You can also fix it by swapping tuners. It's a bug in the current firmware rev.Which firmware revision? I thought I knew all the bugs in these things, but this is a new one on me. <g>

thought I knew all the bugs in these things, but this is a new one on me.Keep up, eh!

I have 12.26 - digital audio drops out, usually after a Pause, Replay, FF or REW operation. Corrects after tuner swap or power cycle. Don't know what happens to the analog audio as I don't use it.

Keep up, eh!

I have 12.26 - digital audio drops out, usually after a Pause, Replay, FF or REW operation. Corrects after tuner swap or power cycle. Don't know what happens to the analog audio as I don't use it.Ah, my area went directly from 12.18 to 12.31, so I guess I missed that bug.

Is the experiment with the large hard disks still going on?

Or has it been conclusively proven that no matter what size one is installed, the maximum usable space is 160GB ?

Keep up, eh!

I have 12.26 - digital audio drops out, usually after a Pause, Replay, FF or REW operation. Corrects after tuner swap or power cycle. Don't know what happens to the analog audio as I don't use it.

Well I just checked and I've got 12.31... New Bug??? :(

Is the experiment with the large hard disks still going on?Yes.has it been conclusively proven that no matter what size one is installed, the maximum usable space is 160GB ?No.

Yes.
No.
Ahh, good. Keep us informed!

Well I just checked and I've got 12.31... New Bug??? :(I've got 12.31 too. No audio bugs now but, it just goes blank sometimes now,NEVER done this before. Turning it off and back on quickly seems to work. Annoying though....

I've seen that "blank screen", too- usually when I first wake up and turn the TV on (DVR is always on). Hitting "swap" tends to fix it. Seems as if they've traded one problem (that frankly, can't be that hard to solve) for another.

I've tried to goth through all 1259 messages in this thread. Whew! What a thread. I'll be switching to the Comcast HD DVR, which presumably means a Motorola 6512. Can anyone confirm that there is no way for Comcast customers to add storage to this DVR? 15 hours is just not going to be enough!

Can anyone confirm that there is no way for Comcast customers to add storage to this DVR? 15 hours is just not going to be enough!If you get a DCT6412 (with 120GB) it's very simple to swap the internal drive for a 160GB SATA unit which provides up to 26.5hrs of HD. OTOH, if you may be lucky and get a DCT6416 which already has the 160GB drive.

I'm working on getting larger drives (ie. 500GB) to work but that will be more of a trick. ;)

Stay posted.

Stay posted.

Oh trust me... I am!

I have a 300gb SATA just waiting for how to make this work. Sick of deleting stuff all the time to make room because I record a lot of HD material.

... Motorola 6512. Can anyone confirm that there is no way for Comcast customers to add storage to this DVR? 15 hours is just not going to be enough!
Moto 6412 or 3412.

Remember you are RENTING/LEASING the box and part of the contract is that you give it back to COMCAST in the condition you received it :) otherwise COMCAST will charge you $675 for it :(

If you do change the drive (as others will tell you how) remember to re-install the original if you have to give the box back to COMCAST.

And ensure that all evidence of your changes are erased ;)

Does anyone have any idea when the external SATA port will become active? I don't want to risk being charged for the box when replacing the internal HD.

Does anyone have any idea when the external SATA port will become active? I don't want to risk being charged for the box when replacing the internal HD.

Comcast has NOT announced they will be activating this port, and they aren't going to. It's not gonna become active.

My box has a sticker that I know won't peel off, and covers the gap between the top cover piece and bottom piece. I MIGHT be able to get the top piece off and carefully lay it next to the bottom to keep the sticker together, but I'm not risking $675 on it!

Besides I have a PII, so I can't even do it! Probably better for me, as being an engineer I always want to tinker with things if they work right, to make them faster/better

Remember you are RENTING/LEASING the boxThis is true if you are a Comcast customer but not everyone is.

Either way, old_man is correct - don't damage the box in the process because if you haven't already bought the box, you will! ;)

I remember reading somewhere that the 6412 phase III does a better job than its predecessors with the analog channels. Sure, I know, who wants to watch them anyways; but sometimes it can't be helped. Is there validity to this?

At this time I have the DVI phase I, and am wondering about the benefits of the upgrade swap.

I remember reading somewhere that the 6412 phase III does a better job than its predecessors with the analog channels. Sure, I know, who wants to watch them anyways; but sometimes it can't be helped. Is there validity to this?

At this time I have the DVI phase I, and am wondering about the benefits of the upgrade swap.

A month ago I switched from D* to Midcontinent Digital cable, I got two 6412 PIII and I'd say the analog is as good if not better than D* standard def channels, HD channels are better also.

Cavu,

Any update on your attempts to use SATA internal drives larger than 160GB? I'm itching to find out if massive storage space can be a reality with this box.

I live 2 1/2 miles from the Cable Head End and yest for me ANALOG is way better that the SAT SD channels.

It all depends on your neiborhood. Analog is always better than a Digital wave signal if your real close to the head end. Trouble is most in American are far away from there cable head ends.

Test and compare before deciding between SAT and Cable I alway say.

Any update on your attempts to use SATA internal drives larger than 160GB?We have determined that the formatting firmware in the 6412P3 has no lookup tables larger than 160GB so are embarking on a mechanism to format/partition the larger drives externally. Also, the larger drives do consume considerably more power/heat and must be carefully selected with regard to 6412 power supply and cooling.

Should know more about the formatting/partitioning shortly.

My 300GB drive runs a little hotter but nothing to be concerned about.

I was wondering what the best way to hook the audio up is for this device I plan on connecting it to my Sony A10 series TV with a Componet cable but how about audio? run and optical cable from the tv to the 6412 and the RCA to my receiver or vise versa optical cable to receiver and rca to tv? Any help would be great.
currently using my only HDMI port with my DVD player

For dolby digital run an optical or digital coax from the box to your a/v receiver. I also run a composite audio cable to my TV for when I don't want to use my receiver.

This past Tuesday, I just got a phase III box to replace the original 6412(phase 1?).

Beside the popping when changing channels(probably related to my Ref 50 preamp), to my eye, the contrast is slightly higher (a good thing), better gradation in tones in dark areas, and horizontal pans appear to be cleaner with very little breakup in vertical and diagonal lines.

One negative that carried over from the original 6412 DVR is that if the incoming signal is a little too strong, I get audio dropouts, and video freezes/tiling, so, using a splittler to drop the strength of the signal is still needed. I would have thought that Motorola would have worked that out by now.

One negative that carried over from the original 6412 DVR is that if the incoming signal is a little too strong, I get audio dropouts, and video freezes/tiling, so, using a splittler to drop the strength of the signal is still needed. I would have thought that Motorola would have worked that out by now.

I thought the source of the problems you describe was a weak signal... :confused:

renpar61,

On my cable system, Brighthouse, too strong a signal is just as bad as too weak a signal when it comes to the 6412 DVR.

My problem AFAIK, stems from too strong a signal.

renpar61,

On my cable system, Brighthouse, too strong a signal is just as bad as too weak a signal when it comes to the 6412 DVR.

My problem AFAIK, stems from too strong a signal.

Interesting. I have some of the same issues and thinking it might have been a weak signal, I tried to add a signal booster, with no success. Let me ask you this: did you check your signal levels in the diagnostics menu? In my case, when I get pixelation and audio drops, the db figures in the signal level are constantly changing at a blazing speed. When the numbers are more steady, the PQ seems to be OK. It happens quite frequently, but with no specific pattern (or channel) that I can identify. Does it sound to you like a too strong a signal symptom?

renpar61,

I wasn't aware that there was a diagnostic section in the 6412 (discussion must have come up after the first 12 pages I read.lol)

The cable guy used a device to measure the incoming signal for each channel that in would input into the control panel of his device. He could see that the incoming signal was about 7 dbs high and added a 3 way splitter in which 2 of the oupts reduced strength by 3 dbs and the 3rd one reduced the signal by 7 dbs. What may be the fly in the ointment was that there was still one channel(don't know which) that still read high. My bet is that that particular station being sent out higher than the other HD stations may be the cause of the problems. Probably something they need to fix upstream.

As to a fluctuating signal, how much is it fluctuating??

I wasn't aware that there was a diagnostic section in the 6412Press Power "OFF" and then "OK" ("Select") in quick succession.

renpar61,

I wasn't aware that there was a diagnostic section in the 6412 (discussion must have come up after the first 12 pages I read.lol)

The cable guy used a device to measure the incoming signal for each channel that in would input into the control panel of his device. He could see that the incoming signal was about 7 dbs high and added a 3 way splitter in which 2 of the oupts reduced strength by 3 dbs and the 3rd one reduced the signal by 7 dbs. What may be the fly in the ointment was that there was still one channel(don't know which) that still read high. My bet is that that particular station being sent out higher than the other HD stations may be the cause of the problems. Probably something they need to fix upstream.

As to a fluctuating signal, how much is it fluctuating??

It's between 33db and 37db (both in the GOOD range), what's surprising to me is that it's not a permanent issue. When the signal level is steady it stays at about 36db

Update: tried a signal attenuator, signal dropped about 3 db (still in the good range) but bumped my AGC to 78% (poor) with a lot more errors. I guess I'm not suffering from too strong a signal...

cavu,

Will the 6412 format larger drives to maximum 160 GB and still work or will it reject the drive completely?

renpar61

At one time, I also tried a signal attenuator. For whatever reason, it didn't work. Had to use a splitter for it to drop the signal correctly.

Will the 6412 format larger drives to maximum 160 GB and still work or will it reject the drive completely?The 6412P3 has limited lookup tables and will only currently format to 160MB (even if the drive is larger) but we are working on a method to externally format/partition larger drives. The 6412P3 does not "reject" larger disks. If you get a great deal on a larger drive, use it as a 160GB in the short term and cross your fingers that we can get it working to its full capacity. :cool: But be careful of power requirements and heat dissipation.

I'm experiencing an interesting sound issue on Phase 3 box. Current setup is HDMI-DVI cable to TV and Optical cable to reciever. This has worked well for almost 6 months. Recently I have noticed the following -

On one tuner on SD channels I will get no sound, but will recieve Dolby Digital 2.0 signal being sent, if I change channels to an HD channel (5.1 or 2.0) or an SD channel with Dolby 5.1 I get sound. If I switch tuners and go to the original Dolby 2.0 SD channel I get full sound. Very strange, also seems to impact recorded content some how, although I have only seen this once and can't replicate.

Anyone else seen this? Something I'm missing in the configuration/settings that might fix this? I did a search and haven't seen anything.

Thanks,

Jeff

Atlanta has FINALLY updated the firmware to 12.32 so if you want to hook up HDMI and optical audio for 5.1 surround it works now!

Wow, I just finished reading this complete thread. I am an Adelphia subscriber in central PA and they just got the Phase III boxes. I currently have a Phase II box. I was disappointed to find out that the SATA port is disabled and prospects are bleak for it being enabled anytime soon.

I want to start archiving shows by connecting the DCT6412 to my PC via the firewire port. I haven't read the complete thread on the Phase II box, but I assume the firewire port is active and shows can be archived to a PC using the methods described in other threads? Are the firewire ports on the Phase III active? Can the same process be used for archiving shows to a PC?

My cable provider in Frederick MD is also Adelphia and I lease from them the Motorola 6412 Phase III HD-DVR box. I regularly dump recorded programming off the DVR to my laptop (via the Firewire ports).

Only problem is that the DVR doesn't really work properly after a transfer (example: fast-forwarding through a program doesn't work, and other glitches and slow-downs). I have to pull the AC plug in the back for a few seconds to force a cold reboot.

This restores the DVR to normal operations, but it also means that it can take up to two days to fully repopulate the guide data out two weeks.

I've noticed that too after hooking it up to my DVHS machine. Easy way around that is to power down the DVR with the power button, turn on the firewire device (laptop in your case, DVHS in mine), then turn on the DVR again. Since the firewire source is on when the DVR boots up, it seems to behave a lot better during and after the recording. At least in my case anyway. This should save you from having to unplug it and losing all your guide data.

Good Luck!!!

Wow, I just finished reading this complete thread. I am an Adelphia subscriber in central PA and they just got the Phase III boxes. I currently have a Phase II box. I was disappointed to find out that the SATA port is disabled and prospects are bleak for it being enabled anytime soon.

I want to start archiving shows by connecting the DCT6412 to my PC via the firewire port. I haven't read the complete thread on the Phase II box, but I assume the firewire port is active and shows can be archived to a PC using the methods described in other threads? Are the firewire ports on the Phase III active? Can the same process be used for archiving shows to a PC?

golferadam-

The firewire ports should be active on the PIII. If they are not you can try to complain to your local Comcast since they HAVE to be enabled per an FCC mandate. I've heard once people get to a higher up at their local office and refer to the FCC and/or bring copies of the documents, they get serious and help you out(imagine that!)

