Btw, will Paradigm typically just send out a new driver, or will they send a whole new speaker? These speakers are still less than two weeks old. Something else I just remembered about the S1's, the driver is attached from the inside. I think you would have to take the whole unit apart to swap it out.

Now I'm not as stoked to see my new amp(A5), which should arrive early this week.:rolleyes:

Forgive me if you mentioned this earlier in the thread, but did you buy them new from an authorized dealer?? ..If so, it would be completely reasonable for you to insist on replacement of the pair. When you pay for "NEW" and you buy a premium brand (and it's "Signature" line, no less) you expect it to be perfect. You shouldn't have to open them or let a dealer do so.

Before plunking down $6500 (which to me is a TON of $$$ to spend on speakers) I actually asked the retailer where I bought my S8's what they'd do if I had a problem like this with my S8 v.2's. ..And they gave the right answer, the said "We'd replace them - no questions asked."

Paradigm is good company, I think if you ask for a quick replacement of the pair, they will comply. ..Then they should smack the hand of the QA person who didn't catch the problem.

i guess i will ask again, can i pair the S6s with a CC-690 centre?yes my local shop mixes the studio and sig line.

agreed, I did this for a while until I got my C5 into the mix with my S8's

For HT, I just don't see it as being a huge problem, you'll of coarse get a better midrange tightness and power, as well as a sweeter tweeter and improved dispersion as well with a Sig Center...

the 690 has plenty of punch though... :)

I would buy a used Sig center before i would buy a new Studio cc690. or even a Sig W5c on wall to save some bucks.

I set up a friend's HT the other day which had a Sub 12 with PBK and a Denon 4308 with Audessey. We set it up both ways, with PBK and with only Audessey. Without a doubt the PBK made a huge diff. As you may know, pbk was developed for subs but has it's roots in the Anthem Room Correction program that comes with their pre/pros. It is a fantastic addition to any HT and tops the Audessey that comes with the middle of the road receivers. So what we did was do the pbk and then do audessey over this, including the sub when doing audessey measurements and the sub improved immensly. IMHO, audessey will not do for the sub what PBK will.
John

I totally agree with this assessment. I set up my dual Sub 12's using the PBK kit, followed by the Audyssey MultEQ XT in my 3808. This method gave me the most pleasing results. IMHO, the PBK is a better sub only eq than the version included within MultEQ XT. Although I have no personal experience with it, Audyssey Pro might be worth a look as a possible alternative.

I totally agree with this assessment. I set up my dual Sub 12's using the PBK kit, followed by the Audyssey MultEQ XT in my 3808. This method gave me the most pleasing results. IMHO, the PBK is a better sub only eq than the version included within MultEQ XT. Although I have no personal experience with it, Audyssey Pro might be worth a look as a possible alternative.

Audyssey Pro works with the XT platform in the receiver, it can calculate more measurements and set target curves etc, but still only has the filters available in the receiver to work with.

The PBK probably has higher resolution and more filters through the frequency band it works in, so it's not surprising it could get better results. It would be very similar to using the AS-EQ1 with an Audyssey based unit, except way cheaper. ($250 I think I read somewhere?)

Forgive me if you mentioned this earlier in the thread, but did you buy them new from an authorized dealer?? ..If so, it would be completely reasonable for you to insist on replacement of the pair. When you pay for "NEW" and you buy a premium brand (and it's "Signature" line, no less) you expect it to be perfect. You shouldn't have to open them or let a dealer do so.

Before plunking down $6500 (which to me is a TON of $$$ to spend on speakers) I actually asked the retailer where I bought my S8's what they'd do if I had a problem like this with my S8 v.2's. ..And they gave the right answer, the said "We'd replace them - no questions asked."

Paradigm is good company, I think if you ask for a quick replacement of the pair, they will comply. ..Then they should smack the hand of the QA person who didn't catch the problem.

Yes, I picked them up from an authorized dealer. I agree with you, and I will most definately request a full replacement.

wall mounts for adp 590

thanks bert

I set up a friend's HT the other day which had a Sub 12 with PBK and a Denon 4308 with Audessey. We set it up both ways, with PBK and with only Audessey. Without a doubt the PBK made a huge diff. As you may know, pbk was developed for subs but has it's roots in the Anthem Room Correction program that comes with their pre/pros. It is a fantastic addition to any HT and tops the Audessey that comes with the middle of the road receivers. So what we did was do the pbk and then do audessey over this, including the sub when doing audessey measurements and the sub improved immensly. IMHO, audessey will not do for the sub what PBK will.
John

Thanks! I will look into it now. :)

I totally agree with this assessment. I set up my dual Sub 12's using the PBK kit, followed by the Audyssey MultEQ XT in my 3808. This method gave me the most pleasing results. IMHO, the PBK is a better sub only eq than the version included within MultEQ XT. Although I have no personal experience with it, Audyssey Pro might be worth a look as a possible alternative.

If you are considering Audessey Pro for your whole room then yes you would experience a diff. But if to improve only the sub, PBK as I mentioned is an off shoot of Anthem Room Correction which IMHO will do the best job with sub only and at a much lower price. For the price of Audessey pro, you could probably get and Anthem AVM 50v which would allow you to do your entire system, but then that is another story:D
John

If you are considering Audessey Pro for your whole room then yes you would experience a diff. But if to improve only the sub, PBK as I mentioned is an off shoot of Anthem Room Correction which IMHO will do the best job with sub only and at a much lower price. For the price of Audessey pro, you could probably get and Anthem AVM 50v which would allow you to do your entire system, but then that is another story:D
John

Audyssey Pro capability is built in to the receiver or pre-pro - the the kit just has mic, pre-amp and calculating software which runs on a laptop, as I posted above it can only use the available filters etc of the receiver or pre-pro. The kit is about double the price of PBK kit. The PBK is probably no different in that the actual filters etc must be in the subs' processor.

There are two stand alone Audyssey EQ's with one being a balanced version, they have double the resolution of the on-board XT platform. There's also the stand alone "Sub EQ" which is rebadged as the SVS unit I mentioned above.

The balanced SEQ might be close to the price of the AVM50 but not the other one and certainly not the Sub EQ or Pro kit. ;)

If you are considering Audessey Pro for your whole room then yes you would experience a diff. But if to improve only the sub, PBK as I mentioned is an off shoot of Anthem Room Correction which IMHO will do the best job with sub only and at a much lower price. For the price of Audessey pro, you could probably get and Anthem AVM 50v which would allow you to do your entire system, but then that is another story:D
John

Actually, I was suggesting Audyssey Pro as a possible alternative for those of us using the PBK along with MultEQ XT.;) But, if the PBK does in fact have higher resolution filters than Audyssey Pro for the sub channel, then a PBK/MultEQ XT solution might actually be the better of the two options.

For the price of Audessey pro, you could probably get and Anthem AVM 50v which would allow you to do your entire system, but then that is another story

Pretty sure the Aud Pro kit runs around $400 to $500. Wish my Onkyo 876 was Pro capable (and wished I had looked that up before selling my Integra 9.8 for the 876...)

Actually, I was suggesting Audyssey Pro as a possible alternative for those of us using the PBK along with MultEQ XT.;) But, if the PBK does in fact have higher resolution filters than Audyssey Pro for the sub channel, then a PBK/MultEQ XT solution might actually be the better of the two options.

Yes, and I think it's beneficial to use them together otherwise the critical time domain and delays could be off. The PBK might introduce a significant delay because it will have to do A/D /processing/ D/A.
I'm not all that familiar with the PBK so I'm not sure if they have a process to deal with that.
A lot of people used the SMS-1 the same way with Audyssey with good results.

FWIW, the SVS & SubEQ work in conjunction with the on-board Audyssey, and doesn't require the unit to have Pro capability.

I just talked with my dealer about my S1 with the DOA driver. He says that the way Paradigm deals with these incidents is by sending out a new driver only. Apparently they don't normally do full speaker replacements. I guess I'm OK with this as long as my warranty isn't affected. Plus, I will have him do the swap, just to be sure that I don't damage something and void the warranty.:eek:

I just talked with my dealer about my S1 with the DOA driver. He says that the way Paradigm deals with these incidents is by sending out a new driver only. Apparently they don't normally do full speaker replacements. I guess I'm OK with this as long as my warranty isn't affected. Plus, I will have him do the swap, just to be sure that I don't damage something and void the warranty.:eek:

Good dealers will probably give you a new unit and hang on to the defective one to repair and sell. The reality is whith shipping costs it makes more sense to ship the part than the speaker. If the cabinet showed up damaged that would likely be a full replacement.

Pretty sure the Aud Pro kit runs around $400 to $500. Wish my Onkyo 876 was Pro capable (and wished I had looked that up before selling my Integra 9.8 for the 876...)

I think closer to the bottom end of that scale then you have to buy the unlimited use license for your unit at $150.

I just talked with my dealer about my S1 with the DOA driver. He says that the way Paradigm deals with these incidents is by sending out a new driver only. Apparently they don't normally do full speaker replacements. I guess I'm OK with this as long as my warranty isn't affected. Plus, I will have him do the swap, just to be sure that I don't damage something and void the warranty.:eek:

For me, it's the principle of the thing. ..If you had purchased a pair of cheap Polk Audio's at Best Buy or Costco, they'd simply take them back and hand you a new pair with no questions asked. ..Yet, somehow, by chosing to purchase a premium brand from a specialized dealer, you're expected to keep them and let someone open them up to swap out parts, as if you were buying B-Stock. The S1's are $1000+ dollar bookshelf speakers, for goodness sake (they're awesome, too - I've heard them)!! ..Your decision to spend extravagantly should be rewarded with better service than what you'd find at a big-box store, not worse. ..I don't mean to project my neurosis on you, but you should consider being more insistent.

Of course, it's all really up to you... If you're okay with them just replacing the driver, then no worries. ..In all likelihood, you'll end up with speakers that are indistinguishable from NIB. ..I'm just very picky about this stuff.

For me, it's the principle of the thing. ..If you had purchased a pair of cheap Polk Audio's at Best Buy or Costco, they'd simply take them back and hand you a new pair with no questions asked. ..Yet, somehow, by chosing to purchase a premium brand from a specialized dealer, you're expected to keep them and let someone open them up to swap out parts, as if you were buying B-Stock. The S1's are $1000+ dollar bookshelf speakers, for goodness sake (they're awesome, too - I've heard them)!! ..Your decision to spend extravagantly should be rewarded with better service than what you'd find at a big-box store, not worse. ..I don't mean to project my neurosis on you, but you should consider being more insistent.

Of course, it's all really up to you... If you're okay with them just replacing the driver, then no worries. ..In all likelihood, you'll end up with speakers that are indistinguishable from NIB. ..I'm just very picky about this stuff.

I think I agree, especially if the speakers have a return period. If there are no returns, then I could understand them wanting to handle it through the "warranty" but much like at BestBuy... if it's within the return period, they'll just exchange the defective speaker with a new one rather than going through the warranty.

Brac
I have the A5 and A2 amps they are wonderful.

chester

Wow you guys just don't get it, that's an unrealistic expectation.

A Signature system can cost as much as a car - do you expect the dealer to replace the car or repair it if something is wrong? Of course you get the repair - you have no choice.

Best Buy has distribution centers at hubs servicing a ton of stores and when they order, they order for all of North America. The crux of that is they have inventory - tons of it and shipping costs are seriously minimized to the point of being almost irrelevant.

Paradigm dealers are on a completely different level for the most part, and the smaller stores simply can't afford to stock countless Signature products - they probably have some stock on the cheaper lines but it's not likely they'll have like 10 pairs of S8's for $60,000 when they might sell 10 all year.

Wow you guys just don't get it, that's an unrealistic expectation.

A Signature system can cost as much as a car - do you expect the dealer to replace the car or repair it if something is wrong? Of course you get the repair - you have no choice.

Best Buy has distribution centers at hubs servicing a ton of stores and when they order, they order for all of North America. The crux of that is they have inventory - tons of it and shipping costs are seriously minimized to the point of being almost irrelevant.

Paradigm dealers are on a completely different level for the most part, and the smaller stores simply can't afford to stock countless Signature products - they probably have some stock on the cheaper lines but it's not likely they'll have like 10 pairs of S8's for $60,000 when they might sell 10 all year.

..I don't follow your point. Paradigm sends out a replacement pair to the dealer and, when they arrive, the customer brings the defective pair in to swap. I can accept that the dealer may not have a replacement pair on hand.

The more I think about it, the more I feel that if one of the speakers was DOA, then a new pair should be provided. ..Simple as that. I can appreciate that Paradigm might want to first see if the customer would be okay with simply swapping out the driver - as it is cheaper for Paradigm to do this. But if the customer bawks at this - as I surely would (politely, but firmly) - then Paradigm should replace it.

Remember, this problem was there upon opening an A-Stock box. If the customer paid for a brand new A-Stock pair, then that is what he should get. ..To pay for a perfect pair, then have someone swap out a driver, is like paying full-price for a B-Stock speaker. ..I know this paints me (and many here) as a bit anal-retentive, but that's who Paradigm sells it's Signature series to. ..People who expect the best and are willing to pay for it. ..And what about resale?? ..If he sells these and someone asks if any drivers had been replaced, he'll have to say yes. ..If he says no, then the buyer sees that the screws show signs of having been removed, he'll be responsible.

I really believe that, if pressed, Paradigm will indeed ship out a new pair AND allow the dealer to send back the first. ..Yes, this means they'll have to forfeit some of the profit they made on the deal, but that's fair b/c it was they who shipped a defective set of speakers.

As I said earlier, if the dealer has stock he might have that option. Bottom line though it's economies of scale. You can't compare it to box stores like Best Buy.
Also a driver can be over-nighted or take maybe three days regular parcel express, but something like an S8 at 130lbs each would have to go over road from Ontario and that could take a long time depending on where you are.
I had to order my S8's and it took 10 days, and I'm in Canada no customs involved - the dealer had zero "in stock". If the same thing happened to me what would he replace it with? Frankly with these beasts I'd prefer he came and replaced the driver at my home instead of lugging one back and forth.
It's not like the warrantee is voided by replacing the driver so what's the big deal? They're held in by machine grade alan bolts, you're not going to hurt those.

Hello anybody,
Can I get help with posting my Paradigm Millenia 20's for sale on this site. I tried but I got a message telling me I did not have enough points? Any help would be nice.

chester

As I said earlier, if the dealer has stock he's got that option. Bottom line though it's economies of scale. You can't compare it to box stores like Best Buy.

I'm not following you on this. ..The replacement pair shouldn't come from the dealers stock. Paradigm should send it to customer directly, or perhaps send it to the dealer for them to act as their agent in handling the swap.

