Which prob were you having? preferred loss? favorites loss? total channelectomy?

PhiPhan I know barely an ounce of code, but it seems I could learn it faster than they can solve a problem with something they created.
One thing is clear from past experience: if the firmware were open-source it would not only be fixed but tweaked as hell by now.

Never underestimate the power of geeks with spare time.

When it's a passion you kick butt at it; when it's your job you slack off and play games.
(not any you personally, the generic you, myself included)

Mike

Sorry to repeat, but for those not following the 9630 threads,
firmware 1.5 is up...
and it still sucks.
I still get the digital channel drop; someone else reports the favorites issue persists.
I am so glad I wasted another month waiting on the loser Philips software developers.

So, déjà vü, stick to 1.0.13 or 1.1.

Mike


Where is it up? I don't see it on the Philips support page.

Great.....how long have you had the set ?

Since February.

Where is it up? I don't see it on the Philips support page.
It is up right where it should be up; it's just that it is still labelled as August - typical.
If you open the pdf readme, you will see 1.5 as the newest on page 3.
If you download the zipped upg, you get the new 1.5, even though the page says August.

Mike

I just switched from component to HDMI on my DVD but now I noticed that I only get two options for Format on the TV.
Auto
Widescreen

Now, depending on the ratio of the Widescreen format of the DVD, I get the following:

1. True movie widescreen format - Only fills 2/3 of the screen with movie/picture in the middle with 2inch blackbars on bottom/top. That's 4inchs of blackbars total.

Switching to Auto vs Widescreen format on the TV made no difference. It's like the movie has this locked in place or the TV can not adjust in Auto format. I watched TeladagaNights last night and the Format did not effect the picture.

2. If 16:9 ratio widescreen, fills the entire screen and I can stretch it with Auto format.
Same with 4:3/Fullscreen movies.

Q:
Is there a hack or away to get a true Widescreen movie to fill the entire screen or get some adjustments ?

When I used Component, I would watch movies in either Widescreen or Super zoom(which left about 1inch blackbars on bottom/top. only 2inchs total of blackbars).

I basically want to use as much screen as possible and I feel like when I see about 4inchs total of blackbars on the screen that I'm not getting my money(or entire viewing screen) worth.

AUTOMATIC isn't stretching it both ways to get rid of black bars ????

I don't have HDMI yet so this is new to me, plus I have a different model.

I installed the new1.5.0.0 firmware successfully today. It solved my favorites and preferred channels from disappearing when the set was powered off and back on. That was my last gripe. Everything seems good now.
1 vote for firmware 1.5.0.0

I installed the new1.5.0.0 firmware successfully today. It solved my favorites and preferred channels from disappearing when the set was powered off and back on. That was my last gripe. Everything seems good now.
1 vote for firmware 1.5.0.0

Thanks for the info! I was wondering if 1.5 fixed the disappearing channels problem...

I just switched from component to HDMI on my DVD but now I noticed that I only get two options for Format on the TV.
Auto
Widescreen

Now, depending on the ratio of the Widescreen format of the DVD, I get the following:

1. True movie widescreen format - Only fills 2/3 of the screen with movie/picture in the middle with 2inch blackbars on bottom/top. That's 4inchs of blackbars total.

Switching to Auto vs Widescreen format on the TV made no difference. It's like the movie has this locked in place or the TV can not adjust in Auto format. I watched TeladagaNights last night and the Format did not effect the picture.

2. If 16:9 ratio widescreen, fills the entire screen and I can stretch it with Auto format.
Same with 4:3/Fullscreen movies.

Q:
Is there a hack or away to get a true Widescreen movie to fill the entire screen or get some adjustments ?

When I used Component, I would watch movies in either Widescreen or Super zoom(which left about 1inch blackbars on bottom/top. only 2inchs total of blackbars).

I basically want to use as much screen as possible and I feel like when I see about 4inchs total of blackbars on the screen that I'm not getting my money(or entire viewing screen) worth.
I had the same problem. From what I recall, I just went into the input options and changed HDMI1 from DVD to HD or some other input, aand the tv showed all the various picture settings after that. See what looks best to you.

The only problem I still have is overscan in widescreen mode. Setting it to automatic pulled the sides back in, but later it stretches out the top and bottom of the widescreen image. That's what you're going for though, isn't it?

I had the same problem. From what I recall, I just went into the input options and changed HDMI1 from DVD to HD or some other input, aand the tv showed all the various picture settings after that. See what looks best to you.

So you're saying just what HDMI is listed as being hooked up to -- not what it may or may not be hooked up to -- allows you all the Format choices? Similar to changing AV1 to anything other than DIGITAL STB so it remembers the picture settings?

I don't know why Philips can't fix these glitches....ridiculous....they're just designations in the menu, not changes to real connections. :mad:

More stuff for my Letter ! ;)

I had the same problem. From what I recall, I just went into the input options and changed HDMI1 from DVD to HD or some other input, aand the tv showed all the various picture settings after that. See what looks best to you.

The only problem I still have is overscan in widescreen mode. Setting it to automatic pulled the sides back in, but later it stretches out the top and bottom of the widescreen image. That's what you're going for though, isn't it?

I'll see if changing the HDMI input label to HD from DVD makes any difference(gives me more Format options) but I should note that my AV1 is componet in from my Comcast STB and I get all Format selections for all channels except HD. When I have an HD/720p channel on my TV, I only get Auto and Widescreen format selections using the same AV1 input.


I think the source on the HDMI or AV1(if HD) must tell the TV what formats it's allowed to support... dunno


I did some testing last night and the Auto seems to work. You need to switch from WS to Auto then wait for the Format menu option to clear from the screen then it stretches the picture.
But I don't like the way it looks on Auto. It seems to stretch the picture verticly making people and other things look tall/long face/distorted.

I prefer to use the Super Zoom because it does stretch a little to cover more screen area but not enough that the picutre is distorted that it looks odd.
It leaves about an inch of blackbars on top and bottom at most.

Thanks for the info! I was wondering if 1.5 fixed the disappearing channels problem...
In the 1.5 readme file, what does it state it fixed/enhanced ?

I'll see if changing the HDMI input label to HD from DVD makes any difference(gives me more Format options) but I should note that my AV1 is componet in from my Comcast STB and I get all Format selections for all channels except HD. When I have an HD/720p channel on my TV, I only get Auto and Widescreen format selections using the same AV1 input.

On HD channels, you should only have AUTOMATIC and WIDESCREEN. If the picture is broadcast in 16:9, then they should look exactly the same. All other Format options should be grayed-out.

On an HD channel, anything broadcast in 4:3 will show up as such if you switch to WIDESCREEN (unless it has bars as part of the picture, like ESPN-HD).

This is how it works on my 9631 with component cables. ;)

If I have a green bar down the right side of my screen while watching a DVD via HDMI....I've heard that I can just use the cursor on the remote to shift the screen/image...

Is it really that easy to fix?

I'll see if changing the HDMI input label to HD from DVD makes any difference(gives me more Format options) but I should note that my AV1 is componet in from my Comcast STB and I get all Format selections for all channels except HD. When I have an HD/720p channel on my TV, I only get Auto and Widescreen format selections using the same AV1 input.


I think the source on the HDMI or AV1(if HD) must tell the TV what formats it's allowed to support... dunno


I did some testing last night and the Auto seems to work. You need to switch from WS to Auto then wait for the Format menu option to clear from the screen then it stretches the picture.
But I don't like the way it looks on Auto. It seems to stretch the picture verticly making people and other things look tall/long face/distorted.

I prefer to use the Super Zoom because it does stretch a little to cover more screen area but not enough that the picutre is distorted that it looks odd.
It leaves about an inch of blackbars on top and bottom at most.
Auto actually looks decent on DVDs with high quality transfers (I tested Memento and it looked great), but it does make things like cars and buildings look tall and skinny.

In the 1.5 readme file, what does it state it fixed/enhanced ?
-Availability Cablecard Channel Map
-Improved Info In Service Menu
-Improved Picture Quality And Stablity On HDMI
-Installation Of Channels

Did they take it off the website? I got the info above from the FAQ, but the site only lists the previous firmware.

Anyway, I installed it last night and noticed no real improvements (still can't get digital channels either).

Word of warning: If you don't need the firmware update I would suggest staying far away from it. It installed fine and my TV worked good for 24 hours. I went to turn it on today and it wouldn't turn on and I got a red flashing light. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and tried again and got the same red light. I then unplugged it again, plugged it back in and it finally turned on. I have no clue if this is related to the new firmware or is purely a coincidence. My TV is out of warranty so I'm hoping this is firmware related. At the same time I'm a bit nervous even trying to roll back to the previous firmware. :(

Edit: I checked out the error log in the CSM menu. I got error 63. In the service manual it states error 63 means the PDP Display is failing. The TV is working fine now so it's weird the PDP display would fail at one time and suddenly work the next.

If I have a green bar down the right side of my screen while watching a DVD via HDMI....I've heard that I can just use the cursor on the remote to shift the screen/image... Is it really that easy to fix?

Yeah, but how far from the sides is the green line? The toggle can only shift stuff over maybe 2", tops.

I think others had this problem. I get a purplish line with components on my 9631 but it is with just one channel that's HD/digital but is broadcast 4:3. So I knew it wasn't a TV thing.

Use the toggle on the remote and report back. If this is firmware related and it isn't fixable by toggling, use component cables until Philips gives us an upgrade.

Word of warning: If you don't need the firmware update I would suggest staying far away from it. It installed fine and my TV worked good for 24 hours. I went to turn it on today and it wouldn't turn out and I got a red flashing light. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and tried again and got the same red light. I then unplugged it again, plugged it back in and it finally turned on. I have no clue if this is related to the new firmware or is purely a coincidence. My TV is out of warranty so I'm hoping this is firmware related. At the same time I'm a bit nervous even trying to roll back to the previous firmware. :(

I think a 9630 owner got something similar.

Can you un-install the firmware? Use the Manual Upgrade method if the TV is on, AUTOMATIC if it shuts off.

Remember: USB sticks should not be HUGE storage-wise and should only have Philips upgrades on them. A 128-mybte stick from CompUSA has solved some upgrade problems for others and I recommend it.

Thanks for the response. I used a 128MB stick to install the upgrade. The odd thing is it installed fine. After 24 hours of normal behavior it then experienced the error when I tried turning it on. It would be interesting to hear from those of you who had problems with the firmware. For example, what error code did they get? Here's how that information is obtained:

1. Press 123654 on the remote control (This enters CSM mode. It doesn't make any changes to your TV and is completely safe to enter.)
2. Under "Code 1" you'll see something like "00 00 00 00 00". If it's all zeros it means no errors. If you see something like "63 00 00 00 00" it means you got error 63 last. If it's "63 03 00 00 00" It means both error 63 and 3 happened. Error 3 happened before error 63. Etc...

-Availability Cablecard Channel Map
-Improved Info In Service Menu
-Improved Picture Quality And Stablity On HDMI
-Installation Of Channels

Did they take it off the website? I got the info above from the FAQ, but the site only lists the previous firmware.

Anyway, I installed it last night and noticed no real improvements (still can't get digital channels either).

If you would get a digital stb from Comcast finally, you would get digital channels, infact that is the only way you will get digital service now. Infact you actually never got digital to begin with, the channels used to be there because they were broadcast in analog format but, now that Comcast is broadcasting in true digital format you will no longer get them without the digital converter box. I had a digital converter from Comcast for a year but only received analog signals until the update to digital. One way I knew that is because when I set the input format to digital stb I would not retain my personal picture settings, it would default back to soft format cause the signal was not digital. It states this in the Philips users manual. Now that it is true digital I can set the input to digital stb and the tv retains my personal settings at start up.
Your digital concerns are not a software problem or the tv's fault and the tv's tuner can only broadcast the signal it receives, like I stated before. If you spent as much time calling or going to Comcast and getting the much said stb as you did on this forum you would be in digital (HD) heaven by now !!! :) :) :)

If I have a green bar down the right side of my screen while watching a DVD via HDMI....I've heard that I can just use the cursor on the remote to shift the screen/image...

Is it really that easy to fix?

Yes it is , give it a try

I had the same problem. From what I recall, I just went into the input options and changed HDMI1 from DVD to HD or some other input, aand the tv showed all the various picture settings after that. See what looks best to you.


The Source options to change from DVD, HD, Cable,Other, etc is just a label and doesn't effect anything.

If I go to the HDMI source while the DVD player is off, all of my Format options are available but soon as the DVD is turned on, only Auto and Widescreen are valid and all others are grayed out.

Also, the HDMI interface must have some sort of handshaking because my DVD player switches off HDMI mode if I select another source on the TV and soon as I go to the HDMI source, the HDMI LED on the DVD comes on.

So, it looks like that perhaps there's something in the signalling that tells the TV what formats it can support/allow. This also seems to be true for HD cable channels.

One way I knew that is because when I set the input format to digital stb I would not retain my personal picture settings, it would default back to soft format cause the signal was not digital. It states this in the Philips users manual)

I think it doesn't hold it , though -- at least not in the newer plasmas. From the Tips Sheet:

"If you use HDMI as your SOURCE and call it "Digital STB" or some other items, I think it keeps defaulting to SOFT as the picture setting. Since most of us use PERSONAL, this is annoying. Setting HDMI to "PVR" (or maybe even other designations) seems to fix this glitch."

I think it doesn't hold it , though -- at least not in the newer plasmas. From the Tips Sheet:

"If you use HDMI as your SOURCE and call it "Digital STB" or some other items, I think it keeps defaulting to SOFT as the picture setting. Since most of us use PERSONAL, this is annoying. Setting HDMI to "PVR" (or maybe even other designations) seems to fix this glitch."

It holds your personal setting as long as it is a true digital signal. I used to put the setting on cable to hold my settings because digital stb setting would not hold the personal settings it would default back to soft. Now that I get true digital signal I can set the digital stb and it will hold my personal settings. It didn't matter whether I used hdmi (digital) or component which is analog before the digital update, it always would default back to soft, but only on digital stb, all other settings would retain my personal settings.

There seems to be a lot of complications with new technology and any high- end digital tv's. Things were much more simple with the old crt's, plug and play if you know what I mean :rolleyes: We all seem to spend a lot of time trying to figure out this and that to get the full benifits of our tv's, but it all seems worth the efforts :)

Also, I think these new type of tv's are a little ahead of their time and content signals have not caught up to them just yet. I do know since Comcast upgraded to full digital and HD in my area, I have been fully enjoying the true quality of what my Philips has to offer. No more fussing with stuff like I used to do. Now I turn on the tv and watch whatever I want with no problems. :)

First, I read through this entire thread and appreciate the effort that everyone has put into this so far.

I bought a refurb from Philips Outlet and rec'd on 12-7. On Sunday my set developed a case of the BS issue...bad. Philips CS advised to upgrade to firmware 1.5 to resolve the issue.

The set had version 1.3 already on it. I upgraded to 1.5 last night, and had the set on for 4 1/2 hours without a problem (Woo Hoo...knock on wood). Hopefully it is fixed.

When I updated the firmware it went through the first 2 lines no problem. It got to the end of the 3rd line for "Programming Update", and gave an error along the lines of "Programming Error! Please retry procedure or contact dealer". I checked the software version now on the TV and it shows version 1.5 installed.

My question is this. Did the set actually upgrade to version 1.5 ? Bonus Question... What does this error mean?

Any help is greatly appreciated. The info in this thread has been invaluable in helping me cope with this sudden setback in my first step into the Wonderful World of HD.

My question is this. Did the set actually upgrade to version 1.5 ? Bonus Question... What does this error mean?

Yes, if the software OSM says it is version 1.5, it loaded.

Lately, successful upgrades seem to get error messages. I would ignore it.

BTW, there's useful information and comments on the newer Philips plasma threads (9630, 9631) and even occassionally on the LCD threads -- you might want to stay close to those, too.

