I just ordered the Philips 42" Plasma(42PF7320A).. Does anyone have any information on this regarding whether its good or not. Did not see any reviews, but I got a good price on it and it had a nice looking display at the store.

Thanks,
Jeff

Anyone have any reports on this television?

I was looking at the Panasonic TH-42PD50U EDTV at CC and came across the Phillips 42PF7320A.

I know the Panasonic has gotten rave reviews but haven't been able to find much on the Phillips. Considering the Phillips is an HDTV with 768P resolution and has a few more features........how does it stack up to the Panasonic EDTV??

Well I have had the Phillips for a little while now and I think its a great TV. The picture is just wonderful and the only complaint I have about it is that the speakers sound a little underpowered to me. But before you paint a real bad image in your head, I am very used to listening to my Sony 60" LCD which has an amazing sound system built into it (I even believe it has a small subwoofer sitting it in somewhere). So to me any tv i listen to sounds weak.. I would give it a try and you would be getting true HD with this set. I just watched Troy on it two days ago and it looked absolutely spectacular. I would recommend this set.

I would be interested to know how are the black levels.

Well I have had the Phillips for a little while now and I think its a great TV. The picture is just wonderful and the only complaint I have about it is that the speakers sound a little underpowered to me. But before you paint a real bad image in your head, I am very used to listening to my Sony 60" LCD which has an amazing sound system built into it (I even believe it has a small subwoofer sitting it in somewhere). So to me any tv i listen to sounds weak.. I would give it a try and you would be getting true HD with this set. I just watched Troy on it two days ago and it looked absolutely spectacular. I would recommend this set.


this is so odd, i just came across this tv yesterday when researching for a panny pd25 equivalent. can i ask what you compared this to before buying? also what kind of "deal" did you get? i have not seen it in person , so how did it look in the store versus other models you looked at? & what were they?

The first thing I will say before anything is, please go compare the TVs for yourself. What I like may be something that you absolutely hate. When I was buying this TV my wife and I set a budget. This was for our master bedroom and I was not going for the cream of the crop of TVs. I already have had the Sony 60" LCD for almost a year so I know what to expect when looking at HDTV and wasn't going to be WOWED by the beautiful picture since they all do look pretty darn good in HD. Another thing I would like to say is that the difference between this TV and the Panasonic is the difference is just users choice. I really couldn't see the difference between the two. Ok was the Panny's blacks a little blacker, sure, but not by some large difference.

I paid a little over $2500 at Circuit City for the TV which to me was great considering it was HDTV and not EDTV which was huge for me. Personally I have had very good success with Philips in the past which was a good thing to me. I was comparing it mostly to my Sony LCD and really like the deeper flesh tones it provided and the viewing angle was just great from everywhere you looked at it (to me one of the best features of Plasma). It had all the features I was looking for like HDMI, cablecard, etc. And the picture did look really good in the store and that was even compared to the $6000+ Pioneers.

Store appeareance only means so much to me, because it always looks different once you get it in your house under real lighting conditions and room size.

So for me, for the price, i feel I got a great TV and don't lose sleeping wondering if the Panny or any other one was really the better choice. So far there isn't anything that I feel is missing and I love the picture I get from it. I am sure I would be saying the same thing if i bought one of the other tvs as well.

Is there something special in a TV that you are looking for that your afraid that you might make the wrong decision?

In responsed to daniels1994 question. The black levels are much better than the Sony LCD that i have which i feel gives the place much more true to life color tones. Once again, for the price I paid, I think I got a good quality TV that may not be the best one out there, but can compete with alot of them

thanks jeff. i pretty much agree with about viewing differences & comparing for yourself. trust me i'm not taking anyones word as gospel & the way to go. i am merely asking for your perspective so that i can better understand the product itself.

that being said, thanks so much for sharing. there are some things i'm looking for in a tv that i do not want to sacrifice or end up buying one with out. ironically they are things u mentioned: hdmi, cable card, PIP,.... from what i know, this unit has all of those AND its HD.
the other tv's i was considering were all ED's.

i currently have a 27" CRT so PQ is not going to be a finely debated issue for me. hence talk about comparitive black levels, shades of gray/color and flesh tones,etc.. bounce off me water in a hot greased skillet! most anything out there will be a HUGE improvement over what i have. i just want to ensure that what i have will last both build-quality & technically for the 10 years (tho i may opt to replace it anyway in 5).

anyone else have one of these tv's or know about philips plasmas in general?

I saw costco website has the TV. May take a visit to store to see if it is available there.

I saw costco website has the TV. May take a visit to store to see if it is available there.


great let me know what u find out happybear. :)

Hi everyone,

I went to Costco to take a peek at this TV but they said that it was only available via the Web. From reading the forums, I think I'm going to go to CC and take a look at plasma set. I'm also waiting for the price drop on the Panny's coming up this weekend to see how cheap the Panny plasmas will get.

Andy

me too! i noticed that the philips (both the 7320 & the 9630) have been dropping in price on several online sites! i'm anxious to see where they will be after sept 1. if their price is low enuff on the 9630 i will get that one instead of the 7320.

speaking of pannys has anyone noticed the significant price reductions on the px25's? i'm am seriously considering this one as well.

i wish i had comparable spec sheets for both models (panny px25 & philips 9630). although i know ultimately it may come down to what i see in person.

I looked at the philips 9630 next to a panny px50u. I want a 42 of one or the other but of course bestbuy had the 50" philips and the 37" panny across from each other. I thought the pictures were both great but philips won, the panny's colors were unrealistic and could see some pixelation that I didn't see on the philips maybe it was connected bad or something but the feed was the same so thats what I saw. The black level was a little better on the panny but I think that was because of its unrealistic colors. I still want to check out the 7320 because I can get a hell of a deal for that tv through a discount I can recieve philips.com. I could get a discount on the 9630 50" also but that would break my budget, they have all their tv's up for discount except for the 42" 9630 (of course).

Hmm.. from checking out the Philips 7320 at Circuit City, I don't think the PQ for a HD broadcast on the Philips is quite as good as a Panny 42PX50U's. I wonder if this is just the way Circuit City has adjusted the settings on the Philips though. Still going to wait to see what the prices are on plasmas across the board after this weekend before I decide what to buy.

Hmm.. from checking out the Philips 7320 at Circuit City, I don't think the PQ for a HD broadcast on the Philips is quite as good as a Panny 42PX50U's. I wonder if this is just the way Circuit City has adjusted the settings on the Philips though. Still going to wait to see what the prices are on plasmas across the board after this weekend before I decide what to buy.

I was at Fry's No. Calif. and it must have been DLP day as only those sets along one wall had the best displays and a congregation of salesmen talking them up. The Phillips, Pannys, etc didn't look so hot. Then went to Circuit City and saw just the opposite. Go figure. :)

Just saw this TV at Sam's. Looked good to me. Sorry for the separate thread.

Congrats dude. I just got the Sammy 4262 myself. The panny peeps are payin 20 to 30% premium for the name i think to feel safe. And that safety is a fact cause they're nice sets, but I pocketed some big cash. All the glass makers have new generations so any name brand 42+ size is gonna be very nice, imo. Correct me if i wrg, but matsushita, lg-philips, and samsung are the big 3 glassmakers so they should all be very comparable. Cheers

Does anyone have a full review of the 42PF7320A? I was surprised that there is very little info on this site, as this is the most informative on the web.

Saw the Philips at CC, looked like it was a bit out of focus/fuzzy compared to others.... but has a few features others do not have (i.e. automatic resizing of picture to fill screen)....

Thanks csmith

I saw it on the CC website, thats where it caught my eye.
I believe I will be getting a $2500 store credit to my malfunctioning Panny PT-40LC12. I still haven't got the official OK, but I am planning none the less :)

I installed it yesteday and connected it to my OTA antenna and an ADS HD Up converter. The PQ looks great on PBS DTV. Some of our locals here in the DC region are playing games with the power output level. Tested 480i to 1080i upconvert using "The Matrix" DVD. Fairly good clarity. You can not trust the box stores to have the sets properly tuned. CC and BB appear to only tune the sets they are trying to push. I purchased mine through a CNET verified store and had it freighted to the door for $500< than CC. I will integrate it later with Dish receiver.

how do those who purchased these sets like them? This one is in the running for me now too... some good prices to be had... surprisingly less at cc than costco? what's that all about?

This TV is currently $2299 at Sam's Club. Wonder how much lower it will as we're hoping to go HD around Christmas time.

This TV is currently $2299 at Sam's Club. Wonder how much lower it will as we're hoping to go HD around Christmas time.

Under 2 at Sears. Seems like a great deal. More feedback from owners would be great.

Thanks.

Under 2 at Sears. Seems like a great deal. More feedback from owners would be great.

Thanks.10% off that in a few small chain ads in NJ and FL/GA.

Poster on FW says some sears have it in store for $100 less than their .com price.

I just bought a Philips 42PF7320A a few weeks ago and now the display is flickering on and off. It hasn't been 30 days yet so I'm gonna bring it back. Nice picture and I hope it's just an isolated incident. Does anyone know who manufactures the Akai 50-inch Plasma?

What do they mean by HDMI-Component PIP? I'm interested in this set and want PIP. I have PIP in my current set and just switch between different inputs. Could someone explain?

Thanks.

What do they mean by HDMI-Component PIP? I'm interested in this set and want PIP. I have PIP in my current set and just switch between different inputs. Could someone explain?

Thanks.

I just purchased this set and the PIP function is extremely limited. Per the manual, your only allowed PIP between 1 HDMI source and 1 Broadcast source. My scientific atlantic 8300HD set top box provides HDMI output. I use a signal splitter, splitting the cable signal between my tv and set top box. This allows me to use the PIP function. The Dual Screen PIP function looks great but again is somewhat limited with audio. After playing with it for sometime, It has become easy to switch audio between the 2 sources. Can't wait for some football games this weekend.

Is this the model with the ethernet port? If so, anyone try it out and see what it can do?

I was looking at getting this TV and was trying to figure out why it was so low priced. 10,000:1 CR, 1500 bright, 1024x768, 2 HDMI, HDTV tuner seems too good for the price. I compared this to the panasonic or samsung for a grand more and lesser stats(3000:1, 1000 bright etc...1 HDMI) . What makes these TVs better then the philips or are no stats to backup the extra grand?

Also does anyone know the reponse time for this tv?

The only thing I worry about is not being able to find out much about Philips reliability. PQ is good, maybe not the ultimate, but very good.

I've had my Philips (42PF7320A) for 5 days now. I orginally purchased a Sony 50" LCD Rear Projection (KDFE50A10) and realized it was too big for my room. I thought about downgrading to the same model at 42", but for my original purchase price (which I already got the wife to sign off on :p ) I could get the philips. This set fits my room much better.

The picture quality is excellent and even SD and analog look decent (much better than the Sony). Just wishing HD was broadcast universally, guess we have to wait until 2009. Another main selling point for me was the 2 HDMI ports. I have a STB with HDMI output and a Sony Upscaling DVD player with HDMI output. DVD's and HD look awesome. For the price, you just can't get a better deal on PQ.

Now for the downside. First and foremost, the audio on this unit is HORRIBLE. This isn't a problem for most since a home theater hookup is used, but this is a must. The Sony I had originally purchased blows away the Philips. It gets difficult at times to hear speech, and I've tried to adjust the settings without much success. From my STB I have a very noticeable audio level difference between my SD & HD channels, the leveler with this set does not work as well as expected. Personally, I like to see on-screen the volume being adjusted, this set does not display that when increasing or decreasing volume. Since I haven't had this set for too long I can't be sure, but there doesnt seem to be way to save AV settings for each type of input, another big difference between the Sony and Philips. PIP, especially Dual Screen, looks great, but is somewhat limited by your choices of inputs to display in PIP.

Essentially, you will be very happy with PQ, but make sure you have a home theater hookup. :)

I was playing with a remote for the 9630 (I'm thinking of getting the 50") and there is a menu setup option for OSD that allows volume to be shown.
Check to see that yours can do this also.
Ron

I was playing with a remote for the 9630 (I'm thinking of getting the 50") and there is a menu setup option for OSD that allows volume to be shown.
Check to see that yours can do this also.
Ron

Thanks Ron! Got it to work. But it continually displays channel and input info. Is there any easy way for this to turn off?

A couple of initial observations.

Picked up this set last weekend. I am very pleased with the price.

Have it set up with D*TV HR 250 via HDMI and an XBox via component

I also have a Pioneer Plasma which I really like set up upstairs. THis unit is for the basement.

Set up:
I thought the stand was on the cheap side. It does not seem that sturdy and you cannot adjust it at all.

THe TV lacks any good hand holds. The Pio has some which makes it less scary when moving it around.

PQ
SD is pretty good. Getting a little of the screen door effect on some channels. The Pio is slightly better.

HD is very good. Again, I would say the Pio is slightly better.

Comparing a bunch of similar sets at CC, my eyes indicated that the picture quality was equal to most of the ones they had set up.

Need to do some tweaking. Anyone willing to share their settings?

This TV has lots of features and connections. Lots of room to add things

The tuner is not picking up over the air as well at the direct tv tuner. It only picked up a few of the local stations. I do have some attena issues.

Overall, I am pleased. THe set seems to offer very good value.

Just curious to know if the connection is through HDMI , do you still use the progressive feature from the DVD player ? Can this Philips plasma accept both NTSC and PAL progressive scan signal from the dvd player and playback without problem ?

Also this model is using HD panel instead of ED panel , is this correct ?

Just picked mine up today and I think I like it. I haven't been able to pick up any HD channels yet. I'm waiting for the cable guy to come out with the cable card. I hooked it up straight to my cable without a box. It searches and finds my analog channels and over 200 digital channels. I can see the analog channels ok (as good as SD will be I guess) but the only thing I seem to get on the digital ones is some of the music channels. Any advice would be appreciated.

Anyone know if Sams return policy is as good as Costco's?

Anyone know if Sams return policy is as good as Costco's?It's very darn close. Reports (over on FW) are that Sam's has been actively trying to get the word out that they will match Costco's return policy.....

I just picked this tv up this past weekend. Picture quality was good out of the box, I lowered the contract and brightness to 50% for break in thread (I read a post here about that). Picture definitely doesn't look as good at these levels on some darker channels. But once the break in period is over, I know how good the picture looks with the contact up to 80% and the brightness at 50%.

No HD or digital cable yet, this weekend Im getting the cable card installed. So far, so good though. Great TV for the price. I also have to update to the newest firmware from philips website released on 10/5/05.

Is it true that Sam's will match a Costco warranty. Other than the interest free purchasing period, I don't see why anyone would buy this tv anywhere but Sam's or Costco give their return policy.

1.Cheaper purchase price
2.Free extended warranty
3.Can return anytime


How long will Sam's and Costco let you return a TV??? :eek:

Anyone know the service code for this set. I tried 123654 which gives liited info but not the hours.

This is my first HD tv. Bought it at Sam's two days ago. Picture looks okay with progressive scan dvd player. Not impressed with Direct TV (regular tuner not HD)

Should I return mine or am I just too picky?

