i won't feel remorse until Eliab tells me that the HP is the best TV he has ever calibrated. Out of the 1080p sets he has calibrated, he stills prefers the Samsung.

Just got my HLR 6168 yesterday - spent all of the afternoon setting it up. All this talk of HP and true 1080p is not getting me down! I am so thrilled to finally have my TV - after months and months of analysis (paralysis) and waiting.

Looks like I have to change my login ID around here!

PS: Haven't watched too much - but so far everything looks just stunning out of the box. Wife is mighty impressed too. I will get it caliberated 6 months or so down the line.

Setup: HLR 6168, Oppo DVD player on HDMI1, Comcast HD-DVR 6412 on Component I (soon to be upgraded to Mark III and HDMI2). Denon AVR. Viewing distance 10-11'. BUSH 60" TV stand bought from Best Buy (it works and looks great IMHO).

Will post a picture if guys are interested. Thanks for bearing with me! :cool:

And oh yeah - many thanks to UCSB, htwaits and all the others on this forum for making it such a useful and amazing resource.

How does the PC look on the desktop? If it looks fine I would think the problem could be the DVD even? Have you tried another DVD? What about WMVHD?

ok, thanks for the questions and comments so far. right now based on this input - and input from the Home Theatre Computer forum - i'm going to get off the vga and onto the DVI output port (even tho others have reported good VGA results). i'll also look around for a WMVHD file it there are some to download. but i guess i'm perpelexed as to why a video card that is outputting a "purevideo high def signal in 1080p" looks worse (a LOT worse) than an old 480i dvd player (component cables) that's doing no "image enhancement". the pictures i posted above are from the same Blue Man Group DVD - looks good with 480i and bad with HTPC. looks the same (bad) using the desktop monitor. we'll see if DVI helps ...

thanks again for the constructive input

Please explain your wireless setup...I want to do the same thing

I bought the discounted DLink discounted 54mbps router and PCI card here http://www.buy.com/prod/D_Link_Wireless_Cable_DSL_Router_4_Port_Switch_802_11G_54Mbp s/q/loc/101/10362363.html. BUT CAUTION: not clear the DWL-G510 card can hack it. I get "Very Low Signal" just 50' away between LR and Office. I think the router is ok because my laptop sitting right next to the HTPC gets "Very Good". It has a Broadcom adapter in it.

I will say the whole thing fired up pretty easy: stick the card in your pc, plug the cable from cable modem into the router and follow setup wizard's instructions to configure.

1BE -- I would stick with VGA and try to figure out how to configure your video card. I would also download the trial version of Theatertek or another DVD player. Have you updated to the latest NVIDIA drivers in literall the last day or so? NVIDIA just put out v81.85 that apparently fixed some problems with HD output.... Good luck...

One more thing-- turn on the NVIDIA Pure Video post-processing in Theatertek.

Just got my HLR 6168 yesterday - spent all of the afternoon setting it up. All this talk of HP and true 1080p is not getting me down! I am so thrilled to finally have my TV - after months and months of analysis (paralysis) and waiting.

Looks like I have to change my login ID around here!

PS: Haven't watched too much - but so far everything looks just stunning out of the box. Wife is mighty impressed too. I will get it caliberated 6 months or so down the line.

Setup: HLR 6168, Oppo DVD player on HDMI1, Comcast HD-DVR 6412 on Component I (soon to be upgraded to Mark III and HDMI2). Denon AVR. Viewing distance 10-11'. BUSH 60" TV stand bought from Best Buy (it works and looks great IMHO).

Will post a picture if guys are interested. Thanks for bearing with me! :cool:

And oh yeah - many thanks to UCSB, htwaits and all the others on this forum for making it such a useful and amazing resource.

congrats man!

I'm not disappointed with my Samsung 5688 1080p TV, just that I wanted to make this my one purchase that would last me 10 yrs + like my old Sony Trinitron CRT from 1989 did until it gave out last month.

People say that 1080p is mostly non-existent, but I disagree, I would bet we'll start to see more 1080 content by mid 2006 & far more beyond that.

Expect the numerous Electronic Co's to announce alot more HD 1080p content during CES2006.

I just wished Samsung could have found a way to allow both 1080p & 5.1 Ch sound to pass through the HDMI connections on the 1080p Samsung sets released this year.

It just sticks in the back of my head that once 1080p becomes more of a standard, a lot of us will be wishing the same , instead we'll probably be back here in these very forums talking about trading in or getting another Samsung 1080p HDTV down the road that can accept both 1080p & 5.1, 6.1, 7.1, 10.1 Ch surround sound via the HDMI ports.

congrats man!

I'm not disappointed with my Samsung 5688 1080p TV, just that I wanted to make this my one purchase that would last me 10 yrs + like my old Sony Trinitron CRT from 1989 did until it gave out last month.

People say that 1080p is mostly non-existent, but I disagree, I would bet we'll start to see more 1080 content by mid 2006 & far more beyond that.

Expect the numerous Electronic Co's to announce alot more HD 1080p content during CES2006.

I just wished Samsung could have found a way to allow both 1080p & 5.1 Ch sound to pass through the HDMI connections on the 1080p Samsung sets released this year.

It just sticks in the back of my head that once 1080p becomes more of a standard, a lot of us will be wishing the same , instead we'll probably be back here in these very forums talking about trading in or getting another Samsung 1080p HDTV down the road that can accept both 1080p & 5.1, 6.1, 7.1, 10.1 Ch surround sound via the HDMI ports.


You could be right but given the very small amount of HD content available out there right now, I don't see that there will be a big push toward 1080p anytime soon. I fully expect this TV to last for 5+ years after which I for one wouldn't mind shopping for the latest and greatest around at that time. :p

Remember that the prices keep coming down on tvs. In 2-3 years you might change your tv simply because it's affordable to buy a better one.

One more thing-- turn on the NVIDIA Pure Video post-processing in Theatertek.

ok, here's the result of the DVI test. DVD was a little better but still worse than old 480i player. Computer monitor display was egregious! I mean completely unacceptable. VGA was much much better (for computer display). See attached 3rd picture, and it's not a bad photo, it's the way the screen and text really look! Almost like a bad cable but we know that cable is good because I use it to drive my HDMI2 signal from STD.

I like the suggestion that we stick with VGA and get it working right, because I think it is somewhere in the hardware/software/driver/filters/postprocessing or whatever. The reason I say that is that the motherboard has an onboard vga and the signal out of it is every bit as good as what's coming out of the Nvidia GEFORCE 6200. Or another way to put it is the DVD's are equally bad.

thanks for the good suggestions on Theatertex and PureVideo - I'll try it.

if i remember correctly, theatertek is the only dvd software player that will integrate with media center. they have a 14 day trial.

Did you find a cheap VGA cable? That is probably the problem since you said the video card could handle HD.

ok, here's the result of the DVI test. DVD was a little better but still worse than old 480i player. Computer monitor display was egregious! I mean completely unacceptable. VGA was much much better (for computer display). See attached 3rd picture, and it's not a bad photo, it's the way the screen and text really look! Almost like a bad cable but we know that cable is good because I use it to drive my HDMI2 signal from STD.

I like the suggestion that we stick with VGA and get it working right, because I think it is somewhere in the hardware/software/driver/filters/postprocessing or whatever. The reason I say that is that the motherboard has an onboard vga and the signal out of it is every bit as good as what's coming out of the Nvidia GEFORCE 6200. Or another way to put it is the DVD's are equally bad.

thanks for the good suggestions on Theatertex and PureVideo - I'll try it.

I experienced the same horrid desktop display when using DVI->HDMI. VGA is certainly the way to go. I use ZoomPlayer Pro with NVIDIA DVD decoder and get very pleasing results.

Hello All,

I'm sure it's buried somwhere in the 210 pages on this thread, but will it possible to have the HDMI inputs on the 68's upgraded to accept 1080p? I have a week old 6768 and along with others am a little concerned that I'll be sitting on the sidelines next year when the new players come out. My gut feeling is that the answer is no, otherwise there wouldn't be as many concerned posts.

Thanks,

Brad

HD-DVD will only output 1080i, so that won't be an issue. We'll have to wait and see for 1080P on Blu-Ray. I'll believe it when i see it.

I too was concerned but I'm just thinking now I doubt most sets like LCD that were sold before the Sammys would have 1080p either. The other thing is they can't broadcast 1080p so that won't be an issue due to bandwidth. Still I'd like to know the newest set has the newest inputs. That's why I waited for HDMI, I would've jumped and bought a DVI plasma. True it isn't 1080, but you want to be sure your investment will be compatible.

two week report on my 6178 HLP:

Many hours of High Def sports from my Moto 6214 dual tuner, 5 or 6 DVD on my Panny s97, too many hours of my son playing GameCube high def Madden 06 and NHL live. Zero hours worrying about 1080P inputs, all is well.

Wow, glad to find an owners thread. I just got my 50" 1080p set, which is replacing my 61" 720p set that is now dedicated strictly to home theater.

Forgive me if this has already been discussed but I want to get my complaint in first and then dig through the 200+ pages of this thread.

I'm not a happy camper so far. I've been watching HD cable over HDMI and I noticed that the sides on 4x3 content have a pincushion or hourglass effect. No user level adjustment, and no service mode adjustments. While watching football this weekend in HD, I also noticed the yardlines were distorted. This is one of the reasons I love DLP to begin with, the perfect screen geometry I experienced with my previous set. Frustrated, I called Samsung and to their credit they sent a tech to my home to "fix" the problem.

I couldn't be home but according to my wife, the guy's solution was to stretch everything so I wouldn't see the edges (which of course I will notice I'm anal about this stuff) and went through effort to set my cable box to stretch 4:3 content. Of course the whole time he was complaining how everything in America sucks and it's the crappy Motorola's fault (ignoring my Korean television and equally bad results with my Japanese DVD player).

In the end he fiddled with the projector (and apparently some double sided tape holding it on to something) and repalced the screen. All the while he insisted that all these sets have this problem and it isn't worth it to return the unit for a new one. However, I am furious because the problem is still bad, at best it's just a different bad than it was before this service visit. I am outraged because my old DLP set was terrific and using it with a computer belied its perfect geometry. There is no way I can live with it the way it is.

Do you think it's a defect like a curve in the mirror? Are other owners seeing this problem?

I have a similar problem. I'm in the process of getting it exchanged since they aren't all like this or we would have heard more people complain about it. My packaging was all smashed when they delivered it so I thought the set could be damaged from shipping. Whether or not that is the case I would prefer a set delivered in perfect condition.

All the sets by every manufacturer has that pin cushion. I think 1/4" between the middle and the top and bottom are within spec. My 61" Samsung is just under 1/4". The few times I watch programs that are in 4:3, it's not really that noticeable to me, but less than 10% of my viewing is in a 4:3 aspect ratio.

Wow, glad to find an owners thread. I just got my 50" 1080p set, which is replacing my 61" 720p set that is now dedicated strictly to home theater.

Forgive me if this has already been discussed but I want to get my complaint in first and then dig through the 200+ pages of this thread.

I'm not a happy camper so far. I've been watching HD cable over HDMI and I noticed that the sides on 4x3 content have a pincushion or hourglass effect. No user level adjustment, and no service mode adjustments. While watching football this weekend in HD, I also noticed the yardlines were distorted. This is one of the reasons I love DLP to begin with, the perfect screen geometry I experienced with my previous set. Frustrated, I called Samsung and to their credit they sent a tech to my home to "fix" the problem.

I couldn't be home but according to my wife, the guy's solution was to stretch everything so I wouldn't see the edges (which of course I will notice I'm anal about this stuff) and went through effort to set my cable box to stretch 4:3 content. Of course the whole time he was complaining how everything in America sucks and it's the crappy Motorola's fault (ignoring my Korean television and equally bad results with my Japanese DVD player).

In the end he fiddled with the projector (and apparently some double sided tape holding it on to something) and repalced the screen. All the while he insisted that all these sets have this problem and it isn't worth it to return the unit for a new one. However, I am furious because the problem is still bad, at best it's just a different bad than it was before this service visit. I am outraged because my old DLP set was terrific and using it with a computer belied its perfect geometry. There is no way I can live with it the way it is.

Do you think it's a defect like a curve in the mirror? Are other owners seeing this problem?

Some degree of curvature is normal on virtually every set. Occassionally, we hear reports that it is more severe or less severe. It is present on both my 1080p and 720p Samsung DLP's. I consider it a characteristic of attempting to project a large image in a relatively narrow cabinet. Ignore it, you will get used to it.

After review this forum for a number of weeks - four weeks back I ordered a Samsung 1080P HL R5668W - I actually liked the "floating screen" model VS
the one piece screen and speaker. Since these were new - they had none in stock, but 10 on order - due in 3 weeks

Well it arrived last Sunday - the drivers
placed it on my family room floor - along with the Samsung stand - that required about 90 minutes of construction - after running to radio shack to purchase the hdmi cable for my new sa8300hd - i was all set.

everything worked fine - except in the middle of the screen at the bottom - there appeared to be a "back mark" about 4 inches long and 2 inches high - i looked
like tape - with a torn edge. you could see it with the TV off - but with the TV on
this area continued to be black

Took pictures with my digital camera and took the camera to where i had purchased - PC Richards (the only store in nj in 25 miles that had this model). The store manager started with - "did you sign for it" - to - we will have to send out a service tech - I was able to convince him that if he really wanted to be paid - he should replace it -

Well, wednesday this week - the new TV came - BTW - used it for the 3 days - this
set is stunning and worth every dollar - they brought the new one in - powered it
up - and would you believe - the same problem - not as large a black mark - but
same place. Driver - who I made stay - noticed it right away - hey - do you want them to take some money off the price and just keep it -- not really!!

He called it in - and I signed - but noted the issue.

So today - my third TV came - same driver - and the 3rd one is a charm!!!

Just thought I would post - to let other know what to look out for

pbp

Does anyone know how to delay the audio coming from the TV speakers? I can't find it anywhere in the settings. I know from reading that it was possible on the HLPs, but did it go away with the HLRs?

Thanks,

You know the second set was probably the first right? That's they way its usually done I think. I kicked myself when I forgot to note the serial number on my second set. I still have my first but I'm willing to be my third will be my second I won't know for sure. In my case the box and packaging on the first set was all smashed up. The second set I kept on the truck since the box was smashed. I have the pin cushioning really bad, black plastic specs or something all over and the smudge issue. For these prices the box and set should be in perfect condition.

Can somebody recommend a good dealer in South Florida?

Wow, glad to find an owners thread. I just got my 50" 1080p set, which is replacing my 61" 720p set that is now dedicated strictly to home theater.

Forgive me if this has already been discussed but I want to get my complaint in first and then dig through the 200+ pages of this thread.

I'm not a happy camper so far. I've been watching HD cable over HDMI and I noticed that the sides on 4x3 content have a pincushion or hourglass effect. No user level adjustment, and no service mode adjustments. While watching football this weekend in HD, I also noticed the yardlines were distorted. This is one of the reasons I love DLP to begin with, the perfect screen geometry I experienced with my previous set. Frustrated, I called Samsung and to their credit they sent a tech to my home to "fix" the problem.

I couldn't be home but according to my wife, the guy's solution was to stretch everything so I wouldn't see the edges (which of course I will notice I'm anal about this stuff) and went through effort to set my cable box to stretch 4:3 content. Of course the whole time he was complaining how everything in America sucks and it's the crappy Motorola's fault (ignoring my Korean television and equally bad results with my Japanese DVD player).

In the end he fiddled with the projector (and apparently some double sided tape holding it on to something) and repalced the screen. All the while he insisted that all these sets have this problem and it isn't worth it to return the unit for a new one. However, I am furious because the problem is still bad, at best it's just a different bad than it was before this service visit. I am outraged because my old DLP set was terrific and using it with a computer belied its perfect geometry. There is no way I can live with it the way it is.

Do you think it's a defect like a curve in the mirror? Are other owners seeing this problem?

On my HLR5668W the curvature is < 1/8 " (perhaps 1/16 ") at the center. Hardly noticeable.

Some degree of curvature is normal on virtually every set. Occassionally, we hear reports that it is more severe or less severe. It is present on both my 1080p and 720p Samsung DLP's. I consider it a characteristic of attempting to project a large image in a relatively narrow cabinet. Ignore it, you will get used to it.

For what it's worth, I have a 5078 and it has a pincushion that at it's worst is 1/8 of an inch. Never even knew it was there until I read some of the last few posts.