Please understand.. I'm not looking to crucify Paradigm for shipping a defective speaker. ..Things happen. And I don't fault them for trying to first suggest simply swapping out the drivers for if the customer is satisfied with it, then that is what matters. And I don't blame the dealer for not having a replacement pair on hand. ..It's not feasible for a small business to carry duplicate inventory for all of their gear. ..But if a customer pays for new, then gets a product that is DOA, and the customer wants a replacement the manufacturer has no choice but to replace it. ..Otherwise, the customer should demand a full-refund from the retailer. ..But again, I very much doubt that Paradigm will rebuff the request. ..I fully expect them to say, "sure, if this is what will satisfy you, then we'll replace the pair".

As I said, my retailer told me that they would absolutely replace my pair of S8's if they arrived with any damage or problems whatsoever.

Keep in mind that, paradigm sends signature speakers out in matched sets so the veneer matches. So then to replace a malfunctioning speaker they would have to both be shipped back, and a new set shipped out. So your totally down and out until the new speaks show up. Just a thought.

You guys all make some great points... Normally, I would likely put pressure on the dealer for a full replacement, but I have an excellent ongoing accord with them. Not only that, these guys aren't even a Paradigm Reference or Anthem dealer, but due to their solid affiliation with their Paradigm distributor, they were able to special order me both the Sig's and A5. And, at very significant discounts as well. So considering that they don't even sell or stock S1's, and did me a small favour, I'm not about to push the issue.

I set up a friend's HT the other day which had a Sub 12 with PBK and a Denon 4308 with Audessey. We set it up both ways, with PBK and with only Audessey. Without a doubt the PBK made a huge diff. As you may know, pbk was developed for subs but has it's roots in the Anthem Room Correction program that comes with their pre/pros. It is a fantastic addition to any HT and tops the Audessey that comes with the middle of the road receivers. So what we did was do the pbk and then do audessey over this, including the sub when doing audessey measurements and the sub improved immensly. IMHO, audessey will not do for the sub what PBK will.
John

I phoned Paradigm Tech, and they suggested Audessey first then PBK 2nd...
Of interest is I did a 2nd Audesey then PBK for a 2nd time... the curve for the PBK was much better than the 1st time :-)

Hello everyone.

I just thought I'd make a post here as a Paradigm Reference owner since I believe 1996 when I bought a pair of the v.1 Studio 20s with the Paradigm matching stands (filled with lead shot). I later picked up a Reference CC-450, and I am now picking up a set of v.5 Studio 60s. The 20s will move to the rear as monopole surrounds. On the sub-end, I'm using a 12" push pull dual driver MK sub (MX-90 with upgraded drivers per MK's specs), which I find remarkable.

I now listen mainly with video sources because I have little kids and less time to "just listen" and will be looking for more opportunities to do so simply with audio in the near future. I think I'll try the setup with the existing center channel right now and just try to decide if I should upgrade that unit.

I've read over the last 50 or so pages of this thread, and I've been really enjoying it!

Hello everyone.

I just thought I'd make a post here as a Paradigm Reference owner since I believe 1996 when I bought a pair of the v.1 Studio 20s with the Paradigm matching stands (filled with lead shot). I later picked up a Reference CC-450, and I am now picking up a set of v.5 Studio 60s. The 20s will move to the rear as monopole surrounds. On the sub-end, I'm using a 12" push pull dual driver MK sub (MX-90 with upgraded drivers per MK's specs), which I find remarkable.

I now listen mainly with video sources because I have little kids and less time to "just listen" and will be looking for more opportunities to do so simply with audio in the near future. I think I'll try the setup with the existing center channel right now and just try to decide if I should upgrade that unit.

I've read over the last 50 or so pages of this thread, and I've been really enjoying it!welcome, glad to have you. enjoy:)

I'm not following you on this. ..The replacement pair shouldn't come from the dealers stock. Paradigm should send it to customer directly, or perhaps send it to the dealer for them to act as their agent in handling the swap.

Please understand.. I'm not looking to crucify Paradigm for shipping a defective speaker. ..Things happen. And I don't fault them for trying to first suggest simply swapping out the drivers for if the customer is satisfied with it, then that is what matters. And I don't blame the dealer for not having a replacement pair on hand. ..It's not feasible for a small business to carry duplicate inventory for all of their gear. ..But if a customer pays for new, then gets a product that is DOA, and the customer wants a replacement the manufacturer has no choice but to replace it. ..Otherwise, the customer should demand a full-refund from the retailer. ..But again, I very much doubt that Paradigm will rebuff the request. ..I fully expect them to say, "sure, if this is what will satisfy you, then we'll replace the pair".

As I said, my retailer told me that they would absolutely replace my pair of S8's if they arrived with any damage or problems whatsoever.

In a perfect world yes, and if you're willing to wait why not, that makes sense I guess if it's DOA out of the box. But if you've used it and it was fine then broke, it's a warranty issue. Maybe that's where we're getting our wires crossed.
Personally I'd certainly want new speakers if the cabinet was damaged, no different than furniture, but anything else I would settle for a component replacement if that was the quickest option given the modular design. Swapping a driver is childs' play, easier than putting together Ikea furniture! ;)

I phoned Paradigm Tech, and they suggested Audessey first then PBK 2nd...


Did he explain why? Because that doesn't make any sense. The PBK would have to introduce a delay that Audyssey wouldn't be able to compensate for. That would put the sub out "sync" with the rest of the system...

I phoned Paradigm Tech, and they suggested Audessey first then PBK 2nd...
Of interest is I did a 2nd Audesey then PBK for a 2nd time... the curve for the PBK was much better than the 1st time :-)

Ahhh...I just read it is not compatable with my sub...hmmm....a future purchase way down the line then.

Did he explain why? Because that doesn't make any sense. The PBK would have to introduce a delay that Audyssey wouldn't be able to compensate for. That would put the sub out "sync" with the rest of the system...

My guess, after reading the manuals, is that it is more precise than audessey wrt the subwoofer.

Audessey puts all your speakers basically where they should be and the PBK fine tunes the sub to a greater degree.

My guess, after reading the manuals, is that it is more precise than audessey wrt the subwoofer.

Audessey puts all your speakers basically where they should be and the PBK fine tunes the sub to a greater degree.

Yes it's probably more precise, but as I said earlier Audyssey also corrects the "timing" of frequencies to the listening positions for all speakers including the sub. Adding a delay, that the PBK would have to do (remember a/d/processing/d/a conversion) would throw that off.

Maybe the sub on its own might sound better, but it would be out of sync, and the end result could create worse overall effect because of it.

Again, I don't know much about the PBK or if they've got a way to interface with Audyssey to alleviate that potential issue, but I know Audyssey was very adamant you run the SMS-1 first and then run the Audyssey over top for that very reason. This seems to me to be no different.

Yes it's probably more precise, but as I said earlier Audyssey also corrects the "timing" of frequencies to the listening positions for all speakers including the sub. Adding a delay, that the PBK would have to do (remember a/d/processing/d/a conversion) would throw that off.

Maybe the sub on its own might sound better, but it would be out of sync, and the end result could create worse overall effect because of it.

Again, I don't know much about the PBK or if they've got a way to interface with Audyssey to alleviate that potential issue, but I know Audyssey was very adamant you run the SMS-1 first and then run the Audyssey over top for that very reason. This seems to me to be no different.i guess this is another reason to get a Anthem 50v or D2v

In a perfect world yes, and if you're willing to wait why not, that makes sense I guess if it's DOA out of the box. But if you've used it and it was fine then broke, it's a warranty issue. Maybe that's where we're getting our wires crossed.
Personally I'd certainly want new speakers if the cabinet was damaged, no different than furniture, but anything else I would settle for a component replacement if that was the quickest option given the modular design. Swapping a driver is childs' play, easier than putting together Ikea furniture! ;)

..Since BRAC has agreed to having the driver replaced this is now just an academic discussion.

I do understand that its not easy, or even possible, for small specialty stores to offer the same exact return/exchange policy that we've come to expect from big box stores, but if they're to survive they - and the mfgs whose products they sell - will have to find a way to improve. ..For Paradigm to tell BRAC's dealer that they insist on fixing this by swapping out the bad driver is wrong. High-end Audiophiles are a very picky segment of the consumer electronics market and as such have a right to expect that a product work on arrival or it gets replaced without protest. ..Yes, its a different story if it works for a period of time then fails, but right out of the box??

i guess this is another reason to get a Anthem 50v or D2v

Not really, I'd bet you'd have to do it the same way, ie run the PBK then the ARC.

..Yes, its a different story if it works for a period of time then fails, but right out of the box??

That's what I said. You quoted me, but did you read what I wrote? I agreed with you on DOA out of the box.

Not really, I'd bet you'd have to do it the same way, ie run the PBK then the ARC.i thought if you have ARC you dont need the PBK?

I phoned Paradigm Tech, and they suggested Audessey first then PBK 2nd...
Of interest is I did a 2nd Audesey then PBK for a 2nd time... the curve for the PBK was much better than the 1st time :-)

I agree with rnrgagne... I don't see how this could work properly. The biggest reason why I like Audyssey is for its ability to blend all the channels together more naturally, especially the sub. It makes for a more immersive and realistic surround experience. Imho, if you run Audyssey first and then PBK second, you will basically undo most of the benefits you just gained from Audyssey. Plus, I can't imagine Audyssey doing much, if any, damage to your initial PBK results.

i thought if you have ARC you dont need the PBK?

Probably not need.

But, the general EQ built into the unit (XT or ARC) will have a finite amount of filters and processing power it can use and those have to be spread through the entire frequency range. The subs' EQ (PBK or SubEQ) will likely have both higher resolution and more filters dedicated to the sub only frequencies.

So in essence it'll do the heavy lifting for the sub channel, and the ARC or XT will see a reasonably flat sub and do the last little tweaks including the timing and level matching. Depending on the room and sub that could be a significant benefit, on the other hand if the in-room response is reasonably flat to begin with there might not be much of an advantage to be gained.

That's what I said. You quoted me, but did you read what I wrote? I agreed with you on DOA out of the box.

..Yes, I did, thanks and sorry I didn't address that part of your remark. ..My comment was meant more as rhetorical statement intended for dealers/mfgs. who may be lurking.

Probably not need.

But, the general EQ built into the unit (XT or ARC) will have a finite amount of filters and processing power it can use and those have to be spread through the entire frequency range. The subs' EQ (PBK or SubEQ) will likely have both higher resolution and more filters dedicated to the sub only frequencies.

So in essence it'll do the heavy lifting for the sub channel, and the ARC or XT will see a reasonably flat sub and do the last little tweaks including the timing and level matching. Depending on the room and sub that could be a significant benefit, on the other hand if the in-room response is reasonably flat to begin with there might not be much of an advantage to be gained.will the pbk help in 2-3 additional subs?

will the pbk help in 2-3 additional subs?

I don't know much about the PBK, just the concepts in play. I think that would depend if it had blending capability or not. No doubt you can EQ each sub individually, but how they interact wouldn't be addressed if it couldn't.

With the Audyssey or ARC of the pre-pro it will blend as many subs as there are channels dedicated to subs. The AVP has three sub outs and can be EQ'd individually, then summed as one or run as L/R & LFE subs as an example.

So, i'm thinking about investing in a good set of speakers (~$500 or so). The speakers would be used for movies, music, etc. I read about the Paradigm 110's going on sale for $500 on slickdeals.net and have been thinking about them. Any suggestions - would it be better for me to purchase just a couple of high-end at $200+ a pop and slowly grow that from 2.1-4.1-5.1-etc? Or do you think that the Paradigm 110s are a really good price for some kick arse speakers? - By the way, I live in an apartment, but it has super thick walls and my neighbors are never home so not too worried about the amount of sound. However, my living room is smaller. I do want something that I can grow with though so that I can eventually move them into a house when I purchase one in the next couple of years.

i currently run adp-190's v5 as side surround duty (sits between both front and rear seats of the room) and some older titan v2's as rear (behind rear seat). I wanted to eliminate the v2's and purchase some additional 190's. however after calling the dealer the price for adp-190's v6 is 50% more than what i paid for my v5's. rest of the set up consists of mini-monitors and cc-290; both v5.

am i ok leaving the set up as is or should i switch places with the speakers? basically, adp to the rear and titans to side duty.

i also considered selling both the titans and the adp's and trying something different, just not sure what.

Does anybody know a place in las vegas to listen to paradigm speakers. Paradigm website lists a place that isnt here anymore.

Can anyone with personal knowledge tell me if the cherry finish on the sig v1 is the same as the cherry finish for the v2 and v3? If I want a perfect match in terms of color/looks, do you have to stay within the same series?

What about in terms of sound? I know the v1 has a G-Pal tweeter - would it be better to match v1 fronts with a v1 center since they would have the same G-Pal tweeter, or would it be ok or even better to match v1 fronts with a v2 or v3 center and its beryllium tweeter?

Can anyone with personal knowledge tell me if the cherry finish on the sig v1 is the same as the cherry finish for the v2 and v3? If I want a perfect match in terms of color/looks, do you have to stay within the same series?

What about in terms of sound? I know the v1 has a G-Pal tweeter - would it be better to match v1 fronts with a v1 center since they would have the same G-Pal tweeter, or would it be ok or even better to match v1 fronts with a v2 or v3 center and its beryllium tweeter?

I believe for a "true" timbre match (edit: as close to a true timbre match you can get without using identical speakers that is - i.e., all 3 the same), you'd need the same tweeter and personally I'd match the v1's with v1's.

Can anyone with personal knowledge tell me if the cherry finish on the sig v1 is the same as the cherry finish for the v2 and v3? If I want a perfect match in terms of color/looks, do you have to stay within the same series?

What about in terms of sound? I know the v1 has a G-Pal tweeter - would it be better to match v1 fronts with a v1 center since they would have the same G-Pal tweeter, or would it be ok or even better to match v1 fronts with a v2 or v3 center and its beryllium tweeter?


The finishes are different on different runs of veneer, they would be close but not an identical match... Its all in the run of veneer and how it takes the stain, that is why they try to sell speakers as a matched set and within the same run so they match better.

I don't think it would be a problem with using a .v2 or .v3 center with what you have, the clarity and dispersion will be a bit better with a .v2 or .v3 center for voices, I wouldn't hesitate..

Probably not need.

But, the general EQ built into the unit (XT or ARC) will have a finite amount of filters and processing power it can use and those have to be spread through the entire frequency range. The subs' EQ (PBK or SubEQ) will likely have both higher resolution and more filters dedicated to the sub only frequencies.

So in essence it'll do the heavy lifting for the sub channel, and the ARC or XT will see a reasonably flat sub and do the last little tweaks including the timing and level matching. Depending on the room and sub that could be a significant benefit, on the other hand if the in-room response is reasonably flat to begin with there might not be much of an advantage to be gained.

