I found an interesting post in the "Poll: Philips Plasma TV - Half Black Screen" thread, by someone who thinks he may have fixed his set.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15057295#post15057295

I have had my 42PF7320A since November of 2005. I first noticed the half black screen problem in the summer of 2007. I don't often have the set on for long periods, and I normally only see it a few times a month. It will often go away for quite a while if I power cycle the TV. For now, I can live with it. I am not willing to spend anything on it. (I noticed Sam's Club carries the new 42" 120HZ Vizio LCD for $1000 - I would never buy another Plasma because of the heat.) If it got unwatchable, I planned to just toss it or give it away to anyone that would take it.

Since there is no cost involved, if the situation deteriorates significantly, I would probably try what that poster did before I got rid of it.

In regards to the half blank screen, mine started occuring intermittently then progressively got worse than one day, the TV would no longer power up.

The front panel LED is flashing red 7 times, which I have found means a bad power supply. This happened after I had the TV for about 25 months.

I guess these run about $400-500 if you self-install. More if you have a service guy do it.

If any one knows where to get the power supply for cheap, post the info.

(I noticed Sam's Club carries the new 42" 120HZ Vizio LCD for $1000 - I would never buy another Plasma because of the heat.) If it got unwatchable, I planned to just toss it or give it away to anyone that would take it.


I agree they do get hot BUT so do LCD's. Go to your local Best Buy or Circuit City & feel the heat the LCD's give off, they're not that much different. & check the specs, Plasmas & LCD's are about the same wattage for a given screen size (with LCD's being slightly less typically, like 10 or 20 watts)

I agree they do get hot BUT so do LCD's. Go to your local Best Buy or Circuit City & feel the heat the LCD's give off, they're not that much different. & check the specs, Plasmas & LCD's are about the same wattage for a given screen size (with LCD's being slightly less typically, like 10 or 20 watts)
My 40" Samsung LCD gets nowhere near as hot as the Philips.

40" Samsung LCD = 195 Watts
42" Philips Plasma = 400 Watts

btw:
Just be aware that those Vizio LCD's won't give you near the PQ of name brand LCD's.
That's why they cost less.

Also, prices for 40-46" LCD from name brands are starting to hover around $1000 during sales and will become the norm soon.

Yes there are. My Harmony 890 has them. I'll see if I can get them.

I had an issue with the remote on power on. If the harmony turned on the TV, then switched to an input too soon the display would go black. Turns out the tv needs almost 9 seconds before a different input is selected.
Hi Guys,

I am trying to configure my Philips 42PF7320A with my Harmony H659. The H659 does not have discrete codes for power ON and OFF for the TV. Does anyone know what these codes are? Right now the remote only toggles the power and that causes problems in my configuration. Please help me find the discrete ON/OFF codes as I think some of you with the Harmony 800 series have these codes. That will be a big help!

Thanks.

My Philips HDTV is 2 years old, maybe 2 and a few months at most. It's worked fine until yesterday. Now, it begins to power up, does not show anything on the screen, I get a blip or two of audio, and then I hear the click as it powers off. Once it does that, the green LED goes red, and blinks in patterns of 7 rapid red blinks, followed by a few seconds of no blinking, and then repeats.

Philips told me it "might" be an electrostatic discharge. They also said it "might" be old firmware (which I can't upgrade since I have no screen to access the upgrade menu). They also said it "might" be something else, but they "are not qualified" to tell me what, precisely. I've been instructed to bring it to a repair place for diagnostics. I live in the San Francisco Freakin Bay Area -- in Fremont no less, a city of 250,000 people and they're telling me the two closest places to take it are in Oakland (31 miles) and San Jose (39 miles)!

I'm LIVID. No television should last a mere 2ish years before going out, especially one that was nearly $2,000. This is ridiculous.

Has anyone else had this problem? If so, can you tell me what the problem was, the cause, and what had to be done to repair it? I'd like to get some more insight into the potential issues and problems before I drag the thing in for repairs.

Also, if any body has had any luck getting Philips to spring for the bill after the warranty ran out on the grounds that this is an absurdly huge problem to have on a still very-new television, I'd love to hear how.


@#&^*@^#!@#*^!&@#^*!@#&^% grumble...


Dan

Dan, per the Philipps service manual, your 8.6Vdc supply is defective...

7 flashes: 8V6 supply | P Stby μP | n.a. / Protection + Error blinking.

(i.e. 8.6Vdc supply is bad. It was detected by the stand-by microprocessor device. Protection was activated (TV stays off) and the blinking LEDs flash the code)

I don't know why they could not tell you this.

FYI... I have a 7220 plasma display in use longer than you and it is still working just fine. Thye 7220 is practically identical to your 7320.

Thank you, this is awesome. Far more info than I could get out of either Phillips or the A/V repair center in Oakland (who said it could be a lot of things and therefore wouldn't even speculate unless I pay them the diagnostic fee and give the TV to them to tinker with for a couple days.)


Can you clarify? Does it mean something simple like the power cord needs to be replaced, or am I looking at replacing some major power supply parts inside the television?

Lastly, you said "TV stays off". This isn't entirely accurate...the TV attempts to power on (I can hear it click and power up), but there's no screen, and ever so brief of a blip of audio before it clicks off, loses the green LED, and replaces it with the seven-flashing red lights. I'm sure we're on the same page with that part, but just thought I'd make sure.


Is the service manual something I can get online anywhere? The user manual doesn't mention the flashing codes.


Thank you very much; this is the first breath of useful information all night!

Dan

"Stays off" in that it will shut off. What you are seeing and hearing is probably the protective circuit resetting the TV.

As for what could be the cause, I can't help you there. All I know based on the service manual I downloaded is what the code means. If you ask me why I have the manual, it's because being an RF engineer, I would probably try to fix my display if it ever broke (especially as it's out of warranty). Having such a manual with all of its "techno-babble" is very much "techno-porn" for an engineer ;-)

As for its usefulness, unless you are at ease with technical manuals and schematics, it will be pretty useless. Repairing this set is not recommended unless you know what you are doing. As for the manual, try searching this group.

My Philips HDTV is 2 years old, maybe 2 and a few months at most. It's worked fine until yesterday. Now, it begins to power up, does not show anything on the screen, I get a blip or two of audio, and then I hear the click as it powers off. Once it does that, the green LED goes red, and blinks in patterns of 7 rapid red blinks, followed by a few seconds of no blinking, and then repeats.
...

One thing you can try, which may not help, but should not hurt, is to do a complete power down.

With the TV off, unplug the power cord from the outlet for several minutes. Then plug the cord back in, and try to turn the set on.