Mine looks like this, ) ( maybe not as bad but worse than what has been described here. I usually sit to the right side of the set and the bottom left text in VGA 1080p PC mode and HD STB using 1080 HDMI on the left looks more like this / than ). Hope that makes sense. I actually get a dizzy feeling when looking at the ) (. I don't see why it can't be l l ?

Mine looks like this, ) ( maybe not as bad but worse than what has been described here. I usually sit to the right side of the set and the bottom left text in VGA 1080p PC mode and HD STB using 1080 HDMI on the left looks more like this / than ). Hope that makes sense. I actually get a dizzy feeling when looking at the ) (. I don't see why it can't be l l ?

You have brought up an interesting point ... I have wondered what role the source component plays in this problem. It never occured to me that the source component could be a contributor, but I recently upgraded my Motorola 6412 HD DVR to a Motorola 6412 III (phase III) and it seemed like the problem was reduced on that component. I have the Motorola set to 480i for SD broadcasts, so it is not letterboxing it in the Motorola. My DVD player on the other HDMI input displays about < 1/8 ", not exactly equal to the Motorola at 1/16 ".

Anyway, I don't have an answer on this one ... just thought it was an interesting observation.

You have brought up an interesting point ... I have wondered what role the source component plays in this problem. It never occured to me that the source component could be a contributor, but I recently upgraded my Motorola 6412 HD DVR to a Motorola 6412 III (phase III) and it seemed like the problem was reduced on that component. I have the Motorola set to 480i for SD broadcasts, so it is not letterboxing it in the Motorola. My DVD player on the other HDMI input displays about < 1/8 ", not exactly equal to the Motorola at 1/16 ".

Anyway, I don't have an answer on this one ... just thought it was an interesting observation.

Bill, How are you liking the Phase III 6412? Do you also observe the improved PQ for sd channels? How do you think it compares to sd channels sent directly to the tv (by-passing the 6412)?

Bill, How are you liking the Phase III 6412? Do you also observe the improved PQ for sd channels? How do you think it compares to sd channels sent directly to the tv (by-passing the 6412)?

I'm really glad I upgraded to the 6412 III. SD is definitely much better ... in fact, I think it is good enough that I won't be using the Samsung's internal tuners any more. My thinking is, why give up DVR functionality on SD now. I also like the fact that the TV gets it's audio stream via HDMI. This allows me to use the TV's speakers when I am just listening to CNN or a similar channel. Overall, it seems to operate a little quieter. Highly recommended.

Holy crap. I recieved my HDTV 5678W 1080p telesion 2 weeks ago and completely forgot about this thread. I wanted to talk about my TV the day I got it, and here I am enjoying the TV too much to post in this thread.

What can I really say about this TV except it is fantastic. In every way shape and form this HDTV blows me away. I can not believe there is all of this negative feedback in this thread. Though I have been on internet messageboards for years and know the tricks of people pushing for their products and exaggerating flaws they've heard about with competitors.

First off my games run fantastically. I do not notice any slowdown while playing games. I should give you a list of my main games though.
*Soul Caliber II
*THUG
*THUG II
*Mortal Kombat: Deception
*NBA 2k5
*Super Mario Sunshine
*Day of Reckoning 2

So at least I know these games have zero slowdown. I suppose I am a little disappointed with how crappy the games can look like on a 1080p television. Though that's the payoff isn't it? When I touched a button the character did the move instaneously.

I haven't had any synch problems with audio myself.

TV stations look better when the station broadcasts in 1080i for me, well and if they are putting out a better signal. INHD/INHD2 and DiscHD are the best channels for me. Crystal clear pictures every time even with fast motion. Watching sports on Fox or shows on ABC always look a little bit weaker then 1080i feeds. (broadcast in 720p) Plus I've felt the networks are skimping a tad on the signal. (due to multi-casting?)

Regular standard definition tv stations look like crap. It just will not improve until a better feed comes along. If you are contemplating buying a HDTV and you watch 90% SD tv shows. The tv will show you exactly how craptapular those SD feeds are.

The only thing holding this and any HDTV's back is High Definition content. It's still well worth, but how can you really test this HDTV out right now? I can't wait to see how well this works once BD (blu-ray) 1080p movies come out. Once that happens it'll be nice to see how us with 1080p TV's can take advantage of the media. (hdmi doesn't support 1080p lines)

Hi folks, after months of reading and viewing in different stores I finally made my decision on the HLR6168-W. I will move on tomorrow. The last thing I need to understand is Audio Lag on this set. I will not use the set for gaming. HD sports and DVD (Oppo) only. Can you tell me if the audio lag is a problem only with gaming. Some people seem to have problems with DVD also. Is there any kind of set-up I can use to avoid this issue? I will also use a receiver but I don't want to play with audio sync for each DVD I want to watch. Any comment from you guys would be trully helpfull.

Thanks

Hi folks, after months of reading and viewing in different stores I finally made my decision on the HLR6168-W. I will move on tomorrow. The last thing I need to understand is Audio Lag on this set. I will not use the set for gaming. HD sports and DVD (Oppo) only. Can you tell me if the audio lag is a problem only with gaming. Some people seem to have problems with DVD also. Is there any kind of set-up I can use to avoid this issue? I will also use a receiver but I don't want to play with audio sync for each DVD I want to watch. Any comment from you guys would be trully helpfull.

Thanks

I have not noticed any lag with either the Denon 3910 or the 59AVi
DVD players.

I have noticed lag sometimes on Satellite HD channels particularly
some of the Voom channels and DiscoveryHD...

Holy crap. I recieved my HDTV 5678W 1080p telesion 2 weeks ago and completely forgot about this thread. I wanted to talk about my TV the day I got it, and here I am enjoying the TV too much to post in this thread.

What can I really say about this TV except it is fantastic. In every way shape and form this HDTV blows me away. I can not believe there is all of this negative feedback in this thread. Though I have been on internet messageboards for years and know the tricks of people pushing for their products and exaggerating flaws they've heard about with competitors.

First off my games run fantastically. I do not notice any slowdown while playing games. I should give you a list of my main games though.
*Soul Caliber II
*THUG
*THUG II
*Mortal Kombat: Deception
*NBA 2k5
*Super Mario Sunshine
*Day of Reckoning 2

So at least I know these games have zero slowdown. I suppose I am a little disappointed with how crappy the games can look like on a 1080p television. Though that's the payoff isn't it? When I touched a button the character did the move instaneously.

I haven't had any synch problems with audio myself.

TV stations look better when the station broadcasts in 1080i for me, well and if they are putting out a better signal. INHD/INHD2 and DiscHD are the best channels for me. Crystal clear pictures every time even with fast motion. Watching sports on Fox or shows on ABC always look a little bit weaker then 1080i feeds. (broadcast in 720p) Plus I've felt the networks are skimping a tad on the signal. (due to multi-casting?)

Regular standard definition tv stations look like crap. It just will not improve until a better feed comes along. If you are contemplating buying a HDTV and you watch 90% SD tv shows. The tv will show you exactly how craptapular those SD feeds are.

The only thing holding this and any HDTV's back is High Definition content. It's still well worth, but how can you really test this HDTV out right now? I can't wait to see how well this works once BD (blu-ray) 1080p movies come out. Once that happens it'll be nice to see how us with 1080p TV's can take advantage of the media. (hdmi doesn't support 1080p lines)

Glad to hear that you are not running into game lag. What version of Samsung 1080 DLP firmware are you running?

I've been gone from this thread a while but am curious: have there been many reports from persons who've gotten the 7178? How do you like it? (I tried a 'search' of the thread but didn't find anything.)

Miller, are you suffering from non-buyer's remorse :)

Miller, are you suffering from non-buyer's remorse :)

No, not at all! I have bought the Mits73727, but Magnolia was sold out of their first shipment by the time I made my decision, so am having to wait for the second batch (due last week, so hopefully in this coming week). If it should turn out that I'm unhappy with the Mits, though, I would likely return it for a Sammy 7178; so I am very interested in hearing how satisfied people are with the 7178. (As you can tell, I'm not a loyal partisan of any manufacturer, just looking for the best product. I was totally satisfied with my hlp 6163--which I still have until it is swapped for the Mits--just wanted to go for the larger size and the 1080p.)

So if any of you out there have gotten a 7178, please report on how you like it (or not).

Wow, what a long thread, but very helpful reading through it (most of it).
I've about decided I like the 56/61-68/78 Sammy if I had my choice, the
Toshiba as a second choice.

My unique delima starts like this. I have a 2 1/2 year old Hitachi CRT RP
tv that I bought from Circuit City. Picture-wise, I've been happy but the
thing has had numerours repair calls, and the current problem is an
intermittent problem that blanks the screen that they can't fix for over
a year. CC has now agreed to exchange it on a no-lemon exchange.

Its not every day you get the chance for a 2 1/2 year mulligan. However
CC may not have the model I want. They have told me I can
upgrade in the exchange by paying the diff. Assuming they value the
Hitachi replacement at $1000, I certainly don't want to through away
a $1000 credit. Its somewhat encouraging to see recent posts talking
about CC having these models. But they aren't on their web site....

Another option if they will go for it, is to use the CC money on a
home theatre audio system, and go pick up the TV I want from
somewhere else. Not sure they will do that tho.

I use the TV almost 100% of the time driving it from a Mythtv HTPC
computer (even HD), so the 1080P from VGA looks like it will be great.

Ideas of how to proceed?

I got my 6168 in mid-August as part of the TVA powerbuy. I have been ecstatic with it ever since, until yesterday. I watched football for over 5 hours in the afternoon, and then turned it off. Now, every time I turn it on, it goes through its usual startup sequence, starts functioning, and then about a minute later the screen goes blank, followed in 5 seconds by all three front lights blinking. According to the manual this is a lamp failure. Interesting, as the lamp functions just fine for a minute or so.

I left the unit unplugged overnight, then tried again today. Same symptoms. I did unplug the unit, open up the lamp area, and unplug/reseat the bulb assembly. No change.

I presume the next step is to call Samsung service? Does anyone have any alternate suggestions? Since the unit performed so flawlessly, I am reluctant for anyone to swap unneccessary pieces, as it could degrade my marvelous picture.

Thanks for any suggestions! I am located in Plano, TX, if there are any local experts in the audience.

I got my 6168 in mid-August as part of the TVA powerbuy. I have been ecstatic with it ever since, until yesterday. I watched football for over 5 hours in the afternoon, and then turned it off. Now, every time I turn it on, it goes through its usual startup sequence, starts functioning, and then about a minute later the screen goes blank, followed in 5 seconds by all three front lights blinking. According to the manual this is a lamp failure. Interesting, as the lamp functions just fine for a minute or so.

I left the unit unplugged overnight, then tried again today. Same symptoms. I did unplug the unit, open up the lamp area, and unplug/reseat the bulb assembly. No change.

I presume the next step is to call Samsung service? Does anyone have any alternate suggestions? Since the unit performed so flawlessly, I am reluctant for anyone to swap unneccessary pieces, as it could degrade my marvelous picture.

Thanks for any suggestions! I am located in Plano, TX, if there are any local experts in the audience.

Call Samsung support at 1-800-Samsung, they replace the lamp.

Wow, what a long thread, but very helpful reading through it (most of it).
I've about decided I like the 56/61-68/78 Sammy if I had my choice, the
Toshiba as a second choice.

My unique delima starts like this. I have a 2 1/2 year old Hitachi CRT RP
tv that I bought from Circuit City. Picture-wise, I've been happy but the
thing has had numerours repair calls, and the current problem is an
intermittent problem that blanks the screen that they can't fix for over
a year. CC has now agreed to exchange it on a no-lemon exchange.

Its not every day you get the chance for a 2 1/2 year mulligan. However
CC may not have the model I want. They have told me I can
upgrade in the exchange by paying the diff. Assuming they value the
Hitachi replacement at $1000, I certainly don't want to through away
a $1000 credit. Its somewhat encouraging to see recent posts talking
about CC having these models. But they aren't on their web site....

Another option if they will go for it, is to use the CC money on a
home theatre audio system, and go pick up the TV I want from
somewhere else. Not sure they will do that tho.

I use the TV almost 100% of the time driving it from a Mythtv HTPC
computer (even HD), so the 1080P from VGA looks like it will be great.

Ideas of how to proceed?

Whether you decide on the Toshba or Samsung, get the larger size. Alhough if you plan on 1080P over the vga, then the Samsung is the only choice for that.

Has ANYbody here gotten a 7178 yet?

Has ANYbody here gotten a 7178 yet?

I thought the screen sealed the deal for you?

Can somebody recommend a good dealer in South Florida?


I bought my 61" Samsung from Sound Advice in Jensen Beach. They have the new sets and provide good service and delivery. The sound Advice in West Palm is a bigger store.

Whether you decide on the Toshba or Samsung, get the larger size. Alhough if you plan on 1080P over the vga, then the Samsung is the only choice for that.

I'm leaning towards the 61 inch version, I sit 9-12 feet away.
I think the Toshiba MX195? also has vga inputs, but my first choice is Samsung.

I've only talked to CC on the phone so far and haven't mentioned
the 6168 (for example) tv yet so I don' t know if they can get it, or at what cost.

My concern is they may want so much for it, it will pretty much negate
my lemon exchange; vs shopping for the best deal. Cuz at some point,
it may be to my advantage to just take another CRT HD replacement,
then either sell it, keep it as a second, or use it for a year and shop again
later. While the $1000+ credit at CC is quite valuable, it can easilly be
burned up by overpaying on something else.

Brian

shop around for the best price and then go to Circuit City and try to get them to match it. once they agree, then you tell them that you have a 1k credit.

I'm leaning towards the 61 inch version, I sit 9-12 feet away.
I think the Toshiba MX195? also has vga inputs,.......

You may have missed the previous point. The Samsung is the ONLY TV that will do 1080p over vga. The Toshiba may have a vga connection, but it cannot do 1080p over that connection.

I still love my Sammy 6168 but I'd have to say my attempt to build an HTPC is a bust. I was chasing this goal of great "1:1 WMVHD" 1920:1080p DVD playback, so I bought all this "stuff". What I get is an okay computer monitor (from a distance - looks like SD) but really fuzzy DVD playback. The old 480i DVD player is light years better. I've tried tweaking everything from new drivers to diffferent refresh rates and resolutions - but to no avail. The only thing that looks good is the fishbowl screensaver. But I'm getting bored watching it for hours on end ... Anyway, here's the setup:

Biostar Motherboard with AMD 2600+ Sempron
512MB PC2700 DRAM
Gigabyte Nvida GEFORCE 6200T with PureVideo (this was supposed to be the key)
D-Link G510 Wireless card (so I can do Internet browsing from the couch)
Microsoft RF Optical Mouse and Keyboard (ditto)
Aspire X-QPACK case and power supply
High Quality VGA cable

Looks like about $700 bucks down the drain to me. Anybody have any thoughts?

I would be glad to help, but tell me a couple of things first:

1) Operating system?
2) nVidia graphics card driver?
3) DVD player software (e.g., Windows Media Player, TheatreTek, Zoom, InterVideo, PowerDVD, etc.)
4) MPEG-2 decoder? If you want to benefit from nVidia PureVideo technology, you may want to try nVidia PureVideo decoder ($20 for Bronze version).
5) Power supply rating?

Disable onboard video in your BIOS. Ditch the high quality VGA cable, and get a cheap VGA cable that came with your computer monitor. First make your HTPC work on regular computer monitor before you hook it up to Samsung DLP TV. If it does not work on computer monitor, chances are it will not improve on Samsung.

You may not be able to play WMV HD 1080p movies with that CPU without stuttering and other problems. It is slower than the minimum recommeded by Microsoft. However, you should be able to play DVDs and home videos fine. Note that the T marking (TurboCache) on your video card indicates that the card is actually stealing memory (RAM) from the rest of the system because it does not have enough of its own.

if i remember correctly, theatertek is the only dvd software player that will integrate with media center. they have a 14 day trial.

If by media center you mean Windows XP Media Center Edition, then the built-in Windows Media Player will work just fine for playing DVDs. Of course, you need to have MPEG-2 decoder from someone else because Microsoft does not ship one.

The price at Circuit Sucks is not $1k more than anyone else. You can't compare sale prices really unless you plan on getting the set at another store during the sale. Otherwise, the regular price should be close to others like Worst Buy or Tweeter. I think they would put the $1k credit towards a set since that is what you are trading in. I think they are doing you a favor since it is really your responsibility to have taken care of the problem sooner. I'm surprised they're giving you a credit at all since I don't think too highly of them. Yes, you might end up paying $200- $400 or so more than someone else but it is still free money. They might have it on sale anyway or match someone else like they normally would as was mentioned. I'd take it.