ARC uses two DSP boards capable of a lot of processing power that will have no problem doing your sub and yes, you don't need pbk with ARC. My Servo 15 with ARC was corrected superbly inspite of having to do some heavy work with my other speakers.
John

I phoned Paradigm Tech, and they suggested Audessey first then PBK 2nd...
Of interest is I did a 2nd Audesey then PBK for a 2nd time... the curve for the PBK was much better than the 1st time :-)

Not sure how this would work given pbk is done inside the sub and and audessey is done within the receiver. Therefore audessey has no effect on the sub internal dsp when pbk is running so pbk won't know what audessey did. But when audessey runs with pbk done on the sub, it will hear a diff sub response. Does this make sense?
John

A few weeks ago I started hearing a faint distortion on my CC-590 v4. It was so faint that I wasn't sure if it was me, the sound track, or a problem with the speaker.

You really can only hear it at certain frequencies so it was not something I could just pop in a movie and check for, but last night I was watching "What about Brian" and over the cheesy music I heard it like never before. Blown driver - here is definitely some buzzing and distortion coming from the left base driver.

I am disappointed to find a problem after only two years of what I consider very conservative use but I guess these things happen. I fully expect my dealer and Paradigm to make things right.

I had a defective ADP-590 3 months after purchase that the dealer just replaced with anew one, so I'm pretty sure he will step up on this issue too.

What is your warranty experience with Paradigm? I assume after 2 years there will they will simple swap out the driver.


Don

Can anyone with personal knowledge tell me if the cherry finish on the sig v1 is the same as the cherry finish for the v2 and v3? If I want a perfect match in terms of color/looks, do you have to stay within the same series?

What about in terms of sound? I know the v1 has a G-Pal tweeter - would it be better to match v1 fronts with a v1 center since they would have the same G-Pal tweeter, or would it be ok or even better to match v1 fronts with a v2 or v3 center and its beryllium tweeter?

I had cherry v1 and v2 S2's in my house recently and the v2's seem to be a little bit darker/richer color. The v1's seem more real wood like. There is not a huge difference, but it is noticable when they are right next to each other. I also have a pair of cherry ADP3's and that finish is different than the v1 and v2 S2's. It looks more polished and plastic like.

I also recently needed to open up the ADP3's since they were slightly damaged during shipping and I found out that the tweeter is a bit different than the one in the S2's. It uses a much smaller heat sink. I doubt this effects the sound, but it may effect the power handling. I assume since there are two tweeters in teh ADP that the total power handling is still above that of the S2.

I had cherry v1 and v2 S2's in my house recently and the v2's seem to be a little bit darker/richer color. The v1's seem more real wood like. There is not a huge difference, but it is noticable when they are right next to each other. I also have a pair of cherry ADP3's and that finish is different than the v1 and v2 S2's. It looks more polished and plastic like.

I also recently needed to open up the ADP3's since they were slightly damaged during shipping and I found out that the tweeter is a bit different than the one in the S2's. It uses a much smaller heat sink. I doubt this effects the sound, but it may effect the power handling. I assume since there are two tweeters in teh ADP that the total power handling is still above that of the S2.

On a related note, does anyone know how much a new 3.5" midrange for an ADP3 would cost?

A few weeks ago I started hearing a faint distortion on my CC-590 v4. It was so faint that I wasn't sure if it was me, the sound track, or a problem with the speaker.

You really can only hear it at certain frequencies so it was not something I could just pop in a movie and check for, but last night I was watching "What about Brian" and over the cheesy music I heard it like never before. Blown driver - here is definitely some buzzing and distortion coming from the left base driver.

I am disappointed to find a problem after only two years of what I consider very conservative use but I guess these things happen. I fully expect my dealer and Paradigm to make things right.

I had a defective ADP-590 3 months after purchase that the dealer just replaced with anew one, so I'm pretty sure he will step up on this issue too.

What is your warranty experience with Paradigm? I assume after 2 years there will they will simple swap out the driver.


Don

I have had a few driver replacements from Paradigm, and it was a pretty straightforward replacement.... Just call your dealer, tell him you have a blown driver, give him the model & serial # of that speaker, he will order you a new one, and when it comes in, you just replace it. 6mm allen head to remove the screws and make sure you save the rubber AMS shock mount rubber cups to transfer. All I used was 6mm on a drill with a clutch setting of 2 and then retighten at almost 3 setting, or do it by hand, never had an issue.

Important - tell your dealer to open the package and bench test and inspect the driver before you have to go over there to pick it up to swap it out, I have had a number of bad drivers - damaged from shipping, and a bad part right off the shelf, so I had to wait for another driver to come. YOu should have seen one of the drivers I got, it looked like it was dropped off the sears tower - the cone was totally shattered :eek::confused:

Your speakers carry a 5 year warranty if purchased new so it shouldn't be a problem, otherwise you will just have to pay for the driver - no big deal.

Not sure how this would work given pbk is done inside the sub and and audessey is done within the receiver. Therefore audessey has no effect on the sub internal dsp when pbk is running so pbk won't know what audessey did. But when audessey runs with pbk done on the sub, it will hear a diff sub response. Does this make sense?
John

Of course, Audyssey will "see" the PBK corrected sub, it won't know it's corrected and work on what it sees.
The PBK won't be running through the pre-amp with Audyssey corrections engaged so it won't "see" what Audyssey has done..

Recently purchased this amazing pair of towers. I had monitor 11 mkII paired to an sc-05. All i can say is :eek:, huge difference. The only thing the 90p's didn't come with were the floor spikes. I tried doing a search and didn't find where to get them. Any info would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

I know it is off topic but want to get suggestions. I placed an order for Anthem Statement P5 for $4900 including taxes (out the door). Is this a good deal or I can find a cheaper deal?
Sorry for intereption.

So i popped off the grills on my Studio 10s to see what the oval ports looked like. i noticed that one was fully blocked off with foam at the rear of port and the other speaker was not and i could clearly see all the way to the back of the unit. seemed kind of strange to me and maybe it could affect the sound so i called Paradigm:

he told me to bring the speakers back to the place where i purchased them and have the the units taken apart and re-adjusted. the foam could have "dropped" during shipping because it isnt glued in place the rep said. i dont know about you but i dont want the guy i bought my Paradigms from or the "kids" he has working for him touching my speakers.

i have only owned the Studio 10s about 2 weeks and just started listening to them last week (i was waiting for my Cambridge Audio650A integrated)

any opinions or suggestions...?

So i popped off the grills on my Studio 10s to see what the oval ports looked like. i noticed that one was fully blocked off with foam at the rear of port and the other speaker was not and i could clearly see all the way to the back of the unit. seemed kind of strange to me and maybe it could affect the sound so i called Paradigm:

he told me to bring the speakers back to the place where i purchased them and have the the units taken apart and re-adjusted. the foam could have "dropped" during shipping because it isnt glued in place the rep said. i dont know about you but i dont want the guy i bought my Paradigms from or the "kids" he has working for him touching my speakers.

i have only owned the Studio 10s about 2 weeks and just started listening to them last week (i was waiting for my Cambridge Audio650A integrated)

any opinions or suggestions...?

its not exactly rocket science readjusting the foam inside. Those "kids" im sure are more than capable of pulling out the driver to readjust the foam inside. If they actually do screw something up (god help them..) then its on them and they will replace it with a new set.

do you think the foam affects the sound enough to need an adjustment in this case?

Why don't you just take the driver out and fix the dampening material, you can get a look inside and learn something about how they are made. Not sure why everyone is so afraid to take a speaker apart, like he said it's not rocket science here. It's a man made product, things are bound to happen from time to time, it's really not that big a deal.

And yes the material blocking the port will have a small effect on sq.

Heck I've already taken apart my sig s8's to see what they look like inside, just to satisfy my curiosity :)

Can anyone with personal knowledge tell me if the cherry finish on the sig v1 is the same as the cherry finish for the v2 and v3? If I want a perfect match in terms of color/looks, do you have to stay within the same series?

What about in terms of sound? I know the v1 has a G-Pal tweeter - would it be better to match v1 fronts with a v1 center since they would have the same G-Pal tweeter, or would it be ok or even better to match v1 fronts with a v2 or v3 center and its beryllium tweeter?

thanks for the responses guys. sounds like there is a difference in opinion as to what would be "better" in terms of sonics to match with v1 fronts, which i hope means that i cannot go wrong either way?

I know it is off topic but want to get suggestions. I placed an order for Anthem Statement P5 for $4900 including taxes (out the door). Is this a good deal or I can find a cheaper deal?
Sorry for intereption.

I bought the anthem a5 for 1900 and the anthem a2 for 1380. I know the p5 and p2 are better but i would try to find someone that will work on that price.

chester

I know it is off topic but want to get suggestions. I placed an order for Anthem Statement P5 for $4900 including taxes (out the door). Is this a good deal or I can find a cheaper deal?
Sorry for intereption.thats $100 better than any price i could get.

Thanks guys for your input. I appreciate it.
Based on osofast's comment, I feel, I am the winner. :D

i currently run adp-190's v5 as side surround duty (sits between both front and rear seats of the room) and some older titan v2's as rear (behind rear seat). I wanted to eliminate the v2's and purchase some additional 190's. however after calling the dealer the price for adp-190's v6 is 50% more than what i paid for my v5's. rest of the set up consists of mini-monitors and cc-290; both v5.

am i ok leaving the set up as is or should i switch places with the speakers? basically, adp to the rear and titans to side duty.

i also considered selling both the titans and the adp's and trying something different, just not sure what.

:confused: somebody help me out here?

thanks:D

I bought the anthem a5 for 1900 and the anthem a2 for 1380. I know the p5 and p2 are better but i would try to find someone that will work on that price.

chester

Thats pretty much cost on those units...im pretty sure most dealers won't do that lol

I bought the anthem a5 for 1900 and the anthem a2 for 1380. I know the p5 and p2 are better but i would try to find someone that will work on that price.

chester

The P5 retails for $7200. That is a killer deal on the P5. I think someone already did work on that price.

Thats pretty much cost on those units...im pretty sure most dealers won't do that lol

.... Yea those are unreal prices... Good for you if you got them... I would be mad at the dealer however if those prices came around here though... and i'm sure he would get in some major trouble.

Why don't you just take the driver out and fix the dampening material, you can get a look inside and learn something about how they are made. Not sure why everyone is so afraid to take a speaker apart, like he said it's not rocket science here. It's a man made product, things are bound to happen from time to time, it's really not that big a deal.

And yes the material blocking the port will have a small effect on sq.

Heck I've already taken apart my sig s8's to see what they look like inside, just to satisfy my curiosity :)


Yeah i can do it thats not the problem...but wont tampering with a speaker void any kind of warranty unless done by an authorized Paradigm "professional"?

Yeah i can do it thats not the problem...but wont tampering with a speaker void any kind of warranty unless done by an authorized Paradigm "professional"?

Yes ...

Edit: If that is, they can tell you opened them up. Which, given you've already contacted Paradigm about it, might be a dead giveaway if they save call information.

:confused: somebody help me out here?

thanks:D


I'm not a huge fan of ADP's in the rear, but I would think you could try it to see how it sounds...

There are lots of deals on stuff like that on ebay or audiogon, you can get some second hand for a really nice price usually... No need for them to be brand new, prices def have gone up on all the lines over time..

search ebay for "Paradigm speakers"

I'm not a huge fan of ADP's in the rear, but I would think you could try it to see how it sounds...

There are lots of deals on stuff like that on ebay or audiogon, you can get some second hand for a really nice price usually... No need for them to be brand new, prices def have gone up on all the lines over time..

search ebay for "Paradigm speakers"

Is this because you simply prefer the sound of Direct radiating speakers as rears or something with the ADP's in particular?

I think it comes down to a compromise in SQ to me...

I have ADP's in my 5.1 bedroom setup because I don't have the room for direct speakers, they do OK but to me they smear the sound around the room. If I had the room I would rather have direct. I tried the ADP's for rears in my big room, but they just didn't seem to provide enough focus or pinpoint accuracy with moving sound - left to right or right to left panning. Perhaps its just me, but I still like direct all the way around If it can be accomplished...

I think it comes down to a compromise in SQ to me...

I have ADP's in my 5.1 bedroom setup because I don't have the room for direct speakers, they do OK but to me they smear the sound around the room. If I had the room I would rather have direct. I tried the ADP's for rears in my big room, but they just didn't seem to provide enough focus or pinpoint accuracy with moving sound - left to right or right to left panning. Perhaps its just me, but I still like direct all the way around If it can be accomplished...i actually like a localized sound for the surrounds, mabey its just me

.... Yea those are unreal prices... Good for you if you got them... I would be mad at the dealer however if those prices came around here though... and i'm sure he would get in some major trouble.
Thank you all for your input. :D

I think it comes down to a compromise in SQ to me...

I have ADP's in my 5.1 bedroom setup because I don't have the room for direct speakers, they do OK but to me they smear the sound around the room. If I had the room I would rather have direct. I tried the ADP's for rears in my big room, but they just didn't seem to provide enough focus or pinpoint accuracy with moving sound - left to right or right to left panning. Perhaps its just me, but I still like direct all the way around If it can be accomplished...

Likely true, but so darn tough without the space as you say...

Here's an interesting read on dipoles. It's a bit outdated since 7.1 is kind of the norm but some of the principles still apply;
http://www.paradigm.com/en/pdf/dipolar_confusion.pdf

Personally I think the room and listener proximity are the important factors. I sit fairly close to my side surrounds so I think the ADP's diffusion is helpful overall and directional enough when called for. I'm a reasonable distance from the back surrounds so they're direct radiators.

I think it comes down to a compromise in SQ to me...

I have ADP's in my 5.1 bedroom setup because I don't have the room for direct speakers, they do OK but to me they smear the sound around the room. If I had the room I would rather have direct. I tried the ADP's for rears in my big room, but they just didn't seem to provide enough focus or pinpoint accuracy with moving sound - left to right or right to left panning. Perhaps its just me, but I still like direct all the way around If it can be accomplished...

i actually like a localized sound for the surrounds, mabey its just me

I also prefer the direct surrounds, especially in a 7.1 setup where you have surround backs and don't really need that reflection to fill in the space behind the listener.

The P5 retails for $7200. That is a killer deal on the P5. I think someone already did work on that price.

If you goto hometheaterreview.com the price is 4999 The person I bought my amps from were selling the P5 for 4399 marked down from 5200. Most places I shopped at the price was 5200 or 5400 not 7200. When I do my home work I drive to as many dealers as I can and ask them if they would take this price instead of a thier marked price.

Chester

Thats pretty much cost on those units...im pretty sure most dealers won't do that lol

Some days you get lucky with a dealer that just needs to move merchandise or they are trying to meet thier sales agreements with the MFG. What ever the reason is I'll take the savings any time I can get it. I bought my Integra DHC for 1400 because it was an open box, he was selling NIB for 1600. The original person that bought it did not know he needed amps to make it work. So he returned it, The bad part of the deal was that after hooking up the 9.9 the power cord was to loose to stay on so the dealer ordered me a new one. the new one came in 3 days later at no cost to me LOL.