Normally, modern TVs, don't competely turn off. They go into a very low power standby mode. Sometimes, something like a very brief power outage or voltage drop can get them into a latched up state that a complete power cycle can clear.

If it was mine, I would certainly give it a try before doing anything drastic.

dtrimble,
I'd follow Kenavs advice and try unplugging the set. Sometimes the microprocessor can incorrectly read voltage levels and go into protection by mistake.

Also, it probably won't help to upgrade the firmware, but you shouldn't need an active screen to do that. If you can't get the screen on by unplugging the set for 10 minutes, just load the autorun.upg file to a usb drive, insert it into the TV, and then power on the TV. It should immediately pull from the USB drive, unless there really is something wrong with the Power supple.

Help!
I have a Phillips 42pf7321d 37 that won't power up!
If I reset it multiple times...By unplugging it...plugging it back in (while loosing my sanity) it sometimes will power up and work fine for hours! Nothing beats leaving the TV on while no ones watching it just to watch a show later on in the evening...
Can anyone Help? Do I need a new power supply? I called Philips and got the run around being out of warranty...Even though this has been an ongoing problem since I bought the TV...just not this extreme...

I hope someone has an answer...?
Thanks!

Mine that I bought in November of 2005 died a couple of weeks ago. I have the repeating seven red flashes, and that's it -- no picture at all. From what I gather, it's a complete loss. Shame.

I've had the cursed 7 blinking lights for about 3 weeks now. To view tv I have to power up, listen for relay click, wait a few seconds and hope NOT to hear another set, if I do then I know the blinking lights are coming - 7 to be exact, which according to some of my research means power supply. This is based upon coded information from the 'tech/repair' paperwork that I guess only 'trained' repair people have as contact with Philips can not yield the code equivalency - I guess they kill the trainers after 'certifying' the service people to avoid any understanding of the product they produce. Anyway, enough nonsense; following the red blinking I'll unplug wait about 10 seconds and plug in again - one set of clicks...........second set = unplug. Eventually, I'm getting a picture to fire up (avoiding the second set of clicks). I'm at the point of having to do this about 5 to 10 times now. I've heard tell of capacitor issues producing the same problem - I've yet to open the tv and take a look for bulging caps..........I'm hoping to get more action out of Philips (though I don't expect it) I've already contacted them at a very high level with hopes of getting somewhere..........nowhere to date though!

I had the same problem with my philips 42pf7321d/37 until i changed two capacitors on the power supply board at locations C8059 and C8060.Remove the rear cover,take a look at the board in the middle and see if any of the capacitors that are swollen or rounded at top.If so,it or they should be replaced by the exact voltage and capacitance.The two i replaced was 10v 3300uf and I removed them from a old computers motherboard.It's been working for about 2 months with no issues.

Hopefully this helps

Hi,I really could use some help on this situation..I purchased a 42" phillips plasma about 10 months ago 42pfp5332d/37..Amonth ago I noticed a little black line across the display, I phone phillips and they said that I would have to take it in to be repaired but since I live so far out of a major city that it would not hurt the television to continue watching it..Now there are 6 thin black horizontal lines:mad: and a service tech said that I might as well throw the tv away and buy a new one because it will cost so much to repair!!!!! Spending over 1200 dollars on a tv to watch it for 10 months is ridiculous..If there is someone with any advice I could sure use some..Thanks

Hi,I really could use some help on this situation..I purchased a 42" phillips plasma about 10 months ago 42pfp5332d/37..Amonth ago I noticed a little black line across the display, I phone phillips and they said that I would have to take it in to be repaired but since I live so far out of a major city that it would not hurt the television to continue watching it..Now there are 6 thin black horizontal lines:mad: and a service tech said that I might as well throw the tv away and buy a new one because it will cost so much to repair!!!!! Spending over 1200 dollars on a tv to watch it for 10 months is ridiculous..If there is someone with any advice I could sure use some..Thanks

1. Philips offers in home service - just how far are you away from any kind of repair facility?
2. Even if you have to drive somewhere (or ship it to a facility) it would be a lot less than $1200.
3. Philips replaced my original set with this one after 11 months and gave me another whole year warranty, and my problem was actually just a minor software glitch that didn't affect the picture, just a menu quirk that 99% of users would never notic.
4. If you used a Mastercard, Visa or Amex to purchase it, they extend your warranty for an extra year.
5. I'd throw your "service tech" away, and probably not ask him for any financial advice either.

I live in canada, and when I had phoned phillips they said that I would have to ship it to Florida lol I really am not going to do that..So they gave me a service tech in the nearest city which is 45 minutes away, but he said that the tv was made in november of 2007, which is sooo not cool that I never noticed that before...and he doesn't think that warranty will cover it.. The service tech said something about a tube??? do plasmas have tubes??? I may just sell it as a repair job,and try for an lcd

I live in canada, and when I had phoned phillips they said that I would have to ship it to Florida lol I really am not going to do that..So they gave me a service tech in the nearest city which is 45 minutes away, but he said that the tv was made in november of 2007, which is sooo not cool that I never noticed that before...and he doesn't think that warranty will cover it.. The service tech said something about a tube??? do plasmas have tubes??? I may just sell it as a repair job,and try for an lcd

I told you what to do with the tech.
That said, just call Philips back (I found their support to be excellent and they go out of their way to help). A 45 min ride should not be a big issue, and if he's right, they'll replace your set. Your warranty is from the "Date of Purchase" not date of manufacture. If you have a receipt, then you have no problem. If you don't have a receipt, consider this an expensive lesson why you should have one.

In all honesty, you're making this much more difficult than it should be. Also, you haven't mentioned where you purchased it and what the seller has to say about it.

I just got the red blinking light as well (7 flashes). This TV was a heavily discounted floor model, so I opted for the extended warranty (which I am now thankful for). It has been working well for almost two years until last weekend. The tech just left the house and said it was probably the power supply board. He ordered the part and will be back to install it in one week :(. We are all assuming this is the problem, otherwise it is back to square one.

Best of luck with that; some of the horror stories I've heard are that the board is 'discontinued' and if available it is 'rare' - I hope you do well. If possible could you let me know how much you had to spend on the board???
Thanks

I will update with info as I find out. My extended warranty will replace the TV with a "comparable model" if all the repairs fail, or can't be made. I am not sure how people make out in those sort of warranty replacements, but I guess it's better than no TV at all.

I had the same problem with my philips 42pf7321d/37 until i changed two capacitors on the power supply board at locations C8059 and C8060.Remove the rear cover,take a look at the board in the middle and see if any of the capacitors that are swollen or rounded at top.If so,it or they should be replaced by the exact voltage and capacitance.The two i replaced was 10v 3300uf and I removed them from a old computers motherboard.It's been working for about 2 months with no issues.