I would like to ask all the Sammy owners over all how they like there new 1080p TV's. Mostly I would like to know about any problems. Trying to decide between these TV's and the new Sony's (SXRD). Any in put from the masses would be nice. :cool:

I would like to ask all the Sammy owners over all how they like there new 1080p TV's. Mostly I would like to know about any problems. Trying to decide between these TV's and the new Sony's (SXRD). Any in put from the masses would be nice. :cool:

Just got my HLR 6168 last week. Currently, I am in HDTV heaven. Can't imagine anything else looking quite as good as this - right out of the box. Watched HarryPotter and Chamber of Secrets on my Oppo - my friends and I were blown away....

Totally satisfied so far. Even Analog/Digital SD look Ok. Not great mind you - but watchable in a pinch.

Good luck with your decision.

Duvy56, that is funny, no offense but this entire thread is regarding problems for the most part aside from the posts on speculation. I'm sure someone can sum up this thread in a nutshell. One point is the Sammy's are the best DLP if used as a PC monitor, via VGA you get 1080p. Is that Sony you mention DLP 1080p?

Duvy56, that is funny, no offense but this entire thread is regarding problems for the most part aside from the posts on speculation. I'm sure someone can sum up this thread in a nutshell. One point is the Sammy's are the best DLP if used as a PC monitor, via VGA you get 1080p. Is that Sony you mention DLP 1080p? It's 1080p but it's not DLP it's Silicon X-tal Reflective Display (SXRD).
I beleive it's a form of LCoS.

Have not had one problem with my 6768. I feel kind of neglected that I have no problems to talk about. I would just urge you to get as large a set as you have room for and can afford. The 6768 at 12' is great and I occasionally move my chair a couple of feet closer to watch a DVD.

Damn...

I'm waiting for my store to get stock of some Sony Bravias (KDLV40XBR1). I've made the purchase, it's already paid for. So why do I find myself coming back to the Samsung 1080p thread again and again?

I've been a 'fan' of the Sammy DLP sets for many years now, Using the FAQs from this site and periodical visits to local Hi Fi stores to fuel my interest. Now I'm finally ready to buy, and after a few recent Magnolia visits, I walk into the store with the intent to purchase a beautiful new HLR5078. HTPC desktop, games and DVDs are my aim. I would love a PS2, though, and having not owned a 'TV' in the past, I'm likely to get HD Cable and a DVR as well. So I explain these needs to the asst. manager and he shows me the new Sony Bravia (LCD Panel). It just so happened to be right next to an open box HLR5078. They had an HD Cable feed to a wall of sets, most LCD panels. The Sony looked remarkably better than all of them. It had a much crisper picture, much darker blacks (though with small loss of shadow detail), a slim design, refreshed scene changes as fast or faster than the rest of the sets on that wall (The Samsung lag was terribly obvious), and with all of this, it was cheaper too. In the Sammy's defense, it did have better Colors, and in comparison the Sony was rather small. Well, I brought my personal PC (not the aforementioned, yet to be built HTPC) and hooked up a 1360x768 VGA connection to the Bravia (1366x768 LCD). A quick test consisted of viewing the desktop and confirming 1:1 pixel mapping, Playing HL2 widescreen, and viewing a couple choice scenes from the matrix. It made a spectacular monitor. So I bought it on the spot, and delivery is currently due around the first or second seek in November.

Why am I posting all of this in the Sammy HLR Thread? It's simple, I'm planning on going back tomorrow to change my order to the 5078 and find out how soon I can have it delivered.

I made a huge mistake by not simply plugging my computer into the Sammy that was right next to it (logistics, too much time spent on the Sony that the store was going to close soon). However, from the owners with HTPCs posting on this thread, I think that I will be nothing but pleased with the VGA connection, and maybe even ecstatic with the DVI to HDMI love. I've been mulling over some things since my in store test of the Sony. I didn't fully consider my 11'+ viewing distance at home. At that distance I'm thinking that the Samsung's size would rule over the Sony's picture clarity. I'm also perfectly willing to wait several months for the PS3 to come out, to dodge any possible problems with console lag.

I'll be sure to let you all know how things work out with my 5078 in about a week. Otherwise I'm anxious to read replies until delivery.

On a side note: Can anyone recommend a good TV stand for this set?

-raab

At 11', buy the 56" or even the 61"!

Definitely the 61"! I'm at 10' and the 61" is a little too small.

Definitely the 61"! I'm at 10' and the 61" is a little too small.

I have been slowing moving my couch and Tv closer and closer from each
respective wall. I started at about 11.5 feet and am now about 8 ft.

I have the 6168 and wish I bought a bigger screen....

Damn...
... However, from the owners with HTPCs posting on this thread, I think that I will be nothing but pleased with the VGA connection, and maybe even ecstatic with the DVI to HDMI love. ...
-raab

VGA is excellent however DVI to HDMI is not. With DVI to HDMI, the computer desktop display looks bad and text is hard to read although video playback is fine. Strange but true.

I've had my 6168 since early September, and have been nothing but pleased. No issues what-so-ever other than occasional lip-sync on SOME, note not ALL, HD programming when routed through my AVR (slight during NFL on Sunday, NONE during World Series). Picture is stunning...just whish there was more HD content!!! And I still read this forum every day...wierd.... :eek:

I've been considering for some time now a new Samsung DLP. I have about a 7-9' Viewing Distance depending on what side of the couch you are sitting in or in what chair your sitting. I have measured the area I plan to put the new tv and theoretically the 6768 would fit. However, I was concerned that the tv might be too big for my viewing distances. Anyone recommendations would be helpful!!!

The problem I am running into is that my Dad has a 61" Mitsubishi and my brother has a 50" RCA HDTV and the TV has to be bigger (for obvious reasons) than theirs. Was considering the 61" in Samsung 6178.

Thanks

I hope someone can help me here, i am about to rip out my hair! :D

I just recently started having a problem with my TV that I can't quite figure out. I seem to be getting some blue streaks that screw up the picture on the screen.

Here is a shot of it running over HDMI2 from my STB to my TV: http://www.pcper.com/ryan/hdmi2.jpg

At first I thought it was an issue with the new HDMI cable I got from RAM Electronics, but upon jiggling it around, removing it and reseating it, nothing really changed. Then I happened to switch over to DTV cable input and saw the same thing occurring on the menu's overlay!

http://www.pcper.com/ryan/dtv.jpg

Keep in mind that there is nothing plugged into the cable jack on the back of the TV either.

Finally, looking at Component 1 input, to which there was no input being streamed, I saw the same thing:

http://www.pcper.com/ryan/comp1.jpg

Oh please someone help me in my time of need! Is this TV as good as dead? The problem is obviously not the cable right? Note that I did not see it over HDMI1 to which my DVD player is attached. Any significance?

Thank you for any assistance!
I wanted to let you all know that this problem has gotten progressively worse, and now it happens every time I turn on the TV, and usually the entire screen exhibits the problem. It seems to go away after having the TV on for an hour or more though...

A tech is on their way to the house today...I'll let you all know what happens.

I have been slowing moving my couch and Tv closer and closer from each
respective wall. I started at about 11.5 feet and am now about 8 ft.

I have the 6168 and wish I bought a bigger screen....

Couldn't agree more! I'm at about 9.5 feet with the 6168 and I almost wish I'd gone with the 67". I spend lots of extended hours in front of this thing with absolutely no eye strain... and I do see occasional rainbows, but they really don't bother me at all. I love this set!! :)

I have been slowing moving my couch and Tv closer and closer from each
respective wall. I started at about 11.5 feet and am now about 8 ft.

I have the 6168 and wish I bought a bigger screen....

I've had a hlp6163 for just over a year now (it's been a great set), viewing from ~ 9.5 to 10 ft, and it's now looking awfully small! I'm thus looking forward to its replacement any day now but a 73" Mits (from the same sitting distance).

FWIW, sitting 9 ft from a 72" (6') set is the 1.5 ratio that has been stated as the 'design goal' for HD TV. For a 60" (5') set this 1.5 ratio is a 7.5 ft viewing distance. I have moved my chair up to 7.5 ft with my 61" Sammy; still looks good, but it would probably take me a little while to adjust to this large a picture. But seeing how we all become increasingly greedy for size with time, I'm sure it will come!

PS This '1.5' distance, however, is really for serious viewing, i.e., movies, or a sports event one is waiting with full attention. It's probably not ideal for casual viewing in a family room with other things going on, or in a formal living room setting where it would be overpowering.

Question for you folks. If I use the audio outputs of the TV (HLR-6168)and send the signal to my receiver, will it avoid audio lag? I know runnig the audio directly from my DVD to the receiver could generate lag. I try to figure out how to avoid any audio lag for DVD and HD programation. I don't care about gaming, I will never game on my set.

Thanks for your help

Couldn't agree more! I'm at about 9.5 feet with the 6168 and I almost wish I'd gone with the 67". I spend lots of extended hours in front of this thing with absolutely no eye strain... and I do see occasional rainbows, but they really don't bother me at all. I love this set!! :)

I was leaning towards the 67" myself... but was concerned i'd only be able to watch one corner of the tv at a time because of the size...

Thanks again...

Can anyone tell me what set-up DVD's have been used to configure their Samsung DLP's?

I beleive Sammys only pass through non 5.1 to receivers via the audio out, unless the signal is from the unit's receiver.

Please, correct me if I'm wrong.

I wanted to let you all know that this problem has gotten progressively worse, and now it happens every time I turn on the TV, and usually the entire screen exhibits the problem. It seems to go away after having the TV on for an hour or more though...

A tech is on their way to the house today...I'll let you all know what happens.
Well so much for that, they had the TV apart then realized they had the wrong digital board for this TV...great....So now its 3-4 days to get in the new part and THEN they'll reschedule an appointment here, probably 3-4 days after that...grr.

When I asked why they had received the wrong digital board he said that sometimes units of the same model (HLR5668W) might use different components inside the TV, like this digital board or even light engine! Can that be true?!?

Question for you folks. If I use the audio outputs of the TV (HLR-6168)and send the signal to my receiver, will it avoid audio lag? I know runnig the audio directly from my DVD to the receiver could generate lag. I try to figure out how to avoid any audio lag for DVD and HD programation. I don't care about gaming, I will never game on my set.

Thanks for your help

Indeed, if you connect a source (DVD, set-top box, etc.) to the TV, and then use audio outputs from the TV to send the signal to your receiver, you will have zero audio lag. The TV will take care of synchronizing audio and video properly. The downside is that even though your sources may be transmitting 5.1 channel audio, you will only be able to send 2-channel stereo from your TV to the receiver.

The only way you will get 5.1 audio from your TV to the receiver is when you use the built-in TV tuner.

I want to buy either a 6168w or 6768w. Anyone know or experienced a good online retailer offering it for a cheap price that will have my tv come in one piece!?? Please, help me! Thanks

i have the 67 and sit about 8 feet away. looks good to me and i also have no eye strain. glad to see that more people are sitting closer at these sizes. when i first stated my plans people though i was crazy.

Thanks SDV5, this is exactly the answer I was looking for. Is this the only possible set-up to avoid audio lag?

Thanks SDV5, this is exactly the answer I was looking for. Is this the only possible set-up to avoid audio lag?

I have had my 6168 for a few days now and I do occasionally see Audio lag. But never on "good" DVDs. My Oppo DVD player is connected via Digital Coax to my AVR and via DVI/HDMI to the TV.

I haven't been able to get the Optical port on my Moto 6412 to work - so I can't tell you if there is lag with Dolby Digital signals from my cable box to my AVR. But, there is absolutely NO noticable lag with the regular L/R stereo analog connections to the AVR from the cable box (HD-DVR). I will however mention that when I had my TV speakers on, I could detect a SLIGHT echo between my TV's speakers and regular Home Theater speakers - very slight.

I was worried that I might have to spring for the Felston delay device - but so far haven't had the necessity to do so. I figure another 200 bucks for that box even if forced to get would be quite worth it for the PQ of the set. So my advice is - stop worrying about the lag (unless you are a hardcore gamer - in which case hopefully others can give you some other advice!).

Thanks SDV5, this is exactly the answer I was looking for. Is this the only possible set-up to avoid audio lag?

Nope. Many receivers have an audio delay feature or you could go with a Felston. (www.lipfix.com) It seems the amount of lip sync that is noticable varies from person to person. I don't notice the lip sync but my wife does so we went with the Felston. I leave it set on 98ms delay and all is well.

Let's see if this makes sense to people...

I think this is the Pronto code to access the service menu:

0000 007C 0000 0022 00A9 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0015 0703

However, it needs to be entered after you are in the "Info" screen.

So, here are the steps to turn off DNIe (This is all from memory, I'm not at home at the moment, so hopefully the steps are all correct!!)

1. With TV on, push "Info" button on remote
2. Enter the above Pronto code to access the service menu
3. Arrow down once to select DNIe menu
4. Arrow right once to enter the DNIe menu
5. Arrow up 4 times (I think!) to select DNIe entry (it will say "OFF" but it isn't! You need to toggle it on and then back off for it to be truly off)
6. Arrow right twice to toggle DNIe ON and then OFF
7. Push "Menu" button on remote to exit DNIe selection
8. Push "Menu button on remote again to exit the DNIe screen
9. Enter the above Pronto code to exit the Service Menu screen


That's it. Every time you change Source, or switch the TV off and then back on DNIe will revert to being ON, so you will need to follow the above procedure to turn it OFF again.
:)

Let's see if this makes sense to people...

I think this is the Pronto code to access the service menu:

0000 007C 0000 0022 00A9 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0015 0703

However, it needs to be entered after you are in the "Info" screen.

So, here are the steps to turn off DNIe (This is all from memory, I'm not at home at the moment, so hopefully the steps are all correct!!)

1. With TV on, push "Info" button on remote
2. Enter the above Pronto code to access the service menu
3. Arrow down once to select DNIe menu
4. Arrow right once to enter the DNIe menu
5. Arrow up 4 times (I think!) to select DNIe entry (it will say "OFF" but it isn't! You need to toggle it on and then back off for it to be truly off)
6. Arrow right twice to toggle DNIe ON and then OFF
7. Push "Menu" button on remote to exit DNIe selection
8. Push "Menu button on remote again to exit the DNIe screen
9. Enter the above Pronto code to exit the Service Menu screen


That's it. Every time you change Source, or switch the TV off and then back on DNIe will revert to being ON, so you will need to follow the above procedure to turn it OFF again.
:)

Thanks for the procedure ... I'll try it, how did you figure out the Pronto code? I have pretty much given up hope (after trying all 255 possible Samsung IR codes) of finding a TV input IR code. Have you found one yet? [Note, right now I go to HDMI2 and then issue SOURCE command, works]

I was leaning towards the 67" myself... but was concerned i'd only be able to watch one corner of the tv at a time because of the size...

Thanks again...


I sit about 13' from my 67" and the wife is a little closer. If I am walking through the room I sometimes sit on the ottoman only 6 or 7 feet away and it still looks good. probably want to be 8 or 9 feet for best viewing. I often think I wish it was a little larger but a quarter inch wider and it would not have fit in it's hole. I love my TV.

I want to buy either a 6168w or 6768w. Anyone know or experienced a good online retailer offering it for a cheap price that will have my tv come in one piece!?? Please, help me! Thanks
I just got the 6768 from prestigecamera. 4k delivered. Everything went smooth and worked fine out of the box. It is an incredible picture.

I'm 5' from 5678 and the set is big. I think you would need to be over 6' for anything larger otherwise you will be looking around the screen if the subject is not directly in the middle. A salesman at Tweeter explained how you could get a sickening feeling if your eyes are constantly moving if you are too close to the set, for the size. I would get an inch from the set at the store and see how far away you can get before either bumping into something at the store or so that you can comfortably see the entire screen. The other thing to keep in mind is the 50, 56, 61, I think have the same components. Therefore the picture is not as clear the closer you are to the larger the set. In other words, at 5' the 50 is sharp, the 56 is less sharp and the 61 is even less. That's why the larger the set the further away you should be.

Just a refresher on connecting a PC to the Sammy. I thought this might be helpful if someone did a search. First, no one said to connect a PC with DVI to the HDMI on the Sammy. The Sammy only takes a VGA signal. Yes, its possible to connect a DVI to HDMI adapter, however that is for video, not a PC signal on the Sammy.

