Looks like you can get the Lutron cable in 500 foot spools for less money, but it's still over $200:

https://www.mrsupply.com/lutron-grafik-eye-grx-cbl-346s-500.html

Ha! Finally found it:

http://www.hankselectric.com/item171603.ctlg

Does anyone know if the Grafik Eye 3100 wallstations (EGRX-4S-WH) are compatible with the Grafik Eye QS?
I just got a QS unit at an extremely good price, to replace my current 3100, but I don't really like the idea of buying new wallstations (pretty expensive for QS).

Ha! Finally found it:

http://www.hankselectric.com/item171603.ctlg



hey ctviggen
has someone ever told you that you are special!!!!:):):) Thanks so much for the providing the link. YOU ARE THE BEST!!!.

Alright guys, I have another situation that needs to be solved. I'm trying to add the lights in my stairways to my GE GRX3506. Currently the light is on a three way dimmer and y'all know that the code requires a switch at the beginning of the stairways and another switch at the end of the stairways so my question would be how can I address this issue in such a way that I wont be violating the code. I was thinking about put the top and bottom light on my GE then add an accessory switch at the top of the stairways since the GE will be installed at the bottom.

Also, how many accessories can I add to one GE and can I interconnect several GEs? Everyone contribution will be appreciated. Thanks

I would say that your plan sounds like it meets code.

Here is a link to the manual, which will help you with the unit.

http://files.lutron.com/commercial/3k_Complete.pdf

I believe you can link up to 8 GE's together with 2 way communication and 3 wallstations per GE unit. If you need more wallstations than that then you would need to add a power supply accessory.

Does anyone know if the Grafik Eye 3100 wallstations (EGRX-4S-WH) are compatible with the Grafik Eye QS?
I just got a QS unit at an extremely good price, to replace my current 3100, but I don't really like the idea of buying new wallstations (pretty expensive for QS).

I would say yes but would double check with lutron to be certain.

Does anyone knows if I will be able to select any six of the six zones of my grafik eye GRX-3506 if install a 4 button wall station or are these wallstations made for one zone. I see that the wall stations only have 4 buttons. Also, how do I wire 3 wall station to one Grafik eye. MY GE only has one spot for the PELV connection. Thanks

The GE offers 16 scenes, you will be able to set the GE to respond to one set of scenes. i.e. 1 thru 4 or 5 thru 8 and so on. To wire 3 you simple daisy chain, in other words you wire from one to the next resulting in only one final wire going to the GE.

The GE offers 16 scenes, you will be able to set the GE to respond to one set of scenes. i.e. 1 thru 4 or 5 thru 8 and so on. To wire 3 you simple daisy chain, in other words you wire from one to the next resulting in only one final wire going to the GE.

oman321,
Thanks for the quick response. I don't understand what you meant by "you will be able to set the GE to respond to one set of scenes. " I have 4 lights in the dinning area and 3 in the kitchen, 4 in the hall way. All lights attached to its corresponding zone. I want to install a 4 button switch at each station. So my question is, If I press the switch installed in the dinning area, how will the system know which zone to select and If I press the switch in the kitchen, how will it know the right zone to lit on without powering all lights. Does this require extra programming? Thanks

My mistake gasbie, I meant to say that you can set each wallstation to respond to 4 of the 16 scenes available on the GE. So lets say the 1st wallstation can mimic the first 4 scenes, the same as the GE. The next wall station can be set to do scenes 5-8. Each wall station has little tabs to be set in order to address to handle the scenes you want.

Does anyone know if the Grafik Eye 3100 wallstations (EGRX-4S-WH) are compatible with the Grafik Eye QS?
I just got a QS unit at an extremely good price, to replace my current 3100, but I don't really like the idea of buying new wallstations (pretty expensive for QS).

Yous should better stick with Ranias IR...why that much fuss about something you'll never use at 100% of what it does?

And don't bother too much...you won't be moving in too soon :P

I have a 3106 and i am going to have my electrician install it. I had a question though about some led strips i bought. i bouught a bunch from cooler guys. they are basically a tape that you can cut every 3 leds... connect a 3 pin connectore to them and then to a computer power supply. (at least that is my plan) My question is can i then connect it to my 3106? Or does power have to be run through the ge? I cant power the leds directily right? specs on the leds are:Length: 1M (~39")
LEDS: 60
Voltage: 12v DC
Power: 4.8W
Current: 400mA
Viewing Angle: 120
Color Temp:
Connector: 2pin with adapters for standard 3 pin or 4 pin Molex

Mine is 2 1/4 inches from the stud. 2 layers of 5/8 drywall and 1 inch of treatments.

Thanks Chiahead, I got my controller and masonry box last week, and installed it over the weekend - only took about 4 hours, a handful of choice curse words, and a few cuts on my hands (man the masonry box edges are sharp, as were all the romex ends). Getting the plastic 3 gang box out was a bit tricky, but not too bad - getting the 4 gang box in was a PITA - I ran the leads through the top openings, might have been easier if I had run them all in through the back instead, but I was concerned that I wouldn't have enough wire length to work with if I had done that.

Even with only 4 zones connected, sure was a tight fit getting the wires to all cooperate - not really looking forward to taking it out to install fabric panels later on, might just work around it.

I did what you suggested, had the wallbox extend out an inch from the drywall face. Hopefully the inspector is OK with that (electrical was already inspected before I put in the Grafik Eye, but final is yet to come, after all the walls are done).

Now to figure out how to program the scenes - is there any discussion of sample scenes for an HT buried in this thread somewhere? Off to search to find out...

does anyone know where I can get a class 2 PELV cable?
I picked up regular thermostat cable at the hardware store. It's 18 gauge/5 conductor (PELV is 18 gauge) and should work (I hope) 50ft. was only $14.99

Just so you know Butch627, while thermostat cable will work it is not up to code. The reason being is that PELV wire or the similar options have a high voltage sheathing, where as the thermostat wire or cat5 cable only have low voltage sheathing. The high voltage sheathing is necessary when placing that wire in a box with other high voltage wires.

I am looking at an inline exhaust fan, Fantech, to cycle air between an equipment room and the media room. The Fantech pulls up to 72 Watts and 0.67 amps. The fan is 100% speed controllable.

I want to have this fan turn on/off as part of my Grafik Eye scenes. I also need to reduce the speed of the fan as the full power is too much for what my needs are. I thought of two options...

1. The apparent easy and straightforward approach: Place this fan on one of the Grafik eye zones and control the speed by the zone setting.

2. Use a zone set to full on/off wired to a fan speed controller switch which then is hooked up to the fan.

Thoughts or is this way outside the realm of being possible with a Grafik Eye?

Thanks
Robert

Robert, I would skip the graphik eye zone for that. Use an attic thermostat.
http://www.amazon.com/Ventamatic-XXADJTSTAT-Adjustable-Thermostat-Ventilators/dp/B002TYK4A6

That way if there is heat it will pump it out weather the eye is on or not. The eye makes it manual, where the direct line is forgive and forget. You could put something inline to slow it down too.

In mine, I placed the fan at the end of the duct run, so there was less sound at the source. I did one in the AV closet, and 1 at the projector. Both are on a dedicated line, and the thermostat sits right above the equipment. Also they dump out into my unfinished utility room, so if there is an issue with the inline fan, I can replace them without having to dig into the finished part of the ceiling.

Michael - that's a good idea, I had not really thought too much about that. Since I will have a DISH PVR in the room and it is always on running the hard drive, the room would indeed get hot during the day. Plus, it would be a cheaper solution.

I read some people who tried those thermostats see large variations in when it turns on/off. For example, if you set it to 80, it may turn on when the room is 85 and off when the room is 75. Have you seen this?

Robert

Mine is hooked up, but I have no equipment in there yet.
I only tested it by moving the dial to see that it does go on and off.

You can adjust it, have it turn on sooner. Who cares when it goes off as long as your stuff stays cool.

I am selling the following:

Grafik Eye 3100 / 6 Zone / 230V Europe (GRX-3106-T-CE-WH)
Brand New, In Box.
Price: 400 euros (it's around 700 euros in Europe, see www.onidserv.com for lowest price)

2 x EGRX-4S-WH Wallstations
Brand New, In Box.
Price: 230 euros for both (around 150 euros each in stores, so 300 euro both)

GRX-IT-WH Remote Control
Brand New, In Box.
Price: 40 euros (around 80 euros in stores)

If anyone is looking for a 24 zone Grafik Eye, check eBay for a steal (not my listing, just passing it on).

If anyone is looking for a 24 zone Grafik Eye, check eBay for a steal (not my listing, just passing it on).

I'm pretty sure I see the one you are talking about. What is involved in installing and operating one of these? Does it run just the same as the 6 or 4 zone units? I'm having a hard time finding any sort of manual on it. I don't need 24 zones, but for the price of a 6 zone unit I could probably find a couple ways to expand.

I'm pretty sure I see the one you are talking about. What is involved in installing and operating one of these? Does it run just the same as the 6 or 4 zone units? I'm having a hard time finding any sort of manual on it. I don't need 24 zones, but for the price of a 6 zone unit I could probably find a couple ways to expand.

Yeah I'm not really familiar with that line, but the eBay listing does have a link to the Lutron manual for that line. I already bought and installed a 4 zone, which is enough for me - but if I hadn't, I'd probably be all over that, and get stoopid with the extra zones. :p

Just FYI, The 24 zone GE is just a controller for a dimming panel (large box placed in a remote location containing the dimming boards). It cannot control a light directly (Like the 2, 3, 4, 6 zone GE units), but requires a dimming panel. Once you price the dimming panels, you might have second thoughts on what a bargain it is..