I've only got a PII, but have had success following the huge thread that details how to capture to the PC. The 1st post has all the info you need. Good luck! Post specific questions in that large thread, many of us who read that one have gotten it to work.

I haven't read the complete thread on the Phase II box, but I assume the firewire port is active and shows can be archived to a PC using the methods described in other threads?

Works fine with my PII, as long as copy once isn't on, a la HBO.

Any way to program a 15-minute skip with the 6412 PIII?

The 30-second skip feature on my TiVo has a dual-function. If you are watching a program at normal speed, the skip button jumps ahead 30 seconds. If you are fast-forwarding through a program at any speed, the skip button jumps ahead 15 minutes.

This is a really useful feature if you want to quickly move through a program. Example -- I recorded an entire basketball game on the 6412, but because of time constraints wanted to watch the first quarter than quickly skip up to the beginning of the fourth quarter. With the 15-minute skip, this would have been a few clicks of a button. Having to fast-forward at high speed took multiple minutes.

Is any sort of multi-minute skip feature programmable?

Any way to program a 15-minute skip with the 6412 PIII?

The 30-second skip feature on my TiVo has a dual-function. If you are watching a program at normal speed, the skip button jumps ahead 30 seconds. If you are fast-forwarding through a program at any speed, the skip button jumps ahead 15 minutes.

This is a really useful feature if you want to quickly move through a program. Example -- I recorded an entire basketball game on the 6412, but because of time constraints wanted to watch the first quarter than quickly skip up to the beginning of the fourth quarter. With the 15-minute skip, this would have been a few clicks of a button. Having to fast-forward at high speed took multiple minutes.

Is any sort of multi-minute skip feature programmable?

I do not believe it is possible using any technique to skip ahead chunks of programming at a time (for instance, to move in quarters of a show). It is really annoying, especially considering its been this way for several years since they introduced the DVR. You'd think with everyone complaining about it, and given that its such a basic requirement and expectation, that they would have offered this as a feature by now.

I'm very frustrated with this DVR in general. It does a lot of things right and generally works well. But its full of quirks and shortcomings that make it really annoying to use on a daily basis. For instance, no way to easily switch between 720p vs. 1080i, delayed response (where the DVR falls asleep for 30+ seconds before processing all your remote commands), slow FF/REW speeds even at the highest levels, and so on. None of these are issues with HD TiVo. Hopefully the TiVo service will become available via Comcast sooner rather than later if at all.

New problem I've not read about.

When you turn the TV on, it comes up with the input graphic listing that the input is set to cable box. This is correct.

However, this is displayed on a black screen with no volume. Kind of like if you had it input from a DVD that was turned off.

You can't input a channel, scroll up on channels, etc. Nothing.

However, if I go to the DVR -- as if to watch a recorded show -- then stop the DVR playback it will then display the proper channel and work as normal.

I've always left the box on and never a problem.

Any ideas?

New problem I've not read about.

When you turn the TV on, it comes up with the input graphic listing that the input is set to cable box. This is correct.

However, this is displayed on a black screen with no volume. Kind of like if you had it input from a DVD that was turned off.

You can't input a channel, scroll up on channels, etc. Nothing.

However, if I go to the DVR -- as if to watch a recorded show -- then stop the DVR playback it will then display the proper channel and work as normal.

I've always left the box on and never a problem.

Any ideas?

Just try a good ol' reboot by pulling the plug, that solves a lot of little bugs. If you can't stand being w/o current guide data for like 30 minutes, then do it right before you go to bed, or work during the day.

I can skip 15mins at a time on my 64XX boxes by hitting the appropriate "joystick" button ("Left" while rewinding, "Right" while fast-forwarding) during fast motion. Have you tried this?

I can skip 15mins at a time on my 64XX boxes by hitting the appropriate "joystick" button ("Left" while rewinding, "Right" while fast-forwarding) during fast motion. Have you tried this?
I don't have a Comcast remote (which you may or may not have), but I tried various combinations of "left" and "right" direction-button presses on my Adelphia remote and on my Harmony 720 remote* while doing a RW and FF and all I got was faster FF (going from F1 to F2, then F3 ...) or faster RW.

Perhaps if you were to describe in detail your procedure (and your remote), myself and others here might be able to figure out what works and how we might use it also.

*I could see the Adelphia remote be sufficiently jiggered to not allow the 15-minute skip, but the Harmony remote is purportedly able to access every command that the 6412 PIII will respond to, whether most folks know about that command or not.

Like most of you, I programmed the Comcast remote to do the 30 second skip. I also had programmed a 90 second skip macro. When I switched all of my event activity to a Harmony 676, I wanted that 90 sec command but had to switch to "teach mode." While teaching the Harmony that command, it keep missing most of the macro and interpreted it as 30 sec. Finally, while holding the Comcast button down for an extended push, I got lucky.

The recorded command is a piece of work. When I press this Harmony button quickly, it will skip 30 sec. If I hold it longer it will begin to skip larger blocks of time. You have to watch the DVR timeline for it is too fast to fantom on the screen. I can do 15 minutes in less than 15 seconds.

Like most of you, I programmed the Comcast remote to do the 30 second skip. I also had programmed a 90 second skip macro. When I switched all of my event activity to a Harmony 676, I wanted that 90 sec command but had to switch to "teach mode." While teaching the Harmony that command, it keep missing most of the macro and interpreted it as 30 sec. Finally, while holding the Comcast button down for an extended push, I got lucky.

The recorded command is a piece of work. When I press this Harmony button quickly, it will skip 30 sec. If I hold it longer it will begin to skip larger blocks of time. You have to watch the DVR timeline for it is too fast to fantom on the screen. I can do 15 minutes in less than 15 seconds.

That turned out pretty handy.

I got mine last week, love it. I'm using The HDMI port, it's very nice to use just one cable and the PQ is great. It's very handy having DVR/cable in one box, but I have aquetion. I want to use the video input port, how do I do that? I can't find the menu for that function.
TIA

The video input is not active, sorry. You'll notice on the newer 3412's they don't even have them installed:(

The 6412P3 has limited lookup tables and will only currently format to 160MB (even if the drive is larger) but we are working on a method to externally format/partition larger drives. The 6412P3 does not "reject" larger disks. If you get a great deal on a larger drive, use it as a 160GB in the short term and cross your fingers that we can get it working to its full capacity. :cool: But be careful of power requirements and heat dissipation.

hey cavu, thanks for all your work on this so far. any more information regarding the ability to externally format a larger drive and have it work in the moto box at full capacity?

Perhaps if you were to describe in detail your procedure (and your remote)
Ah. I don't have 6412s in L.A. (ComCast), this is on the 6412 (and 6416) I have in the OC on Cox running Passport 2.X .

Since it's the same Motorola remote, it must be a function of the underlying DVR software system.

The video input is not active, sorry. You'll notice on the newer 3412's they don't even have them installed:(
Thank you,
It might sound silly but I wanted to copy some programs from my replay to the 6412 since I won't be using my replay any longer. :(

Anselmo,

Use the 6412 as storage? Does it have enough space to be doing that??

Anselmo,
Use the 6412 as storage? Does it have enough space to be doing that??
No, I just wanted to temporarily store some stuff until I got some other storage media.

What's the main differences between the 3412 and 6412?

What's the main differences between the 3412 and 6412?

The 6412 does both Analog Cable signals and Digital Cable Signals.

The 3412 Only does Digital Signals..... (NO Analog)

yeah somehow we have a 3412 adn i didn't even know we had all digital. Not sure if its I or II but it works great.

I've kept an older box i forget which model for my other tv with DVI as the box has DVI and that way i dont have to use an HDMI to DVI cable. Even it is no diff i feel better going DVI to DVI.

Problem is the box has problems a lot and now it always freezes and delays. When we hit buttons on the remote it doesnt' work and youjust have to keep hitting it until it does like 5 times at least. and sometimes it does all the button presses at once ,

i dont know if its just the remote/batteries so i will try new bats and diff remote first but i think the box could be part of it as it has been a problem before.

I guess what i want to know is what is the best newest box that has DVI so i dont have to use hdmi to dvi cable, though that may be inevitable if i can't hold out until i just get a second new HDMi tv and new box.

though then we will lose a lot of recorded programs.

So in summary, what might be causing the box not to take input from the remote and again what would be teh newest best box that still has DVI if they even sill have any to give customers as i have a feeling they just automatically give the newest boxes.

The 6412 does both Analog Cable signals and Digital Cable Signals.

The 3412 Only does Digital Signals..... (NO Analog)
The 3412 also eliminated all of the A/V inputs (they were typically disabled anyways), the front panel USB and SmartCard slot, and probably other internal changes to cut costs.

Thank you,
It might sound silly but I wanted to copy some programs from my replay to the 6412 since I won't be using my replay any longer. :(

Not silly at all, and if they had activated the ports you may well have been able to do that:(

Hey scanpa, any update on when to expect TiVo on the CC boxes in this area? I'd LOVE to be a BETA tester for those.

Not silly at all, and if they had activated the ports you may well have been able to do that:(

Hey scanpa, any update on when to expect TiVo on the CC boxes in this area? I'd LOVE to be a BETA tester for those.

I have been out on Vacation for the last 12 days, so will find out if there is any news when I go in on Monday.

Well I ordered one of these and I'm not having any luck with the 3412's screws. The tool fit only loosely around the screws and began slipping without turning them. I didn't look very carefully at the tool before starting, but looking at it now it doesn't look as sharply defined as the picture. The screw heads are not very deep and I don't see how the tool would turn them unless it caught securely in the perimeter grooves.

Is there some trick to this? I guess I must have stripped the tool, but I'm not sure why.

If I have to order another one, is the cheaper version in a subsequent post the same?
Did you ever get the 3412 open with the security bit?

Did you ever get the 3412 open with the security bit?

The security bit seems to fit a bit loosely, and I seem to have partially stripped the screw and bit by not pressing down hard enough initially. I replaced the bit and managed to get the other two screws out grudgingly. I don't know if the 3412 has different screws than the 6412, or if my expectations on how well the bit should work are just too high.

I'm not sure how I will I get the partially stripped one out. At any rate I decided to wait and see if Cavu manages to figure out the disk format and gets a larger disk to work before proceeding.

no news means no luck with a bigger harddrive?

no news means no luck with a bigger harddrive?No, it means that I have been out of the country and have had no time to deal with this project.

No, it means that I have been out of the country and have had no time to deal with this project.



Well, I consider that to be good news! At least there is a chance to upgrade the drive.

Thanks for the fast response!

No, it means that I have been out of the country and have had no time to deal with this project.

Any tidbits on what you learned so far? Did you have a chance to look at the disk label or identify any filesystem type?

Any tidbits on what you learned so far? Did you have a chance to look at the disk label or identify any filesystem type?I have only made preliminary arrangements with friends in the *nix to do that as my own efforts to assemble a box have stalled due to lack of available time. Will advise.

Can one connect the 6412, at the same time, to a tv (via Component cables) and also a projector (via hdmi)? I will have only the tv or pj on at a given time.

Can one connect the 6412, at the same time, to a tv (via Component cables) and also a projector (via hdmi)?All of the outputs are active at the same time.

cavu: Thanks! Bill

Can one connect the 6412, at the same time, to a tv (via Component cables) and also a projector (via hdmi)? I will have only the tv or pj on at a given time.
Generally yes, but be aware that both sources must support the same video format as both outputs will be identical.

Thanks for the various comments. I did hook up the projector, via DVI, and it works just fine. I can switch from the tv display of the cable, or the projector display of it, simply by turning off the tv and turning on the projector, or vice versa. [I have a Mits 73" dlp rptv, but wanted to try out a projector just to see if I might want to go to a front projection set-up.]

New to this thread and hoping for some help. Apologies if answer has been posted before. I've tried scanning the thread to no avail. here's my question...

My Set up: DENON AVR 4306, DENON DVD 3910, Pioneer 1130. Comcast Cable Motorola HD DVR Box DCT 6412 III. I presently feed everything into my 4306 and have one HDMI output to the 1130.

I cant seem to connect my Motorola cable box to my 4306 with an HDMI cable. I get picture and sound for about 3 seconds. Then I get an error message on the AVR that says "the set top does not support HD content protected repeaters". Then the screen goes green and i only get sound. Anybody familiar with this issue and how to correct it? Everything works find with composite cables and an optical for sound.

Thank you.

Ed

My Set up: DENON AVR 4306, DENON DVD 3910, Pioneer 1130. Comcast Cable Motorola HD DVR Box DCT 6412 III. I presently feed everything into my 4306 and have one HDMI output to the 1130.