Hopefully this helps

Thanks for the info and the pic. I may try this myself, as there's really nothing to lose.

If you don't mind more questions....

Did you just look for ones that appeared to be damaged?

Are these pretty readily available (e.g. Radio Shack)?

How is getting that board out? Is it pretty easy to remove from the TV?

I finally broke down and ordered a replacement (Sony 52" LCD) for my almost 3 year old Phillips 42". I bought it as a refurb with free shipping. I wish it had lasted longer. :mad:

My Phillips has two black lines running down the left side of the screen. They take up about 3-4" of the screen. I've had them for about 6 months, and they have not gotten worse. To be honest with you, I hardly notice them now.

Also, within the past couple of weeks, the bottom half of the screen has been turning black for a few seconds at a time. Then it fixes itself.

Any suggestions what to do with this old TV? Anyone interested in it for parts?

Thanks for the info and the pic. I may try this myself, as there's really nothing to lose.

If you don't mind more questions....

Did you just look for ones that appeared to be damaged?

Are these pretty readily available (e.g. Radio Shack)?

How is getting that board out? Is it pretty easy to remove from the TV?

1.Yes, I was just looking for any that didn't look normal.

2.Radio Shack was my next option if I didn't find the correct size on the motherboard.

3.I didn't have a problem removing the board. The board has like 8 screws and I think it was 7 connectors plugged into it, just remember to mark the cables before unplugging.

Thanks, shooterz.

Well, I took out the million screws holding on the back panel and gained access. My board looks like this:

http://www.avforums.com/forums/attachments/plasma-televisions/104392d1231802008-philips-plasma-repair-advice-thread-backopen.jpg

and I was disappointed to not see any obvious blown caps. After examining everything from every angle for about 20 minutes, I *guess* a couple of the four larger caps running from top to bottom on the left side -- specifically the two at the bottom -- look a tiny bit different from the others. They say 47uf 350v, and appear to be 8020 and 8084. But the difference is very subtle... Maybe I'm just an amateur, but I hope I'm not seeing things that aren't there.

By the way, I saw Flashfox's post below. I have the seven blink code. Does this mean my power supply itself is bad and it's not the caps?

Sorry for the amateurish questions. I think I've looked at so many forums and posts on this, my head is swimming a little. :o

I had the four blinking error code,but take a look at this picture to see the difference.Also make sure you install the negative side of the capacitor to the negative side of the board and positive to positive.

After reading a million negative things online about Sears honoring their extended warranties, I am happy to report that they honored mine perfectly. The power supply board was replaced and that seems to have fixed all the problems. The tech came to the house to diagnose the problem, ordered the part and set up an appointment one week later. When he replaced the board he said that it seemed different than the original. Perhaps they made changes after so many broke down (probably wishful thinking). Sorry tmdelisle, I am not sure how much the board cost. They shipped it directly to my house without any price indicated on the shipping materials.

I did what you said Shooterz on my sons 42" plasma tv made by Phillips model #pf7321d/37 and now it works. Both caps. looked rounded on top. He dealt with the problem for over a month. I'm so glad I found this forum and your post. I bought 2 caps. online at hobbyengineering.com. Thanks again I know we saved a ton of money by doing it ourselves.

Just turned on my 42pf7220 and discovered a bunch of horizontal red lines on the bottom half of the screen. Anyone know what is up with that?
Anybody come up with a solution / diagnosis for the "red lines" problem? My 4yr old 50PF9830 started this problem last week in the middle of a film and it is not curing itself. Present even when no source is connected. Even after a full power-down. Firmware is current. I'm baffled, and not in the market for a new unit right now.

Does anyone know what type of HDMI is supported by this model? Is it the 19 pin type A or 29 pin type B?

Thanks

Does anywhere know where I can find old firmware for this model?

I just updated the firmware to the latest version BX23U-1.5.0.0_03531 which dates from late 06' and a couple hours later started getting the apparently dreaded red lines at the top of the screen.

Any links to old firmware would be greatly appreciated.

Does anywhere know where I can find old firmware for this model?

I just updated the firmware to the latest version BX23U-1.5.0.0_03531 which dates from late 06' and a couple hours later started getting the apparently dreaded red lines at the top of the screen.

Any links to old firmware would be greatly appreciated.

The following web page was set up by someone who used to be a very active participant in this forum. Hopefully nothing has corrupted the files he posted.
http://www.freewebtown.com/sgr215/
As noted on the page, Use at your own risk

The following web page was set up by someone who used to be a very active participant in this forum. Hopefully nothing has corrupted the files he posted.

As noted on the page, Use at your own risk

Thanks a bunch for the link.

Unfortunately it seems it's now beyond repair and going on to the stage of going all black about half the time.

I appear to be in the same boat as Chocolab......
wondering if capacitors 8020 and 8084 did anything.....

thanks,

Hey all,
My philips was replace once with the BS issue, and recently developed a black stripe about 3 inches wide in the middle of the left side of the screen. My TV was still under warranty and I watched the technician replace the vertical buffer board ("F") on my TV and this did not fix the problem. They decided to replace my TV rather than try to repair it again. My repairman was not too familiar with the TV and I was wondering if there might be something else I can try (since they didn't collect the old TV).

Thanks,
Adam
hi adamkaz,

Read this thread it may help. The suggestion the second page near the bottom seem the most interesting

hi adamkaz,

Read this thread it may help. The suggestion the second page near the bottom seem the most interesting
sorry forgot the linl

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1008936

I appear to be in the same boat as Chocolab......
wondering if capacitors 8020 and 8084 did anything.....

thanks,

Sorry, I just now saw this...

To be honest, I haven't done anything with mine... I've just been watching an old TV all this time. I was seriously thinking about just getting a new 42" plasma with some of the deals out there right now for only $600 or so.

I know I should order the caps and try it, but I just have a bad feeling the caps I'm seeing aren't the cause of the problem and it will just be a waste of time and money.

========================

Well, before I hit the submit button on this post, I ordered the caps from Digi-Key. Cost was only around $12, so if it doesn't work, I'm not out much. But honestly, I'm not very hopeful.

I too, was a victim. The Philips Outlet got me for two refurbed plasmas (a 42pf7320 and a 50PF7220) which both died after the warranty period. The 42 gave the dreaded 7 blinks a week or two after the 90 day warranty. The 50 lasted a couple of years but died altogether a few months ago.

Some recent activity in this forum regarding checking and replacing the capacitors gave me a glimmer of hope that my dead plasmas maybe could live again so I was inclined to gave that a try. But alas, when I removed the back covers to both I saw no sign of bulging on any of the capcitors from either TV which I've read is indicative of a failure. (The two TV's appear to have identical innards.)

