i called philips tech suport they told me CLICKING NOISE when TV off is normal
all 42PF7320/37 7220/37 HAS THE SAME SYMTOM according to Philips Tech guy

You mean, 2 clicks and then one more, and the screen slightly glows in between? I have it every day at 6:51am with my 7630A. It it true? And what do they say it is doing while clicking?

I just checked out Episode III chapter 9 and I did not lose the picture. I do have the 4:3 format version (darn it!), so perhaps the different version makes a difference.

I think it is safe to say that this surely is not an individual set defect, but a model defect (if you want to call it that). I think everyone that experiences this, needs to contact Philips to complain so that they can fix it with the firmware (hopefully). I have not experienced the dropped picture in over a week now. If once a week or less, I can live with it. It scared me at first, but since it is not frequent at all (at least for now), I am not worried or bothered by it anymore.


I replaced the DVD player (Panasonic DVD S29 (manufactured in Oct 2005) currently connected to the TV with my older DVD player (SD K510) and played Star Wars III (wide screen version). The scene where the screen usually goes blank and audio disappears for 5 seconds PLAYED FULLY. This leads me to suspect that the TV 'shuts down' when certain signals are received by the TV. What specific signals? I do not know. Could this be another reason to believe that it is a firmware issue rather than defect in the TV?

Nerdzoo,

that sort of makes me believe that what is happening is that when an unusual or strange signal is received by the TV, it goes blank. I know I get periodic sound loss from my cable. I do not run the sound through the TV, but straight to my receiver. I will get little half second or longer sound drop-outs (that when I back the DVR up, the sound drop is still there. (ie, it is happening either in the cable box or before...not after). My guess is that the same sort of thing may be happening with the picture. While the DVR does record the picture straight through, maybe there is a glitch or something that sends a strange signal to the TV, that the TV can't handle and goes blank.

WHo knows.

(3) always happens once while watching Star Wars III (always the same spot -beginning of chapter 9 - each time movie is played)

I have this movie on DVD. I will try and see if I can reproduce the problem.

Ok, I am getting close to being out of the break-in phase and want to calibrate the TV to look as good as it can. It actually looks pretty darn good to me (maybe I am jsut used to it now) with the settings all below 50%. I only saw one post in this thread with personal settings. What did everyone else end up with on settings. I am tempted to get the Avia (is that right?) DVD to help, but was wondering if it is really needed. Or if there was an alternative on the market.

Anybody buy this around Black Friday when they were offering the $200 dollar rebate? Anybody recieve it yet? Thanks.

Tiga

Has anyone who owns this TV game on it? I was reading on the 42PF9630A/37 one and heard some complaints on having some lag when playing games. That can be a deal breaker for me, because plan to use it for my xbox360.
No problems with a standard xbox hooked up via component

WOW..after reading all the posts i am nervous about buying the 50pf7220a from costco on jan 23(400.00 kiss). i am looking for the best bang for the buck. i really haven't read many positive posts only complaints. i have compared this set with the vizio at costco and would be satisfied with either one. the price is about the same, however the phillips set offers many more features. is there anybody out there who is satisfied with their purchase of the phillips. i have read all of the vizio's posts and the have there share of concerns but they also have a good share of praise. i also read the posts from the pf9630a guys and they seemed to want to separate themselves from the pf7320a buyers. even the panny people get along no matter what they have purchased within the panny family. so my basic question is : am i foolish to consider purhasing a 50pf7220a?

I really have been very happy with my 7220 from costco. The only issue I can say that I really have had is the black screen (picture drop out) and over the three weeks I have had it, I have only seen it twice and not at all in almost two full weeks. I think you will find that people are going to more apt to post questions and comments about issues of trouble than praise on a site like this. What good does it do us all to sit around and say how great it is. This site is really a support site wouldn't you say? While I agree that the negative comments and issues do raise a concern, I think it is safe to say that most people are very happy with this TV. I do not hesitate to recommend you to buy it.

I've had my 42PF7320A since mid October. I can honestly say I have no issues with this TV at all. I immediately upgraded the firmware to the most current version on Phillips website.

I “broke” the TV in by watching the first 100 hours or more at 50% brightness and 50% contrast. It definitely compromises the picture quality, but from what read it helps the phosphors break in better and potential prevent burn in (since it is most susceptible during the first 100 hours).

I had some issues with my cable company (cablevision) with the cable card at first, but it was b/c they were giving me a Scientific Atlanta card that didn't have the most current firmware on it and it would work properly. Once I got in touch with a higher up tech and he realized the issue, they brought a new card and it works flawlessly now.

I am completely happy with my TV and the picture is amazing.....of course HD is spectacular, but even SD is very good as well (some channels better than others). I get so many complements about how great the picture quality is, and I honestly think it’s the best HDTV out there for the money right now.

I've never experienced any problems with a 5-10 second black out. I only use a digital cable card (no box) and a pioneer DVD player hooked up via component cables.

To wall mount this set, I used the Omni mount U3 Flat..... I then realized I needed to buy the extension ralls (these come with the U3 Tilt model). I only had to install them on one side to get the TV to fit. It was very easy and it came out great.

As I have had a positive experience with this TV so far, I would highly recommend it to anyone who is considering it.

I would also like to add that many of the same issues I have read about here are being discussed on the other thread you mentioned.

I'm very happy with my TV. The picture drop out only happens once a week or so and only for a few seconds. The sound is bad, but I think most people run it through a home theater system anyway. The picture is awesome and it has lots of inputs including 2 HDMI and side inputs. I'd recommend it.

Anybody buy this around Black Friday when they were offering the $200 dollar rebate? Anybody recieve it yet? Thanks.

Tiga

I submitted two rebates online and then by mail. I haven't received those checks yet.
But, it seems that they have gone through:

Rebate: $200.00 Rebate Check
Rebate Information For: 16975XXXX
Promotion: Receive a $200 Mail-In Rebate When You Purchase a Phillips 42PF7320A Plasma TV at Circuit City
Submission Type: ON-LINE
Status Date: 12-30-2005
Status Detail: Your rebate has been entered and is scheduled for final processing.

Rebate: $49.99 Rebate Check
Rebate Information For: 16975XXXX
Promotion: $49.99 Mail-In Rebate With Your WEB Purchase of 24" or Larger TV's $399 and up AND Delivery at circuitcity.com ***Web-Only***
Submission Type: ON-LINE
Status Date: 01-04-2006
Status Detail: Your rebate has been entered and is scheduled for final processing.

http://www.ccityrebates.com/promocenter/circuitcity/promo_search.html

Program IDs are PW03K and PL008
:)

GREAT.....it is reassuring that there are satisfied 7320a owners.......i am pulling the trigger on jan 23 for the 50pf7220 at costco. i spent a least 2 hrs recently at costco comparing and my consensus is that is one fine picture. next to it was a 42 pioneer and i saw no difference. yes the black case is very attractive but the picture is the important aspect. i will be hooking it up via time warner. any suggestions as to which receiver i should request? also, my wife won a sony dav-x1 2.1 surround system i hope that this will be adequate since it incorporates a dvd to it. now i can't wait for the challenge of hooking everthing up. chime in with what cables will be necessary to complete my mission. thanks to all

I don't think you will be disappointed. I toyed with the idea of getting the 50" but the misses and I agreed that for our room, the 42" was plenty big and worth the savings of $500. But I sit there and watch it and often think, "hmmmm, I wonder if I would have been better with the 50 inch?" But there is not THAT huge of a difference in overall size, so I am happy. We went from a 27" where I watched wide format movies in a box that was probably 1/4 the size of what we are seeing now. So I am pleased.

As far as picture quality, when I initially saw this set at CC, I thought the image was awesome in comparison to other sets. then I went to Costco and saw it and it looked horrible. So i played with the settings in the store (using the side buttons) and made it look SO much better. The store employees actually commented on how much better it looked. I told them that they should adjust all their sets to make them more marketable. Anyway, if you thought the image looked good in the store, wait until you get home and make your own adjustments. You will be amazed.

I have the Scientific Atlanta HD 8300 box from Time Warner. As far as I know, it is the only one they offer in my area (Houston). I am amazed at the difference in PQ from SD to HD. SD looks like it always did (just bigger now) but HD is outstanding. I use component video cables based on my readings of the problems with the HDMI technology. I can not see a single bit of difference in PQ between the two and I have had better signal connections (no strange screens and fuzziness when transitioning inputs) using the component.

I got this set in December and I absolutely love it. I've not had one problem with it, and the HD PQ is unbelievable. Also, my digital SD channnels through Time Warner look fantastic as well.

I use it for my Xbox 360 as well and I haven't experienced any lag at all. I've played Madden, Need For Speed, Call of Duty, etc, not had any problems.

My buddy was over recently and he was also impressed. He's got a 50-some inch Loewe and said if he was buying all over again (he paid like $5,000) he would get this panel instead. So I highly recommend it . I couldn't be happier with it.

Only downsides are the built-in speakers. They're pretty bad and mine rattled until I tightened the screws, but I've since gotten a surround system so I obviously don't use the TV speakers anymore anyway.

I'm pretty sure it supports VGA. You'll need to use a vga -> 5 rca adapter.

I think this would work http://www.tkk.fi/Misc/Electronics/circuits/vga2bnc.gif

so 3horns, you do not use a hdmi cable to mate your 8300hd with the monitor?

WOW..after reading all the posts i am nervous about buying the 50pf7220a from costco on jan 23(400.00 kiss). i am looking for the best bang for the buck. i really haven't read many positive posts only complaints. i have compared this set with the vizio at costco and would be satisfied with either one. the price is about the same, however the phillips set offers many more features. is there anybody out there who is satisfied with their purchase of the phillips. i have read all of the vizio's posts and the have there share of concerns but they also have a good share of praise. i also read the posts from the pf9630a guys and they seemed to want to separate themselves from the pf7320a buyers. even the panny people get along no matter what they have purchased within the panny family. so my basic question is : am i foolish to consider purhasing a 50pf7220a?
go for it. you have nothing to lose. buying from costco you can't go wrong. i bought the 42pf9630a and i love it. costco has that 400 deal going for the fifty and i think i will jump on that one as well. it well work great in the other room. hey, the 96 guys invite your input as well. the only difference is the amblight for the most part. it's all the same family.

so 3horns, you do not use a hdmi cable to mate your 8300hd with the monitor?

No I do not use an HDMI. I did have one but after reading discussions on this site and looking for myself, the PQ was as good with the component and the response time was much faster with the component and no periodic errors from the cable box telling me that my TV was not HDCP compatable...which it is. I took the cable back to the store and bought an extra set of components for my DVD player and have a great PQ.

What is the difference between the Philips 50" 7320 and the 7220 that is available at Costco?
Thanks

I believe from what I have read is that they are the exact same panel but just different model #. I bought the 42" 7220 from costco and the manual is the 7320 manual. When you are on the philips site, if you select the 7220, it takes you to the 7320.

I just check Philips website for 42PF7220A/37 model. They have 1.0.13 firmware
http://www2.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/dcbint/cpindex.pl?slg=ENG&cat=FLAT_TV_CA&sct=PLASMA_LARGE_32_42_SU&grp=TV_GR&session=20060113151834_66.35.226.228&ctn=42PF7220A/37&mid=Link_Software&hlt=Link_Software
Is it new firmware just release? I remember my firmware is 1.0.8. I'll check it tonight. Anyone tries this firmware yet?

It appears to be new. Here is what the info says:

BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441
Following problems are solved :
• handling of 5-digit subchannel numbers
• Picture quality: occasional green borders
Following changes are introduced :
• selective filtering of scrambled channels during automatic installation

BX23U-1.0.11.0_01171
Following problem is solved :
• Philips DTV got exception reset when waking up for download with Cable card setup
• Philips DTV switching channel while recording during download with OTA+Cable box

BX23U-1.0.11.0_01161
Following problem is solved :
• The Guide not preserving data at shutdown

BX23U-1.0.10.0_01151
Following problems are solved :
• Set doesn't wake up for download

BX23U-1.0.9.0 00851
Addition of feature :
• Gemstar feature has been added to the release. This has to be used for Gemstar Model Approval
Following problem is fixed:
• POD card movement detection has been made more robust.

Look like they didn't release intermediate release (1.0.9, 1.0.10, and 1.0.11). New interesting feature added is Gemstar feature. I wonder if it's for OTA or CableCard

Where did you see the new firmware? I just checked the website and the most recent firmware listed for the 42PF7320A/37 is still the 1.0.8.0


Harper

I used the link from above as I too did not find it going through the site. I downloaded it and installed it on my panel. It now shows the update. Granted, I can not tell any difference in performance or anything, but none of those fixes seemed like problems I had experienced. But it is updated all the same.

What is the difference between the Philips 50" 7320 and the 7220 that is available at Costco?
Thanks

When I was checking out the 7320 Philips TV at Sears and CC, I was told that the 7220 model was last year's model. If this is true, other than this, I do not know what features are different between the two models. Does the 7220 have PIP feature?

What is the difference between the Philips 50" 7320 and the 7220 that is available at Costco?
Thanks
I read somewhere that the sets are identical but the numbers indicate which countries they're sold in (both sold in USA).

I am brand spanking new here.

is the 320a the 2005 model
I think I'm going to order this this weekend.

I plan to use it with a DVD player Xbox and DirectTV. I hope that all works.
Do I need to get any special gear to watch OTA HD with an HDTV?

Thanks

I read somewhere that the sets are identical but the numbers indicate which countries they're sold in (both sold in USA).

I believe that 7220 is the same, just a designation that it is sold through Costco.

Maybe Philips builds it better since they know that customers can take it back. :)

I am brand spanking new here.

is the 320a the 2005 model
I think I'm going to order this this weekend.

I plan to use it with a DVD player Xbox and DirectTV. I hope that all works.
Do I need to get any special gear to watch OTA HD with an HDTV?

Thanks


With this model just an antenna to pick up the OTA HD signals. Having a built-in tuner is sweet.

Tiga

Well, after 4 months of tweeking and not being happy with the slight red push on the HDMI input, I gave up on the Maxent. Took it back to Costco and bought a Philips for just a bit more money. Well worth it! The Phillips 42PF7220A/37 has more features and a noticably better picture on both HD and SD content. I bought the Philips before I took back the Maxent so that I could compare using the exact same cable box setup. Since the Philips has a built in tuner and is cable card ready, I'm just waiting on comcast to bring me a card, then I can move the stb back to my rear projection tv.
This is really a nice Plasma for the money. Has anyone had any difficulty with the firmware upgrade? I tried a sandisk mini cruser and even made sure to format it FAT. TV recognized the flash drive but doesn't find the firmware upgrade.....

Look like they didn't release intermediate release (1.0.9, 1.0.10, and 1.0.11). New interesting feature added is Gemstar feature. I wonder if it's for OTA or CableCard OTA always, and cable card sometimes - check first with your provider, or better yet, check your local cable HDTV thread on this forum.