I cant seem to connect my Motorola cable box to my 4306 with an HDMI cable. I get picture and sound for about 3 seconds. Then I get an error message on the AVR that says "the set top does not support HD content protected repeaters". Then the screen goes green and i only get sound. Anybody familiar with this issue and how to correct it? Everything works find with composite cables and an optical for sound.
Unfortunately, if you want a digital video feed, you will need to connect it DIRECTLY to the TV. Per the error message, Motorola currently doesn't support passing the HDCP protected signal through another device, yet. Maybe a firmware update in the future will fix it.

Yep, andyross63 has it right. It's a "nogo" for the "moto" when trying to connect through a "repeater" device such as an AVR (ANY AVR as far as I know). It's really a sore point and source of frustration for many of us. :mad: :mad: :mad:

In case you are interested there are several threads devoted to this topic in both this forum and audioholics.com (not to mention several others I have seen but don't have links to). Various posts in these threads discuss options and workarounds such as that mentioned by andyross63, but there is no real solution at this time. See these links....

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=649941

http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21194

FWIW -- I have chosen the option of connecting the Moto 6412 to my Pio 72 via component and then have just one HDMI cable from the Pio to my Panny HDTV -- still using the Pio to switch/transcode all video signals to HDMI. Of course, since there is no audio signal in component video (as there is in HDMI), this solution also requires using the digital audio output from the Moto to the Pio -- for which I use one of my opitcal inputs.

But as mentioned I'm living with component video from the Moto 6412. However, I have to admit that my eyes find it hard to see any significant difference between component and HDMI on my HDTV, so this solution works for me. But just on principle I am angry that Moto, Comcast, etc don't have a full digital solution available.

Thanks for the rapid reply, i was afraid that was going to be the answer.

I know this is not the calibration forum but I thought I would try. I am trying to find a calibration pattern to run from a cable feed to calibrate my STB/component input combination and my STB/HDMI input combination. INHD ran "Bars and Tones" yesterday morning but I can't figure out how to use this pattern to calibrate brightness and contrast. Does the 6412 have a feature to send a calibration pattern to the TV? I have a feeling it does not but if any experts out there know of a way, please let me know. Failing that, do any stations included in Comcast's package broadcast calibration pattern (besides INHD's bars and tones). Please let me know. Thanks.

rosh400,

In your post, you didn't mention which 6412 box you have.

My experience using the 6412 box is that the 480i signal on the phase 1 version was too light. On the phase 3 version box, 480i was about right.

I have the phase III box. Question is their some sort of service menu code in the STB to send a calibration pattern to the TV?

If there is, it's well hidden. You would do better to get one of the calibration DVDs (Avia or Video Essentials) available and calibrate the input that your box is hooked up to.

How would that work? Considering that you probably want to calibrate each input, how would you calibrate an input that doesn't play DVDs?

How would that work? Considering that you probably want to calibrate each input, how would you calibrate an input that doesn't play DVDs?

The only input that doesn't play DVDs is the coax in. If you have a DVD player that has component outputs, and preferably an upconverting 1080I one, all you have to do is plug it into each input and calibrate it. I don't know of any DVD player that doesn't have a composite output as well, so, if you only have one component input and the rest are composite inputs on the TV you plug that one in.

It's not perfect, but then an ISF calibrator can get you there. The OP doesn't have the cash for that today so he can get closer this way.

I understand from posts above and others that putting the 6412 through a receiver is rarely going to work.

Anyone use a switcher, like the one from Monoprice (or Gefen)?

shane

The only input that doesn't play DVDs is the coax in. If you have a DVD player that has component outputs, and preferably an upconverting 1080I one, all you have to do is plug it into each input and calibrate it. I don't know of any DVD player that doesn't have a composite output as well, so, if you only have one component input and the rest are composite inputs on the TV you plug that one in.

It's not perfect, but then an ISF calibrator can get you there. The OP doesn't have the cash for that today so he can get closer this way.

I can do that but the DVD Component input combo will be different than the STB Component input combo. It would be best to calibrate off of an image generated by the STB.

The closest your going to get would be to record the HDNet test patterns that air on tuesday mornings. You can pause them and calibrate. They do not provide the most patterns, but the few they do are better than none at all.

[QUOTE=wstanko]Like most of you, I programmed the Comcast remote to do the 30 second skip. I also had programmed a 90 second skip macro. [/ QUOTE]I would also like to program a 30 second skip on my 6412, I got used to it on my replayTV and now I miss it but I can't find the post. Can some one help?

The Wiki pages have instructions on programming the skip, and just about anything else you might need. http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR

Look for "30 second skip" under the Programming the Remote section.

[QUOTE=wstanko]Like most of you, I programmed the Comcast remote to do the 30 second skip. I also had programmed a 90 second skip macro. [/ QUOTE]I would also like to program a 30 second skip on my 6412, I got used to it on my replayTV and now I miss it but I can't find the post. Can some one help?

Cut and paste from Keenan's post from page 4:

How to program the remote for 30, 60, 90, 120 (and
more) Second Skip

Create a 30 second skip using the following
directions:

1) Press the "Cable" button at the top of the remote
to put it into
Cable Box control mode.
2) Press and hold the "Setup" button until the
"Cable" button blinks twice.
3) Type in the code 994. The "Cable" button will
blink twice
4) Press (do not hold) the "Setup" button
5) Type in the code 00173 for 30 second Skip.
6) Press whatever button you want to map the skip
to.

The Wiki pages have instructions on programming the skip, and just about anything else you might need. http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/How_to_use_a_Motorola_DVR

Look for "30 second skip" under the Programming the Remote section.
Thank you for your prompt reply, I'll try it now.

Sunil, thank you.
This is a great forum and you guys are very helpful.

The only input that doesn't play DVDs is the coax in.Uh, well, okay, what you're saying, then, is that calibration is needed by input port, and won't vary based on what's connected to that input port. That seems unlikely to me: It seems to me that there should be a difference between a DVD player connected to component inputs and a cable box, especially given the output from the cable box might be more adversely impacted by variable input signal.

Uh, well, okay, what you're saying, then, is that calibration is needed by input port, and won't vary based on what's connected to that input port. That seems unlikely to me: It seems to me that there should be a difference between a DVD player connected to component inputs and a cable box, especially given the output from the cable box might be more adversely impacted by variable input signal.

My understanding is that you are correct. Calibration is unique to the input and the device connected through that input. Calibration for a DVD connected to your HDMI input will be different than calibration for your STB connected through the same input.

Okay, rosh400, then back to my original question: How do you use something like the AVIA DVD to calibrate the display for a STB that doesn't play DVDs? (confused)

bicker1

What may help is to copy the setting from a Avia(or DVE) calibrated input to the STB input. Not perfect as it assumes that the DVD player is accurate (many aren't), but it would be a good starting place. Then raise contrast till whites start to crush, then back it off. Adjust brightness till blacks crush, then back it off. Then recheck whites/contrast. Color and tint will be a bit trickier as it may vary with the degree of consistancy you have from your cable service. It would be better to aim for color saturation adjustment that doesn't overdo color on channels that you mostly watch. Then adjust tint (avoid green faces).

Bicker1,

JimP has it right about what you can do. The other thing is to pressure HDnet or INHD (via email through their websites) to broadcast a good set of calibration patterns and record them with your DVR. Another option is to find a thread for your set and see if other members have posted their settings. I have the Sony 32XBR1 and found about 18 sets of settings posted. I found a set that give me good black and white levels through my STB and the colors seem accurate. It may not be "calibrated" but I am happy with the picture. By the way, these settings are different from my DVD settings.

Rosh

Motorola currently doesn't support passing the HDCP protected signal through another deviceThat's not true, per se. It's completely dependent on the device!

I have my 6412 HDMI output connected to my projector's DVI input through a Zektor DVS5.1 active DVI switch (http://www.zektor.com/dvs51/index.html) which, in itself, is not certified for HDMI-HDMI HDCP. The DVS5.1 will not pass HDCP signals between two HDMI products, however it works fine when mixing HDMI and DVI devices, or between any two DVI devices.

Zektor's newer HDMI switch (http://www.zektor.com/hdvi5/index.html) is certified for HDMI-HDMI HDCP!

I am trying to find a calibration pattern to run from a cable feed to calibrate my STB/component input combination and my STB/HDMI input combination.The HDMI/DVI output of the Moto provides "studio" video levels (16-235) as opposed to "PC" video levels (0-255) so you can "calibrate" the HDMI/DVI input of your display by using a DVD player that does the same thing.

For example, the Bravo D1/D2, Momitsu and SnaZio players also output "studio" levels so you may use DVE, Avia or even THX Optimizer on one of those players to calibrate the BTB and WTW of the DVI/HDMI input on your display, then switch the input to the Moto and, voila, you will have it.

[QUOTE=Anselmo]

Cut and paste from Keenan's post from page 4:

How to program the remote for 30, 60, 90, 120 (and
more) Second Skip

Create a 30 second skip using the following
directions:

1) Press the "Cable" button at the top of the remote
to put it into
Cable Box control mode.
2) Press and hold the "Setup" button until the
"Cable" button blinks twice.
3) Type in the code 994. The "Cable" button will
blink twice
4) Press (do not hold) the "Setup" button
5) Type in the code 00173 for 30 second Skip.
6) Press whatever button you want to map the skip
to.
My motorola remote does not have a setup button so I could not program the skip. Is there another way?

It is the button in the topmost right side position -- next to the Power button.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d9/Comcast_Motorola_DCT6412_URC-1067ABG0_Silver_Remote.JPG

[QUOTE=Sunil]
My motorola remote does not have a setup button so I could not program the skip. Is there another way?

Who is your provider? I have Adelphia so I have a different style remote that also does not have a setup button.

My provider is Comcast in Utah. I didn't know the Moto DCT6412 came with any other remote. :confused:

Hmmm... very strange that you don't have a setup button or the equivalent. Is it not "programmable?" Do you have a user guide?

Unless another forum member can provide the answer you may be stuck with calling Adelphia tech support. :eek: If they are anything like the Comcast "numbnutz" tech support we have here it's something to be avoided except as a last resort.

My motorola remote does not have a setup button so I could not program the skip. Is there another way?No. Not other than buying the third party remote everyone else uses.

The Motorola DRC800 (http://broadband.motorola.com/consumers/products/drc800/) does not have a "Setup" button. See the instruction manual (http://broadband.motorola.com/consumers/products/drc800/downloads/DRC800_User_Guide.pdf) that comes with the remote.

http://broadband.motorola.com/consumers/images/drc800_bigview_1.jpg

Sheesh. Does no-one on this board know how to use Google!?@#$%^&*()

The Adelphia remote issue has come up before. Someone once posted a link where you could purchase a Comcast style remote for $12.... but the link doesn't work anymore. You might find one if you search though.

I was one of the original trouble-makers trying to find out how to program the 30-second skip into the remote suppled by Adelphia for their 6412 Phase III, which doesn't have the "Setup" button required to follow the published Comcast instructions.

I did actually purchase the recommended $12 remote from Walmart and it sat in the bag unopened for three months until I returned it -- I had purchased a new Harmony 720 off eBay for $100 which did a zillion times more things along with solving the lack of 30-second skip issue (the Harmony code database already had it).

Only downside is that I can't modify the skip code to jump multiple minutes at a jump, because I still don't have a "setup" button. :)

Now if someone has a Comcast remote that has been programmed to do a multi-minute skip AND they also have a Harmony remote, they could upload that IR code to the Harmony database and then we could all use it! :)

It is the button in the topmost right side position -- next to the Power button.

http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/d/d9/Comcast_Motorola_DCT6412_URC-1067ABG0_Silver_Remote.JPG The Motorola DRC800 does not have a "Setup" button. See the instruction manual that comes with the remote.

CAVU,
No. Not other than buying the third party remote everyone else uses.
No wonder I could not get it to work, I don't have the proper remote, I got the DRC800(shown two posts above). My cable provider is Liberty which might be just a local company, the service is OK though.

Call their tech support to see how you do this without the setup button.

Call their tech support to see how you do this without the setup button.

The DRC800 is not programmable.

http://www.tvsnob.com/archives/003479.php

That said, do not call tech support to see how it is done. They don't even know how to program the silver remote.

Anselmo should follow the advice and buy a silver remote for himself and use it. One thing to think about is that the firmware that his company is using might not allow for the skip. The Microsoft folks in WA and Cox subs do not have 30 second skip. that's how it is.....

The DRC800 is not programmable.

http://www.tvsnob.com/archives/003479.php

1) That said, do not call tech support to see how it is done. They don't even know how to program the silver remote.