But I kept searching the internet and came across a story by a TV repair dude who indicated that he'd fixed a dead Philips plasma by replacing a fuse on the power supply board. I decided to give that a try since there only appeared to be two fuses of that type on the board. In short, I removed a tiny fuse from my 42" with a pocket knife and inserted it into the same socket on the completely dead 50" and the 50" now lives again!

I've orderd a Power Supply Board (LJ44-00101B) for the 42" off of ebay for $100 and will see if that gets it working again.

I had the same problem with my philips 42pf7321d/37 until i changed two capacitors on the power supply board at locations C8059 and C8060.Remove the rear cover,take a look at the board in the middle and see if any of the capacitors that are swollen or rounded at top.If so,it or they should be replaced by the exact voltage and capacitance.The two i replaced was 10v 3300uf and I removed them from a old computers motherboard.It's been working for about 2 months with no issues.

Hopefully this helps

Currently having the same issue. Opened up the back and found the two caps with the bulges. My PS board looks different, but the caps are at the same locations C8059 and C8060, so I'd guess one of us has an older version. I'm heading to radio shack to try and find the part, then buy somewhere online if I can't get it there.

Also, before I got to the blinking red, I was getting the slow power up and increasingly more frequent error codes of multiple flashes (6 and then 4 i think) before it finally completely failed to power up.

i have a similar problem but mine has lots of line going from left to right in diffrent colors mainly red at the top there is about a 6 inch gap that is perfect but the rest of the screen has this problem with the lines you can still see the picture but its just like bad with all the lines in the way im not sure what to do as i have no warrenty left on this now any idea what it could be or how to get rid of it is it fixable by myself ?any advice would be great thanks it is only 18 month old.

I own Phillips plasma tv that developed black strips (thin 2 mil.) that go completly across the screen horizontaly and the picture is very grainy and little red dots, pixels. Also there is a weird sound like a high volltage sound on the back when the tv is on or off. I tried every advice that I have read in this excellent forum but I couldn't repair it. (press the Y buffer cards, move the V-Scan and others, secure all connections, etc..)
I am going to buy the Y-buffer and the Main card but I don't know with which one I can start.
Anybody has an idea? I think that the problem is the power supply board.... but I am not sure...

Thanks,
:confused:

If I had to go with the "shotgun" approach I'd lean toward the power supply I've had a couple computer monitors exhibit odd behavior & I replaced the power supplies & all was well. :-)

Thank you ALRUI. Sometimes the "shotgun" approach works.
I will go for the power supply board first.

Very true:-) Please let us know how it works out for you along with your source of parts & cost. I think it would be valuable information for all.

Thanks

For those who have been experiencing the, all too common, intermittent half black screen, you might want to visit the "Philips Plasma TV - Half Black Screen" forum.

Over the last several months, beginning with the post at: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=15057295#post15057295
on 11-12-2008, several participants, incuding yours truly, have reported no cost service attempts that seem to have been successful for them.

Hello all!

Seems like I might be late to the party, but perhaps the right person(s) might still be checking back to this thread? Sure hope so!

I just got through liberating a 42PF7320A that was kicked to the curb yesterday, hoping for a minor power supply problem or the like. Turns out I got my wish: after working fine for a few hours, it started doing the dreaded "seven blinks" and refusing to stay on. I understand that this means the 8V6 section of the power supply isn't putting out as much voltage as it ought to. I'm no EE, but I have replaced a few caps in my day... so I pulled off the back panel and started looking for clues.

To my surprise, there were no bulging capacitors or other obvious signs of damage. Since I don't have any service docs, I'm not sure how would be best to proceed. Any ideas?

Also, I did a bit of looking on ebay, and noticed that there are several people selling the revision "B" and "C" power supplies (mine's an "A" - an "LJ44-00101A", to be exact). Does anyone know what kind of luck I'd have swapping a newer power supply into this unit?

Hello all!

Seems like I might be late to the party, but perhaps the right person(s) might still be checking back to this thread? Sure hope so!

I just got through liberating a 42PF7320A that was kicked to the curb yesterday, hoping for a minor power supply problem or the like. Turns out I got my wish: after working fine for a few hours, it started doing the dreaded "seven blinks" and refusing to stay on. I understand that this means the 8V6 section of the power supply isn't putting out as much voltage as it ought to. I'm no EE, but I have replaced a few caps in my day... so I pulled off the back panel and started looking for clues.

To my surprise, there were no bulging capacitors or other obvious signs of damage. Since I don't have any service docs, I'm not sure how would be best to proceed. Any ideas?

Also, I did a bit of looking on ebay, and noticed that there are several people selling the revision "B" and "C" power supplies (mine's an "A" - an "LJ44-00101A", to be exact). Does anyone know what kind of luck I'd have swapping a newer power supply into this unit?

ok my tv shut down on me mine did not power at all so i try to change the fuse but i did not find the same 8amp 250v so i put 6.5amp 250v but when i plug it in the tv turn on but i notice smoke coming out of two long white squares about 2 inch long by 1/2/ by 1/4 next to the fuse. and now i have the seven blink red light. hope this help you . i we not mess around with it any more i will take it to get repaired and ask the tech what the problem was and post in a few days.

Hi folks.

This isn't covered in the manual, and Philips support is useless, so hopefully somebody here can help me...

In a nutshell - does the digital audio out from the TV get down-converted to stereo when the source is one of the HDMI inputs?

An example - I'm playing a movie from my DVD player, and the soundtrack is 5.1. The DVD player is connected to the TV via HDMI. I then want to send the audio to an A/V receiver. If I run a cable fro the TV's digital audio out to the A/V receiver, does the receiver see stereo, or 5.1?

Thanks!

Hi folks.

This isn't covered in the manual, and Philips support is useless, so hopefully somebody here can help me...

In a nutshell - does the digital audio out from the TV get down-converted to stereo when the source is one of the HDMI inputs?

An example - I'm playing a movie from my DVD player, and the soundtrack is 5.1. The DVD player is connected to the TV via HDMI. I then want to send the audio to an A/V receiver. If I run a cable fro the TV's digital audio out to the A/V receiver, does the receiver see stereo, or 5.1?

Thanks!