Quick Question:
GRX 3106 will be mounted inside Raco 698
GRX 3106(@inside room) will be connected to NTGRX-4S (@ entrance)
NTGRX-4S will be connected to GRX-IRI (in Closet)
I am thinking to use GRX-CBL-346S to connect 3106 to NTGRX to IRI

Question is: Somewhere I read I cant run low voltage cable into RACO box...what should I do? Help me out...

You are fine running the GRX-CBL-346S into the Raco. It is the equivalent to PELV and has 300v rated sheath which allows for it to be placed in a high voltage box. You are good to go sathyakamaraj.

http://www.onidserv.com/resources/lutronshop/pdf/cables_nonplenum.pdf

Hi guys,

Can anyone tell me what sort of voltages the GE QS is expecting when you wire up an IR emitter to the GE? I can control the GE with my harmony 1000 when pointing at the GE IR sensor. I can control it using an IR repeater if I place a bug/flasher in front of the GE IR sensor.

However when I wire a cable with a 3.5mm jack on one end into the GE IR posts nothing works. I have checked the continuity of the cable and it is fine. The voltage down the cable does change when the repeater is receiving commands and passing them on.

This is the IR repeater (http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AR1814) I am using.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Simon

Ive been trying to search for this answer but havent found it here but im sure ive missed it since it probably is commonplace. I have the 3106 and i want to control 3 rows of can lights, and then i have several led strips from cooler guys. I have about 15 or so. What is the best way to connect them to the ge? They are low voltage, and i know mixing loads is not good. Id like to have the remaining 3 zones i have left be for these leds. My electrician said we could probably use a transformer but i have also read i might need a special loutron part? Im sorry im confused and just dont want to ruin the panel. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Tired of waiting for low price in ebay....
Also i was messing around the IR flasher under 3106...got tired of it too..not that smart to install it..so

Ordered GRX-IRI + NTGRX-4S wall station + 50' GRX-CBL-346S cable..

Cant wait for the final installation

I am selling the following:

Grafik Eye 3100 / 6 Zone / 230V Europe (GRX-3106-T-CE-WH)
Brand New, In Box.
Price: 400 euros (it's around 700 euros in Europe, see www.onidserv.com for lowest price)

2 x EGRX-4S-WH Wallstations
Brand New, In Box.
Price: 230 euros for both (around 150 euros each in stores, so 300 euro both)

GRX-IT-WH Remote Control
Brand New, In Box.
Price: 40 euros (around 80 euros in stores)

Still up for sale. Grab a bargain!

Do I have a broken NTGRX-4S wallstation? I have this daisy chained via the correct cable to an IR "wallstation" and then to a 3004 controller. I've verified the cabling multiple times. If I select one of the four scene buttons on the wallstation, the appropriate LED lights up. However, I cannot get the wallstation to go into setup mode. There are two buttons to press (off and the first button) for three seconds, and then the LEDs should start cycling. On my unit, the LEDs never cycle, regardless of how long I press the two buttons. Is my unit broken? My controller is assigned an address, and the addresses of the IR and wallstation are different.

Do I have a broken NTGRX-4S wallstation? I have this daisy chained via the correct cable to an IR "wallstation" and then to a 3004 controller. I've verified the cabling multiple times. If I select one of the four scene buttons on the wallstation, the appropriate LED lights up. However, I cannot get the wallstation to go into setup mode. There are two buttons to press (off and the first button) for three seconds, and then the LEDs should start cycling. On my unit, the LEDs never cycle, regardless of how long I press the two buttons. Is my unit broken? My controller is assigned an address, and the addresses of the IR and wallstation are different.

It was operator error. I had double checked all wiring outside of the 3004. I then checked the wiring inside the 3004 and one of the PELV wires was not connected to the termination block.

Hello everyone.
Hopefully this is a quick and dumb thing, but I can't seem to find a solution.
I am helping a friend do a home theater install, and he has a lutron 3106 6 zone light controller. The controller is running various zone's of halogen can lights above the theater.
Everything works as i would hope it would, powering on, and off, controlling the zones, and the lights all dim.. However, they never seem to dim all that far.

I have adjusted the LE to as low as I think they go, with no impact. the LED's on each zone only have the lowest LED lit.

Any idea how to get these to dim to darker levels? Thanks guys.

Hi all. I have what is probably a pretty dumb question. I recently received what was listed as a GRX-MR-6 and it's not quite what I was expecting. It has 6 zone connection terminals on the back of the unit, but zones 5 & 6 have a "Do not use" sticker beside them. Under the translucent cover, there are only 4 zones.

So I was shipped the MR-4 version instead of the MR-6, or am I missing something?

That's unusual, a 4 zone unit does not have the 5th &6th zones like that. A 4 zone unit simply has 4 switch controls. I would contact your seller and see what the deal is. If you were sold a defective unit thru ebay you can put a claim in with ebay.

http://www.onidserv.com/resources/lutronshop/pdf/cables_nonplenum.pdf

http://www.scpcat5e.com/cables/controlcable/pdf/SCP_lutron-wh.pdf

whats the difference between the above two cables..i received the second one...but i ordered the first one...

both are same??

...it appears the one received is four 18 ga solid core copper conductors instead of stranded. You might check over the phone with the vendor and make certain the outer jacket is rated for high voltage service making it suitable for use within the confines of the GE box. Use red/black for low voltage power and white/green for MUX signal. The pull cord is good to have, especially if you will be pulling solid core wire.

You might check over the phone with the vendor and make certain the outer jacket is rated for high voltage service making it suitable for use within the confines of the GE box.
Hanks Electric is causing me trouble from day 1 -- I will talk to them and make sure about it..

Just to know before
...it appears the one received is four 18 ga solid core copper conductors instead of stranded

Received wire is 4 Conductor Wire + 1 Drain Wire
18 gauge wires with 7/26 - Its not solid wire ( Correct ? )

The pull cord is good to have, especially if you will be pulling solid core wire.
what is meant by pull cord ??

...I missed the strand count in glancing at the spec sheet. Stranded has better flexibility. The pull cord is a synthetic fiber cable having good pull strength, usually white nylon or polyester strands, within the bundle of conductors.

...I missed the strand count in glancing at the spec sheet. Stranded has better flexibility. The pull cord is a synthetic fiber cable having good pull strength, usually white nylon or polyester strands, within the bundle of conductors.
oohhh..now i know ..but its not available in the both the cables..thanks for the info..i sent email to hanks electric already..lets see...

GRX3000 inside the Media Room - Wall station - right behind the GRX mounted wall ( Entrance ) - GRX IRI at the Closet

Option 1:
Without Wirenuts
http://vimission.com/images/Option1.png

Option 2:
With Wirenuts
http://vimission.com/images/option2.png

GRX Mounting -- Masonry Box RAco 698 - Double Box Installation
NTGRX Mounting -- Home Depot http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/2d/2dbf8558-3139-4fab-9043-edb26ce47f1d_300.jpg
GRX-IRI Mounting ---???

Questions:

1. Option 1 or Option 2 or Both are wrong
2. PELV cable wiring needs to be run through conduit?? ( run through attic from room to closet equipment rack
3. GRX-IRI mounting -- best way to mount in wall...Clean installation with less work??

1. Both seem fine, 1 would be a lot cleaner. Each connection can typically receive 2 wires so you should be fine.

2. No conduit necessary, pelv can be run the same as romex or cat5. Just don't install in such a way that you can hang something from it in the attic.

3. GRX IRI installed into a box just like the NTGRX. Existing work box.

Good luck.

....I would be inclined to use black for common and red for hot on your power leads, maybe others more experienced can chime in as to what is conventional.

In this applacation I wouldn't be to concerned. In any event though for high voltage wiring red or black can be power. You will find a red conductor in a 12-3 or 14-3 wire which is typically used in a 3way switch application (in which case the power goes between either conductor) or in 240volt circuit (in which case both conductors are powered).

Nice for you to notice that though.

Does anyone know if the Grafik Eye 3100 wallstations (EGRX-4S-WH) are compatible with the Grafik Eye QS?
No, they are not compatible. QS uses a different bus protocol.

I have a 3106 and i am going to have my electrician install it. I had a question though about some led strips i bought. i bouught a bunch from cooler guys. they are basically a tape that you can cut every 3 leds... connect a 3 pin connectore to them and then to a computer power supply. (at least that is my plan) My question is can i then connect it to my 3106? Or does power have to be run through the ge? I cant power the leds directily right? specs on the leds are:Length: 1M (~39")
LEDS: 60
Voltage: 12v DC
Power: 4.8W
Current: 400mA
Viewing Angle: 120
Color Temp:
Connector: 2pin with adapters for standard 3 pin or 4 pin Molex

No, no, and no.

The PC power supply is an ELV load, and the GE doesn't handle it (you can probably get an adapter).

You can't power the LEDs directly because they are 12VDC devices.

You can't power the LEDs directly because they they only draw 4.8W and the GE requires a minimum of 25W.


I'm all for DIY, but you have to have at least a rudimentary understanding of electricity to play in this sandbox.

Hello everyone.
Hopefully this is a quick and dumb thing, but I can't seem to find a solution.
I am helping a friend do a home theater install, and he has a lutron 3106 6 zone light controller. The controller is running various zone's of halogen can lights above the theater.
Everything works as i would hope it would, powering on, and off, controlling the zones, and the lights all dim.. However, they never seem to dim all that far.