I'm a total newbie when it comes to plasma tv's so if this is something well known please accept my apology in advance. I've noticed sometimes a part of an image stays on the screen even when I change channels. Its not burn-in because it goes away and i'm always aware not to keep the same image on the screen for a long time. For example, I noticed part of the tivo menu can still be seen when I switch the tivo off or switch to inputs that have no signal. I've noticed the same thing with xbox but strangely haven't noticed it with Xbox 360 yet. It always seems to dissappear eventually and it can't be seen at all when i'm watching TV or playing a video game. Its only seen when theres no signal to the input its on. Is this something I should be concerned about? :confused:

Also, i've noticed no burn-in protection options in the menu. Anyone know if this has any type of burn-in protection?

I'm new here and bought my 7320 about 2-3 weeks ago. The cable company just installed the cable card on Thursday. Wow, what a picture! I have also had the black screen maybe 3 times. Two times when the cable was hooked directly to the tv and another with the cable card. Hopefully this will be fixed with a firmware upgrade. I purchased mine at SAMS Wholesale because the Costcos in the area couldn't keep them in stock. Also, the sound on mine isn't as bad as everyone has described so maybe their getting better. Mine was built in Nov. 2005

I'm very happy with my TV. The picture drop out only happens once a week or so and only for a few seconds. The sound is bad, but I think most people run it through a home theater system anyway. The picture is awesome and it has lots of inputs including 2 HDMI and side inputs. I'd recommend it.

Out of curiousity 5bassman, could you tell me what cable company you have and which brand cablecard you have working? My install yesterday was not as successful as yours.

I'm using Cablevision. The installer tried 2 different Scientific Atlantic cards and the TV would not detect either of them. The TV came already with the latest firmware version. Not sure about the cablecard version.

I am brand spanking new here.

is the 320a the 2005 model
I think I'm going to order this this weekend.

I plan to use it with a DVD player Xbox and DirectTV. I hope that all works.
Do I need to get any special gear to watch OTA HD with an HDTV?

Thanks

All you need for OTA reception is an antenna. If you are far from the transmitter, an outside antenna is recommended. That's it.

Cheers

I just purchased the 42PF7220 from Costco. The peerless mount they have listed as a "recomended product" does not work...it is not wide enough. Looks like the Omnimount U3 is the one to find. TV looks great by the way. The sound does not seem as bad as I was expecting...not great just not that bad.

I contacted Peerless Industries regarding the mount. They said that it was OK to use the inner table top stand bolt holes for the mount and that it would work. The Peerless rep said that Philips gave them the OK. Being skeptical, I contacted Philips. The representative said that it was OK and that they had 10 TVs there that were mounted this way. I said...so if something bad happens, I can call you back (using my reference number) and you'll take care of me...he said absolutely no problem.

Out of curiousity 5bassman, could you tell me what cable company you have and which brand cablecard you have working? My install yesterday was not as successful as yours.

I'm using Cablevision. The installer tried 2 different Scientific Atlantic cards and the TV would not detect either of them. The TV came already with the latest firmware version. Not sure about the cablecard version.
I have Comcast cable. I wasn't here when he came but it looks like it might say Motorola?

It appears to be new. Here is what the info says:


BX23U-1.0.11.0_01161
Following problem is solved :
• The Guide not preserving data at shutdown

BX23U-1.0.10.0_01151
Following problems are solved :
• Set doesn't wake up for download

BX23U-1.0.9.0 00851
Addition of feature :
• Gemstar feature has been added to the release. This has to be used for Gemstar Model Approval
Following problem is fixed:
• POD card movement detection has been made more robust.

Has anyone tried the added Gemstar Guide feature after upgrading the software? How well does it work?

Thanks in advance.

I just purchased the 42PF7220 from Costco. The peerless mount they have listed as a "recomended product" does not work...it is not wide enough. Looks like the Omnimount U3 is the one to find. TV looks great by the way. The sound does not seem as bad as I was expecting...not great just not that bad.

Can you verify that you have Costco's Peerless DFPT420S model? This is the model they are shipping in last week's online special.

Has anyone had a problem upgrading their firmware. I am using a Sony memory device formatted FAT and the TV scans and finds the device but cannot locate the file. I have made sure that the firmware upgrade is the only file on the storage media. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
CD

Can you verify that you have Costco's Peerless DFPT420S model? This is the model they are shipping in last week's online special.

That is the one. The lady at Peerless said it was the retail package version of the 660. Great price at Costco.
It has been holding since this morning. Seems solid enough. You have to re-use the screws that hold the table top things in place. The ones in the peerless kit are close but seem to be to big. The ones holding the mounts on are long...so I ended up using about 4 washers. You also have to use a "star" driver. I also used the very bottom table top mount holes (three total each side). For those screws, since they are so long, I used two of the plastic bushings that come with the mount.

Can you verify that you have Costco's Peerless DFPT420S model? This is the model they are shipping in last week's online special.

Besure to see my second post regarding the Costco mount. It works using the table top mounting holes...both confirmed by Peerless and Philips to be OK.

Besure to see my second post regarding the Costco mount. It works using the table top mounting holes...both confirmed by Peerless and Philips to be OK.

Thanks for the great responses! If this mount was somewhat challenging to use on the 42-inch philips plasma I assume it may be worse for the 50-inch. Anyone know? The specs say this mount supports 32" to 63" flat screens up to 200lbs.

Has anyone had a problem upgrading their firmware. I am using a Sony memory device formatted FAT and the TV scans and finds the device but cannot locate the file. I have made sure that the firmware upgrade is the only file on the storage media. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
CD


Mine upgraded no problem.

Before this latest update, I had the same issue (response from the TV). It said that it could not find any files on the drive (or something like that). But with this latest update, I plugged in the drive, manually turned the TV on and it worked. I assume my issue before was that there was not any info newer than what was on the tv, so it said that it could not find any files. Who knows. But it worked with the latest update.

I'm new ot this I noticed on the back of hte TV just above AV3 there is "Digital Audio In" What uses that. I'm not familiar with that I don't think that my cable box, xbox or DVD player have that. I assume it goes with the Compnent cables just below it. Any one know how its used?

I'm new ot this I noticed on the back of hte TV just above AV3 there is "Digital Audio In" What uses that. I'm not familiar with that I don't think that my cable box, xbox or DVD player have that. I assume it goes with the Compnent cables just below it. Any one know how its used?

It's used if your are connecting to the HDMI connection with a DVI source (DVI does not carry audio). I have to use it to connect my Dish 811 receiver to the HDMI.

Tiga

I have Comcast cable. I wasn't here when he came but it looks like it might say Motorola?

Okay, thanks.

Looks like I'll have to stick with a STB for now.

It's used if your are connecting to the HDMI connection with a DVI source (DVI does not carry audio). I have to use it to connect my Dish 811 receiver to the HDMI.

Tiga

Hmm this is a little confusing. How do I get sound if I use the component cables in AV3?

Hmm this is a little confusing. How do I get sound if I use the component cables in AV3?


I believe you can use the digital audio for that as well. You have to assign it in the setup menu.

Have any of you been using any of the factory settings at all or have you adjusted to your preference. I keep messing with mine. Anyone care to share their settings? Anyone use Avia to calibrate and how did it turn out? Thanks.

Tiga

What is the difference between the Philips 50" 7320 and the 7220 that is available at Costco?
Thanks

Messing with the new set...I noticed something that might be a significant (for some) difference. In my manual (for my 7220) it specifically states that the remote can NOT be programmed for other devices (CBL, DVR etc)....yet on the Philips web site in the FAQ for the 7320 it shows how to program the remote. With two little kids at home, I have not had a chance to persue it further. Anyone else see it this way? I know most people use universal type remotes so this probably won't be a deal killer. It is just annoying to have to use one remote to change the cable box and one to change the volume.

BTW...I was at Costco yesterday and they had a photo of a peerless wall mount near the TV...it was different than the one I got from costco.com. It appeared to be skinnear near the center with much longer rods that stuck out the side. From the looks of it it appeared that you might actually be able to use the outer bolt holes. Unfortunately they did not have any on the floor and there was not a model number associated with the picture of the mount. I have not seen this on peerless's web site yet so it might be something new.

I too noticed this with the remote. I printed instructions on how to do it off the website, but like you said, my manual says that it can't be done. And the steps for trying it did not work. HOWEVER, if I recall correctly, my manual IS the 7320 (while my panel is the 7220). So not 100% that the info on the website is accurate. I need to check my manual at home to see if it is indeed a 7220 or 7320 manual.

I've found the new firmware is available on Philips web site, which has not been
announced officially.

The one on the 7320A/37 production/support page is still the old one: 1.0.8 (42pf7320a_37_fus_aen.zip).

But, I found a link to the new firmware file in the same folder.

42pf7320a_37_fus_aen.zip --- 1.0.8 (American English ?)
42pf7320a_37_fus_eng.zip --- 1.0.13 (U.K. English ?)


http://www.p4c.philips.com/na4/4/42pf7320a_37/42pf7320a_37_fus_eng.zip

This new firmware file and the one released on 7220A website recently have the
same MD5 checksum.

Hope Philips will officially release 1.0.13 (7320A/37) soon.

Has anyone had any difficulty with the firmware upgrade? I tried a sandisk mini cruser and even made sure to format it FAT. TV recognized the flash drive but doesn't find the firmware upgrade.....

Did you put autorun.upg file to the root directory of your drive?
The zip file doesn't work.

How large is your drive?

Have any of you been using any of the factory settings at all or have you adjusted to your preference. I keep messing with mine. Anyone care to share their settings? Anyone use Avia to calibrate and how did it turn out? Thanks.

Tiga

I tweaked my settings using the Avia, it worked really well. I will get you my settings posted tomorrow. It makes all the difference in the world, HD looks 2x better once calibrated than any of the factory settings.

CD

I tweaked my settings using the Avia, it worked really well. I will get you my settings posted tomorrow. It makes all the difference in the world, HD looks 2x better once calibrated than any of the factory settings.

CD


Great! Thanks.

I'd like to see those settings too. I tried to use the Sound and Vision DVD, but I found it pretty much useless. I am tempted to get the Avia, but will wait to see what settings are posted here.

Did you put autorun.upg file to the root directory of your drive?
The zip file doesn't work.

How large is your drive?
I used the same thumbdrive as you did and it was no problem. Make sure the firmware is all that is on there. Turn TV off, insert, then turn it on on the side of the TV.

I've found the new firmware is available on Philips web site, which has not been
announced officially.

The one on the 7320A/37 production/support page is still the old one: 1.0.8 (42pf7320a_37_fus_aen.zip).

But, I found a link to the new firmware file in the same folder.
This new firmware file and the one released on 7220A website recently have the
same MD5 checksum.

Hope Philips will officially release 1.0.13 (7320A/37) soon.
I downloaded this firmware on mine yesterday.

QAM / Autoprogramming question - I recently purchase the 7220 from Costco and find that when i perform an autoprogam (i.e. scan for channels), I pick up a bunch of movie channels but after the show is over, the channel is unavailable. To search for new channels, I have to go through the entire autoprogram again to find more movie channels, and this process takes 10-15 minutes. Have any of you figured out a way to scan one channel to see if there are subchannels available, or improve scan time?

For example, under my channel 118, every time i perform an autoprogram scan, I get 118.49 and 118.96. Those are movie channels which I lose once the movie is over. If i then perform a new scan, I get 118.32 and 118.67. How can I scan 118 again without going through the autoprogram? My buddy owns a Panasonic TH-42PX50U and he can do this. He goes to 118.49, it says "channel unavailable", he see snow, then he punches in 118 again and it gets to new channels under 118. Somehow, it scans one channel immediately.

Any insight? Is there a software upgrade?

3 horns / Tiga

Here are the settings that I ended up with, these may change based on your room size, amount of light in the room etc...

Contrast 73
Brightness 61
Color 73
Sharpness 2
Color temp - Warm
Tint 5

I find the picture is exceptional with these settings with my room conditions. It really does make a difference over the factory settings.

CD

does the 42pf7320/7220 have the 2:3 pulldown feature?

3 horns / Tiga

Here are the settings that I ended up with, these may change based on your room size, amount of light in the room etc...

Contrast 73
Brightness 61
Color 73
Sharpness 2
Color temp - Warm
Tint 5

I find the picture is exceptional with these settings with my room conditions. It really does make a difference over the factory settings.

CD

Wow that contrast seems really high. Same with brightness, although not as much. But I will punch these in when I get home just to see!

I have raised my contrast level as high as in the mid 80s and it looked really good. My concern is what this does to the lifespan of the panel. I have read that high brigthness and contrast settings can reduce the life. Does anyone have any specific knowledge on this? I will also try these settings. I think I need to get the Avia DVD probably, but I want to see these first.

Thanks for the post CD

Does the 42pf7320a/37 have an image orbiter feature? I can't find any info on these.

Did you put autorun.upg file to the root directory of your drive?
The zip file doesn't work.

How large is your drive?

Everest:
Drive was plenty large, I tried the link you posted on the newer firmware and it worked like a charm. I suspect that my TV already had the latest firmware loaded so it simply didn't recognize it. Kind of odd tho, I would think that it would have given me a message that I had the latest firmware instead of telling me that it couldn't find any firmware upgrade on the drive. ( i guess upgrade is the key there)
Thanks for your help. I'm having Comcast install a cable card this afternoon and I wanted to make sure I had the very latest firmware since I have read here that some have had issues with cable cards.

Using a calibration dvd, I found the optimal brightness is closer to 50, but with Contrast, I seemed to be able to crank it up pretty high before noticing any blooming. I certainly don't have an expert eye for the settings... in fact, I always have a hard time with the Hue and Saturation calibrations as well as Contrast. Brightness and sharpness are easier (for me).

One thing that bugs me about this set is that if you tweak the presets for picture, it makes that your Personal setting. :(


Harper

3 horns / Tiga

Here are the settings that I ended up with, these may change based on your room size, amount of light in the room etc...

Contrast 73
Brightness 61
Color 73
Sharpness 2
Color temp - Warm
Tint 5

I find the picture is exceptional with these settings with my room conditions. It really does make a difference over the factory settings.

CD


Thanks CD - I'll punch those in tonight. Just curious - Did you make any adjustments in the service menu? Sometimes I think my picture has too much red and I thought I read that you can turn it down in the service menu. Not even sure how to get into it. I've been using the Cool temperature setting and it has helped some. Thanks again for posting these.

Tiga

Thanks CD - I'll punch those in tonight. Just curious - Did you make any adjustments in the service menu? Sometimes I think my picture has too much red and I thought I read that you can turn it down in the service menu. Not even sure how to get into it. I've been using the Cool temperature setting and it has helped some. Thanks again for posting these.

Tiga
Speaking of service menu ... does anyone know how to access it?