The other thing is to only use an inexpensive, cheap, VGA cable. I have a 15' cable and it works great. I bought mine at Staples for under $30. I was surprised it could carry the signal that far. The VGA cable sends data both ways and the more expensive, well insulated cables seem to interfere with this signal. The VGA cable needs to have male pins on both ends and some people had trouble using a monitor extension cable. It is best to get one long cable rather than connecting two together.

I just got the 6768 from prestigecamera. 4k delivered. Everything went smooth and worked fine out of the box. It is an incredible picture.

thanks, i'll check that site out! One more question, how long did it take for you to get your tv?

Anyone else know any other online retailer thats very reliable and affordable to get a 6768w? What do you guys think of this site ------> Bestbuyplasma

Sorry, I'm really desperate to get the tv! :eek:

I can't reccomend buying large, expensive electronics online, especially something like a DLP where there is a chance, however slim, of RBE/anything that makes the unit pretty much unusable. Returning something like that is beyond a hastle.

I'm 5' from 5678 and the set is big. I think you would need to be over 6' for anything larger otherwise you will be looking around the screen if the subject is not directly in the middle. A salesman at Tweeter explained how you could get a sickening feeling if your eyes are constantly moving if you are too close to the set, for the size. I would get an inch from the set at the store and see how far away you can get before either bumping into something at the store or so that you can comfortably see the entire screen. The other thing to keep in mind is the 50, 56, 61, I think have the same components. Therefore the picture is not as clear the closer you are to the larger the set. In other words, at 5' the 50 is sharp, the 56 is less sharp and the 61 is even less. That's why the larger the set the further away you should be.

I think the closest that anyone ever recommends sitting (even for a 1080p) is 1.5 x screen diagonal. For a 56" tv this comes to 7 ft; I think anything closer is TOO close (and I'm one that really likes it close!).

I just checked out prestige camera's web site. The 6168 was 3999 and the 6178 was 4999. Why the big difference?

Duvy56, that is funny, no offense but this entire thread is regarding problems for the most part aside from the posts on speculation. I'm sure someone can sum up this thread in a nutshell. One point is the Sammy's are the best DLP if used as a PC monitor, via VGA you get 1080p. Is that Sony you mention DLP 1080p?


Oh come on. There are ten people with ten posts each. How many people take the time to say their happy with anything. I don't have any OTA reception or HD cable service. I depend on DirectTV. My SD & HD service on my 6168 is outstanding. I suspect most Samsung owners turn on their new 1080p DLPs, are very pleased, and never comeback to this form.

I think the closest that anyone ever recommends sitting (even for a 1080p) is 1.5 x screen diagonal. For a 56" tv this comes to 7 ft; I think anything closer is TOO close (and I'm one that really likes it close!).

Little bit of buyers remorse here. I have a 5078 and sit at about 9 ft. I do wish I had bought the 5678, however, it's probably too late to trade it in. For now, I'll just move my couch closer on those shows that I really want to see in HD glory. That said, I really hate seeing jpeg artifacts. Even with my setup I can sometimes see them depending on source material. I would think that the 61" and above sets would make jpeg artifacts really visible at 9 ft. I know it's all a matter of personal preference, but is there anyone here who is bugged by artifacts or other picture imperfections on the larger sets just because they are larger? Just curious.

Little bit of buyers remorse here. I have a 5078 and sit at about 9 ft. I do wish I had bought the 5678, however, it's probably too late to trade it in. For now, I'll just move my couch closer on those shows that I really want to see in HD glory. That said, I really hate seeing jpeg artifacts. Even with my setup I can sometimes see them depending on source material. I would think that the 61" and above sets would make jpeg artifacts really visible at 9 ft. I know it's all a matter of personal preference, but is there anyone here who is bugged by artifacts or other picture imperfections on the larger sets just because they are larger? Just curious.

I am at 11'-12' from my 6168 and sometimes I do see artifacts on the screen. I can't imagine how people sit closer than this distance and are still happy with the image. The content out there just isn't good enough all the time.

Maybe all these folks have had their sets caliberated...Hmmm...

Thanks for the procedure ... I'll try it, how did you figure out the Pronto code? I have pretty much given up hope (after trying all 255 possible Samsung IR codes) of finding a TV input IR code. Have you found one yet? [Note, right now I go to HDMI2 and then issue SOURCE command, works]

I'm afraid I'm not a pro with Pronto codes. I had a Samsung service tech over to fix something. I watched carefully when he accessed the service menu, and managed to "inadvertently" catch the service menu IR transmission with my pocketpc. :D

So I haven't found a command to access the TV input directly. Looking at the sheet of paper on controlling the TV with an RS-232C connection, it lists an RS-232 code for selecting TV input so I would have thought there was also an associated IR code. It would be strange for Samsung to have an RS-232 code and not an IR code, but stranger things have happened in the past.

I would like to ask all the Sammy owners over all how they like there new 1080p TV's. Mostly I would like to know about any problems. Trying to decide between these TV's and the new Sony's (SXRD). Any in put from the masses would be nice. :cool:

Have you considered the new HP md5880n or md6580n?

I think I just found out the HP's are only available in 58" and 65"? If you weren't interested in those sizes for the Sammy then why would anyone be for an HP? Any web site that lists the specs including PC?

I can't reccomend buying large, expensive electronics online, especially something like a DLP where there is a chance, however slim, of RBE/anything that makes the unit pretty much unusable. Returning something like that is beyond a hastle.
Not with TVA. I had a problem with a tilted image on my first set. Returning it was painless and it only took a few minutes in a chat session to get the process started. It would have been much more of a pain for me to deal with a local merchant.

I have to agree although it is very difficult to get through to TVA and no one calls you back. Once they said they would email me. I've been dealing with their shipper, Pilot Air and they have been great. My first and second set were damaged during shipping. I kept the first one until I realized it was damaged. Thursday Pilot will deliver the third set. I hope this one is in perfect condition.

Raab, the Sony you quoted is 720, so there is no comparison. Also, the smaller the set the sharper it looks at the same distance, even SD sets.

The Sony is 40". Watching a 40" Sony or a 50" Sammy at 11' I think is too far away to be enjoyable regardless. Are you going to use the Sammy speakers? You didn't mention a AVR? Most notice lag and need a AVR with delay.

Tweeter has a great glass and metal stand that fits the 50" Sammy perfectly and it is one of the cheapest too for around $300. It looks like steps since the top shelf is against the wall, the middle shelf is a little further out and the bottom shelf sticks out a little more. It is also a good height for the 50" Sammy.

I don't think anyone considers a 40"+ LCD anymore, better to go DLP. I would also look at the PC resolution. Was that the spec of your computer at the time or was that the max. resolution on the Sony? If price is an issue you might be better off waiting until they go on sale after Turkey Day probably and or get a store financing or something for a larger set at 11'.

Contrary to the TV Manuals and what I was told by Samsung Tech Support, the Samsung 1080p (at least the 5688) does support the Mac!

...

Choose the resolution of 1920 X 1080 and do not check "Mirror."

All right, just brought my powerbook over to Circuit City on the 6768w and it would only work on 1024 x 720... when I selected 1920 x 1080 (i...)... just a black screen, no flickers or nothing. I was using a DVI to HDMI cable. My powerbook has an ATI Mobility Radeon 9700 (AGP 4x) w/ 128 MB of DDR Graphics memory (ATY,RV360M11).

Any thoughts as why I couldn't be checking out the 1080-ness? Cable... not enough video memory?

BTW, the 1024 x 720 was working fine on both the 6768w and 5668w.

The Sony is 40". Watching a 40" Sony or a 50" Sammy at 11' I think is too far away to be enjoyable regardless. Are you going to use the Sammy speakers? You didn't mention a AVR? Most notice lag and need a AVR with delay.

Yeah, I've read all about that... I will buy a new reciever with delay at the same time I buy a 5.1 speaker system.

Tweeter has a great glass and metal stand that fits the 50" Sammy...

Sadly, there's no Tweeters within a couple hundred miles of me.

I don't think anyone considers a 40"+ LCD anymore, better to go DLP. I would also look at the PC resolution. Was that the spec of your computer at the time or was that the max. resolution on the Sony? If price is an issue you might be better off waiting until they go on sale after Turkey Day probably and or get a store financing or something for a larger set at 11'.

I considered it so much I bought it. The only thing was I didn't fully understand all the factors (Simple noob TV purchase debockle). Now that I have a better grasp on the situation I'm going to get the 5678 instead. The Sony does slightly better than 720p with a resolition of 1366x768. My Radeon 6800 is capable of 1360x768 (and better) and sure enough there were 3 colums of pixels on either side of the Sony that went unused. No overscan, 1:1.

Any thoughts as why I couldn't be checking out the 1080-ness? Cable... not enough video memory?.

I believe your first mistake is using the hdmi out...you should use a vga out in order to send 1080 to the TV.

SV

SlurpTheo, yes, only VGA can be used, DVI to VGA or VGA to VGA is better since it stays analog. Next, can your Mac specs push 1080? You need to check the Mac specs to see if its possible. Once again only cheap VGA cables work. I'm not familiar with the Mac but I guess any computer will work on the Sammy, but that doesn't mean all will be 1080.

Can anyone recommend or warn about "Digital Kings" online seller in respect to the 'higher class' xxx8W TVs or just as an online seller in general?

~$2,800 after shipping for the 5668W (less than the 5667W at most retail stores) - productid 1771

Now that I have my new HDTV, I am considering what to do about my Comcast cable service. Somewhere, on one of these threads, someone posted what Comcast DVR/ cable box to get and which one to stay away from. I can't seem to find those posts.

If anyone has any recommendations, please (re)post them or send me a PM.

TIA!!!!!

Now that I have my new HDTV, I am considering what to do about my Comcast cable service. Somewhere, on one of these threads, someone posted what Comcast DVR/ cable box to get and which one to stay away from. I can't seem to find those posts.

If anyone has any recommendations, please (re)post them or send me a PM.

TIA!!!!!


Has anyone compared the differences between DirectTV and the Cable providers as far as picture quality goes in both standare def and high def. I had directtv for just standard tv about 6 months ago and noticed an improved picture over Cox Digital Cable. Was wandering if this held true for High Def too?

Cable usually gives better HD because the satellite companies have to compress their signal so much. And the new Motorola 6412 Phase III cable box (includes dvr) has very good sd PQ.

"Cable usually gives better HD because the satellite companies have to compress their signal so much."


Even though I have just purchased an HDTV only about 1 week ago and have not had HD over satalite yet. I honestly dont see HD being better on cable because all cable companies get both sd and hd channels via satalite dish anyway. And many of them are getting there feed from ether dish network or direct tv. I dont believe that many of them are still using analog dishes anymore. Cable companies should have the same quality with HD that satalite companies do since its the same source. As far as SD channels go here are two examples from my own experience. When I lived in the Los Angeles area my neighbor had Charter Cable and I had Direct TV. My neighbor had so called digital cable on a new 27" tv and I had a standard Direct TV box on a 11 yr old 31" tv. My basic sd channels on a older tv looked alot better than my neighbors HBO on a smaller brand new tv. I now live in Phoenix and am stuck with Cox Cable and sd channels on so called digital cable looks horible on my room mates 32" tv and even worse on my 50" hdtv. Movie channels are acceptable and the HD channels are acceptible to really good depending on the program that is being shown. And depending on if it is upconverted or actuall native hd 1080i or 720p material. Channels that are heavily compressed will usually show sings of pixelization and distortion in the picture which make the HD channels look even better.

I was considering getting the 1080p Samsung but decided to wait because of issues with lip sync and because the Samsung will not accept a 1080p source. It will upconvert 1080i to 1080p but that is about it. The next generation 1080p sets should actually accept a 1080p input. I would put of buying a 1080p set just alittle longer until true 1080p sets become available and any issues are fixed.

Dave, any idea when the next gen of Samsungs are going to come out? I don't expect the lag problem to be solved, but 1080p in would be nice. HP's new DLP can do it, so when will Samsung?

any idea when the next gen of Samsungs are going to come out?


I imagine they will announce them for June/July, 2006, and they will show up Sept/Oct.

Good question, I have no idea when that will be. I hear that true 1080p hdtv's are starting to come out but its all up to Samsung. Maybe someone else here has heard something about when the new models of Samsung 1080p sets might hit the local retailers? I saw a HP hdtv but I really did not care for the cosmetics and the picture did not stand out enough to make me want to purchase it. The Mitsubishi was the only hdtv 1080p set at the time that did not have a native resolution tied to it. From what I have been told the Mits 1080p set basically shows the incoming signal at that resolution. The only acception is that 1080i is upconverted to 1080p, but everything else stays at native resolution coming in to the tv. My next two investments on the video side will be a 1080p front projector and a blu-ray player. Samsung has come along way and it would be a shame if they do not make a true 1080p set available soon.

. Samsung has come along way and it would be a shame if they do not make a true 1080p set available soon.

I thought the models now were 1080P? What do you mean by "true 1080P"?

By true 1080p I mean actually accepting a 1080p source and not just displaying a 1080p resolution. At this time most 1080p sets only display 1080p resolution and do not accept 1080p input.

By true 1080p I mean actually accepting a 1080p source and not just displaying a 1080p resolution. At this time most 1080p sets only display 1080p resolution and do not accept 1080p input.

OK...that makes sense. But I was told on this site the Samsung accepted 1080P inputs as VGA. Im not sure what that means though. If true will the current models of Samsung display true 1080P when available on DVDs in near future? That would be my main concern.

The Samsung will not accept 1080p via its hdmi digital connection. It might however accept 1080p via its anolog vga connection. It seems like a waste to take a digital picture and convert it to a analog signal before reaching the tv. The problem is that when a HD disc format comes out the only way to get the 1080i (HD-DVD) or 1080p (1080p) Blu-ray picture to the tv is via hdmi which at this point in time does not support 1080p. Everything I have heard to this point says that they will not be allowing 1080p over component video. It all depends on how important it is to have that full 1080p resolution. I would hold off on getting a 1080p until all the problems are worked out.

Now that I have my new HDTV, I am considering what to do about my Comcast cable service. Somewhere, on one of these threads, someone posted what Comcast DVR/ cable box to get and which one to stay away from. I can't seem to find those posts.

If anyone has any recommendations, please (re)post them or send me a PM.

TIA!!!!!


The COMCAST 6412 III seems to be the one to go for. I have it and have no problems - the DVR works quite well and HD looks great on the 6178

The Samsung will not accept 1080p via its hdmi digital connection. It might however accept 1080p via its anolog vga connection. It seems like a waste to take a digital picture and convert it to a analog signal before reaching the tv. The problem is that when a HD disc format comes out the only way to get the 1080i (HD-DVD) or 1080p (1080p) Blu-ray picture to the tv is via hdmi which at this point in time does not support 1080p. Everything I have heard to this point says that they will not be allowing 1080p over component video. It all depends on how important it is to have that full 1080p resolution. I would hold off on getting a 1080p until all the problems are worked out.

Problem, what problem. Yes the Samsung X8's can input 1080p on the VGA connection. As far as HD-DVD or "Blue Ray", nothing is out there yet so who knows what the outputs will be. With the number of TV's that are already out there that can input 1080i ( the current batch as well as the 720ps) I doubt that they will be left out in the cold. There are just not enough 1080p consumers out there right now to make it cost effective to limit it to them alone.

The COMCAST 6412 III seems to be the one to go for. I have it and have no problems - the DVR works quite well and HD looks great on the 6178

Seconded! The Mark III is the one to get - this is the one with the HDMI output. HD was great in the Mark II as well but analog and digital SD is where the Mark III SHINES. The older one was so bad, analog SD was not watchable. One had to resort to splitting the cable and feeding it directly to the TV which obviously defeats the purpose of having a DVR in the first place.

Actually it's been said (a few times) that BRD will support 1080p (God knows it has space to kill), and HD-DVD will do 1080i.

Hi, new here, please excuse these next few posts as I need to do this in order to post my response. It includes 2 url links and I cannot post a message with such (even if I chop the links up) until I have five posts. I understand the need to stop spamming but last night I typed out a long post only to lose it after several attempts to figure out why I could not post.

Apologies in advance.

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The Samsung will not accept 1080p via its hdmi digital connection. It might however accept 1080p via its anolog vga connection. It seems like a waste to take a digital picture and convert it to a analog signal before reaching the tv. The problem is that when a HD disc format comes out the only way to get the 1080i (HD-DVD) or 1080p (1080p) Blu-ray picture to the tv is via hdmi which at this point in time does not support 1080p. Everything I have heard to this point says that they will not be allowing 1080p over component video. It all depends on how important it is to have that full 1080p resolution. I would hold off on getting a 1080p until all the problems are worked out.