2)Anselmo should follow the advice and buy a silver remote for himself and use it. One thing to think about is that the firmware that his company is using might not allow for the skip. The Microsoft folks in WA and Cox subs do not have 30 second skip. that's how it is.....
1) I agree, my cable co. won't know much. I never had a silver remote because Liberty went strait to HD dual tuner, so I had no choice on remote types.

2) I hope that I'm lucky and have access to the 30 second skip, I'll be getting a new remote.

Thank you all for your help.

My Moto 6412 makes noises all the time, is this normal? It's always clicking and clacking even when it is turned off. How about yours?

My Moto 6412 makes noises all the time, is this normal?Yes.

My Moto 6412 makes noises all the time, is this normal? It's always clicking and clacking even when it is turned off. How about yours?
Yes.
Yours must have noisy hard drives or something. Mine doesn't make any noise at all (other than a slight fan noise that isn't really noticeable).

My Moto 6412 makes noises all the time, is this normal? It's always clicking and clacking even when it is turned off. How about yours?
Normal? I don't know, but mind does... and it certainly seems 'common'. Mine's not loud enough to be a bother. The fan is louder and a bit annoying at times.

shane

My Phase III and the previous DVI version have hard drive spinning noise but nothing offensive. I keep mine on all the time per recommendations of other posts.

My Moto 6412 makes noises all the time, is this normal? It's always clicking and clacking even when it is turned off. How about yours?

The only way to turn off the STB, is to unplug the power cord. The off is a standby mode that shuts down the display (minus the clock) and the video card.

The STB is always on unless you unplug it. :)

The HDD / Fan noise is normaly caused by a bad mounting job, or the HDD is about to fail. The Fan is a quiet type and should not make any noise other then that caused by the push of air flow. Some types of surfaces can make these normal sounds, sound louder then normal.

Normal? I don't know, but mind does... and it certainly seems 'common'. Mine's not loud enough to be a bother. The fan is louder and a bit annoying at times.
shaneI don't think that mine has a fan, I'll have to check but the noise is from the drive. I was concerned because my replayTV is usually quiet except when downloading program data.

I've never heard a peep (or whirr or buzz or anything else) from my 3412.

I've never heard a peep (or whirr or buzz or anything else) from my 3412.As scanpa says, the noises the OP hears may be failing hardware OR he's just not as deaf as the rest of us. ;)

Great News:

My Adelphia Ohio Motorola 6412 v.3 box received firmware v. 12.35 last night and HDMI through my receiver to the LCD worked perfectly. No green screen, no error message. I powered everything down and tried again to verify. Still working fine.

Great News:

My Adelphia Ohio Motorola 6412 v.3 box received firmware v. 12.35 last night and HDMI through my receiver to the LCD worked perfectly. No green screen, no error message. I powered everything down and tried again to verify. Still working fine.

WOW!! That is fabulous news. :D :D :D

I'll have to call Comcast right away and see when we will be getting 12.35 in Utah.

Thanks for the update.

As scanpa says, the noises the OP hears may be failing hardware OR he's just not as deaf as the rest of us. ;)Well, I guess that the machine is always on even when it is off :confused: I was just concered that it might not be working properly. Wht is OP any way?

OP="Original Poster"

I just got "updated" to firmware 12.35 today and it successfully wiped out my 30 second skip function. I tried rebooting, unplugging and even redoing the code on the original remote to no avail. Has anyone else experienced this with the update? Does anyone know of a fix yet?? By the way I am on Bresnan cable in Wyoming.

Michael

I just got "updated" to firmware 12.35 today and it successfully wiped out my 30 second skip function. I tried rebooting, unplugging and even redoing the code on the original remote to no avail. Has anyone else experienced this with the update? Does anyone know of a fix yet?? By the way I am on Bresnan cable in Wyoming.
30-second skip is an option that can be enabled/disabled when your local cable company makes adjustments to the master firmware for their area (there are all sorts of options they can turn on and off.) Since 30-second skip is not officially supported, it tends to be get turned off. You can try complaining, but odds are it will be permanently disabled everywhere soon. As it is, ABC is trying to convince cable/satellite companies to disable FF!!

Great News:

My Adelphia Ohio Motorola 6412 v.3 box received firmware v. 12.35 last night and HDMI through my receiver to the LCD worked perfectly. No green screen, no error message. I powered everything down and tried again to verify. Still working fine.


Anyone know if 12.35 enables external hard drive support?

Comcast has vowed to never enable any external drive. From a Customer Service prespective it would be a total loser. Plans are to increase internal drives over the next generation of STB's.

It looks like I might have to resurrect the mythtv box (updated for HD though).

Michael

I just got "updated" to firmware 12.35 today and it successfully wiped out my 30 second skip function. I tried rebooting, unplugging and even redoing the code on the original remote to no avail. Has anyone else experienced this with the update? Does anyone know of a fix yet?? By the way I am on Bresnan cable in Wyoming.MichaelThat's why I could not program the 30 sec skip on my remote. Well, it programed but it was not recognized by the Moto. BTW, is there a way to check what version of software my 6412 has?

Yes do this:

MENU>SETUP>CABLE BOX SETUP>CONFIGURATION and it should show the info there.

BTW, is there a way to check what version of software my 6412 has?
Press Menu twice to go to the Main Menu
Scroll down to "Setup" and select it (it's at the bottom of the 2nd page)
Then choose "Cable Box Setup"
The choose "Configuration"
The firmware version is in the second column near the bottom.

Please forgive my laziness in reading over the last 46 pages of thread, I've tried searching inside the thread for my answer and haven't found it. So I ask you now!

Does this new box support HDMI switching? specifically through an A/V receiver?

Whatever version of the box I've got now does not, and it's very annoying not to be able to use the feature on my receiver. Hopefully there will be good news for me! Thanks in advance.

Press Menu twice to go to the Main Menu
Scroll down to "Setup" and select it (it's at the bottom of the 2nd page)
Then choose "Cable Box Setup"
Then choose "Configuration"
The firmware version is in the second column near the bottom. By D. Harper Yes do this:
MENU>SETUP>CABLE BOX SETUP>CONFIGURATION and it should show the info there.Thank you both,
I guess that for most of us, the 30 sec skip will be history unless some one comes up with a fix.

No problem Anselmo, glad I could help:)

My Moto 6412 makes noises all the time, is this normal? It's always clicking and clacking even when it is turned off. How about yours?

My first one also had a very noisy hard disk - all the time. I exchanged it and got a 3412, much more quiter and SD looks better.

My first one also had a very noisy hard disk - all the time. I exchanged it and got a 3412, much more quiter and SD looks better.
Does your 3412 have HDMI enabled?

shane

My first one also had a very noisy hard disk - all the time. I exchanged it and got a 3412, much more quiter and SD looks better.
Actually, the noise does not bother me, it is just that my replayTV was really off when it was off. It was only on when it connected to down load program data. BTW, is the 3412 a newer model?

Yes, the 3412 is the newer model. It is basically a 6412 without the analog tuners. It is used in areas that have digital simulcast.

My first one also had a very noisy hard disk - all the time. I exchanged it and got a 3412, much more quiter and SD looks better.

Does your 3412 have HDMI enabled?

shane

What does HDMI have to do with the Hard Drive noise? I'm confused:confused:

Please forgive my laziness in reading over the last 46 pages of thread, I've tried searching inside the thread for my answer and haven't found it. So I ask you now!

Does this new box support HDMI switching? specifically through an A/V receiver?

Whatever version of the box I've got now does not, and it's very annoying not to be able to use the feature on my receiver. Hopefully there will be good news for me! Thanks in advance.

Sorry, but the one word answer is NO :mad: .

Someone I know who works for Motorola on these boxes said that Comcast doesn't buy firmware upgrades to the boxes hardly ever because they don't want to spend the money on it. He tells me Motorola comes out with fixes and updates, but Comcast won't buy or apply them to their systems.

Someone I know who works for Motorola on these boxes said that Comcast doesn't buy firmware upgrades to the boxes hardly ever because they don't want to spend the money on it. He tells me Motorola comes out with fixes and updates, but Comcast won't buy or apply them to their systems.When I first got a 6412 maybe 6 months ago, it was at firmware version 12.18. It's now 12.31, and it still has plenty of bugs. Why should Comcast keep paying for updates when Motorola can't get it right? I wish they'd just drop the Motorola POS altogether and go with some other supplier.

When I first got a 6412 maybe 6 months ago, it was at firmware version 12.18. It's now 12.31, and it still has plenty of bugs. Why should Comcast keep paying for updates when Motorola can't get it right? I wish they'd just drop the Motorola POS altogether and go with some other supplier.

They have dropped /\/\otorola. The DCT-700, and the DCT-3412p1 & p2 are the last purchase that will hapen between Comcast & /\/\otorola.

Panasonic is now the maker of all HD & HD DVR STB.

another company will be building the NON HD STB...


Comcast still has 2 years left in the deal with SA for there non HD and HD & HD DVR STB.

They have dropped /\/\otorola. The DCT-700, and the DCT-3412p1 & p2 are the last purchase that will hapen between Comcast & /\/\otorola.

Panasonic is now the maker of all HD & HD DVR STB.

another company will be building the NON HD STB...


Comcast still has 2 years left in the deal with SA for there non HD and HD & HD DVR STB.
Wow, that's interesting, Comcast drops Motorola. I guess that means head-end equipment will need to be changed out? Great, just something else to delay my local system from moving into the 21st century.

Wow, that's interesting, Comcast drops Motorola. I guess that means head-end equipment will need to be changed out? Great, just something else to delay my local system from moving into the 21st century.

Let me refrase that.

Comcast will not be renewing there contract for more /\/\otorola made STB from there DCT series.

Since both /\/\ & SA based cable plants are to be upgraded to OCAP standard. the head end equipment will remain. it's mostly software driven now anyway. just like the STB....

:D

Let me refrase that.

Comcast will not be renewing there contract for more /\/\otorola made STB from there DCT series.

Since both /\/\ & SA based cable plants are to be upgraded to OCAP standard. the head end equipment will remain. it's mostly software driven now anyway. just like the STB....

:D
Okay, that sounds a bit more reasonable, of course my local system still has more analog channels than digital so I expect I'll be a very old man before much changes around here. :p

Does your 3412 have HDMI enabled?

shane

Yes, I use a HDMI->DVI cable to the LCD.

I also have teh component hooked up and compared the 2, HDMI looks way better.

Wow, that's interesting, Comcast drops Motorola. I guess that means head-end equipment will need to be changed out?Not necessarily. As part of their billion-dollar deal with Motorola, Comcast gained the ability to provide Digicipher conditional access technologies to several other STB vendors. I believe Panasonic is one of these.


- Talk

1) My cable company (Buckeye) uses Motorola DVRs. Therefore, if I purchase a Motorola DCT6412 on eBay, can I simply hook it up and use it instead of having to pay to rent a DVR from them?
2) Do you usually need to get a cable companies permission to use your own DVR instead of theirs?
3) Can I connect an external hard drive to it in order to increase its recording capacity?
THANKS.

It's my impression (American) cable companies won't activate a DVR they didn't issue. In Canada, eh? I know people on this site have bought their own box outright and had it activated.

jrw1,

I've been through three 6412s at the cable companies expense in about a year and a half. I don't think that you can rely on them to work indifinately.

You might also ask yourself where did the seller get it. Its not like the cable companies sell them.

Cavu, any progress on the 500gb drive yet?

Have you been unsuccessful or still not found the time?

Cavu, any progress on the 500gb drive yet?

Have you been unsuccessful or still not found the time?

I would like to know too as I just passed up a heckuva deal on a 500gb SATA drive because I didn't know if it could be made to work on the 6412 to full capacity or not.

Press Menu twice to go to the Main Menu
Scroll down to "Setup" and select it (it's at the bottom of the 2nd page)
Then choose "Cable Box Setup"
The choose "Configuration"
The firmware version is in the second column near the bottom.I must have some rare bird, menu + menu won't work. When I press menu twice, I get the usual sub menus. Problem is, I won't be able to see what software version I have if I don't get to access the service menu. TAW.

I must have some rare bird, menu + menu won't work. When I press menu twice, I get the usual sub menus. Problem is, I won't be able to see what software version I have if I don't get to access the service menu. TAW.

You don't need the service menu. The usual sub menus is exactly what you're looking for. Page down to the second page and find "setup" then follow the instructions already given.

Yahoo!
I saw the messages about 12.35, so I checked my 6412 (Adelphia, Loudoun County, VA) and it has 12.35 installed. I tested the HDMI repeating and it now works! I can now remove all those component and other cables and just use HDMI.

Time to re-program my Harmony remote.

