I used the HDNet test pattern a couple weeks ago. In movie mode I was able to set it up so I could see both the zero and the 10 at the same time over both component and HDMI. I have since gone into the service menu and changed gamma to zero. I can no longer see the 10 in the test pattern and assumed it had something to do with changing gamma from 2 to zero. I hope to confirm this later today. I haven’t tried it in standard mode but I will.


I think you are seeing the same behavior as I see. I thought I was alone until your post. The first time I pick Movie Mode, I get the the blacker than black. However, if I go back to the TV later (after switching inputs or turning it off and on) I do not see the blacker than black items (10 on the HDNET Test Pattern). I am going to call Samsung tonight and see if they have a solution.

To test this, switch from Movie back to Standard and then back to Movie. I bet your black 10 reappears until you turn off the TV.

I'm in a quandary here guys.

My family room is 16 x 28. Viewing distance is 15 feet on average. It's not a very bright room so I don't belive I'll have problems with reflections.

I can't decide which set is best for my room. I'm leaning toward the 7178 but can't decide if the extra $1200 over the 6768 is worth the price!

Also, after checking the spec sheet on brightness is see the 71 is 500 cd/m and the 67 is 550 cd/m. I looked at a Sony Quaila and noted that it was very bright, I wonder how the 71 will compare to the Sony?

Since no one has seen either model I think I'll wait until they are on the street and hope to still have time to get in on the power buy.

Any thoughts?

Hal..At 13-14 feet I went with the 6768...should have it next week.

Or maybe there is a way to output 1080p video over firewire from a computer video editing program?



I have both Final Cut HD and Avid XPress Pro HD at home. Although a Google search revealed discussions of 1080P support in Version 5, my cursory review of the settings menus finds only 1080i references. I am new to Final Cut, so that is hardly the "Final" word. I need to get to work, so I'll have to check XPress Pro later, but I can check the HD Avids and Discreet Fire at work.

Jim

I think you are seeing the same behavior as I see. I thought I was alone until your post. The first time I pick Movie Mode, I get the the blacker than black. However, if I go back to the TV later (after switching inputs or turning it off and on) I do not see the blacker than black items (10 on the HDNET Test Pattern). I am going to call Samsung tonight and see if they have a solution.

To test this, switch from Movie back to Standard and then back to Movie. I bet your black 10 reappears until you turn off the TV.
Interesting. I haven't done this with the test pattern, but I did experience similar results when I calibrated my DVD player. For example, if I set my brightness using Movie mode, and then switched to Standard mode, when I swithed back to Movie mode, the setting I used no longer worked. It does appear though that once you switch and then switch back, the second time you enter the mode does seem to have the correct settings b/c after I swithced back and forth a bunch of times after that the BTB settings were no longer required to be changed. Hopefully that makes sense. BTW - I doubt Samsung will have a solution. I would expect that this all has something to do with the new chips used in these sets and the extremely high contrast ratio. It may just be that the test pattern is not meant to be used with this type of set. Also, one of the above posts indicated he turned the Gamma setting down to ) and it seemed to exacerbate this issue, which may mean that for these sets a change to the gamma setting (in the SM) is NOT recommended.

I'm in a quandary here guys.

My family room is 16 x 28. Viewing distance is 15 feet on average. It's not a very bright room so I don't belive I'll have problems with reflections.

I can't decide which set is best for my room. I'm leaning toward the 7178 but can't decide if the extra $1200 over the 6768 is worth the price!

Also, after checking the spec sheet on brightness is see the 71 is 500 cd/m and the 67 is 550 cd/m. I looked at a Sony Quaila and noted that it was very bright, I wonder how the 71 will compare to the Sony?

Since no one has seen either model I think I'll wait until they are on the street and hope to still have time to get in on the power buy.

Any thoughts?

Hal..

Sounds wise (to wait to see). I somewhat in the same boat, and want to wait and see the Sammy 7178 compared to the Mits 73727, comparing brightness etc.

Thanks, Charlvit, that was certainly a ringing endorsement. I was particularly struck by your comment re picture quality at factory default settings, since I had read so much indicating that expensive IFS in-home calibration (or at least do-it-yourself calibration with an AVIA Disc) would be a worthwhile investment.
How do the non-HD inputs such as local news programs look? I have seen comments saying that on some HD sets they really look bad.

Jack123

Had a chance to view the 6168 yesterday in a NC Tweeter store. Notes:

The 61x8 was the only 1080 model they had so I compared it to 720p DLP as well as smaller 42" and 50" plasmas. All units had the same feed, but I did not get any information about the connections used and I certainly wouldn't think a tech had tweeked any of the sets as far as I could see.

Clay face: Saw this per discussed in this thread, every time is showed up on the 1080p tv, it was there on the 720p AND the plasmas. I think clay face is all a garbage in-garbage out issue. The clay faces were evident mostly on the commercials and NOT on the programming [which happened to be Discovery channel]

The picture was absolutely stunning, but have to admit it wasn't bad on the 720 models. I don't think DLP has to ask for any excuses versus plasma either. From any reasonable angle, all sets were bright and easy on the eye. The new Sammie was the best and DLP just has a more movie look than plasma to me.

Can't wait to get my already ordered much awaited 6168.

I think you are seeing the same behavior as I see. I thought I was alone until your post. The first time I pick Movie Mode, I get the the blacker than black. However, if I go back to the TV later (after switching inputs or turning it off and on) I do not see the blacker than black items (10 on the HDNET Test Pattern). I am going to call Samsung tonight and see if they have a solution.

To test this, switch from Movie back to Standard and then back to Movie. I bet your black 10 reappears until you turn off the TV.

Sounds like Samsung may be having problems with their non-volatile memory. I read a few pages back about a 'similar' incident (unable to keep updated settings), the issue you mention, and some folks stating DNIe 'on' within the SM will not hold/save this setting upon exiting then reentering SM.

we all can count no need for an inventory, geez louise. I think that people are learning form me here unlike others. This is not a race or how many post you can post to win a trophy. Dont think that you are not getting anywhere becuase I post great post. Some will disagree with your comments.

You are too new to judge.
Thanks.

I expecty people to disagree...these are public forums with people of all walks of life. As for the newness, I joined 10 month's prior to your joining and I lurked for 6 month's prior to that. I just have a third the posts and this one isn't necessary either, but my Type A persoanlity can't let it slide... :rolleyes: This is the last public answer to you unless we have something constructive to say about a 1080p Samsung... I will be happy to PM you though.

Stallion Re has indicated that on his 5688, under the DNIe Demo Menu (accessed from Menu -> Picture -> DNIe Demo) there are four choices, not two: Demo On, Demo Off, DNIe On, DNIe off.

Sorry, but my 5688 lists only two options for the Demo: On and Off. Once the demo is on the screen, the left side of the screen reads DNIe On and the right sdie reads DNIe Off. I played with the various up,down, right, and left buttons on the remote, but in no way was I able to highlight and choose DNIe On or DNIe Off. Thus, I too have to conclude that DNIe is always on. I will not go into the service menu without expert advice.

My model was manufactured in July 2005. I am not doubting what Stallion found. I merely was unable to verify Stallion's claim on my set alone.

Since I am sometimes unable to find a container of milk right in front of me in the refrigerator, Stallion, could you please post a picture of the menu with the four options. Thanks.

Emil I posted a similar post as this one.
I too have the 5688 & there is only 2 options "DNIE DEMO ON/OFF" to choose from. I have to believe Stallion pulling peoples legs with his claim of 4 options for DNIE! :rolleyes:
Maybe he's looking for attention!

Regarding Samsung's answers to those that called about DNIe; they are stating what is supposed to be, not necessarily what is.

When I spoke with a level 2 tech, he knew what I was talking about. That's when he told me the Korean engineers were working on it.

Emil I posted a similar post as this one.
I too have the 5688 & there is only 2 options "DNIE DEMO ON/OFF" to choose from. I have to believe Stallion pulling peoples legs with his claim of 4 options for DNIE! :rolleyes:
Maybe he's looking for attention!

FWIW, I only have the demo on/off on my 5688 and haven't found any way to actually turn it on or off.

Where does it list what version of the firmware is currently installed? If it helps, I can try to look that up and post it for comparison.

Stallion was confused because he not only owns Samsungs entire new lineup, but also last years lineup :D

No, his tv does not have special powers.
I sold all my last years line up to my neighbor and friends for $3,000.00. They paid for my new line up now, at least 50% of it. All I have is this years new Line up and love them both. The 88 does work differently than the 78. So I am correct about the DNIe feature.

You can in fact turn the DNIe on and off, also you can turn the Demo DNIe on and off too for the model 88 series only. I know how my Tv's work.

P.S. My model was produced in Korea not Mexico in July 2005. This might make a difference.

Thanks anyway.

Yesterday I received my SpyderTV coloromiter. This nifty little gadget attaches to a PC on one end and the "Spyder" attaches to your screen.

There's a DVD you use with a set of test patterns. The software wizard guides you through the calibration process, which takes about 30 minutes.

I have to say, I'm impressed with the recommended picture adjustments. Here's what my new settings are. BTW, I ran the program 3 times with identical results.

My set is a 6178, with an Onkyo SP1000 DVD player. The measurements were taken in a totally darkened room (recommended).

Mode: Standard
Color Temp: Warm 2
Brightness: 51
Contrast: 94
Color: 43

Those of you with new sets may want to start here, and adjust for personal preference.

I expecty people to disagree...these are public forums with people of all walks of life. As for the newness, I joined 10 month's prior to your joining and I lurked for 6 month's prior to that. I just have a third the posts and this one isn't necessary either, but my Type A persoanlity can't let it slide... :rolleyes: This is the last public answer to you unless we have something constructive to say about a 1080p Samsung... I will be happy to PM you though.
Sounds good to me. I think most of my post are very good that you can learn from. Others are saying that I am doing real well with PM. Thanks for your input. I guess that you didnt read all my post that I reviewed my sets with a large post. It was some pages back. Didnt mean to be so hard on you, but I dont know why people have to attack others.

Emil I posted a similar post as this one.
I too have the 5688 & there is only 2 options "DNIE DEMO ON/OFF" to choose from. I have to believe Stallion pulling peoples legs with his claim of 4 options for DNIE! :rolleyes:
Maybe he's looking for attention!
Whatever, I dont need any attention from anyone here, I get enough loving at home. Thanks anyway. I wouldnt want your attention anyway. No matter what you all say, my 88 series can turn the DNIe on or off. Not only for the Demo either. I really believe that you guys are playing with me. Maybe you dont know how your set works. That is not my fault. Read more about your sets. Why dont you guys go to Fry's and try there sets. The floor model at fry's in Burbank, CA showed the same thing that I have been talking about all along, Series 88 one. I even called Samsung and they said that there new models have these options. So hold all your horses back. I am right. But I will not say anymore about this, since you guys are simply unhappy with your sets. This is not my fault. I feel good.

If you dont want to believe me, then this is on you, I am very happy that my sets work the way that Samsung designed them to work. IE I am a very special customer of Samsung probably more than most of you here.

HLR5078XAA (mexico edition) on Samsung stand (so its level) , ALL sources

My hoizontal geometry is off atleast an 1/8 of an inch from one side of the screen to the other. This is my 2nd set, with the same problem.

I've been offered to have a tech come out and replace the engine, but this may be a problem with the mirrors?

Any suggestions?

BTW: A Samsung rep said the DNie is always on (78 series). He also stated the TV will not be able to accept a 1080p signal through ANY input. It will only upconvert to 1080p.

Received my 5668 on Friday along with SS 950 Dvd, stand (Samsung) and HDTV box from Adelphia. Initial comments:

1. After all this talk about camels and donkeys, you'd think I'd be smart enough NOT to just put the thing in the house on the freshly chem-dried and very light carpet. Never mind that my wife suggested it. When I had her help pick it up, we moved the box and . . . I had my first out of body experience. Lesson here -- unpack it in the garage!

2. After hooking everything up, I tuned to an HDTV channel and fired her up . . . And had my second out of body experience. Very nice! In fact, my wife even forgot her angst from earlier in the day. Had some friends over for a BBQ and one pointed out that I still had some packing tape and styrofoam on the set. I told him that I had left it that way in case I needed to return it. His "you've got to be kidding me, dumb ass look" reminded me of a similar one from my wife earlier (see para 1).

3. I've never had an HDTV before, so I don't have anything to compare this one to. I bought the 68 series because of its state of the art, had higher contrast than the 67 and I had read so much good about it on this forum. Stuck with 56 because of the brightness and size of the room. I haven't noticed any signficant lip synch issues with the TV's own speakers. I haven't got it all figured out in terms of audio out, etc but I'm confident that this is a keeper.

More later.
I received my 5678 last night also, made the same mistake you did and unpacked the TV in the house. After removing the packing I noticed the mess with my wifes assistance. Then spent the next few hours cleaning carpet as apposed to enjoying my new TV.

Yesterday I received my SpyderTV coloromiter. This nifty little gadget attaches to a PC on one end and the "Spyder" attaches to your screen.

There's a DVD you use with a set of test patterns. The software wizard guides you through the calibration process, which takes about 30 minutes.

I have to say, I'm impressed with the recommended picture adjustments. Here's what my new settings are. BTW, I ran the program 3 times with identical results.

My set is a 6178, with an Onkyo SP1000 DVD player. The measurements were taken in a totally darkened room (recommended).

Mode: Standard
Color Temp: Warm 2
Brightness: 51
Contrast: 94
Color: 43

Those of you with new sets may want to start here, and adjust for personal preference.

Rabid1, thanks so much for the settings, I will make these my custom settings too. I like to change my settings for each input that I use for my set.
Right now I have it set to Dynamic, Warm 1 and DNIe on, not the demo on (88 Series).

Isnt warm 2, too yellow or dark? I find warm 1 to be slightly better than warm 2. I will try your settings out. Great post. Thanks agian.

My settings are currently,
Warm 1
Color 55
Contrast 50
Brightness 50

HLR5078XAA (mexico edition) on Samsung stand (so its level) , ALL sources

My hoizontal geometry is off atleast an 1/8 of an inch from one side of the screen to the other. This is my 2nd set, with the same problem.

I've been offered to have a tech come out and replace the engine, but this may be a problem with the mirrors?

Any suggestions?

BTW: A Samsung rep said the DNie is always on (78 series). He also stated the TV will not be able to accept a 1080p signal through ANY input. It will only upconvert to 1080p.
I am hearing this through many different threads that the sets are being shipped like this from Mexico. But the ones from Korea are good. I dont know why this is. When I talked to Samsung today, they are looking into this.

This is good to know. Thanks, good job.

Rabid -

Can you post the report from the SypderTV analysis?

I received my 5678 last night also, made the same mistake you did and unpacked the TV in the house. After removing the packing I noticed the mess with my wifes assistance. Then spent the next few hours cleaning carpet as apposed to enjoying my new TV.
I know what you mean completely. Looking at the bottom of the TV box, I didnt even want my set in the garage which I have carpet. The deliever men, un boxed mine outside the house on his 18 wheeler and then hand carried it in with three men.. I am totally satisfied with them. The delievery company was one of the very best that I have ever seen. NVC.com I asked Vanns in New Jersey to give me the best and they sure did for only $99.00 too. They drove from New Jersey to CA for this price. The gas in my car cost more than this in a two week period.

He also stated the TV will not be able to accept a 1080p signal through ANY input. It will only upconvert to 1080p.

I thought we had it on good authority that the VGA port would support 1080p. Any computer output will be progressive and not interlaced so this statement would infer that maybe 720p was the max resolution input for the VGA port. I don't think so. I certainly hope this in not true. I was really counting on being able to hook up a PS3 to the VGA port and use it for true 1080p games. Am I dreaming? Do I have to wait yet another year?

I thought we had it on good authority that the VGA port would support 1080p. Any computer output will be progressive and not interlaced so this statement would infer that maybe 720p was the max resolution input for the VGA port. I don't think so. I certainly hope this in not true. I was really counting on being able to hook up a PS3 to the VGA port and use it for true 1080p games. Am I dreaming? Do I have to wait yet another year?

Yes it accepts 1080p60 on the VGA port. Several people already posted pics of this.

Dennis: I completely agree with you reg. your point about comparison. If you like the LCD RPTV better, go for it. However, I would urge you to go find a place which has one of these 1080P puppies setup half-decent and you will find that it blows away any and all competition. Heck - even the HLR 5667 is a great set, IMHO.

It could be that the TV you saw has the red-spot problem that some folks on this forum have mentioned (but they all had the issue with their HDMI inputs only). Most stores I have seen connect their TVs with Component - so can't say for sure if thats the issue here or not.

In any case, the best advice I can give you is: go check out the Sammy in a good setting and then make a judgement.

Goodluck.

I have the blue and red snow in the black areas on my 6178 (june build)via both component inputs. I have tried all sources (DVD, Sat, AV) with different component cables and the results are the same. I don't have this issue when using coax straight to the tv so I am guessing the inputs are bad. I am waiting for the Mits to come in and see if I stay with Samsung or make a change.

Sounds like Samsung may be having problems with their non-volatile memory. I read a few pages back about a 'similar' incident (unable to keep updated settings), the issue you mention, and some folks stating DNIe 'on' within the SM will not hold/save this setting upon exiting then reentering SM.

Yep, that's what I think it is as well. It's like something get's defaulted when you pick movie mode and then switches off later on. Definately needs fixed as it makes it impossible to calibrate.

I thought we had it on good authority that the VGA port would support 1080p. Any computer output will be progressive and not interlaced so this statement would infer that maybe 720p was the max resolution input for the VGA port. I don't think so. I certainly hope this in not true. I was really counting on being able to hook up a PS3 to the VGA port and use it for true 1080p games. Am I dreaming? Do I have to wait yet another year?

Page 130 of the HL-R6168W Owners Manual states under the PC Display "The Optimal Resolution is 1920 x 1080 @ 60Hz" which I believe is 1080P.

P.S. My model was produced in Korea not Mexico in July 2005. This might make a difference.

Why is that?

Any chance you could take a digital photo and post it that shows those DNIe settings in the Picture menu of your TV so we can see what you are seeing?

Edit: Btw, I don't think anyone is playing with you. Its just proving hard to get the absolute facts about the matter because there is some confusion and contradictions in the descriptions. No offense, but your writing style can be a bit hard to follow at times. Also, just because people are asking and stating thattheir TV does not have the same settings does not mean that those people are unhappy with their TVs. I think they would just like to have the ability to control DNIe if possible.
Thanks for the input. Sometimes my writting style is out there, That I agree with because I think faster than I type and also my mind is set on an engineering level, so I am up there. No offense taken. Let me see about getting some photos to you. I am haivng serious problems with my camera. So bare with me.