OK. Good input. I guess I'll wait a year and see what the state of affairs are at that time.

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Hi, I have some questions regarding the current Samsung 1080p units (considering the 5078). From what I understand, this unit can only accept 1080i signals through the HDMI inputs, but however, CAN accept 1080p but through the VGA input. Would using an adaptor such as this (http://www.digitalconnection.com/Products/Video/DCDA1.ASP) allow you to send a future device's 1080p output to the TV through the VGA input by having an HDMI to DVI adaptor from the source to this adaptor, and running a
VGA cable from this adaptor to the TV? If possible, would this be preferable in quality to sending a 1080i output from the device and having the TV itself deinterlace the signal? (Note: I have also taken into consideration the purchase of something on the lines of a DVDO ISCAN HD+ unit but this doesn't allow converting a 1080p DVI/HDMI signal to a VGA signal - once again, not sure if this idea will even work).


In addition, I have read a bit about Sony's SXRD technology and have a few concerns about this. Do these units degrade ala LCD with extended use as per tests done comparing LCD to DLP (see link: http://www.projectorcentral.com/lcd_dlp_test.htm )? The Sony 50" unit has a few other issues which concern me. Do these Sony units allow you to record HD to a DVHS deck through the FireWire in/outs, or just play? Documentation I've read stated that these ports are inputs but say nothing about outputting a signal. Being an owner of a DVHS deck, this is a concern. I am not too concerned about differences in viewing angle - from what I understand both the SXRD and DLP units are both around 60 degrees wide (30 each up/down from center), so that is negligable. As far as the Sony units, I would have to wait for a later model as these units have built-in side speakers which add an addition 10" width the unit. This is wasteful and IMO stupid, as I would assume anyone using a TV of this price range would not be using the TV's speakers. I have space restrictions, and would have to go with a much smaller screen size to allow side speakers. IMO Samsung is doing things right as far as this goes. I noticed that Sony followed suit with their LCD RPTV units...why not do the same for these?


As far as usage, I plan to use the TV for both TV and movies, as well as a computer monitor and also for gaming (both 'retro' and current). Video lag is a major concern but I gather that Samsung corrected this problem in the last few series'?


I guess I can wait for a later model (as I plan to purchase 1st or 2nd quarter 2006), but honestly I'm worried about lack of support for DVHS (as far as recording). I held off plans on purchasing a combo of a 720p HD TV + Samsung set-top box (just for the FireWire - which seemed to be disappearing from HDTVs altogether until recently).

The TI test was pretty compelling showing that 5 of 5 LCD sets degraded to point of unacceptability while 3 of 3 DLP sets did not change. Sounds pretty compelling to go with DLP. Thanks for the article.

The TI test was pretty compelling showing that 5 of 5 LCD sets degraded to point of unacceptability while 3 of 3 DLP sets did not change. Sounds pretty compelling to go with DLP. Thanks for the article.


From what I understand, LCoS and SXRD are based upon LCD technology, so that's what I worry about, given the unit would be in high usage overall (sometimes 8 hours+/day). Granted the 'rainbow effect' might bother me (have not noticed in brief watchings on in-store displays), and SDE actually doesn't bother me....problems with the unit itself would.

While I'm admittedly a fan of DLP (over LCD, in general), that "study" is way too vague.

For one, it's by TI. Who makes DLP chips. The ones on the market. That they want to sell.

Two, so little information about WHAT was tested should cause a worry, as should the fact that they included a LCoS display, yet didn't include it in the results (if 1 unit isn't enough to form a conclusion, why include it at all?).

And, the unrealistic usage. Sure the numbers show something, but nobody has a TV running for 8K hours. Then again in a room with a bunch of units, at a (generally) high ambient temp.

I wouldn't take that study very heavily. The basic results (LCDs will wear down over time) may be true, but in actuality it's generally a non-issue.

The TI test was pretty compelling showing that 5 of 5 LCD sets degraded to point of unacceptability while 3 of 3 DLP sets did not change. Sounds pretty compelling to go with DLP. Thanks for the article.

So you actually put credence in an article written and sponsored by TI favoring DLP? :rolleyes: I have a bridge to sell you if you think DLP with wobulated half-chips and spinning color wheels is more reliable than ANY other technology :cool:

Just as I defended LCD in my last post, I'll take on another shot at you.

There's been 0 proof that DLP is unreliable. A good DLP set will last just as long (sans a bulb change) as anything else. Spinning wheels and a million mirrors haven't created any noticable increase in failures or returns over any other tech. for the past 15-20 years.

Question about the digital audio out from the TV--
If I connect a HDTivo via HDMI, can the TV send the 5.1 audio out via digital audio to my receiver? Will this setup lead to the audio sync problem?

From what I've heard, it will bypass any sync problems, but the set won't pass on 5.1 to your receiver, only 2 channel.

From what I understand, LCoS and SXRD are based upon LCD technology, so that's what I worry about, given the unit would be in high usage overall (sometimes 8 hours+/day). Granted the 'rainbow effect' might bother me (have not noticed in brief watchings on in-store displays), and SDE actually doesn't bother me....problems with the unit itself would.

Im have the same thoughts. I havent noticed this rainbow effect either, in the demos Ive done. And as side side by side viewing in store (in this case Samsung to Mits to Hits) I thought Samsung was equal or better PQ. However, the new Sony you refer to, I viewed also and I would say it had the best picture of all but that technology in their current model release only goes up to 60" and I require at least 67". Additionally the ageing problems pointed out in the article you provided, would push me to Samsung. Lastly, the price of the Samsung is ~$1000-2000 less then slightly larger sized TVs, and even less then the same family of Samsung at 72".

Another important criteria for me is to be able to view the new H-DVD or Blueray DVDs from source 1080P at 1080P. Apparently only the HP TVs do that now via HDMI input. Im assuming from all the postings that HDMI will be the input of choice when HDVD products hit the street. Soooo, since Samsung DOES NOT have HDMI input at 1080P now, Im going to clean the mirrors on my old 4:3 TV and squeeze another year out of it hoping to have this capility this time next year on more TVs along with the other improvements a year will make.

The Mitsubishi was the only hdtv 1080p set at the time that did not have a native resolution tied to it. From what I have been told the Mits 1080p set basically shows the incoming signal at that resolution. The only acception is that 1080i is upconverted to 1080p, but everything else stays at native resolution coming in to the tv.

I don't think this makes sense. It's a fixed pixel display, so unless something comes in at the display's native resolution (i.e., 1080p), it gets scaled (or de-interlaced, for 1080i). Or am I missing someting?

I have had a few salesmen and a rep from Mitsubishi tell me the same thing. And if you look on Mitsubishi web site for there 1080p rptv's there is no native resolution listed. If this is true then the mitsubishi 1080p set is not a completley fixed pixel tv. It displays whatever resolution is coming in. For example 480p is displayed in 480p unless the dvd player is upconverting it to 1080i then the tv will display it at 1080i. I think its kinda like a pc monitor that its video is software based and the resolution is based on whatever the software tells it to display at. The only limitations is the limitations of the display itself. So the Mitsubishi will most likely max out at 1080p. Am not completly sure if the tv will actually display an 1080p source like blu-ray but from what I have hear it should do it.

Is there any way to change the color tone in Movie mode from Warm2?

I have had a few salesmen and a rep from Mitsubishi tell me the same thing. And if you look on Mitsubishi web site for there 1080p rptv's there is no native resolution listed. If this is true then the mitsubishi 1080p set is not a completley fixed pixel tv. It displays whatever resolution is coming in. For example 480p is displayed in 480p unless the dvd player is upconverting it to 1080i then the tv will display it at 1080i. I think its kinda like a pc monitor that its video is software based and the resolution is based on whatever the software tells it to display at. The only limitations is the limitations of the display itself. So the Mitsubishi will most likely max out at 1080p. Am not completly sure if the tv will actually display an 1080p source like blu-ray but from what I have hear it should do it.A micro chip based display is capable of displaying it's native resolution and nothing else. All inputs are converted to the chip's native resolution before being displayed unless the input signal is already in the sets native resolution. You have been misled. :o

I have had a few salesmen and a rep from Mitsubishi tell me the same thing. And if you look on Mitsubishi web site for there 1080p rptv's there is no native resolution listed. If this is true then the mitsubishi 1080p set is not a completley fixed pixel tv. It displays whatever resolution is coming in. For example 480p is displayed in 480p unless the dvd player is upconverting it to 1080i then the tv will display it at 1080i. I think its kinda like a pc monitor that its video is software based and the resolution is based on whatever the software tells it to display at. The only limitations is the limitations of the display itself. So the Mitsubishi will most likely max out at 1080p. Am not completly sure if the tv will actually display an 1080p source like blu-ray but from what I have hear it should do it.

From what I can see on Mitsu's website, the Microdisplay technology has a native pixel resolution of 1920 X 1080 - the same as the Sammy's. So all incoming resolutions will be converted to this resolution. It also states in the specification PDF file that HDMI input is only capable of 480i/480p/720p/1080i, so it won't be able to take a 1080p input.

Thanks for the heads up guys much appreciated, am glad I did not spend the extra money on the set if it does not display 1080p sources. The set does have a really nice picture though. That is the one of the great things out this forum is that people can get information about movies and home theater realated items.

Thanks for the heads up guys much appreciated, am glad I did not spend the extra money on the set if it does not display 1080p sources. The 1080p HP sets are supposed to have HDMI ports that accept 1080p input. Now all you need is a 1080p source.

It will be a long time before 1080p source material is available in any useful quantity.

since the Samsung does accept the VGA input at 1080P, will that be a usable input in the future to use with HDVDs and Blueray machines?

Do you think it will be a cabled output from the player or will some sort of component converter be required.

How about the picture quality, going in at analog VGA. Will that suffer a lot when compared to a HDMI input?

No it won't be useable. the connection will have to use HDCP which HDMI has. Th epicture looks very good on the vga input at 1080P.

Any answer as far as my question regarding a DVI-VGA adaptor? :)

VGA is analog, 1080P out from DVI/HDMI with HDCP is digital. An adapter won't work unless it is some kind of box that illegally bypasses the HDCP and will output the signal over an analog connection.

wobulated half-chips and spinning color wheels is more reliable than ANY other technology :cool:

My "half chip" with spinning color wheel ROCKs. If it breaks, Samsung will
fix it :-)

VGA is analog, 1080P out from DVI/HDMI with HDCP is digital. An adapter won't work unless it is some kind of box that illegally bypasses the HDCP and will output the signal over an analog connection.

Aaron, I have to admit that snap shot of Resident Evil WMV-HD clip is very
soft :-) Just not enough detail for me :-) 1080p all the way!

I hate my wobulated "half chip" with spinning color wheel:-)

Funny though, I haven't seen more than a couple '3' "full chip" RPs even
come close...

No it won't be useable. the connection will have to use HDCP which HDMI has. Th epicture looks very good on the vga input at 1080P.
OK..thanks for that. Im guessing that the VGA input is strictly for hooking up a PC then.

Which size Samsung would have about 31.5" high screen size?. Im guessing the 67" TV is about that?. They dont list that sort of dimension in the specs, just total size.

Thanks again!

Which size Samsung would have about 31.5" high screen size?. Im guessing the 67" TV is about that?. They dont list that sort of dimension in the specs, just total size.

Thanks again!

Doing the math, the height of a 16:9 screen is equal to the diagonal divided by 2.04. So, a 61" screen has a height of 29.9" and a 67" screen has a height of 32.8". Your choice of 31.5" is smack-dab in the middle, and would need a TV with a 64.25" diagonal.

Which size Samsung would have about 31.5" high screen size?. Im guessing the 67" TV is about that?. They dont list that sort of dimension in the specs, just total size.

Thanks again!

This is on the Samsung site

61" Drawings (http://product.samsung.com/pdf/hlr6168_dimensions.pdf) and 67" Drawings (http://product.samsung.com/pdf/hlr6768_dimensions.pdf)

thanks Nazgul and Lexx!

Thats perfect. Greater then 31.5"H is great (the 67" being 32.8"H). I just wanted to be sure it was at least the same height or greater then my current 4:3 RPTV.

thanks again!

While upgrading to the 6768 TV I would also like to upgrade my Home Theater Amp/Reciever and DVD player. I already have the speakers and subwoofer.

I like everything to work together from remote without a lot of fuss. Have you any experience or opinions on on what components (reciever and DVD player and VHS recorder) to get that are compatible and work seamlessly with the Samsung TV and remotes?

100W per channel is what I enjoy now in 5.1 with a subwoofer output to a 500w powered subwoofer and should be all I need in a new receiver. The DVD should be progessive. The VHS can be basic.

Any thoughts appreciated

While upgrading to the 6768 TV I would also like to upgrade my Home Theater Amp/Reciever and DVD player. I already have the speakers and subwoofer.

I like everything to work together from remote without a lot of fuss. Have you any experience or opinions on on what components (reciever and DVD player and VHS recorder) to get that are compatible and work seamlessly with the Samsung TV and remotes?

100W per channel is what I enjoy now in 5.1 with a subwoofer output to a 500w powered subwoofer and should be all I need in a new receiver. The DVD should be progessive. The VHS can be basic.

Any thoughts appreciated

I would recommend the Denon 3805 AVR. They have a 200ms audio delay so you can connect your audio from your source directly to your avr.


UCSB has spent some time reviewing several upconverting dvd players, so check them out...



Congrats to the White Sox!!!

My 6768 was delivered this week. Its picture quality, derived from high density channels on Time-Warner Cable, is incredible for television. The landscape views on the HD Discovery Channel are especially astonishing. The picture is sharper than 16mm film and compares well to the best 35mm projected at that size. I understand double the 1080X1920 resolution will be offered within five years, but no one will need it on a 67" screen in his den.

My only complaint is against the audio system design. I can discover no way to use the internal speakers at the same time as an external sound system. Signal is supplied on the AV-Out RCA connectors only with "Internal Mute" set ON via the menu -- and this kills the internal speakers. Even more annoying, with "Internal Mute" turned on, the TV remote's Volume and Mute controls no longer work: i.e., are not applied to the signal on AV-Out. This is clearly a step backward in convenience. Hopefully these results derive from firmware that Samsung can fix via "Setup" controls to combine the functions.

Perhaps the fiber-optic audio out is controllable from the TV. Unfortunately the manual does not clearly specify how the optical output works. My external amplifier has no optical input so I can't check it out. Before I invest in optically connected equipment, can anyone advise me what to expect?

Must I always use a second remote to conveniently control an external audio system?

Thanks for your attention.

--Robert Smith

Sorry that I can't quite answer your question, but why would you ever WANt to have you TV speakers on at the same time as an external sound system?

I find it simplest to use my AVR remote as the 'main remote'; it's a learning remote, so I simply choose some convenient button and map the 'on' and 'off' of the tv onto it. And I never use the TV speakers (and have them muted, as you do). Why would one ever want to use them if you have a surround system?

My 6768 was delivered this week. Its picture quality, derived from high density channels on Time-Warner Cable, is incredible for television. The landscape views on the HD Discovery Channel are especially astonishing. The picture is sharper than 16mm film and compares well to the best 35mm projected at that size. I understand double the 1080X1920 resolution will be offered within five years, but no one will need it on a 67" screen in his den.

My only complaint is against the audio system design. I can discover no way to use the internal speakers at the same time as an external sound system. Signal is supplied on the AV-Out RCA connectors only with "Internal Mute" set ON via the menu -- and this kills the internal speakers. Even more annoying, with "Internal Mute" turned on, the TV remote's Volume and Mute controls no longer work: i.e., are not applied to the signal on AV-Out. This is clearly a step backward in convenience. Hopefully these results derive from firmware that Samsung can fix via "Setup" controls to combine the functions.

Perhaps the fiber-optic audio out is controllable from the TV. Unfortunately the manual does not clearly specify how the optical output works. My external amplifier has no optical input so I can't check it out. Before I invest in optically connected equipment, can anyone advise me what to expect?

Must I always use a second remote to conveniently control an external audio system?

Thanks for your attention.

--Robert Smith

Hi Robert and welcome to the avsForum. Given the fact that you have invested in a 6768, it makes sense to also purchase a universal remote. They are incrediblely convenient and pretty cheap. A good remote will allow you to control your equipment in any manner that you would like. For reveiews on the most popular models, try www.remotecentral.com. You could also ask what the other Samsung owners are using in this thread ... I'm using a Philips Pronto TSU3000, but that remote is to complicated unless you are a technical person.