I believe that digital output is not actual 5.1, I saw it referred to either in the manual or in the TV menu as "virtual 5.1". I'd run the audio out from the DVD player to your receiver & select your audio source as the DVD on the receiver thats how I have mine set-up & it sounds great, I do have the audio out from the TV going to an input on the receiver if I want to listen to the TV that way but I really never do just for S's & G's I'll have to see what the receiver shows that signal as. Hope this helps:-)

I believe that digital output is not actual 5.1, I saw it referred to either in the manual or in the TV menu as "virtual 5.1". I'd run the audio out from the DVD player to your receiver & select your audio source as the DVD on the receiver thats how I have mine set-up & it sounds great, I do have the audio out from the TV going to an input on the receiver if I want to listen to the TV that way but I really never do just for S's & G's I'll have to see what the receiver shows that signal as. Hope this helps:-)

Thanks. I'd be really interested in knowing what kind of signal your receiver gets from the tv in that situation, if it's not too much trouble.

Thanks. I'd be really interested in knowing what kind of signal your receiver gets from the tv in that situation, if it's not too much trouble.

Hi feh - Hope this helps, it appears when I put the receiver (Pioneer VSX-1015TX) in "auto surround" mode it provides stereo output (2.1) from the TV, if I override auto mode & put it in "advanced surround" I get sound from all speakers (5.1). It appears to me that the signal from the TV is not true 5.1 BUT the caveat is my TV signal is from our small town (very) cable co. and its analog cable, I seriously doubt they broadcast anything in surround & if I call to ask them I'll either get a BS answer or the wrong answer. Perhaps someone else can perform the same test so we can come to a solid conclusion?

Hi feh - Hope this helps, it appears when I put the receiver (Pioneer VSX-1015TX) in "auto surround" mode it provides stereo output (2.1) from the TV, if I override auto mode & put it in "advanced surround" I get sound from all speakers (5.1). It appears to me that the signal from the TV is not true 5.1 BUT the caveat is my TV signal is from our small town (very) cable co. and its analog cable, I seriously doubt they broadcast anything in surround & if I call to ask them I'll either get a BS answer or the wrong answer. Perhaps someone else can perform the same test so we can come to a solid conclusion?

Thanks for that info!

What happens if you play a DVD w/ 5.1 audio?

Thanks for that info!

What happens if you play a DVD w/ 5.1 audio?

No issues, it shows a digital signal & auto surround picks up that its a Dolby disc & it plays with full surround as it should (of course this is if the DVD is mastered in surround, etc.). I have my DVD player hooked up so the video goes the TV using component cables and the audio goes straight to the receiver using an optical cable bypassing the TV completely. My DVD player is lacking HDMI capability:-(

No issues, it shows a digital signal & auto surround picks up that its a Dolby disc & it plays with full surround as it should (of course this is if the DVD is mastered in surround, etc.). I have my DVD player hooked up so the video goes the TV using component cables and the audio goes straight to the receiver using an optical cable bypassing the TV completely. My DVD player is lacking HDMI capability:-(

I was hoping to find out what kind of audio the receiver saw if it got its audio from the TV digital audio out while you were playing a DVD, but it sounds like you're not set up to test that situation.

Thanks.

I was hoping to find out what kind of audio the receiver saw if it got its audio from the TV digital audio out while you were playing a DVD, but it sounds like you're not set up to test that situation.

Thanks.

No, but when listening to the TV through the receiver it shows the incoming signal as "digital". Is there any reason you dont want to hook the audio out from the DVD player straight to the receiver?

No, but when listening to the TV through the receiver it shows the incoming signal as "digital". Is there any reason you dont want to hook the audio out from the DVD player straight to the receiver?

I can certainly do that; it would just be a couple extra cables. It would be preferable to have the receiver get its audio from the same input, regardless of whether I'm watching TV, a DVD, or the PVR.

My TV gets its video/audio via HDMI for both the DVD and PVR situations. So, the digital audio is available to the TV; it's just a matter of whether it passes it on or down-converts it to stereo.

For those who have been experiencing the, all too common, intermittent half black screen, you might want to visit the "Philips Plasma TV - Half Black Screen" forum.

Kenavs,

I'm trying to remove the back cover on my 42PF7320A/37 and I cant figure out what to use to remove the 13 little gray screws around the bottom. Do you remember what you used to remove them?

Kenavs,

I'm trying to remove the back cover on my 42PF7320A/37 and I cant figure out what to use to remove the 13 little gray screws around the bottom. Do you remember what you used to remove them?

I am not sure exactly which "13 little gray screws around the bottom" you are referring to. All the screws I removed that held the back cover on where chrome finish and Torx T10. I believe there were 30 longer ones along the perimeter of the panel (9 along the top, 9 along the bottom, 6 along the left edge, and 6 along the right edge) I think there were another 17, which were slightly shorter, located in various places in the field of the panel, including the 2 that pointed up.

Did you read my post in the other forum?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17083910#post17083910

Update:
I just went back and saw your post in the other forum. I believe those may be rivets. I did not remove them to get the back off. Be sure to remove those (2) T10 screws that point up. They are in the vicinity of your picture. You have to look from the bottom of the panel to see them.

Red lines at the top of my screen, anyone figured out how to fix it, or is my TV toast? Man hate to spend money on a new TV now that I don't have a job, shucks......

my TV goes out after about 1/2 an hour then cycles back on and off every 5 minutes. since it runs good for 1/2 an hour i deduced a overheating problem. took off back cover and aimed household fan at the back, PROBLEM SOLVED. Cut a hole in back cover and mounted quiet computer style fan. everyone talks about P/S's on the forums, but this works for $10 !!!!!!!!!! Wish I knew which specific component is the problem, because I could mount a heatsink to it. Anyone have a infra red cam? lolol

my TV goes out after about 1/2 an hour then cycles back on and off every 5 minutes. since it runs good for 1/2 an hour i deduced a overheating problem. took off back cover and aimed household fan at the back, PROBLEM SOLVED. Cut a hole in back cover and mounted quiet computer style fan. everyone talks about P/S's on the forums, but this works for $10 !!!!!!!!!! Wish I knew which specific component is the problem, because I could mount a heatsink to it. Anyone have a infra red cam? lolol

When you have a thermal problem like that the best way to track it down is using a heat gun or some "freeze spray" or a combination of both.

I can certainly do that; it would just be a couple extra cables. It would be preferable to have the receiver get its audio from the same input, regardless of whether I'm watching TV, a DVD, or the PVR.

My TV gets its video/audio via HDMI for both the DVD and PVR situations. So, the digital audio is available to the TV; it's just a matter of whether it passes it on or down-converts it to stereo.

I've confirmed that the TV does pass through 5.1 audio, when using the HDMI inputs.

I actually have a 37" TV, but I'm sure the 42" behaves the same way.

Wow - fantastic forum. Let me jump in and add to the power-supply issues and one more possible solution. I just acquired a used 42PF7320A/37 with 6 blinking red lights on power-on. After diagnosing the pwr-supply board, all CAPs look good from top but most had poor solder joints. It was very obvious on C8059 and C8060 (as mentioned previously as CAPs which tend to fail).