Chester

I've decided to go with an in-wall center channel speaker behind an acoustically transparent screen. This will be an upgrade for me, and I'll be replacing my Paradigm center channel speaker in the process.

I have the budget to go with the SIG-LCR 5, and am thinking this is right for my set-up. Interested in opinions and experience...

My current set-up is:

Fronts- Studio 100's
Rear & back - Studio ADP-590's
Subwoofers: (1) SVS PB13 Ultra & (1) SVS PC13 Ultra

Thanks for any help available out there!

I've decided to go with an in-wall center channel speaker behind an acoustically transparent screen. This will be an upgrade for me, and I'll be replacing my Paradigm center channel speaker in the process.

I have the budget to go with the SIG-LCR 5, and am thinking this is right for my set-up. Interested in opinions and experience...

My current set-up is:

Fronts- Studio 100's
Rear & back - Studio ADP-590's
Subwoofers: (1) SVS PB13 Ultra & (1) SVS PC13 Ultra

Thanks for any help available out there!this will work, sig-lcr will be the superior speaker over the 100's. in the future you may want to do 3 sig-lcr' across

Does anyone know the internal crossover implementations for the Studio 60V3? I'm very interested in the separation between the mid/mid woofer and the woofer itself.

this will work, sig-lcr will be the superior speaker over the 100's. in the future you may want to do 3 sig-lcr' across

I'm opening up the wall to get the SIG-LCR 5 in (behind the screen). Don't know that I'll do that again, but looking at upgrading the 100's to Signature S8 or W5. Not sure which will match better.

Also thinking there is an advantage to being able to toe-in the fronts.

Does anyone know the internal crossover implementations for the Studio 60V3? I'm very interested in the separation between the mid/mid woofer and the woofer itself.

From Kal's review of said speaker found here
http://www.stereophile.com/floorloudspeakers/1204paradigm/index2.html

Description: 2½-way reflex-loaded, floorstanding loudspeaker with front and rear ports. Drive-units: 1" aluminum-dome tweeter, 7" mica-polymer-cone midrange/bass unit, 7" polypropylene-cone woofer. Crossover frequencies: 500Hz (7" polypropylene cone only), 2kHz. Crossover slopes: 12dB/octave electro-acoustic network. Frequency responses: 46Hz-22kHz, ±2dB (on axis); 46Hz-20kHz, ±2dB (30 degrees off axis). Low-frequency extension (DIN 45 500): 30Hz. Noninal impedance: 8 ohms. Sensitivity: 91dB/W/m (room), 88dB/W/m (anechoic). Recommended amplification: 15-200W. Maximum input power: 150W, normal program content.

Didn't Kal say he was going to review the new Studio v5 range (the 100's ?) ? I haven't seen anything, yet.

Also, very few reviews on the Sub12 and Sub15 subwoofers. I have been sub-less for some time but am thinking of going for the Sub15.

Regards,

Didn't Kal say he was going to review the new Studio v5 range (the 100's ?) ? I haven't seen anything, yet.

Also, very few reviews on the Sub12 and Sub15 subwoofers. I have been sub-less for some time but am thinking of going for the Sub15.

Regards,

http://stereophile.com/floorloudspeakers/paradigm_reference_studio_60_v5_loudspeaker/

Sub15 in January column.

Sorry man, I didn't realize a review was up already. Very nice review Kal. Thanks !

Regards,

If you goto hometheaterreview.com the price is 4999 The person I bought my amps from were selling the P5 for 4399 marked down from 5200. Most places I shopped at the price was 5200 or 5400 not 7200. When I do my home work I drive to as many dealers as I can and ask them if they would take this price instead of a thier marked price.

Chester
The $4999 price was msrp a few years ago. I think hometheater review is getting the information from other sites that is too old. No dealer now shows this price. At least I couldn't find any dealer with that price. Now the price everywhere is $7200 and with anthem you cannot order out of state or online. If you do, it will not have warranty. You don't want to pay thousand of dollars without warranty and quality assurance.

Nice review Kal.

The $4999 price was msrp a few years ago. I think hometheater review is getting the information from other sites that is too old. No dealer now shows this price. At least I couldn't find any dealer with that price. Now the price everywhere is $7200 and with anthem you cannot order out of state or online. If you do, it will not have warranty. You don't want to pay thousand of dollars without warranty and quality assurance.

I bought my amps from PA I live in NJ, I have a real warranty. I also checked with the shop I bought my amps from today on the phone his price did go up. he quoted me on the phone 5699 and said if I was really interested to come in and he would work on that price.

Chester

I'm wondering if there is any adverse affect from mounting the SIG-LCR 5 in wall speaker upside down (in the vertical configuration). May be putting three behind an AT screen and this would help lower the tweeter closer to ear level...

Thanks!

I'm wondering if there is any adverse affect from mounting the SIG-LCR 5 in wall speaker upside down (in the vertical configuration). May be putting three behind an AT screen and this would help lower the tweeter closer to ear level...

Thanks!you can if you want.

Quick question, i am looking for a stand to hold my cc390. Any suggestion? I have looked into bdi and salamander, but i'm open to suggestions.

Hi Folks- Hope this is the right spot for this question. I recently purchased the above 2 items with the hope of calibrating the Ultra Cube.

My computer has Windows XP. I read the Perfect Base kit instructions closely, installed the software and received the message that the USB ports were operational. Once I installed the cables, there was even a bit of noise generated by the microphone with the sub on. The problem is that when I hit the button for my first measurement, the sub turned off...followed by an error message stating that the sub could not be located (obviously communication was happening). Unfortunately, there is no longer an 'always on' option for the cube, which is now 'auto on'. What am I missing? :confused: Is there a fix for this? I'd love to hear from anyone who succesfully calibrated the Ultra Cube. I doubt that this is a USB problem.

Thanks!:)
Jim Eash

Hi Folks- Hope this is the right spot for this question. I recently purchased the above 2 items with the hope of calibrating the Ultra Cube.

My computer has Windows XP. I read the Perfect Base kit instructions closely, installed the software and received the message that the USB ports were operational. Once I installed the cables, there was even a bit of noise generated by the microphone with the sub on. The problem is that when I hit the button for my first measurement, the sub turned off...followed by an error message stating that the sub could not be located (obviously communication was happening). Unfortunately, there is no longer an 'always on' option for the cube, which is now 'auto on'. What am I missing? :confused: Is there a fix for this? I'd love to hear from anyone who succesfully calibrated the Ultra Cube. I doubt that this is a USB problem.

Thanks!:)
Jim Eashmake sure the USB cord is all the way in the sub.

I'm getting a cc690 which has to sit above my TV. I need to angle it down pretty substantially as a result, and I wondered what recommendtions you have to do that in a secure and aesthetically pleasing way. The space it sits on is secure and pretty deep. I think someone said they used the feet that come with it backwards, but I'm not sure that's going to cut it.

Ideas? Thanks!

Hi all, My local dealer wants to sell me their 3mo old demos: Paradigm studio 100, cc50, sub 12, all version 5, for $4600. Is this a good deal?

Wow, these S2's are MUCH larger than I originally thought. Here they are (just got them about an hour ago from my parents who drove up from Florida) next to my Mirage OM9s.

I listened to Norah Jones "Come Away With Me" for about 10 minutes. Completely meaningless comparison right now, given these speakers have spent the last 48 hours in the bottom of a minivan in extremely cold temps and are not in an ideal location right now (only 4 feet apart). However, I can tell the soundstage thrown by the OM9 floor standers is much larger (likely due to their Omnipolar sound) and they have more bass. The S2's seem to have a bit more detail in the top end. But that's all I can glean right now.

As my current "break in" DVD is "I Gotta Go! - Breakthrough Music Video that makes Potty Training Fun, Easy and Successful". Well, that's not really my break in DVD, but it's what my 2.5 year old wanted to watch/listen to! :(

Ooops .... here's the pic ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=160770&stc=1&d=1260752779

Took it on my BB 9700, sorry about the quality!

Hi Folks- Hope this is the right spot for this question. I recently purchased the above 2 items with the hope of calibrating the Ultra Cube.

My computer has Windows XP. I read the Perfect Base kit instructions closely, installed the software and received the message that the USB ports were operational. Once I installed the cables, there was even a bit of noise generated by the microphone with the sub on. The problem is that when I hit the button for my first measurement, the sub turned off...followed by an error message stating that the sub could not be located (obviously communication was happening). Unfortunately, there is no longer an 'always on' option for the cube, which is now 'auto on'. What am I missing? :confused: Is there a fix for this? I'd love to hear from anyone who succesfully calibrated the Ultra Cube. I doubt that this is a USB problem.

Thanks!:)
Jim Eash
Is a USB cable provided with it, and how long of one? I'm planning on ordering this kit, but don't have a laptop, only my workstation to install the software on.

I'm getting a cc690 which has to sit above my TV. I need to angle it down pretty substantially as a result, and I wondered what recommendtions you have to do that in a secure and aesthetically pleasing way. The space it sits on is secure and pretty deep. I think someone said they used the feet that come with it backwards, but I'm not sure that's going to cut it.

Ideas? Thanks!

I use these for my CC-290, but I use it to angle up. These things come with wedges, so you can angle up or down. If you want to angle up, you install them with the "lip" in back of the speaker. For angle down, the "lip" will need to be in the front. I use four Mopads for my CC-290. They are pretty dense and can hold a lot of weight.

Auralex Mopads (http://www.amazon.com/Auralex-MOPAD-Monitor-Isolation-Charcoal/dp/B0002D0B4K)

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41pFt-ERrJL._SL500_AA280_.jpg

Wow, these S2's are MUCH larger than I originally thought. Here they are (just got them about an hour ago from my parents who drove up from Florida) next to my Mirage OM9s.

I listened to Norah Jones "Come Away With Me" for about 10 minutes. Completely meaningless comparison right now, given these speakers have spent the last 48 hours in the bottom of a minivan in extremely cold temps and are not in an ideal location right now (only 4 feet apart). However, I can tell the soundstage thrown by the OM9 floor standers is much larger (likely due to their Omnipolar sound) and they have more bass. The S2's seem to have a bit more detail in the top end. But that's all I can glean right now.

As my current "break in" DVD is "I Gotta Go! - Breakthrough Music Video that makes Potty Training Fun, Easy and Successful". Well, that's not really my break in DVD, but it's what my 2.5 year old wanted to watch/listen to! :(

Well you're right you can't judge or compare them where they sit. One thing inherent about bookshelves is their imaging strength when placed properly. Bass will also improve with placement but will have to be supported by a sub to match your full range speakers. They'll still sound different than your OM9's but I think you'll be impressed.

I have definitely decided on purchasing two Studio 60s v.5 for stereo set up. Can anyone suggest a good receiver that would work well with a record player, and these speakers. I like the Pioneer Elite line because it has an iPod input on the front. The ideal receiver would have a phono input in addition to an iPod input, or at very least the ability to add an iPod dock.

I am trying to stay under $1000 for this receiver. Thank you for your suggestions.

Well you're right you can't judge or compare them where they sit. One thing inherent about bookshelves is their imaging strength when placed properly. Bass will also improve with placement but will have to be supported by a sub to match your full range speakers. They'll still sound different than your OM9's but I think you'll be impressed.

I'm sitting about 12 to 14 feet from the speakers. I think the max I can set them apart is about 7 feet which isn't ideal, but better than where they are now, that's for sure!

Surprised at the size of the C3 speaker. I thought my old OMC2 was a large CC. The C3 is slightly taller and at least a few pounds heavier, that's for sure! Man, the C5 must be an absolute monster in comparison. I just hope the C3 is as good as the OMC2 was in reproducing the accuracy of voices, even way off axis.

In any event, the main thing was to get bookshelves to add some visual space to the room and move the sub up front. With the PB13 even located at the listening position (nearfield) the S2's did sound quite nice.

Can't wait to break these puppies in. Unfortunately "work" seems to get in the way of fun right now!

I have definitely decided on purchasing two Studio 60s v.5 for stereo set up. Can anyone suggest a good receiver that would work well with a record player, and these speakers. I like the Pioneer Elite line because it has an iPod input on the front. The ideal receiver would have a phono input in addition to an iPod input, or at very least the ability to add an iPod dock.

I am trying to stay under $1000 for this receiver. Thank you for your suggestions.

If you have ample space to let the receiver breathe (at least 6 or 7 inches above and 2" off to each side, etc) a good bargain out there right now is the Onkyo 876 receiver. TONS of power, all the newest codecs (except for Dolby PIIz or whatever it is called which I see very few people using a 9.1 setup), Audyssey, Reon scaling which is considered the top scaler in AVRs right now, etc. etc. I think if you can still find one they are going for about 50 to 60% of their original retail.

This is what I picked up a month or two ago.

The Elite's are supposedly very nice AVR's as well though.

make sure the USB cord is all the way in the sub.
Osofast - Checked this. No dice though.
Thanks!
Jim

Is a USB cable provided with it, and how long of one? I'm planning on ordering this kit, but don't have a laptop, only my workstation to install the software on.

Yes, 2 USB cables are provided 1 from the mic to the computer and one for the sub. Both are around 10 ft. Any other thoughts regarding my query?:)
Jim

Surprised at the size of the C3 speaker. I thought my old OMC2 was a large CC. The C3 is slightly taller and at least a few pounds heavier, that's for sure! Man, the C5 must be an absolute monster in comparison. I just hope the C3 is as good as the OMC2 was in reproducing the accuracy of voices, even way off axis.


Mine looks tiny now that it's flanked by S8's. :p

Make sure you move it forward so you're not getting early reflections off the cabinet when you set things up.

Make sure you move it forward so you're not getting early reflections off the cabinet when you set things up.

Good call...

pbc,

It looks like it could use a little more space behind it to breath as well.;)

can someone please review my first post.
(Paradigm Atom v6 Crossover Setting? And ?'s)
Looking for some help... I hope I put this in the correct forum. Any help is greatly appreciated.

can someone please review my first post.
(Paradigm Atom v6 Crossover Setting? And ?'s)
Looking for some help... I hope I put this in the correct forum. Any help is greatly appreciated.what options do you have on your avr? how loud are you going to play these pupies?

Not super loud due to my neighbor except when she is not home. geez if it goes up to 80 on the receiver then maybe at max 50. I dont blast them!

Not super loud due to my neighbor except when she is not home. geez if it goes up to 80 on the receiver then maybe at max 50. I dont blast them!what receiver do you have?

I think I should have placed this here... Sorry just getting used to the site. Mike

Paradigm Atom v6 Crossover Setting? And ?'s

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have just bought a new system. Paradigm Atom v6, matching center channel, Used ADP 170 for surrounds and a new Ultracube 12.