Everest:
Drive was plenty large, I tried the link you posted on the newer firmware and it worked like a charm. I suspect that my TV already had the latest firmware loaded so it simply didn't recognize it. Kind of odd tho, I would think that it would have given me a message that I had the latest firmware instead of telling me that it couldn't find any firmware upgrade on the drive. ( i guess upgrade is the key there)
Thanks for your help. I'm having Comcast install a cable card this afternoon and I wanted to make sure I had the very latest firmware since I have read here that some have had issues with cable cards.

I have heard of the same thing on either this thread or 9630A thread:

TV does not run firmware upgrade if the same version has already been installed.

It's a good feature though. Philips should document this. TV should display a warning
message at least.

Speaking of service menu ... does anyone know how to access it?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6696918&highlight=062596#post6696918

Thanks CD - I'll punch those in tonight. Just curious - Did you make any adjustments in the service menu? Sometimes I think my picture has too much red and I thought I read that you can turn it down in the service menu. Not even sure how to get into it. I've been using the Cool temperature setting and it has helped some. Thanks again for posting these.

Tiga


I was rethinking my earlier response and I watch my set in a mostly dim room - so a lot of brightness / contrast is too much. I suppose calibration is gonna vary a lot depending on what our lighting conditions are.

The "natural" preset seems closest to me in terms of non-tweaked.

My colors seem ok all the time except for that "multimedia" setting, wowo.

I was rethinking my earlier response and I watch my set in a mostly dim room - so a lot of brightness / contrast is too much. I suppose calibration is gonna vary a lot depending on what our lighting conditions are.

The "natural" preset seems closest to me in terms of non-tweaked.

My colors seem ok all the time except for that "multimedia" setting, wowo.

I think the natural setting isn't too bad either. I watch mine mainly in a dim room as well (evenings). A few days ago I set it to Eco mode which I always thought was way too dim. I barely notched up the brightness and down the color and it isn't too bad. It's almost as if my eyes adjusted to it and now it seems pretty good. Haven't watched it it mid-day with a lot of sunlight yet so we'll see.

Anyone using the dynamic contrast, noise reduction and active control at all? I've found that the active control tends to make the picture worse on some channels - especially if you set it to Maximum. A lot of false contouring. I've never seen any real affect with the noise reduction until this weekend. I watched the Steeler game with my OTA antenna (as the picture is just better than the local Dish stations). It seems that these adjustments really made a difference with OTA signal versus what comes through the dish receiver. Improved it quite a bit actually. Weird.

Messing with the new set...I noticed something that might be a significant (for some) difference. In my manual (for my 7220) it specifically states that the remote can NOT be programmed for other devices (CBL, DVR etc)....yet on the Philips web site in the FAQ for the 7320 it shows how to program the remote. With two little kids at home, I have not had a chance to persue it further. Anyone else see it this way? I know most people use universal type remotes so this probably won't be a deal killer. It is just annoying to have to use one remote to change the cable box and one to change the volume.

My parents picked up this unit yesterday from Costco (42"). I noticed that the manual says it can't be done, but that just doesn't seem right since the top of the remote has options for controlling the vcr, dvd player, etc.

Anyone have any success getting the remote to work with other items?

I contacted Peerless Industries regarding the mount. They said that it was OK to use the inner table top stand bolt holes for the mount and that it would work. The Peerless rep said that Philips gave them the OK.

Yep, same thing I was told when I called mountsandmore. Mine has been hanging for 3-4 weeks now, no problems. Great price too!

My parents picked up this unit yesterday from Costco (42"). I noticed that the manual says it can't be done, but that just doesn't seem right since the top of the remote has options for controlling the vcr, dvd player, etc.

Anyone have any success getting the remote to work with other items?

I think the remote can only control Philips' own TV, VCR, DVD player... not
other brands.

Two things to comment on:

1) My only complaint about the 7320 is the input selector does not lend itself well to macros on your remote control. In other words, you can't make sure you are always on the HDMI 1 input when you power on, for example, because it depends what input the TV was on previously. Has anyone figured out a way to do this? I guess I could always modify the macro which shuts everything down to put the TV in a known input state before killing the power.

2) Regarding the differences between the 7220 and 7320, the 7220 is definitely the "Costco" model (although I believe mine is a 7320 that I bought from Costco Home and was not as discounted). I heard a rumor that the manufacturers actually use cheaper parts in order to bring the cost down so that places like Costco can sell the products at such a cheap price. I have a hard time believing this because both Costco's and the manufacturer's reputations are at stake. I have noticed in other similar products, however, that some features are removed for the Costco model. The difference in one of the Panny Costco plasma models is the HD tuner was removed, for example. I was just wondering if anyone else had any info on this.

Thanks!

Is there any difference between the pixel plus and pixel plus 2?

I tried using an HDMI connection between my STB and TV. When I turned the TV on, a message on the screen flashed, " The HD Protection of your HDMI has been compromised. Please use Y,Pb,Pr connections"

Does anybody know what this means? How do I regain the HD protection?

Thank you

Rene

Thanks CD - I'll punch those in tonight. Just curious - Did you make any adjustments in the service menu? Sometimes I think my picture has too much red and I thought I read that you can turn it down in the service menu. Not even sure how to get into it. I've been using the Cool temperature setting and it has helped some. Thanks again for posting these.

Tiga


No adjustments to the service menu. I don't think I want to really play around with those settings. Maybe after I am more comfortable.

CD

Here are some settings I've come up with that look good to MY eyes. I did not use a calibration disc or anything like that - just based these on recommendations I've pulled off the forum and what looks good to me.

Contrast 58
Brightness 47
Color 37
Sharpness 3
Color Temp Cool
Digital Processing Pixel Plus
Dynamic Contrast Minimum
DNR Minimum
Color Enhancement ON
Tint -5
Active Control OFF

Now I typically watch my set in a dimly lit room (1 or 2 floor lamps). Turning down the contrast and color may seem too dim at first but I found that my eyes adjusted to it after a little while and now everything seems much more realistic, especially HD. My VOOM and other HD channels look great. Flesh tones seem much more realistic.

I'd be curious to hear how these settings appear to others and hopefully they'll be some recommendations for improvement.

Cheers, Tiga

Heres my settings.. I used the Avia disk.

Contrast: 66
Brightness: 44
Color: 45
Sharpness: 2
Color Temp: Normal
Digital Processing: Pixel Plus
Dynamic Contrast: Medium
DNR: Medium
Color Enhancement: On
Tint: -5
Active Control: Off

Anyone else find "Active Control" to make picture worse on nearly everything? Seems like a rather pointless feature if you ask me.

For those of you thinking of using a cable card. I had comcast come out and install one. The tech said that some brands of TV can be really hard to get the cards to work, he said he has had trouble with some sonys. He had no problem installing on this philips, it just took a while for them to program the card from comcast once it was in. It works great and I think the picture on SD and HD actually improved slightly over the DVI to HDMI cable I was using on the STB.

Anyone else find "Active Control" to make picture worse on nearly everything? Seems like a rather pointless feature if you ask me.


I agree completely. The only time I noticed a slight improvement with it was watching a game OTA with my antenna. Every other signal I put in looks worse with this feature. It seems to add a lot of false contouring.

Thanks for the settings. I'll give them a shot tonight and see how it looks. I wonder how much the settings vary from set to set or would two TV's with the same settings look exactly the same?

Tiga

I had some issues with my cable company (cablevision) with the cable card at first, but it was b/c they were giving me a Scientific Atlanta card that didn't have the most current firmware on it and it would work properly. Once I got in touch with a higher up tech and he realized the issue, they brought a new card and it works flawlessly now.
Out of curiousity 5bassman, could you tell me what cable company you have and which brand cablecard you have working? My install yesterday was not as successful as yours.

I'm using Cablevision. The installer tried 2 different Scientific Atlantic cards and the TV would not detect either of them. The TV came already with the latest firmware version. Not sure about the cablecard version.

I'm using Time Warner and I've tried two different Motorola cards and neither of them work. Whenever I plug it in, it loses all signals and all I get is a black screen. Not even any analog signals come in. Could it be the cablecard that is at fault (not compatible or old firmware) or is it the tv (like a setting change or reset or something?)

I'm using Time Warner and I've tried two different Motorola cards and neither of them work. Whenever I plug it in, it loses all signals and all I get is a black screen. Not even any analog signals come in. Could it be the cablecard that is at fault (not compatible or old firmware) or is it the tv (like a setting change or reset or something?)

Guys, you may want to try the firmware link posted by Everest. I uploaded it prior to the install, don't know for sure that it helped but it does mention cable cards on the install notes and the first thing the tech asked me is if I had the very latest firmware. The Comcast tech, using a motorola card, told me that a lot of techs have trouble getting them installed. He said it is usually not the card. His opinion was that some brands don't read cards well and that some installers don't get the card seated correctly in the TV.
On another note, I asked him about keeping the settings low during the first 100 hours, he said I should do that to properly break in the Plasma. He also told me that the only case of burn in that he has ever seen was on a set where the guy went out of town for a week and left CNN on, burning in the screen logo. For what it's worth, this tech claimed to have been doing installs for 15 years and seemed to know what he was talking about.........

Hey something else I just thought of, he didn't just power off the TV prior to inserting the card, he unplugged it, installed the card, then plugged the TV back in and powered it back up.

Like many of you, I picked up 7220 at Costco.

I've seen in other threads that there is a danger of burn in when viewing 4:3 mode with black bars on the sides and that ligher colored side bars may help. I like the 4:3 mode in certain cases - I couldn't figure out how to get the 7220 to show gray instead of black, but I found a way to make the STB (SA8320) display light gray when viewing 4:3. My question is: Will this light gray side bar case burn in? Is anyone else trying to view 4:3 that has another solution?

hindsas,

I believe that when I watch using component cables that the bars are grey in SD. I may be wrong. I have messed with so much that I forget what I have done or what happens. I do however use a stretch feature of the cable box to fill the entire screen on SD because burn-in makes me nervous (a little). I find that after about a minute of looking at the stretched screen, I am used to it.

I just bought the 7220 from cc as I couldn't pass up the great price. So far, so good.

A few comments:
* The volume DOES display on screen if you turn on Normal mode under "Menu preferences/OSD". Unfortunately this also leaves the channel on the screen for 10 minutes.

* I was VERY surprised to see that I'm getting HD channels from Comcast even though I don't subscribe. I thought you needed CableCard to get HD over cable. I had previously subscribed to HD from Comcast and recently turned it off in favor of Direct -- maybe they left it on for some reason.

* Does anyone know where to find documentation on the IR outputs? I find it VERY odd that the set comes with an IR flasher cable and yet this is NOT mentioned anywhere that I can find -- not on the printed materials, not on the CD and not on the web.

* I was VERY surprised to see that I'm getting HD channels from Comcast even though I don't subscribe. I thought you needed CableCard to get HD over cable. I had previously subscribed to HD from Comcast and recently turned it off in favor of Direct -- maybe they left it on for some reason.



You don't need a CableCard, but you most certainly need an HD cable box OR CableCard. If you don't have an HD box, you're not getting HD channels.

You are getting HD witout the card or the box. You have the qam tuner and your cable company is likely to be sending the major network HD's unencrypted.
Also, the IR blaster is "leftover" from Philips' original plan to have TV Guide. That was dropped for some reason, but one of the forum members was told it may be added at a later date. So, save the blaster.

It's used if your are connecting to the HDMI connection with a DVI source (DVI does not carry audio). I have to use it to connect my Dish 811 receiver to the HDMI.

Tiga


Tiga - How do you hook up the audio from the 811 to the TV? It looks like the audio OUT from the 811 is the square optical digital audio plug, and the Philips input plug is an RCA type. I can't find a cable that fits both ends, or an adapter. Please describe how this works - I have the 811, and am planning to buy the Philips this week.

FYI, according to the 811 manual, the 811 upconverts all signals (dvd player, etc.), but ONLY if you use the DVI out connection. Have you noticed that? Thanks! - Bob

You are getting HD witout the card or the box. You have the qam tuner and your cable company is likely to be sending the major network HD's unencrypted.
Also, the IR blaster is "leftover" from Philips' original plan to have TV Guide. That was dropped for some reason, but one of the forum members was told it may be added at a later date. So, save the blaster.
Yes, the TV tuner is picking up HD. What's interesting is that Comcast broadcasts junk on the low-numbered channels and the networks are up in the 20s. So on 4, for example, is a junk station. 4.1 is NBC in HD, 4.2 is NBC secondary (weather I think), etc.

I'm surprised Philips still packs the emitters in the box -- seems that they are throwing away $s for no good reason.

Tiga - How do you hook up the audio from the 811 to the TV? It looks like the audio OUT from the 811 is the square optical digital audio plug, and the Philips input plug is an RCA type. I can't find a cable that fits both ends, or an adapter. Please describe how this works - I have the 811, and am planning to buy the Philips this week.

FYI, according to the 811 manual, the 811 upconverts all signals (dvd player, etc.), but ONLY if you use the DVI out connection. Have you noticed that? Thanks! - Bob

Bob, I used an optical to digital converter. You can get them from partsexpress.com. I believe it's part #180-961 and runs around $17. Mine works great.

I'm still running my dvd player to the tv with component cables. I've thought about connecting to the 811 but I wasn't sure if it upconverted or not. Maybe I'll try this tonight and see what gives the better picture. If it upconverts the dvd video signal and improves it over component then that saves me from purchasing an upconverting dvd player plus I can eliminate cables running to the tv. Anyone else tried this?

I'm still running my dvd player to the tv with component cables. I've thought about connecting to the 811 but I wasn't sure if it upconverted or not. Maybe I'll try this tonight and see what gives the better picture. If it upconverts the dvd video signal and improves it over component then that saves me from purchasing an upconverting dvd player plus I can eliminate cables running to the tv. Anyone else tried this?

Update- I just hooked up my VCR and DVD player to the 811 and it works pretty well. Much better picture than going straight to the tv. I must be upconverting because the tv says it's getting a 720p signal. If it isn't then at least it's getting a straight digital signal through dvi.

The receiver won't accept a progressive scan signal from the dvd player though. Probably because the 811 only accepts composite inputs and I think my dvd player will only put out a progressive signal over component. Actually I couldn't tell any difference between 480i and 480p with this tv anyway.

I've noticed I have only two zoom options - automatic and widescreen. When I put it on automatic it seems the picture is stretched ever so slightly vertical. When I'm in widescreen I get black bars on all 4 sides - however the picture quality is better. I'll have to mess around with it some more.

I have my attic antenna running into my vcr and to the TV via coax. I ran composite from the vcr to the 811 and I was able to switch back and forth between TV input and the receiver input and it's easy to see the improvement on SD broadcast channels.

So far so good. Anyone else have experience with this?

Two things to comment on:

1) My only complaint about the 7320 is the input selector does not lend itself well to macros on your remote control. In other words, you can't make sure you are always on the HDMI 1 input when you power on, for example, because it depends what input the TV was on previously. Has anyone figured out a way to do this? I guess I could always modify the macro which shuts everything down to put the TV in a known input state before killing the power.