I would be interested to see what other people's settings are on this TV.

thanks,

Most HD sets including plasma don't look that good with many SD channels, even satellite. I have been looking at the 50" philips model at Sam's and got to finally compare it on HD to the 50 Samsung next to it and it was as good and maybe better. The other day, both units were on DVD and I thought the Samsung looked better. Bottom line, you've got a year to return it to Sam's so I'd wait till you tweak settings and get HD before doing anything. I'm pretty confident that you can make that set look awesome for most viewing.

So I’m very worried about my 2 day old 50” Philips plasma. There is so much noise during dark scenes. If I walk up close to the screen it almost looks like black snow on really dark parts of the screen. I have never seen this before on any of my other TV’s. Is this normal can it be corrected? Also there seems to be like this solorizing effect on skin tones and dark scenes. It kinda reminds me the colorizing or polarizing effect on my DV cam. Is this something that is normal for plasmas? That doesn’t bother me as much as the noise. Can someone please shed some light on this for me?

So I’m very worried about my 2 day old 50” Philips plasma. There is so much noise during dark scenes. If I walk up close to the screen it almost looks like black snow on really dark parts of the screen. I have never seen this before on any of my other TV’s. Is this normal can it be corrected? Also there seems to be like this solorizing effect on skin tones and dark scenes. It kinda reminds me the colorizing or polarizing effect on my DV cam. Is this something that is normal for plasmas? That doesn’t bother me as much as the noise. Can someone please shed some light on this for me?
This noise you speak of... is the reason why Plasma as a technology was just not the move for me. I couldnt get over the blotching on dark scenes.

So this is normal?

I'm not sure. Have you tried tweaking the settings and color temp? Try turning off all the digital noise reductions circuits and maybe with and without Pixel Plus. I don't think you should be seeing this unless you're within a few feet of the screen. Good luck.

Which model do you have?

My model # is 50PF9630A. Would you sugest putting everything back to factory settings and start from there?

I'm no expert, but that may be an idea. I know Cnet pretty much recommends all Digital noise circuitry and things like pixel plus are a bad idea. I must confess, I use some of them on my Pioneer. I'd be surprised if you can't find a good group of settings. Keep me posted as I had the Philips 50 on the top of my list.

So I should turn off the Digital noise reducer and pixel plus? What could that help correct?

Well the sharpness at 0 and I just turned down the contrast and everything is still there. I tried playing a 720p X-Box game and it looked absolutely horrible with the noise running thru the picture and the solorizing effect. I really have no idea if this is how the set is suppose to be or I have a defective one. If I have a defective one what could be wrong with it. I’ve already exchanged TV’s twice at Circuit City so I don’t know if they would let me do it again. As far as burn-in is concerned there is some image retention that I can see when I turn off my DVD player or X-Box but it quickly goes away. But seriously the noise in the picture makes it look like I’m running everything thru an RF cable

I don't know why turning the stuff off is recommended. Seems counterintuitive, but most AV mags and Cnet say they add unwanted effects, make things worse. I donnno. Are you using at least component video cables? HDMI?

Both the DVD player and X-Box are using component cables. Could it be that I have a bad set?

To anyone that has a 42pf3720a wall mounted:

could you PLEASE list any mounts that are confirmed to fit this TV. Philips, every mount etailer, and every mount manufacturer I've spoken with has listed mounts that SHOULD fit or MIGHT fit.

Just looking for some confirmation.

TIA.....

The omnimout U3 tilt will fit. That's the one I've used. It will fit only with the extensions which are included with this mount model. I put up extensions on both sides, but you'd only need them on one side, really.

Both the DVD player and X-Box are using component cables. Could it be that I have a bad set?
I think you ought to exchange the set for the same model. Or, could you bring your DVD's and X-box to try the floor model out. Most say that the sets should look better at home, but that's a generalization.

Going to make the call to CC today. Do you guys have any of these effects on your screen?

New one will be here Saterday. Hope it is better

Oliver,

I dont have any of the effects you indicate on your screen. Mine is clear as a bell.
From what you are describing it sounds like false artifacts and maybe banding. My experience with the Philips is that this type of thing is usually caused by bad signal quality , to include limited bandwidth and compression artifacts. As far as Pixel Plus 2HD it can only help. Once you get your set working youll see that.

Casey Jones I'm not sure if I understand what you are saying. You are saying that the new set won't look any different and that the problem is caused by a bad signal meaning my cables or players?

Casey Jones can you please explain your last post to me?

To anyone that has a 42pf3720a wall mounted:

could you PLEASE list any mounts that are confirmed to fit this TV. Philips, every mount etailer, and every mount manufacturer I've spoken with has listed mounts that SHOULD fit or MIGHT fit.

Just looking for some confirmation.

TIA.....

I bought the Sanus systems VMPL3 wall mount. It needs no additional add ons like most of the others out there.

I am very happy with it.

Casey Jones do you mean that I may have bad component cables?

I have the 42" model, and have had no issues with the picture so far. I have my contrast and brightness set to about 45 right now. I'll up it later on. I noticed that keep the sharpness not high seems to help. Overall, the picture is great with DVD's and amazing with Comcast HD channels (really has to be see to be believed). Not sure what the problem could be. I also have the DNR and Pixel Plus all truned on, so I don't think it's that.

Wow, my grammar sucks today:)

So here’s another weird thing that happened. I put in a thumb drive to try and upgrade the software and right away the picture looked amazing. I’m talking about the menu for the software upgrade. There was no noise at all. Then I turned off the TV with the remote witch I found out means the software didn’t get installed cause I had to turn it off from the TV itslef. So when I go to put back in the USB drive it says there is nothing on it and the picture is full of noise again. Also the zero button on my remote turns the set on and off.

bump

To anyone that has a 42pf3720a wall mounted:

could you PLEASE list any mounts that are confirmed to fit this TV. Philips, every mount etailer, and every mount manufacturer I've spoken with has listed mounts that SHOULD fit or MIGHT fit.

Just looking for some confirmation.

TIA.....

I just purchased this tv over the weekend and hung it on the wall using the Sanus universal tilt wall mount at Target, it worked really well and was only $129.99.

I just purchased this tv over the weekend and hung it on the wall using the Sanus universal tilt wall mount at Target, it worked really well and was only $129.99.

fester,
which model sanus was this? i searched on targets website but did not see any sanus wall mounts.

fester,
which model sanus was this? Same question.

What's the model # of the Sanus mount, please?

EDIT: Just went to www.sanus.com/mounts/ and it now had the 42pf7320a listed in the drop down menu. Results showed models: VMDD, VMPL2 plus the VMB1 adapter, VMPL3, VMPL plus VMB1 adapter.

Also spoke with one of the big mount stores in Boston, and they recommended the Peerless ST660 or SF660, which can be found rather cheaply thru the usual price engines.......

anyone figure out how to remove the anoying yellow frame around the screen with sound. I did get a little burn in from having it set on PIP

Thanks

Same question.

What's the model # of the Sanus mount, please?

EDIT: Just went to www.sanus.com/mounts/ and it now had the 42pf7320a listed in the drop down menu. Results showed models: VMDD, VMPL2 plus the VMB1 adapter, VMPL3, VMPL plus VMB1 adapter.

Also spoke with one of the big mount stores in Boston, and they recommended the Peerless ST660 or SF660, which can be found rather cheaply thru the usual price engines.......

I mounted mine a couple weeks ago using OmniMount Plasma Tilt Wall Mount (U3TILTMOUNT). It fits close and real nice. Ordered it from Amazon:

Link (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00022VBEU/104-1368220-8213500?v=glance&n=172282&n=507846&s=electronics&v=glance)

Just spoke with Peerless CS. Even tho their website doesn't list it, they are now confirming that they have mounts to fit the 42pf7320a:

flat: SF660, plus adapter/extension ACC920

Tilt: ST660, plus adapter/estension ACC921


Trouble is, the adapters are VERY had to find; most sites that sell mounts don't even list the adapters. Buy.com lists the 921, but I can't recall if it was even in stock; they don't even list the 920 (I'm not sure, but I wonder if they are the same part just with different numbers for tilt and flat). mountsandmore.com and racksandstands.com both have both adapters available, but they are much more expensive for the actual 660 mount.

HTH.....

Can anyone tell me if the speakers are detachable and, if so, what's the width with out them?

The speakers are not detachable.

Hello,
Just picked up the 42PF7320A. So far im very happy tho its hard to tell the PQ right now being i have brightness and contrast low (Contrast 60, Brightness 40 is that low enofe for break in?) And just how long is break in anyways? I have an Avia disc on its way right now. Another question is what other settings should be on or off? Like Pixel plus or Dynamic contrast? Im not to sure. What eles do i need to know about this tv?

This is a great TV why no one talk?

I bought this from CC online on Thanksgiving day. My primary target was Panny
42PD50U (ED), which is very very hot right now. My local BB didn't have it in stock.
Fry's and CC actually raised their prices on Black Friday !

I set it up yesterday. Overall, I am satisfied with its picture quality. HD is good.
480P from my budget DVD player is pretty sharp and crispy with component inputs. Some SD (480i) cable channels from big TV stations are good. Others
are poor (e.g. Home Shopping Network).
Black level is good enough for us (maybe not as good as Panny).

When I was watching 'Toy Story' yesterday, I paused it and switched Pixel Plus on and off.
The difference is pretty clear. It enhanced the edges of objects on the screen.

Dynamic Contrast is on. DNR is on. I haven't done any tests on those yet.

Here are some cons of the unit(Manufactured in Oct. 2005 with firmware 1.0.8 ),
which I don't like:

1. Setting menu is POOR.
Pressing 'OK' button of remote on a sub menu will close the sub menu and goes back to
the parent menu. Use right arrow to drill down to the sub-menu of current item,
not OK button ! Who designed this?

2. The layout of menu is not easy to navigate. I have hard time to locate the
menu to search all TV channels.

3. OSD (on screen display) is POOR.
OSD has two options: Normal and minimum.
Normal:
the new channel # is still displayed on the screen long after the channel is switched.
Another post on this forum said it would go away after 10 minutes.
Why not 10 seconds?

Minimum:
It does get rid of the channel # above. But, it does not display the speaker volume either, when it is changed. (You will find other posts on this forum,
which is complaining the very same thing.)


Hopefully, Philips will fix those problems in furture firmware releases. Firmware
upgrade is very easy.

To anyone that has a 42pf3720a wall mounted:

could you PLEASE list any mounts that are confirmed to fit this TV. Philips, every mount etailer, and every mount manufacturer I've spoken with has listed mounts that SHOULD fit or MIGHT fit.

Just looking for some confirmation.

TIA.....

The Sanus VMSA (from BB) works fine . . . If you buy two 36" pieces of 1" OD steel tubing to replace the two 32" tubes supplied with the mount. Which I did. This mount is pricey but is stout as can be. I'm pleased with it.

I bought this TV at CC on BF. They were all sold out but I found an open box model at one local stores at a sweet price. I only have the TV hooked up to some rabbit ear antenna's and my Samsung 6610 home theater dvd player with component cables.

The local channels with a strong signal look pretty good. The weaker channels look like crap as you can imagine. I'm currently comparing Satellite and cable providers and their HD packages.

In watching dvd's, I've also found some solarization and blotchiness in dark scenes. Especially skin tones. In brighter scenes the picture is just fantastic though. I put in the first season of LOST DVD and the picture blows me away. When I put in Star Wars 3 I can really see the blotchy skin tones in the darker scenes. I tried re-setting the factory default settings, then boosted up the brightness to about 55 and turned down the color setting a bit and it seemed to help but not completely. Any other thoughts on this? Could it be an issue of cables or dvd quality or is it just a function of the TV itself. Anyone else notice this with their set? Also, I'm probably one sitting 7-8 feet away. (too close?)

I've also noticed that the the picture didn't change much (if at all) when I turned off the progressive scan function of the dvd player. I then found out that the TV has it's own progressive function. Cool.

I really like the auto zoom function to keep the black bars away. (yes I'm burn-in paranoid). For the most part I think the speakers are fine. They're not high-end audiophile quality but for daily tv watching I think they are more than adequate. I do the think the whole menu system takes a little to get used to. Not the easiest to navigate but not awful either.

The next thing I'm working on is mounting this above my fireplace. After I brought the tv home I went wall mount shopping. I picked up the Sanus fmpl50 at Walmart for 129. (target has the same one) When I came home I went to the Sanus website and looked up the mount model and it didn't come up as compatible with the 7230 tv. So back it went and I picked up a Omni Tilt mount at CC for 250. Any advice on using this mount onto a brick fireplace? Has anyone tried to use that Sanus model from Walmart/Target? Success?

Well there's my quick review so far. As I do more with the TV I'll post my findings. If anyone can help with my questions that would be great. In summary they are:

1. What is causing the solarization/blotchiness in the dark scenes? What can be done about it?
2. Am I just too close to this tv?
3. Any advice on the Omni tilt mount installation? Anyone try the Sanus FPML50 model?

Thank you.

Dave

Dave,
Have you upgraded your firmware yet?

The latest is 1.0.8, which is available on philips web site.

Some posts mentioned PQ improvements after firmware upgrade.

You need a USB drive formatted in FAT file system. (No FAT32 or NTFS.)

Hi Everest. I have not done that. I have to ask - is it an easy thing to do? Never done something like that before.

Dave

is there a way to check what version of the firmware is on the tv? mine was manufactured in oct '05.

I bought this plasma at Costco and have been generally pleased. It's a great value and with Costco's return policy I don't think you can go wrong. My thoughts-

PQ on HD is excellent, and SD isn't too bad either. (I'm using component inputs on Adelphia's Moxi HD DVR box.)

DVDs, I've had some issues with loss of detail in the dark scenes. But I think this issue relates to my Samsung HD841- I'm going to try the highly rated Oppo player to see if this resolves the problem. (I did all the hacks on the HD841 but no difference.)

Menu - as others have stated it is poorly designed. The volume not being displayed is annoying, but I've left it on the minimum setting since I don't want to see my input choice displayed. I also wish there was a dedicated button to choose among inputs, instead of having to cycle among them.

Picture settings - Contrast 75, Brightness 45, Color 45, Sharp 5, Color Temp Normal, Pixel Plus on, Dynamic contrast medium, DNR medium, Color enhancement on, Tint 0, Active Control maximum. (I'm ignoring the burn-in recommendations and using what looks best.)

Sound is definitely average to below average periodically. I wish the speakers were detachable. I'm going to play around with the settings to see if I can find something more optimal.

I looked to upgrade the firmware and though the generation dates were different on my TV's firmware and what I found on the Philips website, the versions were the same, BX23U-1.0.8.0_00, so I did not upgrade. You can check the firmware in the menu under installation, then software upgrade, then current software info.

Anyone get the PIP to work? I'm not sure how to set it up with my cable box.

Bottom line: great PQ with some minor annoyances, along with great value. I'd love to hear other owners experiences.

Unlike this brave soul i still got some break in time left. Tight now it seems like a great TV. Love it

Hi Everest. I have not done that. I have to ask - is it an easy thing to do? Never done something like that before.

Dave

Bookmark the following URL, which is the front page of 42PF7320A.
http://www.consumer.philips.com/consumer/catalog/product.jsp?language=en&country=US&catalogType=CONSUMER&productId=42PF7320A_37_US_CONSUMER

You can get this URL from Philips site:
1. Select country: US (English)
2. Search 42PF7320A in the search box.