--- John B.

Yahoo!
I saw the messages about 12.35, so I checked my 6412 (Adelphia, Loudoun County, VA) and it has 12.35 installed. I tested the HDMI repeating and it now works! I can now remove all those component and other cables and just use HDMI.

Time to re-program my Harmony remote.

--- John B.
Some people have all the luck!!! Congrats and enjoy!! :D

Wow. I sure got ripped off by buying my HDMI cable at Best Buy :)

You should look at some of the cables I sell! I have a Transparent (brand) HDMI cable for just under $300 MSRP! :)

Seriously, the quality of cables is often argued over quite a bit here, but anyone who has a brain and two eyeballs can see the difference. Find a local dealer who will loan you a good cable, then compare at home with your own equipment. Find the best performance you are willing to pay for and have fun!

(P.S. at least here in Seattle, the Moto boxes provided by Comcast look BETTER with component, NOT HDMI!)

You should look at some of the cables I sell! I have a Transparent (brand) HDMI cable for just under $300 MSRP! :)

Seriously, the quality of cables is often argued over quite a bit here, but anyone who has a brain and two eyeballs can see the difference. Find a local dealer who will loan you a good cable, then compare at home with your own equipment. Find the best performance you are willing to pay for and have fun!

(P.S. at least here in Seattle, the Moto boxes provided by Comcast look BETTER with component, NOT HDMI!)

I tried a $100+ Monster Component cable as well as a $100+ Monster HDMI cable on a 50" plasma as well as a 65" HDTV CRT and couldn't tell a difference between those and the same length MonoPrice $10 (or less) cables on many different sources.

You don't need the service menu. The usual sub menus is exactly what you're looking for. Page down to the second page and find "setup" then follow the instructions already given.Thanks,
So, do I use the "page" button" after the menu button?

Thanks,
So, do I use the "page" button" after the menu button?

That works.......

I tried a $100+ Monster Component cable as well as a $100+ Monster HDMI cable on a 50" plasma as well as a 65" HDTV CRT and couldn't tell a difference between those and the same length MonoPrice $10 (or less) cables on many different sources.

Try something OTHER than Monster! :) The only Monster HDMI I recommend to customers is the M1000 running $200 retail for 2m length. The lower grade Monster cables (IMHO) are nothing special, and somewhat overpriced for their performance. I have seen an INCREDIBLE difference with a good HP Transparent HDMI ($340 for 2m length)!

I am not saying you have to spend that for a good picture, but you should definitely try other brands.

Bottom line, some cables are worth what you pay, some arent. Dont make the mistake of thinking all premium cables are crap based on one experience with one cable. Try different brands and compare, the end result will be worth the trouble.

A digital signal is a digital signal; that's the whole advantage over analog. If the signal isn't so degraded it can't be read on the receiving end, it's good, and there is no difference in the 1's and 0's from any two different cables. The signal is either on, or it's off. There is no in between.

I'll buy that a premium component cable may give you a better picture than a cheap one, but HDMI just doesn't work that way.

A digital signal is a digital signal; that's the whole advantage over analog. If the signal isn't so degraded it can't be read on the receiving end, it's good, and there is no difference in the 1's and 0's from any two different cables. The signal is either on, or it's off. There is no in between.

I'll buy that a premium component cable may give you a better picture than a cheap one, but HDMI just doesn't work that way.

And what happens when a digital signal suffers drop-out? The missing information is interpolated (the display device "guesses" what the missing info is)! Just because the signal is digital does NOT mean that you can get by with a sub-standard cable! When you look at the bandwidth involved with HDMI or DVI, you can quickly appreciate the ENOURMOUS amounts of data being transferred.

As an example, play a moderately scratched CD. Most of the time the CD will still play, without any drastic pops or clicks. However, if you listen to a perfect, scratchless CD, you should notice a significant increase in sound quality.

Just because there is still some sound or picture being played does NOT mean you are seeing all of the information that is available!

Look, we could (and others have) argue about this until the cows come home. If you are skeptical, instead of reading and researching until your eyeballs fall out (leaving you blind and unable to appreciate HDMI or HDTV!), try it for yourself! Find a dealer who will LOAN you a good HDMI cable, and compare it to the $50 crap sold at most major electronics stores. If you dont see a difference, great! You save yourself tons of money! But I will bet you anything that if you hook up a high definition source with a QUALITY (read over $200) HDMI cable, you will IMMEDIATELY notice better color, more detail, more depth, deeper blacks, less "block noise" and an overall better picture.

Try it, and let me know what you think.

I would LOVE to see some of the people like you trying to sell overpriced cables (what's your markup on that $340 cable, btw?) demonstrate the superiority in a blind test. You let me switch cables without you knowing which is which, and then tell me you can tell the difference.

I'm a systems engineer who's worked with electronics, computers, and data transmission for over 15 years, and I know how digital signals work. I also know what digital errors look like on a video screen, and they're pretty damn obvious. There is no subtle difference between cables, if you get one so bad you're getting dropouts, you know. And that's pretty rare, because a 1 or 2 meter cable has to be pretty bad for that to happen.

I would LOVE to see some of the people like you trying to sell overpriced cables (what's your markup on that $340 cable, btw?) demonstrate the superiority in a blind test. You let me switch cables without you knowing which is which, and then tell me you can tell the difference.

I'm a systems engineer who's worked with electronics, computers, and data transmission for over 15 years, and I know how digital signals work. I also know what digital errors look like on a video screen, and they're pretty damn obvious. There is no subtle difference between cables, if you get one so bad you're getting dropouts, you know. And that's pretty rare, because a 1 or 2 meter cable has to be pretty bad for that to happen.


Engineers are always the hardest to convince. They think they know better. Well, sorry, I am not arguing the point any further. If you go in with an OPEN MIND and honestly compare the subjective picture quality with YOUR OWN EYES, you will see a difference! Try it, then talk!

P.S. All A/V products carry a markup, we do this so we can stay in business and support you after the sale! Don't begrudge us a living, as we certainly dont begrudge engineers for the fees that they charge! Also, keep in mind that for some, price is secondary to performance.

Boy, I've learned quite a bit about my new DVR from this thread, so first off thanks to everyone. :)

I just brought home a DCT6416 III from Cox Cable in Omaha and wanted to program in the 30 second skip.

Apparently I'm not doing something right because it's not working. :confused:

I followed the step by step directions on post #101 in this thread and the codes seem to take and I get all the proper blinky lights when I'm entering them, but when I'm done nothing works.

I tried assigning the 30 second skip to the "rew" button and also to the "F3" button, but it still rewinds every time i hit the rew & it completely ignores the "F3" button.

Am, I missing something?

Thanks

Tony

Try something OTHER than Monster! :) The only Monster HDMI I recommend to customers is the M1000 running $200 retail for 2m length. The lower grade Monster cables (IMHO) are nothing special, and somewhat overpriced for their performance. I have seen an INCREDIBLE difference with a good HP Transparent HDMI ($340 for 2m length)!

I am not saying you have to spend that for a good picture, but you should definitely try other brands.

Bottom line, some cables are worth what you pay, some arent. Dont make the mistake of thinking all premium cables are crap based on one experience with one cable. Try different brands and compare, the end result will be worth the trouble.

I tried the most expensive Monster cables that Best Buy had and they were each well above $100 so it may have been the ones you speak of... dunno. I think they were in purple packaging if that helps.

I would LOVE to see some of the people like you trying to sell overpriced cables (what's your markup on that $340 cable, btw?) demonstrate the superiority in a blind test. You let me switch cables without you knowing which is which, and then tell me you can tell the difference.

I'm a systems engineer who's worked with electronics, computers, and data transmission for over 15 years, and I know how digital signals work. I also know what digital errors look like on a video screen, and they're pretty damn obvious. There is no subtle difference between cables, if you get one so bad you're getting dropouts, you know. And that's pretty rare, because a 1 or 2 meter cable has to be pretty bad for that to happen.

I'm with John Nemesh on this one. Cables make a huge difference, be they analog or digital. Congrats on being an engineer for 15 years. I don't see how that makes you an expert on the audible/visual difference between a premium grade cable and a entry level cable anymore than anyone else in these forums. In fact, I'd guess you'd be presupposed to let your engineering knowledge bias your evaluation (i.e.-I shouldn't be seeing or hearing a difference) if you were to be open to such a demonstration. If you were to truly look for/listen for differences, they are there to be heard and seen. As for the hostility directed at the retail industry, I'm sorry if you've had bad experiences where you live. And I don't know where you're shopping where you expect they'll just give you things without any kind of mark-up. Mark-up that pays for the employees, those employees health benefits, the upkeep of the facility, the products on display at that facility. A facility that many have no issue visiting and enjoying while occupying a salesperson's time with little intention to buy at those "marked up" retail prices. A salesperson with a family and responsibilities just like everyone else in the world. Please try and recognize that we live in a society and that life isn't designed simply to get you stuff as cheaply as possible, and that for a fair price you can get the support and backing of your local dealer in a way not possible from internet retailers who have little of the responsibilities described above.

Cheers............Scott W.

I tried the most expensive Monster cables that Best Buy had and they were each well above $100 so it may have been the ones you speak of... dunno. I think they were in purple packaging if that helps.


Monster does not sell their best cables through Best Buy. The THX certified one (purple packaging) is OK, but not exceptional. Also, athough Monster is the most prolific cable out there, they are far from the best, they are simply the best marketed!

You should look for an A/V specialty store in your area that has a loaner program (most GOOD dealers will loan cables)...find a dealer, take home a few cables and compare. Listen Up! in Denver should be able to help you out. Call em up, see what they have to offer, get opinions, then get the loaners and see for yourself!

Engineers are always the hardest to convince. They think they know better. Well, sorry, I am not arguing the point any further. If you go in with an OPEN MIND and honestly compare the subjective picture quality with YOUR OWN EYES, you will see a difference! Try it, then talk!

P.S. All A/V products carry a markup, we do this so we can stay in business and support you after the sale! Don't begrudge us a living, as we certainly dont begrudge engineers for the fees that they charge! Also, keep in mind that for some, price is secondary to performance.Engineers think they know better about the fields they spent years studying and working in, yeah, I guess we do have that fault. But it's also engineers who designed that equipment in the first place.

And I have to disagree with you: engineers are actually pretty damn easy to convince, if you show them real proof. Like, as I said, a blind test. Anything less is too subjective to be valid.

As for the markup, I don't mean to sound as if I begrudge you a living; that's how retail works after all. And I'd rather buy from a local retailer rather than some Internet discount house, or heaven forbid Wallyworld, somewhere where I can get decent service and support. But I do know that cables have a much higher markup than components, and if cheap cables work as well as expensive ones, then that cuts significantly into your profits. Point being you aren't exactly an unbiased observer.

Engineers think they know better about the fields they spent years studying and working in, yeah, I guess we do have that fault. But it's also engineers who designed that equipment in the first place.

And I have to disagree with you: engineers are actually pretty damn easy to convince, if you show them real proof. Like, as I said, a blind test. Anything less is too subjective to be valid.

As for the markup, I don't mean to sound as if I begrudge you a living; that's how retail works after all. And I'd rather buy from a local retailer rather than some Internet discount house, or heaven forbid Wallyworld, somewhere where I can get decent service and support. But I do know that cables have a much higher markup than components, and if cheap cables work as well as expensive ones, then that cuts significantly into your profits. Point being you aren't exactly an unbiased observer.

Well, I always respect the opinion of an INDUSTRY engineer who is knowledgable on the products he designs. Tell me, how many HDMI projects have you worked on? How many Gb/sec is involved with transmission of an HDMI signal? How come computer networks are slower than HDMI? Answer these questions and I might give your claims of expertise some credence.

Engineers think they know better about the fields they spent years studying and working in, yeah, I guess we do have that fault. But it's also engineers who designed that equipment in the first place.

And I have to disagree with you: engineers are actually pretty damn easy to convince, if you show them real proof. Like, as I said, a blind test. Anything less is too subjective to be valid.

As for the markup, I don't mean to sound as if I begrudge you a living; that's how retail works after all. And I'd rather buy from a local retailer rather than some Internet discount house, or heaven forbid Wallyworld, somewhere where I can get decent service and support. But I do know that cables have a much higher markup than components, and if cheap cables work as well as expensive ones, then that cuts significantly into your profits. Point being you aren't exactly an unbiased observer.

You no doubt have great experience in the objective evaluation of data as per your training. Again, this does not equate to skill in listening for/watching for the differences, however subtle you may feel they are, between grades of cable. That has nothing to do with engineering prowess or knowledge. Have you actually taken home different grades of cable to test? If you feel a blind test is the only valid test methodology (a notion I strongly disagree with by the way), then ask a friend to swap cables for you, leaving all other system parameters the same.