My questions?

1. Where should I set the crossover points for the front speakers? The specs say they go to 90hz. I feel like I can pinpoint the subs location at 90 and not so much at 80. Is it okay or can I hurt the speakers with the lower setting. Currently I have everything set at 80 including the sub. Crossover is handled by my receiver with the sub crossover at the max. Is 80 where I want to be?

2. I have the Ultracube 12 on carpet. Should I raise the legs on it? Do I have to worry anout the bottom woofer extending to the carpet (touching it)? I can screw the leg things down and raise it up a bit.

I have an new Onkyo 607 receiver and a new LG 390 player. Monster xp speaker with and a audio quest sub x sub cable.

Any fine tuning advise? I main listening area is about 10 feet away and the front speakers are spaced about 7.5 feet. Sound correct? It's a fairly large open room and the subs only at about the 11oclock position. I live in a townhouse and have neighbors.

I ran Audesey and it configured the speaker distance almost right on minus the sub. However it did play with the speaker calibration and lowered everything. I reset the fronts and center to 0 and the backs plus 2.

I really want to get the most out of what I have. Any advise would be great. This is my first post so hopefully I placed this in the correct spot on the site. Thanks for any input. I have been reading info on this site for a very long time... awesome. Michael from NJ

anyone else have "ripples" in the rubber surrounding their woofers? I have never seen this before and its really bothering me. I would think the rubber as with most of the other speaker components would be uniform and identical. dont you?

I think I should have placed this here... Sorry just getting used to the site. Mike

Paradigm Atom v6 Crossover Setting? And ?'s

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have just bought a new system. Paradigm Atom v6, matching center channel, Used ADP 170 for surrounds and a new Ultracube 12.

My questions?

1. Where should I set the crossover points for the front speakers? The specs say they go to 90hz. I feel like I can pinpoint the subs location at 90 and not so much at 80. Is it okay or can I hurt the speakers with the lower setting. Currently I have everything set at 80 including the sub. Crossover is handled by my receiver with the sub crossover at the max. Is 80 where I want to be?

2. I have the Ultracube 12 on carpet. Should I raise the legs on it? Do I have to worry anout the bottom woofer extending to the carpet (touching it)? I can screw the leg things down and raise it up a bit.

I have an new Onkyo 607 receiver and a new LG 390 player. Monster xp speaker with and a audio quest sub x sub cable.

Any fine tuning advise? I main listening area is about 10 feet away and the front speakers are spaced about 7.5 feet. Sound correct? It's a fairly large open room and the subs only at about the 11oclock position. I live in a townhouse and have neighbors.

I ran Audesey and it configured the speaker distance almost right on minus the sub. However it did play with the speaker calibration and lowered everything. I reset the fronts and center to 0 and the backs plus 2.

I really want to get the most out of what I have. Any advise would be great. This is my first post so hopefully I placed this in the correct spot on the site. Thanks for any input. I have been reading info on this site for a very long time... awesome. Michael from NJ


Why would you change the Audssey level settings? It's going to be more accurate than an SPL meter. I wouldn't change what it does, usually getting the distance right is a good sign that the measurements were done correctly.

It should also set the crossovers, shouldn't it? I don't know which version is in the 607, but if it does set the crossovers I'd leave them where it sets them. If not, and your speakers have a LF extension to 90hz you should probably set the xovers around 100hz.
If your speakers only go that low, you'll benefit more from having the sub handle the rest than the small negative that might occur with sub localization.
If you're really worried about that you can place the sub as close to center of your mains as you can.

thank you... Calibration wise it was negative on volume on all speakers to some degree. This made me have to crank up the volume to get enough sound out of the speakers. Distance I left alone and only corrected the sub which was way off. What is the point of it setting at a minus vs 0 and minus on the backs/ sub. Why would it want to lower the sound going minus.

Should I have the volume at a certain level while calibrating?

it did sound better then when I first calibrated it but my tweaks made it sound better in my thoughts. If I set the speakers to 100 I set the sub to 100 as wel, correct? Mike

I bought my amps from PA I live in NJ, I have a real warranty. I also checked with the shop I bought my amps from today on the phone his price did go up. he quoted me on the phone 5699 and said if I was really interested to come in and he would work on that price.

Chester
There is no way you can get full warranty and full service from Anthem from out of state unless you don't tell Anthem you bought your item from out of state. Your dealer is cheating by giving you full warranty. Sometimes the dealers ask the customers not to contact Anthem directly. Even if your dealer is going to make a deal on your amp, I am sure it will be above $5000 including not contacting Anthem directly. And that is a pain.

There is no way you can get full warranty and full service from Anthem from out of state unless you don't tell Anthem you bought your item from out of state. Your dealer is cheating by giving you full warranty. Sometimes the dealers ask the customers not to contact Anthem directly. Even if your dealer is going to make a deal on your amp, I am sure it will be above $5000 including not contacting Anthem directly. And that is a pain.

What are you saying? I know what I have and don't have. I talked to a Anthem cust. service person SO I KNOW I'M NOT WRONG. Where was your two cents when I was asking for help to post my speakers for sale on this site.

chester

I guess you have not noticed audiophileliquidaters.net

chester

thank you... Calibration wise it was negative on volume on all speakers to some degree. This made me have to crank up the volume to get enough sound out of the speakers. Distance I left alone and only corrected the sub which was way off. What is the point of it setting at a minus vs 0 and minus on the backs/ sub. Why would it want to lower the sound going minus.

Should I have the volume at a certain level while calibrating?

it did sound better then when I first calibrated it but my tweaks made it sound better in my thoughts. If I set the speakers to 100 I set the sub to 100 as wel, correct? Mike

You don't have to change the receivers volume, Audyssey automatically does that.
Before running Audyssey, you should always start with your subs' volume below half, and its' crossover either disabled, or as high as you can get it.

The levels are set so all channels are equal at a reference volume to the listening position, your center could be putting out 85db at 0 and your right rear might be putting out 87db at 0 so for them to be equal the rear would be set to -2db. That's a critical part of balancing the system and shouldn't be messed with. Also it takes a bit of getting used to propely EQ'd sound, it won't seem as loud becasue the bass won't be "bloated".

Go to the Audyssey thread in the Receivers section and read giomania's excellent "Audyssey Set Up Guide" linked on the first page, it will give you some excellent tips on how to get the best results and I think you'll be happy with those results.

Good call...

pbc,

It looks like it could use a little more space behind it to breath as well.;)

I literally just plopped them on the unit to make sure they actually worked until I can wall mount the S2's and eventually move the CC out a bit (and tilt upwards).

I literally just plopped them on the unit to make sure they actually worked until I can wall mount the S2's and eventually move the CC out a bit (and tilt upwards).

Wall mounting a 30 pound bookshelf speaker.:eek: I can't imagine wall mounting my S2's. I'd be constantly worried about walking in and finding them crashed down on the floor. I wish you luck.:)

Sorry to jump in guys...just a quick pricing question on Paradigms. Finally decided I'm going with mini shelf fronts, CC-290 for center, ADP-190 for side surrounds, and CS-160s for rear surrounds. How do I know what a killer deal is "with warranty" from any local dealer? Everyone wants to quote retail and says they'll "work a deal" when I'm ready to buy. Any advice on pricing I should be looking for?

I use these for my CC-290, but I use it to angle up. These things come with wedges, so you can angle up or down. If you want to angle up, you install them with the "lip" in back of the speaker. For angle down, the "lip" will need to be in the front. I use four Mopads for my CC-290. They are pretty dense and can hold a lot of weight.
Thanks for the info on this. I've emailed them and asked if there's a way to get more angle, as I don't think this will be enough. Thanks!

I assume you guys would recommend going with spades over bananas, is that correct? Does anyone have a spec on the width of the spade posts? I found on my v.1 Studio 20s that I had some difficulty getting a great fit with spades. I have some (gasp) Z2 Reference Monster Cable speaker cables that I got at 70% off and I'm pretty happy with them, and they have a kind of interesting system (http://www.monstercable.com/productdisplay.asp?pin=601) that provides a tight connection to the cable and allows you to change your end termination. The spades are available in 3 sizes. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

has anyone come across Paradigm speakers having the rubber woofer surround "rippled" not uniform and smooth? you can see it when looking at an angle and when i run my finger across the rubber it is very noticable. i have studio 10s that are brand new and would love some input from the Paradigm owners thread council:)

I have never ever seen this before and wasnt sure if it was a paradigm thing or not...for the price i paid i would like top notch craftsmanship. Am i being petty? will it affect the sound quality? will it lead to break down of woofer later on? thanks and look forward to your experiences or suggestions...humor me, I am very new here.:o

From Kal's review of said speaker found here
http://www.stereophile.com/floorloudspeakers/1204paradigm/index2.html


Thank-you.

has anyone come across Paradigm speakers having the rubber woofer surround "rippled" not uniform and smooth? you can see it when looking at an angle and when i run my finger across the rubber it is very noticable. i have studio 10s that are brand new and would love some input from the Paradigm owners thread council:)

I have never ever seen this before and wasnt sure if it was a paradigm thing or not...for the price i paid i would like top notch craftsmanship. Am i being petty? will it affect the sound quality? will it lead to break down of woofer later on? thanks and look forward to your experiences or suggestions...humor me, I am very new here.:o

Between your foam issues and now this ripple issue (a pic would help us see what you're referring to), it sounds like maybe you simply got a bad production run set of 10's.

I'd contact the dealer and get them to fix both issues or have Paradigm replace the speaker if they're not repairable.

I've never seen visible "ripples" on a surround, outside of say the new Sig series v3's and Mirage lineup which came with the surrounds "rippled" on purpose!

Guys,
I know this subject has been beaten to death, but I bi-amped my Studio 20s v.5, last night with Blue jean 10 gauge cables and the clarity, imaging and bass response defiantly improved! The Bass got tighter, and the sound stage became deeper and wider.:D

has anyone come across Paradigm speakers having the rubber woofer surround "rippled" not uniform and smooth? you can see it when looking at an angle and when i run my finger across the rubber it is very noticable. i have studio 10s that are brand new and would love some input from the Paradigm owners thread council:)

I have never ever seen this before and wasnt sure if it was a paradigm thing or not...for the price i paid i would like top notch craftsmanship. Am i being petty? will it affect the sound quality? will it lead to break down of woofer later on? thanks and look forward to your experiences or suggestions...humor me, I am very new here.:o

Yea, a picture would help. I bought new studio 10s a couple of months ago. I've never pulled the front covers off but once and put them right back on. I will look closer. They sound fantastic.

thank you... Calibration wise it was negative on volume on all speakers to some degree. This made me have to crank up the volume to get enough sound out of the speakers. Distance I left alone and only corrected the sub which was way off. What is the point of it setting at a minus vs 0 and minus on the backs/ sub. Why would it want to lower the sound going minus.

Should I have the volume at a certain level while calibrating?

it did sound better then when I first calibrated it but my tweaks made it sound better in my thoughts. If I set the speakers to 100 I set the sub to 100 as wel, correct? Mike

g-nj,

Go to the Integra dhc 9.9 post and ask for help. There is a few guy's on that post that will help you with your set-up issue. They are really good guys. By the way I live in Piscataway NJ.

chester

thank you chester - what store are you dealing with in PA? the one in farihills, pa?

thank you chester - what store are you dealing with in PA? the one in farihills, pa?

Ed tvs and hifi I think its called. I am a crazy when it comes to negotiating. I just don't give up... When I go new car shopping my wife leaves the show room because she thinks I go to far. I bought my Integra from a place in Toms river. And my Paradigm Esprit and my sa35 in wall speakers from the sound exchange in somerville nj.

chester

Hello. i need advise. I have Monitor series V.5 surround set up. CC-290 Center, Monitor 7 Towers, and Atom surrounds powered by Onkyo 705 receiver. was looking to add an amp to the equation but am not sure which way to go.

My options are a 200 watt 5 channel amp and bi-wire the towers, Or a 125 watt 7 channel amp and Bi-amp the towers. If i go with the 7 channel i can benefit in Bi-amping but i will lose 75 watts per channel. which would give me the best overall sound/performance? I know that 200 watts might be over kill because the monitor series are very efficient speakers, but if i go with the lesser watts, i may always wonder how 200 watts would sound. any help would be greatly appreciated.

btw the amps considered are Emotiva.

I asked before but no one gave a response: Any opinions on a potential upgrade from a CC-370 center to the current CC-390? I have Monitor 9s with the ADP-390 surrounds. Thanks in advance.

I asked before but no one gave a response: Any opinions on a potential upgrade from a CC-370 center to the current CC-390? I have Monitor 9s with the ADP-390 surrounds. Thanks in advance.thats a good improvement its worth the upgrade.

has anyone come across Paradigm speakers having the rubber woofer surround "rippled" not uniform and smooth? you can see it when looking at an angle and when i run my finger across the rubber it is very noticable. i have studio 10s that are brand new and would love some input from the Paradigm owners thread council:)

I have never ever seen this before and wasnt sure if it was a paradigm thing or not...for the price i paid i would like top notch craftsmanship. Am i being petty? will it affect the sound quality? will it lead to break down of woofer later on? thanks and look forward to your experiences or suggestions...humor me, I am very new here.:o

This is is new this year, it is how they were designed. It increases surface area of the speaker, increases excursion, allows them to play lower, allows them to play 5db louder than their predecessors. It is an awesome feature! This feature was inherited from Paradigms in-wall subwoofers. It allowed them to have awesome low end extension and still fit into a 3 1/2" deep stud bay.

This is is new this year, it is how they were designed. It increases surface area of the speaker, increases excursion, allows them to play lower, allows them to play 5db louder than their predecessors. It is an awesome feature! This feature was inherited from Paradigms in-wall subwoofers. It allowed them to have awesome low end extension and still fit into a 3 1/2" deep stud bay.

Dude...what the heck are you talking about? this isnt an intentional "ripple", this is a defect. and no where on the paradigm website does it mention any Studio 10s with ripples for added performance. feel free to explain your mysterious claims:confused:

Dude...what the heck are you talking about? this isnt an intentional "ripple", this is a defect. and no where on the paradigm website does it mention any Studio 10s with ripples for added performance. feel free to explain your mysterious claims:confused:

lol i think he is thinking about the signature v3 line...who knows though.

Hello. i need advise. I have Monitor series V.5 surround set up. CC-290 Center, Monitor 7 Towers, and Atom surrounds powered by Onkyo 705 receiver. was looking to add an amp to the equation but am not sure which way to go.

My options are a 200 watt 5 channel amp and bi-wire the towers, Or a 125 watt 7 channel amp and Bi-amp the towers. If i go with the 7 channel i can benefit in Bi-amping but i will lose 75 watts per channel. which would give me the best overall sound/performance? I know that 200 watts might be over kill because the monitor series are very efficient speakers, but if i go with the lesser watts, i may always wonder how 200 watts would sound. any help would be greatly appreciated.

btw the amps considered are Emotiva.