Why is that?
This is what it is. Samsung TV's are made in Mexico and Korea. The sets that are shipped from Mexico seem to have a problem with the engine. Havent you read all the post about it. The sets that are being shipped from Koera, dont have a problem with the engine. There are many examples from these post that state that their set came from Mexico and the picture Engine is not right. Nothing from the Korean sets, or at least no one is posting them. Maybe the sets are the 1-11% that go bad and not neccessary made in Mexico. Many post are reporting these. I read carefully.

I have a 5668 and am trying to calibrate it with the HDNet Test Pattern. Contrast is not an issue as it appears that no adjustment has a significant effect on contrast. As for brightness, however, in "Standard" mode, no matter what I do I am not able to get the number "10" to appear (which is what needs to happen in order to calibrate brightness). I am able to see the number when in "Movie" mode, just not in Standard mode. Has anyone else tried calibrating with this test pattern? Anyone have any thoughts?

Two weeks ago I was able to get the number 10 while in movie mode for both component and HDMI. Today, while in standard mode, I was unable to bring in the 10 in the HDNet test pattern by adjusting contrast and brightness. I thought this might be related to previously changing gamma to zero in the service menu so I changed the value of gamma back to 2. Changing the value of gamma had little or no effect on my ability to adjust in the 10. I switched from standard mode to movie mode and was once again able to bring in both the zero and the 10 over a component connection. I then switched to HDMI in movie mode and was again unable to dial in the 10 but I’m fairly confident I was able to previously.

edit: added "while in standard mode" to the second sentance.

... also my mind is set on an engineering level, so I am up there. No offense taken. Let me see about getting some photos to you.
More "engineering level" mind work (carefully organized details :)) might help. Your comments regarding DNIe settings keep my head spinning. :o

Samsung TV's are made in Mexico and Korea.
Thanks for that information.

The point of my question was why would DNIe control be different depending on the assembly location?

You can in fact turn the DNIe on and off, also you can turn the Demo DNIe on and off too for the model 88 series only. I know how my Tv's work.

P.S. My model was produced in Korea not Mexico in July 2005. This might make a difference.

Sometimes my writting style is out there, That I agree with because I think faster than I type and also my mind is set on an engineering level, so I am up there. No offense taken. Let me see about getting some photos to you. I am haivng serious problems with my camera. So bare with me.



Stallionre,

Please, with all due respect for your enthusiasm your input is welcome, but when someone needs to take over a forum as you have done with this thread then there is an issue which needs to be addressed.

Since you joined on 8-06-05 you have 373 post, a clear and unchallenged record on this forum. There has been @ 1172 post on this thread by all members since your join date and @252 of the post are yours, all in 11 days. This works out to be @ 23% of the post are yours on this very busy thread. Do you not see an issue here? Even the thread owner can’t compare. Please think about this.

Sincerely

Someone help me find the Firmware release info on my 5668. I have a new one coming (sts) anywhere from 30 minutes from now until I get bored of waiting! Thanks

I searched the SM and learned a lot about nothing and couldn't find it there.

I'm in a quandary here guys.

My family room is 16 x 28. Viewing distance is 15 feet on average. It's not a very bright room so I don't belive I'll have problems with reflections.

I can't decide which set is best for my room. I'm leaning toward the 7178 but can't decide if the extra $1200 over the 6768 is worth the price!

Also, after checking the spec sheet on brightness is see the 71 is 500 cd/m and the 67 is 550 cd/m. I looked at a Sony Quaila and noted that it was very bright, I wonder how the 71 will compare to the Sony?

Since no one has seen either model I think I'll wait until they are on the street and hope to still have time to get in on the power buy.

Any thoughts?

Hal..

Good question.

I think that anytime you spend more than $100 per inch for additional screen size, it becomes very subjectivey as to if its worth it to you. When you're paying $300 for each extra inch, then its pretty clear that its out of line.

Besides, 67" at 15 feet is going to be just fine and I seriously doubt that the extra 4" would even be noticable.

I searched the SM and learned a lot about nothing and couldn't find it there.
With all the previous models (HLM, HLN, HLP) the firmware version was at the bottom of the main "SM" menu screen.

With all the previous models (HLM, HLN, HLP) the firmware version was at the bottom of the main "SM" menu screen.

I took a picture of that. There were 5 lines and they went like this...
T_EXCAAUSO_8012
2005-06-22
T_DTVUCOM5_8076
T_SCALER_0102
T_EXCAAUS1_0097

Any of that the Firmware number?

Also. in the DNIE area, it was set to off. I assume that is what everyone is checking on at this time...correct? Not the one in the TV menu, but the one in the SM.

HLR5078XAA (mexico edition) on Samsung stand (so its level) , ALL sources

My hoizontal geometry is off atleast an 1/8 of an inch from one side of the screen to the other. This is my 2nd set, with the same problem.

I've been offered to have a tech come out and replace the engine, but this may be a problem with the mirrors?

Any suggestions?

BTW: A Samsung rep said the DNie is always on (78 series). He also stated the TV will not be able to accept a 1080p signal through ANY input. It will only upconvert to 1080p.

My first set is off 1/4 inch between the right and left. If the second set is no more than 1/8 off, I will keep it since that is much less noticeable. It is a major repair to correct it, and it's easier to just replace the light engine. I'm hoping the second set will be perfect and have no tilt or any other problems. Otherwise I'm SOL since I'm scheduled to have it calibrated on Sep8. That should give me just enough time to burn in the set if I receive it next Tuesday.

I took a picture of that. There were 5 lines and they went like this...
T_EXCAAUSO_8012
2005-06-22
T_DTVUCOM5_8076
T_SCALER_0102
T_EXCAAUS1_0097

Any of that the Firware number?
On my HLP set the full firmware number looks like this.

T_ATLNUS_1035

Maybe you 1080p folks have four separate firmware programs. :eek:

Also. in the DNIE area, it was set to off. I assume that is what everyone is checking on at this time...correct? Not the one in the TV menu, but the one in the SM.
Some are, but things are so confusing at this point that I would leave that setting alone until a coherent solution is determined.

On my HLP set the full firmware number looks like this.

T_ATLNUS_1035

Maybe you 1080p folks have four separate firmware programs. :eek:

Also. in the DNIE area, it was set to off. I assume that is what everyone is checking on at this time...correct? Not the one in the TV menu, but the one in the SM.[/QUOTE]
Some are and things are so confusing at this point that I would leave that setting alone until a coherent solution is determined.[/QUOTE]

I am preparing to unplug this one and put it into the box for its departure. Thought I would puruse the SM to see what was in there. Didn't change anything except Gamma to see what it would do. It defaults to 2 and says Video. 1 is graphic and 0 say's film, and 3 is linear and really bright, ugly picture. Everyone else seen names next to each of the settings? If you go up, 4 is OEM and looks like 2 and these keep on going with no change.

Rabid -

Can you post the report from the SypderTV analysis?

Unfortunately, it's on my brother's laptop that I borrowed for the calibration :(

The report itself was a bit disappointing, in that it basically just tells you what the settings should be.

More interesting were the graphs that were viewable during the calibration process. I will see if I can find a way to capture these.

One more thing I noted from the SpyderTV calibration:

Black Luminance: 0.076 cd/m2

White Luminance: 157.562 cd/m2

Can someone more knowledgable than me translate what this means?

I sold all my last years line up to my neighbor and friends for $3,000.00. They paid for my new line up now, at least 50% of it. All I have is this years new Line up and love them both. The 88 does work differently than the 78. So I am correct about the DNIe feature.

You can in fact turn the DNIe on and off, also you can turn the Demo DNIe on and off too for the model 88 series only. I know how my Tv's work.

P.S. My model was produced in Korea not Mexico in July 2005. This might make a difference.

Thanks anyway.

Could you post a picture of the 88 screen with the option to turn DNIe off? I think it would help others determine whether they have the same feature.

I am getting tired of (almost) everyone pussy-footing around stallionRe. It's clear that his facts often get crossed and his spelling/grammar is atrocious. If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck....well you know.

It takes a lot to get me to post, but I'm tired of wading through 3 pages of crap for one good post. Stallion: Do us all a favor and don't post again until you have a screen shot of a DNIe on/off option. Once you do so, I will promptly stick my foot in my mouth. I really have my money on the fact that you won't though.


--Mark

FLAPilot,

I got my replacement set at 2:15PM today. Did I win? Do I get a prize? :D :D :D

It sounds like you're at home. I had to go home to accept the delivery and give them the old set, so my new one's still in the box. You'll probably beat me in having your new one all set up.

One more thing I noted from the SpyderTV calibration:

Black Luminance: 0.076 cd/m2

White Luminance: 157.562 cd/m2

Can someone more knowledgable than me translate what this means?

157.562/0.076 = 2073. Contrast Ratio

I am getting tired of (almost) everyone pussy-footing around stallionRe. It's clear that his facts often get crossed and his spelling/grammar is atrocious. If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck....well you know.

It takes a lot to get me to post, but I'm tired of wading through 3 pages of crap for one good post. Stallion: Do us all a favor and don't post again until you have a screen shot of a DNIe on/off option. Once you do so, I will promptly stick my foot in my mouth. I really have my money on the fact that you won't though.


--Mark

:rolleyes: well put :rolleyes:

I have tried to avoid saying that. I want to see a picture of DNIe On/Off option (not the demo). Otherwise, I refuse to believe that the option exists.

FLAPilot,

I got my replacement set at 2:15PM today. Did I win? Do I get a prize? :D :D :D

It sounds like you're at home. I had to go home to accept the delivery and give them the old set, so my new one's still in the box. You'll probably beat me in having your new one all set up.

You WIN! I am still waiting...at home. We are night flying and I got off (sts) late last night and will forego the four-letter word today in favor of waiting on the TV! I am going ahead and packing up the TV now so I can take my two boys swimming in the fine Florida sun.

Hope to hear good words from you like Ekans on the new set. Let us know how it goes as I will also.

My first set is off 1/4 inch between the right and left. If the second set is no more than 1/8 off, I will keep it since that is much less noticeable. It is a major repair to correct it, and it's easier to just replace the light engine. I'm hoping the second set will be perfect and have no tilt or any other problems. Otherwise I'm SOL since I'm scheduled to have it calibrated on Sep8. That should give me just enough time to burn in the set if I receive it next Tuesday.
My 5678 is also 1/4" off on right side. And yes, Made in Mexico :(

I am waiting for my 2nd set, hopefully it is better. Too much $$$$ to settle for a jacked up picture :mad:

Here are my settings. I also changed Gamma with no problem, but DNIe was set to On twice, but keeps going back to Off setting:

T_EXCAAUS0_8015
2005_07_16
T_DTVUCOM5_8076
T_SCALER_0102
T_EXCAAUS1_0097

I took a picture of that. There were 5 lines and they went like this...
T_EXCAAUSO_8012
2005-06-22
T_DTVUCOM5_8076
T_SCALER_0102
T_EXCAAUS1_0097

Any of that the Firmware number?

Also. in the DNIE area, it was set to off. I assume that is what everyone is checking on at this time...correct? Not the one in the TV menu, but the one in the SM.

Check out post 2407 from schaffer970:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6014098&&#post6014098

T_EXCAAUSO_8012 is the firmware release.

And I explained it 10 pages forward from you. :p People might of missed yours, so they could see mine. :D


I don't think to many would miss yours.

Clorox,

The delivery Co. just called, they are 15 minutes out. Looks you got me by an hour or so! See the TVA thread for my concerns...no liftgate, one delivery guy, etc.

I am getting tired of (almost) everyone pussy-footing around stallionRe. It's clear that his facts often get crossed and his spelling/grammar is atrocious. If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck....well you know.


Agreed. I think it's clear he is not an owner. Luckily, the Ignore feature of this forum works well -- and works even better if no one falls for his bait.

My 5678 finally arrived last night. The whole process of ordering on line and arranging receipt from the shipper was well worth the money I saved. My only mistake was uncrating the package in the house. Spent nearly 2 hours cleaning our newly installed carpet. Hopefully those still waiting for there new Sammy will not make the same mistake. Yet, I would encourage those contemplating new purchases not to rule out the e-retailers. There is ample opportunity to save $$$$. Just pick a reputable e-retailer.

Now to my new Sammy. After building the stand and attaching all the cords and wires for my cable DVR I turned the set on. The first picture was of a SD signal. Not quite what I was hoping for, but still an acceptable picture. Wife was starting to question whether the money I spent was worth it. Then after messing with various setting and options the tuner found its way to an HD signal. All I can say is WOW!!!!!. The wife shouted "whatever you did don't mess with the TV anymore". My wife and I were stunned at the picture quality. My wife and I spent the next 2 hours just watching some PBS story on India just admiring our new TV.

Can hardly wait to play some more with the TV later tonight. I am rather new to this technology so I am sure I will have many questions to post in the near future.

All...just got my replacement 5668 from TVA. The delivery guy was great. He new it was Threshold and new I had trouble. He helped me get the TV in the foyer and I started taking the outside box off to check for damage. He helped and then said "where does it go?" He helped me get it in and then held it until I could get all connections made. We went through all inputs (AVI, Component, HDMI) and all worked as advertised. That is all I've done. He earned a tip versus the gorilla who threw it off the donkey.

I can now give a report (after swimming) on how the component vs HDMI look since I have both hooked up to my 942 HD DVR. Will finally get to see the HD 950 as well.

Just because DNIe is shown as being off in the SM and won't stick in the on position does not necessarily mean that DNIe is actually off. It may be that its just the display of the setting that is wrong.


If you toggle the setting on and off while in the SM, you can see a small difference in picture quality especially with white lines on a dark field ("on" is less washed out but has too much edge enhancement, in my opinion). I think this matches what we should expect from DNIe, right? Anyway, I'm not 100% sure but the picture in normal operation seems to match the picture in the SM when the DNIe setting is "off".

157.562/0.076 = 2073. Contrast Ratio

Thanks for clarifying that. How does this measure-up in a real-world scenario?

I currently have a Denon 1804 AVR and want to upgrade to a 7.1 unit with Audio Delay feature (to fix my lip synch issues)

Also, it would be nice to find unit with automatic audio leveling - my SA8300 varies a lot on channel volumes, pretty obnoxious actually.

I only use it for audio, and not video switching. Was curious which model was best bang for the buck out there in the owner's opinion.

Thanks!

As software engineer this is how I'm seeing the DNIe setting in the SM...

Just because DNIe is shown as being off in the SM and won't stick in the on position does not necessarily mean that DNIe is actually off. It may be that its just the display of the setting that is wrong.

The general consensus (aside from any issues regarding settings in the Picture for turning DNIe and/or DNIe Demo on/off) based on the picture displayed seems to be that DNIe is always ON. Samsung have apparently also told several people that DNIe is always ON. I doubt they are expecting to check the setting in the SM.

So, if DNIe is always on this may be why the option in the menu won't change state. It shows as off when in reality it is on. So, when you change it to on there is no apparent actual change in state as far as the firmware is concerned, so the firmware does not change it, so it stays on (but still displays as off).

I'm guessing that someone goofed in the firmware and is showing DNIe is the opposite state to what it really is and because it was designed to be always on then it can't be changed.

Are you getting my drift?

I understand what you're saying, and it would make sense if the picture downgraded when toggled to on. However, it clearly shows enhancement when in the "on" state.

HLR5078XAA (mexico edition) on Samsung stand (so its level) , ALL sources

My hoizontal geometry is off atleast an 1/8 of an inch from one side of the screen to the other. This is my 2nd set, with the same problem.

I've been offered to have a tech come out and replace the engine, but this may be a problem with the mirrors?

Any suggestions?

BTW: A Samsung rep said the DNie is always on (78 series). He also stated the TV will not be able to accept a 1080p signal through ANY input. It will only upconvert to 1080p.
I have a tech trying to fix that right now. Maybe in an hour I can give you a report.

Far worse though is my overscan. Its 1 inch on the bottom. The tech is afraid to touch it. It seems right on the left and top (or it was until the tech just raised the picture to split the overscan difference :mad: ). I think I have 1/2 inch on the right. I am basing this on the VE disk test patterns. I am pretty sure I will be contacting SS in the next hour or so.

I currently have a Denon 1804 AVR and want to upgrade to a 7.1 unit with Audio Delay feature (to fix my lip synch issues)

Also, it would be nice to find unit with automatic audio leveling - my SA8300 varies a lot on channel volumes, pretty obnoxious actually.

I only use it for audio, and not video switching. Was curious which model was best bang for the buck out there in the owner's opinion.

Thanks!

I own the Denon 4806, and I'm very happy with it. The Audessy multi-EQ software built in it is incredible. It's kinda pricey however with an MSRP of $3499

Then SCREW all of you, if you dont like my help. You are all losers anyway, I am off this forum and you guys can play your stupid little ****IN game. You are the ducksm I am not, look at all your post, they all suck and quack to you to!!!! My spelling is good, your spelling is not all that. So before you point the finger at someone else, why dont you look at yourself.

NO WONDER WHY WESTA6969 DOESNT LIKE ANYONE HERE, I DONT BLAME HIM.

BYE FOR LIFE!!!!

You got your wish, so good luck with your TVS that dont work like mine. HA HA children!!!

None of you deserve a picture. You guys really need to get a life and be more professional and truthful. I had my last straw and that was it, You all pissed me off.

FYI: MY DNIE CAN BE TURNED ON AND OFF, NOT JUST THE DEMO, BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOO ONE CAN ACCEPT THAT SO I CAN SEE WHAT LITTLE MINDS YOU ALL HAVE. WHY DONT YOU ALL CRAWL INTO YOUR LITTLE HOLES AND DIE!!
MOST OF THE PEOPLE ON THIS FORUM IS PRETTY DUMB, THIS IS EVIDENT TO ME NOW.

Happy life to all.

Sincerely.

uh-oh...this will surely crash the server :D

I have a tech trying to fix that right now. Maybe in an hour I can give you a report.

Far worse though is my overscan. Its 1 inch on the bottom. The tech is afraid to touch it. It seems right on the left and top (or it was until the tech just raised the picture to split the overscan difference :mad: ). I think I have 1/2 inch on the right. I am basing this on the VE disk test patterns. I am pretty sure I will be contacting SS in the next hour or so.
Well after 2 hours my tv is probably worse than before. I still have the severe overscan but now its balanced from vertical.

My angular alignment from left to right went from 3/16 of an inch to 3/8. The tech left frustrated and ordered me a new light engine. Right :rolleyes:

Since I can still watch my TV I can put up with this for a bit. I would rather wait for SS to get this straightened out on somebody elses time.