As for testing, consider this. I have NO experience driving very expensive sports cars. If a high-end car salesperson points out what I should be noticing as we're driving, they are not trying to foolishly convince me that an Enzo is better than a Civic to deceive me, they are educating me on differences I don't even know to be on the lookout for. This is helpful, and not simply designed to get you to buy an expensive item (heaven forbid) :)

And my proudest sale (yes, I'm a....shudder.....salesperson!) was a rather spendy amount of high-end cable to an engineer who came into my place of business predisposed to believe as you do. After being open to a demonstrated difference, it was as plain as the nose on his face, and he was sold on the merits that better cabling can make. After all, why should tight manufacturing tolerances and superior parts selection NOT make a difference in better cable? It does, and I invite you to visit your nearest high-end dealer who is willing to loan you a cheaper cable and a better cable for you to expereince for yourself.

Cheers...............Scott W.

As for the markup, I don't mean to sound as if I begrudge you a living; that's how retail works after all. And I'd rather buy from a local retailer rather than some Internet discount house, or heaven forbid Wallyworld, somewhere where I can get decent service and support. But I do know that cables have a much higher markup than components, and if cheap cables work as well as expensive ones, then that cuts significantly into your profits. Point being you aren't exactly an unbiased observer.

It's no industry secret there's poor margin in mass market video products (which is why they're discounted at the big box stores who rely on volume, volume volume). Don't know where you're getting your information as it relates to margin on cables versus conventional stereo components. It's incorrect, as is your supposition that "cheap cables work as well as expensive ones". 99% of the time, you get what you pay for. If you cannot see or hear a difference between the Transparent Audio's of the world versus the Crazy Eddie's super-duper cheap cable of the world, perhaps you are not as well trained at appreciating that "slight" reduction in video noise or grain or the increased saturation in color or in hearing a bit (no pun intended) of glare removed from the presentation as you are in the more rigid scientific aspects of your engineering work. As for unbiased observer, my job is to sell the best solutions my workplace has to offer. There are occassions where I refer a client to get a particular thing elsewhere in order to serve their best interests (I do not need to do this often however). My experience has been that this is usually appreciated and ensures their coming back to me if at all possible. It's taking the long view of a relationship with a customer that many salespeople are eager to engage in. Sadly, the public is so predisposed to thinking sales=bias that they do not allow themselves to be open enough to this outreach on the part of the many highly ethical salespeople in this business (and many others I'm sure), and the resulting fantastic, well-balanced, synergy-driven systems that can be created with mutual trust.

I've read through the last 10 pages and didn't see my question covered, so forigve me if this is a repost...

I have a 6416 III. Service Electric (Lehigh Valley) advertises 80 hours and 8 hours hdtv. When I check the menu to see available hours, it says 35. I called the cable company, did a reset and still the same.

The guy told me 35 made sense because it's 35 per tuner so I really have 70 hours. I don't understand why it wouldn't say 70 then.

Am I missing something or was he right? I also find it really annoying that I have to constantly reboot the box to get the hours to reset.

With all the expensive-cable mudslinging, I'll add another point:

Remember that, unlike CD audio, digital video, and most non-CD audio, uses LOSSY COMPRESSION. Anything lost from a few missing bits on a 'cheap' cable will be more than overwhelmed by the loss from the compression.

With all the expensive-cable mudslinging, I'll add another point:

Remember that, unlike CD audio, digital video, and most non-CD audio, uses LOSSY COMPRESSION. Anything lost from a few missing bits on a 'cheap' cable will be more than overwhelmed by the loss from the compression.

The only "mudslinging" being done is by those who want to believe they can buy cheap cables and it won't affect their sound or picture quality. I don't hear any of these same people actually claiming to have taken different grades of cable home to do an honest, open-minded comparison. Because if you did that, you might, shudder, come to understand that you can't shortchange the signal path without doing damage to it. Seems like to an engineer, that should make sense.

The only "mudslinging" being done is by those who want to believe they can buy cheap cables and it won't affect their sound or picture quality. I don't hear any of these same people actually claiming to have taken different grades of cable home to do an honest, open-minded comparison. Because if you did that, you might, shudder, come to understand that you can't shortchange the signal path without doing damage to it. Seems like to an engineer, that should make sense.

Another point: If you all went by specs alone as the final arbiter of sound or picture quality, we should all be getting our stereos and cables at Radio Shack. You can get a cheap piece of electronics to spec reasonably close to a premium piece of gear. If you feel you can go into Radio Shack (no offense, Radio Shack) and achieve the same level of quality as you could from a say, Mark Levinson or Classe Audio component, then you are likely just being difficult because you are unable to concede you may be wrong, or you ears are really, really poor. Why is there so much resistance to the simple notion that shortchanging anything has an impact?

Thanks,
So, do I use the "page" button" after the menu button?
Yes -- you can either use the Page button OR simply use the down arrow which will automatically move to the next page when you try to go past the last item on the visible page.

Boy, I've learned quite a bit about my new DVR from this thread, so first off thanks to everyone. :)

I just brought home a DCT6416 III from Cox Cable in Omaha and wanted to program in the 30 second skip.

Apparently I'm not doing something right because it's not working. :confused:

I followed the step by step directions on post #101 in this thread and the codes seem to take and I get all the proper blinky lights when I'm entering them, but when I'm done nothing works.

I tried assigning the 30 second skip to the "rew" button and also to the "F3" button, but it still rewinds every time i hit the rew & it completely ignores the "F3" button.

Am, I missing something?

Thanks

Tony


Cox disables 30 sec skip.

Yes -- you can either use the Page button OR simply use the down arrow which will automatically move to the next page when you try to go past the last item on the visible page.Thanks,
This cable Co. is pretty bad, not only the 30 sec. skip but I can't even see setup on the user menu. I will be calling them but I don't think that they(customer service) know much about this DVR, oh well. If we could program it, it would be nice.

The only "mudslinging" being done is by those who want to believe they can buy cheap cables and it won't affect their sound or picture quality. I don't hear any of these same people actually claiming to have taken different grades of cable home to do an honest, open-minded comparison. Because if you did that, you might, shudder, come to understand that you can't shortchange the signal path without doing damage to it. Seems like to an engineer, that should make sense.I'm not going to keep arguing with used car salesmen who like using invalid analogies. I'll just point out it's only the people trying to sell the cables who are so convinced they are superior for their intended function.

You are both right to a point, so we need to drop this off topic conversation here and take it elsewhere like the Cables Forum or something, and get back to the topic at hand as some people have tried to do already.

Thanks for your cooperation.:)

BTW, I am in Sales here at AVS and I also come from an ISF calibration, Military (read: Military specs) and TV & Radio Broadcast background, so I see all your points. Being 100% right isn't always the best solution to a problem:rolleyes:

I'm not going to keep arguing with used car salesmen who like using invalid analogies. I'll just point out it's only the people trying to sell the cables who are so convinced they are superior for their intended function.

Last words:

I was just about to let this one go, but I can not ignore so vile a statement! I take offense to your analogy of used car salesmen in the highest possible manner.

It is my job to consult with my clients, to earn their trust, and to provide world class service to them, hopefully, for life.

We professionals in this industry can not acheive this if we sell our customers expensive junk with questionable benefits!

I approach all of my sales with HONESTY and INTEGRETY. I propose components that will give the best performance within the clients budget.

Cables and interconnects, power conditioners and UPS devices all have their place in a modern A/V system. They are as much a component in the system as the DVD player or amp!

I suggest the electronics, draw the neccessary connections, and let the client decide on how much they want to spend (if any) on the cables they will need.

If the customer is doubtful, I will LOAN the cables to them so they can see the difference for themselves. I RARELY have a cable returned due to performance!

Bottom line, we are NOT used car salesmen, we are sales professionals! If you have a problem with a local salesman, find another dealer, but DONT make a blanket statement and expect us to let it slide.

I would invite you to visit Definitive Audio here in Seattle. Come by my shop someday and SEE how we do business. Until you do, I expect that you will keep your tongue in check and your opinions to yourself. Thank you.

And used car salesmen are not professionals? They are all shady rip-off artists?

I love how he so valiantly defends his honor by bagging on another profession that he's never done. Way to perpetuate a stereotype and make yourself look top notch by making blanket statements towards another profession to defend the blanket statement made about your profession.

Now, let the little piss match go or take it to PM or the correct area and let this thread get back on topic.

I'm not going to keep arguing with used car salesmen who like using invalid analogies. I'll just point out it's only the people trying to sell the cables who are so convinced they are superior for their intended function.

There is a reason why someone resorts to ugly hurtful statements when all that is being asked of them is to have an open mind. The specific reason only you can determine, but you come off like a very angry man making needlessly hostile statements to another forum member trying to make an honest point. I have yet to here whether or not you have done a valid A/B of different grades of cable with all other variables the same. If not, you are just another guy, angry at the world and sure that everyone is out to get him. Here's a radical idea---quit accusing proponents of cable as "used car salesmen" and do the dang comparison. The worst that can happen is you won't hear or see a difference and you can feel truly vindicated OR you will see and/or hear a difference and find a marvelous new way of improving your system that you have closed off to yourself before now.

Please do not respond with anymore of your needless venom until you have something real to contribute. Being an engineer and telling everyone here there's no conceivable way there's a difference is the height of arrogance. If you'd like to speak to an engineer about these matters, I'd suggest you call Josh Clark of Transparent Audio, based in Saco, Maine for a marvelous engineer who can explain in your language why digital cables can vary radically in quality.

You are both right to a point, so we need to drop this off topic conversation here and take it elsewhere like the Cables Forum or something, and get back to the topic at hand as some people have tried to do already.

Thanks for your cooperation.:)

BTW, I am in Sales here at AVS and I also come from an ISF calibration, Military (read: Military specs) and TV & Radio Broadcast background, so I see all your points. Being 100% right isn't always the best solution to a problem:rolleyes:

I reiterate, before I have to report this post and have it shut down:mad:

Thank you all for your cooperation:)

I reiterate, before I have to report this post and have it shut down:mad:

Thank you all for your cooperation:)

Rightfully so. I figured I was done with the issue, but wasn't going to be attacked without comment. Perhaps there are some open minds in the appropriate forum.

Cheers.............Scott W.

And used car salesmen are not professionals? They are all shady rip-off artists?

I love how he so valiantly defends his honor by bagging on another profession that he's never done. Way to perpetuate a stereotype and make yourself look top notch by making blanket statements towards another profession to defend the blanket statement made about your profession.

Now, let the little piss match go or take it to PM or the correct area and let this thread get back on topic.


I objected to the inferrence of the term. I apologize if I ticked off any used car salesmen with my response.

I went back 10-15 pages searching for this and did not see it mentioned. I have a 6412 phase 2 box. I am trying to get to the Diagnostics Menu by shutting off box at the set top and pressing select before 2 seconds. This use to work 9 months ago, when I got my first box. Now i get nothing black screen.

I received a replacement box when the display died and went all "8888" on me a few weeks ago. The same thing happens on the (not so) new box. Diagnostic screen does not show.

I have Suscom in NY. Comcast is slowly taking over the system. They have switched over on high speed internet already, but not sure if the switch has been made to cable TV.

I went back 10-15 pages searching for this and did not see it mentioned. I have a 6412 phase 2 box. I am trying to get to the Diagnostics Menu by shutting off box at the set top and pressing select before 2 seconds. This use to work 9 months ago, when I got my first box. Now i get nothing black screen.This seems to be the future for these boxes, the newer they are the less we are aloud to do to them. I got mine in July10,06 and I can't even look at the software version. :(

This seems to be the future for these boxes, the newer they are the less we are aloud to do to them. I got mine in July10,06 and I can't even look at the software version. :(


This is something that is embedded into the STB by /\/\otorola. The Cable MSO's can not disable it. Use the STB and not the remote.

The Cable MSO's can not disable it. Use the STB and not the remote.Use the STB not the remote, Can you explain.

Use the STB not the remote, Can you explain.


use the select key on the STB, not on the remote.

With the STB on:

press power and then quickly press select.

Use the STB not the remote, Can you explain.

From my post:
"I am trying to get to the Diagnostics Menu by shutting off box at the set top and pressing select before 2 seconds. This use to work 9 months ago, when I got my first box"

Did work and then stopped working.

"set top" means the STB.

From my post:
"I am trying to get to the Diagnostics Menu by shutting off box at the set top and pressing select before 2 seconds. This use to work 9 months ago, when I got my first box"Did work and then stopped working.

"set top" means the STB.Thank you and scampa.
I hate to be pessimistic but having a new STB, I doubt that this procedure will work but I'll try it tonight.