Congrats on the TV purchase and happy HDTV viewing. :)

Thanks for the reply. I'll have to check out the other threads for any useful info

Greetings,

I was wondering if anybody out there, with this Philips Plasma has hooked up and played with a Playstation 3 via HDMI? I know the PS3 supports HDMI 1.3, so it makes me wondering what I will get... BTW, it is a xmas gift for my son (and me :D ) and I have not yet opened the PS3, so any info is appreciated.

Thanks,
-Brian

Hi Brian, This is Brian....I have a PS3 hooked up to my Philips 42PF7320A via HDMI and I couldn't be happier minus one thing--I seem to have a problem whereas when I load into a game from the PS3 menu or load into a Blu-Ray Movie from my PS3 menu, the screen flickers from a black screen to a static screen maybe 4 or 5 times before it displays the loading game/movie. Has anyone had this problem b4? I also find I get it with my JVC HTIB when I play regular dvd's through HDMI onto the Philips--it's annoying but eaisly dealable.

All-in-all the PS3 looks beautiful on the Philips--watch Kingdom of Heaven on Blu-Ray and you'll be hooked on the format too. :)

Brian,

Thanks for the reply. I have had issues with my Samsung HDMI connected DVD upconvertor (with flashing green static), but I am hoping replacing my DVI to HDMI cable. which has a DVI-HDMI adatper on one end) with a normal HDMI-HDMI cable will correct that issue. I got 2 of these cables (one for the PS3) and I am going to install and see if this helps the green issue I have seen. While not excatly what you get, maybe it is related.

I will update what happens soon.

Thanks again for the great news!

-Brian

I just switched from component to HDMI on my DVD but now I noticed that I only get two options for Format on the TV.
Auto
Widescreen

Now, depending on the ratio of the Widescreen format of the DVD, I get the following:

1. True movie widescreen format - Only fills 2/3 of the screen with movie/picture in the middle with 2inch blackbars on bottom/top. That's 4inchs of blackbars total.

Switching to Auto vs Widescreen format on the TV made no difference. It's like the movie has this locked in place or the TV can not adjust in Auto format. I watched TeladagaNights last night and the Format did not effect the picture.

2. If 16:9 ratio widescreen, fills the entire screen and I can stretch it with Auto format.
Same with 4:3/Fullscreen movies.

Q:
Is there a hack or away to get a true Widescreen movie to fill the entire screen or get some adjustments ?

When I used Component, I would watch movies in either Widescreen or Super zoom(which left about 1inch blackbars on bottom/top. only 2inchs total of blackbars).

I basically want to use as much screen as possible and I feel like when I see about 4inchs total of blackbars on the screen that I'm not getting my money(or entire viewing screen) worth.

The reason all the screen options were available to you when using component is because that is an analog signal. Upgrading to the HDMI connection is purely digital and hence only auto and widescreen are available. I dont know what DVD player you are using but on my Sony DVP NS90V when I upconvert over HDMI I have the same screen format available that you do. I prefer auto and it fills the screen.

Thanks for the info! I was wondering if 1.5 fixed the disappearing channels problem...

FYI - 1.5 does NOT fix the disappearing preferred channels problem. I'll be going back to 1.1 until Philips fixes this annoying issue...

I just wanted to add my tale of woe to the others. I was one of the poor fools who bought not one but two refurbs from the Philips Outlet when they ran the special. I picked up a 50PF7220A and a 42PF7320A. I’ve had no problems with the 50" so far. However, the 42" failed after the 90-day warranty lapsed.

I was watching the news when I saw what looked like red or pink fireworks on the screen...then blackness. I’ve powered the set off and on but still nothing. The green LED lights but the set would power itself off after a minute or two.

I called Philips customer service and …(insert anti-Philips rant here)…they referred me to a local repair shop. The local shop stated that their up front repair charges would include the cost of a replacement board at $1000 which I’d have to buy whether I needed it or not. Even at that, they declined to touch a Philips TV that was out of warranty.

Last night, after reading through a lot of this thread, I tried upgrading the firmware via USB to the latest on Philips' site without the ability to see anything on the screen. While the upgrade was presumably proceeding, I once again saw ‘fireworks’ on the screen. But something must have gone wrong because now when the set is powered on, all I get is a Black Screen and 7 quick flashes of the red LED followed by a 3 second pause after which the cycle repeats. I've consulted the Service Manual but still can't seem to determine what 7 quick red flashes means. I think it means a +8V6 power error. Can someone smarter confirm this?

Is it worth repairing? Best Buy says they'll come diagnose it for $90 and cap their labor charges at an additional $170 if I do decide to fix it. But I'd be on the hook for the cost of any required parts. I paid just under $1100 for the TV.

Anyone know the approximate cost of an SSB board or replacement power supply? For any folks who've had to pay for repairs out of pocket, how much did it cost?

I am sorry to hear about your problem. I don't blame you for being upset, and it should be a warning to others who are tempted by the Philips outlet deals. (Although their latest "deals" are not really competitive.) With the recent drop in LCD/plasma prices, I figured that if mine went bad, it would not be worth fixing.

42" plasmas were going for about $1800 when I bought mine at ~$1100. I thought that $700 savings was enough to take a risk on the 90 day warranty. I hope to get three years out of this TV, but I am not optimistic.

When I looked at new sets, LG seemed to have the best warranty at 3 years.

I 2nd that thought...stay away from the outlet deals...in fact, it pays to stick with Philips top-of-the-line models with their most advanced features. They seem to be made best and get the most attention to quality control and customer support. I own the 42" 9631.

[QUOTE=mrobiwan

Is it worth repairing? Best Buy says they'll come diagnose it for $90 and cap their labor charges at an additional $170 if I do decide to fix it. But I'd be on the hook for the cost of any required parts. I paid just under $1100 for the TV.

Anyone know the approximate cost of an SSB board or replacement power supply? For any folks who've had to pay for repairs out of pocket, how much did it cost?[/QUOTE]

Sounds like that first shop isnt very consumer friendly! The folks at Best Buy seem a LOT more reasonable, maybe they can quote you the price on the parts as well?

FYI - I was at Office Depot yesterday, shopping for office furniture, when I noticed a Philips 42" 9631 for sale at $999. I didn't even know Office Depot sold TVs, and I was shocked at the price.

Just another sign that the prices continue to drop quickly...

Edit - they are selling a 42" 7321 on their website at a higher price. I'm not positive on the model number at my local store; I didn't take a good look.

According to Consumer Reports, Philips tvs have the worst record when it comes to quality. I paid $2300 for mine, and even after repairs and firmware upgrades, I wouldn't be surprised if it conked out again after the warranty period. The features make up for some of the headaches, but in terms of longevity, Panasonics are probably a better deal.

On the other hand I paid <$2000 for mine, have had it over a year now, done every firmware upgrade and had zero problems at all. I love my plasma.

According to Consumer Reports, Philips tvs have the worst record when it comes to quality. I paid $2300 for mine, and even after repairs and firmware upgrades, I wouldn't be surprised if it conked out again after the warranty period. The features make up for some of the headaches, but in terms of longevity, Panasonics are probably a better deal.

An example of 'survivor bias' -- most of the anectdotal problems arise from years ago when Philips was one of the few plasma makers. Since they had then (and still do today) a large market share, it stands to reason that they'd have lots of repairs. The sets were a bigger problem then and many less-sophisticated people bought Philips as opposed to Pioneer or Fujitsu, etc.

Take a look at the threads here on AVS....I see plenty of problems for non-Philips models including some problems that Philips NEVER gets.

I'm not saying their quality control can't stand improvement -- it can (and I rip them in my corporate letter). But this notion that Philips has lousy quality and everyone else makes stuff that you can just plug-in-and-enjoy is 100% crapola.

If you would get a digital stb from Comcast finally, you would get digital channels, infact that is the only way you will get digital service now. Infact you actually never got digital to begin with, the channels used to be there because they were broadcast in analog format but, now that Comcast is broadcasting in true digital format you will no longer get them without the digital converter box. I had a digital converter from Comcast for a year but only received analog signals until the update to digital. One way I knew that is because when I set the input format to digital stb I would not retain my personal picture settings, it would default back to soft format cause the signal was not digital. It states this in the Philips users manual. Now that it is true digital I can set the input to digital stb and the tv retains my personal settings at start up.
Your digital concerns are not a software problem or the tv's fault and the tv's tuner can only broadcast the signal it receives, like I stated before. If you spent as much time calling or going to Comcast and getting the much said stb as you did on this forum you would be in digital (HD) heaven by now !!! :) :) :)


He states that they are the TV's fault for a reason, sir: Philips' xxPF7xxx/9xxx series TVs (especially the plasmas, but it also applies to most LCD models in both series) that support CableCARD also have a nice feature called Digital Cable Ready support (it's part of the same feature package that provides support for CableCARD, so if you have one, you have the other). What this means: you can tune *unencrypted* digital-cable channels without the need for the ubiquitous set-top box (STB). (The feature is also known as 256QAM support.) The key word here is *unencrypted*. Most non-basic digital-cable channels (and all non-OTA HD channels) will likely be encrypted; however, OTA HD channels (and most digital basic channels in Comcast's ADS areas) will be sent *in the clear* (it's why CNN shows up in my channel lineup twice; one channel is analog, and the other is the DS counterpart). I live in Prince George's County, MD, which is a Comcast ADS area, and I do NOT have a STB connected (but I have a full plate of OTA HD). No Discovery HD or Universal HD (both are encrypted). PBS HD? Present (from both WETA and MPT). NBC HD? Also present (WRC-DT and WBAL-DT) FOX-HD? Alive and kicking (WTTG-DT and WBFF-DT) CBS-HD? In full 1080i (WUSA-DT and WJZ-DT) ABC-HD (720p)? Yup (WJLA-DT and WMAR-DT). The reason for the encryption? Twofold: to cut down on theft of cable service and to drive leasing of STBs (remember, HD STBs lease for $5 per month). It's one reason I am strongly in favor of CableCARD (when VOD is not needed or wanted) as an alternative to the STB (in most cases, CableCARDs cost nothing).

Does anyone know the option in the service menu to adjust the geometry? I went thru all the options and did not find it. What I really need to do is adjust the screen horizontally since it seems to be all the overscan is towards the left and I need to center the picture. Can anyone help?

Thanks

On some other Philips', you need to use the arrow cursors on the remote.

Just to let anyone who wanted to know about connecting a notebook to this TV it can be done and it looks sweet. I was looking around and couldn't find a whole lot of info about it, plus the stuff i did find was usually BS. You can either buy a cable or do like i did and make your own. Someone was telling people that you could only hook it up through a DVI to HDMI cable. I used an old monitor extender cable and a crappy set of AV cables. I still have to get the cable all soldered up and shrink tubed but it works great, 1024x768 res.
Now i just need a mini TOS cable and i will have my notebook as an HTPC.

Can't wait to play counterstrike on a 42" tv with 5.1 sound.

Does anyone know the option in the service menu to adjust the geometry? I went thru all the options and did not find it. What I really need to do is adjust the screen horizontally since it seems to be all the overscan is towards the left and I need to center the picture. Can anyone help?

Thanks


Used the cursor keys and no additional options to adjust geometry, can anyone suggest anything?

Thanks

Just wanted to add to the reports. My wife has a employee partner discount with her company that includes Philips products, so we picked up a 42PF7220A/37 for a pretty awesome price last august. It shipped with 1.3.x and I upgraded to the 1.4 firmware immediately. So far no BSOD or any problems to report. It's always just worked. (Oh, and this isn't a refurb, it is a factory new product.)

I only subscribe to Comcast's Basic service ($11.68/month) and I was able to pull in all of the local HD content with out a problem. (PBS, CBS, ABC, NBC, FOX, CW, and one other that I can't remember). I just had the CableCard installed as well, so now all of the channels map to the proper numbers on Comcast's listings (wife didn't like not knowing which channel was which). I'll admit that I'm not an expert on PQ, but so far, after using the Avia disc to calibrate after getting it broken in, everything looks really great!

Quick question,

I've done searches, and can't figure out what the difference between the 42PF7220A/37, 42PF7220A/37B, 42PF73XX, etc, are. They all seem to be very similar in specs...

Going to upgrade to the 1.5 firmware tonight...

Thanks

after using the Avia disc to calibrate after getting it broken in, everything looks really great!

Quick question,

I've done searches, and can't figure out what the difference between the 42PF7220A/37, 42PF7220A/37B, 42PF73XX, etc, are. They all seem to be very similar in specs...

Going to upgrade to the 1.5 firmware tonight...

Thanks
Hi - Where did you get the calibration disk?
Thanks

The reason all the screen options were available to you when using component is because that is an analog signal. Upgrading to the HDMI connection is purely digital and hence only auto and widescreen are available.

I dont know what DVD player you are using but on my Sony DVP NS90V when I upconvert over HDMI I have the same screen format available that you do. I prefer auto and it fills the screen.
I have the Sony DVP NS75H.
I tried both HDMI inputs and same thing/limitations.

Q:
In your DVD player setup, do you have it setup for a Widescreen 16:9 TV or standard 4:3 TV output?

I have mine set to Widescreen.

I have a Pioneer DV-490V using HDMI, outputting 1080i, and set to 16x9 format. In the format menu of the TV, I only get Automatic and Widescreen (since it is a digital signal). If I'm playing a 4x3 dvd, the Automatic setting does stretch both the pillarbox and letterbox to fill the screen.

Just wanted to add to the reports. My wife has a employee partner discount with her company that includes Philips products, so we picked up a 42PF7220A/37 for a pretty awesome price last august. It shipped with 1.3.x and I upgraded to the 1.4 firmware immediately. So far no BSOD or any problems to report. It's always just worked. (Oh, and this isn't a refurb, it is a factory new product.)

I only subscribe to Comcast's Basic service ($11.68/month) and I was able to pull in all of the local HD content with out a problem. (PBS, CBS, ABC, NBC, FOX, CW, and one other that I can't remember). I just had the CableCard installed as well, so now all of the channels map to the proper numbers on Comcast's listings (wife didn't like not knowing which channel was which). I'll admit that I'm not an expert on PQ, but so far, after using the Avia disc to calibrate after getting it broken in, everything looks really great!

Quick question,

I've done searches, and can't figure out what the difference between the 42PF7220A/37, 42PF7220A/37B, 42PF73XX, etc, are. They all seem to be very similar in specs...


Going to upgrade to the 1.5 firmware tonight...

Thanks

They are similar in specs for a reason - they are basically the same set (or refreshes thereof). The 42PF72xx series is a model number unique to Costco, while the 42PF73xx is, quite literally, the same set elsewhere. The 7220A/7320A is a refresh aimed at North America (and assembled only in Mexico); this model was discontinued by Philips in 2006. The 7220A/37B (and identical 7320A/37B) is the second and last refresh of this model. All models have the same features and take the same firmware. The original 42PF7220/37 and 42PF7320/37 supported TVGOS (TV Guide On-Screen) in earlier firmware; later models can be firmware-regressed to support it (however, doing so naturally voids the warranty).

They are similar in specs for a reason - they are basically the same set (or refreshes thereof). The 42PF72xx series is a model number unique to Costco, while the 42PF73xx is, quite literally, the same set elsewhere. The 7220A/7320A is a refresh aimed at North America (and assembled only in Mexico); this model was discontinued by Philips in 2006. The 7220A/37B (and identical 7320A/37B) is the second and last refresh of this model. All models have the same features and take the same firmware. The original 42PF7220/37 and 42PF7320/37 supported TVGOS (TV Guide On-Screen) in earlier firmware; later models can be firmware-regressed to support it (however, doing so naturally voids the warranty).
Thanks that explains it very well.

On a related note, I am running 1.5 firmware with out any issues so far. I never had the BS issue but still not seeing it now. DVD on the HDMI looks great and no static (again, I didn't experience this on 1.4 either).

ALRUI: I picked up the Avia Guide to Home Theater a few years ago from Amazon. Its only like $30, and while not perfect, it definitely makes a big difference on picture quality. If nothing else, after going through the disc a few times, you can really understand what each of the picture controls does, and how it affects the display.