Well after 2 hours my tv is probably worse than before. I still have the severe overscan but now its balanced from vertical.

My angular alignment from left to right went from 3/16 of an inch to 3/8. The tech left frustrated and ordered me a new light engine. Right :rolleyes:

Since I can still watch my TV I can put up with this for a bit. I would rather wait for SS to get this straightened out on somebody elses time.

Keep us posted Chris. I'm interested in how well SS takes care of these kinds of issues.

Sorry you're having trouble :(

Rick

Then SCREW all of you, if you dont like my help. You are all losers anyway, I am off this forum and you guys can play your stupid little ****IN game. You are the ducksm I am not, look at all your post, they all suck and quack to you to!!!! My spelling is good, your spelling is not all that. So before you point the finger at someone else, why dont you look at yourself.

NO WONDER WHY WESTA6969 DOESNT LIKE ANYONE HERE, I DONT BLAME HIM.

BYE FOR LIFE!!!!

You got your wish, so good luck with your TVS that dont work like mine. HA HA children!!!

None of you deserve a picture. You guys really need to get a life and be more professional and truthful. I had my last straw and that was it, You all pissed me off.

FYI: MY DNIE CAN BE TURNED ON AND OFF, NOT JUST THE DEMO, BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOO ONE CAN ACCEPT THAT SO I CAN SEE WHAT LITTLE MINDS YOU ALL HAVE. WHY DONT YOU ALL CRAWL INTO YOUR LITTLE HOLES AND DIE!!
MOST OF THE PEOPLE ON THIS FORUM IS PRETTY DUMB, THIS IS EVIDENT TO ME NOW.

Happy life to all.

Sincerely.

Are you serious? You gotta be just messing with us, right?

Does anyone know if there is more to the picture mode than what can be changed in the menu? I've been playing around with the picture settings some more and comparing them to the factory defaults for the dynamic, standard, movie modes. However, I changed all my custom setting numbers to mimic those of movie mode and switched back and forth between the two. I noticed that the image I was viewing did not look the same, even though the settings are.

I am probably sounding like an idiot :o , but I just got my Samsung HL-R5678W last week and can not figure out where to get a VGA cable to connect the TV to my PC. Every one I find is a VGA male to female cable and no male-to-male that seems to be needed for the connection. Am I missing something here, or am I looking for the wrong cable, or what? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Then SCREW all of you, if you dont like my help. You are all losers anyway, I am off this forum and you guys can play your stupid little ****IN game. You are the ducksm I am not, look at all your post, they all suck and quack to you to!!!! My spelling is good, your spelling is not all that. So before you point the finger at someone else, why dont you look at yourself.

NO WONDER WHY WESTA6969 DOESNT LIKE ANYONE HERE, I DONT BLAME HIM.

BYE FOR LIFE!!!!

You got your wish, so good luck with your TVS that dont work like mine. HA HA children!!!

None of you deserve a picture. You guys really need to get a life and be more professional and truthful. I had my last straw and that was it, You all pissed me off.

FYI: MY DNIE CAN BE TURNED ON AND OFF, NOT JUST THE DEMO, BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOO ONE CAN ACCEPT THAT SO I CAN SEE WHAT LITTLE MINDS YOU ALL HAVE. WHY DONT YOU ALL CRAWL INTO YOUR LITTLE HOLES AND DIE!!
MOST OF THE PEOPLE ON THIS FORUM IS PRETTY DUMB, THIS IS EVIDENT TO ME NOW.

Happy life to all.

Sincerely.

Huh??? I must have missed something. :confused:

Huh??? I must have missed something. :confused:
There was a request (slightly impolite) asking for proof the there was a DNIe switch on "Stallion's" Korean build Samsung TV. That request seems to have been rejected. :cool:

We might have missed the possibility that "Stallion" is much younger than one might have thought from his reported home entertainment budget.

I am probably sounding like an idiot :o , but I just got my Samsung HL-R5678W last week and can not figure out where to get a VGA cable to connect the TV to my PC. Every one I find is a VGA male to female cable and no male-to-male that seems to be needed for the connection. Am I missing something here, or am I looking for the wrong cable, or what? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
You can get a cable from RAM electronics. Go to powerbuy section for the discount info. That is where I got my male to male VGA cable but before I knew there was a discount for AVS members.

I am probably sounding like an idiot :o , but I just got my Samsung HL-R5678W last week and can not figure out where to get a VGA cable to connect the TV to my PC. Every one I find is a VGA male to female cable and no male-to-male that seems to be needed for the connection. Am I missing something here, or am I looking for the wrong cable, or what? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I had an expensive male-male VGA cable from RAM but it didn't work correctly with my 6168W. I returned it and purchased a cheap $15 cable from our local PC store.

I floated the center channel (AudioCenter One) using a Sanus Milano 13B. It's depth is perfect for the 6168. My center weights around 25 pounds but the stand holds it very easily. It sits around an inch behind the tv with the stand pushed against the wall.

Thanks for the idea. I was looking for a solution to my center channel problem. This will work perfectly. I ordered one and expect it on Friday. Thanks again. The picture was very helpful.

I am not as young as you may think. I have two degrees in different fileds, many years of good solid technical experience, Coast Guard training and I also have traveled the world and more money than most of you on this forum. What have you done?

I think that more people on this forum are younger than me. You might have mistaken me. I had good intentions until you all attacked me. I feel just like Westa6969 does.

You people don't really want to learn, but to criticize. No all people are like this on this forum, You know who you are.

Enjoy!!!

Then SCREW all of you, if you dont like my help. You are all losers anyway, I am off this forum and you guys can play your stupid little FUCIN game. You are the ducks. I am not, look at all your post, they all suck and quack to you to!!!! My spelling is good, your spelling is not all that. So before you point the finger at someone else, why dont you look at yourself.

NO WONDER WHY WESTA6969 DOESNT LIKE ANYONE HERE, I DONT BLAME HIM.

BYE FOR LIFE!!!!

You got your wish, so good luck with your TVS that dont work like mine. HA HA children!!!

None of you deserve a picture. You guys really need to get a life and be more professional and truthful. I had my last straw and that was it, You all pissed me off.

FYI: MY DNIE CAN BE TURNED ON AND OFF, NOT JUST THE DEMO, BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOO ONE CAN ACCEPT THAT SO I CAN SEE WHAT LITTLE MINDS YOU ALL HAVE. WHY DONT YOU ALL CRAWL INTO YOUR LITTLE HOLES AND DIE!!
MOST OF THE PEOPLE ON THIS FORUM IS PRETTY DUMB, THIS IS EVIDENT TO ME NOW.

Happy life to all.

Sincerely.

ROFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ... the tears are streaming and I think I cracked a rib. :eek:

I think someone takes himself WAAAAY to seriously and has a very thin skin (so much for water off a duck's back, to continue his duck fetish, of course) and childish is the pot calling the kettle black.
Guess the introduction to forum etiquette edification was the last straw ... c'est la vie.

HLR5078XAA (mexico edition) on Samsung stand (so its level) , ALL sources

My hoizontal geometry is off atleast an 1/8 of an inch from one side of the screen to the other. This is my 2nd set, with the same problem.

I've been offered to have a tech come out and replace the engine, but this may be a problem with the mirrors?No, not the mirrors. The tilt is an optics alignment problem.

The light engine is an entire assembly that comes with the DMD board (DLP chip), lamp, ballast, color-wheel, and all the optics. These have to be factory pre-aligned. It is possible that one of Samsung's production lines has a bad alignment jig (fixture), therefore all the light-engines coming off that line are being mis-aligned. Tilt is usually corrected by moving the DMD board relative to the lens, but (of course) the lens has to be correctly aligned first.

Gary

Are you serious? You gotta be just messing with us, right?

Hopefully not.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6047767&&#post6047767

He's also been chatty in the "Samsung 2005 DLP HDTV Discussion --- HLRxxxxW Models" thread.


So just to put something more on topic - what's the general feel for SD picture quality? This is about the only thing holding me back right now as there is still a ton of SD content that I'll be watching. It seems that for a lot of the owners, this is their first HDTV and get caught up in that picture (which is awesome from the few times I've viewed it so far). Are people just not watching any SD or are your expectations already set that it's just not going to compare with a decent CRT?

Everyone just chill...let it go.

Hopefully not.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6047767&&#post6047767

He's also been chatty in the "Samsung 2005 DLP HDTV Discussion --- HLRxxxxW Models" thread.


So just to put something more on topic - what's the general feel for SD picture quality? This is about the only thing holding me back right now as there is still a ton of SD content that I'll be watching. It seems that for a lot of the owners, this is their first HDTV and get caught up in that picture (which is awesome from the few times I've viewed it so far). Are people just not watching any SD or are your expectations already set that it's just not going to compare with a decent CRT?

Derek,

Thank you for the TV question! SD quality was my number one concern and I am pleasantly surprised in a good way. I have Dish with a 942 and only old SD is poor. Again happy with SD and HD is incredible.

No, not the mirrors. The tilt is an optics alignment problem.

The light engine is an entire assembly that comes with the DMD board (DLP chip), lamp, ballast, color-wheel, and all the optics. These have to be factory pre-aligned. It is possible that one of Samsung's production lines has a bad alignment jig (fixture), therefore all the light-engines coming off that line are being mis-aligned. Tilt is usually corrected by moving the DMD board relative to the lens, but (of course) the lens has to be correctly aligned first.

Gary

Thanks for the explanation Gary. Do you know if this can be corrected in the field? I have a 2nd set coming too, and am not expecting it to be much different based on the reports. I would much rather have the the DMD board aligned if possible.

George

So just to put something more on topic - what's the general feel for SD picture quality? This is about the only thing holding me back right now as there is still a ton of SD content that I'll be watching. It seems that for a lot of the owners, this is their first HDTV and get caught up in that picture (which is awesome from the few times I've viewed it so far). Are people just not watching any SD or are your expectations already set that it's just not going to compare with a decent CRT?

I have multiple HT's in my home. One of them is a higher-end 480p system that is optimized for SD. So I have a good baseline for comparison to my 5668. I will go out on a limb here ... and state that SD is surprisingly nice. It varies by signal quality. So if you have a sharp, attractive picture on your current TV, it will be fine on the new 1080p. If you have poor signal, than the 1080p will magnify this effect.

You have at least three ways to tune SD channels. Internal tuner, CableCard, and external STB. The internal tuners do a nice job. In addition, you can 'fine tune' the channels on the internal tuner (with setting memory). NICE. Your best bet in optimizing SD is to start with the internal tuners and CableCard.

I'm getting good results with analog cable SD and digital SD. Look at your favorite channels CAREFULLY, if they are good on your current TV, than they will be fine on the new 1080p

[NOTE: My tests were done with a Comcast Motorola 6412 DVR and Comcast Digital Cable w/ HD]

I am probably sounding like an idiot :o , but I just got my Samsung HL-R5678W last week and can not figure out where to get a VGA cable to connect the TV to my PC. Every one I find is a VGA male to female cable and no male-to-male that seems to be needed for the connection. Am I missing something here, or am I looking for the wrong cable, or what? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

As alreay posted, what you should be looking for is a monitor cable, the male to female cable is an extension cable. I got one from Office Max for pretty cheap.

I have a 5668.
Question for those of you on Comcast cable in the SF East Bay area (or elsewhere)....
Do you get TV Guide info for the HD channels? I get the channel info for the SD channels but not for the HD channels. I thought it was due to lag in downloading the data but I have had the TV now for 2 weeks.

The other issue I have is that the Discovery HD picture via the built-in tuner breaks up every couple of seconds, whereas the same channel via the comcast HD box is perfect. All the other channels are fine on the built-in tuner

Thanks for the explanation Gary. Do you know if this can be corrected in the field? I have a 2nd set coming too, and am not expecting it to be much different based on the reports. I would much rather have the the DMD board aligned if possible.Yes, alignment can be corrected in the field, unless the light-engine's chassis was mis-drilled or something crazy (causing permanent mis-alignment).

To add to the soup, though, the lens may need to be refocused after such an adjustment. That's a 2-man task, unless the tech is very adept with a mirror!

Gary

I see your B&W center BELOW the TV, which is exactly where my B&W center is. (Top of my previous TV could support it, but not on my 5678.) But then the highs are blocked by feet, popcorn, Scotch, etc., etc.

Are you going to move your center to the top? If so, how? (The floating TV stand idea that I've seen suggested in this thread seems like a good idea to me.)

Tdmomega, this is where I'll be getting mine (http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10201&style=); amazingly inexpensive but the conventional wisdom around here shows the "cheaper" cables are working best. It seems they leave some 'headroom' for two-way communication between the set and the computer.

I am not as young as you may think. I have two degrees in different fileds, many years of good solid technical experience, Coast Guard training and I also have traveled the world and more money than most of you on this forum. What have you done?

I think that more people on this forum are younger than me. You might have mistaken me. I had good intentions until you all attacked me. I feel just like Westa6969 does.

You people don't really want to learn, but to criticize. No all people are like this on this forum, You know who you are.

Enjoy!!!

I'd be willing to bet that one of those degrees isn't English Literature or grammar school spelling either.

Neither is required to post here. However, having multiple (presumably college) degrees certainly implies at least a minimum of writing experience. I know I had to write a great deal in college.

The issue here is one of credibility. You claim to have two of these sets when everyone else is just trying to get one. That alone isn't enough to cause too much concern.

At times your posts seem intelligent and insightful. At other times they seem child like.

You claim to have bought your TVs from Vanns. I regularly go to the Vanns site to see if they have 'em. Most all of Samsung 1080P sets have been and continue to be on "backorder". That alone isn't much cause for concern, you could just be one of the lucky Vanns customers.

You bought a 78 model and don't miss many opportunities to remind everyone that you have one of the "upgraded" models. Not in so many words, but I can read between the lines.

You joined this forum a week after I did and have 10 times as many posts. On other forums I belong you'd be called a post whore. Those are people trying to legitimize themselves by getting a high post count in a very short time. That usually doesn't work.

You have this brand new kick ash TV(s) and high dollar audio receiver, yet you seem to spend more time here giving other people dubious advice than just shutting up and watching your new TV. Then you want to know why I want to use a receiver for HD OTA audio.

Your TV can do things that no one elses can. You claim that it's because it's the deluxe model.

You claim to have sold all of last years models stuff to finance half of this years stuff. You claim to have a multi thousand dollar audio receiver, yet can't seem to get your digital camera working.

You claim to make a lot of money. If you're buying all the things you claim, you certainly do have a lot of money. If you have so much money, why don't you stroll down to your local WalMart or other department store and get a cheap digital camera to prove that your TV can do things that everyone elses can't.

You're now adding your comments to the powerbuy thread where frankly, you have no business because you neither purchased your TV from TVA nor do you intend to purchase another TV from TVA.

Plus more that I'm sure I've forgotten.

All this add up to someone that can't be believed.

If I had to guess, based on my experience on the many forum I belong, I'd guess this: You are a young teenage male wishing you had one of these TVs and all the other things you claim to have. You have too much time on your hands and enjoy coming here trying to impress everyone.

The simple solution is this. Get the picture everyone is waiting for. If you can. Then, I personally will eat dirt and I'm sure a lot of other people 'round here will too.

P.S. I was put off by you from the very beginning by your forum handle. Seems child like. But hey, whatever impresses the 14 year old little girls.

I see your B&W center BELOW the TV, which is exactly where my B&W center is. (Top of my previous TV could support it, but not on my 5678.) But then the highs are blocked by feet, popcorn, Scotch, etc., etc.

Are you going to move your center to the top? If so, how? (The floating TV stand idea that I've seen suggested in this thread seems like a good idea to me.)

At the advice of someone else in this forum I used the Omnimount CCH1. I had to move the rear legs up toward the front, but this was easy to do.

I have a 5668.
Question for those of you on Comcast cable in the SF East Bay area (or elsewhere)....
Do you get TV Guide info for the HD channels? I get the channel info for the SD channels but not for the HD channels. I thought it was due to lag in downloading the data but I have had the TV now for 2 weeks.

I have Comcast in Santa Clara (no Cable Card, no cable box) and I see the same thing. I get TV Guide info for OTA digital channels, though. I assume it will work if you get a Cable Card.

The other issue I have is that the Discovery HD picture via the built-in tuner breaks up every couple of seconds, whereas the same channel via the comcast HD box is perfect. All the other channels are fine on the built-in tuner

I see it most on DiscoveryHD but I do see it occasionally on the other digital cable channels and have yet to see it on digital OTA channels. My HTPC tuner seems to have less breakups but they're still there, which makes me think it's a signal integrity issue (my cable is split six ways) and the Samsung tuner is more sensitive to problems.

I've noticed that the bottom of the display on my 6168W is somewhat curved. There is a slight rise (about 1/8") along the far right 6" and a more noticable rise (about 1/4") along the far left 6". The left corner is the one that caught my attention when scrolling text (e.g. stock quotes on CNBC) leave the screen, they appear to go over a hump. It's also noticable on my HTPC desktop - more of the taskbar/start button is visible than in the center of the screen. Is this something that is adjustable? I have called Samsung support but they don't have a service center in my area but are working on it.

Thanks, Charlvit, that was certainly a ringing endorsement. I was particularly struck by your comment re picture quality at factory default settings, since I had read so much indicating that expensive IFS in-home calibration (or at least do-it-yourself calibration with an AVIA Disc) would be a worthwhile investment.
How do the non-HD inputs such as local news programs look? I have seen comments saying that on some HD sets they really look bad.

Jack123
In previous HD sets the diffference between HD and nonHD was dramatic.

In the 5678 1080p set, non-HD channels look very good and a significant improvement compared to my previous 720p Samsung, yet not as great as HD (obviously).

Even though I am an early adopter and an audiovideophile, I still use component video connections because HDMI technology has not 'matured' enough.

One of my friends (an AV expert) changed some of the picture settings on the 5678 yesterday, however, after he left I soon changed everything back to factory default settings!

Why? I believe it is best to let the set break-in well and only then try to tweak any settings.

According to Samsung, DNIe has got six (IIRC) enhancements (motion, contrast, detail, color, etc) . Here is a presentation for your viewing enjoyment...
http://product.samsung.com/dnie

do they have an actual video capture, or is it just the Flash demo? I kinda doubt it works as well in reality, does it?

I am getting tired of (almost) everyone pussy-footing around stallionRe. It's clear that his facts often get crossed and his spelling/grammar is atrocious. If it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck....well you know.

It takes a lot to get me to post, but I'm tired of wading through 3 pages of crap for one good post. Stallion: Do us all a favor and don't post again until you have a screen shot of a DNIe on/off option. Once you do so, I will promptly stick my foot in my mouth. I really have my money on the fact that you won't though.