I bought an HDMI cable (24 AWG) last week from monoprice to hook up my cable box (motorola 6412 w/HDMI) to my TV (Samsung HLR5067). I hooked it up last friday and everything worked fine. I turned on my TV saturday morning and I had a message on my tv saying "No signal or weak signal." I double check the hookup and everything seemed to be plugged in fine. I then switched back to my component hookup and everything was okay. I switched back to the hdmi connection and still nothing. The wierd thing was that I wasnt getting any audio either with the HDMI connection (I am running audio to the TV using composite).

I completely unplugged the cable box and plugged it back in and the HDMI connection worked fine. That is the only way to ge the HDMI connection to work. I dont have any other HDMI components, so I cant test the cable on anything else. Does anyone have any idea how to fix this or what the problem might be?

I bought an HDMI cable (24 AWG) last week from monoprice to hook up my cable box (motorola 6412 w/HDMI) to my TV (Samsung HLR5067). I hooked it up last friday and everything worked fine. I turned on my TV saturday morning and I had a message on my tv saying "No signal or weak signal." I double check the hookup and everything seemed to be plugged in fine. I then switched back to my component hookup and everything was okay. I switched back to the hdmi connection and still nothing. The wierd thing was that I wasnt getting any audio either with the HDMI connection (I am running audio to the TV using composite).

I completely unplugged the cable box and plugged it back in and the HDMI connection worked fine. That is the only way to ge the HDMI connection to work. I dont have any other HDMI components, so I cant test the cable on anything else. Does anyone have any idea how to fix this or what the problem might be?

The HDMI plug is one of the poorest pieces of engineering I've seen in consumer electronics; the DVI is miles better. I had a 6412, and now a 3412, and with both the HDMI plug on them is loose and finicky. I have to jiggle the plug around to make a good connection, and then the slighest jar will break it. (The cable works just fine in my Pio 59avi dvd player, though, so it's the HDMI plug on the cable box that's the problem.)

use the select key on the STB, not on the remote.
With the STB on:
press power and then quickly press select.
Success, it worked, sort of. Instead of select, I had to use menu. The info. that I got was very limited, I could only change display modes, 480I/P, that's all.

That is a different user settings menu, to change output resolutions/format/aspect ratio/CC

The select button gives you a diagnostic menu that you can't make any changes to, only view information. Did you try pressing the power button on the front of the STB and then pressing the select button(also on the front of the STB?) That should work...

I know it has been a year since you posted the message that I am PM to but I would like a copy of the 6412 Installer Setup Guide. I am particularly interested in finding out if/how you can change the default channel assignment of the RF output from Channel 3 to some other channel and send the signal to a second TV. I am using HDMI for my primary HDTV and Channel 3 is used by another device.

Thanks,

Paul Monson


I tried to include a Email address but I have not had 5 posts yet and was not allowed to include Email.

Did you try pressing the power button on the front of the STB and then pressing the select button(also on the front of the STB?) That should work...
Yes, but select button did not work, menu button did. However, I was only able to view some items but I was not able to change any of them. I think that the software is very limiting to the user.

Yes, but select button did not work, menu button did. However, I was only able to view some items but I was not able to change any of them. I think that the software is very limiting to the user.

Did you press the Select button after powering OFF the STB? The sequence is:

1. Be sure the STB is ON displaying a picture.
2. Press the Power button to turn it OFF.
3. Within a second or two press the Select button.

This works all the time for me on two different Moto 6412's. Do you have a 6412 box or something else?

Did you press the Select button after powering OFF the STB? The sequence is:

1. Be sure the STB is ON displaying a picture.
2. Press the Power button to turn it OFF.
3. Within a second or two press the Select button.

This works all the time for me on two different Moto 6412's. Do you have a 6412 box or something else?
Yes, it's a 6412 lll. Thanks any way, I'll try the process again tonight.

Yes, it's a 6412 lll. Thanks any way, I'll try the process again tonight.

This will work on all /\/\otorola STB used by all SAT, Cable, and FIOS systems.

This is built in to all boxes period.

it can not be disabled.

I apologize if this has been asked already.

I have a Moto 6412 III with Comcast connected via component to my Sony 60A2000 (HDMI is used for HTPC and DVD). I have audio going from optical out via toslink to my receiver. The problem I'm experiencing is the inconsistent volume when I switch channels. If I'm watching a certain channel and switch to another, the volume jumps. It is louder in the 0-100, drops down in volume in the digital channels but increases again in the 300 range (which I thought is digital also). I have to make an effort to remind myself to turn the volume down before I switch from say ESPNHD to CNN lest I blow my kids eardrums out.
I called Comcast but according to them they do not support the optical output of the 6412. They only support the coaxial output. Unfortunately, my receiver only has optical inputs. Is this a problem that can be fixed? Thanks for any help

The volume levels you are experiencing are consistant with the entire nation. It isn't just cable either. When you use an OTA receiver in the same mode, toslink or coax, the volume levels between analog channels and digital channels are loud on analog and quieter on digital. To make matters worse, even the digital channels are not on the same level, depending on the network.

Your receiver may have a compression setting that will balance all the volume differences. Be aware, however, that using that compression will alter the dynamics of the audio and it will not sound as good as it did before enabling it.

Bobby, Thanks for the info. I wonder though why the Comcast rep told me to use the coax. According to him there are no problems when going that route. I also went ahead and connected the RCA stereo outputs and did not find any difference in volume levels.

You can try this from Radio Shack http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2284678&cp=&origkw=optical+converter&kw=optical+converter&parentPage=search

They also had an old unit that I think is discontinued and at a good price, if you can find it. Catalog #15-1228. I have one here that I used to use.

Is there anything I can help with? After having digital cable for a year or so I decided to check out what kind of DVR offerings they had (they used to have awful analog recording, but now my local Comcast office has gone all digital and even though I don't have HD or the HD service, I can view the network HD channels and HBO HD (if you have ever watched SNL from this season (which is taped only in HD) on a regular 4:3 TV, you'll know what this looks like only it's a bit sharper... also when they play SD content like commercials and non-HD footage you get a box around the whole thing but I guess this is the norm.

Anyway I was able to get into my dignostics menu (oh I meant to say, I have a brand new [it even had film over the front LCD] DCT3412 models... it has HDMI and everything else like the pics you see on the first page of this post, except it doesn't have anything on the front except the main LCD and 6 buttons). It has 16 or options that you can read but of course not edit. I don't know if people still need/want any info from this box but if so let me know (I might even open it up if I don't detect a seal). Also I am in the Washington D.C. Metro area.

- DBG

Edit: Well it turns out I don't have a SATA drive, but in fact a 120GB IDE Seagate drive (I knew the brand/space just by looking through the top grill but had to get into config to know what type it was). 120GB drive makes me nervous though because that is the FAT32 limit under some systems, but it'd be cool if it would accept a 200 or 250GB drive (which you can get for 70 - 80$ these days). Also it says "Number of drives: 1" but I doubt that it has connections for more or that it'd work with more, even if you split the data and power lines.

Is there anything I can help with? After having digital cable for a year or so I decided to check out what kind of DVR offerings they had (they used to have awful analog recording, but now my local Comcast office has gone all digital and even though I don't have HD or the HD service, I can view the network HD channels and HBO HD (if you have ever watched SNL from this season (which is taped only in HD) on a regular 4:3 TV, you'll know what this looks like only it's a bit sharper... also when they play SD content like commercials and non-HD footage you get a box around the whole thing but I guess this is the norm.

Anyway I was able to get into my dignostics menu (oh I meant to say, I have a brand new [it even had film over the front LCD] DCT3412 models... it has HDMI and everything else like the pics you see on the first page of this post, except it doesn't have anything on the front except the main LCD and 6 buttons). It has 16 or options that you can read but of course not edit. I don't know if people still need/want any info from this box but if so let me know (I might even open it up if I don't detect a seal). Also I am in the Washington D.C. Metro area.

- DBG

Edit: Well it turns out I don't have a SATA drive, but in fact a 120GB IDE Seagate drive (I knew the brand/space just by looking through the top grill but had to get into config to know what type it was). 120GB drive makes me nervous though because that is the FAT32 limit under some systems, but it'd be cool if it would accept a 200 or 250GB drive (which you can get for 70 - 80$ these days). Also it says "Number of drives: 1" but I doubt that it has connections for more or that it'd work with more, even if you split the data and power lines.


Try this post in the 3412 & 3416 Comcast forum.

And no you can not add more HDD space if you rent it from comcast.

If you open the STB up, you will be charged for the cost of the unit.

Edit: Well it turns out I don't have a SATA drive, but in fact a 120GB IDE Seagate drive (I knew the brand/space just by looking through the top grill but had to get into config to know what type it was). 120GB drive makes me nervous though because that is the FAT32 limit under some systems, but it'd be cool if it would accept a 200 or 250GB drive (which you can get for 70 - 80$ these days). Also it says "Number of drives: 1" but I doubt that it has connections for more or that it'd work with more, even if you split the data and power lines.
I doubt if it's using any form of FAT for the drive format. It's probably one of the Unix/Linux-style file systems.
Currently, it only supports one drive, and only 120G or 160G drives. If you are in the US, you can get in big legal trouble if you mess with the box since you don't own it. Generally, those who have been experimenting with drives are from Canada, where it's normal to actually own the box.

The "magic" 127GB limit isn't filesystem-dependent; it's a limit imposed by the number of bits (28) used to address LBA disk sectors (512 bytes/each) on drives (or OS') that don't support LBA48 addressing.

The "magic" 127GB limit isn't filesystem-dependent; it's a limit imposed by the number of bits (28) used to address LBA disk sectors (512 bytes/each) on drives (or OS') that don't support LBA48 addressing.

In English?

Is this something that can be overcome so we can put HUGE drives in or no?

It depends on if the underlying software in the box uses LBA48 addressing or LBA28 addressing; I can't imagine any recent DVR not using the newer standard, though. (The Series 1 TiVo, which I own and is still running after 6 years and several disk upgrades, is limited to 2 x 120GB disks 'cause the kernel version used only uses LBA28 addressing).

Oh, and since the 160GB DVRs are single-drive units, they're definately using the LBA48 standard; however, there may still be limits on drive size in the underlying software.

... clear, right?! :)

Oh, and since the 160GB DVRs are single-drive units, they're definately using the LBA48 standard; however, there may still be limits on drive size in the underlying software.

... clear, right?! :)

I got nuthin. :confused:

Is this something that can be overcome so we can put HUGE drives in or no?
The Motorola boxes are NOT like a computer where you can throw anything into it. Others HAVE tried putting 300G and similar drives, and they are only recognized as 160G. Basically, the Motorola boxes only supports up to 160G. LBA (see info on Wikipedia at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Logical_block_addressing) isn't an issue since it supports 160G. It may be a file system or just marketing that causes the firmware to limit itself to 160G.
Also, the 6412 Phase I and II use IDE, but I believe the Phase III and 3412 use SATA.

You can try this from Radio Shack http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2284678&cp=&origkw=optical+converter&kw=optical+converter&parentPage=search

They also had an old unit that I think is discontinued and at a good price, if you can find it. Catalog #15-1228. I have one here that I used to use.
Or this from monoprice:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10423&cs_id=1042302&p_id=2947&seq=1&format=2&style=

It appears to be the exact same device based on the pictures...only at less than 1/3 the price. :) BTW. I didn't go out looing for that link. It just happend to be fresh on my mind as I just purchased the digital-coax version of this device from Monoprice last week. Works perfectly.

Thanks.

--
Bryce

So, as of now and probably for the good, I can throw a 160gb SATA drive into my 6412 and double my storage?

So, as of now and probably for the good, I can throw a 160gb SATA drive into my 6412 and double my storage?

No, the SATA port is not enabled, you can't just simply double your storage. The internal drive is capable of 160gb only.

I've got a 6412 PIII that I own (bought from a local store) it is registered on Shaw Cable here in Canada, from what I can see in the setup/diagnostics I've got firmware revision 12.24 and all ports are enabled on the DVR. I've had it for a while now and just have a few questions regarding it.

First, every so often I have an audio problem, basically what happens is randomly the audio will drop out and my reciever will only list 2-channel input as opposed to 5.1 input. I am using the optical audio connection. The problem happens on analog and digital channels and doesn't recitify itself by changing channels. The only way to get it to come back on is by turning the STB off and then back on (don't need to unplug). Any thoughts? I've read about other audio issues, but usually it's just a few second dropout.

Second, on my old STB (older Motorola, don't remember the model), I could use the up and down arrows to view channel listings while still watching the current channel full screen. Now that I have the 6412, the up/down arrows seem to control the recording, it seems that occasionally it will still work as before (not sure how it makes that decision, but it does, lol). Is there a way to have it setup to allow browsing show listings like on the older STBs?