The following URL leads to the online document:
http://www.p4c.philips.com/na4/4/42pf7320a_37/42pf7320a_37_dfu_aen.pdf

You can get this online doc from the front page of this product (1) click 'Product Support'
link (2) Click 'Directions for Use' link
To check your current firmware verion: (Page 40)

Verifying the version of the TV software
Before starting the software upgrade procedure, it is advised to check what
the current TV software is.
1. Select Software Upgrade in the Installation menu.

2. Press the cursor right.
The Software Upgrade menu moves to the left panel.

3. Select Current Software Info to observe the version and the description
of the current software.

To Upgrade your TV:
1. Read the 'Readme' file first. Download a zip file from the 'Product Support' page, 'Software' Section.

2. unzip 'autorun.upg' file to root directory of a USB flash drive. The USB drive must be formatted as FAT file system.

3. Follow instructions on Page 41:


Automatic software upgrade procedure
1. Power off your TV and remove all memory devices.
2. Insert the USB portable memory that contains the downloaded software
upgrade.
3. Switch on your TV with the POWER button on your remote control.
4. At startup the TV will scan the USB portable memory until it finds the
update content.The TV will automatically go to the upgrade mode. After a
few seconds it will display the status of the upgrade procedure.
Warning:
• You are not allowed to remove the USB portable memory during the software
upgrade procedure!
• In case of a power drop during the upgrade procedure, don’t remove the USB
portable memory from the TV. The TV will continue the upgrade as soon as the
power comes back.
• If you try to upgrade to a software version lower than the current version, a
confirmation will be asked. Downgrading to older software should only be done in
case of real necessity.
• If an error occurs during the upgrade you should retry the procedure or contact
your dealer.
( When the software upgrade was successful, remove the USB portable
memory and restart your TV with the POWER button on your remote
control.
Your TV will start up with the new software.
Note: Once the upgrade is finished use your PC to remove the TV software from
your USB portable memory.


-----------------------------
Updated on 01/18/06:

Reported by some people on this forum:
If the TV has the same firmware version as the one on the USB drive, TV simply
ignores it and starts normally.

Check your existing version before the firmware update.

I've had this tv for about 4 days. The picture quality is better on some channels than others, and it is annoying to have to adjust the settings to get a better picture for the different signals. On some HD channels, the quality is not that great for some reason. I have an Adelphia Moxi HD box. I notice some pixelation especially on scenes with objects that are very close to eachother like bleacher seats or a wall with a square pattern; the pixels look like they are moving along the edges of these objects. Is it possible I may be sitting too close to the TV? My couch is about 8 1/2 feet away. I noticed something today that I thought was odd - I put the tv on mute and the volume came back on by itself in 30 minutes or so. Also, I'm not sure if the picture is supposed to have very narrow black lines around all four sides? It didn't seem like they were there when I first set up the TV. These lines are right behind the black lines on the edges of the glass; they are a little less than 1/4" wide, does anyone else have this?

i havent them black lines as well. Seems to have been there since i set it up

Everest, thank you for all the good info. Have you upgraded yours yet? Any difference?

Dok - The issue your having with the dark scenes on dvd's sounds like the same one I'm having, and I also have a Samsung dvd player. If you wouldn't mind I'd like to hear how the other player works for you.

Oh, and I also have the 1/4" black lines around the screen. All in all I think this is a great tv and I can't wait to get HD service. I'm considering the Dish network HD package - any one out there using it? Any more info on wall mounts for this model?

Dave

Everest, thank you for all the good info. Have you upgraded yours yet? Any difference?


Dave

You are welcome!
I haven't upgraded mine, b/c it has the latest FW installed already.

Regarding the mute, I think the TV does not store the mute status. I set it to mute.
Turn it off. When I turn it back on, the mute is gone.

Report whatever you think is not right to Philips, otherwise nothing will be done. :mad:


I have done so via online support already. Haven't got any response yet.

Dok - The issue your having with the dark scenes on dvd's sounds like the same one I'm having, and I also have a Samsung dvd player. If you wouldn't mind I'd like to hear how the other player works for you.

Oh, and I also have the 1/4" black lines around the screen. All in all I think this is a great tv and I can't wait to get HD service. I'm considering the Dish network HD package - any one out there using it? Any more info on wall mounts for this model?

Dave

I have a 3/4'' black bar on the right side of the screen when watching 4:3 DVD

(480P, component inputs and 16:9 output ) even with format set to automatic mode.

I think it might have something to do with DVD player. I will try to borrow another
DVD player from a friend to see if that is the case.

I wonder how this tv would compare to a DLP marked around the same price?

I have a 3/4'' black bar on the right side of the screen when watching 4:3 DVD

(480P, component inputs and 16:9 output ) even with format set to automatic mode.

I think it might have something to do with DVD player. I will try to borrow another
DVD player from a friend to see if that is the case.

I connected an old DVD player and the black bar was gone.

Then, I tested my newer DVD player (CyberHome DVD 300) and found the problem:
P-scan .

When I turned off the progressive scan on my DVD player, the black bar disappeared
regardless other factors: 4:3 or 16:9, composit video or component video.

It seems that it's the problem of DVD player, but the TV has not been totally ruled out.


:confused:

I have comcast HD. Never watched so many nature shows in my life :P

I have a 3/4'' black bar on the right side of the screen when watching 4:3 DVD

(480P, component inputs and 16:9 output ) even with format set to automatic mode.

I think it might have something to do with DVD player. I will try to borrow another
DVD player from a friend to see if that is the case.

Using the wheel on the remote control you should be able to adjust(move) the picture , left, right up or down. Wouldnt that eliminate the bar?

Newbie here.

I have been hanging around here for a few days reading a lot. In the past few months, I have gone from deciding on a Panasonic, to a Dell, back to Panasonic, and now to this Philips Plasma. The main reason I am considering this one is for price. i went to CC yesterday and compared it to several other brands. I have to say, that it looked as good as anything thing else they had set up in the store (in a near comparable price). I know that the stores can make sets look bad (in order to sell other ones) but the picture on the Philips was very sharp and the colors were very good. I am curious about a few things:

1. I have read the specs that say the contrast ratio is 10,000:1. But in CC, it was listed as 3,000:1. What's the deal?

2. I have Time Warner cable with a DVR (and will need to upgrade to the HD DVR), but is there ANY reason I would want or need a cablecard?

3. I am unfamiliar with HDMI. Is that the best input to use? Does the sending component (cable box, DVD player, etc) have to have this output to send? I assume it does.

4. I am also concerned about the black bar around the screen that some are describing. It seems to me that you would be able to stretch the screen dimensions as you can on a computer monitor to get rid of it. Is this possible? i guess if it is always there for every thing you view, it would be ok since burn-in would not be noticed. I would like to hear more on this issue.

1.)10,000:1 From Phiilips web site

B.) Ya know i dont understand the point to a cable card besides not have the cable box hanging out.

III.) Id go HDMI for HDtv, As i understand it DVD wount take advantage fromt he extra Bandwidth

Four.) Man dont worry about them black bars. The diplay you looked at would of hab em too. We are talking a 1/4 of an inch here. Its where the glass ends. I havent seen a TV with out one yet. Any questions hit me up on aim SPK8000LG I just got done the 100hr break in and gonna log some halo time :)

3horns: Following up on your post. I too have Time Warner and I upgraded to the HD DVR, it has HDMI output and it works great. I also have an upconverting DVD player connected to the other HDMI port, no complaints. I agree with SPK8000LG, the black trim around the screen is negligible. For the price you just cant beat the picture quality. HD telecasts are awesome. SD is so-so (but expected). There are some negatives that have been previously posted, PIP, Menu, Speakers, OSD, but I think on whole this is well worth the purchase price.

With all that said though, I'm actually encountering a problem that I need to consult with a local service rep to fix. Anyone else here occasionally have their TV go "black" but the green power light is still on? And then in about 5-7 seconds the video and audio resume. I've seen 2 others report the same problem on the 32" model. It doesnt happen to often, but seems to be increasing in frequency. Waiting for the service rep to get back to me, he's checking with Philips.

Hmm i had the same problem but it was my cable box. I cant comment on the sound i use my own set up for audio. The TV is really really sharp and the sale i got for black friday made it really nice. On a side note my DVI to HDMi cable just showed up...Im gonna try to get my pc to play nice with the TV :)

Just Played around with powerstrip for 3 hrs. Still cant get it 100% anyone wanna recommend me the setting to get it to look right?

Dok - The issue your having with the dark scenes on dvd's sounds like the same one I'm having, and I also have a Samsung dvd player. If you wouldn't mind I'd like to hear how the other player works for you.

Dave

I got my new Oppo DVD player, and it has taken care of the "black crush" problem that I was having with the Samsung HD841 player. The dark areas are now visible. The Oppo player also has brightness and contrast settings to further refine the picture. It also upconverts to 720p and the picture is great over DVI-HDMI! (The Oppo doesn't play SACDs though, so I'll keep the Samsung around for these.)

I got my new Oppo DVD player, and it has taken care of the "black crush" problem that I was having with the Samsung HD841 player. The dark areas are now visible. The Oppo player also has brightness and contrast settings to further refine the picture. It also upconverts to 720p and the picture is great over DVI-HDMI! (The Oppo doesn't play SACDs though, so I'll keep the Samsung around for these.)

That's good to hear about the improvements with the Oppo player. It might be worth considering getting one. Any recommendations for other up-conversion players aside from the Oppo?

Using the wheel on the remote control you should be able to adjust(move) the picture , left, right up or down. Wouldnt that eliminate the bar?

Thank you, Casey Jones !

Those arrows on the wheel worked.

:)

Any help what would be a good rez to run with a pc? and how to work powerstripe?

I have what may sound like a silly question, but... Has anyone watched this with a VCR? The last Viore plasma I got from Sam's would drop the signal to a blue screen and then take a second or two to recover the signal whenever I fast-forwarded or rewound the tape. I'm not talking about stopping the tape, either, but instead just a quick zip through commercials. Sounds minor, but very irritating when you're watching a tape.

I saw a post on a Vizio 37" LCD that described the same thing... Is this a common occurrence among new TVs?

Just wondering, as that Viore died on me a couple of weeks after I got it, and I haven't replaced it yet. I was thinking of picking up this Philips from Sams in the next day or so.

Ok, finally last night I tuned in my rabbit ears the best I could and finally went through the Autoprogram function so the TV would locate all the local HD channels. All I can say is "Holy S**t!" The picture is just awesome. I had no idea that the local stations in here the 'burgh were putting this out. For instance, I can barely tune in our standard local CBS station but I get a crystal clear CBS-HD broadcast. I've never seen Letterman look so good. I even suffered through some of the PBS Doom and gloom environmental programming just because the picture was so sweet.

I just bought a medium range directional antenna from Lowes that I'm going to run into my attic tonight, that should improve the picture even more.

I started working on my wall mount to put the plasma above the fireplace. I'm putting in an Omni U3Tilt Mount. I drilled the holes throught he brick with a 1/2" masonary bit per the instructions and I noticed that they give you plastic wall anchors for inside the holes. Are these going to be adequate or should I go out and buy metal ones? I guess all the force is running parallel to the wall so maybe they'll be fine. Thoughts?

Also speaking of wall mountsm- Sanus has a recall out. Check it out.

http://www.thepittsburghchannel.com/money/5436975/detail.html

Dave

My Costco has this Philips plasma both online and in store (as of a few days ago). The model number ends in 7220A. It looked good compared to the Panasonic EDTV, quite a few more features and not much more $$$. I would guess, as in the past, Costco has different model numbers than CC. I could not find any reviews of the Philips model carried at Costco.

My Costco has this Philips plasma both online and in store (as of a few days ago). The model number ends in 7220A. It looked good compared to the Panasonic EDTV, quite a few more features and not much more $$$. I would guess, as in the past, Costco has different model numbers than CC. I could not find any reviews of the Philips model carried at Costco.

I think 7220A and 7320A are pretty close (if not identical), because they
share the same user's guide, which is available on Philips web site.

Do a search for 42PF7220A and 42PF7320A on philips.com (US English).

I have read some discussions about 7220A on this forum. Just do a search here.

Off topic ...
The Panasonic EDTV available at my local Costco is only a HD monitor (42PM50U).
It does not have tuners available on 42PD50U. A tuner box may cost $200.
So, Costco Panasonic EDTV deal is not that sweet.

My Costco has this Philips plasma both online and in store (as of a few days ago). The model number ends in 7220A. It looked good compared to the Panasonic EDTV, quite a few more features and not much more $$$. I would guess, as in the past, Costco has different model numbers than CC. I could not find any reviews of the Philips model carried at Costco.


I bought the 7220A from Costco and believe this is essentially the same model as the 7320A. Even the manual that came with mine is for the 7320A.

I started working on my wall mount to put the plasma above the fireplace. I'm putting in an Omni U3Tilt Mount. I drilled the holes throught he brick with a 1/2" masonary bit per the instructions and I noticed that they give you plastic wall anchors for inside the holes. Are these going to be adequate or should I go out and buy metal ones? I guess all the force is running parallel to the wall so maybe they'll be fine. Thoughts?


Plastic anchors are usually fine as the expand to fill the holes when you put the screws in. One easy way to test the anchors is to mount the bracket to the wall and tug on it a few times to see if you can pull it off- if you don't feel happy with the way it feels when you do this, then I would get something stronger...

There is a masonary screw that I like to use that goes directly into the brick/masonary. All you do is drill a 1/8" or 3/16" hole (depending on the size of the screw) and then the screw goes directly into the brick. These are called tapcon or tapcrete or somethign like that- I remember they are blue and Home Depot sells them- and they hold damn good!

I've had this tv for a week now and last night when i turned it on all of the channels have a greenish-yellowish tint, it looks really bad. i haven't changed any of the settings or touched the cables, so i don't know what could cause this. maybe the adelphia hd dvr?

I've had this tv for a week now and last night when i turned it on all of the channels have a greenish-yellowish tint, it looks really bad. i haven't changed any of the settings or touched the cables, so i don't know what could cause this. maybe the adelphia hd dvr?

Mine didn't display red color once. It turned out the red cable of component video
was loose.

Did you use component video inputs? Can you try other inputs?

only my 2 cents.

With all that said though, I'm actually encountering a problem that I need to consult with a local service rep to fix. Anyone else here occasionally have their TV go "black" but the green power light is still on? And then in about 5-7 seconds the video and audio resume. I've seen 2 others report the same problem on the 32" model. It doesnt happen to often, but seems to be increasing in frequency. Waiting for the service rep to get back to me, he's checking with Philips.

I've got the exact same problem. It was happening with my cable, then my cable card and now I switched to HD Sat it seems to happen more often. I've gone through two sets now and both have had the problem. As you state, it's not that often but often enough to be annoying. I'd be very interested in hearing what you find out about this problem.

I finally go my Philips mounted over the weekend. Here's a pic. Sorry for the poor quality but my digital camera has about had it. Still very happy with the TV. On friday I watched a Eric Clapton concert on PBS -HD and it was awesome. Sunday we had people over and they loved watching the Steeler game. Everyone commented how great the picture was - unfortunately the Steelers lost. Anyway enjoy.

is the philips in here the same as the 42PF7220A? or is there a difference since the numbers are slightly different?

is the philips in here the same as the 42PF7220A? or is there a difference since the numbers are slightly different?


I could be wrong but I believe they are the same model.