It sounds like you are ready for a receiver upgrade. Make sure that any receiver that you buy has the ability to set an AUDIO DELAY for EVERY input (source). This is required to sync up the audio and video so you do not have any lip sync problems. Make sure the receiver can handle at least a 150 ms delay because you will probably be setting it at around 120 ms +/- 20 ms. The reason the TV speakers are delayed is that the audio and video are maintained in sync on the TV and a delay is processed into the TV audio. Generally, you want to either use and external surround system or TV speakers, but not both ... so don't worry about the problem.

Sorry that I can't quite answer your question, but why would you ever WANt to have you TV speakers on at the same time as an external sound system?

I think one question he has is why he cant control the volume with the TV remote and if he will always have to use a second remote. Maybe using a reciever with fiber input would allow the TV remote to work?....he is asking.

I would hold off on getting a 1080p until all the problems are worked out.

I'm leaning in that direction, myself. The only thing is, I'm not sure i want to wait 4 years for samsung to develop a faster, more efficent graphics processor to eliminate the worst in class lag problems. :rolleyes:

Hi Robert and welcome to the avsForum. Given the fact that you have invested in a 6768, it makes sense to also purchase a universal remote. They are incredible convenient and pretty cheap. A good remote will allow you to control your equipment in any manner that you would like. For reveiews on the most popular models, try www.remotecentral.com. You could also ask what the other Samsung owners are using in this thread ... I'm using a Philips Pronto TSU3000, but that remote is to complicated unless you are a technical person.

It sounds like you are ready for a receiver upgrade. Make sure that any receiver that you buy has the ability to set an AUDIO DELAY for EVERY input (source). This is required to sync up the audio and video so you do not have any lip sync problems. Make sure the receiver can handle at least a 150 ms delay because you will probably be setting in at around 120 ms +/- 20 ms. The reason the TV speakers are delayed is that the audio and video are maintained in sync on the TV and a delay is processed into the TV audio. Generally, you want to either use and external surround system or TV speakers, but not both ... so don't worry about the problem.

If you get all Samsung gear, do you still have to worry about all this....or does it just work together to fix delay and have one remote work everything?

If you get all Samsung gear, do you still have to worry about all this....or does it just work together to fix delay and have one remote work everything?

If you are going to be using an external surround sound system you must make sure that it can adjust the audio delay for every input regardless of which manufacturer (including Samsung) you decide to use. If you are considering the Samsung DVD player, you might want to read my DVD player reveiws in POST #4 of this thread first.

But, to answer your question ... yes, you will still have to worry about audio delay because the Samsung DVD player does not address that issue ... and certainly your cable/sat box won't.

Some time ago I remeber reading that some of the User Menu settings did not "stick" with these 1080p sets (for example, if you changed the brightness setting on the user menu to pass BTB and then left the user menu and came back, the brightness setting that you set would no longer work to pass BTB). Does anyone recall this issue and know whether it still exists or if there is a fix? The reason I'm asking is b/c I'm getting my set calibrated this weekend and would like to pass on as much info as possible to the person doing it.

If you are going to be using an external surround sound system you must make sure that it can adjust the audio delay for every input regardless of which manufacturer (including Samsung) you decide to use. If you are considering the Samsung DVD player, you might want to read my DVD player reveiws in POST #4 of this thread first.

But, to answer your question ... yes, you will still have to worry about audio delay because the Samsung DVD player does not address that issue ... and certainly your cable/sat box won't.

That is very helpful info. Thanks!. I looked over the DVD reviews you did too. A lot of work you put in there there and very very helpful for me to read through. Ive not heard of OPPO before but sounds like a great choice and I would not hesitate to buy based on your review.

I certainly was not aware that I need to adjust audio delay for each input. Which reciever do you use?

This all also means to me a universal remote. I currently use the Sony, 2100 I think, that I have had for many years. My main compliant about it is that you cannot change the icons on the touch screen but I bet nowadays there are models that let you do that. At worse I would have 3 or 4 remotes or 1 for each component, so no big deal there either.

thanks again!

Thanks for the procedure ... I'll try it, how did you figure out the Pronto code? I have pretty much given up hope (after trying all 255 possible Samsung IR codes) of finding a TV input IR code. Have you found one yet? [Note, right now I go to HDMI2 and then issue SOURCE command, works]

Bill - Are you just looking for a way to switch to the TV's internal tuner? If so, I set up a great macro with my pronto (I call it OTA). Anyway, all I do is send the code for the Anynet feature and then send enter (since the first item highlighted is TV). This works great and I think it's a lot better than going to HDMI and then source b/c with that you need to wait for HDMI to hit etc. Let me know what you think.

Three weeks with my new HLR 6178 with:
Great Picture
No Audio Lag (some due to bad source broadcasting)
Great DVD playback
Good Game Cube High Def Action
Still not worried about true 1080P because there is no 1080P material

1 year of great HLP 6163 viewing until the light engine crapped out and was replaced by the new HLR

Watching the Red Sox win a World Series and Patriots win a Super Bowl in High Def:
Priceless.

Some of the non owners bitching about features and saying they'll wait until the next model spent a year bitching in the HLP thead also. We should have two thread, Useful HLR info thread and HLR bitch thread.

Three weeks with my new HLR 6178 with:
Great Picture
No Audio Lag (some due to bad source broadcasting)
Great DVD playback
Good Game Cube High Def Action
Still not worried about true 1080P because there is no 1080P material

1 year of great HLP 6163 viewing until the light engine crapped out and was replaced by the new HLR

Watching the Red Sox win a World Series and Patriots win a Super Bowl in High Def:
Priceless.

Some of the non owners bitching about features and saying they'll wait until the next model spent a year bitching in the HLP thead also. We should have two thread, Useful HLR info thread and HLR bitch thread.

Yea. there is a bit of "wait until next year" syndrome for me too as I suppose that can go on forever as gear will always be better next year. I wish my 4:3 would crap out to make it an easy decision......as it is.....I cleaned the lens and mirror yesterday and it still has a very good and bright picture but with some deconvergence in a bottom corner that is the best that can be done to keep most of the picture decent and some pincushioning too. (Maybe a strategically (and of course accidentally) dropped screwdriver in the power supply might do the trick and end the bitching).

What receiver and DVD gear are you using?

I got my first HD set over 4 years ago. I've been waiting for 1080P for 2.5 years now. If I wait I would be waiting forever. So for now I'll be able to enjoy my 1080P set. I'm looking forward to another visit by Eliab to perform so more tweaks on the set and really push the picture to the stratosphere.

I got my first HD set over 4 years ago. I've been waiting for 1080P for 2.5 years now. If I wait I would be waiting forever. So for now I'll be able to enjoy my 1080P set. I'm looking forward to another visit by Eliab to perform so more tweaks on the set and really push the picture to the stratosphere.

You better see if he can do something about the detail - the 'Resident Evil
WMV-HD clip at 1080P over the VGA input' looks soft to me :-)

So you actually put credence in an article written and sponsored by TI favoring DLP? :rolleyes: I have a bridge to sell you if you think DLP with wobulated half-chips and spinning color wheels is more reliable than ANY other technology :cool:

I'll take that bridge!

From the TI web site (I can't write this well!)

Results from accelerated testing and field experience show that the DMD has met or exceeded customer needs with over 100,000 hour mean hinge memory lifetimes under normal operating conditions.

(If you watch TV eight hours a day, every day, that hinge will last at least 12.5 years.)

Our experience of the mechanical world hasn’t always been a positive one.
But still, we carry with us preconceptions about what should and what should not work - and these preconceptions have given rise to a number of myths. Like many myths, we tend to believe them, because they sound plausible - they accord with what we think we know. The DMD changes the rules about what we think we know.

Each micromirror is hinged, allowing it to rotate on its diagonal axis. Given that each mirror will be switched through twenty-four degrees thousands of times per second, it seems to many people that it must, sooner or later, break. In fact, “hinge fatigue” has never been a problem for the Digital Micromirror Device.

Consider, for example, a bar of aluminum which is repeatedly bent against itself: it will ultimately snap. Few of us have not at some time bent and re-bent a soft drink can until the metal has torn. But how many of us have taken a sheet of aluminum foil and attempted to cause it to break by bending it back and forth?

The important relationship is between the size of the crystals - or ‘grains’ - which comprise the material of the item and the size of the item in question. When a material breaks, it is because of dislocations caused to the crystal structure within it. These dislocations migrate to, and accumulate at, joints between the grains. This has the effect of concentrating mechanical stress until the yield point of the material is exceeded - at which point, breakage occurs.

In something as microscopically small as a DMD hinge, there is, in effect, no internal crystal structure - all crystals are at the surface of the material. What this means is that the stresses caused by crystal dislocations are relieved immediately on the hinge surface - before the hinge’s crystalline structure can be damaged. To demonstrate this concept, sets of devices were tested through 1 trillion cycles, well in excess of the requirement for a ‘normal’ commercial lifetime. No broken hinges were observed.

Park

This all also means to me a universal remote. I currently use the Sony, 2100 I think, that I have had for many years. My main compliant about it is that you cannot change the icons on the touch screen but I bet nowadays there are models that let you do that. At worse I would have 3 or 4 remotes or 1 for each component, so no big deal there either.

thanks again!
I just finished recoding my Sony 2100. While you cannot change the icons you can 'steal' icons from other devices. I was able to do about everything I needed for the TV including favorites and other items that are not part of the TV group.

Perhaps the fiber-optic audio out is controllable from the TV. Unfortunately the manual does not clearly specify how the optical output works. My external amplifier has no optical input so I can't check it out. Before I invest in optically connected equipment, can anyone advise me what to expect?

Must I always use a second remote to conveniently control an external audio system?

--Robert Smith
The TV will not control the volume of the fiber optic audio.

I too would like to find a way to use the TV volume control to adjust the sound on external speakers. I am thinking about putting a face on the front lower panel and using the remote to turn on/off the TV plus using external speakers. I would obviously have to have an IR repeater since I will be covering up the IR input.

The easiest way is to get a universal remote. I have the Harmony remote and with one button press I can turn everything on I need. It's much easier than messing with the Samsung remote. Also get a receiver with 7.1 sound. I've been surround capable since 1991 with Dolby Pro Logic, DD/DTS 5.1 capable since 1997, and 7.1 capable since 2001 and I couldn't imagine going back to listening in stereo or using my TVs speakers.
If you spent that much on a TV it's worth it to spend a little more to get the great sound that comes with HD programming.

Anyway, all I do is send the code for the Anynet feature and then send enter (since the first item highlighted is TV). This works great and I think it's a lot better than going to HDMI and then source b/c with that you need to wait for HDMI to hit etc. Let me know what you think.

I tried this also, but unfortunately Anynet is not available in all modes (e.g. VGA). It sucks that this set has been out for this long and we still don't have a working Antenna input code.

I find this waiting for 1080p input silly since there are no 1080p cameras. Therefore there are no shows or movies. The broadcast industry has already determined the last time I checked, that 1080p is not something anyone is considering. The cable and satellite companies said they don't have the bandwidth for 1080p so even if there were a show or movie you wouldn't get it in 1080p unless it was on HD-DVD. Whether a DVD player is 1080p or the HDTV is I don't see a difference? It sounds like the way SD DVD players were progressive with no TVs to use it? I do think Sammy should have made it possible since without it there is no option. From what I've seen 1080p won't be out for a long time if at all. Yes, it concerned me but I'm happy that the set is progressive.

Well I just got my third 5678 delivered Thursday from TVA, The first one had a lot of problems and was badly damaged in shipping. The second one was damaged and I refused delivery and had it sent back. The third one was delivered in perfect condition. The box was a little scraped up but nothing serious. All of the packing was in perfect condition. I just plugged it in and will have to check everything. I still see the pin cushioning but I don't think it is as bad as the first? I have to connect the PC to be sure.

I find this waiting for 1080p input silly since there are no 1080p cameras.

The Sony HDC-1500 portable camera utilises advanced HD Digital Signal Processing with 14 bit A/D converters. It also incorporates a newly developed CCD imager that creates images in either 1080 60 frame progressive or 1080 60 field interlace frame rates.

Park

I find this waiting for 1080p input silly since there are no 1080p cameras. Therefore there are no shows or movies. The broadcast industry has already determined the last time I checked, that 1080p is not something anyone is considering. The cable and satellite companies said they don't have the bandwidth for 1080p so even if there were a show or movie you wouldn't get it in 1080p unless it was on HD-DVD. Whether a DVD player is 1080p or the HDTV is I don't see a difference? It sounds like the way SD DVD players were progressive with no TVs to use it? I do think Sammy should have made it possible since without it there is no option. From what I've seen 1080p won't be out for a long time if at all. Yes, it concerned me but I'm happy that the set is progressive.

It would be interesting to know what the current state of HDVD and Blueray are as to expected to market. Im guessing even if its next year, it will be 4 or 5 years before players are affordable and media is plentiful.

since the Samsung does accept the VGA input at 1080P, will that be a usable input in the future to use with HDVDs and Blueray machines?


No manufacturer has announced plans to build a 1080p HD DVD player. It would require twice the data rate for little or no gain.

In fact, you can perfectly reconstruct a 1080p 24 fps image from a movie that was recorded as 1080i 60 fps. Your set could then display it as a 1080p image.

It would be best to have 24 fps progressive on the HD DVDs since you gain nothing by recording material at a faster frame rate than originally captured.

Park

I understand double the 1080X1920 resolution will be offered within five years...

Where did you get that information?

I read in a video magazine this month which had an update on HDVD and Blueray. Not sure which one, but one of them was going to provide 1080P the other was not.

I read in a video magazine this month which had an update on HDVD and Blueray. Not sure which one, but one of them was going to provide 1080P the other was not.

It depends on how it is done. You could build a DVD player that would output 1080p from an SD 480i source (NeuNeo HVD 2085). Or take a HD DVD disk that was made using a 1080i 60 recording and have that machine make 1080p 24 out of it to send to a TV set that will make 1080p 60 from that!

The devil is in the details.

No announced format will record 1080p 60 to disk. Outputting 1080p from VHS can be done but I don't know who would want to do it!

Park

... I will be building a new dedicated PC that will be better suited, i.e., black, horizontal desktop case, wireless keyboard/remote, more hard drive space, whisper quiet components, etc. ...

All things considered, this looks like a solution to many issues discussed here. I hope you post your HTPC component choices so I can "copycat" and hold on to my "laziest-in-the-world" title.

Well so much for that, they had the TV apart then realized they had the wrong digital board for this TV...great....So now its 3-4 days to get in the new part and THEN they'll reschedule an appointment here, probably 3-4 days after that...grr.

When I asked why they had received the wrong digital board he said that sometimes units of the same model (HLR5668W) might use different components inside the TV, like this digital board or even light engine! Can that be true?!?

They called yesterday and said the digital board was "out of stock" with no ETA on it...so I am stuck with the blue tearing overlay for with no end in sight.... DANG!

All things considered, this looks like a solution to many issues discussed here. I hope you post your HTPC component choices so I can "copycat" and hold on to my "laziest-in-the-world" title.

I just finished building one. Started with Gygibyte nForce Ultra4 MB. AMD 64 3500 1gig Ram, Aeolus 6600 256 graphics card, 250 gig SATAII HD, Plextor SATA DVD. Sliverstone 3c0B case. Works great. If you want more specifics PM me.

There's a lot of detailed information about the sources of video delay which cause lip-sync error and the audio delay needed to correct it on the web.

A Yahoo search for "lip sync error" will produce a lot of information on this subject (somewhat less on Google which seems to have fouled up its search algorithms) and you will see that it is definitely "not" just a Samsung problem.

The first natural listing on Yahoo (second page on Google) is a website dedicated to fixing lip-sync problems and has a "Technical Details" page with several excellent articles on lip-sync problems. There's even a link to research done at Stanford which documents that even "imperceptible" lip-sync error causes our brains to find the material "distrustful" or "less persuasive" which means a viewers enjoyment may be impacted even when unaware there is a lip sync problem. You do have to "believe" the characters in a movie to really enjoy it, right?

The net of all this is that generally the video is already delayed by more than theses displays (like the Samsungs and other DLP, LCD, and Plasma displays) add but unfortunately video delays are cumulative and they add enough to make it noticeable and therefore get blamed for the problem.