I have adjusted the LE to as low as I think they go, with no impact. the LED's on each zone only have the lowest LED lit.

Sounds to me like you have a defective unit. But first say what the total load is on each of the zones that won't dim. GE has a minimum of 25W.

Hi all,

After being so careful about all my wiring, apparently the drywall guys were not...

http://lh5.ggpht.com/_wbgOJLcX4qI/TIz9-7B5EYI/AAAAAAAADxE/0BC7dtz6xR8/IMG_6164.JPG

As you can see, they routered into my PELV cable.... in the worst possible spot.... Had they given me a few more inches, I would be OK.

I assume this is OK, but wanted to see if anyone else has done this: Can each of the 4 wires (and the ground) be extended by crimping to standard wire connectors? I can also encase the 4 wires in shrink tubing.

Or is there some form of odd capacitance/inductance/resistance/impedence/ohms law/farradays law, etc, that would make this method unacceptable.

Thanks!

I assume this wiring is going to either Wall Station or IRI Interface.
JMO,for my eyes -- if you cut at that spot - and connect it to wall station and install it - push it inside the box..i assume you are ok in the length...

Expert can say about the connectivity direct connection is must or not..

Just in case if you need short piece of cable - lemme know : I can dig in my tool box : I just finished mine yesterday...GRX 3000 + Wall station + IRI interface..

This is in the theater room, for connection to Lutron NTGRX-4S.
It looks like it will work, but I need another inch as this box will be extended through an inch thick acoustical panel on the wall.

It is so very close... but just won't make it.

sathyakamaraj - Thanks for the offer for the wire. I still have a few feet.

My proposed solution for each wire... popped the metal connector out of a standard red wire connector:

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_wbgOJLcX4qI/TI0W2pu07QI/AAAAAAAADxU/M79FvxCCSG4/Wire%20Fix.jpg

Dead & Alive...Didnt go to room for the last 6 weeks atleast...

Finally Installed Grafik Eye Systems

Wall Station at the Entrance
http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/milta_xo/IMG_6931.jpg

GRX 3000 inside the room
http://i611.photobucket.com/albums/tt197/milta_xo/IMG_6929.jpg

Also I installed GRX IR Interface in the closet

All the wiring went ok??? I dont know
Because:
Only Issue : today when I change the scenes from the wall control - power tripped.
Do I need to wait for certain time between changing Scenes?? I pressed continuously scene 1,2,3...then power tripped...

Anyone thinks that line is short circuited...?? its running in a 20A breaker line. My load calculation is still under 16 A..

by the way : As per Lutron Manual : Connected Load be atleast 25W.
3 light zones - dont have anything connected right now...you think it cause the unit to be tripped?

Hi All.

I have a 3104, a 3106, and 4 wall stations connected to the system. I need to reset which grafik eyes are "listening" to my wall stations. To make them listen, you go to each wall station and press the scene 1 and off buttons together for 3 seconds, which causes the lights to cycle. Then, you go to the grafik eye, press and hold scene 1 button until all 4 of the scene lights flash together.

But, I want to change what is listening to which wall station, so I figured if a grafik eye was currently listening to a wall station, I could put that wall station into setup mode, go to the grafik eye and hold the scene 1 button until the lights stop flashing.

But, that doesn't happen. It seems I don't have a way to disallow the communications. Is there a way to do this? If not, how do I reset my grafik eyes and just set up all the communications again from scratch, and have the desired configuration?

Thanks in advance,
will

I have been using it for the last one week - GRX didnt trip this time.
But when I turn off - after all the lights turns off - I hear sound from GRX , I dont know how to explain..it is just one sound...

My unit makes a click sound when it is shut down.

My unit makes a click sound when it is shut down.
Thanks..i am good then...
I still can't figr out why power tripped last week. ( didnt happen after that )

My unit makes a click sound when it is shut down.

Both of mine make a click sound, which sounds like a relay clicking open or shut inside them.

I have been using it for the last one week - GRX didnt trip this time.
But when I turn off - after all the lights turns off - I hear sound from GRX , I dont know how to explain..it is just one sound...

Did you run your power from the panel to your grafik eye? Also, how many accessories are connected to the grafik eye. The max you can have is three. If You are connecting more than three, then you need a booster.

I have been using it for the last one week - GRX didnt trip this time.
But when I turn off - after all the lights turns off - I hear sound from GRX , I dont know how to explain..it is just one sound...

GE's have a relay which powers up and down the internal dimmers. When the lights fade to off, the relay opens with a faint "thunk". This also happens when first turned on. It is no problem.

Did you run your power from the panel to your grafik eye? Also, how many accessories are connected to the grafik eye. The max you can have is three. If You are connecting more than three, then you need a booster.

I guess i have to take everything down...it worked fine 3 days before...today tripped 3-4 times back to back.

Power is running from the Breakerpanel downstairs directly conneccted to grx
i have GRX + Wall Station + IRI ( 3 Units )

I am a mech engr, i like to blame everything on elec.engr.
Well, Is there is any limitation in the operation of GRX Unit ? what will happen if you make One Scene to Dead load (means all the zones are off)? right now I have only 2 zones with lights, rest 4 are not connected with lights. I couldn't find anywhere in google search regarding GRX Trip failure... :mad: :o
I couldnt jump to next build process...stuck here

Well, double check the wiring on the GRX and be certain that nothing is loose. You have low voltage going to the wall station and IRI correct? So I can't imagine that being the problem but double check those connections of course. Finally double check the circuit breaker connections and possibly replace that circuit breaker. Just like anything else mechanical it can fail or be faulty.

Are you by chance using an arc fault circuit breaker?

Are you by chance using an arc fault circuit breaker?
Low Voltage is going to wall stations - YES

Are you by chance using an arc fault circuit breaker? -- I think YES, I will double check it....Its not the right one to install (20A breaker)

It should be easily identifiable by the white pig tail wire.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/HomeDepotCanada/images/catalog/8f1f4e17-08ce-4081-8ac4-a1b2bafb9360_4.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CatalogSearchResultView%3FD%3D943169%26Ntt%3D943169%26catalo gId%3D10051%26langId%3D-15%26storeId%3D10051%26Dx%3Dmode%2Bmatchallpartial%26Ntx%3Dm ode%2Bmatchall%26recN%3D112079%25204294964365%26N%3D0%26Ntk% 3DP_PartNumber&usg=__qi6zX1DPzanAVTexYbfprCsRkao=&h=400&w=400&sz=21&hl=en&start=2&zoom=1&um=1&itbs=1&tbnid=emcJhb8hT7aCdM:&tbnh=124&tbnw=124&prev=/images%3Fq%3Darc%2Bfault%2Bcircuit%2Binterrupter%26um%3D1%26 hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26tbs%3Disch:1

It may be the right one and according to code it may be required. It used to only be required in bedrooms if recall correctly but now they have moved towards all finished living spaces. In any event they are sensitive, and where you are using a device with relays and low voltage connections it may be working against you. I would personally swap it out with a regular circuit breaker and see if that solves your troubles.

When at a lighting dealer today, I was getting steered away from a 6 zone GE to a Lightolier set up. The reason was that if a GE zone no longer works, there's nothing you can do about it while a Lightolier zone can be replaced. Never thought about that. What do you guys do if one of your GE zones no longer works?

When at a lighting dealer today, I was getting steered away from a 6 zone GE to a Lightolier set up. The reason was that if a GE zone no longer works, there's nothing you can do about it while a Lightolier zone can be replaced. Never thought about that. What do you guys do if one of your GE zones no longer works?

I guess if you're only using 5 of the 6 zones on a 3106, then you just change to that 'spare' zone. :)

I just wonder how much the lightolier zone costs to replace compared to a GE.

Hi All,

I just hooked up 1 zone of a 3106 that I purchased off ebay, and all works fine. I then hooked up a NTGRX-4S scene controller, which I cannot get to do anything.

1) Where are the DIP switches on the 3106 that the documentation references?? For the life of me, I cannot find them.
2) When I hooked up the NTGRX-4S, I only used 4 wires - Should anything be done with the unshielded metal wire in the PELV jacket?

Thanks!

AHA... I think I figured it out.... They eBayer sent me a Grafik Eye RA installation manual. I just found the 3016 manual (not RA) which doesn't reference DIPs.

But my second question still stands.... Any connection for the unshielded wire braid?

If I recall correctly, you only need to worry about the drain if you have two or more accessories.

I just wonder how much the lightolier zone costs to replace compared to a GE.[/QUOTE]

The Lightolier was about $250 for the control unit and $135 for each zone.

Hi All,
It's time to connect my URC MRF-350 to my GE 3106. I ran CAT 5 wire between the two devices and plan to splice an IR flasher at the GE end and a 3.5mm mono plug at the end of the IR transmitter (MRF-350)

Questions
1. Is there any way around having to affix an IR Flasher to the front of the GE? It doesn't look that great. I see that there are LV connections on the back of the GE, but I believe these are just for accessories. Are there any alternatives

2. When connecting CAT5 to the 2 conductor IR flasher wire, do I just pick 2 wires in the CAT 5 cable and ignore the other 6? Should I use any specific color, etc.

Thanks,
Mark

1. Lutron sells an IR interface device, called GRX-IRI that accepts an emitter flasher signal and converts it to the low voltage signal that is in turn hard wired into the rear low voltage singal imput of your 3106. You can install the GRX-IRI somewhere out of sight and avoid having the flasher visibile.