2) Regarding the differences between the 7220 and 7320, the 7220 is definitely the "Costco" model (although I believe mine is a 7320 that I bought from Costco Home and was not as discounted). I heard a rumor that the manufacturers actually use cheaper parts in order to bring the cost down so that places like Costco can sell the products at such a cheap price. I have a hard time believing this because both Costco's and the manufacturer's reputations are at stake. I have noticed in other similar products, however, that some features are removed for the Costco model. The difference in one of the Panny Costco plasma models is the HD tuner was removed, for example. I was just wondering if anyone else had any info on this.

Thanks!
I bought my 7320 from Costco and Circuit C. had the same model for about $800 more.

Hi, I'm a newbie to this site and am in need of some help from any of you vets out there. I recently bought the 42pf7220a/37 from CostCo a month ago after extended research. I love the set, but have problems during DVD movie playback. I get a ~1" vertical bright green line that runs along the length of the right side of my screen...this occurs as soon as my DVD player menu pops onto the screen!...even though the set autosizes the display to negate the green line, it still tends to creep back into view during playback of certain movies.
So far, I've played Mr. & Mrs. Smith (problem comes and goes during certain parts), Hero (problem is there for most of the movie), and Finding Nemo (problem never goes away). I'm using a Sony DVP-NS7OH upconverting DVD player connected via 3' AR brand HDMI cable. I just upgraded the set's firmware to the BX23U-1.0.13.0 software from the Philips website, but that doesn't seem to solve the problem. I'll contact Philips customer service, but would appreciate any insights on this issue. Does or has anybody else out there run into this problem?

Hi, I'm a newbie to this site and am in need of some help from any of you vets out there. I recently bought the 42pf7220a/37 from CostCo a month ago after extended research. I love the set, but have problems during DVD movie playback. I get a ~1" vertical bright green line that runs along the length of the right side of my screen...this occurs as soon as my DVD player menu pops onto the screen!...even though the set autosizes the display to negate the green line, it still tends to creep back into view during playback of certain movies.
So far, I've played Mr. & Mrs. Smith (problem comes and goes during certain parts), Hero (problem is there for most of the movie), and Finding Nemo (problem never goes away). I'm using a Sony DVP-NS7OH upconverting DVD player connected via 3' AR brand HDMI cable. I just upgraded the set's firmware to the BX23U-1.0.13.0 software from the Philips website, but that doesn't seem to solve the problem. I'll contact Philips customer service, but would appreciate any insights on this issue. Does or has anybody else out there run into this problem?

Simple solution to your problem. While watching your DVD's (nice choice!!), press the right button (next to the OK button) on the remote to move the screen's image to the right till the bar/line disappears off screen. Done :)

Cheers & enjoy your new Plasma!!

I'm thinking about buying the Phillips plasma discussed here but I'm concerned about how to hook my Apple Powerbook laptop to this display. The Powerbook has a DVI output and a S-Video output. I"ve heard the S-Video is okay for displaying video or pictures but text will be blurry. On the other hand I read that there are display problems when trying to connect the DVI output to the HDMI input of the display. Is there a way to get a crisp image using DVI to HDMI on this Phillips?

I'm thinking about buying the Phillips plasma discussed here but I'm concerned about how to hook my Apple Powerbook laptop to this display. The Powerbook has a DVI output and a S-Video output. I"ve heard the S-Video is okay for displaying video or pictures but text will be blurry. On the other hand I read that there are display problems when trying to connect the DVI output to the HDMI input of the display. Is there a way to get a crisp image using DVI to HDMI on this Phillips?


I've had no problems with my powerbook on the tv, although I don't use it all that much. DVI -> HDMI cable. Plug and Play on my part.

I've had no problems with my powerbook on the tv, although I don't use it all that much. DVI -> HDMI cable. Plug and Play on my part.

Thanks, that is good to know. I was hoping that the DVI->HDMI connection would work okay. BTW, it the text reasonably readable when displayed from your powerbook on the plasma display?

Simple solution to your problem. While watching your DVD's (nice choice!!), press the right button (next to the OK button) on the remote to move the screen's image to the right till the bar/line disappears off screen. Done :)

Cheers & enjoy your new Plasma!!
Hey AstroSaberIII, thanks a bunch for answering my stupid question...I tried your fix and it did the trick!...so that's what those arrows are for on the controller huh?----DUH!...now I can enjoy my DVD's w/o worrying if something's wrong w/my plasma!...I really appreciate the help. :)

Hey AstroSaberIII, thanks a bunch for answering my stupid question...I tried your fix and it did the trick!...so that's what those arrows are for on the controller huh?----DUH!...now I can enjoy my DVD's w/o worrying if something's wrong w/my plasma!...I really appreciate the help. :)

Don't feel bad, same thing happened to me. Hooked up the Xbox to watch a movie, and same bright line :eek: Thought I had a broken new Plasma.

It's sad when such a simple fix like pressing a button 2 or 3 times, and the technical support from the company doesn't even know the simple fix. Imagine when you call with a real problem - that's scarry

It appears that most, if not all 7320's have their image pushed all the way to the left as factory default.

I currently have a non-HD Directivo connected via S-video to my plasma. The cable i'm using is a monster cable model "ULTV1000SV8 Ultra Series THX 1000". I can't help but notice the poor quality of the signal. Anyone use this same connection and have any suggestions on how to improve picture quality of standard directv? I'm guessing a video scaler might be the only option but perhaps i'm missing something so I figured i'd ask. To be honest, I don't even know if a video scaler would improve PQ much at all. Any suggestions? :confused:

On a side note, high-def content streamed from my PC or from OTA HD channels is amazing!

Hey everyone. I recently posted my problem with getting the CableCard to work with my TV (Philips 42PF7320A.)
I called TWC Tier 3 tech support yesterday and now everything works! I'm incredibly excited that it finally worked.

To summarize, whenever I plugged in the CableCard into my TV, all signals would be dropped - even the analog channels. I would get a black screen and that's it. I've been trying to do different things to get it to work (unplugging tv, re-activating, using different cards, etc.) I updated my firmware recently to the latest provided by Philips (which was not officially posted on their website.) I called tech support yesterday and the tech guy I've been dealing with told me that last Friday a Sony rep came out to talk to them about this problem with their Sony sets. Apparently the techs have to send out a "hit" (this is the exact wording he used and I don't know what exactly it is) to the TV. He told me that they were told not to do so before, because it wouldn't work. Well it does. He told me to watch my screen because it might flash a few times and hopefully the analog signals will come in. So after waiting about 1 minute, ESPN2 (Channel 34) showed up on my screen. He had me flip through local and non-local analog channels to make sure it was working. Then I checked my local HD channels 309 and the like. Then I checked the Digital Basic channels (Discovery Times, etc) and they were all there! So everything is working now!

BTW, HD is so beautiful. Another thing, TWC let us borrow a SA STB for a couple of days and I noticed the signal quality was worse in SD (using component) than using straight from the wall cable, although the HD channels were fine.

I've got my 42pf7320 for about 10 days. The PQ is really good. Unless you compare it to the philips PP2 TV, I will say it's still the best compare to any other model. But may be due to cost limited. The remote is really not as elegant as my old philips plasma TV. It just a little piece of plastic with some very small buttoms on it. Poor remote!

Egonpax:
Comcast had to do the same "hit" with mine. The tech found his was to a screen that gave an IP address of the card after it was installed on the TV, he then called in, gave his ID code, and then told them the IP address. Took about 5 minutes. He explained that they "hit" the card to authorize programing such as Digital, HD and movie channels.
For those of you considering going with a cable card, I think the PQ is slightly better on HD channels than the DVI to HDMI I was running from my STB. The SD channels have quite a bit better quality with the cable card. The down side is that, at least with comcast, the cable card does not support the on screen menu style channel guide. So no banner saying whats on and no guide. The internal guide does work but that just gives you the channel designation (FOX, CNN, ESPNHD......)

this may be a dumb question, but how does one use the RF (I think that is the right term - the cable like that that which comes from the wall that cable is brought into the house with) cable from teh cable box to use as a source of input? Reading above where someone said they get a better SD pic that way. I would like to try it, but not sure what input that is.

this may be a dumb question, but how does one use the RF (I think that is the right term - the cable like that that which comes from the wall that cable is brought into the house with) cable from teh cable box to use as a source of input? Reading above where someone said they get a better SD pic that way. I would like to try it, but not sure what input that is.

7320A has a RF input port, which could connect to your RF cable.

Some people use a 1 to 2 RF splitter to feed the TV and STB at the same time.

just my 2 cents...

I do have the cable connected via the RF input on the tv, but not sure which 'input' that is on the settings. I also have an S-video for watching SD and component for watching HD.

My local Sams and local Costco are no longer carrying the Philips 42" 7320/7220. Has anyone else seen it at their club stores?

The Costco nearest to me didnt have the Philips for awhile, but then got in a big stock a few weeks ago. Different Costcos seem to carry different supplies. I called around a few today and 3 out of maybe 10 I called will be getting in 42" Panasonics later in the week, whereas the rest were not expecting any.


Harper

I have had the blank screen problem for days at a time.

I purchased this TV mid-Dec 05. The first week of Jan '06, I had the blank screen for hours at a time. At first, PHilips Customer Service could not locate a technician, then the techinican took weeks to order the part, to arrive at my home and find it was the wrong part.

The disappointment of buying the first large screen TV and have it completely die on you in 2 weeks!!!

Philips customer service has been rude and indifferent stating they will close my repair status if I posted anything negative. Right now, no one is willing to do anythign about it.

Fortunately I purchased this from Costco. I plan to return it today and never buy another Philips product again.

I would not recommend this TV to anyone, even if it works well now, if you have a problem later, Philips customer service is horrible to deal. They will not put you through to a supervisor and claim they are the highest level. They have nowhere to complain except snall-mail either.

Hi everyone. I'm new to this and my problem is I don't know how to upgrade the 42pf7220a/37. I have a dial up computer and AOL. Can someone explain how this works step by step. I have a basic computer and when I went to the Phillips site I downloaded the file for upgrade but AOL can't do autorun. What do I need to do and what am I missing. I have a USB cable and honestly I am terrible running computers. I tried to hook up the USB to the side of the Plasma and the Computer but nothing happened. I know I didn't do it right and have been trying for days. Please tell me what I need for my computer or if I can't do it with a dial up with AOL. When it comes to zip files I don't have a clue. Thanks in advance for your help. I would love a step by step process and what I need or don't need to upgrade.

Hi everyone. I'm new to this and my problem is I don't know how to upgrade the 42pf7220a/37. I have a dial up computer and AOL. Can someone explain how this works step by step. I have a basic computer and when I went to the Phillips site I downloaded the file for upgrade but AOL can't do autorun. What do I need to do and what am I missing. I have a USB cable and honestly I am terrible running computers. I tried to hook up the USB to the side of the Plasma and the Computer but nothing happened. I know I didn't do it right and have been trying for days. Please tell me what I need for my computer or if I can't do it with a dial up with AOL. When it comes to zip files I don't have a clue. Thanks in advance for your help. I would love a step by step process and what I need or don't need to upgrade.

You need a USB thumb drive. You then need to use Winzip to unzip the zip file you downloaded from Philips. Then place the autorun file located in the zip on the USB thumbdrive. Turn the plasma off, insert usb thumbdrive in usb, turn plasma back on. It'll auto-upgrade.

You need a USB thumb drive. You then need to use Winzip to unzip the zip file you downloaded from Philips. Then place the autorun file located in the zip on the USB thumbdrive. Turn the plasma off, insert usb thumbdrive in usb, turn plasma back on. It'll auto-upgrade.

Thanks for the help so I need to buy a USB thumb drive any in particular? Now I'm trying to find winzip. :mad: This is really computers for a dummy. I have no clue. I tried to find winzip on my comp. but nothing. I know this is sad.

You need a USB thumb drive. You then need to use Winzip to unzip the zip file you downloaded from Philips. Then place the autorun file located in the zip on the USB thumbdrive. Turn the plasma off, insert usb thumbdrive in usb, turn plasma back on. It'll auto-upgrade.

Will the firmware upgrade work using anything but a flash drive? I have a laptop and a usb cable, will that work?

Thanks,
Steve

You need a USB thumb drive. You then need to use Winzip to unzip the zip file you downloaded from Philips. Then place the autorun file located in the zip on the USB thumbdrive. Turn the plasma off, insert usb thumbdrive in usb, turn plasma back on. It'll auto-upgrade.

OK I just got Winzip so thats all set. Now I just need a USB just don't know which one or are they all the same for all computers and will it work on a basic comp with few features. What's the best one at lowest price. Thanks

OK I just got Winzip so thats all set. Now I just need a USB just don't know which one or are they all the same for all computers and will it work on a basic comp with few features. What's the best one at lowest price. Thanks

buy a cheap one on sale, the "big box stores" have them in their ads every sunday.
If I remember right, the file is only about 12MB so you don't need a large expensive one.
Before you go through all of that, go into the setup menu and see what version you have on the TV now, then compare it to what is available on the Philips site. You may have the latest version from the factory on the TV now. If not, doenload it to your harddrive, double click the file and winzip should appear and ask you where to unzip the file to. plug the thumb drive in, find it, (it will probably appear as "removeable drive d:, or e:) then have winzip unzip it to the thumbdrive and your ready to roll.....

Will the firmware upgrade work using anything but a flash drive? I have a laptop and a usb cable, will that work?

Thanks,
Steve


FWIW, I use my digital camera instead of a thumb drive. I just transfer the unzipped upgrade file via USB from my Powerbook to the camera's Compact Flash, then hook the camera up to the tv via USB. It also works using a USB card reader. I mention this in case you have one already and don't want/need to buy a thumb drive.

Hi I'm a newbie here,
I'am wondering if there is much difference, besides the size, of the 42" and the 50" philips plasmas offered at costco. Do you lose quality the larger the size of the screen. Is there a good viewing distance for the differet size screen??
I currently have a 36" tv and want to take the plunge into HDTV. With aspect ratio being different what is the most comparable.
I also looked at circuit city and the 42" was $500 more there for the Model 42PFUI7220A/37 and the costco model was the Model 42PFUI7320A/37. It didn't sound like there was any difference, except they didn't try and sell an extended warrenty at costco.

FWIW, I use my digital camera instead of a thumb drive. I just transfer the unzipped upgrade file via USB from my Powerbook to the camera's Compact Flash, then hook the camera up to the tv via USB. It also works using a USB card reader. I mention this in case you have one already and don't want/need to buy a thumb drive.

Thanks. I do have a digital camera and do not really have a need for a portable usb drive at this point. I'll give the camera a try.

Circuit City has this Plasma instock...for all you people that are wondering...

Also one of my local Sam's don't have it anymore...you guys should call to find out...