Remove the pwr-supply board and look closely at the solder contacts on the back. If you see a ring around the joint, cracking, etc then you have a 'cold solder joint'. Hit those with your soldering iron and some fresh solder. That fixed my issue right up.
All the best, Drew.

I am getting red digital "static" all over my screen (even over the menus). When the screen is black (e.g. between commercials), all is well, but the second anything comes on the screen, I get tons of vertical and horizontal static wherever there is something on the screen. For instance, if there is just the channel logo, it will have static that makes a "plus" sign with the height and width of the logo, mostly red. Now when there is a normal picture, that means there is static almost everywhere, but it seems to concentrate in horizontal lines. I'm guessing it is the Y-buffer main. So what should I do? It seems unwise to repair it when I've read folks are getting the problem again after a little while. I'm definitely getting a new TV, but should I try to repair this one myself for another room or just sell it for parts? And if I sell it, what are folks doing there? Is there a common company for selling broken plasmas to, or should I ebay it or maybe even craigslist it? I'm somewhat comfortable with electronics, but I've read that they don't recommend an average consumer try to mess with plasma parts due to the high voltage (not sure why that matters if it's unplugged, but whatever). So, to number my questions:
1. Does it sound like my y-buffer main? It covers the whole screen.
2. Try to fix myself or just sell as-is?
3. Where/how to sell broken plasmas?

Thanks so much everyone, I'm sure most of this has been covered elsewhere, but I always have a dickens of a time finding basic answers like this.

I am getting the exact same issue. It just started out of the blue 2 days ago. Previously, I had the bottom half of the screen go black, but that has somehow been resolved when I couldn't find the remote and accidentally tapped near the power button (wasn't looking), which corrected that problem. Who knows though, maybe the horizontal red lines of static is the next progression in the half black screen problem.

I took the back panel off just to see if there was anything unusual, but I did not see anything. On the left side there are a series of 6 ribbon cables that control the display. On my screen the bottom 1/6th of the screen looks great, but the remaining 5 "sections" contain the horizontal red snow. I unplugged each of the cables (removing that band of the picture) and plugging it back in did no good. I am thinking that it is one of those boards which look to me like they are modular, so replacing one or more may correct the problem.

Does anyone have any experience with this (repairing, etc)?

thanks in advance for any info...

I got that Phillips 42pf7320a that recently startet showing a kind of redish and white snow in form of lines horizontal from one side to the other. Strange that in the middle section there is one horizontal band of about 3 to 4 inches that shows none of those signs.
What is the origin of that display error? Can it be fixed easily or is it expensiv?
Any helpful answers are appreciated. Thanks

Hey guys I had the Blinking red LED problem with the 42" philips. I first saw that there were capacitors blown and I tried soldering them myself, but the TV still did the same thing.

After it sat on my table for 2 months I had given up. I was going to put the parts on ebay as non working for someone to fix. Anyway I removed the two cards that are directly below the Power supply board. I dont know what they are called. I think the one that came out of the case with all the inputs is the video card, and then the card to the right of that (smaller) i have no idea what that is..

anyway... After I took all this a part I decided to take one more shot at it and I bought a Power supply board off of ebay.

I tried to put everything back together as best as I could. I think I have it all right for the most part, and then I fired it up.

Well I have power, I have a steady green light, I have audio.. but no picture. You can see the screen get a little bit brighter than black, but nothing else. If i shut it off and turn it back on. I get a verything green line at the top of the screen.

Can anyone please help me with this. Did I hook somethng back together wrong?

Please help! Thank you

Hey guys I had the Blinking red LED problem with the 42" philips. I first saw that there were capacitors blown and I tried soldering them myself, but the TV still did the same thing.

After it sat on my table for 2 months I had given up. I was going to put the parts on ebay as non working for someone to fix. Anyway I removed the two cards that are directly below the Power supply board. I dont know what they are called. I think the one that came out of the case with all the inputs is the video card, and then the card to the right of that (smaller) i have no idea what that is..

anyway... After I took all this a part I decided to take one more shot at it and I bought a Power supply board off of ebay.

I tried to put everything back together as best as I could. I think I have it all right for the most part, and then I fired it up.

Well I have power, I have a steady green light, I have audio.. but no picture. You can see the screen get a little bit brighter than black, but nothing else. If i shut it off and turn it back on. I get a verything green line at the top of the screen.

Can anyone please help me with this. Did I hook somethng back together wrong?

Please help! Thank you

Go back & take it apart then put it back together double checking all of your connections, you say you re-soldered the caps - are they oriented properly on the board with good solder joints & are they the correct replacements? Just a tip for next time, if you're going to take apart something with a lot of connections & you may not remember how to get it back together then make a sketch/take notes & or take a picture as an aid. I've done that & in a couple of cases it was a lifesaver:-)

Ok.. My 42pf7320a/37 is flashing 1 slow red then 4 rapid red and repeating... any idea on what this is? I have seached for 4 blinks and not seen much.

I am looking for a stand for philips model 42PF732OA/37. Anyone who has a broken one and wants to sell the stand, please contact me. Thanks.

Max

Ok.. My 42pf7320a/37 is flashing 1 slow red then 4 rapid red and repeating... any idea on what this is? I have seached for 4 blinks and not seen much.
I don't know what the error code means, but I believe the slow blinks are the tens digit of the error code and the rapid blinks are the units digit. If that is correct, the error code you are getting is 14.

Currently having the same issue. Opened up the back and found the two caps with the bulges. My PS board looks different, but the caps are at the same locations C8059 and C8060, so I'd guess one of us has an older version. I'm heading to radio shack to try and find the part, then buy somewhere online if I can't get it there.

Also, before I got to the blinking red, I was getting the slow power up and increasingly more frequent error codes of multiple flashes (6 and then 4 i think) before it finally completely failed to power up.

How did you determine the identities of the bad capacitors? Is the circuit board labeled with C8059 and C8060 (i.e., is the board stamped with those labels...and are the labels on the top side or the bottom side of the board?). Thanks.

Wow - fantastic forum. Let me jump in and add to the power-supply issues and one more possible solution. I just acquired a used 42PF7320A/37 with 6 blinking red lights on power-on. After diagnosing the pwr-supply board, all CAPs look good from top but most had poor solder joints. It was very obvious on C8059 and C8060 (as mentioned previously as CAPs which tend to fail).

Remove the pwr-supply board and look closely at the solder contacts on the back. If you see a ring around the joint, cracking, etc then you have a 'cold solder joint'. Hit those with your soldering iron and some fresh solder. That fixed my issue right up.
All the best, Drew.