I finally go my Philips mounted over the weekend. Here's a pic. Sorry for the poor quality but my digital camera has about had it. Still very happy with the TV. On friday I watched a Eric Clapton concert on PBS -HD and it was awesome. Sunday we had people over and they loved watching the Steeler game. Everyone commented how great the picture was - unfortunately the Steelers lost. Anyway enjoy.

What mount did you use? I just bought my 7320 and need to do the same install you did. Thanks.

I could be wrong but I believe they are the same model.

Yes. I compared their specs. Only color is different.

http://www.p4c.philips.com/files/4/42pf7320a_37/42pf7320a_37_pss_aen.pdf

http://www.p4c.philips.com/na4/4/42pf7220a_37/42pf7220a_37_pss_aen.pdf

Unlike 7320a, 7220a does not have a production front page on philips web site.
It has only a support page.

is this worth the extra $300 over the maxent xm11?

Well, I picked the Philips up over the weekend, and wow. To answer my own question above, it is vastly superior to the old Viore I had. HD pictures are still incredible -- although even that is better on this one, as the Viore had color oversaturation that I couldn't tweak out -- but the best part are all the little features this one has. I don't have the problem I had with the VCR I mentioned above -- no maddening blue screen when FF and rewinding. The speakers are actually listenable. The built-in tuner is pretty sensitive. And maybe best of all, good old fashioned analog pictures are far superior, and even look great -- which is a big factor when you consider that the vast majority of broadcasts out there are still SD analog.

In fact, I hooked this up right before the NFL games on Sunday, and scanned for channels literally minutes before kickoff. I didn't even realize until halftime that the Fox I was watching was their regular OTA broadcast and not the digital. That's how good the picure looked! The automatic corrections that clean up incoming analog really work, and make a huge difference when watching "regular" programming.

I'm normally a cheapskate, and hesitated to spend even what the Viore cost because I'm not a huge TV junkie. But even I have to say that this TV is easily worth the few hundred dollars extra it cost, and a great deal for under 2k.

What mount did you use? I just bought my 7320 and need to do the same install you did. Thanks.

I put in the Omni U3Tilt Mount. I picked up at CC. Worked really well. You need to add one section of extension rods (which come with the mount). It actually was much easier to put up than I thought it would be. Are you drilling into brick or concrete? I had to go into brick. since I didn't have a hammer drill I just started out with smaller masonary bits and kept putting bigger ones in until I worked up to 1/2". Worked really well. Had the whole mount together and up in under an hour. Seems real solid - I actually hung from it before I mounted the tv.

I read somewhere that the 7320 doesn't have independent memory settings per input. it this true. also does it have discrete remote codes for on/off and input selection.

Anybody knows about RGB+H/V input on this plasma? Can we use VGA to RGB+H/V cable to input Computer signal to the plasma?

Anybody knows about RGB+H/V input on this plasma? Can we use VGA to RGB+H/V cable to input Computer signal to the plasma?

yes. if you look at the back of the panel it says you can connect a pc signal to the rgb (component) connector + 2 more (can't remember what they were for). you'll need a vga to 5 rca breakout cable.

Question to 42PF7320A owners.

Does anyone ever getting a buzzing sound from the back of the tv? It doesn't happen right when I turn it on and it doesn't happen everytime I use it. I'm not sure if I have a bad connection or something.

I have it connected to a TW HD box, Scientific Atlantic (I think), via component cables.

Any and all comments appreciated.

Ben

Question to 42PF7320A owners.

Does anyone ever getting a buzzing sound from the back of the tv? It doesn't happen right when I turn it on and it doesn't happen everytime I use it. I'm not sure if I have a bad connection or something.


Ben


Before I wall mounted it I did notice a very slight buzz when I was standing behind the tv. Nothing really significant though. I don't notice anything at all now that it's mounted.

Dave

Has anyone tweaked their picture settings using either a calibration disc or just to where they found they got the best picture? Anyone want to share their settings? Thank you.

Dave

Has anyone tweaked their picture settings using either a calibration disc or just to where they found they got the best picture? Anyone want to share their settings? Thank you.

Dave

I think 'Natural' is acceptable even though its contrast is too high. Skin colors are
good. Black is great.

Colors of 'Rich' are way too rich.

Has anyone been irritated or disappointed by the lack of an Electronic Program Guide for this set. :( EPG information is contained in the digital OTA signal and I can pick it up on the HD set top boxes for my other TVs. I believe that Phillips should be able to give a code upgrade to fix this.

So I finally got out the thumb drive and dabbled in XML programming with my Philips 42. You simply plug it in the side and voila! Has anyone else tried this. I was pretty impressed, it looped through a photo album and played a series of MP3's. Great for when the family comes over. Has anyone else tried this? I was thinking of getting some HD art photos and making a silent slideshow to leave on for ambiance (sp?). Anyone know what size jpeg would fill the screen completely?

I read somewhere that the 7320 doesn't have independent memory settings per input. it this true. also does it have discrete remote codes for on/off and input selection.

I bet you read from cnet review for 9630A.
:)

I think this is true as of latest firmware, 1.0.8. Contrast, brightness, color,
sharpness etc. are shared cross all TV channels and inputs.

Button of 'AV+' on the remote can rotate inputs in following order:
TV, AV1, AV2, AV3, HDMI1, HDMI2 and side inputs.
:mad:

-----------------------------
Edited on 12/12:

It does remember the screen format settings for each input.
For example: I set my DVD player (AV1) to 'Automatic' and VCR (AV2) to 4:3.

I bet you read from cnet review for 9630A.
:)

I think this is true as of latest firmware, 1.0.8. Contrast, brightness, color,
sharpness etc. are shared cross all TV channels and inputs.

Button of 'AV+' on the remote can rotate inputs in following order:
TV, AV1, AV2, AV3, HDMI1, HDMI2 and side inputs.
:mad:

Yes i probably read it at cnet though i'm not sure. Its a bummer if it doesn't have independent memory. However if it doesn't have discrete codes for input selection, that's a deal breaker. I have my universal remote programmed such that 1 button will set the tv to the right input and receiver to the right input. I can only do that with discrete codes. There's no way my wife and kids will be able to figure out how to use the satellite box + dvd player + htpc otherwise.

I am deciding between Pana PD50U and Philips 42PF7320A. Would appreciate reply to one question. I read this thread and spec sheet and could not find an answer.

Does 42PF7320A have banding or false contouring issues that are common to many plasma's? I know Panasonic has tried to reduce the issue by increasing numbers of color bits to 12 or number of color gradients to 2048 or 8.3 billion colors.

Does anyone know the spec for this TV
1) Numbers of colors? (Usually 16.X million for 256 bit color TV's and 8.X billion for 12 bit color TVS)
OR
2) Number of color gradients?
Appreciate the replies in advance.

hi guys, are u guys all from US? i'm from singapore. we do have this model here but it seems like the specs is quite different from those that u all mentions.. the model number we had here is 42PF7320 its only HD READY and not HDTV like yours and the PIP is also different. ours is Picture in graphics(tv shows in PC) it does not have any USB port for upgarding of software. the res is only 852x480 and u guys one are 1024x768?

as we do not have any Digital brocasting at this moment the pic for this set when connected to rooftop annaten is lousy but it totally becomes a very different when conected using HDMI dvd player. the selling price for this model is SG$3999 with choice of wall mounting or table top stand. u get both if u choose to wall mount it the first time and its done free by philips in sg

I went to buy the Costco one yesterday but none were available at local stores in Bay Area. I called all of the stores around here but none had it. I talked to the guy at the store I went to. He said it was very hot item. They were gone very fast when the shipment came.
I plan to use it mostly in my HTPC setup. I choose it since it has 2 HDMI inputs as well as RGBHV input. I have not seen a lot of experience with HTPC from you guy. Please share it if you have

Yeah, I noticed the price has gone up at least a couple of hundred bucks recently at Sam's. And they don't ever seem to have them in stock for the last couple of months - so I assumed the demand was high.

Has anyone who owns this TV game on it? I was reading on the 42PF9630A/37 one and heard some complaints on having some lag when playing games. That can be a deal breaker for me, because plan to use it for my xbox360.

Has anyone who owns this TV game on it? I was reading on the 42PF9630A/37 one and heard some complaints on having some lag when playing games. That can be a deal breaker for me, because plan to use it for my xbox360.

The 9630a has no lag whatsoever. Motion compenstaion is bulit in. :)

I am deciding between Pana PD50U and Philips 42PF7320A. Would appreciate reply to one question. I read this thread and spec sheet and could not find an answer.

Does 42PF7320A have banding or false contouring issues that are common to many plasma's? I know Panasonic has tried to reduce the issue by increasing numbers of color bits to 12 or number of color gradients to 2048 or 8.3 billion colors.

Does anyone know the spec for this TV
1) Numbers of colors? (Usually 16.X million for 256 bit color TV's and 8.X billion for 12 bit color TVS)
OR
2) Number of color gradients?
Appreciate the replies in advance.

Will appreciate reply from 42PF9630A owners if it has false contouring problems .. please reply.

Will appreciate reply from 42PF9630A owners if it has false contouring problems .. please reply.

If you read the thread for the 9630a you'll see alot of information on that plasma that may interest you. False contouring many times can be attributed to poor signal quality as well as poor mastering of DVD movies( all movies are not created equally). Its not always the panel thats the culprit. I'm using an HDMI to HDMI connection for the SA 8300HD DVR STB and Sony DVP NS90V DVD player. I see no false contouring even in dark dimly lit scenes. :)

Does anyone with this unit mind looking through the vents in the back to verify what the internals are? I have heard that Fujitsu supplies all the parts for Philips and Philips just makes the bezel and speakers. Just wanting to confirm this.

Does anyone with this unit mind looking through the vents in the back to verify what the internals are? I have heard that Fujitsu supplies all the parts for Philips and Philips just makes the bezel and speakers. Just wanting to confirm this.


Unfortunately mine is up on the wall so I can't look inside, however I thought the panel was made by LG. I could be wrong.

Dave

Does anyone with this unit mind looking through the vents in the back to verify what the internals are? I have heard that Fujitsu supplies all the parts for Philips and Philips just makes the bezel and speakers. Just wanting to confirm this.

First time I heard of that. Can you tell me where you got that information from about Fujitsu parts?

First time I heard of that. Can you tell me where you got that information from about Fujitsu parts?

Here you go.

http://www.*******************.com/plasmatvreviews/whomakeswhat.html

Here you go.

http://www.*******************.com/plasmatvreviews/whomakeswhat.html

Thanks for the link :) . Very interesting.

Yeah, that is one of the websites along with this one that helped me learn.

Does anyone with this unit mind looking through the vents in the back to verify what the internals are? I have heard that Fujitsu supplies all the parts for Philips and Philips just makes the bezel and speakers. Just wanting to confirm this.

It's neither LG nor Fujitsu. It's Samsung !

TV manufactured in Oct. 2005. Assembled in Mexico.

Panel: Samsung SDI Model: S42AX-YD01 Manufactured on: 2005-09-06 Made in Korea.

------- Added on 12/13 ----------
That tag could be seen from the vents at the top middle of the rear side.

I saw this set at CC and liked it a lot. Philips for some reason always have the best skin tones. Other units like the Sammy and Panny always seem to make skin tones look pinkish.

It's neither LG nor Fujitsu. It's Samsung !

TV manufactured in Oct. 2005. Assembled in Mexico.

Panel: Samsung SDI Model: S42AX-YD01 Manufactured on: 2005-09-06 Made in Korea.

Wow. Cool thanks!

Has anyone ordered thru costco online? How long did it take for you guys to recieve it?

I just ordered the 42PF9630A/37, I dont know if they'll send me the shipping date in email, I did not see anything in the order form.

For this model, s&h was included in the price, why is it only for this model, but not for other model (42PF7220A/37)?

Since most of the stores in SF bay area dont keep either of these models, I guess only option is to order online.

Anyone know if there is any store in SF bay area with7220A or 9630A?

Like any one else, once I decided to pull the trigger, I want this piece right now !! :)

Google search for S42AX-YD01 found only a few pages.
Following specs are from:
http://www.ecvv.com/ZH-CN/chance/viewinfo.asp?infoid=153808

Samsung's latest G5 panel has 175 degrees viewing angle and billions of colors.

Well, you got what you paid for. It seems that Philips does little development on this. You can find 15Wx2 speakers and cablecard from other Samsung HDTV models.

No wonder for the price drop.

PANEL S42AX-YD01
Product Name 42-inch Full Color Plasma Display Module3 (Abb: PDP Module3)
Type SAMSUNG 42 inches HD V4 Plasma TV panel
Size and Aspect Ratio 42'and 16:9
Interface LVDS (single pixel)
Resolution 1024 (H) x 768 (V) pixels (1 pixel=1R,G,B cells)
Pixel Pitch 0.912 (H) x 0.693 (V) mm (Typical)
Display Cell 3072 (H) x 768 cells (V)
Display Area 933.89 (Wide) x 532.24 (High) mm
Number of Colors 16.77 million colors with combination of 8 bits RGB digital data
Peak Brightness 1000 cd/m2 (NTSC) ?Typical
Contrast Ratio 10000:1 (Typical)
Viewing Angle 160 degrees greater

So what are we saying here? This Philips model has a Samsung panel that is not the latest generation? So what - is that a bad thing? Mine still looks great and was $xxx cheaper than the samsung EDTV model and $xxxx cheaper than the HDTV model. Were these panels known to be poor quality or something?? Thanks!

Dave

I wish I knew all these before my purchase. The TV is still very nice. I am not going
to return it.

The thing is that I might have gone with a Samsung if I knew Philips was using Samsung
panel.

Why you want to go with Samsung? Is it cheaper?

IMHO, if Philips is using Samsung panel and mother board of plasma TV and does very little
development (It is just like a middleman), maybe it makes more sense to go with Samsung directly.

The manufacture knows a lot more about their products than a copycat.

Besides, Samsung has 2 years warranty.

Just my $0.02

Not sure what your getting at? Did you honestly expect to get a 4000 dollar T.V. for under 2000 when you purchased this Plasma? Perhaps if you overpaid by alot I could see you having a reason to be dissatisfied however IMO and I have searched long and hard there is nothing close to the quality and features of this set for the price on the market. 2 HDMI Inputs, 2 Component inputs, Built in QAM tuner with PIP. The picture quality is as good as or better than most of the 2500-3000 dollar priced sets out there. The TV has some quirks for sure namely not having individual settings for each input and not displaying the volume on screen. I am very much willing to live with those 2 minor annoyances for 1000+ dollars in savings vs purchasing a Panny or a Pioneer.


Also I see nothing proving your G4 glass theory, However I hope you do realise that if you purchased a Samsung for anywhere close to the same pricepoint of this Philips that it would indeed have the same glass in it G4 or not.

P.S. You do realize that 95% of the plasmas out there have either Samsung, Panasonic or LG glass in them right?

I've had this TV for a few weeks now and I've noticed that it makes a clicking noise (the same as when the set is turned on with the remote) at around 8am every day. This display does not light up and the set makes another clicking noise about a minute later (as if to power down). Has anyone else noticed this? What exactly is it doing? (calling the mothership?) Everything else works perfectly and I've had no other problems with the set.