I've searched this thread, but didn't see this answered anywhere. I have a coax splitter hooked into the cable input of the TV, with the digital cable on one side and an OTA antenna on the other side. I did this assuming I could switch back and forth when an HDTV show was broadcast OTA (our cable company doesn't offer HD yet).

Unfortunately, it seems that the Philips TV wants me to do a full rescan before it will pick up the OTA channels, and that can take 15 minutes each time. Any way to avoid having to do a rescan when I switch cable inputs?

Thanks!

Ah, nevermind, I found the answer over in the Philips 50" thread. To switch between antenna/cable modes, just go to the autoprogram page in the menu, choose the mode you want, and then cancel before you start the rescan. You should then be able to tune those channels. Not exactly intuitive, but I'll take it.

I am helping a friend re-hookup her Philips 50PF7220A-37, I can't seem to get th hdmi to work from her comcast hddvr box. She does have an Rf cable hooked into her TV and several rca inputs. I left them hooked up. I have tried to set up the TV to hdmi to stb. It is a blank screen. My plasma (panasonic th-42px6u) did not need to autoprogram the TV channels in, but I see no hookup in the manual or online other than this configuration. Am I doing something wrong? Do I need to reboot the cable box? I am at home now, so I am not there to try this yet. Thanks for any help in advance.

Argh, well I figured out the cable/antenna channel switching hidden feature yesterday, but I seem to have run into the known "disappearing digital channels" bug. Now when I switch between them I lose all my digital subchannels (analog 19 will still be there, but 19.1 won't be). So I'm sort of back to the drawing board. *sigh*

I thought that the newly released firmware fixed this? Guess not. I've heard that if I downgrade back to the 1.1 version it will work, but I'm resisting this for now.

Karaoke, I may mention the 'channel dropping' in my Philips Corporate Letter, though it may be too specific. I will definitely mention it once I reach Philips Tech Support down the line.

just a quick note

I'm done with this TV and with Philips.

I returned it just before my one year anniversary was coming. I won't recount my trials. Click on my name to find my old posts if you're curious.

Good luck everybody,
Mike

just a quick note I'm done with this TV and with Philips.
I returned it just before my one year anniversary was coming. I won't recount my trials. Click on my name to find my old posts if you're curious.Good luck everybody,
Mike

What TV did you replace it with?

Did you give some thought to the 9631 or the other new models ?

LG 50PC3D
I considered several choices, but no Philips - not for a moment.
Mike

Well good luck.....let us know how you like it...it's funny, because Philips and LG are partners in flat-panel production !! :)

Thanks.

I'm unfamiliar with how affiliated they are, but I never minded the PQ of the Philips, just the functionality QC and support. So, if it turns out the glass is the same I wouldn't be surprised. I like both pictures. I'd bet similar, not the same. The LG is better at not false contouring and has much less SDE. I can't tell if the occasional blocking or noise I notice sometimes is a shortcoming of the LG or a side-effect of going from 42 to 50. Poor OTA sources are a little more obvious; poor DVDs actually seem better. Go figure.

There are some appreciable differences in functionality and operation. I now have a functioning guide - not as cool as TVGOS, but not bad. I like having custom picture and sound settings for analog, digital, and each input. I also like the pop-up channel lists and the way they work. Add the ATSC channels to the monitor output jacks, add a pop-up input list, and the set would be about perfect.

Suffice to say, I'm really liking it so far. I've only had it four days.

As for QC, unlike the Philips, the only chronic problem I've heard about with LG won't affect this set or me at all. The only "designed in" shortcoming won't hurt me any more once I can buy a DVDR with an ATSC tuner (soon!).

At the very least I hope to not feel like I should be drawing a salary for software troubleshooting.

Mike

I saved a buck :) 95 days ago and bought at the phillips outlet, well I thought if the BSOD problem comes a firmware update will fix it..... it did not. :mad: I guess I can post a picture of myself on the suckers board and throw my tv out of my 3rd story window.
It works for 45 minutes somtimes just goes black and becomes unresponsive or comes back on or goes black and the red light blinks, it looks like code 18, does anyone know what that means?

Just an fyi-

I just upgraded from v1.2 to v1.5 and notice that now the HDMI port is scanned periodically.
Meaning, if I have my DVD player on and have switched to the TV input or any other input other than HDMI, I will see the HDMI LED flash on the DVD about once every 5 seconds.
Never did this on v1.2. The HDMI LED only came on when I had the HDMI input selected on the TV.

v1.5 releases note did mention that they did some improvements to HDMI but wasn't aware that now they scan the HDMI port even when you are not using that input.

I saved a buck :) 95 days ago and bought at the phillips outlet, well I thought if the BSOD problem comes a firmware update will fix it..... it did not. :mad: I guess I can post a picture of myself on the suckers board and throw my tv out of my 3rd story window. It works for 45 minutes somtimes just goes black and becomes unresponsive or comes back on or goes black and the red light blinks, it looks like code 18, does anyone know what that means?

You have a 7320? Didn't know they had the BSOD problem, but I thought Philips released a fix for all sets last August.

Don't fret, should be fixable. ;)

Yeah, they did. It was fixed in firmware 1.3.

Thankfully, that worked for me at least!

PS - I knew I wasn't alone in the digital signal loss thing.

Hi all, I am not sure if I am doing this right or if there is another way to do this, but is there a way that I can try to find a digital station not found by the auto programming? Let me explain my problem. After auto programming my set with my OTA antenna, I cannot get one or two of the digital stations I'm looking for. I get the analog OK (lets say channel 8) but if I type in 8.1, it flops back to just 8. Even if I enter the "UHF" channel digital 8 is supposed to be on, I get nothing. Now I'm not absolutely sure I'm getting any digital signal from that station, but in my area, all the other stations I get (including digital) are all broadcasting from the same group of transmitters so I would figure I could at least get sporadic pick ups of the station. I have tried to use the weak station program function, but nothing happens (even the signal meter doesn't move). Any other thoughts on how I could "park" on a station to see if I even get spotty reception? Incidentally, I have run the v1.5 firmware update without any problems, but still have had the "Favorites" channel loss issue. Thanks

Hi all, I am not sure if I am doing this right or if there is another way to do this, but is there a way that I can try to find a digital station not found by the auto programming? Let me explain my problem. After auto programming my set with my OTA antenna, I cannot get one or two of the digital stations I'm looking for. I get the analog OK (lets say channel 8) but if I type in 8.1, it flops back to just 8. Even if I enter the "UHF" channel digital 8 is supposed to be on, I get nothing. Now I'm not absolutely sure I'm getting any digital signal from that station, but in my area, all the other stations I get (including digital) are all broadcasting from the same group of transmitters so I would figure I could at least get sporadic pick ups of the station. I have tried to use the weak station program function, but nothing happens (even the signal meter doesn't move). Any other thoughts on how I could "park" on a station to see if I even get spotty reception? Incidentally, I have run the v1.5 firmware update without any problems, but still have had the "Favorites" channel loss issue. Thanks

Make sure you are going to the RF digital channel to look for a signal (not ch8). If you see a signal on that channel, click the green button to store the channel on the remote and that station should map to 8.1 - Example: our digital channel for analog 8 here in New Orleans is rf29. It will be different in your area. You also have to click the Red button on the remote when you get to an RF channel in the weak station function before the signal meter will move. If you are doing all of this correctly and still don't get a signal then they are not broadcasting or your antenna is not correct.

You have a 7320? Didn't know they had the BSOD problem, but I thought Philips released a fix for all sets last August.

Don't fret, should be fixable. ;)

Yes! most 7320's have the BS issue. Firmware 1.4 should fix the temporary BS issue although as previously stated there are two forms of BS issue, one is the temporary BS which lasts generally for only a few moments then picture resumes, the other BS issue is of the fatal kind which does not resume viewing but shows the red blinking light indicating an error with the signal board, in most cases requires a service call to fix and not a firmware fix.

1.4 fixed my BS issues and I have not had this issue since upgrading firmware.

Make sure you are going to the RF digital channel to look for a signal (not ch8). If you see a signal on that channel, click the green button to store the channel on the remote and that station should map to 8.1 - Example: our digital channel for analog 8 here in New Orleans is rf29. It will be different in your area. You also have to click the Red button on the remote when you get to an RF channel in the weak station function before the signal meter will move. If you are doing all of this correctly and still don't get a signal then they are not broadcasting or your antenna is not correct.
Thanks Rich. I tried that. Went to the RF channel number in the weak station function. I did get the signal meter to start moving. It was bouncing up and down and I hit the green button when the signal seemed to be the strongest (something like 60% on the meter) but it gave me the message Store Failed immediately afterward. Not enough signal?

Tom

Yes, if you can't lock the signal it won't store.
You'll actually see the picture behind/around the menu when it's working.
Mike

Thanks Mike. I did indeed get a temporary fix on the station I was looking for. It is just a weak signal. I thought it would have been stronger. Now if I could just get the TV to stop dropping my favorites list. :rolleyes:

If you were not having black screen of death, try rolling back to firmware 1.1.
It does not suffer the preferred / favorites / digital channel problems.
Then remember to yell at Philips to fix their fixed firmware.
Mike

Any Idea on the date of the 1.1 version? I purchased the TV in June 06 and upgraded the firmware not long after that. Now that I have upgraded to 1.5, I can't go back and look what the previous version was (I think I may have missed an upgrade between now and then but not sure). The previous, and only other, firmware file I have is dated April 7 2006 (besides the version that shipped with the TV).

Tom

You got lucky and saved another download.
1.1 is Apr 7 06
Mike

Thanks for the info. Are there any problems I could experience with going back to and earlier firmware?

I used 1.1 for most of a year. I never had the BSOD before or after, so I'm not a good indicator there. Easy enough: try 1.1; if you get BSOD go back to new. Just know that so far everything after 1.1 has the drop.
Mike

Thanks for your suggestions, I have 1.5 now, Im not trying to be lazy but Ive looked through the thread and havent found where I can get 1.1 at to try that. Does anyone have a link?

Get old firmware here:
http://home.comcast.net/~sgr215/firmware.htm

Remember 1.1 is the last one w/o drop
1.0.13 is the last one with TVGOS
pick your poison

Mike

cool

oh man. this is a sad day. a new problem cropped up on my 6 month old 7220/37b is starting to exhibit some weird image retention problems. purchased 7-18-2006
hopefully visa double warranty length will take care of it.
looks like bright colors from a scene kind of linger and turn green and sparkly on the next scene. and only happens on one side of the screen. about a 4" strip along the right edge.
oh well. gonna be tough to take a $1000 write off, but that was the gamble. philips refurb FTL.
this happens across hdmi and component inputs. running the latest firmware. 1.5 i think it is. and on top of that, my friend just picked up the pioneer 42 non-elite plasma and the PQ is at least twice as good as the philips. none of that clay face or weird blockiness on the background.

and on top of that, my friend just picked up the pioneer 42 non-elite plasma and the PQ is at least twice as good as the philips. none of that clay face or weird blockiness on the background.

None of that either on Panasonic 42" or the Philips 9630/31 models, either...and both are alot less expensive ! ;)

I would say that is beyond weird IR. It sure sounds like something is profoundly failing in the panel or the color processing. To me IR is just when you can still make out bright leftovers on a black screen - so faint the next bright image clears it up.

Sorry, but it sounds like you had better start exploring your options now. Try to look on the bright side: prices have plummeted on 42s since six months ago.

What is FTL?
I can think of something rude and appropriate, but I wonder if I'm right?

Mike

Just bought one of these as an open box at Circuit City for $800. Was a little hesitant given the probs I've read about, but for that price I couldn't pass it up. I have a Comcast SD box hooked up to it, serially via a crappy DVD player through coax, a Nintendo Wii via component, and a Mac Mini via HDMI. Looks pretty decent so far, but then my only point of reference is a 7-year-old 27" TV.

Couple of questions:

1) Anyone in the Boston area have experience with Comcast and the CableCard setup? Worth the trouble? I understand that Comcast isn't terribly pleased about having to sell CableCards at all.

2) Is there any way to attach settings to inputs? Am I just an idiot and missing something obvious? Because the constant fiddling with picture settings after I switch from SD Cable to AV and/or HDMI input is slowly driving me nuts.

3) I have what appear to be IR Blaster cables that came with the Plasma - a long Y-cable with two L-shaped pieces of plastic with diodes at the end. Looking through the printed and CD docs, I've found no reference to this, only a cryptic illustration of an "IR Out". Is this in fact an IR Blaster that only works with other Phillips products? Or can I use this to control the Comcast box? Or is this a method of extending IR *input* (which would be nice, since the remote is a little sensitive about where it's pointed).

Thanks in advance. Overall, I'm pretty happy so far, and the sound doesn't bother me too much since I messed with the default input volume. I'll be investing in a home theater sound system once I move, so I'm not terribly concerned about it anyway.

I'm in Danvers, MA. I did get cable card in my TV and have been happy, then again I only have basic cable, but from a technical standpoint, it's all just bits anyway. The tech came out and it took about 20 minutes to set it up. Since then no problems, and SD picture quality IMHO is improved. Plus its nice to be able to know what channel is where rather than guessing 84.1 is WGBH and it is 802 on the cable card, etc.

We got a motorola card.

For $16 installation and no extra monthly charge, go for it.


That IR Blaster thing is for "future functionality" and serves no purpose. I would almost guarantee that there will never be a use for it.

EGPoulin...If you only have "basic cable", then why do you even need a cable card? I must be missing something.

I can run my basic cable (aka analog cable) directly into my TV. No cable card is required.

EGPoulin...If you only have "basic cable", then why do you even need a cable card? I must be missing something.

I can run my basic cable (aka analog cable) directly into my TV. No cable card is required.

Two reasons:

1) I heard reports that SD quality is better with the cable card and I do see a slight increase, but...
2) The big reason was so my wife would stop asking me what channel was what! She could never remember that, say, 84.1 was actually WGBH channel 2. She can remember that 802 is WGBH.

Plus, I think that we're going to switch service level during the baseball season, then switch back after the seasons ends. The Sox aren't on anything other than NESN in HD, so I'm out of luck with basic. With cable card, they don't even need to come out to take any filters off. Just a phone call, and wait a few hours for the card to get the new programming. Done.

If there was a monthly fee, I wouldn't have bothered, but for a small install fee, it's cool.

Thanks for the info on the CableCard and IR Blaster. I take it there's no way to attach settings to a specific input device? Do other folks see this issue? How do other folks deal with it?

None of that either on Panasonic 42" or the Philips 9630/31 models, either...and both are alot less expensive ! ;)
If i can't get this worked out, I will be looking at the 42px6u/60/600u. definately won't be checking out any future philips products. especially anything philips currently has. it all looks 2nd rate compared to the PQ of panasonic or especially pioneer. i know i'm bitter right now./rant
FTL=for the lose

If you have the old firmware with TVGOS, you can theoretically schedule recordings and the IR blaster would control the recorder. I say "theoretically" because I never did it.

Sorry, there are no input-specific settings on these. You get a bunch of presets and one personal setting.

Mike

If i can't get this worked out, I will be looking at the 42px6u/60/600u. definately won't be checking out any future philips products. especially anything philips currently has. it all looks 2nd rate compared to the PQ of panasonic or especially pioneer. i know i'm bitter right now./rant
FTL=for the lose
I agree that Panasonic looks better than Philips in the same price range but the Pioneer is the same from what I observed at BB and CC.

I will definitely be looking at Panasonic a little closer the next time around if the price is comparable.

oh man. this is a sad day. a new problem cropped up on my 6 month old 7220/37b is starting to exhibit some weird image retention problems. purchased 7-18-2006
hopefully visa double warranty length will take care of it.
looks like bright colors from a scene kind of linger and turn green and sparkly on the next scene. and only happens on one side of the screen. about a 4" strip along the right edge.
oh well. gonna be tough to take a $1000 write off, but that was the gamble. philips refurb FTL.
this happens across hdmi and component inputs. running the latest firmware. 1.5 i think it is. and on top of that, my friend just picked up the pioneer 42 non-elite plasma and the PQ is at least twice as good as the philips. none of that clay face or weird blockiness on the background.