Here's the link at CC

ww.circuitcity.com/ssm/Philips-42-Plasma-HDTV-42PF7320A-/sem/rpsm/oid/125621/catOid/-12869/rpem/ccd/productDetail.

buy a cheap one on sale, the "big box stores" have them in their ads every sunday.
If I remember right, the file is only about 12MB so you don't need a large expensive one.
Before you go through all of that, go into the setup menu and see what version you have on the TV now, then compare it to what is available on the Philips site. You may have the latest version from the factory on the TV now. If not, doenload it to your harddrive, double click the file and winzip should appear and ask you where to unzip the file to. plug the thumb drive in, find it, (it will probably appear as "removeable drive d:, or e:) then have winzip unzip it to the thumbdrive and your ready to roll.....

Thanks so much I did everything and I did need a firmware upgrade. NOW THE PROBLEM - My screen is all lines all about 2 inches wide green/pink/green/pink all across the screen. Then when that goes away I get a double picture. That was why I thought I'd try the upgrade because I thought it might correct this but it didn't any thoughts on what this is or can it be fixed manually.

Circuit City has this Plasma instock...for all you people that are wondering...

I just saw that Sears has it too - [EDIT]

Moderator

This thread is for discussion of the Philips 42PF7320A plasma.

Please tale all further BB, CC, Costco, etc., discussion to the master thread at the top of the page.

Thanks all

Thanks so much I did everything and I did need a firmware upgrade. NOW THE PROBLEM - My screen is all lines all about 2 inches wide green/pink/green/pink all across the screen. Then when that goes away I get a double picture. That was why I thought I'd try the upgrade because I thought it might correct this but it didn't any thoughts on what this is or can it be fixed manually.
Hmmmm, I don't think the firmware upgrade is gonna help that. Could be an input problem. Are you using a cable box? If so, try a different input and see if you still have the problem. Example, if your using componant, try HDMI.

Hmmmm, I don't think the firmware upgrade is gonna help that. Could be an input problem. Are you using a cable box? If so, try a different input and see if you still have the problem. Example, if your using componant, try HDMI.

It even happens without any cable hooked up and just plugged directly into the wall. I have HDMI and a week ago all I did was change from one channel to another and bang there were these lines and the set hasn't worked right since. I unplugged everything. Just the cord directly to the wall to see if it was the breaker problems or a cable problem but the picture flickers, flashes. Anyone know what this is. I have no warranty so any help would be appreciated.

It even happens without any cable hooked up and just plugged directly into the wall. I have HDMI and a week ago all I did was change from one channel to another and bang there were these lines and the set hasn't worked right since. I unplugged everything. Just the cord directly to the wall to see if it was the breaker problems or a cable problem but the picture flickers, flashes. Anyone know what this is. I have no warranty so any help would be appreciated.

I have no idea what the problem may be, but I can understand the situation you are in. Have you tried restoring the factory settings without having any other components plugged in? I'm pretty sure this option is buried somewhere in the menu, but I could be wrong since I have just brought it home, but I think I recall seeing this option. I hope this helps.

Steve

Something interesting I noted the other day by accident. My tv was off and I accidentally bumped the volume button on the remote and the tv turned on - however no picture came on. Just the green light and slight flicker of the screen -like it was getting no picture signal. I tried this a couple times and it was the same each time. It got me thinking about all the reported problems people have been happening with picture dropout and was wondering if that could be related to a signal from the remote. Just a crazy thought.

Tiga

It even happens without any cable hooked up and just plugged directly into the wall. I have HDMI and a week ago all I did was change from one channel to another and bang there were these lines and the set hasn't worked right since. I unplugged everything. Just the cord directly to the wall to see if it was the breaker problems or a cable problem but the picture flickers, flashes. Anyone know what this is. I have no warranty so any help would be appreciated.
If you purchased your unit with a major credit card you still may be covered under the original warranty. Most credit card companies double the OEM's warrenty.

Bought a 42PF7320A 2 days ago and have it set-up. Problem I am having is the picture looks fuzzy and "pixeled". I am running Monster S-Video cable from a Direct TV DVR box to AV1. I also have the RF cable attached as well as the instructions state this can improve your picture, but I do not notice an improvement. Picture still looks pixeled, especially during fast motion shots (car chases on COPS) or fast paced sports look fuzzy and "pixeled" (like ice hockey)

Is this normal with plasmas? This is my first plasma so getting used to.

What can I do?

Bought a 42PF7320A 2 days ago and have it set-up. Problem I am having is the picture looks fuzzy and "pixeled". I am running Monster S-Video cable from a Direct TV DVR box to AV1. I also have the RF cable attached as well as the instructions state this can improve your picture, but I do not notice an improvement. Picture still looks pixeled, especially during fast motion shots (car chases on COPS) or fast paced sports look fuzzy and "pixeled" (like ice hockey)

Is this normal with plasmas? This is my first plasma so getting used to.

What can I do?


My first thought is to scrap the S-video cable and use component cables. I'm also of the belief that the expensive monster cables are bit overkill. Good luck.

My first thought is to scrap the S-video cable and use component cables. I'm also of the belief that the expensive monster cables are bit overkill. Good luck.
Have you tried hooking up an antenna and seeing how that looks? HD is really spectacular. I notice that the direct tv varies in the SD quality but mine looks good through HDMI for most channels. Try component over s-video

To anyone that has this tv already, what is the distance between the screw holes on the back for the wall mount brackets? I've got an existing wall mount that I'm trying to see if it would work on this tv. Appreciate the info.

Have you tried hooking up an antenna and seeing how that looks? HD is really spectacular. I notice that the direct tv varies in the SD quality but mine looks good through HDMI for most channels. Try component over s-video

I just had to post how great watching the superbowl on this TV was last night. I picked up the abc HD signal OTA and it was just superb. It made Pittsburgh's win that much better.
Cheers.

Tiga

So it seems with AV3 you can only use digital audio in to get sound. Can someone give me an idea what this cable is normally called. Is it a digital coaxial cable?

So it seems with AV3 you can only use digital audio in to get sound. Can someone give me an idea what this cable is normally called. Is it a digital coaxial cable?

Yes, digital coax is correct. It's a shielded cable with RCA connectors on both ends. The other kind of digital audio cable is optical, also called toslink. That's not the one you need. If the brand of cable has the name "monster" in it, you are paying too much. Go to monoprice.com for good prices on decent quality cables.

There were some questions in the past about connecting an OTA antenna and Analog Cable to the single RF input.

While this can be done with an A/B switch, the software doesn't play ball.

The only way to switch between the two is to go through the Installation menu and have it autoprogram the channels again. Well, this takes a while - and you lose your Favorites settings too.

I called Philips about this, and they confirmed it. Same deal if you use CabelCard.

IMO, this sucks.

Not quite true: You do have to go into the installation menu and switch between cable/antenna, but you don't have to actually run the program. Just make the selection, hit okay, and back out of the menu.

Does monoprice have HDMI. maybe I should just upgrade to those. i looked at the site and the HDMI were much lower than I've seen at and land store. Makes me wonder if they are what I think they are.

To anyone that has this tv already, what is the distance between the screw holes on the back for the wall mount brackets? I've got an existing wall mount that I'm trying to see if it would work on this tv. Appreciate the info.


The wall mount pattern is 800mm x 400mm. I think people in this and other forums have recommended the Omnimount U3-Tiltmount from Circuit City, if yours doesn't fit.

Thanks so much I did everything and I did need a firmware upgrade. NOW THE PROBLEM - My screen is all lines all about 2 inches wide green/pink/green/pink all across the screen. Then when that goes away I get a double picture. That was why I thought I'd try the upgrade because I thought it might correct this but it didn't any thoughts on what this is or can it be fixed manually.

I just purchased this TV this Saturday(Feb.4, 2006) and it was good on Sunday when I set it up/turned it on and it worked great but when I turned it on Monday morning, I had the double picture problem described above but it would clear up in a few minutes so I thought nothing of it.
If I turn the TV off for even an hour and turn it back on, same issue and it would clear up in a few minutes.
Then today(Tuesday) when I turned it on, the screen flickers like the refresh rate is low and the green/pink lines come in and out intermittently.
This issue has not cleared up even with the TV on for an hour.

I'm gonna check the firmware version and see if it's the latest and try to upgrade if needed but it looks like that might not solved the issue from reading the comment above.

I know I can take it back since it's not even 4 days old but packing that hugh box back up and hauling it back to the store is not fun.

Any suggestions or comments on what's going on ?
thanks.

Call Philips Service and have them exchange it for you. That way you don't have to pack it up and haul it back to the store.

Does monoprice have HDMI. maybe I should just upgrade to those. i looked at the site and the HDMI were much lower than I've seen at and land store. Makes me wonder if they are what I think they are.

If you have a source capable of outputting HDMI, then give it a try. The picture is just slightly better through HDMI than component when connected to my cable box.

I recently purchased a HDMI cable as well as an optical audio cable from monoprice. Do a search on this board if you want. You'll find that the quality is as good as the high priced (high profit!) cables your local big box store will try to sell you. Some will say monster cable is better, but it's usually the people that need to justify the fact that they spent a few hundred dollars on a few feet of wire.

The wall mount pattern is 800mm x 400mm. I think people in this and other forums have recommended the Omnimount U3-Tiltmount from Circuit City, if yours doesn't fit.

Thanks for that tidbit. In case others are wondering, that's 31.496062992125985 inches apart for the wall mount screw holes.

Not quite true: You do have to go into the installation menu and switch between cable/antenna, but you don't have to actually run the program. Just make the selection, hit okay, and back out of the menu.

I disagree. The ONLY way for me to reach this selection is by following this path:
Menu/Installation/Autoprogram/StartNow, then select Antenna/Cable, then Start to begin programming.

My firmware is the latest: BX23U-1.0.8.0 00841

If you can select Antenna/Cable on your 7320 without repeating the programming, PLEASE cite your EXACT sequence. Thanks.

Does anyone know what the two led lights that are included in the box are for? I actually have the 42pf7220a. They have a microphone style plug in on one end and two led lights split on the other.

Thanks

I disagree. The ONLY way for me to reach this selection is by following this path:
Menu/Installation/Autoprogram/StartNow, then select Antenna/Cable, then Start to begin programming.

My firmware is the latest: BX23U-1.0.8.0 00841

If you can select Antenna/Cable on your 7320 without repeating the programming, PLEASE cite your EXACT sequence. Thanks.

Strange. I'm doing exactly that. If I press "ok" one more time, it would start to run the autoprogram, so I don't do it. I just back out of the menu at the point. I have the latest firmware which is:

BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441

You might try grabbing that.

Does anyone know what the two led lights that are included in the box are for? I actually have the 42pf7220a. They have a microphone style plug in on one end and two led lights split on the other.

Thanks

I didn't get any 'lights' with my model but they may be for the IR OUT jack on the bottom. My User Manual doesn't mention them either but it does show the jack in the diagrams. Info may be on the CD which came with the TV. The CD which I have not looked at after 3 months nor am I even sure where it is. :confused:

Harry

the lights were meant for use with the tv guide function that was originally planned for some of the philips' plasmas. It would be used as a "blaster." It came with all the 9630a/37's.

I just purchased this TV this Saturday(Feb.4, 2006) and it was good on Sunday when I set it up/turned it on and it worked great but when I turned it on Monday morning, I had the double picture problem described above but it would clear up in a few minutes so I thought nothing of it.
If I turn the TV off for even an hour and turn it back on, same issue and it would clear up in a few minutes.
Then today(Tuesday) when I turned it on, the screen flickers like the refresh rate is low and the green/pink lines come in and out intermittently.
This issue has not cleared up even with the TV on for an hour.

I'm gonna check the firmware version and see if it's the latest and try to upgrade if needed but it looks like that might not solved the issue from reading the comment above.

I know I can take it back since it's not even 4 days old but packing that hugh box back up and hauling it back to the store is not fun.

Any suggestions or comments on what's going on ?
thanks.

Well, I plan on taking the TV back but thought that since I wasn't the only one having the issue and may not be the last, I'd mention some items.

btw:
I upgraded to the latest version of BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441 and have a power conditioner and it made no difference.

1.
If the TV has been off for more than an hour, the green/pink verticle bars appear on the picture. The size of the bars switch between 1/8 inch to about 1 inch.
While this is occurring, I can hear a flickering sound in the back/rear of the TV.
It's not noticiable/audible unless you are next to the TV.

2.
If wait about 5 minutes, turn off the TV for 1 minute and turn it back on, I get the double ghosting image but the green/pink verticle bars are gone.
Within a few minutes, the picture corrects itself and its fine for the remainder of time that it is on.

3.
If I don't turn off the TV when the green/pink verticle bars appear, the bars will go away in about 10-15 minutes then the picture is normal but it's like the refresh rate is around 30-40hz, giving the picture a flickering look but the picture isn't distorted, just flickers. It continued to do this for over an hour and I turned the TV off at this point and didn't turn it back on for 8 hours.



Question:
I know my house is within the temperature specs but I leave my house temps around 50-60 degrees.
I know this is shooting in the dark but could cold temps possibley be causing this issue ?

What could be causing these issues only at startup ?

I've posted in the past about my screen going black intermittenly for 5 seconds at a time. The authorized service rep in my area was totally clueless. Anyways, after 2 months, he called to tell me that Philips informed him that the newest firmware upgrade (BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441) will take care of the problem. I updated my tv last night, now only time will tell. :rolleyes:

Does monoprice have HDMI. maybe I should just upgrade to those. i looked at the site and the HDMI were much lower than I've seen at and land store. Makes me wonder if they are what I think they are.

I've purchased a couple of different cables from monoprice and they are very high quality. The comcast tech that installed my cable card even commented that the DVI to HDMI gold cable I was using with the box must have been very expensive.

Krisephilips: Scrap the s-video! Works fine for a 1980's TV playing the "Welcome Back Kotter" series on VHS, but it sucks for a good digital signal.....

This is my first post concerning the black screen issue. Like the others here I have experienced my audio and video dropping for a period of about 5 seconds. It seems to be getting worse. I swapped my cable/STB for a brand new one to be sure that wasn't the culprit. It wasn't.

I upgraded to the latest firmware (BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441) and that has not stopped the problem, as suggested in the post above. If anything, it made it worse. This evening I had the audio/video drop for approximately ONE MINUTE. I tried changing channels on my cable/STB and that didn't help. I then tried powering off the TV using the remote and the TV only responded with the blinking green light like when you raise/lower volume. It would not power off. Then the TV just started to display video and the audio came back. VERY weird.

I called Philips technical suport and I quoted this forum. The tech said he was familiar with this site. The only help he prescribed was to unlug the TV for approximately 2 minutes to reset it. He said if that did not work, I would need to call an authorized service center. Too early to tell, but I am betting that it will NOT work.