Ironically a "feature" Samsung added that most of these manufacturers do not have has confused the issue greatly: the fact that Samsung delays the audio going to its internal speakers to compensate for the delay their video processing and display latency adds corrects the problem (when using their internal speakers) which makes it appear that something is "wrong" when the audio bypasses their delay and goes directly to the av receiver to be decoded into surround sound.

The reason the digital audio signal passed through the Samsung is just stereo PCM and not the Dolby Digital or DTS compressed format most enthusiasts want is that the source supplying the audio had to be told to send stereo PCM to the Samsung and not a compressed signal requiring decoding so that it could drive the internal stereo speakers. It is commendable but nevertheless surprising that Samsung went to that expense considering how few customers of HD displays will settle for internal speakers (or non-surround played through their surround sound capable audio system)

(Disclosure: I have no connection to Samsung but I do market both industrial and consumer products for lip-sync correction.)

Finally got my 6768!
I ordered it from Tweeter over a month ago. In the meantime they loaned me a 6178. The 6178 was fantastic out of the box with no problems. The 6768 finally arrived a couple of days ago and again, I am happy to report no problems. My only complaint is that the blacks are very saturated and I think I will need an ISF calibration. Or is there a simpler way to solve this?
The 61" was ok for my room and for a while I considered changing my 6768 order for the 61. But, after I set up the 67, I was really glad I went with the bigger screen. You can definitely tell the difference. Great choice for me! I've attached some pics of the whole set up.
The Stand is a Belo AVS-2601 and was perfect fit for all my gear including the Polk center channel and Media Center Computer.

There's a lot of detailed information about the sources of video delay which cause lip-sync error and the audio delay needed to correct it on the web.

A Yahoo search for "lip sync error" will produce a lot of information on this subject (somewhat less on Google which seems to have fouled up its search algorithms) and you will see that it is definitely "not" just a Samsung problem.

The first natural listing on Yahoo (second page on Google) is a website dedicated to fixing lip-sync problems and has a "Technical Details" page with several excellent articles on lip-sync problems. There's even a link to research done at Stanford which documents that even "imperceptible" lip-sync error causes our brains to find the material "distrustful" or "less persuasive" which means a viewers enjoyment may be impacted even when unaware there is a lip sync problem. You do have to "believe" the characters in a movie to really enjoy it, right?

The net of all this is that generally the video is already delayed by more than theses displays (like the Samsungs and other DLP, LCD, and Plasma displays) add but unfortunately video delays are cumulative and they add enough to make it noticeable and therefore get blamed for the problem.

Ironically a "feature" Samsung added that most of these manufacturers do not have has confused the issue greatly: the fact that Samsung delays the audio going to its internal speakers to compensate for the delay their video processing and display latency adds corrects the problem (when using their internal speakers) which makes it appear that something is "wrong" when the audio bypasses their delay and goes directly to the av receiver to be decoded into surround sound.

The reason the digital audio signal passed through the Samsung is just stereo PCM and not the Dolby Digital or DTS compressed format most enthusiasts want is that the source supplying the audio had to be told to send stereo PCM to the Samsung and not a compressed signal requiring decoding so that it could drive the internal stereo speakers. It is commendable but nevertheless surprising that Samsung went to that expense considering how few customers of HD displays will settle for internal speakers (or non-surround played through their surround sound capable audio system)

(Disclosure: I have no connection to Samsung but I do market both industrial and consumer products for lip-sync correction.)

Nexsen. That was excellent input. Thank you

You would need an electronic adapter that goes from VGA to component and not a simple adapter like a HDMI to DVI one. I don't know of any since I think these days the video cards have the component and VGA electronics already included. If your card doesn't have it I'd say it is easier and less expensive to upgrade the card. I got one response and haven't confirmed, that the component out on a video card is most likely video overlay only and not the PC display such as the desktop. In other words if you played a DVD, the video overlay would be full screen from the component connection. He also mentioned that there could be some tweaking involved and that it might be more difficult to get the PC and set to work together. Most of the connections are one way I think component is too, which is why VGA seems to work well.

I enjoy your posts and find them helpful. May I request, however, that you quote at least a small portion of the post to which you are responding. There are well over 100 pages in this thread and posts are not automatically placed directly under each other in order of topic. Thanks.

Interesting that this thread has slowed down as more people have their sets. Must not be many problems or we would have heard. ...

That's one explanation. Another is that there is no need to speculate endlessly once actual evidence becomes widely available.

ALL THIS DNIE CONFUSION!!!
Can't we just call Samsung and ask them?

Fair enough. I also wonder whether the manufacturer has been asked to comment on various video lag issues.

Most likely these new HD DVD players will have a switch either physically on the unit, or via a menu to switch between 1080i and 1080p. That is the way it was when progressive players became available.

The Sony HDC-1500 portable camera utilises advanced HD Digital Signal Processing with 14 bit A/D converters. It also incorporates a newly developed CCD imager that creates images in either 1080 60 frame progressive or 1080 60 field interlace frame rates.

Park
I think he is refering to consumer cameras.

Kerrydeare, sorry but I use the Quick Reply and that doesn't have quotes, besides I don't know how to do that anyway. I try to put the person's name at the beginning so they can see my reply although my posts are for everyone anyway. Usually when my posts are FYI I don't include names. I try to reply right away to the person's post so that it should be right below or very close to the original post. I'll try to be more careful and its good knowing I might have helped you or others here. Thanks.

I'll try to be more careful and its good knowing I might have helped you or others here. Thanks.Each message has a "Quote" button. Try it. :)

Ccouper, I was referring to any camera really. From what I've read and heard 1080p won't be around anytime soon, like I said. I Googled that camera and had trouble getting straight forward info on it. What it looks like to me is an all around HD camera that can shoot all of the HD resolutions and frame rates. The camera I think was supposed to be available in August. I don't know if it is shipping now and it costs $120k each. It sounds like a great camera but just because 1080p is one of the many settings it doesn't mean anyone is using it.

It leads back to the same issue, there is no way to deliver 1080p. Most HDTVs, aren't 1080i let alone 1080p so if they were to produce a show or movie in 1080p, no one will be able to watch it. Yes, I know a set will scale it but you won't get the true picture the way the Sammys do with 1080i.

Ccouper, I was referring to any camera really. From what I've read and heard 1080p won't be around anytime soon, like I said. I Googled that camera and had trouble getting straight forward info on it. What it looks like to me is an all around HD camera that can shoot all of the HD resolutions and frame rates. The camera I think was supposed to be available in August. I don't know if it is shipping now and it costs $120k each. It sounds like a great camera but just because 1080p is one of the many settings it doesn't mean anyone is using it.

It leads back to the same issue, there is no way to deliver 1080p. Most HDTVs, aren't 1080i let alone 1080p so if they were to produce a show or movie in 1080p, no one will be able to watch it. Yes, I know a set will scale it but you won't get the true picture the way the Sammys do with 1080i.

:o Cool, I think I got this to work and I agree with everything bcvp said. :D

Anyone have the Removable Velux/Foamcore-board panels for greatly improved blacks from Eliab(Avical) put in their 1080P Samsung yet?

... The awesome thing about the 1080p Samsung is that it displays the signal as sent to it, the good, the bad, and the ugly. Bad source and source com ponents look bad and great source and source components look
great ....

I may be a bit thick but isn't this pretty much what should happen?

Finally got my 6768!
I ordered it from Tweeter over a month ago. In the meantime they loaned me a 6178.... I am happy to report no problems. My only complaint is that the blacks are very saturated and I think I will need an ISF calibration. Or is there a simpler way to solve this?
The 61" was ok for my room and for a while I considered changing my 6768 order for the 61. But, after I set up the 67, I was really glad I went with the bigger screen. You can definitely tell the difference. Great choice for me! I've attached some pics of the whole set up.


Thanks for the pix! I was on the edge of ordering the 6178, but I'm replacing a 65" CRT RPTV and was hesitating about going down in size. Now I don't feel guilty about getting the 6768. Viewing distance is 11'.

Tweeter is a good place, at least with my store. Never had a problem, even with returns. Going to buy it tomorrow, so this is good timing to see your feedback.

I understand that that bulb replacement is covered under the 1 year factory warranty. Should I get the extended warranty? I thinking that these Samsung models have improved to the point of not needing the extended warranty. In other words, any failures will occur within the 1 year time frame, just like any other product. That really states a lot about the product's quality.

I'm not sure, but I would wait until you get a decent amount of viewing hours on your set to get it calibrated. Maybe there's some break-in time needed.

(FYI- Some owners of the SONY SXRD are reporting a blue screen tint that is difficult to correct. This may be an indication of the classic first year model problems, which happens to just about any product, including Samsung. That's why my choice is with DLP. I'm buying for long-term reliability of what's available now.)

if you go out and get a credit card that offers 2x mfr warranty you will get extended warranty automaticallyif you buy the TV with it. Citi Corp for example.

Ccouper, I was referring to any camera really. From what I've read and heard 1080p won't be around anytime soon, like I said. I Googled that camera and had trouble getting straight forward info on it. What it looks like to me is an all around HD camera that can shoot all of the HD resolutions and frame rates. The camera I think was supposed to be available in August. I don't know if it is shipping now and it costs $120k each. It sounds like a great camera but just because 1080p is one of the many settings it doesn't mean anyone is using it.


That camera is in service. I have used that model twice now for ESPNHD games. The last time was for the baseball playoffs in Houston between the Astros and Braves. That is the game that went 18 innings. The camera was in the 720p mode for that game.

The major reason for the 1080p in that camera was to be able to produce a real progressive image for the 720p crowd and not try to downsample from a standard interlace camera. Cross-converting from 1080i to 720p is not acceptable to the 720p networks/ HD trucks need to switch between 1080i and 720p to please their customers. No one is considering 1080p now but I can't predict the future.

Park

I agree it would be nice to find out what Samsung updated in the firmware releases. Would a call into Samsung Tech support asking this question know what has been updated? Perhaps they might of changed something to improve picture quality. The Service port on the back of the DLP looks like it would accomodate a USB Flash drive. I am running the T_EXCAAUS0_8014, DATE: 2005-07-15 on my HLR-5078W. I know when I had a Mitsubishi DLP, they would Fedex a Firmware update on Compact Flash out to you to updated the firmware and then you returned the Compact Flash to them once you had updated the set.

So it looks like we have the below firmware versions so far on the 1080p's - not sure if the versions are common across the different Samsung 1080p DLP models:

T_EXCAAUS0_8012, DATE: 2005-06-22 - Reported on model(s): 5668, 5678
T_EXCAAUS0_8014, DATE: 2005-07-15 - Reported on model(s): 5078
T_EXCAAUS0_8015, DATE: 2005-07-16 - Reported on model(s): 6168, 5668
T_EXCAAUS0_8019, DATE: 2005-08-19 - Reported on model(s): 6168

Note as reported in an earlier posting, you can find the version of firmware without going into the Service Menu by going into Setup -> Function Help -> Highlight On and press Info button. Version of firmware will be displayed.

Anyone have any newer updates to the above firmware versions?

Videopark, thanks for the clarification. My understanding then, once again is there is no 1080p camera and no rumor of one being announced at NAB in April?

Interesting 1080p/gaming interview with a Samsung marketing guy posted today on a Yahoo site - - especially the part about Samsung's doing away with the need for a color wheel.

check it out here (http://www.gamingillustrated.com/samsunginterview.php)

. . . hope I did the link correctly

Thanks for the pix! I was on the edge of ordering the 6178, but I'm replacing a 65" CRT RPTV and was hesitating about going down in size. Now I don't feel guilty about getting the 6768. Viewing distance is 11'.

Tweeter is a good place, at least with my store. Never had a problem, even with returns. Going to buy it tomorrow, so this is good timing to see your feedback.

I understand that that bulb replacement is covered under the 1 year factory warranty. Should I get the extended warranty? I thinking that these Samsung models have improved to the point of not needing the extended warranty. In other words, any failures will occur within the 1 year time frame, just like any other product. That really states a lot about the product's quality.

I'm not sure, but I would wait until you get a decent amount of viewing hours on your set to get it calibrated. Maybe there's some break-in time needed.

(FYI- Some owners of the SONY SXRD are reporting a blue screen tint that is difficult to correct. This may be an indication of the classic first year model problems, which happens to just about any product, including Samsung. That's why my choice is with DLP. I'm buying for long-term reliability of what's available now.)


I bought the extended warranty from them which includes two bulb replacements.
You might try dealing with them by showing a quote from TVA and see if they meet it. They did for me.
Believe me, at 11 feet you wont regret going with the 67 or consider the 7178. Even after a few days of watching, it seems to have gotten smaller! As you can see from the pics I posted, One easy chair at about 9 feet, another at 14' and a full sofa at 20'. My tread mill is at 25 feet. Its easy to watch and as I jog along.

Well, at some point you have to decide which one to buy as there will always be improved models hitting the market. One thing, I think is unique with the Samsung, is the 1080p vga input. I've heard that Sony's and others have a hard time with computer hook ups. As for quality, I give Samsung high marks in that department. Since I had the 6178 loaner, I now think the 68 series is better looking. The 6178 high gloss frame reflected everything and was a detraction.

As for lip sync problems, It's a fact of life and discussed to death here. A good AVR with delay fixes that, or the Felstron. With computer input playing dvd's there are no sync problems.

SD picture is basically ok. But, it depends on the quality of the feed.
The pincushion problem mentioned here is present in every set. But, is within specs. It's slight but noticable.

What may become a big problem with me is the high contrast saturated blacks. I've tried adjusting the user settings but no improvement. I went into the sm and changed the gamma from 2(video) to 0(film). That didn't effect it so I put it back afraid of messing around in the sm until I learn more about it. Good luck.

Interesting 1080p/gaming interview with a Samsung marketing guy posted today on a Yahoo site - - especially the part about Samsung's doing away with the need for a color wheel.

check it out here (http://www.gamingillustrated.com/samsunginterview.php)

. . . hope I did the link correctly


I believe on the current Samsung DLP's the Game mode is only useful for 480i content. It's not for 720p or 1080i...

I believe on the current Samsung DLP's the Game mode is only useful for 480i content. It's not for 720p or 1080i...


THANKS for this post! Excellent interview. Samsung marketing manager states "Samsung’s 2006 models will incorporate the latest chipset from Silicon Image™ to enable direct 1080p connectivity" which likely means through HDMI and "In 2006 we plan to debut a new DLP light engine that completely eliminates the requirement for a color wheel. Details and a preview of this new technology will be announced at CES and we anticipate shipping at least one new model with this technology in 2006."


so..

1- assuming next year's models will accept 1080P
2- at least "1" of next year's models will not use a color wheel - no RBE

I think I may wait a bit longer for one.. Hopefully this 'new DLP light engine' won't be a disaster..

Hopefully this 'new DLP light engine' won't be a disaster..$$$$$

I'm glad I'm getting a new set this year. In ~ 3-4 years, will be a great time to do it again!

$$$$ is interesting since they aren't going to dump these. I heard these DLPs are selling faster than any other HDTV and that Sammy is making a killing with them. I might have to put my 5678 in the bedroom next year or use it exclusively for a PC monitor. Oh, my.

Interesting 1080p/gaming interview with a Samsung marketing guy posted today on a Yahoo site - - especially the part about Samsung's doing away with the need for a color wheel.

check it out here (http://www.gamingillustrated.com/samsunginterview.php)

. . . hope I did the link correctly

From the article above:

Dan Schinasi: Most users cannot perceive the rainbow effect thanks to the 7200 RPM color wheel. In 2006 we plan to debut a new DLP light engine that completely eliminates the requirement for a color wheel. Details and a preview of this new technology will be announced at CES and we anticipate shipping at least one new model with this technology in 2006.

Looks like a three chip DLP light engine ... or something new ... is on the way. Dan is Samsung's new DLP product manager.

And perhaps one (or two) of us will get a free one out of it ;)

THANKS for this post! Excellent interview. Samsung marketing manager states "Samsung’s 2006 models will incorporate the latest chipset from Silicon Image™ to enable direct 1080p connectivity" which likely means through HDMI and "In 2006 we plan to debut a new DLP light engine that completely eliminates the requirement for a color wheel. Details and a preview of this new technology will be announced at CES and we anticipate shipping at least one new model with this technology in 2006."


so..

1- assuming next year's models will accept 1080P
2- at least "1" of next year's models will not use a color wheel - no RBE

I think I may wait a bit longer for one.. Hopefully this 'new DLP light engine' won't be a disaster..

If you are not in a hurry, CES is in the first week of January and we should get a pretty good idea of what the 2006 models will offer. If you wait until January, then the models that are introduced should be out between April and August.