Sorry dude. Your plasma panel is failing. You need to get it repaired under warranty (if possible) immediately. The good news is, if you can get it repaired, you will practically have a brand new unit because the glass/plasma panel is a single part. My first panel had the sparklies permanantly on a 4 inch strip out of the box. It just wasn't minor image retention, but rather lots of green and yellow sparklies. Needless to say I was angry because I mounted it on the wall before turning it on (doh). My new one has performed well except now the small signal board is failing and I have really dark channels on my coax, occasionally distorted pictures on my component, and the HDCP error on my HDMI. Turning the TV on/off several times usually fixes the last 2 problems. I'm waiting on the repair techs to come pick up my unit to replace the part.

I agree that Panasonic looks better than Philips in the same price range but the Pioneer is the same from what I observed at BB and CC.

I will definitely be looking at Panasonic a little closer the next time around if the price is comparable.

A lot depends on the model. The 42PF7320A I believe had pixel plus 1 which down-res'd the picture before processing. I have the 50PF9630A which has the Samsung glass in it. I've gone to Circuit City over and over for the last year and still have not found a panel that beats it in PQ. The firmware issues and occasional hardware issue have been a problem, but the latest firmware update fixed the black screen and channel dropouts. Mine has the pixel plus 2. It's calibrated with Avia and I have never seen the "clay face" problem since I've had it. I have seen some muddy pictures, but it has always been from mpeg artifacting and not the Philips. You can tell by pausing using a DVR and back it up to the "muddy scene" and look up close and you'll see the mpeg blocks. Now granted none of the units in Circuit City are calibrated so it's hard to compare the Philips or Panasonic "side by side." I can tell you that when I bought mine, they had the Samsung and the Philips side by side and the Circuit City salesman tried to upsell me to the Samsung (for $399 more). They were both uncalibrated, but the Samsung looked better in the store. However, I had done my homework and knew both had the same plasma display panel in it so theoretically the picture should be the same or close to. I walked out with the Philips. You'd really have to have the Panasonic and the Philips both in your house at the same time and calibrated to make a fair call or at least convince the CC guy to let you use a blue filter and calibrate both sets in the store. Never buy a set in the store because the PQ "appears" better on one set than the other unless you know for a fact the store has calibrated the sets. Every one of my friends who sets foot in my house usually gasps at how beautiful the image on my Philips is compared to their brand x plasma, lcd, or DLP. A properly mounted and calibrated unit goes a long way. Also, don't rule out bias lighting. My panel is of course wall mounted and the Ambilight makes the viewing SOOOOOOO much better. I figured it was just a gimmick when I bought it, but I've spent lots of time movie viewing and I love the ambilight. At night I can't live without it (during the day it doesn't matter as much). If you go with the Panasonic and ever visit a friends house who has bias lighting (or god forbid ambilight), you're just going to be spending time at Home Depot trying to figure out how to rig up your own bias lighting (which of course won't be animated like the ambilight is).

My first panel had the sparklies permanantly on a 4 inch strip out of the box. It just wasn't minor image retention, but rather lots of green and yellow sparklies.

You're not talking about bright blue/green along one of the sides of a 4:3 (digital) SD/HD picture, between the picture and the black border, are you ?? :confused:

You're not talking about bright blue/green along one of the sides of a 4:3 (digital) SD/HD picture, between the picture and the black border, are you ?? :confused:

No. I'm talking about a 4 inch wide strip (I have a 50" remember) of damaged pixels vertically on the screen. It didn't matter what viewing mode or 4:3 or menu or whatever. The Plasma panel itself was damaged.

Are you using component cables with this setting? The reason I am asking is because some where in this thread you mention something about using a S-video cable.

Also, this setting is being used on a Phillips 42PF7320A/37, correct?

Thanks

Heres my settings.. I used the Avia disk.

Contrast: 66
Brightness: 44
Color: 45
Sharpness: 2
Color Temp: Normal
Digital Processing: Pixel Plus
Dynamic Contrast: Medium
DNR: Medium
Color Enhancement: On
Tint: -5
Active Control: Off

Anyone else find "Active Control" to make picture worse on nearly everything? Seems like a rather pointless feature if you ask me.

Are you using component cables with this setting? The reason I am asking is because some where in this thread you mention something about using a S-video cable.

Also, this setting is being used on a Phillips 42PF7320A/37, correct?

Thanks

I do own the 42PF7320A/37. I was using S-Video but now I've since made major changes to not only my setup, but my signal as well. I went from Directv with no HD to Comcast with HD. I now use the HDMI connection. I'm actually using someone elses suggested settings with a few modifications. I wish I could give them credit, but I forgot who it was! Anyhow, Here's my settings:

Contrast: 63
Brightness: 54
Color: 53
Sharpness: 3
Color Temp: Cool
Digital Processing: Pixel Plus
Dynamic Contrast: Medium
DNR: Minimum
Color Enhancement: Off
Tint: 3
Active Control: Off

Hey guys, for those of you on the Philips Tips Sheet e-mail group, I received a contact from a higher-up at Philips corporate in regards to alot of our concerns for Philips products, tech, and support. I speak to him later this week.

If you have anything you want me to emphasize again, post it here, email me, or PM me. I know MKJNovak, for instance, was real teed off at the lack of support regarding his problems. Any new specifics, let me know.

I don't want to hit him with specific problems (hopefully, he gives me someone in tech or software for that) but I will hit these major themes from the corporate letter:

**Quality Control
**Customer Service
**Plasma/LCD Repairs
**Technical/Firmware Upgrades
**Ambilight/PixelPlus/Aptura
** Warranty Coverage

I purchased a 42PF7220A/37B from Philips outlet in August. The TV has worked great until this past weekend. When the TV is powered on now the lower half flickers off and on. Sometimes it will stay on other it will just act like there is no power on the lower half. Sadly the warranty was only 90 days. I cannot get an extended warranty. If behaves like a loose connection. For those with more knowledge have you ever heard of this type of issue. Will the service menu log give more information? Any help would be appreciated.

The philips outlet seems to have programmed their tvs to fail right after the warranty expired (im not sure how this would profit them but it could be part of their plan for world domination), I bought a mack extended warranty so I hope it works. Good luck to ya'll.

Hey guys, for those of you on the Philips Tips Sheet e-mail group, I received a contact from a higher-up at Philips corporate in regards to alot of our concerns for Philips products, tech, and support. I speak to him later this week.
Best of luck, and I hope they listen to what you have to say on behalf of all of us!

Best of luck, and I hope they listen to what you have to say on behalf of all of us!

I 2nd that. Philips has great technology, they're just falling short on customer service and quality control.

I 2nd that. Philips has great technology, they're just falling short on customer service and quality control.

Something I will drill home to them, rest assured. :)

I recently purchased a 42PF7320A/37B from the Philips Outlet web site. This was a refurbished unit. It was our first HDTV and the family was pumped. Goal was Superbowl party in high def.

The Bad :mad: : Upon delivery (by two scary looking arab dudes who turned out to be very nice, funny guys) and initial powerup, the display had two vertical lines on the right side, about 1 inch wide of pixels going nuts. Otherwise, the rest of the display was just fine. After about 10 minutes of operation, there was some clicking from the back of the unit and then the display went blank. The only way to get the unit to go back on was to unplug the power and plug it back in again. We tried this several times, via different outlets and power strips, same results. Obviously the unit was fried.

Delivery was on a Friday evening. Called the Philips support line (at the recommendation of the delivery guys, they said to call immediately) and they said all they could do was refer me to a repair center. Second person was very understanding, as if he had been through this discussion before. He said I had to call the online store on Monday morning. It definitely pays to be nice to the support folks. It also pays to log your problem immediately on delivery and get a reference #.

The Good :rolleyes: : Called the online store first thing Monday AM. On hold for about 5 minutes, told my story and without skipping a beat the rep said they would send someone out to pick up the unit and they would credit my CC. I was relieved to say the least. Same delivery guys picked up the unit on Tuesday. I still need to check the CC statement to confirm they credited my account.

Started more shopping, after paying more attention to the return and defect policies of the litany of online stores, I settled on a Panasonic (TH42PX60U) from BB. Most stores were not as understanding as Philips Outlet. Basically once you have the unit, you must deal with the manufacturer for defects.

Mistakes I made :o : I signed the delivery form, even though the unit obviously wasn't working properly. The delivery guys, even before they opened the box said they cannot take the unit back. I guess this is standard operating procedure.

I didn't listen to the posts on this forum and others re: the Philips Outlet refurb units. I thought that it must be a bunch of disgruntled buyers. I think these units do have problems, or the QA at the Philips Outlet is lacking.

BB is delivering the Panny Monday. I got my fingers crossed I can get my antenna working by 2/4. Its HD or bust!!! :D

Kinda makes you wonder why that outlet has so many refurbs available, doesn't it? Good luck with the Panasonic, you made a smart choice! :)

I didn't listen to the posts on this forum and others re: the Philips Outlet refurb units. I thought that it must be a bunch of disgruntled buyers. I think these units do have problems, or the QA at the Philips Outlet is lacking.

ANY refurbs are inherently going to be suspect. I wouldn't even buy a refurbed 9631 or 9831 and they are top-notch when new. :(

Unless you get 50% off and a multi-year warranty, I am not a fan of refurbs.

ok,
im`sitting on this 42" plasma where i lose the volume and after 40 minutes of operation time it cuts out. I have also read plenty of replies to this issue, good place to be, where do i access the necessary updates, one by one to handle this. The customer service deal is not working at the moment, frustrated is a mild definition, but hopefully with everyones input it'll work out. thanks for the resources and information.

CJW

Try a firmware upgrade - the versions that arent on Philips site can be found here:


http://home.comcast.net/~sgr215/firmware.htm


Hope this helps:-)

trying to do upgrades now, thanks for the link. now having problems getting the zip file to open and copy to jumpdrive. now that i've updated the sw versions the set still turns itself off rather violently, oh well time for the repairman.

Which version did you install? Curious, whats a violent shutdown?

After various software upgrades and weak Philips support, my 42PF7320A\37 is now completely unwatchable. I am going this week to buy another TV while Philips makes an attempt to fix this set.

I had an intermittant black screen, that was "tolerable", now, I have a black screen with an audible click. (I am running Firmware 1.5. I am using a time warner SA 8300 HD DVR connected by HDMI.) Some of the time, I cannot turn off the TV using the remote or the power button on the side. Other times, it will turn off; but, I continue to get clicks after power down.

Costco has a Panasonic (TH-42PX6U) on sale this week. I think I am going to buy it. Costco's return policy will give me some confidence and I can replace this Philips boat anchor that depresses me everytime I see. I will still work with Philips to fix it. I will either put it in the basement or donate it to a local rec center. (I am actually nervous to donate it. If it broke again, I would feel terrible.)

Any input on a 42 Plasma for around $2000???

I just spoke with a representative from the Presidential liaison group at Philips. (I will not give out his because I did not discuss it with him.) He has agreed to cover the repair under warranty. I am happy that they are willing to stand behind their product.

If you are having issues with your Philips Plasma, contact Stewart Muller (CEO of Philips Consumer Electronics) at 770-821-2400. His office will be able to give you guidance on how to get your TV fixed. As we all know, regular Philips customer support is useless.

I am still looking to buy a new Plasma and it will not be a Philips.

To me a violent shut down is when the unit shoots different colors across the screen and at the same time sounds like all of the electrical components have just been submerged in water. I am no longer worried for my own safety, just Philips.

Yes! most 7320's have the BS issue. Firmware 1.4 should fix the temporary BS issue although as previously stated there are two forms of BS issue, one is the temporary BS which lasts generally for only a few moments then picture resumes, the other BS issue is of the fatal kind which does not resume viewing but shows the red blinking light indicating an error with the signal board, in most cases requires a service call to fix and not a firmware fix.

1.4 fixed my BS issues and I have not had this issue since upgrading firmware.


I *never* had the BS issue (ever) with my 42PF7320A/37. Not with the firmware that came with the TV, and not with either firmware upgrade since (both firmware upgrades were to add features or simple PM). The only changes I have made (other than channel mapping rescans and firmware upgrades (you have to do a rescan after upgrading firmware)) were to eliminate scaling of SD channels (leaving the black bars on the sides of analog and digital-but-SD channels; widescreen HD and DVD content is still dynamically scaled as per the settings for same). I have put all the available/viewable HD channels into my Favorites list (which consists of nothing *but* such channels) as I haven't gotten my CableCARD installed yet (because I want to move the CATV jack in the room first); this means I can scroll among all the HD channels using the remote, or, if I'm bouncing between two of them, I can switch rather easily.

Yes! most 7320's have the BS issue. Firmware 1.4 should fix the temporary BS issue although as previously stated there are two forms of BS issue, one is the temporary BS which lasts generally for only a few moments then picture resumes, the other BS issue is of the fatal kind which does not resume viewing but shows the red blinking light indicating an error with the signal board, in most cases requires a service call to fix and not a firmware fix.

1.4 fixed my BS issues and I have not had this issue since upgrading firmware.


I have tried various releases of firmware to no avail.
I also seem to have both types of BS. Usually the green lignt version, but if I let it go long enough it can turn into the red light one.
I have had the set for a little over a year and this is the first upgrade I have done. The BS didn't start until about 3 months ago and was sporadic but now starts pretty regularly within the first hour of the set being on.
I have comcast cable which is on a splitter. One lead goes directly into the tv and the other into my dvd/dvr which is connected to my receiver. The receiver is connected via HDMI.
Any thoughts as to why the firmware isn't working for me? Do you think my set-up has anything to do with it? I just got the comcast STB but have not installed it.
If there is a better way to connect my components I am all ears. thx

Search back, waaay back, and you will find someone who could repeat his bsod with a scene from a show he had DVR'd. So, yes, it did seem certain connections and signals could cause it.

Of course, if you've had Comcast for ages and only recent bsod, then I just don't know.

To verify, did you try 1.5 for certain? That is the one that claimed to fix the problem, not 1.4 as someone else said earlier.

Mike

Hey guys. I just updated my firmware to 1.5 and all my BS issues were resolved but it seems I have a new issue. Only with my comcast cable/DVR box which is a Motorola DCT6412 III, I have a problem with my aspect ratio. All the way to the right there are about 5 lines of black pixels (the image isnt stretching the entire way). When I play any other source DVD/HTPC etc I dont get that issue. Anyone know how to resolve this? It was working fine before I upgraded the firmware on the 7320A. Any ideas?

It will suck if you have to do it every day - hope it sticks:
You can move the picture over with the arrow disc around the OK button.
There is probably enough overscan to the left to let you do it.
Mike

Thanks man I will try it out.

*Update* Hey MIke it worked. Thanks for the advice. There was plenty of overscan and now the image is totally full screen.

Great, you're welcome.
Is it still correct when you turn it on the next day?
Mike

Just thought I'd drop a note here ... got my Wii yesterday and it looks fabulous on the Phillips, wide screen mode fills up the entire screen, and the graphics looks pretty great even with the included cable. I still have to find the component cables for it. But right out of the box its much better than my PS2 ever was ---> which is now in the basement on the SDTV :-)

Also, the Wii sensor bar looks mad sexy on top of the Phillips, hehe.

Great, you're welcome.
Is it still correct when you turn it on the next day?
Mike

Ya I tried it a few times and it seems to stick the settings just fine. I know people dog on this Plasma alot but I really have had not one problem with it since I got it 8 months ago. It does the job and if you tweak the settings enough even SD looks fine stretched with Superzoom.

Search back, waaay back, and you will find someone who could repeat his bsod with a scene from a show he had DVR'd. So, yes, it did seem certain connections and signals could cause it.