2. Any two cat-5 twisted pair wires will do, however, make sure you maintain the correct polarity between the plug and the emitter (pair the same two colors between URC internal wires and cat-5 wire on both the plug end and the emitter end).

GRX-IRI. It fits a single gang box. You have an IR flasher hit it, then use PELV wire to conenct the GRX-IRI to the 3106 unit. It uses the LV connections you mentioned on the back of the 3106.

I have purchased this exact setup, but have not connected the GRX-IRI yet.

GRX-IRI. It fits a single gang box. You have an IR flasher hit it, then use PELV wire to conenct the GRX-IRI to the 3106 unit. It uses the LV connections you mentioned on the back of the 3106.

I have purchased this exact setup, but have not connected the GRX-IRI yet.

This is very interesting - I Think this will satisfy my issue of not having to put a flasher on the front of the GE.

One question though - I ran CAT5 from the GE 3106 4 gang box back to my rack. I would like to place the GRX-IRI in my equipment rack and connect it to the GE using CAT 5. Its about 60' of wire. Will this work and if so, would I just put two wires in each of the LV connections on the back of the GE (example the blue and white/blue cable would go in one hole, etc.)

Mark

It will probably work to make the connection, however it's not up to code. Your not supposed to put high voltage and low voltage in the same box. The pelv cable has high voltage sheathing and that is why you can use it.

It will probably work to make the connection, however it's not up to code. Your not supposed to put high voltage and low voltage in the same box. The pelv cable has high voltage sheathing and that is why you can use it.

Technically this is correct, however the workaround is to wrap the low voltage wires with PVC tape inside the box -- not guaranteed to pass code, but I read on some electrician discussion forum that this was ok since the insulation value of PVC tape is rated 600v.

Hi All,

Questions
1. Is there any way around having to affix an IR Flasher to the front of the GE? It doesn't look that great. I see that there are LV connections on the back of the GE, but I believe these are just for accessories. Are there any alternatives



I actually used a bare bones IR flasher that I routed in behind the front face plate of my 3106, and with a little bit of fiddling around, I used a dremel type tool to grind a recess in to the face plate so that it wouldn't bulge.

A whole lot cheaper than buying something special, which results in another hole in the wall. ;)

I was wondering if others have encountered or have any ideas about how to reduce/eliminate interference on a plasma TV screen caused by a GrafikEye GRX-3106. We have a GrafikEye GRX-3106 on our kitchen lights and a separate Wall Control NT-GRX-4S on the other side of the room. When the lights are on, I see interference on both of our plasma TVs located elsewhere in the house (Panasonic 50" TH50PZ800U) in the form of red and green lines moving through the picture. When we turn the lights off, the lines go away. I see the lines even when the cable box is turned off and the TV screen is blank so I think it is coming through the house wiring. I have put noise filtering (EMI/RFI) power strips on both the TVs and on the cable box connected to the TVs with no improvement.
Is there something that I can do to eliminate this noise?

I just wonder how much the lightolier zone costs to replace compared to a GE.

The Lightolier was about $250 for the control unit and $135 for each zone.[/QUOTE]




GE vs Lightolier..

The lightolier takes one gang/zone + keypad. So a 6 zone GE takes 4 gangs, a six zone Lightolier takes 7 gangs.

That is the most dramatic example. If a zone on a LOL goes out, you just change that zone dimmer. A zone on a GE goes out, you get a new GE.

Your prices are way too high. The keypad should cost $125 and each zone around $65.

The Lightolier uses all standard 120 V wire. You can distribute the zone dimmers wherever you want, and keypads anywhere you want, only connecting them with a single standard wire. You can even have the dimmers on different phases with no problem.

GE capacity is 2000W total for 4 to 6 zone. The Lightolier are 600W each (must be derated when ganged together) and are available in 1000, 1500, 2000W versions. So a 4 zone Lightolier ganged together must be derated to 500/400/400/500 or 1800W vs 2000W for GE. doing a 6 zone would get you 2600W vs the GE at 2000W.

The GE interface is more intuitive and elegant. The zone lights are hidden, the Lightolier has them on each dimmer, always visible (you can program brightness). On the GE, you adjust a scene and it auto remembers, on the Lightolier you have to program the scenes by pushing a hidden button on each dimmer, then the scene button. Less intuitive.

Anyway.. enough on the differences.. I use both all the time.

Cheers,
Wayne

Hope this helps..

...I wish to install a simple 2 button wallstation in my dedicated theater room compatible with my GRX-3000 series controller. I want backlighted buttons, but need their brown plate color for decor reasons. A see-Touch SG two button non-insert should work, but I'm concerned the brown color keys would pass insufficent light (via the engraved text). I am considering ordering a white color unit with standard text engraving, and then use the white buttons together with a brown exterior plate. Does anyone know if I can order the wallstation directly configured this way? Failing that, is it possible to jointly order a replacement plate in brown -- don't really need the buttons, just the plate. Any idea how costly the replacement option would be? Or would perhaps a brown unit together with white replacement buttons be wiser?

Could some please advise on how to mount the Grafik Eye metal backbox on a rigips / plasterboard wall ? Does it require any clamps ?

Probably go with 4 zone GE for my HT. Probably go with single RF remote for entire HT. Single wall switch/keypad directly outside the HT to meet code etc.

Don't want to mount GE on wall because I don't think it will work with decor.

HT has equipment cabinet with face on HT wall. I could locate GE inside equipment cabinet.
+ GE accessible inside HT for easy adjustment, viewing, etc.
- Mixing HV and LV wiring inside equipment cabinet not ideal.
- Concerned GE switching noise might couple into audio/video cables.

Directly behind HT is a large wiring closet. GE could be located in wiring closet.
- GE not accessible, not viewable inside HT.
+ HV, LV wiring easily separable.
+ Wiring more accessible. More futureproof.

I'm inclined to go with wiring closet location to reduce risks and ease of installation but am concerned about the loss of access while inside HT.

I know that the GE can be fully controlled via the wireless, at least at the user level.

Its about a 50 foot walk from the HT around to the wiring closet. For setup, etc its somewhat inconvenient.

Can somebody who has lived with one of these little beasties for a while comment?

Thanks.

It appears that it is a sad day for my GRX-3006. It is unresponsive after a short occurred in one of the light fixtures. I bought it used years ago, so I'm not even sure how old that model is, but it is very similar to the GRX-3106

( Note to self... it' probably a good idea to turn the breaker off when changing damaged bulbs on a dimmer circuit :mad: )

Since the short, it appears dead / unresponsive and nothing I've tried has made any difference.

I'm about to call Lutron, but I'm wondering if anyone knows any other resources for repairing a Grafik Eye. Or is Lutron my best bet?

Hi All,

I just hooked up 1 zone of a 3106 that I purchased off ebay, and all works fine. I then hooked up a NTGRX-4S scene controller, which I cannot get to do anything.

1) Where are the DIP switches on the 3106 that the documentation references?? For the life of me, I cannot find them.
2) When I hooked up the NTGRX-4S, I only used 4 wires - Should anything be done with the unshielded metal wire in the PELV jacket?

Thanks!
The DIP switches are only found on the Wallstation not the GE. In the setup of the GE you set the unit address via the Master Raise/Lower and the Delay Raise/Lower buttons. I bring this up because if it was changed from the default of "A-" then you need to assign the remote station to talk to the GE unit. If you are not using RS-232 or more than one GE on the same PELV link, then the simplistic fix would be to revert the GR back to the default address. Otherwise follow the programming instructions to assign the Wallstation to the GE. Press and hold the Scene 1 and Off buttons for about 3 seconds, then once the LEDs start to Cycle go to the GE and press and hold the Scene 1 button on the GE until all its LEDs start to flash. Then back to the wallstation and press the Scene 1 and Off until the LEDs stop flashing. If all is well the Wallstation is not set to talk to the GE. If you want to have the Scene LEDs track on the GE and the Wallstation then you would need to repeat the steps but reverse the devices in the steps previous.

...I wish to install a simple 2 button wallstation in my dedicated theater room compatible with my GRX-3000 series controller. I want backlighted buttons, but need their brown plate color for decor reasons. A see-Touch SG two button non-insert should work, but I'm concerned the brown color keys would pass insufficent light (via the engraved text). I am considering ordering a white color unit with standard text engraving, and then use the white buttons together with a brown exterior plate. Does anyone know if I can order the wallstation directly configured this way? Failing that, is it possible to jointly order a replacement plate in brown -- don't really need the buttons, just the plate. Any idea how costly the replacement option would be? Or would perhaps a brown unit together with white replacement buttons be wiser?

You should have more than enough light through the buttons when you order the brown unit. You can order the device in Brown and get the default buttons engraved (Use EGN on the end of the model number.) then when your ready order a replacement engraved button kit from Lutron in either white or brown whatever your choice.

I was wondering if others have encountered or have any ideas about how to reduce/eliminate interference on a plasma TV screen caused by a GrafikEye GRX-3106. We have a GrafikEye GRX-3106 on our kitchen lights and a separate Wall Control NT-GRX-4S on the other side of the room. When the lights are on, I see interference on both of our plasma TVs located elsewhere in the house (Panasonic 50" TH50PZ800U) in the form of red and green lines moving through the picture. When we turn the lights off, the lines go away. I see the lines even when the cable box is turned off and the TV screen is blank so I think it is coming through the house wiring. I have put noise filtering (EMI/RFI) power strips on both the TVs and on the cable box connected to the TVs with no improvement.
Is there something that I can do to eliminate this noise?