How did you determine the identities of the bad capacitors? Is the circuit board labeled with C8059 and C8060 (i.e., is the board stamped with those labels...and are the labels on the top side or the bottom side of the board?). Thanks.

I have a 42PF7320A/37 When I first plug it in Green light comes on and then the red light starts flashing 7 times. So I thought it was the power Suppy (LJ44-00101B PS-424-PH) and started looking at all the caps. They all look great. So after that I decided to do a little testing I disconneted the jumpers to the X, Y and buffers. I then repluged the unit in and I got green lite and it stayed green. I unplugged (Power) the Unit and statred to replug the buffer X, Y one at a time when I repluged in the Y-main Board (LJ92-01200A) back in and repowered the unit it when back to flashing red lite 7 times because of this testing I suspect the Y-main Boad. Would that be a good assumption?

I have a 42PF7320A/37 When I first plug it in Green light comes on and then the red light starts flashing 7 times. So I thought it was the power Suppy (LJ44-00101B PS-424-PH) and started looking at all the caps. They all look great. So after that I decided to do a little testing I disconneted the jumpers to the X, Y and buffers. I then repluged the unit in and I got green lite and it stayed green. I unplugged (Power) the Unit and statred to replug the buffer X, Y one at a time when I repluged in the Y-main Board (LJ92-01200A) back in and repowered the unit it when back to flashing red lite 7 times because of this testing I suspect the Y-main Boad. Would that be a good assumption?
Did you try the same procedure with the X-main board? if you did & it DIDNT blink red then I'd say your assumption is correct but if it DOES youre back to square one in my opinion. Also you could try to reverse - plug in the Y board then the X board. Let us know how it goes.

Did you try the same procedure with the X-main board? if you did & it DIDNT blink red then I'd say your assumption is correct but if it DOES youre back to square one in my opinion. Also you could try to reverse - plug in the Y board then the X board. Let us know how it goes.

Yes i did I can leave the X-board pluged in and no red light. I also checked the Voltages on the PSU Board and found them within Spec's as seen Below
except for the two(2) I couldn't find

Output voltage(V)------Voltage Setting (Normal Load)----Output Voltage Variable Point-----Test Results

Vs-------------------------208V-----------------------------190V -210V--------------------194V
Va--------------------------70V------------------------------50V -70V---------------------69.8V
Ve--------------------------90V------------------------------80V -105V--------------------85.9V
Vset-----------------------195V-----------------------------180V -205V---------------------195V
Vscan-------------------- -195V--------------------------- -170V --205V------------------ -188V
Vsb--------------------------5V-------------------------------Fixed----------------couldn't find test point
Vg--------------------------15V-------------------------------Fixed-----------------------15.15V
D5VL-----------------------5.2V-------------------------------Fixed---------------couldn't find test point
D3V3-----------------------3.3V-------------------------------Fixed-------------------------3.3V

If you think there is any other thing I can check before I buy a replacement board please let me know.

And thank you

If you think there is any other thing I can check before I buy a replacement board please let me know.

I'd say you did a thorough job! Buy the board then tell us about your success:-)

I changed out the LJ92-01200A Y- board with a Known good one and it still didn't help Also I happen to notice that now on the LJ44-00101B power board there looks like a sub board On layout it says ALARM SUB and one of the diods is lit on it. any sugestions?

I've had my 7320A/37A (Mexican-made Philips sold only in North America) for over a year and a half (bedroom wall-mounted on a Peerless tilt/telescope wall-mount) and it's still going strong. I don't have the "mileage" on mine as some of the folks that have frequented this thread (fewer than 1000 hours), but the PQ is still kicking butt and not even bothering to take names.

It's been almost three years since my last post in this thread - however, there's actually a good reason for it.

The TV is still working - in fact, I just installed a CableCARD (Comcast of Prince George's County, MD) in it yesterday.

The only problem I had with the CC is a mis-setup error - but on Comcast's end; not mine.

The ID (on the forum) changed is due to a change in my e-mail address (Comcast HSI) and them failing to allow forwarding. Thus I had to re-register here. (I was originally PGHammer here at AVS Forums.)

So I am glad to have found this thread on these forums. I am in dire need of help from you guys.

I had register to post in here to keep this thread alive and get me some good advice. When I plug the TV in or try to turn it on, it stays off/turns off and blinks red 6 times rapidly. From what I understand this may be some kind of 5v problem. I am not sure which test point I should be testing. I'll buy a new power board if I must, or desolder and replace what I must, in order to get this TV working again. Hopefully you guys can offer me some kind of advice or help to get her back up and running again.

>>Warning 22 MB Image<<
http://www.fileupyours.com/files/315064/samsungboard.jpg
If anyone has anything important to add to this, I can.



I also have a Philips service manual PDF I found. It covers this model number, so it could work. Problem is I know next to nothing about TVs. I am in school to be an Electrical Engineer though, so I'm no stranger to soldering irons, diagrams, and DMM operations. I am still a stranger to TVs though. It's 30 MB so I can't edit it here, but if you want to check it out I MIGHT be able to email it. Drop me a PM and I can send it to you. It covers a wide range of models, but the one I'm interested is the 42PF7320A of course.

I was asked to fix a Philips 42PF730A/37 that is not powering up. It momentarily has a green light and then starts a red seven blink sequence.

I pulled the back and there are no obvious blown caps on the power board.

When I apply power there are two green LED’s on the power board that come on for a few seconds and then they go out. After they go out, an eleven blink sequence starts on a daughter board on the power board.

Can anyone interpret the eleven blink sequence?

Can anyone point me to a good picture of the suspect cap location?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

I was asked to fix a Philips 42PF730A/37 that is not powering up. It momentarily has a green light and then starts a red seven blink sequence. I pulled the back and there are no obvious blown caps on the power board.When I apply power there are two green LED’s on the power board that come on for a few seconds and then they go out. After they go out, an eleven blink sequence starts on a daughter board on the power board.Can nyone interpret the eleven blink sequence?Can anyone point me to a good picture of the suspect cap location?Any other suggestions?Thanks!

If it's giving you the 7-Blinking RED LED problem, then it's got to be the same or similar capacitors diagnosed in Thread Pages 28-37 of the main Philips 9631 User Thread. :mad:

The 'blown' caps would be very tough to tell unless you look closely -- they may also not exhibit problems. Check out the pictures on the 9631 thread and if you can identify the SAME numbered or similarly-positioned capacitors on your model, I would order replacements from Digikey. :)

Did you type the model number correctly -- 730A ??? :confused: Totally unfamiliar with that designation. :confused::confused:

See if you can get the TV turned on using PLUG-UNPLUG (see the 9631 Thread for instructions on how to do this).

