease or increase fan speed. is this wrong?

Hey guys, any of you ever use these fans for anything? ENERMAX Marathon Enlobal Fan 80mm UC-8EB How are they? Are they quiet enough?

I ordered them with a CABCOOL802 Dual 80mm Fan Cooling kit from coolerguys.com. I got extra screws, and the mesh grills with it and after shipping and all it came out to like $55. I didn't think that was too bad, what do you guys say?

Let me know on those fans.......Thanks!!

DMAN

Those are the fans I am looking at too, stat's don't look to bad, and they supposedly work better with a fan controller with thermostat. I would get a fan controller, you can fine tune the speed you want with it.

Hey....Nobody tried this one offered in www.buyextras.com/evavcoblfanf.html
...
It looks an easy solution....
I have this one (thanks to this thread!), bought a few months ago to help out my Onkyo 705 downstairs in the media room. Works great, very quiet behind glass doors of well-vented Salamander Twin20 (perf sides and extended rear panels), and kept the Onkyo way cooler than before.

Ironically, I just moved this fan up to the family room to cool my Yamaha 5660, which is inside a built-in wall cabinet. The Yamaha is on the top shelf (of three total, behind solid wood doors), and holes in the back for routing cables to the TV on the main, open shelf above. I bought the Antec AV cooler (http://www.antec.com/us/productDetails.php?ProdID=75007) as a replacement to use for the Onkyo, but do not like the Antec as much - bright blue light when on, noticeable noise even on low speed, and amp seems to be warmer since the Antec is a full-width component and sorta covers all the Onkyo's vent holes, though maybe about an inch above them. I liked the smaller footprint of the Buyextras' fan as it let the Onkyo breathe a little more efficiently...

I'll probably end up sending the Antec back to Buy.com and buying another Buyextras fan for less than half the $$ of the Antec. I will also add fans to circulate air thru the built-in bookcase of the family room. I've found some great ideas from others in this thread, so I'll be sure to post up pics when I get off my arse and tackle this project... :o

bricot,

yeah, I was looking at something like the SilenX 4 channel controller from frozencpu.com. It might even cut some of the 14 db noise to less than that with a little slower speed, and it will control up to 4 fans. So this leaves me room to grow if I want to add fans elsewhere in the unit I'm building. The two I am putting now are going to be in a shelf above my LCD in order to exhaust some or the hot air behind the unit.

Thanks for the input.....DMAN

Hey guys, any of you ever use these fans for anything? ENERMAX Marathon Enlobal Fan 80mm UC-8EB How are they? Are they quiet enough?

DMAN

I use 2 of the 80mm ENERMAX Enlobal fans to cool my Onkyo 605. I have them in the rear of the cabinet exhausting air. I just completed the cooling fan setup last week so I can not comment on thier longevity. I can tell you that they are very quiet and move plenty of air. I connected the fans to an attic fan thermostat set to 85°F and placed it on top of the receiver over the hotest spot (right rear). The fans come on after the receiver has been on for about 5 minutes and turn off about 5 minutes after the receiver is turned off. Hope this helps - let me know if you want pics or other info.

gosurf,

This is quite encouraging to hear. And yeah, of course any pics would be awesome. I am going to be using mine to vent air from behind my LCD TV. My receiver (Onkyo 604) is actually going to be on an open shelf so I think it will be OK.

Did your fans come in some sort of kit or did you just put the setup together yourself? If so, where did you buy from?

Thanks for the info, I'm looking forward to getting mine in now......

DMAN

DMAN - Do you have plenty of room above your receiver? There is only about 3" clearance above my receiver and the manual said it needs 8".

I already had the 12V power supply (from an old phone) and the attic fan thermostat (from my son's science fair project) so I ordered the fans from Monoprice and put it together myself. Is is not pretty but you can't see it from the front and it does the job.

Hi All,
I used Scythe 120mm's and the Silenx 4 controller and it's powered by the ac plug on my AVR. I really can't hear it at all and everything is so much cooler

Which Scythe fans did you use? Found two I am interested in on newegg. One pulls 68cfm @ 24dB ($8.99), the other 44cfm @ 19dB ($6.99). Trying decide which one to buy. Will be using the SilenX 4 controller with at least 2, maybe as many as 4 fans.

Which Scythe fans did you use? Found two I am interested in on newegg. One pulls 68cfm @ 24dB ($8.99), the other 44cfm @ 19dB ($6.99). Trying decide which one to buy. Will be using the SilenX 4 controller with at least 2, maybe as many as 4 fans.

If you want QUIET:

Scythe S-FLEX (SFF21D) (SFF21E) (SFF21F) 120mm Dynamic Fluid Bearing Fan Nearly Inaudible

Market Leading Low-Noise Level
S-FDB technology drastically eliminates the friction between the bearing and the shaft which makes this fan nearly inaudible to human ears. Additional suction magnet optimizes the magnetic force balance within the rotor to achieve the absolute silence. To further achieve the absolute silence, the fan is equipped with the Linear drive IC for reducing electromagnetic noise.

Outstanding Long Life of 150,000 Hours

S-FLEX™ is SONY corp. patented bearing technology.
120mm Fan with 150,000 hrs long life

MTBF: 150,000 hours
* MTBF of normal ball bearing Fan: 50,000 hours
* MTBF of normal sleeve bearing Fan: 20,000 hours

* S-FLEX™ is registered trademark of SONY Corp.


SFF21D 120x120x25mm 800rpm ((((8.7dBA)))) 33.5CFM 0.10A 12V 840556025443


FAN LINK (http://www.coolerguys.com/sff21.html)

HH

gosurf,

Yes I do. I have about 8-9 inches above it and about 2" on each side. There will also be space behind it as the shelf that it's gona sit on is only 20" deep and I'll have it all the way to the front. There will be no doors or anything like that, so it will get plenty of air to it.... And of course, I will have 6" X 1.5" slots cut out of the backs of the shelves for wires to pass through and extra heat exhaust too.

You think that will suffice? or should I go ahead and order at least 1 more fan?....

I'm attaching a pic of the concept pic I did for the unit........

Thanks......DMAN

ok,,,,not sure if the pic uploaded or not, so i'll try it again here......


DMAN

Hi all
It is my first post here I believe and I need some advice on cabinet cooling.
I have cabinet with glass door at front. Inside Pioneer 917 AV receiver and it is cooking everything there. I cannot even touch it when it is hot.
So Reading this forum I decided to add some fans at the back of the cabinet.

First I bought Thermaltake Silent CAT 120mm Case Fan. It is

Noise Level: 16 dBA Air Flow: 63.5 CFM

Pretty good. It works well from 12V/1A DC adapter.
but it is White and this is the problem.

So I decided to go with 2 S-FLEX coolers 800 rpm, 8.7 bBA and also 60+ CFM in total for both.

These looks solid and are black
But the problem is that when I connect it ito DC adapter coller starts making high pitch sound and it is very loud.
I connected it to PC connector and it works perfectly. so the problem is now in DC adapter.
But why those other cooler works ok? How can I plug this S-FLEX into the wall? Should I keep purchasing DC adapters and try them untill I find one working?

Thanks