Then SCREW all of you, if you dont like my help. You are all losers anyway, I am off this forum and you guys can play your stupid little FUCIN game. You are the ducks. I am not, look at all your post, they all suck and quack to you to!!!! My spelling is good, your spelling is not all that. So before you point the finger at someone else, why dont you look at yourself.

NO WONDER WHY WESTA6969 DOESNT LIKE ANYONE HERE, I DONT BLAME HIM.

BYE FOR LIFE!!!!

You got your wish, so good luck with your TVS that dont work like mine. HA HA children!!!

None of you deserve a picture. You guys really need to get a life and be more professional and truthful. I had my last straw and that was it, You all pissed me off.

FYI: MY DNIE CAN BE TURNED ON AND OFF, NOT JUST THE DEMO, BUT NOOOOOOOOOOOO ONE CAN ACCEPT THAT SO I CAN SEE WHAT LITTLE MINDS YOU ALL HAVE. WHY DONT YOU ALL CRAWL INTO YOUR LITTLE HOLES AND DIE!!
MOST OF THE PEOPLE ON THIS FORUM IS PRETTY DUMB, THIS IS EVIDENT TO ME NOW.

Happy life to all.

Sincerely.


Gentlemen! Gentlemen! Let's not get our pocket protectors all twisted in a knot!

seems as if there's been quite a few complaints about unpacking the tv inside.

why is there so much cleanup involved with unpacking the tv in the house? styrofoam gets everywhere? or is there something that actually gets the carpet dirty?

i can't figure out what would take 2 hours to clean up?!?!

I've noticed that the bottom of the display on my 6168W is somewhat curved. There is a slight rise (about 1/8") along the far right 6" and a more noticable rise (about 1/4") along the far left 6". The left corner is the one that caught my attention when scrolling text (e.g. stock quotes on CNBC) leave the screen, they appear to go over a hump. It's also noticable on my HTPC desktop - more of the taskbar/start button is visible than in the center of the screen. Is this something that is adjustable? I have called Samsung support but they don't have a service center in my area but are working on it.Whoa! That sounds weird. It's unlikely to be a DMD/lens issue... perhaps a bit of mirror warpage (right behind the screen).

Gary

WOW...

I just got off of the phone with Samsung trying to get them to log the issue of black levels not being consistent when I switch inputs or switch from movie to another mode and back and all I can say is ...

That was painfull. First the customer support guy explained to me that as soon as I touch the movie mode, it's called custom? We went around and around for a minute or two on this until he asked me if needed anything else. I said I needed the issue corrected regardless of what he called the mode. So he asked me if the problem occured on the other inputs. I said it only happened on the "digital" inputs and not the component. He then went into explaining to me how the component input was also "digital" to which I explained him as clearly as I could that it is NOT digital even if it does carry "HD" Finally he looked up the details on the firmware and told me that there was not any updated firmware that might fix the issue so I was out of luck.

In the end, he finally gave up and logged my issue but....we will see if it get's logged. I guess I will have to call back to verify that the issue was logged.

Arghh. Ok, done venting.

Whoa! That sounds weird. It's unlikely to be a DMD/lens issue... perhaps a bit of mirror warpage (right behind the screen).

Gary

Mirror warpage doesn't sound healthy :) I would hate to have to exchange the tv for a new one. I finally received a call from a Samsung service center so I should know how to proceed in the next day or two. Thanks for the reply Gary.

I just received the 5688 model and have some questions. I have a Comcast DVR box(6412). When I tried to watch a SD movie from on-demand, I kept seeing a vertical line along the left side of the screen (between the picture and black part). I then set the cable box to strech all SD pictures to fill the whole screen. This solved the line problem, but now the images are somewhat distorted (obviously). Do people commonly strech SD to fill the whole screen? What is that line? Also, in SD with very dark scenes, I see a pixalation effect (like moving pixels-hard to describe). Is this normal. All HD shows are absolutely perfect. The picture is amazing. I just with there were more HD channels.

Thanks.

seems as if there's been quite a few complaints about unpacking the tv inside.

why is there so much cleanup involved with unpacking the tv in the house? styrofoam gets everywhere? or is there something that actually gets the carpet dirty?

i can't figure out what would take 2 hours to clean up?!?!

Dirt from the underside of the box soiling the carpet. It happened to me as well.

My HD950 is sending bitstream audio via optical to my receiver, but since I am connecting via HDMI it is also sending it to the TV which doesn't support this format and even with the internal mute on the TV I keep getting warnings about this. Anyone get this?

I am not as young as you may think. I have two degrees in different fileds, many years of good solid technical experience, Coast Guard training and I also have traveled the world and more money than most of you on this forum. What have you done?

I think that more people on this forum are younger than me. You might have mistaken me. I had good intentions until you all attacked me. I feel just like Westa6969 does.

You people don't really want to learn, but to criticize. No all people are like this on this forum, You know who you are.

Enjoy!!!

I appreciate your contributions to this forum StallionRe. You took time from your personal life to make the measurements on the Samsung stand and post them on this forum. Don't let certain people's opinion of you get you sour on the forum.

Anybody using the G-Link cable (with the IR at the end)? I read the manual and the description is not clear. Is this an IR repeater from the IR receiver in the TV set?

It would be a nice feature if you have components that are hidden.

I had an expensive male-male VGA cable from RAM but it didn't work correctly with my 6168W. I returned it and purchased a cheap $15 cable from our local PC store.

I see what you mean. I just tried the cable I got from RAM that I was going to use with my iscanHD. It doesn't get the info from the TV for the timings and resolution. I just used one of the several VGA cables I had lying around and it came right up with the correct info. 1920x1080P 60hz. That was easy and I only have a few pixels of overscan. Now if I could get the iscan to output a signal that the TV will accept.
So it definitely works with a 1080P VGA input.

In the end, he finally gave up and logged my issue but....we will see if it get's logged. I guess I will have to call back to verify that the issue was logged.
If you have trouble communicating with the lowest level customer support person ask to speak to the next level up. It saves a lot of grief.

Yeah, I tried but he seemed to get upset that I wanted to talk to a higher level tech. I guess I should have just called back. I am a pretty calm person who just explains what I want...usually that works but not this time.

Maybe if enough people log the issue it will get a fix.

Has anyone been able to calibrate the TV to consistently show BTB on the HDMI inputs. Even after turning of the tv and turning it back on or switching inputs? Any suggestions.

Hello everybody (as you can see, this is my first post),
On 7/22, I preordered a 5668 from tvauthority (at the time, i didnt know about the powerbuy), and I finally received the call from tvauthority on 8/15. As I am upgrading from a 13 year old tube tv, I know almost nothing about HDTV. However, I do know some.
I am planning on getting a DVR. I understand that this tv is able to accept a CableCard. Does this mean that I need to have an external cable box with the DVR hooked up? If I insist on having the CableCard, and use an external cable box just for my DVR, will this work? According to my limited knowledge, it should..........but would like to confirm it.
I am planning on getting a DVD player (I still dont own one). I have heard of the Oppo on this forum and have checked out the specs. Also, I have checked the specs on the 950. In your opinion, which one looks better, as they have nearly identical specs. I would greatly appreciate it if somebody who owns/has seen both would reply.
In preparation for this tv, I bought a component cable for my xbox and have had the stand set up for a couple weeks. Please forgive me if I have asked a question that has already been answered in this thread,.....there's just too much to read and remember (though I have read it all(i think)).
Thankyou

Does anyone know if there is more to the picture mode than what can be changed in the menu? I've been playing around with the picture settings some more and comparing them to the factory defaults for the dynamic, standard, movie modes. However, I changed all my custom setting numbers to mimic those of movie mode and switched back and forth between the two. I noticed that the image I was viewing did not look the same, even though the settings are.

Many people including myself believe "Movie" mode does different processing than the other modes. What exactly it is is unknown.

My HD950 is sending bitstream audio via optical to my receiver, but since I am connecting via HDMI it is also sending it to the TV which doesn't support this format and even with the internal mute on the TV I keep getting warnings about this. Anyone get this?

John, we are all getting the warnings that HDMI audio is not supported if it is bitstream, Only 2 channel PCM is supported through HDMI on our new TVs. Just ignore the warning. It goes away quickly once you start watching a movie and does not reappear until the movie is over. In previous discussion on this thread, it was decided that at the present time there is no way to disable that message.

By the way, I only get the message when I use HDMI on my DVD player, the Samsung 941. I do not get this message when watching TV using the cable box SA8300HD, which is also connected via HDMI.

My HD950 is sending bitstream audio via optical to my receiver, but since I am connecting via HDMI it is also sending it to the TV which doesn't support this format and even with the internal mute on the TV I keep getting warnings about this. Anyone get this?

Yes ... when testing the 950 I observed this. I haven't posted the results of my 950 testing, but suffice it to say that the player did not hold up well. If you want to see all of the detail, PM me and I will send you my notes. The other two players I am testing the Sony DVP-NS975V and OPPO are holding up well. I hope to post all results soon.

I am planning on getting a DVD player (I still dont own one). I have heard of the Oppo on this forum and have checked out the specs. Also, I have checked the specs on the 950. In your opinion, which one looks better, as they have nearly identical specs. I would greatly appreciate it if somebody who owns/has seen both would reply. Thankyou

I purchased the Samsung 941 just before the 950 came out. It is now heavily discounted. Some people on this forum have complained about macroblocking on this model because it uses the Farougia chipset. I, for one, have not yet observed this phenomenon. In fact, the picture is phenomenal! Incredibly clear. Looks almost like HD. Blacks could be better differentiated, but I have not yet had time to do any calibration. Just watched my first movie in the movie mode. Overall, very satisfied with this model ... so far.

Yes ... when testing the 950 I observed this. I haven't posted the results of my 950 testing, but suffice it to say that the player did not hold up well. If you want to see all of the detail, PM me and I will send you my notes. The other two players I am testing the Sony DVP-NS975V and OPPO are holding up well. I hope to post all results soon.

I also tested the Samsung and the Sony, as well as a Denon 1910. I have the same opinion of the Samsung as UCSB and posted this in the DVD forum. I also have gotten good results with the Sony.

Has anyone been able to calibrate the TV to consistently show BTB on the HDMI inputs. Even after turning of the tv and turning it back on or switching inputs? Any suggestions.

Showing (or passing) BTB is a property of your dvd player, not the tv. And the easiest way to see whether or not it does is to use the DVE pluge patterns and reverse gray ramps, Title 12, Chapters 2,3, and 14.

Bad news. I need some advice.

I got my replacement set after having some red static issues on my first set.

My replacement has a different problem, and I don't even know how to describe it. The new problem is significantly worse than the old one, and I really just don't know what to do now. When I look at any source, HDMI, component, S-Video, OTA feeds, dark areas are all blotchy and it just looks horrible. On the set I had before everything looked perfect, truly stunning, and the only problem I had was the red static stuff, which I could have lived with given the way my new set looks now.

I'm really upset, and I don't know if I just want my money back so I can figure out what I want to do, or if I should get Samsung to come out, or if I should have ANOTHER replacement sent. I will try to take some pictures and post them, but for this problem, I'm not sure pictures will do much good, so I'll have to see.

One symptom is that people's faces pretty have no color depth. It's like part of a person's face is either red or pink, with no variation in between. It is almost like I am looking at a set that is in 256 color or something. For brighter colors and whites it is not as noticeable, but for dark pictures and people's faces, there is no color gradient. Either something is one color or the other. For example, for a building, it's like it's part one light color gray on one side and part one dark color gray on the other.

Has anyone experienced this? What do people recommend I do? I don't want to have to send this set back to get another that is just as bad, but then again I don't want Samsung to take forever getting someone to look at the set. I am trying to be patient, but I would have rather dealt with the old set in the condition it was in and waited on Samsung to get me a replacement than deal with this nonsense.

My HD950 is sending bitstream audio via optical to my receiver, but since I am connecting via HDMI it is also sending it to the TV which doesn't support this format and even with the internal mute on the TV I keep getting warnings about this. Anyone get this?

Mute the internal TV speakers to get rid of all messages for unsupported audio streams.

Clorox

Sorry to hear about the replacement set's problems.

Was this a local purchase or etailer??

[B]I'm really upset, and I don't know if I just want my money back so I can figure out what I want to do, or if I should get Samsung to come out, or if I should have ANOTHER replacement sent.
The option I wouldn't go with is a repair on a set that is bad out of the box.

Clorox

Sorry to hear about the replacement set's problems.

Was this a local purchase or etailer??

It was through TVA, and they've been so nice and everything that I feel bad I'm having these problems and I'd probably make them take a loss on my set if I have to send it back again (or does Samsung foot the bill for this if it's a manufacturing defect?). I'm not even a very picky person, but if any of you saw this set, you would be shocked at how bad it is. I feel like I need verification from TMSKILZ or another NYer to come see how bad this is.

The option I wouldn't go with is a repair on a set that is bad out of the box.

So should I just call up TVA again and have them swap it out? This is getting ridiculous. I will have to make sure I get some more good pictures for them so they know I'm not insane.

Hi all,
This is my first post but have been reading these forums for about a month. I currently have a Samsung HLR-5667w and just found out that it has a bad hdmi input. I bought a Denon DVD-1920 and cannot get any picture from hdmi. I went to Magnolia and they said it had to be the tv because it worked in the store. I ended up ordering a HLR-5668w and will have it Saturday to swap out. I just have an hd antenna and a sd Directv setup. I just wanted to post about this as it will be helpful to post about my experiences as far as from 720p to 1080p. I have read a lot of info on here and just want to contribute what I can to help people out. Thanks to all that contribute good information on here about what they have encountered.

So should I just call up TVA again and have them swap it out? This is getting ridiculous. I will have to make sure I get some more good pictures for them so they know I'm not insane.

Clorox, I recommend you call both Samsung and TVA and get the ball rolling from both ends. It takes TVA at least a week to get a TV rolling (experience x2). Samsung was ready to send a tech out the day I called. Give it a shot. If the tech say's replace, Samsung will send direct to you. Either way, have patience and try again. I really feel for you. These TVs are so fragile that it could be manufacturing, it could be stocking, it could be transpo, etc.

Cranium up and give them both a shout. Keep us up to date.

So should I just call up TVA again and have them swap it out? This is getting ridiculous. I will have to make sure I get some more good pictures for them so they know I'm not insane.
That's what I would do. It would get more attention from Samsung if it's happening to more than your set.

You have a clear idea how good your first set looked. You should get one close to that without the "red" stuff.

Don't worry about TVA's profit. I'm sure they are doing just fine. :)

I am probably sounding like an idiot :o , but I just got my Samsung HL-R5678W last week and can not figure out where to get a VGA cable to connect the TV to my PC. Every one I find is a VGA male to female cable and no male-to-male that seems to be needed for the connection. Am I missing something here, or am I looking for the wrong cable, or what? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.


I got one at Staples for $12

Yes it accepts 1080p60 on the VGA port. Several people already posted pics of this.

But VGA ports only accept analog signals... Why did Samsung create a 1080p TV that can't actually receive a digital 1080p signal? Hmmmmmmm....

But VGA ports only accept analog signals... Why did Samsung create a 1080p TV that can't actually receive a digital 1080p signal? Hmmmmmmm....

I think there are two answers: 1) there's nothing that is 1080p digital right now anyway; 2) it is probably cheaper.
I wouldn't worry too much about the signal degradation of VGA. We've all been quite happy with 1600x1200 text inches from our faces for years.

Okay, so I have attached some images that illustrate my display issues in case anyone cares or in case anyone has seen this before and knows what the problem is.

Aside from the fact that the display is too dark, I have some serious issues here. Note that the pictures that look halfway decent are comparison shots of roughly the same images taken from my 25" philips/magnavox tube, which even though it sucks big time is considerably better than my replacement 5668.

5668 pictures are on the left, CRT pictures are on the right.

Anyone seen this before? I know I need yet another replacement set (or a Samsung Technician at a minimum), but I'm wondering if this is a symptom people have seen on old HLP or HLN models...

Thanks in advance for any guidance or help with this.

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/Face1.JPGhttp://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/Face2.JPG

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/Writing1.JPGhttp://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/Writing2.JPG

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/Intro1.JPGhttp://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/Intro2.JPG

http://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/Universal1.JPGhttp://gallery.avsforum.com/data/508/Universal2.JPG

I hope my replacement set doesn't have the same problem, since it is probably from the same batch. I'll be in a bind if it does since I have a calibration scheduled with Eliab on Sep 8th.

Clorox.

Some people have said that these TVs are very much like a computer. Try unplugging it for a minute, reconnect it and see it reboots properly.

I just received the 5688 model and have some questions. I have a Comcast DVR box(6412). When I tried to watch a SD movie from on-demand, I kept seeing a vertical line along the left side of the screen (between the picture and black part). I then set the cable box to strech all SD pictures to fill the whole screen. This solved the line problem, but now the images are somewhat distorted (obviously). Do people commonly strech SD to fill the whole screen? What is that line? Also, in SD with very dark scenes, I see a pixalation effect (like moving pixels-hard to describe). Is this normal. All HD shows are absolutely perfect. The picture is amazing. I just with there were more HD channels.

Thanks.
I have the same line on the left of a 4:3 image and my 4:3 images are pin cusioned too. Add this to my other 2 display problems of overscan and alignment. Me thinks there is a bit of quality control on the Mexico line (or the Donkey trip)

My HD950 is sending bitstream audio via optical to my receiver, but since I am connecting via HDMI it is also sending it to the TV which doesn't support this format and even with the internal mute on the TV I keep getting warnings about this. Anyone get this?
Yep. You can turn messages off each use on the DVD player but I just live with it.

Clorox I feel for you man!

Where in NyC do you reside? i'm in Queens.

SERVICE MENU LISTING

The attached PDF file is a copy of all the service menu items. Where I say grey after an item it means that the item is greyed out and that you can make no changes. I have tried to be very careful with capitalizations, underlines and spacing. In this file there are some mixing of values for various inputs. That is, depending on the input there are value changes to some items. I plan to go back and figure out which items change depending of input and come up with associated values for each type of input. Anyway for anyone interested here are the Service Menu Items. :D

[QUOTE=Clorox]Okay, so I have attached some images that illustrate my display issues in case anyone cares or in case anyone has seen this before and knows what the problem is.

Aside from the fact that the display is too dark, I have some serious issues here. Note that the pictures that look halfway decent are comparison shots of roughly the same images taken from my 25" philips/magnavox tube, which even though it sucks big time is considerably better than my replacement 5668.

5668 pictures are on the left, CRT pictures are on the right.