I have also experienced similar problems as in the post above (with the pink and green lines). After purchasing this TV I purchased and returned NUMEROUS different models/brands of progressive scan, upconvert DVD players (Toshiba x 3, Sony, etc.). I was connecting these via HDMI and I could not get a picture/sound from any of them. Every now and then a picture would fade in, but it would be covered in pink and green lines, boxes, etc. I also tried many different HDMI cables as well (brands, models, etc). These same DVD players would play fine on my Sony rear projection LCD with HDMI. What is very strange is that my STB box with HDMI was fine on the Philips in both HDMI ports prompting Philips technical support to decide there was nothing wrong with the ports and they blamed the DVD players. I now use component video for connecting my DVD player.

This TV is 6 weeks old, purchased at Costco and I no longer have the box. I cannot take it back to the store for a refund because it is wall mounted and I suffered an injury which prevents me from lifting anything this heavy. If I could.... it would be returned tomorrow morning for a full refund. I am VERY unhappy with this TV. Great picture, but not worth the trouble.

Regarding the green/pink lines and double image issue.
It will do this even with all connecters removed accept the power cord.
I just turn on the menu screen and it has the green/pink lines or double image depending on what issue is occuring at the moment.

I'm starting to suspect that perhaps this might be temperature related but I'm just guessing.
The green/pink lines only seem to occur in the morning(6am) when it's about 35 degrees outside and about 45-50 degrees inside the house. (I leave the heat off at night).
When I come home around 4:30pm and the temps have risen, I get the double image issue but it clears up in a few minutes.

No troubles with my hdset *knock on wood* after two and a half months of use. I haven't upgraded to the latest firmware on Philips' site but will soon. Incidentally, the TV can read the memory stick off of Sony's PSP handheld (via usb cable). I'll prolly d/l the tv's firmware to the PSP and launch/upgrade from there.

Someone is reporting the same 'black screen' (audio/video dropout) over on the Philips 50'' thread. I specifically asked the Philips phone tech if they have an 'escalation process' for this and he stated, "No". Call an authorized repair tech.

The engineers/programmers at Philips should be made aware of this!

Strange. I'm doing exactly that. If I press "ok" one more time, it would start to run the autoprogram, so I don't do it. I just back out of the menu at the point. I have the latest firmware which is:

BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441

You might try grabbing that.

Muskeg - you da man!

I tried what you said, and it worked! The software is not setup to intuitively realize that is possible, but it works. Thanks a million. I'm tempted to call Philips back so they can be educated on how their product works.

Regarding the green/pink lines and double image issue.
It will do this even with all connecters removed accept the power cord.
I just turn on the menu screen and it has the green/pink lines or double image depending on what issue is occuring at the moment.

I'm starting to suspect that perhaps this might be temperature related but I'm just guessing.
The green/pink lines only seem to occur in the morning(6am) when it's about 35 degrees outside and about 45-50 degrees inside the house. (I leave the heat off at night).
When I come home around 4:30pm and the temps have risen, I get the double image issue but it clears up in a few minutes.

I think your TV's motherboard or other circuits are not stable.
Some hardware needs to be changed by a trained technician in order to fix it.

I would return the unit if it is still possible.

I don't know if it's related or not ...

All plasma panels are very sensitive to elevations of your location, because they
need to work harder when the air pressure is lower.

Some panels work below 7000ft above sea level.

Muskeg - you da man!

I tried what you said, and it worked! The software is not setup to intuitively realize that is possible, but it works. Thanks a million. I'm tempted to call Philips back so they can be educated on how their product works.


Great! Glad to help! This board has helped me tons, and it's fun to give back.

I've called Philiips and given them suggestions for improving their menus (mainly OSD issues), so the more people who call in and politely suggest that they fix their menus via software, the better. I posted about it in the PF507220A/37 thread, 4th or 5th down:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=7097784#post7097784

I think your TV's motherboard or other circuits are not stable.
Some hardware needs to be changed by a trained technician in order to fix it.

I would return the unit if it is still possible.

I don't know if it's related or not ...

All plasma panels are very sensitive to elevations of your location, because they
need to work harder when the air pressure is lower.

Some panels work below 7000ft above sea level.
Ya, I'll be taking this back on Saturday.
Hopefully the replacement won't have this issue.

btw:
My elevation is only 500 ft. I basically live on top of a hill.
It's just been cold out side.

Well, I plan on taking the TV back but thought that since I wasn't the only one having the issue and may not be the last, I'd mention some items.

btw:
I upgraded to the latest version of BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441 and have a power conditioner and it made no difference.

1.
If the TV has been off for more than an hour, the green/pink verticle bars appear on the picture. The size of the bars switch between 1/8 inch to about 1 inch.
While this is occurring, I can hear a flickering sound in the back/rear of the TV.
It's not noticiable/audible unless you are next to the TV.

2.
If wait about 5 minutes, turn off the TV for 1 minute and turn it back on, I get the double ghosting image but the green/pink verticle bars are gone.
Within a few minutes, the picture corrects itself and its fine for the remainder of time that it is on.

3.
If I don't turn off the TV when the green/pink verticle bars appear, the bars will go away in about 10-15 minutes then the picture is normal but it's like the refresh rate is around 30-40hz, giving the picture a flickering look but the picture isn't distorted, just flickers. It continued to do this for over an hour and I turned the TV off at this point and didn't turn it back on for 8 hours.



Question:
I know my house is within the temperature specs but I leave my house temps around 50-60 degrees.
I know this is shooting in the dark but could cold temps possibley be causing this issue ?

What could be causing these issues only at startup ?


I'm taking the TV back but I thought that I post pics of my issues for reference.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v122/microtonal/Phillips42Plasma42PF7320A-37.jpg

I'm taking the TV back but I thought that I post pics of my issues for reference.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v122/microtonal/Phillips42Plasma42PF7320A-37.jpg

Yes, have it replaced.

I'm taking the TV back but I thought that I post pics of my issues for reference.



Just out of curiosity, did you have this tv delivered, or did you haul it yourself? And if you did haul it, did you transport it standing up, and not laying down?

Hauled it myself with a friend in an SUV. I have a hatchback and it could of fit lying down but called a friend to come down and help me take it home in the appropriate position.
I took all precautions and transported it upright( as noted on the box several times.)
I will say that when the guy brought it out on the dolly, he had the TV on it's side to fit it through the door.
I even waited overnight to set it up(Bought it Saturday night) to make sure it was the same temperature as my house since the sales guy said it's best that the TV be at room temperature before turning it on.

The TV worked great out of the box and all day Sunday.
Then Monday morning, the issues started to occur.

After more than 1 month of English to American English translation.
:)

http://www.consumer.philips.com/consumer/catalog/product.jsp?language=en&country=US&catalogType=CONSUMER&productId=42PF7320A_37_US_CONSUMER

BX23U-1.0.13.0 01441
Fo l l owing pro blems are solved :
• improvement for selection for Secundary Audio Program on digital channels
• extra step in automatic installation to detect scrambled channels and unmark them in pre fe rred channel
list , as a consequence the scrambled channels will be skipped when pressing CH+/CH- and are not
visible in the channel map
• default horizontal & vertical center value corrected on inputs where horizontal & vertical shift is allowed

BX23U-1.0.7.0 00831

Fo l l owing pro blems are solved :
• improved robuustness for digital audio connections with some specific cable boxes
• improved robustness for source selection and re c ove ry time with some specific HDMI or DVI device
• bad colours after switching between HDMI and YPbPr inputs
• wrong decoding of very low bit rate ATSC streams
• general performance improvement

I just purchased this TV this Saturday(Feb.4, 2006) and it was good on Sunday when I set it up/turned it on and it worked great but when I turned it on Monday morning, I had the double picture problem described above but it would clear up in a few minutes so I thought nothing of it.
If I turn the TV off for even an hour and turn it back on, same issue and it would clear up in a few minutes.
Then today(Tuesday) when I turned it on, the screen flickers like the refresh rate is low and the green/pink lines come in and out intermittently.
This issue has not cleared up even with the TV on for an hour.

I'm gonna check the firmware version and see if it's the latest and try to upgrade if needed but it looks like that might not solved the issue from reading the comment above.

I know I can take it back since it's not even 4 days old but packing that hugh box back up and hauling it back to the store is not fun.

Any suggestions or comments on what's going on ?
thanks.

THIS JUST IN !!!!

This Phillips Plasma is the worst piece of garbage ever. If you own one I feel bad for you. I had one got a refund and like an idiot bought the exact Plasma from a different store and would you believe the same thing happened again but this time it wasn't a week or a month we had the Plasma for 10 hours. Returned it got refund and will never buy a Phillips again. Looking for a Panasonic, Sony or Pioneer now can't believe there aren't more complaints.

I'm taking the TV back but I thought that I post pics of my issues for reference.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v122/microtonal/Phillips42Plasma42PF7320A-37.jpg

THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT HAPPENED TO ME NOT ONCE BUT TWICE !!! People may say buy another one I say get your money back and run as far away from this Plasma as you can. I posted this in January -

Originally Posted by Plasma_Problems
Thanks so much I did everything and I did need a firmware upgrade. NOW THE PROBLEM - My screen is all lines all about 2 inches wide green/pink/green/pink all across the screen. Then when that goes away I get a double picture. That was why I thought I'd try the upgrade because I thought it might correct this but it didn't any thoughts on what this is or can it be fixed manually.

Aint nothing wrong with mine.

Am looking to get this set. Found an incredible deal at a local B&M. 27% off of retail!!!

One thing I am concerned about is the Contrast ratio's. Looking at the philips site, it mentions 10000:1 but on several other online sites it says 3000:1.

Any difference between a set that says 42PF7320A and one that add /37 to the end of model number?

Hauled it myself with a friend in an SUV. I have a hatchback and it could of fit lying down but called a friend to come down and help me take it home in the appropriate position.
I took all precautions and transported it upright( as noted on the box several times.)
I will say that when the guy brought it out on the dolly, he had the TV on it's side to fit it through the door.
I even waited overnight to set it up(Bought it Saturday night) to make sure it was the same temperature as my house since the sales guy said it's best that the TV be at room temperature before turning it on.

The TV worked great out of the box and all day Sunday.
Then Monday morning, the issues started to occur.


Just curious - does (did) this happen when viewing a movie from a DVD?

THIS JUST IN !!!!

This Phillips Plasma is the worst piece of garbage ever. If you own one I feel bad for you. I had one got a refund and like an idiot bought the exact Plasma from a different store and would you believe the same thing happened again but this time it wasn't a week or a month we had the Plasma for 10 hours. Returned it got refund and will never buy a Phillips again. Looking for a Panasonic, Sony or Pioneer now can't believe there aren't more complaints.

My parents have the 42" costco version (7220 instead of 7330). It's the same tv. They've experienced zero problems.

I have the 50" costco version. I've experienced no problems. My main complaint has to do with items in the menus--no big deal there.

We're both very happy with our Philips plasma tvs. I see that your name is "Plasma Problems". Perhaps you just enjoy complaining about things in general?

I'd buy a Philips without hesitation.

.

My parents have the 42" costco version (7220 instead of 7330). It's the same tv. They've experienced zero problems.

I have the 50" costco version. I've experienced no problems. My main complaint has to do with items in the menus--no big deal there.

We're both very happy with our Philips plasma tvs. I see that your name is "Plasma Problems". Perhaps you just enjoy complaining about things in general?

I'd buy a Philips without hesitation.

It was a screen name Plasma_Problems because I had a problem with mine and guess what there are thousands of others that do also and this Plasma was the 1st one I bought. There will be plenty of deals for this Plasma and I will bet in 6 months you'll see it for $1300 when the Plasma has a recall or is discontinued because it is junk. If you have a warranty your lucky because in 3 years I doubt this Plasma will work. How many years does Costco/BJ's offer 1 year right. No extended warranty means there will be many more complaints.

One day someone reading this post will turn on this Phillips Plasma and it won't work and I will bet that day is today or tomorrow.

You don't have to preach to me about you would buy a Phillips Plasma without hesitation. Preach when you had to return not one but 2 for the same problem. Enjoy your Plasma and keep telling yourself what a deal you got and everyone is so so happy. When you could be the next victim of this Phillips piece of junk just buy another one right!!!!!!!!!

Am looking to get this set. Found an incredible deal at a local B&M. 27% off of retail!!!

One thing I am concerned about is the Contrast ratio's. Looking at the philips site, it mentions 10000:1 but on several other online sites it says 3000:1.

Any difference between a set that says 42PF7320A and one that add /37 to the end of model number?

You want a deal wait a few months when this is a $1300 Plasma consider another Plasma trust me see those pictures posted that happened to both of mine.

It was a screen name Plasma_Problems because I had a problem with mine and guess what there are thousands of others that do also and this Plasma was the 1st one I bought. There will be plenty of deals for this Plasma and I will bet in 6 months you'll see it for $1300 when the Plasma has a recall or is discontinued because it is junk. If you have a warranty your lucky because in 3 years I doubt this Plasma will work. How many years does Costco/BJ's offer 1 year right. No extended warranty means there will be many more complaints.

One day someone reading this post will turn on this Phillips Plasma and it won't work and I will bet that day is today or tomorrow.

You don't have to preach to me about you would buy a Phillips Plasma without hesitation. Preach when you had to return not one but 2 for the same problem. Enjoy your Plasma and keep telling yourself what a deal you got and everyone is so so happy. When you could be the next victim of this Phillips piece of junk just buy another one right!!!!!!!!!

A bit dramatic don't you think? You are simply unlucky. I bought a Xbox 360 and it didn't work. I sent it to MS for repairs and they sent me a replacement unit. The replacement also didn't work and I had to get it replaced too. Since then it's been working flawlessly. Do I think all 360's are doomed to fail and break down any minute? NOPE. You, much like myself, got unlucky. Live with it and move on. ;)

How many years does Costco/BJ's offer 1 year right. No extended warranty means there will be many more complaints.

That pretty much sums up your knowledge right there.

I'm sorry you've had such bad luck. But that's what it is: bad luck.

Whats the best way to use this with a computer? I have an HDMI-DVI cable. It worked tho the picture didnt fill the screen and it was blurry. Whats the best way to do this?

Just curious - does (did) this happen when viewing a movie from a DVD?
It had the issue regardless if the cable was plugged in or not.
I had all inputs removed with only the power connected and viewed the menu and the green/pink lines wouldn't go away.
I even tried with a movie with only the input(composite) and also tried a camera/USB to view pics and the issue was present.

The issue doesn't appear to be input related but something internal to the TV itself.

By Friday(I week after purchase), the green and pink lines would not go away even after 2 hours and turning the TV off/on(wait 5 minutes between off/on) a few times. It's like the issue was permanent.


I got my TV at Sears and they have a 15% restocking fee now for refunds on their Home Enteratinment equipment.
Even though they had none in stock at any of their other stores and I asked for a refund to go buy a TV elsewhere because the TV they sold me was defective, they would NOT give me a 100% refund. 15% is $300.

I had the manager there and they were useless.

I'm getting a replacement and if this one craps out, I will say I'm getting another brand.