I was asked to fix a Philips 42PF730A/37 that is not powering up. It momentarily has a green light and then starts a red seven blink sequence.

I pulled the back and there are no obvious blown caps on the power board.

When I apply power there are two green LED’s on the power board that come on for a few seconds and then they go out. After they go out, an eleven blink sequence starts on a daughter board on the power board.

Can anyone interpret the eleven blink sequence?

Can anyone point me to a good picture of the suspect cap location?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

The picture I posted up there is a picture of the board with a lot of zoomed in parts. Someone may be able to point out which caps you need to replace.

Thanks I just ordered the Philips 42" Plasma(42PF7320A).. Does anyone have any information on this regarding whether its good or not. Did not see any reviews, but I got a good price on it and it had a nice looking display at the store.

Thanks,
Jeff

Thanks for the responce - I will replace the caps, but I sort of suspect that there is some other problem - there is evidence that someone has worked on the TV before.

I miss typed the model number in my post above.

Thanks.

I had register to post in here to keep this thread alive and get me some good advice. When I plug the TV in or try to turn it on, it stays off/turns off and blinks red 6 times rapidly. From what I understand this may be some kind of 5v problem. I am not sure which test point I should be testing. I'll buy a new power board if I must, or desolder and replace what I must, in order to get this TV working again. Hopefully you guys can offer me some kind of advice or help to get her back up and running again.

Rjhall, I would goto the 9631 Thread and see what the fix was for the 6-LED problem there. It might be similar.

How old is the TV ? At this point, considering the TV is probably either from 2003 or 2004, might just pay to get a new one.

Rjhall, I would goto the 9631 Thread and see what the fix was for the 6-LED problem there. It might be similar.

How old is the TV ? At this point, considering the TV is probably either from 2003 or 2004, might just pay to get a new one.

I got the TV for free, and if I can fix it for a hundred bucks, it's still way cheaper than a new 42" of any kind. But yeah, in that thread apparently after people fixed the caps they still got 7 blinks. Maybe replacing the power board will fix it, in the same way it fixed theirs?

I got the TV for free, and if I can fix it for a hundred bucks, it's still way cheaper than a new 42" of any kind. But yeah, in that thread apparently after people fixed the caps they still got 7 blinks. Maybe replacing the power board will fix it, in the same way it fixed theirs?

Tough to get a new one...and the previous problem with the Power Boards was mostly blown capacitors so buying a new PB doesn't make sense.

Check the fuses posts in the 9631 Thread and make sure you didn't disturb anything while replacing the relevant capacitors.

I have a 42PF7320A which has just recently begun 6 slow red blinks then 3 quick red blinks. I see may posts stating this problem, but found none so far with a fix. Any ideas?

I was asked to fix a Philips 42PF7320A/37 that is not powering up. It momentarily has a green light and then starts a red seven blink sequence.

I pulled the back and there are no obvious blown caps on the power board.

When I apply power there are two green LED’s on the power board that come on for a few seconds and then they go out. After they go out, an eleven blink sequence starts on a daughter board on the power board.

Can anyone interpret the eleven blink sequence?

Thanks!

I replaced the C8059 & C8060 caps. The same problem exists. I found the 8.6V test point & it comes up to spec before the monitor kicks in. I did not check every voltage, but all the ones I checked i.e. 12V, 5.2V, 8.6V, etc all seem to be OK. Next I unplugged all of the boards collectively and one at a time.

What I found was that one of the connectors to the tuner board seems to cause the problem. Looking at the back of the TV, the connector is the inboard one on the power board (which goes to the outboard connector on the Tuner board).

Anyone able to offer any suggestions on trouble shooting the tuner board problem?

Thanks!

Tough to get a new one...and the previous problem with the Power Boards was mostly blown capacitors so buying a new PB doesn't make sense.

Check the fuses posts in the 9631 Thread and make sure you didn't disturb anything while replacing the relevant capacitors.

I haven't replaced anything yet. I posted a large picture, but I'll attach some smaller ones.

The capacitors don't have a noticeable bulge. Without a capacitance tester, there's really no way to tell for certain if they're bad or not. I checked the power fuse with a DMM, it's not blown.

Any ideas?
http://i.imgur.com/qpLPp.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GIOBD.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/rGw9I.jpg

I replaced the C8059 & C8060 caps. The same problem exists. I found the 8.6V test point & it comes up to spec before the monitor kicks in. I did not check every voltage, but all the ones I checked i.e. 12V, 5.2V, 8.6V, etc all seem to be OK. Next I unplugged all of the boards collectively and one at a time.

What I found was that one of the connectors to the tuner board seems to cause the problem. Looking at the back of the TV, the connector is the inboard one on the power board (which goes to the outboard connector on the Tuner board).

Anyone able to offer any suggestions on trouble shooting the tuner board problem?

Thanks!

I replaced the tuner board which did not solve the problem. Still getting the dreaded 7 red blinks on the front and eleven blinks on the power supply monitor daughter board.

Pulling the one connector to the tuner board solves the blinking problem.

Anyone able to offer suggestions for solving this?

Thanks!!

I finally broke down and ordered a replacement (Sony 52" LCD) for my almost 3 year old Phillips 42". I bought it as a refurb with free shipping. I wish it had lasted longer. :mad:

My Phillips has two black lines running down the left side of the screen. They take up about 3-4" of the screen. I've had them for about 6 months, and they have not gotten worse. To be honest with you, I hardly notice them now.

Also, within the past couple of weeks, the bottom half of the screen has been turning black for a few seconds at a time. Then it fixes itself.

Any suggestions what to do with this old TV? Anyone interested in it for parts?

I have a single (somewhat broad) block stripe running slightly to the right of center - worse, I can't get a Motorola M-card (Comcast) to display any sort of pairing data. (The TV does indeed pick up the M-card; however, I always get error message 161-53. I also get a proper channel map; however, without being able to properly pair things up, the channel lineup is (mostly) useless.)

Both happened practically one after the other less than two months ago.

An RPTV (only models currently available with in-set support for CableCARD) is a non-starter (too large), so that means either a Tivo (the sticking point isn't the initial price, but the $20 extra for the service, when I'll be using it basically as an HD STB, as opposed to the other features) or returning the (free) CableCARD (Comcast does not charge for the first one) for an HD STB (yuck - I went with a FP that supports CC to avoid this).

I *did* get six years (bought the set as a new closeout in 2005) out of it, and prices for FPTVs (3D LED-LCD) have been halved for the same screen size class.

Not a knock on Philips - or even on this particular plasma; just reporting what's happening.