Anyone seen this before? I know I need yet another replacement set (or a Samsung Technician at a minimum), but I'm wondering if this is a symptom people have seen on old HLP or HLN models...

Thanks in advance for any guidance or help with this.



Dear Clorox,
First, I am not a fluent english user...sorry!
Here are some advises to your 5668 problem.

1. unplug the power cord and reconnect.
2. If same symptom continues,
adjust "index delay" in the service menu. (Can you enter the service mode?)

When you enter service menu you will see DDP1011, DNIe,......Option,Service and
SW Version. (Schaffer970 wrote above)
Then, enter DDP1011 and you will find "Index Delay" Menu.
This menu controls color wheel movement. You can change value and you will see
R,G,B,W gray scale pattern. (See the picture below)

Chane the value that gray scale linearity looks the best.
I Think your TV's color linearity is not good...
Please do this and tell me result.
thanks,

SERVICE MENU LISTING

The attached PDF file is a copy of all the service menu items. Where I say grey after an item it means that the item is greyed out and that you can make no changes. I have tried to be very careful with capitalizations, underlines and spacing. In this file there are some mixing of values for various inputs. That is, depending on the input there are value changes to some items. I plan to go back and figure out which items change depending of input and come up with associated values for each type of input. Anyway for anyone interested here are the Service Menu Items. :D
I am wondering if on the service menu the DNIe On/Off being set to OFF makes the On/Off option unavailable. Perhaps if the service menu setting were to be set to On, then maybe the DNIe On/Off settings might be available somewhere on the regular picture menu. I myself lack the courage to try this, but perhaps some brave soul who has already tinkered with this setting might want to try it.

SERVICE MENU LISTING

The attached PDF file is a copy of all the service menu items. Where I say grey after an item it means that the item is greyed out and that you can make no changes. I have tried to be very careful with capitalizations, underlines and spacing. In this file there are some mixing of values for various inputs. That is, depending on the input there are value changes to some items. I plan to go back and figure out which items change depending of input and come up with associated values for each type of input. Anyway for anyone interested here are the Service Menu Items. :D

Schaffer,
Woops, I forgot to say Thank You. Your hard work is much appreciated. EG

thanks for the info. i just checked and circuit city sells thems online with pickup at the store.

At the advice of someone else in this forum I used the Omnimount CCH1. I had to move the rear legs up toward the front, but this was easy to do.

[QUOTE=Clorox]Okay, so I have attached some images that illustrate my display issues in case anyone cares or in case anyone has seen this before and knows what the problem is.

Aside from the fact that the display is too dark, I have some serious issues here. Note that the pictures that look halfway decent are comparison shots of roughly the same images taken from my 25" philips/magnavox tube, which even though it sucks big time is considerably better than my replacement 5668.

5668 pictures are on the left, CRT pictures are on the right.

Anyone seen this before? I know I need yet another replacement set (or a Samsung Technician at a minimum), but I'm wondering if this is a symptom people have seen on old HLP or HLN models...

Thanks in advance for any guidance or help with this.



Dear Clorox,
First, I am not a fluent english user...sorry!
Here are some advises to your 5668 problem.

1. unplug the power cord and reconnect.
2. If same symptom continues,
adjust "index delay" in the service menu. (Can you enter the service mode?)

When you enter service menu you will see DDP1011, DNIe,......Option,Service and
SW Version. (Schaffer970 wrote above)
Then, enter DDP1011 and you will find "Index Delay" Menu.
This menu controls color wheel movement. You can change value and you will see
R,G,B,W gray scale pattern. (See the picture below)

Chane the value that gray scale linearity looks the best.
I Think your TV's color linearity is not good...
Please do this and tell me result.
thanks,

YOU DESERVE A REWARD FOR THE BEST FORUM NEWBIE EVER!!!

THIS WORKED!!!

Mine was initially set at 45, which was way too low. I changed it to 60 which is pretty close. This is good enough for now, but I think I should still at least maybe have a Samsung Tech look at the set in case there is something else wrong with the set.

fromstart, I notice yours is at 39... is there any reason that the difference is so big for different sets?

SERVICE MENU LISTING

The attached PDF file is a copy of all the service menu items. Where I say grey after an item it means that the item is greyed out and that you can make no changes. I have tried to be very careful with capitalizations, underlines and spacing. In this file there are some mixing of values for various inputs. That is, depending on the input there are value changes to some items. I plan to go back and figure out which items change depending of input and come up with associated values for each type of input. Anyway for anyone interested here are the Service Menu Items. :D

Schaeffer, I notice your index delay is set at 56. Can some other owners let me know what their index delay is set at? That might help me adjust my level better.

Thanks!

Clorox

Woo hoo.........

Now you got to post another jpeg for us. :)

I would think twice about doing this. I think a Samsung tech would be able to tell if you've been in the service menu. If you have they might try and blame you for the problem. Unless of course just swapping it out without a service visit prior.

As recommended, do both. Arrange for a service visit and for a swap. That way the service visit might fix the problem, if not, at least the ball is rolling in getting the tv replaced.

I'm sort of disappointed in these QA issues. I monitored the Q006 monitor from its very inception and they had very little problems with bad tvs. I wonder what is in store with my tv?????

[QUOTE=Clorox]Okay, so I have attached some images that illustrate my display issues in case anyone cares or in case anyone has seen this before and knows what the problem is.

Aside from the fact that the display is too dark, I have some serious issues here. Note that the pictures that look halfway decent are comparison shots of roughly the same images taken from my 25" philips/magnavox tube, which even though it sucks big time is considerably better than my replacement 5668.

5668 pictures are on the left, CRT pictures are on the right.

Anyone seen this before? I know I need yet another replacement set (or a Samsung Technician at a minimum), but I'm wondering if this is a symptom people have seen on old HLP or HLN models...

Thanks in advance for any guidance or help with this.



Dear Clorox,
First, I am not a fluent english user...sorry!
Here are some advises to your 5668 problem.

1. unplug the power cord and reconnect.
2. If same symptom continues,
adjust "index delay" in the service menu. (Can you enter the service mode?)

When you enter service menu you will see DDP1011, DNIe,......Option,Service and
SW Version. (Schaffer970 wrote above)
Then, enter DDP1011 and you will find "Index Delay" Menu.
This menu controls color wheel movement. You can change value and you will see
R,G,B,W gray scale pattern. (See the picture below)

Chane the value that gray scale linearity looks the best.
I Think your TV's color linearity is not good...
Please do this and tell me result.
thanks,

Mute the internal TV speakers to get rid of all messages for unsupported audio streams.

That won't work. This is a known issue with the Sammy 950. The message only appears when the player is switching audio types (e.g. 2 channel to 5.1 channel) and then goes away after a few seconds. Once the movie starts and it disappears, it shouldn't reappear.

I would think twice about doing this. I think a Samsung tech would be able to tell if you've been in the service menu. If you have they might try and blame you for the problem. Unless of course just swapping it out without a service visit prior.

As recommended, do both. Arrange for a service visit and for a swap. That way the service visit might fix the problem, if not, at least the ball is rolling in getting the tv replaced.

I'm sort of disappointed in these QA issues. I monitored the Q006 monitor from its very inception and they had very little problems with bad tvs. I wonder what is in store with my tv?????

[QUOTE=fromstart]

Can the service people really tell I've been in the service menu? How? Even so, if I change the one setting I changed back before they come, I'm not voiding the warranty by going into the service menu, am I?

FLAPilot or JohnJonesCA, had you gone into the service menus before Samsung came to look at your sets? Did they care if you did?

I don't see what difference it makes. I wouldn't have gone into the menu if Samsung hadn't sent me a set with screwed up settings. They can blame me all they want, but it's not going to change the fact that the set was messed up out of the box.

I am wondering if on the service menu the DNIe On/Off being set to OFF makes the On/Off option unavailable. Perhaps if the service menu setting were to be set to On, then maybe the DNIe On/Off settings might be available somewhere on the regular picture menu. I myself lack the courage to try this, but perhaps some brave soul who has already tinkered with this setting might want to try it.

Tried twice, setting would not stick to On, after power down and back up, it reverts back to Off.

Schaeffer, I notice your index delay is set at 56. Can some other owners let me know what their index delay is set at? That might help me adjust my level better.

Thanks!

Hey Clorox, glad to hear you fixed it. Mine is set to 53 on my 5678. I wonder if the picture mode calibrations affect this setting since they seem to vary set to set.

I think that you just voided the warranty on your TV.

But if it works - so what!.

[QUOTE=slocko]I would think twice about doing this. I think a Samsung tech would be able to tell if you've been in the service menu. If you have they might try and blame you for the problem. Unless of course just swapping it out without a service visit prior.

As recommended, do both. Arrange for a service visit and for a swap. That way the service visit might fix the problem, if not, at least the ball is rolling in getting the tv replaced.

I'm sort of disappointed in these QA issues. I monitored the Q006 monitor from its very inception and they had very little problems with bad tvs. I wonder what is in store with my tv?????



Can the service people really tell I've been in the service menu? How? Even so, if I change the one setting I changed back before they come, I'm not voiding the warranty by going into the service menu, am I?

FLAPilot or JohnJonesCA, had you gone into the service menus before Samsung came to look at your sets? Did they care if you did?

I don't see what difference it makes. I wouldn't have gone into the menu if Samsung hadn't sent me a set with screwed up settings. They can blame me all they want, but it's not going to change the fact that the set was messed up out of the box.
Some have posted that entering the SM could cause some warranty issues, however, I've had Samsung service to my house (unfortuantely) many times and it was never an issue. I find it hard to believe that a tech would raise this issue. They get paid for the service call and are there to fix the TV. IMO you would need to have a real hard axx tech to have this issue raised and my experience with Samsung to date is that their service and techs are terrific. I originally started with an HLP and after some problems I was able to swap that with a 5668. Unfortuanately, I had a problem with this new set (a little white dot appears on the screen) and so a new 5668 is on its way. Candidly, I would've preferred to instead have my set repaired, but unfortunately no parts are yet available for these sets (at least the parts that the tech said I needed) so it was either wait indefinitely or get an exchange. I went for the exchange, but with some trepidation, which has been exacerbated after reviewing your posts. I hope I don't regret my decision to go for the exchange and end up with something worse!

seems as if there's been quite a few complaints about unpacking the tv inside.

why is there so much cleanup involved with unpacking the tv in the house? styrofoam gets everywhere? or is there something that actually gets the carpet dirty?

i can't figure out what would take 2 hours to clean up?!?!
The problem I had with unpacking my TV inside the house was related to how dirty the box became on the bottom. This was most likely the result from being transferred from numerous trucks.

When my TV arrived the package looked in good shape so I decided to move the box into the house and start to hook-up the TV. Then when I finally moved the TV from the box and removed the packaging material I noticed the mess left on my newly installed cream colored carpets. The wife went ballistic, so off to Home Depot I went to rent a carpet cleaner. The whole process took about 2 hours to rent, clean, and return the carpet cleaner.

If I would have first put down some type of drop cloth this whole mess could have been avoided. Yet, I was not thinking clearly. I wanted to hook-up my new TV ASAP. Just trying to give other group members a heads-up.

Just looking for some insight on the shipping process. I confirmed my order on Tuesday (8/16). From the posts here, it sounds like 5 days to get a tracking number and then another 5 to 7 days to recieve the set.

My question is, should I be expecting a call, email, or will my tracking number be listed under order status on the TV Authority website?

Also, I live about 50 miles south of Boston, MA. Has anyone from my neck of the woods received a set from TVA? If so, who was the shipping company and how were they (1 or 2 delivery men, lift gate, in to the house or curb side delivery)?

Thanks in advance.
-dreamr

Many people including myself believe "Movie" mode does different processing than the other modes. What exactly it is is unknown.

I think one thing it does differently is the 3:2 pull down. I don't know whether or not this would affect the look with non-movie material.

Lee

I hope my replacement set doesn't have the same problem, since it is probably from the same batch. I'll be in a bind if it does since I have a calibration scheduled with Eliab on Sep 8th.I know what you mean...I was going to use Eliab to calibrate my 6768 on his July tour to IL...but this set was delayed 3 times...maybe next time around...Good Luck and let us know how you Calibration goes. :)

hi:

I hope that this post belongs in this forum section, if not I apologize. I am a newbie so plz forgive. I posted it here because I will be a Samsung 6768w owner soon.

I need some advice on getting the correct system for my home. Looks like I am going with the Sammy 6768w so that will be the cornerstone. Also I can't change the audio components cause the Sammy will cost me 5k. I have Infinity satellites and the Kappa center channel plus Infinity 250 watt powered subwoofer that are about 12 yrs old. These have to stay ($$$)and I am very satified with them.

I purchased a Yamaha RX-V1400 receiver last year ($720) and a Sony DVP-NC665P dvd player (gift). Right now I have basic cable (75ohm connector, plz dont yell). My room is 17' wide and 13-15' to viewing the tv. Also 13' cathedral ceiling and plenty of daylight. Believe it or not we are watching a 27" panny flat crt.

Here is what we like to view. Mainly DVD's and in the future HD fare and unfortunately SD stuff cause thats mainly whats on. I AM NOT A GAMER.

I need to know if i should upgrade (ugg) the receiver again? Also, I want to get satellite. I watch the Yankees so Directv seems the way to go. I understand they have a new receiver/dvr. Which is the absolute best receiver for Directv with recording capability for the 6768w?

Lastly I guess the Sony DVD player has to go? It says progressive and mp3 player. It has component out and both coaxial and optical out sound. I am hoping only to buy the Directv receiver you guys/gals suggest and DVD player cause of $$$ restraints. Again any advice would be appreciated. Thanks so much. Regards...

I think Stallion's TV also accepts 1080p over HDMI. In fact he has a PS3 connected to one HDMI port and his BluRay player connected to the other. To improve the quality of course he disabled DNIE. Of course, I could be wrong about this, but the only way to prove that is if Stallion were to provide some nice pics

StallionRe, how old we are, what degrees we have, what we've achieved, where we've traveled, and how much money we've all made isn't really relevent here. If we were to take you literally and tell you what we've all done you may well find that many people leave you in the dust! But again, its not really relevent, we're not here to brag about our personal lives.

Anyway, I can't speak for everyone here but some of us, or at least myself, would appreciate seeing a photo of your picture menu so we can gain a clearer understanding of the DNIe settings on your 88 model TV and perhaps use this in discussions with Samsung about maybe getting firmware updates to the 68/78 models to get this feature. It just seems kinda strange that your 88 model apparently has DNIe control but other members of this forum that also have the 88 model do not appear to have that feature.

You say you want to help out but numerous polite requests to provide a photo for clarification have been ignored. Why is it so difficult to provide a photo? With so much disposable income and so many TVs, I would have thought you'd have a working digital camera.

Yes ... when testing the 950 I observed this. I haven't posted the results of my 950 testing, but suffice it to say that the player did not hold up well. If you want to see all of the detail, PM me and I will send you my notes. The other two players I am testing the Sony DVP-NS975V and OPPO are holding up well. I hope to post all results soon.

Bill... this is a little discouraging. I purchased the 950 along with my 6168 and it seems to be working GREAT for me! (using HDMI) The PQ I'm getting from this is really stunning on many of the high-quality DVDs I've been watching. Just as an aside, I watched Sin City last night on the 950 and it is AMAZING! The only negative I noticed was seeing rainbows for the first time, probably due to the fact that most of the movie is black and white.

Looking forward to your review of the 950 (along with the Sammy)

Thanks. Bill

[QUOTE=fromstart]

YOU DESERVE A REWARD FOR THE BEST FORUM NEWBIE EVER!!!

THIS WORKED!!!

Mine was initially set at 45, which was way too low. I changed it to 60 which is pretty close. This is good enough for now, but I think I should still at least maybe have a Samsung Tech look at the set in case there is something else wrong with the set.

fromstart, I notice yours is at 39... is there any reason that the difference is so big for different sets?

It appears that you are adjusting the timing of the color wheel to the mirror chip. Since this is partly mechanical, I would not expect it to be the same for any two sets, and could possibly be quite a bit different.

Just looking for some insight on the shipping process. I confirmed my order on Tuesday (8/16). From the posts here, it sounds like 5 days to get a tracking number and then another 5 to 7 days to recieve the set.

My question is, should I be expecting a call, email, or will my tracking number be listed under order status on the TV Authority website?

Also, I live about 50 miles south of Boston, MA. Has anyone from my neck of the woods received a set from TVA? If so, who was the shipping company and how were they (1 or 2 delivery men, lift gate, in to the house or curb side delivery)?

Thanks in advance.
-dreamr

They will email you a tracking number once the TV has actually shipped and on the truck. This tracking number will give you a link to Seko's site. From my experience I would keep an eye on its progress. My TV was suppossed to be delievered yesterday but somehow Seko lost the set. Luckily, I immediately called TVA and they sent a new set yesterday. The downside is now I have to wait another week. If I wouldn't have followed up with Seko and TVA as to the location of my TV, the delay may have been even longer. That is just my experience.

FLAPilot or JohnJonesCA, had you gone into the service menus before Samsung came to look at your sets? Did they care if you did?


No service call or trouble with my set here. Sorry

I think one thing it does differently is the 3:2 pull down. I don't know whether or not this would affect the look with non-movie material.

Lee

Actually, the Film Mode On/Off in the picture menu affects 3:2 pull down detection and only for 480i input (according to the manual). The Movie picture mode (vs. custom, standard, dynamic) is doing something else.

Schaeffer, I notice your index delay is set at 56. Can some other owners let me know what their index delay is set at? That might help me adjust my level better.

Thanks!

Thats the one number that I may have change before I realized what I was doing. I thought I got it back to what it was originally, but I won't swear to it. I would like to hear what numbers others have for the "index delay" who have a 6168.

[QUOTE=slocko]I would think twice about doing this. I think a Samsung tech would be able to tell if you've been in the service menu. If you have they might try and blame you for the problem. Unless of course just swapping it out without a service visit prior.

As recommended, do both. Arrange for a service visit and for a swap. That way the service visit might fix the problem, if not, at least the ball is rolling in getting the tv replaced.

I'm sort of disappointed in these QA issues. I monitored the Q006 monitor from its very inception and they had very little problems with bad tvs. I wonder what is in store with my tv?????



Can the service people really tell I've been in the service menu? How? Even so, if I change the one setting I changed back before they come, I'm not voiding the warranty by going into the service menu, am I?

FLAPilot or JohnJonesCA, had you gone into the service menus before Samsung came to look at your sets? Did they care if you did?

I don't see what difference it makes. I wouldn't have gone into the menu if Samsung hadn't sent me a set with screwed up settings. They can blame me all they want, but it's not going to change the fact that the set was messed up out of the box.