Of course, if you've had Comcast for ages and only recent bsod, then I just don't know.

To verify, did you try 1.5 for certain? That is the one that claimed to fix the problem, not 1.4 as someone else said earlier.

Mike

It is 1.4 firmware that solves bs issue not 1.5, If you have a problem with this the definitions for the various firmwares are on the philips web site and they are also listed on this or the previous page from sgr215 who has helped keep all the firmware updates available to be able to upgrade or downgrade as needed.

I have tried various releases of firmware to no avail.
I also seem to have both types of BS. Usually the green lignt version, but if I let it go long enough it can turn into the red light one.
I have had the set for a little over a year and this is the first upgrade I have done. The BS didn't start until about 3 months ago and was sporadic but now starts pretty regularly within the first hour of the set being on.
I have comcast cable which is on a splitter. One lead goes directly into the tv and the other into my dvd/dvr which is connected to my receiver. The receiver is connected via HDMI.
Any thoughts as to why the firmware isn't working for me? Do you think my set-up has anything to do with it? I just got the comcast STB but have not installed it.
If there is a better way to connect my components I am all ears. thx

What firmware upgrade did you install and what was firmware before you installed it ??. You can check this in your tv's os menu and see which is the current version that is running. You definately need to install 1.4 to fix this issue.
If you have installed 1.4 before it is possible the upgrade did not load correctly then you would have to downgrade back to 1.3 then upgrade back to 1.4 to see if this fixes your problem.
If you are getting an intermiitent red flashing light then it is a circuitry issue which usually requires a service call to repair, but try the firmware first.

I *never* had the BS issue (ever) with my 42PF7320A/37. Not with the firmware that came with the TV, and not with either firmware upgrade since (both firmware upgrades were to add features or simple PM). The only changes I have made (other than channel mapping rescans and firmware upgrades (you have to do a rescan after upgrading firmware)) were to eliminate scaling of SD channels (leaving the black bars on the sides of analog and digital-but-SD channels; widescreen HD and DVD content is still dynamically scaled as per the settings for same). I have put all the available/viewable HD channels into my Favorites list (which consists of nothing *but* such channels) as I haven't gotten my CableCARD installed yet (because I want to move the CATV jack in the room first); this means I can scroll among all the HD channels using the remote, or, if I'm bouncing between two of them, I can switch rather easily.

That is why I stated MOST 7320's have had the bs issue and not ALL of them !!!
I'm not sure what the rest of your post is replying about :rolleyes: though, maybe you could clue me in ??

Do you still have this firmware? I have upgraded to the latest 1.5.0.0 and still have the menu popping-up every few minutes. It's driving me crazy and Philips help desk is useless. They won't help to get me the firmware I need to roll back in the hope this problem will go away.


I rolled the firmware software back to version BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461 and it took. Unfortunately, it is still losing the preferred channels. I did a complete scan (digital and analog), took the X off the analog channels in the preferred channel area, used the remote control and the channels skipped fine. After turning the set off, waiting a few minutes, turned it on and the analog channels are back in the preferred channel list. This never happened until I upgraded the software.

Be aware before you upgrade -

Do you still have this firmware? I have upgraded to the latest 1.5.0.0 and still have the menu popping-up every few minutes. It's driving me crazy and Philips help desk is useless. They won't help to get me the firmware I need to roll back in the hope this problem will go away.

I've got a collection of firmware available for this set available at http://home.comcast.net/~sgr215/firmware.htm. Version BX23U-1.1.0.0_01461 is there along with a lot of other versions. I try to keep it up-to-date.

That is why I stated MOST 7320's have had the bs issue and not ALL of them !!!
I'm not sure what the rest of your post is replying about :rolleyes: though, maybe you could clue me in ??

There had been a rather nasty (and disturbing) trend toward general bashing of this particular model TV in this thread; all I was doing was countering it with my personal (positive) experiences with the same model (despite the set NOT being my first choice). I also made plain that the experiences were my own.

I just came across an open-box version of this TV at CC. [EDIT]. I'm new to the whole HD thing, but would this be a good starter? It's in our price range and the size we were looking for.

Also, being open box, is there anything that I should be cautious/concerned about?

Thanks

I'm no big CC fan, especially anything there that is open box. Find out if it still carries the full warranty etc. I don't think that price is very amazing considering its been used.

An update on my Black Screen issue. Philips Presidential Liaison has been helpful. My TV has been in for repair since Feb 02 and the repair shop is waiting on a part. I have spoken with the presidential Liaison and he has contacted the parts department and they are working to expedite the shipping of the part.

I think the key is to quickly move past Philip's front line customer support. The Presidential Liaison group is helpful. I expect that the part will be in some time next week and hopefully my TV will be back within a week after that.

And if you are wondering from my earlier post, I did buy the Panasonic. So far it is a very nice TV. Now I just need to set up a place for the Philips when it comes back. :)

The Philips Outlet store has the 42PF7220A/37B version of this set (from what I understand it's the same as the 7320) on sale for $799 refurbished. I just placed my order yesterday. The sale goes until Feb. 27.

I can't link because I haven't made 5 posts yet, so you'll have to search for it at w*w*w outlet philips com (insert dots).

Then use promo code 42PLASMA-0207 at checkout to get $180 off the $979 list price.
I picked up the same deal last week. Lets hope everything works out and we don't get duds. :(

Just want to confirm, does this TV have an ATSC tuner built in for OTA signals? Thanks.

Yes, it has an ATSC tuner. I can also confirm that it can tune unencrypted QAM channels from your cable provider. I was able to access all the OTA stations through QAM.

As a side note, I'm very happy with my unit except the speakers really suck.

Yes, it has an ATSC tuner. I can also confirm that it can tune unencrypted QAM channels from your cable provider. I was able to access all the OTA stations through QAM.

As a side note, I'm very happy with my unit except the speakers really suck.

Who uses TV speakers anymore?

:)

You're right! ...but since I just dropped $1K on the TV, I was planning on waiting before buying a good surround sound system. I quickly spent another $1K on a decent system after listening to the terrible Phillips speakers.

Actually, it is okay that the TV speakers suck...I just wish they were removable.

That's excellent news--both that you're happy with the set and that it can tune the unencrypted QAM channels. That's something I didn't even know was possible until I looked into it further after reading your post! Are local OTA stations typically run unencrypted by cable providers, or does it vary? Thanks!

I'm not a QAM expert at all. From what I've read, unencrypted QAM seems to vary by cable company and region.

You can check in the local forums here to see if someone in your area can give you details about unencrypted QAM from your cable provider.

StanF, thanks for the info. So, just to confirm, If I take my over-the-air antenna RF cable and put it in the RF input, I'll be able to pull in the OTA HD channels without having to use the CableCard slot?

I'm not a QAM expert at all. From what I've read, unencrypted QAM seems to vary by cable company and region.

You can check in the local forums here to see if someone in your area can give you details about unencrypted QAM from your cable provider.
Hi Stan - Youre more of an expert then me - what IS QAM???
:-)

Hi, Maybe this helps a bit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/QAM_tuner

So, just to confirm, If I take my over-the-air antenna RF cable and put it in the RF input, I'll be able to pull in the OTA HD channels without having to use the CableCard slot?
That's correct. Go to www.antennaweb.org to see what frequency your local HD signals are being broadcast. You'll also be better off if your antenna is amplified. After you have that all hooked up, go into the menu and run the auto program feature. If you think you're missing any of the HD signals you thought you might be able to get (from antennaweb) then use the weak channel program feature to try to pull those in while you turn your antenna to get a better signal. Remember, the HD stations do not come in on the same frequency as the analog stations so, for example, channel 5 digital will have to be tuned on, let's say, frequency 15. It will show up in the channel order though as 5.1. Again, get those frequencies from antennaweb. Good luck.

Well I knew this day was coming. My one year warranty has expired and now my display is distorted. Regardless of the input, I get multiple horizontal lines filling 3/4 of my screen. Anyone have a clue what the hardware problem is and whether I should even think about fixing?

<quote>Anyone have a clue what the hardware problem is and whether I should even think about fixing?</quote>

I don't have a clue as to what the hardware problem is, but given the content in that picture, it's probably not worth spending money on.

Sorry - just trying to inject some levity. Have you tried messing with the picture settings? Or reinstalling the firmware? I'm wondering whether this is a hardware or software issue. Maybe you'll get lucky and it's just a software freakout. That's what I'd try.

Just out of curiosity, how much did you pay for the set?

Quick Question concerning QAM, ATSC and cable: I currently have a coax cable connection coming in to my 42PF7320A via the bottom antenna connection. I have tested and found that I can get QAM if I split my cable before it goes through the STB. I also can potentially get quite a few OTA HD channels via ATSC.

The question is: do I have to pick only one of analog cable, ATSC, or QAM? Or is there some way to get all three signals simultaneously?

It's definitely not a software issue, but i did play with settings and firmware just to be sure. I paid $1,999.00 in Sept '05, what a waste of money. and wife took picture of regis...lol.

Hi, Maybe this helps a bit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/QAM_tuner
Thanks - great info! Until our cable co. gets out of the dark ages we wont be able to enjoy anything like that here, these guys are distributing pure analog signals & when you ask them about digital they say "its coming" when? "we dont know" :confused:

Jerry808:

Sorry to hear it's not a software issue. No offense, but I sure hope the same doesn't happen to me. I bought this set about 3 months ago - an open box on deep discount. So far, the only issues I've seen are occasional black screens which are resolved by unplugging.

Best of luck, and let us know how/if it gets resolved. As I'm sure you know from reading the boards here, Phillips does seem to recognize that these models are a bit of a problem. Maybe they're worth contacting with this issue.

Wow. Just received my Philips 42 inch plasma from their outlet -- the $800 special. Not sure why so many folks are complaining about it here.

It arrived ~1 week after I ordered it. The guys that delivered it were awesome -- it was well boxed/protected and they unpacked everything so I could inspect it. Couldn't turn it on for awhile 'cause it's 5 degrees here in NH today and it was near frozen.

Later in the day I powered it on, scanned the channels, and configured the settings. It arrived with version 1.3 firmware so I updated it to 1.5. I have basic cable and it autodetected a ton of digital and analog channels. The display looks awesome -- much better than my prior 32" Vizio LCD TV. Standard analog pictures looked horrible on the Vizio, but looks quite good on the Philips (relative to the Vizio) and the HD signals look real good. The sound is unimpressive but better than my prior Vizio. I run the audio out signals to my amplified stereo setup and everything sounds very good!

Haven't watched any DVDs yet -- that's next and I'll also connect my media-center PC to it :)

I'm hardly a video geek or audiophile, but this TV gets the job done very well. Unbelieveable for the price! I'll chime-in later if things get worse or it blows up or something...

The display looks awesome -- much better than my prior 32" Vizio LCD TV. Standard analog pictures looked horrible on the Vizio, but looks quite good on the Philips (relative to the Vizio) and the HD signals look real good. The sound is unimpressive but better than my prior Vizio. I run the audio out signals to my amplified stereo setup and everything sounds very good!

I agree, this TV is great! I bought mine 8 months ago (Brand new, no refurb) for $2000 (I could get a 50" for less now :o ). So far no issues except sometime losing my favorites list. Sound is poor but that's what extra speakers are for. Knock on wood, I hope I don't see any issues like Jerry.

Well I knew this day was coming. My one year warranty has expired and now my display is distorted. Regardless of the input, I get multiple horizontal lines filling 3/4 of my screen. Anyone have a clue what the hardware problem is and whether I should even think about fixing?

Sorry dude...the panel is bad. Considering the panel is the most expensive part in the display....

I agree this TV is great for picture display (if it works that is), but I will NEVER buy another Philips product again in my lifetime. Their customer service is the worst ever. I found an interesting site: www.complaints.com type in Philips Plasma and you will get a ton of hits.

If I spend $1,999.00 on a TV, I fully expect it should last more than 17 months, or be cheaply repaired if necessary. I'm still waiting for my "authorized service rep" to get back to me regarding the problem and cost to repair (this should take another month...LOL). The sad thing is, my situation is not an isolated case, there are so many others who have had fatal problems with their sets. I sure wish their was a class action attorney on this forum, he could make a killing. To top off my bitterness, I still have 6 more monthly payments on my unwatchable TV (circuit city 2 year interest free promo).

I agree this TV is great for picture display (if it works that is), but I will NEVER buy another Philips product again in my lifetime. Their customer service is the worst ever. I found an interesting site: www.complaints.com type in Philips Plasma and you will get a ton of hits.

If I spend $1,999.00 on a TV, I fully expect it should last more than 17 months, or be cheaply repaired if necessary. I'm still waiting for my "authorized service rep" to get back to me regarding the problem and cost to repair (this should take another month...LOL). The sad thing is, my situation is not an isolated case, there are so many others who have had fatal problems with their sets. I sure wish their was a class action attorney on this forum, he could make a killing. To top off my bitterness, I still have 6 more monthly payments on my unwatchable TV (circuit city 2 year interest free promo).
Not to defend Philips service which sucks, but there are the same number of complaints at that site for Panasonics too. Why don't the manufacturers just tack on an extra $100 or so and just gaurantee all sets for 3 - 5 years. Just think of the repeat buisness they'de get. It works for the car manufacturers.

O.K. -- still very happy with my Philips TV (heck, I've only had it for 1 day and the service log suggests it's only got 40 hours on the plasma)...

However, having some challenges connecting my media center computer to it. My Vizio had a VGA input but the philips doesn't :(

I tried using the S-video connection off my video card and the display looks HORRIBLE on the Philips. Resolution settings for my graphics card with the s-video connection are limited and generally lower than what the plasma will support.

I used the DVI-I connection off my graphics card and converted it to HDMI -- now the display on the Philips looks terrific! But the HDMI ports expect audio to come with the digital video signal. I have nowhere to plug my audio signal into the television :(

Any ideas???

The TV has an optical input

Or just run the sound to your receiver .....

Unless you are saying your media center has no seperate audio output, then I think you're SOL.

Yeah...if you don't have HDMI on your PC and can send the audio w/ it, then you'll need to connect to the coax input and link it to the HDMI. You could also connect with a SVGA to RGBSV (I think that's what it's called) cable and again the coax audio.

However, having some challenges connecting my media center computer to it. My Vizio had a VGA input but the philips doesn't :(

Any ideas???
When I want to watch content I have on the Mac I used the DVI out to HDMI on the set then ren the headphone output of the Mac into my receiver - works well:-)

P.S. I did use a Y cable so I have stereo

When I want to watch content I have on the Mac I used the DVI out to HDMI on the set then ren the headphone output of the Mac into my receiver - works well:-)

P.S. I did use a Y cable so I have stereo

Nice thing about the new MacBook Pros is the headphone jack is also an optical out, so you can get full 5.1 sound. G5's also have built in optical outs. I really want to get a newer MacMini for my HTPC

Thanks for the ideas -- my receiver is an OLD one so it's time to upgrade :)

Ybarra you were correct, at least thats what the authorized service rep confirmed, that it is a "bad panel" and he estimates it would cost $1,600 to fix. Obviously I'm not going to repair at that cost. Good luck to the rest of you Philips owners, I hope you don't encounter the same problem, especially 5 months after the warranty expires.

Nice thing about the new MacBook Pros is the headphone jack is also an optical out, so you can get full 5.1 sound. G5's also have built in optical outs. I really want to get a newer MacMini for my HTPC
Yeah that is cool - this is an older Powerbook, I was going to use the wifes newer HP laptop as it has the optical out for audio but only S video out - I didnt think when I ordered it to get the HDMI out - my bad!

Yeah that is cool - this is an older Powerbook, I was going to use the wifes newer HP laptop as it has the optical out for audio but only S video out - I didnt think when I ordered it to get the HDMI out - my bad!