I've had this TV for a few weeks now and I've noticed that it makes a clicking noise (the same as when the set is turned on with the remote) at around 8am every day. This display does not light up and the set makes another clicking noise about a minute later (as if to power down). Has anyone else noticed this? What exactly is it doing? (calling the mothership?) Everything else works perfectly and I've had no other problems with the set.


I have noticed periodic clicking also, though not with the regularity that you describe. I haven't had any other issues so still observing if this is an isolated quirk.

Could this be an issue related to power surges? I am thinking of getting one of those Monster power "conditioners" anyway to see if it can improve some of the snow I get with certain channels. I'll let you know if it takes care of the clicking issue.

IMHO, if Philips is using Samsung panel and mother board of plasma TV and does very little
development (It is just like a middleman), maybe it makes more sense to go with Samsung directly.

The manufacture knows a lot more about their products than a copycat.

Besides, Samsung has 2 years warranty.

Just my $0.02

My $0.02
Philips has Pixel-plus processing, one of the very best available.
Samsung has (gulp) D-nile, one of the worst available.

I have noticed periodic clicking also, though not with the regularity that you describe. I haven't had any other issues so still observing if this is an isolated quirk.

Could this be an issue related to power surges? I am thinking of getting one of those Monster power "conditioners" anyway to see if it can improve some of the snow I get with certain channels. I'll let you know if it takes care of the clicking issue.

It may not occur with such regularity. The only time I'm normally in the TV room without the TV on is in the mornings around 8am. That's when I've heard it. It may happen at other times when I am not around.

So what are we saying here? This Philips model has a Samsung panel that is not the latest generation?


What I find a little odd is that the Philips sets failed Gary Merson's 1080i bob & weave tests but the Samsung's did not (see "Tested and Failed" in issue 64 of The Perfect Vision).

Robo

Using the same plasma glass is not the same as possessing the same chassis. Think of the glass as a picture tube. The Samsung and Philips employ different circuits for signal processng and other functions, they share the same"glass".

The Samsung deinterlaced 1080i, (prior to scaling to the TVs native resolution) the Philips did not, instead it processes 540 line fields "bobbing" from one to the next.
I hope that clears things up.

Gary

Well, well! A post from the man himself! ;)


Thanks for clearing that up, Gary. I guess it makes sense that the bobbing vs weaving would be more related to the processing than the panel.

So I had Dish HD installed this weekend. THe receiver is the 811 model with component and DVI output. A few things - I see virtually know difference between component and dvi. I'm using a Radio Shack DVI/HDMI Gold series cable. I have to admit, although the hd channels are nice, there's less WOW factor with them than I expected. THe best of them seem to be ESPNHD and DiscoveryHD, and that really depends on what they're broadcasting. I also think that the PBS HD I was getting over my antenna through coax looks better than any of the DISH HD programs. I have the DISH putting out 720p. Anyone else experience this? Could I have something set up wrong?

Standard digital programming is a mixed bag. Some of it looks really nice and some of it is almost unwatchable. I'm still seeing some false contouring with dimly let scenes. A lot less on HD channels but it's still there. Mainly on faces and background walls. It's like a red glowing clay was lightly smeared on the picture. Bright scenes are just fantastic though. I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks!

I've had this TV for a few weeks now and I've noticed that it makes a clicking noise (the same as when the set is turned on with the remote) at around 8am every day. This display does not light up and the set makes another clicking noise about a minute later (as if to power down). Has anyone else noticed this? What exactly is it doing? (calling the mothership?) Everything else works perfectly and I've had no other problems with the set.

I've had the TV for several months now and have the same thing going on. It's quite often, it does almost seem like it's upgrading or something....but from where??? Also, during the past couple of weeks the TV has been "turing off" on occasion. By turning off, I mean the picture goes black and the ambient lighting turns off. Then after a few seconds the picture comes back and the lighting turns back on. It seems like it could be an overload switch or something doing the clicking and turning the picture off and back on...just a thought.

Ah? So, what does this mean? The Philips is not really 1080i? I'm sorry, but I'm confused.

Robo

Using the same plasma glass is not the same as possessing the same chassis. Think of the glass as a picture tube. The Samsung and Philips employ different circuits for signal processng and other functions, they share the same"glass".

The Samsung deinterlaced 1080i, (prior to scaling to the TVs native resolution) the Philips did not, instead it processes 540 line fields "bobbing" from one to the next.
I hope that clears things up.

Gary


Sorry, please see my above post.

Ok, I need to update here. I started messing around with the satellite receiver and screwed something up. I called DISH and they essentially rebooted the box. I didn't have time to check anything out before the DISH came (as scheduled) to finish my install of the VOOM HD channels. After he was done I ran through all the HD channels and WOW. Much improved. The picture quality of the HD channels on the philips is great. I'm still running the receiver to the TV with Component cables. I'll re-try the DVI cable tonight. The picture quality is so good with the HD I almost hate watching any non-HD channel.

there is still some slight false contouring on some dimly lit scenes. It seems dependant on the quality of the broadcast though. I've noticed that the false contouring brings with it a lot of red. Could I turn down the red in the service menu? would this help the clayface issue?

I think the next step is to hook my attic antenna into the satellite receiver and program it with the OTA HD channels and then start shopping for an upconverting dvd player. God I love HD. Happy holidays.

Dave

So I had Dish HD installed this weekend. THe receiver is the 811 model with component and DVI output. A few things - I see virtually know difference between component and dvi. I'm using a Radio Shack DVI/HDMI Gold series cable. I have to admit, although the hd channels are nice, there's less WOW factor with them than I expected. THe best of them seem to be ESPNHD and DiscoveryHD, and that really depends on what they're broadcasting. I also think that the PBS HD I was getting over my antenna through coax looks better than any of the DISH HD programs. I have the DISH putting out 720p. Anyone else experience this? Could I have something set up wrong?

Standard digital programming is a mixed bag. Some of it looks really nice and some of it is almost unwatchable. I'm still seeing some false contouring with dimly let scenes. A lot less on HD channels but it's still there. Mainly on faces and background walls. It's like a red glowing clay was lightly smeared on the picture. Bright scenes are just fantastic though. I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks!

I read somewhere that the 7320 doesn't have independent memory settings per input. it this true. also does it have discrete remote codes for on/off and input selection.

Your information is correct. No independent memory settings for each input - very irritating.

This problem most likely could be fixed with a firmware upgrade.

I have owned this TV for about a month. I wanted an HDTV for a reasonable price, eventually this will move into another room, once I have a place that will accommodate a much larger TV. The technology keeps improving, so I felt that there was no need to spend an excessive amount for my first HDTV.

For the price I paid, I feel that I have an excellent value. My only real complaint, considering the price of this plasma, is the lack of the volume bar. Otherwise, I feel, I got a very good plasma for the price. OTA signals look outstanding, D*TV HD looks great, regular SDTV signals are a mixed bag, some look very good, others look horrid, but I believe that is not the fault of the TV, but rather the source.

Overall, I would buy this TV again. The Duel HDMI inputs was the deal maker.

So I'd like to connect my DISH Network HD811 receiver to the HDMI input on the TV. I have a dvi-hdmi cable from Radio Shack but I'm confused with the audio connection. The TV has a digital audio in connection but I believe it's an RCA plug connection, where the satellite receiver has an optical output connection. There are some RCA (left/right) audio outputs on the receiver but I don't know how these can be used either. Any way to make this work or am I out of luck and stuck with component cables?

Dave

I bought the 42PF7320A about a month ago. I have noticed in black scenes there is discoloration in the lower left coner and a little in the upper left corner where there is a very dark purple-ish color where the rest of the screen is black (for example with the credits at the end of a movie where the entire background is black). I cannot see any discoloration at all in light or medium color scenes. A few weeks ago when I turned on the tv there was a "burst" of black that started at the center and spread out to the edges of the screen; I turned off the tv and turned it back on and it was gone. This only happened once. Could this be burn in or is my tv defective?

I've had this TV for a few weeks now and I've noticed that it makes a clicking noise (the same as when the set is turned on with the remote) at around 8am every day. This display does not light up and the set makes another clicking noise about a minute later (as if to power down). Has anyone else noticed this? What exactly is it doing? (calling the mothership?) Everything else works perfectly and I've had no other problems with the set.

Calling the Mothership? Yes it actually does....well sorta...

Here's what the printed manual says - part# 3104 315 2470.1 (pg. 14 notes):

ATSC channel information is updated automatically when the TV is in standby (after 3 minutes AND every 3 hours thereafter)

The TV's standby power consumption is less than 1 watt while in standby. Which is not enough power to power the ATSC tuner, so the TV ATSC tuner section is turned on briefly to update the channel information. That's the clicking noise your hearing.

Cheers :)

Calling the Mothership? Yes it actually does....well sorta...

Here's what the printed manual says - part# 3104 315 2470.1 (pg. 14 notes):

ATSC channel information is updated automatically when the TV is in standby (after 3 minutes AND every 3 hours thereafter)

The TV's standby power consumption is less than 1 watt while in standby. Which is not enough power to power the ATSC tuner, so the TV ATSC tuner section is turned on briefly to update the channel information. That's the clicking noise your hearing.

Cheers :)


Good find! :)

Calling the Mothership? Yes it actually does....well sorta...

Here's what the printed manual says - part# 3104 315 2470.1 (pg. 14 notes):

ATSC channel information is updated automatically when the TV is in standby (after 3 minutes AND every 3 hours thereafter)

The TV's standby power consumption is less than 1 watt while in standby. Which is not enough power to power the ATSC tuner, so the TV ATSC tuner section is turned on briefly to update the channel information. That's the clicking noise your hearing.

Cheers :)

This is exactly what is happening to my 9630a model - I wrote a lot about it in the 42PF9630a thread and did some experiments with surge protectors.

It is a very plausible explanation, but it is happening only once a day, not every 3 hrs. In my case it was 7:43 a.m. and after some playing with 2 surge protectors - it did not do it with Monster stage 1 and switched to the ``new time'' 8:04 a.m. after I returned back to Belkin PF60 (after leaving TV without a power for about 14 hrs), which supposedly disconnects the power if it is ``dangerous.''

So , I am in the market to buy a Plasma. I ran across this Philip model which seems like a great price plus most retailers have it in store like Costco/Sam.

But I can't decide to purchase this unit or the new Panasonic 42 inch industrial unit, the 8th generation one.

I don't have a HDTV Sat Box right now, just have a Dish Network 522 DVR, where this TV will be is where the second coaxial is run straight in to the TV.

I have a Philips DVD player the divx one, i think model 642.

Plus, one sony PS2.

I need something that will work great for the above three.

I kind of bias towards panny since ive had their tvs before, but never a plasma.

So it seems like the same price range for this retail philips plasma and the industrial plasma.

any help would be appreciated. thanks.

So , I am in the market to buy a Plasma. I ran across this Philip model which seems like a great price plus most retailers have it in store like Costco/Sam.

But I can't decide to purchase this unit or the new Panasonic 42 inch industrial unit, the 8th generation one.

I don't have a HDTV Sat Box right now, just have a Dish Network 522 DVR, where this TV will be is where the second coaxial is run straight in to the TV.

I have a Philips DVD player the divx one, i think model 642.

Plus, one sony PS2.

I need something that will work great for the above three.

I kind of bias towards panny since ive had their tvs before, but never a plasma.

So it seems like the same price range for this retail philips plasma and the industrial plasma.

any help would be appreciated. thanks.

You may want to go to CC or BB and check each model out before purchasing. I like to test view Plasmas on Sunday because of football games.
Both Plasmas your thinking about will have the inputs you need NOW, but think about the future. Once you get a plasma, you'll want to upgrade your EchoStar 522 DVR to a Hi-def DVR.

The Philips 7320 has 2 HDMI inputs, which will come in real handy in the future.

Cheers

This is exactly what is happening to my 9630a model - I wrote a lot about it in the 42PF9630a thread and did some experiments with surge protectors.

It is a very plausible explanation, but it is happening only once a day, not every 3 hrs. In my case it was 7:43 a.m. and after some playing with 2 surge protectors - it did not do it with Monster stage 1 and switched to the ``new time'' 8:04 a.m. after I returned back to Belkin PF60 (after leaving TV without a power for about 14 hrs), which supposedly disconnects the power if it is ``dangerous.''

Ok, now why does the TV need to grab this ATSC information every 3 hours or even once a day? There is no program guide, but in the owners manual, they show a button on the remote as a "guide button", but it's not used. The actual remote has this key unlabeled or blank.

My guess is that the micro-processor used in this plasma was designed to have a program guide for ATSC, but has not been implemented yet. Future firmware upgrades may "activate" the ATSC guide for the Philips - - we can only hope!!

Also, if you have a Cable Card installed, the Plasma draws 15 watts when the TV is off. With no Cable Card, the TV draws 1 watt when powered off. This tells me that with Cable Card, the TV is constantly obtaining the program guide - just like a DTV or DishNetwork IRD does (even when the IRD is powered off).

If there is anyone using a Cable Card in the philips 7320 series plasma, does your TV make this clicking sound (which is a relay engaging and dis-engaging) every 3 hours or even once a day?

Happy New Years People

ok folks, i'm a little concerned about this plasma and the 9630a. i'm a little gun shy to say the least. it appears to me after reviewing both threads that this and the 9630a have problems that many are dealing with and in some cases accepting. i know that both units have great features price and all that good stuff. but what i'm hearing is that many are settling. i ordered mine from costco and it should be here next week. talking to some of our local big box retailers i'm hearing that the phillips is one of the bigest on the return list. not good when we spend $$$$$$. it would be nice to hear from those folks who have had a great experience with these sets.

ok folks, i'm a little concerned about this plasma and the 9630a. i'm a little gun shy to say the least. it appears to me after reviewing both threads that this and the 9630a have problems that many are dealing with and in some cases accepting. i know that both units have great features price and all that good stuff. but what i'm hearing is that many are settling. i ordered mine from costco and it should be here next week. talking to some of our local big box retailers i'm hearing that the phillips is one of the bigest on the return list. not good when we spend $$$$$$. it would be nice to hear from those folks who have had a great experience with these sets.

I believe that people are just sort of ``over-worried.'' In general, I believe that any device which has some software in it acts as a sort of ``AI'' or just has bugs, or reacts on non-laboratory conditions for which it was designed (like dirty power, overloading, pressing a wrong button. bad signal, ...). So, basically, any TV (plasma or not), a dvd-player, not to mention an HTPC and other things, they all have problems. Just look at the titles of the threads all over this forum.

Wow, I wonder where the information that Samsung makes the Philips panels cam from. LOL

God I LOVE internet forums, and their inside scoop having people.

I believe that people are just sort of ``over-worried.'' In general, I believe that any device which has some software in it acts as a sort of ``AI'' or just has bugs, or reacts on non-laboratory conditions for which it was designed (like dirty power, overloading, pressing a wrong button. bad signal, ...). So, basically, any TV (plasma or not), a dvd-player, not to mention an HTPC and other things, they all have problems. Just look at the titles of the threads all over this forum.
peace of mind here is buying a high ticket item from a retailer (costco) that will take anything back at anytime. no questions ask policy. i hope i don't need it.

peace of mind here is buying a high ticket item from a retailer (costco) that will take anything back at anytime. no questions ask policy. i hope i don't need it.

It's the best approach. I also purchased 4 extra years of warranty.

It is a big investment, and I like to like it in the first place. I mean, why should I buy a TV which I will hate every moment when it is on? Just because it does not break? It is not fun.