Clorox,

Samsung Tech didn't make it out. He ordered the part and then was going to come. Once we found it out it would be a while he said exchange it. That TV went back yesterday.

Scott

Thats the one number that I may have change before I realized what I was doing. I thought I got it back to what it was originally, but I won't swear to it. I would like to hear what numbers others have for the "index delay" who have a 6168.

The index setting is definitely one that can totally mess your display up. I agree that it would be great to hear what some of the other people's original settings are on their sets (whether they are 61" or 56" sets).

What exactly does it do? Does it speed up/slow down the color wheel?

Also, does anyone have a guide to what all the other junk does in the service menu?

I am probably sounding like an idiot :o , but I just got my Samsung HL-R5678W last week and can not figure out where to get a VGA cable to connect the TV to my PC. Every one I find is a VGA male to female cable and no male-to-male that seems to be needed for the connection. Am I missing something here, or am I looking for the wrong cable, or what? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I had this same issue--searching for "VGA cable" everywhere, I could only find "extenders" (which are male-to-female). Finally, on bestbuy.com, I searched for "monitor cable" and found a male-to-male Dynex. They had one in stock at my local store. It was pretty cheap and worked great for hooking up my PC to my 6168.

The index setting is definitely one that can totally mess your display up. I agree that it would be great to hear what some of the other people's original settings are on their sets (whether they are 61" or 56" sets).

What exactly does it do? Does it speed up/slow down the color wheel?

Also, does anyone have a guide to what all the other junk does in the service menu?

i doubt it speeds up rotation, that would be a fixed value, more likely it's a value used by the processor to determine how offset the color wheels 0 degree point is relative to the rotation sensor's 0 degree point.

I think that you just voided the warranty on your TV.

But if it works - so what!.
In three years I don't recall a case reported here where Samsung voided a warranty for entering the Service Menu.

One guy messed up his set so much that it was unwatchable. He called Samsung and told them what he had done. At first they refused to help, but later on they relented. This was a case where the customer had clearly caused the problem.

I don't remember anyone ever reporting that a service person showed the slightest interest in SM visits.

It's still a good idea to let the TV speak for itself, and not make an issue of what you were able to do in the SM.

As long as Samsung doesn't change their policy anyone who uses common sense should be just fine.

Keep in mind that Samsung is aware of this forum, and the activity that has always gone on here. In fact, during the early HLM days they officially thanked the forum members who had contributed to improved PQ through SM settings.

I appreciate your contributions to this forum StallionRe. You took time from your personal life to make the measurements on the Samsung stand and post them on this forum. Don't let certain people's opinion of you get you sour on the forum.
Celestial, Thank You so much, I know that I can always count on you. I am ignoring the rest.
Did you get your TV yet? What do you think about the stand that I measured for you? Will this work for you. I hope so.
Thanks,
Chris

Does anyone know if you can adjust the speed of the color wheel? I thought that I read a post about this. Does anyone know if you can? I have the 6178.
Is the default speed at 10,800RPMS?

In three years I don't recall a case reported here where Samsung voided a warranty for entering the Service Menu.

One guy messed up his set so much that it was unwatchable. He called Samsung and told them what he had done. At first they refused to help, but later on they relented. This was a case where the customer had clearly caused the problem.

I don't remember anyone ever reporting that a service person showed the slightest interest in SM visits.

It's still a good idea to let the TV speak for itself, and not make an issue of what you were able to do in the SM.

As long as Samsung doesn't change their policy anyone who uses common sense should be just fine.

Keep in mind that Samsung is aware of this forum, and the activity that has always gone on here. In fact, during the early HLM days they officially thanked the forum members who had contributed to improved PQ through SM settings.

htwaits,

You continue to be an asset to this forum with your information and experience. It is heartwarming to know that Samsung won't be on my case (though I don't even plan on telling them I went into the service menu anyway). My plan is to call Samsung and have them send a tech to look at my set. I will make sure to set the index delay value back to what it was (45) before the tech comes. Is it a bad idea to at least mention to the service tech when they come that someone on the forum told me that maybe the index delay setting was the reason for picture problems? After all, this is the truth... And then I will proceed to say "but I didn't bother, because I don't want to mess with all that technical stuff. It might mess my set up".

htwaits,

You continue to be an asset to this forum with your information and experience. It is heartwarming to know that Samsung won't be on my case (though I don't even plan on telling them I went into the service menu anyway). My plan is to call Samsung and have them send a tech to look at my set. I will make sure to set the index delay value back to what it was (45) before the tech comes. Is it a bad idea to at least mention to the service tech when they come that someone on the forum told me that maybe the index delay setting was the reason for picture problems? After all, this is the truth... And then I will proceed to say "but I didn't bother, because I don't want to mess with all that technical stuff. It might mess my set up".


Clorox - I would play it by ear but in general I would avoid telling untruths. :eek:

What if people are right and they can infact tell that you've been in the SM? You don't want to be caught with your pants down. All reports about Samsung customer service are good - be cool and I am sure things will work out.

Besides, if he is competent he may suggest the index delay thing himself.

Disclaimer: I haven't had a Sammy tech come to my house (I don't own the TV yet!). This is general advice I would hope would work in most situations. :)

It's been a month since USCB started this new Samsung 1080p Thread for Owner's of HLRxxx8W DLP Models, and I have been searching it for reactions from new owners that will help me confirm my tentative decision that (a) the HLR-5078 is the set I want, and (b) that this is as good a time as any to jump into HDTV. Unfortunately, all of the sub-threads and posts seem for my purposes too micro-focused on particular technical questions.

ISO: A few first-hand macro-evaluations of this model would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance,
Jack 123

OK, I've gotten good confirmation on the Samsung 1080p (thanks, Charlvit & others :) ) and will now move into the actual purchase phase. Before actually turning loose any big bux however, I would really appreciate some guidance on either or both of the following questions:

1. I notice some AVS members save a bundle by buying thru one or another online source. At the same time, having to return a set because of some malfunction appears to be far from rare. I don't know how hard it is to return a big & valuable item like an HDTV to an online outlet, but unless someone convinces me otherwise I will probably buy at a local bricks & mortar store like Myer-Emco or Tweeter, and consider their higher price a form of insurance. Any advice?

2. On Consumer Reports' HDTV discussion site, a couple of folks who identified themselves as electrical engineers made a big point of claiming that high-priced connecter cables from Monster & others are a rip-off, and that the cheapest cables available at Radio Shack will work just as well. Any truth to that?

Jack123

Clorox - I would play it by ear but in general I would avoid telling untruths. :eek:

What if people are right and they can infact tell that you've been in the SM? You don't want to be caught with your pants down. All reports about Samsung customer service are good - be cool and I am sure things will work out.

Besides, if he is competent he may suggest the index delay thing himself.

Disclaimer: I haven't had a Sammy tech come to my house (I don't own the TV yet!). This is general advice I would hope would work in most situations. :)
Samsung support is the very best, I called them about a broken stand and they took care of me right away. I am also very impressed with their customer service. There tech support is also very good. :)

I am so sorry for all the hard feelings in the past that I have posted. This is unlike me to react like this to certain people. I need to be more positive. I am smarter than this and know it. I don't act like this at home or work, so I will not act like this here again. I am cool now. ;) :cool:

Please forgive me for my negative reactions yesterday, this is unlike me.

I wanted to take this time to really thank all the people here that have helped me, sorry that I was not that much help to certain people. I want to get back on the right foot. Lets talk. :)

I will shortly take possesion of my 6168 via the powerbuy:)
Question:
I get Cable via Cablevision. If I get a Cablecard from them I need to understand how this works. For instance does the CC merely decode the coded signal and onward a digital signal to my new Sammy? Or does it also decode the signal to "analog" to the Sammy?

I ask because I was looking particularly at puchasing my own HD DVR and notivce that some of the newer units (Sony DHG-HDD500) accept Cablecard inputs. Butt he spec of this Sony indicates that it does NOT accept Cable digital signals merely OTA digits/OTA analog/ Cable analog. I found this quite curious. Because in the digital environment I would likely loose some picture quality by needlessly converting from digital to analog and back to digital again. Or is this just a qwerk of the Sony DVRs?

So how does the Cablecard actually work?

Thanks

Does anyone know if you can adjust the speed of the color wheel? I thought that I read a post about this. Does anyone know if you can? I have the 6178.
Is the default speed at 10,800RPMS?The speed of the color-wheel cannot be adjusted at all. It's speed is a constant 10,800rpm. You can adjust the color-wheel's DELAY setting. That determines the timing of the DMD mirrors to the various color segments on the wheel. The default is correct - do not adjust it unless you have the right equipment.

Gary

I had an expensive male-male VGA cable from RAM but it didn't work correctly with my 6168W. I returned it and purchased a cheap $15 cable from our local PC store.
Also note if you have access to any older monitors (More the professional lines) they usually have a detachable cable that can be used. A old dead monitor still has use!

For cheap VGA cables, you CANNOT beat monoprice.com.

OK, I've gotten good confirmation on the Samsung 1080p (thanks, Charlvit & others :) ) and will now move into the actual purchase phase. Before actually turning loose any big bux however, I would really appreciate some guidance on either or both of the following questions:

1. I notice some AVS members save a bundle by buying thru one or another online source. At the same time, having to return a set because of some malfunction appears to be far from rare. I don't know how hard it is to return a big & valuable item like an HDTV to an online outlet, but unless someone convinces me otherwise I will probably buy at a local bricks & mortar store like Myer-Emco or Tweeter, and consider their higher price a form of insurance. Any advice?

2. On Consumer Reports' HDTV discussion site, a couple of folks who identified themselves as electrical engineers made a big point of claiming that high-priced connecter cables from Monster & others are a rip-off, and that the cheapest cables available at Radio Shack will work just as well. Any truth to that?

Jack123

I think I agree with you on buying locally as most places will charge for shipping out and then you pay for shipping back so in the end what have you saved? I guess you have to decide to gamble or not but I havent been over whelmed but what I read about on line stores.

2. On Consumer Reports' HDTV discussion site, a couple of folks who identified themselves as electrical engineers made a big point of claiming that high-priced connecter cables from Monster & others are a rip-off, and that the cheapest cables available at Radio Shack will work just as well. Any truth to that?Absolutely! Bear in mind that there are cheap-and-nasty rip-off cables available, that may not work well at all. But there are a few reputable brands of cables that can do just as well as the expensive ones for a fraction of their price.

Gary

Does anyone know if you can adjust the speed of the color wheel?
No. It's a fixed speed.

I thought that I read a post about this.

The ongoing discussion about adjusting "Index Delay" allows some kind of coordination with the color wheel, but the wheel speed remains constant.

When my set was calibrated by SethS on of the first things he did was adjust the value for "Index Delay".

OK, I've gotten good confirmation on the Samsung 1080p (thanks, Charlvit & others :) ) and will now move into the actual purchase phase. Before actually turning loose any big bux however, I would really appreciate some guidance on either or both of the following questions:

1. I notice some AVS members save a bundle by buying thru one or another online source. At the same time, having to return a set because of some malfunction appears to be far from rare. I don't know how hard it is to return a big & valuable item like an HDTV to an online outlet, but unless someone convinces me otherwise I will probably buy at a local bricks & mortar store like Myer-Emco or Tweeter, and consider their higher price a form of insurance. Any advice?

2. On Consumer Reports' HDTV discussion site, a couple of folks who identified themselves as electrical engineers made a big point of claiming that high-priced connecter cables from Monster & others are a rip-off, and that the cheapest cables available at Radio Shack will work just as well. Any truth to that?

Jack123

Most people here are buying through TVA (see the power buy thread). I believe their return policy allows you 30 days to send the set back. If you decide to purchase another set through them then there is no charge. I've seen reports of several members sending their sets back and there doesn't seem to be any reports of it being a hassle. (these were returns of a bad set - TVA send them new ones before they even had to send the damaged one back).

As for cables, it's almost a religious war. My own personal view is to get decent quality cables for analog signals and digital is pretty much digital. Monster is the Bose of the cable world - what they sell isn't cr*p but it's priced much higher than it should be. They have a large advertising budget to supplement. You can get cables that are just as good, if not better, for less.

I have the same line on the left of a 4:3 image and my 4:3 images are pin cusioned too. Add this to my other 2 display problems of overscan and alignment. Me thinks there is a bit of quality control on the Mexico line (or the Donkey trip)Pin-cushion is normal in all of these microdisplay RPTV's. All of Samsungs models have this issue due to the huge projection from a tiny DMD chip, in a really tight space.

Gary

Can any owners of this stand confirm the size of the glass shelf for audio components? Does it taper back from the front to the back versus being rectangular? Can it support two components side by side and perhaps even stacked 2x2?

I have seen some non-Samsung stands that can support the 6168 but the glass shelf they supply tapers back to 24" in width at the back. This means there is only sufficient depth for one component like a receiver and you can't place two components side by side.

Thanks,
Rick

Most people here are buying through TVA (see the power buy thread).
The Powerbuy thread is a stickie at the top of the thread list for this forum. :)

Be sure to get into the AVS forum members area to get the powerbuy prices.

I believe their return policy allows you 30 days to send the set back. If you decide to purchase another set through them then there is no charge.
What I understand is that there is no shipping charge for defective exchanges during the first thirty days. If you just don't like the set maybe TVA will pay the return shipping if you are buying a different set. I don't recall anyone doing that, but it's sure possible.

In any case there is no "restocking fee".

I bought locally so I don't have any first hand experience. The reports posted in this forum have been outstanding.

OK, I've gotten good confirmation on the Samsung 1080p (thanks, Charlvit & others :) ) and will now move into the actual purchase phase. Before actually turning loose any big bux however, I would really appreciate some guidance on either or both of the following questions:

1. I notice some AVS members save a bundle by buying thru one or another online source. At the same time, having to return a set because of some malfunction appears to be far from rare. I don't know how hard it is to return a big & valuable item like an HDTV to an online outlet, but unless someone convinces me otherwise I will probably buy at a local bricks & mortar store like Myer-Emco or Tweeter, and consider their higher price a form of insurance. Any advice?

2. On Consumer Reports' HDTV discussion site, a couple of folks who identified themselves as electrical engineers made a big point of claiming that high-priced connecter cables from Monster & others are a rip-off, and that the cheapest cables available at Radio Shack will work just as well. Any truth to that?

Jack123
The discission for me to purchase from an e-retailer was also difficult. Yet, when I finally crunched the numbers I was able to save about $ 1 K in my total purchase. (better price, no tax) This amounts to about a 20 % savings. I felt this was to much money for me to leave on the table.

1. I notice some AVS members save a bundle by buying thru one or another online source. At the same time, having to return a set because of some malfunction appears to be far from rare. I don't know how hard it is to return a big & valuable item like an HDTV to an online outlet, but unless someone convinces me otherwise I will probably buy at a local bricks & mortar store like Myer-Emco or Tweeter, and consider their higher price a form of insurance. Any advice?

Most of us went through TVA for their PB. You will save a great deal. They have a forum located here...
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=545162
I had to get a replacement TV for a bad card. Samsung hadn't stocked their parts yet and, believe it or not, replacement was easiest. TVA was great and it worked without a problem. Yesterday, the shipper dropped off the new set, waited until I checked it out and then took away the old set. The savings realized are over a grand.


2. On Consumer Reports' HDTV discussion site, a couple of folks who identified themselves as electrical engineers made a big point of claiming that high-priced connecter cables from Monster & others are a rip-off, and that the cheapest cables available at Radio Shack will work just as well. Any truth to that?
Jack123

I use the OEM cables that came with my HD DVR 942 and Sammy HD 950. They work fine. Never been a fan of super high dollar cables. There as many opinions on thats as as______...(you get the point).

I will make sure to set the index delay value back to what it was (45) before the tech comes. Is it a bad idea to at least mention to the service tech when they come that someone on the forum told me that maybe the index delay setting was the reason for picture problems?
Thanks for the kind words. My wife thinks I have a screw or two loose.

I believe the set should do the talking. :cool:

If the tech doesn't know what to do without hints I'd rather not have him in the service menu playing around. :eek:

I am cool now. ;) :cool:
Welcome. :cool:

YOU DESERVE A REWARD FOR THE BEST FORUM NEWBIE EVER!!!

THIS WORKED!!!

Mine was initially set at 45, which was way too low. I changed it to 60 which is pretty close. This is good enough for now, but I think I should still at least maybe have a Samsung Tech look at the set in case there is something else wrong with the set.

fromstart, I notice yours is at 39... is there any reason that the difference is so big for different sets?Good job fromstart!

Clorox, the reason for the big difference could be that Samsung "refurbishes" returned sets. When a light-engine is replaced, the tech is supposed to adjust the index delay setting to the correct default value for that particular model. If this step was skipped, the light-engine's default will be used, and it is WAY off! Your set must have slipped through QC, or they could easily have caught that.

Gary

Welcome. :cool:
Thank you, It feels so good being back. Thanks for your comments about the color wheel. If I can only adjust the delay, what will this do to the PQ? If anything? Only a service person can adjust the delay? or can I?

So are you going to provide a digital photo of your DNIe menu or not?You didn't say Please :rolleyes:

OK, I've gotten good confirmation on the Samsung 1080p (thanks, Charlvit & others :) ) and will now move into the actual purchase phase. Before actually turning loose any big bux however, I would really appreciate some guidance on either or both of the following questions:

1. I notice some AVS members save a bundle by buying thru one or another online source. At the same time, having to return a set because of some malfunction appears to be far from rare. I don't know how hard it is to return a big & valuable item like an HDTV to an online outlet, but unless someone convinces me otherwise I will probably buy at a local bricks & mortar store like Myer-Emco or Tweeter, and consider their higher price a form of insurance. Any advice?

2. On Consumer Reports' HDTV discussion site, a couple of folks who identified themselves as electrical engineers made a big point of claiming that high-priced connecter cables from Monster & others are a rip-off, and that the cheapest cables available at Radio Shack will work just as well. Any truth to that?

Jack123

This is my first HDTV purchase. I looked hard and long before pulling the trigger. Someone turned me on to this forum which with out a doubt has been great. I have learned a lot and I haven't even gotten the set yet (should be here soon :D ).

I am not a fan of buying anything of this magnitude from an online retailer. I would have much rather of bought it at a local brick and mortar.

After looking around for quite a while and going through the numbers, I came up with about $800 savings when buying the TV and warranty through AVS Powerbuy via TV Authority. To me, that kind of savings was worth the risk.

All I can say is that my experience with TVA has been awesome. They have some of the most competent people I have ever dealt with.