There was a company that made a USB - Optical cable for older macs -- in fact, I remember seeing it when the original Mini's came out, as I thought it was pointless they didn't have optical sound output. But I can't remember what the name was, but I'm sure Google might yield some help ;)

Ybarra you were correct, at least thats what the authorized service rep confirmed, that it is a "bad panel" and he estimates it would cost $1,600 to fix. Obviously I'm not going to repair at that cost. Good luck to the rest of you Philips owners, I hope you don't encounter the same problem, especially 5 months after the warranty expires.

the panel from philips is $1900 just for the part.
my refurb 7220 only lasted 5 months. 2 months past the 90 day warranty.
maybe you paid for your tv with a visa? they automatically double the warranty.

just replaced the dead 7220 with a 42px600u.
i can honestly say that SD on the panasonic looks just about as good as HD did on the philips. dark/shadow details look better. substantially less false contouring.

the panel from philips is $1900 just for the part.
my refurb 7220 only lasted 5 months. 2 months past the 90 day warranty.
maybe you paid for your tv with a visa? they automatically double the warranty.

just replaced the dead 7220 with a 42px600u.
i can honestly say that SD on the panasonic looks just about as good as HD did on the philips. dark/shadow details look better. substantially less false contouring.

Heh, you must have had a really bad unit then. HD looks superb on my Phillips, none of the things you saw on yours. If SD on any set looked better than HD on yours, you had a bad unit from day one.

NEVER buy refurb'ed TV's or computers :-)

Out of curiosity, not need, and maybe off topic, but how do you dispose of a PDP that is out of warranty and can't be repaired? It just doesn't seem right to cart it off to the landfill.

Harry

Target practice. Or mount it on the roof of your house and tell your neighbors you're going with solar power. :D

Seriously though, if you don't want to pitch it, maybe one of those companies that recycle the metals from connectors and other electronic components may want it. I don't know how much is actually in there that they'd want.

Give your city or county a call, there are sometimes places you can drop them off for proper disposal. Great to see you are taking interest in safe disposal practices.

Heh, you must have had a really bad unit then. HD looks superb on my Phillips, none of the things you saw on yours. If SD on any set looked better than HD on yours, you had a bad unit from day one.

NEVER buy refurb'ed TV's or computers :-)


you must have the only philips to not exhibit false contouring.

Thanks for the responses about disposing of a PDP. My 42pf7320a is still in good shape. I was just curious and disposal was actually a question which crossed my mind before I bought it 1.5 years ago. Hopefully I will be able to sell it off long before disposal becomes the only option.

Harry

Give your city or county a call, there are sometimes places you can drop them off for proper disposal. Great to see you are taking interest in safe disposal practices.
& hope you dont live in a county that is still in the dark ages - I called a couple of years ago asking where to get rid of used anti-freeze & was met with basically a duh never had that asked before!!!! When I was in CA there was a place to bring "hazardous material" to "dump" for free:-)

Heh, you must have had a really bad unit then. HD looks superb on my Phillips, none of the things you saw on yours. If SD on any set looked better than HD on yours, you had a bad unit from day one.

NEVER buy refurb'ed TV's or computers :-)
I will differ with you on the computer aspect as I have purchased 2 laptops from Apple that were refurbs & they arrived in perfect condition & functioned without a hitch (& still do - in one case many years later). I was leary but unless Apple is doing something different I would purchase refurb from them again - just MY experience.

There was a company that made a USB - Optical cable for older macs -- in fact, I remember seeing it when the original Mini's came out, as I thought it was pointless they didn't have optical sound output. But I can't remember what the name was, but I'm sure Google might yield some help ;)
I did a quick search & didnt see anything but you got me thinking I have an ADS Technology USB box that I bought for inputting LP's & it has optical in/out:-) Now I just need to buy another cable...
Thanks!

I finally received my 7220A yesterday after ordering it on 2/27. I'm quite happy with the appearance and picture quality. I did check the run hours on the service menu and there were about 1100 hours on the unit. Other than that, everything (stand, case, panel, etc.) looks brand new. :D Having said that, I also ordered the three year extended warranty from Tapeworks this morning just to be sure. This was the first flat panel HDTV that I saw that met my criterion of 42" and <$1000. I've been looking for a mount to put it on the wall. Has anyone has experience with this mount (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082801&p_id=2852&style=&seq=1&format=4#feedback) from monoprice.com?

I went and took a chance on "factory renewed" 42PF7220A. I love the picture, especially on the few HD channels my local cable company has. I am trying to figure out why I get these red lines appearing occasionally. The seem to follow the contours of faces and figures. First I got white lines like it, then I got red lines. It isn't an all the time thing. Sometimes it doesn't manifest itself, other times it seems like they won't go away. Any ideas?

I went and took a chance on "factory renewed" 42PF7220A. I love the picture, especially on the few HD channels my local cable company has. I am trying to figure out why I get these red lines appearing occasionally. The seem to follow the contours of faces and figures. First I got white lines like it, then I got red lines. It isn't an all the time thing. Sometimes it doesn't manifest itself, other times it seems like they won't go away. Any ideas?
That may be the reason your "renewed" set was "returned" allowing it to become renewed. I bought a 50PF9630 renewed from them, and luckily after 3 weeks no problem. My picture is great so if I was you I would call and get a complaint in immediately. They should fix it. according to Philips, those sets meet factory specs and what you're describing doesn't sound like it meets them. Have you tried a DVD with similar scenes as the ones that create the red lines. It could be your cable signal, but if a dvd does it then the problem is probably in the tv.

Yeah tried it on dvd as well. Still there with the lines. I am not happy at all with Philips service so far. I called, got a number to a repair place they said would come out and look at it. Finally got a hold of these people and they say they don't come out, I must bring the tv in. Strike 1. Then I call back to Philips. They say I don't have a warranty. B.S. I just bought it the 21 of Feb. so now I have to fax in proof of purchase and they will call me back in a couple of days. I am very pissed!! I have bought and spoke highly of Philips/Magnavox for years and now they are definitely dropping the ball.

Sorry, needed to vent. I like my tv, but this issue is getting out of control.

-Tom

P.S. I think i see another color line now too, i think it is blue or green, not sure. Not happy.

This set apparently has been a problem for Phillips and will cost them their reputation with many faithfuls. I have vowed for many years not to buy anything from Phillips, not even a light bulb. However, I actually bought this set since the deal looked very good, but canceled the order before it shipped since I had a feeling it would be more of a headache than something to be happy with. Not sure why they decided to refurbish it and not address all its inherent defects.

i got my set yesterday from phillips and the stand was cracked... functional but i cant put one screw in... i called today and they are sending the part out. i do have a question about dvd and playstation 2 progressive. when i put it in progressive the whole screen shifts to the left which leaves large black bar on the right, and a small on the bottom.. according to the manual (i read it at work and i'm not at the set) you can adjust the screen for hi-def by using the arrow keys on the remote. anyone else have to do this? tv looks great though no dead pixels that i can see so far :)

i got my set yesterday from phillips and the stand was cracked... functional but i cant put one screw in... i called today and they are sending the part out. i do have a question about dvd and playstation 2 progressive. when i put it in progressive the whole screen shifts to the left which leaves large black bar on the right, and a small on the bottom.. according to the manual (i read it at work and i'm not at the set) you can adjust the screen for hi-def by using the arrow keys on the remote. anyone else have to do this? tv looks great though no dead pixels that i can see so far :)
Yea i just got mine on Saturday. Stand was a little dinged up, but it was towards the back I didn't bother asking for a new one. There is a button on the bottom of the remote called "format" **i think** that gives you options on how the zoom is set. Its on the bottom row of buttons on the remote, second from the right i'm pretty sure.

i got my set yesterday from phillips and the stand was cracked... functional but i cant put one screw in... i called today and they are sending the part out. i do have a question about dvd and playstation 2 progressive. when i put it in progressive the whole screen shifts to the left which leaves large black bar on the right, and a small on the bottom.. according to the manual (i read it at work and i'm not at the set) you can adjust the screen for hi-def by using the arrow keys on the remote. anyone else have to do this? tv looks great though no dead pixels that i can see so far :)


Yes you can move the screen that way. If you peruse this thread, you will find that the PS2 ALWAYS leaves black bars on either side, it will not fill up the entire screen, unlike the Wii or other consoles. BTW, the PS2 is not HiDef, even if you are using component cables. Also check the widescreen settings on your PS2 and/or DVD player.

Yeah it worked.. thought the tv was messed up there for a bit. Unfortunate that so few PS2 games are progressive. (burnout dominator looks sweet on it) I'm still trying to locate a hi-def pack for the xbox and progressive cables for the gamecube so i can see how that looks..

Philips is sending me a new stand, well the plastic part at least which is broken. They say it will take a week.

Ybarra you were correct, at least thats what the authorized service rep confirmed, that it is a "bad panel" and he estimates it would cost $1,600 to fix. Obviously I'm not going to repair at that cost. Good luck to the rest of you Philips owners, I hope you don't encounter the same problem, especially 5 months after the warranty expires.

Sorry Jerry. If I could give anyone advice about refurb plasmas...PLEASE buy an extended warranty. Unlike a lot of gadgets, a Plasma has a part that costs 90% of it's original price and the PDP's have a pretty high failure rate as far as electronics go. I bought a 3 year extended warranty for mine and it was new. At least if your unit survives 3 years then you can bet it most likely doesn't have any out-of-spec parts, and if it dies...well you got 3 years of watching out of it.

Sorry Jerry. If I could give anyone advice about refurb plasmas...PLEASE buy an extended warranty. Unlike a lot of gadgets, a Plasma has a part that costs 90% of it's original price and the PDP's have a pretty high failure rate as far as electronics go. I bought a 3 year extended warranty for mine and it was new. At least if your unit survives 3 years then you can bet it most likely doesn't have any out-of-spec parts, and if it dies...well you got 3 years of watching out of it.

My unit was brand new (not a refurb). I think as a consumer who spends two thousand dollars on a TV you expect it to last longer than 4 months after the one year warranty expires, or at the very least the cost to repair is a small fraction of the cost of a new TV. From a business perspective I can understand that Philips cannot give out unlimited warranties, but I think it is a real travesty when they are allowed sell such pieces of crap.

To finish off my Philips experience, my authorized service rep recommended I contact Philips about a "warranty concession." This was the first I ever heard of this, so I called Philips (told them I was 4 months out of warranty) and the guy told me to fax my proof of purchase to their "concession request" department. 5 days later a guy calls me and wonders why I am sending my request, since it is "so far out of warranty." Then he says this is not the correct department and that someone will get back to me in 3-5 business days. Then 3 hours later another person calls and tells my wife the concession request has been declined.

I really wish all you Philips owners the best of luck. I on the other hand will NEVER buy another Philips product for as long as I live.

Refurb + Extended Warranty = Price of a Brand New Unit (if not more)

Refurb + Extended Warranty = Price of a Brand New Unit (if not more)
Not entirely true. My refurbed 50PF9630 (which had 6 hours on it when received) was 850 bucks cheaper than a new 50pf9631 with the philips employee discount which I get through my work. my 3 yr mack warranty was 165 and I found after I got the warranty that this forum has a deal with them,120 for the same thing. Granted there is a little difference between a 9630 & 9631 but not 700 bucks worth.

I didn't know you could get warranties that cheap. Does it cover absolutely everything? Most of the 3 year ones I've seen are upwards of $800

Are they offered by Philips? cause i was never informed of any when i ordered mine.

Are they offered by Philips? cause i was never informed of any when i ordered mine.


Warranties? Sure. I got mailer after mailer from them to buy one - too expensive.

I didn't know you could get warranties that cheap. Does it cover absolutely everything? Most of the 3 year ones I've seen are upwards of $800
They cover anything that the original warranty does and they're in home service too. They will even replace your set if they can't fix it in 3 tries. Check www.mackcam.com.
as I stated earlier, there is a topic on this in this forum that lists price breaks for AVS members

Yeah tried it on dvd as well. Still there with the lines. I am not happy at all with Philips service so far. I called, got a number to a repair place they said would come out and look at it. Finally got a hold of these people and they say they don't come out, I must bring the tv in. Strike 1. Then I call back to Philips. They say I don't have a warranty. B.S. I just bought it the 21 of Feb. so now I have to fax in proof of purchase and they will call me back in a couple of days. I am very pissed!! I have bought and spoke highly of Philips/Magnavox for years and now they are definitely dropping the ball.

Sorry, needed to vent. I like my tv, but this issue is getting out of control.

-Tom

P.S. I think i see another color line now too, i think it is blue or green, not sure. Not happy.


Well, this is frustrating and confusing. Got a service that will come out and pick up the tv and look at it. But now that i have this set up, the mysterious lines have disappeared. Do I want to risk waiting, or sending it in? Spring Break for me coming up and being without a tv would suck. (I am a teacher who just needs to veg a bit). But since the nobody seems to know what is happening (plasma needed to be warmed up? Bad PDP? mysterious anomaly? environment temp?) i am worried about just waiting to see if the problem is really gone.

Any ideas?

best bet is to get rid of it and get something that you can feel wouldn't break or give headaches at anytime. The worrying part is exactly why I canceled my order. Had it been a different brand, I may have not worried that much, but with Phillips man....and especially this inherently defective model....you gotta worry.

... and i got the wrong part for the stand... it was the plastic part that was broken and they sent one of the metal "legs". I called them again and hopefully this time they will send out the right part. I do have to say that even though they sent the wrong part, i got it in two days..

Wow. Just received my Philips 42 inch plasma from their outlet -- the $800 special. Not sure why so many folks are complaining about it here.

It arrived ~1 week after I ordered it. The guys that delivered it were awesome -- it was well boxed/protected and they unpacked everything so I could inspect it. Couldn't turn it on for awhile 'cause it's 5 degrees here in NH today and it was near frozen.

Later in the day I powered it on, scanned the channels, and configured the settings. It arrived with version 1.3 firmware so I updated it to 1.5. I have basic cable and it autodetected a ton of digital and analog channels. The display looks awesome -- much better than my prior 32" Vizio LCD TV. Standard analog pictures looked horrible on the Vizio, but looks quite good on the Philips (relative to the Vizio) and the HD signals look real good. The sound is unimpressive but better than my prior Vizio. I run the audio out signals to my amplified stereo setup and everything sounds very good!

Haven't watched any DVDs yet -- that's next and I'll also connect my media-center PC to it :)

I'm hardly a video geek or audiophile, but this TV gets the job done very well. Unbelieveable for the price! I'll chime-in later if things get worse or it blows up or something...

Congratulations on what has (so far) worked out to be a real steal!

I bought my 7320A/37 in August of last year and was able to compare it heads-up to a Sony WEGA CRT (albeit one with a ten-inch screen size disadvantage), as both were temporarily in the same room (I was waiting on the mount for the Philips so it could go to its permanent digs). When both were showing the same content (the Sony was NOT HD-built-in, so we're talking SD vs. SD from the same source - Comcast cable) the Philips was every bit the equal of the Sony CRT; however, when the Philips was tuned to HD (especially 1080i), the Sony plain and simply got smoked, and smoked badly. It's one thing to tie the known King of CRTs (Trinitron WEGA) basically on its own turf; it's quite another to flat-out *embarrass* it.

Now, a little more than six months later, the Philips is *still* kicking butt and not even bothering to take names (especially when it comes to better-than-SD content (DVD and HD content)); I'll be watching the remake of "Manchurian Candidate" on TNT-HD Sunday night (and "Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone" on ABC Family tomorrow, in addition to March Madness the entire rest of the month) and I will definitely have my smirk on....

Hey Guys - Those of you who have experienced the "black screen", did you have audio when that occured or did audio go away as well?
Thanks In Advance
P.S. I was able to click to another station that was OK & I immediately clicked back to the NASCAR race & it was then OK. Im thinking the station (ABC) had a "blip" & Im just being paranoid:-)

Warranties? Sure. I got mailer after mailer from them to buy one - too expensive.