I would actually start looking at your lighting in the Kitchen. Do you have any Low-Voltage lighting? The GRAFIK Eye has built in EMI suppression, while it is not perfect, it does go a long way. However, specifically Magnetic Low-Voltage lighting uses transformers which depending on where they are made and the quality, I have see many installation cause this type of problem. Changing the Transformer to a higher quality or better yet a Electronic Transformer usually helps.

Probably go with 4 zone GE for my HT. Probably go with single RF remote for entire HT. Single wall switch/keypad directly outside the HT to meet code etc.

Don't want to mount GE on wall because I don't think it will work with decor.

HT has equipment cabinet with face on HT wall. I could locate GE inside equipment cabinet.
+ GE accessible inside HT for easy adjustment, viewing, etc.
- Mixing HV and LV wiring inside equipment cabinet not ideal.
- Concerned GE switching noise might couple into audio/video cables.

Directly behind HT is a large wiring closet. GE could be located in wiring closet.
- GE not accessible, not viewable inside HT.
+ HV, LV wiring easily separable.
+ Wiring more accessible. More futureproof.

I'm inclined to go with wiring closet location to reduce risks and ease of installation but am concerned about the loss of access while inside HT.

I know that the GE can be fully controlled via the wireless, at least at the user level.

Its about a 50 foot walk from the HT around to the wiring closet. For setup, etc its somewhat inconvenient.

Can somebody who has lived with one of these little beasties for a while comment?

Thanks.

I would opt for the Wiring Closet for all the pros listed. Once you have "tweaked" your scenes to your liking, you most likely will never have to touch the GRAFIK Eye.

I see that alot of people on this thread have not been emphasizing on Lutron Grafik EYE QS Wireless, any reason? Just curious. I know the QS has a time clock which can be added to other grafik eye via PRG interface. QS has a metadata and wireless capabilities, who really cares. lol. What is the main difference between the regular grafik eye and QS wireless? How easy are they to integrate with security system?

I have no idea. I have read alot of this thread and visited Lutron.com and I'm still confused on the IR Interfaces. I'm currently wiring my HT Room for six zones. The QS or 3106 are the ones I'm currently looking at. Installation of these main units is straight forward, but when it comes to the interfaces I get confused. I also want to incorporated a curtain/drape system to the main unit as well and operate it with a remote control.

In case of a short circuit on one of the zones wired to the grafik eye, does the distribution panel circuit breaker (10A) does its job, or the grafik eye units gets burnt ?

I am ready to purchase a 3104. Any recommendations for a good online vendor?

Thank,
Wavy

I am ready to purchase a 3104. Any recommendations for a good online vendor?

Thank,
Wavy

Checkout Ebay.. I saw a few used ones for a decent price..

just purchased a used Grafik Eye 6-zone (3106) on ebay. I'm planning on using five zones (4 zones have wire already run and 1 zone for recessed lights have the cans already installed). I downloaded the free Grafik Eye software and entered all of the information needed for setup:

Zone 1 - Recessed Cans - Undersoffit (5).. Cans already installed..
Zone 2 - Recessed Cans - Front Screen (3)..
Zone 3 - Rope Light - Riser(1)
Zone 4 - Rope Light - Ceiling(1)
Zone 5 - Scones - (3)

Wattages are acceptable for a 20A run to the circuit panel.

As stated earlier, I want to incorporate a curtain system on the stage. If I can get a RS232 or something to connect to my AV Receiver and have the lights flash during a heavy bass sequence, I'm interested as well.. :-)

Thought I would ask the Lutron experts....

For my 3106, I need to twist 8 x 12 gauge neutral wires together (6 zones, plus the supply neutral, plus the jumper to the unit).

I am pretty sure this is similar in difficuly to tearing a phone book in half. How is everyone accomplishing this feat?

Oh, and it needs to fit in the box.

Thanks!

Bus bar in the second box.

Don't have a second box.....
Just the one big metal raco box.

Don't have a second box.....
Just the one big metal raco box.

Just buy a bus bar that has a cover over it, and mount it behind the wall.

You can get them in various sizes over here, so I would imagine you'd also have a selection over there too.

Does anyone know if it is possible to update the firmware on the Grafik Eye QS? I downloaded Lutron's single unit programming software in hopes of simplifying my Grafik Eye programming, but one of my Grafik Eye's firmare is not supported by the application.

Can anyone explain the difference between the GRX-3104 and the GXI-3104?

Nice to see that this thread has came back to life.. Can someone answer my previous post as well..

Thought I would ask the Lutron experts....

For my 3106, I need to twist 8 x 12 gauge neutral wires together (6 zones, plus the supply neutral, plus the jumper to the unit).

I am pretty sure this is similar in difficuly to tearing a phone book in half. How is everyone accomplishing this feat?

Oh, and it needs to fit in the box.

Thanks!

I didn't have 8, but still quite a few - I used these type of push-in wire "nuts":

http://www.goodmart.com/images/prodimages/ideal/1FS251.jpg

You could daisy chain a couple together with a jumper - not sure if that's a code nono though?

I did the same as Brad. I used a second box did the wiring there, then ran the tails to the graphic eye box.

Here is a pic of mine (not the connections, just the boxes)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17050064#post17050064

I did the same as Brad. I used a second box did the wiring there, then ran the tails to the graphic eye box.

Here is a pic of mine (not the connections, just the boxes)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17050064#post17050064

You have a box of connections behind drywall and you passed inspection? How is that possible?

You have a box of connections behind drywall and you passed inspection? How is that possible?

No, the lower box is the Graphic eye into the room, the upper box is in the utility room, just a blank face plate over it, and completely accessible.

I used the push-in wire "nuts" in my rasco box. I connected each Neutral to a push in wire nut, then ran a second stranded wire from each push in wire nuts to the grafik eye. Stranded wire makes it easier to push the grafik eye back into the box. I tried to big wire nut to bind all neutral together but it just didn't work for me. Anyways I used the push in wire nut for the neutral and ground wire. It really worked out well.

Can someone tell me if they were able to integrate the RF remote control with grafik eye? If so, how did you do it and can you post a picture?

Also, I realized that people in this forum barely talk about the grafik QS. Apart from the integrated time clock and its wireless capabilities, what are the other advantages of it?

You could daisy chain a couple together with a jumper - not sure if that's a code nono though?

Daisy chains are fine. You could nut five wires (four neutrals and a jumper) together, and then another five wires (the other four neutrals plus the same jumper) together.

To get all of the grounds together, you can use a crimp ring.

Daisy chains are fine. You could nut five wires (four neutrals and a jumper) together, and then another five wires (the other four neutrals plus the same jumper) together.

To get all of the grounds together, you can use a crimp ring.

+1, crimp rings on grounds "are my friend" :rolleyes:

I didn't have 8, but still quite a few - I used these type of push-in wire "nuts":

http://www.goodmart.com/images/prodimages/ideal/1FS251.jpg

You could daisy chain a couple together with a jumper - not sure if that's a code nono though?

I know this is the Grafik Eye thread, but I have a Q on those push-in connectors.
I've used them, and like their convience.

My Q:
When you twist wires together you get a lotta surface area, and the nut when you twist it really secures that.
Seems robust and lotta electrons can get thru large surface area, no "hot spotting" issues.

Here, you get a small knife edge that grips the copper......which is "better" or more robust??

I know these had to go thru testing/etc, still.....

I'm not talking just ground wires here, but the black Hot wire and Neutral white wire. I don't ever use the push in connectors for plugs/sw either, I screw all my connections.

Thoughs from experts?
There have been no documented incidents from these?

Does anyone know of a motorized drapery/curtain system thats compatible with the 3106?... I now that Lutron sells theirs and I read Makita may work as well... any others?

SoulMan - I have installed a 3106 and a Makita Drapery system in my theater room. However, I operate the Makita directly using its IR control. I see little if any advantage of controlling the drapes through the Grafik Eye. I use a central RF/IR control system to control everything and have the macros timed internally to coordinate the drapes opening with the light dimming control settings. The Makita is a reliable unit and comes with IR control and clock timer control.

Jedi,

Whats the central RF/IR Control System you are using?..

...Universal Remote Control, I use MX-850 with MRF-300. Programming is done on personal computer. URC has much newer models out there and available, now.

I am really interested in getting one of these but so far Lutron has been much less then helpful with trying to give them money. I talked to the "Grafik Eye tech dept" and they basically said it might work it might not we have no idea. I sent them an e-mail with more detailed info and it has gone unaswered, great support. Any way I figure I will get much better help out of people that use it and really know something. My main concern is LED rope light dimming.

Zone 1) 2 incandescent lights at 75w each

Zone 2) 5 incandescent lights at 75w each

Zone 3) LED Rope light total of 60w. This is a link to the rope light I have which says it is dimmable ROPE LIGHT (http://www.cbconcept.com/110VLEDRopeB-66.aspx) . The rope light is currently controlled by a Leviton 6633-PLA slide dimmer Dimmer Spec (http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=178515&section=31116&minisite=10026). It has small locator light on it when the switch is off, when you turn the switch off the rope light would come on very dim. I turned the locator light off (has a switch for it) and then it worked perfect. So the LED rope light does seem to dim fine on a standard dimmer.

Zone 4) This needs to be a simple on/off to switch an outlet on and off. Plugged into the outlet is a transformer that powers a LED Light engine for a star ceiling

The PELV Terminal on my GE 3106 looks different compared to the newer models and the pics I have seen. It seems to take a specifc connection (harness) rather than the screw in bare wires. What type of PELV Connection (harness) is needed for this specific terminal..