From reading every post both in the powerbuy forum and the owners forum, I strongly believe that TV Authority is a company that stands behind the product and its warranty.

If you are not in a rush to get one of these set's, I would suggest that you read through the forums. You will see the kind of service some people have had dealing with TVA. They seem to work very hard in replacing any set that has given someone a problem.

The way I look at it is, the set comes with atleast a 1 year onsite warranty. If something is wrong, a Samsung tech will come to your house. If the set has to be replaced, they pick it up when they deliver the new one. I think that is a much better deal then trucking it home and then trucking it back if there is a problem and then trucking the new one home yourself. They only difference is that you might have to wait a couple of weeks.

Good Luck with whatever you decided and I look forward to hearing about your TV in the Owners Forum.

-dreamr

P.S. I don't work for TVA and this is my first purchase from TVA. I have no other motive other than trying to help someone out.

Thank you, It feels so good being back. Thanks for your comments about the color wheel. If I can only adjust the delay, what will this do to the PQ? If anything? Only a service person can adjust the delay? or can I?

The first question to that should be:

Why do you feel you want to try and adjust anything with the color wheel? Does the picture quality look bad or are you just look for something to tweak? I always think if it works fine now, why play around with it? The potential to make it look worse is larger than it is to make it look better.

Can any owners of this stand confirm the size of the glass shelf for audio components? Does it taper back from the front to the back versus being rectangular? Can it support two components side by side and perhaps even stacked 2x2?

I have seen some non-Samsung stands that can support the 6168 but the glass shelf they supply tapers back to 24" in width at the back. This means there is only sufficient depth for one component like a receiver and you can't place two components side by side.

Thanks,
Rick
I have this model stand and like it a lot. It looks good for all types of rooms.

The glass shelf is exactly what you describe. The glass shelf can support two components side by side. You can stack two components on top of each other but the shelf room from top to bottom is 12". This is the height from the bottom of the top shelf to the top of the glass. The glass shelf is taper from back to front. The shelf is 42" wide. It cant support a heavy receiver.

On my shelf I have a Sony 975N DVD HDMI player, on top of that I have my Athena Center speaker. On the side of the DVD player I have the front speakers. With room to spare on the shelf.

Later on today, I will take some pictures with my new digital camera and send them to the post.

Dreamr,

Thanks for the info it makes me feel better about dealing with them plus the fact that AVS is behind this makes it a lot better as well. I just need to go see one when I can find 1 in my area. After reading all the posts about these sets I can't wait to see for myself

Originally Posted by StallionRe
"I am cool now. "
Welcome. :cool:

I agree. Welcome back. Anyone can have a bad day. Just try to limit postings to the most imporant stuff. Still would like a photo of your screen showing DNIe options. This way we can petition Samsung to give the rest of us the options that you have.

Thank you, It feels so good being back. Thanks for your comments about the color wheel. If I can only adjust the delay, what will this do to the PQ? If anything? Only a service person can adjust the delay? or can I?
If you want the best PQ your sets can provide then I recommend an ISF calibration.

There are two or three Samsung DLP experts that regularly work in your area. You can get names and recommendations in these threads.

Just got my Samsung DLP calibrated! (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=542709&page=1&pp=30)

SethS Calibrated Our HLP5063 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=548133)

I can recommend Seth without reservation.

Here is a message about a HLR5668 calibration which might be the first 1080p set done by one of the best Samsung experienced calibrators.

HLR5668 ISF Calibration (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=6034385&&#post6034385)

All this is intended to discourage all but the most qualified to stay out of the SM except for carefully recording "all" the settings.

The first question to that should be:

Why do you feel you want to try and adjust anything with the color wheel? Does the picture quality look bad or are you just look for something to tweak? I always think if it works fine now, why play around with it? The potential to make it look worse is larger than it is to make it look better.

I think that you are right. I should not change this. My color wheel is working just fine. I thought that maybe my PQ could get better if I messed with the wheel. But like you said I should not mess with it if it works.
Good advice from a good guy.
Thanks! :)

Adding to this post, I will take pictures of my settings. Including the DNIe. However, I am wrong about that DNIe setting. :( I hold my head in shame and want to pass this situtation. ;)

Have any of you waiting for an HLR7178W heard about shipment delays from Samsung on these units? Mine just moved from Lat August to mid september.

Thank you, It feels so good being back. Thanks for your comments about the color wheel. If I can only adjust the delay, what will this do to the PQ? If anything? Only a service person can adjust the delay? or can I?

Don't touch the service menu. You will mess up your set ... it is that simple. Samsung service techs do not have the training to undo service menu setting errors or detect performance problems being caused by service menu settings.

Bill... this is a little discouraging. I purchased the 950 along with my 6168 and it seems to be working GREAT for me! (using HDMI) The PQ I'm getting from this is really stunning on many of the high-quality DVDs I've been watching. Just as an aside, I watched Sin City last night on the 950 and it is AMAZING! The only negative I noticed was seeing rainbows for the first time, probably due to the fact that most of the movie is black and white.

Looking forward to your review of the 950 (along with the Sammy)

Thanks. Bill

Anyone else watch Sin City on an 8W yet? Rainbows? I really like this movie and was hoping for it to be my first viewing experience on my first HDTV but maybe I should start with something safer? I have the 950 as well. Was it distracting (I know its different for everyone)?

8 days until my 5668 (is supposed to arrive).

I have this model stand and like it a lot. It looks good for all types of rooms.

The glass shelf is exactly what you describe. The glass shelf can support two components side by side. You can stack two components on top of each other but the shelf room from top to bottom is 12". This is the height from the bottom of the top shelf to the top of the glass. The glass shelf is taper from back to front. The shelf is 42" wide. It cant support a heavy receiver.

On my shelf I have a Sony 975N DVD HDMI player, on top of that I have my Athena Center speaker. On the side of the DVD player I have the front speakers. With room to spare on the shelf.

Later on today, I will take some pictures with my new digital camera and send them to the post.


Thanks StallionRe. I would appreciate it if you could let me know what the rear dimension is of the glass shelf given it tapers back. Ie. is the back portion of the shelf 42" wide?

Rich

OK, I've gotten good confirmation on the Samsung 1080p (thanks, Charlvit & others :) ) and will now move into the actual purchase phase. Before actually turning loose any big bux however, I would really appreciate some guidance on either or both of the following questions:

1. I notice some AVS members save a bundle by buying thru one or another online source. At the same time, having to return a set because of some malfunction appears to be far from rare. I don't know how hard it is to return a big & valuable item like an HDTV to an online outlet, but unless someone convinces me otherwise I will probably buy at a local bricks & mortar store like Myer-Emco or Tweeter, and consider their higher price a form of insurance. Any advice?

2. On Consumer Reports' HDTV discussion site, a couple of folks who identified themselves as electrical engineers made a big point of claiming that high-priced connecter cables from Monster & others are a rip-off, and that the cheapest cables available at Radio Shack will work just as well. Any truth to that?

Jack123

I bought my 6168 from TVA and had to get it replaced because my first one had problems. As I mentioned in the powerbuy thread, TVA service was excellent and painless. Others like FLApilot and clorox had their sets replaced too with similar experiences.

Anyone else watch Sin City on an 8W yet? Rainbows? I really like this movie and was hoping for it to be my first viewing experience on my first HDTV but maybe I should start with something safer? I have the 950 as well. Was it distracting (I know its different for everyone)?

8 days until my 5668 (is supposed to arrive).
Don't think of rainbows as something you'll see based on what others see. Doesn't work like that.

Someone asked to see the report generated by SpyderTV after calibration.
See the images below. This gives you an idea what Spyder is doing.

BTW, I misquoted the value for brightness @ 51. It should be 53.

That's pretty slick, Rabid. Thanks.

They will email you a tracking number once the TV has actually shipped and on the truck. This tracking number will give you a link to Seko's site. From my experience I would keep an eye on its progress. My TV was suppossed to be delievered yesterday but somehow Seko lost the set. Luckily, I immediately called TVA and they sent a new set yesterday. The downside is now I have to wait another week. If I wouldn't have followed up with Seko and TVA as to the location of my TV, the delay may have been even longer. That is just my experience.

Yea I got a tracking number and watched my 5688 sit for 5 days as "Dispatched". Nobody at SEKO had a clue. Then after 5 days it switched to "In Transit" yet the Delivery Date never changed. Needless to say the delivery date has come and gone and SEKO says the TV MAY arrive tomorrow..anybody's guess..

BTW I ordered a HD950 which had the same SEKO tracking number and it arrived today via UPS :confused:

Good Luck!

That's pretty slick, Rabid. Thanks.

You're welcome.

The thing that suprised me the most was the color temperature settings. Look at how far off target all but warm 2 are.

I would venture to guess most people are using "normal" as their setting. I know I was. This is why the Spyder is a good tool. It doesn't rely on the human eye, which is subjective.

Just got back from Tweeter with my brand new 5078!

I actually have/had a pre-order in the TVA Powerbuy, but Tweeter managed to come in at the same price and theyre all of 5 minutes down the road, not to mention they had the set ready to take home today.

I hope to get it set up tonight, and some initial reactions in a few days. I might be an interesting datapoint because i'm upgrading all the way from a 27" CRT, and this is my first HDTV. Pretty hardcore gamer too, so I can offer another "game lag" datapoint. I also only have a progressive (no upconversion) DVD player, so hopefully I can offer some comment on the quality of the set's scaler.

Anyone else watch Sin City on an 8W yet? Rainbows? I really like this movie and was hoping for it to be my first viewing experience on my first HDTV but maybe I should start with something safer? I have the 950 as well. Was it distracting (I know its different for everyone)?

8 days until my 5668 (is supposed to arrive).

I can't comment on Sin City yet (should be arriving soon), but I can say that I am pretty disappointed about the RBE that I am seeing. I don't have previous exposure to other DLP sets besides what I've seen in the B&M's and was sure that I was "impervious" to seeing them (I've tried to find them a lot before making this purchase). Now.... UNfortunately... I can't STOP seeing them!! I've tried chang the settings constantly and just when I think I've found a DECENT setting, BAM! (to quote Emeril) there they are again.

My purpose of this reply isn't to start another RBE b!tch session but rather let you know that if you're the type that can see rainbows.... you will! If anyone knows or would like to post their specific settings to minimize the RBE, please, please do so. I've already made the call to TVA and started seriously thinking about returning the set for this ONLY reason -- I just can't stand it. For those of you reading who may not understand why some see rainbows and some don't, I like to relate it to those 3-D pictures that came out in the 90's. You know, the ones where you stare at what seems to be a Van Gogh scribble of pretty liines and colors and then suddenly a 3-d image starts to appear. Some people are amazed and others confused!?! I happen to be who sees them immediately as do I NOW see the RBE. it sux!!

Luv to hear how others are coping with this if they are the RBE spotter type. I know the basics, (i.e. lowering the brightness, contrast, putting it movie mode, having more backlight, etc) Looking for others (if any). {just can't wait till I find the pot of gold :cool: }

Thanks StallionRe. I would appreciate it if you could let me know what the rear dimension is of the glass shelf given it tapers back. Ie. is the back portion of the shelf 42" wide?

Rich

You are welcome. I will go home this afternoon and measure the shelf for you to the exact measurement. The front of the shelf not being tapered is 42" wide, the rear being tapered, I suspect at 36"-38" in width, But please let me measure first.

To the question regarding the SM adjustments of the TV, I WILL NOT TOUCH them. Thanks to all of you for helping me out. You guys are really smart in these areas and I appreciate this.

I will post some pictures tonight of my set up, hope that you enjoy. I played with my TV last night and sure learned a lot more about it. I kept in mind all of your technical issues/suggestions while working on my set.

Thanks again. :)

I'm sorry to keep asking this question, but can someone else check their Index delay setting in the Service Menu?

When you enter service menu (start with TV off, press mute-1-8-2-power) you will see DDP1011 at the top. Then, press enter while highlighted on DDP1011 and you will find "Index Delay" Menu. Whatever that number says is what I'm looking for.

FYI-You won't mess anything up as long as you don't change any values, so you can just hit power to turn off again and then start back up as normal. If anyone can help me with this it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Don't touch the service menu. You will mess up your set ... it is that simple. Samsung service techs do not have the training to undo service menu setting errors or detect performance problems being caused by service menu settings.
Thank you. I took your advice and will not touch them at all. :D

I'm sorry to keep asking this question, but can someone else check their Index delay setting in the Service Menu?

When you enter service menu (start with TV off, press mute-1-8-2-power) you will see DDP1011 at the top. Then, press enter while highlighted on DDP1011 and you will find "Index Delay" Menu. Whatever that number says is what I'm looking for.

FYI-You won't mess anything up as long as you don't change any values, so you can just hit power to turn off again and then start back up as normal. If anyone can help me with this it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
I will be glad to do this for you today (late afternoon). I will post my findings tonight for you.
Chris

Hi all, newbie here. I read 90% of the 3346 posts here and skimmed the rest. It took me several days and too many hours to read them. I ordered my 5678 from Tweeter when they had a huge sale last week. BTW that sale price matched the TVA PB price. I'm a videographer and I'm looking to use the set to both edit on my PC and display my video work for clients. Having this in my living room is a nice bonus. I don't want to buy a HDTV and two HD widescreen PC monitors as well. I have really spent a lot of time researching the set once I found out they were close to shipping on the east coast. Now that they are shipping there are some other DLP's out there like Toshiba, Mits and Sony I think? I want to be sure I have the best model for the price. My friend bought the 5078 at the same time but he picked his up the other day. Mine was due in sometime next week and now they think Monday! My friend hasn't opened his up yet. It really sounds like this is the best out there for the HDTV and for the computer and probably video games. Is there anyone that would dare to say there is something better or maybe a review somewhere? I guess by not having mine yet and not seeing my friends setup in his house or not being able to hook up my computer to it leaves me unsure curious or wondering. This is a really big jump for me and I want to be sure. Maybe it would be easier to explain what these have that the others don't if it is hard to compare them. Thanks!

FYI-You won't mess anything up as long as you don't change any values, so you can just hit power to turn off again and then start back up as normal.

Any time anyone goes into the SM they should record their User Menu "Picture" settings (mode, contrast, brightness, sharpness, etc). I understand that those settings will default to their original settings when you exit the SM.

Now that they are shipping there are some other DLP's out there like Toshiba, Mits and Sony I think?
Panasonic will probably have a 1080p DLP but Sony doesn't do DLP.

If you bought from a dealer that allows returns, at no cost to you during the first 30 days, then you should be OK.

I can't speak for the HLR 1080p models, but all the previous Samsung models (HLM, HLN, and HLP) have been outstanding with computer input over DVI and HDMI.

There is some question about 1x1 bit mapping on the 1080p sets. I can tell you that I'm getting 1x1 bit mapping with our HLP5063 as well as outstanding de-interlacing and scaling from the 256MB PCI Express x16 ATI Radeon X800 XT graphics card I use.

Luv to hear how others are coping with this if they are the RBE spotter type. I know the basics, (i.e. lowering the brightness, contrast, putting it movie mode, having more backlight, etc) Looking for others (if any). {just can't wait till I find the pot of gold :cool: }I see dead people... I mean rainbows. But I still love the brilliant picture from my DLP.

There is little adjustment that can be done, aside from what you've already mentioned. Those things merely mask RBE to a small degree, treating the symptom, but not the cause. The cause cannot be treated in current single-chip DLP sytems. The military discovered that people sensitive to RBE continue to be so until the color-wheel is spinning at some ungodly rate that makes it impossible for the DMD chip to keep up. The latest "SCR" colorwheel is supposed to minimize the effect, but it isn't showing up in many products yet.

Note that this issue is most noticeable in high-contrast scenes, like white text on a black background, for example.

Here are some of the things you can do to cope:
Don't move your head too much.
Don't dart your eyes around the picture, or offscreen to check the clock, the DVD player, or the receiver. You may be doing this inadvertently. (My wife - also sensitive to RBE - darts her eyes back and forth in normal conversation... looking at my right eye, then my left eye in rapid succession... without even knowing that she does it).
Pick a smaller set, or sit further away. That will minimize the distance and speed your eyes have to move to scan the picture in normal viewing.
Don't chew while watching the set! Seriously... the minute (tiny) skull vibrations that chewing causes (especially cruchy stuff), is enough to freeze motion for equally minute fractions of a second, and that is a surefire way to notice color breakup.
Don't clench or grind your teeth... for the same reason as above.
Have a beer, get really comfortable and RELAX all your muscles - especially in your neck.
Give it time. You really do become used to it - especially if you train yourself not to look for it, and if you are mindful of the above things that can make RBE instantly noticeable.Unfortunately, when high-contrast scenes are in fast motion, like the lights in a night-time car-chase scene, there is nothing that can be done... just sit back and enjoy the rainbow-show... pretend you're on drugs! Aaaah! The pot of gold!

Gary

I am planning on getting a DVD player (I still dont own one). I have heard of the Oppo on this forum and have checked out the specs. Also, I have checked the specs on the 950. In your opinion, which one looks better, as they have nearly identical specs. I would greatly appreciate it if somebody who owns/has seen both would reply. I would definitely opt for the Oppo, based on the many experiences on this forum, including mine. Be sure to check this (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=567274) thread.

Gary

I can't comment on Sin City yet (should be arriving soon), but I can say that I am pretty disappointed about the RBE that I am seeing. I don't have previous exposure to other DLP sets besides what I've seen in the B&M's and was sure that I was "impervious" to seeing them (I've tried to find them a lot before making this purchase). Now.... UNfortunately... I can't STOP seeing them!! I've tried chang the settings constantly and just when I think I've found a DECENT setting, BAM! (to quote Emeril) there they are again.

My purpose of this reply isn't to start another RBE b!tch session but rather let you know that if you're the type that can see rainbows.... you will! If anyone knows or would like to post their specific settings to minimize the RBE, please, please do so. I've already made the call to TVA and started seriously thinking about returning the set for this ONLY reason -- I just can't stand it. For those of you reading who may not understand why some see rainbows and some don't, I like to relate it to those 3-D pictures that came out in the 90's. You know, the ones where you stare at what seems to be a Van Gogh scribble of pretty liines and colors and then suddenly a 3-d image starts to appear. Some people are amazed and others confused!?! I happen to be who sees them immediately as do I NOW see the RBE. it sux!!

Luv to hear how others are coping with this if they are the RBE spotter type. I know the basics, (i.e. lowering the brightness, contrast, putting it movie mode, having more backlight, etc) Looking for others (if any). {just can't wait till I find the pot of gold :cool: }

The 'pot of gold' is to do what I did....return the Samsung and buy a Sony LCD rear projection set...the blacks are not as good, but no rainbows. Better yet, wait for the Sony 1080p SXRD coming out next month...should have excellent PQ, and no rainbows. I have a feeling DLP is meeting its match. If you don't see rainbows though, the DLP's are a nice product.