Ya, I get those same mailers all the time too, they started coming just before the factory warranty expired and have been coming ever since. I agree 100% that the extended warranty is way too expensive, heck, with the prices of PDP's getting lower and lower why bother with an expensive warranty that probably won't cover much anyways ( if you've read all the gripes of the original factory warrnty issues ) for the price of the ext. warranty you can just buy a new PDP.
I have never had to worry about extending the warranty as I bought my display at S-club and found out they offer lifetime returns on the products such as this that they sell. See they honor the product unlike the manufacturer ??? go figure.

You know if Philips spent as much time and effort honoring their own products as they spend on paper and mailings and the cost of trying to get consumers to purchase ext. warranties, they just might get some more repeat buyers.

All in all though I have been very satisfied with my 7320 and firmware updates have fixed any problems I have had so far. My viewing experience especially HD content has been awesome!!!!

Hey Guys - Those of you who have experienced the "black screen", did you have audio when that occured or did audio go away as well?
Thanks In Advance
P.S. I was able to click to another station that was OK & I immediately clicked back to the NASCAR race & it was then OK. Im thinking the station (ABC) had a "blip" & Im just being paranoid:-)

It sounds like you just had a momentary signal loss, kinda like the audio drop when changing channels issue. If I recall correctly when i had the bs issue the pic and sound would go away and I could not even change channels or do anything else momentarily until the pic would come back on , all by itself of course, then everything would go back to normal again.

I use to have an audio issue where the audio would go away, I would change to another channel and back and the sound was there again.

I wouldn't worry too much about unless it continues to do this on a regular basis :) Also version 1.4 fixed any bs issue I had in the past.

Thanks - Just me being excitable:-)

Well I got the tv back today! It took awhile to get parts but MACK Camera paid over $875 to fix the tv to replace the Small Signal Board so... the $120 warranty paid big on this one and I would reccomend it to all! An extended warranty is not something you ever want to use but it saved me big on this one.

(can anyone reccomend a good solution for a shelf or something to hold a box type center channel on this tv)

Well I got the tv back today! It took awhile to get parts but MACK Camera paid over $875 to fix the tv to replace the Small Signal Board so... the $120 warranty paid big on this one and I would reccomend it to all! An extended warranty is not something you ever want to use but it saved me big on this one.

(can anyone reccomend a good solution for a shelf or something to hold a box type center channel on this tv)
has it been gone for repair since your last post on 1/24/07? Is it fixed? Perspiring minds want to know :D

It has been about 2.5 months since it broke right after the new year and overall Mack only took about a week of the total time for approval and payment after the estimate, the repair shop was a little slow and lost the credit card number mack gave them and the part got backordered for three weeks, I wasted the other month myself due to time.

Well I got the tv back today! It took awhile to get parts but MACK Camera paid over $875 to fix the tv to replace the Small Signal Board so... the $120 warranty paid big on this one and I would reccomend it to all! An extended warranty is not something you ever want to use but it saved me big on this one.

(can anyone reccomend a good solution for a shelf or something to hold a box type center channel on this tv)

First off is your display mounted on the wall ??? If not I just saw a nice flat panel stand at W-MART, I did not see it listed on their on-line catalog yet but in store only.
It's very attractive with dark cherry wood accents around the front of the frame. I t has a metal vertical bracket that extends straight up from the back edge with mounting brackets built on it to mount the t.v. almost as it is wall mounted but without having to drill and mount into the wall itself ( good thing for renters ). the stand itself is very nice, wide but not protruding out too far, perfect for home audio gear and a speaker on the top shelf. Top, middle and lower shelves are black glass and the rest of the frame is black metal. It is one of the nicest stands I have seen either in person or on line, I have been searching for a nice piece of furniture for my display and this piece is perfect for my needs. The wood even matches the wood on my couches. It's priced in the lower 200's which is much cheaper than most true furniture stores or on-line t.v. stands, and the quality looks very nice for wallyworld. There seems to be plenty of room between the mounted t.v. and the top shelf for a fairly large center channel speaker. I showed the wife and she agreed that it was a nice and perfect match for her too. :D

It has been about 2.5 months since it broke right after the new year and overall Mack only took about a week of the total time for approval and payment after the estimate, the repair shop was a little slow and lost the credit card number mack gave them and the part got backordered for three weeks, I wasted the other month myself due to time.
Thanks.
I have a Mack 3yr on my 50pf9630 from the Philips outlet so I was curious as to how well they handled things. Is your tv working correctly now?

O.K. -- just a few weeks into it, but I'm still VERY pleased with my Philips refurb. I liked it so much, I purchased one of their "home theatre in a box" deals for $99. I'm hardly an audio/video-phile, but I know what I like.

This TV arrived with 40 hours on the screen, and my HD, SD, and DVD videos look outstanding (to me) -- better than any other TV I've owned. The plastic TV stand had a broken stand-off. I called Philips support and then sent a brand spankin' new one in three days. No complaints. Firmware updates were a breeze. The sound coming thru my new Philips HTIB sounds awesome (to me). I'm a very happy camper on a small budget. Watching and listening to my new setup with a major smirk ;)

Just hope the thrill continues and nothing breaks...

My only problem now? I fully expect my ex-wife to request more alimony and child support because she'll assume I'm blowing thousands of dollars on home entertainment ;)

My 7220 works fine with the QAM tuner and component inputs. But I bought a new upconverting DVD player with HDMI and both HDMI inputs don't seem to work properly. The signal drops out more than half the time and is completely unwatchable. :( I took the DVD player to a friend's house and it works just fine on a Vizio LCD TV, so it appears that my TV is the problem. I guess it's time to call the infamous Philips customer service. I'm so glad that I bought the Mack extended warranty for possible future problems.

My unit was brand new (not a refurb). I think as a consumer who spends two thousand dollars on a TV you expect it to last longer than 4 months after the one year warranty expires, or at the very least the cost to repair is a small fraction of the cost of a new TV. From a business perspective I can understand that Philips cannot give out unlimited warranties, but I think it is a real travesty when they are allowed sell such pieces of crap.

To finish off my Philips experience, my authorized service rep recommended I contact Philips about a "warranty concession." This was the first I ever heard of this, so I called Philips (told them I was 4 months out of warranty) and the guy told me to fax my proof of purchase to their "concession request" department. 5 days later a guy calls me and wonders why I am sending my request, since it is "so far out of warranty." Then he says this is not the correct department and that someone will get back to me in 3-5 business days. Then 3 hours later another person calls and tells my wife the concession request has been declined.

I really wish all you Philips owners the best of luck. I on the other hand will NEVER buy another Philips product for as long as I live.

Jerry - with all due respect, do you actually think Philips manufactures the PDP's? They do NOT. For instance, I have the 9630A which has a Samsung PDP in it. Philips can't honor a 1 and a half year warranty on a part they didn't make and that they themselves have to pay another company for. If you had bought a Samsung or a Sony plasma and the screen died, you'd still be in the same boat and they have less of an excuse. Yeah, it sucks, but that's the way it is when you buy something that has a part that costs 90% of the price of the whole unit. New or used, I still am an advocate of extended warranties in this case, and believe me...I HATE extended warranties and avoid buying them like the plague because they usually are borderline a scam, but on a plasma I felt I had no choice. It was either deal w/ the extended warranty or buy a different technology. I can't imagine being someone who spent so much money on a wonderful item to only fret day-in and day-out about whether or not it is going to break and then hoping it's not the PDP when it does.

My 7220 works fine with the QAM tuner and component inputs. But I bought a new upconverting DVD player with HDMI and both HDMI inputs don't seem to work properly. The signal drops out more than half the time and is completely unwatchable. :( I took the DVD player to a friend's house and it works just fine on a Vizio LCD TV, so it appears that my TV is the problem. I guess it's time to call the infamous Philips customer service. I'm so glad that I bought the Mack extended warranty for possible future problems.
It turns out that it was likely pilot error causing problems with my DVD player/HDMI input problems. I think I had conflicting settings on the Samsung player, setting the video for 720p but not setting the P.scan setting to 720p as well. Once I got them synchronized, it's been working fine. My bad.

Since I bought the 7220 refurbished, I didn't receive the CD that is normally included with the TV. Is there anything useful on it? The hardcopy manual implies that there's a more detailed version on the disk, but I couldn't find anything available on the Philips site for download.

EDIT: Dohhh! I looked more carefully at the online manual here (http://www.p4c.philips.com/na4/4/42pf7220a_37b/42pf7220a_37b_dfu_aen.pdf) and it is clearly about twice as long as the hardcopy manual. I guess I was thrown off by the fact that the manual looks basically the same and isn't all that much longer. My apologies for the mistaken request.

What firmware upgrade did you install and what was firmware before you installed it ??. You can check this in your tv's os menu and see which is the current version that is running. You definately need to install 1.4 to fix this issue.
If you have installed 1.4 before it is possible the upgrade did not load correctly then you would have to downgrade back to 1.3 then upgrade back to 1.4 to see if this fixes your problem.
If you are getting an intermiitent red flashing light then it is a circuitry issue which usually requires a service call to repair, but try the firmware first.

I did the downgrade/upgrade. According to the menu, they did take but no improvement.
I have noticed that the set clicks loudly when going off and on and that it even does it when it is turned off but still connected to power.
I keep holding out hope that I will discover a solution but no dice.
Of course, like everyone else I have found Philips support to be of no help. They referred me to a repair vendor but he won't work on it and could not give me a name of anyone who would.
Any other ideas folks?

Ybarra, I agree with mostly what you say, however when I bought my TV, the 2 additional years of warranty was $499.99 and I knew the price of plasma's, especially 720P untis, were going to drop.

On a pleasant note, after giving up all hope I sent a "friendly" email to the CEO of Philips, of course not expecting to hear back from him or anyone else. But within 2 days he replied and 2 days later a representative from the Presidential Escalations group contacted me. To make a long story short, free of charge, they shipped to me a refurbished TV to replace my plasma, even though the panel went bad 4 months out of warranty, and they picked up my old TV. For the curious individuals, the refurbished set had 2340 hours of usage on it. So as much as I have bashed Philips, I have to give them the credit for a job well done.

Of course now I'm saying a little prayer before I go to bed each night that my TV wakes up working the next day :)

do you have some email addresses handy? I sent one to support but it came back
thx

do you have some email addresses handy? I sent one to support but it came back
thx

Here is a link to contact information for the Management Team. I'm not sure this is the standard route to go though. Good Luck.

http://www.usa.philips.com/about/company/local/management/index.html

I purchased a 42PF7220A/37B from Philips outlet in August. The TV has worked great until this past weekend. When the TV is powered on now the lower half flickers off and on. Sometimes it will stay on other it will just act like there is no power on the lower half. Sadly the warranty was only 90 days. I cannot get an extended warranty. If behaves like a loose connection. For those with more knowledge have you ever heard of this type of issue. Will the service menu log give more information? Any help would be appreciated.
I also had this issue, but initially on the upper half of the screen, then it began on the lower half too, and now sometimes it goes completely black.
Any ideas?

I also had this issue, but initially on the upper half of the screen, then it began on the lower half too, and now sometimes it goes completely black.
Any ideas?

Well I purchased mine June 2006 but this problem just started last month. I have only experienced the full black screen a couple times. My current problem is I purchased mine at Sears but now live in Panama. If anyone knows of how to fix this problem, please let me know.

SSBandit

This TV arrived with 40 hours on the screen...


May I ask how you are able to tell how many hours have been used?

SSbandit

How NOT to ship a Plasma TV:

http://geekologie.com/2007/05/how_not_to_ship_a_plasma_tv.php

:eek:

How NOT to ship a Plasma TV:

http://geekologie.com/2007/05/how_not_to_ship_a_plasma_tv.php

:eek:
People have absolutely no clue as to package things properly & most folks who are in the shipping dept. have 0 pride of workmanship, when you add in UPS & their goal to thoroughly beat the hell out of every package they handle its a miracle half the stuff you get doesnt look like the poor TV shown in the pics!

Well I purchased mine June 2006 but this problem just started lst month. I have only experienced the full black screen a couple times. My current problem is I purchased mine at Sears but now live in Panama. If anyone nows of how to fix this problem, please let me know.

SSBandit
I opened the TV, cleaned the contacts and instaled two fans.

I opened the TV, cleaned the contacts and instaled two fans.
Hi corsario - did that fix/cure your problem? It would be good info if you could post the fan specs & how you mounted & connected them:-)

I opened the TV, cleaned the contacts and instaled two fans.

Was it hard to open? Which contacts did you clean? Did you use regular computer fans and what powered the fans?

Thanks for your help.

SSBandit

How NOT to ship a Plasma TV:

:eek:

Mine made it here to Panama just fine and worked great for almost a year; getting the same problems as others that have not shipped their TV anywhere.

SSBandit

For all of us having blank screen problems or half blank/flickering problems. It
may be that your TV is tilted too much also. I straightened my TV from tilting down to being as straight/flat as possible. Now for the past couple nights the half black/flickering screen it taking longer to come. The first night it took about 45 mins to start; before it was about 20 mins. The second night it took over an hour to start, then an 1 hour 45 mins the third night. Last night it took about two hours then I cut it off for two hours and after turning it back on it did not come abck again for the three hours I had it running. I am sure it will come back tonight at some time but hopefully more than two hours.

I am still going to try and open it and clean any contacts and install fans; anything that will prevent the problem all together.

Hope this helps someone.

SSBandit

Hey all

Well I'm unhappy to say I have joined the BS club :-( This after having zero problems for nearly two years - think I'll get a warranty exemption? I think not.

Started this morning, TV went black, red light flashing. I unplugged the TV, went home for lunch, it came on fine for about 15 mins, the black again. Needless to say I'm quite pissed off.

I read earlier on about downgrading to 1.3 then back up --- but where are the older FW's archived? I doubt this is going to work, but I might as well try.

Alas.

Hey all

Well I'm unhappy to say I have joined the BS club :-( This after having zero problems for nearly two years - think I'll get a warranty exemption? I think not.

Started this morning, TV went black, red light flashing. I unplugged the TV, went home for lunch, it came on fine for about 15 mins, the black again. Needless to say I'm quite pissed off.

I read earlier on about downgrading to 1.3 then back up --- but where are the older FW's archived? I doubt this is going to work, but I might as well try.

Alas.
I will not welcome you to the team since it is not a wanted welcome for anyone. Searching this thread I found this website listed by sgr15 (http://home.comcast.net/~sgr215/firmware.htm). He has all the firmware versions as far as I can tell.
I guess I can try that also and see what happens. :-(

I will not welcome you to the team since it is not a wanted welcome for anyone. Searching this thread I found this website listed by sgr15 (http://home.comcast.net/~sgr215/firmware.htm). He has all the firmware versions as far as I can tell.
I guess I can try that also and see what happens. :-(


Yea, thanks I found that earlier today too. Needless to say I tried .... didn't help. I went down to 1.3, then up to 1.5, where I was before. I don't know why I did this particular combo ... anyhow ... I began to get hopeful cause watching OTA actually lasted 20 mins until the BS. I thought maybe my cable box was sending a weird signal or something, but no matter what input, the BS always happens. So we had to watch Lost season finale tonight in SD.

I guess I should be happy mine lasted 18 months .... I've read reviews here, and on Amazon's site and .... geezus, some ppl had these things go bad in less than a month, then spent more months in warranty service, and still not having them work right.

I offer my apologies to everyone since I defended this TV for so long. If I can get this fixed via software, I will keep the TV but I'm sure not spending money and time putting it into a shop.

FWIW, I wrote an email to the CEO listed on the site posted above. I'm actually surprised there hasn't been a class action lawsuit yet. Or (haha) a recall? Wishful thinking. Sadly, I don't have the funds to replace the HDTV right now either.

:mad: :( :confused:

Well I've tried just about everything ... still pretty dead in the water.

Has anyone had this TV repaired ... ball park estimate?

Well I've tried just about everything ... still pretty dead in the water.

Has anyone had this TV repaired ... ball park estimate?

You're not going to fix the BSD with software, betcha it'e the small signal board (SSB). I had mine repaired under warranty but it was never right again...colors were off, drops channels, etc.