Thanks..

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg239/jnt412/DSC02502.jpg

Hey guys,

Im getting close to needing a Grafik Eye installed and have a couple of questions.

I'd like to have 4 zones...

Pot lights for around my soffit.
Pot lights for above the screen.
Rope lighting for above the soffit.
And one for sconces (not sure if I'll actually install them).


My room is about 12X12... Do you think sconces would be necessary, or will the pot lights be enough lighting??

So now Im needing to buy a 3 or 4 zone Grafik Eye and I need to find where to buy these things. Is there a web site that most of you purchase them from?? If so, which website?? All the links on the #1 post give me the dreaded 404 error.

Thanks!

In case of a short circuit on one of the zones wired to the grafik eye, does the distribution panel circuit breaker (10A) does its job, or the grafik eye units gets burnt ?

In my case a short in one of the zones destroyed my grafik eye (GRX-3006).

I understand some models have some protection, but I'm looking for source to repair mine. Lutron was unable to help.

SoulMan - the white nylon mini-plug equipped with tiny wire connection screw clamps has been removed and is missing from this photo. It is supplied with the 3106 and any other Lutron GRX network devices. Suggest you call Lutron tech support and have them send you a couple.

SoulMan - the white nylon mini-plug equipped with tiny wire connection screw clamps has been removed and is missing from this photo. It is supplied with the 3106 and any other Lutron GRX network devices. Suggest you call Lutron tech support and have them send you a couple.

Thanks Jedi..

I called Lutron Support this past Saturday and was told that the missing connector is called a "Phoenix Connector". The Tech. had one, and it was shipped out the same day. It was also mentioned that this particular connector is common at Electrical Supply stores as well.

Hey guys,

Im getting close to needing a Grafik Eye installed and have a couple of questions.

I'd like to have 4 zones...

Pot lights for around my soffit.
Pot lights for above the screen.
Rope lighting for above the soffit.
And one for sconces (not sure if I'll actually install them).


My room is about 12X12... Do you think sconces would be necessary, or will the pot lights be enough lighting??

So now Im needing to buy a 3 or 4 zone Grafik Eye and I need to find where to buy these things. Is there a web site that most of you purchase them from?? If so, which website?? All the links on the #1 post give me the dreaded 404 error.

Thanks!

This is just my opinion, but depending on the size of the pot lights you might can bypass the scones due to the size of the room. Another factor would be if the pots where installed in the ceiling near the soffit or under the soffit. Ceiling install would make the lighting brighter due to height so I guess placement is a factor.

I purchased my GE on Ebay, but it was missing the Phoenix Connector but all zones have been tested individually and manual programming seem to work.

Thanks for your input. I think pot lights will be used and not sconces. But I'd still like a 4 zone Grafik Eye. I almost got one on eBay, but someone outbid me at the last minute (I hate eBay!!). I noticed on a previous link in this thread that said "since 2009, Lutron no longer supplies Grafik Eye's to shopping cart web sites." Is this true?? Where the heck can I buy one from??

Is the Lutron Grafik Eye GRX MR-3 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300535416558&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) the equivalent to the 3103??

Reason I'm asking is because I found one on eBay that comes with a NTGRX-4S. I'm itching to land one of these on eBay... I'm at the point in my build where I need a GE... BAD!!

Anyone know how the Grafik Eye Entrance Control - Ntgrx-1s actually works? Specifically, could I replace it with a two-way switch? I can't stand not being able to swipe my hand up the wall to turn the lights on, and instead hunting to find a button.

Anyone know how the Grafik Eye Entrance Control - Ntgrx-1s actually works? Specifically, could I replace it with a two-way switch? I can't stand not being able to swipe my hand up the wall to turn the lights on, and instead hunting to find a button.

That would be a no ct,

While the 1s is connected to the GE by regular electrical cable vs. the PELV that other modules use, it is still a module.

Hey guys,

So now Im needing to buy a 3 or 4 zone Grafik Eye and I need to find where to buy these things. Is there a web site that most of you purchase them from?? If so, which website?? All the links on the #1 post give me the dreaded 404 error.

Thanks!

Hello I have bought a bunch of stuff from Hanks Electric, You can find them here (http://www.hankselectric.net/)

They have great prices and have been really good to work with, and nope no affiliation :)

Jeff

The first post of this thread is pretty old. I have a Theater I am helping a friend with and he has a 4 gang box ready for a lutron unit. He has 5 zones so I assume getting a 6 Zone grafik eye would be recommended. However, there are a few different units and we are not sure what the right model is to get. The application is just to dim the lights via RF while in the theater.

The remote will be a URC of somekind TBD. Would it be more reasonable to buy 4 of URC's light dimmers to be used instead of a whole grafik eye?

Any comments are much appreciated.

For the latest and greatest check out the Grafik Eye QS line.
http://www.lutron.com/Products/SingleRoomControls/GrafikEyeQS/Pages/Overview.aspx

If you plan to use an RF remote and/or you do not have line of site for an IR signal you will need to run a wire from one of the remotes IR extender/repeater emitter port to the QS for remote control.

The first post of this thread is pretty old. I have a Theater I am helping a friend with and he has a 4 gang box ready for a lutron unit. He has 5 zones so I assume getting a 6 Zone grafik eye would be recommended. However, there are a few different units and we are not sure what the right model is to get. The application is just to dim the lights via RF while in the theater.

The remote will be a URC of somekind TBD. Would it be more reasonable to buy 4 of URC's light dimmers to be used instead of a whole grafik eye?

Any comments are much appreciated.

The GE 3000 series would work as well...

Hey Guys,

Manage to get a GRS-4006 online, not quite sure what it is, can't find any info on it either. The unit seems in mint condition, but there doesn't seem to be a module on the left hand side for the other half of the zones. Any idea why that is? Is that normal? And does anyone know what a GRS is?

Can I use one of these to send the ir signal to the 3103 unit stored in my closet? Or do I need the complete ir repeater unit?

http://www.smarthome.com/8130W/Buffalo-Electronics-IR-350-Round-Micro-IR-Sensor/p.aspx

Thanks Ron

Hey Guys,

Manage to get a GRS-4006 online, not quite sure what it is, can't find any info on it either. The unit seems in mint condition, but there doesn't seem to be a module on the left hand side for the other half of the zones. Any idea why that is? Is that normal? And does anyone know what a GRS is?

Here are some pics of the controller. The seller had mentioned GRS, when I opened the unit, it says GRX-4006 which I still can't seem to find info.

Let me know what you guys think, I took a picture of the side that doesn't seem to have any terminals.

http://i53.tinypic.com/4hcrh2.jpg

http://i55.tinypic.com/106fz1k.jpg

http://i52.tinypic.com/n4xelg.jpg

http://i56.tinypic.com/30m1ocm.jpg

http://i55.tinypic.com/200tm44.jpg

Hey Guys,

Manage to get a GRS-4006 online, not quite sure what it is, can't find any info on it either. The unit seems in mint condition, but there doesn't seem to be a module on the left hand side for the other half of the zones. Any idea why that is? Is that normal? And does anyone know what a GRS is?

It appears to be almost identical to a GRX-4100, so perhaps it is an older model?
Have a look here:
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/032165a.pdf

Hey Guys,

Manage to get a GRS-4006 online, not quite sure what it is, can't find any info on it either. The unit seems in mint condition, but there doesn't seem to be a module on the left hand side for the other half of the zones. Any idea why that is? Is that normal? And does anyone know what a GRS is?

Oh yeah, as for the missing connectors for zones 2, 4, 6 I can't
explain that. Do you have a photo from the side looking into
the unit where the terminal blocks are missing?

Oh yeah, as for the missing connectors for zones 2, 4, 6 I can't
explain that. Do you have a photo from the side looking into
the unit where the terminal blocks are missing?

Thanks Misko, I've attached more pictures here, it seems like it's made like that, nothing was ripped off. Funny enough, I originally bought from the same guy an 8 Zone controller and was identical, so I returned it and he swapped it with this one, but this one seems to have no terminals either on the same side...I'm clueless now and wondering if I should return it.

http://i52.tinypic.com/1q1m54.jpg

http://i55.tinypic.com/10qeb2c.jpg

Is the Belden 9740 rated for 600V? Do I need 2 runs of this wire for the hookup of the NTGRX-4S keypad or will 1 run suffice?
Thanks

Thanks Misko, I've attached more pictures here, it seems like it's made like that, nothing was ripped off. Funny enough, I originally bought from the same guy an 8 Zone controller and was identical, so I returned it and he swapped it with this one, but this one seems to have no terminals either on the same side...I'm clueless now and wondering if I should return it.


Very strange. Not sure what to tell you. I suppose you could call Lutron, they have great support and ask them what it is since it appears to have a legit Lutron sticker with a model number that can't be found...

Almost looks like a 2 zone unit in a 6 zone box, but the 2 zone PCB
is smaller.

Sorry, not much help I'm afraid.

OK, I have contacted Lutron in Louisville KY to get information on installing a 3 room system. They gave me a phone number to call a rep in Owensboro KY, I talked to him and he gave me 3 phone numbers of three sales places that are kind of close. He said you will probably end up talking with me again. I called the number that was suggested for a lighting place out of Paducah KY. I gave them the number of lights and a copy of the floor plan. I simply told them I need a list of components and prices.

This is the strangest company I've ever dealt with. I talked with the Paducah company last Wednesday and then called them back last Friday. They stated that they forwarded my email and plans to the guy in Owensboro. Then today I got a call asking what the wattage of my can lights will be because a sales rep was in the Paducah store.