I own a 55" Philips RPTV for, maybe, 4 or 5 years and I admire every moment of it: just watched Mr. and MRs. Smith and a little bit of the bowl game. Never had a problem. So, it served its term already. Now I secretly want it to break, so I could buy a projector.

Today, I visited CC and BB, because I am looking for 23" or 26" LCD. And again, Philips is a clear winner for its PQ for me. I checked out the usual Sony, Panny, Samsung, Hitachi, Toshiba, LG, no brands ... I don't want to spend any money on them even if they will never break if I can have a Philips. Of course, different people have different ideas ... But I don't really think that the reliability is something which (a) is a huge issue (they all similar - like, say, cars: one - the winner -has 12 repairs per 100 cars, and the ``worst'' has 17?What? Is it supposed to be my concern???) and (b) whatever you purchased there is no guarantee it will not break down.

i'm curious though, is the 42PF7220A that Costco offers an online only item, or is it available for in-store pick-up?

from what i heard, it's last years model, but i couldn't find out the differences between it and the 42PF7320A online. anyone here know the differences?

also, i've heard that they have a lifetime return policy, but don't know the specifics of it. does that mean that if i keep the box that i can return it 2 years from now if i'm no longer satisfied with it? also, if for some reason the set starts to suffer from burn-in say a year or 2 from now, is it returnable?

and sorry about the costco releated questions, i'm not a member, but i would certianly consider becoming one if i could go into a store and pick up a 42PF7220A and be able to return it if i felt i made the wrong decision say six months or a year down the line!

i've heard so-so things about the 42PF7320A, but the 42PF7220A is over seven fifty less than the sale price of the 42PF7320A at CC. it can't be that bad, and i'm on a tight budget...

i'm curious though, is the 42PF7220A that Costco offers an online only item, or is it available for in-store pick-up?

from what i heard, it's last years model, but i couldn't find out the differences between it and the 42PF7320A online. anyone here know the differences?

also, i've heard that they have a lifetime return policy, but don't know the specifics of it. does that mean that if i keep the box that i can return it 2 years from now if i'm no longer satisfied with it? also, if for some reason the set starts to suffer from burn-in say a year or 2 from now, is it returnable?

and sorry about the costco releated questions, i'm not a member, but i would certianly consider becoming one if i could go into a store and pick up a 42PF7220A and be able to return it if i felt i made the wrong decision say six months or a year down the line!

i've heard so-so things about the 42PF7320A, but the 42PF7220A is over seven fifty less than the sale price of the 42PF7320A at CC. it can't be that bad, and i'm on a tight budget...
it appears that membership retail stores have the best return policy. if you use an american express card to make the purchase(all retailers) the card company will double the manufactures warranty. not a bad deal!!

i got my 3 weeks ago the set look great it exactly like 7320/37. PQ look great on both SD n HD plenty of input + ATSC tuner - cable card slot
the date on the back panel IS October 2005 Not sure that's date of manufacture .

About the costco return policy , u have nothing to worry about that. u can return it any time if not sastisfy, unless they change their policy. i use to have Maxent 42X3 for about 3 months , i hate the HDMI on Maxent , so i took it back and got the Philips

by the way. the 7220/37 use samsung Panel Make in Korea

Wow, I wonder where the information that Samsung makes the Philips panels cam from. LOL

God I LOVE internet forums, and their inside scoop having people.

PhilipsUser,

I posted it here two weeks ago. I used a flashlight and looked through vents at
top-back of this TV (7320A/37).

You can do the same thing from the showrooms of your local BB CC stores.
Maybe you can report your findings here.

PhilipsUser,

I posted it here two weeks ago. I used a flashlight and looked through vents at
top-back of this TV (7320A/37).

You can do the same thing from the showrooms of your local BB CC stores.
Maybe you can report your findings here.


Thats interesting. The plasma tv buyers guide says the parts are either fujitsu or hitachi. However with the LG/Philips partnership on technology I thought it was LG. Anyhow it doesnt really matter I love my picture quality. :)

Thats interesting. The plasma tv buyers guide says the parts are either fujitsu or hitachi. However with the LG/Philips partnership on technology I thought it was LG. Anyhow it doesnt really matter I love my picture quality. :)

That's surprised me too.
Casey,
You can check your 9630A if you are interested in this topic.

Everyone could do a quick check (if your plasma is not mounted on
the wall).

:)

What is the easiest wall mount to use. I have looked at Sanus' website and they say you need an adapter. Anyone hung one without having to buy anything extra.

Thanks

I used the Omni Tilt Mount from CC. Worked really nice. You have to use one set of extension rods (they come with it). Very solid mount and easy to do. Good luck.

Dave

I just bought the Philips 50PF7320A from BB, and the sales representative managed to convince me to buy (somewhat reluctantly) a Belkin PF30 power conditioner. The sales guy gave me a whole speal on how the tubes can fry with bad power. I'm usually pretty skeptical of trying to solve problems that I've never heard of, and I think power in my apartment is pretty good. But, given the cost of this TV, I figured it is better to be safe than sorry. I've heard of audiophiles who use this stuff, but wasn't sure whether it was really necessary for plasmas.

Do you think he just ripped me off? I also got the 4-year extended warranty on the plasma tv, so I figured I was protected even in the worst case scenario. However, I wanted to know what other people thought about these power conditioners. Is this really a problem for plasmas? Do most other people get this? Has anyone had a problem of the TV frying out because of bad power?

I'm grappling with whether to return the the PF30, or just consider it a good investment for an expensive TV and my future audio system (don't have a high-end audio system yet, but will probably get one in the future).

Which mount is the more preferred for mounting this set. I can find both for a similar price but am not sure I like the way the Sanus expands. Anyone with experience with these mounts please let me know which you prefer. Was the actual installation of the wall bracket and TV brackets fairly simple and straight forward?

:)

Thanks
Charles

Calling the Mothership? Yes it actually does....well sorta...

Here's what the printed manual says - part# 3104 315 2470.1 (pg. 14 notes):

ATSC channel information is updated automatically when the TV is in standby (after 3 minutes AND every 3 hours thereafter)

The TV's standby power consumption is less than 1 watt while in standby. Which is not enough power to power the ATSC tuner, so the TV ATSC tuner section is turned on briefly to update the channel information. That's the clicking noise your hearing.

Cheers :)

The manual seems to suggest this clicking behavior is normal, but I purchased this (http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=2813) thinking it might be power issue. Ever since I got it, no more "clicking.". I think some one else reported resolution of the clicking also with a Monster power conditioner.

As to the question about power conditioners, Audioholics (http://www.audioholics.com/showcase/systemguide/25KRecommendedhometheater2.php)
recommends this Tripp Lite surge suprressor/power conditioner for even their $25k system, over more expensive ones. These products seem susceptible to a lot of marketing and hence high prices. (I bought the HT10DBS at Staples.)

Just picked up my Philips 42 7220 from Costco yesterday. Returned my Maxent MX42X3 due to HDMI issues.
Quick question
Any 7220 owners out there can recommend athe best upconverting DVD player for this plasma.
I have a Momitsu that I use for my projector.
I have tested the Toshiba KD 7980 or 5980 (Costco)? something like that.
I am currently trying the Cyberhome DVD655 (walmart)
I was wondering about the Sammy HD850 as well. Oppo...
Any comments?

Just picked up my Philips 42 7220 from Costco yesterday. Returned my Maxent MX42X3 due to HDMI issues.
Quick question
Any 7220 owners out there can recommend athe best upconverting DVD player for this plasma.
I have a Momitsu that I use for my projector.
I have tested the Toshiba KD 7980 or 5980 (Costco)? something like that.
I am currently trying the Cyberhome DVD655 (walmart)
I was wondering about the Sammy HD850 as well. Oppo...
Any comments?

I had black crush problems with the HD841. So I got the Oppo and things have been great since then. Kept the HD841 connected for SACD.

anyone able to get a Philips 42PF7320A/37 to work with CableCard?

I'm a Comcast subscriber in San Jose, CA (95123) and getting ready for a third tech visit. They've been trying the Motorola version 04.05 card and have tried three different cards so far. The techs seem to think it's an issue with configuration at the headend.

The symptoms:

--card is inserted.
--message on display: cable card is detected
--message on display: cable card is initialized. TV is switched to tune cablecard based favorite channel list.
--Once the channel is changed from the one it was set to before installation, screen goes dark. No channels appear in the channel list. Must remove cablecard to tune in any channels.

They've loaned me a set top box, but it frequently locks up & crashes. I'd rather not have another device to control with remote. The STB window boxes some channels, so there's a burn in concern. Finally, I've read that picture quality is better with cablecard.

The last tech that was out mentioned there are some newer cablecards that work better (they've been using red labelled Motorola cards, he said the newer ones are white with blue).

Anyone have any experience troubleshooting this issue with this particular TV and cablecard combination?

If you have contact info for techs, managers or engineers that might be able to help resolve or escalate appropriately, please send in a private message.

Thanks for any info you can provide!

The manual seems to suggest this clicking behavior is normal, but I purchased this (http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=2813) thinking it might be power issue. Ever since I got it, no more "clicking.". I think some one else reported resolution of the clicking also with a Monster power conditioner.


Each time I disconnect the power it starts clicking at different time (in my case it was: 7:42am, 8:03am, and now at 6.52am). So, it still can click, say, at 4a.m., and you may not notice it.

Each time I disconnect the power it starts clicking at different time (in my case it was: 7:42am, 8:03am, and now at 6.52am). So, it still can click, say, at 4a.m., and you may not notice it.

This is true. But before I had the surge suppressor, the clicking would occur a handful of times throught out the day. And now no clicks during the day. Is there any explanation for this behavior???

This is true. But before I had the surge suppressor, the clicking would occur a handful of times throught out the day. And now no clicks during the day. Is there any explanation for this behavior???

It seems unlikely that we have different problems and therefore, as strange as it may sound, maybe, it is normal? (Because, other than this ``inconvenience', nothing appears wrong at the moment) I also use PureAv PF60 surge protector and have this problem, seems once a day at exactly the same time. Hence, there is some timer involved. My surge protector (as, probably, any other) does not have any clock. Since the time of this event is changing and this change is linked to my activity (disconnecting TV) , it is not external, apparently.

Thus, the remaining option is the TV doing something and this explanation related to the TV updating something seems most probable, at the moment.
Maybe, the TV has some internal timer (in my TV the clock is not engaged - it is not connected by the cable ... to any station which normally provides the time information).

I also have some suspicion that it might be because I had the cablecard before, and it could trigger something which did not stop after I got rid of it. I did not notice any clicks when I had the cablecard.

My RPTV is also disconnected from the cable, but it is running continuously the Guide and is seaching for stations all the time. (The plasma does not consume any power when it is in stand-by, but then it clicks once a day when in this mode.)

I am having trouble updating my firmware for this TV. I download the file, extract the autorun file and move it (copy it) to a jump drive. The file shows up on the drive when I look at the files on it. But when I put it in the TV, nothing happens. It does not automatically go to the update screen. So when I go to this screen manually and try to do an upgrade, it says that nothing was found on the device. What am I doing wrong? Could it be that I am running the latest version? If so, I thought it is supposed to tell me that a the version I am trying to install is not the most up-to-date, etc. But It does not even act like there is info on the drive.

Help.

Also, I bought a relatively inexpensive HDMI cable and it works. But there have been occasions, (especially when I have done something out of the ordinary such as change learned functions on a remote, change inputs, etc) that I get a message that says: DVI Alert. Your HDTV does not support HDCP. Please disconnect the HDMI connector and use the YPrPb connection to continue to watch TV. What is that? I am able to get it to display the picture properly after a few channel changes or input changes and then back to the HDMI input setting....and it works fine after that. Has anyone seen this message? What does this mean? Could it be that the TV is not receiving a good signal through the cable? I know the TV supports HDCP (as the manual says it does). So I am confused why this would happen.

I had black crush problems with the HD841. So I got the Oppo and things have been great since then. Kept the HD841 connected for SACD.
Thanks, I'll look into the Oppo. I thought I heard that the HD850 corrected for the black crush.

I am having trouble updating my firmware for this TV. I download the file, extract the autorun file and move it (copy it) to a jump drive. The file shows up on the drive when I look at the files on it. But when I put it in the TV, nothing happens. It does not automatically go to the update screen. So when I go to this screen manually and try to do an upgrade, it says that nothing was found on the device. What am I doing wrong? Could it be that I am running the latest version? If so, I thought it is supposed to tell me that a the version I am trying to install is not the most up-to-date, etc. But It does not even act like there is info on the drive.

Help.

Also, I bought a relatively inexpensive HDMI cable and it works. But there have been occasions, (especially when I have done something out of the ordinary such as change learned functions on a remote, change inputs, etc) that I get a message that says: DVI Alert. Your HDTV does not support HDCP. Please disconnect the HDMI connector and use the YPrPb connection to continue to watch TV. What is that? I am able to get it to display the picture properly after a few channel changes or input changes and then back to the HDMI input setting....and it works fine after that. Has anyone seen this message? What does this mean? Could it be that the TV is not receiving a good signal through the cable? I know the TV supports HDCP (as the manual says it does). So I am confused why this would happen.

Turn TV off, then insert USB jumpdrive, then MANUALLY turn TV on. It should automatically start the upgrade. After TV is done doing the upgrade, MANUALLY turn the TV off - DO NOT USE REMOTE to turn TV off (press the power button on the side). Now the TV is upgraded, and use the remote and watch TV!

Hope this helps upgrade your new Plasma!

I am having trouble updating my firmware for this TV. I download the file, extract the autorun file and move it (copy it) to a jump drive. The file shows up on the drive when I look at the files on it. But when I put it in the TV, nothing happens. It does not automatically go to the update screen. So when I go to this screen manually and try to do an upgrade, it says that nothing was found on the device. What am I doing wrong? Could it be that I am running the latest version? If so, I thought it is supposed to tell me that a the version I am trying to install is not the most up-to-date, etc. But It does not even act like there is info on the drive.



I bet you are using a pretty large jump drive, which has been formatted to either
FAT32 or NTFS.

:)

Make sure it's FAT. On your PC, plug it in to your USB port, right click on the drive
letter from Windows Explorer. Select Format and then select FAT .

Now, copy the autorun file to it and try again.

Please see my previous post for more details.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6622401&&#post6622401

Bought mine the first week of December and have it hooked up to Comcast Digital Cable. We live in an area that is digital simulcast and like our old DirecTV box, all channels are digital. It's hooked up to a Motorola 3412 via HDMI and volume is controlled by our home theater box.

No complaints here and it's been a great uint for us. HDTV (outputted at 1080i), look fantastic and SD Channels look good to very good, but that was the same on our previous 32" SDTV. I was choosing between the 50" Vizio or this unit at Costco. The Pio at Costco wasn't in the running - the PQ was very uninspiring. I picked this because of the 2x HDMI and the Philips name, not to mention the $500 savings over the Vizio. If anything goes wrong, I'll have a greater chance finding someone (and parts) for a Philips over a Vizio.

That being said, I'd buy this set all over again. It has a great picture, great features, and a great price. No settling here - just a very good TV at a very good price.