I can tell you that bi-wiring will give you ZERO benefit (I used to biwire my speakers). I can tell you that from what I've read and what I've experienced, biamping in this manner won't give you much more than that (I biamp my fronts and noticed no difference whatsoever).

Get the 200 watt 5 channel amp and use your 705 to power the rear speakers.

That's my suggestion and it will give you the most "benefit" out of your options noted above.

Here is a huge thread on biamping speakers. Give the first few pages a read.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=794070&highlight=biamp

Dude...what the heck are you talking about? this isnt an intentional "ripple", this is a defect. and no where on the paradigm website does it mention any Studio 10s with ripples for added performance. feel free to explain your mysterious claims:confused:

Yes, he's referring to the new v3 Signature series woofers ... note the ripples ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=161042&stc=1&d=1260968218

Dude...what the heck are you talking about? this isnt an intentional "ripple", this is a defect. and no where on the paradigm website does it mention any Studio 10s with ripples for added performance. feel free to explain your mysterious claims:confused:

If you posted a pic, people wouldn't think you are wacko and confusing your problem with the changes made in the series 3 drivers.

I pulled the covers of my studio 10s last night. No problem. All seemed as it should be, no ripples or unwanted deformation that I could tell. Put the covers back on.

A pic of what you are talking about would sure help....

My Paradigm Monitor 9 v.5's are almost 3 years old and the tweeter on one just quit working. Guess I'll have to search for my receipt and take it to a service center. It quit working after we moved. I assume a wire to the tweeter came loose but I couldn't find anything. The service center is telling me that the labor to repair is not covered but the parts are.

BTW, I was asked a while back to give my impressions of the Studio 10s after some run in.

Fantastic, worth every penny is all I can say. I spent what was budgeted for a 5.1 system and instead went 2.0 channel and the paradigms. Really nice for movies, but I listen to alot of music and as good as they are for movies, they are an even better music speaker. No regrets whatsoever.

I can tell you that bi-wiring will give you ZERO benefit (I used to biwire my speakers). I can tell you that from what I've read and what I've experienced, biamping in this manner won't give you much more than that (I biamp my fronts and noticed no difference whatsoever).

Get the 200 watt 5 channel amp and use your 705 to power the rear speakers.

That's my suggestion and it will give you the most "benefit" out of your options noted above.

Here is a huge thread on biamping speakers. Give the first few pages a read.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ighlight=biamp

pbc, thanks for the info/idea. didn't think of that. excellent!

Hello. i need advise. I have Monitor series V.5 surround set up. CC-290 Center, Monitor 7 Towers, and Atom surrounds powered by Onkyo 705 receiver. was looking to add an amp to the equation but am not sure which way to go.

My options are a 200 watt 5 channel amp and bi-wire the towers, Or a 125 watt 7 channel amp and Bi-amp the towers. If i go with the 7 channel i can benefit in Bi-amping but i will lose 75 watts per channel. which would give me the best overall sound/performance? I know that 200 watts might be over kill because the monitor series are very efficient speakers, but if i go with the lesser watts, i may always wonder how 200 watts would sound. any help would be greatly appreciated.

btw the amps considered are Emotiva.

I'm of the opinion that adding an outboard amp isn't the panacea a lot of people think it is. I don't believe there's much significance to going from 125w to 200w for instance, depending on the room and speakers. I'm not saying using an outboard amp won't be an improvement, just that it won't always be an improvement. If you do try an outboard amp, make sure you can return it, and try to be objective when you listen to it.

If you posted a pic, people wouldn't think you are wacko and confusing your problem with the changes made in the series 3 drivers.

the ripples are subtle and not even sure if they would show up in a pic. but they are noticable when i run my finger across the rubber surround...nice and smooth until about 6-8 o'clock on BOTH speakers

Isnt being "wacko" subjective....:rolleyes:

I'm of the opinion that adding an outboard amp isn't the panacea a lot of people think it is...and try to be objective when you listen to it.

Heresy!!! Heresy!! Heresy! :D

Heresy!!! Heresy!! Heresy! :D

Hang me up! Burn me on the stake! I'm the audio devil.. LOL! :D

Something I'm not 100% sure of, but that could also be a significant determining factor in an outboard amp adding sonic improvement is the quality of the receivers' analog output stage. This could be in play if there is a different path to the pre-outs vs the receivers' direct path to the internal amps..

Hi Folks- Hope this is the right spot for this question. I recently purchased the above 2 items with the hope of calibrating the Ultra Cube.

My computer has Windows XP. I read the Perfect Base kit instructions closely, installed the software and received the message that the USB ports were operational. Once I installed the cables, there was even a bit of noise generated by the microphone with the sub on. The problem is that when I hit the button for my first measurement, the sub turned off...followed by an error message stating that the sub could not be located (obviously communication was happening). Unfortunately, there is no longer an 'always on' option for the cube, which is now 'auto on'. What am I missing? :confused: Is there a fix for this? I'd love to hear from anyone who succesfully calibrated the Ultra Cube. I doubt that this is a USB problem.

Thanks!:)
Jim Eash

For anyone else experiencing this problem, it turns out the issue was the software. The 1.02 disk that comes with the kit is really meant for high-end Paradigm subs. The 1.04V on the website upgrades use to Windows 7 and also includes the UltraCube. PBK-1 is a great tool.:)
Jim

Yes, he's referring to the new v3 Signature series woofers ... note the ripples ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=161042&stc=1&d=1260968218

you are correct, I just glanced at the post and thought he was referring to the signatures. I work for a Paradigm dealer and we have had multiple customers ask "whats up with the ripples". If you have ripples on a studio it is a defect. However, the new studios did get redesigned surrounds this year also. They are wider and taller than last years which also allows for greater excursion...but no ripples.

For anyone else experiencing this problem, it turns out the issue was the software. The 1.02 disk that comes with the kit is really meant for high-end Paradigm subs. The 1.04V on the website upgrades use to Windows 7 and also includes the UltraCube. PBK-1 is a great tool.:)
Jim

I just got my PBK-1 kit and the software is 1.2.0. I went onto the website to see if perhaps there might be a newer version but like you mention it is only at 1.04 on-line. It's odd that the on-line version is so far behind.

you are correct, I just glanced at the post and thought he was referring to the signatures. I work for a Paradigm dealer and we have had multiple customers ask "whats up with the ripples". If you have ripples on a studio it is a defect. However, the new studios did get redesigned surrounds this year also. They are wider and taller than last years which also allows for greater excursion...but no ripples.Are the ripples on the W5 v.3 also?

Has anyone found a TV Stand that will hold the Center Channel Infinity Primus PC350?

Has anyone found a TV Stand that will hold the Center Channel Infinity Primus PC350?

:confused:

Has anyone compared the Studio 10 to an ERA D4 or D5?

:confused:


:)

:confused:
LOL! Wrong thread :p

I have a friend (seriously) who's looking to get a 5.1 setup for a small room (9x13). Their budget is ~$1500 for the speakers, and they want to have towers for the fronts. They have really enjoyed my Paradigm's (Studio 60s, and CC590) when they come and visit and would like to go with something in the Paradigm brand.

I was thinking of recommending the following:
Monitor 7's for the fronts
CC190 for the center
ADP190's for the rears
SVS PB10 subwoofer

I figure the Monitor 7s might be a touch too big, but they have made it clear they do not want smaller fronts on stands (kids and aesthetics).

I'm also wondering if the CC190 is too small for the Monitor 7's and I should recommend CC290 instead.

They would rather have the dipole surrounds as there's not enough room to put direct firing rears in.

So what do you think am I close price wise(I can't seem to find prices, even MSRP), is this likely to be a flawed setup. They're 60% Movies, 30% Video Games, 10% music.

Other recommendations are welcome if it can fit in the ~$1500 range (new please, they're not into used).

Thanks in advance!

I did a side by side of the 7's and 11's in my house for nearly a week and the 11's are a much better speaker...much wider sound stage, deeper and much better mid-range.
I also have the 190 and replaced it with the 290...major improvement on dialogue.
Were it me I would buy a pair of 11's, cc290 and the sub...get the surrounds when they have the dough.

I also have the Monitor 3's and they went deeper than the 7's and the 7's were just a bit better than the 3's...that is why I went with the 11's...the 7's weren't much better than my 3's.

I have a living room that's only about 10x15, and we have Monitor 9s in there. They don't really seem much bigger than the 7s, and sounded much better when I demoed them. Just my two cents.

I have a living room that's only about 10x15, and we have Monitor 9s in there. They don't really seem much bigger than the 7s, and sounded much better when I demoed them. Just my two cents.what kinda room treatments do you have?

Is anyone wall mounting their S2's as "front" speakers? I.e., I bought the B-Tech BT77 stand but it would only work if I was angling the speaker off the mount more than just a toe in. I.e., if I'm keeping the S2 straight out or slightly toed in, the S2 is simply too deep for the mount (short of screwing the mount into the speaker, which I'm loath to do (can't use the existing 1/4" mounting holes under the S2 unfortuantely). I can probably rig something up so that it works with the BT77, but would prefer not to have to do that if possible.

Seems Paradigm doesn't show any wall mounts on their site (unless I missed it).

Thx

Seems Paradigm doesn't show any wall mounts on their site (unless I missed it).

Thx

Well, no because they're not designed for wall mounting. It certainly won't be the way to get them them to perform at their best if you're using them for mains.

Well, no because they're not designed for wall mounting. It certainly won't be the way to get them them to perform at their best if you're using them for mains.

Yeah I know, have to deal with room size and WAF though. Was going to put them up and see what they sounded like.

Is anyone wall mounting their S2's as "front" speakers? I.e., I bought the B-Tech BT77 stand but it would only work if I was angling the speaker off the mount more than just a toe in. I.e., if I'm keeping the S2 straight out or slightly toed in, the S2 is simply too deep for the mount (short of screwing the mount into the speaker, which I'm loath to do (can't use the existing 1/4" mounting holes under the S2 unfortuantely). I can probably rig something up so that it works with the BT77, but would prefer not to have to do that if possible.

Seems Paradigm doesn't show any wall mounts on their site (unless I missed it).

Thxhttp://www.paradigm.com/en/pdf/paradigm_stand_brochure.pdf

http://www.paradigm.com/en/pdf/paradigm_stand_brochure.pdf

Thanks, ended up seeing that when I googled it. Unfortunately doesn't help!

Yeah I know, have to deal with room size and WAF though. Was going to put them up and see what they sounded like.

Well they're good speakers, they'll still sound good but not optimum.

The Paradigm "J" series stands are actually very nice & look better in real life, they might pass the WAF....

Is anyone wall mounting their S2's as "front" speakers? I.e., I bought the B-Tech BT77 stand but it would only work if I was angling the speaker off the mount more than just a toe in. I.e., if I'm keeping the S2 straight out or slightly toed in, the S2 is simply too deep for the mount (short of screwing the mount into the speaker, which I'm loath to do (can't use the existing 1/4" mounting holes under the S2 unfortuantely). I can probably rig something up so that it works with the BT77, but would prefer not to have to do that if possible.

Seems Paradigm doesn't show any wall mounts on their site (unless I missed it).

Thx

bluemark81 has some wall mounted, but not as front speakers.
http://gallery.avsforum.com/showphoto.php/photo/30988

Yeah, he's using the BT77's that I bought, but unfortunately they only work if the speakers are placed on an angle on the mount.

Just picked my sub 15 today and it's awesome! It's bigger than I thought it would be, I had only seen the sub 12 before which is much smaller. My old subs (dual dsp 3200) didn't do it for me, they had enough output but the sq wasn't there. The sub 15 isn't just one note bass like the dsp's, you can hear everything. I'll try out the pbk tomorrow, hopefully it will sound even better. I was also very pleased at how well and quickly it blended with my other speakers .(cc 590 v5, studio 20 v5) The dsp subs took alot of work and still wouldn't blend as well as I would like. Will the pbk aid in the sub fqr like having two subs? So far I'm very pleased but still wondering if I should start saving for another one. Any suggestions on further upgrades? My gear is as follows
Pioneer Elite sc 07
cc 590 v5
studio 20 v5
adp 390 v6
atom monitors v6
sub 15
I can't make up my mind about upgrading the surrounds or the mains, which to do first?

I can't make up my mind about upgrading the surrounds or the mains, which to do first?

I'd upgrade the mains first if you can spare the change. You'll get more improvement. Of course you could move the Studio 20's to the surrounds when you upgrade the mains....:D

Thanks, ended up seeing that when I googled it. Unfortunately doesn't help!

Hmmmm, may I ask why? The 2nd page (at the bottom) of the brochure showed Paradigms on-wall mounts...I'm guessing you may need to order (special??) through your dealer?

I'd upgrade the mains first if you can spare the change. You'll get more improvement. Of course you could move the Studio 20's to the surrounds when you upgrade the mains....:D

I would like to get the 100's but not sure if the sc 07 can push them.

... not sure if the sc 07 can push them.

Shouldn't be a problem at all. ICE amps usually are stable down to 2 ohms and can handle most loads easier than their watt ratings suggest.

Shouldn't be a problem at all. ICE amps usually are stable down to 2 ohms and can handle most loads easier than their watt ratings suggest.

lol im sure you have been messing with external ICE amps, but those built into receivers CANNOT handle down to 2ohms. BUT of course in this case they can handle the paradigm just fine.

Hmmmm, may I ask why? The 2nd page (at the bottom) of the brochure showed Paradigms on-wall mounts...I'm guessing you may need to order (special??) through your dealer?

Those on-wall mounts won't handle speakers larger than 18lbs.

I have a friend (seriously) who's looking to get a 5.1 setup for a small room (9x13). Their budget is ~$1500 for the speakers, and they want to have towers for the fronts. They have really enjoyed my Paradigm's (Studio 60s, and CC590) when they come and visit and would like to go with something in the Paradigm brand.

I was thinking of recommending the following:
Monitor 7's for the fronts
CC190 for the center
ADP190's for the rears
SVS PB10 subwoofer

I figure the Monitor 7s might be a touch too big, but they have made it clear they do not want smaller fronts on stands (kids and aesthetics).

I'm also wondering if the CC190 is too small for the Monitor 7's and I should recommend CC290 instead.

They would rather have the dipole surrounds as there's not enough room to put direct firing rears in.

So what do you think am I close price wise(I can't seem to find prices, even MSRP), is this likely to be a flawed setup. They're 60% Movies, 30% Video Games, 10% music.

Other recommendations are welcome if it can fit in the ~$1500 range (new please, they're not into used).

Thanks in advance!