I'm going to post a copy of the email I sent them and maybe someone may be kind enough to help me out. I told them maximum of 50 watts per can light and 100 watt max on pendants. Oh and this will be used with the GE Ethernet control interface, was told that if I need two GEs that one interface would work for both control units?


I'll try to break this down into rooms.

Theater- 8 Can Lights, Rope lighting on the ceiling 50' max, 3 lights connected together 100/ea watt max(like a strip of directional lights that will be on the floor pointed up towards the screen), 4 walkway/step lights in the steps.

Entry- 5 can lights

Media/Bar- 9 cans, 3 Pendants

As far as switches and pads I really dont know. I will need to talk with you all about how many and their locations. There will not be any in the actual theater. The wall in the entry room by the theater door is the intended location for the Grafik Eye unless it goes into the closet in the entry room.

I'll give you a call this afternoon.

Thanks
Alex

I want to control 6 lighting zones in my home theater and bar with Graffik eye 3106.
One of the zone has 6 Cree CR6 LED lights. I think each light uses 10.5 watts each.

Does 3106 support dimming Cree CR6 LED lights or do I have to add an additional part or upgrade to a newer QS model of Graffik eye.

thanks

One of the advantages of the QS seems to be its time clock - if I understand correctly, we could link several QSes around the house and when we are away our lights could go up and down on a time clock for security.

However from reading the manual it seems that the time clock is always enabled, and there isn't a simple way to disable it - eg a "we're here / we're on vacation" choice. It looks as though we would have to go through a complicated reprogramming sequence when we go away.

Am I understanding this correctly?

One of the advantages of the QS seems to be its time clock - if I understand correctly, we could link several QSes around the house and when we are away our lights could go up and down on a time clock for security.

However from reading the manual it seems that the time clock is always enabled, and there isn't a simple way to disable it - eg a "we're here / we're on vacation" choice. It looks as though we would have to go through a complicated reprogramming sequence when we go away.

Am I understanding this correctly?
No, don't think so.

Do you have a separate control system, with touchpanels?

I'm betting a scene switch could be programmed for it.

Any progress on the front door access, Ann? Can't PM you.

Dont know if it is the right place, but I'll try..

I have 2 Lutron Integrale controllers, synced together...had them for over 6-7 years, without a problem!
Recently, one of them started going on and off at crazy speed and eventually locked up! I kept using the other one (which provided more of the main lighting). This week it started going mad too!! Same pattern...after about an hour it starts switching on and off..and hen it locks. (Top two green light on) - same with other one.. Now both of them are dead (top two lights on, but nothing works)

Called Lutron only to find out that after guarantee period is over "you are on your own" !! They couldnt even suggest a service (??!) Just told me to buy a new one....:mad:

I am installing lots of AV gear and specifying lots of Grafik Eye controllers (over 20 in the last two years..) but I will stop doing that, for sure...

Anyone had similar problems?
Workarounds, tips? Service name & number in UK? Anything..

Hi all,

Is it possible to somehow control a Grafik eye 3106 with remote control BY ZONE, i.e. Raize/lower zone 3 only? Or are all available remote control mechanisms by SCENE only?

Looking for any possible solution (ir/rf/ethernet/rs232)

Thanks!

Re switching a QS into "vacation" or "we're away for the weekend" mode, enabling the timeclock; then disabling it again when we return:

I'm betting a scene switch could be programmed for it.
I have read the manual a couple more times and can't see how this can work. We could add a scene switch but can't see how that helps...???

Have you called Lutron? When you get to the right guy, he will tell you more than you ever wanted to know...

Seriously, Lutron customer support r0kz.

Hey Guys, Hopefully someone can help clarify something for me...

I picked up a GRX-2404 and wiring my theater for it. As far as I can see, it can be controlled with an IR Remote, but I'm installing a 4 Zone IR Controller from Xantech. I know the GRX-2404 is limited, but I guess the only real way on controlling this Grafik is having a really long emitter from the Xantech controller all the way to the Grafik Eye :eek:, or is there a cleaner and simpler way of doing it?

Lutron has a couple of IR receivers that sit on the GE data bus. But either way you'd still have to run a cable from the GE to where you can get your IR signal.

Lutron has a couple of IR receivers that sit on the GE data bus. But either way you'd still have to run a cable from the GE to where you can get your IR signal.

Are there any Lutron IR Receiver compatible with the GRX-2404?

At least that would be run behind the GE data bus and I can bring that to my controller. But at least you won't see an emitter stuck on the front of the GE keypad or is that what all GRX-2400 series owners are doing?

The emitter method is certainly cheaper. I believe if you look through this thread there is a post showing how with minimal visual impact.

GX 2000 and 3000 series data buses are compatible. For models, see the Lutron web site.

Has anyone used the Elemental LED flexible LED strips and dimmable magnetic transformer with a GE?

http://www.elementalled.com/12v-dimmable-driver.html
http://www.elementalled.com/flexible-led-lighting-by-the-foot.html

I've contacted Lutron and Elemental tech support and neither has tested with the others product and therefore won't confirm whether they will work together or not.

Elemental says they will be getting a GE to test with within a couple of months, but I need to move before then. I am looking for a LED strip and transformer that will work with GE to use as step lights on my riser lip above steps (~3 LEDs over each step).

Thanks,
DD

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1117148&highlight=saga+of+the+old&page=27

Your in luck DeaconDan,

Moggie from the thread above posted about using Elemental Led's in his build. I asked about he was powered them and in post 807 he responded that he had a zone for it on the GE but that if it didn't work that he would use some other dimmers. I believe he used the GE but you'll need to double check with him.

Thanks oman! I confirmed that Moggie does have a working GE and Elemental LED setup (see post on his thread here (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20645100#post20645100)).

Instead of the Elemental power supply, he used a ROAL Electronics dimmable LED driver (http://www.newark.com/roal-electronics/rldd015l-1000/15w-dimmable-led-driver/dp/69R7347?in_merch=Popular%20Products&MER=PPSO_N_P_EverywhereElse_None). At $28, it is much less expensive than the Elemental supply ($110) so I am planning to go with it.

I have a brushed Nickel faceplate for a GE, if anyone's interested (off a 3506 bu should work for any 2000 or 3000 series of the same dimensions). PM me.

I have the Universal MX980 remote control and the MSC 400 because my equipment is in a different room than the theater. The lights are controlled by Graphic Eye QS. The GE is connected to the MSC400 by a cat 5 cable and was working just fine via RF. I had the geek squad come out to deal with some other issues concerning the remote and by days end the remote would not work the lights via RF. Line of site with remote to the GE it works but that would mean getting out of your seat and pointing the remote directly at the GE on the wall. He tried everything and said that the cat 5 was sending the signal as he put a IR flasher on the end of the cat 5 and it illuminated. The remote works everything else in the equipment room without a hick up. He even talked with a tech rep form Lutron and bottom line they sent me a new one. I hooked the new one up and it still does not work RF. Geek squad is coming back out but any ideas on what might of happened? Any thing that might be in changed on his computer that would stop the GE from taking the RF signal.

Thanks,
Jim

...did you test to see if the flasher temporarily wired to the end of the cat5 would operate the QS while aimed directly at the front panel IR window? Could be sending corrupted IR signal.

GRX3000 inside the Media Room - Wall station - right behind the GRX mounted wall ( Entrance ) - GRX IRI at the Closet

Option 1:
Without Wirenuts
http://vimission.com/images/Option1.png

Option 2:
With Wirenuts
http://vimission.com/images/option2.png

GRX Mounting -- Masonry Box RAco 698 - Double Box Installation
NTGRX Mounting -- Home Depot http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/300/2d/2dbf8558-3139-4fab-9043-edb26ce47f1d_300.jpg
GRX-IRI Mounting ---???

Questions:

1. Option 1 or Option 2 or Both are wrong
2. PELV cable wiring needs to be run through conduit?? ( run through attic from room to closet equipment rack
3. GRX-IRI mounting -- best way to mount in wall...Clean installation with less work??

ANYONE HELP ME -- Option 1 is not working. Just installed this and checked with remote control, its not working...how to troubleshoot...please.

NTGRX-4S is working from the Wall Station,
Remote control works with Main GRX unit
Wiring 1,2,3,4 is ok. (Black-Com,Red-Power,white,green : Mux)

Update:
Connected the GRX-IRI directly yo Main Unit - IRI is not working...but those wires working for the Wall station control - which means Power is good and what else is good?

Update :
Read the Manual & threads

Set the Main Unit to A1
Set the GRX IRI to DIP Address 9 On
Now GRX IRI is working, But Wall Station is not working

Update:
Set the Wall Station Dip Switch to 1 on
Wall station :Press scene 1 and off for 3 seconds - led cycle starts
GE unit : hold the scene 1 3 seconds , LED cycle start
Wall station : press scene 1 and off
Address set

So far working,,....all through forum posts.thanks

..did you test to see if the flasher temporarily wired to the end of the cat5 would operate the QS while aimed directly at the front panel IR window? Could be sending corrupted IR signal.
Yesterday 02:51 PM

I do not know if the geek squad tech tried that idea or not. I will pass this along to him if I can ever get him back out to the house.

Thanks for your suggestion...

Gentlemen,

I tried with no luck to get answers from Lutron help desk, but I also received the 'maybe it works, maybe it doesn' answer.