If you are not in a hurry, CES is in the first week of January and we should get a pretty good idea of what the 2006 models will offer. If you wait until January, then the models that are introduced should be out between April and August.

Or more like Oct/Nov. And then Jan 2007 is not far away--it never ends!

July/August if it's like this year, but yes it never ends, there will always be something better just around the corner.

July/August if it's like this year, but yes it never ends, there will always be something better just around the corner.

The 7178 didn't appear until October.

Ccouper, I was referring to any camera really. From what I've read and heard 1080p won't be around anytime soon, like I said. I Googled that camera and had trouble getting straight forward info on it. What it looks like to me is an all around HD camera that can shoot all of the HD resolutions and frame rates. The camera I think was supposed to be available in August. I don't know if it is shipping now and it costs $120k each. It sounds like a great camera but just because 1080p is one of the many settings it doesn't mean anyone is using it.

It leads back to the same issue, there is no way to deliver 1080p. Most HDTVs, aren't 1080i let alone 1080p so if they were to produce a show or movie in 1080p, no one will be able to watch it. Yes, I know a set will scale it but you won't get the true picture the way the Sammys do with 1080i.
This camera is for TV and light 'film' production companies. Not for the consumer. You will need to wait at least 5 years for that I predict and then it will probably be around $5k.

Comcast told me there would not be any additional charge for the CableCard if I use it on the same TV as my Comcast DVR.

Having my cablecard installed Sunday and comcast rep said that they would charge me a monthly fee for an additional set, even though the DVR and cablecard are on the same TV.

Too bad he doesn't know that Samsung TVs now use a 10,800rpm color wheel. It even says so on their web site and in their brochures. ;)

Yeah ... I noticed that also. Don't be to hard on him, he is new in the position. I personally can't wait to see what Samsung has in store for 2006.

Having my cablecard installed Sunday and comcast rep said that they would charge me a monthly fee for an additional set, even though the DVR and cablecard are on the same TV.

Yes, they told me it was free for my installation initially. Actually, two levels of CSR's said it was free. But, when I went to place my order, I was told it would be $6.95/mo. I went down to my local Comcast office to get a Motorola 6412 III a week or two ago and I was told it would be $5.00. It doesn't matter if it is $5.00 or $6.95 (most likely), the new Motorola 6412 III has improved SD performance to the point where I don't really need to use the internal tuners.

Don't give up ... I have heard various people say there is no lag when you hook up a PC via VGA ... I suspect you just need to have someone help you set up your PC properly ...

I have been studying up and planning for a large screen TV for our new home for about 2 years. Presently I am really trying to get enthused about the 6168 or 6768. These sets have a lot going for them.

I am also an experienced computer user who would not mind putting together a new media-oriented PC solely for one of these sets. I like computers and we have 6 of them on our home network just to prove it. I am convinced that "convergence" is the word and that most source material will be available over the Internet fairly soon. We will soon be watching one screen for all our "stuff."

However the suggestion (is it merely a "suggestion" or is it a requirement?) that I would have to add a rather powerful media computer to either of the Samsungs mentioned above in order to get the TV to provide satisfactory technical performance on all inputs and equipment configurations seems rather outrageous, especially considering the prices being paid for these sets.

Is it time to conclude that Samsung has overextended itself by introducing 1080P displays well before they (and perhaps others) have solved the most basic problems that many many people writing to this thread have encountered. I am not bashing these sets but rather trying to summarize the experience of many writers. I also really want to just go out and buy a set and start enjoying it.

An honest appraisal I what I am looking for.

Let's see if this makes sense to people...

I think this is the Pronto code to access the service menu:

0000 007C 0000 0022 00A9 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0015 0703

However, it needs to be entered after you are in the "Info" screen.

So, here are the steps to turn off DNIe (This is all from memory, I'm not at home at the moment, so hopefully the steps are all correct!!)

1. With TV on, push "Info" button on remote
2. Enter the above Pronto code to access the service menu
3. Arrow down once to select DNIe menu
4. Arrow right once to enter the DNIe menu
5. Arrow up 4 times (I think!) to select DNIe entry (it will say "OFF" but it isn't! You need to toggle it on and then back off for it to be truly off)
6. Arrow right twice to toggle DNIe ON and then OFF
7. Push "Menu" button on remote to exit DNIe selection
8. Push "Menu button on remote again to exit the DNIe screen
9. Enter the above Pronto code to exit the Service Menu screen


That's it. Every time you change Source, or switch the TV off and then back on DNIe will revert to being ON, so you will need to follow the above procedure to turn it OFF again.
:)

How long does it take to train the average wife to do this?

The TI test was pretty compelling showing that 5 of 5 LCD sets degraded to point of unacceptability while 3 of 3 DLP sets did not change. Sounds pretty compelling to go with DLP. Thanks for the article.

The tests were performed on projectors. Is it clear that the results can be extrapolated directly to substantially different platforms?

hey guys, do u need a special vga cable to connect the samsung dlp with your pc? or just a regular svga vga cable?

ps: im using a dvi to hdmi cable with pc..but i get 1080i of course :P


thanks!

hey guys, do u need a special vga cable to connect the samsung dlp with your pc? or just a regular svga vga cable?

ps: im using a dvi to hdmi cable with pc..but i get 1080i of course :P


thanks!


Just a regular VGA cable. Get a cheap one as the expensive ones tend to leave out the wires that allow the computer/tv to communicate timing information.

thanks man :)

Just a regular VGA cable. Get a cheap one as the expensive ones tend to leave out the wires that allow the computer/tv to communicate timing information.
Noob: You have been the first one to explain the difference. So its the number of connections supported thats the trick. Do all pins need to be connected then?

I need someone with a default system to check a couple of parameters in the SM for me. They are in the DNIe subgroup.

'SLR' Off or On?
'FPGA Select' HD3 or HD4
'DNIe' Off or On (I think this one always shows Off and resets itself when you re-enter the SM?)

if you go out and get a credit card that offers 2x mfr warranty you will get extended warranty automaticallyif you buy the TV with it. Citi Corp for example.

rkruz: Thanks for the reminder!!! I totally forgot about that. American Express offers the Buyer's Assurance plan which does the 2x mfr warranty. Just ordered the 6778 using the AMEX card at my local Tweeter. Didn't spring for the extended warranty. On backorder from Tweeter, about 3 weeks or so, but that's OK since my stand will also be arriving at that time.

This Tweeter now has the SONY 60" SXRD on display next to 720p and 1080p Samsung models, and SONY 3-LCD Grand Wegas. HD feed from DirecTV. Nice comparison.

IMHO, I liked the Samsung better because the SXRD seemed to have overly saturated colors and the picture looked too soft. For example, people's faces seemed to be smeared compared to the Samsungs (clay face?). My preferences are for accurate colors and sharp transitions. The black levels on all sets was excellent. I'm sure these sets were not setup as well as they could have been, but it was interesting to see them side-by-side. BTW, the 720p Samsung (5067W) had a really nice picture and was no slouch either.

Kerrydeare, Sammy it seems is the first and only to offer 1080p resolution from your PC without any scaling or anything. If your computer is capable of outputting that, which like you said, few are, then you could still connect a PC but you won't be able to appreciate the PQ. You also will be missing out on playing WMV-HD from your computer. There is a lot of content already available. Considering the sales of these DLPs I'd expect even more, at least until HD-DVD is available. I don't think there will be too many HD-DVD player sales at first since they are expected to sell for $1k. Here is the PC requirements and at the bottom is a link that will test your computer.
http://www.wmvhd.com/

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=597129

Ccouper, any inexpensive VGA cable will work that has pins on both ends. Monitor extension cables only have pins on one end. I have a 15' cable from Staples that cost around $30 or $2 per foot. Some are $100 or about $10 per foot. Use only one VGA cable and not an extension.

I have a new HLR and a Pioneer Elite DV-59AVi DVD player. I am trying to hook the DVD to the TV via an HDMI connector. When I switch to the Samsung HDMI input, all I get is a flashing green screen. I switch over to a video input I also have on the DVD to the TV and attempt to set the HDMI settings on the DVD but they are greyed out. The DVD's HDMI lamp flashes along with the green screen on the TV. I know the cable is fine as I hooked a Sony HD-200 HDTV receiver through the same cable and it works fine.

I have the same type of problem trying to connect my HD 10-250 DirecTV DVR. In that case, the setup menu for DirecTV shows up but there's a green screen flash every few seconds.

I see some people on the forum have the Elite/Samsung combination and wondered if there's something I am missing.

Level 2 tech at Samsung seemed to thing the TV has a problem and needs servicing - it's only a few weeks old.

Thanks in advance for any insight.

I have a 59avi that I've just recently gotten, hooked up via HDMI to a Sammy 6163 (waiting for my 73" Mits to arrive), and everything works fine.

So everything "just worked". No settings on the DVD player to "enable" HDMI? I was told the HDMI settings needed to be set in the Options menu first, did you do that? Problem I have is that menu is greyed out.

Thanks for the response.

Rick

Hello all,
I need some advice on a stand I am building for my yet to be ordered Hl-r5078w. I am going to be sitting about 12 feet max from the set. I would like the stand to be as close to 2 feet tall as possible. Thanks in advance.

So everything "just worked". No settings on the DVD player to "enable" HDMI? I was told the HDMI settings needed to be set in the Options menu first, did you do that? Problem I have is that menu is greyed out.

Thanks for the response.

Rick

Yes, of course, one does have to choose the approrpriate options in the 59avi; for this I found the 'Pioneer 59avi Owners' thread (or some title similar to this) to be INVALUABLE. I set mine to output 1080i via HDMI, black level IRE = 7.5, Pure Cinema = AUTO2, and default to everything else (as is recommended in this thread; look especially for the posts of Bob Pariseau--very clear and detailed!)

Sorry I forgot to ask what you think the maximum height I could make my stand without sacraficing pic quality?

[QUOTE=GeekGirl]rkruz: Thanks for the reminder!!! I totally forgot about that. American Express offers the Buyer's Assurance plan which does the 2x mfr warranty. Just ordered the 6778 using the AMEX card at my local Tweeter. Didn't spring for the extended warranty. On backorder from Tweeter, about 3 weeks or so, but that's OK since my stand will also be arriving at that time.

This Tweeter now has the SONY 60" SXRD on display next to 720p and 1080p Samsung models, and SONY 3-LCD Grand Wegas. HD feed from DirecTV. Nice comparison.

IMHO, I liked the Samsung better because the SXRD seemed to have overly saturated colors and the picture looked too soft. For example, people's faces seemed to be smeared compared to the Samsungs (clay face?). My preferences are for accurate colors and sharp transitions. The black levels on all sets was excellent. I'm sure these sets were not setup as well as they could have been, but it was interesting to see them side-by-side. BTW, the 720p Samsung (5067W) had a really nice picture and was no slouch either.[/QUOTE

I started with the SXRD as my line in the sand and I have the same preferrences as you. Sony only makes 60" now and its the same price as the 67" Samsung (and I need at least 67" to work for me). I saw the 6768 in the store (Frys) and thought it had a nice picture too. I thought I might wait for next year, but now re-evaluating that since sounds like 1080P60hz wont have much source material for several years. Id like to hear your impressions of the TV if you could email or IM id appreciate it.

thanks again

Millerwill, I don't think 7.5 IRE is correct? Digital to digital is 0 and digital to analog is 7.5. HDMI is digital and composite is analog.

Mgreen200, make sure the cost of the stand you are building is under $300 if price is a factor since Tweeter has a nice one that fits the 5078 perfectly. It is made with metal and glass. The other thing is 12' away is too far for a 50". I think most stands are under 24", you should find one you like and get the measurements. I think 17"-22" was the recommended height, I forget but certainly not higher than 24", probably less.

The thread millerwill is recomending is in the Home Theater Computers forum.

Home Theater Computers (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=30&f=26)

No, it is in the 'DVD Players' forum.

Millerwill, I don't think 7.5 IRE is correct? Digital to digital is 0 and digital to analog is 7.5. HDMI is digital and composite is analog.

In the 'Pio 59avi Owners' thread in the DVD Players forum, I've seen several comments (one I remember by UMD_Terp) that one does not pass BTB with IRE set to 0. Others persons have said that it doesn't matter at all once one calibrates Black Level correctly with DVE (or AVIA). I'm no pro, but I took UMD_Terp's word and used IRE =7.5 and calibrated the Black Level appropriately. I pass BTB and WTW.

In the 'Pio 59avi Owners' thread in the DVD Players forum, I've seen several comments (one I remember by UMD_Terp) that one does not pass BTB with IRE set to 0. Others persons have said that it doesn't matter at all once one calibrates Black Level correctly with DVE (or AVIA). I'm no pro, but I took UMD_Terp's word and used IRE =7.5 and calibrated the Black Level appropriately. I pass BTB and WTW.

My 59 AVI did not pass BTB with IRE=0. It *does* pass BTB with IRE = 7.5

No, it is in the 'DVD Players' forum.Sorry about that. I don't know what I was thinking. :o

I deleted the darn message.

Let's see if this makes sense to people...

I think this is the Pronto code to access the service menu:

0000 007C 0000 0022 00A9 00AB 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 003F 0016 0015 0016 0015 0016 0014 0016 003F 0016 003F 0015 0703

However, it needs to be entered after you are in the "Info" screen.

So, here are the steps to turn off DNIe (This is all from memory, I'm not at home at the moment, so hopefully the steps are all correct!!)

1. With TV on, push "Info" button on remote
2. Enter the above Pronto code to access the service menu
3. Arrow down once to select DNIe menu
4. Arrow right once to enter the DNIe menu
5. Arrow up 4 times (I think!) to select DNIe entry (it will say "OFF" but it isn't! You need to toggle it on and then back off for it to be truly off)
6. Arrow right twice to toggle DNIe ON and then OFF
7. Push "Menu" button on remote to exit DNIe selection
8. Push "Menu button on remote again to exit the DNIe screen
9. Enter the above Pronto code to exit the Service Menu screen


That's it. Every time you change Source, or switch the TV off and then back on DNIe will revert to being ON, so you will need to follow the above procedure to turn it OFF again.
:)

I have tried this procedure to no avail. What am I doing wrong? Has this worked for anyone else?

Step 2, the pronto code, doesn't register with the TV. The green timer light doesn't flash. I have a HLR5678W.

I have tried this procedure to no avail. What am I doing wrong? Has this worked for anyone else?

Step 2, the pronto code, doesn't register with the TV. The green timer light doesn't flash. I have a HLR5678W.

I tried this to no avail too.What I do see is i copy/paste the code in,click ok.But when i reopen the custom code the last digit 3 is now a C.So instead of last 4 0703 it is now 070C.So what ever that means to switch like that is my question

Mgreen200, make sure the cost of the stand you are building is under $300 if price is a factor since Tweeter has a nice one that fits the 5078 perfectly. It is made with metal and glass. The other thing is 12' away is too far for a 50". I think most stands are under 24", you should find one you like and get the measurements. I think 17"-22" was the recommended height, I forget but certainly not higher than 24", probably less.


I currently have a cabinet that houses my 36" JVC CRT with two bookcases on each side of it, that I built several years ago. I want to build one to match the bookcases again.

Firmware update?

Has anyone updated their firmware using the new connector on the back of the TV? Did the people who had their TV calibrated get a firmware update as part of the process? I want to get my set calibrated, but want to combine it with a firmware update

Yes, they told me it was free for my installation initially. Actually, two levels of CSR's said it was free. But, when I went to place my order, I was told it would be $6.95/mo. I went down to my local Comcast office to get a Motorola 6412 III a week or two ago and I was told it would be $5.00. It doesn't matter if it is $5.00 or $6.95 (most likely), the new Motorola 6412 III has improved SD performance to the point where I don't really need to use the internal tuners.

Here in Chicago, a $ 24 install fee for Cable Card, but no additional monthly when you already have DVR set.
The $ 24 covers tech visit and phoning in Serial #s for authorization of account.

Firmware update?

Has anyone updated their firmware using the new connector on the back of the TV? Did the people who had their TV calibrated get a firmware update as part of the process? I want to get my set calibrated, but want to combine it with a firmware update

From everything that I've heard, Samsung doesn't allow firmware upgrades like that. It would be nice if they changed their policy, but I can see why they wouldn't want people to be upgrading their own firmware since it would open up another can of worms to deal with when something gets messed up. I heard that if you get the light engine replaced that the digital board would have a newer firmware but that is alot to get done just for a newer firmware.