I would think they might be disappointed if they auditioned the Studio 60s and then received monitors. For that budget and room size I'd seriously consider studio 10 or 20s in the front. (Stands can be as rock solid as well as a floor stander, the speaker actually bolting in to the stand). Then cc490 and surrounds recommended for the studio series. (For there budget and room size it would probably have to be Studio 10s, but man they are a fantastic speaker.)

lol im sure you have been messing with external ICE amps, but those built into receivers CANNOT handle down to 2ohms. BUT of course in this case they can handle the paradigm just fine.

Yeah, the key word was "usually". ;)
Never the less, one of the strengths of ICE amps is their bass "control" which is where the 100's usually (;)) benefit from extra power.

I was recently able to join the Paradigm family when I came upon a used pair of Studio 40 v.2's and a Studio CC. I understand that the 40's are supposed to be bookshelf and off the floor, but due to space restrictions, I have them on the floor (carpet) and toed in. I am running them with an Onkyo 607 and have Polk R10's as rears and front heights. When I first acquired the 40's I did put them up off the floor for a bit to see if there was any sound difference and I couldn't hear a noticeable difference. Is there anyone else out there that has them on the floor or does everyone put them on stands of some kind?

I was recently able to join the Paradigm family when I came upon a used pair of Studio 40 v.2's and a Studio CC. I understand that the 40's are supposed to be bookshelf and off the floor, but due to space restrictions, I have them on the floor (carpet) and toed in. I am running them with an Onkyo 607 and have Polk R10's as rears and front heights. When I first acquired the 40's I did put them up off the floor for a bit to see if there was any sound difference and I couldn't hear a noticeable difference. Is there anyone else out there that has them on the floor or does everyone put them on stands of some kind?

I highly recommend you use stands with the Studio 40's.
What space restriction do you have that prevents you from using a stand?

I highly recommend you use stands with the Studio 40's.
What space restriction do you have that prevents you from using a stand?


Bigred, no restrictions that prevent the use of stands. I was referring to restrictions that prevented me from placing them on my shelf unit. They are just a tad too wide to fit. I didn't want to buy stands unless I had to, so decided to try them on the floor. I also have an active dog and am afraid she will knock them over if on stands. Since there is no appreciable sound difference to my ears, out of curiosity, why stands?

Bigred, no restrictions that prevent the use of stands. I was referring to restrictions that prevented me from placing them on my shelf unit. They are just a tad too wide to fit. I didn't want to buy stands unless I had to, so decided to try them on the floor. I also have an active dog and am afraid she will knock them over if on stands. Since there is no appreciable sound difference to my ears, out of curiosity, why stands?

gotcha.

Well i find it strange that you dont hear a difference. The point is to try to get the speakers as close as possible to your ear level. Sitting on the floor they will basically be firing at your legs/feet. Sure you will hear the sound, but it wont be as focused as being on a stand.

gotcha.

Well i find it strange that you dont hear a difference. The point is to try to get the speakers as close as possible to your ear level. Sitting on the floor they will basically be firing at your legs/feet. Sure you will hear the sound, but it wont be as focused as being on a stand.

Ok, thanks Bigred. I'll give it another try for awhile. I'm sure I've got some milk crates or something around here that I can use to judge it for awhile without buying stands yet.;)

Just picked my sub 15 today and it's awesome! It's bigger than I thought it would be, I had only seen the sub 12 before which is much smaller. My old subs (dual dsp 3200) didn't do it for me, they had enough output but the sq wasn't there. The sub 15 isn't just one note bass like the dsp's, you can hear everything. I'll try out the pbk tomorrow, hopefully it will sound even better. I was also very pleased at how well and quickly it blended with my other speakers .(cc 590 v5, studio 20 v5) The dsp subs took alot of work and still wouldn't blend as well as I would like. Will the pbk aid in the sub fqr like having two subs? So far I'm very pleased but still wondering if I should start saving for another one. Any suggestions on further upgrades? My gear is as follows
Pioneer Elite sc 07
cc 590 v5
studio 20 v5
adp 390 v6
atom monitors v6
sub 15
I can't make up my mind about upgrading the surrounds or the mains, which to do first?

You'll love the pbk. It works magic. I have tried it on a sub 12 and it smoked what audessey could do :D I also have a Servo 15 and it is an awesome sub. You won't be dissappointed with your Sub 15.
John

gotcha.

Well i find it strange that you dont hear a difference. The point is to try to get the speakers as close as possible to your ear level. Sitting on the floor they will basically be firing at your legs/feet. Sure you will hear the sound, but it wont be as focused as being on a stand.


I find it strange too, because I can pick up difference in imaging with even slight placement differences. Having them on the floor will give weird early reflections they're not desinged for.
It's usually recommended that the tweeters be ear height...

Yeah, the key word was "usually". ;)
Never the less, one of the strengths of ICE amps is their bass "control" which is where the 100's usually (;)) benefit from extra power.

Does anyone have any experience running 100's with the sc 07 or sc 27? Do you think I should look into the 60's instead? I don't really want to buy an amp at this point in time, I would just like the best setup my sc 07 could handle.

You'll love the pbk. It works magic. I have tried it on a sub 12 and it smoked what audessey could do :D I also have a Servo 15 and it is an awesome sub. You won't be dissappointed with your Sub 15.
John

So far the Sub 15 is very good. I've been hearing or feeling bass that was just not there with the dsp 3200. didn't have time today to use the pbk, hopefully on sunday. One day I would like to add another. Would bass traps still improve bass quality or is that not needed with the pbk?

So far the Sub 15 is very good. I've been hearing or feeling bass that was just not there with the dsp 3200. didn't have time today to use the pbk, hopefully on sunday. One day I would like to add another. Would bass traps still improve bass quality or is that not needed with the pbk?

Bass traps are definately needed, and they will improve bass quality even more than a PBK.

Bass traps are definately needed, and they will improve bass quality even more than a PBK.

Sorry if someome has already asked this but should I run my receivers room correction before or after the pbk? Have you installed any bass traps? If so, which ones did you get and was there a big difference?

I'm getting a cc690 which has to sit above my TV. I need to angle it down pretty substantially as a result, and I wondered what recommendations you have to do that in a secure and aesthetically pleasing way. The space it sits on is secure and pretty deep. I think someone said they used the feet that come with it backwards, but I'm not sure that's going to cut it.

Ideas? Thanks!

I already got some nice thoughts from Dathon, but I wondered if anyone else had ideas here. I don't think wjat he suggested will be enough angle, and with the curved and heavy 690, I'm having difficulty figuring out how to securely angle it down.

Here's the room (click for larger image) with the 20 v.1 going to be making rears when the 60s arrive (and a cheap chair that has long since been removed):
http://www.schalliol.com/property/electronics/lightingsystem/GR_Northern_Pic_Sm.jpg (http://www.schalliol.com/property/electronics/lightingsystem/GR_Northern_Pic_Big.jpg)

Thanks for any thoughts!

So far the Sub 15 is very good. I've been hearing or feeling bass that was just not there with the dsp 3200. didn't have time today to use the pbk, hopefully on sunday. One day I would like to add another. Would bass traps still improve bass quality or is that not needed with the pbk?yes
http://www.gikacoustics.com/images/product/tritrap2_sm.jpghttp://www.gikacoustics.com/images/product/tritrap1_sm.jpg
http://www.gikacoustics.com/gik_tri_trap.html

Some people asked me for some pics a while back of my setup. It's still a work in progress but follow the link http://www.blu-ray.com/community/gallery.php?member=gates70 ...I still have the carpet to work on, wire management to be done, ceiling to install, and a second Sub12 to be added. Right now I have a Def Tech Supercube 1 on the other side to go along with my Sub12 but the pics that include it haven't been updated yet. By the way, the gallery starts off with old pics. It's a before and after gallery.

What receiver crossover setting would be recommended for the Signature S6 v2 and Signature C5 v2 speakers?

Thanks

What receiver crossover setting would be recommended for the Signature S6 v2 and Signature C5 v2 speakers?

Thanks

Most people just cross over at 80hz, and you can try other settings to see what sounds good to you, but in all honesty the right way to find out is to measure your in room response and let your room measurements help you decide what offers the best place to xover. Some people without measuring can have bad room modes which will present dips or nulls at certain crossovers making some xover choices the wrong ones. As every room is different, only measurements can truly give you the right answer to that question.

So the best answer is to let your room decide with measurements with something like REW (http://www.hometheatershack.com/roomeq/) can help you with.

You want a nice smooth transition from your mains to your sub, so you are not losing any impact or definition in response.

I already got some nice thoughts from Dathon, but I wondered if anyone else had ideas here. I don't think wjat he suggested will be enough angle, and with the curved and heavy 690, I'm having difficulty figuring out how to securely angle it down.


Thanks for any thoughts!

If you're handy you could build a plywood "triangle" and find bolts to go through it that fit into the CC's stand mount bolt sockets to secure it.

Sorry if someome has already asked this but should I run my receivers room correction before or after the pbk? Have you installed any bass traps? If so, which ones did you get and was there a big difference?

Run it after, the PBK will likely introduce delay that the receiver's room correction can compensate for.
It can't be done the other way around.

On the topic of bass traps and room EQ in general;

Any passive treatments like bass trapping, (and including proper speaker and sub placement) you can do before running an auto or manual EQ will yield tremendous benefits. It's well worth the effort.

The "Audio theory, Setup and Chat" forum is a must read area for anyone truly wanting to get the most out of their systems.

Well, it took me the entire day, but I managed to "jerry rig" the BT-77's to mount my S2's. Used two of these from Monoprice which I had lying around:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082805&p_id=3402&seq=1&format=2

Used some Tremclad gloss black spray paint to paint them black. Made a cardboard cut out of the brackets, then marked where the BT77 plate screw holes would be screwed into the bracket. Also marked where the Paradigm S2's own 1/4" speaker mount holes would meet the bracket.

Drilled the necessary holes into the bracket. Used 3 8-20 3/4" metal screws and bolts to bolt the bracket to the BT-77 bracket.

Then inserted some 1/4" machine screws (3/4" length) to mount the speaker to the BT77 bracket. Then mounted the BT77 bracket to the BT77 wall bracket (which was the biggest pain as I had no one around to help!).

I think I'll need to move my TV an inch or to to the left (being really anal about it) to get it perfectly centre, but for not it will do!

Have moved my PB13 up to the front and am now rerunning Audyssey and will post pics in a bit.

Phew.

Oh, I also bought some thick dark grey "eco underpad" to use as an absorption pad in between the speaker bottom and the monoprice bracket. Was going to wait for some Mopads that I ordered, but I think those would be too thick given the application.

Cool pbc, looking forward to your own personal rig up to get those speakers mounted.... the BT-77's are good brackets, but can't be everything for everyone.... glad you go them to work...

With my S2's turned sideways on the brackets I didn't have the complications you ran into.

Some pics.

Naked...:D

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=161451&stc=1&d=1261347414

All dressed up ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=161452&stc=1&d=1261347705

Right BT77 ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=161453&stc=1&d=1261347802

Left BT77

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=161454&stc=1&d=1261347850

Thinking of cutting out the additional pad. But doesn't look too too bad.

Once my Auralex Mopads come in I'll plop the C3 on those to get a slight upward angle and isolate the C3 from the Salamander Triple 20.

Excuse the photography, I'm horrible at it!! Never know what settings to use on the digital camera!

As for the sound ... much much better than before. Really filling up the room now that the S2's are more spaced out. The bass seems to blend better as well and not be as localized as when the sub was nearfield.

But still need to play with cross overs. Have it at 100 right now, might try 80. Bass seems a bit overpowering. So may have to turn down the SVS a tad, but I'm betting I have a peak somewhere that isn't tamed.

No time for REW right now though.

May even try the sealed config given how corner loaded the sub is. Plus I barely have the sub's gain past 1/4 of the way, so I'm hardly using any of the amp power. Not sure headroom will be an issue with the sub in sealed mode. Hmmmm.

Okay, just running Audyssey (only have time for 3 positions) with the SVS in sealed mode.

Oh, as for the fronts, will eventually get around to somehow hiding those speaker wires (likely run them into the wall from the bottom and out the top).

Given that my wife just came in and said "that looks friggin gawd awful" I may have to do it sooner than I wanted to. I did mention that I would likely get two small subs up front and replace the PB13 and she gave me a mean look. Guess I'll have more time to listen to this tonight. Might be sleeping on this couch. :)

I find it strange too, because I can pick up difference in imaging with even slight placement differences. Having them on the floor will give weird early reflections they're not desinged for.
It's usually recommended that the tweeters be ear height...


Ok I found a couple of patio end tables that position the 40's almost at exactly ear level at my viewing chair and after almost a full day, I can tell a difference. Seems to be more clarity off the floor. I think when they were on the carpeted floor, there was more bass--maybe a bit of muffled sound. Right now I don't have my STF-2 hooked up as I moved it on the other side of the room next to my chair and still need to run the cable through the wall and across the ceiling. But even without the STF-2, the 40's have very nice bass response. I am extremely happy with them.:)

So here are pics of my setup...

http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv78/Gates70/IMG_4704.jpg

http://i671.photobucket.com/albums/vv78/Gates70/HT/IMG_4539.jpg

Wow ... what is the sub on the left? Kind of looks like a Mirage BPS-400, but smaller.

Wow ... what is the sub on the left? Kind of looks like a Mirage BPS-400, but smaller.

It's a Def Tech Supercube 1. It's temporary...I'm awaiting my second Sub12.

Okay, just running Audyssey (only have time for 3 positions) with the SVS in sealed mode.

Oh, as for the fronts, will eventually get around to somehow hiding those speaker wires (likely run them into the wall from the bottom and out the top).

Given that my wife just came in and said "that looks friggin gawd awful" I may have to do it sooner than I wanted to. I did mention that I would likely get two small subs up front and replace the PB13 and she gave me a mean look. Guess I'll have more time to listen to this tonight. Might be sleeping on this couch. :)2 sub 12's in piano black?

2 sub 12's in piano black?

Not sure. Ideally would want the Sub 25's or Sub 15s, but $6 to $8k in subs (CDA costs) is ridiculous.

Considering HSU ULS-15's. May just wait to see how the SVS sealed versions stack up when they come out later this year.

Not sure. Ideally would want the Sub 25's or Sub 15s, but $6 to $8k in subs (CDA costs) is ridiculous.

Considering HSU ULS-15's. May just wait to see how the SVS sealed versions stack up when they come out later this year.i fugured 2 sub 12's because you had to turn down the svs 13

Not sure. Ideally would want the Sub 25's or Sub 15s, but $6 to $8k in subs (CDA costs) is ridiculous.

Considering HSU ULS-15's. May just wait to see how the SVS sealed versions stack up when they come out later this year.

Why not build your own and get everything you want and more for 1/3 that price....

Heres a good thread - http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60847

Why not build your own and get everything you want and more for 1/3 that price....i think he was going for looks also because of the wife

I can't think of a decent cabinet builder that couldn't replicate a Paradigm Sub, and still come in at far less the cost....