The only "complaint" I have is that I had to do a lot of tweaking with my Harmony remote to control this set. The codes Harmony had for the set were just wrong on many accounts. 1 hour with the Philips remote and the Harmony and I have it all programmed in.

What is the easiest wall mount to use. I have looked at Sanus' website and they say you need an adapter. Anyone hung one without having to buy anything extra.
Started with a Sanus VMPL that I picked up at Target when I bought the TV at Costco (same shopping mall). Got home and realized I needed to go across 3 studs to have it in the center of the wall. So, I mail ordered the VMPL3 and it works without adapters. The onlly adapter I used was the VESA studs that came in the Philips box. That's because I have the Component video hooked up on the back so I needed the extra room to not pinch cables.

The Sanus was easy to install - bolt to TV, 6 screws into studs (make sure it's level), hang TV on it and tighten safety bolt. Done.

I recently purchased the Phillips 42 inch plasma at CC. I also purchased the Omnimount U3 Fixed mount bracket which is suppose to fit. I'm confused since the Phillips instructions show large bolts indicated as spacers and the Omnimount instructions show small bolts which fit the threads that the mounting stand which comes with the TV is attached to. If I remove the plastic mounts I could fit the Omnimount on those threads. However, it seems to me I should be mounting this on the larger bolts that Phillips indicates as spacers.. Any help would be great...Thanks.

Use the Philips instructions and the spacers. The small bolts are only for the stand as they don't have to support the 100+ lbs weight of the plasma (that's the stand's job). You want to mount to the 4 large diameter bolts near the edge of the display where the Philips instructions tell you to.

You don't want to chance it with 100+ lbs hanging from the wall - use the big bolts and be safe! :) Make sure you hit studs and you will be fine - I (6"2', 275) hung off my mount (280lb capacity) to make sure it was safe before mounting the TV. The wife was nervous I'd bring the wall down, but it held without a peep. :)

7320 PIP

The Philips brochure says HDMI-Component PIP, but the owners manual does not mention component in the PIP section. Are there any owners out there that can confirm that Component is PIP-able? How about the RGB Input?

Has anyone else (other than the two previous posters) experience the sudden picture going blank for a few seconds? It has happened to me twice now (over 1 week) while watching cable (TWC). Since I have a DVR, I backed up the show to see if there was a signal loss to the cable box and there wasn't (the plasma did not power off at these times...just the screen going blank). I am curious if it is a cable issue or tv issue. Any ideas?

I also have some loss of image with the SDT channels sometimes. they are similar to the sound drop outs. The screen goes black or snowy (of green or red color) and I have to switch to any HD channel to recover the connection and then can go back. Did anyone notice anything like that? I have a motorola STB and an HDMI-to-dvi cable. When the screen is black, the TV says at the moment of loss that there is no signal. Then the STB shows (when I switch to the hdtv channel that it recovers the dvi connection). It is sort of similar to this re-boot problem in stand by, except that I continuously have the green light on, showing that the TV is on all the time. I rather blame the STB or the cable (the latter is not likely though).

I also found on this forum that people had these reboot problems in stand-by mode, at exactly the same time with other gear, such as Sony's hdr. Then Sony made an announcement that they were upgrading software via the cable which could cause this problem. However, in my case I don't have the cable connection, only an HDMI. On the other hand, the STB identifies it even if they both, the TV and the box are in the stand-by mode. That is, maybe, some cable information is passed via an HDMI connection as it does via the coaxial cable connection?

I finally got the service manual and studied the section about the error diagnostics - there is nothing about this problem there. Thus, the chances that a regular tech can help are slim or it is not a TV problem at all. Maybe, some other firmware upgrade is needed?

I'm having a similar problem. Once in a while, maybe every few days, the screen will go black for a 4-5 seconds then come back. It's happened with both my cable (hdmi) input and also my playstation 2 into AV1 so I don't think it's an input problem. I don't lose sound during these episodes. I'm not really sure what to do about it. Has anyone attempted to get it repaired? I'd really hate to have to bring it in somewhere and lose the use of my TV.

Other than this, I love the TV.

I'm having a similar problem. Once in a while, maybe every few days, the screen will go black for a 4-5 seconds then come back. It's happened with both my cable (hdmi) input and also my playstation 2 into AV1 so I don't think it's an input problem. I don't lose sound during these episodes. I'm not really sure what to do about it. Has anyone attempted to get it repaired? I'd really hate to have to bring it in somewhere and lose the use of my TV.

Other than this, I love the TV.

It can be an hdmi connector compatibility problem. Philips was upgrading the firmware to improve it, but it mightbe just not enough. I have the latest version. downloaded from there webpage.

I contacted Philips today about the blank screen problem and they were no help. They said I needed the latest firmware update which I have. They then told me that I could take it in and have it looked at/repaired. Not doing that. If anything, I would take it back for a new tv, but at this point I am going to wait it out and see if anyone learns anything else. since several of us are having the same issue, I feel that it is not the particular tv (my tv only), but an issue with the model/brand. I have hopes that they fix this in the next firmware update. Perhaps if enough people complain, they will realize it is an issue.

On another note (and maybe I am just getting picky now as I am worried about any detail), has anyone noticed the video being ever so slightly behind the audio on occasion? I have notice that the audio and video seem out of sync every now and then. It usually is very minor, but noticed. I am wondering if that has always happened and I never noticed it before due to PQ, but wondering if anyone else has seen it.

I contacted Philips today about the blank screen problem and they were no help. They said I needed the latest firmware update which I have. They then told me that I could take it in and have it looked at/repaired. Not doing that. If anything, I would take it back for a new tv, but at this point I am going to wait it out and see if anyone learns anything else. since several of us are having the same issue, I feel that it is not the particular tv (my tv only), but an issue with the model/brand. I have hopes that they fix this in the next firmware update. Perhaps if enough people complain, they will realize it is an issue.

On another note (and maybe I am just getting picky now as I am worried about any detail), has anyone noticed the video being ever so slightly behind the audio on occasion? I have notice that the audio and video seem out of sync every now and then. It usually is very minor, but noticed. I am wondering if that has always happened and I never noticed it before due to PQ, but wondering if anyone else has seen it.

I think you might have a handshake problem. This can happen especially using HDMI and DVI cabling. Some on this forum have reported that it can be eliminated by turning on specific devices in a particular order. For instance it has been reported that by turning on the STB first then the panel the handshake can be made and intermitent screen flashes or blank screen are all but eliminated. :)

Has anyone else (other than the two previous posters) experience the sudden picture going blank for a few seconds? It has happened to me twice now (over 1 week) while watching cable (TWC). Since I have a DVR, I backed up the show to see if there was a signal loss to the cable box and there wasn't (the plasma did not power off at these times...just the screen going blank). I am curious if it is a cable issue or tv issue. Any ideas?

Yes. Same problem with the picture going blank and then coming back on. It sure scared me the first time it happened. I have owned the TV for 3 or 4 months now and have seen this happen maybe 6 or 7 times but it doesn't worry me as much as it used to. Well, as long as it doesn't become more frequent I won't worry any more.

Latest firmware installed.

anyone able to get a Philips 42PF7320A/37 to work with CableCard?

I'm a Comcast subscriber in San Jose, CA (95123) and getting ready for a third tech visit. They've been trying the Motorola version 04.05 card and have tried three different cards so far. The techs seem to think it's an issue with configuration at the headend.

The symptoms:

--card is inserted.
--message on display: cable card is detected
--message on display: cable card is initialized. TV is switched to tune cablecard based favorite channel list.
--Once the channel is changed from the one it was set to before installation, screen goes dark. No channels appear in the channel list. Must remove cablecard to tune in any channels.

They've loaned me a set top box, but it frequently locks up & crashes. I'd rather not have another device to control with remote. The STB window boxes some channels, so there's a burn in concern. Finally, I've read that picture quality is better with cablecard.

The last tech that was out mentioned there are some newer cablecards that work better (they've been using red labelled Motorola cards, he said the newer ones are white with blue).

Anyone have any experience troubleshooting this issue with this particular TV and cablecard combination?

If you have contact info for techs, managers or engineers that might be able to help resolve or escalate appropriately, please send in a private message.

Thanks for any info you can provide!

I also have problems using the CableCard with TWC (Houston). It does the exact same thing when I plug in the card (same error messages too). No signals come through at all until I unplug the card. The card we have is like purple and white (not too sure what version). We have to drive back to the TWC store and get another one (actually we're going to pick up two) so we can test it again.

I was trying to post the URL of the thread where I talked about my problem, but this forum restricts URL and IMGs until after the 5th post.

BTW, I called the Philips tech support concerning the problem and the tech support guy knew less than I did! AND he was too lazy to look things up, like how to check the current firmware I have installed (which I figured out anyways.)

Here is the thread where I posted about my problem. (sorry about the triple post!)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=383882&page=40&pp=30

I posted a while ago about my screen going black and here's an update (not a very hopeful one though).

Summary of problem: Watching DVD or Cable or PS2 and the TV essentially shuts off and turns itself back on, causing a 5-10 second gap in video/audio of the program playing (input source is not affected at all). Can't be sure the TV actually "shuts off" since the green power light never goes out, but it is the best description of the problem I can give.

About 3 weeks ago I had an Authorized Service Rep come to my house to look at my TV (waste of time). Obviously since this is an intermittent problem, I could not have it repeat while he was observing. The ASR was going to contact Philips to see if they had a solution, but I haven't heard back (I will be calling again soon).

I've had this TV for 2 months. The frequency of occurrences has been increasing, sometimes going black and then coming back on and going black again a few seconds later.

I've determined this problem occurs while watching an input source via HDMI or Component or Composite. (have not verified coaxial, since I do not use this). I use a Monster surge protector and have connected the TV to the surge protector or the wall directly and the problem has occurred on both. (was trying to test if it was somehow an interruption in power supply).

Unfortunately for me I got this from Circuit City and don't think their return policy is as liberal as Costco or Sam's, so I feel slightly stuck at this point. I'm hoping Philips comes through with a solution and I will post any future updates on here. Other than this problem, I love the TV, especially for the price.

Just picked up my Philips 42 7220 from Costco yesterday. Returned my Maxent MX42X3 due to HDMI issues.
Quick question
Any 7220 owners out there can recommend athe best upconverting DVD player for this plasma.
I have a Momitsu that I use for my projector.
I have tested the Toshiba KD 7980 or 5980 (Costco)? something like that.
I am currently trying the Cyberhome DVD655 (walmart)
I was wondering about the Sammy HD850 as well. Oppo...
Any comments?

Hey truthonly03:
I'm considering doing exactly what you did. Been happy with the Maxent but saw the Phillips yesterday at costco. Did you return the Maxent because of red push on HDMI? I did some tweaking and it was a little better but still annoying. Now after 6 months, my HDMI isn't working at all. Could be my cable box but with the other HDMI issues on the Maxent, I think I'll box it back up.....

Screen going blank and sound disappears for 5 to 10 seconds.

I too have experienced its occurrence in my unit. I bought my first unit in early December from Circuit City and had to return and exchange it when I observed this intermittent going blank problem. At first, I thought I bought a defective unit. The replacement unit does the same. Many are reporting the same observation in this forum. I am inclined to think that this occurrence is a problem inherent in this particular brand and model (42pf7320a/37). Does this happen on the 630 model?. Could be a firmware problem.

I emailed Philips customer support about it twice already but have yet to hear back from them. If they get enough feedback (phone or email) from customers about this problem, they'll solve this problem with urgency.

p.s. this going blank problem seem to occur when we are watching DVD movies rich in special effects (Star Wars III, Polar Express - I've had to watch the Polar Express numerous times to try to figure what was triggering it. It happened once each time the movie was played but at different parts of the movie - usually towards the end. We watched Star Wars once, it happened within the first 30 minutes of the movie). My untrained guess is that the unit "shuts off" when it does not get A/V signal from the recorder or set top box fast enough.

Hey truthonly03:
I'm considering doing exactly what you did. Been happy with the Maxent but saw the Phillips yesterday at costco. Did you return the Maxent because of red push on HDMI? I did some tweaking and it was a little better but still annoying. Now after 6 months, my HDMI isn't working at all. Could be my cable box but with the other HDMI issues on the Maxent, I think I'll box it back up.....

Yes, I returned the Maxent due to the HDMI red push, except mine was beyond a push, the entire screen was red and every image was distorted as if you were getting an illegal cable box channel (except it was a DVD).
Costco is awesome, I didn't have the box, manuals, etc (threw it out a week before, after keeping it for 3months), but had the remote, cables and the stand. They looked up my card, gave me either 1) store credit or 2) chargeback on my credit card. I walked right in and picked up the Philips. Been happy with the Philips so far, I'm testing out some Lord of the Rings movies II & III to see how it deals with darks, blacks, and bright whites. So far, it looks awesome. There are some quirky things with the Philips, like one setting for all inputs (I have not found this to be annoying. I also notice a thin green line on the right when I use 1080i from my upconverting DVD player (fine on 720p). Could be the DVD player or the compression (Philips is 1024X768). Also, no visual volume number when you change the volume. But it has pluses, 2 HDMI inputs, side inputs including a USB input for firmware as well as playing mp3 or watching jpegs, photos etc.
As much as everyone loves the Pioneer, and the Panny, I actually prefer the Philips.
Good luck!

Thanks for the reply. I still have the box and all but now I have to wait a few days until Costco gets more of the Phillips in. Are you using the cable card feature? I have Comcast, called them and they said it should work fine, they also told me that they don't charge additional for the card like they do for extra stb. Now I'll be able to move the stb back to my "old" panny rear projection HD in the basement!

<snip>
There are some quirky things with the Philips, like one setting for all inputs (I have not found this to be annoying. I also notice a thin green line on the right when I use 1080i from my upconverting DVD player (fine on 720p). Could be the DVD player or the compression (Philips is 1024X768).

I have the 9630A and noticed the same thing, after bringing up that in 9630A thread, people suggested to use teh cursor key on remote to adjust the screen to little right and the greenline disappeared.

I recently purchased the Phillips 42 inch plasma at CC. I also purchased the Omnimount U3 Fixed mount bracket which is suppose to fit. I'm confused since the Phillips instructions show large bolts indicated as spacers and the Omnimount instructions show small bolts which fit the threads that the mounting stand which comes with the TV is attached to. If I remove the plastic mounts I could fit the Omnimount on those threads. However, it seems to me I should be mounting this on the larger bolts that Phillips indicates as spacers.. Any help would be great...Thanks.
I had the same dilemma when I purchased a universal mount from Costco for my 42" Philips (cost $135). The brackets were not wide enough to reach the Philips large screw slots (spacers per Philips manual). I did not want to risk using the smaller screws (used by the stand) so I called the manufacturer of the wall mount (Sanus). Turns out, there's an adapter bracket (cost $30 including S&H) that should be used with the Sanus universal wall mount hardware if it's to be used for mounting a 42" Philips TV. You may want to contact the manufacturer of Omnimount and speak with a sales rep. Hope this helps.