I have a HotLink Pro IR repeater and wanted to control a Grafik Eye which is at the entrance of my HT using a universal remote control. The QS has an inside IR wire interface, but how would it work ?
Can I simply take one of my HotLink emiter LED cable, cut it and wire to the QS interface?

Thanks for your help

I have a HotLink Pro IR repeater and wanted to control a Grafik Eye which is at the entrance of my HT using a universal remote control. The QS has an inside IR wire interface, but how would it work ?
Can I simply take one of my HotLink emiter LED cable, cut it and wire to the QS interface?


I have the same IR repeater as you and a 3106 here, and I used some Cat5 cable to extend it, and rejoined the LED at the end of it. I then carefully cut and trimmed the inside front cover of the 3106 to fit the LED infront of the receiving LED, and placed the cover back on.

It all works great.

I think I got the idea from an image somewhere in this thread.

Hope it works for you.

Has anyone used a Rania Accessory Dimmer (RDSU-452) with a Grafik Eye instead of a Wallstation?

Hi, not sure if this is the best place to post but I'm looking to sell my Grafik eye (GRX-3106) and wander if its worth putting up on avsforums as Im in Australia and its 240V? Appreciate any thoughts...

Hi, not sure if this is the best place to post but I'm looking to sell my Grafik eye (GRX-3106) and wander if its worth putting up on avsforums as Im in Australia and its 240V? Appreciate any thoughts...



Try the dtvforums that we have over here, as they'd be your best bet.

I don't need one at the moment, but if it is at a good price I might be interested. ;)

I have the same IR repeater as you and a 3106 here, and I used some Cat5 cable to extend it, and rejoined the LED at the end of it. I then carefully cut and trimmed the inside front cover of the 3106 to fit the LED infront of the receiving LED, and placed the cover back on.

It all works great.

I think I got the idea from an image somewhere in this thread.

Hope it works for you.

I don't suppose you have any detailed photos of this? I'm having a hard time finding exactly how to wire the IR flasher and get it under the cover of the 3106.

I don't suppose you have any detailed photos of this? I'm having a hard time finding exactly how to wire the IR flasher and get it under the cover of the 3106.


There was an image in this thread from quite some time ago, but you can put the bare IR flasher underneather the front cover by doing some trimming with a sharp knife, and the front cover just bulges oh so very slightly.

Just about everyone never notices it, and in fact I have to look twice to really see which one I have it under (I have a 3104 and 3106 above each other, and the IR flasher is behind one of them, but not the other).

I'm working on my basement and I have a Grafik Eye 3104 (? - I know it's a 4-zone 3000 series, but it's not in front of me right now). I'd like to do LED recessed lighting, but it looks like I'll have to put in an ELVI for each circuit, since it looks like the LED fixtures I've seen are electronic dimming. Has anybody here found any magnetic dimming LED recessed lights?

Not sure if there are many International readers in here, but I'm in Australia and am interested in purchasing a 4-zone Grafix Eye 3000, but locally the best price I can see is around $1770, which seems crazy.

There are UK sites selling them for £366 http://www.cwlighting.co.uk/files/details.php?id=210($570US), not including delivery, or US sites on Amazon for around $700US.

Does anyone have some knowledge on whether they would work in Australia (we use 240V), or does the voltage difference make it unworkable?

Thanks guys,

Hey TheSly

I bought my GE QS from the UK and it works fine.

Cheers
Simon

Hey TheSly

I bought my GE QS from the UK and it works fine.

Cheers
Simon

Oops I'm in Australia

Hey TheSly

I bought my GE QS from the UK and it works fine.

Cheers
Simon

Thanks mate, just the info I was after. Appreciate the PM too, very helpful.

A more general question if others can assist pls. I want to control an electric screen, the projector on/off and 3 light zones (rope, soffit, cabinet), so thought the 3000 range was where I should be looking. After emailing resistor.co.uk I was informed I would be better off buying the QS as I would need an additional device to do the projector/screen with the std 3000.

Does anyone have any information on what's required, and considering the QS is more expensive up front, if that advice is accurate? I've checked Lutron's site and can't see any specifics mentioned regarding the extra hardware.

Thanks,

Guys I have a Lutron Grafik Eye GRX-3104 and would like to connect a wall plate to it.

It looks like some kind of socket is missing to connect the cables running to the wall plate. Can anyone advise where can I get such a socket?

http://www.upload.ee/image/1962295/photo.JPG

Hello,

I'm just finishing up new theater and need some advice with a 3104 and a Harmony remote. The 3104 is on the the side wall, 12ft from the screen. I have the low voltage wiring ran to behind my screen where my Niles repeater system is. Is there a cheap way to 1) get a generic IR reciever so I can stick a flasher on it or 2) directly connect to the Niles box without essentially setting up two repeaters.

This may be all mute if the GE has a good IR reciever on the wall unit and will take a commands bouncing off the screen.

Thanks in advance,

Chris

Interested in finding out how people are running their GE's with LED lighting, particulary what LED drivers that work with the GE's.

Very interested in drivers that work on 220-240v 50Hz(being Austrailian based) , or is it possible to run their through iron core transformers down to 12v ????

LED lighting now appears to have matured in to a viable option these days.


Thanks.

Interested in finding out how people are running their GE's with LED lighting, particulary what LED drivers that work with the GE's.

Very interested in drivers that work on 220-240v 50Hz(being Austrailian based) , or is it possible to run their through iron core transformers down to 12v ????

LED lighting now appears to have matured in to a viable option these days.


Thanks.

I'm doing just that now. My GE QS wireless arrived from the UK a few days ago, and have been looking for an LED option. I grabbed a Bunnings Osram LED to test so will wire it up and see if it works. I also have read online here http://whrl.pl/RciPPQ about the coolmax globes which seem to work too.

I'm trying to find someone in Sydney who can assist me with the install, as it seems many electricians/lighting places have never heard of the GE.

Following up on using LED with the GE I've discovered a few things.

An LED rope light I purchased from the UK worked, but had the 'pop in/out' at 5%-10% power that plagues all LED's I've seen. I solved it by adding a halogen to the zone, so now it powers on/off gradually to 0% nice and smoothly, instead of off/on at %5 power. I need to explore if there is another way to do this, as I don't want to run a halogen along with the LED rope at the same time just to solve this problem.
I also tested some 10w LED downlights and they had the same pop in/out when turning on. A single light also flickered at low power, but once I used 3 lights the 25w minimum requirement was met, and they turned on at low power without the flicker, but I still couldn't solve the pop in/out, even with a halogen running on the zone as well. They may need to be returned and I may go for halogen only for that zone.

Anyone else have experience with GE's and LED?

I vaguely remember reading something about a minimum zone load of I think 40 watts, and this may be part of the issue you are experiencing. I'm sure someone in here will correct me if I am wrong about the 40w per zone minimum. ;)


I'm actually looking for something LED to replace what I was sold as starbursts, which take a 20w bi-pin halogen. They are only about 12mm (half inch) reflector, and fit flush in the ceiling. Not sure of the angle of illumination, but appears to be quite narrow.
I've got around 30 of these dotted around my ceiling in a number of different zones.

Of course these won't be the only fittings I'll be replacing.

I vaguely remember reading something about a minimum zone load of I think 40 watts, and this may be part of the issue you are experiencing.

Thanks for replying, but I'm achieving the minimum with the extra 50w halogen, and it still doesn't work, so I don't think the minimum is the issue.

Guys I have a Lutron Grafik Eye GRX-3104 and would like to connect a wall plate to it.

It looks like some kind of socket is missing to connect the cables running to the wall plate. Can anyone advise where can I get such a socket?

http://www.upload.ee/image/1962295/photo.JPG

Check out post #1117 in this thread. I had a siimiliar question as well. Basically, that port takes what is called a, "Phoenix Connector". You connect a PELV (Class 2) cable to it for adding more wall stations.. etc.

Anyone else have experience with GE's and LED?

Well I have been told from the supplier that Lutron offer a solution that artifically increases the load. A power booster, and an LED booster. Total cost for both is around $300US, so it's not something I'm keen on. I'll just use halogens instead I think.

Next thing to look at is how the GE controls the projector power and electric screen. Does anyone have information on setting this up please?

...I control a 60 ft LED ropelight directly with a GE3106 with absolutely no issues.

...I control a 60 ft LED ropelight directly with a GE3106 with absolutely no issues.

How are you doing so? Is The strip plugged into an outlet and the outlet to the GE?

...the LED rope light runs around the overhead soffit perimeter and is direct wired to one of the GE zones, connected above via a junction box. The zone is configured within the GE as incandescent, and operates smoothly without any sort of interface device.

...the LED rope light runs around the overhead soffit perimeter and is direct wired to one of the GE zones, connected above via a junction box. The zone is configured within the GE as incandescent, and operates smoothly without any sort of interface device.

I find this intriguing. So when you go from 100% to 0% there is a uniform fading the entire way, as in it doesn't get to around 5%-10% light output and then turn off when the GE clicks?

Hey guys,
Just some advice from those who have already been there if I may. I want to run a projector and screen as one zone. I'm looking at the wiring required for this. Do I just run a cat5e from both to the GE, and attach them to the 12v input? Or do they run into the zone?
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks

can someone tell me which inputs my electrician needs to use for the IR and wall station?

I have 2 pelv wires ran to the junction box, one for IR going to a gateway for irule and the other for walls stations.

Its the QSGRJ-6P

Have a GRX3104 and want to dim flexible LED strips with it. Do I need a dimmable LED driver or not? Anybody have experience with this?