You're not going to fix the BSD with software, betcha it'e the small signal board (SSB). I had mine repaired under warranty but it was never right again...colors were off, drops channels, etc.

Yea my warranty is long up, so I was just wondering what the ballpark is before I decide to get it fixed or try to sell it for parts :rolleyes:

EDIT: Wow -- I just got an email reply from Mr. Zeven -- I was beginning to think he'd never get back to me, but he said he'd been on a trip. He said he would send me a detailed email tonight, so I'll post an update when I hear anything.

Yea my warranty is long up, so I was just wondering what the ballpark is before I decide to get it fixed or try to sell it for parts :rolleyes:

EDIT: Wow -- I just got an email reply from Mr. Zeven -- I was beginning to think he'd never get back to me, but he said he'd been on a trip. He said he would send me a detailed email tonight, so I'll post an update when I hear anything.
He always says that. He'll have one of executive liazons contact you to arrange repairs. If they fix it, check everything to make sure it's working correctly before you accept it, especially the color temp options. If they are screwed up, you'll find other issues later.

He always says that. He'll have one of executive liazons contact you to arrange repairs. If they fix it, check everything to make sure it's working correctly before you accept it, especially the color temp options. If they are screwed up, you'll find other issues later.

Well I guess its better than being ignored.

Mr. Zeven's "presidential liason" came through for me...completely replaced my set 4 months out of warranty with a refurbished one, so far so good..."knock on wood" Of course, I'm already stashing away a few bucks each paycheck for the eventual replacement.

My BS problem happened while still in warranty, and took over a month to be repaired. I have to admit though, I haven't had a BS or any other major problems with the set since (except that now I can't get 2.1, 3.1, etc). Like IcemanDallas said, as soon as you get it back, test every input, all features and different channels to make sure you're still getting everything.

Mr. Zeven's "presidential liason" came through for me...completely replaced my set 4 months out of warranty with a refurbished one, so far so good..."knock on wood" Of course, I'm already stashing away a few bucks each paycheck for the eventual replacement.


I've had less than a good experience. All the "presidential liason" would offer me is a one time out of warranty exemption, which only covers parts, not labor, AND I have to haul it to a service center.

He denied up-and-down any knowledge of a wide spread "black screen" problem with any of their sets, even though when I started talking about the specific parts he flowed right along with the conversation. He used an analogy I thought was funny:

"You know, if you buy a car, things can go wrong, mechanical things do break."

To which I said:

"Yes, and car companies offer three year warranties, AND when there is a widespread defect, the initiate recalls to satisfy their customers."

He was pretty quiet after that, and I made sure he knew I'd never buy another Philips product again.

If the labor is too much I might not even bother to get it fixed. The entire situation sucks.

I've had less than a good experience. All the "presidential liason" would offer me is a one time out of warranty exemption, which only covers parts, not labor, AND I have to haul it to a service center.

He denied up-and-down any knowledge of a wide spread "black screen" problem with any of their sets, even though when I started talking about the specific parts he flowed right along with the conversation. He used an analogy I thought was funny:

"You know, if you buy a car, things can go wrong, mechanical things do break."

To which I said:

"Yes, and car companies offer three year warranties, AND when there is a widespread defect, the initiate recalls to satisfy their customers."

He was pretty quiet after that, and I made sure he knew I'd never buy another Philips product again.

If the labor is too much I might not even bother to get it fixed. The entire situation sucks.

I had a feeling they might do that to you. It is unconscionable that they would not admit that the problem is widespread. :mad: You should have pointed him to the Amazon website which has lots of user feedback on this model. This company is nothing more than a bunch of carnival hucksters. :rolleyes:

I had a feeling they might do that to you. It is unconscionable that they would not admit that the problem is widespread. :mad: You should have pointed him to the Amazon website which has lots of user feedback on this model. This company is nothing more than a bunch of carnival hucksters. :rolleyes:

That link, and others, were in m original email to him. I don't think it matters much to them, they already gotz their $$$.

I sent Mr. Zeven a final email stating my unhappiness with even his "presidential liason" solution. I know it probably doesn't matter but ... made me feel better. Well, not really, but you know what I mean, hehe.

Just got an email from someone stating there is new firmware out. Wish I could give credit to whoever it was that emailed me but I don't know your user-name; thank you though!

Here's a direct link to the firmware:

http://www.p4c.philips.com/na4/4/42pf7320a_37b/42pf7320a_37b_fus_eng.zip

Version info:

BX23U-1.6.0.0_03541
Following problems are solved:
• Non-active digital antenna channels lost when cable is disconnected.

The new firmware should work on the following models:

32PF7320A/37
32PF9630A/37
37PF7320A/37
42PF7220A/37
42PF7320A/37
42PF9630A/37
42PF9730A/37
42PF9830A/37
50PF7220A/37
50PF7320A/37
50PF9630A/37
50PF9830A/37

On a side note anyone who has used my site to get older firmwares will notice it no longer exists as of Monday. This is because I'm switching from Comcast (where its hosted) to Verizon FIOS. I've got class in a few but I'll get a new site up later tonight and post it here.

P.S. black_macleod, try upgrading if you can. Although it seems like your problem is hardware related perhaps a miracle will happen? :(

Just got an email from someone stating there is new firmware out. Wish I could give credit to whoever it was that emailed me but I don't know your user-name; thank you though!

Here's a direct link to the firmware:

http://www.p4c.philips.com/na4/4/42pf7320a_37b/42pf7320a_37b_fus_eng.zip

Version info:

BX23U-1.6.0.0_03541
Following problems are solved:
• Non-active digital antenna channels lost when cable is disconnected.

The new firmware should work on the following models:

32PF7320A/37
32PF9630A/37
37PF7320A/37
42PF7220A/37
42PF7320A/37
42PF9630A/37
42PF9730A/37
42PF9830A/37
50PF7220A/37
50PF7320A/37
50PF9630A/37
50PF9830A/37

On a side note anyone who has used my site to get older firmwares will notice it no longer exists as of Monday. This is because I'm switching from Comcast (where its hosted) to Verizon FIOS. I've got class in a few but I'll get a new site up later tonight and post it here.

P.S. black_macleod, try upgrading if you can. Although it seems like your problem is hardware related perhaps a miracle will happen? :(

Probably but I'm all over it!

Anyone else try the upgrade? I did mine, and it said it failed to take, contact dealer blah blah. But when I restarted the TV it lists version 1.6 ... and the TV has been running for over an hour now. Fingers Crossed, hehe.

Anyone else try the upgrade? I did mine, and it said it failed to take, contact dealer blah blah. But when I restarted the TV it lists version 1.6 ... and the TV has been running for over an hour now. Fingers Crossed, hehe.

I upgraded with no issues except for an error I've always gotten while upgrading firmware. I forget the exact error but it upgraded fine. Good luck to you!

I've come to the conclusion I won't be buying a Philips plasma TV again either. Although my TV is still working I've had some unusual occurrences like the BS or rare times where it refuses to boot up unless I unplug it. Reliability is a major concern when dealing with Philips it seems.

Imagine all the poor suckers who can't find this site to get the necessary help with their Philips. Thanks guys for all your help and posts. And even though my plasma is working fine at the moment, I won't even buy a Philips light bulb in the future.

I have the 42PF7320A/37B and am having problems getting a Comcast cablecard (Motorola brand) to work. The Comcast rep tried installing 3 different cards but then we couldn't figure out how to get the Host and Data numbers needed to activate the card.

According to Philips customer support line, these host and data numbers should appear on the screen after you install the card, but I don't see them. The user manual (page 18) shows a CableCard Applications item in the main Settings menu, but that doesn't appear on my menu either.

For those of you who have successfully installed the cablecard, what is the sequence of events that I should follow to install. Or what am I supposed to see on the screen to get to the Host and Data numbers?? Also, how far do I have to push in the card? I insert it with the back of the card facing the front of the TV, until it appears to snap into place, with about half-inch of the card sticking out.

I tried the same card on my neighbor's TV, which is the 50 inch version, and we see the same behavior (no obvious way to get the host/data numbers). We are both using the latest firmward posted on the Philips site. Am I missing something obvious during the cablecard install? Or could it be that all 3 Moto cablecards were all bad (the comcast rep admitted he hadn't installed on of these in a long time) ??

Thanks for any ideas. I am just trying to avoid having a STB (dont need VOD) now that Comcast Chicago has gone all digital, so getting this card to work would be great!

Anyone else try the upgrade? I did mine, and it said it failed to take, contact dealer blah blah. But when I restarted the TV it lists version 1.6 ... and the TV has been running for over an hour now. Fingers Crossed, hehe.


BTW, my black screen started happening again, the TV is unwatchable.

I had another visit from Comast-Chicago rep today to try installing the motorola CableCard again. It was a different rep from last week and seemed a bit more knowledgable about installation. He brought 2 different cards but the 42PF7320A/37B did not recognize either card again. When inserted, nothing happened. Nothing displayed on the screen or menus. But when we pull out the card, the TV displays a message like: CableCard not detected, please insert the cablecard again and hit OK. This message tells me that the TV was aware that something was inserted, it just was not able to detect it as a valid cablecard.

Since I tried the cablecard on my neighbor's similar Philips plasma tv and got the same behavior of not recognizing the card, and the same message upon removal of the card, the problem can't be my TV, but either the firmware on the TV or the card itself. The comcast rep says the motorola card is the only card they use.

So my only other idea is to try rolling back the firmware. I'm currently using BX23U-1.5.0.0_03531. If this doesn't work, I will probably just give up and get a STB.

Any other suggestions? Can someone at least tell me if they see the "CableCard Applications" in the toplevel Settings menu of the 42PF7320A/37B, as shown on page 18 of the Philips user manual? I have no idea if this is a menu item that is always displayed, or only shows up when a cablecard is detected.

If anyone has a way to access diagnostics menu on this TV, that would be great too.

Thanks!



I have the 42PF7320A/37B and am having problems getting a Comcast cablecard (Motorola brand) to work. The Comcast rep tried installing 3 different cards but then we couldn't figure out how to get the Host and Data numbers needed to activate the card.

According to Philips customer support line, these host and data numbers should appear on the screen after you install the card, but I don't see them. The user manual (page 18) shows a CableCard Applications item in the main Settings menu, but that doesn't appear on my menu either.

For those of you who have successfully installed the cablecard, what is the sequence of events that I should follow to install. Or what am I supposed to see on the screen to get to the Host and Data numbers?? Also, how far do I have to push in the card? I insert it with the back of the card facing the front of the TV, until it appears to snap into place, with about half-inch of the card sticking out.

I tried the same card on my neighbor's TV, which is the 50 inch version, and we see the same behavior (no obvious way to get the host/data numbers). We are both using the latest firmward posted on the Philips site. Am I missing something obvious during the cablecard install? Or could it be that all 3 Moto cablecards were all bad (the comcast rep admitted he hadn't installed on of these in a long time) ??

Thanks for any ideas. I am just trying to avoid having a STB (dont need VOD) now that Comcast Chicago has gone all digital, so getting this card to work would be great!

I just sent my email to Philips, hoping they write or call since I live in Panama.

Just a heads up for anyone who uses the previous firmwares for my site, Comcast has deactivated it since I moved to FiOS. It's now located at:

http://www.freewebtown.com/sgr215/

I've deleted nearly everything except for the firmware page since that seemed to be the most popular part of the site and everything else was out of date anyways. If anyone feels the entire site should remain up let me know via PM and I'll upload it.

My TV suddenly stopped working today. I was watching discovery HD when suddenly the screen went black and started flashing random splotches of color. You can't see any of the normal video and all you see is really weird colors in various spots while the rest of the screen is black. When I look at the back of the TV I hear a buzz noise and see a blinking green led through the fan holes of the TV. The green led in front stays green and never shows any error sequence. I noticed that the TV was making numerous popping and cracking noises over the last week so I guess it was slowly dieing.

Unfortunately my TV is out of warranty yet its only a year and a half old. Considering what I spent on this television it is totally unacceptable that the TV only lasted one and a half years. I've emailed Paul Zeven and am awaiting his response. :(

It seems like all of us who bought this TV suddenly are seeing it die after a little over a year of use. The failure rate of this particular model seems well above industry standards. :mad:

My TV suddenly stopped working today. I was watching discovery HD when suddenly the screen went black and started flashing random splotches of color. You can't see any of the normal video and all you see is really weird colors in various spots while the rest of the screen is black. When I look at the back of the TV I hear a buzz noise and see a blinking green led through the fan holes of the TV. The green led in front stays green and never shows any error sequence. I noticed that the TV was making numerous popping and cracking noises over the last week so I guess it was slowly dieing.

Unfortunately my TV is out of warranty yet its only a year and a half old. Considering what I spent on this television it is totally unacceptable that the TV only lasted one and a half years. I've emailed Paul Zeven and am awaiting his response. :(

It seems like all of us who bought this TV suddenly are seeing it die after a little over a year of use. The failure rate of this particular model seems well above industry standards. :mad:
Hi sgr - sorry to hear of the problem - I believe a large part of the failure rate of these sets is that there is NOT a fan in them. The holes you are looking through are merely vent holes. Just my 2 pennies worth:-)

Hi sgr - sorry to hear of the problem - I believe a large part of the failure rate of these sets is that there is NOT a fan in them. The holes you are looking through are merely vent holes. Just my 2 pennies worth:-)

I wouldn't doubt that and if that is the case I would be interested to know if the newer models have a fan? This reminds me of the Xbox 360. Tons of failures started happening due to overheating, MS denied it, and then suddenly newer 360's have an upgraded heatsink/cooling system.

I'm still waiting on Paul Zeven to respond.

How bizarre, the new 1.6 firmware is not listed for my 42PF7220A/37.. wonder if that is an oversight or if there is a minor difference in parts/circuits/chips? From the info on the back label the manufacturing date is "July 2006", and is chassis "BP2.3U AA".

Luckily (and I knock on wood and pray to %DEITY% that it stays this way) I have not had any problems on any of the firmware. Currently running 1.5, have an upscaling DVD hooked up over HDMI, AND have a working perfectly Cable Card from Comcast.

I have only had a BS three times, all within a period of two weeks this last January. All three times was within a few minutes of turning the unit on and went from working to black screen, no sound, and a red flashing light. Unplugged for a few minutes, replugged, and was good to go after that each time. Man, I was starting to freak when that happened, but nothing since then. IIRC, those three times were during one of the coldest parts of this winter for us in Massachusetts, and the TV is against an outside wall and very near windows. Could have just been too cold for it (we also keep our heat low, even lower when we are not home).

We bought it last August direct from Philips new (not a refurb), so we're quickly coming up on the 1 year warranty mark. I'm going to be watching like a hawk for any signs of problems so I can call "Customer Service" and try to get some action. Of course I found this thread a few months after purchasing the TV. Even though it has been smooth sailing, I wish that I had known sooner so I could have bought another brand.

Has anyone filed a Better Business Bureau report against Philips with their experiences along with references to this thread and the Amazon reviews? Seems like a pretty solid case.

Has anyone filed a Better Business Bureau report against Philips with their experiences along with references to this thread and the Amazon reviews? Seems like a pretty solid case.
I think the BBB is really geared more toward "small business" not corporations but hey it might be worth a shot. It seems most companies are figuring out they actually need to provide customer service not just lip service but Philips has yet to sign on to that theory it seems!

I think the BBB is really geared more toward "small business" not corporations

I was always under the impression that they were advocates for better business period. Large, small, what ever. Philips Consumer Electronics does have a page and they are a member of the BBB.

Here's the link from the mail BBB page for Philips:

http://www.knoxville.bbb.org/commonreport.html?bid=4975

If you scroll down they show the number of complaints in various catogories and what the resolutions were (if any). The BBB will follow up on any complaint that you make.


On another note, I logged into Philips to check my warranty status, and i still have the option to purchase the 2 year extended warranty. It is $389. Anyone think that it is worth it? Is this the warranty that others have taken up? (direct through Philips?)