And seeing as he is considering a ULS-15, that shouldn't be all that difficult... I'll finally be getting my subs veneer finished with cherry to match Sig S8's finish, magnetic grill and Granite on top.... Hope to be done with them by the end of January...

Sorry if someome has already asked this but should I run my receivers room correction before or after the pbk? Have you installed any bass traps? If so, which ones did you get and was there a big difference?

rnrgagne beat me to it...:) And, he explained it perfectly.

Btw, I am using the GIK Tri-traps posted a few posts above. There is a very substantial difference imho.

rnrgagne beat me to it...:) And, he explained it perfectly.

Btw, I am using the GIK Tri-traps posted a few posts above. There is a very substantial difference imho.i was just about to buy 4. should i buy 8 to go up to the celing?

Why not build your own and get everything you want and more for 1/3 that price....

Heres a good thread - http://forums.audioholics.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60847

May actually consider this route as if things go right I might have some "time on my hands" in a few months. Would just need to find cabinets similar to say the ULS as I prefer that rounded look to say the Rythmics. Plus, I have no idea what I'm doing, so it will take some time to figure out!!

Do you have a build thread btw?

i was just about to buy 4. should i buy 8 to go up to the celing?

Yes, buy 8 if you can swing it... I went with one Tri-trap in each corner, only because I don't have the height to go floor to ceiling with dual traps.

May actually consider this route as if things go right I might have some "time on my hands" in a few months. Would just need to find cabinets similar to say the ULS as I prefer that rounded look to say the Rythmics. Plus, I have no idea what I'm doing, so it will take some time to figure out!!

Do you have a build thread btw?

Trust me, its worth your while to check into it... Speakers are one thing, but subs are a whole lot different - nothing magical in building a sub, far easier, just selecting the right driver and building a good cabinet... I prefer the best drivers possible, and sealed they take a good deal of amp power, less so with a dual opposed build. My room requirements are far more then most have to deal with.... so I had to go in a different direction...



Here is one of the build threads.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1104579&highlight=

I also have one on Audioholics... somewhere

Not a big fan of big ported boxes, too obtrusive - had a number of SVS's, but I have grown to love sealed.

I started with 15" boxes, but that was not enough output, moved up to 18" Mal-X's drivers in 24" cubed boxes, they were close in the output but still not powerful enough, I pushed them to hard. I am replacing the Mal-X's with 18" TC Sounds LMS's (got 2 so far), which have been out of production, but TC-Sounds is making a comeback, my 3rd 18" LMS is due the end of January, they are expensive drivers - they will be priced at $1600 each RAW. 15" LMS's should be available very soon to follow. Best measuring lowest distortion drivers to date. Pushing them with 4000w each... I have 2 of those and am waiting on the 3rd, with awith 15" in the back of the room.

Others have made their own Fathoms, with the JL 13W7, or make your own submersive with a pair of dual opposed 15" AE drivers (http://aespeakers.com/shop/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=67)or a mini submersive with a pair of 12" (http://aespeakers.com/shop/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=66) dual opposed drivers for a smaller cabinet scenario. You could easily outperform a Paradigm sub 12 or 15 with either of those scenario's.

You could build a mini submersive for around $1K, with a Behringer DCX2496 for a subwoofer EQ, and you got quite an impressive sub.
2 x 12" drivers dual opposed $460
Behringer EP2500 or EP4000 Amp $300 (that would be enough amp for 2 of those subs.)
DCX2496 EQ $250
Supplies $100 or so

Build 2 of those and they would be Extremely impressive
Check this build, remember, your mind is the imagination... http://www.avforums.com/forums/diy-subwoofer-build/1093429-acoustic-elegance-av15-x-dual-driver-opposed.html

Update, here is a submersive close DIY build with dual opposed 15" AE drivers I posted, I think that gets a go for sexy enough, what do you think... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17677633#post17677633

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t195/djarchow1/Dual_sub.jpg

Not sure. Ideally would want the Sub 25's or Sub 15s, but $6 to $8k in subs (CDA costs) is ridiculous.

Considering HSU ULS-15's. May just wait to see how the SVS sealed versions stack up when they come out later this year.

Two smaller subs? I picked up my Sub 15 on friday and its not small, I would imagine the Sub 25 is around the same size.

It's a Def Tech Supercube 1. It's temporary...I'm awaiting my second Sub12.

I see that you have a Pioneer Elite receiver, I have the sc 07 with some studio 20 v5 and was thinking of going up to the 60's or 100's. Does yours push the 60's well?

^^here's your answer (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showpost.php?p=17515244&postcount=12810)

Two smaller subs? I picked up my Sub 15 on friday and its not small, I would imagine the Sub 25 is around the same size.

Both are considerably smaller than the PB13, trust me.

Trust me, its worth your while to check into it... Speakers are one thing, but subs are a whole lot different - nothing magical in building a sub, far easier, just selecting the right driver and building a good cabinet... I prefer the best drivers possible, and sealed they take a good deal of amp power, less so with a dual opposed build. My room requirements are far more then most have to deal with.... so I had to go in a different direction...



Here is one of the build threads.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1104579&highlight=

I also have one on Audioholics... somewhere

Not a big fan of big ported boxes, too obtrusive - had a number of SVS's, but I have grown to love sealed.

I started with 15" boxes, but that was not enough output, moved up to 18" Mal-X's drivers in 24" cubed boxes, they were close in the output but still not powerful enough, I pushed them to hard. I am replacing the Mal-X's with 18" TC Sounds LMS's (got 2 so far), which have been out of production, but TC-Sounds is making a comeback, my 3rd 18" LMS is due the end of January, they are expensive drivers - they will be priced at $1600 each RAW. 15" LMS's should be available very soon to follow. Best measuring lowest distortion drivers to date. Pushing them with 4000w each... I have 2 of those and am waiting on the 3rd, with awith 15" in the back of the room.

Others have made their own Fathoms, with the JL 13W7, or make your own submersive with a pair of dual opposed 15" AE drivers (http://aespeakers.com/shop/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=67)or a mini submersive with a pair of 12" (http://aespeakers.com/shop/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=66) dual opposed drivers for a smaller cabinet scenario. You could easily outperform a Paradigm sub 12 or 15 with either of those scenario's.

You could build a mini submersive for around $1K, with a Behringer DCX2496 for a subwoofer EQ, and you got quite an impressive sub.
2 x 12" drivers dual opposed $460
Behringer EP2500 or EP4000 Amp $300 (that would be enough amp for 2 of those subs.)
DCX2496 EQ $250
Supplies $100 or so

Build 2 of those and they would be Extremely impressive
Check this build, remember, your mind is the imagination... http://www.avforums.com/forums/diy-subwoofer-build/1093429-acoustic-elegance-av15-x-dual-driver-opposed.html

Update, here is a submersive close DIY build with dual opposed 15" AE drivers I posted, I think that gets a go for sexy enough, what do you think... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17677633#post17677633



Going to "slowly" start to look into this. I have an old family friend who's an excellent carpenter. Might look at building a box similar to that Jason Coleman fellow, but 20" max diameters versus his 24".

Wish plate amps were available that had similar wattage to the new Sub25. Hard to find any over 1,000 watts. Not sure I'll have the space for an external amp + EQ, and definitely don't want to have to change my rack which I just purchased a couple months ago!

Lukewarm on the idea, posted a thread in the DIY forum to see what kinds of responses I get (and get the discussion out of this thread!) and how hard things will be to find in Canada in particular.

Going to "slowly" start to look into this. I have an old family friend who's an excellent carpenter. Might look at building a box similar to that Jason Coleman fellow, but 20" max diameters versus his 24".

Wish plate amps were available that had similar wattage to the new Sub25. Hard to find any over 1,000 watts. Not sure I'll have the space for an external amp + EQ, and definitely don't want to have to change my rack which I just purchased a couple months ago!

Lukewarm on the idea, posted a thread in the DIY forum to see what kinds of responses I get (and get the discussion out of this thread!) and how hard things will be to find in Canada in particular.

Yeah, that is the one issue with going this route....
I am lucky, I have my 4 - 4000w amps in the room just below the entertainment console, dam things are like jet engine running all at the same time. Too loud for in room, but this works out perfectly for me.

If you can remotely locate them - that would be ideal.

Right BT77 ...

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=161453&stc=1&d=1261347802

Left BT77

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/attachment.php?attachmentid=161454&stc=1&d=1261347850

That's purdy. What are you plans for those speaker wires? I recently had a similar situation and bought some white Wiremold and am very happy with the clean look.

Of course my other option was to fish through the wall, but I live in an apt so...

Anyway very clean looking set up. I bet it's a joy to experience.

Don

That's purdy. What are you plans for those speaker wires? I recently had a similar situation and bought some white Wiremold and am very happy with the clean look.

Of course my other option was to fish through the wall, but I live in an apt so...

Anyway very clean looking set up. I bet it's a joy to experience.

Don

Yes, planning on fishing them. But they'd still be visible at the bottom. May just wait to see if I end up purchasing or building dual subs and setting the S2's on top of them as that would eliminate the need to do anything with the wires. So I'll live with them like this for a while. Well, assuming my wife doesn't kill me first.

Yes, planning on fishing them. But they'd still be visible at the bottom. May just wait to see if I end up purchasing or building dual subs and setting the S2's on top of them as that would eliminate the need to do anything with the wires. So I'll live with them like this for a while. Well, assuming my wife doesn't kill me first. this is in a house?

Warpdrv is just that; warped when it comes to bass! Can you say OCD? :D
(Yeah, yeah I know... I got it too!;))

I really like the little Rythmik servo's I put together, for a 16X24 room they were more than enough, they had an almost ruler flat response down to 14hz out of the box so to speak;

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z212/RNRGAGNE/IMG_1297.jpg


http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z212/RNRGAGNE/HPIM1095.jpg

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z212/RNRGAGNE/HPIM1096.jpg

As far as using them under tyour S2's I did the same with my S4's, hacking down a pair of J26 stands;

http://i195.photobucket.com/albums/z212/RNRGAGNE/012-1.jpg


Of course you can see the big old IB sub in the background and if you've got a room connecting to your HT you can build a variety of IB subs that probably produce the most accurate bass you can get, and you don't need a billion watts to power them. My IB is powered by a pair of 125 watt ICE amps;

http://ibsubwoofers.proboards.com/index.cgi

I see that you have a Pioneer Elite receiver, I have the sc 07 with some studio 20 v5 and was thinking of going up to the 60's or 100's. Does yours push the 60's well?

Yes I have the SC-05 and it pushes them very well. My room is 14 X 23 and I listen at -20 to -15 and hardly ever go beyond that.

this is in a house?

yes...

Warpdrv is just that; warped when it comes to bass! Can you say OCD? :D
(Yeah, yeah I know... I got it too!;))

I really like the little Rythmik servo's I put together, for a 16X24 room they were more than enough, they had an almost ruler flat response down to 14hz out of the box so to speak;


Where did you find the boxes and what's the dimension? That's exactly what I'm looking for in terms of looks. Build thread?

I'm a new and proud owner of Paradigm Studio 40 v4. I bought the pair couple of months ago. Currently I'm driving it with Onkyo TX-SR501. But I feel the receiver is a bit underpowered. I would like to get you guy's suggestion on the following Q's. Thanks a lot!

1. Should I change to a more powerful receiver? Is denon avr 1910 a good choice (performance/price wise)?
2. For HT, now I'm using some Cambridge Soundworks CC/surround speakers. I plan to switch those speakers with paradigm ones. Which CC/surround speakers go well with Studio 40 v4?

Where did you find the boxes and what's the dimension? That's exactly what I'm looking for in terms of looks. Build thread?

There was a local company here that was building speakers (Raw Acoustics). I just told them what I wanted and they built em. The kit called for 1.5 cubic foot internal volume for a sealed unit so I said I wanted that with as small of a front pofile as possible with rounded corners, cheery veneer and strong internal bracing. The front baffle is 1-1/2" thick, and they were quite deep to make up for the small front profile. With the driver/amp kit it was about $650-$700 all in for a 12" sealed servo. (IIRC)

Rythmik actually makes finished subs now but they went with a square box.

I'm a new and proud owner of Paradigm Studio 40 v4. I bought the pair couple of months ago. Currently I'm driving it with Onkyo TX-SR501. But I feel the receiver is a bit underpowered. I would like to get you guy's suggestion on the following Q's. Thanks a lot!

1. Should I change to a more powerful receiver? Is denon avr 1910 a good choice (performance/price wise)?
2. For HT, now I'm using some Cambridge Soundworks CC/surround speakers. I plan to switch those speakers with paradigm ones. Which CC/surround speakers go well with Studio 40 v4?

Are you using a sub?

Staying with the Studio series for the CC is a good idea, and for the surrounds too if you can swing it, but the surrounds aren't as "critical" to voice as the mains and CC and the back surrounds even less so.

what's the dimension?

Missed that part I think they were 13" X 13" X 26". The length could be +/- a couple of inches, and the front might have been 13-1/2" I don't recall exactly.

To those who have heard both, how do the Ascend Sierra-1's compare to the S2's?

The S2's are def much smoother and open on the top end also with better room dispersion.. The Sierra's are great little speakers, but there is no question that the S2's with the Be tweeter are in a whole other league...

We had a small GTG a month and 1/2 ago.... which included both those speakers, but I'll post a link to the unbiased thoughts of the other members that attended.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=17458921#post17458921

The reviews of these speakers at the GTG are posted starting there and a few posts after.... hope that helps..

rnrgagne,

Those Rythmik kits look great! Lovin those cabinets you had made, very nice. You and Warpdrv have convinced, and thinking seriously about going diy for my next sub upgrade project.:) Of coarse, that will be a few years out yet...;) Maybe...:D

Seriously though, my wife will kill me if I even mention the word upgrade for the next couple years.:eek:

Btw, your theater setup looks great too...

Thanks.
Definitely a labor of love. I built th IB sub and most of the HT myself but the rythmik was more of a kit assembly. I didn't do much except stain & varathane them.

I'm a new and proud owner of Paradigm Studio 40 v4. I bought the pair couple of months ago. Currently I'm driving it with Onkyo TX-SR501. But I feel the receiver is a bit underpowered. I would like to get you guy's suggestion on the following Q's. Thanks a lot!

1. Should I change to a more powerful receiver? Is denon avr 1910 a good choice (performance/price wise)?
2. For HT, now I'm using some Cambridge Soundworks CC/surround speakers. I plan to switch those speakers with paradigm ones. Which CC/surround speakers go well with Studio 40 v4?

You should try a better receiver for the 40's. I have Monitor 9's and going from an Onkyo 607 to 807 made a significant difference in sound quality and power. Even at lower volumes, they sound a lot better.