Plasma_Problems, what did you use(truck, car, Van, etc.) to transport/deliver the TV to the house ?
What was the position of the box/TV when it was transported ?
On the side, lying down, upright, on it's back/front(screen)



So, what does the /37 mean on the part number ?

It sucks that you guys have had problems, but like stated before, any electronic device is bound to have some defective units floating around - I know this doesn't make you feel better ;-)

FWIW, I got mine at Sears. When I went to pick it up originally, I had my Subaru, and the guy said "you can't lay this down. If you choose to take it laying down, you'll have to sign a waiver of warranty." So I went and borrowed a van so I could haul it standing up. Obviously we as buyers have no idea who handled the units before us, so .... but I deduced that keeping them standing up was pretty important because of the screen.

Isn't the /37 model the Ambilight models?

Whats the best way to use this with a computer? I have an HDMI-DVI cable. It worked tho the picture didnt fill the screen and it was blurry. Whats the best way to do this?

Did you adjust your CPU resolution higher? You may have the resolution on your desktop set to low (800x600) which is causing the blurry picture and the screen not to fill.

Set to 1280 x 760 resolution. See how this looks.

Good Luck!

the " /37 " on philips models seems to designate that they are for the North American mkt. When you see a model listed here without the /37, I think it is onlu because they failed to add that designation, but it is the same. If you go to the Philips worldwide site and the /37 is not on the model, it is different.

It had the issue regardless if the cable was plugged in or not.
I had all inputs removed with only the power connected and viewed the menu and the green/pink lines wouldn't go away.
I even tried with a movie with only the input(composite) and also tried a camera/USB to view pics and the issue was present.

The issue doesn't appear to be input related but something internal to the TV itself.

By Friday(I week after purchase), the green and pink lines would not go away even after 2 hours and turning the TV off/on(wait 5 minutes between off/on) a few times. It's like the issue was permanent.


I got my TV at Sears and they have a 15% restocking fee now for refunds on their Home Enteratinment equipment.
Even though they had none in stock at any of their other stores and I asked for a refund to go buy a TV elsewhere because the TV they sold me was defective, they would NOT give me a 100% refund. 15% is $300.

I had the manager there and they were useless.

I'm getting a replacement and if this one craps out, I will say I'm getting another brand.


Plasma_Problems, what did you use(truck, car, Van, etc.) to transport/deliver the TV to the house ?
What was the position of the box/TV when it was transported ?
On the side, lying down, upright, on it's back/front(screen)



So, what does the /37 mean on the part number ?


Thanks for responding to my curiosity.

From your description, it does sound like a TV problem. Hope you have a better luck on your replacement unit.

p.s. Consumer Reports magazine's recent issue lists Philips 50 and 42 in its reviews. The 42-inch is the 630 model (similar to the 7320 but for the ambilight feature).

Ill give 1280 x 760 a try. TY BTW anyone use this with powerstrip? If so what settings do u like?

My mom and dad (who are 80) just got the 7230 from SAM's tonight. My brother picked it out and set it up for them then had to leave. I have a few questions. I'm dealing with 80 year olds here.

1) How do you punch in a digital channel like 13.1? I download the manual and it says use the dash (I assume by the zero) but when telling my mother hit 13 "dash" 1 she says it won't go to it. I also assume you can delete channels.

2) Can you label you AV inputs like "Satellite"? and can you delete AV inputs?

3) Does the OTA HDTV have a programming guide? I don't see an EPG button on the remote.

4) Does AV3 accept 480i? in this case a satellite receiver and it has digital audio out would that go into the digital audio in of the TV?

TIA

Does anyone know how to get rid of those random channels that get picked up like 11.1325? I have about 10 of them and it really makes surfing through the channels a hassle as the tuner seems to hang on these stupid blank nothing channels. I did the obvious through the menu channel deleting of all the junk channels I didn't want but it won't let me uncheck these ones under favorites or even under the locked menu.

Did you go into Preferred Channels menu and delete there? know any of my questions?

My mom and dad (who are 80) just got the 7230 from SAM's tonight. My brother picked it out and set it up for them then had to leave. I have a few questions. I'm dealing with 80 year olds here.

1) How do you punch in a digital channel like 13.1? I download the manual and it says use the dash (I assume by the zero) but when telling my mother hit 13 "dash" 1 she says it won't go to it. I also assume you can delete channels.

2) Can you label you AV inputs like "Satellite"? and can you delete AV inputs?

3) Does the OTA HDTV have a programming guide? I don't see an EPG button on the remote.

4) Does AV3 accept 480i? in this case a satellite receiver and it has digital audio out would that go into the digital audio in of the TV?

TIA

1. 13 - 1 would indeed goto 13.1. Not sure why its not working for her, perhaps she's not hitting "-" and hitting something else.

2. You can lable but you can't delete AV inputs.

3. Nope, unless i'm not aware of it?

4. Yep, sure does.

Hope i've been of some help. :)

My mom and dad (who are 80) just got the 7230 from SAM's tonight. My brother picked it out and set it up for them then had to leave. I have a few questions. I'm dealing with 80 year olds here.

1) How do you punch in a digital channel like 13.1? I download the manual and it says use the dash (I assume by the zero) but when telling my mother hit 13 "dash" 1 she says it won't go to it. I also assume you can delete channels.

2) Can you label you AV inputs like "Satellite"? and can you delete AV inputs?

3) Does the OTA HDTV have a programming guide? I don't see an EPG button on the remote.

4) Does AV3 accept 480i? in this case a satellite receiver and it has digital audio out would that go into the digital audio in of the TV?

TIA
1. 'Dash' key is on the right side of zero (0) key.
Use it for sub channels.
You need to do a full channel scan first, which may take 10-20 minutes.

2. Yes. You can pickup names for AV inputs from a list of names like: Sat, DVD etc.
No. You can NOT delete (or skip) an input.


4. Yes, I think so. I use 480P thru component video. 480i should be fine I think.

Ok thanks!

1. 'Dash' key is on the right side of zero (0) key.
Use it for sub channels.
You need to do a full channel scan first, which may take 10-20 minutes.

2. Yes. You can pickup names for AV inputs from a list of names like: Sat, DVD etc.
No. You can NOT delete (or skip) an input.


4. Yes, I think so. I use 480P thru component video. 480i should be fine I think.


You can, however, label an input "none" so they know its not being used.

Someone is reporting the same 'black screen' (audio/video dropout) over on the Philips 50'' thread. I specifically asked the Philips phone tech if they have an 'escalation process' for this and he stated, "No". Call an authorized repair tech.

The engineers/programmers at Philips should be made aware of this!

Macropod,

I have a Philips 50PF7220A with the black screen issue. When playing Star Wars III on DVD last night (Progressive scan DVD player, component cables, AV1), I got the black screen (no picture or sound) every time I went to the intro screen (where you can select to play the movie or go to set up options). This was very repeatable. Screen would go out for 5-10 seconds, come back on for 5 seconds, then go out again over and over. The intro screen for Star Wars III is extremely bright with alot of orange. I think the TV is not processing this extremely bright image correctly and goes into a "reboot" mode. What do you think? Do you have a copy of Star Wars III that you can confirm the problem on your TV?

Thanks!!!!

^^^ What version of software are you running ?
Just curious.


I will also note that my screen goes black for about a second and looses sound volume when I'm fast forwarding through commercials on a VHS tape.

It does this intermittently between commercials that I FF.

When FF through a VHS tape, the sound is obviously muted but the speaker will makes a popping sound and when I stop the FF, the screen is back but the volume is half of what it should be.

If I switch to another channel, the correct volume level comes back.



Also, is everyone here running some sort of high quaility power conditioner/surge protecter ?

I have the Furman conditioner and Monster Cable protecter products for conditioning and protection.

Is there a preference on the picture mode you should be running ?

Is using the Automatic mode too much for the TV to process all the time since it needs to adjust and readjust the picture as needed.

I'm using the latest firmware BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441.

I was using Natural and Soft settings. I also changed to Eco and still had the black screen problem.

I use Natural most often, sometimes a custom settings. I've never had a black screen problem, using TV, DVD, VCR or PS2.

Hello All,
New to the site and to the 42PF7320A. I have had no issues thus far and am quite pleased with the PQ. However, after I upgraded to the latest firmware, I noticed that the Autopicture ALWAYS defaults to the 'Soft' setting. I would like it to always default to 'Personal'. Even though it mentions that the TV will default to the last used setting (which I made sure was Personal), it always defaults to 'Soft' for my HDMI2 input. I am not sure if this happened before the firmware upgrade.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Digital cable set top - HDMI 2
Progressive Scan DVD - AVI 1


Thanks,
Martin

My HDMI 1 always defaults to soft before and after the firmware upgrade.

Macropod,

I have a Philips 50PF7220A with the black screen issue. When playing Star Wars III on DVD last night (Progressive scan DVD player, component cables, AV1), I got the black screen (no picture or sound) every time I went to the intro screen (where you can select to play the movie or go to set up options). This was very repeatable. Screen would go out for 5-10 seconds, come back on for 5 seconds, then go out again over and over. The intro screen for Star Wars III is extremely bright with alot of orange. I think the TV is not processing this extremely bright image correctly and goes into a "reboot" mode. What do you think? Do you have a copy of Star Wars III that you can confirm the problem on your TV?

Thanks!!!!

Hi Johnny;

I have the Star Wars III DVD and just gave it a try. No issues at all with the top menu. My setup is a Sony DVD player the progressive scan connected with component cables to AV1. I am running the latest firmware on the TV which someone reported here was supposed to fix this 'black screen' problem. Do you have the latest firmware?

Yes, I have the latest firmware version. I've have randomly seen this black screen problem with my cable box using HDMI input also. The Star Wars III DVD top menu screen always causes the problem. Thanks for trying the DVD.

Macropod,

I have a Philips 50PF7220A with the black screen issue. When playing Star Wars III on DVD last night (Progressive scan DVD player, component cables, AV1), I got the black screen (no picture or sound) every time I went to the intro screen (where you can select to play the movie or go to set up options). This was very repeatable. Screen would go out for 5-10 seconds, come back on for 5 seconds, then go out again over and over. The intro screen for Star Wars III is extremely bright with alot of orange. I think the TV is not processing this extremely bright image correctly and goes into a "reboot" mode. What do you think? Do you have a copy of Star Wars III that you can confirm the problem on your TV?

Thanks!!!!

A few pages back I posted a similar experience while watching Star Wars III. Please refer to posting #269 on page 9 for full text of my posting.

You may want to check the setting of your DVD to play to Plasma TV (my DVD player has 5 options to play to - Standard TV, CRT Projector, LCD TV, Projection TV and Plasma TV). The DVD factory setting was set to Standard TV. The 5-second audio/video blackout occurring on a specific part of the movie - much like what you are experiencing now- was corrected when I changed the DVD video setting to TV Type = Plasma TV

Hope this helps (Please let us know what happens). Thanks

I have been reading more and more about burn in. I read that you should keep your contrast lower than 50% the first 100 hours or so. I noticed when I do this the screen is almost unwatchably dark.

Setting currently:
Personal/ Cool color mode
Contrast 84
brightness 40
color 67
sharp 1

Should I try a Soft/Natural setting? I have noticed small periods of burn in when I have the plasma on but with no component running, but this seems to disapper after a minute or so.

Just curious what others are running for settings and getting good picutures with.

I have been reading more and more about burn in. I read that you should keep your contrast lower than 50% the first 100 hours or so. I noticed when I do this the screen is almost unwatchably dark.

Setting currently:
Personal/ Cool color mode
Contrast 84
brightness 40
color 67
sharp 1

Should I try a Soft/Natural setting? I have noticed small periods of burn in when I have the plasma on but with no component running, but this seems to disapper after a minute or so.

Just curious what others are running for settings and getting good picutures with.

I agree with you, the below 50% setting is way to dark. I tried to keep it that low when I first purchased the TV but it didn't last too long. My plasma also has image retention sometimes but it never lasts longer than a minute too and its usually after a watch a hour show with a solid channel logo there the whole time. It's like a slight shadow that you can see of the logo when the TV's signal is blank. Once you start watching something, its gone. I've since played video games on the plasma for hours and have never had a burn in problem. If you ask me, you've got nothing to worry about as long as you don't leave the same image on it for hours. Hell, i've left my tivo paused for 2 hours once by mistake and had no burn in problem. If you ask me, burn in is really far less of a problem than most make it out to be. Somewhere in this thread I posted my settings I use that I calibrated using the Avia disk. Either way, I wouldn't worry too much about it. :)

I agree with you, the below 50% setting is way to dark. I tried to keep it that low when I first purchased the TV but it didn't last too long. My plasma also has image retention sometimes but it never lasts longer than a minute too and its usually after a watch a hour show with a solid channel logo there the whole time. It's like a slight shadow that you can see of the logo when the TV's signal is blank. Once you start watching something, its gone. I've since played video games on the plasma for hours and have never had a burn in problem. If you ask me, you've got nothing to worry about as long as you don't leave the same image on it for hours. Hell, i've left my tivo paused for 2 hours once by mistake and had no burn in problem. If you ask me, burn in is really far less of a problem than most make it out to be. Somewhere in this thread I posted my settings I use that I calibrated using the Avia disk. Either way, I wouldn't worry too much about it. :)

Same here, I tried the <= 50% settings for the first week that I owned the tv, but then after hearing conflicting methods and timeframes for the break-in period, I decided to call Philips support. The support tech indicated that there is no special break-in period for the tv. He basically told me that as long as I used common sense, I should not have any burn-in problems. He also said that image retention would be minimal and would quickly go away. Ever since then I have set the contrast to something like 66 and have not had any problems whatsoever.

I have just received and hooked up an HDMI to DVI cable along with a digital audio cable. The digital audio cable is plugged into the connection on the bottom near the HDMI inputs and the HDMI 1 is connected to a DVI port on a MOXI cable box. The other end of the digital audio cable is also plugged into the MOXI box. I am receiving a video signal, but no audio at all. Does anyone have any ideas what I may be doing wrong?

Thanks in advance,
Steve

If you mean the S/PDIF optical cable, I think you have to specify which input you are using it with in the setup menu. Also make sure you have it plugged into the "input" and not the "output" - quite honestly using optical to the tv in and of itself is overkill. If you have a surround system, just run the audio into that and bypass the tv altogether.

I have just received and hooked up an HDMI to DVI cable along with a digital audio cable. The digital audio cable is plugged into the connection on the bottom near the HDMI inputs and the HDMI 1 is connected to a DVI port on a MOXI cable box. The other end of the digital audio cable is also plugged into the MOXI box. I am receiving a video signal, but no audio at all. Does anyone have any ideas what I may be doing wrong?

Thanks in advance,
Steve
The digital audio connection on the bottom near the HDMI input is a "digitial audio ouput." There is a "digital audio input" on the AV1/AV2/AV3 back panel. If it still doesnt work, then I would check your MOXI box (not familiar with this device) and make sure the settings are switched to allow digital audio out.