I see dead people... I mean rainbows. But I still love the brilliant picture from my DLP.

There is little adjustment that can be done, aside from what you've already mentioned. Those things merely mask RBE to a small degree, treating the symptom, but not the cause. The cause cannot be treated in current single-chip DLP sytems. The military discovered that people sensitive to RBE continue to be so until the color-wheel is spinning at some ungodly rate that makes it impossible for the DMD chip to keep up. The latest "SCR" colorwheel is supposed to minimize the effect, but it isn't showing up in many products yet.

Note that this issue is most noticeable in high-contrast scenes, like white text on a black background, for example.

Here are some of the things you can do to cope:
Don't move your head too much.
Don't dart your eyes around the picture, or offscreen to check the clock, the DVD player, or the receiver. You may be doing this inadvertently. (My wife - also sensitive to RBE - darts her eyes back and forth in normal conversation... looking at my right eye, then my left eye in rapid succession... without even knowing that she does it).
Don't chew while watching the set! Seriously... the minute (tiny) skull vibrations that chewing causes (especially cruchy stuff), is enough to freeze motion for equally minute fractions of a second, and that is a surefire way to notice color breakup.
Don't clench or grind your teeth... for the same reason as above.
Have a beer, get really comfortable and RELAX all your muscles - especially in your neck.
Give it time. You really do become used to it - especially if you train yourself not to look for it, and if you are mindful of the above things that can make RBE instantly noticeable.Unfortunately, when high-contrast scenes are in fast motion, like the lights in a night-time car-chase scene, there is nothing that can be done... just sit back and enjoy the rainbow-show... pretend you're on drugs! Aaaah! The pot of gold!

Gary

Boy..there sure are a LOT of special rules to follow to watch a DLP set..lol :) Honestly, the only real solution is return a DLP, and buy some other type set if rainbows are bothersome. I would buy the new Sammy 1080p for sure, if not for that issue, but I even see rainbows at the store displays on them...UGH

Here are some of the things you can do to cope:

Have a back light or other ambient light on when you watch your TV reduces the amount of Rainbows that some people see.

Thanks htwaits. I have a Leadtek 6600 card on my dual Xenon workstation I built. That card was on the high, lowend when I bought it and I planned on upgrading it sooner than later. My understanding is that the card and the computer will edit and play HD with no problem but I guess a newer card can't hurt. I'm still deciding on a Z1 or newer HDV cam to complete my HD system. Anymore input on a possibly "better" DLP?

Anymore input on a possibly "better" DLP?
Samsung has been the most computer friendly builder of DLP sets. I have no idea which company will be the consensus "best DLP" builder. Personally I don't think there is that much difference, but we haven't seen anything other than Samsung DLP sets at this point in time.

[QUOTE=fromstart]

YOU DESERVE A REWARD FOR THE BEST FORUM NEWBIE EVER!!!

THIS WORKED!!!

Mine was initially set at 45, which was way too low. I changed it to 60 which is pretty close. This is good enough for now, but I think I should still at least maybe have a Samsung Tech look at the set in case there is something else wrong with the set.

fromstart, I notice yours is at 39... is there any reason that the difference is so big for different sets?

Very glad to hear you fixed the problem.
Index delay value is fixed in the manufacturing process and once fixed, it needs not change and when you change there is no side-effect except PQ.
I think your TV was abnormally adjusted in the factory...but once you fixed the value, there will be no other problems...(Believe me!!)

My Set is 5688 model and this model's BEST index delay is maybe between 30~40
and may differ from each set!! (I think there needs not call service man too)
Thanks,

Have a back light or other ambient light on when you watch your TV reduces the amount of Rainbows that some people see.As I mentioned in my post, backlighting is one of the basics that Mirton and I have already done. My list goes beyond the usual adjustments and suggestions that have been presented before.

Now, with beer in hand, I can still achieve relatively rainbow-free nirvana with a DLP!

Gary

Whoa! That sounds weird. It's unlikely to be a DMD/lens issue... perhaps a bit of mirror warpage (right behind the screen).

Gary

My HL-R6168W's display image looks something like this:


+---------------------------------------------------------------------+
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
| |
|_____ |
\_____ |
\_________________________________________________________|
It is actually not that exaggerated. Each "stair step" is only a couple of millimeters. It does not bother me much, but if it is fixable, I would like to get it fixed.

Has anyone else had an image issue like this fixed?

Thanks,

John

My HL-R6168W's display image looks something like this:

It is actually not that exaggerated. Each "stair step" is only a couple of millimeters. It does not bother me much, but if it is fixable, I would like to get it fixed.

Has anyone else had an image issue like this fixed? I think you should have it fixed. It MAY simply need adjustment. Call Samsung.

Gary

As a newbie to HD, now I am watching HBO HD, HD Net Movies, TNT HD etc. Have these movies/shows been converted to HD format? The clarity and detail is very good, but obviously they were not shot in HD.

Also in my quest to find out what shows are broadcast in 1080, I ran across this article which was encouraging regarding 1080/24p productions:
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0HNN/is_9_19/ai_n6230616

Thanks

I have a 5678 with geometry off 1/4 inch on right. I had another unit scheduled to come Saturday, but opted to call Samsung to see if they could adjust the DMD board based on the replacement reports I have read.

The tech called today and claimed he could fix it and will be here Monday. I will report back the results. The good news is I can still get a replacement from Tweeter if I am not happy.

Thanks StallionRe. I would appreciate it if you could let me know what the rear dimension is of the glass shelf given it tapers back. Ie. is the back portion of the shelf 42" wide?

Rich
I measured the shelf. Here are the demensions: The tapered edge is 42" wide and the none tapered is 48" wide. You can flip the glass around to either have the tapered edge in the rear or in the front I have mine in the front. I think that it gives the shelf a more dynamic look.

I'm sorry to keep asking this question, but can someone else check their Index delay setting in the Service Menu?

When you enter service menu (start with TV off, press mute-1-8-2-power) you will see DDP1011 at the top. Then, press enter while highlighted on DDP1011 and you will find "Index Delay" Menu. Whatever that number says is what I'm looking for.

FYI-You won't mess anything up as long as you don't change any values, so you can just hit power to turn off again and then start back up as normal. If anyone can help me with this it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

The number that I have on my screen is DDP1011(L8) and Gamma is 2(video).
The index Delay is 45. Does this help out?

My HL-R6168W's display image looks something like this:

It is actually not that exaggerated. Each "stair step" is only a couple of millimeters. It does not bother me much, but if it is fixable, I would like to get it fixed.

Has anyone else had an image issue like this fixed?

Thanks,

John

The bottom edge of my 6168W looks like... (see attached). The service guy will be here tomorrow at 9am to take a look at it.

I took many pics of my TV today and I when I uploaded them to attach them to a post, they said that the KB is too large. Upload error). I need to retake these Pictures in VGA mode from my camera. I am learning this brand new digital camera that I got today.

But to confirm with everyone, The DNIe is a demo on/off nothing else on the 6178. While taking Pics of my 5688, the power went out and the TV will not power up now. I was taking a picture of the DNIe that can be changed from on/off, then the Demo DNIe on/off. I need to call service rep for my 5688.

stallion: there comes a time when one either puts up or shuts up. In your case, I don't have a clue which is which. It is almost late evening and you haven't posted pictures of the screen shots depicting your claims. All you need is ONE screen shot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Is that so difficult???????????

Either post the screen shots or apologize to the board for making a mistake.

Many of us are here to learn what "ground truth" is with regards to the new Samsung TVs.

Mistakes are made. None of us are perfect. Prove your case, one way or another.

But, it is time for the truth to bubble to the surface.

stallion: there comes a time when one either puts up or shuts up. In your case, I don't have a clue which is which. It is almost late evening and you haven't posted pictures of the screen shots depicting your claims. All you need is ONE screen shot!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Is that so difficult???????????

Either post the screen shots or apologize to the board for making a mistake.

Many of us are here to learn what "ground truth" is with regards to the new Samsung TVs.

Mistakes are made. None of us are perfect. Prove your case, one way or another.

But, it is time for the truth to bubble to the surface.
I will post some pics, Relax man. The files are too large, didnt you read my post from above. Chill. I will retake the pics. I am not home. I am only home for 5 hours a day. It is not difficult at all. Like I said I had the shot and the file was too large to upload. 773kb. The uploads on this forum can be only 500kb. This is my limit to post. Do you have something different? I will put up tomorrow. Come back and see it tomorrow ok. Thanks. Have a good night and rest. We all have bad days, some are worst than others.
I already apologized to everyone about 3 times that I made a mistake.
Now on the 5688 I am correct. When I get mine fixed I will send a pic.

I took many pics of my TV today and I when I uploaded them to attach them to a post, they said that the KB is too large. Upload error). I need to retake these Pictures in VGA mode from my camera. I am learning this brand new digital camera that I got today.

But to confirm with everyone, The DNIe is a demo on/off nothing else on the 6178. While taking Pics of my 5688, the power went out and the TV will not power up now. I was taking a picture of the DNIe that can be changed from on/off, then the Demo DNIe on/off. I need to call service rep for my 5688.

This is very confusing... I thought you already admitted you were wrong about the DNIe setting? Here's a quote from your post:


Adding to this post, I will take pictures of my settings. Including the DNIe. However, I am wrong about that DNIe setting. :( I hold my head in shame and want to pass this situtation. ;)

I took many pics of my TV today and I when I uploaded them to attach them to a post, they said that the KB is too large. Upload error). I need to retake these Pictures in VGA mode from my camera. I am learning this brand new digital camera that I got today.

Stallion:

Email the pics to me at mfenech1@yahoo.com

I'll get them posted for you, and you can work on your TV.

For those of you that bought at Tweeters last weekend: I went by and there was a 10% discount sale. The "list" price minus the 10% was no where near TVA's price on the 6168.

Was there some other advertised or unadvertised discount that you were able to take advantage of?

Just wondering.

The number that I have on my screen is DDP1011(L8) and Gamma is 2(video).
The index Delay is 45. Does this help out?

That helps in the sense that it proves that everyone's set is different. Mine seems to look best somewhere near 60.

I still can't seem to tell if my picture is perfect or not though. It looks pretty much the same as my original set that I had replaced because of the red static issue (the red static is not on this set though), so I'm still contemplating having a tech come. Probably not necessary. I think the only thing they'd probably change is the index delay setting, which I've done.

Stallion: OK, I'll be watching.

But, I am curious about one thing. What do you do for the other 19 hours a day that you aren't home that let's you post on this and other boards so often?

Not a flame! Just wondering?????

That helps in the sense that it proves that everyone's set is different. Mine seems to look best somewhere near 60.

I still can't seem to tell if my picture is perfect or not though. It looks pretty much the same as my original set that I had replaced because of the red static issue (the red static is not on this set though), so I'm still contemplating having a tech come. Probably not necessary. I think the only thing they'd probably change is the index delay setting, which I've done.
Clorox, you are very welcome. I am glad that I can help. What does this number mean? I can see that all sets are different, because the index delay for my 5688 is 52. This leads me to believe that all sets are different. See what I mean.

Also thanks for getting my back about someone trying to start all over again. No need for this. We are all cool now. Mature, smart and want to help and learn from now on. Some people dont read all the post and then they say something that should not be.

Chris

As a newbie to HD, now I am watching HBO HD, HD Net Movies, TNT HD etc. Have these movies/shows been converted to HD format? The clarity and detail is very good, but obviously they were not shot in HD.

Also in my quest to find out what shows are broadcast in 1080, I ran across this article which was encouraging regarding 1080/24p productions:
http://www.findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0HNN/is_9_19/ai_n6230616

Thanks

I think most movies are just up-shifted SD DVD's. I have a large movie collection (1000+) and for a while was comparing my up-shifted DVD's to HBO, Showtime movies and they looked the same.

Stallion: OK, I'll be watching.

But, I am curious about one thing. What do you do for the other 19 hours a day that you aren't home that let's you post on this and other boards so often?

Not a flame! Just wondering?????
I write these post, HA HA JK. :D I carry around a laptop all day and place orders, email my clients with troubleshooting techniques about computers and software repairs. Also I direct stage hands and producers for the movie and news World, etc for the WB/Tribune company in CA, IL, FL, NY, TX, CO, WA, NJ, ND, SD, TN, NV, and Canada.. So I am always wireless on my computers while I travel. Sometimes I am not home for 3 months straight. I have 5 computers at home, three laptops and two computers/PDA/Blackberries at my office.

This sums up that I am a computer GEEK!! for 19 hours a day. :eek:

Not a flame here, thanks for asking. I am cool about it. :)

Hi to all the already-owners of the 1080p displays (still waiting for mine);
I just purchased the Samsung 950, but after all the bad press on this board I am thinking twice if I should keep it (by the time my 6768 arrives I might not be able to return it anymore).
Is the consensus at this point that the 950 is sub-par for use specifically on the 1080p displays ? Does the HDMI in really display an annoying audio warning every time (I would not play DVD audio through the TV anyway, but the warning must be annoying!?)? And what's the final word about BTB?

Alternatively, has anyone tried the new Denon 1920 ? It looks like a great Player for the money, but I am wondering about it Fli 23x chip; does it exhibit the macroblocking bug on the Samsungs ?!

Any input greatly appreciated :-)

Thanks<
Dan

Goob, what calibration tool is that graph pattern from?

WTR1, I paid for my 5678 on Saturday. There was a "Private Sale" Tweeter has maybe twice a year for those prior customers already on their mailing list. I don't know if there is a minimum purchase you need to have spent to get on their "list?" The price I paid matched TVA PB price and they took more off since me and my friend each bought one so I actually paid under TVA's PB price. My friend has his but hasn't bothered to open it up yet if you can believe it. Mine is "due in" on Monday but after reading all of these posts I don't see how being on the east coast and ordering it last week see how I can get it ahead of others here? I don't want to start an east coast west coast thing here.

Goob, what calibration tool is that graph pattern from?



Its just my desktop background on my HTPC. I created it in MS Paint to demonstrate the issue to the tech.

I'm sorry to keep asking this question, but can someone else check their Index delay setting in the Service Menu?

When you enter service menu (start with TV off, press mute-1-8-2-power) you will see DDP1011 at the top. Then, press enter while highlighted on DDP1011 and you will find "Index Delay" Menu. Whatever that number says is what I'm looking for.

FYI-You won't mess anything up as long as you don't change any values, so you can just hit power to turn off again and then start back up as normal. If anyone can help me with this it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Clorox,
My 6168's Index Delay is set at 65 from the factory. BTW, PQ is exceptional at that setting.

Goob, very cool and a good idea. Maybe add some circles and it could look like a NTSC test pattern? Go a step further and add color to see if there is any bleeding or something?

I was kind of wondering about that to. As I'm probably one of the bad people I don't have much to lose so here's my recollection of the saga...
There was a DNIe on/off setting on the 68/78.
Lots of back and forth to try and get clarification.
No DNIe on/off on the 68/78.
The 88 came into the picture and it was that TV that had DNIe on/off.
Lots of back and forth to try and get clarification.
No-one else's 88 has DNIe on/off, just DNIe demo.
When we asked for pictures the digital camera was broken.
Then there was the blow-up, the name-calling, the departure and the return.
Then he apparently purchased a new digital camera and would take some photos.
Then he said he was wrong and that there was no DNIe on/off in the 88. So no need for photos.
Then he wants to go into his service menu and fiddle with the color wheel settings (time enough to do that apparently but not the DNIe photos).
Now we are back to there being DNIe on/off in the 88. But that TV is now broken.
The photos of the DNIe menu are too big too upload.
Did I miss anything?
What gives? A Sherlock Holmes mystery is easier to follow than this!
So, whodunnit?This makes for a good movie, What to make one? Hee-hee? I think you quoted me wrong, But no, you too again, This was a dead issue, why are you trying to start trouble? STOP already!!! We are all good. I already set the record straight (clorox is behind me). Let's move on adults. Done, finish, what part did you miss? :eek:

I was kind of wondering about that to. As I'm probably one of the bad people I don't have much to lose so here's my recollection of the saga...
There was a DNIe on/off setting on the 68/78.
Lots of back and forth to try and get clarification.
No DNIe on/off on the 68/78.
The 88 came into the picture and it was that TV that had DNIe on/off.
Lots of back and forth to try and get clarification.
No-one else's 88 has DNIe on/off, just DNIe demo.
When we asked for pictures the digital camera was broken.
Then there was the blow-up, the name-calling, the departure and the return.
Then he apparently purchased a new digital camera and would take some photos.
Then he said he was wrong and that there was no DNIe on/off in the 88. So no need for photos.
Then he wants to go into his service menu and fiddle with the color wheel settings (time enough to do that apparently but not the DNIe photos).
Now we are back to there being DNIe on/off in the 88. But that TV is now broken.
The photos of the DNIe menu are too big too upload.
Did I miss anything?
What gives? A Sherlock Holmes mystery is easier to follow than this!
So, whodunnit?I already uploaded my photos to Mike. :) He is working with them. So I am trying to work with you. Please give me some slack. I didnt mess up that bad. Come on man, Chill and relax. :D You need it.
I am not starting up again to go over the same thing that you keep repeating. What is in the past is in the past. A new day for a new dollar. If you read it well, it is not that hard to follow, forget it then. Move on already. ;)
Thanks. :)

We can see by other post, IE index delay, that the TV's are all different. So maybe I am right. I would love to give you the photo of the 88. I will do my best, to take my stand. I need the repair man to fix mine first, No power. Transformer maybe?

I write these post, HA HA JK. :D I carry around a laptop all day and place orders, email my clients with troubleshooting techniques about computers and software repairs. Also I direct stage hands and producers for the movie and news World, etc for the WB/Tribune company in CA, IL, FL, NY, TX, CO, WA, NJ, ND, SD, TN, NV, and Canada.. So I am always wireless on my computers while I travel. Sometimes I am not home for 3 months straight. I have 5 computers at home, three laptops and two computers/PDA/Blackberries at my office.

This sums up that I am a computer GEEK!! for 19 hours a day. :eek:

Not a flame here, thanks for asking. I am cool about it. :)

Stallion... No need to retake the pictures, just resize them and it will reduce the size of the image.....

There was a "Private Sale" Tweeter has maybe twice a year for those prior customers already on their mailing list.

Interesting..I am on their "list" and the private sale here was just 10% off of MSRP...not even close to TVA's price..

Here we go...

set 2