Third, since all of my ports are enabled (at least it looks that way in the diagnostics), am I able to use an external hard drive with the SATA port on the back of the DVR? I've read about it, but it was always mentioned that the external SATA port was disabled by the local cable companies, since it doesn't appear to be the case here, is it usable?

Forth, since this is a dual-tuner DVR, is there some way to use P-in-P? My remote seems to have buttons for it, but the only one that works is to swap tuners, and that obviously is mainly for recording other channels while watching/recording something else. Can it be used for P-in-P?

Fifth, again since all of my ports are enabled, has anyone been able to get ethernet working to transfer files from the DVR to a PC? Just curious.



Thanks for any/all help. :)

Jeff

every so often I have an audio problem, basically what happens is randomly the audio will drop out and my reciever will only list 2-channel input as opposed to 5.1 input. I am using the optical audio connection. The problem happens on analog and digital channels and doesn't recitify itself by changing channels. The only way to get it to come back on is by turning the STB off and then back on (don't need to unplug). Any thoughts?My barely helpful thoughts are that this issue happens on my 6412p3 box every now and then also, and the only solution I've found is what you do.

I have a universal remote so I just mute/unmute the sound on the STB to get rid of the problem.

I doubt that you will be able to use an external SATA drive. My understanding is that the software/firmware is not secure enough (does not follow security requirements) to support an external SATA drive.

Yeah I tried Mute/Unmute today, seemed to work okay.

Any thoughts on the flip bar issue though? I looked it up in the menu, looks like that's what it was called.

Update: Okay, looking into it further, it's the mini guide. I can access it by pressing "Select", that works for me, but I'm still wondering if there's a way to set it to default to the mini guide if I press up/down/left/right?

Thanks again.

So, as of now and probably for the good, I can throw a 160gb SATA drive into my 6412 and double my storage?
You might be able to REPLACE the 120G with a 160G, but that is only a 33% increase, not doubling. I don't know if it supports two internal drives, and I doubt the power supply could handle it as it seems to fail just powering the box as-is!

The external SATA port is generally NOT activated. Whether it is active or not is completely under the control of your cable company, and I don't know of any that are allowing external drives with any Motorola box right now.

I think the 6412 supports (I know the 6416 does) switched power on the second outlet; you could use an external power supply and plug it in to the switch to allow for extra power.

David

The only way that I that I think that that you can get more capacity on a Motorola 6416 is to use an external hot swap capability by running the SATA cable from the internal SATA port to the hot swap kit. I think you'd have to be careful to power down the DRV prior to swapping the drive.

http://www.usb-ware.com/sata-hot-swap-external-drive-kit.htm

You might be able to REPLACE the 120G with a 160G, but that is only a 33% increase, not doubling. I don't know if it supports two internal drives, and I doubt the power supply could handle it as it seems to fail just powering the box as-is!

The external SATA port is generally NOT activated. Whether it is active or not is completely under the control of your cable company, and I don't know of any that are allowing external drives with any Motorola box right now.

If, in the diagnostics it lists the SATA port as "INST" does that mean it is active? Generally speaking Shaw usually does not limit functionality on STBs, especially when you own the box (as I do). In any case, was more curious than anything.

davidahn, the 6412 does support switched as well. It's a menu option. (As I'm sure it is on the 6416). :)

If, in the diagnostics it lists the SATA port as "INST" does that mean it is active? Generally speaking Shaw usually does not limit functionality on STBs, especially when you own the box (as I do). In any case, was more curious than anything.

davidahn, the 6412 does support switched as well. It's a menu option. (As I'm sure it is on the 6416). :)
I believe that just means that there are firmware drivers for the port. It doesn't necessarily mean that there is a software in the DRV to record information. They also indicates that the ethernet and USB ports are active but I don't know of anyway to use those either.

For what it's worth, I replaced the hard drive in my DCT 3412 over the weekend with a 400 Gigabyte Seagate Barracuda with similar specs as the original. I have been hearing that the 3412 comes in 3 configurations; 120, 160 and 320 gig (if I remember correctly) drives.

I was hoping the DVR would use all the 400 gigs but it looks like it will not. The diagnostics menu shows the unit has discovered the new drive and correctly noted the model number. But it has mis-read the actual size of the drive. It thinks the drive is a 160.

This new drive does have 16 megs cache as opposed to 2 megs in the original drive. Therefore it 'rocks' in terms of response. Very nice pause, ff, rewind performance.

I am not sure it will continue recording past 160 gigabytes. The fuel gauge for drive space on these rigs does not actually stop you from running empty. I have, on my other DVR, completely filled up the drive after many warnings and the thing keeps working right up to the end. Then it goes all monkey s*!^t and skips and burps. So I think maybe the fuel gauge is just a warning device and not a control device. So what I need to do is fill up the new drive and see what happens if I go over.

I recorded all kinds of HD stuff over the weekend and finally got it up to 74 per cent. (I think that was about 13 hours of pure HD). When I deleted an hour-long program it only went down by 4 percent. I deleted a similar program from my other DVR, a 6412III and saw an 8 percent drop!

This was a brand new Barracuda drive. I unplugged the 3412 and simply replaced the hard drive. As soon as it came back up in a minute or so I was able to pause live TV. There was no 'formal' format sequence at all. It just started working....immediately.

By the way as you might guess, not all the drive space is available for recording programs. Some space is used for housekeeping and the operating system. Upgrading from a 120 to a 160 is ony a 25 percent increase in total space but the actual space available for programs is probably more like 33 percent as "andyross" pointed out in an earlier post.

-db

For what it's worth, I replaced the hard drive in my DCT 3412 over the weekend with a 400 Gigabyte Seagate Barracuda with similar specs as the original. I have been hearing that the 3412 comes in 3 configurations; 120, 160 and 320 gig (if I remember correctly) drives.

I was hoping the DVR would use all the 400 gigs but it looks like it will not. The diagnostics menu shows the unit has discovered the new drive and correctly noted the model number. But it has mis-read the actual size of the drive. It thinks the drive is a 160.

This new drive does have 16 megs cache as opposed to 2 megs in the original drive. Therefore it 'rocks' in terms of response. Very nice pause, ff, rewind performance.

I am not sure it will continue recording past 160 gigabytes. The fuel gauge for drive space on these rigs does not actually stop you from running empty. I have, on my other DVR, completely filled up the drive after many warnings and the thing keeps working right up to the end. Then it goes all monkey s*!^t and skips and burps. So I think maybe the fuel gauge is just a warning device and not a control device. So what I need to do is fill up the new drive and see what happens if I go over.

I recorded all kinds of HD stuff over the weekend and finally got it up to 74 per cent. (I think that was about 13 hours of pure HD). When I deleted an hour-long program it only went down by 4 percent. I deleted a similar program from my other DVR, a 6412III and saw an 8 percent drop!

This was a brand new Barracuda drive. I unplugged the 3412 and simply replaced the hard drive. As soon as it came back up in a minute or so I was able to pause live TV. There was no 'formal' format sequence at all. It just started working....immediately.

By the way as you might guess, not all the drive space is available for recording programs. Some space is used for housekeeping and the operating system. Upgrading from a 120 to a 160 is ony a 25 percent increase in total space but the actual space available for programs is probably more like 33 percent as "andyross" pointed out in an earlier post.

-db

The 3412 does not come in 120, 160, 320 models. The 3412 is the 120 model.

The 3416p2 is the newest model produced and now being made available via comcast. It has 160 gb.

No one has yet to order the 3432 model from /\/\otorola. that is the one with 320gb HDD.

I also hope you own your 3412 that you took apart.

The 3416p2 is the newest model produced and now being made available via comcast. It has 160 gb.

This is great news for me. I'm gonna talk to my local Comcast and see if they can find a couple of these boxes for me. 33% more show/movie storage would be great.

No one has yet to order the 3432 model from /\/\otorola. that is the one with 320gb HDD.

Man, I can't wait until we can get these. :cool:

As I understand it, the 34xx units do not have an analog tuner. Does this mean that I could not watch the lowered number channels that are analog channels?

For instance, I have digital service from Comcast currently with the 6412. Sometimes I watch shows like the Travel Channel 39. As I understand it that's an analog channel. So does that mean that with my TV (HDTV) fed via HDMI/DVI I would not be able to watch that channel?

I'm a bit puzzeled because that would seem quite limiting so I'm wondering if there are really that many people that do not watch channels below 100 to make a 34xx a viable option. Either that or I am wrong about my assumption here.

Can someone please clarify this? Thanks.

Compared to the 6412, does the 6416 or 34xx boxes run any cooler? Mine is not perfectly ventilated and when I run the DVD player it gets warm enough to kick the STB into a high fan mode which is really loud. I'm hoping the newer models of these STBs would not exhibit this same behavior.

As I understand it, the 34xx units do not have an analog tuner. Does this mean that I could not watch the lowered number channels that are analog channels?

For instance, I have digital service from Comcast currently with the 6412. Sometimes I watch shows like the Travel Channel 39. As I understand it that's an analog channel. So does that mean that with my TV (HDTV) fed via HDMI/DVI I would not be able to watch that channel?

I'm a bit puzzeled because that would seem quite limiting so I'm wondering if there are really that many people that do not watch channels below 100 to make a 34xx a viable option. Either that or I am wrong about my assumption here.

Can someone please clarify this? Thanks.

The 3412, if available in your area, will work just fine. These units are available only in areas that have digital simulcast (ADS). The channels 2-99 will still appear int he same places but will be digital instead of analog.

Hi, will comcast (now time warner) alow me to exchange my motorola 6412 III with a model that will alow me to add extra space. By plugging in an external sata drive, or even internal? yes i know the internal choice would void the warranty, however, your answer won't void the warranty so go a head and tell me. :)

Comcast doesn't support external SATA drives, so nothing will happen when you plug it in. You can swap the 120GB drive internally for a like model at 160GB to get a little more space, but as you said that can void the warranty so do it at your own risk:eek:

i could have swarn i saw a differnt model that allowed external harddrives. i'll have to search and try to find that post... hrmm, it was a while ago, maybe it was for another cable co...

Well yes, the SA 8300 DVR does support external SATA drives, but I think that's only in areas that use that brand and not the Motorola STBs.

Which brand DVRs do they use in your area....Motorola or Scientific Atlanta?

theres no way to install an internal hdd with more than 160GB's?

The 3412 does not come in 120, 160, 320 models. The 3412 is the 120 model.

The 3416p2 is the newest model produced and now being made available via comcast. It has 160 gb.

No one has yet to order the 3432 model from /\/\otorola. that is the one with 320gb HDD.

I also hope you own your 3412 that you took apart.

Easy there Sheriff, I didn't break it.

When the wife finally kicks me out of the house I'll put the little bitty drive back in and Comcast will never know. I even bought the little plastic 'security breach' detector and the Nintendo tool for the crazy screw heads.

Thanks for setting me straight on model numbers. Since it really is the same box with different size hard drives I took the liberty of dubbing them all 3412 and 6412. Perhaps the monicer 64xx and 34xx would have been more appropriate.

Zodiacal, you can swap the drive for something larger than 160 but it won't buy you any more space.....so they say.
But, until I fill up my 400 gig drive I am not convinced this is true. I'll let you know in a day or two.

-db

yes please let me know. i am constatly deleteing stuff. HDTV is just huge... either post back here if you broke the 160GB limit or i'll come hunting for you with pm's. :)

Just go to the service menu and look at the total capacity...

debyrd, yes please check out your service menu for all of us!

debyrd, yes please check out your service menu for all of us!

Yep, I did that first thing. It thinks it has a 160 gig drive. But it came up with the correct model number for the 400 gig. I was holding out hope that it would actually use more than the 160.

Fact is, it only uses the 160 gigs. Once the fuel guage hits 98 per cent, it deletes the oldest program and keeps on recording.

I did record 19 hours of HD programming and that is an improvement. The 160 gig machines are simply not available in Douglasville (West Atlanta) Georgia.

In areas of the country where 3416 DVRs are available, you might just get lucky.
Perhaps the firmware for the 3432 is in place and the rig will recognize a drive larger than 160. Although "Scanpa" reports that no service provider has ordered the 3432 yet.

For me, this desperate move to add recording space is well worth the anxiety and expense. ($119 on the 'Outpost' web site).
Space is only a problem at my house when all the new shows are on.

-db

take that drive back and get a 50 dollar 160GB drive from newegg here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16822148149

How hard is it to switch the drives out, could you fill one up and switch in a new one.

I am sure it is a PITA for the amount of benefit, but if you could extend cables and bring the drive outside the unit - anyone try that yet.