There were some questions in the past about connecting an OTA antenna and Analog Cable to the single RF input.

While this can be done with an A/B switch, the software doesn't play ball.

The only way to switch between the two is to go through the Installation menu and have it autoprogram the channels again. Well, this takes a while - and you lose your Favorites settings too.

I called Philips about this, and they confirmed it. Same deal if you use CabelCard.

IMO, this sucks.

This is the exact question I came here for. My Mother-in-law has this setup and I just couldnt figure out how to get the box to remember both sets of channels if I used an A/B switch. What a sucky design.

This is the exact question I came here for. My Mother-in-law has this setup and I just couldnt figure out how to get the box to remember both sets of channels if I used an A/B switch. What a sucky design.

Workaround here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=634473&page=5&pp=30&highlight=50pf7220a

Thanks for the advice, now it is working!

Just purchased this model, as it was onsale here in Florida at both CC and Sears. I was hoping that the QAM tuner would pick up Cox Cable's HD offerings and ... it does. This is great for me since I only have basic analog cable from cox, but I'm now getting the local HD channels (NBC,CBS,UPN,PBS,+) for free by simply plugging cox's coax into the RF input.

I second what others have said regarding PQ: The HD channels look great and the blacks look very good from my bed (though of course I don't have a panny right next to it to compare against ...) -- my wife is loving watching the olympics in HD; the SD channels look crappy.

What r some of ur settings for ur tv (color, contrast, etc.)? List them here. Also, does any one use dynamic contrast and the other settings u can put on maximum or minimum. I cant think of them right now. But do people use those settings.

What r some of ur settings for ur tv (color, contrast, etc.)? List them here. Also, does any one use dynamic contrast and the other settings u can put on maximum or minimum. I cant think of them right now. But do people use those settings.

Here is what mine are set to right now - I'm always tweaking them a little bit based on what I'm watching.

Contrast 58
Brightness 53
Color 37
Sharpness 3
Color Temp Cool
Digital Processing Pixel Plus
Dynamic Contrast Medium
DNR Off
Color Enhancement ON
Tint -5
Active Control OFF

There are other posted setting throughout this thread. I can't decide if I like the the dynamic contrast or not. It gives better blacks but you also seem to lose a little detail. I haven't seen any benefit with the Active Control (maybe a little with an OTA SD signal). Try them and let me know what you think and please post what you end up using.

Tiga

Here is what mine are set to right now - I'm always tweaking them a little bit based on what I'm watching.

Contrast 58
Brightness 53
Color 37
Sharpness 3
Color Temp Cool
Digital Processing Pixel Plus
Dynamic Contrast Medium
DNR Off
Color Enhancement ON
Tint -5
Active Control OFF

There are other posted setting throughout this thread. I can't decide if I like the the dynamic contrast or not. It gives better blacks but you also seem to lose a little detail. I haven't seen any benefit with the Active Control (maybe a little with an OTA SD signal). Try them and let me know what you think and please post what you end up using.

Tiga

Thx for posting ur settings. I hope more people post their settings also so I can try them out. I really like ur settings. It gives the picture a more real look to it. Its not to bright but just enough to make it look nice. I did not change anything. It looks good the way it is. thx again I was never a big fan of the active control either.

Hello All,
New to the site and to the 42PF7320A. I have had no issues thus far and am quite pleased with the PQ. However, after I upgraded to the latest firmware, I noticed that the Autopicture ALWAYS defaults to the 'Soft' setting. I would like it to always default to 'Personal'. Even though it mentions that the TV will default to the last used setting (which I made sure was Personal), it always defaults to 'Soft' for my HDMI2 input. I am not sure if this happened before the firmware upgrade.

Has anyone else experienced this?

Digital cable set top - HDMI 2
Progressive Scan DVD - AVI 1


Thanks,
Martin

If I remembered correctly, this issue has been discussed here or on 9630A thread.

If the label of an input is set to 'STB' (Set Top Box), TV will switch to 'Soft'
each and every time.

Solution: Change the label to something else in the list.

:)

great, I'll give it a try. Thanks for the info!

I called customer care and they gave me some BS answer saying that the digital set top handles all of the settings.

If I remembered correctly, this issue has been discussed here or on 9630A thread.

If the label of an input is set to 'STB' (Set Top Box), TV will switch to 'Soft'
each and every time.

Solution: Change the label to something else in the list.

:)

If I remembered correctly, this issue has been discussed here or on 9630A thread.

If the label of an input is set to 'STB' (Set Top Box), TV will switch to 'Soft'
each and every time.

Solution: Change the label to something else in the list.

:)

Thanks! I set HDMI1 to "cable" instead of "STB" and now the TV actually remembers the previous settings! Now why don't they document this "feature" in the instruction manual? Between this problem and the black screen issue, I'm ready to take this TV back to Costco.

Thanks! I set HDMI1 to "cable" instead of "STB" and now the TV actually remembers the previous settings! Now why don't they document this "feature" in the instruction manual? Between this problem and the black screen issue, I'm ready to take this TV back to Costco.

Hey Johnny;

After you installed your firmware upgrade, did you unplug the TV for a minimum of 2 minutes. According to Philips tech support, this resets the TV. After I installed the upgrade I was still having the black screen problem. A call to Philips put me in touch with some guy who told me to unplug the TV for 2 minutes. Believe me, I had my doubts about this working!! To my surprise, my black screen issue hasn't come back yet. My fingers are crossed!

Did you call Philips to advise them of your problem? The more people who hound them, the more likely they will get tired of paying for service techs and fix this if it is in fact a software problem.

Hey Johnny;

After you installed your firmware upgrade, did you unplug the TV for a minimum of 2 minutes. According to Philips tech support, this resets the TV. After I installed the upgrade I was still having the black screen problem. A call to Philips put me in touch with some guy who told me to unplug the TV for 2 minutes. Believe me, I had my doubts about this working!! To my surprise, my black screen issue hasn't come back yet. My fingers are crossed!

Did you call Philips to advise them of your problem? The more people who hound them, the more likely they will get tired of paying for service techs and fix this if it is in fact a software problem.

No, I didn't call tech support. I will try unplugging the set tonight. How often did you get the problem? I've seen it maybe 4 or 5 times in over 200 hours of operation.

Prior to my installing the latest upgrade about 1 1/2 weeks ago, I started to get the black screen problem once or twice an evening and it started to get worse. At one point, my TV dropped the video and audio for about 1 minute. I couldn't power it off with the remote... NOTHING. That is when I called tech support.

You should do the same (call them). The more complaints they get, the more they will realize this is a very real problem and fix it. Be prepared... they are going to tell you things like 'Hmmmm, that is strange. Do you have the latest firmware? Unplug the TV for 2 minutes. If this doesn't work, you are going to have to call a technician". Just go through the motions as I am sure they have a department that reviews the nature of the calls coming in. At least I hope so. Thankfully, this was a Costco purchase and I am putting my receipt in a safety deposit box. lol

Something else that is weird... just like your problem with the menu on the Star Wars III DVD, I noticed that my black screen issue was most repeatable on the station WTBS. It seemed that when one of those blue or green commercials advertising 'Everybody Loves Raymod' on WTBS would come on, I would get the black screen. I told the tech this, but he just brushed it off. Someone else here was saying that they thought it was also related to the video signal coming in... a few pages back.

No one told me to unplug for 2 mintues...lol...what a joke. The newest firmware actually altered my black screen problem. Before, I used to get a black screen maybe once every 2-3 days and it would last maybe 7-10 seconds. Now with the upgrade (of course I didnt unplug my set yet), I get the black screen maybe once every 2-3 days but it will last 2 seconds, come back on and go in and out another 4-5 times, and then the "episode" is over...gotta love technology! I'm going to unplug the set and see if that works.

I am anxious to hear about what happens after you unplug/reset the TV. The firmware upgrade is actually what made my black screen issue worse as well. After unplugging it for the recommended 2 minutes, though... it hasn't resurfaced again.

So if my mom and have 1.08 firmware do you think I should upgrade it to 1.13? I don't want to take the blame for anything acting up afterwards. Does it improve the picture?

Also question two, do any of you have any reservations watching a letterbox movie and not stretching it leaving the blacks bars on the top and bottom?

I would load the new firmware. I would also watch letterbox movies with the black bars on occasion if this is what you prefer.

I agree with JohnnyTL, better to keep your set up to date with the latest firmware. My problems existed straight out of the box. I assume you are worried about burn in with the black bars...this should not be a problem unless you are watching multiple movies in a row, burn in will not occur after only a few hours. I was told by a tech, that burn in will occur if a constant image is displayed for many days. I think when plasma's were new to the market, store showrooms weren't aware of burn in, and had constant images displayed for days upon days. Just my 2 cents...

I agree with your burn in comments. As long as a good mix of TV is viewed, I don't worry about watching any format, nor playing PS2 etc.

i have v1.08 and i've been weary about upgrading... i've pretty much had 0 problems with the set so far. Think i experienced the black screen a total of once in the two months i've owned it, and it only lasted a coupla seconds.

I"m on the most current firmware - to be honest, I don't even know what the infamous "black screen" issue is, so ...... I guess I'm ok.

Well, I've had my replacement TV for a week now and I got the black screen last night while watching a South Park movie(Passion of the Jew). It occured twice during the 3 episodes on the DVD.
The TV stays on and the screen blacks out for about 5-10 seconds than comes back on.

I've watched 3 DVD prior to this and they all were OK.

Maybe it's because it's a cartoon and the colors make the TV confused...?...dunno.


I'm still running the v1.08 firmware(which came with the TV) for now until there is some feedback that the new FW resolves specific issues. I don't see the black screen issue listed as a confirmed patch/fix on the latest FW releases.

BX23U-1.0.13.0_01441
Following problems are solved :
• handling of 5-digit subchannel numbers
• Picture quality: occasional green borders
Following changes are introduced :
• selective filtering of scrambled channels during automatic installation

BX23U-1.0.11.0_01171
Following problem is solved :
• Philips DTV got exception reset when waking up for download with Cable card setup
• Philips DTV switching channel while recording during download with OTA+Cable box

BX23U-1.0.11.0_01161
Following problem is solved :
• The Guide not preserving data at shutdown

BX23U-1.0.10.0_01151
Following problems are solved :
• Set doesn't wake up for download

BX23U-1.0.9.0 00851
Addition of feature :
• Gemstar feature has been added to the release. This has to be used for Gemstar Model Approval
Following problem is fixed:
• POD card movement detection has been made more robust.

.

I agree the info on the firmware release makes no mention about fixing the black screen problem. However, my Auhtorized Service Tech was told by Philips that the recent software update fixes that problem. I've done as MacroProd told, unplug the set, but its too early to tell if its worked for me. I'll post again in a week with an update.

Hmmm.. Infocus X1 projectors had a similiar problem for a while with bright white scenes - caused, as per Infocus, by out-of-spec video signal from the source. They released firmware that (mostly) fixes the problem.

The reference to it occuring on the bright SW EpIII scene makes me think this is perhaps something similiar.

I advise trying a different DVD player if you have one available. Test the same spot and see if it also occurs on the different player.

OK, I watched SAW II last night and encountered the black screen at track/scence 11 at 46:52.

During this time in the moive, the picture changes to a simulated white noise/snow on the picture fade away. Perhaps the TV thinks the cable/picture has been remove and shuts the screen off until a know valid picture is detected ?

I know the screen will black out if the cable is unplugged so this has me wondering if the TV is getting confused on certain pictures/screens on the TV.

Now this is odd...
I was able to reproduce this 3 times then now, it's like the TV figured out that part/time was an actual picture and no longer does the black screen at that part.
I even waited over night and tried again and no dice.

Q:
Is the firmware dyanamic and learns about pictures/screens as time goes on ?

So, from what I can tell, this seems to be an issue with the TV believing that an invalid/bad picuture is detected or no picture at all and blacks out the screen.

Perhaps in the new firmware or maybe in a future release, they will fix this 100%.

It seems that may the firmware needs to be a little more intelligent when it comes to certain pictures on the screen.

I haven't had the black screen return again, but I am sure it may happen. The only hope we have of Philips fixing this is if we as consumers call them with the same problem each time it happens until they fix it. We can't assume 'the other guy' is going to make the call. We also can't assume that Philips will somehow come across this forum and read our complaints.

If it happens to me again, I'll be calling.

FWIW, I've watched Saw II on my tv and had no problems. I use an Oppo DV971H upconverting DVD player.

Got the ole black screen again. This time using the cable box on HDMI AND the new firmware.

I just picked up this TV last night from Sam's Club. Mine came with the 1.0.8 software installed. Everything is working just about perfectly.

The only issue is I am unable to select the Preferred Channels option from the menu to delete some encrypted channels that the autoprogram picked up. Is anyone else having that problem? When I used the cursor button on the remote and press down to select that option it wont let me choose that option.

I can see that the latest update apparently stops the autoprogram from adding those encrypted channels to your channel list. It doesnt say anyting about fixing the problem I am having though..

I just picked up this TV last night from Sam's Club. Mine came with the 1.0.8 software installed. Everything is working just about perfectly.

The only issue is I am unable to select the Preferred Channels option from the menu to delete some encrypted channels that the autoprogram picked up. Is anyone else having that problem? When I used the cursor button on the remote and press down to select that option it wont let me choose that option.

I can see that the latest update apparently stops the autoprogram from adding those encrypted channels to your channel list. It doesnt say anyting about fixing the problem I am having though..


I think you press the right arrow to get to the channels then the center button or "OK" to uncheck the preferred channel ..

Well I'll be traveling to my mom and dad's to look at this TV in the next couple of days. My brother physically set it up, but only did one thing in the menu and that's what I told him, and it was turn the Contrast down to 50% and compensate by upping the brightness. They will have their 100 hours in, so I'm curious to see what I can do with their settings and a DVE disk I have. Right now (they're 80 btw) their probably 13-14ft away and they say they can't tell the difference between regular DISH local channels and HD locals ..uhmm, but they like the TV saying 'it's oh so clear and how can you improve on this". I noted some of the forum's users settings. I know they could benefit from a different arrangement which would bring the viewing distance down to 10-12 ft, but it will be hard convincing mom.

My dad is having a little trouble hearing the words and bass on TV, so I guess I will be fiddling with the sound settings (any suggestions?). I doubt that you can easily add a center channel (via digital out maybe?), cause I doubt they'll want to invest in a surround sound (it's too high fangled for them).

Is any micro-fiber cloth good or would a 100% cotten t-shirt work just as well? and I told them to use distilled water to clean it off.

Any other suggestions will be helpful. TIA

I used these settings which I read another forum member used. My picture looks great.

Contrast: 66
Brightness: 44
Color: 45
Sharpness: 2
Color Temp: Normal
Digital Processing: Pixel Plus
Dynamic Contrast: Medium
DNR: Medium
Color Enhancement: On
Tint: -5
Active Control: Off