Yes, I returned the Maxent due to the HDMI red push, except mine was beyond a push, the entire screen was red and every image was distorted as if you were getting an illegal cable box channel (except it was a DVD).
Costco is awesome, I didn't have the box, manuals, etc (threw it out a week before, after keeping it for 3months), but had the remote, cables and the stand. They looked up my card, gave me either 1) store credit or 2) chargeback on my credit card. I walked right in and picked up the Philips. Been happy with the Philips so far, I'm testing out some Lord of the Rings movies II & III to see how it deals with darks, blacks, and bright whites. So far, it looks awesome. There are some quirky things with the Philips, like one setting for all inputs (I have not found this to be annoying. I also notice a thin green line on the right when I use 1080i from my upconverting DVD player (fine on 720p). Could be the DVD player or the compression (Philips is 1024X768). Also, no visual volume number when you change the volume. But it has pluses, 2 HDMI inputs, side inputs including a USB input for firmware as well as playing mp3 or watching jpegs, photos etc.
As much as everyone loves the Pioneer, and the Panny, I actually prefer the Philips.
Good luck!regarding the green line problem. on your remote move the right or left arrow to center the picture. that will correct the problem.l

I'm trying to reduce the number of cable I have running to my Philips 7320. Currently I have coax running to it (through my vcr) from the OTA antenna in my attic, component video from a samsung progressive dvd player/receiver, and component video/composite audio from a Dish 811 receiver.

The first thing I'm working on is going with DVI/digital audio from the 811 (cables are being shipped now) and removing the component/composite cables. Next is the coax, I know I can take the coax from the TV and connect it to the 811, scan for digital, and then display local hdtv channels through the 811 receiver.

My question is can I connect my dvd receiver and vcr to the composite inputs of the 811 and send them to the TV with through the DVI cable? Will the signals be upconverted to 1080i? Thank you for the help!

Dave

I also have problems using the CableCard with TWC (Houston). It does the exact same thing when I plug in the card (same error messages too). No signals come through at all until I unplug the card. The card we have is like purple and white (not too sure what version). We have to drive back to the TWC store and get another one (actually we're going to pick up two) so we can test it again.
Better pick up 19 or so and be glad that your cable provider lets you do self install. Comcast does not, so a tech has to come out each time. Anyway, I called Philips tech support with the Comcast tech on hand and after a bit of holding, Philips said that there are compatibility issues with the Motorola cards. The only thing you can do is try several of them, some customers have gone through up to 20 before finding one that will work. Supposedly the Scientific-Atlanta cards work better, but the only ones available locally are Motorola so the tech said he would try to get more and set up a time to come out next week. Btw, during the call with Philips, they said you don't have to do a channel autoscan after plugging in the card. The manual says otherwise.

Thanks for the reply. I still have the box and all but now I have to wait a few days until Costco gets more of the Phillips in. Are you using the cable card feature? I have Comcast, called them and they said it should work fine, they also told me that they don't charge additional for the card like they do for extra stb. Now I'll be able to move the stb back to my "old" panny rear projection HD in the basement!

Yea, Costco's Philips supply was thin when I picked it up. They were having a sale.
I am actually not using the cable card feature since I have Direct TV (satelite). I will eventually get Comcast HD as well, and use that feature. Right now, my Direct TV HD runs to my projector and not my Philips.

I have the 9630A and noticed the same thing, after bringing up that in 9630A thread, people suggested to use teh cursor key on remote to adjust the screen to little right and the greenline disappeared.

Thanks, I'll try that!

regarding the green line problem. on your remote move the right or left arrow to center the picture. that will correct the problem.l

Thanks, I'm going to try that.

I purchased this unit, mainly because of price, and had it delivered to me a week ago. I will skip the good parts and go strait to the problems that I am having.

1. My TV's digital audio out was defective. Any sound that comes out from digital coaxial output was choppy and distorted. Manual says that some copy righted material may not be Called in to Philips support, was determined that the unit needed a repair. That was fine.

2. So, I bypassed the TV and connected coaxial audio out directly to home theater. When I was watching the TV or movie, I noticed that the sound from the unit and the sound from home theater system didn't match... It is less than a half second but quite annoying to me. Why does this happen?

3. I plugged in PS2 and played few games, and discovered that I was unable to play any games. What I see on the screen did not match with what I intend to do with my controller. I believe this is the so called up-converting delay issue, even with games in 480P mode... Also, tried PS2's digital optical out to home theater and compared the sound from the TV. The delay was also noticed.

I played with all settings but this delay never disappeared. It seems that Philips has decided to insert a fixed amount of delay for any input that requires up-converting to secure enough processing time. In order to synchronize the processed image with sound, they also decided to delay the same amount of delay for sound.

You should be able to notice this when you play game with older consoles, or compare the sound from the TV and bypassed speakers. Now, the strange thing is that no one else mentioned about this issue in this thread. I don't believe this is an isolated case for me, or my home theater related issue. Can anyone comment on my problems? Am I just an idiot or crazy?

I purchased this unit, mainly because of price, and had it delivered to me a week ago. I will skip the good parts and go strait to the problems that I am having.

1. My TV's digital audio out was defective. Any sound that comes out from digital coaxial output was choppy and distorted. Manual says that some copy righted material may not be Called in to Philips support, was determined that the unit needed a repair. That was fine.

2. So, I bypassed the TV and connected coaxial audio out directly to home theater. When I was watching the TV or movie, I noticed that the sound from the unit and the sound from home theater system didn't match... It is less than a half second but quite annoying to me. Why does this happen?

3. I plugged in PS2 and played few games, and discovered that I was unable to play any games. What I see on the screen did not match with what I intend to do with my controller. I believe this is the so called up-converting delay issue, even with games in 480P mode... Also, tried PS2's digital optical out to home theater and compared the sound from the TV. The delay was also noticed.

I played with all settings but this delay never disappeared. It seems that Philips has decided to insert a fixed amount of delay for any input that requires up-converting to secure enough processing time. In order to synchronize the processed image with sound, they also decided to delay the same amount of delay for sound.

You should be able to notice this when you play game with older consoles, or compare the sound from the TV and bypassed speakers. Now, the strange thing is that no one else mentioned about this issue in this thread. I don't believe this is an isolated case for me, or my home theater related issue. Can anyone comment on my problems? Am I just an idiot or crazy?

First and formost, make sure your firmware is up to date. That was the first thing I did when I got my set a month ago. From what I can tell, there have been two production runs of the 7320 plasma - one in July, other in October. Both runs contain older firmware and needs to be upgraded.

I have not noticed any delay playing Xbox using the HDTV cables. Tried the Microsoft HD cable and the Monster HD cable - no difference. I had a few gaming gurus come over the other day, and we all played Xbox, and they never mentioned any delay.

I contacted Philips today about the blank screen problem and they were no help. They said I needed the latest firmware update which I have. They then told me that I could take it in and have it looked at/repaired. Not doing that. If anything, I would take it back for a new tv, but at this point I am going to wait it out and see if anyone learns anything else. since several of us are having the same issue, I feel that it is not the particular tv (my tv only), but an issue with the model/brand. I have hopes that they fix this in the next firmware update. Perhaps if enough people complain, they will realize it is an issue.

On another note (and maybe I am just getting picky now as I am worried about any detail), has anyone noticed the video being ever so slightly behind the audio on occasion? I have notice that the audio and video seem out of sync every now and then. It usually is very minor, but noticed. I am wondering if that has always happened and I never noticed it before due to PQ, but wondering if anyone else has seen it.

I do notice DishNetwork's local Chicago channels have a bit of lip-sync issue, but all their other channels are right on sync with audio.

Picked mine up from Costco this past week (Samsung internals). During the First few days I had some concerns. I was seeing horrible issues such as "clay faces" during daylight scenes and snow/sparkling in bright reds. Hung it up today with a fresh coax cable and now everything looks fantastic. (Peerless ST650 mount) Must have been a bad connection.

I don't have any external sources to check for synch yet, but I do have Cablevision coming this week for a cablecard install. We'll see how that goes.

Does anyone know if this set accepts discrete codes for the inputs?

Picked mine up from Costco this past week (Samsung internals). During the First few days I had some concerns. I was seeing horrible issues such as "clay faces" during daylight scenes and snow/sparkling in bright reds. Hung it up today with a fresh coax cable and now everything looks fantastic. (Peerless ST650 mount) Must have been a bad connection.

I don't have any external sources to check for synch yet, but I do have Cablevision coming this week for a cablecard install. We'll see how that goes.

Does anyone know if this set accepts discrete codes for the inputs?

Your old coax must have been bandwidth-limited to give you the clayface and snow in reds. This can happen if coax if pinched or poor ground due to corrosion. Some coax is just cheap junk too.
I noticed this exact thing with the Philips on display at SamsClub. All their other plasmas looked great, and the philips looked terrible. I looked behind the sets and noticed that the Philips was the only one being feed by coax while the others had the component inputs hooked up. I purchased the 7320 reguardless what it looked like on display and have been happy with it. There are a few firmware bugs that need to be ironed out, but at least the set can be upgraded!!!

No descrete codes for the inputs, and I doubt there will ever be any. Philips would have to change their remote to do this.

My firmware is up to date.
This delay is noticable on older game consoles with 480i signal. This should not be an issue when you connect Xbox with HDMI since TV doesn't need any up-converting time. Try playing rhythm or games that require very severe timing on Xbox connected to composite in.

I did find someone else having the same issue on 42PF9630A forum. He actually calculated the delay using wave files, 0.14 seconds. This is not as much as I thought, but due to this problem Hot Shot Golf and all rhythm games on PS2 are unplayable.

Philips seems to know about this issue, but did not comment if they are going to fix it or not. I like everything else about this TV, but too bad, I am returning this unit.

Thanks AstroSaberIII

First and formost, make sure your firmware is up to date. That was the first thing I did when I got my set a month ago. From what I can tell, there have been two production runs of the 7320 plasma - one in July, other in October. Both runs contain older firmware and needs to be upgraded.

I have not noticed any delay playing Xbox using the HDTV cables. Tried the Microsoft HD cable and the Monster HD cable - no difference. I had a few gaming gurus come over the other day, and we all played Xbox, and they never mentioned any delay.

I play Guitar Hero (a rhythm game) all the time on my PS2 and have no delay problem. I've played it in both the side inputs and also component which is MUCH nicer.

apz, try connecting PS2's optical audio out to external speaker and turn up the volume on both the TV and the receiver. Do you hear echo? I do, so are few other people in this forum. 0.1-0.2 seconds delay causing the echo effect. I just counldn't stand it...

I play Guitar Hero (a rhythm game) all the time on my PS2 and have no delay problem. I've played it in both the side inputs and also component which is MUCH nicer.

I am really looking forward to buy the same plasma TV that you guys were talking about, that 42" 1024x768 42PF7320A. I want to hook it up to my computer...but it doesn't support DVI or VGA but it have HDMI, could I use a HDMI to DVI connector to connect it to my computer? Would the quality be bad? and maybe if the quality is bad...what happen if I buy a better graphic card, will it be better? thanks a lot!

apz, try connecting PS2's optical audio out to external speaker and turn up the volume on both the TV and the receiver. Do you hear echo? I do, so are few other people in this forum. 0.1-0.2 seconds delay causing the echo effect. I just counldn't stand it...
I'll try it, I haven't tried the optical out on my PS2. Isn't it better to just have the sound come out of the home theater and bypass or mute the TV audio? When playing my PS2 or movies, I don't use the sound on the TV. The worst thing about this TV is the sound quality.

Yes, it is much better to have the sound out from home theatre only. I was listing CD using my PS2 and accidentally had both TV and receivers volume up. That's how I discoverted the echo.

I totally agree with the sound quality on this TV.

I'll try it, I haven't tried the optical out on my PS2. Isn't it better to just have the sound come out of the home theater and bypass or mute the TV audio? When playing my PS2 or movies, I don't use the sound on the TV. The worst thing about this TV is the sound quality.

I am really looking forward to buy the same plasma TV that you guys were talking about, that 42" 1024x768 42PF7320A. I want to hook it up to my computer...but it doesn't support DVI or VGA but it have HDMI, could I use a HDMI to DVI connector to connect it to my computer? Would the quality be bad? and maybe if the quality is bad...what happen if I buy a better graphic card, will it be better? thanks a lot!

I'm pretty sure it supports VGA. You'll need to use a vga -> 5 rca adapter.

I'm having a similar problem. Once in a while, maybe every few days, the screen will go black for a 4-5 seconds then come back. It's happened with both my cable (hdmi) input and also my playstation 2 into AV1 so I don't think it's an input problem. I don't lose sound during these episodes. I'm not really sure what to do about it. Has anyone attempted to get it repaired? I'd really hate to have to bring it in somewhere and lose the use of my TV.

This happened to me the other night while watching a DVD through component input, so it's definitely not and HDMI only issue. Has anyone had this happen while watching programming via the ATSC tuner? I'm wondering if this is related to the periodic update of ATSC channel information? (That clicking noise that you hear when the TV is off.)

i called philips tech suport they told me CLICKING NOISE when TV off is normal
all 42PF7320/37 7220/37 HAS THE SAME SYMTOM according to Philips Tech guy

I was on the Costco site and saw two models of the Philips 42" plasmas ( 42PF7220A with pixel plus and 42PF9630A w/ Pixel Plus 2). Anybody have any comments about this feature? It's kinda why I'm looking at Philips because of this feature. A while ago on other forums there was a discussion how to get the Bang & Olufsen 3-D effect and a poster suggested the Pixel Plus technology is the same as what B&O used but re-tuned the technology a bit for their overpriced plasmas (12-20k). Has anyone ever compared the B&O to the Philips? Anyone ever hook a Philips plasma to a PC with WinDVD7 with the TrimensionDNM feature on? I guess I've been trying to replicate that B&O look for years now and just hoping I can get that effect with the Philips plasma. Yes I'm crazy.... but it's been awhile since I last tried...thanks in advance.

Cheers

This happened to me the other night while watching a DVD through component input, so it's definitely not and HDMI only issue. Has anyone had this happen while watching programming via the ATSC tuner? I'm wondering if this is related to the periodic update of ATSC channel information? (That clicking noise that you hear when the TV is off.)

I've had two of this TV since December 3. I returned and exchanged the first one because of this issue. - thought I had a defective unit. The replacement unit does the same thing (the chances of two units bought by the same person having the same issue are slim if this is not inherent in the model, otherwise it is just my luck getting two successive units with the same 'defect'). It's hard to figure out what's causing it because it happens infrequently (once a week in the last three weeks I've had the replacement unit), and in any of the following: (1) once while watching ESPN HD, Discovery HD (thougt it was HD related, but..) (2) at least once watching non-HD channel program, (3) always happens once while watching Star Wars III (always the same spot -beginning of chapter 9 - each time movie is played) or Polar Express (on different spots, usually towards the end of the movie). We've watched many other DVD movies where we did not observe this blackout.

In all instances, we lost both video and audio signals for about 5 seconds. We don't think the TV power goes off - the green light is on whenever this happens.

p.s. If you have these two movies, I'd be interested in learning if you observe the above-mentioned occurrences as well.

pp. Both my DVD and STB are connected to the TV using component cables to AV1 and AV2, respectively.

I just checked out Episode III chapter 9 and I did not lose the picture. I do have the 4:3 format version (darn it!), so perhaps the different version makes a difference.

I think it is safe to say that this surely is not an individual set defect, but a model defect (if you want to call it that). I think everyone that experiences this, needs to contact Philips to complain so that they can fix it with the firmware (hopefully). I have not experienced the dropped picture in over a week now. If once a week or less, I can live with it. It scared me at first, but since it is not frequent at all (at least for now), I am not worried or bothered by it anymore.